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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 09:41:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
In-Reply-To: <009701bef444$184e7120$adc3fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I haven't seen the actual pattern...but from the looks of the pattern
cover, yes, that should work.

Drea

On Tue, 31 Aug 1999, Michelle wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> Then, it should work to use the new Elizabeth, Simplicity, without the slope
> in the breast area to make the corset in the Janet arnold book, right?  (The
> one with the boning absent where the breasts would be)
>   Michelle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Monday, August 30, 1999 9:16 AM
> Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
> 
> 
> >
> >-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> >
> >
> >>   Similar to the Tudor bodice right?
> >
> >yup.
> >
> >
> >>    So what you are saying is that it is pretty much the equivalent of
> >> wearing two bodices, instead of a corset and bodice?  You wouldn't wear a
> >> corset, a petticoat bodice and a bodice on the outside, right?  2 or 2,
> not
> >> 3
> >
> >
> >I don't know how they wore them back then--I myself wear it with a kirtle
> >and gown usually, without a corset.  I have worn it over a corset when I'm
> >wearing fancy Elizabethan court dress.
> >
> >
> >Drea
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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> 

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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 10:07:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 8/31/99 5:36:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com writes:

> Ebay is bad... I have discovered this *grin*

Advice from a serious ebay addict: get out while you can! :-) Seriously, I 
have found some wonderful deals on costume pieces and patterns within the 
last six months...from boots to a Pendragon bodice that I desperately wanted 
to corset kits. It's definitely a place to keep an eye on for additions to 
your garb wardrobe.

(BTW--If anyone on this list is responsible for selling me any of the items 
I've purchased, THANK YOU!)

DaniG
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 09:02:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 07:13:06 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: WAS:  Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern, NOW: EBay
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

     So where in the EBay site does one discover 'period' [whatever period]
garments, please?   I was looking through the fabric pages... .  Thank you.
 Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 09:10:01 1999
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Subject: Re: WAS:  Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern, NOW: EBay
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/1/99 9:15:32 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cjcannon@greymists.com writes:

> So where in the EBay site does one discover 'period' [whatever period]
>  garments, please?   I was looking through the fabric pages... .  Thank you.
>   Carol

Carol, it's mostly a luck thing. I search on things like "renaissance", 
"costume", "garb", "corset", etc. Some of the "custom made costumes" are not 
quite up to my standards (no offense meant to anyone on this list who sells 
on ebay) but there are a couple of people clearing out their costume closets 
for whatever reason.

I think there is also a section on patterns and historical clothing.

Good luck, but it's addictive. :-)
Dani G
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 09:26:37 1999
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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <karalee.larsen@usa.net>
Subject: H-COST: Got beets, now what?
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <karalee.larsen@usa.net>

A friend has had an over abundance of beets grow in her garden this year
and she has a question. She's heard that beets were used for dying. If that
is true, where would we look for information on mordants, and all the other
stuff needed to dye and fix a peice of cloth?


Karalee Larsen Pugmire
karalee.larsen@usa.net




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 10:29:32 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: WAS:  Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern, NOW: EBay
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> > So where in the EBay site does one discover 'period' [whatever period]
> >  garments, please?   I was looking through the fabric pages... .  Thank
you.
> >   Carol

I've had some luck going to the antiques section of the main menu, then to
the fabrics sub-section. There are a lot of linens and such, but every now
and then, a costume treasure.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re. Christening gown
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I second Kat's comments about the Edward V! Prayer Book - nothing to do with the king's own baptism!
It's my understanding that, once the practice of swaddling had died out, very young babies (of the wealthier classes, at least) were dressed in very long clothes for everyday wear, so the Christening gown would simply be a "best" version of this. 

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 11:52:37 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:31 PM 08/31/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>Then, it should work to use the new Elizabeth, Simplicity, without the slope
>in the breast area to make the corset in the Janet arnold book, right?  (The
>one with the boning absent where the breasts would be)

If you're a B-cup or less, yes, it should work.  More than that and you will
probably need to change the angle of the shoulder strap.  Also, the neckline
will need to be lowered several inches. 


Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 07:13 AM 09/01/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>     So where in the EBay site does one discover 'period' [whatever period]
>garments, please?   I was looking through the fabric pages... .  Thank you.
> Carol

There is no specific costume category on Ebay, although there ought to be.
If you search on "costume" alone you'll get thousands of hits for costume
jewelry.  

I've seen costumes in the vintage sections, regular clothing, bridal, and
collectibles.  You really have to search on things like "rennaissance
costume" , and expect to see some really wonky examples thereof.  

Pricing can range from very good to outrageous, depending on how many people
are bidding.  I find that the prices on any fabric I would want tend to be
ridiculous, and costume  patterns that you can get at JoAnne's $.99 sale are
selling for up to $20.

Also be warned that Ebay buying is a case of caveat emptor.  I have seen
"medieval" costumes that would make an SCA newbie blush, and on the other
hand, I've seen 1840's lingerie labeled 1950's.  You have to know about what
you're buying, or just not care.  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 12:25:11 1999
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Hiring servants, was Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things  from their belts
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19990831201452.3b37abbe@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Wow! I'm sold!  Where do you live?
Emma

> Now, now, not so fast, Margo. Maybe we need to bid on David's
services.<G>
> There are several of us who could use a sturdy groom. And Michealmas hiring
> day is coming soon!
> 
> Master David, I would pay thee two pounds a year plus livery [see, I *did*
> keep it costume-related! <g>] plus full board & lodging and will provide
> thee a horse with its yearly keeping since I must travel with the Queen
> where e're she goes. What say you?
> Joan Jurancich
> aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the Queen [RPFN]
> joanj@quiknet.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wardrobe Place
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 17:45:24 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Karen wrote:
> I was in London just this last February and much to my dismay, I found
> that Wardrobe Place is in the middle of being redeveloped. The lovely and
> picturesque courtyard which I found on my first few trips to London is
> now being torn down and built up with what I expect will be nasty modern
> buildings. You can't even really go into the courtyard because it is a
> construction site and you need permission and safety gear. 

Oh no, they did it again.

St.
> Andrews-by-Wardrobe, a church just next door, had a photographic display
> of some of the urban archeology which was done just as the 17th-18th
> century buildings were being torn down and which show some of the remains
> of the old Wardrobe which were found under them. All that is probably
> covered up with modern excressences by now. The Old City is still worth a
> look-see if you want a flavor of Old London. They haven't ruined
> everything....yet........

Last time I was there was in 1991 and it still was the same as the first
time in 1968: the Youth Hostel, the Breakfast Place opposite, manned by
loud Italians, the little shops and offices. Are you telling me they have
gone too. What about the beautiful pub at the head of Carter Lane near
Blackfriars?

Shame,


Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 14:11:24 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 12:27:27 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Sarah,  There are a couple of pages of patterns for sale in the AlterYears
catalog. (I don't really recommend ordering from them if you don't have a
couple of months to wait for your order.)  I think there are some in the
Amazon Dry Goods catalog too.
   Michelle


>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

>I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today... so
>now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
>know where I could find a pattern for the really
>frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits?
>Please?
>
>Sarah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 14:22:52 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: WAS:  Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern, NOW: EBay
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 12:38:55 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I have been thinking about this.  People tend to make more costumes as their
shape or size changes.  Which means, they end up with a box or closet full
of stuff they wont or can't use.    Why don't more people swap?  I think it
would be fun.  I have given away a few of my things but, I would have rather
traded.  (Not that I didn't enjoy helping the new-to-fair people...)  I have
noticed that on both the SCA garb and H-Cost list, when someone mentions
having anything that doesn't fit them anymore, there seems to be at least 2
people that ask about it.
  However, there is that 'standards' problem.


>
>Carol, it's mostly a luck thing. I search on things like "renaissance",
>"costume", "garb", "corset", etc. Some of the "custom made costumes" are
not
>quite up to my standards (no offense meant to anyone on this list who sells
>on ebay) but there are a couple of people clearing out their costume
closets
>for whatever reason.
>
>I think there is also a section on patterns and historical clothing.
>
>Good luck, but it's addictive. :-)
>Dani G
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 14:37:50 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:46:41 -0500
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From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

Hello List!

I hope someone has a solution to a problem I'm having.  I'm making a
version of the Shinrone Gown to wear this weekend and I'm using buttons to
lace up the front of the bodice.  After getting the 2-dozen little buggers
on last night, I discovered that the cording slips off the buttons rather
easily.  The buttons are 3/8" shank buttons in silver-toned metal.  The
buttons would pull over, and the cord slipped off.  I then tried to "crimp"
the shanks, squeezing gently with pliers.  That helped a bit, but I was
hoping someone on the list could give me a tip or 3 on the subject.  Would
one type or size of cording work better than another?  Or is there
something else I can do to the buttons to make this more secure in closing?

Thanks for any suggestions!
Doris


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 14:38:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Got beets, now what?
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 12:54:41 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I think warming with vinegar in your beet-water mixture should set the color
well enough.  Every year, when I decorate Easter eggs, I use onion skins.
This is how I do it:  Simmer skins in water (enough to cover) until skins
are transparant, take out skins.  Put new skins in, again simmer until
transparant.  Doing it in stages allows for a darker dye (smaller amount of
water, otherwise you dilute the color). Add one quarter to one half a cup of
vinegar to the pot.   You can simmer the eggs with the color or cook them
and let them sit in the cool water. (You can put a leaf, flower, papercut
against the shell and wrap it tightly with a piece of nylon stocking to hold
it in position.  This makes a pretty decoration. Just make sure the plant
pieces are edible.  Don't poison yourself.)
   I took a class on cooking for children.  During the class we had a
special unit on Easter egg dying naturally.  You can color them with carots,
beets, etc. too. There were a list of veggies and these were on it. No
matter which veggie you used, it pretty much works the same way as I
described above.  If it colors eggs, why wouldn't it work for your fabric?


>
>-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <karalee.larsen@usa.net>
>
>A friend has had an over abundance of beets grow in her garden this year
>and she has a question. She's heard that beets were used for dying. If that
>is true, where would we look for information on mordants, and all the other
>stuff needed to dye and fix a peice of cloth?
>


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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 12:58:55 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>  After getting the 2-dozen little buggers
> on last night, I discovered that the cording slips off the buttons rather
> easily.  The buttons are 3/8" shank buttons in silver-toned metal.  The
> buttons would pull over, and the cord slipped off.  [snip] Or is there
> something else I can do to the buttons to make this more secure in closing?

Well, in elizabethan period some men's doublets had lacing eyelets with buttons
sewn next to them.  So there would be the look of lots of beautiful expensive
buttons but the doublet would be laced closed.  You could add a row of eyelets
and lace in a similar fashion.  I can't think of any way to make buttons work
except to use buttons that have no shank, flat, round, not-period buttons.  But
you could use wood, metal, or bone buttons maybe at least they aren't plastic.
They would just have to be buttons that lie flat against the fabric and don't
wobble.  Why did you opt for buttons and not lacing?

Merouda
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 15:05:38 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

I've heard of lacing through the shanks, after dropping them through they
eyelets. I want to try this sometime when I have a lot of nice buttons.

BTW, does anyone know how authentic/inauthentic it woulkd be if the buttons
werent' all the same, but of similar type? Any period knowledge welcome...

-Amanda


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From: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

AArrrrgghhh, don't keep me in suspense like this!! ;-)  Can you find the
ebay pic and copy/past the url to it (whole thang) into a post?

Thanks
Heather
(who might be able to help you out if I could see the one you're looking
at)

> I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today... so
> now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
> know where I could find a pattern for the really
> frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits? 
> Please?
> 
> Sarah
>
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Subject: H-COST: EBay
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/1/99 2:35:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

> Why don't more people swap?  I think it would be fun. 

Michelle~
I agree completely! People who participate regularly in events requiring 
costume/garb tend to make several pieces for variety (myself included). I do 
have a friend that I swap pieces with to keep from wearing the same outfit 
every day of our 18 day run or at other faires that may call for a different 
time period.

Are you suggesting a costume swap via list? How do you propose to do so? I 
think it's a *fantastic* idea if it can be accomplished. Not only do I change 
sizes, my children are growing. What do I do with outgrown costumes that are 
not worth the effort of altering them?

>However, there is that 'standards' problem.

I truly did not mean my comment to be offensive. I have been doing faire and 
making costumes for myself, my husband and my children for eight years. While 
I am by no means a professional seamstress, I do try to stay period and pay 
attention to things like color and fabric. Some of the things I have seen on 
ebay have been in bright, shiny gold, trimmed in fur, have zippers, or are 
poly-rayon blends that look like poly-rayon. Those types of things would not 
be acceptable at our faire. That's all I meant by "standards."  I like to 
look like I know what I'm doing.

I apologize if I've stepped on any toes.

DaniG

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 15:43:52 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 15:54:19 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
In-Reply-To: <37CDB1C4.2BF2@enteract.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Well there are several on there so please list the one you saw, here are
the ones I saw
http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=wethree3

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 1 Sep 1999, lynnx wrote:

> Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 16:07:48 -0700
> From: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
> 
> 
> -Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
> 
> AArrrrgghhh, don't keep me in suspense like this!! ;-)  Can you find the
> ebay pic and copy/past the url to it (whole thang) into a post?
> 
> Thanks
> Heather
> (who might be able to help you out if I could see the one you're looking
> at)
> 
> > I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today... so
> > now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
> > know where I could find a pattern for the really
> > frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits? 
> > Please?
> > 
> > Sarah
> >
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 15:46:12 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990901142611.009484e0@djnash.mail.iastate.edu>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Well, my suggestion is to make loops on the cording if you have enough of
it and just loop them on the buttons, kinda like lassos. You can tie loops
or just loop and twist as you go.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 1 Sep 1999, Doris J Nash wrote:

> Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:46:41 -0500
> From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
> 

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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 16:58:36 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

> AArrrrgghhh, don't keep me in suspense like this!! ;-)  Can you find the
>  ebay pic and copy/past the url to it (whole thang) into a post?

Heather, I don't know if this is the one Sarah was looking at, but I found a 
neat outfit at 
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=156092882

I went to misc/clothing/women and searched on gypsy. There were 53 items 
listed.

Is that the one, Sarah?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 16:31:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 17:41:03 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
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-Poster: DzMzLzy@aol.com

I've done something that looks like lacing with buttons but isn't really.  

The trick is to put an O-ring or a d-ring on so that the button is holding 
the ring and then you lace through the ring.  Ta-da!  I did this on a dress I 
laced in front with some flat woven braid and it allowed me to keep the braid 
flat.  

Important!  The ring has to be smaller than the button AND it's best if the 
rings are solid welded closed.  If there is an opening in the ring the lacing 
will either get caught, or slip out.  Really irritating.

Liz Gerds
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 16:50:51 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 17:01:12 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
In-Reply-To: <37CD857E.3C820BB6@serv.net>
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 12:58 PM 9/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>>  After getting the 2-dozen little buggers
>> on last night, I discovered that the cording slips off the buttons rather
>> easily.  The buttons are 3/8" shank buttons in silver-toned metal.  The
>> buttons would pull over, and the cord slipped off.  [snip] Or is there
>> something else I can do to the buttons to make this more secure in closing?
>
>Well, in elizabethan period some men's doublets had lacing eyelets with
buttons
>sewn next to them.  So there would be the look of lots of beautiful expensive
>buttons but the doublet would be laced closed.  You could add a row of eyelets
>and lace in a similar fashion.  I can't think of any way to make buttons work
>except to use buttons that have no shank, flat, round, not-period buttons.
 But
>you could use wood, metal, or bone buttons maybe at least they aren't plastic.
>They would just have to be buttons that lie flat against the fabric and don't
>wobble.  Why did you opt for buttons and not lacing?
>
	I've had the buttons for a long time, and this seemed a good way to use
them.  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.

>Merouda
>--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Bornover
>Barony of Madrone
>Kingdom of An Tir
	
	Thanks for the suggestion!
Doris


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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 15:15:44 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>         I've had the buttons for a long time, and this seemed a good way to use
> them.  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
> were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.

But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.  But you've got lots of great ideas.  Just
remember that just because something is period in one place at one time doesn't
make it period in another place even in the same time.  I thought the idea about
sewing little metal rings next to the buttons to be particularly inspired.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 17:16:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 15:26:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Here you go... it took some work to find 'cuz the
auction is over, but I found it. ;-)  I'm still
drooling...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150803941

Sarah

> AArrrrgghhh, don't keep me in suspense like this!!
> ;-)  Can you find the
> ebay pic and copy/past the url to it (whole thang)
> into a post?
> 
> Thanks
> Heather
> (who might be able to help you out if I could see
> the one you're looking
> at)
> 
> > I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today...
> so
> > now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
> > know where I could find a pattern for the really
> > frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits? 
> > Please?
> > 
> > Sarah
> >
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 17:20:18 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Nope... but is is neat... I'm looking for a bit more
flamboyant... something to rival my auburn flaming
hair... ;-)

Sarah


http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=156092882
> 
> I went to misc/clothing/women and searched on gypsy.
> There were 53 items 
> listed.
> 
> Is that the one, Sarah?
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 18:09:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:41:45 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: NOW: Recycling clothing 'outgrown'/&c. WAS: EBay  -- ATTN:
  Grania esp.
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:38 PM 9/1/99,  "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com> wrote:
>I have been thinking about this.  People tend to make more costumes as their
>shape or size changes.  Which means, they end up with a box or closet full
>of stuff they wont or can't use.    Why don't more people swap?  I think it
>would be fun.  I have given away a few of my things but, I would have rather
>traded.  (Not that I didn't enjoy helping the new-to-fair people...)  I have
>noticed that on both the SCA garb and H-Cost list, when someone mentions
>having anything that doesn't fit them anymore, there seems to be at least 2
>people that ask about it.
>  However, there is that 'standards' problem.
                     It seems to me that in this case--this might also be
the answer to part of the FAQ for newcomers to the SCA, inc.   "Where do I
find clothes, if I can't sew and don't know anyone who will?"   Gold Key
has loaner garb and is at most Kingdom level events, and some
Principality/Local events have their own Gold Keys, too.   I highly
recommend donating attire you've outgrown or just don't want anymore to
them.  It's a good cause and they always need the help!  -- Gra/inne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 18:11:28 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:57:53 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kilts, Regimental & Piercing...
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

         I wrote to a friend of mine, as I felt he could speak with some
authority on the topics  under discussion.  Here is his response:
>You may quote me, Carol.  You may quote Aryeh J.S. Nusbacher, Senior
Lecturer,
>Royal Military Academy, Sandhurst, late 48th Highlanders of Canada, as saying
>"there is not the merest scintilla of evidence to suggest that body
piercing was
>ever required or permitted as part of wearing kilts by any Highland, Lowland,
>Scottish or Irish regiments of HM British or Commonwealth forces."
>
>Carol J. Bell Cannon [aka: Gra/inne ingen Domnaill Ilda/naig] wrote:
>
>> So--what is the military requirement about what one wears under the
>> kilt--don't I recall you saying you were allowed some kind of
underpinnings?
>
>You do not.  By convention, male highlanders do not wear anything under their
>kilts.
>
>I do know, however, know precisely when the practice of being naked under the
>kilt began.  It might have been during Queen Victoria's reign -- she ordered
>military kilts to be made from a lighter-weight fabric because of
discomfort to
>the soldiers.  I do know that the custom was in place as early as the First
>World War.
>
>You may quote me on that as well.
>
>Best,
>
>Aryk
> 
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:50:30 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 04:19 PM 9/1/99, Amanda <sustre@pixelations.com> wrote: I've heard of
lacing through the shanks, after dropping them through the eyelets. I want
to try this sometime when I have a lot of nice buttons.
              I would fear that the tension on the shanks would pull them
apart and cause the buttons to be more easily lost.  I would love to know
what those who have tried that technique have found to be the case. --
Gra/inne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 18:24:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 16:37:28 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I would fear that the tension on the shanks would pull them
> apart and cause the buttons to be more easily lost.  I would love to know
> what those who have tried that technique have found to be the case. --

Front what I can tell, in England, from the 13th to the 18th centuries this
was a common way of attaching buttons.  Make little eyelets, stick the shanks
through the eyelets, use a string to connect all the shanks, knot the string.
Voila, removable buttons.  This was a sensible practice in times when buttons
were extremely expensive.  And in times when royalty was using button with
precious stones, a very parctical solution.

Remember the diamond buttons in "Three Musketeers".  Why keep buttons in a
box?  Because you only temporarily attached buttons to garments so that you
could have diamond buttons on all your clothing but only one set of buttons.

In the Thames digs, they found eyelet strips with absolutely *no* tension
marks on them at all.  They suspect this was because buttons were attached in
this corded manner.  Which tells me, that if this is so, then the buttons
should be fine.  If the buttons are having enough tension put on them to break
them then the garment is *way* too tight and no matter how you attach them,
they're going to bust.  Or your buttons aren't sturdy enough to do their job.

Any other ideas?
Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
>> were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.
>
>But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.

Why?  

The description of Irish women's dress by  Luke Gernon in the 1620's says: 

. On the forepart of those bodyes they have a sett of broad silver buttons
of goldsmiths worke sett round about. 

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 20:35:17 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Saffron shirts
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-Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>

At 01:17 PM 08/30/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>As far as I have been able to asetain, saffron was not avaliable to the
>majority of the saffron shirt wearers in the earlier period. However a
>bright yellow can be achieved very easily with several plants, onion skins
>particularly springs to mind. However this dosen';t answer the question of
>why they were called saffron shirts as opposed to onion skin shirts or
>whatever :), unless the describers were familiar with the more expensive
>saffron as a dyestuff and described it such ? Like we say orange for a
>colour & a fruit , what can first the colour or the fruit ? Anyone know ?
>
>Mel

Mel, the dye used was weld.

-- Mara

-------------------------------------------
"I tried to contain myself... but I escaped."
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Textiles_Page.htm
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 19:37:34 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <E11MJLX-00073m-00@mongoose.slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling clothing 'outgrown'/&c. 
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 20:42:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

LOL,  theatre shops and museums loan all the time.  Theatre shops swap or
loan with one another, and museums loan to other museums.

Later... Penny
************************************
Deadline for entries to the Online Costume Ball  is Sept. 21st.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 20:30:43 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Neat History Website
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 21:38:33 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Spy Letters of the American Revolution (website),
http://www.si.umich.edu/spies/  Looks interesting!!!

Later... Penny
************************************
Deadline for entries to the Online Costume Ball  is Sept. 21st.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 01:21:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 23:38:24 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

. I thought the idea about
>sewing little metal rings next to the buttons to be particularly inspired.
>
>Cynthia



I, also, thought that idea was cool.
        Another idea, along the same line with the rings:  If you have
eyelets, you can use shank buttons.  Put a jump/split (like key rings but
small, I can't remember their proper name) through the shank after inserting
the shank in the eyelet. This puts the ring on the inside of the garment and
the button flat on the outside.  You can then, lace through the rings. (This
is a way to cover those dumb, unperiod grommets too)

  Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: EBay
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 23:53:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-->
>Michelle~
>
>Are you suggesting a costume swap via list? How do you propose to do so? I
>think it's a *fantastic* idea if it can be accomplished. Not only do I
change
>sizes, my children are growing. What do I do with outgrown costumes that
are
>not worth the effort of altering them?

I have all of the dresses my daughter has worn to faire since her birth. She
is now eight.  I just keep them... I have also changed sizes.
   I didn't mean 'exactly' via list. I would have to think about that.  It
would seem that pictures, descriptions and sizes/measurements, would have to
be posted somewhere. Hmm...maybe a swaping website?  I will work on this
idea and see what I can come up with. I figured when I made the comment to
the list that something like that would have to be more localized.  Now, I
am thinking it might be possible. Got any suggestions?
>
>>However, there is that 'standards' problem.
     What I meant by this, is... people couldn't be extremely picky. For
something like this to work there would have to be some flexibility in
costuming standards.  No matter how bad something is, someone spent time and
effort to do it.  That should be respected.  Trades should be of equal value
and quality, periodness included.


>I truly did not mean my comment to be offensive.
>DaniG
What comment?  There was absolutely nothing directed at you or any one else
on the list.  I hope I clarified my thought better now.

  Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 01:56:24 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: NOW: Recycling clothing 'outgrown'/&c. WAS: EBay  -- ATTN: Grania esp.
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 00:13:23 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

 Carol,
   Most of the garb I make is for everyone else.  I end up doing it for
nothing. Once, I charged my nephews girlfriend $20 for each piece (she got
an overdress, underskirt and chemise=$60.  I was so thrilled, I bought
myself one of those mini sergers with the money).  If someone comes to me
and needs help, I usually do it for them.  Consequently, I never seem to get
around to making anything for myself.
   I am under the impression that most of us do things like this. This is
why swapping sounded nice.
   I wasn't aware of the Gold Key.  Where is it? I am in CAID (Fresno).  Can
you email me privately with more info on who directs this aspect?
   Michelle


>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>                     It seems to me that in this case--this might also be
>the answer to part of the FAQ for newcomers to the SCA, inc.   "Where do I
>find clothes, if I can't sew and don't know anyone who will?"   Gold Key
>has loaner garb and is at most Kingdom level events, and some
>Principality/Local events have their own Gold Keys, too.   I highly
>recommend donating attire you've outgrown or just don't want anymore to
>them.  It's a good cause and they always need the help!  -- Gra/inne
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 06:24:09 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Got beets, now what?
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 22:48:27 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

You can cut them like potatoes and printing with them. Cut
in half, and the carve a shape out of the flat part.  Makes
lovely designs on white tissue paper to use for gift wrap.
Did it myself once, and I was quite pleased with the
results. They create their own ink.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Michelle
> Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 3:55 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Got beets, now what?
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
> I think warming with vinegar in your beet-water mixture
> should set the color
> well enough.  Every year, when I decorate Easter eggs, I
use
> onion skins.
> This is how I do it:  Simmer skins in water (enough to
cover)
> until skins
> are transparant, take out skins.  Put new skins in, again
simmer until
> transparant.  Doing it in stages allows for a darker dye
> (smaller amount of
> water, otherwise you dilute the color). Add one quarter to
> one half a cup of
> vinegar to the pot.   You can simmer the eggs with the
color
> or cook them
> and let them sit in the cool water. (You can put a leaf,
> flower, papercut
> against the shell and wrap it tightly with a piece of
nylon
> stocking to hold
> it in position.  This makes a pretty decoration. Just make
> sure the plant
> pieces are edible.  Don't poison yourself.)
>    I took a class on cooking for children.  During the
class we had a
> special unit on Easter egg dying naturally.  You can color
> them with carots,
> beets, etc. too. There were a list of veggies and these
were on it. No
> matter which veggie you used, it pretty much works the
same way as I
> described above.  If it colors eggs, why wouldn't it work
for
> your fabric?
>
>
> >
> >-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <karalee.larsen@usa.net>
> >
> >A friend has had an over abundance of beets grow in her
> garden this year
> >and she has a question. She's heard that beets were used
for
> dying. If that
> >is true, where would we look for information on mordants,
> and all the other
> >stuff needed to dye and fix a peice of cloth?
> >
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
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>


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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 07:41:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

There is a tradition in Ireland of using jeweled clasps to
hold the front of a dress closed.  In the 18th century, you
can ID an Irish woman compared to an English woman by this.
It was an old, old custom at the time.  How did the claps
fasten?  I don't know, but am eager to find out.  There are
so many in portraits, that there must be some in Irish
museums. Sets of them were rather Renaissance in appearance
in the 18th Century, and commonly passed down from relative
to relative, surviving generations.  Mairead Dunleavy
reports lots of self-fabric covered buttons on wool garments
in Irish history, and decoratively used where buttons are
not needed, like fron wrist to shoulder on the back of a
man's coat sleeve, etc.  I can't remember what she says
about the Shinrone gown on this point, and the book went
back to ILL long time ago.  I wouldn't rule out buttons on
the Shinrone dress, myself.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Merouda the True of Bornover
> Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 6:16 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
>
>
>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
> >         I've had the buttons for a long time, and this
> seemed a good way to use
> > them.  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand,
sorry!)
> that buttons
> > were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that
period.
>
> But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.  But you've got lots
of
> great ideas.  Just
> remember that just because something is period in one
place
> at one time doesn't
> make it period in another place even in the same time.  I
> thought the idea about
> sewing little metal rings next to the buttons to be
> particularly inspired.
>
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 06:24:36 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 07:32:34 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

In Janet Arnold's *Patterns of Fashion 3,* dealing
1550-1660, there's a discussion of lacing and buttons.  The
lacings never go around the button, but through eyelets in
the fabric or itty bitty rings sewn on to the garment.  The
buttons are sewn on in a decorative fashion only, typically
next to each ring, for a very tight spacing, but not always.
I don't have the book at home, but I think this is the
general gist of it.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Doris J Nash
> Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 3:47 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
>
>
>
> -Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
>
> Hello List!
>
> I hope someone has a solution to a problem I'm having.
I'm making a
> version of the Shinrone Gown to wear this weekend and I'm
> using buttons to
> lace up the front of the bodice.  After getting the
2-dozen
> little buggers
> on last night, I discovered that the cording slips off the
> buttons rather
> easily.  The buttons are 3/8" shank buttons in
silver-toned
> metal.  The
> buttons would pull over, and the cord slipped off.  I then
> tried to "crimp"
> the shanks, squeezing gently with pliers.  That helped a
bit,
> but I was
> hoping someone on the list could give me a tip or 3 on the
> subject.  Would
> one type or size of cording work better than another?  Or
is there
> something else I can do to the buttons to make this more
> secure in closing?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions!
> Doris
>
>
>
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_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 08:53:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 10:02:35 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Saffron Shirts
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Mel, the dye used was weld.

Mara, weld is rare in Scotland ,esp the highlands. I canna speak for Eire.

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 08:59:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 09:09:48 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 04:57 PM 9/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
>>> were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.
>>
>>But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.
>
>Why?  
>
>The description of Irish women's dress by  Luke Gernon in the 1620's says: 
>
>. On the forepart of those bodyes they have a sett of broad silver buttons
>of goldsmiths worke sett round about. 
>
>Margo Anderson
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
Yes!  Thank you, Margo!  That was the quotation I read, just couldn't
remember where, only that it was in relation to the Shinrone Gown.

Thanks again!
Doris



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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Cynthia mentioned diamond buttons in "The Three Musketeers". I happened to re-read it in French recently and the term Dumas actually used is 'des ferrets en diamants'. According to my dictionary 'ferrets' are tags for putting on the ends of ribbons or laces. Presumably Buckingham was wearing a knot of ribbons stitched to his doublet with the diamonds on the ends when one was stolen. In English versions the jewels are usually described as buttons or a necklace, to get round the difficulty of literal translation.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> >  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
> >>> were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.
> >>But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.
> >Why?
> >The description of Irish women's dress by  Luke Gernon in the 1620's says:
>
> Yes!  Thank you, Margo!  That was the quotation I read, just couldn't
> remember where, only that it was in relation to the Shinrone Gown.

Really?  Buttons on the Shinrone Gown?  I didn't say buttons weren't on Irish
gowns, just not that I heard on the Shinrone gown.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 11:13:34 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Yes!  Thank you, Margo!  That was the quotation I read, just couldn't
>remember where, only that it was in relation to the Shinrone Gown.

You can find the rest of the quote at:
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/fenians/Shinrone/Shinrone.htm

The description matches the Shinrone gown quite closely, except that the
Shinrone gown lacks any kind of closure or any sign that buttons, lacing
eyes, etc, were ever attached.  Why is a mystery..although I like
Maggirose's theory that the maker got so sick and frustrated with the darn
thing that she wadded it up and threw it in the bog!


Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:25:21 -0500
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From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Button lacing/Shinrone Gown/etc.
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

Hello again!

First, I want to thank everyone for your input on my problem.  I started
thinking, "Where would be the best place to look for little rings--hardware
or craft dept.?  Or, how about hooks?  I could sew them to the underside of
the CF edge and...<slapping hand to forehead!>  or how about EYES!"  So
that's what I did, I used #6 black eyes, which are roughly triangular with
the loops for sewing on, and placed one under each button, so now the
buttons are purely decorative.

As for the Shinrone Gown, no, they didn't use buttons, because there was no
pulling or fabric displacement at the edge.  Actually, I'm not sure they
know how the Shinrone Gown was closed/fastened, but I was using the DeHeere
source as a way to place the buttons in that time and place, as a
possibility for a closure.  I was chuckling to myself last night, as I was
sewing the eyes on, "And I didn't think I had time to do worked eyelets!
Just goes to show you!"  I'm a theatre costumer myself, so my aesthetics
are less strict with regard to authenticity than others'.  I've used
grommets before, but wanted something different on this dress.  (But I am
machine-stitching the hem--sorry!)  :-)

Again, thanks everyone!
Doris


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 11:42:14 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Button lacing/Shinrone Gown/etc.
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:25 AM 09/02/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
>
>Hello again!
>
>First, I want to thank everyone for your input on my problem.  I started
>thinking, "Where would be the best place to look for little rings--hardware
>or craft dept.? 

I just made the bodice to my Flemish gown using Roman shade drapery rings.
I got them at JoAnes's, where they were hidden in the drapery hardware
department.  they're made of brass, about 1/2" in diameter, $2.50 for 40.

I doubled them, sewing two on as one, for extra strength, although that may
not be neccesary.  They look great!



Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 13:17:50 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:27:06 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>Another idea, along the same line with the rings:  If you have >eyelets, 
>you can use shank buttons.  Put a jump/split (like key >rings but small, I 
>can't remember their proper name) through the >shank after inserting the 
>shank in the eyelet. This puts the ring on >the inside of the garment and 
>the button flat on the outside.  You >can then, lace through the rings. 
>(This is a way to cover those >dumb, unperiod grommets too)

OK.  I've been watching this thread really closely, but I still don't 
understand.  Are we talking about making a front closure to a bodice?  If 
so, what method are we using, laces or buttons or both?  Exactly how are the 
buttons supposed to be fastened?

Currently what I see is a bodice that has holes or rings on the front edge 
which are laced with a ribbon.  _Somehow_ the buttons are also attached and 
possibly cover the holes the lace goes through.

Please let me know if I got the clue bus and if not how to get on.  Also, 
pictures are worth... well you know.  I appreciate any clarification on this 
interesting topic.

Allessandre



"Those who give up a little liberty for safety, deserve neither liberty nor 
safety" - Ben Franklin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 13:40:42 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:52:46 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> OK.  I've been watching this thread really closely, but I still don't
> understand.  Are we talking about making a front closure to a bodice?  If
> so, what method are we using, laces or buttons or both?  Exactly how are the
> buttons supposed to be fastened?

You must have missed the first post.  The poster sewed shank buttons to the
front of a bodice in order to lace around the button shank.  It was not
successful.  The rest of the posts have been attempts to find solutions to the
problem.

> Currently what I see is a bodice that has holes or rings on the front edge
> which are laced with a ribbon.  _Somehow_ the buttons are also attached and
> possibly cover the holes the lace goes through.

Sounds like you've got it.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 16:52:03 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: NOW: Recycling clothing 'outgrown'/&c. WAS: EBay  -- ATTN: Grania esp.
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 06:47:19 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

In the Barony (Carolingia) where I live we also have semi-regular meetings
where people will teach everything one needs to know about making garb,
including how to use a sewing machine and look for fabric.  Helping out,
even just attending has taught me a lot.

Kristin Page
>
 Gold Key. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 19:59:31 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: I'm b-a-a-a-ck!
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 18:07:54 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Flame shields up!

No, seriously, guys, I have been away from a computer for almost five months 
now.  Missed you all.  Jason & I are busily working on wonderful fall 
clothes and settling down to domestic life.  The kids are wonderful...Hope 
you all haven't quit talking about corsets...

;-D

Love,
Susannah

Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 20:09:08 1999
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From: "Sharon Kidder" <TheKidders@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 18:11:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Sharon Kidder" <TheKidders@worldnet.att.net>

Has anybody else noticed that Amazon UK is accepting orders for "Fashion in
the Age of the Black Prince" by Stella Mary Newton?  The price is 15.99
pounds.  Are they really going to republish it?  Anybody know anything
further?

Thanks,
Oriana of Myrtlewood (who normally just lurks)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 20:34:15 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Button lacing/Shinrone Gown/etc.
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 21:52:33 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 3 shows tiny rings, say
1/4 inch or less.  They are a jewelry item in craft stores,
less than a dollar for scads, but test strength before
purchasing so they don't deform from the lacings. They also
have to be continuous circles, not with a gap, which will
only open further when stressed. I'm quite sure they were
treated with something to get black and white.  The desired
look was that they not show.

Hope H. Dunlap




> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Doris J Nash
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 12:25 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Button lacing/Shinrone Gown/etc.
>
>
>
> -Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
>
> Hello again!
>
> First, I want to thank everyone for your input on my
problem.
>  I started
> thinking, "Where would be the best place to look for
little
> rings--hardware
> or craft dept.?  Or, how about hooks?  I could sew them to
> the underside of
> the CF edge and...<slapping hand to forehead!>  or how
about
> EYES!"  So
> that's what I did, I used #6 black eyes, which are roughly
> triangular with
> the loops for sewing on, and placed one under each button,
so now the
> buttons are purely decorative.
>
> As for the Shinrone Gown, no, they didn't use buttons,
> because there was no
> pulling or fabric displacement at the edge.  Actually, I'm
> not sure they
> know how the Shinrone Gown was closed/fastened, but I was
> using the DeHeere
> source as a way to place the buttons in that time and
place, as a
> possibility for a closure.  I was chuckling to myself last
> night, as I was
> sewing the eyes on, "And I didn't think I had time to do
> worked eyelets!
> Just goes to show you!"  I'm a theatre costumer myself, so
my
> aesthetics
> are less strict with regard to authenticity than others'.
I've used
> grommets before, but wanted something different on this
> dress.  (But I am
> machine-stitching the hem--sorry!)  :-)
>
> Again, thanks everyone!
> Doris
>
>
>
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_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 21:51:25 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Yes, it's true.  Green Duck Designs also says it will be out this month.

> Has anybody else noticed that Amazon UK is accepting orders for "Fashion in
> the Age of the Black Prince" by Stella Mary Newton?  The price is 15.99
> pounds.  Are they really going to republish it?  Anybody know anything
> further?

--
 You need height to prove that you have Leadership; you need money to
 communicate your views to the voters by means of TV commercials that
 have the subtlety of a Teletubbies episode, but less intellectual content.
-- Dave Barry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 21:03:40 1999
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	 Thu, 2 Sep 1999 19:13:28 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Saffron Shirts
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 22:21:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

I've read that the saffron color could have been obtained
from lichens and other plants in Ireland and Scotland.
Can't be specific on a source book, however, or more
specific about the actual variety of plant.  Do yellow
lichens produce yellow leines?

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Melanie Wilson
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 10:03 AM
> To: INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Saffron Shirts
>
>
>
> -Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
> >Mel, the dye used was weld.
>
> Mara, weld is rare in Scotland ,esp the highlands. I canna
> speak for Eire.
>
> Mel
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 21:18:29 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I've read that the saffron color could have been obtained
> from lichens and other plants in Ireland and Scotland.
> Can't be specific on a source book, however, or more
> specific about the actual variety of plant.  Do yellow
> lichens produce yellow leines?

While weld was not grown in Scotland, it was available as a 
commercial dyestuff, as was indigo (which some people thought was a 
mineral because it came in lump form. It's a semitropical plant so 
there's no way it would have grown in Scotland.)

There are a number of dyestuffs available in Scotland for dyeing. 
Alder, ash, bearberry, birch, bog myrtle, broom, corn marigold, cow 
parsley, crab apple, Crottle Evernia Prunastri (a lichen), dock, 
elder, heather, knapweed, marsh marigold, marsh woundwort, meadow 
sweet, nettles, Polyganum hydropiper, Polyganum persicaria, poplar, 
ragwort, whin, weld and yarrow are all listed as Scottish traditional 
dyes for yellow according to _Traditional Scottish Dyes_ by Jean 
Fraser (ISBN 0 86241 108 4).

Frankly, I suspect that Broom is the dyestuff used for the "saffron 
shirts." I've used it to make a fast, vibrant yellow (just not quite 
as mellow as the more expensive saffron.) It's relatively common in 
the British Isles (and is quite a weed if you aren't careful!)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 21:33:31 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990903011834.VWK21390@jkidder-home>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 22:42:16 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Yes, it is true.   One of their reprep contacted me yesterday.  It will be
available in the States late September for $35.00.  I think it is being
republished in the UK.

Later... Penny

http://www.costumegallery.com

> Has anybody else noticed that Amazon UK is accepting orders for "Fashion
in
> the Age of the Black Prince" by Stella Mary Newton?  The price is 15.99
> pounds.  Are they really going to republish it?  Anybody know anything
> further?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 22:30:21 1999
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To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Kelly Rinne" <coskel2@yahoo.com>, "Kaye Boyer" <kboyer@dmv.com>
Subject: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an American Industry. 
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 23:38:35 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Earlier today the History Channel had the following program on:

Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an American Industry.

Cloth-making, America's first developed industry, helped weave freedom from
England; now, it's on the economic endangered list with threats from
international competition. Chronicled: U.S. textiles' birth; creation of
Lowell, Massachusetts, our first industrial city; labor unrest; and possible
future.

I watched the show.  It was really good history of the textile industry in
the U.S.  It started out with the first successful textile mill owned by
Samuel Slater.  The museum of the mill located in Rhode Island looked very
impressive.  Then they discussed the Boston Associates who backed the Lowell
Mills.  They discussed and showed models of how the factories were laid out.
Labor issues were discussed including use of children, young women, and
immigrants as workers.  Each job, such as spinners and weavers, were
described and footage was shown.  The development and impact of rayon were
detailed.

Then they discussed the impact of the Burlington Mills in North and South
Carolina on the 20th Century.  My grandmother moved into the city to become
a spinner during 1900 in one of these mills.  I often wondered about the
conditions under which she worked.  I have a written family history letter
from her sister-in-law, who also worked at the same mill, describing the
long hours.

This is part of their "History in the Classroom" series.  Online they have
an overview of the program, with vocabulary words and discussion questions
for the educators to use.

I did see at the end of the show that a video of the show is available for
sale via the History Channel.  So if you are interested in purchasing it, go
to the History Channel's website, http://www.historychannel.com, go to their
store, and type in the keyword "textile".  The cost is $19.95.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 22:40:19 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 22:51:29 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Try using a split ring rather than a jump ring...less likely to lose
lacing that way.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 23:26:21 1999
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Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 23:41:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: costuming giggles
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Just got back from the movie "The 13th Warrior," based on the book "Eaters
of the Dead," a re-telling (with many liberties) of Beowolf.  The armor
was particularly amusing in it's inappropriateness.

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 02:17:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 03:20:15 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Saffron
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>I've read that the saffron color could have been obtained
from lichens and other plants in Ireland and Scotland.
Can't be specific on a source book, however, or more
specific about the actual variety of plant.  Do yellow
lichens produce yellow leines?

Lichens are not my area as they are endangered, but I know opf a few coomon
scottish plants producing yellows, which are used & can be documented for
use, unfortunatly much of the dye lore is by word of mouth so how far back
it goes it debatable, however we do know what grew to a certain extent in a
certain area, from pollen analysis etc

Mel
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an American Industry. 
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> international competition. Chronicled: U.S.
> textiles' birth; creation of
> Lowell, Massachusetts, our first industrial city;
> labor unrest; and possible

Woo-hoo!  I love it when they talk about my city! ;-)

Lowell has some facinating history and loves to share
it... if any of you are ever in the area, the textile
mill is well worth the trip...

Sarah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 08:11:17 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 09:18:05 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an American
 Industry.
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-Poster: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>


I've been to the textile museum in Lowell, and you're right it is
fantastic. I'm currently living in South Carolina in an old textile town
(Formerly home of the Graniteville Company now Avondale). In fact the home
I purchased a couple of years ago is an old company house from the 20's. My
neighbor worked for the company from before WWII until the early 90's and
he bought his home from them for about $2900. Not bad, everything I hear
from him is that it was a pretty good place to work, but the south has such
a history of poverty that I get the impression that he was just thankful to
have a job.


J. Webb


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From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'H-COST'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Venetians/Trunkhose
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>



Does anyone know of something online or have any suggestions on how to make
a set of venetians or trunkhose ?  I need to make a set for an event next
weekend and would like any help/suggestions that you have. I am
approximatley 5'11" and 200 lbs. 

Thanks,

Brad Wilson
Carrollton, GA


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 09:43:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 07:58:57 -0700
From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Boydell and Brewer is re-releasing this title and it can be 
ordered directly from them - $35 US plus postage.   I just 
found out yesterday that it will probably be October or 
November before it is released.  The original publication 
date was supposed to be September.  

Normally, Amazon's books are discounted from the publisher's price, but this time - no discount.

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs
aka Cainder nic Sheanlaoich



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 09:53:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 11:05:09 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an
	AmericanIndustry.
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Hi, All,

The American History Textile Museum moved its fabulous textile collection -- 
both finished goods and equipment to an old mill in Lowell, Massachusetts. 
They began adding costumes to show the complete cycle of cloth. Their second 
floor includes a wonderful exhibit of historic fashions and a loom room with 
the 19th century looms still producing fabric that they sell in their museum 
shop.

Worth a trip if you are on the East Coast. Check February 1999 in Historic 
Fashions of Women & Children calendar for pictures and more information.

Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 10:58:10 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 08:44:54 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Venetians/Trunkhose
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
>
>
>
>Does anyone know of something online or have any suggestions on how to make
>a set of venetians or trunkhose ?  I need to make a set for an event next
>weekend and would like any help/suggestions that you have. I am
>approximatley 5'11" and 200 lbs.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Brad Wilson
>Carrollton, GA

Expand the trunkhose and venetian patterns up for your size in Patterns of
Fashion, 1550-1650 by Janet Arnold.  The venetians are not too complex.  If
you don't have it, ask around, most 16th c re-enactors or costumers have
it...

I find they come out really nice pinked in those nice X patterns all over
if done on a light felted wool flannel worn over a light denim weight
lining.

Good Luck,

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 11:33:21 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, folks, but this lady is on a heavy
deadline ands sounds desperate.  

Michelle:  check your mailbox!  I keep sending you the corset/bodice help,
and it's bouncing back with a "mailbox disk full" message.

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 12:16:06 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:26:12 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Another auction site
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Cc: LIST SCA arts <sca-arts@raven.cc.ukans.edu>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Might be of interest to auction addicts like me ! Anyone know any others ? 

EDEAL.COM, a new, very advanced, person-to-person online auction service
that has the following 11 advantages over the services provided by other
auction websites:

1) Try it for free!  If you don't sell your item, you don't pay a posting
fee.
2) Multiple posting options: open and reserve auctions, as well as our own
InterActive Classified.
3) Free Mac & PC Evaluators: Find out what your computer is worth.
4) Credit Card payment for speedier transactions.
5) Credit Card payment to protect you against fraud.
6) Free image upload to our server (you don't need to host your own web
pages).
7) Automatically copy your personal ratings from any other auction service
when you register.
8) A strong Privacy Policy: Nobody can get your email address.
9) Advanced Parametric Search.
10) Our loyalty program allows you to earn and use ipoints towards rewards
and even shares of edeal.
11) Instant update so you can see your postings immediately.  And more!

We want you to try us out for free. When you register at www.edeal.com, you
will automatically receive 100 ipoints, which can be redeemed for various
rewards or used in special ipoints auctions.


Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 14:45:36 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 15:55:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern Sale
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Just thought I'd let y'all know...I went to Jo-Ann's today, and they're
having a sale on all of their simplicity patterns.  Including the
"Shakespeare in Love" one.  I got two at $1.99 each!

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 16:19:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 17:27:27 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of
	anAmericanIndustry.
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I visited the new home of the American Textile History Museum.  
Interestingly, the building was not a textile mill but rather, I think, one 
that made machinery.  They have a huge amount of stuff that isn't on display. 
 I was very lucky the day I went to encounter a volunteer who took me behind 
the scenes and showed me some of it.  I concur that it is worth a visit.
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 15:24:40 -0700
Subject: H-COST: new email address
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

For those of you who email me off the list I have a new email address
effective immediately.
rlshep@home.com
This is a *cable ready* system and is instaneous.  My old server was always
kicking me off line when I was in the middle of doing research.  This will
not be a problem now.
BUT it was absolute hell getting it set up. And I mean many days of hell and
it not working.  Looking back on it I wonder that I ever managed to go ahead
with it.  But here I am.

~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 16:26:05 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
> 
> Just got back from the movie "The 13th Warrior," based on the book "Eaters
> of the Dead," a re-telling (with many liberties) of Beowolf.  The armor
> was particularly amusing in it's inappropriateness.
> 
> Emma
>
 Excuuuuse meeee :-) While it may have *bits* of Beowolf (pun intended)
it is based on a *true* story. This came up on the very serious,
academic
Medieval middle east list. In the 10th century, the Caliph at Baghdad
sent Ibn Fadlan as an envoy to the Bulgars. In the tradition of many
other Islamic travellers, he wrote it all down. Unfortunately, it
has been translated into every language except English.
  Somehow Crichton got ahold of the basic story and embellished
it (extensively) But he did such a good job, that at least one
scholar thought he had somehow found the missing part of Ibn Fadlan's
MS!!  
  I read Eaters of the Dead years ago and had forgotten it was a
Crichton story. So I'm looking forward to seeing the movie this
weekend. Is it any good at all??

Susan Fatemi
-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 21:01:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 99 02:11:20 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com

> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

>  Excuuuuse meeee :-) While it may have *bits* of Beowolf (pun intended)
> it is based on a *true* story.
    uh, actually it's not based on a *true* story, it's based on a true 
*story*, if you see the difference. Chrichton's _Eater's of the Dead_ is indeed 
a story (that part is true), but from what I've heard, the movie is only 
"based" on it and doesn't follow it very well. However, it's not exactly a 
*true* story. The book was written very well in its attempt to combine just 
enough bits of the *true* Ibn Fadlan account of the Rus with the story of 
Beowulf to make it seem authentic. Yes, it is supposed to be Beowulf - Crichton 
had made a bet whether anyone could write a book based on Beowulf and get it on 
the best sellers list, so he did. The current movie version, "13th Warrior" has 
undergone many test showings and many re-writes, and a few different names 
(like "The Last Viking").

>  This came up on the very serious, academic Medieval middle east list. In the 
> 10th century, the Caliph at Baghdad sent Ibn Fadlan as an envoy to the 
> Bulgars.
    The Rus, they were Swedish. Now he may also have gone to the Bulgars, I 
don't know all his travels, but in this case he is known for his write-up on 
the Rus.

>  In the tradition of many other Islamic travellers, he wrote it all down. 
> Unfortunately, it has been translated into every language except English.
    unfortunately true.

>   Somehow Crichton got ahold of the basic story and embellished
> it (extensively) But he did such a good job, that at least one
> scholar thought he had somehow found the missing part of Ibn Fadlan's
> MS!!  
    well, that's in part because Crichton made that claim.

>   I read Eaters of the Dead years ago and had forgotten it was a
> Crichton story. So I'm looking forward to seeing the movie this
> weekend. Is it any good at all??
    A man from oldnorsenet wrote a review on it that was pretty scathing. He 
mentioned (and here's the costume part of the message!) something about while 
there weren't any horns on the helmets of the good guys (I guess there are on 
the bad guys), he was sure he saw a Roman Gladitorial helmet on one of the 
vikings, as well as a 16th cent Spanish helmet on another! The weapons were 
wrong, the armor was wrong, and they spent most of the movie being drunk, 
inarticulate, and vomiting. If you like *really* schlocky viking movies, and 
Animal House type of humour, you might like the movie. Personally, I'd rather 
sew on a costume and put the money towards fabric.

    -Judy Mitchell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 22:05:15 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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	 <37D0590D.787D@netwiz.net> <M.090399.221120.72@erols.com>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

trekona@erols.com wrote:
> 
...
> enough bits of the *true* Ibn Fadlan account of the Rus with the story of
> Beowulf to make it seem authentic. Yes, it is supposed to be Beowulf - 

Rats. Sounds like they practically ignore the Ibn Fadlan 
connection. Which was the main reason I wanted to see it.
There are so many good stories waiting to be made, why
do they waste gazillions of $$$ on junk? (rhetorical question)

> inarticulate, and vomiting. If you like *really* schlocky viking movies, and
> Animal House type of humour, you might like the movie. Personally, I'd rather
> sew on a costume and put the money towards fabric.

Not normally, no. But this was going to be a "treat".
Maybe we'll go see 6th Sense, instead.

sigh.

Susan

-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 23:57:08 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 22:09:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Peggy A. Stonnell" <izzie@vcn.bc.ca>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
In-Reply-To: <M.090399.221120.72@erols.com>
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-Poster: "Peggy A. Stonnell" <izzie@vcn.bc.ca>

On Sat, 4 Sep 1999 trekona@erols.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: trekona@erols.com
> 
> > -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> 
> >  Excuuuuse meeee :-) While it may have *bits* of Beowolf (pun intended)
> > it is based on a *true* story.
>     uh, actually it's not based on a *true* story, it's based on a true 
> *story*, if you see the difference. Chrichton's _Eater's of the Dead_ is indeed 
> a story (that part is true), but from what I've heard, the movie is only 
> "based" on it and doesn't follow it very well. However, it's not exactly a 
> *true* story. The book was written very well in its attempt to combine just 
> enough bits of the *true* Ibn Fadlan account of the Rus with the story of 
> Beowulf to make it seem authentic. Yes, it is supposed to be Beowulf - Crichton 
> had made a bet whether anyone could write a book based on Beowulf and get it on 
> the best sellers list, so he did. The current movie version, "13th Warrior" has 
> undergone many test showings and many re-writes, and a few different names 
> (like "The Last Viking").
> 
> >  This came up on the very serious, academic Medieval middle east list. In the 
> > 10th century, the Caliph at Baghdad sent Ibn Fadlan as an envoy to the 
> > Bulgars.
>     The Rus, they were Swedish. Now he may also have gone to the Bulgars, I 
> don't know all his travels, but in this case he is known for his write-up on 
> the Rus.

He was sent to the Bulgars, didn't get there, ran into the Rus on the way.
> 
> >  In the tradition of many other Islamic travellers, he wrote it all down. 
> > Unfortunately, it has been translated into every language except English.
>     unfortunately true.
> 
> >   Somehow Crichton got ahold of the basic story and embellished
> > it (extensively) But he did such a good job, that at least one
> > scholar thought he had somehow found the missing part of Ibn Fadlan's
> > MS!!  
>     well, that's in part because Crichton made that claim.

The latest release of the book (renamed to match the movie for the tie in
sales) has at the very back an article by Crichton explaining why he wrote
the book and where he got things and such.  In that article he says the
first three chapters are from the genuine Ibn Fadlan's account, the
remainder is from Crichton's imagination.

> 
> >   I read Eaters of the Dead years ago and had forgotten it was a
> > Crichton story. So I'm looking forward to seeing the movie this
> > weekend. Is it any good at all??
>     A man from oldnorsenet wrote a review on it that was pretty scathing. He 
> mentioned (and here's the costume part of the message!) something about while 
> there weren't any horns on the helmets of the good guys (I guess there are on 
> the bad guys), he was sure he saw a Roman Gladitorial helmet on one of the 
> vikings, as well as a 16th cent Spanish helmet on another! The weapons were 
> wrong, the armor was wrong, and they spent most of the movie being drunk, 
> inarticulate, and vomiting. If you like *really* schlocky viking movies, and 

Gee, he must have been at a different movie than I was. The only vomiting
was by "Ibn Fadlan" after viewing a particularly gory sight. And they
spent most of the movie travelling or fighting. There was a lot of
drinking implied at the funeral feast but that would be expected.

> Animal House type of humour, you might like the movie. Personally, I'd rather 
> sew on a costume and put the money towards fabric.
> 
>     -Judy Mitchell

Peggy Stonnell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 02:41:38 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 09:55:23 +0200
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern Sale
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909031554480.20611-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
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-Poster: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>

Hi,

What number are the Shakespear in Love one? I have tried I find the new
ones at Simplicitys homepage but failed. Simplicity patterns are not for
sale here in Sweden so I need to know the exact number and than ask someone
to buy them for me.

Which one should I get if I want an Elisabethan dress as good as possible.

Nina in Sweden



At 15:55 1999-09-03 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>Just thought I'd let y'all know...I went to Jo-Ann's today, and they're
>having a sale on all of their simplicity patterns.  Including the
>"Shakespeare in Love" one.  I got two at $1.99 each!
>
>Drea
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>






_____________________________________________________
Nina Marcks v W
Höganäsgatan 1 B
S-753 30 Uppsala

tel +46-(0)18 - 10 12 86
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 06:37:28 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 05:56:19 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Definitely, see Sixth Sense!!!!!

I know that this isn't the 'Movie Review' list, but I can't help myself! 
Sixth Sense is a very (to me, but I am easy) spooky movie that will have
you thinking about it days after.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
> Date: Friday, September 03, 1999 9:13 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> 
> trekona@erols.com wrote:
> > 
> ...
> > enough bits of the *true* Ibn Fadlan account of the Rus with the story
of
> > Beowulf to make it seem authentic. Yes, it is supposed to be Beowulf - 
> 
> Rats. Sounds like they practically ignore the Ibn Fadlan 
> connection. Which was the main reason I wanted to see it.
> There are so many good stories waiting to be made, why
> do they waste gazillions of $$$ on junk? (rhetorical question)
> 
> > inarticulate, and vomiting. If you like *really* schlocky viking
movies, and
> > Animal House type of humour, you might like the movie. Personally, I'd
rather
> > sew on a costume and put the money towards fabric.
> 
> Not normally, no. But this was going to be a "treat".
> Maybe we'll go see 6th Sense, instead.
> 
> sigh.
> 
> Susan
> 
> -- 
> susanf@netwiz.net
> http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 08:18:01 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 09:30:17 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/04/1999 1:11:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
izzie@vcn.bc.ca writes:

<< The latest release of the book (renamed to match the movie for the tie in
 sales) has at the very back an article by Crichton explaining why he wrote
 the book and where he got things and such.  In that article he says the
 first three chapters are from the genuine Ibn Fadlan's account, the
 remainder is from Crichton's imagination.
  >>
Also, when I read the book [years ago] in the into, Crichton relates how the 
book started on a bet he couldn't make Beowulf interesting to a modern 
audience. So it based on both.
Too bad someone didn't bet the film makers they could make it interesting.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 08:37:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 09:49:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern Sale
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/4/99 7:55:36 AM !!!First Boot!!!, nina.marcks@swipnet.se 
writes:

<< Hi,
 
 What number are the Shakespear in Love one? I have tried I find the new
 ones at Simplicitys homepage but failed. Simplicity patterns are not for
 sale here in Sweden so I need to know the exact number and than ask someone
 to buy them for me.
 
 Which one should I get if I want an Elisabethan dress as good as possible.
 
 Nina in Sweden >>


The patern number for the Simplicity Shakespeare in Love Elizabethan dress is 
8881.  My Joanns fabric store didn't even have it put out yet...I went 
digging through boxes in the back to find it <grin> for 1.99 I would do that.

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 08:39:43 1999
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X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 4.5 (0410)
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 09:52:20 -0400
Subject: H-COST: Blade DVD
From: "Leta Hendricks" <hendricks.3@osu.edu>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Leta Hendricks" <hendricks.3@osu.edu>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3019283540_380397_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Howdy!


The new Wesley Snipes "Blade" movie/computer DVD is WONDERFUL!
 
This Warner - New Line Platinum DVD features: the film, audio commentary,
isolated score, alternate film  endings, vampire folklore, film production
highlights, and FOUR! featurettes.  In addition the "Blade" DVD computer
disk features: original screenplay, access to every screen shot within
screenplay, highlights from ComicCon '98, weblinks, and MORE (e.g., costume
design)!!
This marvel (pun intended) of technology is a great information resource for
costume artists, film historians, scholars of popular culture, and chip
heads.

Also, I have my G3 - DVD computer connected to my home entertainment system
--
The digital surround-sound (G3 + stereo sub-woofer) and pix image (G3 + RCA
connection to TV) blows me away.

A must experience

"The software box said Windows '98 or better, ... so I bought a MAC."  from
garage.com.

*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^
Leta Hendricks
Assistant Professor
Head, EHS Systems
EHS Library
The Ohio State University
110 Sullivant Hall
1813 Neil Avenue
Columbus, Ohio  43210

614.292.2075
hendricks.3@osu.edu
http://www.hec.ohio-state.edu/hendrick/index.htm
http://www.lib.ohio-state.edu/OSU_profile/ehsweb/



--MS_Mac_OE_3019283540_380397_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Blade DVD</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT COLOR=3D"#800000"><TT>Howdy!<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
The new Wesley Snipes &quot;<FONT SIZE=3D"5"><I>Blade</I></FONT>&quot; movie/=
computer DVD is WONDERFUL!<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
This Warner - New Line Platinum DVD features: the film, audio commentary, i=
solated score, alternate film &nbsp;endings, vampire folklore, film producti=
on highlights, and FOUR! featurettes. &nbsp;In addition the <I>&quot;Blade</=
I>&quot; DVD computer disk features: original screenplay, access to every sc=
reen shot within screenplay, highlights from ComicCon '98, weblinks, and MOR=
E (e.g., costume design)!!<BR>
This marvel (pun intended) of technology is a great information resource fo=
r costume artists, film historians, scholars of popular culture, and chip he=
ads.<BR>
<BR>
Also, I have my G3 - DVD computer connected to my home entertainment system=
 --<BR>
The digital surround-sound (G3 + stereo sub-woofer) and pix image (G3 + RCA=
 connection to TV) blows me <FONT SIZE=3D"7">away.<BR>
</FONT><BR>
A must experience<BR>
<BR>
&quot;The software box said Windows '98 or better, ... so I bought a MAC.&q=
uot; &nbsp;from garage.com.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
</TT></FONT>*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^<BR>
Leta Hendricks<BR>
Assistant Professor<BR>
Head, EHS Systems<BR>
EHS Library<BR>
The Ohio State University<BR>
110 Sullivant Hall<BR>
1813 Neil Avenue<BR>
Columbus, Ohio &nbsp;43210<BR>
<BR>
614.292.2075<BR>
hendricks.3@osu.edu<BR>
http://www.hec.ohio-state.edu/hendrick/index.htm<BR>
http://www.lib.ohio-state.edu/OSU_profile/ehsweb/<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3019283540_380397_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 08:59:04 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 10:10:46 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/04/1999 9:53:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hendricks.3@osu.edu writes:

<< The new Wesley Snipes "Blade" movie/computer DVD is WONDERFUL! >>

And this [stupid, "not more of this"] movie has WHAT to do with H-costume?

I certainly don't mind talking movies here if there is some costume related 
reason...but Blade??
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 09:35:04 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 10:47:29 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
From: "Leta Hendricks" <hendricks.3@osu.edu>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Leta Hendricks" <hendricks.3@osu.edu>

I, as an African-American, educator, librarian, and technologist, find the
"Blade" DVD  a  valuable resource for studying costume design in modern film
genres, and developing multimedia rom products for teaching and instruction.


"Blade," is one of the first multimedia DVD products.   This DVD multimedia
package offers more than entertainmnet  -- information on film costume
design  and related subjects are presented on the disk.  If this DVD is a
huge commercial success,  more multimedia DVDs  will be developed for
entertainment, education, and (hopefully)  costume study use.


Also, please define <<<And this [stupid, "not more of this"] movie>>>


ASANTE/PEACE

----------
>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
>Date: Sat, Sep 4, 1999, 10:10 AM
>

>
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 09/04/1999 9:53:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> hendricks.3@osu.edu writes:
>
> << The new Wesley Snipes "Blade" movie/computer DVD is WONDERFUL! >>
>
> And this [stupid, "not more of this"] movie has WHAT to do with H-costume?
>
> I certainly don't mind talking movies here if there is some costume related
> reason...but Blade??
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 09:44:09 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 10:58:39 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>I, as an African-American, educator, librarian, and technologist, find the
>"Blade" DVD  a  valuable resource for studying costume design in modern
film
>genres, and developing multimedia rom products for teaching and
instruction.


Cool (I hope more movies put out multimedia DVDs with costume info in the
future), but I suspect the objection is in the fact that "Blade" isn't a
"historical" film, and so really isn't the main interest of this list,
although that could have been stated better.  We do talk about film
costuming a fair bit, but it's almost always in connection to a movie that's
set sometime in the past.

Susan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 10:26:38 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: hair stull
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 10:33:44 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

here is an article about a hairdresser and how she finds things in places
like home depot to fix up long hair!

http://www.sltrib.com/96/FEB/04/tbz/04431571.htm

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 10:57:21 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: three french ladies
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Myself and two friends will be dressing alike at our next 12th night. We are
going to be French. The hoop skirt that once was online that I want to make
is no longer there. The ones we want to make are the side hoops, the ones
that are in two pieces and tied on at the waist.

Does anyone know what I am talking about? I need the periods they were used
and some reference material. I have books but just do not know where to
start as they seem to jump periods quite a bit with the same design. Help!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 11:29:21 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 12:41:43 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
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-Poster: ErrickII@aol.com

In a message dated 9/4/99 10:16:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

> n a message dated 09/04/1999 9:53:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>  hendricks.3@osu.edu writes:
>  
>  << The new Wesley Snipes "Blade" movie/computer DVD is WONDERFUL! >>
>  
>  And this [stupid, "not more of this"] movie has WHAT to do with H-costume?
>  
>  I certainly don't mind talking movies here if there is some costume 
related 
>  reason...but Blade??

Lets see....Movies different flavors for different folks. Hollywood costume 
designer of the world. Movies source of costume design, historical or not. 
New technology, DVD stop action for costume design study. 

I can't sew very well, didn't care for the movie, but I still find this group 
useful and fun.

I see a reasonable reason for that post. But that's only my .02 worth.

Errick
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 14:40:21 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: three french ladies
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/4/1999 09:10:44 Pacific Daylight Time, ches@io.com 
writes:

<< The hoop skirt that once was online that I want to make
 is no longer there. The ones we want to make are the side hoops, the ones
 that are in two pieces and tied on at the waist.>>

+++I'm fairly certain you're speaking of "paniers, or panniers"   They were 
used in 18th century French court dress.  They began as a "stiff underskirt 
fitted with more or less circular (or dome- or cupola-shaped) boned hoops, 
worn under the robe volante.  It was then divided and took the form of oblong 
paniers, spreading the fulness of court gowns on either side of the hips."  
Boucher +++++
 
 Does anyone know what I am talking about? I need the periods they were used
 and some reference material. I have books but just do not know where to
 start as they seem to jump periods quite a bit with the same design. Help! >>

If this is indeed, the hoop skirts of which you speak, then you can find them 
in ref books on 18th century France, for sure.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"As in a theater, the eyes of men, 
after a well-graced actor leaves the stage, 
are idly bent on him that enters next, 
thinking his prattle to be tedious."
Richard II;  V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 14:42:16 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 15:01:13 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint (OT?)
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Is it possible that, if indeed Crichton did base his material at 
least in part on Ibn Fadlan's record (I'm neither saying he did or
did not - I haven't studied it in any depth), and the movie is then
based, in part, on that book, the perceptions of the Rus are not 
intended to portray an accurate perception of the Rus, but rather a
(at least) third hand interpretation from a "civilized" Moslem dealing
with strange barbarians?  Is it not surprising then that the details
are flagrantly wrong (after all, why shouldn't they be)?

Personally, I think that expecting "accuracy" in the cinema is like
expecting politicians to be honest (it's not when it happens and should
be encouraged at all costs, but it's a little naive to assume it's the 
standard).  These people are *storytellers*, not historians.  If they 
need to change something to get a particular effect in the story, they 
are going to.

(If anyone objects to these opinions, please discuss it with me off-list)
Marc Carlson
marc-carlson@utulsa.edu

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 19:12:34 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 20:24:53 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: three french ladies
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/4/99 10:11:23 AM Mountain Daylight Time, ches@io.com 
writes:

<< Does anyone know what I am talking about? I need the periods they were used
 and some reference material. I have books but just do not know where to
 start as they seem to jump periods quite a bit with the same design. Help!
  >>
They're called "panniers".  Corsets and Crinolines has a very easy pattern.  
I've always used spring steel to hold them out.  BTW  I am a new subscriber 
to this list.  My name is Cheryl Odom. I am a costume designer with an 
interest in social history and historic garments.  I was on this list several 
years ago and then the address changes.  Just found you again!
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 23:56:04 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/04/1999 10:57:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:

<< "Blade" DVD  a  valuable resource for studying costume design in modern
 film
 >genres, and developing multimedia rom products for teaching and
 instruction.
 
