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Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #138
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H-Costume Digest          Tuesday, June 18 1996          Volume 4, Number 138

  Compilation copyright (C) 1996  Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen M Beck
  Use in whole prohibited.  Individual articles are the property of
  the author.  Seek permission from that author before reprinting or
  quoting elsewhere.

Important Addresses:

  Send submissions to:   h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to
			  this message).
  Adds/drops/archives:   majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com
  Real, live person:     h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu

Topics:
    h-costume must move!
    spangles
    re: spangles
    Re: colour question 
    Codpieces Research

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 15:37:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: close (Diane Barlow Close)
Subject: h-costume must move!

The time has come for me to say farewell to all of you on this mailing
list.  It is with sadness mixed with joy that I announce we (my husband
and I) are leaving Silicon Graphics and must close or move our mailing
lists by June 28, 1996.

The good news is we're both leaving to go to wonderful new jobs; the
bad news is the mailing lists can't come with us nor can they stay here.
I'm sad that this will mean such a disruption for everyone who has had it
so good using mailing list services for free courtesy of SGI over the past
few years, but hopefully someone on this list will step in and take over!

If you can run a mailing list from your site, *or* can offer archive
facilities for all the back digests, please contact me immediately so I
can make arrangements for a transfer.  If you can offer the service(s),
but need a bit more time, let me know that too.  We'll be taking full
backups of the archives with us when we leave, so if worse comes to
worse I can arrange e-mail transfer of the old stuff when we get to the
new company(s).

Paul's web page of h-costume archives *will* be active for longer
than June 28th, as updating web pages takes a long time around here.
So those of you with web access should be able to get old digests that
way for a couple extra months.  But Majordomo access through "lunch"
(and the lists themselves) will die as of June 28th.

Until June 28th, I can be reached as usual at:

   close@lunch.engr.sgi.com

After July 1st, I can be reached c/o:

   pdc@netcontents.com

(I will have a future separate address, but I won't know what it is
until mid-July, so pdc@netcontents.com is the best place to reach me in
the meantime, after July 1st.)

Sorry for the sudden notice, everyone, but it's happened *very* fast
for us and I'm getting out "the word" as quickly as I can!  I want
to say that I've thoroughly enjoyed my voluntary "community service
project" of running this list for the past four years and will miss all
that associated activity!  I hope to hook up with you all again, sometime
in the near future, as a fellow member.  Thanks for making the past
four years of "list running" thoroughly enjoyable and worth the work in
every way!  See you in cyberspace!
- -- 
Diane Close <close@lunch.engr.sgi.com> 
I'm at lunch all day. :-)
   If a Canadian Had Said It First (The Globe & Mail Challenge):
   "I have not yet begun to negotiate!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 08:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Catherine.Keegan@ncal.kaiperm.org
Subject: spangles

Try Kreinic.  They have them in various sizes in both gold and silver.  You
can either try contacting them directly (I've seen their ad in various
magazines) or you can bug Green Duck Designs.  They have a www page
(www.greenduck.com ??)  I've been buying mine from them

Catherine Keegan
syscxk@ncal.kaiperm.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 12:30:54 -0400
From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton)
Subject: re: spangles

I bought Elizabethan-style spangles from a sequin supplier years ago that
came on long hanks of string with galzillions on a hank.  They were very
thin metal of gold and silver color (mystery metal but they haven't turned
green yet.)

Another period name is "o" s, from their shape.  I've seen them with the
hole in the middle of the disk, not on one end, in paintings.
Unfortunately, I can't remember the supplier's name.  [Maybe the E Street
Remnant Shop in Washington D.C. years ago?]

Try checking a sequin/bead suppliers in a large city phone book (London,New
York, etc.) Call and see if they do mail order. Stay away from bridal shops
which sell mostly cheap white and opalescent plastic ones.  Same for chain
fabric stores.  Look for speciality designer fabric, sequin speciality
suppliers, and speciality suppliers for the costuming trade.  They probably
won't have catalogs so it's important to define what you need over the
phone.
Trying to commission them sounds like lots of work for unknown results.
Good luck.
  Marsha

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 12:53:15 -0500
From: Gary Stephens <garys@flexnet.com>
Subject: Re: colour question 

Penny E. Ladnier" <s0peladn@erols.com> asked:

>I am still researching color names which are now going into a database.  I
>ran across what I think maybe a color, but am unsure.  It is used in "Paris
>Fashions of the 1890's" as VANDYKE BROWN.  Does anyone know if this is a
>color name or an article of clothing which is brown?

And Sheryl Nance answered:

>  I don't know about any historical reference, but VAN DYKE BROWN is a
>  common color used in modern oil painting.

        Van Dyke Brown is actually a pigment used in all forms of painting.
It is named for Sir Anthony Van Dyck, the Flemish master of the 17th
century, as this mid-warm pigment was a favourite of his. Not as cool as
sepia nor warm as burnt umber, Van Dyke brown suited the dramatic contrast
of light and dark set by Rubens and Rembrandt. It's chemistry is such that
it is a dense, opaque pigment, suitable for underpainting.

Lorina J. Stephens
author of _Touring the Giant's Rib_ & _Credit River Valley_
http://web.idirect.com/~canuck/stephens/stephen.html
- ------------------------------------------------------------
assistant editor, art director
Maple Syrup Simmering: Canada's Online Literary 'Zine
http://web.idirect.com/~canuck/canzine.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 07:59:53 -0700
From: Gia Gavino-Gattshall <ggavino@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Codpieces Research

Hi!  This is my first time doing this, so I hope I'm doing this right and 
somebody gets this!!

 I have been trying to do research on extravagances of costuming and have 
found some wonderful sources for headdresses, shoes, bombasted breeches, 
peasod bellies and various other garment excesses in the Middle Ages.  I 
have gotten lots of information from the sumptuary laws as well as 
primary documentation and portraits.  But (you knew this was coming, 
huh?) I've yet to find more than passing references to excessively long 
codpieces.  I have had two ladies in the SCA that have *sworn* that they 
have Seen some sort of documentation supporting their claim of 12" to 24" 
codpieces.  Now, I have found much documentation regarding the display of 
male genitilia, so "modesty" or reluctulance of discussing male anatomy 
doesn't appear to be the problem.  I have found great documentation for 
the very ornamented codpieces, parti-colored codpieces, and erect 
codpieces and codpieces on armour. Someone once told me that the 
portraits with codpieces were unreliable, because the people in the 
Victorian age 'censored' the extravagant codpieces (is this true?!?); so 
I have been trying to rely on written primary documentation.  

Does any body have any information regarding the 12" - 24 " codpieces
(not erect, parallel to the ground, because that what they said they saw.
Or erect, if you know of them!)?  I have already looked online and sent
a request for more information to Codpiece International.  I'm hoping
for a reply soon, but in the meantime, I thought I'd try for information
from other informed sources.  I'm always looking to expand my horizons...
Any help or information would be helpful!  You can e-mail me at:

   ggavino@u.washington.edu

- --
Gia Gavino-Gattshall
ggavino@u.washington.edu

------------------------------

End of H-Costume Digest V4 #138
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