From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #127 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Monday, May 27 1996 Volume 4, Number 127 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: Books on underwear history RE: Clocking Question.... Jane Austen Society Vintage dance class in San Francisco Area Clocking Questions . . Hobnails COLOR NAMES: Crinoline 1840-1870 COLOR NAMES: Bustle Period 1870-1890 1870 - 1875 Hats Magazine Antiques COLOR NAMES: Fin de Siecle 1890-1902 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 25 May 96 12:54:20 -0700 (PDT) From: schism@on-ramp.ior.com (Su Chism) Subject: Re: Books on underwear history Hedgehog Handworks carries a good selection of books and supplies on costume, millinary, needlework, etc., including the Cunnington book and Underwear: A History, by Carter. Their catalog entry on this book reads: "From 1500 to the present, this book uncovers what's underneath it all. The emphasis is on the past 150 years and features both men's and women's fashions. Detailed enough for the costume historian it is still a fascinating read for the rest of us." $29.95. Hedgehog Handworks, P.O. Box 45384, Westchester, CA 90045. Phone: 310-670-6040. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 May 96 23:31:09 UT From: "Susan Carter" Subject: RE: Clocking Question.... The only thing I can lay my hands on right now indicates clocks thru the 18c. Embroidery, knit lace and chevening are all mentioned. I'm expecting folks or I'd read more but the book is Socks and Stockings by Jeremy Farrell, Batsford, 1992 ( Costume Accessories Series). Su Carter ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 18:14:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Allan Terry Subject: Jane Austen Society Does anyone on this list have a postal mailing address for the Jane Austen Society in San Francisco or the SF Bay Area? Thanks, Fran Grimble ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 19:01:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Allan Terry Subject: Vintage dance class in San Francisco Area VINTAGE DANCE CLASSES The East Bay Vintage Dance Society schedule for June through August is: June 1: Victorian dance June 8: SPECIAL RENAISSANCE DANCE WORKSHOP. We will teach a late 16th-century Italian cascarda. $8/person; preregistration is not required. June 15: Victorian dance June 22: Victorian dance June 29: Victorian dance NOTE SWITCH TO SUMMER BIWEEKLY SCHEDULE--2nd & 4th Saturdays July 13: Victorian dance July 27: Victorian dance August 10: Victorian dance August 24: Victorian dance The Victorian dances taught will include the waltz a deux temps (which is not the same as the ragtime two-step), variations of the York (a 3/4 dance related to the mazurka), variations of the galop, and the gorlitza (the fanciest Victorian schottische variation). All classes are currently taught by Allan Terry & Frances Grimble. (Stan Isaacs got burned out by the commute, at least for the time being.) All dance variations are researched from original sources, some especially for this class. We do our best to always teach fresh and interesting material, and to teach good styling. All classes are held on Saturday mornings, 10:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at St. Johns Presbyterian Church 2727 College Avenue, Room 203 Berkeley, California The price is $6/person. No partner required. This is a regular series of classes that will continue in upcoming months. For further information, contact Allan Terry at 415/566-6259 or aterry@teknowledge.com. (Clare Burmeister is in the process of moving.) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 23:48:40 -0400 From: BarbMVD@aol.com Subject: Clocking Questions . . Robert Neidlinger asks about clocking on stockings in the 18th century, yes it is correct for this time period. Clock is defined as vertical embroidered or knitted decoration over the ankle bone; said to be because of similarity to a clock pendulum, but origin obscure. Suggest you take a look at "Socks & Stockings" one of The Costume Accessories Series edited by Sr. Aileen Ribeiro , this one is written by Jeremy Farrell. It is well illustrated and deals with color, textile and style changes in chronological order, from 1600 to date. Barbara Delorey Circle of the Rose BarbMVD@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 18:58:10 -0400 From: BarbMVD@aol.com Subject: Hobnails Kudos to Conrad Hobson and Kevin Richard-Morrow! I hoped someone would say what you both did. My query: > Just curious about reenactors using black powder - can hobnails spark > against rock or metal? I followed the hobnail discussion with mild interest, but when the subject turned to wearing hobnails aboard ship, interest turned to concern. Because reenactors deal with open fires & black powder, concern about clothing (natural fibres as opposed to