 
 Cool (I hope more movies put out multimedia DVDs with costume info in the
 future), but I suspect the objection is in the fact that "Blade" isn't a
 "historical" film, >>


Hmmmm
I simply just don't remember anything in the film "Blade" that was definitive 
or even innovative or original for that matter. I found it purely imitative 
....a bunch of bites from other "vampires among us"/ "tough guys in leather" 
film. Films like "Blade Runner" [ironic, huh?] or "Dark City" are more 
instructive as far as costume design....for dark futuristic films... than 
"Blade". [imho, of course] How about "Brazil"? Ok...all three have historical 
"roots" I suppose. How about "5th Element" or "The Cook, The Thief, His Wife 
& Her Lover" for contemporary designs? I just don't see "Blade" as 
informative costume wise as these others.
If it's the "behind the scenes" feature of the DVD that appeals to you, be 
warned...they're not so very accurate and are conceived as commercials for 
the film.

But, please, don't be upset just because I didn't like "Blade".
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 23:57:20 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/04/1999 12:43:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ErrickII@aol.com writes:

<< 
 Lets see...Movies different flavors for different folks. Hollywood costume 
 designer of the world. Movies source of costume design, historical or not. 
 New technology, DVD stop action for costume design study. 
 
 I can't sew very well, didn't care for the movie, but I still find this 
group 
 useful and fun.
 
 I see a reasonable reason for that post. But that's only my .02 worth.
  >>

All this I can agree with.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 09:37:43 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: 18th c. quilted petticoats
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 1999 07:49:33 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I want to make one of these.  I have a really nice rosy taupe glazed cotton 
that would be nice for the outer shell, and plan to underline it with 
lightweight wool.  I only know a couple of people who have actually made 
quilted petticoats, and only one who did it entirely by hand.  Of course, 
now I have lost contact with all of these people so I can't go back and ask 
them for pointers.  I remember the one who did it by hand started out with 
wide spaces between the quilting so she could start wearing it, and as she 
had time, would sit down and keep quilting more bands and rows closer 
together so eventually it was quite closely patterned.  When I saw it, it 
was gorgeous and she only had a portion of the back (under her outer gown, 
and not seen) to finish.
I have not had the opportunity to examine an original, and would like to 
know if it would be more advisable to leave the woolen underlining as is or 
actually sandwich it between the outer shell and an inner lining of glazed 
linen.  Anyone have any input?

Regards,
Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 10:07:14 1999
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Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 11:19:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 18th c. quilted petticoats
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 9/5/99 10:52:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
oh_susannah@hotmail.com writes:

<< I have not had the opportunity to examine an original, and would like to 
 know if it would be more advisable to leave the woolen underlining as is or 
 actually sandwich it between the outer shell and an inner lining of glazed 
 linen. >>

Susannah,

18th century quilted petticoats had 3 layers just like quilts as the batting 
was not as stable as today's battings can be. On the originals, the outer 
fabric ranged from china silk (did a reproduction of this one from the 
Colonial Williamsburg collection) to callimanco (modern polished cottons are 
a good imitation of this 18th century glazed wool) to wool satin. The batting 
was fairly thin and the backings were often shalloon (cheap glazed linen used 
for linings) or other cheaper fabrics with loose weave. 

Try a sample of the polished cotton to see that you can actually quilt 
through it -- some have such a high finish that it is difficult to get the 
needle through it! 

As to size, there was generally 4x waist measurement in petticoats. (If waist 
is 25", there is 100" in the skirt.) To minimize the bulk around the waist, 
some originals have an unquilted area of about 3" from the waistband.

Have fun -- it's a great project.

Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 12:13:01 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Michelle & Elizabethan corsets
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 10:32:15 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I have been using  Friendly email.  I have had problems with them.  I can't
view any attachments. When I have used the system on-line I get booted out
while trying to compose messages, etc.   I always download to my computer
using the Express so the problems in the past hadn't bothered me. I  just
avoided them. This, however is a big problem. I had checked my mail 3 times
in 24 hours, waiting for her response to my cry for help. At one point I had
25 emails.  It was by no means full.
    Can someone please refer me to an email server that works?!?
           Michelle

->-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, folks, but this lady is on a heavy
>deadline ands sounds desperate.
>
>Michelle:  check your mailbox!  I keep sending you the corset/bodice help,
>and it's bouncing back with a "mailbox disk full" message.
>
>Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 15:18:37 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: New and Improved website
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 13:31:49 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I am pleased to announce that I have FINALLY gotten around to revamping my
website.  It is up and running (except for a few "under construction" parts)
and I have actually started working on my "jumpdress" again.  You can see
updates of this at:

http://www.softcom.net/users/unicorn/jmpdress.htm

My website including "Gallery of Garb" and "How to Make A Victorian Corset"
is at:

http://www.softcom.net/users/unicorn/index.html


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 15:29:55 1999
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Okay, so it's never going to be finished to my satisfaction, but I couldn't 
stand not sharing any longer, particularly after spending some time drooling 
at the goodies on Margo's site.  Huzzah to her!

Let me know if any links are broken or something really grabs you either way.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Let me take you a buttonhole lower."
Love's Labours Lost, V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 15:31:37 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Sep 1999 13:44:02 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Hearsay and other tripe
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Perhaps some of you have seen a newspaper writeup about an event at which
you were present, or that you know about from the inside, and you realize
how distorted and downright untrue the news coverage is.  It's also that
inaccurate on the subjects you don't know about, of course, but that is
harder to recognize.

That's how I feel about the recent posts on 13th Warrior.  Little or no
substance, lots of irrelevant slander.  I don't really care what anyone
says about a movie (since I haven't worked on any myself) but the comments
about this film make me question a lot of the other things I read on this
list.  If someone who hasn't even seen the movie feels comfortable
reporting it as drunken, vomiting Viking schlock, then I really don't want
to waste my attention on that person's comments about historical costuming!  

I see this kind of film as a great conversation-maker among costumers.
(Extra points to everyone who recognized the gladiator's helmet!)  Sorting
out the silly bits (like plate armor) from the reasonable pieces is a good
exercise to hone our own memories and skills.  When inappropriate pieces
are used in a movie like Elizabeth R, it's quite different from a
hodgepodge of armor pieces used in what is clearly a fantasy movie.  (And
oh, don't I wish they'd had a continuity person in 13th Warrior!  That sort
of inaccuracy is even harder on me than the Tartars with spears... Spears!
Hah!)  On the other hand, if you didn't like this movie, it's entirely safe
to just shut up about it.  History remains intact and unviolated.

My point is that it's just silly and mean-spirited to pick apart a film for
its historical inaccuracy when there was no historical accuracy intended or
attempted!  However there is a wealth of ideas in it and things that
worked, or almost worked, or didn't work, that were done on a vivid and
intense scale.  There was a particular jewelry piece made by an
acquaintance of mine that I watched for and didn't see until my third
viewing of the film.  By then, believe me, I had made pretty accurate
observations of most of the costuming.  There was a lot of clothing that
worked very well.  Just the fact that people got dirty and stayed dirty was
a massive improvement over much of what we see!

Grumbly today,
Leslie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 17:01:07 1999
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From: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
Subject: H-COST: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

Dear List,

	I've run into a wee bit of a snag I wondered if any of you would be
willing to assist me with? I'm launching into a new project for my
embroidery frame, an early 18th century waistcoat, which will have an
embroidered motif based upon one designed by Charles Germain St. Aubin for
the occassion of the marriage of the Dauphin. It's a very exciting project,
in that the design will all be fronds of gold bullion with delicate sprays
of berries in shaded rose-colours and russets, all of this done on a
gorgeous piece of royal blue saracenet (heavy silk twill) lined with royal
blue striped silk jacquard.

	The embroidery is not my problem. It's the stupid pattern I'm
working with! :-) And here is where I wondered if any you would be able to
shed some light on the subject?

	It is a Harriet's TCS pattern with which I'm working, not the
greatest as far as explanations go. I'm just fiddling up the muslin and lo,
vague instructions and odd bits on the pattern.

	To be specific: I can find no documentation for patch pockets
during that period. I've visited the Museum of Costume's website. Nothing
with patch pockets. I've looked through my limited books. Nothing. Do any
of you have reference for patch pockets during this period?

	My other difficulty is the side seams. Harriet has a small
extension on the lower part of her side seam (which extends properly toward
the back, not directly under the arm) which would lead one to believe this
is perhaps for a miniscule box pleat. However, the extension is so small as
to be useless. No problem. I could draft it larger. But, again, my problem
is lack of documentation. I can find no visible examples of the sideseams
of this style of waistcoat, and so I am unsure about going ahead and making
the pleat.

	As well, I had always been under the assumption, likely mistakenly,
this style of waistcoat had a back vent. Once more it seems all drawings
and photos show the front, but not the sides or backs. Argh. Is this
something any of you would know?

Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage,
period furniture & fine hand-sewn garments ~ e-mail: lgsteph@golden.net  ~
website: http://www.historicmerchants.com/fiverivers


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 20:05:06 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Sep 1999 21:19:51 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Rebecca Voris <rvoris@mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: Rebecca Voris <rvoris@mailandnews.com>

At 09:09 AM 8/26/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Since my favorite fabric merchant wasn't at Pennsic, I'm now looking
>for a source of very cheap 100% cotton in solid basic colors like
>white, red, green, yellow, blue, etc.  I'm used to paying $1-2/yd, but
>that may not be possible.  Any help you can give me would be greatly
>appreciated!

1. Watch the sales at Jo-Anns. They frequently have cotton at $2/yd.

2. Check out SewFisticated Fabrics, in Twin City Plaza near Lechemere.
$2-ish a yard is their regular price for all-cotton solids.

3. Get it wholesale at American Quilting Supply in Pembroke (where the
Waytes get their fabric for the livery). Off-the-bolt solids are in the
$2-ish range, but you must buy at least 10 yards. Or you can buy a bag of
remnants, each one 5-11 yards, six to ten pieces in each bag, at $1.50/yd.
Tell them you're from the Barony of Carolingia. Since we've already bought
from them, you don't have to worry about the initial minimum purchase.
--
Godith Anyon
Carolingia
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: early 18thc waistcoat
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 1999 18:48:23 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Lorina,
First, I must compliment you on your website.  Lovely work!

We, too, having researched extensively, have been unable to find an even 
half-way decent waistcoat pattern available on the market.  This includes 
the JP Ryan pattern, and numerous others.  The shoulders NEVER fit correctly 
(too square) and the bodies are usually MUCH too baggy in the chest & hip 
areas, and do not give the proper 18th century "pigeon-breasted" silhouette, 
having been drafted to fit more of the "modern" square-shouldered figure.  
We therefore, when undertaking to make a mid-18th c. waistcoat, have chosen 
to do one of two things:

1.  use the pattern in Cut of Men's Clothing of a waistcoat worn by Thomas 
Worsley, c. 1770 or so.  This drafts nicely on graph paper to about a modern 
chest 40 (American).

2.  we have drafted smaller and larger sizes, based on a pattern of our own 
design, firmy based on not only the above but on examination of originals.

In no case have we ever seen, or heard of, patch pockets either on the 
inside or outside of any men's waistcoat before 1840, and I am not sure they 
would be appropriate after that, either... that's just the limit of my 
knowledge on the subject.

We also do not exactly follow the pleated section at the (back) side seam 
you referred to.  Usually waistcoats of this period do not have pleats, but 
rather vents, usually one on either side of the center back vent (you are 
correct in your statement that this should be there.  You could easily add 
one.)...  Is it possible that the forepart just overlays the back sections, 
and is not actually pleated?  This would follow most waistcoats of the era 
that we have studied.  I would hesitate to draft any part larger to 
accomodate the alleged pleats unless you are certain that this would have 
been more correct.

I would highly suggest examining the shape of the pattern mentioned above in 
the Cut of Men's Clothes, by Norah Waugh, available on ILL and thru Amazon, 
for a good pattern to start with.  You may either draft it out on graph 
paper, or change Harriet's pattern shapes to coincide with what you see.  
But you seem an intellegent and highly capable person (your lovely 
embroidery projects would certainly bear testament to that!), and I am sure 
you would do fine with a graphed pattern.  The results would really be most 
correct.

Please let me know if I can be of any help.

Regards,
Susannah



>
>-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
>
>Dear List,
>
>	I've run into a wee bit of a snag ... an early 18th century waistcoat, 
>which will have an
>embroidered...
>
>It's the stupid pattern I'm
>working with! :-) And here is where I wondered if any you would be able to
>shed some light on the subject?
>
>	It is a Harriet's TCS pattern... 	To be specific: I can find no 
>documentation for patch pockets
>during that period. Do any
>of you have reference for patch pockets during this period?
>
>	My other difficulty is the side seams. Harriet has a small
>extension on the lower part of her side seam (which extends properly toward
>the back, not directly under the arm) which would lead one to believe this
>is perhaps for a miniscule box pleat. However, the extension is so small as
>to be useless.

>	As well, I had always been under the assumption, likely mistakenly,
>this style of waistcoat had a back vent. Once more it seems all drawings
>and photos show the front, but not the sides or backs. Argh. Is this
>something any of you would know?
>
>Lorina Stephens
>

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 23:17:39 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/05/1999 6:17:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lgsteph@golden.net writes:

<< I can find no documentation for patch pockets
 during that period. >>

I've never seen them in a waistcoat. Indeed, the pocket flap's purpose is to 
cover the pocket "mouth"....the open whole that is ...when I do 
them...straight on top and curved on the bottom.....like a mouth.

<<My other difficulty is the side seams. Harriet has a small
extension on the lower part of her side seam (which extends properly toward
the back, not directly under the arm) which would lead one to believe this
is perhaps for a miniscule box pleat.>>

I've never seen this either. Usually the side seams of the waist coat are 
only sewn to a few inches below the waist....kinda like the coat. Perhaps you 
are to stop there & the little extra is just finished with the lining....like 
a little undrelap or something.

<<As well, I had always been under the assumption, likely mistakenly,
this style of waistcoat had a back vent.>>

Early waistcoats have long backs, as long as the fronts, which can come to 
the knee. As I said above, they are only sewn to a few inches below the 
waist. This is true of a CB seam too. Some waistcoats have backs that are 
shorter than the fronts but I think this is a later development.

Early waistcoats are indeed very like coats. Many have [lace in] sleeves with 
embroidered cuffs a little smaller than the coat cuffs. They are often turned 
up over the coat cuffs. This is often misinterpreted in theatre as a coat 
with cuffs that match the waistcoat...but it's really the cuffs OF the 
waistcoat.

I'm no historian but this has been my experience making 18th cen. men's 
things.
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

I get the digest, so I haven't seen any messages yet since I posted earlier
today.  However, I expect some list members may be justifiably annoyed with
me.  As I look back at what I wrote, what I then thought was a bit grumpy
now appears quite rude.

What I MEANT to say was that hearsay isn't a good basis for conversation,
especially on a list like this which concerns itself with trying to sort
out fact from fiction.  What I DID say was much more direct than that; I
ask the original poster on this topic, particularly, not to take it as a
personal insult.

I really mustn't post when my arthritic hip is screaming loudly at me.

Back to the ibuprofen bottle now,

Leslie


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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Leslie Helms wrote:
> 
...
> That's how I feel about the recent posts on 13th Warrior.  Little or no
> substance, lots of irrelevant slander.  I don't really care what anyone

Well, I went to see it myself with my wannabe film-maker son.
We really enjoyed it! Once you accept it as fantasy, the rest
doesn't matter!

> (Extra points to everyone who recognized the gladiator's helmet!)

Me, me! And conquistador helmet/armor?? Don't know much about
armor. I did groan when I.F. managed to fashion a scimitar out of
a viking blade! Don't know much about Viking clothing either
-- shirts, pants, cloaks looked ok, except for the plaid scarf
on the guy with the Scots accent!

Antonio's outfit was all wrong of course, looked like they
re-cycled Omar Sharif's outfit fror Lawrence of Arabia, or
maybe "the Sheik", i.e. Bedouin. Not 10th c. poet/scholar
urban dweller. 

> of inaccuracy is even harder on me than the Tartars with spears...

Good point. Should've been bows and arrows.

Let's see, what other booboos... I was surprised to learn
that redwoods grow in Scandinavia (kept expecting Ewoks to
pop out of the woods), and at one point I.F. comments on
the long summer evenings, when just a bit earlier, it had
been pouring down rain and seemed cold.

And the gore was not unbearable. Obviously violence was 
necessary, as it was a battle between good and evil!

It was a ripping good, swashbucking yarn and worth
seeing just for fun. 

Susan

(After the movie I went next door to buy 2 of the Queen
Amidala dolls. I didn't even know they were available,
didn't anyone on the list mention them?? Not the $60
"collector's edition", just the regular ones.)

-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Susan Fatemi wrote:

> Antonio's outfit was all wrong of course, looked like they
> re-cycled Omar Sharif's outfit fror Lawrence of Arabia, or
> maybe "the Sheik", i.e. Bedouin. Not 10th c. poet/scholar
> urban dweller.

Forgot to mention, Antonio's shirt had a zillion cute little
buttons on it (nobody was using buttons in the 10th c, right?)
And his jacket looked like late Ottoman, heavily embroidered
and beaded. 
   Still liked it!

Susan  

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Has anyone seen the corset and bodice making videos advertised on this page:
: http://www.augproductions.com

or know who was involved with them? The name given is "Fashions through
History".

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 17:01:40 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13th warrior [OT]
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/06/1999 2:37:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
susanf@netwiz.net writes:

<<  Once you accept it as fantasy, the rest
 doesn't matter! >>

The irony is that one of the book's purposes was to interject reality into 
the myth of Beowulf. Now the film ignores reality & history to make it a 
mythic action flick....and we've come full circle [except Beowulf has more 
value culturally, yes'
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 17:05:39 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: corset and bodice videos
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/06/1999 2:46:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< http://www.augproductions.com >>

Cool! Except I don't like the corset or bodice pictured.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 16:21:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 17:33:59 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13th warrior
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-Poster: ErrickII@aol.com

In a message dated 9/6/99 2:39:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, susanf@netwiz.net 
writes:

> Well, I went to see it myself with my wannabe film-maker son.
>  We really enjoyed it! Once you accept it as fantasy, the rest
>  doesn't matter!
>  
>  > (Extra points to everyone who recognized the gladiator's helmet!)

Point!

Historical not....Fun Yes.

I even enjoyed finding errors.

Errick
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 16:40:08 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

A few weeks ago i finally saw a booklet i'd heard about. It was written by
a (former?) SCA member in the 1980's, IIRC, who criticized many of Arnold's
costume drafts. The book is based on his practical experience, he made
pieces by her directions then by his corrected method. The book includes
extensive commentary, photographs and diagrams. The title is escaping me at
the moment.

I'd really like a copy. But it was one of those self-published,
plastic-spiral bound thingies sold at SCA events. The author lived in St.
Louis MO, i think.

Any hints, clues, copies for sale, possible trades?

Thanks

Lilinah, SCA'ly known as Anahita


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 17:51:40 1999
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From: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

Dear Susannah, et al,

	Many thanks for the information. I've since today found a little
more primary source documentation to support my suspicions and yours, and
spent the day drafting my own pattern and now have the left front
embroidery pattern transfered. I'm so excited I'm twitching, but one needs
be sensible. :-)

	I am indeed allowing the side extension to become a vent. And have
modified for a back vent as well. Found no evidence of patch pockets so
trashed Harriet's concept and went with the welt and flap.

	For any considering sewing patterns, I would hestitate to recommend
the Harriet's long waistcoat pattern. The cover line drawing indicates a
waistcoat c1740, when in fact on the pattern she indicates 1760. Completely
different style. And you've already heard the other problems.

	Like many of you, seems drafting your own is the only way to go.

	However, there are two other long 18th c. waistcoat patterns
available, which are allegedly very good: Tailor's Guide and Pegee of
Williamsburg. I intend working with each before year end in order to attest
to their accuracy when I offer mailorder historical sewing patterns for the
general public.

	Again, many thanks for the assistance.

regards
Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage,
period furniture & fine hand-sewn garments ~ e-mail: lgsteph@golden.net  ~
website: http://www.historicmerchants.com/fiverivers


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 18:53:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 20:04:47 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/06/1999 7:06:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lgsteph@golden.net writes:

<< and went with the welt and flap. >>

Do they do that? I mean what we think of as a conventional welt & flap. On 
18th century things I have always just made the open "mouth" in the front 
pieces, made the flap up as a separate thingie, then stab stitched it over 
mouth. The flap is not set into the top of the mouth, and the mouth does not 
have a welt but is finished with the pocket bag.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 20:00:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Albert and all --

Yes, you are correct, the pocket opening is generally curved opening and the 
pocket flap is attached over the opening, stab stitched to the body of the 
waistcoat. A slight curve to the flap, not stitched straight across is the 
period aesthetics. I am looking at  waistcoat, circa 1700 - 1720 from Royal 
Ontario Museums (featured in January 2000 calendar, Historic Fashions Turning 
the Centuries). Sleeved waistcoat, quilted linen, embrodiered with silk and 
metallic threads, 22 buttons from neck to hem. The side view shows the 
"smiley" pocket flap beautifully. 

Primary sources always help get the details correct...

Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 21:23:47 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 19:36:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: re:cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>

I don't know if they have these stores where you live, but I noticed
Hobby Lobby was advertising 100% cotton broadcloth for $2.25 a yard, in
many colors. They also have the usual patterns, if your local fabric
store happens to be out of stock.
Carol Mitchell
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 23:09:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 00:25:36 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Rebecca Voris <rvoris@mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: Rebecca Voris <rvoris@mailandnews.com>

At 09:19 PM 9/5/99 -0400, I wrote a message in reply to someone I know who
had asked on h-costume about cheap cotton. I distinctly recall checking the
To: field, and seeing that the message was set to go to my friend. I seem
to have neglected to check to CC: field, however, for I see it has ended up
on the list. This would be all right, if somewhat confusing for non-locals,
except I included:

>3. Get it wholesale at American Quilting Supply in Pembroke (where the
>Waytes get their fabric for the livery). Off-the-bolt solids are in the
>$2-ish range, but you must buy at least 10 yards. Or you can buy a bag of
>remnants, each one 5-11 yards, six to ten pieces in each bag, at $1.50/yd.
>Tell them you're from the Barony of Carolingia. Since we've already bought
>from them, you don't have to worry about the initial minimum purchase.

This offer was intended for a private individual, not a general audience.

First, I apologize for my clumsiness in not setting my fields correctly.
Secondly, I apologize if I have confused or misled anyone.
--
Rebecca Voris
Boston, MA
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 02:17:14 1999
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From: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw: Brown donation cloth
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 03:23:44 -0400
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-Poster: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>

Forwarded at the request of the author.  Please respond to her directly.

Thanks,

Joseph Ruckman
Christine L. Malson-Ruckman

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Cathy Johnson <graphicart@epsi.net>
To: <18cWoman@onelist.com>; revlist <revlist@onelist.com>
Sent: Monday, September 06, 1999 8:29 PM
Subject: [Revlist] Brown donation cloth


> From: graphicart@epsi.net (Cathy Johnson)
> 
> Dear esteemed lists,
> 
> Please pardon the cross-posting, but I know there are people on the
> 18th C woman list that are not on RevList.  There are a number of
> references to "brown donation cloth" being, obviously, perhaps, donated
> for trousers/breeches (?) for some of the Highland regiments after a
> period of time in the war.  Does anyone know what that might have been,
> or what the modern equivalent might be?  Linen, wool?  Tow?  Hemp?
> Anyone??
> 
> Thanking you in advance...
> 
> Regards,
> Kate
> graphicart@epsi.net
> Graphics/Fine Arts Press
> Journal of the Middle Waters Frontier
> 
> 
> --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> 
> ONElist:  your connection to people who share your interests.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> RevList - http://www.meridian.com/revlist/

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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: The History of Costume
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


I just bought Carl Koehler (sp?)'s "History of
Costume"... so far I like it, but can someone explain
to me about the diagrams?  What do the numbers stand
for... I assume that they are measurements, but in
what unit, etc?  Please help?

Sarah

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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 11:59:06 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Margo Anderson wrote:

"Has anyone seen the corset and bodice making videos advertised on this
page:
 http://www.augproductions.com"

I have not seen the videos themselves. But judging from the pictures, I
wonder about accuracy. Where are the shoulder straps on the Elizabethan
corset? I have made corsets like the one pictured, but always felt they
were more costume than proper clothing. Has anyone ever found
documentation for a corset/pair of bodies with no straps in the
16th-17th century timeframe? Not too much extant, but before I condemned
the picture for accuracy, I thought to doublecheck my own knowledge
base!

Thanks,

Liz Jones
ljones@us.oracle.com
Maestra Damiana Illaria d'Onde



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 11:56:46 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 10:06:37 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

The Annotated Arnold, but of course can't find my copy.   By (I think)
Howard Trump.
Drafting & Constructing a Simple Doublet & Trunkhose of the Spanish
Renaissance is by RW Trump.  I found my copy of that one.

Gia/Giacinta
-----Original Message-----
From: lilinah@grin.net <lilinah@grin.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, September 06, 1999 2:57 PM
Subject: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...


>
>-Poster: lilinah@grin.net
>
>A few weeks ago i finally saw a booklet i'd heard about. It was written by
>a (former?) SCA member in the 1980's, IIRC, who criticized many of Arnold's
>costume drafts. The book is based on his practical experience, he made
>pieces by her directions then by his corrected method. The book includes
>extensive commentary, photographs and diagrams. The title is escaping me at
>the moment.
>
>I'd really like a copy. But it was one of those self-published,
>plastic-spiral bound thingies sold at SCA events. The author lived in St.
>Louis MO, i think.
>
>Any hints, clues, copies for sale, possible trades?
>
>Thanks
>
>Lilinah, SCA'ly known as Anahita
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 12:03:56 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Ah!

I wrote that I *thought* RW Trump did the Annotated Arnold, and in reading
the Introduction in the "Drafting & ...etc" that he says he wrote it.

BTW, the "Drafting & ...etc" is based upon the Tailors Pattern Book of Juan
de Alcega.

Gia/Giacinta


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 12:22:56 1999
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Could you all send me these titles with isbn numbers please? server hiccup
again, lost your emails, sigh. :(

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 12:53:59 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Videos
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:59 AM 09/07/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>"Has anyone seen the corset and bodice making videos advertised on this
>page:
> http://www.augproductions.com"
>
>I have not seen the videos themselves. But judging from the pictures, I
>wonder about accuracy. Where are the shoulder straps on the Elizabethan
>corset? I have made corsets like the one pictured, but always felt they
>were more costume than proper clothing.

Yes, I wondered about that too.  the strapless corset seems to be based on
the "Elizabethan costume book" whose writers, in a conversation some years
ago, made no bones (pun intended) about the fact that they extrapolated
backwards from the 18th century. 

 I think it's very likely that Elizabethan corsets were probably along the
lines of the one in Janet Arnold:  basically, a heavily boned bodice.  They
are more comfortable and the look better, because the shoulder straps pull
the breasts forward instead on flattening them into the underarm, and the
full back maintains a smoother line, rather than the upper back bulge that a
strapless corset can give.  

What I really don't understand are the strange tab/extensions at the waist,
with square cutouts between them.  Aren't they too widely spaced to perform
the usual function of tabs, i.e., transferring the pressure of the bones
from the waist to the hips? And wouldn't hips with any excess fleash at all
bulge out from between them in a really ugly and uncomfortable way? 

The bodice also seems to be cut much too long along the side seams, and the
pink satin ribbon trim doesn't impress me, either.

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 13:16:32 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Videos
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 18:21:29 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37d8563e.130325681@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

Well, I did some poking about on the site, and they are shown as
having a  'Partners or vendors' relationship with AlterYears.

Going to the AlterYears website further leads me to beleive that these
are video demos of the construction of the AlterYears bodice and
corset patterns/kits.

THey are probably a side business from AlterYears, as thay have no
other products.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 13:20:56 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Videos
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 13:26:42 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Actually this is the corset you can order from Alter Years. Which if you go
to their vendors and partners link you will find there. So that is where
they got it I suspect.
Carol Ross

>Yes, I wondered about that too.  the strapless corset seems to be based on
>the "Elizabethan costume book" whose writers, in a conversation some years
>ago, made no bones (pun intended) about the fact that they extrapolated
>backwards from the 18th century.
>
> I think it's very likely that Elizabethan corsets were probably along the
>lines of the one in Janet Arnold:  basically, a heavily boned bodice.  They
>are more comfortable and the look better, because the shoulder straps pull
>the breasts forward instead on flattening them into the underarm, and the
>full back maintains a smoother line, rather than the upper back bulge that
a
>strapless corset can give.
>
>What I really don't understand are the strange tab/extensions at the waist,
>with square cutouts between them.  Aren't they too widely spaced to perform
>the usual function of tabs, i.e., transferring the pressure of the bones
>from the waist to the hips? And wouldn't hips with any excess fleash at all
>bulge out from between them in a really ugly and uncomfortable way?
>
>The bodice also seems to be cut much too long along the side seams, and the
>pink satin ribbon trim doesn't impress me, either.
>
>Margo Anderson
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: victorian manners book
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young girls
about victorian manners?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:03:53 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9909071440040.32411-100000@eris.io.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 16:14:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 3:40 PM
> -Poster: ches@io.com
>
> Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young girls
> about victorian manners?
>
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
>

While not specifically for children "The Essential Handbook of Victorian
Etiquette" by Thomas Hill is a decent guide to the manners and mores of the
time but if you're looking for something more fun and appealing to a little
one (about ages 6 - 10 or so) "What Do You Say, Dear?"  and "What Do You Do,
Dear" by Sesyle Joslin, with illustrations by Maurice Sendak, are absolutely
adorable.  They're not "Victorian" per se, but they manage to include most
of the proper behaviours of the time.

Hope these help!
Kerrie    :-D

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:20:36 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 13:39:35 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I saw a cute book. It was small and inexpensive. (only 10 dollars or so)  I
think it was called, "The Essential Guide to Victorian Etiquette."   It was
supposed to have been highlights of a book printed back then.
  Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 12:43 PM
Subject: H-COST: victorian manners book


>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young girls
>about victorian manners?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:24:13 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 16:35:46 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

Oops!
Please forgive the multiple messages here.  After I hit 'send' I realised
that I should have mentioned one caveat in my endorsement of "What Do You
Say, Dear?".

The book was originally published sometime in the 1950's when "Cowboys and
Indians" was a common childhood game and toy guns didn't carry the deadly
implications that they do in these sad modern times.  The manners are
introduced to children through Sendak's fanciful drawings of imaginative
situations in which a child might find herself.  Most are charmingly silly,
but I do recall one that bothered me enough to omit it when I read the book
to my little boy.  In it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
"Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  Much too graphic for me
I'm afraid.  Luckily I don't remember any similar offenses in the sequel
book, or any more than that one in the original.

Off again!
Kerrie
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 4:14 PM

> -Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 3:40 PM
> > -Poster: ches@io.com
> >
> > Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young
girls
> > about victorian manners?
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > F. Havas
> >
>
> While not specifically for children "The Essential Handbook of Victorian
> Etiquette" by Thomas Hill is a decent guide to the manners and mores of
the
> time but if you're looking for something more fun and appealing to a
little
> one (about ages 6 - 10 or so) "What Do You Say, Dear?"  and "What Do You
Do,
> Dear" by Sesyle Joslin, with illustrations by Maurice Sendak, are
absolutely
> adorable.  They're not "Victorian" per se, but they manage to include most
> of the proper behaviours of the time.
>
> Hope these help!
> Kerrie    :-D
>


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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:32:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 21:43:39 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

I have one which is for women and girls of marriagable age, rather than
young girls, but might help

It's a reproduction of "Manners for women" by Mrs Humphry, a general
manual for women, not only what we think of as manners, but also what to
wear, how to arrange a dinner party, etiquette when bicycling, how to
laugh prettily, all those things you need to know.  It is very late 19th
century, but it is just Victorian - there are various references to the
Queen, and the menu from the Duchess of York's wedding breakfast, so
maybe you can date it from that.

This is produced by Pryor Publications, specialist in facsimile
reproductions.  ISBN 0 946014 71 5.  The publishers are at:
75 Dargate Road, Yorkletts, Whitstable, Kent, England, 
tel & fax +44 227 274655

Jean


In message <Pine.LNX.4.10.9909071440040.32411-100000@eris.io.com>,
ches@io.com writes
>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young girls
>about victorian manners?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
 _________________________________________________________________
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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Eleonora of Toledo
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 14:10:59 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BEF93A.CF793880
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http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg


   This dress was a topic of conversation a couple weeks ago on the =
SCA-Garb list.  I asked the list what they thought of the child's =
clothing at her right.  I got no response.  I then forwarded the message =
to H-Cost.  I got no response.  (Probably because of my wacky email =
server...)
    I thought I would try again.  The child seems to be wearing a simple =
tunic over a fancier edged chemise.  What does everyone think of that?
    As parents we may be working to hard to dress out kids.  If someone =
higher born is wearing a tunic, why don't more of us dress our kids this =
way?  It would be a lot easier to accumulate a few things for them to =
wear if it was something easier to make.=20
   MIchelle

------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BEF93A.CF793880
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg">http=
://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg</A><BR></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;<FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; This dress was a topic =
of=20
conversation a couple weeks ago on the SCA-Garb list.&nbsp; I asked the =
list=20
what they thought of the child's clothing at her right.&nbsp; I got no=20
response.&nbsp; I then forwarded the message to H-Cost.&nbsp; I got no=20
response.&nbsp;</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2> (Probably because =
of my wacky=20
email server...)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I thought I would =
try=20
again.&nbsp; The child seems to be wearing a simple tunic over a fancier =
edged=20
chemise.&nbsp; What does everyone think of that?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; As parents we may =
be working=20
to hard to dress out kids.&nbsp; If someone higher born is wearing a =
tunic, why=20
don't more of us dress our kids this way?&nbsp; It would be a lot easier =
to=20
accumulate a few things for them to wear if it was something easier to =
make.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; =
MIchelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BEF93A.CF793880--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:55:28 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw:      Re: Eleonora di Toledo Gown
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 14:14:23 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Here is what I forwarded before...is it formiliar to anyone?  I am wondering
to what extent my email service has failed.

-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle <mandrake@MYPAD.COM>
To: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Date: Friday, August 27, 1999 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: Eleonora di Toledo Gown


>>snip
>>>  This winter I'm hoping to make either a direct "replica" or a gown
>>> "inspired" by the gown worn by Eleonora da Toledo, Grand Duchess of
>>> Tuscany by Bronzino circa 1540s - the portrait can be seen at:
>>> http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg
>
>
>
>
>The child in the picture with Eleonora of Toledo looks to be wearing a
>simple T tunic and chemise with ruffled collar and neck.  (almost looks
like
>a polo shirt! ;)  )  I wanted to see what everyone thought of this.  I have
>learned fairly recently that children, of either sex, wore gowns like young
>ladies until they were of potty training age.  The pictures that I have
seen
>all apeared to be more elaborate and more fitted than this.
>   As fast as these kids grow, we could be doing ourselfs in, by trying to
>keep up with the new costumes.  It would be far easier to have some of
these
>and maybe one elaborate.  With the blend of Engish and Spanish dress, such
>as the partlet, I would think that we would see more of this type of dress.
>  Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wow!
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 14:23:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Ahhh, shucks! Auction is ended but, it never met the reserve.
      I had heard that one of the only costuming rental places here in town
(Fresno, CA) has gone out of business.  I wonder if their stuff will end up
on E Bay too.

>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>I just have to share my awe and jealousy for a
>moment... here I am... supposed to be working, but I
>am playing on e-Bay instead... and I come across a
>company selling their entire costume collection...
>now, it is $200,000 and takes 3500 square feet of
>space, but I thought ya'll might just get the
>amusement out of looking that I did...
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=153740240
>
>Sarah
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 17:19:13 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/07/1999 4:37:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
vjlyons@snip.net writes:

<< n it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
 "Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  >>

Of course the proper Victorian reply is:

"Oh my goodness no! [curtsey] But thank you very much for asking."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 16:08:54 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wow!
In-Reply-To: <019301bef977$2d331720$80a7fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Actually, they are selling the costumes off one at a time from their
website. The Juliet costum for example is going for 250.00, I asked for
elizabethan underpinnings but they either did not understand the question
or they do not have any.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 7 Sep 1999, Michelle wrote:

> Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 14:23:05 -0700
> From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Wow!
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> Ahhh, shucks! Auction is ended but, it never met the reserve.
>       I had heard that one of the only costuming rental places here in town
> (Fresno, CA) has gone out of business.  I wonder if their stuff will end up
> on E Bay too.
> 
> >
> >-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >
> >I just have to share my awe and jealousy for a
> >moment... here I am... supposed to be working, but I
> >am playing on e-Bay instead... and I come across a
> >company selling their entire costume collection...
> >now, it is $200,000 and takes 3500 square feet of
> >space, but I thought ya'll might just get the
> >amusement out of looking that I did...
> >
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=153740240
> >
> >Sarah
> >
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 16:15:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 17:26:45 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

><< n it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
> "Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  >>
>
>Of course the proper Victorian reply is:
>
>"Oh my goodness no! [curtsey] But thank you very much for asking."


<::snort::>  Not fair!  Now I have to wipe Diet Pepsi off my monitor!


Donna
__________________________________________________
Visit my web page!  http://www.dabbler.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 16:49:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 17:58:58 -0400
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: UK - Antique Costume & Textiles Fair
To: all <vintage@indra.com>
Cc: all <COSTUMEUK@onelist.com>, all <Victoriana@onelist.com>,
        all <h-costume@indra.com>, all <h-needlework@Ansteorra.org>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

Hello all

Just to let you know that my next 'Antique Costume & Textiles Fair' is fast
approaching - Sunday 19th September in Manchester UK.

Once again, the Fair is 'sold out', with nearly 80 dealers from all over
the UK, and some from France and Belgium.

Bonhams auctioneers will be giving free textile valuations, and Pat
Earnshaw will be giving free lace valuations.

The Fan Circle International, Slipknot Guild and the Knitting & Crochet
Guild will also have information stands.

Once again - if you can't make it to the Fair, let me know if there is
anything you would like me to look for on your behalf.  If you are planning
to be there - don't forget to stop and say hello!

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 18:06:01 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


>     I thought I would try again.  The child seems to be wearing a
> simple tunic over a fancier edged chemise.  What does everyone think
> of that?

I'm not so certain it's a tunic, although this is not my period.

Next to his hanging hand, the color of the surrounding area changes.  If
the kid had on a loosely fitted doublet over lighter pants, it would
explain the color change.

However, I think drawing conclusions from this picture might be
difficult.  The artist's attention was clearly on Eleonara and her
dress; the child is possibly a symbolic prop "look how motherly she is"
and in any case, it's not too surprising that the minute details of his
costume were not all drawn in (aside from those blackwork edges, which
set off his face and hands.)

cv
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From: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
Subject: H-COST: 18thc waistcoats - Harriet's reply
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

	Many thanks to all of you for the information. I thought you might
be interested to hear what the pattern-maker herself had to say on the
subject. My bits are in brackets.
---------------------------------------------------------------------

 (In your cutting and sewing instructions it
would appear you mean for the pockets to either be patch pockets,
or to be self lined. If it's the former, I can find no documentation to
support patch pockets. If it's the latter, the hand sewing will likely
show very slightly on the outside, or is that not a problem?)

Re: Pockets. My mistake; the pattern should read: (Cut 4). The inside of
the pocket opening is reinforced w/ linen, the opening cut & pockets
attached to the opening/flat edge of pocket. The pockets hang, once the 2
halves are sewn around. Then the flap is sewn on the outside. I have always
lined my waistcoats, so they were never seen. **You could cut the pocket on
a fold/top edge and then sew around the opening like a bound buttonhole or
an 18th C. vest. Not as authentic, though-just a shortcut.

       (My other difficulty is the side seams. There is
a small extension on the lower part of the side seam
which would lead one to believe this is perhaps for a
minuscule box pleat. Is this so, did you intend for it to be
larger, as at the moment it isn't much of a box pleat.)

This a small one-way pleat w/vent; since on this version there wasn't any
back vent or pleat.

 (As well, I had always been under the assumption, likely mistakenly,
this style of waistcoat had a back vent. Once more it seems all historical
drawings and photos available to me show the front, but not the sides or
backs. Argh. Is this something you would know?)

I have found another original that has side & a back opening. No pleats
etc., just a slash.
So, it's really what you're reproducing, as to how you finish it. Early in
the century; more full pleats w/openings. Mid century; less openings & just
plain slashes & that evolved into a combination of the small pleat with or
without all 3 openings. As with all styles, they come & go & then reappear
in a new form. It's up to you to determine which is best for the article
you're making.
---------------------------------------------------
Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage,
period furniture & fine hand-sewn garments ~ e-mail: lgsteph@golden.net  ~
website: http://www.historicmerchants.com/fiverivers


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 18:49:22 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1f487142.2506db51@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 19:59:29 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 5:19 PM
>
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 09/07/1999 4:37:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> vjlyons@snip.net writes:
>
> << n it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
>  "Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  >>
>
> Of course the proper Victorian reply is:
>
> "Oh my goodness no! [curtsey] But thank you very much for asking."
>

<chuckle> Actually...... that's quite close to the suggested reply in the
book. ;-)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 19:10:32 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eleonora of Toledo/child
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 07:14 PM 09/07/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>
>>     I thought I would try again.  The child seems to be wearing a
>> simple tunic over a fancier edged chemise.  What does everyone think
>> of that?
>
>I'm not so certain it's a tunic, although this is not my period.
>
>Next to his hanging hand, the color of the surrounding area changes.  If
>the kid had on a loosely fitted doublet over lighter pants, it would
>explain the color change.

I think it's more likely, given his apparent age, that it's a long coat-like
garment.  Boys were generally not breeched until five years old.  

For unbreeched boys, I generally go either with just a chemise, decorated or
not as station requires, or with a chemise  with a long coat/robe over it
for more warmth or formality. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 19:14:39 1999
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>     http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg
>      This dress was a topic of  conversation a couple weeks ago on the
>SCA-Garb list.  I asked the list  what they thought of the child's
>clothing at her right.  I got no  response.  I then forwarded the message
>to H-Cost.  I got no  response.  (Probably because of my wacky  email
>server...)     I thought I would try  again.  The child seems to be
>wearing a simple tunic over a fancier edged  chemise.  What does everyone
>think of that?  

Michelle, It is really hard to see the details of the child's costume from
that portrait, but from my research on small children's clothing, it is
more typical that children are wearing loose fitting robelike clothing in
the 16th c. Based on some Durer and other artists drawings of the time,
there are plenty of examples that show people dressed up for church, court
and special occasions, while normally dressing in much more functional
clothing. I believe this is true for children as well. There are a number
of German 16th c examples of children in short gowns (short white chemises)
with loose wrap around gowns, waffenrocks, and tunics over the top.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 19:23:22 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> A few weeks ago i finally saw a booklet i'd heard about. It was written by
> a (former?) SCA member in the 1980's, IIRC, who criticized many of Arnold's
> costume drafts. The book is based on his practical experience, he made
> pieces by her directions then by his corrected method. The book includes
> extensive commentary, photographs and diagrams. The title is escaping me at
> the moment.
> 
> I'd really like a copy. But it was one of those self-published,
> plastic-spiral bound thingies sold at SCA events. The author lived in St.
> Louis MO, i think.

It's not in print. It's called The Annotated Arnold  by Robert Trump, 
aka Robert Sartor von Paybas (RSVP). He is one of the top costumers 
at the St. Louis Opera.

He didn't do it originally as a "criticism", so much as a way of 
making the book more useful. (That is until Ms. Arnold blasted him 
after he had sent her a courtesy copy.)

As to getting a copy of it, good luck. You'll probably have to keep 
an eye out or be very lucky with a friend.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

> From:          "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
> To:            <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject:       Re: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...
> Date:          Tue, 7 Sep 1999 10:06:37 -0700
> Reply-to:      h-costume@indra.com

> 
> -Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
> 
> The Annotated Arnold, but of course can't find my copy.   By (I think)
> Howard Trump.
> Drafting & Constructing a Simple Doublet & Trunkhose of the Spanish
> Renaissance is by RW Trump.  I found my copy of that one.
> 
> Gia/Giacinta
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lilinah@grin.net <lilinah@grin.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Monday, September 06, 1999 2:57 PM
> Subject: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...
> 
> 
> >
> >-Poster: lilinah@grin.net
> >
> >A few weeks ago i finally saw a booklet i'd heard about. It was written by
> >a (former?) SCA member in the 1980's, IIRC, who criticized many of Arnold's
> >costume drafts. The book is based on his practical experience, he made
> >pieces by her directions then by his corrected method. The book includes
> >extensive commentary, photographs and diagrams. The title is escaping me at
> >the moment.
> >
> >I'd really like a copy. But it was one of those self-published,
> >plastic-spiral bound thingies sold at SCA events. The author lived in St.
> >Louis MO, i think.
> >
> >Any hints, clues, copies for sale, possible trades?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Lilinah, SCA'ly known as Anahita
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 20:16:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 21:26:19 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eleonora of Toledo
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com

In a message dated 9/7/1999 5:07:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

<<  The child seems to be wearing a simple tunic over a fancier edged 
chemise.  What does everyone think of that? >>

My viewing of the visual clues leads me to conclude it is not a tunic at all.

My speculation is that the child is wearing either a doublet with poofy sort 
of pants, or a gown just like the adult is wearing. It would depend on what 
sex the child is which would apply.

If I'm not mistaken, this hangs in the Detroit Institute of Art, as I seem to 
recall seeing in on a wall there.

Yours,

Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 20:56:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 22:08:31 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 18thc waistcoats - Harriet's reply
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/07/1999 7:32:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lgsteph@golden.net writes:

<< **You could cut the pocket on
 a fold/top edge and then sew around the opening like a bound buttonhole or
 an 18th C. vest. Not as authentic, though-just a shortcut. >>

If you cut the pocket on the fold, why do you then have to buttonhole stitch 
the opening? Can one not match up the place where the mouth should be on the 
folded pocket to where the pocket mouth should be on the fronts, sew them 
right sides together, then cut open the mouth and turn the whole to-be-folded 
pocket to the inside...THEN fold & stitch the pocket bag?

Or have I missed something? Did they not do this in the 18th century? Is this 
a sewing machine technique?
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

>  I think it's very likely that Elizabethan corsets were probably along the
> lines of the one in Janet Arnold:  basically, a heavily boned bodice.  They
> are more comfortable and the look better, because the shoulder straps pull
> the breasts forward instead on flattening them into the underarm, and the
> full back maintains a smoother line, rather than the upper back bulge that a
> strapless corset can give.  

	This addresses the exact thing I'm currently trying to figure out.
How do you keep the shoulder straps hidden when the neckline of the gown
is very wide?  I'm thinking about gowns such as the coral colored Tudor
worn by Elizabeth when she was a teen aged princess or the one in the
Pelican portrait.  When the top edge of the bodice stretches almost from
armpit to armpit was a strapless corset worn?  In those portraits, the
breasts do look more flattened than pulled forward.

lisa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 21:51:56 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 18thc waistcoats - Harriet's reply
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 20:03:23 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 09/07/1999 7:32:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>lgsteph@golden.net writes:
>
><< **You could cut the pocket on
>  a fold/top edge and then sew around the opening like a bound buttonhole 
>or
>  an 18th C. vest. Not as authentic, though-just a shortcut. >>
>
>If you cut the pocket on the fold, why do you then have to buttonhole 
>stitch
>the opening? Can one not match up the place where the mouth should be on 
>the
>folded pocket to where the pocket mouth should be on the fronts, sew them
>right sides together, then cut open the mouth and turn the whole 
>to-be-folded
>pocket to the inside...THEN fold & stitch the pocket bag?
>
>Or have I missed something? Did they not do this in the 18th century? Is 
>this
>a sewing machine technique?

Now I'm getting confused.  Our method, for each pocket, is to cut two 
half-moon-shaped pieces, but deeper than a real half-moon.  Not more than 
about 4" deep, though, for an average waistcoat pocket.  The top curve is 
less deep than the bottom curve, of course.  Looks something like the 
Cheshire cat's (or Garfield's) smile, but broader.  Stitch these two pieces 
together around the bottom curve, and you have a little bag.  Now, fold the 
top edges away from one another, about 1/4" to 3/8" (depending on how easily 
your fabric ravels & how thick it is), so you have a little bag with the top 
edges folded outwards.  Press them with your fingernails.
Slit the place on the waistcoat, from the outside, where your pocket will 
be.  It may be placed underneath an existing pocket flap, or you may sew one 
over it later.  Now, carefully push the edges of the slit to the inside, 
again pressing with your fingernails to make a crease.  If it's wool, you'll 
have to iron it or hold it carefully as you sew.  But, now it is very easy 
to slip the little pocket bag inside this slit, and handsew with tiny 
whipped stitches all around, enclosing the two folded edges against one 
another, inside (bag) to outside (slit body shell fabric).

Voila!  You've made an 18th c. pocket worthy of a museum piece.  This is the 
method we observed on two originals:  one in Charleston, SC and the other in 
the Museum of the Connecticut Historical Society.  So it may or may not have 
been universal... it is not exactly what we moderns think of as a "bound" 
pocket mouth, being that the edges are bound to each other, and not covered 
with a "binding".  The edges of the inside pocket bag may or may not show, 
depending on whether you press them to the complete inside of the pocket 
slit, or leave some of it to the outside.  One of the originals was 
carelessly folded along one edge, probably from having a hand put into it 
from time to time, so that part of the mouth hung inside (more to the 
center) and the ends showed about 1/4" of the pocket bag fabric, looking 
almost like a "bound" pocket mouth.

Just my 2c worth.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 22:54:28 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:28 PM 09/07/1999 -1000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>
>>  I think it's very likely that Elizabethan corsets were probably along the
>> lines of the one in Janet Arnold:  basically, a heavily boned bodice.  They
>> are more comfortable and the look better, because the shoulder straps pull
>> the breasts forward instead on flattening them into the underarm, and the
>> full back maintains a smoother line, rather than the upper back bulge that a
>> strapless corset can give.  
>
>	This addresses the exact thing I'm currently trying to figure out.
>How do you keep the shoulder straps hidden when the neckline of the gown
>is very wide?

By cutting the corset straps the same way, and probably a fraction narrower
than the strap covering them.  

Comparably, some bras meant for wearing with wide or plunging necklines,
such as Frederick's of Hollywood's "Cadillac"  bra, have the straps set to
sit at the very outer edges of the shoulders: right where an armhole seam
goes, as a matter of fact.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 00:11:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 22:21:52 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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CC: SarahToney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: The History of Costume
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Sarah asked:

> I just bought Carl Koehler (sp?)'s "History of Costume"... so far I like it,
> but can someone explain to me about the diagrams?  What do the numbers stand
> for... I assume that they are measurements, but in what unit, etc?  Please
> help?

They are measurements made in centimeters. (Not surprising as Koehler was
German.) If you divide them by 2.5 (or multiply by 5 and divide by 2) you will
get a good approximation of the measurement in inches. I've made up one of the
garments this way and it worked wonderfully.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 00:25:09 1999
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From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Videos
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Where are the shoulder straps on the Elizabethan corset? I have made
>corsets like the one pictured, but always felt they were more costume
>than proper clothing. Has anyone ever found documentation for a
>corset/pair of bodies with no straps in the 16th-17th century timeframe?
>Not too much extant, but before I condemned the picture for accuracy, I
>thought to doublecheck my own knowledge base!

Never.  I've never seen strapless bodices either since the "corset" was
essential a boned bodice for 16th century England.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 01:36:57 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings
>
>	This addresses the exact thing I'm currently trying to figure out.
>How do you keep the shoulder straps hidden when the neckline of the gown
>is very wide?  I'm thinking about gowns such as the coral colored Tudor
>worn by Elizabeth when she was a teen aged princess or the one in the
>Pelican portrait.  When the top edge of the bodice stretches almost from
>armpit to armpit was a strapless corset worn?  In those portraits, the
>breasts do look more flattened than pulled forward.

Actually, I seem to remember a post on H-Cost which suggested attaching the
sleeve to the neckline edge of the strap thereby hiding said strap.  Has
anyone actually tried this?  Also, with some of them I think it's a case of
the stap being hidden by the billament.  Besides which, there doesn't
appear to be much evidence for a "corset" like garment until the second
half of the 16th century.  At that stage I believe they were still
stiffening bodices with buckrahm.  Just my two cents worth.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 07:03:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:14:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: GreyGoose <ggoose@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909071621420.600-100000@uhunix1>
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-Poster: GreyGoose <ggoose@Radix.Net>

Wow! A post I can actually contribute something to <g>. Unlurking with a
vengance.

I reproduced this gown for my daughter for CostumeCon (mumble- too lazy to
go look it up and the ol' brain cells are pretty sluggish this am).  There
was absolutely no way I could have put straps on her corset.  It was
partially
designed to overcome the difficulty of my daughter being terribly
short-waisted while the portrait shows Elizabeth as being somewhat
long-waisted.  It also had to perform some 'flattening' to achieve the
same silhouette - since she had developed more than anticipated by the
time she was 14/15 (similar to Elizabeth's age at the time of the portrait
- about 13).  It turned out pretty nicely, even if I do say to myself, but
the shoulders of the gown were held up by a combination of fortuitous
fitting and force of will. Fit was everything for this gown, and straps on
the corset were not a part of the plan.  I believe there may be a picture
of this on the web somewhere - She was with the son of a friend of mine
who was dressed as Prince Edward - and they went as The Children of Henry
VIII.  Since my experiment held up beautifully, even under a classic
teen-aged sprawl on the ground (she got tired and bored waiting for her
turn to practice on the stage), I would believe that strappless corsets
were 'what was done'.

Respectfully

Joanna Dionne
ggoose@radix.net


On Tue, 7 Sep 1999 lisaleon@hawaii.edu wrote:
<snip> 
> 	This addresses the exact thing I'm currently trying to figure out.
> How do you keep the shoulder straps hidden when the neckline of the gown
> is very wide?  I'm thinking about gowns such as the coral colored Tudor
> worn by Elizabeth when she was a teen aged princess or the one in the
> Pelican portrait.  When the top edge of the bodice stretches almost from
> armpit to armpit was a strapless corset worn?  In those portraits, the
> breasts do look more flattened than pulled forward.
> 
> lisa
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 09:22:23 1999
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From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'H-COST'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: "The Annotated Arnold" by Robert Trump
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>


Does anyone know where I can get a copy of "The Annotated Arnold" by Robert
Trump ?  I cannot find it on amazon or Barnes & Noble....

Brad Wilson


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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com


Hi, All,

I received a question concerning cotton or kid gloves. Susan wants them for 
regency period dress. Can anyone help her with where to purchase. Please 
email her directly at srichards@foleylaw.com.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Sally Queen

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 11:28:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:39:47 -0600 (MDT)
Message-Id: <199909081639.KAA00455@net.indra.com>
From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'H-COST'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>


I just thought I would send this suggestion about how I have created full
size pattern easily and scaled them up. I work as a draftsman/designer, and
have 10 years experience doing CAD (computer aided drafting). I just
finished my first Janet Arnold doublet (I took the peascod one and trimmed
the belly size down to fit my 'natural' padding). I scanned in the pattern
on my scanner, which had to be scanned in two pieces since it only takes
8.5" x 14", not 11" x 17" (which is what the book is). Then, I imported the
b/w drawing into AutoCAD. I then scaled up the scanned picture so that
instead of it being an 11" x 17", it was now a full scale pattern in the
computer. Since it also scaled the lines (turning a single line into about
6" wide), I had to use the cad program and trace over the pattern. Once that
was done, I then deleted the scan (which took up a good bit of
space/memory), and printed it out on a plotter that could plot 36" wide
paper.

For home use with any generic scanner and a normal letter size printer, I
think any generic CAD program would work that could import a picture type
that your scanner is capable of creating. Then you could draw a square box,
like 8.5" x 11", and make a large grid of those boxes. Then, trace the
pattern out, and plot it to the letter size paper and tape it together. I
have done this for a cloak pattern, and it works great. Now, you could
possibly take the drawing to a print/drafting company and have them print it
for maybe $4-7, which gives you an exact pattern blown-up from the drawings.

Just thought I would throw that idea out there and see if anyone has used
this method..

Brad Wilson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 11:44:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 11:56:34 -0500 (CDT)
To: "'H-COST'" <h-costume@indra.com>
cc: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: ches@io.com

you are great! this is what I have been playing with when New comers
arrive at my door step and need patterns to go home with them, but I hand
draw them from a projected image using a flash light and mirrors,
(campfire girl trick). It is not the *exact* pattern that is in the book
cause they want a different sleeve or neck like so it is never the same
twice. That and my hand is not as steady as it used to me. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, Wilson, Brad wrote:

> Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:39:47 -0600 (MDT)
> From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: 'H-COST' <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
> 
> 
> I just thought I would send this suggestion about how I have created full
> size pattern easily and scaled them up. I work as a draftsman/designer, and
> have 10 years experience doing CAD (computer aided drafting). I just
> finished my first Janet Arnold doublet (I took the peascod one and trimmed
> the belly size down to fit my 'natural' padding). I scanned in the pattern
> on my scanner, which had to be scanned in two pieces since it only takes
> 8.5" x 14", not 11" x 17" (which is what the book is). Then, I imported the
> b/w drawing into AutoCAD. I then scaled up the scanned picture so that
> instead of it being an 11" x 17", it was now a full scale pattern in the
> computer. Since it also scaled the lines (turning a single line into about
> 6" wide), I had to use the cad program and trace over the pattern. Once that
> was done, I then deleted the scan (which took up a good bit of
> space/memory), and printed it out on a plotter that could plot 36" wide
> paper.
> 
> For home use with any generic scanner and a normal letter size printer, I
> think any generic CAD program would work that could import a picture type
> that your scanner is capable of creating. Then you could draw a square box,
> like 8.5" x 11", and make a large grid of those boxes. Then, trace the
> pattern out, and plot it to the letter size paper and tape it together. I
> have done this for a cloak pattern, and it works great. Now, you could
> possibly take the drawing to a print/drafting company and have them print it
> for maybe $4-7, which gives you an exact pattern blown-up from the drawings.
> 
> Just thought I would throw that idea out there and see if anyone has used
> this method..
> 
> Brad Wilson
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 11:44:23 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Does anyone have a phone number for the sales department of the Wolf dress
form company?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 11:57:34 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

t I hand
>draw them from a projected image using a flash light and mirrors,
>(campfire girl trick).

Oooh, please explain how to do this!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 12:05:59 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 12:18:37 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
In-Reply-To: <199909081708.KAA01065@zeus.directcon.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

You get a piece of glass, lay the think you want projected on it and turn
on the light source underneath it. Place a mirror at an angle on top of
the whole thing and just move it until it is the size you want it to be.
We did this in campfire to project ghosts on the wall during those stormy
story times in the great hall....;)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:08:34 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
> 
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> t I hand
> >draw them from a projected image using a flash light and mirrors,
> >(campfire girl trick).
> 
> Oooh, please explain how to do this!
> 
> Margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 12:24:59 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Pattern Area URL
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:43:49 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>~Kyna
>"The Pattern Person"
    Please email me with the addy for the pattern site.   I don't seem to
have it anymore.  I sent email and all I get back is the password, etc.  I
have tried emailing again, and I got the same thing: password, etc.   It
doesn't help to have a password for somewhere you don't know how to get to.
        Michelle
   Sorry, now back to H-costume.....

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 12:28:43 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>, <sca-garb@list.uvm.edu>
Subject: H-COST: email problems
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:47:28 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BEF9E7.8B26F3E0
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   I realize that several people have had problems sending me mail.  I =
am looking for a better server.  In the meantime, I have opened a =
temporary account.  If mail bounces, please try sending it to=20
   Mandrake@Ireland.com=20
  =20
    I will do my best to straighten this out (hopefully, before I get =
booted from the list for bounced mail.)   Sorry for all the trouble.
   Michelle

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; I realize that several =
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had problems sending me mail.&nbsp; I am looking for a better =
server.&nbsp; In=20
the meantime, I have opened a temporary account.&nbsp; If mail bounces, =
please=20
try sending it to </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:Mandrake@Ireland.com">Mandrake@Ireland.com</A> =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I will do my best =
to=20
straighten this out (hopefully, before I get booted from the list for =
bounced=20
mail.)&nbsp;&nbsp; Sorry for all the trouble.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BEF9E7.8B26F3E0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 12:53:57 1999
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Message-ID: <023c01befa22$e27b0e20$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001601befa21$b6a230e0$ec96fea9@gunsafes>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Pattern Area URL
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 13:52:13 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

To Michelle and anyone that is interested:

::grins:: ya...I realized after your emails that if it's going to
autorespond that it should be with the User Name, Password *AND* the URL!
I've changed it so that it does just that.

URL to the Pattern Area:
http://UnicornCastle.net/wardrobe/patterns/index.html

The password agreement can be received by sending email to:
password@unicorncastle.net

The message board is fully functional and in an non-password protected area
for convenience:  http://UnicornCastle.net/board/index.html

(FYI  you can type these URLs in any way you want with or without the "www"
and with or with out the Capitol Letters in the domain name.)

~Kyna Grannd
"The Pattern Person"
pattern_person@unicorncastle.net

----
Kyna Grannd
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
http://GranndGarb.com
ICQ#12859312
http://TheMarketSquare.com
COMING SOON!! Ask for details about your selling space now.

----- Original Message -----
From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 1:43 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re: Pattern Area URL


>
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
> >~Kyna
> >"The Pattern Person"
>     Please email me with the addy for the pattern site.   I don't seem to
> have it anymore.  I sent email and all I get back is the password, etc.  I
> have tried emailing again, and I got the same thing: password, etc.   It
> doesn't help to have a password for somewhere you don't know how to get
to.
>         Michelle
>    Sorry, now back to H-costume.....


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 13:58:04 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me how many members this
list has?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 14:47:19 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eleonora of Toledo/child
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 12:58:12 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>>I thought I would try again.  The child seems to be wearing a
>>simple tunic over a fancier edged chemise.  What does everyone think of 
>>that?

>I'm not so certain it's a tunic, although this is not my period.

Hello,

Not that this is the last word by any means, but I recall an article from TI 
regarding the tradition of having children of both sexes wear a long 
tunic/dress until they were more "in control" of their bodily functions.  
(Sort of the 'anti-diaper')  When a boy child could be taught control, he 
was given his first pair of pants.

So it would seem to me, by virtue of the age of the child in the painting, 
that he would be wearing a long tunic or dress.

Allessandre Desiderio
Ansteorra


"Those who give up a little liberty for safety, deserve neither liberty nor 
safety" - Ben Franklin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 15:35:48 1999
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Message-ID: <238pSDA8rs13Iwwr@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:45:48 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
In-Reply-To: <199909081639.KAA00455@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

My husband has used a similar method (though perhaps less expertly) to
scale up the patterns for medieval shoes in the Museum of London book.
He scales it up to somewhere near full size, and then cuts it out and
adjusts the fine detail on his foot, first with the paper and then heavy
fabric, before going into leather.

Jean

In message <199909081639.KAA00455@net.indra.com>, "Wilson, Brad"
<BWilson@gesexpo.com> writes
>
>-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
>
>
>I just thought I would send this suggestion about how I have created full
>size pattern easily and scaled them up. I work as a draftsman/designer, and
>have 10 years experience doing CAD (computer aided drafting). I just
>finished my first Janet Arnold doublet (I took the peascod one and trimmed
>the belly size down to fit my 'natural' padding). I scanned in the pattern
>on my scanner, which had to be scanned in two pieces since it only takes
>8.5" x 14", not 11" x 17" (which is what the book is). Then, I imported the
>b/w drawing into AutoCAD. I then scaled up the scanned picture so that
>instead of it being an 11" x 17", it was now a full scale pattern in the
>computer. Since it also scaled the lines (turning a single line into about
>6" wide), I had to use the cad program and trace over the pattern. Once that
>was done, I then deleted the scan (which took up a good bit of
>space/memory), and printed it out on a plotter that could plot 36" wide
>paper.
>
>For home use with any generic scanner and a normal letter size printer, I
>think any generic CAD program would work that could import a picture type
>that your scanner is capable of creating. Then you could draw a square box,
>like 8.5" x 11", and make a large grid of those boxes. Then, trace the
>pattern out, and plot it to the letter size paper and tape it together. I
>have done this for a cloak pattern, and it works great. Now, you could
>possibly take the drawing to a print/drafting company and have them print it
>for maybe $4-7, which gives you an exact pattern blown-up from the drawings.
>
>Just thought I would throw that idea out there and see if anyone has used
>this method..
>
>Brad Wilson
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 15:43:32 1999
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>


<I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me how many members this
<list has?

	630
				...eliz, list admin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 15:45:26 1999
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From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>


> you are great! this is what I have been playing with when New comers
> arrive at my door step and need patterns to go home with them, but I hand

Another option is if you know a relative who has scanner/computer/plotter
access, they may be able to do it for you. Be warned, when I plotted out the
venetian pattern for the peascod belly out of Janet Arnold's book, it was a
llloooonnggg plot! I did try to arrange the pieces to make the most use of
the paper. It took about 4-5 hours of time to trace it out, but it came our
great... What you can do is plot out the large pattern, keep track of what
you did to 'make it fit' you, then go back in and change the cad drawing to
reflect the changes. Then to scale a drawing up, no matter what size, just
put the new drawing over the old one's pieces and 'adjust it' till it's
about the right size. I haven't tried that one yet, but it sounds like a
good plan.

Brad Wilson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 16:07:41 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 14:24:22 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Organization: Completely Disorganized
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To: h-costume@indra.com
CC: SarahToney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: The History of Costume
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Sarah asked about the numbers in Carl Kohler's "History of Costume".

I had written:

> They are measurements made in centimeters. If you divide them by 2.5
> (or multiply by 5 and divide by 2) you will get a good approximation
> of the measurement in inches.

Obviously, you should multiply by 2 and divide by 5.

(I can do calculus and physics...it's the simple stuff that trips me up.)

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 16:09:25 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Check out wildginger.com for their "symmetry" pattern drafting software
package....it was designed by theatrcial costumers. 

 Part of their copy says: "Theatrical costumers will be interested in
Symmetry's ability to work with 1/8th scale patterns. Eighth scale patterns
may be digitized, saved in Symmetry, and scaled up to full size instantly."

Sounds to me as if they wrote it specifically for working with Janet
Arnold's books.  Now, if I can only figure out a way to afford it...

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 18:03:31 1999
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Date: 	Wed, 8 Sep 1999 13:10:18 -1000
From: lisaleon@hawaii.edu
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SV4.3.96.990908074025.3479A-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
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-Poster: lisaleon@hawaii.edu

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, GreyGoose wrote:
> 
> was absolutely no way I could have put straps on her corset.  It was
> partially designed to overcome the difficulty of my daughter being
> terribly short-waisted while the portrait shows Elizabeth as being somewhat
> long-waisted.  It also had to perform some 'flattening' to achieve the
> same silhouette - since she had developed more than anticipated by the

	This is my problem too, although I'm small busted and don't need
much flattening.  However, the corset dropped my waistline by more than an
inch which helped.

> the shoulders of the gown were held up by a combination of fortuitous
> fitting and force of will. Fit was everything for this gown, and straps on
> the corset were not a part of the plan.  

	The shoulders of my gown stay on and like you, it was a matter of
the bodice fitting well.  I don't think there's any way I could have
gotten corset straps under there either, as the shoulder straps and sleeve
heads were right at the ends of my shoulders.

	I'm going to try and do something along the lines of the gown in
QE's Pelican portrait next and would like to try a corset with straps, as
I need more of my body parts pulled to the front rather than flattened to
the sides.  It appears that the sleeve heads are also right at the end of
the shoulders so I'm wondering how I'm going to hide the straps.  Would a
possible method be to have the backs of the straps start closer to the
center back than usual and have them sort of roll out and around (rather
than right over the top) of the shoulder?  Or maybe on my figure it
wouldn't really make much difference?

	And as an aside, it was somewhat flattering to see an altered
version of my .sig castle show up in someone else's .sig line recently :)
Or if it's just an incredible coincidence, great minds must think alike!

