From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #124 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Monday, May 20 1996 Volume 4, Number 124 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: RE: sabot Re: New book RE:New book Accessing the archives, semi-regular posting Re: Where might I find...... Re: Hobnails Re: Sidesaddle Habits COLOR NAMES: Romantic 1820-1850 Elizabethan blues ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 9:54:35 -0500 (CDT) From: Deb Subject: RE: sabot >The ancient address: Wooden Shoe Factory, Box 210, Holland Mich 49423. > >I'd be grateful if anyone in the Holland, Michigan area could confirm >whether they're in business anymore. I can't confirm the actual address (but I bet the post office would re-route; the name must be unique!). But members of my group selfishly went to Holland, Mich without me about a year ago, and got themselves new sabots. At least at that point they were very much still in business. It's a big tourism issue for the whole town -- they have a world renowned tulip festival. You know -- I bet you could get some sort of answer to the "used in 15C??" question from the Wooden Shoe Factory. http://www.holland-chamber.org/hcccvb.htm http://www.freeway.net/hcvb/dutch.attractions.html (has address & phone) Deb Baddorf baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:02:46 CDT From: "Cindy Abel" Subject: Re: New book I have just spent my state tax refund(most of it)on a new book. "Dynasties: Tudor and Jacobean Portraiture 1530-1630" published by Rizzoli as an adjunct to the exibition of the same title. For costuming fans of this era, it is a great visual resource. The color reproductions are gorgeous and on some the accompanying descriptions note where costume or background have changed color or faded over the years. Some portraits have reattributions as to the painter's or sitter's identidy as well. Janet Arnold aided the authors in dating some of the portraits via the costumes. There is an especially good reproduction of a portrait of Isabelle de Valois--the mostly pink costume is really lovely. Cindy Abel Health Sciences Library Creighton University 2500 California Plaza Omaha NE 68178-0400 Phone: 402-280-5144 Technology is wonderful only when it works correctly ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:11:41 -0500 (CDT) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: RE:New book > I have just spent my state tax refund(most of it)on a new book. >"Dynasties: Tudor and Jacobean Portraiture 1530-1630" published by >Rizzoli as an adjunct to the exibition of the same title. Thanks for posting this! It's exactly my era & I'll start saving money for it now. :) For those who wish to purchase it, here is the info from _Books in Print_ _Dynasties: Painting in Tudor & Jacobean England 1530-1630_. by Karen Hearn Rizzoli International Publications Inc, 1996 ISBN#:084781940X $60.00 Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 08:33:27 -0700 (PDT) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Accessing the archives, semi-regular posting I've recently started splitting the TOPICS and CONTENTS files into smaller, easier-to-handle pieces. That means you'll need to request more files to get the whole picture, but smaller pieces mean more accurate delivery so I think it's a good compromise. Right now the archives contain CONTENTS1, CONTENTS2, CONTENTS3, TOPICS1, TOPICS2, and TOPICS3. That will grow over the year as we get more digests, but it shouldn't get too unmanageable. If anyone has any complaints or suggestions about the new setup, please feel free to e-mail me and I'll take it all under serious consideration! Archives are available by using e-mail, from the archive server, majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. To get an index of available files, send a message with the words: index h-costume as the body of the message, to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Then use the command: get h-costume filename where "filename" is the actual name of the file, to retrieve the named file. Multiple requests per message are allowed. I suggest starting with the various CONTENTS and TOPICS files (ie. CONTENTS1, CONTENTS2, etc., and TOPICS1, TOPICS2, etc.) Note that they are spelled in all capital letters -- the server is case sensitive. When you get an index of files back, you'll notice that some file names are spelled in all capital letters and some are a mix of lower case letters and numbers. Request them exactly as you see them listed. I.e. if you request "contents" you'll get back an error message, but if you ask for CONTENTS you'll get back that file. The CONTENTS files are lists of all the subjects discussed, split up by volume numbers. The TOPICS file are alphabetical lists of all the subjects discussed, and a notation that tells you in which volume they can be found. So, if you wanted the file called TOPICS1 you'd send: get h-costume TOPICS1 as the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com and the server would send you back that file. - -- Diane Close I'm at lunch all day. :-) If a Canadian Had Said It First (The Globe & Mail): "Cry havoc, and let loose the dogs of a peacekeeping mission!" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 09:03:50 -0800 From: "R.L. Shep" Subject: Re: Where might I find...... John Bannon/Louise Poppema wrote: > > I've been trying to track down a source of information on how a sari > is draped and folded for wearing. DO you have any suggestions - so > far, I've turned up zilch. I sure would appreciate any assistance you > could offer in pointing me on my way. Thanks, Louise. There is a really good book out now on saris: "The SARI: Styles, Patterns, History, Techniques" by Linda Lynton, from Abrams. 100 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10011. $49.95. I have just reviewed it for RAGS and am impressed. Also you might contact Irene Joshi the South Asian Librarian at U. of Washington. She has also reviewed this book favorably for another publication (joshi@u.washington.edu). She may know of a less expensive source for the specific knowledge you want. R.L. Shep ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 16:13:38 +0000 From: Alan Braggins Subject: Re: Hobnails > > Your guess is accurate. They do tear up trails, floors, etc. > [...] > > AND TAKE OFF THOSE BOOTS BEFOR COMING IN THE HOUSE!!!! And don't wear them on any trail subject to serious soil erosion. [Maybe this isn't such a problem in the USA, but some recent developments in walking boots are aimed as much as reducing the impact of the boot as increasing comfort or grip. Nails are even worse than old composition soles.] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 20:00:20 -0500 (CDT) From: dwhite@io.com (dwhite) Subject: Re: Sidesaddle Habits Hi, Here's a copy of a post I sent in some months ago. I inherited my side-saddle; but I have seen many in antique stores. They are still made here in this country and some rather cheap copies from India/Pakistan. I also ride Peruvian Paso's and have a source for Peruvian sidesaddles which do resemble the old plantation style sidesaddles complete with slipper stirrups. Sidesaddles are still made for charra's (Mexican precision riders). There are a number of tack shops in Ciudad Juarez and Nuevo Laredo on the Texas border. The Concho Saddlery in San Angelo, TX has custom-made western sidesaddles based on old photo's ($$$$$). The best source is probably : Sue Breglio Dry Creek Stables 706 Holyoke Road Westfield, MA 01085 I haven't spoken to here in about three years but she used to have a regular salesletter of sidesaddles that she sold. Very nice selection of both pleasure, plantation style, Mayhews, and westerns. Hope she's still in business. Also try writing to Marti Fridle Hundred Oaks, Inc. 428 Wildlife Club Rd Graham, NC 27253 sidesadl@aol.com She is the VP of the World Sidesaddle Federation and also deals in saddles and is a good source of info. Hope this helps, Dana White dwhite@io.com Austin, TX o: H-coustume@lunch.engr.sgi.com >From: dwhite@io.com (dwhite) >Subject: Re: Sidesaddle Habits >Cc: LBowlby@aol.com >Bcc: >X-Attachments: > >Linda, > >I agree that some sort of riding undergarment was used and petticoats kept to a minimum; though not abandoned all together. > >Man and the Horse "An Illustrated History of Equestrian Apparel" by Alexander Mackay-Smith Metropolitan Museum of Art, Simon and Schuster p 60,67-68 has several descriptions of womens riding undergarments (or lack of them a la Elizabeth of Austria who wore only a kid chemise). > >See also "The Art of Side-Saddle" by Rosamund Owen >"The Habit and the Horse" by Mrs. Stirling Clarke was originally published in 1857 and contains much period detail and advice. It was reprinted in a limited edition a few years ago as was "Modern SideSaddle" by Eva Christy originally a 1907 publication. The International Sidesaddle Organization P.O. Box 4076 Mount Holly, NJ 08060 (609)261-1777 is/was a good source of information and the books I've mentioned. > >Heidi Marsh publishes a pattern for Riding Habit trousers for her 1860's riding habit patterns which are a loose trouser which have a fitted cuff; very utilitarian no lace or ruffs. She also publishes a compiliation of articles from period magazines "Godey's", etc. which deal with riding fashion and manners. These are available directly from her or are also in the Raiments or Amazon Drygoods Catalog. > >See also Past Patterns #901 Equestrienne Trousers. These are side buttoning and also fitted at the ankle. These are meant to be used with their 1880-1897 habit pattern. Period Impressions makes a pattern for what it calls an 1860's Light French Corset made without gussets which is supposedly light enough for riding or taking exercise. > >Also, >World SideSaddle Organization >C/O Linda Bowlby >P.O. Box 1104 >Bucyrus, OH 44820 >(419)284-3176 > >California SideSaddle Organization >278 Woodrow Ave >Vallejo, CA 94591 >C/O Crystal Elzer >P.O. Box 66143 >Scotts Valley, Ca 95066 > >Texas Ladies Aside >C/O Sallie Cochran >Rt. 4 Box 55 >Caldwell, TX 77836 >(409) 567-4832 > >SideSaddle Repairman Extrodinaire >Smokey Everhart >Box 1187 >Middleburg, VA 22177 > >I would love to hear of others sidesaddle experiences both riding and >apparel related. > >Hope this helps, > >Dana White >dwhite@io.com >Austin, TX ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 11:36:25 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES: Romantic 1820-1850 "Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list as long as this header remains intact. No warranty expressed or implied." (c) Penny E. Ladnier Send updates, corrections, additions and comments to me: s0peladn@erols.com or 3119 Amanda Dr. Richmond, VA 23224 COLOR NAMES THROUGH THE CENTURIES ***ROMANTIC PERIOD 1820-1850*** The following is a glossary of obsolete colour names according to the British Colour Council. The obsolete names are in CAPITAL LETTERS, followed by the date of deletion, the name or colour it was changed to, and finally the new colour number issued. AZURE, AETHERIAL, CELESTIAL: 1820, Sky Blue, #162. ISABELLA: 1821, Cream, #? ESTERHAZY: 1822, Silver Grey, #153. DUST OF RUINS: 1822, Squirel, #? APOLLO: 1823, a bright gold, #? TERRE D'EGYPTE: 1824, Brick Red, #125. TROCADERO: 1824, between Spectrum Orange and Flame, #? LAVENDER: 1824, between Heliotrope and Parma Viloet, #? JAPANESE ROSE: 1826, Crushed Strawberry, #158. LONDON MUD: 1827, a dull dark brown, #? NAVARINO SMOKE: 1828, a shade lighter than London Smoke, #? MODENA RED: 1828, Fuchsia, #199. CAMELOPARD: 1828, French Beige, #166. TOURTERELLE: 1829, Mushroom, #181. EMINENCE: 1829, Crushed Strawberry, #158. AURORA: 1829, Shell-Pink, #206. PENSEE: 1829, a dark purple, #? MARSHMELLOW: 1829, Crocus (#177) or Old Rose (#167). BIRD OF PARADISE: 1830, Straw, #51. LAVINIA: 1830, Wedgewood, #215. CHINESE: 1830, Malachite (green), #23. AMERICAN: 1830, Mistletoe, #9. ROSE DE PAMASSE: 1830, Cyclamen Pink, #33. LONDON DUST: 1830, French Grey, #188. PUCE: 1830, Amethyst, #28. TERRE DE POLOGNE: 1831, Rust, a deep shade of yellow bordering on brown, #58. INDIAN: 1831, Opaline (green), #201. DE BERRI: 1831, Forget-me-not (blue), #184. AVENTURINE: 1831, Murrey, #135. ADELAIDE: 1831, Steel-Blue, #44. RED LILAC: 1832, Heliotrope, #? AMELLE: 1832, Bunting Azure (blue), #131. ORLEANS BROWN: 1832, Rose Beige, #18. TERRE DE CUBA: 1833, Rose Beige, #18. CORINTH: 1833, Calamine (blue), #167. RAYMOND: 1834, Powder Blue, #193. PALISANDRE: 1835, Purple Brown, #136. DE ROI: 1835, Delphinium, #195. GREY LILAC: 1836, Violet Grey, #41. LONDON SMOKE: 1836, Squirrel, #187. OISEAU: 1837, Chartreuse Yellow, #75. DE FRANCE: 1840, Adonis Blue, #85. PORCELAIN: 1840, Wedgewood, #215. VICTORIA: 1840, Alice Blue, #43. FLY'S WING: 1843, Graphite, #155. EAU DE GRANGES: 1846, Gault G., #18771. ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "ENGLISH WOMEN'S CLOTHING IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY" $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 18:24:28 +0100 From: Maggie Percival Subject: Elizabethan blues In message , Kim Ann Innes writes > but the >predominant Elizabethan period colors for lades appear to be >black, whites, and reds with some gold thrown in. I've noticed this as well. Although I do not have many books on the period in question (as I said before, it's not really my area) most of the pictures of portraits show ladies in these colours. It would be interesting to know if this was a purely Elizabethan trait (and if so, when it came in) or whether the trend had been started in the reigns of one of the preceeding Tudors. Interestingly one book on the subject that I do have (NORRIS, H. Costume and Fashion, Vol. III - The Tudor Period (Book 1) Pub. J.M. Dent and Sons Ltd. 1938) lists some of the gowns of Princess Mary (Henry VIII sister) in 1514 and there are no blue items mentioned there either. Plenty of crimson, gold, black, silver and white, even grey and yellow and some purple but no blue. Green is mentioned, but only as cottes not as robes. - -- Maggie Percival ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #124 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!