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Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #135
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H-Costume Digest          Thursday, June 13 1996          Volume 4, Number 135

  Compilation copyright (C) 1996  Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen M Beck
  Use in whole prohibited.  Individual articles are the property of
  the author.  Seek permission from that author before reprinting or
  quoting elsewhere.

Important Addresses:

  Send submissions to:   h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to
			  this message).
  Adds/drops/archives:   majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com
  Real, live person:     h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu

Topics:
    18 th century civilian patterns
    RE: tawdry lace
    Re: 18 th century civilian patterns
    RE: Costume Museums in Paris, Prague, and Vienna 
    Re: Costume Museums in Paris, Prague, and Vienna 
    Re: Costume Museums in Paris, Prague, and Vienna
    tawdry lace.
    lace.
    Europe
    Coventry
    Re: 18 th century civilian patterns
    Re: Regency Dress (fwd)
    Re: 18 th century civilian patterns
    Finnish Costume
    Minneapolis costume rental
    crochet time frame?
    Finland
    Re: Finland
    Re: Finnish Costume

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 20:21:42 -0400
From: DPyron1049@aol.com
Subject: 18 th century civilian patterns

Hello list: My family and I are Revolutionary War reenactors and need to find
a pattern source for authentic late 18th Century civilian clothes. Can anyone
point us to a source other than the run of the mill patterns; specifically,
tradesmens, militia and farmer attire? I am also looking for any info on
Merchant marine clothing of the same period. Thanks in advance for your help.

Lt. Doug Pyron 
Rehoboth Minueman Co.
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 96 02:07:54 UT
From: "Susan Carter" <sucarter@msn.com>
Subject: RE: tawdry lace

The pictures in QEWU are of hand written directions for braids used for purse 
strings, points, and yes, probably tawdry 'laces'.  The problem has long been 
that the directions are more or less encoded, if you don't know how to do the 
braids, they don't make sense.  The good news is that a wonderful student of 
braiding, Noemi Speiser, has decoded the crazy things.  They're done with 
loops on the fingers (called finger=loop braiding) and if you're interested 
they're included in her Manual of Braiding.  Watch out, they're habit forming.

Su
sucarter@msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 08:55:13 -0400
From: MDSDMB@aol.com
Subject: Re: 18 th century civilian patterns

Take a look at PUT ON THY BEAUTIFUL GARMENTS, Meridith Wright & Nancy
Rexford, 1990, available from The Clothes Press POB 686, Montpelier VT
05601-0686 and RURAL PENNSYLVANIA CLOTHING , Ellen Gehret, 1976, Liberty Cap
Books (try Interlibrary Loan).
Hope this helps,
Mary Denise Smith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 96 09:15:52 PDT
From: CHES@mail.io.com
Subject: RE: Costume Museums in Paris, Prague, and Vienna 

On Mon, 10 Jun 96 15:58:43 PDT  
DGC3%Rates%FAR@go50.comp.pge.com wrote:
>Several members on this list will be in Paris, Prague, and 
Vienna in July. Do 
>readers of this list have any special recommendations for 
these cities? 
>
..o0*0o..

It has been too long for me to remember all the museums but I 
do remember two things. 1)BUY A BUS PASS ASAP!!! It is worth 
it! 2)Austin, Texas has more art museums than Paris. 
Soooooo.... make sure you make friends with one of the people 
at the Louvre, they can point you to the "private" museums in 
the city.

Ciao   @}\
Ches @}----`--,-- http://www.io.com/~ches/siren.html
       @}/

Date: 06/11/96
Time: 09:15:52

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 08:20:59 -0800
From: "R.L. Shep" <shepgibb@mcn.org>
Subject: Re: Costume Museums in Paris, Prague, and Vienna 

CHES@mail.io.com wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 10 Jun 96 15:58:43 PDT
> DGC3%Rates%FAR@go50.comp.pge.com wrote:
> >Several members on this list will be in Paris, Prague, and
> Vienna in July. Do
> >readers of this list have any special recommendations for
> these cities?
> >
> ..o0*0o..
> 
> It has been too long for me to remember all the museums but I
> do remember two things. 1)BUY A BUS PASS ASAP!!! It is worth
> it! 2)Austin, Texas has more art museums than Paris.
> Soooooo.... make sure you make friends with one of the people
> at the Louvre, they can point you to the "private" museums in
> the city.
> 
> Ciao   @}\
> Ches @}----`--,-- http://www.io.com/~ches/siren.html
>        @}/
> 
> Date: 06/11/96
> Time: 09:15:52
I don't know about a BUS pass (I use the Metro - it is faster when my time 
in the city is limited).... but one of the things I do in Paris is buy a 
Museum Pass. They come in different sizes (i.e. for different amounts of 
days).  It saves on museum fees, and it means you don't have to stand in line 
to get into the crowded ones.   Paris is great for art and from paintings one 
finds costume.  There are always many museum guides available at hotels 
or tourist information bureaus.  The only 2 museums devoted to 
costume/fashion are the ones you say will be closed, but that does not mean 
you can't get a lot of information from art museums. (the food is good too!)
R.L. Shep
<http://www.mcn.org/R/RAGS>