Lisa Leong        *       <|
lisaleon@hawaii.edu	  .^.  *
		     *  .=.=.=.       *
	    *    <|     ^V V V^    <|  
	       \^ ^ ^/   |   |   \^ ^ ^/
  	        |   |^^^^|   |^^^^|   |  
	        | []       []      [] |  
		| ":":":":...:":":":" | 
             ~~~|________[oIo]________|~~~   
            ~~~~~~~    ~~~~~~~~~     ~~~~~~
                   ~~~~~         ~~~~~



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 18:21:07 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 16:34:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
same people (myself included)... not that this is a
bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
be a reason for this, huh? 

*grin*

Sarah


--- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> 
> 
> <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
> how many members this
> <list has?
> 
> 	630
> 				...eliz, list admin
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 18:26:52 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>> the shoulders of the gown were held up by a combination of fortuitous
>> fitting and force of will. Fit was everything for this gown, and straps on
>> the corset were not a part of the plan.  
>
>	The shoulders of my gown stay on and like you, it was a matter of
>the bodice fitting well.  I don't think there's any way I could have
>gotten corset straps under there either, as the shoulder straps and sleeve
>heads were right at the ends of my shoulders.


I don't understand.  If you could make the gown's shoulder straps stay up,
why not a corset's straps as well, especially considering that they pinned
so many garments?  Pin the two layes togehter and they'll behave as one.  


>	I'm going to try and do something along the lines of the gown in
>QE's Pelican portrait next and would like to try a corset with straps, as
>I need more of my body parts pulled to the front rather than flattened to
>the sides.  It appears that the sleeve heads are also right at the end of
>the shoulders so I'm wondering how I'm going to hide the straps.  Would a
>possible method be to have the backs of the straps start closer to the
>center back than usual and have them sort of roll out and around (rather
>than right over the top) of the shoulder?  

Some Victorian corset straps did just this, for wear with  very wide evening
necklines.  

Margo 

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 18:41:31 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 19:53:14 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: dionne <ggoose@Radix.Net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: dionne <ggoose@radix.net>

<Margo wrote>
>
>I don't understand.  If you could make the gown's shoulder straps stay up,
>why not a corset's straps as well, especially considering that they pinned
>so many garments?  Pin the two layes togehter and they'll behave as one.  
>

Well - since the entire gown didn't *need* the corset to have straps to fit
and reproduce the appearance of the portrait, and they would have added
extra bulk that would have been even more uncomfortable (I was dressing a
14 year old after all) I saw no reason to add them in.  Also, the strapless
version allowed more freedom of movement - the corset stayed where it was
around her torso, when straps would have made it ride up as she moved
around (quite vigorously too). It has been a couple of years since I did
the research for this - my main period is Viking but the girl just looked
so *right* for the part.  But what I recall off the top of my head is
various bodies without straps for that time period. Of course, with a
memory like a steel sieve, I may be mistaken.

Joanna Dionne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:03:11 1999
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Message-ID: <2a868db1.2508561c@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 20:15:24 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan & 18th century corsets
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

All this reminds me of those [rare] gowns from about mid 18th century 
....found only in France I think.... that are all but off the shoulder. Where 
do the corset straps go for these lovelies? Of course with straps that tie to 
the bodies at either front or back, it's easy to see how one could get rid of 
them or tuck them away from sight. Perhaps Elizabethan women did the same for 
those special gowns of theirs.
Still some straps can get very narrow...3/4 of an inch. And the tying of them 
makes them adjustable for the longer off the shoulder measurement.

BTW...if you want to see one, both Glenn Close & Swoozie Kurtz have one of 
these off the shoulder gowns in Dangerous Liaisons. The only ones I've ever 
seen on a moving, breathing person.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:10:19 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990908233456.19196.rocketmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 20:20:15 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Are our lurkers introverts????

>From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
<http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate in
their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for thought
and analysis. "

Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!

Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
9/10/99)
http://www.costumegallery.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?


>
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
> WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
> to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
> same people (myself included)... not that this is a
> bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
> be a reason for this, huh?
>
> *grin*
>
> Sarah
>
>
> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> >
> > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> >
> >
> > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
> > how many members this
> > <list has?
> >
> > 630
> > ...eliz, list admin
> >
> >
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> > majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:23:04 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
>Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
>R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>9/10/99)

I'm in...but it's going to be HARD and I can't go cold turkey.  I'll sign
off at midnight, okay?

Margo
>

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 10:47:11 +1000 
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

meep.

No, really. I usually only post when I have something *specific* to say.
That, or time to say it.

Georgia
back to mostly lurking. when I start making my vict. corset, you'll hear
from me all right.

actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy the pattern that Laughing
Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?

http:www.lafnmoon.com (I think... please correct if I'm wrong)
G
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:50:13 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:06:59 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

Hey!  I'm lurking and learning.  I thought I was doing pretty well as I've
only been dabbling in medieval/ren costuming for a couple years, and SCA for
even less time, until I got to this list and found out how much I do not
know.  So I read and learn (and buy the recommended books, of course!)
-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?


>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>Are our lurkers introverts????
>
>From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
><http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
>"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
>right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate in
>their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for thought
>and analysis. "
>
>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
>Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of
you>,
>R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>9/10/99)
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>>
>> WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
>> to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
>> same people (myself included)... not that this is a
>> bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
>> be a reason for this, huh?
>>
>> *grin*
>>
>> Sarah
>>
>>
>> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
>> >
>> >
>> > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
>> > how many members this
>> > <list has?
>> >
>> > 630
>> > ...eliz, list admin
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
>> > majordomo@indra.com
>> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>> >
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:52:24 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:09:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy the pattern that
Laughing
>Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?


I just bought the pattern and am planning on getting around to it soon.
Does anyone have a good source for the busk closure pictured on the pattern
envelope?  Greenberg and Hammer show one in their catalog, but say they have
only 4 hooks.  The one pictured has at least 6 (pattern is not in front of
me at the moment).

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 20:06:18 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Rule of Toyota; Ya want, ya get/Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


Hi

I just joined this list day before yesterday. Haven't really had a chance to 
get acclimated yet but just wanted to let you know I'm here.

Have some good news on the costume book front. Amazon.com now has the new 
Dover editions of Herbert Norris' Costume and Fashion series. Ancient 
Europe, vol 1, and the last to be reprinted will be available in October.

Now back to lurking, until I can think of something else to say. :-)

Lonna
(SKA, Enyd)
______________________________________________________________________
>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 20:20:15 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>Are our lurkers introverts????
>
>From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
><http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
>"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
>right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate in
>their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for thought
>and analysis. "
>
>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
>Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of 
>you>,
>R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>9/10/99)
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>
>
> >
> > -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >
> > WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
> > to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
> > same people (myself included)... not that this is a
> > bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
> > be a reason for this, huh?
> >
> > *grin*
> >
> > Sarah
> >
> >
> > --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> > >
> > >
> > > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
> > > how many members this
> > > <list has?
> > >
> > > 630
> > > ...eliz, list admin
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> > > majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 20:06:25 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 18:17:37 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

What about us semi-introverts?  I really *like* just lurking and getting all
the great emails from you guys...I've learned *so* much!  My posting are
mostly just questions.

*sigh*

Gia/Giacinta
-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?


>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>Are our lurkers introverts????
>
>>From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
><http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
>"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
>right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate in
>their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for thought
>and analysis. "
>
>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
>Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of
you>,
>R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>9/10/99)
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>>
>> WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
>> to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
>> same people (myself included)... not that this is a
>> bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
>> be a reason for this, huh?
>>
>> *grin*
>>
>> Sarah
>>
>>
>> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
>> >
>> >
>> > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
>> > how many members this
>> > <list has?
>> >
>> > 630
>> > ...eliz, list admin
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
>> > majordomo@indra.com
>> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>> >
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 20:15:03 1999
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From: Jujenkai@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:27:16 EDT
Subject: H-COST: questions for a friend
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Jujenkai@aol.com

Hello,
I am trying to help a friend of mine document an article of clothing and I 
was wondering if anyone could help me. I am needing patterns, pictures, 
documentation, and sources for the following 14th to 16th century garb that 
was worn in moorish spain and is from Morocco, Syria, Saudi Arabia. Some of 
these words are interchangeable: Merodan, Woniya, Shillahat, Baalto, gumbaz, 
zibun, sirwaal, syah, kaftan, thawb, jubba, furmilaaya, saaya, damir, cote, 
also formerly called The al ardah al nejdiah.
if someone could help me it would be a BIG help


Respectfully,

Brooks D. Barnes

_____________________________________________________________________

Brooks D. Barnes
506 Greensboro Street
Starkville, Ms 39759
U.S.A. 
Tel (662) 323-5799
e-mail jujenkai@aol.com
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 20:41:03 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:56:05 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

> But what I recall off the top of my head is
>various bodies without straps for that time period. Of course, with a
>memory like a steel sieve, I may be mistaken.


All the bodies I've seen have straps (of course, I haven't seen all the
extant garments...and none of them were Tudor).  Since almost by definition
"a pair of bodies" implies that both "bodice" and "corset" are cut on
similar lines, can we postulate a strapless bodice for the Tudor period to
correlate with a strapless "corset"?  I'm not sure myself.  I'm guessing the
straps are there;  they're just tiny like those on the outer bodice.  And
I'm betting they fit very snugly, using the bias properties; the same thing
goes for the bodice itself--otherwise, you'd have the things drooping off
one's shoulders.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 21:00:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 19:14:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I wasn't trying to be critical... it just hit me as
funny that I was under the impression that there were
40 of us or so on the list... ;-)  Actually, most
lists are like this... and I tend to "lurk" on most of
them.. . just not this one for some reason. ;-)

Sarah


--- Megan McHugh <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> 
> Hey!  I'm lurking and learning.  I thought I was
> doing pretty well as I've
> only been dabbling in medieval/ren costuming for a
> couple years, and SCA for
> even less time, until I got to this list and found
> out how much I do not
> know.  So I read and learn (and buy the recommended
> books, of course!)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Penny Ladnier
> <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 8:24 PM
> Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
> 
> 
> >
> >-Poster: "Penny Ladnier"
> <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> >
> >Are our lurkers introverts????
> >
> >From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
>
><http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
> >"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a
> lot to say given the
> >right forum. They've found that the internet can
> help them communicate in
> >their preferred manner; a written dialogue with
> time to pause for thought
> >and analysis. "
> >
> >Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start
> talking.  Let's make Thursday,
> >9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking
> for ONE day, and let the
> >introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your
> forum!
> >
> >Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with
> Margo, Charlene <both of
> you>,
> >R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea,
> Fran, gee, if I left any
> >of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you
> will hear from me until
> >9/10/99)
> >http://www.costumegallery.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
> >Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
> >
> >
> >>
> >> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking
> need
> >> to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always
> the
> >> same people (myself included)... not that this is
> a
> >> bad thing since if we weren't talking there
> wouldn't
> >> be a reason for this, huh?
> >>
> >> *grin*
> >>
> >> Sarah
> >>
> >>
> >> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone
> tell me
> >> > how many members this
> >> > <list has?
> >> >
> >> > 630
> >> > ...eliz, list admin
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> >> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> >> > majordomo@indra.com
> >> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> __________________________________________________
> >> Do You Yahoo!?
> >> Bid and sell for free at
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
> >> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> >>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 21:19:39 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> 
> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
> 
> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
> 9/10/99)
But the 9/10 is halfway over here. Oh you mean the 10/9...whoops.
*grin* 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 19:32:31 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to be.  I
read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 22:05:59 1999
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From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> I don't understand.  If you could make the gown's shoulder straps stay up,
> why not a corset's straps as well, especially considering that they pinned
> so many garments?  Pin the two layes togehter and they'll behave as one.  

	Err, I don't quite know how to explain this but I'll give it a
try.  The gown wasn't being held up by the straps.  The bust and torso
areas fit well enough to hold the bodice up and the neckline in the back
is high enough that the shoulders won't fall.  The straps lie comfortably
on my shoulders but if I tilt one down the strap will stay up without my
shoulder touching it.

	So I could probably make a corset where the straps could be pinned
and hidden...but I don't know if the straps would actually be supporting
anything.  I'll fiddle with the one I have and see if I can make something
work.  You've given me some ideas.  Thanks!

Lisa Leong        *       <|
lisaleon@hawaii.edu	  .^.  *
		     *  .=.=.=.       *
	    *    <|     ^V V V^    <|  
	       \^ ^ ^/   |   |   \^ ^ ^/
  	        |   |^^^^|   |^^^^|   |  
	        | []       []      [] |  
		| ":":":":...:":":":" | 
             ~~~|________[oIo]________|~~~   
            ~~~~~~~    ~~~~~~~~~     ~~~~~~
                   ~~~~~         ~~~~~


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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 20:50:35 -0700
Subject: H-COST: 9/9/99
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Let the lurkers begin......

Frankly I think I lurk a lot more than I speak, but obviously Penny does not
think so..... so there!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 22:41:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:56:59 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

This was the pattern We used at Costume College July '98.  Also at U.S.
Institute of Theatre Technology's Convention in Long Beach, CA earlier
that summer.  Both teachers thought it was the best for fitting most
people.  I had major surgery after and found it didn't fit me as well
this year when we did "cuirasse bodice" over it.  I never got it
completely made but it has a busk and boning channels.  Being tall I had
to get a longer busk and, if I remember correctly, I found one at
Costume College at either "Enhancements" booth or "Alteryears", most
probably the former.  They have a catalog but I think it's mostly for
period hat supplies.

Janice 
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 21:04:08 PDT
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-Poster: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
> >actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy the pattern that
>Laughing
> >Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?
>
>
>I just bought the pattern and am planning on getting around to it soon.
>Does anyone have a good source for the busk closure pictured on the pattern
>envelope?  Greenberg and Hammer show one in their catalog, but say they 
>have
>only 4 hooks.  The one pictured has at least 6 (pattern is not in front of
>me at the moment).

http://farthingales.on.ca has spoon busks & reg. hook-and-eye type busks. 
They also sell the pattern as a corset kit. I'm considering getting it, but 
it includes the german plastic boning. The lady I emailed said that it was 
much better than Rigilene, but I'm very wary.. Anyone have any experience 
with German plastic stuff?

Kris
delurking... :]

oh, and they hav pics of the corset made up on their site. They're lovely 
patterns. :]
http://farthingales.on.ca/patterns.htm#patterns
for teh exact URL..

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:05:27 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 21:24:18 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

At 07:32 PM 09/08/1999 , you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to be.  I
>read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol

What she said! :->

Svanny


Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
   Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
  kittykat@primenet.com
  ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
  AIM: SvanhildrV 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:12:48 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:16:51 -0500
From: Dianne Kristoff <vestido@mb.sympatico.ca>
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-Poster: Dianne Kristoff <vestido@mb.sympatico.ca>

Such pressure on us lurkers....but a great opportunity to stumble into
the list.

At the tender age of 52 years I have just begun grad school.  My focus
is undergarments of the 18th and 19th century.  At the moment my
knowledge is general but not without background.  Since I love the idea
of fun, I'm hoping to do some specific work on the boudoir of some
dazzling beauties of that time frame.  Even better than fun, I love
suggestions!

Whew....I did it.
Dianne

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:28:39 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
> 9/10/99)

Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing me
from the h-needlework list.  :-)  OK, so I'll wait until after Sep 10th to tell
you about the letter I received from Vienna when I asked about the bliaut.

--Charlene

--
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.


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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990909034710.THJO22396.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 9/9/99
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01BEFA5B.A7860A20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Okay, I confess, I am a lurker.  What now?  Forced to talk, you say.  =
What is this world coming to?

Penny asked if the lurkers were introverts.  I would have to say not =
necessarily.  I am primarily a lurker (with an occasional post) and am =
actually quite the extrovert.  By the time I have hit the keyboard at =
the end of a long day, I am simply too tired to join in the many =
interesting conversations on this list, as well as other lists I lurk.  =
Therefore, I have become perfectly content with reading.  I enjoy the =
questions, the answers, the informative posts, and admittedly even the =
occasional argument.  Hey, Jerry Springer is just too much for me.  I =
will settle with a good costuming debate any day.

Margo mentioned that it would be tough for her not to post for "Lurkers =
Speak Out Day" or whatever this is called.  I am sure that many of us =
lurkers would sooner enjoy reading your posts than trying to come up =
with something to say.  Hang in there, Margo, its just one day.=20

And finally, R.L. Shep wrote:
<<Frankly I think I lurk a lot more than I speak, but obviously Penny =
does not
think so..... so there!

I think Penny may think you speak more than lurk simply because you and =
your site are often mentioned by satisfied costumers and researchers. =
Take it as a compliment.  You are a popular lurker on this list.

Well, I for one, am now returning to my lurking.  Actually I am going to =
bed early...it's only 12:30am.  Yippee!

Happy Lurkers Day and all that other good stuff!!

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!


------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01BEFA5B.A7860A20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Okay, I confess, I am a lurker.&nbsp; What =
now?&nbsp; Forced=20
to talk, you say.&nbsp; What is this world coming to?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Penny asked if the lurkers were introverts.&nbsp; I =
would have=20
to say not necessarily.&nbsp; I am primarily a lurker (with an =
occasional post)=20
and am actually quite the extrovert.&nbsp; By the time I have hit the =
keyboard=20
at the end of a long day, I am simply too tired to join in the many =
interesting=20
conversations on this list, as well as other lists I lurk.&nbsp; =
Therefore, I=20
have become perfectly content with reading.&nbsp; I enjoy the questions, =
the=20
answers, the informative posts, and admittedly even the occasional=20
argument.&nbsp; Hey, Jerry Springer is just too much for me.&nbsp; I =
will settle=20
with a good costuming debate any day.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Margo mentioned that it would be tough for her not =
to post for=20
"Lurkers Speak Out Day" or whatever this is called.&nbsp; I am sure that =
many of=20
us lurkers would sooner enjoy reading your posts than trying to come up =
with=20
something to say.&nbsp; Hang in there, Margo, its just one day. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>And finally, R.L. Shep wrote:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;Frankly I think I lurk a lot more than I =
speak, but=20
obviously Penny does not<BR>think so..... so there!<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I think Penny may think you speak more than lurk =
simply=20
because you and your site are often mentioned by satisfied costumers and =

researchers.&nbsp;Take it as a compliment.&nbsp; You are a popular =
lurker on=20
this list.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Well, I for one, am now returning to my =
lurking.&nbsp;=20
Actually I am going to bed early...it's only 12:30am.&nbsp; =
Yippee!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Happy Lurkers Day and all that other good =
stuff!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01BEFA5B.A7860A20--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:33:32 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 21:46:24 -0700
From: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
Organization: Crone's Sewing Circle and Terrorist Society
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-Poster: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>

I am a costuming newbie though I have been sewing for tens of years. 
I have made simple clothing, but nothing elaborate.  I want to tackle
a tougher project though.  I think I need challenge to go forward.  I
am daunted by those on the list with soooooo much experience.  Half
the time I do not know what they are even talking about, but I look up
the words and am getting better.  

I am learning all the time and have the courage to try a fancy gown,
though still rather a simple one.  I am in the process, taking my
first baby steps.  Alas, I still tear out as much as I sew, but when I
get through removing stitches and re-sewing, it looks great.  I aspire
to doing it once and having it right.  Sigh.  One can dream.  Sounds
like Carol and I are at the same stage.  We can commiserate with one
another.

Marilyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:40:23 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:52:30 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Both I and my wife are on the list.  I tend to lurk since there are
only a few topics I am disposed to share on, and she because she
doesn't have much time to contribute.

Marc (and Jennifer) Carlson
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:44:06 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 00:57:39 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Lurking doesn't mean "not learning"
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

I have "lurked" for about a year on this list, originally to pick up some 
inspiration for when I could start to really learn to sew, instead of jabbing 
at it like I had been. Along with inspiration, I've learned a huge amount 
from all the posters here, especially about methods of experimenting with 
patterns, sources for hard to find supplies, the best costume book reviews 
I've seen, to ALWAYS make a muslin first before cutting good fabric, and even 
how to get the cat smell out of that great chair I got at an auction! 

We may be lurkers, but I bet I'm not the only one with boxes full of 
patterns, shelves full of books, a sketchbook of plans,  drawers full of 
fabric and lots of questions once I get started.....

Watch out, we'll take over the list someday :-)

Perry Morse
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37D734B3.EFDF1AA6@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dressed & out of the closet!
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 01:00:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Oh, I had to comment on this one before I am off to bed.

Dianne wrote:
<<At the tender age of 52 years I have just begun grad school.  My focus
is undergarments of the 18th and 19th century.  At the moment my
knowledge is general but not without background <snip>

Good for you!=20

 That reminds me of an unanswered question that a few of us were =
discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember which one).  The =
question was something to the effect of did women of late 1800's (1880's =
or 90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or leave them out?  One =
poster insisted that they left them out, although I saw a picture of a =
chemise tucked into the drawers in one of my books.  Was it the option =
of the wearer or was there a trend?  The poster with the question wanted =
actual documentation.   I am interested to know the answer to this from =
someone with more expertise on the subject. Don't mean to put you on the =
spot, Dianne.  This question is open to anyone with a comment. =20

Thanks! =20

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

------=_NextPart_000_00B7_01BEFA5E.C0C41BA0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oh, I had to comment on this one before I am off to=20
bed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Dianne wrote:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;At the tender age of 52 years I have just =
begun grad=20
school.&nbsp; My focus<BR>is undergarments of the 18th and 19th =
century.&nbsp;=20
At the moment my<BR>knowledge is general but not without background=20
&lt;snip&gt;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good for you!&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;That reminds me of an unanswered question that =
a few of=20
us were discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember which =
one).&nbsp;=20
The question was something to the effect of did women of late 1800's =
(1880's or=20
90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or leave them out?&nbsp; =
One poster=20
insisted that they left them out, although I saw a picture of&nbsp;a =
chemise=20
tucked into the drawers in one of my books.&nbsp; Was it the option of =
the=20
wearer or was there a trend?&nbsp; The poster with the question wanted =
actual=20
documentation.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am interested to know the answer to =
this from=20
someone with more expertise on the subject. Don't mean to put you on the =
spot,=20
Dianne.&nbsp; This question is open to anyone with a comment.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00B7_01BEFA5E.C0C41BA0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:52:54 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Lurking doesn't mean "not learning"
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/8/1999 21:59:03 Pacific Daylight Time, Morses3@aol.com 
writes:

<< We may be lurkers, but I bet I'm not the only one with boxes full of 
 patterns, shelves full of books, a sketchbook of plans,  drawers full of 
 fabric and lots of questions once I get started.....
 
 Watch out, we'll take over the list someday :-) >>

This is delightful! what a chorus of unheard from souls.... all responding to 
a teensy little challenge to be heard.  Well done, Penny!  Now if we can get 
them to contribute more often. Stories of what you all do with those shelves 
of books, sketchbooks and drawers of fabric

Angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:57:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 00:22:01 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>



I'd like to introduce myself to the list and admit I'm a lurker.  I work
for the national park service as a ranger.  I'm also an artist
(environmental art mostly in oils) and a historic costumer.  I've
designed and made garments for my own business and as a house fashion
designer.  I have a degree in biology and chemistry with a recent
background in microbiology research.  I have two grown boys and a cowboy
husband.  I read most of the list but not all, no extra time.  I do have
a request, does anyone know of someone [N. Texas or Oklahoma] who has an
useable sidesaddle to "loan" for a living history program in December?
Thanks,
Ninya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:58:46 1999
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

> Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing me
> from the h-needlework list.  :-)  OK, so I'll wait until after Sep 10th to tell
> you about the letter I received from Vienna when I asked about the bliaut.

Hey, did it have any info the rest of us could use?  (I don't care if
it's in Italian, I can always get a dictionary :-)

Heather (
on-and-off extro, whether I know anything or not)
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 9 Sep 1999, lynnx wrote:

> 
> -Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
> 
> > Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing me
> > from the h-needlework list.  :-)  OK, so I'll wait until after Sep 10th to tell
> > you about the letter I received from Vienna when I asked about the bliaut.
> 
> Hey, did it have any info the rest of us could use?  (I don't care if
> it's in Italian, I can always get a dictionary :-)
> 
If it came from Vienna wouldn't it be in German?
Claire (always a pedant :-)

PS Never mind extrovert or not - tell us about that letter!!!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Katrina Worley <kworley@ns.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #542
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-Poster: Katrina Worley <kworley@ns.net>

> That reminds me of an unanswered question that a few of us were =
>discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember which one).  The =
>question was something to the effect of did women of late 1800's (1880's =
>or 90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or leave them out?  One =
>poster insisted that they left them out, although I saw a picture of a =
>chemise tucked into the drawers in one of my books.  Was it the option =
>of the wearer or was there a trend?  The poster with the question wanted =
>actual documentation.   I am interested to know the answer to this from =
>someone with more expertise on the subject.

My research indicates that it depends on the relationship between the
length of the chemise and the width legs/length of the crotch on the
drawers.  IOW, early in the century, when the chemises tended to be long
and the drawers narrow, they were generally  worn untucked.  By the end of
the century as the chemises became shorter and the drawers wider with a
longer crotch, they tended to be tucked in.  In between, it depended on
personal preference, and the cut of the individual undergarments.  I'd put
the 1880-90 time period towards the end of the "personal preference" range.
The "combination" undergarment of the turn of the century is  in effect a
"tucked-in" chemise and drawers sewn together into one garment.

Katrina (returning to lurk mode)

Katrina in Loomis, CA
kworley@ns.net
***************
History: what special people were doing in special places at special times;
Anthropology: what everyone else was doing the rest of the time.

						**K. Worley, 1997**


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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 22:33:37 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:24 PM 09/08/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
>What she said! :->
>
>Svanny
        Bless you, Svanny--there do seem to be a fair number of us, don't
there!  Gra/inne / Carol [living in the Province of Golden Rivers, working
in the Shire of Windy Meads, Principality of Cynagua, Kingdom of the
West--but usually encamped with the Shire of Crosston, Principality of the
Mists, &c.]
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 22:38:22 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:28 PM 09/08/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing me
>from the h-needlework list.  :-)  OK, so I'll wait until after Sep 10th to
tell
>you about the letter I received from Vienna when I asked about the bliaut.
>
>--Charlene
               Aah...noooo.   Write it now, and let me be your
guineapig...then you can fwd. it to the list... {grin}  Carol / Gra/inne
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

What they said! :-)


				Arlys


>>           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to
be.  I
>>read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol
>
>What she said! :->
>
>Svanny

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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 01:49:34 -0400
From: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Unlurking for 9-9-99 - long
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@compuserve.com>

I'll have to pop up a day early, because I'll be one of those computer
nerds baby-sitting the computers tomorrow for 9-9-99...  Actualy have a few
things to respond to on the current list anyway.

RE: Steel Busk with more than 4 hooks:  I think it just the length of the
busk that determins how many hooks.  I've got two from AlterYears, the
longer one has 5 hooks.  You can contact them at sales@alteryears.com or
626-585-2994.  (Don't use the older  CompuserServe e-mail address or I'll
just end up forwarding it to the ladies at the store... and that will delay
the order.)

RE: Laughing moon pattern: I've used the instructions to make another
corset, since they're that clear.  (Used it as a base for a straight front
1900 corset.) People who've made that pattern and a number of the other
Victorian corsets, swear by the comfort of the longer Laughing Moon
pattern. It''s a later period than most, too.

Re: Sizing a pattern up from the grids:  Even a perfect enlargement takes a
lot of adjustment.  Our bodies are such differnet sizes than the historical
garments.  I've found it faster to "Sketch" it on gridded pattern paper. 
When I start, I know what size I need for waist, length, etc. and mark out
some of those main points on the big paper.  I do the match on how many
squares I'm using vs. how many the drawing is using.  Get out my
calculated, figgure out the the percentage increase.  (I'm bigger, what can
I say.) Then I sketch in the details counts squares and adding the
percentage.  Sometimes pieces of a regular pattern get added in to fix
curve, figure ease, change necklines, etc.  

After the base sketch, I check it lightly on the body and then start the
muslin process.  If I'm not sure at all, I don't even cut the paper out, I
trace a muslin from it for the areas where I'm not sure the sizing when and
then check the muslins on the body... changes go back to the pattern
piecies.  LARGE ERASER!  When done, ink in the final lines.  Date it and
note the person it was fit on AND their weight and measurements at that
time.  Will save a lot of time later and there's only one big piece of
paper to roll up later.

I've found sizing up from grids better for Hunnisett since she lists the
basic size the grid is for... so the ease is already built in.  Example:
Hunisett's victorina petticoat with circular ruffle:  say the person the
patern being made for is two inches shorter and the waist is 25% more. 
Don't add the number of inches to the waist.  Count how many squares the
top two waist points cover. Make a dot on the paper where the waist should
start.  Make the other dot the number of squares over on the picture grid
PLUS 25 % more squares.  Mark that dot.  Sketch in the same waist line. 
For the hem line, start on the "straight".  Mark the bottom MINUS the two
inches differnet in heigth.  (This is a straight line, the inches=
squares.) Lightly mark where the original "dot" would be for the other
bottom corner.  Now do two bits of math.  Move the dot out 25% more (to
make up for the waist expansion) then calculate how high up to come.  Here
you need to know what percentage the 2" was of the original lengh becuase
this subtraction of length must be a percentage.  Calculate the percentage
and mark your 4th dot!!!  Use a ruler to draw in the line from the waist
and sketch the hem.  (You may need to check the square count to figure out
exactly how to get the clean curve there.)  Basic petticoat is done!  Then
need to adjust the circle ruffle the same way.  That line you drew from
waist to floor in the back adjusted the width of the circle.

OK, are you confused yet. Don't worry.  Just use your high school math. 
Remeber diagramming one square over, two up... put a dot.  It can be done. 
My sister made her first pattern this way crawling around on the grid paper
on the kitchen floor... while training her body for her wedding by wearing
the straight front corset (I was taking about in the 1st part of the
post)... while I was fussing with expanding the details on an Arnold 1901
bodice.  (Seriously.... deadly seriously.)

OK, back into lurk mode.
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 22:51:28 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:46 PM 09/08/1999 -0700, you wrote: -Poster: Marilyn Warren
<jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>  I aspire
>to doing it once and having it right.  Sigh.  One can dream.  Sounds
>like Carol and I are at the same stage.  We can commiserate with one
>another.
          There seem to be a fair number of us out here. By all means, let
us proceed!  
          My next project is an Italian Renaissance 'camisa {spelling?],
undergown, and overgown.  I have med.-dk. blue cotton velveteen [easy to
work with, natural fiber, &c.] for the overgown.  I intend to make the
chemise of the finest linen I can find.  Anyone care to suggest an
appropriate fabric for the undergown and appropriate trim?  I was thinking
possibly of a cream color...maybe brocade?   When did moire became
fashionable--not until much later, did it?  And might be too lightweight?
I live in an area known for getting up to 110 degrees F. in the summer
sometimes [it's now in the 90's daily], and down as far as the 60's-70's
evenings.  Or in the wintertime between [degrees F. again] 40's - freezing.
  For any suggestions, thank you in advance for lending your expertise to
my cause.  -- Carol / Gra/inne
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 00:27:38 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

lol well I really don't fall into the intro/extro catagories. I have just felt so far that I had nothing really worth while to add tot he conversation. I'm fairly new at the actual construction of historic costume. I've been a small time collector/big time admirer since I was 11 or 12. From then on it's been a big part of my life...a main interest if you will.  saw this list and felt that I should join because it would be a wonderful chance to learn. I'm planning on getting married in the not TOO terribly distant future and would love to have a vintage looking dress, what better way to get exactly what I want than to make it myself, right? So I'm here to observe and to learn. I've found a designer in the UK that makes very elaborate dresses (wedding/special ocassion) if I can't manage to make one myself I'll resort back to her I suppose. Her dresses are beautiful but you know there is always one thng about a dress that just doesn't seem right, whether it be colour or fabric, o!
r a button you don't like. For perfection (at least in your own eyes) it's best to do it yourself :) lol then you have noone else to blame. 

Well there, I contributed!

Oh I have a question...
I remember reading in ...Victoria I think it was, that there was a museum in New England ...Rochester (although I can't remember if it was NY or MA)of costume and that they rented some of their dresses for weddings etc. Does anyone know of this museum or if they still do this?

Ginn
---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 


On Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:09:12    The Purple Elephant wrote:
>
>-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
>
>On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
>> 
>> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>> 
>> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
>> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>> 9/10/99)
>But the 9/10 is halfway over here. Oh you mean the 10/9...whoops.
>*grin* 
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
>Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
>and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
>friendly substance.
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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-Poster: "Mary HInton" <mary_hinton@my-deja.com>

Re Tudor stays and the teenager who didn't like the shoulder straps.

I think both N Waugh and Cunnington state that the shoulder straps also serve to narrow the back and expand the chest - this is more than just keeping the stays in place.  I am sure a present day teenager might find this a bit uncomfortable.  I have seen pictures of 18C stays where the shoulder strap goes from the high boned back, forward and down over the shoulder and fastens quite a way back under the arm.  I am not sure if this was to give the wide neckline,  and/or to pull the shoulders back.

---Mary





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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 11:59:51 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Elizabeth Higgins <Lissa@duchess.globalnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Elizabeth Higgins <Lissa@duchess.globalnet.co.uk>

At 20:20 08/09/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Are our lurkers introverts????

<chuckle> In no way am I an introvert! If you said that to any of my
friends they would have a laughing fit. It's just that at the moment 
I have very little to offer. My house is far too small to do any 
dressmaking in, so I shall be buying a new and bigger place in a 
few months. Then I shall set up my sewing machine (unused so far) 
and start to learn what all you good people take for granted. 

All I can say is watch out for a whole mess of questions when that 
happens, you may regret asking people to crawl out of the woodwork
<g>. In the meantime I lurk and read with great interest, particularly
the postings related to the late Victorian era, which is my main
period of interest.

Lissa (well I hate Liz)
aka The Duchess (well I did say I was an extrovert <g>)

People are always blaming their circumstances for what they are. I don't 
believe in circumstances. The people who get on in this world are the 
people who get up and look for the circumstances they want, and, if they 
can't find them, make them.
-- George Bernard Shaw, "Mrs. Warren's Profession," 1893

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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make
Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of
you>,
> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left
any
> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me
until
> 9/10/99)

Gracious!
I've woken up to 52 messages in my inbox this morning, SOMEONE certainly
must be speaking out!  Hmm, I think that in the year or so I've been on this
list I've made at *least* 8 posts, and this doesn't qualify me as an extro!?
;-)

Keep having fun and dispensing the wonderful information everyone, I'm
sliding back into the shadows now. :-D

Kerrie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 06:33:52 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
Subject: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
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-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>

I have posted twice in the last two months, do I count as an introvert?

I am currently writing up my Ph.D. thesis (which is in _mining_, not
_costuming_) and don't have much _time_. I still have in my mind, when all
this is over and I'm awaiting my baby, to take up the idea again of a new
FAQ list.

Things I haven't said:
People always contend that there were no buttons in the middle ages. I
don't know what kinds of buttons you mean, but when I was in the Danish
Nationalmuseet in Kopenhagen in May, they had two complete outfits on
display from the medieval period in Denmark (which began later than
elsewhere, around 1000). These outfits were obviously replicas of dresses
found at excavations or in bogs. And the sleeves did have buttons, a long
row of small fabric-covered buttons all down the outside of the underarm,
to get the narrow sleeve closed. I just don't find my notes on it. It was
11th or 12th century.
When I was in the Berlin National Gallery the other day, I noticed that in
the early 1500 paintings, everybody had sleeves not sewn closed, but pinned
around the arm, and sometime the detail was elaborate: so, sometimes, they
were obviously closed with little straps, and sometimes with little buttons
as well.

On many paintings from the 1500s and 1600s, I noticed slashes in people's
clothes through which the undergarment showed. These slashes were sometimes
decorative (as for sleeves), but more often functional, to allow for ease
without shaping tight garments around the knee, elbow, the knuckles of
gloves, the hip, one time even the codpiece. Nowwhere was there an
indication that the edges of these slashes were cared for in any way (so as
not to fray). My theory is that outer garments were made of fulled wool,
which doesn't fray.

For those of you who read German and are interested in Victorian/Edwardian
undergarments, there is a book I can recommend:
"Das Buch der Wäsche." by Brigitta Hochfelden and Marie Niedner (reprint),
hardback, ISBN: 3887460812, Price DEM 49.00 or EUR 25.05, available e.g.
from amazon.de (www.amazon.de . Or try www.buchhandel.de). The original
from around 1900 (no year given :-( ) is about all aspects of undergarments
and household linen, construction, embroidery, signing, whitework, care,
washing, etc., with many drawings/etchings and 5 pattern sheets. A
beautiful reprint edition from 1988.

There you are!

Happy 9/9/99 to all! Hope your computers and databases will make it!

Barbara Maren

--
Barbara Maren Winkler                         barbara@math.tu-berlin.de

  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 06:57:29 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Whoa!

> Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing
me
> from the h-needlework list.  :-)  
> --Charlene
> 
> --
> If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

H-needlework list?  Please tell me more!

Kathlene
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Yes, for the most part I am a lurker. I do this for many reasons...time,
learning what other people think, not much to contribute....but I do post an
occasional response when I feel it is necessary. I do that on all the lists
that I am a member of.
Carol Ross


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Happy Inrovert's Day --as well, from another 'lurker'. Actually I've been 
doing costumning for almost 28 years, mostly 16th century, with side ventures 
into the Regency, the Georgian, and Edwardian periods.With my busy work and 
teaching schedule,I , too, often don't have the energy to post very much. And 
just when someone puts out a plea for help--and my fingers get itchy to reply 
, I notice the Extroverts jump right in. Which is fine--just as long as those 
questions get taken care of by someone. Anyway, I've enjoyed reading the 
discussions--and found them informative, as well as sometimes entertaining:)
Cheers to all--
albra
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From: "A. Benton" <abenton@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: "A. Benton" <bentoam@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "A. Benton" <abenton@acesag.auburn.edu>

Greetings to all fellow lurkers!!

My name is Andrea, and I also lurk the corridors of the list.

And like many, I am in the SCA...and have started taking more of an
interest in making my garb more...."presentable"  :-)

I speak up every so often....

(now, back into lurking mode!)

Andrea
in 
Alabama



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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 09:18:05 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

In a message dated 9/9/1999 9:12:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
AlbraKat@aol.com writes:

> and my fingers get itchy to reply 
>  , I notice the Extroverts jump right in. Which is fine--just as long as 
> those 
>  questions get taken care of by someone.
But please, be sure you jump in if you see some misinformation in reply!  
Unfortunately, there seems to be some of that on this list.  (I don't count 
myself as a lurker--I chime in rather often, if the inquiry is in my area of 
interest/expertise.)
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:07:43 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990909021409.29925.rocketmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com> <4.1.19990908212353.073582a0@pop.primenet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Wool Question
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 09:08:07 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

I don't know if I'm an "in" or an "ex" but I have a question just the same.

Before I send back this wool that I thought was at least 13 oz.

Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and if I
was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this material. As
it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and wanted a
heavier weight.

Thanks in advance.

~Kyna (who sometimes lurks...sometimes saves posts to read later and
sometimes even butts into the conversation)
 ----
ICQ#12859312
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
http://GranndGarb.com

http://TheMarketSquare.com
COMING SOON!! Ask for details about your selling space now.

----- Original Message -----
From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?


>
> -Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
>
> At 07:32 PM 09/08/1999 , you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> >
> >           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to be.
I
> >read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol
>
> What she said! :->
>
> Svanny
>
>
> Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
>    Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
>   kittykat@primenet.com
>   ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
>   AIM: SvanhildrV
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:16:20 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>




> Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
> lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and if I
> was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this material. As
> it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and wanted
a
> heavier weight.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> ~Kyna (who sometimes lurks...sometimes saves posts to read later and
> sometimes even butts into the conversation)
You could make a cotehardie (14th cent) or Elizabethan.  How much do you
have?  If you have enough, it could make a beautiful houppleande.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:16:32 1999
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-Poster: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu

Another lurker timidly raises her hand.....My name is Vicki Betts, and although
I'm a frequent poster on cw-reenactors, I only occasionally post a question
on h-costume.  I mostly do American Civil War era clothing, and my current
research interest is Confederate homespun dresses.  In fact, week after next
I have another research trip to Georgia and Tennessee (after Chickamauga) to
see dresses at Brenau University, Tallulah Gorge State Park, Museum of Appala-
chia, and a dress in private hands.  This will all go towards a slide show/
talk for a conference in Athens, GA, next summer.  When I'm not doing Civil
War, I range from the Texas War of Independence (1836) to Wild West (1889).
My main problem is that I tend to research too much and sew too little!

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net
vicki@lib.uttyl.edu
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:31:08 1999
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

>From a (mostly) lurker:
I lurk because--I guess I have to come out of the closet about this--I
don't sew! [gasp].  So I never have anything to contribute to the
technical discussions.   I'm a grad student (same age as you, Dianne,
and I'd love to hear from you off the list), working on the birth of
fashion in the fourteenth century.  I get tremendously valuable
information from all of you, and contribute when I can, but it's rare
that I have something to say that you guys don't already know!
Lauri

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:32:34 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 08:52:43 -0500
From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

Carol, love it..."I lurk; therefore, I am!"

So here's my delurking question:  Can anyone refer me to (especially men's) Tudor
commercial patterns?  I'm no historian, and certainly don't have the huevos to call
myself a costumer, but am under the impression that most available are Elizabethan.
Specifically, I haven't found a pattern for the low-neck skirted jerkin worn over a
doublet, a la Henry's VIII's Holbein portrait.

There, that wasn't so hard!  Thanks, Renée (on digest)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:35:06 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990909021409.29925.rocketmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com> <4.1.19990908212353.073582a0@pop.primenet.com> <01a701befac4$5c3713c0$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com> <003101befac8$e114ea00$a3ee7ad1@pavilion>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

> -Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
> You could make a cotehardie (14th cent) or Elizabethan.  How much do you
> have?  If you have enough, it could make a beautiful houppleande.
> Andrea
>

I have 25 yards of charcoal gray and 25 of coco brown. So I know I have more
than enough. I was just so hesitant due to the weight. When compared to
heavy weight wools, this gabardine looks modern to me  :\

~Kyna

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:36:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 08:57:01 -0500
From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

Megan, have you tried http://www.farthingales.on.ca/clasps.htm#busks ?

HTH, Renée (delurking for 2nd time today!)

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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/8/99 11:38:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
antiquity@adelphia.net writes:

> Penny asked if the lurkers were introverts.  I would have to say not 
> necessarily.  I am primarily a lurker (with an occasional post) and am 
> actually quite the extrovert. 

I am also a constant lurker who enjoys the various conversations and 
information I have gathered. The few posts I have made have received the most 
thoughtful, informative answers--thanks! 

As for being an introvert, HA! I am one of the most over-the-top extroverts 
you'd ever meet. I often just don't feel qualified or experienced enough to 
contribute much.

We lurkers may be quiet, but I, for one, love this list!

Dani G
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:06:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 07:18:58 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:52 AM 09/09/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
>
>Carol, love it..."I lurk; therefore, I am!"
                 Well, nearly...it was what I was playing on.  :-)
>So here's my delurking question:  Can anyone refer me to (especially
men's) Tudor
>commercial patterns? 
                 Check the Green Duck on-line catalog.  www.theducks.com.
I vouch for Jania and Derek...they're good businesspeople and also very
helpful--esp. Jania.  Good luck!

>There, that wasn't so hard!  Thanks, Renée (on digest)
                  Good to meet you...Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:08:07 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 07:20:41 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
In-Reply-To: <01f301befac8$06107e60$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
References: <19990909021409.29925.rocketmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:34 AM 09/09/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: "Kyna Grannd"
<kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
>I have 25 yards of charcoal gray and 25 of coco brown. So I know I have more
>than enough. I was just so hesitant due to the weight. When compared to
>heavy weight wools, this gabardine looks modern to me  :\
            It does, because that's the setting we are used to seeing it
in--but it drapes and hangs like a dream--I chose gabardine for my first
houppelande and have been very happy with it overall.  Gra/inne / Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:13:50 1999
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-Poster: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>



We lurkers may be quiet, but I, for one, love this list!  Dani

And that goes for me also...Bernice


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:14:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 07:31:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Laughing Moon corset (was OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!)
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

I guess I am one of the quiet ones here. Anyway, 

I bought the Laughing Moon pattern and I'm happy with
it so far, but I'm used to having to make adjustments.


I made the Dore style corset, the one without the bust
gores, and I started with my size--20. I shortened the
pattern pieces by 1" (because I am petite) and I ended
up taking it in 2" because I wanted to be able to lace
it tighter. The finished product gave me a nice
silhouette, but I still want to make more adjustments.
When laced up, there is a bigger gap in the lacing at
the bottom of the corset (at my hips), because I found
that if I lace it too tight in the hips, it cuts off
my circulation. It maybe could be a wee bit tighter in
the waist, too. I don't think it will be that hard to
make these adjustments. I found the pattern to be easy
to work with.

I also recently made the chemise, and it worked out
fine in my size without having to make any
adjustments. 

I think I would eventually like to put together an
1870s gown, but for what purpose, I don't know. I
don't belong to a costumers guild or anything like
that. I'm just curious about this period (and many
others). My husband thinks it's weird that I go
through all the effort to make something that I end up
wearing around the house.

Meep.

--- Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
> 
> meep.
> 
> No, really. I usually only post when I have
> something *specific* to say.
> That, or time to say it.
> 
> Georgia
> back to mostly lurking. when I start making my vict.
> corset, you'll hear
> from me all right.
> 
> actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy
> the pattern that Laughing
> Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?
> 
> http:www.lafnmoon.com (I think... please correct if
> I'm wrong)
> G
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

===
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:15:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 09:29:53 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Men's Tudor (was OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
References: <199909090234.UAA10480@net.indra.com> <37D7BBAB.3764A7A6@flash.net>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

"V. Renee Bedford" wrote:
> 
> So here's my delurking question:  Can anyone refer me to (especially
> men's) Tudor commercial patterns?  I'm no historian, and certainly
> don't have the huevos to call myself a costumer, but am under the
> impression that most available are Elizabethan.
> Specifically, I haven't found a pattern for the low-neck skirted
> jerkin worn over a doublet, a la Henry's VIII's Holbein portrait.

There are none by the Big Three yet but there *is* a Medieval
Miscellania pattern.  Check with Alter Years & Renaissance Times...I've
also see it elsewhere but can't remember offhand and I'm right in the
middle of sewing a Girl Scout leader uniform, making brownie name tags
and assorted other things while trying to find all the lost items around
the house and figuring out how to pay for two root canals!  If you can
size up at all it's also in Holkeboer's book but you'll have to tweak
the pattern more depending on the person for whom you are fitting it.

Kat
the exhausted!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:20:53 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 07:36:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

I bought the busk for my Laughing Moon corset at
Greenberg and Hammer and I think it's a 12" busk. They
also had 14". I think that the pattern might call for
13" and I couldn't find that anywhere. 12" works ok
for me because I am petite and I shortened the pattern
anyway. I am not at home to check dimensions on things
so I THINK that's what I used. Farthingale's seems to
have a bigger selection:

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/clasps.htm#busks

but I've never ordered from them.

--- Megan McHugh <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> 
> >actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy
> the pattern that
> Laughing
> >Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?
> 
> 
> I just bought the pattern and am planning on getting
> around to it soon.
> Does anyone have a good source for the busk closure
> pictured on the pattern
> envelope?  Greenberg and Hammer show one in their
> catalog, but say they have
> only 4 hooks.  The one pictured has at least 6
> (pattern is not in front of
> me at the moment).
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

===
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:46:55 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: BlueMoonYD@aol.com

    Um, hi, my name's Yvonne, and I'm a lurker. Last time I did the 
personality test I was almost evenly balanced between introvert and 
extrovert. 
    I'm trying to stop making costumes to sell and actually make things for 
me, but I've discovered through this list that I have a lot to learn about 
accuracy.
    I do have a question, though. When I was in London this summer, I was 
told the Museum of London had just found the burial site of a noble Roman 
woman circa 2nd century AD in Spitalfields. Has anyone heard anything more 
about this?
    Thanks for all the wonderful information!
                                    Yvonne
    
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 08:19:22 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
References: <19990909021409.29925.rocketmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com> <4.1.19990908212353.073582a0@pop.primenet.com> <01a701befac4$5c3713c0$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com> <003101befac8$e114ea00$a3ee7ad1@pavilion> <01f301befac8$06107e60$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I have 25 yards of charcoal gray and 25 of coco brown. So I know I have more
> than enough. I was just so hesitant due to the weight. When compared to
> heavy weight wools, this gabardine looks modern to me  :\

Actually in medieval through elizabethan times, fine wool was very much the norm
for the higher classes.  Heavy rough wool is the figment of the imagination of
Hollywood etc...  If I had that much I would make a cotehardie, a houppeland,
and elizabethan, two light cloaks for warmer weather, some trews, and a blanket
or two for my bed.  heh heh.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 10:35:39 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Delurking Day
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 08:52:14 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Well, I delurk sometimes, mostly to ask questions.  I don't generally answer
them because at lot of them have to do with Medieval, Renaissance and
Elizabethan and I don't know enough about those times periods to help
anyone.  I'm more of a Jack-of-all-Trades, Master-of-None.  I have an
interest in all time periods, but I'm not an expert in any one.

I'm currently working on a reproduction of the Titanic Jump Dress, which I
hope to finish by Christmas time so I can wear it to my husband's company
party.  I have to admit, though, I was getting a bit obsessive the other day
when I couldn't find the EXACT buttons that I needed and I was on the
Internet for hours and driving around to every store with buttons that I
could find, so I decided to make them from some buttons that were close.
Glad I did too, because they are exactly what I wanted.

I have been making costumes, probably since I was 10, with varying degrees
of authenticity :)  I have made everything from Egyptian (when I was 10, not
very historically accurate) to Xanadu (from the movie) to Grease (our high
school used to have an annual 50's dance), so a little bit of historical, a
little bit of Hollywood.  I've also done 1850s and 1870-1880s stuff too.

Now, if I can only find some red, satin ankle boots........


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 10:47:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 19:00:03 +0200
From: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------5D76B077645BA7C9C81F587D
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello !


> http://farthingales.on.ca has spoon busks & reg. hook-and-eye type busks.
> They also sell the pattern as a corset kit. I'm considering getting it, but
> it includes the german plastic boning. The lady I emailed said that it was
> much better than Rigilene, but I'm very wary.. Anyone have any experience
> with German plastic stuff?
>
> Kris
> delurking... :]
>
Well, this question gives me the opportunity to participate here again
after a break andcontribute something hopefully helpful ;-).
Yes, I have experiences with the German plastic boning, not
surprisingly, as I am in
Germany ;-).
We used this for 18th century corset boning and it worked really well.
It`s easy to cut if you have a cutter that`s sharp enough and it has got
a smooth surface
and can be well inserted into the sewn tunnels.
It`s much more rigid than Rigilene and makes the corset look more period
because the
plastic isn`t seen on the outside or inside the corset.
We tried to use it as a panier boning during our little baroque costume
workshop over
here as well, but for that purpose it`s too flexible and we had to take
steel instead.
So I would recommend it for corsets.

Hope this helps,
many greetings,
Diana


--------------5D76B077645BA7C9C81F587D
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<HTML>
Hello !
<BR>&nbsp;
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE><A HREF="http://farthingales.on.ca">http://farthingales.on.ca</A> has spoon busks &amp; reg. hook-and-eye type busks.&nbsp;
They also sell the pattern as a corset kit. I'm considering getting it, but
it includes the german plastic boning. The lady I emailed said that it was&nbsp;
much better than Rigilene, but I'm very wary.. Anyone have any experience&nbsp;
with German plastic stuff?

Kris
delurking... :]</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
Well, this question gives me the opportunity to participate here again
after a break andcontribute something hopefully helpful ;-).
<BR>Yes, I have experiences with the German plastic boning, not surprisingly,
as I am in
<BR>Germany ;-).
<BR>We used this for 18th century corset boning and it worked really well.
<BR>It`s easy to cut if you have a cutter that`s sharp enough and it has
got a smooth surface
<BR>and can be well inserted into the sewn tunnels.
<BR>It`s much more rigid than Rigilene and makes the corset look more period
because the
<BR>plastic isn`t seen on the outside or inside the corset.
<BR>We tried to use it as a panier boning during our little baroque costume
workshop over
<BR>here as well, but for that purpose it`s too flexible and we had to
take steel instead.
<BR>So I would recommend it for corsets.

<P>Hope this helps,
<BR>many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------5D76B077645BA7C9C81F587D--



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 11:42:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 09:55:54 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Wool gabardine/Lurkfest 9.9.99
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Kyna, the lightweight wool you have sounds to me like a wonderful fabric
for cotehardies, houppelandes, Burgundians, Tudor, Flemish, and
Elizabethan.  The weave is not out of time for those, although what exact
documentation exists for those garments in that weave is beyond my
knowledge.  I do know that our modern wools are, on average, heavier and
fuzzier than is right for many garments.  I'd say you have an asset rather
than a liability!

It's fun to hear from the quieter list members.  In particular, the birth
of fashion in the 14th century sounds like a great topic, Lauri.  Tell us more!

Leslie

"Yeah, you know, Flemish.  From Flemland."  
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:03:16 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Lurking & Learning, 9/9/99
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-Poster: MargEvaPor@aol.com

In solidarity with the other so-called "introverts", I shall speak out today.
    I am a very satisfied member of this listserve.  Although I can claim 
significant historical knowledge of costume--my very first costume book was 
James Laver's "Concise History" of, purchased at Williamsburg when I was 
about 10 yrs old--I must admit a shameful ignorance of sewing.  During my 
years of theatre training I studied costume design, but was too lazy to 
participate in costume construction.  Nowadays, as writer and social 
historian, my focus is British and Celtic cultures, roughly from the 
Elizabethan through the Victorian eras.  I concentrated primarily on fashion 
and jewellery, until research for my 10th historical romance novel forced me 
into some rather intensive study of textile manufacture [printed linen, late 
18th century].  I suspect my most recent post to this list was close to a 
year ago, when I needed info about how to access items in storage at the V&A 
in London.  [My experiences while there, and at Bath, far exceeded my highest 
expectations.]
    I've never belonged to SCA.  I occasionally attend Regency or Georgian 
era costume balls, mostly in connection with writers' conferences, and I have 
a little experience in period dancing.  Because I can't make my own costumes, 
I create a design and a costumer takes it from there.
    Also, I purchase books from R.L. Shep, and am really jazzed to see that 
name pop up on the list from time to time.
    Many thanks for the shared wisdom and knowledge here, which I find 
entirely fascinating and extremely useful!
Cheers,
Margaret Evans Porter
http://members.aol.com/MargEvaPor/
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 19:35:45 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

> ><< n it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
> > "Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  >>
> >
> >Of course the proper Victorian reply is:
> >
> >"Oh my goodness no! [curtsey] But thank you very much for asking."
> 
> 
> <::snort::>  Not fair!  Now I have to wipe Diet Pepsi off my monitor!
> 
OK, but wasn't it worth the chuckle. Thanks, Albert, for making me laugh
after a stressful day,

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 12:00:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 10:01:39 +0000
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-Poster: Annette M Allen <annetteallen@juno.com>

Maybe we don't feel as qualified to speak on many of
the issues as some of you...  I enjoy my "morning
mail", but usually by the time I think I might reply to
something, someone else already has...
(Hey, maybe that introverted "pause for thought" DOES
have something to do with it....  Hmmm...)

-Annette

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999 20:20:15 -0400 "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com> writes:
> 
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> 
> Are our lurkers introverts????
> 
> From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
> <http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
> "Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given 
> the
> right forum. They've found that the internet can help them 
> communicate in
> their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for 
> thought
> and analysis. "
> 
> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make 
> Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and 
> let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
> 
> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both 
> of you>,
> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I 
> left any
> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from 
> me until
> 9/10/99)
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> 
>
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>, <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.1.19990909094702.035bad40@mail.canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Thank You WAS Re: Wool
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:07:04 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Thanks to everyone that's been responding!  Sheesh...I've been going by what
I see at fairs and reenactments. I guess that considering the fact that the
wool blends which are heavier, are also less expensive, it's no surprise
that it is the choice of many other merchants.

I'm *REALLY* excited about this wool now. I have a total of 75 yards
including the black watch plaid worsted gabardine.

I'm thinking along the lines of a few cotehardies and houpelandes and
possibly an Elizabethan  for myself (I'm in dire need of new garb but I keep
putting it off until "after this next fair" or "after the Christmas rush"
etc. ::sighs::)

I'll let everyone know how these come out. I can see how with the
drapability of this fabrice that the houpelands and cotehardies will be
especially nice.

~Kyna


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From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
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-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>

Hi all...

I'm defering to the greater knowledge of the list to help this lurker
out of a jam.  My husband needs his officer's frock coat finished by
Wednesday and I have no idea as to the type and width of the braid used
in the Austrian Knots on the Confederate frock coats.  Can someone help
me out?  Also, how was the stuff attached to the coats?

Thanks....

MeriBeth
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


------ =_NextPart_000_01BEFAC0.BAA394A0
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I too, was just now fantasizing about having that much wonderful wool to play with...is there a support group?  ;->

Carrie

-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I have 25 yards of charcoal gray and 25 of coco brown. So I know I have more
> than enough. I was just so hesitant due to the weight. When compared to
> heavy weight wools, this gabardine looks modern to me  :\

Actually in medieval through elizabethan times, fine wool was very much the norm
for the higher classes.  Heavy rough wool is the figment of the imagination of
Hollywood etc...  If I had that much I would make a cotehardie, a houppeland,
and elizabethan, two light cloaks for warmer weather, some trews, and a blanket
or two for my bed.  heh heh.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 12:48:31 1999
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

Thank you to all who sent suggestions on the corset "redistribution"
problem, both personally and to the list.  I have several things to try
now.

I have another question for when I get past that and finally start working
on the Pelican gown.  What method would you all suggest for the slashes in
the sleeve head?  I understand they were sometimes cut and waxed but I'm
leaning toward facing each one.  Even if some of them are slightly on the
bias they look too long to just cut and leave as is.

thanks,
lisa

Lisa Leong        *       <|
lisaleon@hawaii.edu	  .^.  *
		     *  .=.=.=.       *
	    *    <|     ^V V V^    <|  
	       \^ ^ ^/   |   |   \^ ^ ^/
  	        |   |^^^^|   |^^^^|   |  
	        | []       []      [] |  
		| ":":":":...:":":":" | 
             ~~~|________[oIo]________|~~~   
            ~~~~~~~    ~~~~~~~~~     ~~~~~~
                   ~~~~~         ~~~~~


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:06:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:20:06 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
In-Reply-To: <37D7E77D.C66B6B9@zebra.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

My confederate buddie needs to know what rank your husband is.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 9 Sep 1999, Meribeth McCombs wrote:

> Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 11:59:41 -0500
> From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
> 
> 
> -Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
> 
> Hi all...
> 
> I'm defering to the greater knowledge of the list to help this lurker
> out of a jam.  My husband needs his officer's frock coat finished by
> Wednesday and I have no idea as to the type and width of the braid used
> in the Austrian Knots on the Confederate frock coats.  Can someone help
> me out?  Also, how was the stuff attached to the coats?
> 
> Thanks....
> 
> MeriBeth
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:13:09 1999
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-Poster: rima@anet.net

someone asked:

>Does anyone have a good source for the busk closure pictured on the pattern
>envelope?

The most extensive collection of corset stuff I've EVER seen is at Richard
the Thread.   Floor to ceiling busks.

check 'em out at http://richardthethread.com

They also have the only Restoration era patterns I've ever seen.

Rima


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-Poster: rima@anet.net

>My next project is an Italian Renaissance 'camisa {spelling?],
undergown, and overgown.  I have med.-dk. blue cotton velveteen [easy to
>work with, natural fiber, &c.] for the overgown.  I intend to make the
chemise of the finest linen I can find.  Anyone care to suggest an
>appropriate fabric for the undergown and appropriate trim?  I was thinking
possibly of a cream color...maybe brocade?   When did moire became
>fashionable--not until much later, did it?  And might be too lightweight?
I live in an area known for getting up to 110 degrees F. in the summer
>sometimes [it's now in the 90's daily], and down as far as the 60's-70's
evenings.  Or in the wintertime between [degrees F. again] 40's - freezing.
>  For any suggestions, thank you in advance for lending your expertise to
>my cause.  -- Carol / Gra/inne


I've done a bunch of Italian Renaissance gowns with tie-on sleeves, so you
can lose 'em in the summer.   If you can find really fine linen for the
undergown, you won't roast too badly.

I've also been toying with doing two sets of sleeves for the same gown -
one with full length lace-up sleeves, and the other with the segemented
sleeves, which might be cooler, even if they're long.

Might work for you, Carol!

Rima


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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Corsets w/ straps, 1886 bustle
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 11:28:30 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Just joined the list yesterday - back again after a many years hiatus - only
to find it's de-lurk day.

>What's next?
The 1886 mega-bustle gown. For dancing, of course.  Here's the question.
Having looked at "Corsets & Crinolines", Cunnington's Brief History, and
other books on unmentionables, I see no bustle specifically for the "chicken
butt" look.

Here's the question: What makes the upward pointy bit? Is it a mound of
draping that's part of the dress?  An extra appliance or padding added to
the typical bustle? Some arcane bustle contraption that is so atypical that
surveys dont include it?

I have an vintage 1886 pattern and "the mound of draping" answer is not
allowed for in the cut/layout/hang.  Your helpful hints on books, pics, mags
& lit to reference graciously accepted.

>Corsets w/ straps
The straps are there in the early corset as the corsets are built in the
flat & are short waisted.  The straps help them stay up where they should
be, doing the job they should be doing. 19th c corsets, w/ curves &
waistlines dont tend to ride up or down - no strap needed. If your 19th c
corset does shift, chances are it doesnt fit or there is an imbalance in the
way it's tied.)
Likely I'm repeating something somebody said earlier, before I was on the
digest list.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:17:13 1999
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From: Cindy Brown <cbrown@sisnet.ssku.k12.ca.us>
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-Poster: Cindy Brown <cbrown@sisnet.ssku.k12.ca.us>

Hello...

	I've asked a number of questions during the past 2 years and have
always been dazzled by the brilliant answers and suggestions.  A lurker?
Yes.  An active list user?  That, too.  Thanks to all of you.  I read 
the messages daily!

Cindy Brown
Costume Mistress
Siskiyou Performing Arts Center

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:24:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 14:37:07 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

In keeping with today's theme, another introvert ventures out with a comment. 
:-)

Re: Georgia's question about the Laughing Moon corset pattern -- I built my 
first corset last month using this pattern.  I made the Dore Straight Seam 
out of coutil, with an outside layer of moire.  I followed their suggestions 
of making a muslin and doing two test fittings.  I had to trim back the 
underarm areas about 1/2" - 3/4", but other than that, it went together 
smoothly and easily, even with feline interference.  But, then I was sorta 
paranoid about screwing the whole thing up, so did everything by the rules, 
tracing out all lines and markings and all the other stuff that I usually 
don't do with the rest of my projects.

One suggestion, though -- trace out the pattern onto butcher paper, if you 
weren't planning to already.  

--Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:24:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:38:51 -0500
From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com, ches@io.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
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-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>

Hi... he's a colonel.

MeriBeth

ches@io.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: ches@io.com
> 
> My confederate buddie needs to know what rank your husband is.
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
> 
> On Thu, 9 Sep 1999, Meribeth McCombs wrote:
> 
> > Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 11:59:41 -0500
> > From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
> > Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
> >
> >
> > -Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
> >
> > Hi all...
> >
> > I'm defering to the greater knowledge of the list to help this lurker
> > out of a jam.  My husband needs his officer's frock coat finished by
> > Wednesday and I have no idea as to the type and width of the braid used
> > in the Austrian Knots on the Confederate frock coats.  Can someone help
> > me out?  Also, how was the stuff attached to the coats?
> >
> > Thanks....
> >
> > MeriBeth
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:29:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 14:43:18 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Supplies! Duh!  *smacks head*  I knew I forgot something!  I got my supplies 
from Farthingale's.  Busk (6 hook to answer Megan's question), bones, coutil, 
everything.  I faxed the order out one evening, and Linda, the owner, called 
the next morning to let me know that one item was out of stock and to suggest 
alternatives.  She then shipped it out that day and I had it in less than a 
week, start to finish.

She's in Canada, so at first glance, the prices seem higher than other 
places, but for US customers, expect about a 30% discount off of what's 
listed because of the exchange rate.

No affiliation, just a very satisfied customer, 
--Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:39:52 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>


--------------34B77FF0E4AE2301DB74B51B
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Has anyone had any experience with Richard the Threads patterns? It's quite hard to tell from the drawings what the
finished product is supposed to look like (at least to me). I want to make sure that the patterns I buy are as
historically accurate as possible, since I don't yet know enough to alter patterns for accuracy. Thanks for your help,
folks!

Julie
schuck@vci.net

The most extensive collection of corset stuff I've EVER seen is at Richard
the Thread.   Floor to ceiling busks.

check 'em out at http://richardthethread.com

They also have the only Restoration era patterns I've ever seen.

--------------34B77FF0E4AE2301DB74B51B
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Has anyone had any experience with Richard the Threads patterns? It's quite
hard to tell from the drawings what the finished product is supposed to
look like (at least to me). I want to make sure that the patterns I buy
are as historically accurate as possible, since I don't yet know enough
to alter patterns for accuracy. Thanks for your help, folks!
<p>Julie
<br>schuck@vci.net
<p><i>The most extensive collection of corset stuff I've EVER seen is at
Richard</i>
<br><i>the Thread.&nbsp;&nbsp; Floor to ceiling busks.</i><i></i>
<p><i>check 'em out at <A HREF="http://richardthethread.com">http://richardthethread.com</A></i><i></i>
<p><i>They also have the only Restoration era patterns I've ever seen.</i></html>

--------------34B77FF0E4AE2301DB74B51B--

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Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Well, I have made that type of skirted jerkin and it is easy....god forbid I
should state this but the jerkin pattern in the tudor medieval miscalliany
is pretty good. Just don't bother with the instructions. As for the doublets
in this era they are basically the same as a later period doublet but
without the skirting or tabs on the bottom. Although, skirting comes in with
the transitional clothes. If this is not enough information let me know.
Carol Ross

-----Original Message-----
From: V. Renee Bedford <salieri@flash.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, September 09, 1999 8:50 AM
Subject: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!



-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

Carol, love it..."I lurk; therefore, I am!"

So here's my delurking question:  Can anyone refer me to (especially men's)
Tudor
commercial patterns?  I'm no historian, and certainly don't have the huevos
to call
myself a costumer, but am under the impression that most available are
Elizabethan.
Specifically, I haven't found a pattern for the low-neck skirted jerkin worn
over a
doublet, a la Henry's VIII's Holbein portrait.

There, that wasn't so hard!  Thanks, Renée (on digest)

_________________________________________________________________


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:46:02 1999
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-Poster: Graham Hadfield <gj.hadfield@ukonline.co.uk>

Another one delurking

Although I don't post questions, I don't think I am much of an introvert.

I once travelled to London from the North East of England in full 17th
Century kit, with my 20 year old son who's a musketeer  - on the bus -
(didn't have time to change when we got there) nobody turned a hair - just
like the English - they just pretend that you're normal.  The following
year we used the train, it was faster.

It's fun wandering round the Tower in kit and watching the faces of the
tourists.

Jill
Sir Thomas Tyldesley's Regiment of Foote
Kings Army
English Civil War Society

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-Poster: Robin Hill <hill@uwyo.edu>


I never post to H-COSTUME because I never make historical costume
(unlike the other Robin, who contributes her expertise here). Saving
that for retirement, or free time, or carriage to a higher plane,
whichever comes first. But I sew extensively and sure enjoy hearing
about historical details and techniques.

I did sew my own doctoral hood, after drafting my own pattern, after
doing weeks of absorbing research on academic regalia.  I still make the
pattern available to anyone who wants to pay the cost of copying and
postage.

--- 
                   Robin Hill         hill@uwyo.edu        (307)766-5289
                     Department of Computer Science, University of Wyoming



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:51:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 15:04:37 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Med Misc/Period Patts for Guys
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Oh, my!  My third post in one day!  The discussion of the MM/PP Tudor pattern 
made me remember a question I have.  How are the MM/PP men's patterns for 
fit?  Are they as bad as the women's?  Specifically, I'm looking for input on 
the cotehardie pattern.  My blossoming garb-sl*t of a fiance picked the thing 
up at VA Ren Faire and would like one for fall.

