From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #128 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Tuesday, May 28 1996 Volume 4, Number 128 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: COLOR NAMES: Edwardian, War Years, & Roaring 20's Re: 1870 - 1875 Hats COLOR NAMES: Finale' Folkwear #508 1915 Traveling Suit Re: Hobnails boots RE: Jane Austen Society Jane Austen fabrics GBACG Karl Kohler's "Schaube" or German Scholar's coat Costume Books ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 26 May 1996 23:13:52 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES: Edwardian, War Years, & Roaring 20's "Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list as long as this header remains intact. No warranty expressed or implied." (c) Penny E. Ladnier Send updates, corrections, additions and comments to me: s0peladn@erols.com or 3119 Amanda Dr. Richmond, VA 23224 COLOR NAMES THROUGH THE CENTURIES ***EDWARDIAN PERIOD 1902-1913*** The following color names have been taken from several periodicals from the Edwardian Era. Three repeated symbols follow the date of usage. Refer to the symbols in the documentation which follows. More research is needed on these names. WOOD: 1907~~~ SALMON: 1907~~~ RASPBERRY: 1909^^^ DEER: 1909^^^ SAGE BROWN: 1909^^^ CHINESE BLUE: 1911<<< CORN: 1911<<< HELIOTROPE: 1911??? CERISE: 1911??? MULBERRY: 1911??? CORANATIONBLUE: 1911??? VERT LUMINERE: 1912*** CIEL BLUE: 1912*** KING'S BLUE: 1913>>> PEACOCK BLUE: 1913>>> QUAKER GRAY: 1913>>> NATTIER BLUE: 1913>>> ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: ~~~HARPER'S BAZAR: NOV. 1907 ^^^HARPER'S BAZAR: NOV. 1909 <<>>DRESS AND VANITY FAIR: NOV. 1913 HYDRAGEA: 1908, Usage- Bridesmaid skirt. PLUM: 1910, Usage- Mother of the bride dress. CHALK WHITE: 1910, Usage- Bridesmaid dress. LEATHER-COLORED: 1910, Usage- Elderly woman's dress for a wedding. JAPANESE BLUE: 1912, Usage- Toilette for a civil wedding. GRAY-BLUE: 1912, Usage- Dress for the mother of the bride. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "WEDDING FASHIONS 1862-1912" ***The following color names were found on a thread chart from 1909. More research is needed on these names. COACH TAN, WILLOW, FAIRY GREEN, LIGHT NILE, CANARD, THRUSH, GENDARME, OPERA SCARLETT, CLEOPATRA, ASPARGUS, and LIZARD. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "SILK THREAD CHART OF 1909" ***************************************************************** THE WAR YEARS 1914-1920 ***************************************************************** The following color names have been taken from several periodicals from the Edwardian Era. Three repeated symbols follow the date of usage. Refer to the symbols in the documentation which follows. More research is needed on these names. RASPBERRY: 1914<<< DAHLIA PINK: 1914<<< BUTTER YELLOW: 1914<<< CORNFLOWER BLUE: 1914<<< NATTIER BLUE: 1914*** CORBEAU BLUE: 1914*** MONARCHIAL BLUE: 1914*** PORCELAINE: 1914*** MARINE BLUE: 1914*** TOMATO RED: 1914^^^ NILE GREEN: 1914^^^ GERANIUM PINK: 1914^^^ CHRYSOPRASE GREEN: 1914^^^ CANARY YELLOW: 1914^^^ DAHLIA BLUE: 1914^^^ MAHOGANY RED: 1914^^^ HEATHER GREEN: 1914^^^ ROYAL BLUE: 1914^^^ JADE: 1914^^^ SWEET PEA PINK: 1914^^^ SWEET PEA RED: 1914^^^ SWEET PEA LAVANDER: 1914^^^ KHAKI: 1915>>> SHAMROCK GREEN: 1915>>> HYDRANGEA BLUE: 1915>>> CORN: 1916??? TEXAS BLUE: 1916??? COPENHAGEN BLUE: 1916??? CURRANT: 1916??? SANTIAGO BROWN: 1916??? OXFORD GREY: 1916??? TOBACCO BROWN: 1916??? RUSSIAN GREEN: 1916??? SOLAT BLEU: 1916??? PRIMROSE: 1916??? ALICE BLUE: 1916??? PRUNE: 1916??? PERSIAN BLUE: 1916??? ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: <<>>HARPER'S BAZAR: 1915 ???HARPER'S BAZAR: 1916 The following color names were found in the year, 1915. They are in need of more research. PEACHBLOW PINK, POPPY RED, COFFEE BROWN, and DOVE GRAY. ALL THE PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "STERN'S CATALOGUE OF FRENCH GOWNS" The following color names were found in the year, 1916. They are in need of more research. PEKIN BLUE and COPENHAGEN BLUE. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "MONTGOMERY WARD CATALOG 1919" The following color name was found in the year, 1919. They are in need of more research. BELGIAN BLUE ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "STANDARD MAIL ORDER COMPANY 1919" ***************************************************************** ROARIN' 20'S (1920'S) ***************************************************************** The following color names were found in the year 1928. They are in need of more research. This period is in need of more research. WATERMELON PINK, FLESH PINK, HOLLAND BLUE, ORCHID and COPEN. ALL PREVIOUS INFORMATION IS DOCUMENTED IN: "GOOD HOUSEKEEPING: JUNE 1928" - -- Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 11:54:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Katy Bishop Subject: Re: 1870 - 1875 Hats On Sun, 26 May 1996 SFDey@aol.com wrote: > I am looking for straw and felt hats that would have been worn 1870 - 1875. > We are doing first person