------------------------------

Date: 11 Jun 96  9:18:00 
From: Stacey Weinberger at WADSWORTH <Stacey_Weinberger_at_WADSWORTH.WADSWORTH.ITP@wadsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Costume Museums in Paris, Prague, and Vienna

New Text Item:  Costume Museums in Paris, Prague, and Vienna
In Vienna the must sees are the Kunsthistorisches Museum, the Kaisergruft at 
the Franziskaner Kirche, the Hofburg, Schoenbrunn, and Belvedere (Museum of the 
19th and 20th Centuries) if possible.  There is a wonderful little cafe off on 
a side street near the Schottenkirche (if that's the correct name--it's been so 
long!) called Bretzelgewoelb.  It is several stories down below ground level, 
is very quaint and old artsy.  Wonderful Gluehwein and Strudel!  And of course 
the Beethovenhaus just off the Ring.

Stacey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 09:05:38 +1
From: Jon Bagguley <ccx129@coventry.ac.uk>
Subject: tawdry lace.

	Both bobbin (bone) lace and needle lace seem to have developed as 
we know them in the late 15th - early 16th so your  tawdry lace wouldn't 
have been lace as we know it unless it was a 16th century tradition possibly 
developing from something earlyer. However as several people have 
mentioned lace also means cord and sometimes thin braids and ribbons so it 
could have been this. If Saint Audrey covered a tumor with it I would guess 
what she wore was some sort of scarf but that doesn't have to bare any 
resemblace to what they sold at the fair. These things can get very muddled 
very fast.
	As to the use of silk, yes no problem. It was a common fibre for 
cords as it is very strong and imported into this country. Interestingly the 
selling of silk and silk cords seems to have been a female profession.

Esther Reeves (using my partners account)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 09:08:22 +1
From: Jon Bagguley <ccx129@coventry.ac.uk>
Subject: lace.

The posting on Tawdry lace has remined me of a question I've been meaning 
to ask.

Has anyone ever heard of Coventry Blue Lace, I found a short letter in a 
back issue of Lace, the magazine of The Lace Guild which mentions it and 
states that this lace was a pastime of the Queen, she seems to mean 
Elixabeth the first. I plan to try to contact this lady and doing some local 
research but I though I'd see if anyone else has ever heard of it. This 
combines two of my main area of study, early lace and Coventry's local 
history. I know a bit about Coventry Blue which is a colour that Coventry 
was famous for. It could be either woven fabric or thread so I assume that 
this lace is made with the thread but other than that I have never come across 
it before.. 

Also if anyone's interested Coventry do some great little booklets on local 
history two that might interest people are As True as Coventry Blue which is 
about the textile industry in Coventry and Ten Tudor Families which is a set 
of wills from the said families including inventories. They often include 
clothes especally when the will maker is female. I realise most of you live in 
the wrong countyto get these easyly but if you are interested email me and 
I'll tell you more. 

Esther Reeves (using my partners account)

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jun 96 09:40:00 GMT
From: Mrs C S Yeldham <csy20688@ggr.co.uk>
Subject: Europe

I don't know any specific living history sites around Prague, but I know
there are several happening - one at Gdansk Castle I think, this year.  The
White Company are doing a living history event at a castle near Gdansk next
August (dates to be confirmed).  I understand from friends who work in
Eastern Europe that living history is becoming important over there to
attract tourists - they have more surviving interesting buildings than
western Europe!

There will be an event at Le Puy in July, but I don't have the dates, by
the Company of St George.  I'm over in France with the White Company at the
end of August/early September for a big event at Crecy and Dinan, the White
Company and other groups are celebrating (!) the 100 Years War.

The place I've always wanted to visit in Vienna is the Kunsthistoriche
(sp?).  Ever noticed how many 16th century pictures they seem to hold?
One of the Holbein Jane Seymours is there.  They also have a collection of
wonderful Klimt pictures

Hope this helps

Caroline

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jun 96 09:39:00 GMT
From: Mrs C S Yeldham <csy20688@ggr.co.uk>
Subject: Coventry

I would be very interested in the Tudor inventories from Coventry, if you
could kindly post details.