Thanks!
--Jen
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
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Subject: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 14:48:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BEFAD2.535F8E40
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In "The Undercover Story,"  a beautiful show catalogue from FIT in 1982, =
on page 100 (in case you have the book) is a picture of a French lady of =
1870 in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said! Somehow that looks =
awful when written.) In the same book (page 105) a French postcard of =
1900 shows the same procedure. In "20,000 Years of Fashion" by Boucher =
see illustrations 1085 and 1090 (page 403 in my edition.) The drawers of =
the lady in the blue corset (Manet 1877) look so full you have to =
believe it's because of a tucked chemise rather than just combinations. =
It seems all my examples are French. Does this help?

Martha  (I just joined, so am I a lurker?)

   That reminds me of an unanswered question that a few of us were =
discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember which one).  The =
question was something to the effect of did women of late 1800's (1880's =
or 90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or leave them out?  One =
poster insisted that they left them out, although I saw a picture of a =
chemise tucked into the drawers in one of my books.  Was it the option =
of the wearer or was there a trend?  The poster with the question wanted =
actual documentation.   I am interested to know the answer to this from =
someone with more expertise on the subject. Don't mean to put you on the =
spot, Dianne.  This question is open to anyone with a comment. =20

  Thanks! =20

  Erica Pence
  Robes of Antiquity
  www.robesofantiquity.com
  Online store coming soon!

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BEFAD2.535F8E40
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In "The Undercover Story,"&nbsp; a =
beautiful show=20
catalogue from FIT in 1982, on page 100 (in case you have the book) is a =
picture=20
of a French lady of 1870 in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said!=20
Somehow&nbsp;that looks awful when written.) In the same book (page 105) =
a=20
French postcard of 1900 shows the same procedure. In "20,000 Years of =
Fashion"=20
by Boucher see illustrations 1085 and 1090 (page 403 in my edition.) The =
drawers=20
of the lady in the blue corset (Manet 1877) look so full you have to =
believe=20
it's because of a tucked chemise rather than just combinations. It seems =
all my=20
examples are French. Does this help?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Martha&nbsp; (I just joined, so am I a=20
lurker?)</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;That reminds me of an unanswered question =
that a few=20
  of us were discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember =
which=20
  one).&nbsp; The question was something to the effect of did women of =
late=20
  1800's (1880's or 90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or =
leave them=20
  out?&nbsp; One poster insisted that they left them out, although I saw =
a=20
  picture of&nbsp;a chemise tucked into the drawers in one of my =
books.&nbsp;=20
  Was it the option of the wearer or was there a trend?&nbsp; The poster =
with=20
  the question wanted actual documentation.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am =
interested to=20
  know the answer to this from someone with more expertise on the =
subject. Don't=20
  mean to put you on the spot, Dianne.&nbsp; This question is open to =
anyone=20
  with a comment.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
  store coming soon!</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 14:09:40 1999
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Lurking
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 20:08:14 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Hi all
As it's non-lurking day on the list...here I am
My name's Emma & I live in Stratford-upon-Avon in England.
I love the list and get lots out of it without ften finding the <need> to
post myself.
I make Tudor & medieval kit for myself and my partner & our friends who are
involved in re-enactment in England - it's a growing line at the moment.
I've only been doing this for a few years, but before that I made theatre
costumes & made modern clothes so i've done a bit of sewing.
The re-enactment group I belong to spends 3 whole weeks in kit every summer
living as Tudors (until the punters go home!) so all clothing has to be as
accurate as possible & stand up to being worked in.  And I do mean work.
I work with horses - cart horses as well as riding horses and my partner is
an archer so the clothes have to be really sturdy - nothing worse than
splitting your hose as you bend down!
I've got lots of stuff out of lurking & will continue to do so - posting as
and when. If that's all right.  I'm not an introvert either, just tired at
the end of the day.

Good things
Emma

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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 12:28:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Alright!  I just can't STAND it anymore!  There is NO
WAY I can keep my mouth shut for a WHOLE DAY!

*phew*  I feel better.

I actually have a very important question that has a
time constraint, or I would have kept quiet until
tomorrow...

I bought the 1920's hat pattern from Past Patterns...
I made the large size, and it is too small for my
head!  Argh!  Has anyone used this pattern?  If so,
did you run into this problem, and how did you fix it?
 Please help... we are putting on a 1920's coctail
party on Saturday night and I REALLY need this.

Oh, and thanks for the laugh.

> in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said!
> Somehow that looks awful when written.) In the same

Sarah

__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <324ebbc8.25095ec5@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc/Period Patts for Guys
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 12:51:37 -0700
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> Oh, my!  My third post in one day!  The discussion of the MM/PP Tudor
pattern
> made me remember a question I have.  How are the MM/PP men's patterns for
> fit?  Are they as bad as the women's?  Specifically, I'm looking for input
on
> the cotehardie pattern.  My blossoming garb-sl*t of a fiance picked the
thing
> up at VA Ren Faire and would like one for fall.

I have it, somewhere.  It's terrible unless you are good at taking
measurements and then adjusting the pattern to suit.  It is also not period
as the sleeve is made like a modern suit sleeve so you can't raise your arm
without raising the entire coat.  Not a good situation if you use one of the
period methods of holding the hose up (tying them to the coat.)

Dan

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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 12:57:57 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:13 PM 09/09/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>I too, was just now fantasizing about having that much wonderful wool to
play with...is there a support group?  ;->
>
>Carrie
                 Right here, I suspect...although this is kind of a combo
all-in-one 'get you out of trouble', 'get you into trouble' kinda place.
:-)   Carol, who must admit to sudden surges of fabric/attire lust while
reading this group...and has been very grateful to all those who have
answered my questions and lent their expertise to my need...
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 15:01:21 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #543
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 11:16 AM 9/9/99 -0700, you wrote:

>
>I've done a bunch of Italian Renaissance gowns with tie-on sleeves, so you
>can lose 'em in the summer.   If you can find really fine linen for the
>undergown, you won't roast too badly.
>
>I've also been toying with doing two sets of sleeves for the same gown -
>one with full length lace-up sleeves, and the other with the segemented
>sleeves, which might be cooler, even if they're long.
>
>Might work for you, Carol!
>
>Rima

I agree!  My only Italian Ren gown is golden yellow brocade with
wine-colored trim, and I made 2 different sleeves to tie on, as well as a
set of cuffs, for *really* hot weather, and I love it.  It's nearly as fun
as having 2 or 3 different gowns, but with only a fraction of the work!

Doris, de-lurking for the second time in a week!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 14:51:49 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:07:25 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede stuff
that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  Does
anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of material
without ruining it?


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 14:56:54 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:07:28 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Moorish/Middle Eastern question
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Could the person who asked about Moorish and related costuming please write
me offlist?  I have some good info and class notes, but am too swamped
right now to dig them out... and I'll forget in a few hours if not prodded...

Leslie
leslie@canfield.com
"And then you ease this piece into the... um... what was I talking about?
What is this fabric doing in my hands?"
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:02:00 -0700
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From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Thank You WAS Re: Wool
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Kyna wrote:
<<I'm *REALLY* excited about this wool now. I have a total of 75 yards 
<<including the black watch plaid worsted gabardine.

Dangit, what I SHOULD have said was, "You'll never find a legitimate use
for that, but I'll buy it from you..."

Grins,
Leslie
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:22:29 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede stuff
> that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  Does
> anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of material
> without ruining it?

wow.  I suspect you are stuck with black shoes.  Not because of the
fabric/materials but because once something is black, it's pretty much black
for life.  Unless you have bleach and then it's probably going to be gray.  I
could, of course, be mistaken about this.  You could certainly paint it with a
paint that would cover it but the paint would probably ruin the shoes in the
end.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 14:37:24 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Farthingales?  e-mail addy?  snail mail addy?  More information, please.

Kathlene

----------
> From: AnnoraK@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
> Date: Thursday, September 09, 1999 12:43 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com
> 
> Supplies! Duh!  *smacks head*  I knew I forgot something!  I got my
supplies 
> from Farthingale's.  Busk (6 hook to answer Megan's question), bones,
coutil, 
> everything.  I faxed the order out one evening, and Linda, the owner,
called 
> the next morning to let me know that one item was out of stock and to
suggest 
> alternatives.  She then shipped it out that day and I had it in less than
a 
> week, start to finish.
> 
> She's in Canada, so at first glance, the prices seem higher than other 
> places, but for US customers, expect about a 30% discount off of what's 
> listed because of the exchange rate.
> 
> No affiliation, just a very satisfied customer, 
> --Jen
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Julie asks:

>Has anyone had any experience with Richard the Threads patterns? It's
>quite hard to tell from the drawings what the
>finished product is supposed to look like (at least to me). I want to make
>sure that the patterns I buy are as
>historically accurate as possible, since I don't yet know enough to alter
>patterns for accuracy. Thanks for your help,
>folks!

I just bought Restoration Man and built myself the coat.   OK, so the
pattern's sized for a man (and I'm a lady) and their instructions STINK.
Patterns are intended for professional costumers (which I am NOT) who
already know what they're doing.

Having said all that, it worked pretty well.  I used leftover fabric from
two curtain projects - yummy green brocade lined with greenish gold silk
dupioni - so now I know what changes to make when I'm actually spending
money on fabric.

BTW, when I tried to buy this pattern at Alter Years, they wanted $60
because it was "special order".  So when I found RTT on the web and
discovered they were a mere 1/2 mile from me, I called them directly.  They
print the patterns to order, so they need a little notice, but I paid $32
instead of $60.

This is also the project where I learned that (in the garmet district,
anyway) it's cheaper to buy a gross of buttons than it is to buy 50 of 'em.
;-D

Hope this helps.

Rima


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:36:03 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I make tie-on sleeves for both Ren & Tudor....it can totally change the
look of an outfit and it allows you to just take the things off when it
gets waaaaaaaay too hot or to give one as a favor to a fighter. <wink>

Kat
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

AnnoraK@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Oh, my!  My third post in one day!  The discussion of the MM/PP Tudor
> pattern made me remember a question I have.  How are the MM/PP men's
> patterns for fit?  Are they as bad as the women's?  Specifically, I'm
> looking for input on the cotehardie pattern.  My blossoming garb-sl*t
> of a fiance picked the thing up at VA Ren Faire and would like one for
> fall.

The Laurel of the Household when I was in SCA used both the men's
cotehardie pattern and the tunic pattern from MM and didn't have any
trouble...otoh she *always* made the inital one out of muslin and then
adjusted the butcher paper pattern to fit (an easy way to do this is to
pin and then cut out your seam allowance past the pins...or at least,
that's what *I* do! <grin>).  She told me to never, ever read the
instructions because they read like Greek (assuming one does not speak
nor read Greek), just look at the pictures and never, ever cut the
pattern...use butcher paper or newsprint or opened out paper bags etc to
make the pattern pieces (and make sure you put the date and measurements
of the person on the piece as well as the piece number) then when you've
got it fitted properly and the pattern adjusted, shove it in a manila
envelope with the date, person's name, pattern type etc.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:41:05 1999
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From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #542
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

>The most extensive collection of corset stuff I've EVER seen is at Richard
>the Thread.   Floor to ceiling busks.

Only because we're de-lurking today....

I read that, and immediately pictured busks about 10 feet long.

And that's why I generally lurk...  :)

Donna Kenton

Visit my web page!  http://www.dabbler.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:45:36 1999
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-Poster: Dianne Kristoff <vestido@mb.sympatico.ca>

To "K & J Hopkins"

Farthingales web address is       .....     farthingales.on.ca

It is a Canadian company from which I have had excellent service in the
past.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:47:23 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 16:59:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST:De-Lurking
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

Lurking?  I've been accused of lurching  (and even lunching!), on occasion, 
but lurking?......

I don't contribute much for several reasons --

  1)  I don't have a great deal of time to spend on-line, and most of that 
time is taken
      up just READING the messages......

  2)  Most of the messages aren't dealing with timeframes or garments I have 
      much knowledge about or interest in......

   3)  Frequently, when I DO find something that I could respond to --- I go 
down several more messages and find that someone has already answered it!

K.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:47:24 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Another one delurking
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 16:54:10 -0400 
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

Extrovert - introvert both at the same time!  Always with an interest in
costume, I am just within the last couple of years getting to put it in
practice (beyond those Halloween costumes).  My adult daughter is a
volunteer at an Abraham Lincoln site and I've been doing research and sewing
her outfits from the 1830-1840's.  I've really enjoyed the discussion on
altering patterns for the modern figure and graphing from books.  I've been
sewing since childhood, but finding it very rewarding now that I'm working
on these outfits and have gained the courage to experiment with the style
and fitting.

I collect old photos (tintypes, etc.) for the fashions, books, patterns,
fashion magazines (pre-1915 but occasionally 1930's - 50's, just because...)
and old sewing machines too.  Would love to take some costuming classes
someday.   Enjoy combining needlework with the early 19th century clothing
and accessories.

Since I'm not involved in SGA, I too have to look up definitions and work to
understand what is being discussed, but enjoy searching my art books and
modern copy of the Book of Hours to see the clothing that is mentioned.  I
have nothing to add to these discussions, but enjoy reading them.  I too, am
on the digest so questions are most often already answered by the time I
read them.

I see several familiar names on some of the other lists that I'm on:
h-needlework; sewinghistoric; vintage clothing

Keep up the fun.  Scotty, back to cloaking.   

Connie Fairchild

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:48:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 17:01:49 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc/Period Patts for Guys
In-Reply-To: <37D81EBB.8ADB1534@home.com>
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

>otoh she *always* made the inital one out of muslin and then
>adjusted the butcher paper pattern to fit 

A trick I learned was to make the initial one out of gingham.  Make sure
it's the woven check, not the printed one.  It's more expensive than
muslin, but you can see the grain lines so much easier, which makes it
easier for me to use.

Donna Kenton




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 16:30:36 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Lurkers
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 17:44:14 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

I suppose I qualify as a lurker, even though I don't really think of 
myself as one.

I've been on the list about two years now.  I read the messages every 
day, but I have to admit that I mass-delete a lot of threads that focus 
on times/topics outside my area of interest.  (I'm in the SCA and I focus 
on early 15th Century France.)  Part of the reason is that I just get too 
much mail to read every thread.  The other part is that I've cultivated 
an active avoidance of anything that might encourage me to pick up a new 
hobby or conceive a new project.  I already have 2000 yards of fabric in 
my sewing room and an idea list that gets added to quicker than I can 
complete the projects that are already on it. :-)

I do occassionally post a question, and am always pleased with the 
knowledge level of the people on this list.  I have also been known to 
respond to other people's posts, but 95% of the time I find that by the 
time I finish catching up with the most recent posts, someone else has 
already said exactly what I would have.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irčne leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Would regular red leather dye work on this, I wonder? Maybe call a
Tandy's or a shop which carries leather?


					Arlys

>> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede
stuff
>> that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  
>Does  anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of 
>material without ruining it?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 17:33:44 1999
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From: Moonshadow <doroket@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Another lurker outed.
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-Poster: Moonshadow <doroket@yahoo.com>


Hello List, I too am a lurker!  I sew medieval period
garb for my family as we are involved with the SCA. 

I am enjoying reading all the comments from the
experts.  Believe me, I have learned a lot. I used to
sew just pillows and curtains, garb is so much more
fun!

We live near Knoxville, TN. My name is Dorothy  8^)

 
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

I fall somewhere in between "lurker" and "regular poster."  This is
partially because of time constraints, and partially because the period I
study (11th-14th century European, with a big emphasis on the 13th century;
although I also dabble in Norse and 16th century stuff) is not one of the
ones which seems to attract as many enthusiasts (especially the 13th
century, except for Henk, of course :-)

I have recently turned into a handsewing addict.  I've been spending time
perfecting a 13th century dress design, and trying to figure out when I'm
going to get a chance to try a 10-gore "Greenland" gown.  My husband and I
are in the midst of expanding our SCA merchanting business, and one of the
things I want to offer is high-end, authentic "central Middle Ages"
clothing--handsewn if people want it that way, with authentic patterning,
finishing techniques, and trimmings.  I'm always picking up tips and ideas
from this list.

I've just finished my doctorate in history, am getting ready for the great
academic job hunt, and in the meantime am working as an admin. assistant at
a bank.

Susan Carroll-Clark

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 17:46:49 1999
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From: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 16:00:37 PDT
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-Poster: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>


>-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
>On many paintings from the 1500s and 1600s, I noticed slashes in people's
>clothes through which the undergarment showed. These slashes were sometimes
>decorative (as for sleeves), but more often functional, to allow for ease
>without shaping tight garments around the knee, elbow, the knuckles of
>gloves, the hip, one time even the codpiece. Nowwhere was there an
>indication that the edges of these slashes were cared for in any way (so as
>not to fray). My theory is that outer garments were made of fulled wool,
>which doesn't fray.

I took an Ithra class (SCA) on late period clothing, and the instructor said 
many things :] I don't know if they're true or not, but here I go.

If you slash the fabric perfectly diagonally (is this "on the bias?"), it 
shouldn't fray. Especially when you do it to tightly woven fabrics.
Also, they didn't often *wash* their dress clothing, so the only way it 
would fray is through wear. And I don't think it was worn too often, either. 
At least, not every day. My teacher had some examples (ie. she made some 
clothes & passed them around) of slashed garments, and the slashes had only 
frayed about 1/4".

Of course, if you take a look at some of the German paintings, and you see 
the slashes from shoulder to waist, I would say that they would have *had* 
to line them in some way. I haven't studied that, becauseit's in men's 
garments (what I've seen), and I'm only concerned about women's clothing :]

HTH, or at least gives everyone something else to think about :]

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 17:49:34 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005701befafe$f059b280$22aca0d1@j9g8x8>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:02:22 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

If its the stuff I think it is that we have in the UK called Nubuck  a very
thin sliver of real leather stuck to a polymer base and the roughes up to
give a nap. Then the only thing that will work; stay for a while and not
degrade the backing so that it shreds from the inside is;;;; believe it or
not water colour paint , the proper artist stuff .. If the shoes have been
worn and picked up any veneer of dirt things get a bit iffy so you may have
to mix it with a water and avery small amount of acrylic medium;   Mix the
paint with lots of water and get it on quick in a big floos otherwise tyou
get water stain edges.  Two or three maybe more times;
If its not nubuck it wont work, unless they are Hush puppies;;; different
story altogether.
avoid shoe dies the spirit will destroy them unoticeably but then very
sudddenly as your foot warms them up , could be dangerous.
However my only experince of this is starting with light colours and then
making them dark; but you can usually turn them white by sweating a lot.
So you have to start by buying a new pair of shoes;
If its not nubuck its going to be a more manmade material  its going to have
various polymer bases so you have to watch with solvents but you might get
away with car paint aerosols, short burst from a distance build up slowly ;
too much solvent or propellant will make them peel; When finished let them
dry properly and then go over them gently with a stiff wire brush to bring
the nap up. still a long job.
Hope this helps.


Dave
+++++++++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----
From: Broneske <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 9:07 PM
Subject: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question


>
> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede
stuff
> that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  Does
> anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of material
> without ruining it?
>
>
> Joan Broneske
> unicorn@softcom.net
> @-->----------------
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909090149_MC2-8418-E5B5@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Unlurking for 9-9-99 - long
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:32:21 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



 > -Poster: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@compuserve.com>
>
> I'll have to pop up a day early, because I'll be one of those computer
> nerds baby-sitting the computers tomorrow for 9-9-99...  Actualy have a
few
> things to respond to on the current list anyway.
>
 Well I hope it went well. Its now  30 min into the day after and our
systems even the older ones got though with out any glitches.  As we were
going to  a lot of dancing around ,chanting and burning of incense we spent
the 28 hour shift in costume, just in case we all would be looking for a new
job today ; but every thing worked . Our Bbox, even,
 which usually goes down every night almost. so fromnow on we all should
work in costume.
Dave


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <GHFDIFKDKGMDAAAA@shared1-mail.whowhere.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:23:13 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Have you found Dawn Wood at http://www.agesofelegance.com she does georgian
plus wedding stuff as well as historical.
To other listers that remember the thread long  ago about superfine? she
regularly buys from the factory so I will try and get her to remind me of
the name of the place as a couple of you did ask me at the time.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>
 . I've found a designer in the UK that makes very elaborate dresses
(wedding/special ocassion) if I can't manage to make one myself I'll resort
back to her I suppose. Her dresses are beautiful but you know there is
always one thng about a dress that just doesn't seem right, whether it be
colour or fabric, o!


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From: "Tara Stewart" <sioned@iname.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
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-Poster: "Tara Stewart" <sioned@iname.com>

Heyla all.  

I'm a die-hard lurker on most lists, because I either a) never feel like I have anything to add (or it's been added already by the time I get around to it); or b) don't feel like adding it anyway after I get home from work.  I'm here to read and learn. :)  History is a major area of interest for me, and clothing is just another facet that I find interesting.  I *love* reading some of the tangents that this list occasionally goes off on, and I have spent hours going over some of the links that have been posted.

Now back to lurking mode,
Tara  ;)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 18:26:44 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <fe0f7b4e.25092582@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members? Roman query
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:41:18 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Yvonne
check out their website for weekly updates on this and other find;
off hand it www.museumoflondon.com
but you will find it through any search on London really easy.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: BlueMoonYD@aol.com
>
>     I do have a question, though. When I was in London this summer, I was
> told the Museum of London had just found the burial site of a noble Roman
> woman circa 2nd century AD in Spitalfields. Has anyone heard anything more
> about this?
>     Thanks for all the wonderful information!
>                                     Yvonne
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>





>-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>

> I am currently writing up my Ph.D. thesis (which is in _mining_, not
>_costuming_) and don't have much _time_. I still have in my mind, when all
>this is over and I'm awaiting my baby, to take up the idea again of a new
>FAQ list.

 Barbara ,  Are you going to publish, will it be in English?; Mining history
is a bit of a pet subject of mine.To bring this back on topic--- I did once
have to research and provide some costumes for 17th century Cornish tin
miners and brought out a very thin long out of print booklet.
Dave
+++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 18:44:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 16:57:50 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

No I haven't tried her but I will look, thank you. The designer I found was Donna Salado. She has no official website but her collection s on..www,weddings.co.uk I think it is. Not sure I'll have to find it 

thanks for the suggestion though
---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 


>Have you found Dawn Wood at http://www.agesofelegance.com she does georgian
>plus wedding stuff as well as historical.
>To other listers that remember the thread long  ago about superfine? she
>regularly buys from the factory so I will try and get her to remind me of
>the name of the place as a couple of you did ask me at the time.
>Dave
>L.D.Mundy
>Editor.Heritage Matters
>
>>
>> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>>
> . I've found a designer in the UK that makes very elaborate dresses
>(wedding/special ocassion) if I can't manage to make one myself I'll resort
>back to her I suppose. Her dresses are beautiful but you know there is
>always one thng about a dress that just doesn't seem right, whether it be
>colour or fabric, o!
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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-Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net

> >
> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > >_______________________________________________________________________________
> > > Thanks Dave for introducing me so nicely, here's who I am I trained as a fashion designer and worked in industry in yorkshire for a while ( where I'm from) but
> > > moved to London in 1986 to work at the costumiers Berman and Nathans,
> > > I've worked on loads of films both i n house and freelance, I've also
> > > worked at the Royal Opera House, taught costume making to drama students
> > > and every now and again design a fringe show. I have been self employed
> > > for 10 years next week and tend to live a frugal lifestyle as people
> > > don't respect costume makers as a real job and expect you to do things
> > > for peanuts as well as making it yesterday. In order to make a living
> > > you nedd a partner who has a decent income as there aren't enough hours
> > > in the day to sew. Unfortunately my other half is also selfemployed
> > > making metalwork for unifroms etc.( His latest claim to fame is making
> > > the head dresses for Amadala in Star Wars although he didn't know it
> > > until the film came out as the contract was so tight He's also just
> > > worked on Speilbergs Gladiators) so we starve together. I tend not to do
> > > much film work anymore as I can't fit in quick orders as I'm booked up
> > > 4-6 months in advance,last year I made the King of Norways 1608
> > > bodyguard which was a great honour. Unfortunately this doesn't leave
> > > much time to make for me. My re-enactment group recently put on an 18thc
> > > wedding and everyone had new frocks but me AND I helped them! I didn't
> > > even have time to buy the fabric so haven't a five minute excuse to sit
> > > down and do it now when I'm bored with uniforms.
> > > I hope thats answered your questions and look forward to talking to you
> > > all soon.
> >  www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk

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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Wow!  So _this_ is why I had 137 messages today!  It's been fun to read
about all the folks we never hear from, so here's my short-version bio:
graduated a year ago with an MFA in costume design (undergrad in history)
and am now working as a cutter/draper at a small regional theatre and
designing on the side when possible.  I've also finally gotten into the
SCA, doing 16th century.  Once I've updated my website (in a few months...)
there will be pictures of that sort of thing.

I've been off the list for a little over a year and now finally have the
time to enjoy it once more.  It's great to be back!  I've been lurking so
far, but I'm sure you'll hear from me again eventually.

Melanie Schuessler
(and sometimes Melisande)

email to melanie@faucet.net
or visit at http://www.faucet.net/costume


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 19:09:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 17:24:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Hat for Simplicity Elizabethan
To: SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Okay, what goes on your head when wearing the
Simplicity Elizabethan gown?  And remember, I am not a
hat maker!  Thanks.

===
Morgaine of Glastonbury 
MKA Kristen Morgaine Sieber
Barony of Aquaterra MoAS
Kingdom of An Tir
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?
__________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 17:30:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Replying to digests
To: SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        Historic Needlework <h-needlework@ansteorra.org>,
        Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        An Tir list <steps@antir.sca.org>,
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Hi.  This is not a flame, so please don't flame me! 
When you reply to a digest, it is very helpful if you
change the subject line to what you are actually
discussing.  I get a lot of messages and time
necessitates that I automatically skip the messages
that say "RE: Digest #9999", even though I may be
missing something pertinent to my interests.  Thanks
for your time!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
 _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 19:44:26 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Well, I said you'd be hearing from me, and here I am!

Here is another suggestion for scaling up patterns in books.  It's not as
accurate as plotting with CAD, but it requires no special equipment or
computer skills (well, a copy machine is helpful).  It's called radial
projection.

1.  Make a photocopy of the pattern in the book.
2.  Decide how many times larger it needs to be to be roughly the right
size (for example, 1/8" scale patterns will need to be eight times larger
to be their original size--though for some of us, that usually isn't big
enough).  Sometimes you will have to choose a dimension--I can usually make
things big enough around with the radial projection, but then will have to
correct later to make them tall enough (that's step 9).
3.  Cut the paper apart so that each pattern piece is on a separate piece
of paper, but leave a small margin around each pattern shape.  For each one,
4.  Tape the pattern piece to another piece of paper that you think (hope!)
will be large enough for the re-sized pattern.
5.  Pick a spot on the small pattern shape--could be in the center, or in
one corner if there's a nice straight edge somewhere on it--and make a
small dot there.
6.  Draw lines radiating from this point in all directions, making sure
that all major corners of the pattern shape have a line through them and
that you have more than one in each curve.
7.  For each line, measure precisely from the dot to the edge of the small
pattern shape, then multiply that number by the number of times you want to
enlarge the pattern.  Follow the line out to the new larger measurement and
make a dot there.  (Don't give in to the urge to round these numbers up or
down, or you will end up with very strange shapes!)
8.  Connect the dots, being careful to try and recreate the shapes of
curves accurately.
9.  Use this as a base pattern, correcting proportions, etc.

Happy Patterning!
Melanie

email to melanie@faucet.net
or visit at http://www.faucet.net/costume



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 19:32:32 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 17:43:14 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Replying to digests
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

This is not the day for me to be sending to h-costume - according to
Penny..... BUT not only do I agree with that but I find it very confusing
when people respond to a message and then change the subject completely but
leave the same subject line.
I mean what does washing diapers have to do with a subject line that says
*Wool Question*.    Absurd... no.  Some of them are that far off.  Not to
mention the sort of messages like *Thanks Suzy* which could have been sent
off list in the first place.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
>To: SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,Historic Needlework
<h-needlework@ansteorra.org>,Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,An Tir
list <steps@antir.sca.org>,SCA-Arts list <SCA-ARTS@raven.cc.ukans.edu>
>Subject: H-COST: Replying to digests
>Date: Thu, Sep 9, 1999, 5:30 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi.  This is not a flame, so please don't flame me! 
>When you reply to a digest, it is very helpful if you
>change the subject line to what you are actually
>discussing.  I get a lot of messages and time
>necessitates that I automatically skip the messages
>that say "RE: Digest #9999", even though I may be
>missing something pertinent to my interests.  Thanks
>for your time!
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 19:49:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 20:08:32 -0500
From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
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Subject: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep! MM/PP
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

Very nice pattern -- MM/PP Tudor #53.  Thanks for the reference...called my *real*
costumer friend, he had it, now his copy is in my little hands ready to be copied!

Thanks for delurking day, would've never written otherwise.

Are purses hist-cost?  If yes, take a deep breath and click:
www.therealmonicainc.com/  (Forgive me, but SURELY this is at least history?)
Delurk once, and I get carried away!  Thanks again, Renée

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 20:10:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 21:24:35 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hat for Simplicity Elizabethan
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/09/1999 8:27:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lady_gawain@yahoo.com writes:

<< 
 Okay, what goes on your head when wearing the
 Simplicity Elizabethan gown?  And remember, I am not a
 hat maker!  Thanks.
  >>

OR...HOW TO COVER A FELT HAT

I suppose the easiest thing, besides some pearls or something in your hair, 
might be a beret with a brim, thought to be honest, this is really earlier.
I made some lovely hats a while back using some cheap [$12 back then] Pilgrim 
hats I got through a masquerade costume shop. They were presses in 
felt...tall crowns & wide brims. [You could do this with a straw hat if the 
crown is the right shape.] The brims are too wide for this period so I cut 
them down to about 2" and put millinery wire around the new edge by 
zigzagging over the wire. [Millenary wire is springy wire wrapped in thread. 
It comes in black or white and I think Greenburg & Hammer have it. If you 
can't get any, regular wire like from the hardware store will work if springy 
enough. It may rust later, however.]
Then I covered these felt forms with fancy fabrics. To do this trace the brim 
on the fabric. Cut out 2 of these with generous seam allowances. Find the 
center of one by folding it in quarters. Slash it at the center in several 
radiating directions but no larger...in fact shy of the opening for your had 
to go in the hat. This one goes on top, the crown punched through it. You can 
cut some of the center away but let it creep up the crown some....you'll have 
to clip it. Baste everything in place...around the bottom of crown and fold 
the outer edge under [not to the bottom though] & baste it. It will crinkle 
but trim it as close as you dare. The other circle goes on the bottom, 
position it and baste it in place. There's no need to cut the hole for the 
head yet. Carefully fold the outside edge under and blind stitch it to the 
top circle at the edge of the brim...where the wire is. Or trim both top & 
bottom pieces to the edge & bind the brim's edge in fabric or ribbon. Now 
slice the hole & trim & clip it basting the clipped seam allowance up inside 
the crown.
Now the crown. Measure it from the bottom of one side, over the top to the 
other side. Cut a circle with that diameter. Find the center & bast it to the 
top of the crown. Now you can pleat or gather or arrange decoratively the 
outside edge of this circle to fit the crown. Pull it taught all the way 
round! Baste it at the bottom [hopefully overlapping the brim fabric's 
clipped seam allowance]. Cut another circle [of a different color or white] 
for the inside of the crown, evenly pleat it and baste it's edge too, only 
inside. Now sew a 3/4" grosgrain to the inside where a sweat band would go. 
[This could be a leather strip if you wanted] Put the join at CB and a small 
ribbon bow there. You can sew the grosgrain through to the outside of the 
crown as all these stitches & basting get covered up with a Fancy embroidered 
ribbon or fabric band. The grosgrain will stabilize the opening so sew it 
down well. Take out any basting that shows. Add some jewels & feathers and 
VOILA....you are a milliner!

Did you get all that??? :-)

Then there's the coif. I know these are easy & there are patterns out there. 
They can sometimes be worn under hats & berets.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 20:21:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 21:35:36 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hat for Simplicity Elizabethan
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

>OR...HOW TO COVER A FELT HAT

If they're wool felt, you can steam 'em over a tea kettle.  Great for shaping!

Donna Kenton


Visit my web page!  http://www.dabbler.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 20:41:51 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Busks
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 21:49:14 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

>Megan, have you tried http://www.farthingales.on.ca/clasps.htm#busks ?

I have now.  Thankyou.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 20:41:53 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Laughing Moon corset (was OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!)
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 21:59:58 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

 >My husband thinks it's weird that I go
>through all the effort to make something that I end up
>wearing around the house.

Funny - I have no place to actually wear the corset and chemise I'm gonna
make this winter either.  Maybe it's because you and I have the same
name........  (But when I showed my husband the picture on the pattern
envelope he didn't seem to mind)


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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:00:07 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question : FOLLOWUP ?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:02 AM 09/10/1999 +0100, "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk> wrote:
>If its the stuff I think it is that we have in the UK called Nubuck  a very
>thin sliver of real leather stuck to a polymer base and the roughes up to
>give a nap. Then the only thing that will work; stay for a while and not
>degrade the backing so that it shreds from the inside is;;;; believe it or
>not water colour paint , the proper artist stuff .. ... <snip> ...Hope
this helps. --Dave
>+++++++++++++++++++++
>> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede stuff
>> that makes your feet sweat, ... <snip> ...
             Dave--If this is a water color, won't it come off on sweaty
feet/the socks covering them?  Just wondering.  Thank you for your
thoughts/experience. -- Carol
    
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 9/9/99:  Delightful!
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:21:09 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>




>From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

>Okay, I confess, I am a lurker.  What now?  Forced to talk, you say.  What 
>is this world coming to?
>
>Penny asked if the lurkers were introverts.  I would have to say not 
>necessarily.  I am primarily a lurker (with an occasional post) and am 
>actually quite the extrovert.  By the time I have hit the keyboard at the 
>end of a long day, I am simply too tired to join in the many interesting 
>conversations on this list, as well as other lists I lurk.  Therefore, I 
>have become perfectly content with reading.  I enjoy the questions, the 
>answers, the informative posts, and admittedly even the occasional 
>argument.  Hey, Jerry Springer is just too much for me.  I will settle with 
>a good costuming debate any day.
>
Well... sometimes this list can get a *bit* like Jerry Springer!

I found this comment so interesting --extrovert in real life, "introvert" 
--or quiet --on the list.  Although in the past I have been quite the 
extrovert on the list, I am in truth an introvert in real life.  My fiance 
is always saying, "Now, it's your turn to talk.  You tell me a story, for 
once."  And I can't ever think of a darn thing to say.  But give me a 
keyboard-- and look out!

This was a delightful idea, Penny.  Thank you.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 21:09:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 19:26:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: ;-(  *sigh*
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Please?  Anyone?  I know that my earlier e-mail went
out because I rec'd a copy... I still am searching for
help on my hat question...

On the up side, I did make the 1920's slip dress that
Vogue put out recently... great pattern... relatively
simple if you pay attention (I didn't and ended up
taking the whole thing apart again ;-)).  

Sarah


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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:35:11 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>


Yes. This is exactly what it was for.  That, and making one sit & stand up 
straight, with good posture.  Altho' --there are strapless versions.  JP 
Ryan's is fine for making a serviceable 1770s working corset *without* 
straps.  I use basket reed and steels for the boning, steels on the seams, 
reed in between, and although you usually have to replace one or two during 
the year, they are very comfortable and easy to wear.  And cheap... a whole 
reel of 1/2" reed costs about 7 bucks & makes dozens of corsets, with 30 to 
40 bones apiece.  Just cut them to length, round off the ends, rub them with 
wax, and insert.

Susannah

>-Poster: "Mary HInton" <mary_hinton@my-deja.com>
>
>Re Tudor stays and the teenager who didn't like the shoulder straps.
>
>I think both N Waugh and Cunnington state that the shoulder straps also 
>serve to narrow the back and expand the chest - this is more than just 
>keeping the stays in place.  I am sure a present day teenager might find 
>this a bit uncomfortable.  I have seen pictures of 18C stays where the 
>shoulder strap goes from the high boned back, forward and down over the 
>shoulder and fastens quite a way back under the arm.  I am not sure if this 
>was to give the wide neckline,  and/or to pull the shoulders back.
>
>---Mary



"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 22:40:58 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

Sarah,
	if you don't think you will be able to get the hat done by Friday, I do
have a repro beaded (with elastic headband). One is gray and one is a gold
tone. They $20
Let me know if you need it.

At 12:28 PM 9/9/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>Alright!  I just can't STAND it anymore!  There is NO
>WAY I can keep my mouth shut for a WHOLE DAY!
>
>*phew*  I feel better.
>
>I actually have a very important question that has a
>time constraint, or I would have kept quiet until
>tomorrow...
>
>I bought the 1920's hat pattern from Past Patterns...
>I made the large size, and it is too small for my
>head!  Argh!  Has anyone used this pattern?  If so,
>did you run into this problem, and how did you fix it?
> Please help... we are putting on a 1920's coctail
>party on Saturday night and I REALLY need this.
>
>Oh, and thanks for the laugh.
>
>> in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said!
>> Somehow that looks awful when written.) In the same
>
>Sarah
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 21:29:40 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Busks
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:43:46 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I have ordered from Farthingales and they not only have the busks, their 
service is impeccable.  Greenberg & Hammer's prices were a bit high, but 
they have the very short ones (9") for shrimps like me.
I have also ordered them from
Saundra Altman (pastpat@thepoint.net)   or thru her website   
www.pastpatterns.com

Although she doesn't carry them in her catalog anymore, she has oodles of 
them in her shop & might still be persuaded to part with them if you can't 
find the correct size anywhere else.

Susannah


>From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Busks
>Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 08:57:01 -0500
>
>
>-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
>
>Megan, have you tried http://www.farthingales.on.ca/clasps.htm#busks ?
>
>HTH, Renée (delurking for 2nd time today!)
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:48:37 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Did you try calling Saundra directly and asking her about it?  She is always 
very helpful on the phone, and wants you to be happy with her patterns.  She 
will have a good idea for expanding the hat, I just know.
Susannah


>From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
>Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 22:40:58 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>
>Sarah,
>	if you don't think you will be able to get the hat done by Friday, I do
>have a repro beaded (with elastic headband). One is gray and one is a gold
>tone. They $20
>Let me know if you need it.
>
>At 12:28 PM 9/9/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Alright!  I just can't STAND it anymore!  There is NO
> >WAY I can keep my mouth shut for a WHOLE DAY!
> >
> >*phew*  I feel better.
> >
> >I actually have a very important question that has a
> >time constraint, or I would have kept quiet until
> >tomorrow...
> >
> >I bought the 1920's hat pattern from Past Patterns...
> >I made the large size, and it is too small for my
> >head!  Argh!  Has anyone used this pattern?  If so,
> >did you run into this problem, and how did you fix it?
> > Please help... we are putting on a 1920's coctail
> >party on Saturday night and I REALLY need this.
> >
> >Oh, and thanks for the laugh.
> >
> >> in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said!
> >> Somehow that looks awful when written.) In the same
> >
> >Sarah
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >
>
>Cordially,
>
>Sue Shatto
>
>Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
>http://www.VictorianMillinery.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

______________________________________________________
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 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 21:39:47 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:53:33 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Why don't you try felting it?  We do this all the time with lighter weight 
woolens to thicken them up & make them toasty for capes, coats, etc.  Wash 
with detergent in hot water, then rinse in very cold water.  Use your 
washing machine.  Dry in the dryer.  Voila!  Very nice, thick wool.

Susannah
>
>I don't know if I'm an "in" or an "ex" but I have a question just the same.
>
>Before I send back this wool that I thought was at least 13 oz.
>
>Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
>lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and if I
>was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this material. As
>it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and wanted a
>heavier weight.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>~Kyna (who sometimes lurks...sometimes saves posts to read later and
>sometimes even butts into the conversation)
>  ----
>ICQ#12859312
>Grannd Garb
>Historic Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
>http://GranndGarb.com
>
>http://TheMarketSquare.com
>COMING SOON!! Ask for details about your selling space now.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 12:24 AM
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>
>
> >
> > -Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
> >
> > At 07:32 PM 09/08/1999 , you wrote:
> > >
> > >-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> > >
> > >           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to 
>be.
>I
> > >read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol
> >
> > What she said! :->
> >
> > Svanny
> >
> >
> > Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
> >    Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
> >   kittykat@primenet.com
> >   ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
> >   AIM: SvanhildrV
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 21:51:30 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Elaine Benfatto <benfatto@mediaone.net>
Subject: H-COST: Glove pattern
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-Poster: Elaine Benfatto <benfatto@mediaone.net>

A few weeks ago someone on this list was looking for a pattern to sew kid
gloves for herself. This evening I happened to stumble on some pretty
extensive instructions in an old library book:

Novel Materials
Editor: David L. Harrison
(from the series: The Art of Sewing, edited
by Carlotta Erwin)
New York: Time-Life Books, 1974

The glove chapter falls on pages 70-83. It contains patterns, special
instructions on preparing the leather for gloves (things I'd never seen in
any other leather book!) and sewing instructions for a couple of different
glove styles. It looks quite interesting!

Elaine
(who is also delurking for the first time tonight!)


Elaine Benfatto (Cambridge, MA)
benfatto@mediaone.net
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/benfatto/


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 22:00:20 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: OT: Anti-lurk day
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

I usually lurk, because my interest area is pretty darn obscure: the dress 
of the mixed-blood (i.e. half-breed) 'country wives' of Canadian fur 
traders, 1774-1821. My last project was sewing a new, more historically 
correct pair of knee-high leggins of red Melton cloth just in time for the 
Rocky Mountain House bicentennial in July. Then Joan Jurancich (hi!) very 
politely pointed out I was wearing them sideways. Thanks, Joan! (Really!) 
And thanks to everyone who's answered the questions I've occasionally posted 
to the list over the last three years. 

Your obliged and obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 22:26:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 22:39:50 +0000
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Anne Gast <agast@tds.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:De-Lurking
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-Poster: Anne Gast <agast@tds.net>

OK, I have built my courage enough to delurk.  This is worse than talking
to a room full of people.  (I guess, this is talking to more than a
roomful.)  

I make costumes for IFGS and Magic Horizens, my live action, live combat
(foam weapons, no pain), medieval/fantasy role-playing groups.  

I lurk because I feel I don't know enough to contribute, but I love
learning from this list and from the books recommended.  I especially
enjoyed the Irish costuming threads.

I have wondered when the bagged sleeves on leines started appearing.  Or
conversely, what period is it appropiate not to have them? 

Anne
Madison, Wisconsin






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 22:47:27 1999
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-Poster: Gwnvr@aol.com

  OK, I have about fifteen minutes to speak up I guess.  I only occasionally 
de-lurk to ask questions but I learn so much from reading.  Ironically, I 
hate to sew...I just love to wear costumes and I 'm not happy unless they're 
"right" or as right as I can reasonably get them.  I work as a historical 
interpreter for a museum and do historical dancing.  I sew when I need 
something to wear.  I could never begin to sew on the level of most of you.  
I'm adequate but forget trying to enlarge patterns from books or drape 
muslins, etc.  It's way beyond me.  Still I enjoy following along vicariously 
and seeing your creations online. 
   (I have a report card from kindergarten that says, "Jennifer  is a bright 
little girl but she spends too much time playing in the dress up room being a 
princess.  Please encourage her to spend more time at the science table and 
the math corner."  I'm still wondering how much time is "too much" for a five 
year old to spend playing dress-up???? Apparently I 'm still trying to get 
back in there!!!)

                                             Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 22:58:32 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 21:12:43 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hi there

Would it be possible to recover them? Maybe you could find a fabric or a 
light-weight leather (ie garmet weight pig skin) in the shade you want and 
just stitch it over the offending black pseudo-suede by hand.
As for finding the leather, Tandy has a website which is taking the place of 
most of their stores. Don't know the exact e-dress so you'll have to use 
your favorite search engine and look it up.

De-lurking for the second time.

Lonna (Enyd)


>From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
>Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:22:29 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
> > I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede 
>stuff
> > that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  Does
> > anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of material
> > without ruining it?
>
>wow.  I suspect you are stuck with black shoes.  Not because of the
>fabric/materials but because once something is black, it's pretty much 
>black
>for life.  Unless you have bleach and then it's probably going to be gray.  
>I
>could, of course, be mistaken about this.  You could certainly paint it 
>with a
>paint that would cover it but the paint would probably ruin the shoes in 
>the
>end.
>
>Cynthia
>--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Bornover
>Barony of Madrone
>Kingdom of An Tir
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 23:37:39 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 20:14:42 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:40 PM 09/09/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: Sue Shatto
<Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>
>Sarah,
>	if you don't think you will be able to get the hat done by Friday, I do
>have a repro beaded (with elastic headband). One is gray and one is a gold
>tone. They $20
>Let me know if you need it.
                 I have dealt with Sue and am very happy with her and the
hat she sold me. -- Carol, who rec's and expects no stipend for saying any
of this ... 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 23:57:46 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 01:09:52 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Victorian "Fancy Dress"
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

I have committed to do a (slide) lecture for the local Victorian Society in 
October on ideas for costumes for our Victorian "masked ball" next January.  
I have found Planche 1881and Strutt (rare book room) in our library catalogs, 
as well as the Butterick Masquerade book for 1892.  I purchased the new book 
on Canadian "Magnificent Entertainments" by Cynthia Cooper. I haven't checked 
yet on the dates, but I think that Vecellio, Racinet, and Braun & Schneider 
came out before 1900 (and are now in Dover reprint.)

This is only a 45 minute lecture, but I would like to make a listing of books 
(especially cheap Dover reprints) for a handout.  What have I missed?  Is 
there anything with color plates?  

Does anyone want to sell me copies of their slides?

As you might know, I usually lecture and do workshops on corsets and other 
"body-shaping garments" so I don't have much on this topic, unless I own the 
books for some other reason.  I haven't had time to check them all yet.  

Thanks to you all for delurking and for the useful thread on the Laughing 
Moon corset, chemise, and kit.  I too am a very satisfied customer of 
Farthingales for supplies.

Joan McTeer
Minneapolis
(who by now has missed the 9/9/99 deadline!)
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-Poster: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)



>
>I don't contribute much for several reasons --
>
>  1)  I don't have a great deal of time to spend on-line, and most of that
>time is taken
>      up just READING the messages......
>
>  2)  Most of the messages aren't dealing with timeframes or garments I have
>      much knowledge about or interest in......
>
>   3)  Frequently, when I DO find something that I could respond to --- I go
>down several more messages and find that someone has already answered it!
>


I'm in the same boat, especially since I can't always read my mail
everyday.  Imagine my surprise to find nearly 200 messages since I last
checked on Tuesday evening!  By the time I find out about a thread, its
usually over.  Even this is almost past schedule.

Kaitlin
Karolee


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 00:35:40 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 22:29:57 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Medieval Misc. patterns tend to be awful - I can't recommend them. They
say they were drafted by Laurels of the SCA but they don't say they were
drafted by *costuming* Laurels.  I can't make heads or tails of them
either so they weren't drafted by calligraphy and Illumination Laurels
either.

I'm not really lurking - I just rejoined the list a few days ago after
about a 6 month hiatus.   Due mostly to becoming the SCA's Society
Exchequer, so I've been furiously trying to get the financials done and
off to the CPA.  Thank god that's almost done.

What's next?  Making a corset for a friend in Canada who just recently
joined the SCA, and doesn't have the guts to try making one herself.
Then some new Regencies for next year's Costume College, and maybe an
Edwardian Ballgown.  In the more immediate future, a new Italian for
Crown next weekend (god willing the spreadsheets not falling apart).

Carolyn (aka Tetchubah)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 00:35:51 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Thanks to everyone who replied about my shoe dyeing question.  I think that
perhaps I might try to cover them since that may be the best looking way of
doing it.  Thanks again.

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 00:39:31 1999
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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: patterns, gingham
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>- -Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
>
>A trick I learned was to make the initial one out of gingham.  Make sure
>it's the woven check, not the printed one.  It's more expensive than
>muslin, but you can see the grain lines so much easier, which makes it
>easier for me to use.
>
Also, if you use the 1" check, it makes an automatic grid for scaling up
patterns - just draw on the gingham!

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 01:16:53 1999
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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:25:42 +1000
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

From: AnnoraK@aol.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon

Re: Georgia's question about the Laughing Moon corset pattern -- I built my 
first corset last month using this pattern.  I made the Dore Straight Seam 
out of coutil, with an outside layer of moire.  I followed their suggestions

of making a muslin and doing two test fittings.  I had to trim back the 
underarm areas about 1/2" - 3/4", but other than that, it went together 
smoothly and easily, even with feline interference.  But, then I was sorta 
paranoid about screwing the whole thing up, so did everything by the rules, 
tracing out all lines and markings and all the other stuff that I usually 
don't do with the rest of my projects.

One suggestion, though -- trace out the pattern onto butcher paper, if you 
weren't planning to already.  
--

Thanks Jen.

One other question - has anybody made the pattern *with* the gores? I'm very
busty, and very hourglass, so I'll have to be making that one :-)

Cheers
Georgia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 01:24:30 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Well, I *finally* finished my gown for the Northern California Renaissance
Pleasure Faire. I sewed the buttons on just before I got dressed on this
past Saturday morning <whew!>.

It's a midnight blue velveteen with three rows of gold braid down each skirt
front. The high-bodied bodice has two different gold/black braids; one kind
on the shoulder seams and another on the center back seam, collar seams, and
around the edges of the sleeve caps. The buttons down the front (all
functional) are a mounded golden metal filagree about 5/8th inches in
diameter with two matching 3/8th-inch-diameter ones for the collar. This
time I attached the bodice to the skirt since I am tired of trying to keep
from having gaposis; besides, that means that  I don't need to have
something *else* tight about the waist, the farthingale and underskirt are
enough, thank you <g>. Since I had a pair of sleeves I had made several
years ago, and enough of the fabric and trim, I decided to make a matching
forepart for the underskirt; it's a salmon-pink textured velvet (intended
for upholstery) with four rows of two kinds of bright gold trim, one a lace
and one a braid (sort of). The four rows go down the center of the skirt to
about 3 inches above the hem, then split and go across the bottom, following
the curve of the hem (with two additional rows added to keep with the 4-row
theme). Oh, the sleeves are lined with saffron-coloured cotton <g>, makes
them very colourful.

I don't have any pictures, but if anyone on the list visited the Renaissance
Pleasure Faire (in Vacaville, CA, at the Nut Tree) this past weekend, you
may have seen me (aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the
Queen) in attendance upon Her Grace. And yes, it was hot, and I sweated a
lot, but, boy, do we look good! <VBG> I'll be back at Faire for the last
four weekends (September 25 through October 17). Hope to see you there!



Joan Jurancich
aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the Queen [RPFN]
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 05:13:12 1999
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th century enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!

Like Jennifer, I dislike sewing and only make what I feel I really need for reenactment purposes, so my contributions to the list are mainly on social history, word definitions etc. Joining this list has made me more authenticity-conscious, especially as my present role as a civilian musician in the Sealed Knot brings me into much more direct contact with the public than in my previous career as a musketeer. The hot weather we've had this summer has made me decide that my next project must be a sleeveless bodice which will be cooler than my woollen one.

Kate Bunting
King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 06:00:47 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Victorian Dress Book
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 99 07:20:41 -0000
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-Poster: <mkings@earthlink.net>

Ah ha! I can unlurk and contribute at the same time!!

To Joan:

 "Victorian Fashions & Costumes From Harpers Bazaar: 1867-1898 - 
Published by Dover - Introduction by Stella Blum - part of their 
pictorial archive series - first published in 1974 - I found on ebay, do 
not know if still published, is black & white but has over 1000 
illustrationsxz from fashion plates.

To quote from the blurb on the back cover of the book. " These 
illustrations not only give you what apparel appealed...but give you an 
idea of the evolutionary nature of fashion as well.

Good descriptions of the outfit - illustrations are superb - shows 
accessories and underpinnings as well.

Margo King in Potomac
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 08:42:37 1999
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: JPMcTeer@aol.com
cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Fancy dress reprint
In-Reply-To: <215d042b.2509eca0@aol.com>
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-Poster: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 JPMcTeer@aol.com wrote:
>
>I have committed to do a (slide) lecture for the local Victorian Society in 
>October on ideas for costumes for our Victorian "masked ball" next January.  
>I have found Planche 1881and Strutt (rare book room) in our library catalogs, 
>as well as the Butterick Masquerade book for 1892.  I purchased the new book 
>on Canadian "Magnificent Entertainments" by Cynthia Cooper. I haven't checked 
>yet on the dates, but I think that Vecellio, Racinet, and Braun & Schneider 
>came out before 1900 (and are now in Dover reprint.)

Don't know if any of these would be of interest to your group, but....
We have just reprinted the Butterick Masquerade and Carnival Book,
1892.  We also publish other small costume booklets on dress of the 19th
and early 20th Centuries, primarily aimed at helping Vintage Dancers.


Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net   Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 09:03:08 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Strike is over!!!
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 10:12:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Boy, it was very tempting to jump on that Civil War uniform question, but I
sat on my hands!!!  Margo did a great job of going cold turkey!  R. L. I
love to pick on you, I know you haven't been on for a while, because of that
bad server, but we love your input.  And I for one have missed you not being
on the list.  Melanie, I am so happy you are back on the list.

For the lurkers...
I am SO proud of you!  WOW! What great intros and questions.  For those of
you who commented that you couldn't sew, I can't sew anymore.  Too many
years behind the sewing machine did my back in.  Four years ago when I first
came on this list, I was a college student who knew little about historic
costume.  I have learned so much from this list and made some really good
friends.  I have even had the chance to meet some of you when traveling
through Richmond, or at conventions or museum exhibit openings.  My family
and Miss Mela's family even spent the 4th of July together (1812 overtune
with real cannons).  A lot of the great opportunities I have had are because
of some of the people I have met on this list. Heck, I have even located two
very distant internet cousins on the list, Doris and Hope.  My hat is off to
all of you!

BUT lurkers please continue to speak up and let us know you are there!  I am
so glad you all introduced yourselves!  Extroverts are like a butterfly in a
room of beautiful flowers.  We want to see and meet every flower and each
flower makes up a beautiful garden.  So keep on talking lurkers.  If you
have a question, chances are other people had the same question but were
afraid to ask.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 09:06:25 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Button holes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 10:16:07 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I was watching Alfred Hitchcock presents the other night.  Mr. Hitchcock
stated that buttons were invented 100 years prior to buttonholes.  Is this
true???

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 09:55:45 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:08:31 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

Greetings!

Am looking for advice from those of you who know about sewing 
with leather.

I picked up a wonderful piece of navy blue leather (not sure if blue 
leather is period, but it looks and feels great!) and I want to make a 
16th century man's doublet out of it.

I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a 
leather sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and 
should go through the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer 
stitches than I would with woven fabric.

I'm thinking about using some slashing and pinking to add interest 
and line it with a bright, contrasting color to show off the slashes. 
Any suggestions on the slashes? Should I keep them smaller (1/2 
inch or so big) so that the leather won't stretch? Seems to me (the 
book is at home so I can't reference it now) that the pictures I've 
seen in Janet Arnold show the pinking and slashing to be fairly 
small.

As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled 
seam when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together, 
trim one seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam 
allowances in the same direction with the longer one on top, then 
top stitch in place (just like regular flat felled only the raw edge isn't 
turned under to keep bulk down). Anyone have experience, 
suggestions on seaming leather? For sewing leather to fabric 
lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual (with longer stitch 
length). Will this work?

I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the 
pattern pieces anyway you want.

I plan to use three layers: lining, interlining, and leather. Usually 
when I make a doublet or bodice, I treat the lining and interlining as 
one unit. Would it be better to use the interlining (which is the layer 
that will show under the leather) and the leather as one unit 
instead. Or does it matter?

Any other caveats?

Thanks!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 10:14:16 1999
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From: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@princeton.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Button holes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 11:27:31 -0400
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-Poster: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>

On-line Encyclopedia Britannica says about buttons:

button

usually disklike piece of solid material having holes or a shank through
which it is sewed to one side of an article of clothing and used to
fasten or close the garment by passing through a loop or hole in the
other side. Purely decorative, nonutilitarian buttons are also
frequently used on clothing. 

The ancient Greeks and Etruscans fastened their tunics at the
shoulders with buttons and loops. In medieval Europe, garments
were laced together or fastened with brooches or clasps and points,
until buttonholes were invented in the 13th century. 

[rest of item truncated as inapplicable.]
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From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
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-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>

Everyone...thanks to a wonderful list member I now know what kind of
braid..but I still have no idea what the best attachment method for it
is.  Help!

MeriBeth
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

.. a whole 
>reel of 1/2" reed costs about 7 bucks & makes dozens of corsets, with 30 to 
>40 bones apiece.  Just cut them to length, round off the ends, rub them with 
>wax, and insert.

Do you have a mail order source for reed?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc & other things
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 10:29 PM 09/09/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>Medieval Misc. patterns tend to be awful - I can't recommend them. They
>say they were drafted by Laurels of the SCA but they don't say they were
>drafted by *costuming* Laurels.

That, and these patterns have been around a *long*  time.  For all we know,
they may have been created back in the first few years of the SCA, when the
standards were much, much, lower.  

Does anyone know anything definitive about the history of this company?  How
long they've been around, who did the patterns, etc?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

..
>We have just reprinted the Butterick Masquerade and Carnival Book,
>1892. 

well, that might explain why I've been unable to resell the 1900 edition
that my husband spent a small fortune on.  Rats.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 12:07:51 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Margo did a great job of going cold turkey! 

Thanks Penny!  It wasn't easy, but it was worth it to hear from all the lurkers.

I've had several people ask me lately how and why  I manage to spend so much
time on the list.  the "how" is that I'm a speed reader, so it takes me less
than an hour to read 300+ emails a day. 

The reason why I spend so much time here is that I'm a full time mother of
small  children.  This list is the only way I get to talk to adults who are
interested in the same things as I am, rather than the Stepford Moms at the
bus stop.  I really believe that I would not be as good a mother as I am if
I didn't have H-costume to provide me with a social life and some
intellectual stimulation.  Thanks, everyone!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 12:19:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 12:32:33 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
References: <37D73BA0.6C6C6B53@bc.sympatico.ca> <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Linda Yordy wrote:
> Am looking for advice from those of you who know about sewing
> with leather.

BTDT....have a leather cotehardie I *really* need to finish!
 
<snip>
> I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a
> leather sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and
> should go through the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer
> stitches than I would with woven fabric.

I would *definately* get leather needles!  But I use the same stitch
length I do on woven fabrics (2 on my machine).

> I'm thinking about using some slashing and pinking to add interest
> and line it with a bright, contrasting color to show off the slashes.
> Any suggestions on the slashes? Should I keep them smaller (1/2
> inch or so big) so that the leather won't stretch? Seems to me (the
> book is at home so I can't reference it now) that the pictures I've
> seen in Janet Arnold show the pinking and slashing to be fairly
> small.

I haven't done slashes in leather so am not sure of this.  If the lining
is sturdy I shouldn't think that you need be concerned about the leather
stretching.
 
> As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled
> seam when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together,
> trim one seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam
> allowances in the same direction with the longer one on top, then
> top stitch in place (just like regular flat felled only the raw edge
> isn't turned under to keep bulk down). Anyone have experience,
> suggestions on seaming leather? For sewing leather to fabric
> lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual (with longer stitch
> length). Will this work?

This is what *I* do.  I cut the leather with a 1/4" seam allowance on a
*slant* (slant cut so that the 'outer' edge is on the right side and the
shallower is on the wrong).  Then I just sew it together.  No problems. 
There are even tools available from leather making stores (such as
Tandy) that allow one to 'shave' leather before seaming it (which is
what the Leather God I know of here in town does).  IOW you can reduce
the thickness of the leather just at the seam line.  I hope this made
sense, I'm sick today!

> I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
> I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the
> pattern pieces anyway you want.

You only need to worry about marks on the leather.
 
> I plan to use three layers: lining, interlining, and leather. Usually
> when I make a doublet or bodice, I treat the lining and interlining as
> one unit. Would it be better to use the interlining (which is the
> layer that will show under the leather) and the leather as one unit
> instead. Or does it matter?

Good question...I rarely use more than two layers with anything but if
you're slashing I would think that treating the interlining and the
lining as one piece would be fine and might even be preferable to
treating the leather and interlining as one piece.

Kat
waiting with bated breath to see what others say about this!
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 10:43:12 -0700
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> BTDT....have a leather cotehardie I *really* need to finish!
> waiting with bated breath to see what others say about this!

*I'm* waiting with bated breath to hear all about a leather cotehardie.
Ack!!  Sounds hot.  In more ways than one.  ;->  Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------90374ADD723BF6B9F88B9432
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> May I please ask for details of where the boning can be purchased from?
> Living
> in the UK which is part of the EU now means that I can order from Germany
> without all the problems with paying import duty and so on. Which is the
> main
> problem that I have with buying from the USA so a more 'local' source would
> be very handy.
>
> Thanks and best wishes
>
> Lissa
>
Here I have to point you to my friend Alexa in Munich (who has got the
baroque costume website http://www.marquise.de , by the way), she
ordered a larger quantity of  the plastic boning for our workshop.
Maybe she can also provide you with adresses for ordering.
Her e-mail is alexa@marquise.de

Many greetings,
Diana

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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>May I please ask for details of where the boning can be purchased from?
Living
in the UK which is part of the EU now means that I can order from Germany
without all the problems with paying import duty and so on. Which is the
main&nbsp;
problem that I have with buying from the USA so a more 'local' source would
be very handy.

Thanks and best wishes

Lissa</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
Here I have to point you to my friend Alexa in Munich (who has got the
baroque costume website <A HREF="http://www.marquise.de">http://www.marquise.de</A> , by the way), she ordered
a larger quantity of&nbsp; the plastic boning for our workshop.
<BR>Maybe she can also provide you with adresses for ordering.
<BR>Her e-mail is alexa@marquise.de

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana</HTML>

--------------90374ADD723BF6B9F88B9432--



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 12:47:05 1999
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From: "Mary McGuire" <mary@ghg.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: costuming books on ebay
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-Poster: "Mary McGuire" <mary@ghg.net>

I have noticed that several members have posted costuming books that they
have up on ebay, so I hope that my venture out of lurking isn't against list
etiquette.  I have several books up, including these that would be of list
interest.  Go here to find them:
http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&us
erid=mdbk&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25

IL Cappello Da Donna, Women's Hats by Adele Campione

A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration and Use of Arms and Armor in All
Countries and in All Times,Together  with Some Closely Related Subjects by
George Cameron Stone

Historical Coiffures, Historical Supplements Published by the Gallia
Institute in the Gallia Messenger  (Look at this one especially.  Even if
your're not interested in getting it, it is something to see.)

Grandmother's Hope Chest, French Sewing by Machine by Martha Pullen

Antique Clothing, French Sewing by Machine by Martha Pullen

Heirloom Sewing for Women, French Sewing by Machine by Martha Pullen

17th and 18th Century Costume, Victoria & Albert Museum Large Picture Book
No.9

The Kashmir Shawl by John Irwin, Victoria & Albert Museum, Museum Monograph
29

Vintage Fashions for Women, 1920's-1940's with values by Kristina Harris

Victorian and Edwardian Fashion, A Photographic Survey by Alison Gernsheim

European Arms and Armor by Charles Henry Ashdown

I'll be putting up more, but slowly.
Thanks,
Mary










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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 11:09:34 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Pacific NW Exhibits
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3019806574_117666_MIME_Part
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Victoria Rivers -- will be visiting Seattle on October 21-22 to speak at a
Thursday evening opening at Material Possessions and to give a "collections
seminar" at the Henry Gallery the following noon, October 22nd.  Victoria is
a professor of textile history and studio fiber arts at UC, Davis.  Her
visit will coincide with the Thames & Hudson publication of her new book,
*The Shining Cloth*.  She will be using pieces from the  Henry's collection
to illustrate points from the book in her talk.   
Contact Judy Sourakli at the Henry Gallery (543-2281) or me (441-4459) for
further details.

The Vincent Collection will have an exhibit at the Bainbridge Public
Library, entitled *Facinatin' Rhythm* it features evening gowns and wraps
from 1920 to 1940. September 26th, to October 3rd

*Songet - Gilt Cloth of Indonesia*.  19th & 20th century gold and silver
embellished textiles worn on ceremonial occasions in Sumatra and Malaysia.  
 Material Possessions gallery. 1932 First Ave #610. Seattle, WA 98101. 
Contact Linda Beeman  206-41-4459.  Oct 21 through Dec 31.

*Woven Symbols: Chinese Garments and Textiles*.  Seattle Asian Art Museum. 
Volunteer Park. Seattle, WA.  through 4/2/00.

*Talking Fingers: Contemporary Weavings from the Northern Northwest Coast*. 
Seattle Art Museum.  Seattle, WA  through 4/23/00.

*Textiles and Temples in Northeast India*.  Presentation by Robb Shep at the
Seattle Textile & Rug Society on Oct 14th.  206-325-8907. email 
stars.1@usa.net

*Broken Threads - From Aryanization to Cultural Loss: The Destruction of the
Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria*.  includes 40 costumes. 
Vancouver Holocaust Ed. Centre. 50-950 W. 41 St. Vancouver, BC V5Z 2N7. 
804-264-0499.  through 5/15/00.

*Woman of Fashion: Guendolen Plestcheeff Collection.  Museum of History and
Industry. Seattle.  through Oct 14.

~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

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<TT>Victoria Rivers -- will be visiting Seattle on October 21-22 to speak a=
t a Thursday evening opening at Material Possessions and to give a &quot;col=
lections seminar&quot; at the Henry Gallery the following noon, October 22nd=
.  Victoria is a professor of textile history and studio fiber arts at UC, D=
avis.  Her visit will coincide with the Thames &amp; Hudson publication of h=
er new book, *The Shining Cloth*.  She will be using pieces from the  Henry'=
s collection to illustrate points from the book in her talk.   <BR>
Contact Judy Sourakli at the Henry Gallery (543-2281) or me (441-4459) for =
further details.<BR>
<BR>
The Vincent Collection will have an exhibit at the Bainbridge Public Librar=
y, entitled *Facinatin' Rhythm* it features evening gowns and wraps from 192=
0 to 1940. September 26th, to October 3rd<BR>
<BR>
*Songet - Gilt Cloth of Indonesia*.  19th &amp; 20th century gold and silve=
r embellished textiles worn on ceremonial occasions in Sumatra and Malaysia.=
    Material Possessions gallery. 1932 First Ave #610. Seattle, WA 98101.  C=
ontact Linda Beeman  206-41-4459.  Oct 21 through Dec 31.<BR>
<BR>
*Woven Symbols: Chinese Garments and Textiles*.  Seattle Asian Art Museum. =
 Volunteer Park. Seattle, WA.  through 4/2/00.<BR>
<BR>
*Talking Fingers: Contemporary Weavings from the Northern Northwest Coast*.=
  Seattle Art Museum.  Seattle, WA  through 4/23/00.<BR>
<BR>
*Textiles and Temples in Northeast India*.  Presentation by Robb Shep at th=
e Seattle Textile &amp; Rug Society on Oct 14th.  206-325-8907. email  stars=
.1@usa.net<BR>
<BR>
*Broken Threads - From Aryanization to Cultural Loss: The Destruction of th=
e Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria*.  includes 40 costumes.  V=
ancouver Holocaust Ed. Centre. 50-950 W. 41 St. Vancouver, BC V5Z 2N7.  804-=
264-0499.  through 5/15/00.<BR>
<BR>
*Woman of Fashion: Guendolen Plestcheeff Collection.  Museum of History and=
 Industry. Seattle.  through Oct 14.<BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3019806574_117666_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 12:58:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 13:11:28 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
References: <37D73BA0.6C6C6B53@bc.sympatico.ca> <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu> <37D940B1.781CC2B5@home.com> <37D9432F.20BFC6C3@serv.net>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
> 
> *I'm* waiting with bated breath to hear all about a leather
> cotehardie. Ack!!  Sounds hot.  In more ways than one.  ;->  Merouda

I've got the main body almost done (center front is open still).  I need
to put in the lining and put on the sleeves although at this point I'm
probably going to make them tie-ons.  It's out of a midnight to navy
blue light to medium weight leather with the suede side out.  Because
it's a floor length I had to use three different sides to cut it out. 
It's seven panels (the back was cut on the fold) and will lace up the
front to a square neckline.  If I'm wearing it anywhere that isn't air
conditioned or cold I plan on wearing a farthingale under it to hold the
skirt away from my body.  It's really not that heavy and once I'm done
with the GS leader uniform and find my leader handbook and get the
brownie troop started and figure out how I'm going to pay for two more
root canals I *may* get it done!!  Oh, and the sleeves are cut to come
to my knuckles with a slight flare at the bottom from the wrist.

