From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest)
To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com
Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #140
Reply-To: h-costume
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H-Costume Digest           Friday, June 21 1996           Volume 4, Number 140

  Compilation copyright (C) 1996  Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen M Beck
  Use in whole prohibited.  Individual articles are the property of
  the author.  Seek permission from that author before reprinting or
  quoting elsewhere.

Important Addresses:

  Send submissions to:   h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to
			  this message).
  Adds/drops/archives:   majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com
  Real, live person:     h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu

Topics:
    Magical shoes
    Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #138
    Cauls
    Re: Codpiece Int'l
    h-costume must move!
    Cauls (Was Hair Cages)
    Re:"Naked"
    RE:  hair cages
    Re: h-costume must move!
    Re: h-costume must move!
    Someplace to put h-costume?
    Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #139
    Re: h-costume must move!
    Re: Codpieces
    FW: Re: Anothe list 
    Re: Cauls (Was Hair Cages)
    re: notes in boxes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 12:00:27 -0700
From: Frances Grimble <lavolta@best.com>
Subject: Magical shoes

Has anyone read June Swann's article "Shoes Concealed in Buildings" in the
latest issue of the British Costume Society journal _Costume_?  It discusses
the practice of concealing shoes in buildings to ward off evil, although
Swann has been unable to get precise details on exactly what is warded off
and how.  She has mostly talked to modern informants.  She has recorded over
1,100 concealed shoes from Britain, North America, Australia, and several
European countries.  The dates of the shoes range from the 14th century into
the early 20th.  They are found in both rural areas and towns, in a wide
variety of buildings.  The most popular place for concealment is the
chimney, fireplace, or hearth, but many are also found between floors or
walls, or in other places.  The concealments are sometimes associated with
the original building process and sometimes with alterations.

Other objects concealed for the same purpose include items of dress,
especially headwear; items associated with fire; and bottles.  Some are
associated with bones, and Swann thinks the practice may be linked to the
ancient one of burying people or animals in foundations.

I was particularly interested to read about the bottles.  My parents own a
large Victorian farmhouse, built around 1860, about 25 miles southwest of
Pittsburgh.  At some point the large wood-burning fireplace had been partly
bricked up to form a smaller fireplace suitable for coal.  (Western
Pennsylvania was a coal-mining region till fairly recently.)  When my
parents bought the house they took out the extra bricks to re-enlarge the
fireplace.  They found that two bottles had been bricked in.  The only
reason they could think of was that the workmen had been drinking on the job
and wanted to conceal the evidence (though I do not remember that these were
definitely liquor bottles).  But now I wonder whether this was a concealment
of the type Swann discusses; surely there were other ways to dispose of (or
reuse) bottles?

Has anyone on this list found shoes or other objects concealed for magical
reasons?

Fran Grimble

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 07:16:18 -0400
From: ErrickII@aol.com
Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #138

Fair thee well and thak you for the time and effort.

Best regards. 

Errick von Falkenburg
(MKA) Dennis David
Errickll@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 11:01:58 -0400
From: MerryLass@aol.com
Subject: Cauls

I neglected to add that I'm on someone else's account right now... E-mail
responses to my posting on cauls should be sent to:

                                             Miranda584@aol.com

Do forgive the intrusion......

Cheers!
Miranda

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 14:59:58 GMT
From: dickie@bozzie.demon.co.uk (Paul C. Dickie)
Subject: Re: Codpiece Int'l

In message <9606192253.AA09031@ucs.orst.edu> kondoa@UCS.ORST.EDU writes:
> 
> ... I'm curious as to what men really kept in their codpieces,

Mousetraps, as a preventative measure? o-)

> if they used them as pockets (once they reached the decorative, padded 
> period, not the early flat flaps). I had heard stories that it was "cool" 
> in Elizabethan times, for a man to reach into his codpiece, pull out 
> an orange or a sweet &  offer it to his lady friend.  Is this true, or 
> is it another one  of those "costume legends"?.

"Pray tell me, good sir, is that one of those new grape fruit in thy codpiece,
or art thou really pleased to see me?"

I think it's just a legend...

Paul C. Dickie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Jun 96 09:39:58 PDT
From: ke6isf@outlander.ni.net (Dennis Allen Carr)
Subject: h-costume must move!

close@lunch.engr.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close) writes:

> The time has come for me to say farewell to all of you on this mailing
> list.  It is with sadness mixed with joy that I announce we (my husband
> and I) are leaving Silicon Graphics and must close or move our mailing
> lists by June 28, 1996.
> 

OK, along those lines, here's a suggestion - what say we set this group 
up as a newsgroup?