interpertation of life on the Miami & Erie canal, > in particular the summer of 1875. If anyone has any suggestions for types > and especially sources I would like to hear from you. > Thanks. > I have a run of the Delineator for most of 1875, if a few xeroxes would be helpful. E-mail at vintage@netcom.com if you are interested. -Katy Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian vintage@netcom.com Authentic reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 00:11:13 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: COLOR NAMES: Finale' Well, I did it! I posted all eighteen color names time periods to the list. They can be accessed in the archives if you missed any of them. They are available separately as part of the normal individual back digests, or you can grab them all together as part of one big 26K FAQ. To do the latter, send the commands: get h-costume FAQ/color_names.faq end to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com and the mailing list server will send you back the 26K file containing all eighteen lists: Middle Ages: 1100-1300 Early Gothic: 1300-1400 Late Gothic: 1400-1459 Transitional: 1460-1499 Renaissance: 1500-1580 Elizabethan: 1580-1620 Cavalier: 1620-1660 Restoration: 1660-1710 Early Georgian: 1710-1760 Late Georgian: 1760-1780 Empire: 1780-1820 Romantic: 1820-1840 Crinoline: 1840-1870 Bustle: 1870-1890 Fin de Siecle: 1890-1902 Edwardian: 1902-1913 War Years: 1914-1920 Roarin' 20's: 1920-1930 I would like to hear your responses and usage of my posts, Color Names Through the Centuries, for it will be an important part of my future research on the subject. A vital part of my paper will be on how the public will use this information. I would like to thank all the people on the costume list who helped me through this paper. You responded quickly to my questions and gave concise information. I will be listing the names of the individuals who summited information to me at the end of this post. I have also enjoyed the discussion surrounding the posted color names. Now, pat yourselves on the back, for without you all I could not of done this... I have had a lot of support this year in studying Costume History from the list. This is how much you helped me. *I finished this paper, Color Names Through the Centuries with an A+, and was asked continue research on the subject for my masters. *I made an A+ (the only one given this year) in Costume History II. *I finished the semester with a 3.6 GPA. It was hard going full time with six kids. Do any of you babysit? *I was awarded the Centennial Scholarship from the Valentine Museum in Costume Research for the Summer Semester. Yes, I finally get to work with the real costumes. *In Fall of 1997, I will be going to William and Mary (cross your fingers), to get a master in Museum Education. I will be focusing my studies on Costume History Research. FINALLY, keep on talking. You don't know how many students like me, are listening in. COLOR NAME HELPERS (ELVES): Luke- for getting me started on the subject. Glenna Jo Christen- Bustle period. Sanni- Edwardian and War Years periods. Jan Rosenthal- Bustle period. Bill Nelson- suggestion of sources. Katy Bishop- Crinoline, Edwardian, War Years and the Roarin' 20's. ***If I left anyone out, please forgive me. Please Email me and let me know. Many, many thanks, Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money, or at least my kids think so. $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 19:11:27 -0400 From: Tudorldy@aol.com Subject: Folkwear #508 1915 Traveling Suit Has any of our learned number actually made this suit? I would like to make it for myself for this coming autumn, and I would like to discuss the pattern and process with someone who has actually completed this project to their own satisfaction. The jacket looks incredibly tricky to do right -- and how does this look when it's on? I've heard a rumor that this pattern was recalled by Folkwear because of something being wrong with the sleeve. Does anyone here know if this is actually true, and if so, how it can be compensated for? Any input will be a big help! Many thanks, Meagn E. Maguire (slightly out of her depth in an unfamiliar period) [TudorLdy@aol.com] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 10:32:00 -0400 From: M2D@aol.com Subject: Re: Hobnails >>> The first fellow to suggest hobnail shoes to me was a living history >>>interpeter manning the Philadelphila II gunboat on lake Champlain. He viewed >>>hobnails as mandatory for the wet wood deck of that 18th century boat. Interesting that this might have been the case here. As an 18th century Naval reenactor (Royal Navy Press Gang-1778) as well as doing CW, our research tends to favor that hobnails were "Ganz Verboten" on board ship as 1) they were slippery and presented a safety hazard on wet decks, and 2) tended to tear up and/or splinter a deck which was intentionally kept meticulously smooth by holystoning every morning. Mind you, the Philadelphia was a Continental ship, and not Royal Navy, so the case noted above as a requirement might well be true, though for the mentioned reasons above, I cast my doubts. Matt (Stuck in three centuries) DiPalma PS-Yes, Hobnails can spark on cobblestones but you have to *REALLY* try to do it, which usually tends to dump you into a less than comfortable heap onto said cobblestones. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 96 09:44:00 CDT From: Mickie Erickson Subject: boots Subject:Miscellaneous info on boots... I just had to add my own two kroner...As late as the Napoleonic period, the style of boots that (mounted) soldiers wore professionally depended on the type of figting they did.. Hussars (and other light skirmishing troops) wore short (mid-calf) boots out of reasonably light-weight leather, because they rode in loose formations and did not need the calf and knee protection that the Heavy or Line cavalry wore, who rode *knee to knee* into the fray, and thus needed to wear tall, heavy (jacked leather, hence jack-boots) foot&leagwear. the classic Hussar boot did have a V-shaped cut at the front (frequently with a shiny tassel and trim)... it looked a lot like the upper of the modern cowboy boots availiable, or the rare leather *Wellington* boot that I was lucky enough to find near my size (12.5 narrow) Because of the advent of wearing heavy leather or fleece chaps, american cowboys wouldn't need the protection of a tall boot. (IMHO) Hope this helps anyone! P.S.:anyone know of an address that I can find a set of patterns for a Hussar Uniform? I've been trying to cut'n'paste from similar (but still different) sources, and would really like to make one from the real thing. (Did the US have any stylish light cavalry units in the war of 1812??) Tom@my wife's workstation... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 10:12:32 -0500 (CDT) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: RE: Jane Austen Society >Does anyone on this list have a postal mailing address for the Jane Austen >Society in San Francisco or the SF Bay Area? Anita Nolan Gillespie 601 Van Ness Ave, #11 San Francisco, Ca 94102 (415) 673-9521 The Jane Austen Society of North America also has an official web page if you have WWW access. (That's where I got the address) It's at: http://alexia.lis.uiuc.edu/~hjerpe/austen.html HTH! Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ Date: 28 May 1996 10:11:32 -0800 From: "Carole Newson-Smith" Subject: Jane Austen fabrics 5/28/96 10:11 AM Jane Austen fabrics For those of you who are interested, I saw a display of Jane Austen fabrics last week in a shop called The Quilting Bee (on Castro Street in Mountain View, CA). If you don't live in the SF Bay area, they have a web presence at www.quiltingbee.com, and they also have a toll-free number 1-888-QUILTER. Carole Newson-Smith ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 10:25:18 -0800 From: "R.L. Shep" Subject: GBACG To all of you who found the Greater Bay Area Costumeers Guild link down on my web site..... the URL changed. I have repaired it now so you can link up to it again. Thanks to those of you who let me know there was trouble. R.L. Shep p.s. I have also added the site for the illustrations for "Zur Geshicte der Costume" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 08:01:16 From: Dawn L Vukson-Van Beek Subject: Karl Kohler's "Schaube" or German Scholar's coat Have anyone attempted the construction of the the Schaube in Kohler? It is the 15th(?) Century German great coat with the sleeves set into large square armholes, and a great fur collar. Kohler's biblio is all in German and French and I need to complete the garment by next week! The coat is said to be fur-lined--Would lining with another fabric be incorrect? I still am "furring" the collar all the way down the front- I just don't want to line the inside. If you have made similar sleeves, is there any special method? I am most concerned with the setting into the armhole. ANY related advice would be welcome! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely. ...broad, wholesome, charitable views... can not be acquired by vegetating in one's little corner of the earth. Mark Twain, _Innocents Abroad_, 1869 Dona Lucia Porzia Sforza di Firenze, modernly known as Dawn Vukson-Van Beek vukso001@tc.umn.edu http://www.tc.umn.edu/nlhome/g080/vukso001/dawn/home.html %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 11:53:52 -0700 (MST) From: cwood@primenet.com Subject: Costume Books Ave: I am contemplating these books and am wondering if anyone has seen them and can give me an opinion of them: The Ladies' Self Instructor 1853 Civil War Ladies--Peterson's Magazine 1861--1864 The Handbook of Practical Cutting of the Centre Point System 1866 by Devere Dress and Cloak Cutter, Hecklinger The Workwoman's Guide by a Lady All these titles came from Amazon Drygoods' catalog, but I'd like to know a bit more about them before I place an order. Any opinions would be gratefully received! Thanks, Ysa ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #128 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!