Kat
the truly exhausted!
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Subject: H-COST: re: medieval miscellania
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I don't know anything about the company, but the patterns have been around 
since I've been in the SCA -- 17 years. (Yikes!) I think it's safe to assume 
that standards have gone up in the last 17 years, although for all I know the 
people who drafted the patterns are all costuming geniuses.

I own two but I've never used them. I've always heard that they need a LOT of 
work.

Gail Finke

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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Helpful Pets
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>


 < but other than that, it went together smoothly and easily, even with
feline interference. >  

 

Jen

In know where you are coming from, except that my little four legged helpers
have shorter tails and longer ears. Two rabbits, who are both, convinced
that their nest should be lined with velvet, silk, with gold and silver
trimmings. It is always fun to find the long piece of fabric that you are
working on slowly moving off the cutting table, and out to the hall. It
never fails to amaze me how much a 7LB rabbit can pull. Add to that the fact
that one of them is a LONG haired white Angora. I have about given up on
working on black fabric, and I have found that even white velvet will
attract and show white fur. Some days I do remind both of them what lovely
Muffs they would make. But most of the time they are dears to live with.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 13:32:33 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Helpful Pets
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I'm with you on this one... two out of my four cats
have decided their favorite place to sleep is my
cutting table.  It is the smooth white surface and is
very cool for them to sleep on... of course, this
means I can leave any half-cut patterns... pattern
tissue is their favorite toy!

sarah


>  < but other than that, it went together smoothly
> and easily, even with
> feline interference. >  
> 
>  
> 
> Jen
> 
> In know where you are coming from, except that my
> little four legged helpers
> have shorter tails and longer ears. Two rabbits, who
> are both, convinced
> that their nest should be lined with velvet, silk,
> with gold and silver
> trimmings. It is always fun to find the long piece
> of fabric that you are
> working on slowly moving off the cutting table, and
> out to the hall. It
> never fails to amaze me how much a 7LB rabbit can
> pull. Add to that the fact
> that one of them is a LONG haired white Angora. I
> have about given up on
> working on black fabric, and I have found that even
> white velvet will
> attract and show white fur. Some days I do remind
> both of them what lovely
> Muffs they would make. But most of the time they are
> dears to live with.
> 
> Yours Stephen Bergdahl 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:49:21 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Barbara Maren wrote:
> People always contend that there were no buttons in the middle ages. I
> don't know what kinds of buttons you mean, but when I was in the Danish
> Nationalmuseet in Kopenhagen in May, they had two complete outfits on
> display from the medieval period in Denmark (which began later than
> elsewhere, around 1000). These outfits were obviously replicas of dresses
> found at excavations or in bogs. And the sleeves did have buttons, a long
> row of small fabric-covered buttons all down the outside of the underarm,
> to get the narrow sleeve closed. I just don't find my notes on it. It was
> 11th or 12th century.

I doubt this. The cottes must have been the Hjerjolfsness ones and they
date from late 13th to 14th c. This is the time that more well to do people
started to use buttons.

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: The History of Costume
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:54:35 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Dietmar wrote:
> I've made up one of the
> garments this way and it worked wonderfully.

I have done two a long time ago. They came out wrong, both of them. It
almost looked as if Kohler never tried to make the costumes himself (or had
them made), because most of the medieval ones are just not right at all. By
now I can see why they are so muddled, but I couldn't then. I don't know
about the ones taken from vintage costumes (not my period ;-)

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Delurking Day
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

> I've been off the list for a little over a year and now finally have the
> time to enjoy it once more.  It's great to be back!  I've been lurking so
> far, but I'm sure you'll hear from me again eventually.
> 
Welcome back, Melanie, and well done.

Henk

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: meep!
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:55:43 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi

Lauri wrote:
>  I'm a grad student (same age as you, Dianne,
> and I'd love to hear from you off the list), working on the birth of
> fashion in the fourteenth century.  

Please tell us more,

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi all,

Phew, that de-lurking day took some reading time...

Susan wrote:
> I fall somewhere in between "lurker" and "regular poster."  This is
> partially because of time constraints, and partially because the period I
> study (11th-14th century European, with a big emphasis on the 13th
century;
> although I also dabble in Norse and 16th century stuff) is not one of the
> ones which seems to attract as many enthusiasts (especially the 13th
> century, except for Henk, of course :-)
> 
That means we're in about the same league. Being a medieval advisor (we
advise on things medieval and I mean all things, not only costume) I tended
only to read about and jump in with answers for medieval stuff (1250-1350
is my specialist period) at first, but gradually got more interested in
other periods too. I always liked the costume of the late tudor common man
(Baldrick in Blackadder) with the beret, doublet and very full and wide
kneelenghth breeches, and dito of the 1625-30 common man. Having been to
Kirby Hall twice now and having seen the Tudors (a living history group)
and the Sealed Knot (a bit later, but what the heck...) I am more resolved
than ever. But where will I get the time? My 15th c outfit is not even
finished yet...

I must confess that I delete most stuff from later than 1650 and earlier
than 500 (not a lot, I give you...) and Scottish kilts and Irish leines
with the exception of mails on cloth, weaving and dying. I enjoy this list
immensely, have the feeling I know a lot of you almost personally and am
able to chuckle about a lot of the comments. Keep up the good work
everybody and thank you, Penny, for this wonderful idea.

Henk


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc 
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I've used several of the MM patterns with relatively good luck.  I don't
use their directions since I build for stage work.  I found that the
Kirtle pattern was printed wrong.  If you look at the front seamline
you'll notice a break in the black line.  If you just fill this in, the
Kirtle prows out at the top by 3/4 inch.  If the lines are put back 
together this is eliminated and the garment fits as it should.  I mocked
up for each size and did the final fit from that for my chorus members. 
I do my own sleeve pattern, since I like to incorporate a built in
gusset for stage movement.
We've also done a man's Tudor short gown (had to really let out the
waist).  I made an Italian overdress (high waist- 1450) that needed
little re-fitting for myself.  Wore it in the historic Masquerade at
CostCon13 (?) in Toronto.  That was the one where a Novice reproduced a
Worth gown and won the whole show!
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston, MA area
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 13:58:34 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Heather Jones" <HJones@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: medieval miscellania
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-Poster: "Heather Jones" <HJones@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>

I'm sorry, I'm a day late for the "lurkers unite" party...

I thought I might try to come out of the closet (so to speak) and comment
here.  I have heard many bad things about the Med. Misc. patterns from
various people.  Having tried only one and about to starting working on two
others, I don't know if I like them yet or not.  I have no problems with
their directions, but the sizes of the different pieces do not always match
up.  I am thinking specifically of the men's Italian pattern (I forget
which view) but the sleeve did not fit into the arm hole of the doublet
(meaning the hole was too big for the sleeve).  You had to use the biggest
size sleeve to get it to fit.  Other than that, which was easy to fix, I
did not have a problem, and the doublet turned out great.

As I mentioned I am going to start working on a Tudor and Elizabethan gown.
 Has anyone used these Med. Misc. patterns?  If so, would you maybe have
any hints or things to say about it?  Also, do you think these patterns
might ever be re-vamped, improved, or "upgraded"?  Maybe a letter to the
company noting the difficulties in constructing a garment from the pattern
would help convince them that improvements might be needed?

<deep breath>  There, that wasn't so hard (my first post)
Suannoch


At 02:13 PM 9/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>I don't know anything about the company, but the patterns have been around 
>since I've been in the SCA -- 17 years. (Yikes!) I think it's safe to assume 
>that standards have gone up in the last 17 years, although for all I know the 
>people who drafted the patterns are all costuming geniuses.
>
>I own two but I've never used them. I've always heard that they need a LOT of 
>work.
>
>Gail Finke
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:12:06 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/10/1999 12:41:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
meribetha@zebra.net writes:

<< 
 Everyone...thanks to a wonderful list member I now know what kind of
 braid..but I still have no idea what the best attachment method for it
 is.  Help!
  >>
Hand sew it down....like they did. Still the best method.
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:00:14 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

I agree with everything that Kat has said but would add the following
If you are skiving the edges of the leather and turning the seams , they
will need te be hammered to flatten them ,  You should also stick them down
using either a leather adhesives or a rubber solution ; In period they used
a cow glue when necessary and later gutta percha;
Also see if you can get a wheel fitting to replace the foot on your sewing
machine, it makes life awhole lot easier.
Keep your leather needle sharp by occasionaly stiching two or three stitches
through some very fine 0000 "wet and dry" paper.   Nottoo many as you will
blunt ; Also make sure you keep the needle clean and have several spares;
you will break a few of them until you get you r tension and foot pressure
dead right.
with slashing, remember that the stretchability of the leather differs
greatly between working with the grain and againts it.  Grain being the line
form the tail to the head of the animal .
This will also effect things when stitching to non leather material  You may
find that rather than just feeding through the machine , you will have to
hole both pieces and push one pull the other to maintain the correct shape;
It comes with a little practice.
If everything seems to be going wrong tension wise, check you machine is
well lubricated and then place a small pies of beeswax on to p so that your
top thread will run through it especially with thicker cotton threads.
Polycotton pr full poly  is much better if you can want to cheat. Another
trick is too rewind your shuttle thread the other way around  I e balancing
the Z twist and S twist
I hope this helps

Dave


L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question : FOLLOWUP ?
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:08:40 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>




> >> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
> >> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede
stuff
> >> that makes your feet sweat, ... <snip> ...
>              Dave--If this is a water color, won't it come off on sweaty
> feet/the socks covering them?  Just wondering.  Thank you for your
> thoughts/experience. -- Carol
>
Yes; and most other things that they come into contact with. (gg but true)
The only way colouring will not come off leather is when it is factory dyed,
and then its not  guaranteed;
I once visitted the experimental  section of ICI who make leather dyes and
was amazed at what they had to do to get color into leather.  Some of the
test pieces were left in the dyeing drums rotating at high speed solidly for
a fortnight. or two week in the US;
Dave

L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: medieval miscellania
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:

> I don't know anything about the company, but the patterns have been around 
> since I've been in the SCA -- 17 years. (Yikes!) I think it's safe to assume 
> that standards have gone up in the last 17 years, although for all I know the 
> people who drafted the patterns are all costuming geniuses.

I met the people who ran the company 15 or so years ago, through mutual
friends. I did not know them well, and I never worked with them on
costume, so I can't speak to their skills.  However, I did gather that the
quality of the patterns varied significantly from one to another,
depending on many factors. To begin with, different people created
different patterns, and the skill and knowledge of those people varied.
And I gather that some of patternmakers were very good in certain areas
and inexperienced in others, so the accuracy and success of the styles
varies accordingly.

I remember hearing discussion of some technical issues as well. Those of
you in the fashion biz know that a prototype for a pattern is typically
built on one model of a specific size and then scaled up and down from
there to generate other sizes. At least some of the MM patterns were
apparently drafted on to fit a very small woman; this can create problems
in proportion and scaling as you go up, so the lower sizes may fit true to
form, but the larger ones do not. I also remember one of the owners
talking about technical hassles with the company that did the scaling and
printing of the patterns; this may have affected the quality of the
product.

The people who did the drawings also varied in skill and experience. 
Another friend of mine -- a fairly skilled calligrapher/illuminator -- was
hired to do the finished copy of the instructions for one of the patterns. 
He did not sew. He was asked to make his drawings based on sketches, not
actual fabric pieces in process, and said that he had a great deal of
trouble making sense of the way various pieces of fabric were supposed to
be layered (this was for something like pouches or hats, I forget, where
there were many pieces to be stitched and turned). My friend got the
impression that the instructions had been written from memory, based on
the way the patternmaker felt the item "should" go together, not
necessarily the way the patternmaker had actually assembled the prototype.
As a result, some of the instructions may not have been workable in life. 

Also, in general, some styles just don't take well to modern pattern
methods without sacrificing a certain amount of authenticity, so the
makers do have to make certain concessions -- which may or may not be
acceptable to the buyers, and may or may not be successful in attaining
the proper look and fit. That would be true for anyone trying to make
modern patterns of certain medieval styles. 

I think the bottom line is, try them if you're willing to take your
chances. It may work, it may not. It may work for you and not for someone
else. It may need a little alteration, or it may be completely off-base. 
But you probably can't assume that your (or anyone's) experience with any
one MM pattern will hold true for another. 

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:21:53 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

Kat, we have to ask - do you have documentation for a leather
cotehardie???  And what are you going to wear under it?  I can only
visualise this as totally skin tight, leather side to skin ... or should
I go and find a fetish list?

Jean
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
>> 
>> *I'm* waiting with bated breath to hear all about a leather
>> cotehardie. Ack!!  Sounds hot.  In more ways than one.  ;->  Merouda
>
>I've got the main body almost done (center front is open still).  I need
>to put in the lining and put on the sleeves although at this point I'm
>probably going to make them tie-ons.  It's out of a midnight to navy
>blue light to medium weight leather with the suede side out.  Because
>it's a floor length I had to use three different sides to cut it out. 
>It's seven panels (the back was cut on the fold) and will lace up the
>front to a square neckline.  If I'm wearing it anywhere that isn't air
>conditioned or cold I plan on wearing a farthingale under it to hold the
>skirt away from my body.  It's really not that heavy and once I'm done
>with the GS leader uniform and find my leader handbook and get the
>brownie troop started and figure out how I'm going to pay for two more
>root canals I *may* get it done!!  Oh, and the sleeves are cut to come
>to my knuckles with a slight flare at the bottom from the wrist.
>
>Kat
>the truly exhausted!
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 14:37:48 -0500
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Jean Waddie wrote:
> 
> Kat, we have to ask - do you have documentation for a leather
> cotehardie???  And what are you going to wear under it?  I can only
> visualise this as totally skin tight, leather side to skin ... or
> should I go and find a fetish list?

No documentation...didn't even look...just wanted to see how it would
come out (I'll probably be wearing it at an SF con).  I'll put a chemise
under it as I do with my other cotehardies.

Kat
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:39:06 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: medieval miscellania
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

I was told that Historically Yours (the main/only? distributor of MM) owns 
the rights to reproduce the patterns, but not to alter them.  I replaced my 
lost women's Ital Ren this last spring and discovered that not only were the 
pieces not stacked on top of each other, but they also seemed to be somewhere 
in the realm of usability without major alteration.  I don't know if the 
planets were in the right alignment or what, but it was surprising.  The next 
trip to the VA Ren Faire (where Hist. Yours has a shop), I asked they'd been 
corrected and was told that they hadn't been and weren't likely to be as the 
original designer wasn't interested in them anymore.  

--Jen
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:27:49 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Glove pattern
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

Elaine,

Thank you so much for the glove info.  I went to the annual juried
"Faire at New Boston" held Labor Day (U.S.) at George Rogers Clark 
Park, close to Springfield, Ohio.  It was beastly hot, almost 90 degrees, 
full sun, and stifling humidity but still loads of fun. The time period 
covered is approx. 1790-1810.  I bought two "white deer" skins to
attempt to make a pair of gloves to which I could attach embroidered
gauntlets (Elizabeth I gloves).  This is uncharted territory and
may never get done but the book reference came at just the right time.

Marsha        (I enjoyed reading all the posts from lurkers.)
-------------------------------------------------------------------

>A few weeks ago someone on this list was looking for a pattern to sew kid
>gloves for herself. This evening I happened to stumble on some pretty
>extensive instructions in an old library book:
>
>Novel Materials
>Editor: David L. Harrison
>(from the series: The Art of Sewing, edited
>by Carlotta Erwin)
>New York: Time-Life Books, 1974
>
>The glove chapter falls on pages 70-83. It contains patterns, special
>instructions on preparing the leather for gloves (things I'd never seen in
>any other leather book!) and sewing instructions for a couple of different
>glove styles. It looks quite interesting!
>
>Elaine
>(who is also delurking for the first time tonight!)

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 12:42:59 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Penny asked:

> Are our lurkers introverts????

> From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
> <http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
> "Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
> right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate
> in their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for
> thought and analysis."
>
> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!

I wasn't sure whether I belong in the lurker category or not, so I sat it out.
It sure was great hearing from all the voices we don't see here often enough.
I hope the simple act of posting once will help some of those lurkers get over
their fear and speak up more often. ;-)

The introvert/extrovert question is a good one. When I joined the SCA 8 years
ago, I was very shy. Somehow, wearing dresses (okay, they're really tunics)
has helped me overcome that shyness. Within a couple years I was the Castellan
(newcomer representative/welcome wagon). I just recently stepped up as the
herald (Master of Ceremonies) for our Barony (large CA county), so I'd better
not be introverted, because it's my job to run the King's court. If I hadn't
gotten over my stage fright, I could never stand there and be at the center of court.

Take care,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:55:55 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Project Pack Rat
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>.........I already have 2000 yards of fabric in 
>my sewing room and an idea list that gets added to quicker than I can 
>complete the projects that are already on it. 

Loved it, Jessica!
There are moments when I wish civilization WOULD break down over Y2K
just so I could stay home and organize all the fabrics and projects!

I keep collecting projects on the theory that when I retire (5 yr/10 mos.)
even if no one is still doing this stuff, I'll have enough projects on hand 
to keep me busy until I go to that Great Fitting Room in the Sky :-}
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>>Nowhere was there an indication that the edges of these slashes were 
>>cared for in any way (so as not to fray)....
--------------
>If you slash the fabric perfectly diagonally (is this "on the bias?"), it 
>shouldn't fray. Especially when you do it to tightly woven fabrics....
>slashes from shoulder to waist, I would say that they would have *had* 
>to line them in some way. 
--------------
Last night I picked up my copy of "Fashion in Detail." Yes, its expensive 
and there are no pictures of the full garment but the close-ups are great.
The book and my museum hopping bring me to the sad conclusion that some 
types of slashes WERE painstakingly finished on the edges.  

I'm working on the theory that the "pinked" type of ornamental slashing, 
even when quite extensive, doesn't have a visible means to stop fraying.
Previously on the list, someone mentioned gum arabic or other mixtures 
may have been painted on the back of the fabric.  (?)

There is a beautiful silk diagonally slashed over-garment at the 
V&A that has little fraying and several examples in "Fashion in Detail."  

My heart sunk with dread when I realized the long "ribbon" type slashes,
seen in German, Swiss, landsknecht, and women's mid-17th c. sleeves
do appear to be lined and finished on the edges. (Too much work!)  There is 
an incredible cream silk doublet with long vertical slashes in "Fashion 
in Detail" showing detailed finishing and lining of the long edges. [1600?]

It also shows close-ups of mid-18th c. men's coats and even heavy and fulled 
wools had finished edges on the pockets, hems and the front centers.  No 
unfinished edges.  Of course, these are wealthy people's clothes.....
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:32:58 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: 17th century
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th century 
>enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!
>Kate Bunting
>King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot
--------
Jill and Kate,  
I do 17th c. (Cavalier Association, Columbus Ohio, US). We do ECW in the US
and American colonial 17th century.  This summer, went to the muster at
Salem Village 1630. If I ever get to the UK again (last trip was 1984),
I'd love to attend some ECW and other events!

Marsha Hamilton 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 16:29:37 1999
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Subject: Re: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

You can use a running stitch that is long on the inside, teeny on the topside.

(Tried it once on a machine, but it's a nightmare if you already have the 
sleeve sewn together.)

Hey!  I've posted something two days in a row!!!!!

K.
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:52:34 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Finishing on Slashed Edges
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19990910172058.006c3710@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Well, another solution is to sew the size the hole is going to be with
another fabric that is only a patchwork size in that area with it. Do this
over and over until the entire sleeve is covered. Slash between the narrow
lines of the stiching and turn the fabric to the wrong side of the sleeve.
Turn the sleeve over and start either tacking them down or sew them
together for a lining. Lined is always better than fray check and lasts
longer. They probably used the slashing technique on strong, closely woven
fabric that would not fray easily due to the weave.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 16:53:55 1999
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-Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net

The slashes were often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or
gum tragacanth. Also as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a
die you hit with a hammer) could be used hot this often sealed the edge
of the fabric. I've experimented with both of these and they work

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 16:56:22 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:11:05 -0500
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: sewing leather
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?>>

You do need to be very concerned with grain in leather, particularly with
garments that fit closely (like jerkins and doublets). It's different from
fabric, but it's still very important. It stretches a lot one way, and very
little the other, so you need to plan very carefully. It can also stretch
(strangely) across the grain.

Any pinking, punching or slashing should be very small, because anything
larger will act like a cut, and pull or tear further. There's no way of
stabilizing, so keep them small (under 1/2 inch.)


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 17:03:39 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc & other things
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:18:58 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>Medieval Misc. patterns tend to be awful - I can't recommend them. They
>say they were drafted by Laurels of the SCA but they don't say they were
>drafted by *costuming* Laurels.  I can't make heads or tails of them
>either so they weren't drafted by calligraphy and Illumination Laurels
>either.

The research sheets I've always found to be useful. The patterns are another
story. The smaller sizes can be acceptable if cut out of muslin and adjusted
on a real person first, and I've generally found the men's patterns work
better than the women's.  But even if they were drafted by costume Laurels,
they could still be sub-par--many of the costume Laurels I know have no
particular skill in pattern drafting;  they're in fact a lot better at
draping on an actual person without a pattern.  (Besides, pattern drafting
for a modern scaled pattern isn't exactly what most people get their Laurels
for :-)

Susan

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:17:04 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: How many list members?
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-Poster: Finafyr@aol.com

I occasionally come out of Lurk mode...I just don't wish to offend or 
bother...and I do have introverted tendencies <smile>
Finafyr
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 17:15:19 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003901befba0$ffeb1c50$0cea7080@witsend2.Princeton.EDU>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Button holes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:25:52 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

WOW!!!  Thanks! What a great piece of costuming trivia!  

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com 

> button
> 
> usually disklike piece of solid material having holes or a shank through
> which it is sewed to one side of an article of clothing and used to
> fasten or close the garment by passing through a loop or hole in the
> other side. Purely decorative, nonutilitarian buttons are also
> frequently used on clothing. 
> 
> The ancient Greeks and Etruscans fastened their tunics at the
> shoulders with buttons and loops. In medieval Europe, garments
> were laced together or fastened with brooches or clasps and points,
> until buttonholes were invented in the 13th century. 
> 
> [rest of item truncated as inapplicable.]
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:52:04 PDT
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-Poster: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>

ok. I have the material, and am waiting for the pattern. I am new to this 
list, so if it's been discussed already, sorry.. but I really want to know 
:]

I'm making version "B" with version "A"'s sleeves out of a linen/cotton 
blend in a color that matches a Color Box stamp pad I've got :] "Colonial 
Blue". I don't have quite enough, so I'm thinking of lengthening the hem 
with some navy I have in the same fabric. Is this a period thing to do for 
It. Ren? My SCA period is 1475-1525 German, so I don't know :] Also, I was 
wondering if doing the trims & sleeves & my bits of underskirt that show in 
a color called "Tea Rose", kind of a peachy pink, and palest yellow would be 
ok. I realize that colors were used in excess, and they *do* look good 
together.. :D

I am also going to fit the bodice first, and change it by making the front 
underbust seam straight across, and using gathers instead of the darts.. Is 
there a way to avoid darts and gathers altogether?

oh, and pleating the skirt onto the bodice would be more accurate than the 
gathers, right?

*grin* thanks for any and all responses!

Kris

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:57:44 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Linda wrote:

> I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a leather
> sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and should go through
> the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer stitches than I would with
> woven fabric.

Leather needles are triangular in cross section which helps cut through the
leather without stretching it. Longer stitches will help make the garment
stronger. If the stitches are too close together, the stitches can rip out,
and you'll end up with a perfect pattern in leather minus the seam allowance.

> I'm thinking about using some slashing and pinking to add interest and line
> it with a bright, contrasting color to show off the slashes. Any suggestions
> on the slashes?

I've heard of people using a sharp chisel to make quick consistent slashes.
I've also heard of someone using a drill to make consistent round holes
through many layered pieces at once. (Although, I'm not sure I'd recommend
this) I also understand that it's a good idea to punch a round hole at the end
of long slashes so that the leather is less likely to tear at the ends.

> Should I keep them smaller (1/2 inch or so big) so that the leather won't
> stretch? Seems to me (the book is at home so I can't reference it now) that
> the pictures I've seen in Janet Arnold show the pinking and slashing to be
> fairly small.

Consider that the more holes that you make, the more stretch that you will
have. This is true whether you have a handful of large slashes or a myriad or
tiny slashes. In Germany, slashes were often larger than in England, but both
were done.

> As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled seam
> when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together, trim one
> seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam allowances in the same
> direction with the longer one on top, then top stitch in place (just like
> regular flat felled only the raw edge isn't turned under to keep bulk down).
> Anyone have experience, suggestions on seaming leather?

I'd recommend that you sew the seams and hammer the seams open to either side
and glue the seam allowance (1/4" or so) down with barge cement.

> For sewing leather to fabric lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual
> (with longer stitch length). Will this work?

Depends on how you are lining it. Is it a bag lining, or are you lining
particular areas only? I'm not sure how you would work a bag lining. Sewing
the lining around each cut out area is the best method, but incredibly tedious.

> I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
> I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the pattern
> pieces anyway you want.

There is no grain line per se, but there are differing amounts of stretch in
different parts of the hide. Some hides will have stretch marks that run in a
particular direction. You will also want to work around blemishes in the
surface of the hide.

> I plan to use three layers: lining, interlining, and leather. Usually
> when I make a doublet or bodice, I treat the lining and interlining as
> one unit. Would it be better to use the interlining (which is the layer
> that will show under the leather) and the leather as one unit instead.
> Or does it matter?

That seems like an unnecessary number of layers. I see most leather doublets
as unlined. I can't see a satisfactory way of lining with that many layers,
because the leather will stretch in different ways than the fabric lining.
Leather stretches in the heat and shrinks in the cold, but the fabric won't. I
guess that I'd rather line areas of slashing than try to line the whole thing.
Perhaps you can make horizontal rows of slashing and sew the lining down with
a horizontal seam between rows. The slashes don't have to be horizontal, but
arranged in rows horizontally, such as:
----------
//////////
----------
Of course, the same thing could be done vertically.

Any other caveats?

I don't know of anything off the top of my head, but I'll think about it over
the weekend and see if I come up with anything...and see if anyone else has input.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 18:03:14 1999
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From: lisaleon@hawaii.edu
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Finishing on Slashed Edges
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-Poster: lisaleon@hawaii.edu

Marsha J. Hamilton wrote:

> The book and my museum hopping bring me to the sad conclusion that some 
> types of slashes WERE painstakingly finished on the edges.  
> 
> My heart sunk with dread when I realized the long "ribbon" type slashes,
> seen in German, Swiss, landsknecht, and women's mid-17th c. sleeves
> do appear to be lined and finished on the edges. (Too much work!)  There is 
> an incredible cream silk doublet with long vertical slashes in "Fashion 
> in Detail" showing detailed finishing and lining of the long edges. [1600?]

and

ches@io.com wrote:

> Well, another solution is to sew the size the hole is going to be with
> another fabric that is only a patchwork size in that area with it.

	Is the lining and finishing you saw done this way?  This is how I
was planning to do it anyway but it would be nice to know if it's accurate
or if I'm just making do.

annora

Lisa Leong        *       <|
lisaleon@hawaii.edu	  .^.  *
		     *  .=.=.=.       *
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Someone (Joan?) was asking about red satin ankle boots.  If what you're
looking for is Victorian styled boots, go to a bridal store that sells shoes
and ask to see their catalogs.  Most of them don't keep them in stock, but
several styles of fabric boots are available by special order, and they can
have them custom dyed  to match your swatch.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Pinking Tools?

Where?

I'd love to find some of these.

Thanks,

Drea

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote:

> 
> -Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net
> 
> The slashes were often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or
> gum tragacanth. Also as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a
> die you hit with a hammer) could be used hot this often sealed the edge
> of the fabric. I've experimented with both of these and they work
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:52:32 EDT
Subject: H-COST: MM- Italian Renaissance pattern
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-Poster: Nancygwyn@aol.com

I bought my copy of the pattern almost ten years ago, so I cannot speak to 
the patterns that are currently being sold.

Starting out as a fairly competent home sewer, I was able to achieve a 
reasonable result with the help of a friend who understood fit and was able 
to clue me in as far as the necessity of boning was concerned (being 
relatively well-endowed).

Over the years I have used the bodices from the pattern as starting points 
since I am just know starting to learn to draft patterns.  My recommendations 
on using this particular pattern are as follows (some of these are rather 
obvious to experienced costumers, but they are lessons I needed to learn):

1.  Do your research first to determine exactly what the dress looks like 
that you want to make.  Although the drawings on the pattern are helpful, 
looking at the original artwork will give you many more ideas as to fabric 
and drape as well as decoration and color. Note: not all the dresses shown on 
the instruction sheet can be made from the pattern pieces, particularly the 
later fashions (post 1500).

2.  Adjust the flat pattern to fit your measurements.  I would recommend 
making a copy of the original as it is unlikely that the first pattern will 
be completely correct for you.  (I concentrate on the bodice and admit that I 
have not used the skirt pattern.)

3.  Make a muslin from this pattern.  Have a friend who knows fit and 
understands the look you are trying to achieve fit the muslin on you.  Pay 
particular attention to the shoulders that you are getting the right line and 
support.  Remember that Italian Renaissance bodices fit very snugly (mistake 
#1 that I see in most SCA versions- they do not fit tightly enough).

Note:  Wearing an undergarment that will at the very least approximate what 
you plan to wear is critical.  Although I used to build all the support in to 
the dress, I now wear a fabric corselette (no bones) to control and support 
my bust.

You will also need to make a muslin of the sleeve to ensure that it fits you 
and the bodice before cutting out your fashion fabric.  This is also the time 
to make sure that you know how you plan to do the sleeves, a major feature of 
Italian Ren dresses.

4.  Make adjustments to your flat pattern.  Remember to cut out the bodice 
with the center front and back on the straight of the grain.

5.  Whether you decide to put in boning or not (slender ladies may not need 
it), I would recommend using an interlining to give a better shape and 
stability to the bodice.  Definitely use one if there will be no corselette.

6.  Note: even on the dresses that do not specify linings to the sleeves I 
would carefully consider adding one in order to achieve the proper drape of 
the sleeve.

7.  As noted above, I have not used the skirt pattern.  The second most 
common mistake I see in the SCA is not enough fabric used in the skirt.  
Although I have used two 45" widths of a heavy fabric in my skirts, I now 
generally try to use three fabric widths.  One friend, a Renaissance 
costuming Laurel, suggested the general rule of 4x the underbust.

8.  Fastenings:  I recommend using brass Roman drapery rings to either lace 
up the front or side.  I have also used hook and eye tape, on occasion 
supplementing them with decorative hooks and eyes to distract from the modern 
ones.  Based on my research I have never seen an Italian lace up the center 
back.  The lacing on the side back seams appears to have originated sometime 
in the 1530s (anyone who can cite an earlier version please let me know; it 
would simplify my next dress!).

I hope these are helpful to those using this pattern or doing Renaissance 
women's dress in general.  If you have specific questions concerning one of 
the views, please contact me.  I have worked with almost all of them at some 
point.

There, I de-lurked!

Nancy Stengel
(Maddalena Salutati in the SCA)



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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Dress forms
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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Hi again

Well, after full intending to lurk, I find myself all over the list with
questions:

OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
she's 4 inches taller and thinner!

Am I dreaming???

I was looking at this one:

 http://farthingales.on.ca/judy.htm

Anybody have any thoughts on how well this might work?  Anybody own one???

Rima


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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Victorian Dress Book
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:16:10 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Not sure which Joan this was directed to (Jurancich or me) but if it was for
me....been there, done that, sitting on my bookshelf  :-)

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 19:07:47 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Strike is over!!!
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:23:30 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Stepford Moms!!! I love it!!!  Too true!!


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 19:18:15 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost:
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:33:57 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Ah, excellent idea! (Margo and Teddy) I think I shall do just that!  I don't
know why I am always so durned obsessed with accessories and props!!


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 19:37:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:49:01 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
experimented with both of these and they work
           Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 19:54:28 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:57:08 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

> >Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
> >lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and if
I
> >was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this material.
As
> >it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and
wanted a
> >heavier weight.

I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C --
properly felt was made from unspun wool.

Kristin


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 20:29:29 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Victorian "Fancy Dress"
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 08:32:18 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Try *The Book of Costume, or Annals of Fashion" (1846) by A
Lady of Rank (The Countess of Wilton), annotated and
published by R.L. Shep, ISBN 0-914046-04-7.  Early research
on world costume over a range of centuries. Got mine through
Amazon.com.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of JPMcTeer@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 1:10 AM
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Victorian "Fancy Dress"
>
>
>
> -Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com
>
> I have committed to do a (slide) lecture for the local
> Victorian Society in
> October on ideas for costumes for our Victorian "masked
ball"
> next January.
> I have found Planche 1881and Strutt (rare book room) in
our
> library catalogs,
> as well as the Butterick Masquerade book for 1892.  I
> purchased the new book
> on Canadian "Magnificent Entertainments" by Cynthia
Cooper. I
> haven't checked
> yet on the dates, but I think that Vecellio, Racinet, and
> Braun & Schneider
> came out before 1900 (and are now in Dover reprint.)
>
> This is only a 45 minute lecture, but I would like to make
a
> listing of books
> (especially cheap Dover reprints) for a handout.  What
have I
> missed?  Is
> there anything with color plates?
>
> Does anyone want to sell me copies of their slides?
>
> As you might know, I usually lecture and do workshops on
> corsets and other
> "body-shaping garments" so I don't have much on this
topic,
> unless I own the
> books for some other reason.  I haven't had time to check
> them all yet.
>
> Thanks to you all for delurking and for the useful thread
on
> the Laughing
> Moon corset, chemise, and kit.  I too am a very satisfied
customer of
> Farthingales for supplies.
>
> Joan McTeer
> Minneapolis
> (who by now has missed the 9/9/99 deadline!)
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 20:29:30 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <agast@tds.net>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Bag Sleeves on Leines
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 07:34:56 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

The bag sleeve probably appeared on the leine about the same
time it appeared in fashion elsewhere, or perhaps somewhat
later.   The de Heere water colors show them, and there are
some woodcuts of them too 1400-1600.  Without Dunbar and
McClintock and Packenham on my desk, I can't be more
specific.  The bag sleeve may have appeared somewhat
earlier, but I'd have to check those references for better
precision. The bag sleeve appears to have been worn only by
the Anglo-Irish, soldiers of upper rank.  Other styles of
leine sleeves were worn in the same time period by poorer,
less fashionable people.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Anne Gast
> Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 6:40 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST:De-Lurking
>
>
>
> -Poster: Anne Gast <>
>
> OK, I have built my courage enough to delurk.  This is
worse
> than talking
> to a room full of people.  (I guess, this is talking to
more than a
> roomful.)
>
> I make costumes for IFGS and Magic Horizens, my live
action,
> live combat
> (foam weapons, no pain), medieval/fantasy role-playing
groups.
>
> I lurk because I feel I don't know enough to contribute,
but I love
> learning from this list and from the books recommended.  I
especially
> enjoyed the Irish costuming threads.
>
> I have wondered when the bagged sleeves on leines started
> appearing.  Or
> conversely, what period is it appropiate not to have them?
>
> Anne
> Madison, Wisconsin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 20:37:38 1999
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To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:49:32 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

Hi all--

I'm pretty new to the list, and so far a lurker.  I'm planning on doing some
leather and suede doublets myself, and since I sew professionally, much of
it leather, I thought I might help.  I'm planning on doing the Janet Arnold
doublet with the layer of flower cutwork for one of them...

Did you know you can make suede harem pants?  Probably not period, but
interesting for modern wear.  The patterns I use take about 35 square feet
per pair.

>I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a
>leather sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and
>should go through the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer
>stitches than I would with woven fabric.
>
I =don't= use a leather needle, and I've been sewing leather for a decade!
I find that a heavy topstitching needle works best, a 110/18.  I don't use a
leather needle because if you have to move any stitching, the holes will
close up most of the time on suede and be less noticeable on leather.
Leather needles leave a triangular hole that I actually had start rips in
some leather.  I used the same stitch length as sewing cloth.  I also use
really heavy duty thread (which is why you need topstitching needles that
have large eyes).  You can get it in tiny spools at some sewing stores, and
I forget what it's called, but it's used for upholstery and canvas.  I by it
in large cones at an industrial/upholstery supply shop.  Cones are only
about $5-6 dollars and they last for ages.  They work fine with a home
sewing machine if you get a cone thread holder.  Any topstitching I do with
regular thread, so I can get away with using black heavy thread for most
dark colors.

>As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled
>seam when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together,
>trim one seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam
>allowances in the same direction with the longer one on top, then
>top stitch in place (just like regular flat felled only the raw edge isn't
>turned under to keep bulk down). Anyone have experience,
>suggestions on seaming leather? For sewing leather to fabric
>lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual (with longer stitch
>length). Will this work?
>
Some home machines don't want to go through very many layers of even light
suede or leather, and if they do, odds are good the tension will give you
fits.  My home machine sewed many a garment, but I had to baby it sometimes,
and it still needs repairs from an elkhide vest I agreed to do at a foolish
moment years ago.  Home tanned thick, nasty stuff that clung to the needle
and threw the tension off all the time.  I use a Bernina industrial now, but
I really should get out my Thomsons mini-industrial leather sewing machine
and get used to it...  Anyway, I use half inch seams and open them and glue
them.  I use Aleene's Tacky Glue for work, but I might used contact cement
for something that I thought would get a lot of use and drycleaning.

>I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
>I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the
>pattern pieces anyway you want.
>
In suede it matters!  Also, different parts of the skin take dye differently
sometimes, so watch to see that one end isn't darker and thicker than the
other (usually toward what was the back end of the animal). I cut pants with
a piecing line halfway down each leg at an angle, and I try to cut the top
of the pants at the top or neck/shoulder area and lower legs below.

Other than that, I'm going to be finding out myself...

Kels

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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: "historic costuming" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:55:02 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello.  I missed the de-lurking day, but reading all the posts tonight was
inspiring!  I have posted maybe twice in the time I've been reading and
learning from this list, about 6 months.

So, I join in the group of people saying *Hi!  I'm lurking but I have a
question!!".

I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last year.
Even on of the indestructible black Singer straight sew models.  Now I
handsew everything, and found that I really like handsewing much more than
working with a machine.  This works well with the 20th century Norse
costuming I've been doing, but the thought of doing later period clothing
worries me.  Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or doublet?  Any advice
would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in an authentic manner (if
I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun with it!!) or materials or
methods to avoid.

Zelda

Interests:  10th Century Scandinavia and York, Early Elizabethan, 1560 -
1570 Spanish and trying to find information about 1400 to 1500
Dutch/Netherlands, of all classes.

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From: "J. Karnelian" <karnelian@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Santa Cruz Renaissance clothes -Lothlorien
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:05:04 PDT
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-Poster: "J. Karnelian" <karnelian@hotmail.com>

     I am looking for contact information for a Renaissance/gothic clothing 
store in Santa Cruz which I think is called Lothlorien. Or something 
similar. The owner is a woman named Lorian. My  girlfriend makes clothes and 
she was told that this store might be interested in her stuff. If anyone 
knows the adress for their website, or their e-mail, or their phone number, 
or regular postal adress, we would appreciate that information a lot.

______________________________________________________
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:05:57 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I'm not sure what style or exact color of red we are talking about. But I was recently looking for bridal shoes online and I came across...hmm  http://www.peterfox.com I believe it was, anyway they are the people that made the pinkish-red boots that Kate winslet wears in the titanic movie (with the jump dress I think they said) anyway they sell them on their website, the same style also comes in white it you wanted it hand dyed to a different color.


---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 


On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:38:27   Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Someone (Joan?) was asking about red satin ankle boots.  If what you're
>looking for is Victorian styled boots, go to a bridal store that sells shoes
>and ask to see their catalogs.  Most of them don't keep them in stock, but
>several styles of fabric boots are available by special order, and they can
>have them custom dyed  to match your swatch.  
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:16:35 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:48:40 -0700 (PDT), the following was written in
this electric book by Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>:

>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>.. a whole 
>>reel of 1/2" reed costs about 7 bucks & makes dozens of corsets, with 30 to 
>>40 bones apiece.  Just cut them to length, round off the ends, rub them with 
>>wax, and insert.
>
>Do you have a mail order source for reed?
>
>Margo

It can be purchased at many large craft supply stores ( such  as
Michael's, Hobby Lobby, JoAnn's etc in the basketweaving supplies if
the store near you carries such supplies) and may, if you are in a
large metropolitan area, possibly also be found under basketry or
chair-cane repair in the telephone directory.

You want the half-round kind so that you will not look like you are
corrugated once you take it off... ;)

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:40:58 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> 
> At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
> often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
> as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
> could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
> experimented with both of these and they work
>            Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
> these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
> arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol
>  _________________________________________________________________


There is a gentleman here in Ansteorra, that made that leather doublet
from Janet Arnorlds Patterns of fashion, complete with the pinking and
slashes, etc.  He got the dies from a leather working place.

Alexandria
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 21:36:46 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:47:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:57 PM 09/10/1999, Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net> aka Kristin,
replied to this question:  Does anyone know of any uses in
medieval/renaissance periods of a lightweight wool such as a gabardine?
saying:  I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
-- properly felt was made from unspun wool. 
      Kristin--So gabardine is a heavily fulled wool?  I don't spin and
don't know nearly enough about textiles.  I appreciate every bit of help I
get to learn...thank you in advance. Carol
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Bag Sleeves on Leines
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


I believe that there is often some confusion as to what is meant by "bag
sleeves"  To some people, it means a very wide sleeve with the end sewn up
most of the way, forming a bag.  But...to some people, especially when
discussing leines, a "bag sleeve" may mean a sleeve that has gathers along
the top of the arm, so that when worn, it resembles a drawstring bag. this
is the meaning I was thinking of when on several occasions, I have stated
that leines did not have bag sleeves.  

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 21:59:49 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: Delurking day delayed
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

What's a poor introvert to do? I sent this message yesterday, and it 
vanished into cyber-limbo. Here we go again:

I usually lurk, because my interest area is pretty darn obscure : the dress 
of the mixed-blood (i.e. half-breed) 'country wives' of Canadian fur 
traders, 1774-1821. My last project was sewing a new, more historically 
correct pair of knee-high leggins of red Melton cloth just in time for Rocky 
Mountain House's bicentennial in July. Then Joan Jurancich (hi!) very 
politely pointed out I was wearing them the wrong way around. Thanks, Joan! 
(Really!) And thanks to everyone who's answered the questions I've 
occasionally posted to the list over the last three years. 

Your obliged and obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 16:57:17 -0500
From: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
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-Poster: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>


--------------E4A2D44238D2CADA06EE8D71
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Greetings everyone:

I'm kinda late for 09-09-99. An introvert, and damn proud of it, I only post
when I feel I can make a contribution or pick people's brains. Besides,
it's hard enough to wrestle my husband off ebay, (wasting our hard-earned
sustenance - it would be cheaper if he drank and ran around with wild
women), long enough for me read the e-mail. Sigh! I wanted him to become
more computer literate, but I created a monster! As well, if I was a regular
participant, members might ask me how the such n' such project was
going, and I would be forced to admit it has joined the ranks of my other 1/4,
1/2, 3/4, and 99.9% finished projects! Although it appears as if I'm not the
only
one who doesn't finish a costume until the morning of an event.

Not long ago someone posted a message regarding news of another
"iceman" discovered in British Columbia. I'm ashamed to admit that
I shrugged it off as another internet rumour - after all I'm Canadian,
and I haven't heard anything about it! Time went by, and no one on
the list responded, and there was nothing in the news about it. My
opinion was confirmed.

Much to my surprise, a recent issue of the American journal "Science"
had a brief article on the discovery. Unfortunately, idiot girl galloped out the

door ("It's Friday, blessed Friday, yippee!) without her backpack containing
the article.

>From memory - the body was discovered August 14th in a glacier in
northern BC by hikers, and is now in storage in the Yukon until native
groups and researchers reach an agreement on how to research it. The
article suggested it was expected that an amicable agreement could be
reached, unlike the case of Kennewick (Kessewick?) man, a controversial
U.S.find.

The body was reported as wearing a finely woven hat and a cloak of small
pelts similar to squirrel or groundhog. A spear thrower was also found.
The body could be as old as 10,000 years old or as recent as the early
European occupation.

"Science" is published by the American Association for the Advancement of
Science, relying on my unreliable memory, and they have a web page with
access to a few, but not all, of their articles.

Off-topic - I'm rather annoyed that this has received so little coverage in the
Canadian media. Sometimes this self-effacing Canadian attitude goes a little
too far, (speaking as an ardent Canadian nationalist) especially when it
involves
such an interesting find.

Recently there was a book published on Canadian social attitudes called
"Sex in the Snow". A catchy title, and I can't help but wonder if this iceman
didn't meet his end....

And my apologies to the original poster, who ever you are! I will never doubt
you
again.

Sheridan Alder

--------------E4A2D44238D2CADA06EE8D71
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Greetings everyone:

<P>I'm kinda late for 09-09-99. An introvert, and damn proud of it, I only
post
<BR>when I feel I can make a contribution or pick people's brains. Besides,
<BR>it's hard enough to wrestle my husband off ebay, (wasting our hard-earned
<BR>sustenance - it would be cheaper if he drank and ran around with wild
<BR>women), long enough for me read the e-mail. Sigh! I wanted him to become
<BR>more computer literate, but I created a monster! As well, if I was
a regular
<BR>participant, members might ask me how the such n' such project was
<BR>going, and I would be forced to admit it has joined the ranks of my
other 1/4,
<BR>1/2, 3/4, and 99.9% finished projects! Although it appears as if I'm
not the only
<BR>one who doesn't finish a costume until the morning of an event.

<P>Not long ago someone posted a message regarding news of another
<BR>"iceman" discovered in British Columbia. I'm ashamed to admit that
<BR>I shrugged it off as another internet rumour - after all <B>I'm</B>
Canadian,
<BR>and I haven't heard <B>anything</B> about it! Time went by, and no
one on
<BR>the list responded, and there was nothing in the news about it. My
<BR>opinion was confirmed.

<P>Much to my surprise, a recent issue of the American journal "Science"
<BR>had a brief article on the discovery. Unfortunately, idiot girl galloped
out the
<BR>door ("It's Friday, blessed Friday, yippee!) without her backpack containing
<BR>the article.

<P>From memory - the body was discovered August 14th in a glacier in
<BR>northern BC by hikers, and is now in storage in the Yukon until native
<BR>groups and researchers reach an agreement on how to research it. The
<BR>article suggested it was expected that an amicable agreement could
be
<BR>reached, unlike the case of Kennewick (Kessewick?) man, a controversial
<BR>U.S.find.

<P>The body was reported as wearing a finely woven hat and a cloak of small
<BR>pelts similar to squirrel or groundhog. A spear thrower was also found.
<BR>The body could be as old as 10,000 years old or as recent as the early
<BR>European occupation.

<P>"Science" is published by the American Association for the Advancement
of
<BR>Science, relying on my unreliable memory, and they have a web page
with
<BR>access to a few, but not all, of their articles.

<P>Off-topic - I'm rather annoyed that this has received so little coverage
in the
<BR>Canadian media. Sometimes this self-effacing Canadian attitude goes
a little
<BR>too far, (speaking as an ardent Canadian nationalist) especially when
it involves
<BR>such an interesting find.

<P>Recently there was a book published on Canadian social attitudes called
<BR>"Sex in the Snow". A catchy title, and I can't help but wonder if this
iceman
<BR>didn't meet his end....

<P>And my apologies to the original poster, who ever you are! I will never
doubt you
<BR>again.

<P>Sheridan Alder</HTML>

--------------E4A2D44238D2CADA06EE8D71--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:48:30 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:05:13 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
In-Reply-To: <E11PbNU-0000aM-00@mongoose.slip.net>
References: <37D9E4D3.6240@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

Carol,
	I bought one from the lady that publishes Dressmaker Magazine.  There are
2 or 3 styles.  I think they were $35.  Her husband makes them, so they are
advertised in the magazine.  maybe someone will have a name and number for
you.


At 05:49 PM 9/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
>often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
>as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
>could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
>experimented with both of these and they work
>           Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
>these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
>arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:49:52 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:53:09 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:

> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
> At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
> often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
> as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
> could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
> experimented with both of these and they work

Singer used to make a pinking attachment for their standard low shank
machines.  They come up on eBay every now and then.  For cloth this might be
the ticket for long pinked slashes or seams - you basically run the fabric thru
like you're sewing it but it pinks it instead.

>           Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
> these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
> arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol
>

I'm sure for leather workers they can probably get a die made for pinking.

Gum arabic is easily available from art supply stores.  It's used for binding
pigments in paints, particularly watercolors, gouache, or tempera.  Winsor
Newton makes a liquid form of it (premixed, ready to go) that Aaron Bros or
Michaels would carry in most of their stores.  If you want to mix it yourself
you can buy it in powdered form from Pen and Ink Books or Sinopia.  Gum
tragacanth can probably be had from Sinopia or other pigment dealers online
(don't have the websites handy but can get them).

Carolyn (who also does illumination and just got some powdered gum arabic from
Pen and Ink, but also has the liquid around).

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:52:19 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Button holes, Danish and Irish buttons
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:13:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

 I got goosebumps reading Ms. Winkler's earlier post this
evening about the buttons all the way up the outside of a
medieval Danish sleeve.  Mairead Dunlevy has a photograph in
her wonderful book *Dress in Ireland* of a man's (Irish)
coat of similar or only slightly later period with what
sounds like the same detail.  She emphasized that the
buttons were not functional, but decorative.

I don't know where Mr. Hitchcock got "100 years" from, but I
have read that buttons started as a decorative thing, and
only later became functional. My memory is a little fuzzy on
this point, but I would hazard that Arnold, Tarrant, and
Dunlevy have all written that buttons preceded buttonholes.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 10:16 AM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: H-COST: Button holes
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> I was watching Alfred Hitchcock presents the other night.
> Mr. Hitchcock
> stated that buttons were invented 100 years prior to
> buttonholes.  Is this
> true???
>
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:55:20 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>,
        "Wear digest" <wearable-digest@listserv.embroideryclubs.com>,
        "WearableArt" <Wearableart@onelist.com>,
        "h-needlework" <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.org>,
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Subject: H-COST: An event Monday
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:03:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I just received this late message, so I hope you all can view this:

September 15, 1999 at 3:30pm EST The Ohio State University's Historic
Costume and Textiles Collection in the College of Human Ecology will
broadcast the premiere of "Scaasi: The Joy of Dressing Up," a video
presentation of the Collection's exhibition from October 8, 1998 through
February 27, 1999.

We invite you to participate in this interactive video streaming event and
contribute your thoughts, questions, and comments. Gayle Strege, Curator of
the Historic Costume and Textiles Collection will be in the site's chat room
to answer any questions you might have about the exhibition.

For more information, visit our website at
http://video.hec.ohio-state.edu/index.html. It is highly recommended that
you check out the website prior to the broadcast, as you may need to
download software. For technical assistance contact Eva Bradshaw at
bradshaw.3@osu.edu.

Gayle Strege
Curator, Historic Costume & Textiles Collection

175 Campbell Hall
1787 Neil Avenue
Columbus, OH 43210-1295
(614) 292-3090

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:58:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:01:03 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



kris .. wrote:

> -I'm making version "B" with version "A"'s sleeves out of a linen/cotton
> blend in a color that matches a Color Box stamp pad I've got :] "Colonial
> Blue". I don't have quite enough, so I'm thinking of lengthening the hem
> with some navy I have in the same fabric. Is this a period thing to do for
> It. Ren? My SCA period is 1475-1525 German, so I don't know :]

Better would be to make the sleeves or bodice out of a different color than
lengthening the hem.  Sleeves were often contrasting fabrics - bodices also, but
seen less often than different colored sleeves.  If you can squeeze a bodice AND
skirt out of the fabric you have, go for it.  If there's only enough for the
skirt, I think I'd use Dress A or C's bodice which has an insert that can be a
different color.

> Also, I was
> wondering if doing the trims & sleeves & my bits of underskirt that show in
> a color called "Tea Rose", kind of a peachy pink, and palest yellow would be
> ok. I realize that colors were used in excess, and they *do* look good
> together.. :D

Colonial blue (whatever that is), peachy pink and pale yellow sounds very
Victorian to me.  Italian used colors "in excess" as you say and they liked them
bright.  Colonial blue would work real well for Italian Ren with *red* sleeves
or *bright* yellow.  I've seen several paintings of women wearing red dresses
with blue sleeves so no reason you couldn't do it in reverse (I'm sure I've seen
that too).

> I am also going to fit the bodice first, and change it by making the front
> underbust seam straight across, and using gathers instead of the darts.. Is
> there a way to avoid darts and gathers altogether?

Make a corset to go under it.  That'll take care of those darts and gathers.  I
wear Italian Ren all the time (usually the long waisted kind, not the high
waisted like in teh Simplicity pattern) - my pattern is 2 pieces, front and back
joined at the seams.  And I'm a 38 DD.  But I always wear a corset.

> oh, and pleating the skirt onto the bodice would be more accurate than the
> gathers, right?

damn right.   Cartridge pleating it would be even better.

Carolyn (aka Tetchubah)

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
References: <37D73BA0.6C6C6B53@bc.sympatico.ca> <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu> <37D940B1.781CC2B5@home.com> <37D9432F.20BFC6C3@serv.net> <37D949D0.E5F853C8@home.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kat & Kent wrote:

> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
> I've got the main body almost done (center front is open still).  I need
> to put in the lining and put on the sleeves although at this point I'm
> probably going to make them tie-ons.  It's out of a midnight to navy
> blue light to medium weight leather with the suede side out.  Because
> it's a floor length I had to use three different sides to cut it out.
> It's seven panels (the back was cut on the fold) and will lace up the
> front to a square neckline.  If I'm wearing it anywhere that isn't air
> conditioned or cold I plan on wearing a farthingale under it to hold the
> skirt away from my body.

Maybe it's just me but a *farthingale*under*a*cotehardie*?? Are you mad,
woman?  I don't mean to sound rude but these 2 garments are at least a
hundred years apart.  No flame intended but I think you really should stick
to wearing it at SF cons, because undoubtedly someone at Ren Faire or SCA
would make rude comments.  Stick to lining it with something comfortable and
wear a chemise under it - or develop a very thick skin (pun intended).

Carolyn/Tetchubah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 23:04:12 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: RE: Bag Sleeves on Leines
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:25:28 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Good point, Margo.  I don't really know what the poster
meant by a "bagged sleeve."  The bag sleeve is a pretty
widely used historical term, where the sleeve is cartridge
pleated or gathered into the armscye and then hangs long,
gathered tight together at the "wrist."  The forearm extends
out a bound and emboridered slot in the front of the sleeve,
while the dangling remainder may be used like a pocket.
Pretty widely found in fashionable velvet, wool, linen
garments, women's, but especially mens, in Western Europe
1400 (approx) to 1600 (approx).

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margo Anderson
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 10:54 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Bag Sleeves on Leines
>
>
>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
> I believe that there is often some confusion as to what is
> meant by "bag
> sleeves"  To some people, it means a very wide sleeve with
> the end sewn up
> most of the way, forming a bag.  But...to some people,
especially when
> discussing leines, a "bag sleeve" may mean a sleeve that
has
> gathers along
> the top of the arm, so that when worn, it resembles a
> drawstring bag. this
> is the meaning I was thinking of when on several
occasions, I
> have stated
> that leines did not have bag sleeves.
>
> Margo
>
>
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 23:15:50 1999
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From: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: H-COST: Boring clothes?
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-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>

Here's a question for you all:  A few weeks back when my boyfriend
accompanied me to my favorite clothing store, Brooks Brothers, he
remarked that he found it strange that someone as interested in the
history of fashion as I am would always wear rather boring clothes.
Thinking about it, he's right, I do tend to choose very basic clothes that
I can wear for years-- but this is because I'd rather buy something of
better quality that will last a while than some cheap fashionable thing
that is poorly made and will wear out in short order.  I suppose the
fashionable clothes that would interest me are just plain too expensive
(in time or money).  I did see a lovely Chanel jacket the other day and
it wasn't boring at all.  Of course, it was also nearly $2000.

So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

--Katharine Whisler


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 23:24:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:37:34 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

I have used basket weaving reed, and I can only hope that you have better 
luck than I did with the stays. The 18th century stays I made were from small 
rounds, but after a while the reed got really dried out, and started 
cracking, especially around the waist line. I had the stays fully boned, they 
were quite stiff, and worked well for a while, then after a winter sitting in 
my camp chest, even though I wet them down to keep them pliant, they still 
began to crack. And with the amount of work that goes into making stays, you 
don't want to have to redo them every year. Just my experience, hope that 
yours work better.

Susan K. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 23:28:11 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:48:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



Meribeth,
     If there is a specific arrangement for it to be sewed on, I wouldn't
know.  I remember a post about the office held and I am not sure if it being
applied in a certain way is necessary...but, wouldn't work to hand tack it?
Pin it where you want it and hand sew it.
    I have a friend that does Civil War events. Her husband has THE cannon,
or so he thinks!  If there is something more to the applying the braid,  let
me know and I will ask her.
   Michelle

>-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
>
>Everyone...thanks to a wonderful list member I now know what kind of
>braid..but I still have no idea what the best attachment method for it
>is.  Help!
>
>MeriBeth


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:50:03 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>.. a whole
>>reel of 1/2" reed costs about 7 bucks & makes dozens of corsets, with 30
to
>>40 bones apiece.  Just cut them to length, round off the ends, rub them
with
>>wax, and insert.
>
>Do you have a mail order source for reed?
>
>Margo
>
   I am also, very, interested.
   Michelle

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:47:11 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 09:01 PM 10/09/99 -0700, you wrote:
>-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>Better would be to make the sleeves or bodice out of a different color than
>lengthening the hem.  Sleeves were often contrasting fabrics - bodices
also, but
>seen less often than different colored sleeves.  If you can squeeze a
bodice AND
>skirt out of the fabric you have, go for it.  If there's only enough for the
>skirt, I think I'd use Dress A or C's bodice which has an insert that can
be a
>different color.
<snip>
>bright.  Colonial blue would work real well for Italian Ren with *red*
sleeves
>or *bright* yellow.  I've seen several paintings of women wearing red dresses
>with blue sleeves so no reason you couldn't do it in reverse (I'm sure
I've seen
>that too).

oh! oh! I have LOTS of navy.. AND cranberry.. in the same fabric..
*plotting a new scheme* Maybe I'll do THAT for my It.Ren, and use the light
one for.. something else down the road..

>Make a corset to go under it.  That'll take care of those darts and
gathers.  I
>wear Italian Ren all the time (usually the long waisted kind, not the high
>waisted like in teh Simplicity pattern) - my pattern is 2 pieces, front
and back
>joined at the seams.  And I'm a 38 DD.  But I always wear a corset.

So basically just make a boned, separate version of the bodice to wear
underneath?
But a little bit longer to avoid those unsightly bulges?

>damn right.   Cartridge pleating it would be even better.

I know this would be best, but my fabric is kind of thin, and even if I
interline it, I'm not sure if it would work. I'll just have to try it and
see. oh.. and I would stitch the cartridge pleated skirt onto a separate
waistband, right? Just to take pressure off the bodice? I could tie them
together with little dangly bits..

Thanks so much!
This has given me *fabullous* ideas :]

Kris

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:55:27 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Linda,
  I would test the leather first.  The stitch length may be so close that it
cuts your leather.  When I sew leather, I always lengthen the stitch,
especially if the leather is as supple as you say.
   Is your machine able to sew through it?  Some can't handle it.
   Michelle

>Linda Yordy wrote:
>> Am looking for advice from those of you who know about sewing
>> with leather.
>> I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a
>> leather sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and
>> should go through the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer
>> stitches than I would with woven fabric.
>
>I would *definately* get leather needles!  But I use the same stitch
>length I do on woven fabrics (2 on my machine).
>

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:00:02 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
References: <37D73BA0.6C6C6B53@bc.sympatico.ca> <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu> <37D940B1.781CC2B5@home.com> <37D9432F.20BFC6C3@serv.net> <37D949D0.E5F853C8@home.com> <37D9D506.79213505@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Carolyn Richardson wrote:
> 
> 
> Maybe it's just me but a *farthingale*under*a*cotehardie*?? Are you
> mad, woman?  I don't mean to sound rude but these 2 garments are at
> least a hundred years apart.  No flame intended but I think you really
> should stick to wearing it at SF cons, because undoubtedly someone at
> Ren Faire or SCA would make rude comments.  Stick to lining it with
> something comfortable and wear a chemise under it - or develop a very
> thick skin (pun intended).

Perhaps I was too sick when I wrote the post...I thought I had *already*
stated that this garment was *intended* for SF cons and NOT for Faire or
SCA.  I also stated that I wear a chemise under all my cotehardies.  At
SCA (which I don't do anymore) I'd be more likely to be found in 12th C
garb anyway and our Faire is set at Henry VIII's court so I'm unlikely
to be wearing a cotehardie *there*.  I'm making it because of the
challange...well, and I wanted to see what it would look like and
someone gave me the leather to try it and see how it would come out (for
nefarious purposes...I think he wants to make ball gowns for women with
far more money than I and given his talent with design and leather they
should be stunning) and I go to Chattacon every January, which while
it's not as bad as some (being in TN) isn't exactly *warm*.

Kat
hoping to have corrected any misconceptions about addressing a question
put by another poster
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:15:34 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Tandy Leather. 

>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>Pinking Tools?
>
>Where?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Drea


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress forms
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:18:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: rima@anet.net
>OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
>adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
>she's 4 inches taller and thinner!
>Rima


   I think it really depends on how much of a size difference there is
between you. I think most of them are made to cover a small range of sizes.
Height doesn't matter so much.
  I was wondering thought,  How are you go to do this without a fight?  I
don't think I could share. ;) I would want it ALL the time!
   Michelle

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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

The Rogue wrote:
> 
<snip>
> I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last
> year.
> Even on of the indestructible black Singer straight sew models.  Now I
> handsew everything, and found that I really like handsewing much more
> than working with a machine.  This works well with the 20th century
> Norse costuming I've been doing, but the thought of doing later period
> clothing worries me.  Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in
> an authentic manner (if I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun
> with it!!) or materials or methods to avoid.

Well, since I didn't even *have* a sewing machine for the first 6 years
I was sewing I think I can answer at least part of this! <grin>  I've
sewn everything from 70's peasant blouses to prairie bonnets to full
length gowns by hand with no problems (except for thread knotting up on
me!).  I always use quilting or button thread for handsewing.  I run out
about a yard and a half, thread it through the needle, double it and
knot it and if the thread gives me too much trouble I *wax* it (amazing
what that can do!).  I either fold my seam over and under (so the cut
edge is covered and sew down the middle of that or I sew a shirt tail
hem all the way around and then sew the appropriate seams together.  I
tend to take four - five stitches at a time and I use the thinnest
needles I can find.  I never, ever use a thimble (which shocked the heck
out of my grandmothers) but that's because I've yet to find one that
feels comfortable at *all* (conventional, ring, leather, quilters etc). 
I often do garments completely by hand if time allows (although for
theatrical sewing I tend to go with the machine for times sake and if
I'm pressed on my own garments will sew the interior seams by machine
and just do the finishing by hand).  If you are sewing through a number
of thickness' of fabric (ex a corset) you may find it easier to use a
good thimble and bring the needle through and then back one stitch at a
time.  Of course, the closer and more even the stitches the better.  I
have used a leather needle on a garment that had one layer of canvas and
two of cloth because I got tired of bending needles.  The biggest thing
is to match your needle and thread to the garment material.  If you
haven't already, you might look into picking up a set of 'craft
needles'.  They generally contain two curved needles and a glovers
needle, all of which I've found helpful while handsewing.  My best
advice is, if it doesn't work the first time...try switching needle or
thread or both.  Enjoy.  BTW I'm curious...how exactly are you breaking
the machines?

Kat
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:30:53 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


->I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last
year.

   OH dear! How did that happen?


Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or doublet?  Any advice
>would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in an authentic manner (if
>I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun with it!!) or materials or
>methods to avoid.
>
>Zelda
  Back stitching is a must for the corset.

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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: The iceman cometh? Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:43:13 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo Sheridan

Re your "iceman."

The San Francisco Chronicle has a article dated Aug 25. It's in their online 
archives. You need to access the site at

www.sfgate.com

and find their Aug 25 edition. Article is titled "Ancient Man Uncovered in 
Canadian Ice/Hunter preserved with clothing, tools" The author is James 
Brooke.

Would dearly love to be involved in the clothing study/reconstruction 
research generated by this find. Working on this kind of stuff has been a 
dream of mine since I was a kid, way too long ago to remember. Wish I knew 
who to talk to about getting started in a career in this. Ah well. 
Anyway,enjoy the article.

Lonna (Enyd)
Oakland, CA


>From: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
>Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 16:57:17 -0500
>
>Greetings everyone:
>
>I'm kinda late for 09-09-99. An introvert, and damn proud of it, I only 
>post
>when I feel I can make a contribution or pick people's brains. Besides,
>it's hard enough to wrestle my husband off ebay, (wasting our hard-earned
>sustenance - it would be cheaper if he drank and ran around with wild
>women), long enough for me read the e-mail. Sigh! I wanted him to become
>more computer literate, but I created a monster! As well, if I was a 
>regular
>participant, members might ask me how the such n' such project was
>going, and I would be forced to admit it has joined the ranks of my other 
>1/4,
>1/2, 3/4, and 99.9% finished projects! Although it appears as if I'm not 
>the
>only
>one who doesn't finish a costume until the morning of an event.
>
>Not long ago someone posted a message regarding news of another
>"iceman" discovered in British Columbia. I'm ashamed to admit that
>I shrugged it off as another internet rumour - after all I'm Canadian,
>and I haven't heard anything about it! Time went by, and no one on
>the list responded, and there was nothing in the news about it. My
>opinion was confirmed.
>
>Much to my surprise, a recent issue of the American journal "Science"
>had a brief article on the discovery. Unfortunately, idiot girl galloped 
>out the
>
>door ("It's Friday, blessed Friday, yippee!) without her backpack 
>containing
>the article.
>
>From memory - the body was discovered August 14th in a glacier in
>northern BC by hikers, and is now in storage in the Yukon until native
>groups and researchers reach an agreement on how to research it. The
>article suggested it was expected that an amicable agreement could be
>reached, unlike the case of Kennewick (Kessewick?) man, a controversial
>U.S.find.
>
>The body was reported as wearing a finely woven hat and a cloak of small
>pelts similar to squirrel or groundhog. A spear thrower was also found.
>The body could be as old as 10,000 years old or as recent as the early
>European occupation.
>
>"Science" is published by the American Association for the Advancement of
>Science, relying on my unreliable memory, and they have a web page with
>access to a few, but not all, of their articles.
>
>Off-topic - I'm rather annoyed that this has received so little coverage in 
>the
>Canadian media. Sometimes this self-effacing Canadian attitude goes a 
>little
>too far, (speaking as an ardent Canadian nationalist) especially when it
>involves
>such an interesting find.
>
>Recently there was a book published on Canadian social attitudes called
>"Sex in the Snow". A catchy title, and I can't help but wonder if this 
>iceman
>didn't meet his end....
>
>And my apologies to the original poster, who ever you are! I will never 
>doubt
>you
>again.
>
>Sheridan Alder

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 00:54:28 1999
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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Medieval Misc.
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

I've used the MM houppelande pattern.  Can't speak to its authenticity, I
was using it for a fantasy costume.  However, it seemed to go together
easily - everything fit, etc.  I don't remember having to alter extensively
(size 18-20) for width, and I'm 5'11" so I didn't have to shorten anything
(the most common complaint I've heard locally is that they are too long).
I also remember not using the directions, just assembling it the way that
seemed logical.

The biggest problem was that I was using the floor-length sleeves, and they
were lined, and the sheer quantity of fabric became rather daunting by the
time it was all together!