Caroline

(Anything on food?)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 09:26:40 -0400
From: Kevin Richard-Morrow <krmorrow@ajb.dni.us>
Subject: Re: 18 th century civilian patterns

>
>At 08:21 PM 6/10/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>Hello list: My family and I are Revolutionary War reenactors and need to find
>>a pattern source for authentic late 18th Century civilian clothes. Can anyone
>>point us to a source other than the run of the mill patterns; specifically,
>>tradesmens, militia and farmer attire? I am also looking for any info on
>>Merchant marine clothing of the same period. Thanks in advance for your help.
>>
>>Lt. Doug Pyron 
>>Rehoboth Minueman Co.
>> 
>>
         While you said you aren't interested in "run of the mill" patterns
let me suggest the Janice Ryan patterns that are available from a variety of
sources. 
        We have had good luck with the mens waistcoat and frockcoat patterns. 

        Goodwife has used the stays pattern from Mill Creek Farm with success. 

        If you send a SASE to:   


             Brigade of the American Revolution 
             Pattern Master Richard Ponsini
             56 West Warren St. 
             Washington, NJ
                     07882 

                  you'll get a list of Brigade approved patterns. Patterns
are for sale to Brigade members and non-members alike.  

            The most knowledgable seller of 18th century clothing, civilian
or otherwise, is Tidy's Store House. You can reach Ken Tidy on Email at:

                          tidys@mail.del.net 

            Are you aware of the RevWar Email list? 

                      Kevin Richard-Morrow

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 14:32:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Gretchen M Beck <grm@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Regency Dress (fwd)

Note, this message is forwarded.  Please reply to mdsdmb@aol.com

Beyond a doubt, the best book in MY library for that period is A LADY OF
FASHION, Barbara Johnson's Album of Styles & Fabrics, published by Thames &
Hudson.
Good Luck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:40:11 -0400
From: Booboopies@aol.com
Subject: Re: 18 th century civilian patterns

I would like to recommend The Recollections of J.P. Ryan, 302 East Main
Street, Berryville, VA, 22611. Janice Ryan's patterns are very well
researched and relatively easy to use. And most important: The pattern pieces
actually fit together, unlike some of the other commercial patterns
available.

Another source is Carolina Stitches in Time. These patterns are also
meticulously researched. The shirts and shifts are particularly easy to make.
The owner has recently sold the business to T. Bagge, the general mercantile
in Old Salem. As soon as I have all the pertinent information, I will post
the address to the entire line.

One more source is Kannik's Korner, P.O. Box 1654, Springfield, OH, 45501.
The Kanniks have a wide variety of men's, women's, and children's clothes,
primarily focusing on the last quarter of the 18th century. Again, good
research goes into these patterns.

Hope this helps,

Karen Mullian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:02:29 -0500
From: milieux@digital.net (Lauren Podolak)
Subject: Finnish Costume

I recently received this inquiry in my email, and thought she could better
be helped by the readers of this mailing list:


I have been surfing the internet for information about Finland, and costumes
worn in that country, and during festivals.

I am looking for information of outfits for men in Finland.  My husband, his
brother and a friend of ours (who is the Finnish connection here!) are playing
during FinnFest 96 here in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in August.  Being
the procrastinator that I am, I wanted to get started ASAP.

I was wondering if there is any set costume/outfit?  I was looking for
pictures, and you'd think working in a University Library I would have some
luck - but I failed miserably for the right information!!  Anyway, I did see a
picture of a torch lighting within a family (forgot the name!), and there was
a man that had on black breeches, white heavy socks, black shoes, white shirt
and a black vest.  Is that pretty close to what would be worn?

Also, I had read that lots of ribbons were used.  Is this only for women?
Would it be offensive to make a vest with ribbons??

If possible, in other words, I need help - BIG TIME!!  I would appreciate any
help or advice you could offer.

My name is Sue Depoorter and I work at the Michigan State University Library
in East Lansing Michigan.  You can e-mail me back at 20676smw@msu.edu if you
have any info.

                        _____  .__.__  .__
                       /     \ |__|  | |__| ____  __ _____  ___
                      /  \ /  \|  |  | |  |/ __ \|  |  \  \/ /
                     /    Y    \  |  |_|  \  ___/|  |  />    <
                     \____|____/__|____/__|\____> ____//__/\__\
                   Science Fiction, Fantasy & Historical Fashions
                                milieux@digital.net
                           http://ddi.digital.net/~milieux
                                 THE COSTUME SITE
                    http://ddi.digital.net/~milieux/costume.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 18:16:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: -All- <bytebloc@deltanet.com>
Subject: Minneapolis costume rental

Does anyone know of an Elizabethan costume rental source in Minneapolis, 
Minnasota?  The event will take place in October, and the majority of 
people will be coming from out of town.

