From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #123 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Monday, May 20 1996 Volume 4, Number 123 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: period pillows-mistake LouisXVI not LouisXIV Re: period pillows-Louis XIV Speaking of boots RE: sabot Re: Speaking of boots Re: Speaking of boots Thanks for the 'Blues' RE:sabot COLOR NAMES: Early & Late Georgian COLOR NAMES: Empire 1780-1820 COLOR NAMES:Cavalier & Restoration RE:period pillows Louis XVI ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 19:52:10 -0400 (EDT) From: Tristan Subject: period pillows-mistake LouisXVI not LouisXIV I just noticed my previous posting and I switched my numerals.. I meant LouisXVI (1754-93) not the blessed Sun King.. Sorry for the error... Tristan ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 20:38:47 -0400 From: Booboopies@aol.com Subject: Re: period pillows-Louis XIV Tristan, Peter Thornton of the Victoria and Albert Museum wrote a marvelous book entitled Authentic Decor: The Domestic Interior 1620-1920. Paperback edition copyright 1993, Weidenfeld & Nicolson. I have no idea how much it costs as I bought it remaindered at Borders Book Store for $15. I think it might be available from the Winterthur Museum Book Store in Wilmington, DE. It covers much information on France and has terrific pictures and engravings. Karen Mullian ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 21:02:35 -0700 (PDT) From: "Alice Morgan" Subject: Speaking of boots Going the other extreme with boots. My SO has been yearning for a pair of real "hobnail" boots. Does anyone know of a source for "hobnails" or even what they look like? All I can imagine is some metal studded sole, suitable only for outdoor, tear up the trail wearing. Still there is certain mental imagery I have with the them, that I find intriguing. Definitely _not_ dance shoes. How would you describe or go about making a pair of hobnail boots? Any responses appreciated, Alice - -- Alice Morgan Spotted Dog Systems ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 18:02:39 -0600 From: felicity@cyberhighway.net Subject: RE: sabot You wrote > Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 10:44:53 -0400 > From: MsSheep@aol.com > Subject: Re:looking for sabots > > Can anyone suggest a source for sabots? We like to wear these at reinactments > esp in wet conditions. My ususal source has dried up and I need several new > adult size pairs. I can be reached at mssheep@aol.com. Thanks Dianne > I noticed that Amazon has sabot in their general catalogue. Write 2218 East 11th St, Davenport Iowa 52803-3760 or call 1 800 798 7979 (fax: 1 319 322 4003) Also, I've an ancient (15+ years old?) entry in my address book; I always intended to replace the klompen I got in the Netherlands in '72 which that da** dog next door carried off in the mid-70s. The ancient address: Wooden Shoe Factory, Box 210, Holland Mich 49423. I'd be grateful if anyone in the Holland, Michigan area could confirm whether they're in business anymore. Also -- still wondering (in case someone in the know missed the first post..and if not, begging your pardon for the duplication)...when were klompen first commonly used? Would it be incorrect to match them with a 15th C outfit? Any peripheral advice accepted & appreciated. - -- """"""""""""""""felicity@cyberhighway.net""""""""""""""" "When I was a young lad twenty or thirty or forty years ago I lived in a small town where they were all after me on account of what I done on Mrs Nugent." _The Butcher Boy_, Patrick McCabe ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 01:40:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Conrad Hodson Subject: Re: Speaking of boots On Sun, 19 May 1996, Alice Morgan wrote: > Does anyone know of a source for "hobnails" or even what they > look like? All I can imagine is some metal studded sole, suitable > only for outdoor, tear up the trail wearing. Your guess is accurate. They do tear up trails, floors, etc. About the only vestige of this technology today that I know of are loggers' caulk boots and spiked athletic shoes. I have a book called "Camp and Trail"--a hiking and outdoor how-to from about 1900, that talks in detail about hobnails. There is nothing special about the _boot_, but the hobnails are driven through the sole from the bottom, until they hit the iron of the shoemaker's last, which turns the points back so they don't puncture the feet. The heads of the nails remain on the sole of the boot, for traction. Nowadays, molded composition soles provide this kind of texture; hobnails were a way of adding it in the days when smooth leather was all there was to build a sole from. The book describes many different sorts of hobnails (different heads) and suggests that some of them were overly fancy and