- ---
Dennis Allen Carr
KE6ISF
outlander!ke6isf@ccss.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 10:55:51 -0400
From: MerryLass@aol.com
Subject: Cauls (Was Hair Cages)

Jfath @aol.com writes:
>>A little while ago someone mentioned hair "cages" for medieval
hairdressing.<<

The cages are called cauls, and they could be made of a multituide of other
materials aside from metal, although the majority of the extant pieces are
metal... I'm assuming that's because the other materials deteriorated over
time... I've heard of rigid cauls being made of gold, silver, tortise shell,
mother of pearl and fine woods, often jewelled or enamelled. You could make
them yourself out of any of these materials if you have jewelers' skills and
tools... Myself, I found a plastic, faux tortise shell caul at Marks and
Spencer in London when I was last home... They're actually kind of popular
right now, and chain costume jewelry shops here in the US (Claires,
Afterthoughts) carry gold or silver toned wire versions as well as some
faux-pearl over elastic fillets.  Fillets, sometimes called soft cauls, can
be crocheted from doily patterns... I suggest a very fine silk or cotton and
a tiny crochet hook, small enough to go through the hole in whatever beads
you want to decorate the fillet with.  Then you can just crochet the beads
into the fillet, instead of going back and sewing beads on the finished doily
before you run your drawstring around the edge.  Oh, and the rigid type were
held in place with a stick, which can also be jewelled on one end... Fillets
stay put by pulling the drawstring tight.

Cheers!
Miranda

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 16:59:13 -0400
From: Booboopies@aol.com
Subject: Re:"Naked"

In a message dated 96-06-19 10:40:34 EDT, you write:

>Of course, the meaning (literal and social) of 'naked' has changed.  Some
>references to a man being naked clearly mean he is unarmed, but fully
>dressed.  There were also occasions when men would be literally naked in
>public (eg bathing) and if a woman was around she would not see - but this
>went on until the Victorian period.
>
>
In the 18th century if a man or woman were "naked," it generally meant he or
she was wearing only a shirt or shift. Hence, the "naked" soldiers in George
Washington's army were actually clothed, but to 18th century eyes and minds,
the men had no clothes to their names.

Karen Mullian

P.S. I'll miss the H-Costume List. Hope somebody is able to take it over.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 16:26:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: Deb <BADDORF@daffy.fnal.gov>
Subject: RE:  hair cages

I think I'm getting confused (maybe because the list is
confused,  but maybe it's just me).

Some of these hair cages seem to be intended to wear on 
the head.

At one point (but perhaps not this conversation)  there
was discussion about cages to keep on one's dresser,
to store hair pulled out of the hairbrush.  You later
made a pillow,  or good luck charm,  or something,  out
of the saved-up hair.

Can we clarify which (or both?)  we are discussing here?
I thought the first suggestion (metal or crocheted) was
for the "saved-up hair" idea,  but I may be wrong, given
that the last replies have been about "wear-on-the-head"
devices!                   
Deb       baddorf@fnal.gov

------------------------------

Date: 20 Jun 96 14:09:00 
From: Stacey Weinberger at WADSWORTH <Stacey_Weinberger_at_WADSWORTH.WADSWORTH.ITP@wadsworth.com>
Subject: Re: h-costume must move!

New Text Item:  h-costume must move!

ke6isf@outlander.ni.net (Dennis Allen Carr) wrote:
> OK, along those lines, here's a suggestion - what say we set this
> group up as a newsgroup?

Speaking as someone who actively uses newsgroups, it will leave us wide open to 
trolls and spams and nasty flame wars.  I've enjoyed the "quiet elegance"  of 
this list.  It has been a nice "civilized " respite from what goes out on the 
Internet.

However if that is the absolute only way we can continue, I'd vote yes.

Stacey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 14:38:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: close (Diane Barlow Close)
Subject: Re: h-costume must move!