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 00:57:20 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Soft lining for leather "cote"Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 23:10:19 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


Or you can try lining the "cote" itself in a soft cotton that breathes 
(preferably natural with no sizing or dye added). Then you can add a cotton 
chemise under it. Don't know how period that would be, but I think it would 
take care of some of the sweating/sticking to skin problems. Instead of a 
farthingale to hold it away from your body, how about a soft petticoat? 
(Carolyn, my memory fails me here, were petticoat-like underpinnings worn in 
the 14th century? That's the one thing I've been unable to figure out which 
is rather frustrating since my persona is from the early/mid 14th century.)

Whatever you come up with, Kat, please scan some pictures to the list. I'm 
quivering with anticipation at just how this is going to look. BTW, what 
kind of buttons are you using? Lapis beads/buttons would be a lovely accent.

Lonna (Enyd)

>From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:05:26 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>
>
>Kat & Kent wrote:
>
> > -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> >
> > I've got the main body almost done (center front is open still).  I need
> > to put in the lining and put on the sleeves although at this point I'm
> > probably going to make them tie-ons.  It's out of a midnight to navy
> > blue light to medium weight leather with the suede side out.  Because
> > it's a floor length I had to use three different sides to cut it out.
> > It's seven panels (the back was cut on the fold) and will lace up the
> > front to a square neckline.  If I'm wearing it anywhere that isn't air
> > conditioned or cold I plan on wearing a farthingale under it to hold the
> > skirt away from my body.
>
>Maybe it's just me but a *farthingale*under*a*cotehardie*?? Are you mad,
>woman?  I don't mean to sound rude but these 2 garments are at least a
>hundred years apart.  No flame intended but I think you really should stick
>to wearing it at SF cons, because undoubtedly someone at Ren Faire or SCA
>would make rude comments.  Stick to lining it with something comfortable 
>and
>wear a chemise under it - or develop a very thick skin (pun intended).
>
>Carolyn/Tetchubah
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 23:54:09 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


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-----Original Message-----
From:	KATHARINE WHISLER [SMTP:KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu]
Sent:	Friday, September 10, 1999 11:26 PM
To:	h-costume@indra.com
Subject:	H-COST: Boring clothes?


So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
--Katharine Whisler


[Carrie Veenstra]=20

I wear t-shirts and shorts/sweats/jeans (%100 cotton EVERYTHING)  until =
they are plain worn out, I think because I'm always working on something =
and this is the most comfortable/washable option. I don't dress up very =
often anyhow, and even in the realm of historical I like making =
costumes/clothes for others much more than for myself.=20

For Ren, my clothing style really mirrors everyday -- mix-n-match =
peasant wear -- for much the same reasons.

For 'Dress Up'   < for what most people would consider casual or =
business dress up to formal>  I grab either hand-me-downs from my mom's =
closet, or whatever doesn't hurt the pocketbook too much  at Lane =
Bryant's <not much!>.   If I had a  bit of a smaller dress size I might =
get into shopping more, but large-sized fashion at almost every level is =
still very cost prohibitive.

No, I don't own a neon pink spandex crushed velvet minidress...

Carrie  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 01:27:08 1999
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dress Forms
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:52:46 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>

I lost track of the original poster, but that dress form on the farthingale's site looked very neat to me.  I've been beating on the mental puzzle of trying to dresses to-be-worn-with-a-corset on a standard type dress form and kept coming up puzzled... looks like with that form, I could fit the corset to the person, lace the corset to the form, and bingo-bango: Friend-who-agreed to be costumed doesn't have to stick around for most of the gory details (or watching over my shoulder, as the case may be).  Being as that I am a Midnight to 4 am kind of worker, this would be VERY desirable.

The price didn't look *too* outrageous for the product, tho I did just buy myself an adjustable dress form (cheapy cheapy) off of ebay to play with ($30 including shipping!!!) I, too, would be interested in general opinion of the "skwishy"  form  you linked to!

to the rest of the list:  is there another more obvious way to do this without the costume-ee present? I've considered the 'wrapped-in-plaster-build-your-own'  form making process, too, but then I'm stuck storing multiple bulky forms, and that method doesn't solve the problem of a stable base on the unit. (Also, it's even harder to convince people to wrap themselves in plaster cloths & laytex than it is to convince them to wear a corset in the first place...)

Carrie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 01:44:12 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 01:58:01 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Soft lining for leather "cote"Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I've already stated that I wear a chemise with cotehardies (heck, I wear
a chemise with many, many things) but they won't keep the leather *off*
my skin as far as I want if it's *hot* out...not that this is likely to
be an issue...I'm not going to be tromping through any woods in this
one! <grin>  I wish I could afford lapis buttons but I'm more likely to
grommet this so that it has more 'ease' or use 'buttonholes'.  IOW it
will lace not button.  If I manage to get a pic of it once it's done and
actually get it developed, I'll scan it and put it up somewhere.  As for
underpinnings...a chemise or underdress as I recall, don't remember
coming across anything else but it's not my primary period.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 02:47:40 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 01:00:19 -0700
From: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
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-Poster: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>

I heard about this on KTLA (a Los Angeles TV Station).  I heard it
mentioned on a CBC radio broadcast once in the early morning.  There
was also a small snippet in the National Post.  This all happened on
one day, then nothing.  Seems wars, slaughter, political machinations
and such sell more ads and papers than something of historical
importance.

Such are our days.

Morgan Crawford of Shrewsbury
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 03:23:55 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 01:26:46 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
References: <19990910225205.66050.qmail@hotmail.com> <3.0.5.32.19990910214711.007a3100@antir.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kris wrote:

> oh! oh! I have LOTS of navy.. AND cranberry.. in the same fabric..
> *plotting a new scheme* Maybe I'll do THAT for my It.Ren, and use the light
> one for.. something else down the road..

Either would be good.  Green too (everyone break into a round of "Greensleeves"
;-) )

> So basically just make a boned, separate version of the bodice to wear
> underneath?
> But a little bit longer to avoid those unsightly bulges?

Yep.  My corset's a slightly different shape than the bodice and it laces in back
(I usually use side openings on my Italians - easier to get into).

> I know this would be best, but my fabric is kind of thin, and even if I
> interline it, I'm not sure if it would work. I'll just have to try it and
> see. oh.. and I would stitch the cartridge pleated skirt onto a separate
> waistband, right? Just to take pressure off the bodice? I could tie them
> together with little dangly bits..

I've cartridge pleated just about every weight of fabric except *really*
lightweight stuff.  I sewed some twill tape to the top of it to give it more body
for cartridge pleating.  And I frequently will pleat straight to the bodice rather
than a separate waist band.  Depends on the weight.

Carolyn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 03:49:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:00:52 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
In-Reply-To: <37DA0C13.93437093@bc.sympatico.ca>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

     There may eventually be more.  Remember archaologists pour over each
silly millimeter in excruciating detail, and then do it again another
several times just to be certain they have not missed, nor misinterpreted
anything--and in this case, they also mustneeds consult the tribe whose
elder they have deemed this 'iceman' to be in every detail and obtain
permissions from the tribe for doing it all.  It takes time.  I was amazed
to note that people are still wearing hats very similar to his now--or at
least I know someone who does. Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 03:54:28 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:06:22 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 01:26 AM 09/11/1999, Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>wrote:
>Kris wrote: oh! oh! I have LOTS of navy.. AND cranberry.. in the same
fabric..
>> *plotting a new scheme* Maybe I'll do THAT for my It.Ren, and use the light
>> one for.. something else down the road..
>           Either would be good.  Green too (everyone break into a round
of "Greensleeves" ;-) 
      But--each one takes a different verse, please, there are so many from
which to choose.  I'm getting excited about doing my first Italian Ren
outfit, too, and will attempt more authenticity than I ever have before.  I
decided on side lacings, too, since, alas, I have no 'tiring maid, nor
beloved who might aid me to lace otherwise.  -- Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 04:03:58 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:17:15 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I go as unique as I can get. Now that's not to say wild or crazy. I go for items that you won't see on anyone else...probably ever. I watch alot of style TV so I pick up on new looks and go for those, only problem is I' live in backwards-ass tallahassee FL (more like south georgia I think) they don't get things around here until about a year and 1/2 after it's gone back out of style. I remember about 4 or 5 years ago I went to every store in both malls and several independant stores loking for a plain black jacket with a leopard print collar COULD not find one. Finally I ordered one from a catalog, needless to say I got alot of weird looks at first from the classmates. About a year and 1/2 later everyone had one, they were all the rage by the time I'd tired of mine. It's not that I fancy myself a trend setter, lol it's just they are REALLY slow to catch on to EVERYTHING down here.

Anyway back to the answer to your question. I don't dress plain. I find that noone dresses up for anything anymore (my fiance and I went to a show at the FSU opera last christmas and several of the "ladies" were wearing sneakers and jogging pants...can you imagine?)
I try to put a little bit of the excitement back into dressing that everyone seems to have lost. When I shop for a suit coat I don't go for the plain and dull, I"ll opt for heavy embroidery. I love heels with lots of fine detail work etc. Alot of times I can't find what I want so I have to buythe basic and take it home and "doll it up" myself. Too much of life has been stripped to the basic, bare necessities I think. Ladies no longer lunch, dinner parties are no longer and EVENT and people stick to that, buy 12 wardrobe pieces that all match each other and that's it. 

well maybe it's just me, lol. I've always been discribed as "unique" so if my opinion offends anyone I'm sorry. 


---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 


>So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>
>--Katharine Whisler
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:30:30 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>


I found the exact address for the shoes I spoke of in my earlier post. They appeared in the picture to be pinkish red... I appologize because the picture's captions says red; so I suppose they are just red. They are how ever made by Peter Fox like I thought and lo and behold they are on sale as well. The exact address is http://www.peterfox.com/796901R.html . Hope this helps a little. Also they don't come in white they come in Ivory...I was all off on the color, but you must forgive me it had been a month or two in actuality since I've been there. Time flys when you're on the net. lol

---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 04:55:53 1999
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From: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 05:02:04 -0500
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-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>

Katherine:  Since I missed de-lurking day all together (long work hours)
and since your question IS one I can answer, here I am.
     One of several non-traditional classes that I teach is English As A
Second Language, which means that I teach foreign-born students reading,
writing, and speaking of English.  One of the advantages of the class is
that the students come from nine countries.  An international splash of
fashion styles, colors, and fabrics show up daily in class.  Over the past
couple of years, I've found myself adapting to (or adopting) various
garments from each of my students' cultural settings, most of which have
remained fairly steady over long periods of time.  My absolute favorite
this year is Mandarian sheaths.  (I'm medium tall, thin, and proportionally
top heavy, so the style looks good.  Unfortunately, I'm not perpetually
young.)  A side advantage is that my students have taken to the game of
"dressing Meg properly" in their native styles.  They are more comfortable
talking about a subject they're familiar with, even though they struggle to
find comparable English words.  I'm learning a goodly amount about fabrics
and construction (modern) techniques along the way and we sometimes nearly
burst laughing at their attempts to "reform" me.  (Their attempts to
explain politely in English that my clumsiness in trying to sink down
gracefully in an obi makes for many cluckings of tongues.)   I enjoy the
game too and try to play by their rules whenever possible, although so far
I've refused to change my reddish-blonde hair to black.
     My biggest pet peeve is unmatched plaids!  Current manufacturers seem
to be visually impaired concerning plaids.  If the plaid in a garment is
unmatched, it's cheap, IMHO, regardless of what the price tag reads!
Meg
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 07:23:31 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 08:29:42 -0400
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Boring clothes?
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-Poster: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>

At 10:45 PM -0600 9/10/99, owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com wrote:
>So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?


I tend to wear "boring", conservative clothes.  Why?  Because I can't 
stand the fashion that is forced on us year after year, such as retro 
60s or whatever.  I want to have good quality clothes that will last 
for years, especially as I'm petite and have a hard time finding 
clothes that fit me (why do they never keep size Small in stock???). 
If I had my way, there would be plenty of 1900s-1920s style and not 
the 90's version of these style in stock.    Shoes, as well.   I'm 
sorry, but those squarish shoes with huge, boxy heels just don't 
appeal to me - I have small, high-arched feet and these would just 
look ridiculous on me.  I find the shoes from the 1900s-1920s very 
stylish.

As it is, I go for clothes that you'd find in LL Beans, and maybe a 
little Laura Ashley.   Also, natural fiber as much as possible. 
Meaning, no pantyhose for me (I have dry skin, and in winter I have 
to slap on lotion on my legs every other hour or so).



Lola - mailto:lola@his.com
Gospodi Pomilui | Lord Have Mercy | Get a Mac and a Palm!
http://www.his.com/~lola/ljl.html | ICQ: 14914550
I'm in Bowie, MD, USA, halfway between DC and Annapolis.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 08:03:54 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 08:09:14 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress Forms
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

For those of you who are doing the 'Duct-tape Double' type of form, when
you fill it with foam (the spray in, expandable type) just stick a decent
sized dowel/closet pole in the center and then use a Christmas tree stand
to hold it when you need to use it. My friend Brenda and I made her a
'Double' which we did this with and it works well. The good thing about
the foam filled form is that it's pretty light weight and doesn't pull
itself over. 

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 09:13:17 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/10/99 11:24:44 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

<< Back stitching is a must for the corset. >>
If you look inside most hand sewn period clothing, you will find either that 
the entire garment has been made with a small, regular backstitch, or with a 
running backstitch. (3 or 4 running stitches followed by a backstitch).  The 
seam allowances are also most often overcast to prevent fraying.  Hope this 
helps.  Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 09:18:37 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 02:10:35 +0200
From: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------91497BAE78F37E54487CFB70
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> >To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th century
> >enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!
> >Kate Bunting
> >King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot
> --------
> Jill and Kate,
> I do 17th c. (Cavalier Association, Columbus Ohio, US). We do ECW in the US
> and American colonial 17th century.  This summer, went to the muster at
> Salem Village 1630. If I ever get to the UK again (last trip was 1984),
> I'd love to attend some ECW and other events!
>
> Marsha Hamilton
>
And here are even more ;-) !I belong to an English-/German cooperative
group that does French and English baroque in the 17th century.
We want to focus on civilian events but there is also a regiment being
built up, the
"Kirke`s Lambs".
We`re just starting out, if you`d like to know more about the group,
visit
http://www.kipar.org, there are some pics and information about 17th
century dress up as well.

Many greetings,
Diana


--------------91497BAE78F37E54487CFB70
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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>>To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th century
>enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!
>Kate Bunting
>King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot
--------
Jill and Kate,&nbsp;&nbsp;
I do 17th c. (Cavalier Association, Columbus Ohio, US). We do ECW in the US
and American colonial 17th century.&nbsp; This summer, went to the muster at
Salem Village 1630. If I ever get to the UK again (last trip was 1984),
I'd love to attend some ECW and other events!

Marsha Hamilton</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
And here are even more ;-) !I belong to an English-/German cooperative
group that does French and English baroque in the 17th century.
<BR>We want to focus on civilian events but there is also a regiment being
built up, the
<BR>"Kirke`s Lambs".
<BR>We`re just starting out, if you`d like to know more about the group,
visit
<BR><A HREF="http://www.kipar.org">http://www.kipar.org</A>, there are some pics and information about 17th
century dress up as well.

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------91497BAE78F37E54487CFB70--


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 10:38:49 1999
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-Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net

aleed wrote:
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> Pinking Tools?
> 
> Where?
I got my otherhalf who's a metal worker to make me one as an experiment
as I had never been able to find them. We also tried to silk stamp with
a similar tool without the cutting edge which worked perfectly  but the
tool has to be heated
> 
> I'd love to find some of these.
 So would I anyone any clues? 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea
> 
> On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote:
> 
> >
> > -Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net
> >
> > The slashes were often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or
> > gum tragacanth. Also as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a
> > die you hit with a hammer) could be used hot this often sealed the edge
> > of the fabric. I've experimented with both of these and they work
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 10:38:50 1999
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-Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net

Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> 
> At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
> often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
> as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
> could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
> experimented with both of these and they work
>            Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
See earlier reply sent
> these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
> arabic/gum tragacanth? 
you can buy it at art shops/ herbalists etc they are both resins which
you heat to break down.  

 Carol
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 10:53:38 1999
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	 Sat, 11 Sep 1999 09:04:38 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: The iceman cometh? Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 11:37:26 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Here's the link for the BC ice man article
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/ar
chive/1999/08/25/MN77274.DTL.

The comparable find the article discusses is the ice man now
in the museum at Balzo, Italy, just north of Venice and just
south of the Italian Alps.  There was  a great Public
Broadcasting Station documentary  on the Balzo ice man.
What hit me about it was how many different people in
different disciplines worked on the guy. There were your
classic archeologists, of course, but now forensic
pathologists, which would be an MD degree, a huge array of
biolologists--both botony and wildlife types, textiles
experts, metallurgists (he was carrying a soft copper
knife), insect-ologists (sorry, can't remember the exact
word), refrigeration experts, chemists, carbon-dating types
and many more.  Except for the forensic pathologist, they
were all Masters and PhD types in their fields. The experts
were able to determine the time of year he died to a single
week or two by identifying the life cycle of insects and
seeds caught in his clothing, as well as the seasonal
availability of his stomach contents.  He was perhaps late
40's in age, old for the time, and his state of health was
precarious in several ways, including deformed bones.  He
carried his own medicines in a pouch at his belt for the
ailments which troubled him. His area of origin was traced
to Balzo by several means, including the presence of a toxic
gaseaous byproduct of copper smelting on his clothes or in
his body.

It was a huge international team which worked on him, not a
single individual.  Except for the MD, almost all large
universities offer degrees in the other fields.  If in total
doubt, look for a degree program in your nearest city which
offers a full archeology program, preferably extending to
the Masters and PhD level, which will mean they are active
researchers with international contacts.  Opportunities for
research like this are made through academic community
contacts. The work on the BC iceman will take a number of
years if it isn't early disproven that the find is very old.
While the find is extraordinary, comparable extraordinary
finds are being unearthed around the world, given those in
the field plenty to do.  Without the degree, you can still
research and write and explore your interest as an
avocation.

Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of L.L. Johnson
> Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 1:43 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: The iceman cometh? Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman
redux
>
>
>
> -Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
>
> Hullo Sheridan
>
> Re your "iceman."
>
> The San Francisco Chronicle has a article dated Aug 25.
It's
> in their online
> archives. You need to access the site at
>
> www.sfgate.com
>
> and find their Aug 25 edition. Article is titled "Ancient
Man
> Uncovered in
> Canadian Ice/Hunter preserved with clothing, tools" The
> author is James
> Brooke.
>
> Would dearly love to be involved in the clothing
study/reconstruction
> research generated by this find. Working on this kind of
> stuff has been a
> dream of mine since I was a kid, way too long ago to
> remember. Wish I knew
> who to talk to about getting started in a career in this.
Ah well.
> Anyway,enjoy the article.
>
> Lonna (Enyd)
> Oakland, CA
>
>
> >From: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
> >Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
> >Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 16:57:17 -0500
> >
> >Greetings everyone:
> >
> >I'm kinda late for 09-09-99. An introvert, and damn proud
of
> it, I only
> >post
> >when I feel I can make a contribution or pick people's
> brains. Besides,
> >it's hard enough to wrestle my husband off ebay, (wasting
> our hard-earned
> >sustenance - it would be cheaper if he drank and ran
around with wild
> >women), long enough for me read the e-mail. Sigh! I
wanted
> him to become
> >more computer literate, but I created a monster! As well,
if I was a
> >regular
> >participant, members might ask me how the such n' such
project was
> >going, and I would be forced to admit it has joined the
> ranks of my other
> >1/4,
> >1/2, 3/4, and 99.9% finished projects! Although it
appears
> as if I'm not
> >the
> >only
> >one who doesn't finish a costume until the morning of an
event.
> >
> >Not long ago someone posted a message regarding news of
another
> >"iceman" discovered in British Columbia. I'm ashamed to
admit that
> >I shrugged it off as another internet rumour - after all
I'm
> Canadian,
> >and I haven't heard anything about it! Time went by, and
no one on
> >the list responded, and there was nothing in the news
about it. My
> >opinion was confirmed.
> >
> >Much to my surprise, a recent issue of the American
journal "Science"
> >had a brief article on the discovery. Unfortunately,
idiot
> girl galloped
> >out the
> >
> >door ("It's Friday, blessed Friday, yippee!) without her
backpack
> >containing
> >the article.
> >
> >From memory - the body was discovered August 14th in a
glacier in
> >northern BC by hikers, and is now in storage in the Yukon
> until native
> >groups and researchers reach an agreement on how to
research it. The
> >article suggested it was expected that an amicable
agreement could be
> >reached, unlike the case of Kennewick (Kessewick?) man, a
> controversial
> >U.S.find.
> >
> >The body was reported as wearing a finely woven hat and a
> cloak of small
> >pelts similar to squirrel or groundhog. A spear thrower
was
> also found.
> >The body could be as old as 10,000 years old or as recent
as
> the early
> >European occupation.
> >
> >"Science" is published by the American Association for
the
> Advancement of
> >Science, relying on my unreliable memory, and they have a
> web page with
> >access to a few, but not all, of their articles.
> >
> >Off-topic - I'm rather annoyed that this has received so
> little coverage in
> >the
> >Canadian media. Sometimes this self-effacing Canadian
> attitude goes a
> >little
> >too far, (speaking as an ardent Canadian nationalist)
> especially when it
> >involves
> >such an interesting find.
> >
> >Recently there was a book published on Canadian social
> attitudes called
> >"Sex in the Snow". A catchy title, and I can't help but
> wonder if this
> >iceman
> >didn't meet his end....
> >
> >And my apologies to the original poster, who ever you
are! I
> will never
> >doubt
> >you
> >again.
> >
> >Sheridan Alder
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
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majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 10:53:57 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost:
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 09:08:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Ginnaphure,

THANK YOU!! I can't believe it, I was looking on the net last night at every
bridal shoe shop I could find and I saw the Peter Fox one, but for some
reason I didn't click on it! (am I stupid or what?) It is EXACTLY what I
want AND it's on sale!!

Now I just have to justify $195 for a pair of shoes to my husband, who will
probably never let me buy them anyway!

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 11:21:57 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 11:43:57 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>



Talk about boring .... I have to wear an uniform with badge and smoky bear hat!
When I'm on the ranch it is cotton and comfort.  Personal business wear is
bright and flowing, always dresses, with lots of jewelry.  I have very long and
curly hair.   I've followed all threads on long heavy hair.  I do turn of the
century  programs so the hair is braided and up.  Has anyone heard the old
"proper" way to wear hair when coming of age?  Is it the age of 16 when a girl
can wear her hair up or age 14?
Ninya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 11:29:01 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I confess!  In my everyday life, I wear shorts and T-shirts , denim dresses,
sweats, and jeans, depending on the season.  I figure I'm doing well if I
manage to come up with clothes that aren't bleach spotted or torn.  This is
largely due to poverty, living in the middle of nowhere and having young,
clothing destructive children, but I'm trying to get over it.  Now that I'm
teaching costume and trying to drum up business, it's embarrassing to be
standing at the fabric store representing myself as an authority when I'm
dressed in rags.

When I actually make an effort to get dressed up a bit, I tend to
comfortable pants or skirts and loose tops, often in black or neutral
colors, and accesorized with interesting bead jewelry and jewel toned
accesories. I call this my "arsty look".  My favorite piece of clothing is a
vest I made of black cotton,   with a patchwork collage on the front made
from sample swatches of bright prints from Thai Silks.  

Having been a teenager in the 70's, I feel that I've already done my time,
and I don't wear  high heels  except for very formal occasions.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 13:08:32 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Source for gemstone bead buttons/Soft lining for leather "cote"
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 11:21:23 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hi Kat

-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I wish I could afford lapis buttons but I'm more likely to
>grommet this so that it has more 'ease' or use 'buttonholes'.  IOW it
>will lace not button.

Now that I think a bit more about it, in this case, lacing would work better 
and it would save wear and tear on the fingertips from sewing on the 
buttons.

But, if you do decide that you'd like to use gem bead buttons on another 
project, FireMountain Gems is a very good source. These folks used to have a 
store in LA back in the 70's but now they're up in Cave Junction, OR. You 
can find them on the Web under FireMountain Gems. This site is mostly a 
place to order one of their catalogs. Their phone number is (800)292-9304. 
They are an excellent company and have decent prices. They have a lot of 
other neat stuff for beadworkers, jewelers, and costumers.

I found a 16" strand of Howlite (dyed Lapis) 10mm beads (about 41 beads) for 
$6.83 per strand (If you buy more than 3, there is a proportional discount). 
They also have a 12mm (34 beads) for $9.82. Their regular lapis runs from 
$14.95 (for 4mm) to $29.95 (for 8mm). I got some good deals on peridot, 
garnet, and amber bits for my 20's silk and velvet dress and coccoon coat 
(almost have everything I need to start building it).

If I manage to get a pic of it once it's done and
actually get it developed, I'll scan it and put it up somewhere.

Great. Am looking forward to seeing it.

Lonna (Enyd)

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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>> My heart sunk with dread when I realized the long "ribbon" type slashes,
>> seen in German, Swiss, landsknecht, and women's mid-17th c. sleeves
>> do appear to be lined and finished on the edges. (Too much work!)

There are woodcuts of some soldiers with ribbon type slashes that are
unlined, but it only works for a decently heavy leather or heavy felted
wool.  Most of the other fancy or thinner fabrics are lined. If the ribbon
slashes done't have enough body they just look wrong, they will twist and
crinkle individually.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 13:49:16 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:09:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>
>--Katharine Whisler

I wear natural fibers, cottons and some rayons.  I wont wear polyester or
other synthetics. I only wear leather shoes, usually hicking boots.  I can
count every pair of shoes I own on one hand.
   I have 3 children and go to college full time. There is no going out to a
nice place...it just doesn't happen.
  So...I wear jeans, sweats, t-shirts in the winter and long A-line dresses
in the summer.  The most work I do on laundry day, is hanging something to
dry. I wont buy something that  is dry clean only.   Sometimes I drool at
what others are wearing, the latest thing, and then I realize that by the
time I would have a chance to wear it, it would be out of style. Classic
styles are better.
  I guess, I would have to be classified under the boring clothes side.
   Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 13:51:04 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:07:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid: was:Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

This brings up a good question... I have a great
corset that I would *love* to wear more often, but the
only one around to help me lace it is my boyfriend who
won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it by
yourself?

Sarah


> I ever have before.  I
> decided on side lacings, too, since, alas, I have no
> 'tiring maid, nor
> beloved who might aid me to lace otherwise.  --
> Gra/inne
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 14:16:06 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

Sarah Toney wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> 
> This brings up a good question... I have a great
> corset that I would *love* to wear more often, but the
> only one around to help me lace it is my boyfriend who
> won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it by
> yourself?
> 

Make your lace really, really long.  Loosely lace the corset while not
wearing it, slide it on over your head and then start pulling on the
laces until you have it as tight as you wish.  This does leave a lot of
extra lace when you have it done up so I tie big loopy bows and tuck
inside as needed.

Alexandria
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 14:22:43 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 15:35:50 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/10/1999 21:29:38 Pacific Daylight Time, 
KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu writes:

<< So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
 life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
 fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic? >>

That's an interesting question.  I think that the more into the history of 
fashion, and the elaborate intricacies of costume I get, the less anything 
but simple modern clothing appeals to me (on a day to day basis). Since 
surgery a few years ago, I've begun to dress down (pants rather than 
skirts/suits at work) and affect a more casual daily mode of dress.  I still 
go "all out" at any opportunity to dress up, but it is no longer a part of my 
routine to constantly sport the latest fashion, and I've always been a 
clothes horse.  I think that it is a cost issue, meaning I'd rather have half 
a dozen really really spectacular period pieces and boring daily clothes.  

Fellow listers?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 15:37:38 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
To: h-costume@indra.com, grnmanforge@earthlink.net
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/10/1999 17:51:35 Pacific Daylight Time, 
cjcannon@greymists.com writes:

<<  Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
 these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
 arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol >>

Carol, contact Dan at grnmanforge@earthlink.net, he makes marvelous pinking 
tools, and his wife is a member of this list.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:41:16 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Boring clothes?
In-Reply-To: <v04205515b3fff9e5d116@[205.252.121.168]>
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 <199909110445.WAA16605@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

           I cannot afford designer clothes, nor anything approaching such.
 I am not a seamstress, truly.  I sew at a basic level.  I mostly wear
comfortable clothes that are not excessive for work and most other daily
happenings.  If I find them in my favorite colors, I will buy & wear
those--which are: deep true blue, royal purple [blue-toned, not red-toned],
deep teal [blue or green], emerald green.  I won't wear 'muddy' colors.
Most reds, pinks, oranges, and yellows do not suit my very pale
complexion/ruddy cheeks/red hair.  I don't wear most of those, either,
therefore.  Bittersweet is fine.  I love the feel of silk, cashmere, and
other costly fabrics, but cannot indulge the taste often.  I like flowy,
drapy skirts, dresses and nightgowns.
I don't wear tight, constricting anything, by preference.  I am still
experimenting to find my niche in Medieval attire.  I like Empire-waisted
dresses in part because of the way they move.  There are other periods with
which I might experiment had I outlets for them, but I have not been able
to justify to myself the cost of robing myself from those periods w/o that.
:-)  And now, you know more about me than most of the people around me do,
in terms of what I like.--Carol
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:09:18 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/99 1:13:52 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
dragonlair@wireweb.net writes:

<< any suggestions on how to lace it by
 > yourself? >>
There is also a hooking busk which hooks down the front available at corset 
supply houses.  Cheryl
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:10:12 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/1999 12:37:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
MzScahlett@aol.com writes:

<< So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
  life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
  fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic? > >>

As a designer for the entertainment industry and a full time college 
instructor, I have to be very presentable everyday, stand out enough to be 
noticed but not too much. Until recently, my entire wardrobe for fall/winter 
was black with a small amount of white while spring/summer was beige with 
white. Last year I finally discovered color and now my spring/summer clothes 
are reds and greens! What a change. I still have to wear heels and hose even 
though my heart is in flats. I feel like I lived out of the J.Peterman 
catalog for the last six or seven years, but as it is no longer available, I 
am looking for a new source of clothing supply. I don't have time to sew for 
myself!  Basically Donna Karan and Anna Sui are the designers I gravitate to 
at this point in time and being in the Los Angeles area, am able to get their 
clothes at a decent price. I guess location plays a big part of what types of 
clothes are available along with what one must wear for ones job. Miss Mela 
PS Hi Penny!
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:51:40 -0400
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

	Hi, I've been lurking for a while and am very impressed by how knowlegeable
people are... Anyhow, I am making a elizabethan upper-middle-class costume
for a ren. faire, and I wanted to know if tied-on sleeves were appropriate
for English fashion at that time? I am a little confused about sleeves in
general, too.
		Thank you!
			Kristen

Kristen Gee
kristen.gee@linkpa.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 15:51:06 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 14:03:41 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I buy my reed from Michael's, which is a craft store chain.  I do not have a 
mail order source; sorry!

To the lady who was disappointed over reed that cracked... you do have to 
wax the reed first, before inserting it.  This helps to strengthen it, make 
it more pliable, and preserves it.  You can really feel the difference after 
the reed is waxed; it feels pretty puny actually before the waxing.  And I 
usually have to replace a reed or two a year in my 18th c. fully boned 
corset.  I used the 1/2" flat reed, and it *is* usually the reed on one of 
the sides that breaks, near the waist.  I am smaller than most, and when 
making a corset for very strong/very mobile or larger women, always use the 
5/8" wide reed, and on the seams, either reinforce ALL my corsets with 
steels, or a combination of steels and the half-round reeds.

I store my corsets along with my other re-enacting garb in trunks either in 
my bedroom or another part of the house that stays pretty constant in 
temperature and humidity throughout the year.  It helps.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 16:04:04 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

A friend of mine is looking for a pattern for men's 20's-30's tuxedos. 
She has friends in a band that plays the music of these periods.  Does
anyone know of any patterns out there.  My husband has a 30's tux that
he inherited and fits him, so I know some of the design differences to
tell her.  Anyone done one of these with a bought pattern?
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 16:54:51 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:01:06 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Yes, detachable sleeves are appropriate for English Elizabethan
middle-class. They weren't neccessarily tied in with individual ties as
many reproductions are, they were often laced in with a strip of lacing
holes under the shoulder of the bodice and along the edge of the sleeve.
The early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of sleeve doesn't seem to be
laced in, they seem to have been sewn in, although the tighter lower
sleeves may have laced in seperately. 

Would it help to think of them as a separate piece of clothing, like a
hat or scarf? Changing one's sleeves was a good way to alter the look of
a gown without the trouble and expense of making a large and expensive
pieces. Are you confused by the different styles? How they were
constructed? What materials are appropriate? 

Oh yeah, and which RenFaire are you going to be doing?

Karen

On Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:51:40 -0400 "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
writes:
> 
> -Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
> 
> 	Hi, I've been lurking for a while and am very impressed by 
> how knowlegeable people are... Anyhow, I am making a elizabethan
upper-middle-class 
> costume for a ren. faire, and I wanted to know if tied-on sleeves were 
> appropriate for English fashion at that time? I am a little confused
about 
> sleeves in general, too.
> 		Thank you!
> 			Kristen
> 
> Kristen Gee
> kristen.gee@linkpa.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>




On Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:41:16   Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>           I cannot afford designer clothes, nor anything approaching such.

I know, last time I went looking for a dress in an actual department store I nearly passed out. We have a store here called Ross, which sells overstock and buyout (like bankrupcy sales) from other stores. They usually have very nice clothes (some in actual designer names but, I mean it's more the look and feel of the clothes I think that's important than what te tag says) , so I shop there alot. They will tend to have that "item" you see on TV and can't find elsewhere. I like to take the pieces I see and blend them as part of my own style. I'm no high fashion mavin, I lack the body and the time to deal with all the prep work involved in being vogue. LOL. I just like dressing unique and it seems mostly the people here wear jeans and ambercrombie and fitch or old navy and I'm sorry, but I'm not going to spend thirty dollars on a t shirt to advertise a chain store that doesn't need my help in the first place. lol. I find actually some of the pretiest things I own were fairly chea!
p and made by little "no name" comppanies. 

PS.
You have red hair? I bet it's beautiful! I always wanted red hair but instead my hair is dark chocolate brown... I envy you. :)

Ginn


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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I am 5 ft 3 so I wear the heels for height mostly, I also tend to go for more of a cube heel or a wedge so it's not hard to walk in them, I"m definately not a stilleto person to say the least! lol
---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 

>Having been a teenager in the 70's, I feel that I've already done my time,
>and I don't wear  high heels  except for very formal occasions.  
>
>Margo
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 17:55:33 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 19:08:52 -0400
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

I think that my confusion about sleeves is mostly style-based. I've heard of
'french sleeves' and  I've seen lots of different things in paintings of
that time period, but there never seems to be one 'standard sleeve'. Is that
because there were a lot of different styles? Or were sleeve styles 'trendy'
and change frequently? That's my issue of confusion.
	I am going to the Pennsylvania RenFaire in Mt. Hope, PA. I am making the
costume for a high school costume competition (I'm in high school)
			Kristen
------------------------------

-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Yes, detachable sleeves are appropriate for English Elizabethan
middle-class. They weren't neccessarily tied in with individual ties as
many reproductions are, they were often laced in with a strip of lacing
holes under the shoulder of the bodice and along the edge of the sleeve.
The early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of sleeve doesn't seem to be
laced in, they seem to have been sewn in, although the tighter lower
sleeves may have laced in seperately.

Would it help to think of them as a separate piece of clothing, like a
hat or scarf? Changing one's sleeves was a good way to alter the look of
a gown without the trouble and expense of making a large and expensive
pieces. Are you confused by the different styles? How they were
constructed? What materials are appropriate?

Oh yeah, and which RenFaire are you going to be doing?

Karen


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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 19:49:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 12:26 AM
> -Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
>
> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>

What a fun thread!
I guess you might say that I employ a sort of historical flair in my
everyday dress.  My favourite time in fashion history is the Edwardian era,
followed closely by the Regency period.  I love the empire waistlines common
to both, they're so flattering, especially to a mom of 4 with a little
"kangaroo pouch" left over from the pregnancies.   ;-)   You can nearly
always find me running about in a dress with a raised waistline and an
ankle-length skirt.  I'm actually much more comfortable dressed this way
than when wearing jeans or any sort of pants.  Since I'm 5' 1" my dresses
often brush the floor a bit which is just fine with me.  (I'm sure my
neighbours are beginning to question whether or not I actually have feet!
lol.)
I do tend to stay basic in my colour choice though, I'm a redhead too so my
wardrobe is mostly taupe, cream, hunter and black.
I cried when J. Peterman went out of business! I often matched wearable
vintage separates with Peterman "retros".  I'm getting the definite
impression that J. Peterman isn't going to be what it used to be under the
direction of Paul Harris.
As for footwear, I've a few pairs of 1900's shoes that I wear (they're so
beautifully made they'll probably hold up for another hundred years!) some
modern-day copies and several pairs of ballet slippers.  And when I go
formal I love wearing either authentic vintage gowns or recreations.  It's a
great way to get conversations going at parties as the dresses never fail to
attract some admirers.

Enjoying all the posts,
Kerrie, who was born to the wrong era.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 18:39:54 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:51 PM 09/11/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
>
>	Hi, I've been lurking for a while and am very impressed by how knowlegeable
>people are... Anyhow, I am making a elizabethan upper-middle-class costume
>for a ren. faire, and I wanted to know if tied-on sleeves were appropriate
>for English fashion at that time?

Yes, absolutely, of course!  Tie-on sleeves are very period.  

You say you're confused about sleeves in general, could you be a bit more
specific?

Margo Anderson


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 18:42:57 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>The early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of sleeve 

I've never heard this term.  What is a mahoitered sleeve?

margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 19:25:05 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ace71c88.250c1124@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 20:34:56 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

If Mela was taller or if I was shorter, we could be sisters, straight, long,
red hair.

I dress on the artsy side, never a black jacket for me!  I dress differently
for every occassion, at home, I am very casual, t-shirts and shorts.  I like
to keep people guessing as to what kind of work, I really do, by changing my
appearance.  I can dress like a ballet dancer, hippie, wearable art,
vintage, soft/fluffy, or very artsy and colorful,  but never boring.  I like
to name my outfits after "the look" they project.   I shop frequently at the
thrift stores and put together pieces that people would not normally put
together.  I never pay retail, except for shoes and undergarments, and then
I go to the discount houses.  I have a pet peeve about paying the retailers'
LARGE markup.

As for colors... well, you all know I LOVE color, so I wear every color but
green and orange.  I can wear either soft or loud colors.

For accessories, I have gone through phases in "my looks".  For a couple of
years I was into jewelry and bangles, now I rarely wear jewelry.  When I do,
it is usually vintage. For a while, I was into lots of shoes, now I'm into
hats with long scarves tied onto them.  Heck, I even have a veil from
Egyptian that I never wear the same way twice.  The veil is really neat with
all these bangleily coins and people trying to figure out where the jingling
is coming from.

For those who got the last CSA newletter or the last national symposium, you
know what I dress like. <g>

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999, KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:

> 
> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
> 
Hmmmm...let me put it this way...someone once told me I dressed more like
an arts student than a science student. I don't buy new clothes often
because I tend to look at stuff and think - I could make that for much 
cheaper. Of course I rarely do, although some of my stash is set aside
for making 'mundane' clothes. Most of my new clothes come from the
Community Aid Abroad shop. I tend to wear things until they are falling
apart (and then my husband throws them out else I'd keep wearing them *grin*)
I wear skirts a lot - either very long or very short. As far as shoes
go I wear boots with 2" heels or flat sandals or none at all, though I
do have a couple of pairs of dress shoes that don't see light of day much.
Recently I've been making Edwardian style outfits for special occasions
(weddings etc), and as anyone will tell you I'd much rather be wearing
garb. You'll know the day I really stop caring what other people think
because then I'll just be wearing it all the time. :-)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 19:32:38 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:44:27 -0700
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Subject: H-COST: Historical Dress-making/Tailoring Terms
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

     It was Kristin's post re: Elizabethan sleeves and the responses to it
that brought on this from Me:  Is there a really good on-line source for
these?  I've been seeing so many mentions of terms I don't understand.  It
would be fabulous to have such a resource bookmarked!  But if not, is there
a resource book that you'd recommend for those and other historical
costuming terminology that one may require to look up in order to
understand what the discussion is about?  Thank you for your
suggestions--Carol 
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 8:34 PM
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> If Mela was taller or if I was shorter, we could be sisters, straight,
long,
> red hair.
>
Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the movie
Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have mentioned
having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle pigmentation
and a passion for historical costume. <g>

Kerrie

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:51:16 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> Make your lace really, really long.  Loosely lace the corset while not
> wearing it, slide it on over your head and then start pulling on the
> laces until you have it as tight as you wish.  This does leave a lot of
> extra lace when you have it done up so I tie big loopy bows and tuck
> inside as needed.

I also do this, although it depends on *which* corset I'm wearing as to how
long i make the ties.  My Italian Ren corset actually has pretty short
laces on it because I can get it over my head even on a short leash.  Can't
do that with the Victorian, though.  You can also tie long laces around
your waist if they're long enough.

Carolyn

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:53:05 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 9/11/99 1:13:52 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> dragonlair@wireweb.net writes:
>
> << any suggestions on how to lace it by
>  > yourself? >>
> There is also a hooking busk which hooks down the front available at corset
> supply houses.  Cheryl

The problem I have with the hooking busk in the front is that I have to loosen
the laces in the back to actually hook it.  I can't hook them if it's
completely tied in back.  So I leave the laces tied but at their maximum length
so I can separate the back and get the hooks fastened.

Carolyn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 19:59:17 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "h-needlework" <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.org>, "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>,
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Subject: H-COST: Call for Papers and Study Tour 
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:06:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I am sorry about the mass posting, but I wanted all of you to know...

The Costume Society of America's National Symposium, "Fashions Lost and
Found, or Survival of the Fittest"
 will be in Williamsburg and Richmond, Virginia, May 31-June 3, 2000,
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/natsym.htm .  The symposium will
include Colonial Williamsburg, behind-the-scenes at the Valentine Museum,
and the Maymont House (aka Dooley Mansion). Currently, there is a Call for
Papers for this symposium with a deadline of Oct. 15, 1999. These papers can
cover any part of our industry, from historic to wearable art fashions. I
have added to the website, an agenda webpage on the pre and post symposium
study tours.  The pre-symposium tour will include Monticello (home of Thomas
Jefferson), Sherwood Forest (home of John Tyler).  The post syposium tour
will include, Yorktown, Jamestown, Kenmore Plantation, Stratford Hall
(Robert E. Lee's family home), and Gunston Hall.

A symposium schedule of events and registration information will be posted
to the website in January or February, 2000.  So please bookmark this
webpage.

Penny Ladnier
Webmaster, Costume Society of America
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:01:54 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Forgive me if this has been asked before, I'm fairly new to this list. How is wool
fabric fulled?

jb

<<<I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
- -- properly felt was made from unspun wool. >>>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:03:33 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I lace into a Victorian corset by myself this way:  First, I use 1/4" satin
ribbon for lacing.  It slide easily, and is very, very, strong.  I use a
lace about 3' longer than the laced portion, laced so that there are loops
at the waist on each side.  I put it on over my head and hook the loops over
the handle of my patio door, then slowly walk away, and the lace pulls tight
as I walk.  Reach behind, unhook the loops, and tie them in a large bow and
tuck the hanging bits inside the lacing.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:05:21 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ace71c88.250c1124@aol.com> <008b01befcb6$c408a1a0$3b56accf@e4c2n6> <000901befcb9$4f5b85e0$a353ccd1@ouppc>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the movie
> Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have mentioned
> having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle pigmentation
> and a passion for historical costume. <g>

My red hair comes from a bottle, but I can claim my gray hairs came from
taking too many historic costume classes and five hour exams!!!! LOL.
Maybe, Mela's red hair came from teaching historic costume.  No... Mela was
not my professor, just a wonderful person I met on this list.

Really, I have always wanted long red hair since second grade.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:12:38 1999
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <A893D93701AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:25:10 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

I worked through de-lurking day so I guess I'll de-lurk now. One (one of a
long list) of the reasons I sew is because I usually can't stand about 95%
of whatever the current fashions of the day are. A fair portion of my
wardrobe is very basic - at first glance. At second glance anyone who cares
to see it will realize all of my skirts are to my ankles. My mother swears
I'm a flower child except that most of the fabrics and styles are more
Victorian. I also tend to incorporate historic details - puffed sleeves,
ribbon embroidery, high collars, contrast inserts - to simulate slashing, or
anything else I can think up (and find the time to make). I also have a
"thing" for mixing old and new. Several years ago I made a georgette dress
from a Donna Karan pattern - the dress is unlined I and wear a unitard under
it - funky and modern except that the fabric is a pretty kind of Victorian
floral print.  "Granny" boots became a signature item way back in high
school - they were perfect with the Gunny Sack dresses I was knocking off as
every day clothes.
But then my taste in clothing is not the only part of my personality which
appears normal - at first glance...

Beth - who needs to get back to stitching many little ribbon flowers onto a
vest.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:16:32 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:31:55 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>My red hair comes from a bottle, but I can claim my gray hairs came from
>taking too many historic costume classes and five hour exams!!!! LOL.


I've got red-hair-from-a-bottle, too, although my natural hair color is a
rich brown which used to get red highlights in the summer.  Now it's just a
nice deep auburny color, and those pesky grey hairs stay hidden, too!  (I've
really only been noticing those for about a year--coincidentally, I finished
my PhD during that year :-)

Susan




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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:37:58 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>
>I worked through de-lurking day so I guess I'll de-lurk now. One (one of a
>long list) of the reasons I sew is because I usually can't stand about 95%
>of whatever the current fashions of the day are.

That sounds like me.  I like jewel tone colors and black during the whole
season, not just in the winter, and I tend to like specific styles which
aren't always available--things like mandarin colors and oriental-style
fastenings, longer skirts, etc.  And I love unusual fabrics (well, unusual
to find off the rack in stores) like brocades and silks.  I have a deep
electric purple dupionni silk shirt/jacket I made about four years ago that
gets me raves every time I wear it to work (I've got to find that pattern
again!).

Although most of my wardrobe is fairly conservative office wear, I often
wear historic jewelery to accessorize it.

Susan


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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:15:37 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>

Weird, I also have red hair.  Could be we are just more proud of it so we
include it in a description?

Vince Lyons wrote:

> -Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 8:34 PM
> > -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> >
> > If Mela was taller or if I was shorter, we could be sisters, straight,
> long,
> > red hair.
> >
> Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the movie
> Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have mentioned
> having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle pigmentation
> and a passion for historical costume. <g>
>
> Kerrie
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 21:20:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:33:42 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:
>
> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your
> everyday life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

I wear primarily jeans or shorts & shirts...we have a Goodwill warehouse
in town where they take all the clothes that don't sell so I go and buy
linen, cotton & silk items for $1.27 a pound...amazing how much silk it
takes for a pound! <grin>  I also use this resource for some costuming
(bought a bunch of stuff there over the summer for this fall's
production of 'Inherit the Wind').  For dressy I tend to wear more
modern versions of a cotehardie or short skirts & tights & the silk or
linen shirts.  When I go to the plays I wear the same shirts with cotton
or linen pants (have to be more conservative because it's a high school!
<grin>).  I have very, very, very bad knees (one reason I'm a stay at
home mom) and *always* wear flats...unfortunately my feet have shrunk
back after having my son and my last two pair of thigh high suede boots
don't fit anymore <pout> (not that it bothered my dh who tried them on
and discovered with a wee bit of stretching at the little toe they would
fit *him*!).  So it's time to hit Nolensville Road again once I have
some more money (a stretch in Nashville that includes 7 thrift or
consignment stores and one of the Hancock Fabrics!) <grin>.  I didn't
pay more than $25 for any of my boots and don't plan to pay more for
'new' ones!  I've been known to wear garb out and about as well as
around the house.

Kat
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> 
> I've got red-hair-from-a-bottle, too, although my natural hair color
> is a rich brown which used to get red highlights in the summer.  Now
> it's just a nice deep auburny color, and those pesky grey hairs stay
> hidden, too!  (I've really only been noticing those for about a
> year--coincidentally, I finished my PhD during that year :-)

My gray hair comes from children <grin> (I left grad school because my
biological clock went atomic).  My natural color is a light auburn and I
color it to make it more like the red it was when I was young.  I had
bright red hair and blue eyes until I was three when my eyes turned
green and my hair a deeper red...then when we moved to Nashville when I
was 9 my eyes turned brown and my hair went auburn.

Kat
wondering if we can get a large enough population to 'prove' the
redhead/costumer theory! <wink>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 21:28:54 1999
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:36:59 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


------ =_NextPart_000_01BEFC9E.4CA88F20
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Kerrie --

add me to the list of redheads.. and until now I've never met a redhead =
with such a similar name!

Maybe it's the fair skin that directs our interest in times when such =
was really a fashion asset (as opposed to the more recent era of  tanned =
skin)


Carrie

-----Original Message-----
From:	Vince Lyons [SMTP:vjlyons@snip.net]
Sent:	Saturday, September 11, 1999 7:54 PM
To:	h-costume@indra.com
Subject:	Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes


-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 8:34 PM
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> If Mela was taller or if I was shorter, we could be sisters, straight,
long,
> red hair.
>
Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the movie
Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have mentioned
having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle =
pigmentation
and a passion for historical costume. <g>

Kerrie

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/1999 7:39:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kdyer@home.com 
writes:

<< My natural color is a light auburn and I
 color it to make it more like the red it was when I was young.  I had
 bright red hair and blue eyes until I was three when my eyes turned
 green and my hair a deeper red...then when we moved to Nashville when I
 was 9 my eyes turned brown and my hair went auburn. >>
I can't believe it! Another person whose eyes turned from blue to green. Mine 
turned about my 21st birthday and have been green ever since. My natural 
color was also a light auburn, but after too many summers of my hair turning 
"Lucy" red, I went to coloring my hair. My husband says that it has been so 
many years since I have seen my natural color that who knows what color it is 
now! Oh, Penny, one week after I saw you last, I spiral permed all that long 
hair of mine and it's still that way. No more straight hair. My mother says I 
refuse to grow up! Miss Mela
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 23:57:41 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I was born a redhead but but the time I was 19 it was med. to dk. brown
with copper highlights.  Given enough sun, it was brown at the roots,
red in the middle and strawberry on the ends.  When I entered cronehood,
I decided to cover the gray by going back to red.  For theatre reasons,
I was Strawberry blonde till now.  For Fall I'll be light Auburn. I tend
to grow my hair to waist length then chop off a foot or more of it.  
I can't stand much in the way of prints, either on or around me so tend
to depend on solid colors.  Half my wardrobe got put away when I went
red, so I'm adding deep browns and greens.  I'm basically conservative
in Nature.  I'm one of the few around here who dresses up or wears hat
and gloves to events.  Goes back to being brought up in the Fifties here
in New England.  
When I ran workshops in winter, I would always wear black wool trousers,
a black or white turtleneck and a deep color plaid wool big shirt.  Of
course, I'd add "buttons" with amusing costumer sayings to lighten
things up.  In the summer I'm fond of sundresses and shorts.   I have
too many tee shirts with show logos on them.  I can wear short skirts,
but find I'll reach for a long one instead.  When I go shopping, the
only clothes I can wear off the rack tend to be the most expensive
ones!  I'm tall, sort of thin (for my age), narrow backed with a widened
ribcage because of my singing.
I've acquired hordes of jewelry over the years, most of which gets
loaned out for stage use.  I find that I tend to wear only the smaller,
better pieces now-a-days.  Oh yes, my husband likes to surprise me every
so often by going to the Original Filene's Basement and coming home with
several gorgeous evening gowns, so I have more than I'll ever use, not
to mention the ones I've grown out of.  I think I have at least 6
tiaras, but I don't just use them for me.  My favorite outfits are the
ones I pick up at Renn faires, costume conventions and Costume College. 
I like the unusual just like the rest of us, and often wear them as hall
costumes at several of the conventions I go to each year.  Life would be
too boring without "Costumes"!
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston, MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 22:47:00 1999
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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Silk question
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 23:00:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>

Is silkessence (blouse weight) anything close to period? It's going on sale
near me next weekend for under 2 bucks a yard, and if it's passable I'd like
to make my new chemise out of it. Also, any hints on sewing it?

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 22:54:29 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

Can someone help me untangle this one? On a list of English trading goods 
sent to the Hudson's Bay Company's Cumberland House post in 1777 (Rich 
1:362-363), I found the following items of clothing: 
"Shirts white strapt/Shirts check strapt"
For the same post in 1778, there are "Shirts cotton striped/Shirts white 
Strapt/Shirts check Plain" 
In both lists, the "white strapt" shirts are the most common. I haven't a 
clue what they are, though. I've seen shirts and other items of clothing on 
many inventory lists for the 1774-1821 period and most of them make sense, 
but this has me stumped. The editor of another journal of an HBC post c. 
1790 interpreted "Shirts SS" as "shoulder strap" shirts, which I'd never 
heard of. (I figured it probably meant swanskin shirts--which I'd seen 
elsewhere--until now.) 
Any suggestions are welcome.

Your obliged and obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred

    
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 22:54:55 1999
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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:07:34 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

I have so little time to sew for myself that I dress more boringly than I'd
like.  It's also too hot here in Arizona much of the year to wear the
wearable art leather jackets I've made for myself.  But I prefer to
overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed as does my DH.  He's
agreed to wear his new leather doublets with jeans for everyday wear and
bemoans how boring the men's section of clothing stores is.  I bought a
pattern for a ruffled man's shirt at the sale, and I've promised to make him
a couple of each of the three styles, and this is also for daily wear.  I
got some patterns for some Goth-type dresses for myself to have fun with.
I'm still looking for the Zoot suit and Shakespeare in Love patterns; they
aren't out yet here!  We'll wear anything and everything that we like.
We're also looking forward to moving to Los Angeles later this year, because
we'll be able to wear our favorite things more!

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 22:56:15 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk question
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 00:11:47 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings--

>Is silkessence (blouse weight) anything close to period? It's going on sale
>near me next weekend for under 2 bucks a yard, and if it's passable I'd
like
>to make my new chemise out of it. Also, any hints on sewing it?


While I've found silkessence doesn't do too bad a job of looking like silk,
the real thing I'd worry about when making a chemise out of it would be what
kind of weather you'd be wearing it in.  It doesn't breathe much, and if
it's going to be directly next to your skin, particularly if you're wearing
one of the more fitted styles, you may find it similar to wearing a plastic
bag.  However, if it's for something looser, and you're not going to be
wearing it in hot weather, you could certainly do worse...

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:00:52 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/1999 9:09:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
smadsen@primenet.com writes:

<< We're also looking forward to moving to Los Angeles later this year, 
because
 we'll be able to wear our favorite things more!
 
 Kels >>


Let us know when and exactly where you move. Then we can point out all the 
good shopping places! Mela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:13:17 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 00:26:22 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

Thank you for the tip about waxing the reed for the stays, that's something 
that I didn't think of. 

The stays that I had with the reed was good for a few years, but then the 
cracking of the reed got to be too much of a problem trying to continually 
replace. I have since made my stays completely from the spring steel, which, 
because of my chest-heavy figure is really the strength that I probably 
needed in the first place. I also found that I was more comfortable making 
both a front and back lacing pattern. I have a tendency to shift weight a 
lot. So having the possibility of adjusting both front and back together is 
really helpful. I adjust the back so that the front will always come 
completely together when laced. Then I leave the back lacing in place, and at 
events always use the front for putting the stays on and off. This is so much 
easier for dressing in the mornings. 

Thanks for your suggestions,
Susan K. 
42nd HRH & 17th Light Dragoons
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:20:29 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 00:33:17 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk question
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

I believe that silkessence is really polyester, and not real silk at all. I 
don't know how period correct that you like to be. But if you are doing 18th 
century for example, silk would not be something used for chemises, except 
for a very wealthy women. And it would never pass inspections for camp life. 
But since I am not familiar with what you are portraying, and the amount of 
authenticity that you are portraying, that would be your decision. Hope this 
is helpful,
Susan K.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:24:11 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:35:52 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
In-Reply-To: <e620a2c8.250c827a@aol.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:13 AM 09/12/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>Let us know when and exactly where you move. Then we can point out all the 
>good shopping places! Mela
           I'm beginning to feel very left out, between those of you able
to shop the LA and NY fabric/clothing dists.  {VERY BIG Wistful sigh}  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:35:35 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

I am starting on a 17th or 16th (haven't found the right wool yet) 1895 
Lancer's Full Levee Dress uniform for my husband but am having trouble 
locating the correct hat. I have pictures but do not know who sells them. Any 
help list? Miss Mela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 03:08:12 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Stencilling vs. Block Printing
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    Does anyone know when each technique became available to/used in the
attire of the nobility in Europe and the Middle East?  Thank you.  Carol 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 04:18:49 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
Organization: Home For Deranged Bunnies
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 05:29:57 +0000
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>


> << Back stitching is a must for the corset. >>
> If you look inside most hand sewn period clothing, you will find
> either that the entire garment has been made with a small, regular
> backstitch, or with a running backstitch. (3 or 4 running stitches
> followed by a backstitch).  The seam allowances are also most often
> overcast to prevent fraying.  Hope this helps.  Cheryl Odom

That's how I do my hand sewing. I prefer it to machine sewing. I 
just seem to have a lead foot with the machine. It sounds silly but I 
don't have the patience for the machine but I do for working with my 
hands. It's more relaxing for me.

Kassandra NickKraken
JUST CALL ME MISTRESS BUNNY
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From: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomad@opalsun.com>
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-Poster: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomad@opalsun.com>


Around here we call them organic fabric weights.  And if I get the right
combination of cats, it is actually quite effective (unless I am cutting
velvet...)

Speaking of velvet, has anyone used the Simplicity Celtic pattern?  I am
thinking of getting it for Scottish County Dance.

Margo Glenn-Lewis
(No, I'm a different Margo.)

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes/RED HAIR
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-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>

Auburn/reddish here.  Not as red as it was when I swam every day outside as
a kid, but still reddish.  (a tiny bit chemically enhanced with some
highlights.  :-)  )

Megan

Kat & Kent wrote:

> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
> Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> >
> > I've got red-hair-from-a-bottle, too, although my natural hair color
> > is a rich brown which used to get red highlights in the summer.  Now
> > it's just a nice deep auburny color, and those pesky grey hairs stay
> > hidden, too!  (I've really only been noticing those for about a
> > year--coincidentally, I finished my PhD during that year :-)
>
> My gray hair comes from children <grin> (I left grad school because my
> biological clock went atomic).  My natural color is a light auburn and I
> color it to make it more like the red it was when I was young.  I had
> bright red hair and blue eyes until I was three when my eyes turned
> green and my hair a deeper red...then when we moved to Nashville when I
> was 9 my eyes turned brown and my hair went auburn.
>
> Kat
> wondering if we can get a large enough population to 'prove' the
> redhead/costumer theory! <wink>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 10:15:47 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <historic-costuming@onelist.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Any help ,UK
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 16:27:19 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_152E_01BEFD3B.AF475CE0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Dear List , can anyone help . I have finally convinced my friend that =
she should take a little bit more trouble with costume for some event =
she visits to ehibit her basketmaking. She has thrown thi sback in my =
lap.
In time for the Robin Hood festival at the end of October I have to come =
up with a suitable outfit for this and for other "generally mediaeval " =
events; this is not re-enacting. Size 12 maroon (ish)
I dont have time or space (or inclination ) to start getting all of the =
costumemaking gear together ;
So I am looking for somebody who can supply this in time; If pos in easy =
travelling distance ; She in Castle Donington Mr in Birmingham.- to =
collect etc
Any  suggestions ? please/
Dave



+++++++++++++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy=20
Editor.Heritage Matters

------=_NextPart_000_152E_01BEFD3B.AF475CE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dear List , can anyone help . I have =
finally=20
convinced my friend that she should take a little bit more trouble with =
costume=20
for some event she visits to ehibit her basketmaking. She has thrown thi =
sback=20
in my lap.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In time for the Robin Hood festival at =
the end of=20
October I have to come up with a suitable outfit for this and for other=20
"generally mediaeval " events; this is not re-enacting. Size 12 maroon=20
(ish)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I dont have time or space (or =
inclination ) to=20
start getting all of the costumemaking gear together ;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>So I am looking for somebody who can =
supply this in=20
time; If pos in easy travelling distance ; She in Castle Donington Mr in =

Birmingham.- to collect etc</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any&nbsp; suggestions ? =
please/</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>+++++++++++++++++++++++++</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>L.D.Mundy <BR>Editor.Heritage=20
Matters</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_152E_01BEFD3B.AF475CE0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 10:29:52 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I'm working on the theory that the "pinked" type of ornamental slashing, 
> even when quite extensive, doesn't have a visible means to stop fraying.
> Previously on the list, someone mentioned gum arabic or other mixtures 
> may have been painted on the back of the fabric.  (?)

Janet Arnold (in a lecture) told us that gum arabic was used on some 
of the slashings, but it wasn't universal. I could see no evidence of 
it in the slashed textiles I examined at the V&A. Also, I have 
several garments of my own on which I have tried ornamental slashing 
and pinking. I've not found it necessary to use anything on them. In 
fact, you need to deliberately pick at the fabric to loosen it enough 
so that the slashings show up enough.

In one of the exhibits in the Costume area of the V&A I did see a 
garment with slashings which looked as if it did have something at 
the edge. (Of course, I couldn't get close enough to see it from the 
back side. It was in a large glassed in display with several dressed 
mannikins.) The slashings on it were longer than others I did get to 
see closer up. In Janet Arnold's PoF 1560-1620 there is a very 
similar one which also appears to have something at the very edge.

It appears to me that there are both treated and untreated 
slashing/pinkings, perhaps depending on the length of the slash, 
fabric used or angle (bias vs straight of grain) of the slash.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Stenciling vs. Block Printing
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 11:57:54 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Can't answer the question directly, but the Datini papers
show that painting on fabric was common for clothing and
wall hangings in latter 14th Century Italy. Gold painted on
velvet and many colors on linen, at the very least, are
mentioned.

Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Carol J. Bell Cannon
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 1999 3:24 AM
> To: Recipient list suppressed
> Subject: H-COST: Stencilling vs. Block Printing
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>     Does anyone know when each technique became available
> to/used in the
> attire of the nobility in Europe and the Middle East?
Thank
> you.  Carol
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 99 16:03:22 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com



> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> Pinking Tools?
> 
> Where?
> 
> I'd love to find some of these.

    Mary Denise Smith often sells them - her husband makes them in different 
sizes and styles. She the editor of _Costume & Drsssmaker Magazine_.
    -Judy Mitchell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 11:02:38 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 09:17:28 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

In the research I did on shirts for *The Shirt Book* I did not run across
any references of that type.
Unless you find someone with a better answer I would suggest that you look
at a very simple answer - *strapt* is after all a form of *strapped* and it
might well mean that they were *strapped together in a bundle*.  You might
go back to your text and see if that does not fit.
Should you find another answer, I - for one - would be VERY interested in
it.
Thanks
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
>Date: Sat, Sep 11, 1999, 9:07 PM
>

>
>-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
>
>Can someone help me untangle this one? On a list of English trading goods 
>sent to the Hudson's Bay Company's Cumberland House post in 1777 (Rich 
>1:362-363), I found the following items of clothing: 
>"Shirts white strapt/Shirts check strapt"
>For the same post in 1778, there are "Shirts cotton striped/Shirts white 
>Strapt/Shirts check Plain" 
>In both lists, the "white strapt" shirts are the most common. I haven't a 
>clue what they are, though. I've seen shirts and other items of clothing on

>many inventory lists for the 1774-1821 period and most of them make sense, 
>but this has me stumped. The editor of another journal of an HBC post c. 
>1790 interpreted "Shirts SS" as "shoulder strap" shirts, which I'd never 
>heard of. (I figured it probably meant swanskin shirts--which I'd seen 
>elsewhere--until now.) 
>Any suggestions are welcome.
>
>Your obliged and obedient servant,
>Angela Gottfred
>
>    
>agottfre@telusplanet.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 11:07:57 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778 p.s.
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Another thought is that since these are Canadian in destination I would
suggest that you ask Gail Cariou at Parks Canada if she can shed any light
on the subject.... this is one of her major areas of expertise.
Gail_Cariou@pch.gc.ca
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
>Date: Sat, Sep 11, 1999, 9:07 PM
>

>
>-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
>
>Can someone help me untangle this one? On a list of English trading goods 
>sent to the Hudson's Bay Company's Cumberland House post in 1777 (Rich 
>1:362-363), I found the following items of clothing: 
>"Shirts white strapt/Shirts check strapt"
>For the same post in 1778, there are "Shirts cotton striped/Shirts white 
>Strapt/Shirts check Plain" 
>In both lists, the "white strapt" shirts are the most common. I haven't a 
>clue what they are, though. I've seen shirts and other items of clothing on

>many inventory lists for the 1774-1821 period and most of them make sense, 
>but this has me stumped. The editor of another journal of an HBC post c. 
>1790 interpreted "Shirts SS" as "shoulder strap" shirts, which I'd never 
>heard of. (I figured it probably meant swanskin shirts--which I'd seen 
>elsewhere--until now.) 
>Any suggestions are welcome.
>
>Your obliged and obedient servant,
>Angela Gottfred
>
>    
>agottfre@telusplanet.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 12:14:25 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com (h-costume)
Subject: H-COST: reed supply
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 99 17:28:35 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com

For anyone who is looking for basket reed to try in corsets (or anything else), 
and lives in an unfortunate area like mine where Michael's doesn't carry reed 
(neither do Joannes, Craft Plus or Total Crafts), you might want to check out 
Gratiot Lake Basketry. I've gotten supplies and basket books from them, they 
are very nice and fairly quick - maybe a couple weeks. It's roughly $7 or less 
for a 1pound coil
    Their url is http://www.weavenet.com/gratiot.html and can also be reached 
at Gratiot Lake Basketry  Star Route 1, Box 16   Mohawk, MI 49950 (906)337-5116 
as well as glbasketry@worldnet.att.net.
    They sell round, half-round, and flat and flat-oval reed (as well as lots 
of other basket stuff!) in all different sizes.

    -Judy Mitchell

no connection, just a happy basket case.. uh, customer.

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Subject: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



"Kels" mentioned looking for the Simplicity zoot suit pattern; I've gone to 
check it out and don't think much of it. The jacket isn't right, except that 
it's long, and it might look okay for a stage costume but I don't think it 
would pass muster for real wear. A man's jacket really has to be tailored, I 
guess. The pants looked okay but not great -- better than anything else, 
though. 

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 12:49:58 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:47:11 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
In-Reply-To: <A893D93701AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

I definitely wear boring clothes in modern life.  I recently discovered
that almost all my skirts for work are either from charity shops or home
made.  There are a few reasons for this - 
- I rarely find anything "fashionable" that I like on me, so I tend to
stick to "classic", 
- my body doesn't fit the shape of a lot of shop-bought skirts and
trousers, and while I often think I would like to make myself something
new, I have too many half-finished period things on my list to start
anything modern,
- I spend all my money on period stuff and going to events.  Everyday
clothes just aren't a priority for my budget.

And - like you I think - whenever I walk into a shop, the thing that
really catches my eye is the most expensive thing there!  I have a taste
for quality!

Jean




In message <A893D93701AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>, KATHARINE WHISLER
<KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu> writes
>
>-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
>
>Here's a question for you all:  A few weeks back when my boyfriend
>accompanied me to my favorite clothing store, Brooks Brothers, he
>remarked that he found it strange that someone as interested in the
>history of fashion as I am would always wear rather boring clothes.
>Thinking about it, he's right, I do tend to choose very basic clothes that
>I can wear for years-- but this is because I'd rather buy something of
>better quality that will last a while than some cheap fashionable thing
>that is poorly made and will wear out in short order.  I suppose the
>fashionable clothes that would interest me are just plain too expensive
>(in time or money).  I did see a lovely Chanel jacket the other day and
>it wasn't boring at all.  Of course, it was also nearly $2000.
>
>So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>
>--Katharine Whisler
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 11:04:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Hi!

I have the same problem.  When I sew by machine, I tend to go really really
fast and then have to spend time using my seam ripper...I've been doing alot
more sewing by hand and actually *love* it!  Less time with the seam ripper,
since I actually take the time to check and see what I'm sewing. I didn't
think I would like this hand sewing, so at first I was very hesitant to try.
The best part of hand sewing is getting to sew and be with my family at the
same time.  And while sewing by hand is obviously going to take longer, it
means getting to spend *more* time with them.  My family *loves this*, I've
actually got to snuggle more with my 4 yr old and had some great discussions
with my 15 yr old.