designed to fool the customer into thinking they were getting something really special. Just like boat and athletic shoes today.... > > How would you describe or go about making a pair of hobnail boots? > If you can find the nails, any good cobbler or boot repair shop should be able to install them. They used to be handmade, of course; if all else failed, a blacksmith with nailmaking experience could probably make you up some, but expect to pay for a bunch of finicky work, including the making of a header die. Conrad Hodson ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 09:25:03 -0400 From: Kevin Richard-Morrow Subject: Re: Speaking of boots At 09:02 PM 5/19/96 -0700, you wrote: >Going the other extreme with boots. My SO has been yearning >for a pair of real "hobnail" boots. >Does anyone know of a source for "hobnails" or even what they >look like? All I can imagine is some metal studded sole, suitable >only for outdoor, tear up the trail wearing. Still there is certain >mental imagery I have with the them, that I find intriguing. >Definitely _not_ dance shoes. > >How would you describe or go about making a pair of hobnail boots? > >Any responses appreciated, >Alice > >-- >Alice Morgan Spotted Dog Systems > Hobnails (three different styles!) may be yours by contacting: Roy P. Najecki 1203 Reynolds Road Clepachet, RI 02814 Email - Najecki@aol.com AND TAKE OFF THOSE BOOTS BEFOR COMING IN THE HOUSE!!!! I do have an address, at home not here, for a cordwainer who works in 18th and 19th century styles. I'll post that tomorrow if anyone wants. Kevin Richard-Morrow ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 09:29:45 -0600 From: Catherine Kinsey Subject: Thanks for the 'Blues' Thanks for all the posts on Elizabethan Blues, they have been very helpful. I did not have the Ashelford book yet, looks like I need to breakdwon and buy it :). Cat' ckinsey@kumc.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 9:28:20 -0500 (CDT) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: RE:sabot >Also, I've an ancient (15+ years old?) entry in my address book; I >always intended to replace the klompen I got in the Netherlands in '72 >which that da** dog next door carried off in the mid-70s. >The ancient address: Wooden Shoe Factory, Box 210, Holland Mich 49423. Wooden Shoe Factory 447 US Highway 31 Holland, MI 49423-4236 (616) 396-6513 Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 08:37:18 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES: Early & Late Georgian Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list as long as this header remains intact. No warrenty expressed or implied." (c) Penny E. Ladnier Send updates, corrections, additions and comments to me: s0peladn@erols.com or 3119 Amanda Dr. Richmond, VA 23224 COLOR NAMES THROUGH THE CENTURIES ***EARLY GEORGIAN 1710-1760*** The following color names are in need of more research concerning actual dates and usage. ROSES, CARNATION, LAVENDER, MAIZE, PRIMROSE, CRIMSON, and BURGANDY. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "HISTORIC COSTUME FOR THE STAGE" ***LATE GEORGIAN 1760-1780*** MASSEREEN BLUE: 1766, Usage- gown, color appears to be a dark purple. POMPADOUR: 1760, Usage- for a riding coat, colors appears to be a red-violet. SCARLET: 1759, Usage- gown, color appears to be a bright orange. LAYLOCK, LILACK, or LILAC: 1767, Usage- negligee', color appears as a lilac of todays use. DEVONSHIRE BROWN: 1777, in need of more research. GARNET: 1762, Usage- nightgown, color appears to be a dark pink verging on magenta. GREEN: 1749, Usage- camblet coat, color appears to be a an olive green. BLUE: 1746, Usage- coat, color appears as a baby blue of todays use. YELLOW: 1752, Usage- suit of cloaths, color appears to be a bright yellow. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "A LADY OF FASHION, BARBARA JOHNSON'S ALBUM OF STYLES AND FABRICS" ***note*** This book is a must see. This woman documented with fabric swatches and fashion cards, all the garments she purchased during this time. $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:32:53 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES: Empire 1780-1820 "Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list as long as this header remains intact. No warrenty expressed or implied." (c) Penny E. Ladnier Send updates, corrections, additions and comments to me: s0peladn@erols.com or 3119 Amanda Dr. Richmond, VA 23224 COLOR NAMES THROUGH THE CENTURIES ***EMPIRE PERIOD 1780-1820*** The following is a glossary of obsolete colour names according to the British Colour Council. The obsolete names are in CAPITAL LETTERS, followed by the date of deletion, the name it was changed to, and finally the new color number issued. NACCARAT: 1800, Tangerine, #55. AURORA: 1809, Chilli, #98. EGYPTIAN BROWN: 1809, Mace, #73. SPRING: 