StaceyWeinbergeratWADSWORTH <StaceyWeinbergeratWADSWORTH> wrote:
> ke6isf@outlander.ni.net (Dennis Allen Carr) wrote:
> > OK, along those lines, here's a suggestion - what say we set this
> > group up as a newsgroup?
> 
> Speaking as someone who actively uses newsgroups, it will leave us
> wide open to trolls and spams and nasty flame wars.  I've enjoyed the
> "quiet elegance"  of this list.  It has been a nice "civilized " respite

I'm still waiting to hear back from several people on machine
availability.  A couple people volunteered to take the list, but are
having problems getting their machines up and/or working, so I'm still
actively looking for a good host/solution.  Anyone who can offer space
(with listserv or majordomo) or can host the whole show, please write
me asap!  Gretchen Beck is still willing and able to run the list on a day
to day basis, as she's doing now -- we just need somewhere to put it! :-)
- -- 
Diane Close <close@lunch.engr.sgi.com> 
I'm at lunch all day. :-)
   If a Canadian Had Said It First (The Globe & Mail Challenge):
   "I have not yet begun to negotiate!"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 18:15:08 +2510
From: "David M. Mitchell" <dmitchell@gatecoms.gatecom.com>
Subject: Someplace to put h-costume?

I'm all in favor of staying email-oriented, but if as a newsgroup is 
the only way we can survive, so be it.

However--Penny Ladnier wrote about www.geocities.com as offering free 
web sites--maybe there's some way we can take advantage of a site?  
Maybe for the archives?  I don't know anything about how web sites are 
set up or how the memory involved works or even how far the geocities 
offer extends...but hey, just a hopeful thought. :-)

Cheryl

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 17:10:15 -0700
From: iteach@slip.net (Elizabeth Pruyn)
Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #139

>There used to be a bead shop on Princes Street (I think) in London that
>had the real metal spangles; I bought them there once.  The ones I got
>were round with the hole in the center, but they were perfect.  As I recall,
>the name of the store was "The Bead Shop" but I'm not positive about
>that.  They sell all kinds of beads, pearls, etc.

I think you are refering to Ells & Ferrier (which also goes by the names of
Creative Bead Craft Ltd. and The BEad House).

Their shop address is:
20 Princes Street
Hanover Square
London W1

The office/mail order address is:
Denmark Works,
Sheepcote Dell Road,
Beamond End,
Near Amersham,
Buckinghamshire,
HP7 0rx
England

They have 8 sizes of flat spangles in their catalog.  I don't want to give
prices as my catalog is from 1991.  I have ordered trim and beads from them
and everything went well.

Hope this helps.

Yours,
ELizabeth

Elizabeth Pruyn     iteach@slip.net     Oakland, CA

"If I had been around when Rubens was painting, I would have been revered
as a fabulous model.  Kate Moss?  Well, she would have been the paint
brush..."  - Dawn French

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 20:10:09 -0700
From: sexton@mail.wsu.edu (Althea Sexton)
Subject: Re: h-costume must move!

Diane,
I tried to send a message to you last nite, but it bounced.  I'm still
wanting to hear back from the admin here.  I'll let you know as soon as I
hear anything.

Althea L. Sexton (aka) Althea L. Sexton - ALTHEA_SEXTON@WSU.EDU
http://www.physplt.wsu.edu/info.html   (WordSmith's WebBook)
http://www.physplt.wsu.edu/craft.html  (Craftivity)
Earth First!  We'll log the other planets later.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 23:24:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Penny E. Ladnier" <s0peladn@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Codpieces

I hope I don't get flamed for saying this, remember that I am paraphrasing
my Costume History Instructor:

Henry VIII was well known for the codpieces he wore.  He was also known to
have kept bon-bons in his codpieces.  When flirting with the ladies, he
would give them a bon-bon from his codpiece.  

What is the earliest date found on usage of the codpiece?  My textbook dates
it in the early 1400's.


Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University
s0peladn@erols.com
Http://www.geocities.com/BourbonStreet/2157
Pennies from Heaven, where it's always reigning money,or at least my kids
think so.
 $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $  $
$  $   
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$$$$$$

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 22:38:52 PDT
From: ches@io.com
Subject: FW: Re: Anothe list 

On Thu, 20 Jun 96 22:26:26 PDT  ches@io.com wrote:
Diane,
This is the note I got back from my server on getting a list set up. Has 
anyone else voluteered to do it? Is this what is needed? Get back to me.
>
>
On Thu, 20 Jun 1996 18:09:13 -0500 (CDT)  Noah Lee - User Admin wrote:
On Wed, 19 Jun 1996 CHES@mail.io.com wrote:

> I am part of a list that is about to go down and would like to know >if 
the following things are possible:
> 
> Can I have another list?
>
Another list would require you to setup a data services account. With 
that you get multiple email lists, 50 meg of disk storage space and 1 gig 
of outgoing traffic a month. This has a one time $50 setup fee and 
$35/month. If you want this setup just send email to: accting@io.com.
>
> An Archive?
>
You can have your current mailing list archived if its running in digest 
mode. The archives of the list can be found at: 
~ftp/pub/mailing-lists/listname. If you need just an archive that the 
mailing list can access through email let me know and I can set it up.
>
> An FTP site for the archive off my web page?
>
This could just be a link to the above directory...
....................................................
:Noah Lee -  User Administrator - Illuminati Online:
....................................................
:juggler@io.com       :: http://www.io.com/~juggler: 
:Majordomo-Owner      :: DJ & Texas Raves Owner    :
:"The Mac Guy"	      :: Support Free Speech	   :
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::


..o0*0o..

Ciao   @}\
Ches @}----`--,-- http://www.io.com/~ches/siren.html
       @}/

Date: 06/20/96
Time: 22:38:52

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 00:43:30 -0400
From: Jafath@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cauls (Was Hair Cages)

Cauls. Thank you. (I always feel the problem is half solved once you've
defined all the words). We are speaking here of gadgets that go on the head,
usually for 14th C costume.. I think the other ones are "hair tidies."

I'm a terrible crocheter.. Otherwise that's probably the best idea. Maybe
lace knitting ... (now, _that's_ something I can do respectably well.)

The metal baskets that I saw (probably not all there are) were rectangular.
But seems to me that at least half of those I saw in effigies, etc, were,
too. I think the cylindrical ones are the most elegant, but have yet to see
anything that looks likely.

As for the various things sold by Claires, et al -- I have quite a lot of
hair, and have had a terrible time finding "containers" big enough to put it
up in, just for the office! So I have quite a collection, and none look
likely to stay on the sides of my head for more than a few minutes (less if I
move!) Maybe  the backs could be laced, somehow?

Back to the drawing board.
Thanks, all.
Jo Anne

------------------------------

Date: Mon,  5 Feb 96 16:44:16 MST
From: mgriggs@shepards.com
Subject: re: notes in boxes

Julie Cheetham <cheetham%u.washington.edu@internet.shepards.com Wrote:
| 
| Betsy Perry commented that she should probably put a note 
| in the box with 
| the outfit her grandmother made for her so that 
| "posterity" would know 
| why she kept it and what it meant to her.
| 
| As a plea from any of us who have catalogued costume for 
| museums, 
| maintained collections, done costume research or inherited 
| garments may I 
| second, "YES, PLEASE PLEASE PUT SOME IDENTIFYING 
| INFORMATION WITH ANY 
| GARMENT OR TEXTILE YOU ARE SAVING!"  This is true whether 
| it is something 
| which has been passed down to you with verbal family 
| history or something 
| you yourself have chosen to save.  If you have a 
| photograph of the owner 
| wearing it, that is a wonderful item to keep with the 
| garment.  In 
| addition, anything you know about the following will be 
| useful:
| 
| 1.  The date it was made or purchased.
| 2.  If made, who made it and where; if purchased, where 
| and for what amount
| 3.  The composition of the fabric;
| 4.  Name and a short bio of the person who owned the 
| garment
| 5.  If made for a special event, what that was, date, 
| description, etc
| 6.  If kept for sentimental reasons, what those were
| 7.  Any alterations the garment has been through, if known
| 8.  History of how the garment was stored (found in a wood 
| trunk in an 
| attic, etc)--information which may help with conservation
| 
| Julie Lassiter Cheetham    cheetham@u.washington.edu
| 

If you do place a piece of paper in a storage container, make certain that the 
paper used is acid free.  Much of the paper in the West (Colorado, especially) 
contains high levels of acid.  This acid can break down the paper and can 
damage garments.  You can get acid free paper in art supply stores and pens to 
use in testing the acidic quality of paper.  They are worth the little extra 
investment to preserve your information and your garment!

Lyssa


- -----------------------------------------
Lady Leofsige O Caoimh
mgriggs@shepards.com
- -----------------------------------------

------------------------------

End of H-Costume Digest V4 #140
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