From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #132 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Tuesday, June 4 1996 Volume 4, Number 132 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: Double-sided blackwork thanks and costuming stores in NYC Re: Gores in a dress... Blackwork Cavalier help Help! corset fitting problems Costume Con 14 Report Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #125 New Costume Website (Victoriana) Civil War Lady Oriental brocade CIVIL WAR LADY Nat'l Conference H-C - RE:Folkwear/Taunton Re: CIVIL WAR LADY Nat'l Conference Cavalier help - hats New Web Page ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 12:44:18 -0700 From: savaskan@electriciti.com (Julie Adams) Subject: Re: Double-sided blackwork Marsha Hamilton wrote: >I apologize for not remembering the source but I have seen a portrait with >a double-sided blackwork partlet collar and the design was different on >both sides which made me think it was either two pieces of cloth sewn >together or one piece folded in half with the design changing at the fold. Yes they often embroidered the facings of the cuff/collars with different patterns. Not all 16th century blackwork is double sided. In recreating some of the patterns, you will find many of them impossible to do double sided. By examining various portrait paintings, I think you will find that collars and cuffs are predominantly not double sided embroidery and some clearly show the facings sewn down at different angles. This makes sense as they need the extra support of a lining, especially for tall collars and for strength in lining cuffs. >Does anyone have examples of double-sided blackwork that is definitely a >single layer of cloth? Ruffs, collar, and cuff ruffles are usually double sided blackwork. Julie Adams ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 16:17:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Tristan Subject: thanks and costuming stores in NYC I would like to thank those of you with suggestions for books on Louis XVI. And the world is lost without the guidance of librarians.. I am heading to New York City in a few days and I was wondering if anyone could recommend any stores specializing in costuming books and the such? Also if anyone knows of any stores that carry corset boning and accessories that would also be helpful? Thanks again for all the help.. all my graces, Tristan ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 13:22:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Heather Rose Jones Subject: Re: Gores in a dress... On Sun, 2 Jun 1996, Rachel E. Mast wrote: > Hi All, > I'm working on a middle ages dress and I'm having problems > figuring out how to sew the tip of the front and rear gores. I'm trying > to mak it reversible (the fabric looks good on either side) by taking the > extra fabric and folding it under itself, but I now have a small hole > where the tip of the gore wont fit right into the space left. I'm afraid > to sew a seam up the front (I don't want the dress to be too smal). It > looks kinda like this....... From the diagram, it looks like the first problem is that you set the gore too low. My personal take on doing this sort of gore is to sew the sides up to within about an inch or so of the point and then finish the point by hand. You might be able to make it reversible by this method, but keep in mind that the cut wasn't _designed_ to be reversible. At this point, I'd say you have the choice between taking the gore out and starting over with it set higher, or running a small "false seam" up from the top of the gore that will bring the edges together to close up the hole. Heather Rose Jones ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 21:07:31 -0400 From: SyRilla@aol.com Subject: Blackwork Oh, hollowed costumer, please take pity on a novice. If anyone could please describe to me any thing about backwork and how it is done, I would be grateful. I know the tech. deffinition. But I would like to do some on my next mid 1500's costume. Thank you in advance. Your humble student, Kimberly SyRilla@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 11:16:13 -0400 From: Morigianna@aol.com Subject: Cavalier help I want to make a new project- male and female cavaliers for my hubby and myself. I am looking for any info on where to get the hats (I already have pat's hats info) also I want to use a celtic type knotwork trim (black background with green and silver knotwork, beTUIFUL). is this anywhere near period? Do you have any suggestions for where to find good pictures or patterns ( I'll check out alter years at Costume colledge) also the boots?....... thanx Morigianna@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:12:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Catherine Leonard Subject: Help! corset fitting problems Greetings! I'm so glad I took that advice and made a test corset out of junk fabric because I found out it doesn't even remotely fit. Yep, it's back to the old drafting board. :-( Where do I begin? I'm making