Another thing I've discovered, the hand of the material and whether the seam
is 'load bearing' should influence your choice of stitch.  For example,
working with velvet and silks recently, I've learned to always baste the
materials and that using a 'stab' backstitch on velvet is effective in
controlling the 'shifting' that velvet tends to do. Doing a very small
running stitch produces a nice seam on silk (a slippery devil) and since
you're not handling the material much, controls the slipage on those kinds
of materials.  But, if either fabric is on a 'load bearing' (borrowing from
a housing construction term) seam, always use a back stitch; 'stabbing' for
velvets.

Anyway, just my observations on handsewing two kinds of luxery fabrics; I'm
sure others will have more to add to this..

Gia

>That's how I do my hand sewing. I prefer it to machine sewing. I
>just seem to have a lead foot with the machine. It sounds silly but I
>don't have the patience for the machine but I do for working with my
>hands. It's more relaxing for me.
>
>Kassandra NickKraken
>JUST CALL ME MISTRESS BUNNY


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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ace71c88.250c1124@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:39:29 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

> In a message dated 9/11/1999 12:37:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> MzScahlett@aol.com writes:
>
> << So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>   life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>   fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic? > >>
>
I'm a hairdresser and tend to look like one.  I make all my own clothes and
they tend to be all black and mostly suits.  My casual wear is mostly black,
but in whatever trendy style is current.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 13:39:03 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:51:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/12/99 11:46:32 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< 
 "Kels" mentioned looking for the Simplicity zoot suit pattern; I've gone to 
 check it out and don't think much of it. The jacket isn't right, except that 
 it's long, and it might look okay for a stage costume but I don't think it 
 would pass muster for real wear. A man's jacket really has to be tailored, I 
 guess. The pants looked okay but not great -- better than anything else, 
 though. 
 
 Gail Finke
  ______ >>

I was the assistant designer of "Zoot Suit"  when it premiered at the Mark 
Taper Forum in Los Angeles.  All of the suits were constructed in the shop by 
professional tailors.  I haven't seen the pattern but I can tell you that the 
waists have to be cut high to the middle of the rib cage at least with front 
pleats, very full through the legs and then quickly pegged at the bottom, 
then cuffed.  The coat is very broad through the shoulders (big tailoring 
shoulder pads or even two) and the hem of the coat is fingertip length.  The 
lapels are wide.  There has to be pad stitching, canvas, roll tape, the 
works, and you need to make your own canvas fronts due to the length.  I 
imaging you can alter the Simplicity pattern to do all of these things if you 
know how to tailor.  Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 14:11:24 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fulling
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:33:16 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>


There is a lengthy discussion of fulling here:
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/rialto/felting-msg.html.  It was
a process applied to wool as it came off the loom to compact
the weave by shrinking, make it both more sturdy and more
supple.  It also resulted in a fabric which raveled less, so
it was done long and hard on a garment to be punched,
pinked, or dagged.  Taken to its extreme, the process can
produce felt.  Felting is a similar process, usually
involving loose unwoven wool.   In 1108 there was already a
fulling mill on the banks of the River Bisenzio in Italy at
Prato, perhaps due to the natural occurrance of a geat
quantity of "fullers earth" nearby.  Fullers earth is a dark
slimy soil used in the process and also used up to the
present cenury for cleaning wool.

Hope H. Dunlap



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 14:19:56 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:31:59 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume UK
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Cc: "." <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Dear List , can anyone help . I have finally convinced my friend that =
she should take a little bit more trouble with costume for some event =
she visits to ehibit her basketmaking. She has thrown thi sback in my =
lap.
In time for the Robin Hood festival at the end of October I have to come =
up with a suitable outfit for this and for other "generally mediaeval " =
events; this is not re-enacting. Size 12 maroon (ish)
I dont have time or space (or inclination ) to start getting all of the =
costumemaking gear together ;
So I am looking for somebody who can supply this in time; If pos in easy =
travelling distance ; She in Castle Donington Mr in Birmingham.- to =
collect etc
Any  suggestions ? please/

Is it Maggie then ???

If so I'll do a simple T tunic for here if she wants to swap reeds , rushes
& so on, I'm only a few miles away too

Mel
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Castle Donington / Birmingham costume request
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:36:47 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Hi
Sorry I deleted the message before saving it - duh!
Anyway, if you're still looking for someone to make stuff in time for Robin
Hood at end of October, contact me & we'll discuss.
I live in Stratford
Emma
black.smith@virgin.net


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 14:53:58 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 11:55:51 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



The images I got when I read this made me giggle.  Don't we yell at out kids
for hanging on the doorknobs?  ;)
  Michelle

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
   I put it on over my head and hook the loops over
>the handle of my patio door, then slowly walk away, and the lace pulls
tight
>as I walk.  Reach behind, unhook the loops, and tie them in a large bow and
>tuck the hanging bits inside the lacing.
>
>Margo
>



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 14:54:01 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 11:41:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



   It might be easier to put it on with the laces in front, rather than
trying to get yourself into it after it is laced. That would be like
climbing through a coat hanger.  You have to have long laces for this method
to.  Put it on backwards, lace it up bottom to top and turn it around
yourself to the back. Pull the laces from above your head.
  I think this is an instance where you have to experiment until you find
what works for you.
  Michelle
>Make your lace really, really long.  Loosely lace the corset while not
>wearing it, slide it on over your head and then start pulling on the
>laces until you have it as tight as you wish.  This does leave a lot of
>extra lace when you have it done up so I tie big loopy bows and tuck
>inside as needed.
>
>Alexandria
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress forms
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:08:11 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>-Poster: rima@anet.net wrote:

>OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
>adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
>she's 4 inches taller and thinner!
>
>Am I dreaming???

I am thinking of getting the uniquely you dress form as well.  But from
Greenberg & Hammer, who lists them in their catalog for about $200 instead
of $250, except I'm guessing the $250 is canadian, which is probably about
the same in US currency.....

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 15:07:36 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I am thinking of getting the uniquely you dress form as well.  But from
>Greenberg & Hammer, who lists them in their catalog for about $200 instead
>of $250, 

The last time I noticed, Jo Anne's fabrics carried them, by special order.
BUT even special orders are included in the 40 or 50 per cent off everything
in the store sales they have several times a year.  Get on their mailing
list the next time you're there, keep watching the sales, and you can get
one for around $100.

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 15:12:58 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:18:27 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

Michelle wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
>    It might be easier to put it on with the laces in front, rather than
> trying to get yourself into it after it is laced. That would be like
> climbing through a coat hanger.  You have to have long laces for this method
> to.  Put it on backwards, lace it up bottom to top and turn it around
> yourself to the back. Pull the laces from above your head.
>   I think this is an instance where you have to experiment until you find
> what works for you.

Actually, doing it that way would be just as difficult for me, you see, 
I have a chest that gets in my way of seeing my waist line unless
physically lifted out of the way.  Much easier to slip it on then lace
in the back for me!

Alexandria
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:08:50 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:19:58 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 02:51 PM 09/12/1999 -0400, you wrote:>-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>In a message dated 9/12/99 11:46:32 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:
> "Kels" mentioned looking for the Simplicity zoot suit pattern; ...<snip>...
>  ______ >>
>I was the assistant designer of "Zoot Suit"  when it premiered at the Mark 
>Taper Forum in Los Angeles.  All of the suits were constructed in the shop
by 
>professional tailors.  I haven't seen the pattern...<snip>... I imagine
you can alter the >Simplicity pattern to do all of these things if you know
how to tailor.  Cheryl Odom
            But the problem for me, Cheryl, and I suspect for a lot of
others who buy patterns is--we don't yet know how to tailor.  So, when the
big pattern-makers come out with a pattern that is going to need all of
these alterations in order to make it look right, and I sew it, after
fitting it as best I know how, and doing everything the instructions say
to, and it still doesn't look right--it is very frustrating.  When I have
time and money, I will take classes, perhaps, but right now, I don't.  I
wish the pattern companies would take a little more thought for people like
me, I guess.  Thanks for listening to me rant...I'll go skulk now. Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:13:14 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:28:28 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
In-Reply-To: <E11Pj8m-0001l2-00@mongoose.slip.net>
References: <37DA1246.E54DEB2D@worldnet.att.net>
 <19990910225205.66050.qmail@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 02:06 AM 11/09/99 -0700, you wrote:
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>At 01:26 AM 09/11/1999, Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>wrote:
>>Kris wrote: oh! oh! I have LOTS of navy.. AND cranberry.. in the same
>fabric..
>>> *plotting a new scheme* Maybe I'll do THAT for my It.Ren, and use the
light
>>> one for.. something else down the road..
>>           Either would be good.  Green too (everyone break into a round
>of "Greensleeves" ;-) 
<snip>
>which to choose.  I'm getting excited about doing my first Italian Ren
>outfit, too, and will attempt more authenticity than I ever have before.  I
>decided on side lacings, too, since, alas, I have no 'tiring maid, nor
>beloved who might aid me to lace otherwise.  -- Gra/inne

I thought about doing it more authentic, but then I discovered that I
lost/used/gave away a great dea of my navy fabric. 3 metres of 45" isn't
enough.. *sigh*
So... yesterday I was in a fabric store & discovered gorgeous silk.. at
$35/m...
Something I want, but cannot afford.
Then.. today, I discovered some poly suiting that drapes and feels quite
similar to the silk.. in the clearance section. So I bought it all! It's
mottled black and burgundy, so I'm going to trim it in black and gold and
pretend that there was a great accident in the Laundry, and my rich cousin
gave the gown to me.. *grin*
It's a plausible story :]

I also found some *bright* kelly green linen fabric.. in the clearance
section..
I'm pondering what to make out of it. I think there's 3 metres of 60" fabric..
Any ideas? It's not my best color, so it has to be a style with lots of
trim near my face :]

Kris
plotting yet another new scheme :]

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:18:38 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:34:03 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: boring clothes
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 05:02 AM 11/09/99 -0500, you wrote:
>     My biggest pet peeve is unmatched plaids!  Current manufacturers seem
>to be visually impaired concerning plaids.  If the plaid in a garment is
>unmatched, it's cheap, IMHO, regardless of what the price tag reads!
>Meg

oh! and stripes!!
when the front & back pieces of a tshirt don't have the striped pattern
matching on the side seams, it looks so awful! :]

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:24:13 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

 "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> wrote:  
>...I would suggest that you look
at a very simple answer - *strapt* is after all a form of *strapped* and it
might well mean that they were *strapped together in a bundle*. <

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm pretty confident that it's not the 
meaning, because of my experience with many other inventory lists for the 
HBC. It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an 
inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts (and 
no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6 
"check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped" shirts, 
6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts. 
Thanks, too, for the contact information on Gail Cariou--I'll forward my 
question to her.

Your obliged & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:49:04 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:05:29 -0500
From: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Thanks for your help!  I'll have to try the instructions and see what happens.

jb

<<<There is a lengthy discussion of fulling here:
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/rialto/felting-msg.html.  It was
a process applied to wool as it came off the loom to compact
the weave by shrinking, make it both more sturdy and more
supple. >>>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:50:29 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Info on curator Mimi Vincent wanted
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: re: your other list
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 12:45:01 -0400
From: Peter Zavon <PZavon@compuserve.com>
To: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 you said to Savoynet, in part

Hi!, 
A friend is trying to locate someone who was active in historic
costume.  He hopes we may know of her whereabouts.

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net

------------------
>One of the other lists that I'm on, Historic Costume (630 members)...

Interesting.  By chance, do you know if there is a person on that list
named Margaret (Mimi) Vincent?  She was active in the BU Savoyards in
the
early 1970's but when we had our recent reunion, she was among the
missing.
 Her focus was theatrical costuming and, when last I saw her (in the
early
80's) she was a curator at the Georgetown Costume Museum in
Philadelphia.

We are a bit concerned because someone got the impression she had died.


Peter Zavon
Penfield, NY

PZAVON@Compuserve.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 17:32:19 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <007a01befd49$bd6e1260$ef46cfcf@gia-g>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:44:54 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

Had to add my story to the list of those who prefer handsewing.
Until very recently I used to sew everything by hand because I was flat out
terrified of sewing machines.
As a girl during WWII my mother worked in a factory, sewing uniform pants
for the troops. When I was growing up she told me the most gory stories
about how she would try to sew so fast she'd sew straight through her
finger, pause, take her little pair of pliers, pull the needle out of her
finger, re-insert it into the machine and go back to work!
It's a wonder I ever managed to pick up a needle of any sort!

Kerrie, the hopelessly traumatised. ;-D

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 17:47:49 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 16:01:57 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress forms
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>I am thinking of getting the uniquely you dress form as well.  But from
>Greenberg & Hammer, who lists them in their catalog for about $200 instead
>of $250, except I'm guessing the $250 is canadian, which is probably about
>the same in US currency.....

It's less! The exchange rate in canada is $1.54 canadian to $1 US....
Or.. at least, that's what it is at my bank :]

You could ask them how much they would charge for it in US$, and make your
comparisons that way..

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 17:51:42 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:18:33 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

MissMela@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MissMela@aol.com
> 
> I am starting on a 17th or 16th (haven't found the right wool yet) 1895
> Lancer's Full Levee Dress uniform for my husband but am having trouble
> locating the correct hat. I have pictures but do not know who sells them. Any
> help list? 
Miss Mela
>  _______
You could try a company called Military Metalwork  in the Uk. They make
accoutrements, hats, buttons, badges leatherwork etc for repro uniforms
and have currently got an order from the British MOD to make proper
Lancer Caps as made in the 19th century . I use them all the time
email andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.ukleave this mailing list,
send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 18:08:45 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 19:21:34 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Info on curator Mimi Vincent wanted
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

I had lunch with Margaret Vincent at the Connecticut Historical Society in 
June. I met her in the late '80s at Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts 
(MESDA) in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Please email me offline and I can 
give you her telephone number if you think this is the person you are looking 
for.

Sally 

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 18:17:55 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 19:30:51 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk question
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 9/12/99 12:35:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
HighlndLss@aol.com writes:

<< silk would not be something used for chemises, except 
 for a very wealthy women. >>
18th c. chemises/shifts were generally linen. More wealthy women used a fine, 
bleached white linen while lower sorts wore osnaburg or a coarser unbleached 
linen.

They saved the more expensive silk for outwear for all to see! Perhaps a fine 
neck handkerchief would work with your fabric? 


Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com

(who spent "de-lurking day" at Library of Congress reading 1770 PA. Gazette. 
Thank you Penny for giving me the day off the computer! Want me to post a 
great merchant ad from John Smith of Philadelphia?) 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 19:02:40 1999
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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Los Angeles
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:12:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

<< We're also looking forward to moving to Los Angeles later this year,
because
we'll be able to wear our favorite things more!

Kels >>


>Let us know when and exactly where you move. Then we can point out all the
>good shopping places! Mela

Sounds great!  I really am looking forward to it...so much to do before we
get there....  <sigh>

Found The Zoot suit pattern and the Shakespeare one today!  My DH has wanted
a Zoot for years.

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 19:04:05 1999
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: 17th century
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:15:22 +1000
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-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

And another :

English Civil War - London Trayned Bandes 1642.

Pike and Musket Soc. of NSW (Australia)
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Forum/8500/index.htm

(our unofficial motto is that we take our reenactment seriously and
ourselves not seriously at all)

Glenda Robynsone
(Wyf of the Wytchefynder General, who has his retracting pin on order!)

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sunday, 12 September 1999 12:36
Subject: H-COST: Re: 17th century


>> >To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th
century
>> >enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!
>> >Kate Bunting
>> >King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot
>> --------
>> Jill and Kate,
>> I do 17th c. (Cavalier Association, Columbus Ohio, US). We do ECW in the
US
>> and American colonial 17th century.  This summer, went to the muster at
>> Salem Village 1630. If I ever get to the UK again (last trip was 1984),
>> I'd love to attend some ECW and other events!
>>
>> Marsha Hamilton
>>
>And here are even more ;-) !I belong to an English-/German cooperative
>group that does French and English baroque in the 17th century.
>We want to focus on civilian events but there is also a regiment being
>built up, the
>"Kirke`s Lambs".
>We`re just starting out, if you`d like to know more about the group,
>visit
>http://www.kipar.org, there are some pics and information about 17th
>century dress up as well.
>
>Many greetings,
>Diana
>
>

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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:21:17 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

>
>"Kels" mentioned looking for the Simplicity zoot suit pattern; I've gone to
>check it out and don't think much of it. The jacket isn't right, except
that
>it's long, and it might look okay for a stage costume but I don't think it
>would pass muster for real wear. A man's jacket really has to be tailored,
I
>guess. The pants looked okay but not great -- better than anything else,
>though.
>
>Gail Finke

I =do= intend to do modifications to it, but it's a lot faster for me than
drafting it up from scratch!  And if anyone else has seen any other patterns
for them, let me know.  This is the first one I've found.  I frequently use
a pattern that's got some lines I can use and go from there, with sketches
of what I want it to end up as.

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 19:20:26 1999
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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:31:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

>I was the assistant designer of "Zoot Suit"  when it premiered at the Mark
>Taper Forum in Los Angeles.  All of the suits were constructed in the shop
by
>professional tailors.  I haven't seen the pattern but I can tell you that
the
>waists have to be cut high to the middle of the rib cage at least with
front
>pleats, very full through the legs and then quickly pegged at the bottom,
>then cuffed.  The coat is very broad through the shoulders (big tailoring
>shoulder pads or even two) and the hem of the coat is fingertip length.
The
>lapels are wide.  There has to be pad stitching, canvas, roll tape, the
>works, and you need to make your own canvas fronts due to the length.  I
>imaging you can alter the Simplicity pattern to do all of these things if
you
>know how to tailor.  Cheryl Odom
> _________________________________________________________________

Great, Cheryl!  Do you have any pictures of the production?  Or places to go
for good reference?  Those adjustments are all ones I'm planning, and I've
been wanting to try my hand at traditional tailoring for awhile, and since
this isn't something with a deadline, it should be fun.  What sort of
fabrics were these done in?

I need to dig out some of my photos and set up a website...

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 20:16:07 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: traumatized stories
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:36:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



One of my friends accidentally sewed a teddy bear head to her thumb in 7th
grade home-ec.  She has been terrified of sewing machines ever since and
just recently commented that she should get over it. She is about 35 years
old now.  These things happen.
  Michelle
>-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
>Had to add my story to the list of those who prefer handsewing.
>Until very recently I used to sew everything by hand because I was flat out
>terrified of sewing machines.
>As a girl during WWII my mother worked in a factory, sewing uniform pants
>for the troops. When I was growing up she told me the most gory stories
>about how she would try to sew so fast she'd sew straight through her
>finger, pause, take her little pair of pliers, pull the needle out of her
>finger, re-insert it into the machine and go back to work!
>It's a wonder I ever managed to pick up a needle of any sort!
>
>Kerrie, the hopelessly traumatised. ;-D
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costumers dress/red hair
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:29:01 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_010A_01BEFD65.D4A59C20
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The red hair effect must rub off - even through virtual contact only. =
Over the past year or two my hair has become more and more red. My once =
blond - turned brown ( a very ash brown) hair now has a rather intense =
coppery undertone. Dye does absolutely nothing! Red hair simply does not =
go with wine, plum, or fuchsia - some of my favorite colors! So while =
red hair is in I'm trying desperately to get rid of mine. :)=20

After reading posts from many of you who wear vintage items, vintage =
inspired fashions, and colors or styles which are "out" of =
fashion/season I have just one question -  why do I never meet people =
like you in my "real", as opposed to online, life??? All my friends and =
coworkers are real off the rack at Macys type people. Not that dressing =
like the masses is bad - I just imagine that it would be more fun with =
someone egging me on while I egged them on.

------=_NextPart_000_010A_01BEFD65.D4A59C20
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The red hair effect must rub off - even through =
virtual=20
contact only. Over the past year or two my hair has become more and more =
red. My=20
once blond - turned brown ( a very ash brown) hair now has a rather =
intense=20
coppery undertone. Dye does absolutely nothing! Red hair simply does not =
go with=20
wine, plum, or fuchsia - some of my favorite colors! So while red hair =
is in I'm=20
trying desperately to get rid of mine. :) </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>After reading posts from many of you who wear =
vintage items,=20
vintage inspired fashions, and colors or styles which are "out" of=20
fashion/season&nbsp;I have just one question -  why do I never meet =
people like=20
you in my "real", as opposed to online, life??? All my friends and =
coworkers are=20
real off the rack at Macys type people. Not that dressing like the =
masses is bad=20
- I just imagine that it would be more fun with someone egging me on =
while I=20
egged them on.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_010A_01BEFD65.D4A59C20--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 20:18:08 1999
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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ace71c88.250c1124@aol.com> <008b01befcb6$c408a1a0$3b56accf@e4c2n6> <000901befcb9$4f5b85e0$a353ccd1@ouppc> <00b701befcbc$7210afe0$3b56accf@e4c2n6>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>

> > Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the
movie
> > Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have
mentioned
> > having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle
pigmentation
> > and a passion for historical costume. <g>

My mother's hair was blond as a baby, red as a child, and then turned
chestnut...I came out a blond who turned dull brown in puberty -
straight to the dye bottle as a 15 year old with my mother's blessing.
I've contemplated becoming a strawberry blond or adding lavender
highlights several times, but always shied away.

I'm still somewhat embryonic as a costumer. I'm spending all my time
perfecting cut and seam finishing, and haven't yet got around to
embellishment. In Real Life, I wear lots and lots of navy blue suits
with increasingly esoteric jewellery. My fellow employees are becoming
tolerant as they slowly learn that I am That Way. At home I wear long
earthtone dresses that hide my avoirdupois, and blond hair down to my
waist.

I'm beginning to suspect that I am a closet hippie hypocrite. Too
bourgeois to forgo making a living, militant towards parochial
medicine and infuriated by a !@#$ government that only mandates 55%
maternity pay.

Eve Harris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 20:24:35 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:36:33 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

> Beth wrote:
> 
> The red hair effect must rub off - even through virtual contact only.
> Over the past year or two my hair has become more and more red. My
> once blond - turned brown ( a very ash brown) hair now has a rather
> intense coppery undertone. Dye does absolutely nothing! Red hair
> simply does not go with wine, plum, or fuchsia - some of my favorite
> colors! So while red hair is in I'm trying desperately to get rid of
> mine. :)

I don't think there is any color I *don't* wear in some form or
another!  I definitely can wear wine, plum & fuchsia...must be my
complexion.  The weird thing in my family is that my husband is almost
exactly one shade off from me in hair & skin color and our children are
the same (all of us very, very fair w/auburn hair) while *both* our
mothers have hair so brown it looks black with olive complexions.

> After reading posts from many of you who wear vintage items, vintage
> inspired fashions, and colors or styles which are "out" of
> fashion/season I have just one question - why do I never meet people
> like you in my "real", as opposed to online, life??? All my friends
> and coworkers are real off the rack at Macys type people. Not that
> dressing like the masses is bad - I just imagine that it would be more
> fun with someone egging me on while I egged them on.

Hmmmm...maybe you aren't hitting the right places after work?

Kat
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

MissMela@aol.com wrote:
>Oh, Penny, one week after I saw you last, I spiral permed all that long
> hair of mine and it's still that way. No more straight hair. My mother says I
> refuse to grow up! Miss Mela

Yes, but it looks lovely that way.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 20:59:48 1999
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re:what costumers wear/was boring clothes
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 22:12:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

hmm.. interesting thread.

at work i wear fairly conservative black/white/grey, usually pants with
sweaters or jackets, sometimes skirts. NEVER heels.

at home i usually wear cargo pants/t shirts (yes, not exciting i know but
when im puttering around the house/playing with my cats its really best). i
only get creative when i leave the house with current sort of ex-raver
cyberpunk look - lots of black with silver jewelry, but comfortable and with
platform sneakers. purple highlights to the hair will be added soon.

allison

p.s. to the talahassee person looking for the more fashionable clothes -
isnt the web great?





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 21:15:13 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 22:27:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/99 11:09:55 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
kristen.gee@linkpa.com writes:

<< Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
 
 I think that my confusion about sleeves is mostly style-based. I've heard of
 'french sleeves' and  I've seen lots of different things in paintings of
 that time period, but there never seems to be one 'standard sleeve'. Is that
 because there were a lot of different styles? Or were sleeve styles 'trendy'
 and change frequently? That's my issue of confusion.
    I am going to the Pennsylvania RenFaire in Mt. Hope, PA. I am making the
 costume for a high school costume competition (I'm in high school)
            Kristen >>


Kristen,
  In answer to your question (I am unlurking to answer this)  Yes, tied in 
sleeves are VERY correct to use in an Elizabethan.  As for the confusion on 
styles...well, I can certainly understand.  Sleeves varied so much, not only 
from country to country, but from dress to dress.  Sleeves were trendy 
indeed....that's one of the reasons they could be tied in.  One can change 
the look of one's outfit by putting different sleeves on.  There are some 
very general characteristics of nationalities adopting certain sleeve styles, 
like Spain and the numerous styles of hanging over-sleeves they adorned 
themselves with, but that wasn't something that was strictly "done" in Spain. 
 There are so many portraits that have people mixing and matching componants 
of their dress, that you can put just about any style of sleeve with any type 
of dress ( I tought a class on this yesterday)  Sleeves were limited only by 
the imagination and the abilities of the tailors of the time... Go for it!!!!!
      If you can get your hands on _Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd_, you 
will have a perfect reference as to the "styles" of sleeves.  It is located 
in the Chapter titled "In Pursuit of Fashion."  Here Ms. Arnold gives 
descriptions of what the different styles of dress looked like.  Sleeves are 
almost always something that is mentioned as one of the defining componants 
of a type or style. 
      As for a "French sleeve"...the French had a style of sleeve that had a 
very large padded roll at the shoulder (actually a part of the bodice) under 
which fitted, (Elizabeth of Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello) semi-fitted 
(Armada portrait) sleeves were worn, or the sleeves of the chemise or partlet 
were  shown (Unkown girl aged 21).  In this case, the sleeves of the chemise 
or partlet were usually embroidered.  

hope this helps,

Charles
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/99 6:42:06 AM !!!First Boot!!!, 
carrie@greateralchemy.net writes:

<< So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
 life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
 fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
 --Katharine Whisler >>


In everyday life, I tend to be rather trendy...I love to wear Jeans, but all 
of them (11 pairs) are either Guess or Tommy Hilfiger (latest season).  On 
shirts, I try to buy what ever is mod and in, but I'm less picky on name 
brands.  When I dress up, i usually do the Docker--knit polo type shirt 
thing, or a trendy sports coat over a casual-type shirt.  I detest ties with 
a passion. (Under no circumstances do I ever sew for my mundane dress needs) 
Fabric content is not even something I think about, I mean I bought the mosy 
awesome black rayon (suede look) long sleeve shirt.  I can't wash it, and it 
does not breathe.....but it was so darn cool!!!!!!
I think in historical clothing my tastes mirror, if not out do, those of my 
mundane clothing.  I like to dress like I'm in court (read on display) often, 
though I do have plenty of heat-comfort aware clothing.....(should have seen 
the Greecian at Pennsic, I was glad I was so far from home). Here, fabric 
content is definitely something I think about.

Interesting topic,

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 22:03:12 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:15:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/12/99 3:23:38 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
cjcannon@greymists.com writes:

<<  But the problem for me, Cheryl, and I suspect for a lot of
 others who buy patterns is--we don't yet know how to tailor.  >>
I'm  sorry.  I'm new to this list and am not yet aware of all of the various 
levels of skills.  I'm not a professional tailor but have done my share of 
tailoring for period pieces for the theatre.  I would be happy to answer 
questions and help anyway I can.  Cheryl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 22:28:59 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:40:32 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:15 PM 09/12/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>I'm  sorry.  I'm new to this list and am not yet aware of all of the various 
>levels of skills.  I'm not a professional tailor but have done my share of 
>tailoring for period pieces for the theatre.  I would be happy to answer 
>questions and help anyway I can.  Cheryl
       Thank you very much.  I appreciate and respect all of you who are so
generous with your time, experience and skills. I'm learning something
almost daily--in theory--and storing up things to apply/try with each new
project.  I just think occasionally that those who have the expertise in
any arena need an occasional reminder that not everyone's at their level
yet--and that includes me in my own specialties. :-)  I certainly did not
mean it to be only directed to you...although it was your post to which I
replied.  Again...thank you.  I hope you'll enjoy the list...I surely do.
-- Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 22:33:34 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:45:58 -0700
From: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>
Organization: House Wolfholme
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-Poster: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>

A little late for delurking day, but here goes. We used to have an
eyeleting machine and I'm looking for a replacement. It looked like an
over-grown office stapler. It operated by placing the item to be
eyeleted on the base and pulling down the lever. The little eyelet
holder would then rotate and another eyelet would drop down into the
track waiting for it's turn.
I've been doing an increasing amount of grommeting but punching the
holes  with our rotery hole punch is too hard on my hands. Does anyone
have a solution for either the hole punching or a source for an
affordable eyeleting/grommeting machine. I hope that made sense.


-- 
Freya

Abair ach beag, is abair gu math e.
Say but little, and say it well.
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 03:31:32 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Slashing (was: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's
  Strike Day)
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Of course, if you take a look at some of the German paintings, and you
>see the slashes from shoulder to waist, I would say that they would have
>*had* to line them in some way. 

Actually there is a portrait of a Spanish lady  with *large* slashes in her
doublet & sleeves (Spanish round sleeves)  They all have an edge of
different colour/fabric - it's hard to tell the copy I have is in B&W.  So
I would say it's an option, just not common.

The picture, I believe, is in the "Costume of the Western World Series -
The Dominace of Spain".

Cheers,
Danielle - the semi-lurker

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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

When I was a kid during WWII my Dad had a factory making duffle bags and
canvas water tanks for the troops in North. Africa.  We had BIG sewing
machines and they had BIG needles - remember that not only were they
industrial but I was very young.  I ran one of those for awhile.  Scared
s-less.  Never again.. I have seen people who got in the way of one of those
and had a needle go through their finger.
I know it is irrationale when you think about present day home sewing
machines but there is no way I will touch one.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: traumatized stories
>Date: Sun, Sep 12, 1999, 6:36 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>
>One of my friends accidentally sewed a teddy bear head to her thumb in 7th
>grade home-ec.  She has been terrified of sewing machines ever since and
>just recently commented that she should get over it. She is about 35 years
>old now.  These things happen.
>  Michelle
>>-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>>
>>Had to add my story to the list of those who prefer handsewing.
>>Until very recently I used to sew everything by hand because I was flat
out
>>terrified of sewing machines.
>>As a girl during WWII my mother worked in a factory, sewing uniform pants
>>for the troops. When I was growing up she told me the most gory stories
>>about how she would try to sew so fast she'd sew straight through her
>>finger, pause, take her little pair of pliers, pull the needle out of her
>>finger, re-insert it into the machine and go back to work!
>>It's a wonder I ever managed to pick up a needle of any sort!
>>
>>Kerrie, the hopelessly traumatised. ;-D
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 23:40:13 1999
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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

I've once again come across the assertion that Elizabeth issued a royal
command that military uniforms have a line of buttons on the sleeves to
prevent soldiers from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  I've seen
this statement several times, but it's never been footnoted to track
back to the original.  Fact or folklore?  If fact, where is it
documented?

Thanks,
--Charlene

--
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 23:45:56 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:40:14 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes/RED HAIR
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well although my parents thought that I would be a red-head, I proved my
contrary nature a became a deep ash blonde instead. I 'assist' the
brightness of my hair with some lighter blonde color. But I haven't
changed the essential color of my hair, I'm just too darn pale to go with
any other shade (pale grey-blue eyes and translucent white skin- yes, I'm
Northern European, why do you ask?)

Karen
(SPF 3000 is my friend)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 23:45:59 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:26:35 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I can't remember where I heard the term right now, late after a long
weekend, but the style is quite common int he early part of Elizabeth's
reign, before the '80's. It is the short sleeve that comes down to
mid-upper arm with a tight 'cuff' and a very full top. It then frequently
has a corrdinating or contasting tight under sleeve which goes down to
the wrist. you can frequently see this on surcoats. hang on a sec and
I'll try to dig up some specific examples........"A Visual History of
Costume" by Jane Ashelford  pg 66 Unknown lady, 1560, pg. 72 Elizabet
Roydon, Lady Golding 1563, pg. 80 Four ladies 1a: London Citizen's Wife
1570. If I was more awake I would dig further, but it just isn't gonna
happen tonight. If you would like more examples, let me know and I'll dig
them up tomorrow.

Karen
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

On Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:54:05 -0700 (PDT) Margo Anderson
<margo@directcon.net> writes:
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> 
> >The early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of sleeve 
> 
> I've never heard this term.  What is a mahoitered sleeve?
> 
> margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From: Gothic Splendour <mercury@eagle.ca>
Subject: H-COST: First Elizabethan
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-Poster: Gothic Splendour <mercury@eagle.ca>

Hello all-

I'm putting on a fashion show at a local theatre with a "fashions through
the last millenium" theme.  I have a broad range of periods represented but
would like to add an Elizabethan.  This is one period I've never really
studied much (in terms of costume construction)so I bought the much touted
Simplicity pattern & it seems straight forward enough.  My question is
related to fabric choice & colour co-ordination.

I'm thinking of a combination of crimson & dark aubergine or plum with
silver accents.  I'd like this dress to be fairly authentic, I'm not
entering it in any competitions but I don't like doing all of the work to
have something that is totally off target.  I figure there are several main
pieces to think about: overskirt, underskirt, bodice, sleeves.  Was there
any sort of rule, sleeves match underskirt or bodice matches underskirt...?
Would a lady have worn a crimson dress?  I'll be showing it with
garnet/pearl jewellery so I figured I'd add pearls to the dress somewhere.
Would these colours look strange with cream added in somewhere - maybe the
sleeves?  I read that satin is a good choice for the overskirt, would that
be ok with a brocade underskirt?

I'm looking forward to any ideas that you can offer.


Thanks

Elizabeth

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 23:59:57 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:08:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 5:02:06 AM !!!First Boot!!!, seamstrix@juno.com 
writes:

<< I can't remember where I heard the term right now, late after a long
 weekend, but the style is quite common int he early part of Elizabeth's
 reign, before the '80's. It is the short sleeve that comes down to
 mid-upper arm with a tight 'cuff' and a very full top. It then frequently
 has a corrdinating or contasting tight under sleeve which goes down to
 the wrist. you can frequently see this on surcoats. hang on a sec and
 I'll try to dig up some specific examples >>


Sounds very much like what Janet Arnold points out as Flemish.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 00:20:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:33:38 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: First Elizabethan
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 5:06:08 AM !!!First Boot!!!, mercury@eagle.ca 
writes:

<< I'm thinking of a combination of crimson & dark aubergine or plum with
 silver accents.  I'd like this dress to be fairly authentic, I'm not
 entering it in any competitions but I don't like doing all of the work to
 have something that is totally off target.  I figure there are several main
 pieces to think about: overskirt, underskirt, bodice, sleeves.  Was there
 any sort of rule, sleeves match underskirt or bodice matches underskirt...?<<

If you are doing the Simplicty Patern 8881 Elizabethan, here's what I would 
suggest.
It was very common that the bodice matched the overskirt...but that is 
nothing near a "rule."  Sometimes the sleeves could match the underskirt, so 
the idea of doing so is feasible.  There are portraits of Elizabeth with her 
sleeves matching her underskirt. (The Armada)  Another idea would be to make 
the sleeves, bodice, and overskirt match.  I've seen more examples of this.
 

>>Would a lady have worn a crimson dress?  I'll be showing it with
 garnet/pearl jewellery so I figured I'd add pearls to the dress somewhere.
 Would these colours look strange with cream added in somewhere - maybe the
 sleeves?  I read that satin is a good choice for the overskirt, would that
 be ok with a brocade underskirt?<<

Crimson, I think, would be a lovely choice of colour. Yes, they did indeed 
wear that color too....acording to very basic Elizabethan Costuming book 
Crimson (or blood red as I have always equated it with) was fashionably known 
as "sangyn."  Satin was a period fabric, but "our" satins tend to get hot and 
wrinkly.  My initial gut reaction was to do the opposite:  I would put the 
brocade on the outside and the satin on the inside as the 
underskirt...decorated with trim and beading of course!!!  That however is 
just my personal opinion....and opinions are like belly buttons, we've all 
got one.
 
 >>I'm looking forward to any ideas that you can offer.
 
 
 Thanks
 
 Elizabeth
  >>

I wish you the best of luck on this.  Elizabethan costuming is much fun.

Charles
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990912.235154.-435891.1.seamstrix@juno.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costumer's boring clothes and red hair
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 02:00:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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All this talk of clothes has made me take a long look at my wardrobe.  =
Pathetic comes to mind...my clothes, that is.  I dress boring.  I live =
in South Florida, casual capitol of the country, or so I tell myself.  =
Everything is casual here...work, nightlife, formal occasions.  It's =
horrible.  I used to dress to the nine, always looking polished and =
perfect with the latest trends strategically mixed with classics.  I =
wore rich autumn colors and lovely navies and reds.  Sure I was =
overdressed compared to most people, but I felt good about it.  Now my =
wardrobe consists of jeans, shorts, knit tops and an occasional =
sundress. =20

Well, this discussion has inspired me to change this.  Although I rarely =
sew for myself (always too busy with other people's projects), I will =
make an attempt to spend some time building a new, more exciting =
wardrobe.  I am actually starting to get excited about this idea. =20

As for red hair, mine is a natural golden blonde.  Perfectly straight =
and thick.  I died it red a few months ago, but have decided to go back =
to being a blonde.  I, too, am very pale with slate blue eyes, but feel =
I pulled off the red fairly well.  I am just bored and would like to be =
blonde again.  Incidentally, I rarely burn, even with tan magnifier at =
the beach.  Weird, I know.

As for historical flair, I think that I would like to add a touch of it =
to my new wardrobe.  Not sure how yet, but it certainly is a fresh idea =
I've never even thought about. =20

Thanks to the poster who started this discussion.  I think I am ready =
for a wardrobe change.

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BEFD8B.B0D6C820
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>All this talk of clothes has made me take a long look at my =
wardrobe.&nbsp;=20
Pathetic comes to mind...my clothes, that is.&nbsp; I dress =
boring.&nbsp; I live=20
in South Florida, casual capitol of the country, or so I tell =
myself.&nbsp;=20
Everything is casual here...work, nightlife, formal occasions.&nbsp; =
It's=20
horrible.&nbsp; I used to dress to the nine, always looking polished and =
perfect=20
with the latest trends strategically mixed with classics.&nbsp; I wore =
rich=20
autumn colors and lovely navies and reds.&nbsp; Sure I was overdressed =
compared=20
to most people, but I felt good about it.&nbsp; Now my wardrobe consists =
of=20
jeans, shorts, knit tops and an occasional sundress.&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Well, this discussion has inspired&nbsp;me to change=20
this.&nbsp;&nbsp;Although I rarely sew for myself (always too busy with =
other=20
people's projects), I will make an attempt to spend some time building a =
new,=20
more exciting wardrobe.&nbsp; I am actually starting to get excited =
about this=20
idea.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>As for red hair, mine is a natural golden blonde.&nbsp; Perfectly =
straight=20
and thick.&nbsp; I died it red a few months ago, but have decided to go =
back to=20
being a blonde.&nbsp; I, too, am very pale with slate blue eyes, but =
feel I=20
pulled off the red fairly well.&nbsp; I am just bored and would like to =
be=20
blonde again.&nbsp; Incidentally, I rarely burn, even with tan magnifier =
at the=20
beach.&nbsp; Weird, I know.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>As for historical flair, I think that I would like to add a touch =
of it to=20
my new wardrobe.&nbsp; Not sure how yet, but it certainly is a fresh =
idea I've=20
never even thought about.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks to the poster who started this discussion.&nbsp; I think I =
am ready=20
for a wardrobe change.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:24:53 +0200
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
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-Poster: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>

--=====================_1057700==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 02:49 AM 9/11/99 , you wrote:
>these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
>arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol

i think i can tell you about arabicum. there's not much to it: it's just a 
white powder any good chemist's has in stock. you mix it with water until 
it's got the consistency you want; the only watch point is not to let lumps 
develop. it gives a wonderful, all-natural glue that dries as quickly as 
you like it, depending on how thick you make it. i've used it to glue 
drawings on a board for framing, and as contour liner for silk painting - 
wonderful for both. the drawback or andvantage (depending on what you use 
it for) is that it dissolves in water very easily. wash once and it's gone.

salut,
pompadour


Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)
http://www.marquise.de            webmaster@marquise.de 
--=====================_1057700==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3>At 02:49 AM 9/11/99 , you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>these?&nbsp; Or, alternately, happen to have
handy the recipes for gum<br>
arabic/gum tragacanth?&nbsp;&nbsp; Carol</blockquote><br>
i think i can tell you about arabicum. there's not much to it: it's just
a white powder any good chemist's has in stock. you mix it with water
until it's got the consistency you want; the only watch point is not to
let lumps develop. it gives a wonderful, all-natural glue that dries as
quickly as you like it, depending on how thick you make it. i've used it
to glue drawings on a board for framing, and as contour liner for silk
painting - wonderful for both. the drawback or andvantage (depending on
what you use it for) is that it dissolves in water very easily. wash once
and it's gone.<br>
<br>
salut,<br>
pompadour</font><br>
<br>
<br>
<div>Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA </div>
<div>His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)</div>
<a href="http://www.marquise.de/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>http://www.marquise.de</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
webmaster@marquise.de 
</html>

--=====================_1057700==_.ALT--

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:48:25 +0200
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
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-Poster: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>

--=====================_1057811==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 09:16 PM 9/11/99 , you wrote:

> > This brings up a good question... I have a great
> > corset that I would *love* to wear more often, but the
> > only one around to help me lace it is my boyfriend who
> > won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it by
> > yourself?

my corsets are all 17th/18th century... one i've made to lace in front; for 
those that lace in back i've bought satin ribbon 15 ft long so that i can 
easily pull them over my head. however, there's a better method, and i 
could have thought of it earlier as that is similar how i put on my bras: i 
put it on backwards, the shoulder straps un-tied, and thread the laces 
through the holes with a large blunt needle. then i turn the corset round 
and pull the straps tight reaching behind me... well, i guess that latter 
part won't work in a couple year's time anymore... being laced in by 
someone else certainly achieves a closer fit most of the time.
at least i know that front-lacing cosets existed in the 18th-20th century.

salut,
pompadour



Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)
http://www.marquise.de            webmaster@marquise.de 
--=====================_1057811==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3>At 09:16 PM 9/11/99 , you wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>&gt; This brings up a good question... I have
a great<br>
&gt; corset that I would *love* to wear more often, but the<br>
&gt; only one around to help me lace it is my boyfriend who<br>
&gt; won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it by<br>
&gt; yourself?</blockquote><br>
my corsets are all 17th/18th century... one i've made to lace in front;
for those that lace in back i've bought satin ribbon 15 ft long so that i
can easily pull them over my head. however, there's a better method, and
i could have thought of it earlier as that is similar how i put on my
bras: i put it on backwards, the shoulder straps un-tied, and thread the
laces through the holes with a large blunt needle. then i turn the corset
round and pull the straps tight reaching behind me... well, i guess that
latter part won't work in a couple year's time anymore... being laced in
by someone else certainly achieves a closer fit most of the time. <br>
at least i know that front-lacing cosets existed in the 18th-20th
century.<br>
<br>
salut,<br>
pompadour<br>
</font><br>
<br>
<br>
<div>Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA </div>
<div>His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)</div>
<a href="http://www.marquise.de/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>http://www.marquise.de</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
webmaster@marquise.de 
</html>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 02:05:49 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 00:17:50 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
In-Reply-To: <4.2.0.58.19990912211712.00b8a400@pop.gmx.de>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:24 PM 09/12/1999 +0200, you wrote:  i think i can tell you about
arabicum. ... <snip> ... the drawback or andvantage (depending on what you
use it for) is that it dissolves in water very easily. wash once and it's
gone.  salut,  pompadour Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
  His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs.)
http://www.marquise.de            webmaster@marquise.de 
        Mme. de Pompadour, thank you so much for your clear and concise
response.  Your whole signature 'package' makes me think you would be well
worth getting acquainted with. :-)  I have been told that both gums are
from tree saps and as such do not have recipes for preparation, beyond what
you have written--which, I suppose, makes me a bit off a sap, for
wondering, but I truly did not know and am glad I now do, so that I do not
regret having asked.  Again, my thanks.  Carol, aka: Gráinne ingen Domnaill
Ildánaig, in the SCA, Inc. [GiDI, not for nothing...]

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:53:42 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>


On Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:36:48   R.L. Shep wrote:
>
>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

 We had BIG sewing
>machines and they had BIG needles - remember that not only were they
>industrial but I was very young.  I ran one of those for awhile.  Scared
>s-less.  Never again.. 

My father used to make historic flags for movies when he was  in his mid-20's living in LA. So HE had a huge sewing maching...the thing must weigh 100lbs, I can't move it, all though it is "portable" there is a place where a handle goes. Once many years ago (before me) someone broke into his office at the company and came through the ceiling...falling onto the machine got so mad they through it out the window on the 4th floor.., all it did was crack the top of the case. It must be cast iron is all I can think. It has normal needles in it, but it can sew anything, hard leather, plastic tarping, rough matte board. lol We've run everything imaginable through it. It's Tan and the foot release goes **!!BANG!!** when you move it, LOL. I'm not traumatized by this machine but I did see a person (who was barrowing it) run the whole side of their pointer finger through it. Sad state of affairs. I perfer to hand sew myself, but not because I'm afraid. I do it because I seem to not be abl!
e to get control of the thing. it's like a wild mustang or something, one spur(push of the peddle) and it goes a million miles a minute, sucking the fabric through with a "chug-chug-chug" noise that's as loud as a vacuume. LOL I hand sew because if I used the machine I would have a mass of fabric sewn together in an incomprehensible pile of straight lines and bunches, with the occassional rip where I tried to wrestle the fabric away fromt he machine.



---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 04:23:02 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <ICG-L@lists.best.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ranting against fashion idiots
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:08:01 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Okay, okay, that's it, I've had enough...

In a recent TV current affairs show on spring fashion, the designer
applauded hats as a great way to finish off an outfit and look smart. No
&*%$#!! mention of why one wears a hat: protection!

They are all very delighted with thier chic choices of basic black or basic
white. Boring says me, someone ought to buy 'em a box of crayons - a big
box with lotsa colours.

And what the hell is this with women's trousers? They are being made with
flat-fall fronts, you know, the type of button-up flap used mostly in the
17th & 18th centuries and very convenient when you have male plumbing.
Note, MALE plumbing.

Sheesh!

Okay, got it out of my system. See yas.

-C.
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:44:22 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
References: <19990912213746Z70859-19275+35@smtp1.telusplanet.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Angela Gottfred wrote:
> 
> -Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
> 
>  "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> wrote:
> >...I would suggest that you look
> at a very simple answer - *strapt* is after all a form of *strapped* and it
> might well mean that they were *strapped together in a bundle*. <
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm pretty confident that it's not the
> meaning, because of my experience with many other inventory lists for the
> HBC. It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an
> inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts (and
> no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6
> "check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped" shirts,
> 6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts.
> Thanks, too, for the contact information on Gail Cariou--I'll forward my
> question to her.
> 
> Your obliged & obedient servant,
> Angela Gottfred
> agottfre@telusplanet.net
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
Just a thought but I can't think of an explanation either. Does the
strapping refer to the reinforcing shoulder bands that are starting to
be used around the late 18thc perhaps they were also called straps?

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 06:04:41 1999
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-Poster: Su Carter <scarter@widomaker.com>

Angela Gottfred said:

Can someone help me untangle this one? On a list of English trading
goods sent to the Hudson's Bay Company's Cumberland House post in 1777
(Rich 1:362-363), I found the following items of clothing: "Shirts white
strapt/Shirts check strapt" For the same post in 1778, there are "Shirts
cotton striped/Shirts white Strapt/Shirts check Plain" 
In both lists, the "white strapt" shirts are the most common. I haven't
a clue what they are, though. I've seen shirts and other items of
clothing on many inventory lists for the 1774-1821 period and most of
them make sense, but this has me stumped. The editor of another journal
of an HBC post c. 1790 interpreted "Shirts SS" as "shoulder strap"
shirts, which I'd never heard of. (I figured it probably meant swanskin
shirts--which I'd seen elsewhere--until now.) Any suggestions are
welcome.
-----------------------------------
Angela,

I've been mulling this one over. I'm certainly no expert on shirts but I
do know that the extra piece set on the shoulder line shows up somewhere
in the 18c. I'd call it a strap but would they? I've checked
_Workwoman's Guide_ (1838) and she certainly does. That reminded me of
_Instructions for Cutting out Apparel for the Poor_ (1789) and there
they are again. I'm under the impression they're being used in the 1770s
in the colonies but I'll ask around.

My hunch is that you're looking at a transition period between strapt
and not, where some people (younger? more up-to-date?) assume them and
others (older? more traditional?) don't. If you can check earlier
inventories it might be interesting to see how early the 'strapt' shows
up. Or, does it disappear later? Or is it a French/English difference?
Maybe the French don't use them or always did. 

Good hunting,
Su
_
Su Carter
scarter@widomaker.com
Williamsburg, Virginia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 06:36:43 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:50:07 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ranting against fashion idiots
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/13/1999 5:25:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

<< And what the hell is this with women's trousers? They are being made with
 flat-fall fronts, you know, the type of button-up flap used mostly in the
 17th & 18th centuries and very convenient when you have male plumbing.
 Note, MALE plumbing.
  >>

Now I'm miffed! Back after I finished working on "Interview with the Vamp." I 
adapted some patterns for sale in a friends custom design shop. Pants & 
jodhpurs for women with half fall fronts! Not one sold. I gave them to my 
cousins for Christmas. One lives in London & one in Geneva. They get raves 
about them all the time, so I'm told, but over here on this side of the 
pond....couldn't sell 'em!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:38:42 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: uniquely you
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



What Margo said. I got mine a couple of years ago from Joann Fabrics for $99. 
The sale price might have gone up since then, but it's definitely less than 
$200. And the customer service is very good -- obviously those things don't 
fit every body exactly, and they will tell you how to pad yours (they're 
skinny) to get the right shape , if you call.

Gail Finke
still working on padding mine 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:39:17 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: zoot suit pants
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Cheryl:

Wow, someone who knows how to do this!

My husband needs some "zootish" (how's that for a word) pants for 
mid-October. He has some wide-topped pegged pants from a store, but they are 
not good enough. I was thinking of using the Simplicity pattern to make him 
some (the jacket is just beyond me; that's what I was trying to say in my 
pattern review -- it definitely needs all the things you said). My question 
is . . . I have never made anything for a man that wasn't medieval, and I've 
never sewn trousers at all. I have done all kinds of tricky shapes and 
gussets, drafted myself, for medieval clothes -- but I am sort of cowed by a 
men's commercial pattern (with a zipper!) that I might have to alter. This 
will definitely be a costume, but it needs to look pretty "real" to people 
who are used to seeing real suit pants, and it will be seen close up. Anyway, 
are men's pants difficult for someone who can follow a pattern? Or are they 
hard?

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:44:05 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:00:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costumer's boring clothes and red hair
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Gee... I thought all costumers had flamboyant
wardrobes!  I had to go out and buy jeans and t-shirts
after a co-worker suggested I "tone down" my wardrobe
a bit... lots of poet shirts and princess dresses...
all made by me, of course. ;-)

> 
Hmmmmmm... I think I missed the beginning of the "red"
conversation... I have had red "hair from a bottle"
since I was 13... different shades and intensities...
I am naturally blonde and I found that being young in
the professional world and female, the blonde didn't
help me at all... so, I died my hair... (I'm the
manager of an accounts receivable department at the
age of 21)... I burn like all heck... 15 minutes and I
am in pain for a week!  I once got 2nd degree burns
from falling asleep on the beach and was ill
forever... thus, I wear hats... 

Sarah


> As for red hair, mine is a natural golden blonde. 
> Perfectly straight and thick.  I died it red a few
> months ago, but have decided to go back to being a
> blonde.  I, too, am very pale with slate blue eyes,
> but feel I pulled off the red fairly well.  I am
> just bored and would like to be blonde again. 
> Incidentally, I rarely burn, even with tan magnifier
> at the beach.  Weird, I know.
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:50:16 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costumers dress/red hair
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> absolutely nothing! Red hair simply does not go with
> wine, plum, or fuchsia - some of my favorite colors!
> So while red hair is in I'm trying desperately to
> get rid of mine. :) 
> 

Oh, I must disagree here... I wear more wine and plum
colours than any others save black... though my hair
is not the "strawberry blonde" that seems so
popular... more of a very dark coppery colour.

Sarah

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:03:48 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: zoot suit pants
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 6:55:07 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<<  Anyway, 
 are men's pants difficult for someone who can follow a pattern? Or are they 
 hard? >>
My suggestion is that you consult the Vogue, Simplicity, Butterick, etc.  
guides to men's tailoring.  Step by step details on how to do men's flys 
(flies?).  Thats definitely the tricky part.  Remember that in the 40's you 
could still find button flies as well as zippers.  So you have a choice of 
closures.  I have found that the tailoring books usually answer any questions 
that I might have.  Important to use good strong belting in the waistband, 
metal trouser zipper in the fly if that's how you're going.  Hand baste 
zipper before machine.  Be careful matching your stripes into chevrons at 
inseam, if you're using pinstripes.  Suspender buttons, not clip ons, for 
authenticity.  Good luck!  Cheryl
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:10:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I think I can understand this... I use and old
industrial sewing machine because I have found I have
far less trouble with it than I do with my brand new
singer... it just handles the materials I work with
better (I use very heavy materials most of the
time)... I have sewn my finger several times,
though... It's amazing what those machines can do!  I
will say that every time I have done this it was due
to my lack of attention... I tend to carry on
conversations while I sew and I like to make eye
contact when I talk, so I tend not to be looking at my
material... (*bad Sarah.... bad, bad*)... All in all I
think if you are careful, you aren't very likely to
hurt yourself... and it saves *tons* of time... of
course, if you are going for the complete authenticity
thing, please by all means, keep hand sewing... I
think people who have the patience to hand sew things
are wonderful... I for one am not that person!

Sarah

--- Vince Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
> 
> Had to add my story to the list of those who prefer
> handsewing.
> Until very recently I used to sew everything by hand
> because I was flat out
> terrified of sewing machines.
> As a girl during WWII my mother worked in a factory,
> sewing uniform pants
> for the troops. When I was growing up she told me
> the most gory stories
> about how she would try to sew so fast she'd sew
> straight through her
> finger, pause, take her little pair of pliers, pull
> the needle out of her
> finger, re-insert it into the machine and go back to
> work!
> It's a wonder I ever managed to pick up a needle of
> any sort!
> 
> Kerrie, the hopelessly traumatised. ;-D
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:57:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:13:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Thank you all for your advice!  I shall try... my
biggest problem has always been that my corsets trim a
good 7 or 8 inches off of my bust, which is tough to
achieve by one's self... I do like the door handle
approach as well as the others.  Thanks bunches!

Sarah



> 
> > > This brings up a good question... I have a great
> > > corset that I would *love* to wear more often,
> but the
> > > only one around to help me lace it is my
> boyfriend who
> > > won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it
> by
> > > yourself?
> 
> my corsets are all 17th/18th century... one i've
> made to lace in front; for 
> those that lace in back i've bought satin ribbon 15
> ft long so that i can 
> easily pull them over my head. however, there's a
> better method, and i 
> could have thought of it earlier as that is similar
> how i put on my bras: i 
> put it on backwards, the shoulder straps un-tied,
> and thread the laces 
> through the holes with a large blunt needle. then i
> turn the corset round 
> and pull the straps tight reaching behind me...
> well, i guess that latter 
> part won't work in a couple year's time anymore...
> being laced in by 
> someone else certainly achieves a closer fit most of
> the time.
> at least i know that front-lacing cosets existed in
> the 18th-20th century.
> 
> salut,
> pompadour
> 
> 
> 
> Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
> His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks
> (Mrs)
> http://www.marquise.de           
> webmaster@marquise.de 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 08:17:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:27:10 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: First Elizabethan
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Gothic Splendour <mercury@eagle.ca>
>
>I'm putting on a fashion show at a local theatre with a "fashions through
>the last millenium" theme.  I have a broad range of periods represented but
>would like to add an Elizabethan.<...>  I'd like this dress to be fairly
>authentic, I'm not
>entering it in any competitions but I don't like doing all of the work to
>have something that is totally off target.

Though I think your concerns about color choices have been addressed, I
would like to respectfully suggest some other things you might want to do
if you'd like this to be fairly authentic.  I don't have the pattern
(because I make my own), but I looked it up on the Simplicity website
because I remembered seeing it and wondering where they got the style.  It
is something of a mixture, with large flared sleeves from early in the
century and a skirt gathered/pleated at the top from later in the century
and a neckline from the next century.  If you'd like to do a style from,
say, the 1540s, you could use the sleeves (though the undersleeves need to
be bigger--check out some of the early portraits of Elizabeth as princess).
If you'd like to do, say 1575, you could use the skirt (adding a bum roll
would help) but would need to make the sleeves in a different style.
Recent discussions have touched on several good options.  For just about
any time in the 16th century, the neckline should be square, not round, and
fairly low.

If you're doing all this, and you're determined about authenticity, you
might as well reshape the bodice (which is probably patterned to be worn
over a bra) so that it's flat in front and bone it so you get the proper
shape.

I hope this doesn't sound like the "authenticity police."  This is my
favorite period!  Feel free to email me if you'd like more specifics.

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 08:31:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:42:50 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Estate Buying
To: costumedc@onelist.com, h-costume@indra.com, vintage@indra.com
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Dear All,

The Washington Post has an interesting 3 page ad in today's edition. "Buying 
-- 6 Days Only -- Instant Cash for All" and then a list of desired items:

Jewelry, watches, coins & precious metals, gem stones, war relics, historical 
documents, stocks & bonds, sterling & silver, guns, old toys, lady's items 
and more".

Big sections on clothes and jewelry.

Anybody in the Washington DC area that wants to sell historic fashion items 
might want to check it out.

To the list: have you seen this kind of ad in your area?

Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 08:39:52 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Helpful Pets
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>




        I have three ferrets, and I do not recommend them as "helpful"
costuming pets.  They are far to fond of tunneling around in the fabric.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990912.235154.-435891.1.seamstrix@juno.com> <008201befdad$38ebce60$e8973018@pbc.adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costumer's boring clothes and red hair
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:03:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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  >Although I rarely sew for myself (always too busy with other people's =
projects), I will make an attempt to spend some time >building a new, =
more exciting wardrobe.  I am actually starting to get excited about =
this idea. =20

  Erica,

  You poor dear, if you ever come to Virginia, we'll go shopping at the =
thrift and vintage stores.  I blend a lot of historic silhouette's with =
modern clothes and come up with whole new looks.  You can add a drop =
waist here or there, a little of Dior's New Look, what ever suits you.  =
I have two sisters in Bradenton Florida, one is a dresser.  Where do you =
live? She too, loves to hit the thrift stores and change her "looks". =
Last time I saw her she was mixing Victorian with modern clothing.  My =
other sister is always dressed up and matched to a tee.  My son recently =
went to visit my sisters and came back with a "new look".  They took him =
shopping all the time.  I guess being able to "make do" with what you =
have comes naturally to us.  I have four sisters and we swapped clothes =
all the time.  So it looked like we had a lot of clothes, but we really =
didn't.  Now, I am a clothes horse, with two bulging closets. I never =
get rid of anything.  I have one black dress that I can create twenty =
different looks with. =20

  It is hard when your creativity gets stale.  Watch "Style" cable =
channel and their old runway shows.  I pick up bits and pieces of =
fashion ideas from them.  I have heard that a lot of people living in =
Florida have fashion problems because of the year round warm weather.  =
Think about this... I love to watch the "Golden Girls" reruns.  Not that =
the show was that great, but the costume designer did a great job of =
creating the four different styles for four women in a Florida =
environment.  The same is true for the show "Designing Women" set in =
Atlanta, another warm city. =20

  Personal style changes as you change.  How you feel about yourself is =
reflected in fashion from the clothes you wear, to your home, and  your =
car.  Compare the style of clothes you wore as a teenager to your =
present style.  Think about you felt about yourself at each time.  We =
all float back and forth from being conservative to being bold in =
fashion. =20

  A pet peeve of mine is to see the big name designers on television.  =
Their look is so depressing.  They create these wonderful designs but =
the designers seem to all dress in black jackets.  Gee, if you create a =
new look for the world have confidence enough to wear some of it.=20

  If any of you are interested, there is a new email list on onelist =
called RUNWAY.  It is run by a reporter who is in NYC this week for =
fashion week.   He is reporting to the list all day long about what he =
is seeing on the runways.  All you need to do is go to www.onelist.com =
and sign up to the RUNWAY list.  I read his first report this morning, =
it is pretty good.=20

  There is also another wonderful list at onelist called Wearableart.  =
The lady who runs this keeps up with current fashion and places articles =
and fashion links on the list.  She also scans newspapers and magazines, =
and gives trend reports.  There is not a whole lot of talk about =
wearable art but this sector of our industry is the cutting edge.  So =
they keep up with all the latest fashions.  =20

  Catch you all later... Penny
  *********************************
  Deadline for the Online Costume Ball is Sept. 21, =
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm




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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>
  <DIV>&gt;Although I rarely sew for myself (always too busy with other =
people's=20
  projects), I will make an attempt to spend some time &gt;building a =
new, more=20
  exciting wardrobe.&nbsp; I am actually starting to get excited about =
this=20
  idea.&nbsp; </DIV></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>You poor dear, if you ever come to Virginia, we'll =
go=20
  shopping at the thrift and vintage stores.&nbsp; I blend a lot of =
historic=20
  silhouette's with modern clothes and come up with whole new =
looks.&nbsp; You=20
  can add a drop waist here or there, a little of Dior's New Look, what =
ever=20
  suits you.&nbsp; I have&nbsp;two sisters in Bradenton =
Florida,&nbsp;one is a=20
  dresser.&nbsp; Where do you live?&nbsp;She too, loves to hit the =
thrift stores=20
  and change her "looks". Last time I saw her she was mixing Victorian =
with=20
  modern clothing.&nbsp; My other sister is always dressed up and =
matched to a=20
  tee.&nbsp; My son recently went to visit my sisters and came back with =

  a&nbsp;"new look".&nbsp; They took him shopping all the time.&nbsp; I =
guess=20
  being able to "make do" with what you have comes naturally to =
us.&nbsp; I have=20
  four sisters and we swapped clothes all the time.&nbsp; So it looked =
like we=20
  had a lot of clothes, but we really didn't.&nbsp; Now, I am a clothes =
horse,=20
  with two bulging closets.&nbsp;I never get rid of anything.&nbsp; I =
have one=20
  black dress that I can create twenty different looks with.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>It is hard when your creativity gets stale.&nbsp; =
Watch=20
  "Style" cable channel and their old runway shows.&nbsp; I pick up bits =
and=20
  pieces of fashion ideas from them.&nbsp; I have heard that a lot of =
people=20
  living in Florida have fashion problems because of the year round warm =

  weather.&nbsp; Think about this... I love to watch the "Golden Girls"=20
  reruns.&nbsp; Not that the show was that great, but the costume =
designer did a=20
  great job of&nbsp;creating the four different styles for four women in =
a=20
  Florida environment.&nbsp; The same is true for the show "Designing =
Women" set=20
  in Atlanta, another warm city.&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Personal style changes as you =
change.&nbsp;&nbsp;How you=20
  feel about yourself&nbsp;is reflected in fashion from the clothes you =
wear, to=20
  your home, and&nbsp; your car.&nbsp;&nbsp;Compare the style of clothes =
you=20
  wore as a teenager to your present style.&nbsp; Think about you felt =
about=20
  yourself at each time.&nbsp; We all float back and forth from being=20
  conservative to being bold in fashion.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>A pet peeve of mine is to see the big name =
designers on=20
  television.&nbsp; Their look is so depressing.&nbsp; They create these =

  wonderful designs but the designers seem to all dress in black =
jackets.&nbsp;=20
  Gee, if you create a new look for the world have confidence enough to =
wear=20
  some of it.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>If any of you are interested, there is a new email =
list on=20
  onelist called RUNWAY.&nbsp; It is run by a reporter who is in NYC =
this week=20
  for fashion week.&nbsp;&nbsp; He is reporting to the list all day long =

  about&nbsp;what&nbsp;he is seeing on the runways.&nbsp; All you need =
to do is=20
  go to <A href=3D"http://www.onelist.com">www.onelist.com</A> and sign =
up to the=20
  RUNWAY list.&nbsp; I&nbsp;read his first report this morning, it is =
pretty=20
  good.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>There is also another wonderful list at onelist =
called=20
  Wearableart.&nbsp; The lady who runs this keeps up with current =
fashion and=20
  places articles and fashion links on the list.&nbsp; She also scans =
newspapers=20
  and magazines, and gives trend reports.&nbsp; There is not a whole lot =
of talk=20
  about wearable art but&nbsp;this sector of our industry&nbsp;is the =
cutting=20
  edge.&nbsp; So they keep up with all the latest fashions.=20
  &nbsp;</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Catch you all later... Penny</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>*********************************</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Deadline for the Online Costume Ball is Sept. 21, =
<A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm">http://=
www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm</A></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 08:58:53 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: ICG-L@lists.best.com, h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:55:08 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ranting against fashion idiots
Message-ID: <19990913.090428.-312811.0.seamstrix@juno.com>
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well, I don't know about fashion idiots, but I did find something for
sale at Marshall Field's (big, expensive department store in Chicago,
like Harrod's) that I never thought I would see. You know how they say
that all fashion will come back at some point? There were a few styles
that I thought were long gone into the Middle Ages. Wrong. I found an
early medieval hood on sale in the juniors department. It had a hood and
attached capelet, no liripipe. I almost burst out laughing. It was for
sale right along with all the trendy teeny-bopper clothing. Was this a
fluke or has medieval really come back as a fashion influence with teens?

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 09:26:39 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Medieval Teens
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


Yes, it really has come back... I have been attacked
by my three younger sisters who are still in high
school begging me to make them "ren" clothes for
school...  Corsets, bodices, pouffy sleeves, slashed
sleeves... they love it!  Of course, it still looks a
little silly with the "Kool-Aid hair" that seems to be
sticking around among the high schoolers...

Sarah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 09:50:33 1999
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990913144230.4174.rocketmail@web805.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Teens
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:01:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BEFDD7.4AAE85A0
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<<Yes, it really has come back... I have been attacked
by my three younger sisters who are still in high
school begging me to make them "ren" clothes for
school...  Corsets, bodices, pouffy sleeves, slashed
sleeves... they love it!  >>

I agree.  But it's not just "ren" clothes.  You should see the prom =
orders I get...Titanic, Elizabethan, Restoration and of course, =
Renaissance.  Not accurate, but having that flair.  If you can find an =
older simplicity catalog, you can see what they pushed for prom....some =
were actually "costumes".  I don't know what they wear at school, but =
with all these historical movies (Titanic, Ever After, Shakespeare in =
Love, etc.), there is definitely a sudden interest in historical attire. =
=20

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;Yes, it really has come back... I have been=20
attacked<BR>by my three younger sisters who are still in high<BR>school =
begging=20
me to make them "ren" clothes for<BR>school...&nbsp; Corsets, bodices, =
pouffy=20
sleeves, slashed<BR>sleeves... they love it!&nbsp; &gt;&gt;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I agree.&nbsp; But it's not just "ren" clothes.&nbsp; You should =
see the=20
prom orders I get...Titanic, Elizabethan, Restoration and of course,=20
Renaissance.&nbsp; Not accurate, but having that flair.&nbsp; If you can =
find an=20
older simplicity catalog, you can see what they pushed for prom....some =
were=20
actually "costumes".&nbsp; I don't know what they wear at school, but =
with all=20
these historical movies (Titanic, Ever After, Shakespeare in Love, =
etc.), there=20
is definitely a sudden interest in historical attire.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 10:12:33 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re:what costumers wear/was boring clothes
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:26:26 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Okay, I'm going to date myself here terribly, but what exactly is an
"Ex-raver cyberpunk"?
(I try to keep up with these things, I really do, but this one escapes me)

I have become horribly boring clotheswise since getting married and having
kids.  Plus I hate anything that is "restricting" like tight jeans or
shorts, etc.  I mostly wear jeans, sweats, etc. in the cold months and in
the summer, shorts, tank tops or longer summer dresses.  When I was younger
I spent considerable amounts on clothes, but now I'm lucky I buy clothes
once a year, and then its the cheap stuff at Target or Wal-Mart.  None of
that mall stuff.....I have other things I would rather spend my money on ;)
Since I work at home, I don't have to worry about dressing up in a monkey
suit every day to go to the office (thank God) and I absolutely detest
pantyhose.  I also hate this recent rash of "polyester" that is in all the
stores.  It makes me cringe to even look at it, let alone touch it.  So,
basically I go for comfort rather than style.


