From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #125 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Wednesday, May 22 1996 Volume 4, Number 125 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Ideas requested. Re: Ideas requested. Hudson's Bay -- Metis costume Drawstrings Thanks for Arnold Pattern Advice! Re: Saddles Re: Hobnails Re: Hobnails Stanford Savoyards seeks Costume Director Re: Hudson's Bay -- Metis costume Victorian gloves Elizabethan Blues Re: Elizabethan Blues Re: Drawstrings Re: Hobnails Re: Drawstrings Re: Hudson's Bay -- Metis costume mutates to reenactment ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 20:56:58 -0400 From: QLemery@aol.com Subject: Ideas requested. I've been reading this listing for about a month now and have found you all to be wonderfully imaginative and dedicated and full of useful tidbits. So, now I'm going to ask for help. I'm doing costume design for a community theater production this summer and would like to solicit some suggesstions. I need to design a dress for a character in a funeral scene. The character is sexy, dangerous, and in mourning. She has a ballet dance, and I want to excentuate her movements and mourning in the costuming. The only idea that I feel comfortable with at this point is giving her a long shawl/shroud, which can be used throughout the dance. The time is 1700. The place is Scotland. Your suggestions are welcome. Querida ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:14:16 -0400 From: zorro@netdepot.com (David Marcus & Peggy Lamberson) Subject: Re: Ideas requested. In email on Mon, 20 May 1996 20:56:58 -0400, QLemery@aol.com wrote: >I've been reading this listing for about a month now and have found you all >to be wonderfully imaginative and dedicated and full of useful tidbits. So, >now >I'm going to ask for help. > >I'm doing costume design for a community theater production this summer >and would like to solicit some suggesstions. I need to design a dress >for a character in a funeral scene. The character is sexy, dangerous, and in >mourning. She has a ballet dance, and I want to excentuate her movements >and mourning in the costuming. The only idea that I feel comfortable with at >this point is giving her a long shawl/shroud, which can be used throughout >the >dance. > >The time is 1700. >The place is Scotland. >Your suggestions are welcome. > >Querida > Are you doing Brigadoon? Unless the play is a fantasy such as Brigadoon, it makes no sense to have anyone in 1700 or thereabouts doing ballet, anyway, as "ballet" per se did not exist. I assume you have no intention of doing period dance. If the _costuming_ is in period style, however, a shawl would be useful, but it's really going to be up to the actress to do anything which is period and convincing. If you're not worrying about authenticity relative to the period, you can do pretty much anything that's effective. A lighter weight skirt that will cling to her legs and really define the body movement could be useful. Combined with a shawl or long scarf, this could give her something to work with. Also, is there any prop associated with the deceased that she could do something with? (if that would fit the story line) Having had some memorably bad experiences as an audience member and critic of community theatre performances, all I can do is encourage you to learn about the period and keep good taste in mind. :) If it's Brigadoon, however, forget it. You're completely in the realm of fantasy and (virtually) all rules are off. Have fun! Peggy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:16:06 -0700 From: Joan M Jurancich Subject: Hudson's Bay -- Metis costume I am researching the costume of Metis women married to Hudson's Bay employees in the 1830-1840 period. While I have read that they tended to mix Indian and European features in their dress, I have not found any properly detailed descriptions (so what else is new?). Has anyone done research or know of any research on this subject for the Fort Vancouver (WA) area? I am looking to portray a Metis woman for a educational living history program. Any information/informants or hints for finding same will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joan M. Jurancich Sutter's Fort Docent, Sacramento, CA joanj@quiknet.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 00:57:28 -0400 (EDT) From: aleed Subject: Drawstrings Does anyone know when drawstrings first came into use for pants, chemise necklines, cuffs, etc? Thanks, Drea - ------------------------------- We've secretly replaced their dilithium crystals with new folgers crystals. Now let's watch them go to warp. - ------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:23:22 -0700 (MST) From: cwood@primenet.com (Ysabeau) Subject: Thanks for Arnold Pattern Advice! Thanks to everyone who took time out of their busy schedules to help me out with my Arnold pattern. As it turns out, not too surprisingly I expect, I never did get it done. I borrowed a wrapper for the event and was a loose lady! However, the dress is close to completion--I took it too a clever friend who snipped and snapped and trala there was the pattern that I couldn't figure out. So all's well that end's well. By the way, if anyone is ever looking for reproduction military uniforms, I highly recommend O'dea Company. I am not employed by them, or have any personal interest in the company, but they sure have impressed me with the quality of their research and work. Their address is odea@sedona.net. Anyway, thanks again. Until next time... Ysabeau ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 00:40:39 -0700 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen) Subject: Re: Saddles You wrote: >American Civil War cavalry have it soooooooo easy compared to earlier >periods...McClellan saddles...but BOY do they look uncomfortable for the rider. At the