Past Patterns corset #703. My measurments correspond to the size 12, so with a few modifications to fit my real measurements more closely I cut my tester to that size. The bust line's off by about 2", waist off by about 4", and the hips are off by about 4". This is taking a very tight fit into consideration. I've noticed that the pieces are out of alignment on my body; for example the side back piece lines up with the side back on my torso at the bustline, but sits at my side front at the hipline. Very frustrating. I am also very short waisted and have hips that can only be described as shelf-like. I've never draped a pattern in my life, but am thinking that maybe it's time I learned. Any suggestions for approaching this problem? Thanks, Cate Catherine Leonard | lunar23@voicenet.com | cleonard@astro.ocis.temple.edu Mehitabel: 1981 Honda CM400 Custom DoD Conformist (To The Stars!) #1482 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:44:13 -0800 From: emfarrell@earthlink.net (Eleanor Farrell) Subject: Costume Con 14 Report The annual costumers' convention, CostumeCon, was held this year from May 24-27 (Memorial Day weekend) at the SeaTac marriott Hotel in Seattle. Around 400 costumers largely ignored the uncharacteristically sunny weather to join the denizens of Oz at a Friday night reception, attend workshops and panels, enjoy the competitions of the two evening masquerades (Science Fiction/Fantasy on Saturday, Historical on Sunday), shop in the Dealer's Room, and view the exhibits of stunning work by a variety of talented fabric artists. The CC14 committee put together a solid weekend of programming, beginning at 10 am on Friday. A large assortment of limited-attendance workshops, offering instruction in such techniques as making beaded hat pins, Japanese braiding, Princess lace, creting cosmetics from historical recipes, and more, as well as several different ribbonwork classes taught by well-known fiber artist Candace Kling, were well attended and received rave reviews from participants. An innovative and hugely successful program was the Eighteenth Century Focus Salon on Saturday afternoon, during which convention members could attend short lectures and demonstrations on wigs and makeup, interspersed with musical and refreshment interludes as well as opportunities to view the exhibit of reproduction 18th century garments, try a bit of snuff, or indulge in general gossip. On Sunday afternoon, the space was used for a Jazz Era Tea Dance with music provided by a period Victrola, preceded by a ragtime dance workshop and a display of vintage garments. The Emerald City Social was the focus of Friday evening, with the Seattle location providing the inspiration for an Oz theme. Though well-attended by costumers (many of whom haven't seen each other since last year's convention), the Friday night reception doesn't always work as a themed event. This year, however, everyone seemed to be inspired by their memories and images of the Land of Oz, and the costumes were wonderful! The 1939 MGM film version as well as classic book illustrations were both well-represented, with several good-humored confrontations between Good and Bad witches, and many more obscure Baum chracters appeared as well. Both the Science Fiction/Fantasy Masquerade on Saturday evening and the Historical Masquerade on Sunday evening were filled with high-quality costumes and presentations, as well as smooth-running technical support and delightful emcees (author Greg Bear on Saturday and CC14 committee member Payne Fifield on Sunday). It was particularly encouraging to note the large number and wonderful work of many novice costumers in both competitions. Best in Show for the Science Fiction/Fantasy Masquerade was "A Visit to a Strange Planet", designed, constructed and worn by Garth Stubbs and Randy Gordon. The Historical competition's Best in Show was "Les Masques do Roi" by Gail Wolfenden-Steib, Karen Moore, and Bruce and Dana MacDermott. The Threads of Time Fashion Show on Sunday afternoon showcased garments from both the Futuristic Design and the Single Pattern Competitions. Although only about a dozen outfits from the design folio were made and displayed, more than 30 entries of garments based on the Folkwear Tibetan Panel Coat or the Russian Cossack Uniform patterns were shown on stage, all of them a unique approach to use of fabric and techniques. The Best in Show entry for this competition was Zelda Gilbert with her panel coat entry, "October Woman". The Single Pattern Competition seems to inspire both new and experienced costumers, and has become a popular and highly successful part of the "fashion/art to wear" aspects of CostumeCon. Eleanor Farrell Reprinted with permission from "The Costumer's Scribe", the monthly newsletter of the Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 11:16:09 -0400 From: Morigianna@aol.com Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #125 In a message dated 96-05-22 12:56:04 EDT, you write: >She has a ballet dance, and I want to excentuate her movements >and mourning in the costuming. The only idea that I feel comfortable with at >this point is giving her a long shawl/shroud, which can be used throughout >the >dance. > > how about a rose from the casket/grave to be used in the dance or a veil? Misty ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Jun 96 11:20:26 -0500 From: "Augusta, Karen" Subject: New Costume Website (Victoriana) I recently came upon a new 19th C. web site, "VICTORIANA, Resources for Victorian Living" . "Victoriana" has quite an array of costume related resources and information and I found it very well organized and easy to navigate. For instance, in their "Library" section, among many interesting and short articles (Needlework, Victorian Bathing, Corsets, Stagecoaches..), there were two pertaining to 19th century clothing : 1) "AUCTIONING A QUEEN'S WARDROBE" Royal Robes and State Gowns of H.M.Queen Alexandra (as an antique clothing dealer I found this 1930's auction catalog fascinating!). 2)"ANTIQUE FASHION PLATES" . "Victoriana" also has a section of the library called "Archives". Here people are invited to submit - for sale - pictures and descriptions of any 19th C. antiques which have a documented provenance. There is also a shops directory with links to resources for books, art, lace , glass, and (my favorite), antique costume. In this section Joanne Haug, creator of "Victoriana", has her mail order antique clothing catalog on line with great images for each piece. Check this website out!! Karen Augusta oldlace@sover.net ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 96 09:48 CDT From: vbetts@gower.net (Vicki Betts) Subject: Civil War Lady I've had a request to post the subscription information for Civil War Lady Magazine. Civil War Lady Magazine 622 3rd Ave. SW Pipestone, MN 56164 (507) 825-3182 $21.00 for six issues (note, this is not necessarily every two months--it's whenever they get one out ;-) ) $30.00 Canadian orders $36.00 foreign orders, remit in U.S. funds Vicki Betts vbetts@gower.net ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 15:45:38 -0700 From: Susan Fatemi Subject: Oriental brocade Gee, Beverly, if you find out, will you let us all know? My only suggestion would be Oriental Silks in L.A. I haven't ordered from them but they list brocades in their price list. Don't have the address handy, but I believe it's in the archives. There is also some place in Hong Kong that advertises in Threads (et al.) I do have the samples from Thai Silks, and they are rayon and mostly bamboo leaf motifs, probably not what you are looking for. (not what I'm looking for anyway) >Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 14:19:11 -0500 >From: Beverly Seavey >Subject: source of Tibetan/Mongolian gold brocade? > > I bought some red and gold Mongolian brocade in Beijing. >I need more, but the store where I got it, at the Palace of Ethnic >Minorities, has turned into a mattress store.:-( THis kind of >brocade is like the brocade you can find at large American >Chinatowns, but the motifs are bigger. Anyone know of a source? > Susan Fatemi susanf@eerc.berkeley.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 15:51:44 -0800 From: fsbks@mcn.org (Fred Struthers) Subject: CIVIL WAR LADY Nat'l Conference With the talk of CWL Magazine et al. I thought I'd mention the 1996 National Conference in Gettysburg PA Aug 16,17 & 18, which I recently found advertised in the latest issue of Lady's Gallery Magazine. "CIVIL WAR LADY 1996 National Conference: Features Women's Studies of the 1860's, includes sessions on Fabrics & Textiles, Dress Construction Details, Women's Outerwear, Women's Jewelry, Period Dresses & Social History. Large display of Women's clothing from private collections" etc. They mention in the ad that limited enrollment sells out every year. I don't know who the speakers (Beth Miller?) are but a free flier is available from: Civil War Lady Magazine 622 3rd Ave.SW Pipestone, MN 56164 Cheers, Fred Struthers fsbks@mcn.org ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 23:28:14 -0400 From: jreymes@eagle.ca (Reymes) Subject: H-C - RE:Folkwear/Taunton >>I was told by a friend (who owns a traveling SCA bookstore) >>that all Folkwear patterns are now out of print. If I remember >>correctly, it was because Taunton was supposedly out of >>business. > >Half right. Folkwear patterns are out of print. However Tauton Press >is alive & well. They publish my favorite sewing magazine and some of >my favorite sewing books. They simply decided to discontinue their line >of patterns. > > >Sheryl J. Nance Actually, Tauton has been looking for a buyer for the Folkwear pattern line. They wish to sell the rights to a company that will provide the same good service as Tauton. Many are still available, as their supply lasts until new ownership is established. Jennifer Reymes jreymes@eagle.ca ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jun 96 22:22 CDT From: vbetts@gower.net (Vicki Betts) Subject: Re: CIVIL WAR LADY Nat'l Conference >With the talk of CWL Magazine et al. I