synthetics) and environment is vital. If you have done a battlefield sweep you are aware of the fact that paper cartridges are dropped containing surprising quantities of black powder and the same applies to the decks from the various armament aboard- ship. Freakish accidents and carelessness do occur, I've seen it happen. Here in Massachusetts we've had our share, to the point where it was necessary to implement rules and regs for artillery fire and to license competent operators for firing supervision. Though there are various Schools of the Musket, etc. much learned is overlooked or forgotten as in the heat of battle we find double & triple loading, and in one reenactment powder & ball cartridges on the field. Reenactors today are getting better than ever with serious study of social history and historic costume. Just keep it safe guys! Barbara Delorey MA Cannon Lic. #081 Circle of the Rose BarbMVD@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 00:28:19 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES: Crinoline 1840-1870 "Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list as long as this header remains intact. No warrenty expressed or implied." (c) Penny E. Ladnier Send updates, corrections, additions and comments to me: s0peladn@erols.com or 3119 Amanda Dr. Richmond, VA 23224 COLOR NAMES THROUGH THE CENTURIES ***CRINOLINE PERIOD 1840-1870*** The following is a glossary of obsolete color names according to the British Colour Council. The obsolete names are in CAPITAL LETTERS, followed by the date of deletion, the name it was changed to, and finally the new color number issued. DUST OF PARIS: 1851, Ercu, #63. NAPOLEAN: 1853, Larkspur (blue), #196. CORINTHE: 1854, Light Green, #?. BOSPHORE: 1854, Sea Green, #? ALMA: 1854, Copper-Brown, #? AZOFF: 1857, Between Mistletoe & Almond, #? VIOLET: Prior to analine dyes, Parma Violet, #? ROSANILINE: 1859, The first analine dye, #? MAGENTA: 1859, Nearer Raspberry than today's Magenta, #159. HAVANNAH: 1860, Between Cinnamon (#204) & Olive Green (#205). SOLFERINO: 1860, Fuchsia, #199. EUGENIE: 1860, Pale Cornflower, #217. ORPHELIAN: 1862, Claret, #36. BOIS DE ROSE: 1866, Light Reddish-Brown, #? BLE' TURC: 1866, A very Deep Maize, #? FLORENTINE: 1867, Yellow with a bronze tint, #? BISMARCK: 1867, Nutmeg (brown), #168. MEXICO: 1868, Larkspur (blue), #196. GRENAT: 1868, Burgandy, #40. METTERNICH: 1868, Between Bettle (#24) & Bottle Green (#25). GAS-GREEN: 1868, Dioptase (green), #203. OPHELIA: 1868, A red violet, #? RED-CAROUBIER: 1869, Peony, #37. ALL OF THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "ENGLISH WOMEN'S CLOTHING IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY" ***MORE COLOR NAMES DOCUMENTED IN 1868 IN NEED OF MORE RESEARCH: SULTAN RED, LAVENDAR, CRIMSON, MAROON, PEARL GRAY, MAUVE, CORAL, STRAW, AND ERCU (1869). ALL OF THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "VICTORIAN FASHIONS & COSTUMES FROM HARPER'S BAZAR 1867-1898" ***MORE COLOR NAMES DOCUMENTED IN NEED OF MORE RESEARCH: BISMARCK: Brown EMPRESS: Blue OCHRE: Yellow LILAC: Purple AZURE: Sky blue TURQUOISE: Blue PEACOCK GREEN: Green ALL OF THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "FASHIONING THE BOURGEOISE" $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 01:29:40 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES: Bustle Period 1870-1890 "Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list as long as this header remains intact. No warranty expressed or implied." (c) Penny E. Ladnier Send updates, corrections, additions and comments to me: s0peladn@erols.com or 3119 Amanda Dr. Richmond, VA 23224 COLOR NAMES THROUGH THE CENTURIES ***BUSTLE PERIOD 1870-1890*** The following is a glossary of obsolete colour names according to the British Colour Council. The obsolete names are in CAPITAL LETTERS, followed by the date of deletion, and finally, the name it was changed to. ~~~~This color name has to be one of my favorites~~~~ PRUNE DE MONSIEUR: 1871, Pansy. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ CREMOME: 1872, A faint Reddish Brown. CAMELITE: 1872, A Reddish Plum. CASTOR: 1872, A Brownish Grey. JOSIE: 1872, A light Yellowish-Olive. CENDRE DE ROSE: 1872, Grey with a pink shade. MONTEBELLO: 1872, A Dark Garnet. RESEDA: 1872, A greyer tint than modern reseda. ADRIATIC: 1873, A Bluish Green. MARYLAND: 1873, Nutria. MARRON: 1873, Chestnut. TILLEUL: 1877, Sky Green. MANDARIN: 1877, Bright Green. LUCIFER: 1880, Brick Dust. PALESTINE: 1883, A Pink Mauve. RAMONEUR: 1883, Brazil nut. PRUNE DAMAS: 1883, A Pink Mauve. CONGO: 1883, A rich burnished Copper/Gold. PUNCH: 1884, A shade of Blue/Grey Smoke. OXFORD & CAMBRIDGE MIX: 1885, two shades of Iron Grey. BAGDAD: 1886, A pinkish Brick-Dust. BALTIC: 1887, Identical with Eau de Nil. GOBELIN or GOBLIN: 1887, A shade of Grey-Blue. NIAGARA: 1887, Between Peacock & Turquoise. ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "ENGLISH WOMEN'S CLOTHING IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY" ***Other color names used during this period in need of more research: MAIZE, SLATE, DRAB or BUFF, BRONZE, OLD GOLD, CHESTNUT, LIGHT DRAB, PEARL, CHOCOLATE, FAWN, SALMON, MULBERRY, PEACOCK BLUE, SEAL BROWN, ECRUE, NAVY BLUE, GENSD'ARME, MODE, MYRTLE, PINE, and SAPPHIRE. ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "OUR DEPORTMENT OR THE MANNERS, CONDUCT AND DRESS OF THE MOST REFINE SOCIETY" ***Another color name in need of more reseach: DARK WOOD: 1873 ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "WEDDING FASHIONS 1862-1912" ***The following information are color names used during the Bustle Period but are in need of more research. 1871: LIGHT GREY, APRICOT, and CIEL BLUE. 1872: LIGHT VIOLET, LILAC, REDDISH BRONZE, LAVENDER, SALMON, MAIZE, VERY PALE PEARL GRAY, STEEL BLUE, and BRONZE. 1873: ROSE, MAUVE, LEAF BROWN, CURRANT RED, and PLUM. 1875: STRAWBERRY, CREAM, and PRUNE. 1876: LONDON SMOKE, IVORY, SAPPHIRE BLUE, DARK HAVANNA BROWN, LIGHT HAVANNAH BROWN, PEARL GRAY, DARK CRIMSON, NAVY BLUE, RUSSIAN RED, MYRTLE GREEN, CAROUBIER RED, and GOLDEN BROWN. 1877: YELLOW OCHRE, EGYPTIAN RED, CLARET, GARNET, and AMARANTH. 1881: ISABELLE YELLOW, TURQUOISE BLUE, PALE STRAW, and FUSCIA RED. 1882: ORIENTAL SAPPHIRE BLUE, PALE OLIVE, MAGNOLIA, PARTRIDGE PLUME, BEIGE, FICELLE-COLOR, BRIGHT RED NUIT DE FRANCE, GRAY-BLUE, BRIGHT TURKEY RED, and LIGHT TAN. 1883: OLIVE GREEN, ERCU, TERRA COTTA, COBALT, and VENETIAN. ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "VICTORIAN FASHIONS & COSTUMES FROM HARPER'S BAZAR 1867-1898" $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 22:44:06 -0400 From: SFDey@aol.com Subject: 1870 - 1875 Hats I am looking for straw and felt hats that would have been worn 1870 - 1875. We are doing first person interpertation of life on the Miami & Erie canal, in particular the summer of 1875. If anyone has any suggestions for types and especially sources I would like to hear from you. Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 10:28:23 -0500 (CDT) From: Mary M Spila Subject: Magazine Antiques This month's issue of "The Magazine Antiques" (June 1996), has a wonderful article on English needlework. The article is called "The Needle's Excellency: English Needlework of the Tudor and Stuart Periods in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston", pages 850-861. THe article has wonderful photographs of items including an embroidered bodice, gloves and a small purse/bag. If there is anyone here from the boston area, I would love a picture of the front of the bodice shown. I would love to try to reproduce the pattern, and possibly the embroidery. thanks - M ============================================================================ Mary Spila Lady Marian O'Liam, Clann Kyle TTU P.O. Box 5224 Seneschale, Shire of Ezaret Cookeville, TN 38505 Kingdom of Meridies mms6824@tntech.edu ============================================================================ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 22:09:53 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES: Fin de Siecle 1890-1902 "Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list as long as this header remains intact. No warranty expressed or implied." (c) Penny E. Ladnier Send updates, corrections, additions and comments to me: s0peladn@erols.com or 3119 Amanda Dr. Richmond, VA 23224 COLOR NAMES THROUGH THE CENTURIES ***FIN DE SIECLE 1890-1902*** PERSIAN LILAC: 1891, Used by Worth. ROSE: 1891 MAROON: 1891 COPPER: 1892 MAIZE YELLOW: 1892, Used by Worth. PEARL-GRAY: 1893 RUSSIAN BLUE: 1893 LIGHT CIEL BLUE: 1894, Used by Worth. PIGEON'S THROAT: 1896, Used by Worth. PIGEON'S BREAST: 1896, Used by Rouff. PARMA VIOLET: 1896 MIGNONETTE GREEN: 1897 WOOD COLOR: 1898 ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "VICTORIAN FASHIONS & COSTUMES FROM HARPER'S BAZAR 1867-1898" DEAD WHITE: 1894, Alice Roosevelt suggested this color for a wedding dress. The color is white with a glint of blue in it. SILVER-GRAY: 1902 CREAM: 1902 ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "WEDDING FASHIONS 1862-1912" ***The following is a glossary of obsolete colour names according to the British Colour Council. The obsolete names are in CAPITAL LETTERS, followed by the date of deletion and the name it was changed to. AUBERGINE: 1892, A rich Reddish Brown. FLEXINE: 1892, Reddish Slate. SAMSON: 1893, Grass Green. CLEOPATRA: 1893, Magenta. BOUFFRON: 1893, A shade darker than Eau de Nil. JAQUEMAR: 1898, A rich shade of red. ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "ENGLISH WOMEN'S CLOTHING IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY" $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #127 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!