From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #88 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Tuesday, April 9 1996 Volume 4, Number 88 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #87 Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns Macbeth costumes Re: More costume books Edward Hamilton catalog Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns Byzantine decor pendant in chicago institute Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns Picnics Revisited Wearing of Costume Vintage Apparel Fair, California Re: Lady's Gallery magazine Beading Catalog Bead Books Re: Lady's Gallery magazine Spring issue of RAGS Re: Lady's Gallery magazine ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 13:29:42 -0500 From: TalamascaH@aol.com Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #87 Was wondering if anyone knows of anyone reputable who would be interested in a commission making a couple sets of late 18th century men's suits. Would require that the person making the clothes had the appropriate patterns etc. and would want them by the end of the summer '96. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 13:52:03 -0500 (EST) From: Judy Gerjuoy Subject: Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns On Fri, 5 Apr 1996, Kevin Richard-Morrow wrote: > > Is there a a phone number for Edward Hamilton so I may call up and > flex my > VISA card befor it heats up so much it burns a hole in my pocket? Unfortunately no. They keep their costs down by doing mail order only with checks/money orders. No credit cards, no phone in orders. Jaelle/Judy jaelle@access.digex.net If the world were merely seductive, that would be easy. If it were merely challenging, that would be no problem. But I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world, and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day. - E. B. White ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 12:41:59 -0800 (PST) From: Katy Bishop Subject: Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns On Fri, 5 Apr 1996, Kevin Richard-Morrow wrote: > Is there a a phone number for Edward Hamilton so I may call up and > flex my > VISA card befor it heats up so much it burns a hole in my pocket? > > > Kevin Richard-Morrow > > The address for Edward Hamilton is: Edward R. Hamilton Bookseller Falls Village, CT 06031-5000 As far as I know they do not have a phone number, and I don't think they take credit cards. And in the most recent catalogue, dated March 29, 1996, I did not see the Revolution in Fashion book listed. But it may re-appear in a future issue. They did recently add a costume section so one no longer needs to search out the spots where the costume books are hidden. Shipments usually arrive within a week to ten days. I highly recommend this catalogue for books on any subject. Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian vintage@netcom.com Authentic reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Apr 96 14:50 CST From: ROBERT@UIAMVS.WEEG.UIOWA.EDU Subject: Macbeth costumes Perry- My main area of interest is a little earlier and a little south of the setting of Macbeth (specifically Northumbria, 7th-early 10th century). People normally wore linen tunic underneath a wool tunic. The wools were often twills (usually with patterns in the weaving), often with stipes/checks in various colors. Madder red seems to have been particularly popular. (Woad was also used for blue; various yellows and browns would have been easy to come by and so not as probable for a queen. "The colour cauldron" by Su Grierson shows modern Scottish natural dyes. The plant material would have existed during the time of Macbeth, but I don't know which dyes they actually used. You need to be careful to check whether the mordants were known.) Fabrics at this time were not usually heavily fulled. Some of the wool is very fine - I believe it was typically coarser in Scotland (outside of Roman influence), and was coarser in areas of Scandinavian influence. Look for a nice wool twill not a flannel or a very rough wool. The linen was also spun quite fine, so you don't need to look for a coarse "homespun" look. Silk was also available. This was imported from Byzantium. A Queen would certainly have had access to silk. The Anglo-Saxons used silk edging (often purple) on their tunics. "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" by Gale Owen- Crocker may help you. Also of interest might be "Dress in Ireland" by Mairead Dunlevy. These cover the right time period and nearby regions. I don't know of any recent books dealing with early Scottish dress. I hope this helps. ****************************** Wendy Robertson Serials Cataloging University of Iowa (319) 335-5894 wendy-robertson@uiowa.edu ****************************** > Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 08:35:13 -0800 > From: "Perry Lewis" > Subject: Scottish costume? > > Trying to make a dress that could have been worn by Lady Macbeth in > Shakespeare's Macbeth. Setting of play is in Scotland around 1050 > A.D. I need help as to what color would be worn by nobility class or a > queen. Also, need the type of fabric that was available in that time > period--cotton, linen?? Any help would be appreciated. My daughter > (with mom's help) is trying to make such a dress for a senior English > project. I think they have a pattern but are unsure about color and > fabric. We have looked in various costume books but can't find > anything in that time period. > > Perry Lewis > Alma, AR ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 12:56:35 -0800 (PST) From: Katy Bishop Subject: Re: More costume books On Thu, 4 Apr 1996, Marsha Hamilton wrote: > I promised I'd list some book citations on Russian and Empress Elisabeth's > clothes. > The Art of Costume in Russia, 18th to early 20th century: The Hermitage. > > Leningrad: Aurora Art Publishers, 1983. > The 1983 edition is in English, the 1979 edition is in Russian only. > This book is vastly superior to Jacqueline Onassis' "In the Russian > Style." Onassis' covers decorative arts and more than just > costume. I have this book in French and I recently came across a copy in English! in a friend's library, so I have the text in English if anyone needs something translated. It is a wonderful book. The full page color photographs are so helpful (I wish the MET would take note). Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian vintage@netcom.com Authentic reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 17:01:22 -0500 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: Edward Hamilton catalog Revolution in Fashion is listed in the most recent Edw. Hamilton catalog. The problem is that the "Fashion" section contains only a few titles. There are fashion, jewelry, and textile titles listed under collecting and history and everywhere else. Unfortunately, you have to read the whole catalog which is as thick as a newspaper. Sigh. If you have the money, Revolution in Fashion is worth it. It's a beautiful book. Marsha >The address for Edward Hamilton is: > > Edward R. Hamilton > Bookseller > Falls Village, CT 06031-5000 > ........And in the most recent catalogue, dated March 29, >1996, I did not see the Revolution in Fashion book listed. But it >may re-appear in a future issue. They did recently add a costume section >so one no longer needs to search out the spots where the costume books are >hidden. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 16:03:26 -0600 (CST) From: "Phaedra M. Williams" Subject: Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns I have ordered many books from Edward R. Hamilton. It always amazes me how fast they come back. They are very prompt with shipping and have an excellent selection of books. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 18:51:33 -0600 (CST) From: The Espresso Pegasus! Subject: Byzantine decor I have been thinking that I want to set some stones into gatmentry... and I look to old byzantium. (and the Historical costume list) I am curious as to the jewel enrusted parts of the garments... were the gold pieces sewn onto a leather piec and then to the garment?.. or did they just risk the they might lose the piece?... and has anyone seen the useage of domed piecec of metal, curved up to reflect the light?... or was it all pretty much flat? Thanks!, Sarahj ______________________.oO*Oo._______________________ You Can Fret Me, But You Cannot Play Upon Me--Hamlet ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 18:54:59 -0600 (CST) From: The Espresso Pegasus! Subject: pendant in chicago institute when i was In Chicago, I saw a pendant in thier rennaiasince collection, which looked like cloisionne.. and yet wasnt.... It looked more like and intaglio plate (metal scratched with a design) that was then tinted with some enamels, and then put in a 'frame' has anyone seen this?(or examples in literature?)... or does anyone know if my deduction is close?.. or was it just very intricate cloisionne? burning questions all around, Sarahj ______________________.oO*Oo._______________________ You Can Fret Me, But You Cannot Play Upon Me--Hamlet ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 23:46:12 -0600 (CST) From: Robin Findlay Subject: Re: HISTORIC: book, patterns Do you know a costume designer by the name of Charlie Castigano? Best Wishes Robin ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Walter Robin Findlay Phone: 816-271-4452 Associate Professor of Theatre E-mail:findlay@griffon.mwsc.edu Missouri Western State College Fax: 816-232-0978 4525 Downs Drive Voice Mail: 816-387-3117 St. Joseph, Mo. 64507 is that all there is........ peggy lee - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Apr 96 20:15 PST From: iteach@slip.net (Elizabeth Pruyn) Subject: Picnics Revisited Hi there. A friend of mine just returned from London with a booklet from the Museum of London titled, "Picnics" (50 pence). It has lots of pictures and quotes. It says that picnics as we know them are recorded in passages in 1802 and later, though it gives quotes for dining for pleasure outdoors from 1370, Chaucer and 1388/9. If you'd like more information, please feel free to contact me off list. Yours, Elizabeth Elizabeth Pruyn iteach@slip.net Oakland, CA "If I had been around when Rubens was painting, I would have been revered as a fabulous model. Kate Moss? Well, she would have been the paint brush..." - Dawn French ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 20:53:22 -0800 (PST) From: Allan Terry Subject: Wearing of Costume Well, lots of people wanted to buy my spare copy of _The Wearing of Costume_, by Ruth M. Green (ISBN 0-89676-141-X). For those who didn't get to buy that one, it's available from Drama Publishers 260 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10001 The cover price is $17.95; I don't know about shipping. My review of it will appear in _Rags_, a quarterly journal specializing in reviews of books on costume and textiles, edited by R. L. Shep who is an active member of this list. Fran Grimble ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 