thought I'd mention the 1996 >National Conference in Gettysburg PA Aug 16,17 & 18, which I recently found >advertised in the latest issue of Lady's Gallery Magazine. > >"CIVIL WAR LADY 1996 National Conference: Features Women's Studies of the >1860's, includes sessions on Fabrics & Textiles, Dress Construction >Details, Women's Outerwear, Women's Jewelry, Period Dresses & Social >History. Large display of Women's clothing from private collections" etc. >They mention in the ad that limited enrollment sells out every year. > > I don't know who the speakers (Beth Miller?) are but a free flier is >available from: > >Civil War Lady Magazine >622 3rd Ave.SW >Pipestone, MN 56164 > >Cheers, >Fred Struthers >fsbks@mcn.org Beth Miller is one of the most outstanding clothing researchers and women's clothing seamstresses for the American Civil War period in the country today. She makes wonderful personally fitted corsets, and reproduces individual dresses in such fine detail so as to take your breath away. She is also a fine speaker and presenter of information and a heck of a nice person. Run, don't walk, to any program of which she is a part, and I for one will buy her new book sight unseen. Yes, I am a big fan :-). Vicki Betts vbetts@gower.net ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 09:35:28 -0400 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: Cavalier help - hats >>I want to make a new project- male and female cavaliers for my hubby and >>myself. I am looking for any info on where to get the hats (I already have >>pat's hats info) also I want to use a celtic type knotwork trim (black >>background with green and silver knotwork, beTUIFUL). is this anywhere near >>period? Do you have any suggestions for where to find good pictures or >>patterns ( I'll check out alter years at Costume colledge) also the >>boots?....... For cavalier men's wear (variety of styles by income and profession), I highly recommend "The English Civil War, 1642-1651: An Illustrated Military History" by Philip Haythornthwaite. Poole, Dorset: Blandford Press, 1983. ISBN: 0-7137-1265-5 Since many men wore their regular clothes during the English Civil War, this heavily illustrated book is a very good source. It has descriptions of men's hats and how hat bands, scarves, sprigs of plants, folded paper, etc. were used to identify one's loyalties. Lots of styles of felt hats are depicted, turned up (or not) with and without plumes. IMHO, the celtic knotwork band sounds beautiful but isn't period. A wealthy man or woman might use silk ribbons for a band, plumes, hat jewelry which could be as ornate as using diamonds. A middle class person might have a hatband of leather with a metal buckle or a less fine ribbon, a poorer person one of woven wool or a twisted piece of cloth tied with a knot, or no band at all. There aren't a lot of patterns available for this period. Janet Arnold has a woman's gown in her books but I've never made it up. I've made several women's cavalier outfits from portraits. Basics are a bum roll, a LOT of fabric in the skirt which sits high under the ribs, short-waisted bodice, usually of scooped or square neck laced in back or under the stomacher, and puffed sleeves ending either just below the elbow or at the wrist. Collar and cuffs either of fine linen or use lace trimming. Prefer lace with anglular points to it. A ribbon around the higher waist with a rosette positioned to the side is nice. The bottom of the bodice often has tabs which then makes the transition to the high, full skirt look better. Pearls were popular; long strings, single strand chokers, or wrapped several times around the wrist. Tear-drop shaped pearl earrings are often seen. They were really into ribbons, clusters of them for men at the shoulder, waist, or knees were not uncommon. Look at the costumes from the movie "Restoration" and paintings by Vermeer and Van Dyck for ideas. Sorry for rambling but I belong to a group called the Cavalier Association in Columbus, OH and its a fun period to reenact. (Went to the Battle of Nasby event in Staunton VA and had a GREAT time.) Marsha ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 11:04:10 -0400 (EDT) From: "Penny E. Ladnier" Subject: New Web Page Check it out! I finally learned how to make a Web page. It is under construction but it is out there. Its called Costume History Research. More links will be added as I find time to work on it. http://www.geocities.com/BourbonStreet/2157 FYI: The following address is where you can get a FREE homepage as long as it is personal (no businesses allowed). It's out there for taking. Even if you don't know how to set a page up, there is a beginners section. The hardest part is finding a vacant address. Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@erols.com Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money,or at least my kids think so. $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$ ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #132 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!