1810, Cossack Green, #102. MORONE: 1811, Peony Red, #37. RUSSIAN FLAME: 1811, Pale Mastic, #167. POMANA: 1811, Sea Green, #102. CLARENCE: 1811, Saxe (blue), #45. PRINCESS ELIZABETH LILAC: 1812, Alice Blue, #43. DEVONSHIRE BROWN: 1812, Mastic, #167. MARIE LOUISE: 1812, Calamine (blue). MEXICAN: 1817, Stell Blue, #44. BARBEL: 1818, Pompadour, 194. ALL OF THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "ENGLISH WOMEN'S CLOTHING IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY" PITCH-COLOUR: 1785, Usage: Blackish green used on a habit. ALL OF THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "QUOTATIONS FROM CONTEMPORARY SOURCES", p. 125. $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 07:55:37 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES:Cavalier & Restoration "Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list as long as this header remains intact. No warrenty expressed or implied." (c) Penny E. Ladnier Send updates, corrections, additions and comments to me: Email: s0peladn@erols.com Snail mail: 3119 Amanda Dr. Richmond, VA 23224 COLOR NAMES THROUGH THE CENTURIES CAVALIER PERIOD 1620-1660 Glossary of color names used during this period, all are in need of more research for dates and usage. BURGANDY, SAPPHIRE, CREAM, SKY BLUE, ALMOND-GREEN, TAN, ROSE, SCARLET, RUST-RED, LEATHER-COLORED, DEEP WINE-COLOR, MAROON, BOTTLE-GREEN, PEARL GRAY, AND GRAY BLUE. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "HISTORIC COSTUME FOR THE STAGE" PALE CARNATION: May 1628, Usage- Silk fabric and satin ribbon for bodice with ballon slashed sleeves, ordered by Claude de Lorraine. PALE CRIMSON: July 1628, Usage- for a Robe de chambre of flowered Geneo damask. The garment was lined in the same color. This garment was ordered by Claude de Lorraine. CRIMSON: Feb. 1629, Usage- for a bodice with balloon slashed sleeves and petticoat for Duchess Nicole. BEIGE: Feb. 1629, Usage- for a lining in taffeta ordered for the Duchess Nicole. GREEN: March 1629, Usage- for a cloak and safeguard in Segovia serge, lining of Florence scarelet, and ribbons ties. These garments were ordered for Claude de Lorraine. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "QUOTATIONS FROM CONTEMPORARY SOURCES" p. 57. ***RESTORATION PERIOD 1660-1710*** COLOUR DE ROY: Bright tawney colour wore by King Charles II. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "COSTUME IN DRAMA OF SHAKESPEAR AND HIS CONTEMPARIES" BLACK: 1680, Usage- for a serge gown. White: 1680, Usage- for a silk petticoat. PINK: 1680, Usage- for a mantua's lining. YELLOW: 1680, Usage- for a silk petticoat. GREY: 1682, Usage- for a silk mantua and petticoat. LIVER-COLOUR: 1682, Usage- for a mantua and petticoat. FLESH-COLOUR: 1682, Usage- on the previous mentioned garments. LEAD-COLOUR: 1682, Usage- for a quilted petticoat. MUSK-COLOUR: 1682, Usage- for a petticoat. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "QUOTATIONS FROM CONTEMPARARY SOURCES- J.P. MALCOLM, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF LONDON", p.111-12. $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 9:41:10 -0500 (CDT) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: RE:period pillows Louis XVI >Peter Thornton of the Victoria and Albert Museum wrote a marvelous book >entitled Authentic Decor: The Domestic Interior 1620-1920. Paperback edition >copyright 1993, Weidenfeld & Nicolson. I have no idea how much it costs as I >bought it remaindered at Borders Book Store for $15. It is still in print from Avenal: Random House Value Publishing Inc. Price is $39.99. ($15 was a good bargain!) Hardback is $125. Also, I went through one of our databases here at the library & found some titles that might be helpful on French decorating in the 18th century. _The Private Realm of Marie Antoinette_ by Marie-France Boyer Thames & Hudson, 1996. _French Period Rooms, 1650-1800: Rebuilt in England, France, and the Americas_ by Bruno Pons. Editions Faton, 1995. _The Rococo Interior: Decoration and Social Spaces in Early 18th Century Paris_ by Katie Scott. Yale University Press, 1995. (I know you need late 18th century, but it still might be useful.) _French Interiors: Furniture, Decoration, etc. During the 17th & 18th Centures_ by Thomas Arthur Strange. (Publisher unknown) 1900? _The French Interior in the 18th Century_ by John Whitehead. Dutton Studio Books, 1993. _Le Style Louis XVI: Mobilier et Decoration_ by Seymour de Ricci. Hachette & Cie., 1913. _An Historical Guide to French Interiors, Furniture, Decoration, Woodwork & Allied Art: During the Last Half of the 17th Century, the Whole of the 18th Century, and the Earlier Part of the 19th._ by Thomas Arthur Strange. John Lane Publishers, 1904. HTH! Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #123 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!