00:56:04 GMT From: christyg@cwnet.com (Gilbreath, Christine) Subject: Vintage Apparel Fair, California Hi all, I came across an ad in todays Sacramento Bee for a Vintage Apparel Fair in Yuba City next weekend. It says that this is the 6th year. The name of the fair is "Wear & Remembrance". Since it's about an hour and a half drive each way for me, I was wondering if anyone out there knew something about it. Is it worth going to? Here is the info from the ad: *************************************************************************** Wear & Remembrance A Vintage Apparel Fair Sat * April 13 * 10am -5pm and Sun * April 14 * 11am to 4pm Franklin Hall * Yuba City Fairgrounds 442 Franklin Avenue * Yuba City Collectable Clothing * Jewelry * Textiles and Accessories for Ladies & Gentlemen Buy * Learn * Admire Refreshments Available 6th Annual Sponsored by Community Memorial Museum * (916) 741-7141 Mary Aaron Memorial Museum * (916) 743-1004 Admission $4 * $3 with coupon (from paper) ************************************************************************* I'd like to hear anyone's input on this fair. Thanks! Christy Gilbreath christyg@cwnet.com American Museum of Straw Arts ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 08:18:27 -0500 From: TULLYT@aol.com Subject: Re: Lady's Gallery magazine The address for "The Lady's Gallery" is P.O.Box 40443, Bay Village, Ohio 44140. You all will love it! Lots of vintage sources plus great articles on the textile arts and costuming. Invaluable resource. Telephone for faster service is 216-871-4479. It's $23.95 for 6 issues. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 15:37:42 -0700 From: Sharon Bolton Subject: Beading Catalog Today's mail contained the "Bead Warehouse 1996 Beads & Jewelry Supplies" catalog. I am not a jewelry maker or beadworker, so I don't know if this is a particularly good catalog or not. However, I did want to mention some books that *I* thought looked like they might be interesting. There are, of course all your basic instructional types of books. A series of beading books from Japan, all in Japanese, but "the charts are excellent and the advanced beader should enjoy the challenge of creating something new and different." Books range from $21 to $75 and cover bows, hats, ornaments, beaded flowers, beaded animals, beadweaving, evening bags, and jewelry. _20,000 Years of Fashion_, $44.95 _The Art of Fashion Accessories_, $59.95 _Art to Wear_, $95.00 "masterpieces by 62 artists" _Africa Adorned_, $65.00 _One of a Kind, American Art Jewelry Today_, $49.50 LOTS of different beads -- I never realized there were so many kinds! Plus findings and supplies. Their telephone number is 802-658-0013, orders 800-736-0781. If anyone has any of the above mentioned books I'd love to hear about them. Sharon in Phoenix PS. Many thanks to all those who helped me out with Issey's Puzzle Pants! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 10:03:12 -0500 (CDT) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: Bead Books >_Africa Adorned_, $65.00 > >If anyone has any of the above mentioned books I'd love to hear about them. _Africa Adorned_ is a BEAUTIFUL book. It's not the kind of book that teaches how to do the beadwork. It's more of a pictoral overview of beadwork among various African tribes. Lots of large color pictures. The book itself is oversized & probably worth the $65.00 if you are into African cultures or African beadwork. Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 11:04:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Joanne Haug Subject: Re: Lady's Gallery magazine You can contact Lady's Gallery even faster by e-mail from their site at At 08:18 AM 4/6/96 -0500, you wrote: >The address for "The Lady's Gallery" is P.O.Box 40443, Bay Village, Ohio >44140. You all will love it! Lots of vintage sources plus great articles on >the textile arts and costuming. Invaluable resource. Telephone for faster >service is 216-871-4479. It's $23.95 for 6 issues. > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Apr 1996 08:21:47 -0800 From: "R.L. Shep" Subject: Spring issue of RAGS The Spring issue of RAGS is just off the press and the following books have been reviewed: All About Silk/Cotton Altman's Catalogue Beads & Threads Braided Rug Book Brief History Shorts Cinderella's Revenge Collectible Beads Colors Changing Hue Costumes of Skyros Couture Sewing Crochet Dating Quilts Discursive Dress Dress Dressed for the Photographer Easy Sewing Jackets Empty Dress Encyclopedia American Indian Costume Fabric Makes the Quilt 50 Authentic Patterns Guide Historic Costume Impressionist Quilts Lady's Gallery Little Hatmaking Book Man as Art Man's Coat Mariner's Compass Quilt Mud Mirror Thread Papercuts & Plenty Passion for Fashion Poems of Color Prehistoric Textiles Riggisberger Berichte Sew Hilarious Sex & Suits Spirit Faces Striplate Piecing Tartan Tassels Thai Textiles Time Warps Turkish Embroidery When Art Became Fashion Women's Hats. - ---- puglisher's addresses are given in every case. R.L. Shep ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 08:41:41 -0400 From: TULLYT@aol.com Subject: Re: Lady's Gallery magazine The address for "The Lady's Gallery" is P.O.Box 40443, Bay Village, Ohio 44140. You all will love it! Lots of vintage sources plus great articles on the textile arts and costuming. Invaluable resource. Telephone for faster service is 216-871-4479. It's $23.95 for 6 issues. ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #88 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!