Thanks,

Carol Boettger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:54:39 -0700
From: kari@cdsnet.net (Roland & Kora Kari)
Subject: crochet time frame?

hello all,

I need information on when crochet lace was documented. Someone told me that
the first piece was documented around 1665? I thought it was developed much
earlier around 1500's. I need as much information or other sources in order
to clairify this debate.

regards
Kora

------------------------------

Date: 13 Jun 96 09:19:00 GMT
From: Mrs C S Yeldham <csy20688@ggr.co.uk>
Subject: Finland

I only have a little knowledge on Finland, at second hand.  However, I will
try.  First, you don't specify the dates you are interested in, tho from
your description it sounds like 17th century.

A second problem is, I understand, that 'Finland' as a political entity is
a modern construct (post 2nd World War?).  Through most of the area's
history it has been ruled by other countries, often Denmark, sometimes
Sweden.  If you are talking about the 17th century I think Sweden ruled
that area, in that Sweden under Gustavus Adolphus and Queen Christina
dominated most of the north.  Of course, you are talking about the 30 Years
War and its aftereffects, which left substantial parts of Germany
devastated (Brecht's Mother Courage takes place during the 30 Years War).

Good Luck

Caroline

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 12:09:19 +2
From: "Ella Lynoure Rajamaki" <lynoure@clinet.fi>
Subject: Re: Finland

On 13 Jun 96 at 9:19, Mrs C S Yeldham wrote:

The description of the costume shown in the torch picture 
sounded like a Finnish folk costume, which dates back to 19th 
century (which was a combination of garbs worn by Finnish people 
in earlier time. It was created to boost the national ego and 
unity.)


> A second problem is, I understand, that 'Finland' as a
> political entity is a modern construct (post 2nd World War?). 

Finland has been republic since 1914, before that it was an 
autonomous area under the rule of Russia (with its own senate 
etc.). And before that is was ruled by Sweden (The Kingdom of 
Sweden and Finland). But, on the other hand, Finns have had 
their own culture, religion (which was destroyed by the 
crusades) legends and traditions from ancient times. 

For more information about Finnish culture, check out 
http://www.hut.fi/~rvilmi/Project/Culture

there are lots of links to various aspects of Finnish culture 
and traditions.

Or, of course, http://www.vn.fi/vn/um/puvut.html  for a Finnish 
National Costume page. :)


					Lynoure

				(yet another Net-Finn)


 
> Good Luck
> 
> Caroline
> 
> 

Ella Lynoure Rajamaeki                   lynoure@clinet.fi
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
a small chaotic multi-era creature.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:51:21 -0600
From: "Cindy Cormack" <cormack@oakton.edu>
Subject: Re: Finnish Costume

> Date:          Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:02:29 -0500
> To:            h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu
> From:          milieux@digital.net (Lauren Podolak)
> Subject:       Finnish Costume

> I recently received this inquiry in my email, and thought she could better
> be helped by the readers of this mailing list:
> 
> 
> I have been surfing the internet for information about Finland, and costumes
> worn in that country, and during festivals.
> 
> I am looking for information of outfits for men in Finland.  My husband, his
> brother and a friend of ours (who is the Finnish connection here!) are playing
> during FinnFest 96 here in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in August.  Being
> the procrastinator that I am, I wanted to get started ASAP.
> 
> I was wondering if there is any set costume/outfit?  I was looking for
> pictures, and you'd think working in a University Library I would have some
> luck - but I failed miserably for the right information!!  Anyway, I did see a
> picture of a torch lighting within a family (forgot the name!), and there was
> a man that had on black breeches, white heavy socks, black shoes, white shirt
> and a black vest.  Is that pretty close to what would be worn?
> 
> Also, I had read that lots of ribbons were used.  Is this only for women?
> Would it be offensive to make a vest with ribbons??
> 
> If possible, in other words, I need help - BIG TIME!!  I would appreciate any
> help or advice you could offer.
> 
> My name is Sue Depoorter and I work at the Michigan State University Library
> in East Lansing Michigan.  You can e-mail me back at 20676smw@msu.edu if you
> have any info.
> 
>                         _____  .__.__  .__
>                        /     \ |__|  | |__| ____  __ _____  ___
>                       /  \ /  \|  |  | |  |/ __ \|  |  \  \/ /
>                      /    Y    \  |  |_|  \  ___/|  |  />    <
>                      \____|____/__|____/__|\____> ____//__/\__\
>                    Science Fiction, Fantasy & Historical Fashions
>                                 milieux@digital.net
>                            http://ddi.digital.net/~milieux
>                                  THE COSTUME SITE
>                     http://ddi.digital.net/~milieux/costume.html
> 
> 
> 

Old World Wisconsin has many books on Costumes form other countries.  
I would be willing to bet the farm (pun intended) that I saw a 
Finnish book, complete with great pictures, last time I was there--around October.
 If you don't want to make the trip, You might find the phone number from the Wisconsin 
Travel Bureau.

Good Luck!

Cindy Cormack

------------------------------

End of H-Costume Digest V4 #135
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