Wilderness CW reenactment this weekend I portrayed the Colonel of the 2nd Wisconsin Infantry Regiment, and on Sunday was riding a horse with a McClellan saddle. Being only an occaisional rider, I sure feel more secure with a McClellan, over a Grimsley, Western, or English saddle. I felt very comfortable, and hoped that the horse was a little cooler in the 95+ degree heat. The horse and I both survived. Bill Christen gwjchris@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 08:52:45 -0400 From: aquazoo@dcez.com (Ed Safford & Carol Kocian) Subject: Re: Hobnails Besides the risk of ruining the floor, there is another reason to avoid wearing hobnails indoors. Our Roman group participates in a Bethlehem program at a local church. The church members portray citizens of the town, with craft booths, a temple, etc. We were invited to participate as the local Roman soldiers. The event takes place in the church's community room, with a linoleum floor. As Ed entered the room in the morning to set up, he slipped and fell. Fortunately no one was injured with the weapons that he carried! Ed's solution, used by everyone now, is to put tape over the hobnails of one shoe. This provides enough traction on a slick floor. They leave one sole bare so they can still show off the hobnails when describing their clothing. I learned about the hobnail phenomenon earlier, too. Years ago, I tried walking on a slate floor in tap shoes. I had to have a non-metal shod person to lean on so I wouldn't slip and fall! One trick for walking on slick surfaces in improper shoes - this works on small patches of ice, too - bend your knees. This gives you more "play" and more control than walking in a normal, straight-legged fashion. -Carol *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* This account is shared by Carol Kocian and Ed Safford. Carol can also be e-mailed at ckocian@epe.org Ed can be reached at ecsaffor@ingr.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 10:19:34 -0400 From: Kevin Richard-Morrow Subject: Re: Hobnails At 08:52 AM 5/21/96 -0400, you wrote: > Besides the risk of ruining the floor, there is another reason to >avoid wearing hobnails indoors.....in the church's community room, >with a linoleum floor. As Ed entered the room in the morning to set up, he >slipped and fell. In the 18th century one has the option to wear leather soled footwear that is very slippery on damp ground/wood and somewhat slippery on linoleum/slate/marble or hobbnailed footware which is better on wet ground/wood and worse on l/s/m. The first fellow to suggest hobnail shoes to me was a living history interpeter manning the Philadelphila II gunboat on lake Champlain. He viewed hobnails as mandatory for the wet wood deck of that 18th century boat. As I have spent some time stairing into the sky wondering why I am on my back in the wet grass with a 10 pound musket lying across my chest and a sheathed bayonet poking me in the kidney I can assure you that hobnailed shoes are in my future. Kevin Richard-Morrow ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 08:48:07 -0700 From: Cin Subject: Stanford Savoyards seeks Costume Director South (SF) Bay Area Folk: Stanford Savoyards is looking for a Costume Coordinator/ Costume Director for the Fall production of two 1 hour Gilbert & Sullivan shows. "Trial by Jury" will be set in the 1920 per the Marx Brothers' film. "Zoo" is set in Edwardian England. This is a volunteer production. Many of the chorus and lead singers also work as either costume shop or set shop help. There is an extensive costume collection in Sayoyards' possession. Numerous theater costume collections in the area area willing to lend to us. Why arent I doing it? I was asked to do _both_ costume & choreography. I choose only choreography. (Groucho does a campy tango with the lead soprano... who could resist?) For more info contact: Marc Kenig marc@interserv.com (Directing "Trial") - --cin cin@netuser.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 09:39:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Shea Munroe Subject: Re: Hudson's Bay -- Metis costume You wrote: snip... they tended to mix Indian and European features in their dress Yes - they usually shortened the length of the dress to mid-calf and wore beautiful leggings and moccasins that represented their tribe. I have studied one gown that was a combination of native and European design - long, loose sleeves like a deerhide dress, but more fitted in the bodice. Ribbon and beadwork covered the bodice, lower sleeve and hem. The gown belongs to a volunteer at Fort Nisqually (Tacoma, WA). It was worn by one of her ancestors. I suggest that you contact Fort Nisqually (HBC). They have several volunteers that started out just like you and they are very eager to share information. If your contact at Fort Vancouver doesn't have phone numbers, e-mail me direct and I'll give you a couple. Shea Munroe, Fort Steilacoom Musuem P.S. Fort Steilacoom and the Washington Civil War Association presents a week-end long Memorial Day Re-enactment, May 25,26,27. (1863) Several of Fort Nisqually's folks will be attending. Let me know if you would like more info. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 13:24:27 -0500 From: Jan Rosenthal Subject: Victorian gloves Over the weelend I found a department store ad in an 1897 newspaper which read: Bicycle Gloves 200 pairs Ladies' Dog Skin Bicycle Gauntlets, English kid, tans, assorted sizes. Monday, pair.....59c. Were they really dog skin, or was this another name for some less exotic material? - -- Jan Rosenthal ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 96 15:23:56 EDT From: CS23001@MAINE.maine.edu Subject: Elizabethan Blues Given the recent discussions about the wearing blue as a lady, how discouraging!! I've been saving my nice blue cotton velvet for an elizabethan dress pattern which finally arrived last month. Bought the fabric a couple of years ago and have been saving it until I got better at sewing and understanding how to pull together a costume. And I look _good_ in this dark shade of blue! Oh, to heck with it..I'm still learning.. I'm going to make it anyways! - -- Lisa Tyson the (future) little 5 foot lady in blue ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 16:33:52 -0400 (EDT) From: aleed Subject: Re: Elizabethan Blues > Given the recent discussions about the wearing blue as a lady, > how discouraging!! I've been saving my nice blue cotton velvet for > an elizabethan dress pattern which finally arrived last month. > Bought the fabric a couple of years ago and have been saving it > until I got better at sewing and understanding how to pull together > a costume. And I look _good_ in this dark shade of blue! > > Oh, to heck with it..I'm still learning.. I'm going to make it anyways! I say, go for it! Put gold trim on it and call yourself a Frenchwoman. Drea ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 17:44:17 -0400 From: Booboopies@aol.com Subject: Re: Drawstrings Don't have an exact date, but I know they were being used in the necklines and sleeves of 18th century shifts. Karen ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 21:11:42 -0400 From: lukelep@neca.com Subject: Re: Hobnails >At 08:52 AM 5/21/96 -0400, you wrote: >> Besides the risk of ruining the floor, there is another reason to >>avoid wearing hobnails indoors.....in the church's community room, >>with a linoleum floor. As Ed entered the room in the morning to set up, he >>slipped and fell. > snip> > The first fellow to suggest hobnail shoes to me was a living history >interpeter manning the Philadelphila II gunboat on lake Champlain. He viewed >hobnails as mandatory for the wet wood deck of that 18th century boat. I'm surprised the powers that be let him traipse around the gunboat in hobnails, I would have tho't it would have cut up the deck too much. > As I have spent some time stairing into the sky wondering why I am on >my back in the wet grass with a 10 pound musket lying across my chest and a >sheathed bayonet poking me in the kidney I can assure you that hobnailed >shoes are in my future. \ Ah, I know the feeling well! However,it usually happens to me, in my hobnailed startups, in the supermarket on the way to the muster, sprawled on my back in the produce dept. Hobnails may be had from the D.B. Gurney Co., Whitman, MA. They sell round-headed, cone-headed and grooved-headed hobnails for $11 lb. (approx 300 nails to the lb), sizes 3/8 - 7/8. Call directory assistance for Whitman (either 508 or 617 area code). Luke ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 18:04:41 -0700 From: Joan M Jurancich Subject: Re: Drawstrings At 12:57 AM 5/21/96 -0400, you wrote: > >Does anyone know when drawstrings first came into use for pants, chemise >necklines, cuffs, etc? > >Thanks, > >Drea > In "The History of Underclothes" by C.Willet & Phyllis Cunnington, the discussion of the medieval period (see pg. 27) describes how early breeches (as overgarments) were tied around the waist with a string or girdle. Braies (the underwear version) were also gathered at the waist with a string girdle. Until the chemise (also called a smock) became very full, there would be no need for drawstrings. I know that in the 16th Century shirt and smock necks and cuffs were often closed with "strings", as they were called; some of the portraits look as though the neck or cuff was actually "gathered up" with the string used to tie it closed, but most of them look as though they are gathered into a narrow band at the collar or cuff. There is a definite drawstring mentioned in the description of a lady's smock c. 1650s (see page 62). Other than the Cunningtons' book and Norma Waugh's "Corsets & Crinolines", I am at a loss for good books with PRIMARY references for underclothing. Can anyone add to the list? Shalom, Joan Jurancich aka Lady Dorothy (Hastings) Devereux [RPFN] joanj@quiknet.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 09:25:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Shea Munroe Subject: Re: Hudson's Bay -- Metis costume mutates to reenactment Fred, you wrote: I would like more info on the Re-ennactment. Can you post it or email me direct? On Wed, 22 May 1996, Shea Munroe wrote: > Folks on the list: I'm posting this response to Fred because this is a > wonderful opportunity to see period dress and hear a nationally known > authority (and nice person!), Juanita Leisch speak on topics we have discussed these last couple of weeks. > <> Presented by the Washington Civil War Association & Historic Fort Steilacoom Museum. Fort Steilacoom Park in Tacoma, WA Memorial Day Weekend, May 25-27 > > Over three hundred Civil War Infantry, Artillery, Cavalry & Civilian reenactors will present living history from 9 am to 6pm all three days. > > Battles are daily at 11 am and 3 pm. Other events include tours of > the 1857 Fort Steilacoom Officer's Quarters; presentations by local > historians; storytelling and hands-on activities for children; and....... > > COSTUMERS TAKE NOTE: Juanita Leisch, author of "An Introduction to Civil War Civilians" and "WHO WORE WHAT: WOMEN'S WEAR, 1861-65" will present > "Age, Economics and Eccentricities" on Sunday at 1:30. Joining us from > Virginia, Ms. Leisch will also be signing her books (old and new) and > narrating the fashion show. (She has assured me that she will bring a few > bonnets from her extensive collection for 19th century clothing). 10:00 am Worship Services on Sunday and Special Memorial Day Service, Monday at 10:00 to honor ALL veterans for service to our country. Hope to see you there, Shea,"Oh no - I'm on duty for 72 hours", Munroe ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #125 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!