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 10:22:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:36:12 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
> -- properly felt was made from unspun wool.

I suspect that fulled wool was in period long before the 14th century.  I'll
try to remember to ask the fulling expert in our Barony.

>       Kristin--So gabardine is a heavily fulled wool?  I don't spin and
> don't know nearly enough about textiles.  I appreciate every bit of help I
> get to learn...thank you in advance. Carol

Gabardine is not a fulled wool but a very fine weave.  My dictionary says that
it is a worsted cotton, wool, or rayon twill cloth.  Don't know what they might
have called it in the 14th century but twill weaves are certainly appropriate
for that time.  Very appropriate in fact.


>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:37:38 -0700
From: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
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-Poster: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>

My hair is naturally red which is now going grey.  Have to decide
about dying (hair) soon.  I have very pale skin and grey/blue eyes. 
My clothing is not only boring, it is pathetic.  Sigh.

Morgan Crawford of Shrewsbury,
aka Marilyn Warren
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:24:36 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I'm thinking of a combination of crimson & dark aubergine or plum with
>silver accents. 

Wow!  True Elizabethan color  audacity!  Sound beautiful. 

  Was there
>any sort of rule, sleeves match underskirt or bodice matches underskirt...?

My research has showed that the bodice almost always matches the overskirt.
the two were considered to be one garment, even when constructed seperately.
The sleeves can mach the bodice, the underskirt, or be a completely
unrelated third color/fabric, because they were considered to be a different
garment.  .  

>Would a lady have worn a crimson dress?  

Yes, of course.  

>Would these colours look strange with cream added in somewhere - maybe the
>sleeves?

Cream would be gorgeous.  

  I read that satin is a good choice for the overskirt, would that
>be ok with a brocade underskirt?

Elizabethan satins tended to be heavier, stiffer, and less shiny than the
stuff we have today.  Silk bridal satin is perfect if you can afford it, but
I recently saw some all-polester stuff at Jo-anne's that was very, very,
close.  
>


Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:26:30 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Rabid sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:40:26 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

Oh yes, machine running amok - I learned not to lean at all forward when
that happens, not even to pull out the curtains that got sucked in . . . try
picking out a seam that has your t-shirt in it, while you're wearing it.
Not good.

Hand sewing is so much more peaceful, and it's great to take along to
camping events to keep busy.  Sitting with a group who are weaving and
spinning and sewing is a great experience.

As long as my tunic doesn't get sucked into the spinning wheel, of course.

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Gia Gavino-Gattshall <ggavino@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 12, 1999 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question


>
>-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
>
>Hi!
>
>I have the same problem.  When I sew by machine, I tend to go really really
>fast and then have to spend time using my seam ripper...I've been doing
alot
>more sewing by hand and actually *love* it!  Less time with the seam
ripper,
<snip>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:37:11 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:51:37 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

One, my mother's, went wild on me (sucked in the curtains, my t shirt in
addition to the material I was working on.  Sheesh) and the tension was
destroyed after that.  She bought a wonderful older machine that I am
forbidden to touch.  The second was a thrift store find, a portable Brother,
that sewed for about two minutes, went THUNK and managed to only sew two
stitches before breaking the thread.  The sewing machine repairman said a
little plastic piece broke.  The cost was horrendous, so I bought a
reconditioned black Singer straight sew, waited for about 6 months until I
could get a decent sewing machine cabinet to put it in (and the warranty
expired in that time).  I found a wonderful cabinet, with an old singer
straight sew in it (bonus).  Brought it home, switched the machines (the
bonus machine looked like it had never been cleaned since it was bought).
The first Singer did exactly the same thing as the Brother.  Thunk, sews two
stitches, breaks the thread.

The bonus machine won't run at all.  By the time I got around to trying it,
I preferred handsewing so much that I refuse to put out any more money to
see what is wrong with it.

Zelda


-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 10, 1999 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question


>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>->I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last
>year.
>
>   OH dear! How did that happen?
>
<snip>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/1999 6:19:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<< My red hair comes from a bottle, but I can claim my gray hairs came from
 taking too many historic costume classes and five hour exams!!!! LOL.
 Maybe, Mela's red hair came from teaching historic costume.  No... Mela was
 not my professor, just a wonderful person I met on this list. >>

Oh man, this is an interesting digression. I too, am a redhead! Shall we take 
a count?  

My red hair is from the same source as Penny's, and for the same reason.... 
But I'm still sensing a trend here.  Red hair (Natural or otherwise), passion 
for costuming, hmmm....

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:40:23 1999
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-Poster: Klynscumpy@aol.com

Okay had to respond...another red head here too! And I wear orange all the 
time, and all those odd colors of green that no one else can wear. Mine is 
natural but now enhanced, and oddly I started out with brown eyes but they 
now look a lot more green in my almost middle years. 

I was always struck by all the photographs of Edith Head, always wearing her 
little black (or dark suit) and white blouse, with her hair always pulled 
away from her face, very business-like and practical. I understand why, now. 
Sometines working with color and form so much just tuckers a person out, 
especially when it comes to figuring out something for oneself. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:42:14 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:57:20 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

I have problems with thimbles, too.  If I don't take a long break from
sewing, usually a callous builds up and I can sew through 4 layers of heavy
cotton without a thimble, but until then, OW!

Thanks for the advice - I'll be applying some of it very soon.  There's a
pair of "Norse" pants that need finishing soon.

Thank you,
Zelda

-----Original Message-----
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 10, 1999 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question


>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>The Rogue wrote:
>>
><snip>
>> I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last
>> year.
>> Even on of the indestructible black Singer straight sew models.  Now I
>> handsew everything, and found that I really like handsewing much more
>> than working with a machine.  This works well with the 20th century
>> Norse costuming I've been doing, but the thought of doing later period
>> clothing worries me.  Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
>> doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in
>> an authentic manner (if I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun
>> with it!!) or materials or methods to avoid.
>
>Well, since I didn't even *have* a sewing machine for the first 6 years
>I was sewing I think I can answer at least part of this! <grin>  I've
>sewn everything from 70's peasant blouses to prairie bonnets to full
>length gowns by hand with no problems (except for thread knotting up on
>me!).  I always use quilting or button thread for handsewing.  I run out
>about a yard and a half, thread it through the needle, double it and
>knot it and if the thread gives me too much trouble I *wax* it (amazing
>what that can do!).  I either fold my seam over and under (so the cut
>edge is covered and sew down the middle of that or I sew a shirt tail
>hem all the way around and then sew the appropriate seams together.  I
>tend to take four - five stitches at a time and I use the thinnest
>needles I can find.  I never, ever use a thimble (which shocked the heck
>out of my grandmothers) but that's because I've yet to find one that
>feels comfortable at *all* (conventional, ring, leather, quilters etc).
>I often do garments completely by hand if time allows (although for
>theatrical sewing I tend to go with the machine for times sake and if
>I'm pressed on my own garments will sew the interior seams by machine
>and just do the finishing by hand).  If you are sewing through a number
>of thickness' of fabric (ex a corset) you may find it easier to use a
>good thimble and bring the needle through and then back one stitch at a
>time.  Of course, the closer and more even the stitches the better.  I
>have used a leather needle on a garment that had one layer of canvas and
>two of cloth because I got tired of bending needles.  The biggest thing
>is to match your needle and thread to the garment material.  If you
>haven't already, you might look into picking up a set of 'craft
>needles'.  They generally contain two curved needles and a glovers
>needle, all of which I've found helpful while handsewing.  My best
>advice is, if it doesn't work the first time...try switching needle or
>thread or both.  Enjoy.  BTW I'm curious...how exactly are you breaking
>the machines?
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:52:13 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: "historic costuming" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:07:21 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello;

Another post!  I guess I'm not a lurker anymore!

But still learning, though.  I'm working on a pair of pants (first ever pair
I've made) and the *fly* area closure has me stumped.  I want these to be as
authentic as possible.  My fiancée re-enacts a Scandinavian Viking/
Virangian of the late 10th century or very early 11th.  Would buttons be
appropriate, or would another type of closure be more appropriate?  Would
there be a triangular flap inset somehow?  How about a wide (3 to 4 inches)
waistband with ties?

Would there have been any embellishment on the pants?

Thank you,
Zelda


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003001befd88$684b56a0$b747fea9@gunsafes>
Subject: Re: H-COST: traumatized stories
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 18:04:11 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Back in the dawn of time when I first started studying; the whole of the
first three weeks was devoted to machine practise; We were given pieces of
paper like the old fashioned shiny toilet paper which had been printed with
several lines of dots in gradually more intricate patterns; At the end of
each day we had to hand them in ; They were closely inspected, any trace of
blood they all had to be redone. You soon learnt not to put your fingers
anywhere near the nasty bit.
To make matters worse us the foreigners in the class were expected to learn
Italian at the same time , shouting out our verbs and vocabulary over the
din of thirty odd machines. I cant remember much of the language now but
still shout for no apparent reason.
However it was the big unguarded leather skiving machines with their hug
cutting discs that always put the wind up me ; always ready to pull anything
and everything into their dark innards and shred them. I soon became expert
at hand skiving, rather than wake up at nights sweating.
Dave

+++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 >
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

> One of my friends accidentally sewed a teddy bear head to her thumb in 7th
> grade home-ec.  She has been terrified of sewing machines ever since and
> just recently commented that she should get over it. She is about 35 years
> old now.  These things happen.
>   Michelle


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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:18:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Well, I guess I'll have to chime in on this one too.....red hair also, from
a bottle, BUT I have a long, illustrious family history of redheads, lots of
aunts and uncles with red hair, I just happened to inherit plain old brown
with red highlights.  Fortunately, I have the coloring for it and most
people think it is my normal color. I never liked the color of my hair and
have colored it various colors probably since I was about 18.  I've tried
every color there is (except for blue, pink, green, etc.) and have finally
settled on red which I've had for the last 10 years.

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:15:21 1999
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Message-ID: <1b75acde.250e8e19@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:27:53 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/12/1999 2:38:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
agottfre@telusplanet.net writes:

<< It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an 
 inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts (and 
 no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6 
 "check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped" shirts, 
 6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts.  >>

Given the context, I'd venture a guess it's referring to stripes of some sort 
in the fabric. The other references being "check" and "plain" etc.

Let us know when you solve the mystery.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If to do were as easy as to know what were good to do,
chapels had been churches, 
and poor men's cottages princes' palaces."
The Merchant of Venice, I, ii - William Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:17:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:33:45 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

I do a combination of boring/yuppie/flamboyant.  Depends on the day.  I either
shop at thrift stores or Ross.  I used to shop almost exclusively at
Nordstrom.  Nice store if you can justify the expense.  I go to Ross and buy
lots of $10 dresses for spring.  Stuff I can just throw on and run to work in
in the spring.  In the winter I wear to work a lot of pants and turtlenecks.
I have gotten so bored with my clothes it's awful.  And finding clothes that
fit the way my historical clothing fits has finally convinced me that I need
to sew my modern clothes too.

So, I am taking a small break from my activities and going to just make
clothes for the next month.  Pants that fit, a black velvet circle skirt with
bolero, some retro dresses and aprons, etc...  I do love clothes that have
flair and just got a great winter coat, black wook, with a long peplum (almost
to the knees) with a faux fur collar and cuffs.  I *love* it, it kind of has a
Guard from the Wizard of Oz flair but not as long, sort of russian influenced
I guess.  I love embroidery so have lots of clothes with embroidery (either by
me or not, I'm not particular).  I embellish by hand much of my historial
clothing and intend to start doing more of that in my modern wear.  I've
gained a bit of weight over the past couple years so I don't wear what I did
when I was younger, but that's also because I've discovered I'm more modest
these days.  I cover myself up so my skirts are mostly long and I rarely show
cleavage.

I hate to worry about what I'm going to wear, how I'm going to do my hair,
don't like fussing with makeup unless it's a special occassion.  I think this
year, I need a new makeover though.  So some of that might change.  I wear a
lot of black but discovered color and am working on incorporating more of
that.  Black hair, pale skin, green eyes, so maybe back a little kohl.  I used
to dress kind of goth-punk, lots of black with silver jewelry.  The colors
suit me well so I'm thinking of trying to find a more conservative way to do
this, not so rebellious but definitely not too conservative.

Anyhoo, it's been fascinating reading all this.  I can definitely see the
progression in my own life, as soon as I started historical costuming my
clothes horse needs went there and I've been paying almost no attention at all
to what I look like the other 90% of my life!  *LAUGH*  Pathetic actually.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:24:35 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909110445.WAA16605@net.indra.com> <37DAFF5B.99B68F22@vci.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: wool question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 18:36:58 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Just a matter of interest. Should anuyone get a chance to visit Higher Mill
; Helmshore, Rossendale, Lancashire, still has 18c fulling mill extant as a
museum :
The large bales of wool are supported on slowly rotating beams while being
thumped by huge water driven trip hammers. The whole contraption is built
over the river  and the bales are constantly wetted ;
I think but I am may be completely wrong that it was here that I was told.-
Human urine was collected from the ale houses to soak the wool in prior to
fulling and that the best came from the houses where strong ale
was drunk;
I am trying to remmeber if this is correct or it is a story that I picked up
somewhere completely different; Any ideas?
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----

>
> -Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
>
> Forgive me if this has been asked before, I'm fairly new to this list. How
is wool
> fabric fulled?
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:25:41 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:46:43 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Sounds like you are in desperate need of a Viking. They never need oiling
and  they are pretty much unjammable (I once ran over a pin and the pin bent
into a 'w' and was stuck in the throat plate).  I have had mine for years,
passed down from my mother who got an upgrade.
   Michelle

>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Hello!
>
>One, my mother's, went wild on me (sucked in the curtains, my t shirt in
>addition to the material I was working on.  Sheesh) and the tension was
>destroyed after that.  She bought a wonderful older machine that I am
>forbidden to touch.  The second was a thrift store find, a portable
Brother,
>that sewed for about two minutes, went THUNK and managed to only sew two
>stitches before breaking the thread.  The sewing machine repairman said a
>little plastic piece broke.  The cost was horrendous, so I bought a
>reconditioned black Singer straight sew, waited for about 6 months until I
>could get a decent sewing machine cabinet to put it in (and the warranty
>expired in that time).  I found a wonderful cabinet, with an old singer
>straight sew in it (bonus).  Brought it home, switched the machines (the
>bonus machine looked like it had never been cleaned since it was bought).
>The first Singer did exactly the same thing as the Brother.  Thunk, sews
two
>stitches, breaks the thread.
>
>The bonus machine won't run at all.  By the time I got around to trying it,
>I preferred handsewing so much that I refuse to put out any more money to
>see what is wrong with it.
>
>Zelda
>


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:47:13 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Do I get to play too?
I am not really a costumer - although costumes are a mojor part of my life.
I WAS a redhead.  Now I am a silver and gold head which I augment with *Just
for Men*
I wear  Levi's and often times brightly colored shirts.  I don't know what
*cleavage* has to do with how one dresses - but I don't show any!  Don't
have any!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
>Date: Mon, Sep 13, 1999, 10:18 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
>Well, I guess I'll have to chime in on this one too.....red hair also, from
>a bottle, BUT I have a long, illustrious family history of redheads, lots
of
>aunts and uncles with red hair, I just happened to inherit plain old brown
>with red highlights.  Fortunately, I have the coloring for it and most
>people think it is my normal color. I never liked the color of my hair and
>have colored it various colors probably since I was about 18.  I've tried
>every color there is (except for blue, pink, green, etc.) and have finally
>settled on red which I've had for the last 10 years.
>
>Joan Broneske
>unicorn@softcom.net
>@-->----------------
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:49:15 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: wool question
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have heard about urine being used to help in the dyeing process but not in
fulling... which does not mean it was not done.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: wool question
>Date: Mon, Sep 13, 1999, 10:36 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>Just a matter of interest. Should anuyone get a chance to visit Higher Mill
>; Helmshore, Rossendale, Lancashire, still has 18c fulling mill extant as a
>museum :
>The large bales of wool are supported on slowly rotating beams while being
>thumped by huge water driven trip hammers. The whole contraption is built
>over the river  and the bales are constantly wetted ;
>I think but I am may be completely wrong that it was here that I was told.-
>Human urine was collected from the ale houses to soak the wool in prior to
>fulling and that the best came from the houses where strong ale
>was drunk;
>I am trying to remmeber if this is correct or it is a story that I picked
up
>somewhere completely different; Any ideas?
>Dave
>L.D.Mundy
>Editor.Heritage Matters
>----- Original Message -----
>
>>
>> -Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
>>
>> Forgive me if this has been asked before, I'm fairly new to this list.
How
>is wool
>> fabric fulled?
>>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:53:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:51:16 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Boring clothes?
In-Reply-To: <v04205515b3fff9e5d116@[205.252.121.168]>
References: <199909110445.WAA16605@net.indra.com>
 <199909110445.WAA16605@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>At 10:45 PM -0600 9/10/99, owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com wrote:
>>So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

I must say that I dress casual and rather boring most of the time and my
suits are all classic.  I was brought up with the thinking that "it's
better to have a few good quality pieces than lots of cheap ones".
However, when it's "dress-up time" I like to dress with a bit more *flare*.
 I'm 5'10" and can usually carry off stuff that a lot of other people
"can't."  However, I'm a firm believer in natural fibres.

>I want to have good quality clothes that will last for years, especially
>as I'm petite and have a hard time finding clothes that fit me (why do
>they never keep size Small in stock???).

I must say "Where do you live?!"  All I ever find here are smalls.  It
seems most places carry a large stock of sizes 2 to 8 and almost nothing
for the *non-petits*.  It's the bane of my existence - well that and shoes.
 I'm a size 11 1/2 (which doesn't *really* exist) and all I ever see are
sizes 6 to 10.  Grrrr.  I wish the manufactures would realize that we come
in all shapes and sizes.

Woops!  How did I get on that soapbox. <g>

Cheers,
Danielle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:54:10 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:34:09 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for gemstone bead buttons
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I found a 16" strand of Howlite (dyed Lapis) 10mm beads (about 41 beads)
>for $6.83 per strand (If you buy more than 3, there is a proportional
>discount).  They also have a 12mm (34 beads) for $9.82. Their regular
>lapis runs from $14.95 (for 4mm) to $29.95 (for 8mm).

I think I'll preface this with the statement "however I say this I'm sure
it will come out wrong".  Hi, my name is Danielle Nunn-Weinberg and I'm a
gemmologist.  I just wanted to ask you if you realize that Howlite is a
completely different mineral from Lapis Lazuli.  

Howlite is usually dyed a variety of different colours to be used as an
inexpensive substitute for the more expensive stone it it impersinating.
Most Lapis on the market these days is dyed already.  The way to test for
dyed lapis is take a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol.  Rub it on a
non-visible portion of the stone.  If there is any blue on the swab - the
stone is dyed.  Please don't let either of these things detract from your
enjoyment of the stone, it is just meant as information.

Please forgive me if I've offended.

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, FGA, FCGmA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:54:13 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I was at a costuming workshop for 1850's work dresses this weekend, and a
woman demonstrated cartridge pleating in a way that I had never seen before.
She held two or three needles at the same time between her thumb and finger,
and stitched the multiple rows all at the same time.  When another
participant said she couldn't get the hang of it, and could she just stitch
the rows seperately, the instructor said no, that wouldn't work.  I (rather
impolitically) said of course it would, I do it all the time, she said
"Well, it might work, but it wouldn't be cartridge pleating!" and that this
was the only historically accurate way to do it.  

Now, I've been reading about, and doing, costume construction for most of my
life and I've never seen such a thing.  Does anybody have any idea where she
got this technique?  Was it really the standard method for the 1850's?  And
does anyone have any priomary evidence that it was done the usual way, one
row of stitches at a time,  in the period?

This same person, BTW,  doesn't think I should be drafting my own patterns.
She wants me to use Past Patterns or some other company's pattern, "because
that way it's historically accurate".  I find it very hard to let her know
that I know what I'm doing without sounding like I'm bragging. She knows I
teach classes in costume of the period, and she's seen my work,  but all she
does is make comments on what's different, such as the fact that I'm wearing
full stays, while she's wearing sensible stays.   I can't figure out if this
is ignorance, jealousy, oblivion, or what, and I really don't know how to
deal with the situation.  Any ideas?

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:54:21 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:56:26 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Red hair was (Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress)
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

I have red hair to.  It's mine because I paid for it! <g>  Actually my
natural hair colour is blond but, I look better in orange this way. ;)
It's strange how many people think that the red is my natural colour - I've
got that pale (in my case sallow), almost translucent Celtic skin.

>I can't believe it! Another person whose eyes turned from blue to green. 

I think it's neat that there are other people who's eyes changed colours.
Mine went from violet/purple when I was little to blue/grey when I hit
grade school.  Now they just change colour depending on what I'm wearing
and my mood.  They've been known to anything between emerald green and
silver grey, with lots of shades of blue in between.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:16:10 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:29:26 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
In-Reply-To: <003b01befe0a$734b5f00$03000004@van1282>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <003b01befe0a$734b5f00$03000004@van1282>, The Rogue 
<the_rogue@imag.net> writes
>
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Hello;
>
>Another post!  I guess I'm not a lurker anymore!
>
>But still learning, though.  I'm working on a pair of pants (first ever pair
>I've made) and the *fly* area closure has me stumped.  I want these to be as
>authentic as possible.  My fiancée re-enacts a Scandinavian Viking/
>Virangian of the late 10th century or very early 11th.  Would buttons be
>appropriate, or would another type of closure be more appropriate?  Would
>there be a triangular flap inset somehow?  How about a wide (3 to 4 inches)
>waistband with ties?
>
They don't have any kind of fly - trousers of this period are just like 
sweatpants, with a drawstring round the waist.  A fly opening is very 
late - I'm not sure when they come in, but certainly after codpieces go 
out, and the codpiece is still there in the 16th century.

>Would there have been any embellishment on the pants?
>
I don't think so.  Between the bottom of the tunic, which could be 
embroidered or edged with braid, and the top of your boots, there's not 
a whole lot showing to embellish.  If he was wearing hose and braies 
(like shorts tucked into loose stockings) the top of the hose could be 
decorated with a narrow border.

>Thank you,
>Zelda
>
You're welcome - keep posting those questions!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:19:12 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes/RED HAIR
In-Reply-To: <19990912.235154.-435891.1.seamstrix@juno.com>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

Looks like I'm going to have to "come out" as a red-head too - not
carroty, just very deep chestnut.  My skin is much more red-headed than
my hair - SPF3000, or possibly the complete Afghani throw-a-sheet-over-
your-head look!

Jean
>
>-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com
>
>Well although my parents thought that I would be a red-head, I proved my
>contrary nature a became a deep ash blonde instead. I 'assist' the
>brightness of my hair with some lighter blonde color. But I haven't
>changed the essential color of my hair, I'm just too darn pale to go with
>any other shade (pale grey-blue eyes and translucent white skin- yes, I'm
>Northern European, why do you ask?)
>
>Karen
>(SPF 3000 is my friend)
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:44:12 -0600 (MDT)
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From: melanies@skylightopera.com
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: H-COST: First Elizabethan (ps)
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-Poster: melanies@skylightopera.com


Greetings

This is a postscript to my earlier message regarding the Simplicity 
Elizabethan pattern.  I had said that if you wished to do 1540, you 
could use the flared sleeve but forgot to mention that I have not 
seen any examples of tied-on sleeves this early, so you might wish 
to sew it in instead.

Melanie (from work!)



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:35:56 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:44:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Red hair was (Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress)
Message-ID: <19990913.114513.-232099.0.AnnetteAllen@juno.com>
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-Poster: Annette M Allen <annetteallen@juno.com>

Mmmmm.  Maybe red tones and light colored eyes are genetically
related.  (I know, way OT, but I couldn't resist...)  My hair was white
blonde as a child and people assumed my eyes were blue.  My
mother dressed me in pastels.  (Of course, this was the fifties...)

As I grew older and my hair grew darker, I insisted on blonde and 
everyone else kept calling it "strawberry blonde".  I began wearing
jewel tones and people began asking me what color my eyes are.
(I call them Hazel Grey, because they are grey when I am naked in
a cream colored bathroom with no makeup on.)  They range from 
grey to bright blue, blue, green, blue-green, and/or yellow. 
(Apparently,
they turn yellow when I am very angry, according to my husband, who
would be the most likely to know!)

I cannot use ash colors on my hair; it turns green.  I cannot use gold
colors on my hair, it turns red.  Since it is turning silver in some
areas,
I have found a blonde with silver highlights.  It looks very blonde to me
but someone said the other day: "Your hair has a lot of red in it,
doesn't
it?   AARGGHHH!

(Not that I don't like red hair, I have a grandaughter with beautiful 
strawberry blonde hair. <grin>)

-Annette

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:56:26 -0400 Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
writes:
> 
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I have red hair to.  It's mine because I paid for it! <g>  Actually 
> my
> natural hair colour is blond but, I look better in orange this way. 
> ;)
> It's strange how many people think that the red is my natural colour 
> - I've
> got that pale (in my case sallow), almost translucent Celtic skin.
> 
> >I can't believe it! Another person whose eyes turned from blue to 
> green. 
> 
> I think it's neat that there are other people who's eyes changed 
> colours.
> Mine went from violet/purple when I was little to blue/grey when I 
> hit
> grade school.  Now they just change colour depending on what I'm 
> wearing
> and my mood.  They've been known to anything between emerald green 
> and
> silver grey, with lots of shades of blue in between.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:37:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 14:54:27 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> If its the stuff I think it is that we have in the UK called Nubuck  a very
> thin sliver of real leather stuck to a polymer base and the roughes up to
> give a nap.

The folks at Dexter Shoes (excellent shoes made in Maine) report that
there are many types of "nubuck."  Some of them are entirely of leather;
clearly some, presumably cheaper by other companies, are leather-plus-other-stuff.

--
"It would make sense to do it that way" is a dangerous statement when
pursuing historical accuracy, almost as error prone as "They could do it that
way, therefore they did".           --  Margo Anderson
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:49:34 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
In-Reply-To: <8da8f59a.250c856e@aol.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Another alternative is to use bundles of thin reeds, rather like
broomstraw.  This is the kind of reed that was found in the Pfaltzgrafin's
corset shown in Arnold's Patterns of Fashion.

I've heard that it's very comfortable, very supportive, and breathes well.
I just got some broomstraw myself, and will let people know how it
actually turns out.

Drea

 On Sun, 12 Sep 1999
HighlndLss@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com
> 
> Thank you for the tip about waxing the reed for the stays, that's something 
> that I didn't think of. 
> 
> The stays that I had with the reed was good for a few years, but then the 
> cracking of the reed got to be too much of a problem trying to continually 
> replace. I have since made my stays completely from the spring steel, which, 
> because of my chest-heavy figure is really the strength that I probably 
> needed in the first place. I also found that I was more comfortable making 
> both a front and back lacing pattern. I have a tendency to shift weight a 
> lot. So having the possibility of adjusting both front and back together is 
> really helpful. I adjust the back so that the front will always come 
> completely together when laced. Then I leave the back lacing in place, and at 
> events always use the front for putting the stays on and off. This is so much 
> easier for dressing in the mornings. 
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions,
> Susan K. 
> 42nd HRH & 17th Light Dragoons
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1b75acde.250e8e19@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:04:49 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


>
> In a message dated 9/12/1999 2:38:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> agottfre@telusplanet.net writes:
>
>  It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an
>  inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts
(and
>  no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6
>  "check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped"
shirts,
>  6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts.
>

This is COMPLETE speculation, based on working-class shirts from nearly a
century and a half later.. but could it possibly refer to a shirt that was
meant to be worn with suspenders?
This guess is based on my father, who was born in Ireland in 1919, and
always referred to his suspenders as "straps".  He kept several decade old
shirts that had either a single little loop of fabric (think of the hang tab
on those yuppie oxford shirts of the 80s, but positioned lower, a bit above
mid-back) or an X in the same spot to hold the suspenders halfway up.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:50:45 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990913174348.GEDF22396.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:04:36 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the waist,  as
a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.
the display of cleavage by building workers is an important part of modern
day British culture;
No I am not Joking, however unbelievable
Dave

++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
 > I wear  Levi's and often times brightly colored shirts.  I don't know
what
> *cleavage* has to do with how one dresses - but I don't show any!  Don't
> have any!
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:53:42 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

I've never seen ANYTHING that suggested that one needed to run the needles 
all at once -- the key is to have the threads come in and out at the same 
vertical point on the fabric,  NOT at the same time!!!!

I'll look in my period construction books, but I usually do a foot of 
stitches on the upper and repeat with the lower.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:57:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 14:18:57 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Zelda wrote:
>But still learning, though.  I'm working on a pair of pants (first ever pair
>I've made) and the *fly* area closure has me stumped.  I want these to be as
>authentic as possible.  My fiancée re-enacts a Scandinavian Viking/
>Virangian of the late 10th century or very early 11th.  Would buttons be
>appropriate, or would another type of closure be more appropriate?  Would
>there be a triangular flap inset somehow?  How about a wide (3 to 4 inches)
>waistband with ties?
>
>Would there have been any embellishment on the pants?

The Skjoldehamn trousers (a little bit of which can be seen at 
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/skolde3.html ) are
drawstring
pants with a bit of trim around the bottom cuff, and about six inches up
the outside 
leg.

The Skjodehamn find (consisting of kyrtle, shirt, trousers, shoes (lost?)
and knife handle)
was discovered in 1936 in a bog on the Island of Andřya, in Veserĺlen in
northern Norway.
It may date to sometime between 1000-1210 (based on Carbon dating although
the style of his 
kyrtle would suggest a later date of 13th-14th c).  There is some debate
about whether he
was Norse or Sami and whether or not that would matter to the style of
clothing.

If you want more information there's an article on this clothing (which
SOMEone left off
his bibliography) Gjessing, G.  "Skjoldehamndrakten, En Senmiddeelaldersk
mannsdrakt" in
Viking v.2 (1938) pp.27-81.  And I'm thinking there's one in a much later
volume of Viking
as well, but I can't find the citation at the moment.  Yes, they are in
Norwegian, but you
get used to that after a while...

Marc
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 08:04 PM 09/13/1999 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the waist,  as
>a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.

In the US, we call that look "plumber's butt".  I wouldn't call it an
important part of our culture, though.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:06:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:20:28 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

Hi, I have a question that probably sounds really stupid to you gus, but I'm curious. Way back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual metal? and if so, when you guys make authentic costumes do you use actual metal for this or do you use the "silver" & "gold" thread you can buy now?  I've seen several peices in my life which had this wire type embroidery, of course all tarnished and in general in bad shape. Mostly on shoes and purses for some reason. I've read about detail work quite a bit but have never seen anything about metallic embroidery. I was just wondering what they used? was is wire of a smaller gage than beading wire (like they use for jewelry) or what? again I appologize if this is a stupid question. 

---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:08:57 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Red Satin Boots
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:16:15 -0400
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

	In the section with high button shoes, I saw red satin lace up shoes
listed in the Amazon Drygoods catalog.  Their question line phone # is
319-322-4138


	Connie Fairchild
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:15:33 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909131804.LAA20666@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:29:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> I was at a costuming workshop for 1850's work dresses this weekend, and a
> woman demonstrated cartridge pleating in a way that I had never seen
before.
> She held two or three needles at the same time between her thumb and
finger,
> and stitched the multiple rows all at the same time.  When another
> participant said she couldn't get the hang of it, and could she just
stitch
> the rows seperately, the instructor said no, that wouldn't work.  I
(rather
> impolitically) said of course it would, I do it all the time, she said
> "Well, it might work, but it wouldn't be cartridge pleating!" and that
this
> was the only historically accurate way to do it.
>

That's rediculous.  If you were looking at the finished work, without having
seen the process, how in the world would you even be able to tell if the
stitches had been made using this woman's method or individually?  Even if
she does have an authentic historical source for her methods it's doubtful
that _everyone_ always did it in *exactly* that manner.

>This same person, BTW,  doesn't think I should be drafting my own patterns.
>She wants me to use Past Patterns or some other company's pattern,
>"because
>that way it's historically accurate".  I find it very hard to let her know
>that I know what I'm doing without sounding like I'm bragging. She knows I
>teach classes in costume of the period, and she's seen my work,  but all
she
>does is make comments on what's different, such as the fact that I'm
wearing
>full stays, while she's wearing sensible stays.   I can't figure out if
this
>is ignorance, jealousy, oblivion, or what, and I really don't know how to
>deal with the situation.  Any ideas?

This may be violating my "if you can't say anything nice" policy, but, great
font of psychological wisdom that I am <g>... the poor woman sounds like a
"know it all" who feels threatened by anyone with knowledge in "HER field of
expertise".  The shame is she probably comes off sounding silly to everyone.

Dr. Kerrie Brothers (who is spending much too much time at her desk now, as
evidenced by this sudden increase in posting. ;-) )


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:25:02 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005701befafe$f059b280$22aca0d1@j9g8x8> <00a701befb17$9a02b1c0$36065cc3@herimats> <37DD47B8.4EB97482@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: UK US leather was Shoe dyeing question long whinge
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:38:58 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Yes; I think the term comes from the process actually used to give the final
appearrance, as opposed to the wire brush system used on turned leather to
produce " normal" suede.
However not being one to lose the oppurtunity to climb on to my favourite
band wagon..-
Our Us members as a whole , and especially those who work in leather would
be appalled at the cost of leather or leather products in this country, as
well as some of the amazingly awful products that we are offered.
The US has lots of cows and they are being killed and eaten in their
millions and leather is a side issue to the production of steaks and burgers
consumed in large quantities by US citizens.
In the UK many people do not eat beef at all, and to many a steak is a
special treat. As a rule our beef is produced for export and is very
expensive. With our recent  problems over mad cow disease there have been
some weeks when no animals have been slaughtered in any given week.  This of
course has led to problems with the supply of leather. Most of our large
shoemakers now have the uppers mass produced in the third world and imported
for making up ( if they say Made in Britain.) or imported completely.
Leather is also imported but it is not an economic process.
To the craftworker or costumer working on a small scale the situation is
almost unworkable. It is actually cheaper to go out and buy a brand new
leather coat, made in the Far East and sold through huge specialist Discount
houses than it would be to buy the leather to make the same thing in this
country. If you could find it that is. With the industry moving abroad , the
usual surplus going to the craftworker has dried up. What there is available
is all chrome tanned with its terrible grey-white colour on the back and cut
edges
Buying fine english produced (oak tanned; if you really want to go overboard
and wait years for delivery) leather for high quality riding boots is no
problem  when the final cost is near to 1000 pounds. Saddlers and harness
makers however  have more difficulty and cost are soaring. I know of two who
are currently travelling to the continent for supplies. For shoemaking a
pair of best leather throughsoles are now well over ten pounds.
About six or seven years ago I ordered over 300 pounds worth of green and
yellow leather from a very well known supplier (in both UK and US) What I
actually received was "skiver" (taken off the back of good leather when
thicknessing) to which a heavy almost eighth of an inch layer of a plastic
like material had been sprayed on. These day I can only imagine that it is
much worse. I know that there  is still a lot of leather that has been "sun
dried" and badly cured in the "Third world" finding its way into craft
shops.
Remember that the final use of leather has to be known before the cureing
process can commence.
When it comes to leather you US citizens are really lucky, next time you buy
some think of us poor Brits.
Dave

+++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
 >
> The folks at Dexter Shoes (excellent shoes made in Maine) report that
> there are many types of "nubuck."  Some of them are entirely of leather;
> clearly some, presumably cheaper by other companies, are
leather-plus-other-stuff.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:37:32 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:51:47 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello

I looked at the pattern - they're a bit different than the pair I worked
from.  The pair loaned to me for reference have a separate calf section that
is tighter than the upper legs - quite a bit tighter, and harder to fit.
Would that type of pants also be appropriate for the waistband/front seam
shown in your pattern?

Wonderful site!  Very helpful and informative!

Zelda
Who has added learning Norwegian to the *to do* list
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 13, 1999 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men


>
>-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
>Zelda wrote:
>>But still learning, though.  I'm working on a pair of pants (first ever
pair
<snip>?
>
>The Skjoldehamn trousers (a little bit of which can be seen at
>http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/skolde3.html ) are
>drawstring
>pants with a bit of trim around the bottom cuff, and about six inches up
>the outside
>leg.
>
>The Skjodehamn find (consisting of kyrtle, shirt, trousers, shoes (lost?)
>and knife handle)
>was discovered in 1936 in a bog on the Island of Andřya, in Veserĺlen in
>northern Norway.
>It may date to sometime between 1000-1210 (based on Carbon dating although
>the style of his
>kyrtle would suggest a later date of 13th-14th c).  There is some debate
>about whether he
>was Norse or Sami and whether or not that would matter to the style of
>clothing.
>
>If you want more information there's an article on this clothing (which
>SOMEone left off
>his bibliography) Gjessing, G.  "Skjoldehamndrakten, En Senmiddeelaldersk
>mannsdrakt" in
>Viking v.2 (1938) pp.27-81.  And I'm thinking there's one in a much later
>volume of Viking
>as well, but I can't find the citation at the moment.  Yes, they are in
>Norwegian, but you
>get used to that after a while...
>
>Marc
> _________________________________________________________________
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: metallic embroidery
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello,

I have just started looking into this, too.  So far, I have found that the
real metals were actually used, but were spun so finely that they were
usually wrapped around a linen or cotton thread so they could be worked
without constantly breaking.  How far back this method goes, I don't know
yet.  I do have a Matadors jacket from a turn of the century (1900  :)  )
costume company that is covered in metallic thread done in this manner.  I
have seen modern embroidery done on Punjabi tunics with this as well.

Personally, I use the plain DMC gold, silver or copper threads at this
point, simply due to lack of skill at this time.
Zelda


-----Original Message-----
From: Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 13, 1999 12:28 PM
Subject: H-COST: (No Subject)


>
>-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>
>Hi, I have a question that probably sounds really stupid to you gus, but
I'm curious. Way back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual
metal? and if so, when you guys make authentic costumes do you use actual
metal for this or do you use the "silver" & "gold" thread you can buy now?
I've seen several peices in my life which had this wire type embroidery, of
course all tarnished and in general in bad shape. Mostly on shoes and purses
for some reason. I've read about detail work quite a bit but have never seen
anything about metallic embroidery. I was just wondering what they used? was
is wire of a smaller gage than beading wire (like they use for jewelry) or
what? again I appologize if this is a stupid question.
>
>---
>Ginnaphure
>
>ICQ# 41340093
>
>"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the
stake."
>
>
>
>Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 14:58:38 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

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Margo Anderson wrote; ..."the early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of
sleeve " -I've never heard this term.  What is a mahoitered sleeve?

"Mahoitre" (That's with a ^ over the "i"): French term denoting large
padded shoulders. Basically comes from the extreme look of the mid
1400's - really huge shoulders on the man's doublet, fur trimmed,
pleated, think Charles VII.

About Margos' cartridge pleating dilemma: I've never heard of such a
thing, but commend someone coordinated enough to handle three needles at
once. I don't understand the logic, and would ask her to show you some
reference material supporting it (in a nice, non challenging way of
course!) But as regards to the instruction to use commercial patterns -
that seems totally contradictory. First of all, they're not made for an
individual's body, and custom fit patters would always be preferred to
"off the shelf". Secondly, most commercial patterns seem to be faulty. I
suppose that this stems from the sales part of the business, or from the
desire not to complicate a mass audience pattern with complicated
techniques or instructions. I blatantly disagree with her, and support
you in your disagreement!

Regards,

Liz Jones

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909131804.LAA20666@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:04:02 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
 .  I find it very hard to let her know
> that I know what I'm doing without sounding like I'm bragging. She knows I
> teach classes in costume of the period, and she's seen my work,  but all
she
> does is make comments on what's different, such as the fact that I'm
wearing
> full stays, while she's wearing sensible stays.   I can't figure out if
this
> is ignorance, jealousy, oblivion, or what, and I really don't know how to
> deal with the situation.  Any ideas?
>
 I dont teach anymore, partly as a result of changes to our system as
regards parttime lecturing but also for a very personal reason.
I always had difficulty because of  shyness and when called upon to seem
knowledgable had great difficulty because of self doubt.. Well to tell you
the truth I turned into somebody else , some kind of monster , a sort of
protective shield.. Knowing that there was somebody in the class that might
know something was a big frightener that would have me shaking at the knees
and on one occasion led me to real nervous sickness. After every class I
used to hide in a dark room with a pillow over my head, reliving every
moment , everyword I had said, every comment I had made and turn myself into
a quivering jelly of embarrassment. Theatre studies wasnt so bad , they were
all youngsters, you could tell em anything (ggg). Teaching Hand- shoemaking
to a class made up of supervisor/:managers from shoe factories, plus some
people that had their own shoemaking business or who worked in orthopaedic
shoe departments , was a shortlived nighmare. I finally gave up after a
friend studying teaching technique videotaped my class; I thought about
changing my name or wearing a bag on my head, but settled on Prozac.
So maybe you should just add "------scared" to your list.
Well you asked for any ideas ; this might help.
Dave

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:05:03 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
>
>From: AnnoraK@aol.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
>
>Re: Georgia's question about the Laughing Moon corset pattern -- I built my
>first corset last month using this pattern.  I made the Dore Straight Seam
>out of coutil, with an outside layer of moire.  I followed their suggestions
>
>of making a muslin and doing two test fittings.  I had to trim back the
>underarm areas about 1/2" - 3/4", but other than that, it went together
>smoothly and easily, even with feline interference.  But, then I was sorta
>paranoid about screwing the whole thing up, so did everything by the rules,
>tracing out all lines and markings and all the other stuff that I usually
>don't do with the rest of my projects.
>
>One suggestion, though -- trace out the pattern onto butcher paper, if you
>weren't planning to already.
>--
>
>Thanks Jen.
>
>One other question - has anybody made the pattern *with* the gores? I'm very
>busty, and very hourglass, so I'll have to be making that one :-)
>
>Cheers
>Georgia


Yes, I'm busty too - and hippy.  I made the gored corset at Costume College
97 in the class taught by Ms. Laughing Moon, JoAnn Bowser.  It wasn't my
first corset, but the easiest one I've ever made.

The pattern was clear and directions are complete.  JoAnn had made kits for
everyone with everything but the bones included ( a very nice touch - we
were all working with her specified materials and production went easier
for that).  She also managed to have every possible size of her pattern
available in muslin so we spent a bit of time figuring out - with her help
- exactly what size we were and with her suggesting fitting changes ("Maybe
you might want to add some extra in the gore for those extra curves").  I
highly suggest taking her class if ever you can.

I agree with the earlier poster - take the time to do EVERY step EXACTLY
the way the instructions are written.  It will save you time and money in
the long run.

LynnD
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:14:01 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> >In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the waist,  as
> >a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.
> In the US, we call that look "plumber's butt".  I wouldn't call it an
> important part of our culture, though.

Maybe it depends on what part of the US you live in because here in my neck of
the woods we call it T.V. Repairman Pants.

*GGGGG*
Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 16:13:16 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 6:09:08 PM !!!First Boot!!!, margo@directcon.net 
writes:

<< I can't figure out if this
 is ignorance, jealousy, oblivion, or what, and I really don't know how to
 deal with the situation.  Any ideas?
 
 Margo Anderson >>


My guess is none of the above....you probably make her feel threatened and 
unessential. I do not know how "they" cartridge pleated, and actually could 
rather care less.   Personally, I "know" how "I" cartridge pleat, and the 
authenticity of technique thereof is of no consequence.(or very little)   As 
long as what I have created matches what "they" created...why fuss about 
using 2,3,27000 needles at a time.  I think this lady is a bit on the bonkers 
side, but I don't know her.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:08:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:22:31 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: metallic embroidery
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Metallic thread embroidery is quite common in India - even today.  I was in
a factory in south India where they produced this thread.  Gold or silver is
turned into a very thin wire which is wrapped around a cotton or silk thread
core.  This is known as *zari*.
There are 3 basic types: Gold, silver, and silver which has been gilded to
look like gold.  And of course they are valued accordingly.  
There is also a technique knows as *badla* this is actual gold, silver or
gilt wire used for embroidery - i.e. it is not wapped around a core and of
course is more expensive.
Metallic embroidery is used mostly for wedding sarees these days.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: metallic embroidery
>Date: Mon, Sep 13, 1999, 12:59 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Hello,
>
>I have just started looking into this, too.  So far, I have found that the
>real metals were actually used, but were spun so finely that they were
>usually wrapped around a linen or cotton thread so they could be worked
>without constantly breaking.  How far back this method goes, I don't know
>yet.  I do have a Matadors jacket from a turn of the century (1900  :)  )
>costume company that is covered in metallic thread done in this manner.  I
>have seen modern embroidery done on Punjabi tunics with this as well.
>
>Personally, I use the plain DMC gold, silver or copper threads at this
>point, simply due to lack of skill at this time.
>Zelda
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: September 13, 1999 12:28 PM
>Subject: H-COST: (No Subject)
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>>
>>Hi, I have a question that probably sounds really stupid to you gus, but
>I'm curious. Way back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual
>metal? and if so, when you guys make authentic costumes do you use actual
>metal for this or do you use the "silver" & "gold" thread you can buy now?
>I've seen several peices in my life which had this wire type embroidery, of
>course all tarnished and in general in bad shape. Mostly on shoes and
purses
>for some reason. I've read about detail work quite a bit but have never
seen
>anything about metallic embroidery. I was just wondering what they used?
was
>is wire of a smaller gage than beading wire (like they use for jewelry) or
>what? again I appologize if this is a stupid question.
>>
>>---
>>Ginnaphure
>>
>>ICQ# 41340093
>>
>>"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the
>stake."
>>
>>
>>
>>Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
>> _________________________________________________________________
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>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:11:41 1999
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 <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu>
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:26:35 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

Linda,

Dietmar sent you some very important suggestions on sewing leather.  His
suggestion for seams is how I was taught to work with leather.  HOWEVER, he
didn't mention (and neither did my first teacher) that Barge cement is very
dangerous to use.  Make certain that you're using it outside with the wind
blowing the fumes away from you.  This is the day to send the kids and
animals inside the house for safety.  A rubber mallet is usually the way to
go when pounding the seams.

Lynn

>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Linda wrote:
>
>> I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a leather
>> sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and should go through
>> the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer stitches than I would with
>> woven fabric.
>
>Leather needles are triangular in cross section which helps cut through the
>leather without stretching it. Longer stitches will help make the garment
>stronger. If the stitches are too close together, the stitches can rip out,
>and you'll end up with a perfect pattern in leather minus the seam allowance.
>
>> I'm thinking about using some slashing and pinking to add interest and line
>> it with a bright, contrasting color to show off the slashes. Any suggestions
>> on the slashes?
>
>I've heard of people using a sharp chisel to make quick consistent slashes.
>I've also heard of someone using a drill to make consistent round holes
>through many layered pieces at once. (Although, I'm not sure I'd recommend
>this) I also understand that it's a good idea to punch a round hole at the end
>of long slashes so that the leather is less likely to tear at the ends.
>
>> Should I keep them smaller (1/2 inch or so big) so that the leather won't
>> stretch? Seems to me (the book is at home so I can't reference it now) that
>> the pictures I've seen in Janet Arnold show the pinking and slashing to be
>> fairly small.
>
>Consider that the more holes that you make, the more stretch that you will
>have. This is true whether you have a handful of large slashes or a myriad or
>tiny slashes. In Germany, slashes were often larger than in England, but both
>were done.
>
>> As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled seam
>> when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together, trim one
>> seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam allowances in the same
>> direction with the longer one on top, then top stitch in place (just like
>> regular flat felled only the raw edge isn't turned under to keep bulk down).
>> Anyone have experience, suggestions on seaming leather?
>
>I'd recommend that you sew the seams and hammer the seams open to either side
>and glue the seam allowance (1/4" or so) down with barge cement.
>
>> For sewing leather to fabric lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual
>> (with longer stitch length). Will this work?
>
>Depends on how you are lining it. Is it a bag lining, or are you lining
>particular areas only? I'm not sure how you would work a bag lining. Sewing
>the lining around each cut out area is the best method, but incredibly
>tedious.
>
>> I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
>> I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the pattern
>> pieces anyway you want.
>
>There is no grain line per se, but there are differing amounts of stretch in
>different parts of the hide. Some hides will have stretch marks that run in a
>particular direction. You will also want to work around blemishes in the
>surface of the hide.
>
>> I plan to use three layers: lining, interlining, and leather. Usually
>> when I make a doublet or bodice, I treat the lining and interlining as
>> one unit. Would it be better to use the interlining (which is the layer
>> that will show under the leather) and the leather as one unit instead.
>> Or does it matter?
>
>That seems like an unnecessary number of layers. I see most leather doublets
>as unlined. I can't see a satisfactory way of lining with that many layers,
>because the leather will stretch in different ways than the fabric lining.
>Leather stretches in the heat and shrinks in the cold, but the fabric won't. I
>guess that I'd rather line areas of slashing than try to line the whole thing.
>Perhaps you can make horizontal rows of slashing and sew the lining down with
>a horizontal seam between rows. The slashes don't have to be horizontal, but
>arranged in rows horizontally, such as:
>----------
>//////////
>----------
>Of course, the same thing could be done vertically.
>
>Any other caveats?
>
>I don't know of anything off the top of my head, but I'll think about it over
>the weekend and see if I come up with anything...and see if anyone else
>has input.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Dietmar
>
>
>"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
> over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:17:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:33:37 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> My guess is none of the above....you probably make her feel threatened and
> unessential.

I venture to say that just because the instructor felt this way doesn't mean that
Margo (or any other student) makes them fell that way.

Some instructors aren't comfortable with being questioned period.  Two
possibilities are that they either aren't confident about their own knowledge and
couldn't back up their claims and the other is that some folks do have to know it
all.  Whatever the reason it doesn't make her claim accurate.  While some folks
might well have cartidge pleated with three needles all at once, I doubt all
folks in period did.  Preposterous.  I always get a warning ding in my head when
someone says this is how they did it and this is the only way.  I suddenly doubt
either their research or their thinking.  Any seamstress who claims that
purchased patterns are better than personally fitted patterns and that that is
how the way it was done in period doesn't know much I wager.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:18:15 1999
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From: "Jennifer McNitt" <jenmcnitt@excite.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re:   h-costume-digest V4 #567
Message-Id: <937254725.24496.83@excite.com>
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-Poster: "Jennifer McNitt" <jenmcnitt@excite.com>

I recently ordered a Uniquely You dress form from Handcock Fabrics for
around $120.  I paid the full price since there were no sales at the time I
ordered it.  The form was $40-$50 more at JoAnns.

Jen
-------------------
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 13:19:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress forms

- -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

>I am thinking of getting the uniquely you dress form as well.  But from
>Greenberg & Hammer, who lists them in their catalog for about $200 instead
>of $250, 





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:21:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:42:44 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Zelda Wrote:
>I looked at the pattern - they're a bit different than the pair I worked
>from.  The pair loaned to me for reference have a separate calf section that
>is tighter than the upper legs - quite a bit tighter, and harder to fit.
>Would that type of pants also be appropriate for the waistband/front seam
>shown in your pattern?

It depends on what your ultimate goal is (I'm about to utter heresy here...)
If your goal is to get something reasonably close to accurate, that you can 
learn with, and won't embarrass you as your first attempt in this area, then 
sure, use what you have and see how you might adapt it to make it appear 
similar-ish to the *only* example of which I have heard of trousers from
this period.  Since it's the only example, it can't tell us about other 
styles and fashions anyway.  (Conversely, MOST of the people who will give you
a hard time about it not being absolutely perfect have probably never heard
of these trousers anyway.)

On the other hand, if you want to be *absolutely* accurate, then the examples 
you have in hand might not be the best examples to use (unless they have 
documentation I've not heard of, in which case I want it ASAP :) ).  Moreover,
I'll see about digging out my copy to see if I can tell you anything about
the 
fabric (content, thread count, etc).  AND you'll want to get the article
yourself.

Really, I can't tell you what's appropriate for what you make since I don't
know
exactly where you want to go with it.  All I can tell you is what they pulled 
from the ground (or in this case, swamp).

>Wonderful site!  Very helpful and informative!

Thank you.  I keep hoping to make it and the shoe site better, but "helpful"
get's me past the hard spots :)

>Zelda
>Who has added learning Norwegian to the *to do* list

Go for Swedish first.  It's a much more 'user friendly" kind of language...

Marc
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Ah, the joys of linguistics...I've always heard it referred to as
"Workman's Cleft".

Drea

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> > >In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the waist,  as
> > >a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.
> > In the US, we call that look "plumber's butt".  I wouldn't call it an
> > important part of our culture, though.
> 
> Maybe it depends on what part of the US you live in because here in my neck of
> the woods we call it T.V. Repairman Pants.
> 
> *GGGGG*
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:46:24 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 16:58:07 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: metallic embroidery
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

Here's my two cents

During the Rennaissance and before, metallic embroidery not only existed, but 
was very commonly found on items of the wealthy.  There were two ways (two 
ways I know of any how)  of creating the gold thread....Since Gold is 
ductile, it could be drawn into very thin strands....however, if one used 
more than just a small amount (ie, cloth of gold)  It would be very heavy.  
So Gold was welded to silver to form a lighter weight alloy....it was then 
pounded into sheets of gold leif.  It was then cut into very very thin strips 
and enveloped around saffron dyed linned threads and wound on a spool.  This 
technique was called "spun gold" The step by step instructions for spun gold 
can be found in the book On Divers Arts....which is a set of treatises 
written in the Medieval period on various art forms.

Hope this helps

Chas
(unlurking with a vengance)
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 8:33:24 PM !!!First Boot!!!, keltia@serv.net 
writes:

<< I venture to say that just because the instructor felt this way doesn't 
mean that
 Margo (or any other student) makes them fell that way. >>


Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that Margo intentionally made her feel this 
way.  Some people just feel threatened when they  think someone might know as 
much as they do on a certain subject...I certainly didn't mean to imply that 
Margo was doing this intentionally..thank you for drawing that to my 
attention as my wording may have mis communicated what I intended to say.

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:57:38 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: fulling wool
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I think but I am may be completely wrong that it was here that I was told.-
Human urine was collected from the ale houses to soak the wool in prior to
fulling and that the best came from the houses where strong ale
was drunk;>>

Urine was used in fulling and feltmaking to change the ph of the solution
(since they didn't have detergents), which helps to lift the cuticles on
the fibers and thereby making them latch together more firmly. Animal dung
is used in some areas of the world for the same reason.


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:57:45 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: metallic threads
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Way back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual metal?>>

Yes, both silver and gold (and gold-washed silver) was used for metallic
embroidery.

The metal was pounded and folded repeatedly, and then pounded very, very
thin, and cut into narrow strips (called lamella). The narrow strips were
wound evenly around thread (usually dyed silk), so it's not really "spun."
This type was used extensively in the 16, 17 & 18c.

Contrary to popular belief, it was not done with wire (and lamella was not
simply flattened wire).


De borah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:16:38 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:56:25 -0700
To: (Recipient list suppressed)
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    I'm reading several lists at once, among them h-costume and SCA Garb.
I'd just finished reading a post from a lady who was wanted some explicit
help constructing authentic Viking/Verangian Guard-style pants...then I
read another:  Sounds like you are in desperate need of a Viking. They
never need oiling and  they are pretty much unjammable ... <snip> ...
             At which point, I was curled up over my keyboard laughing...
I'm sorry...I had to share that...and as you see--it was not either post,
but my misinterpretation, and all because of the commonality between the
two posts of the word Viking... Carol / Gra/inne, who thinks maybe it's
time to go do something else for a while...
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:16:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:31:00 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:36 AM 09/13/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>Gabardine is not a fulled wool but a very fine weave.  My dictionary says
that
>it is a worsted cotton, wool, or rayon twill cloth.  Don't know what they
might
>have called it in the 14th century but twill weaves are certainly appropriate
>for that time.  Very appropriate in fact.
           Thank you, Merouda.  I was wondering, because I think of fulled
wool as heavy, felted stuff...and the gabardines I've used haven't been,
but that was the term the lady used to me...so I echoed it.  I'm used to
the worsted twill mostly.  Gra/inne / Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:25:59 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909131638340.12538-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:47:07 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  "Bad Moon A-rising......" <G>

sorry. <G>
 Liadain

> Ah, the joys of linguistics...I've always heard it referred to as
> "Workman's Cleft".
>
> Drea
>
> On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
>
> >
> > -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> >
> > > >In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the
waist,  as
> > > >a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.
> > > In the US, we call that look "plumber's butt".  I wouldn't call it an
> > > important part of our culture, though.
> >
> > Maybe it depends on what part of the US you live in because here in my
neck of
> > the woods we call it T.V. Repairman Pants.
> >
> > *GGGGG*
> > Cynthia
> > --
> > Cynthia Long
> > Merouda the True of Bornover
> > Barony of Madrone
> > Kingdom of An Tir
> >
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:29:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:44:42 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>

At 01.20 +0100 99-09-09, Penny Ladnier wrote:>
>Are our lurkers introverts????
>
<snip>
>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!

	<grumble, grumble> So *this* is why I had over 500 mails waiting
for me after I had been away for only 5 days :-)

	Mostly I lurk and learn on this list, though last autumn I were
rather active asking a lot of questions, when trying to make a Tudor
costume for a doll. Presently I mostly send the occasional post about the
non-existing progress on my planned development of the web-page for the
doll costume :-) So far, I've finally got the new pictures into the
computer. Now it only remains to actually write and design the bloody
thing! And since my bad back prevents me from spending too much time in
front of the computer, this will probably take another 6 months. And that
damn back prevents me from doing much sewing either :-(

	Well, that's enough grumbling from me on this topic. Back to my
mail back-log, still another 149 messages to read . . .

/Ninni Pettersson

--------------------------------------------------------------
Ninni M Pettersson -- Stockholm, Sweden -- vidumavi@swipnet.se
Tudor Doll Costume -- http://home9.swipnet.se/~w-93136/doll1.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:35:44 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:49:47 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

Thanks to all for the advice. I have a Spanish surcote to make 
before I can start the doublet. In the meantime, I'll do some testing 
on a scrap of the leather.

One suggestion I got came from someone here in town. He said if 
my machine can't handle the leather, to cut out the pieces and 
mark them, then take them to someone he knows that will sew 
them on an industrial machine for a fee.

Thanks again,

Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

My $.02

You can embroider with metals, but you may find you need to handle the threads delicately,
especially the threads that are made completely of metal.

You can also incorporate metal in your designs by "couching" it. You lay the gold wire on the
fabric (which should be strong and firm) and secure the wire to the fabric using overcast
stitches with thread of a similar color or contrasting, depending on the effect you desire.

There are very useful directions for sewing with gold in  _The Complete Encyclopedia of
Needlework_ by Therese de Dillmont. It was originally published in 1884 and has 700 pgs of info
about whitework, linen embroidery, applique, crewel, tapestry, lacemaking, and more. It is one
of my favorite handwork books. The methods are not organized by date or place of origin (she
just tells you how do the needlework), but I think that you can probably recreate the look of
just about any historical embroidery or lace detail using the instructions in this book.


jb

<<<<Hi, I have a question that probably sounds really stupid to you gus, but I'm curious. Way
back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual metal? and if so, when you guys make
authentic costumes do you use actual metal for this or do you use the "silver" & "gold" thread
you can buy now?  I've seen several peices in my life which had this wire type embroidery, of
course all tarnished and in general in bad shape. Mostly on shoes and purses for some reason.
I've read about detail work quite a bit but have never seen anything about metallic embroidery.
I was just wondering what they used? was is wire of a smaller gage than beading wire (like they
use for jewelry) or what? again I appologize if this is a stupid question. >>>>

- ---

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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

> I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
> -- properly felt was made from unspun wool.

Somebody wrote:  I suspect that fulled wool was in period long before the 14th
century.  


I don't know what was happening earlier, but by the eleventh century, when the
horizontal loom was being used, fulling was an extremely important part of the
textile production process, to the point where mechanical fulling milles were
being recorded, even that early, although the process remained basically hand
done for the most part.  Most wools, broadcloth especially, was extremely
heavily fulled, to the point where
	- you couldn't see any weaving pattern, so it was mostly done
	in plain weave
	- fabrics might lose up to 30% in length, 35-40% in width, or up to 60% in
surface area.

  After fulling and various other processes, the nap would be raised and then
sheared off.  This process might be repeated more than once for fine cloths
such as 'scarlet' (the finest and most expensive woolen cloth, not a color). 
The result was a cloth that was heavy and practically impermeable.  Also,
really good cloths might be raised and sheared repeatedly during the course of
their life as clothing--royal wardrbe accounts often have records of payments
made to shearers--which shows you how thick the cloth must have been.

To anybody who's interested in the processes:  a book called *The Dictionary
of the Middle Ages*, edited by Joseph R. Strayer, has two articles in its
"Scandinavian Languages to Textiles, Islamic" volume.  Both are by John Munro,
an economic historian with a special interest in textiles; one is on Textile
Technology and the other on Textile Workers.  The shrinkage figures I gave
above come from the first one.


Lauri
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From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: h-costume, How many members?  384 !
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>

Greetings,

I am a sometimes poster, sometimes lurker.  I also read other lists and
follow what I can, learn where I can.  I hate to burst the bubble of having
everyone check-in, so go ahead and keep on.

On using the command to the majordomo - the listserve's origin, 'who
h-costume' I received a list of 384 people receiving this list via the
listserve.   No, I wouldn't spam the list and I hope there anti-spam
measures set up.

There are some commands that listserve lists and other email lists have in
common.  This one does not really carry its back files/archives, and has no
other files to access.

For more info on list servers and stuff, I found Patrick Crispin's articles
Roadmap 'Guide to the Internet' very useful:

http://www.nmusd.k12.ca.us/Resources/Roadmap/welcome.html


Sidne

"Psychoanalysis is expensive, bubble wrap is cheap.  You chose. "

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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:11:00 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


>OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
she's 4 inches taller and thinner!

>Am I dreaming???

Do not get anything *except* an Uniquely You. They're fantastic!  Expensive,
tho'. Here's how to share: buy 2 covers for the dummy.  When it's your turn
w/ the dummy, take your friends cover off, put your cover on.

If you're both in the size range of 1 dummy, you can share.  If in doubt,
buy the next size larger. She'll squish.   Check the under bust size, too.
They dont publish this number, but if you have a small ribcage for your
size, this can end up too small.  Then your close-fitting dresses cant be
made on the dummy. Have a Very Experienced fitter do your cover & your
friend's.

Uniquely You's corset up marvelously. Some people have 2 or more covers; one
for each era they costume. I.e. you might make 1 to fit your natural, modern
shape & another that's for the "highbreasted" flat-front corsetted eras.

Some modifications:
I have reshaped mine somewhat to compensate for protruding shoulder blades &
forward thrust shoulders.  I cut off the shoulder back & slipped the excess
foam under the cover into the shoulderblade area.  I find that the neck is
quite far forward (I have very vertical posture), but havent figured out how
I want to adjust this.  Collared jackets & highnecked gowns are best made
right on the person rather than the dummy.

Some people add "birdseed boobs" to mimic the movement upwards that natural
ones have when corseted.  Take a pair of panty hose, snip off toes, fill
toes w/ "sufficient" birdseed, stitch shut. Slit the underbreast of the
dummy, insert seedpouch, put "highbreasted" cover on dummy.  If this makes
you squeamish, just tuck a little quilt batt between the cover & the dummy
till you get the correct shape.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
> 
> Silver and gold have always been and still are used for ecclesiastical and regalia decoration, Whether it be actual sewing threads or fine 'tubes' of netal which is couched down . Unfortunately the percentage of metal used is a lot less these days than it was even at the end of the war (only 9% today). It is the same with military lace. As I specialise in making repro uniforms this is something I deal with on a day to day basis and get my supplies from the MOD suppliers in England direct although alot of this work is now going abroad to India because of cost. The Royal School of Needlework at Hampton court as part of their apprenticeship teach goldwork and are responsible for the conservation of many embroideries of this type. My other half specialises in repro regalia and uniform embroidery in gold and silver work (he's self taught because of the necessity to finish my uniforms off, I don't embroider unless I have to it always was man's work and I don't see why it should be!
 any different today) making tail ornaments, badges etc he also spins his own bullions for eppaulettes etc and he's in the process of embroidering an 18th century stomacher in metal threads includung real spangles . Now I can get real I don't use fake I'm afraid
> 
> ---
> Ginnaphure
> 
> ICQ# 41340093
> 
> "Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake."
> 
> Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> > I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
> > -- properly felt was made from unspun wool.

Something I forgot to add.  I don't know about dates, as I said, but I do know that
fulled wool and felted wool are not the same thing.  The difference is the process and
when it takes place in the life of the wool.  Felting is done after washing (and maybe
after carding) and is not woven but fulling only takes place after the wool is
cleaned, carded, spun, and woven.

Merouda
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I certainly didn't mean to imply that
> Margo was doing this intentionally..thank you for drawing that to my
> attention as my wording may have mis communicated what I intended to say.

Of course you didn't.  :)  Email is such a tough medium to use sometimes.  :)

Cynthia


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:20:39 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


> Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.

Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.  Saves much
wear & tear on the fingers.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> 
> > Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> > doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.


Run your thread over a block of beeswax before sewing, and it will
eliminate many of your tangles.  Using silk thread does the same.

If you aren't familiar with the wide range of available sewing
stitches--running stitch, back stitch, hem-stitch, blind-stitch,
etc.--check out a book on sewing or such from the library and read up on
them. Although you don't need to know lots of fancy stitches to sew by
hand, it's nice to know something of what exists if you want to do
something special.

And don't worry if your seams wander all over the place at first; it takes
some practice to get a straight, even seam. Hand-sew a 10-gore greenland
dress, and I guarantee that by the time you're done your seams & stitches
will be the envy of all your friends.  :)

Good luck,

Drea

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Source for real gold-wrapped thread?
In-Reply-To: <37DDDC13.318B@virgin.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Do you have the address, phone or email of a company that sells the heavy
gold and silver wrapped cording, or the metal "tubes" which are sewn down?

Do tell!

Thanks,

Drea

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Dawn wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> 
> Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
> > 
> > Silver and gold have always been and still are used for
ecclesiastical and regalia decoration, Whether it be actual sewing
threads or fine 'tubes' of netal which is couched down . Unfortunately
the percentage of metal used is a lot less these days than it was even at the end of the war (only 9% today). It is the same with military lace. As I specialise in making repro uniforms this is something I deal with on a day to day basis and get my supplies from the MOD suppliers in England direct although alot of this work is now going abroad to India because of cost. The Royal School of Needlework at Hampton court as part of their apprenticeship teach goldwork and are responsible for the conservation of many embroideries of this type. My other half specialises in repro regalia and uniform embroidery in gold and silver work (he's self taught because of the necessity to finish my uniforms off, I don't embroider unless I have to it always was man's work and I don't see why it should be!
>  any different today) making tail ornaments, badges etc he also spins his own bullions for eppaulettes etc and he's in the process of embroidering an 18th century stomacher in metal threads includung real spangles . Now I can get real I don't use fake I'm afraid
> > 
> > ---
> > Ginnaphure
> > 
> > ICQ# 41340093
> > 
> > "Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake."
> > 
> > Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 18:00:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 14:11:57 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I won't say who it was, but someone wrote:

> But I prefer to overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed
> as does my DH.

I've seen a number of posts referring to a DH. Maybe it's the baseball player
in me, but I can't imagine why everyone has a designated hitter. Okay, I'm
just a dumb male, but what is being referred to here?

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 18:01:45 1999
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Katharine wrote:

> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday life,
> when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a fashionable/historical
> flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

Well, I like to think that I'm always dressed nicely (unless I'm doing grubby
housework, gardening, etc.), but my choices are severely limited by two
factors; I'm male and allergic to synthetics.

I spent some critical formative years (age 12-18) living on an island in the
Central Pacific and the rest of my life in sunny Southern California. Thus, my
preference is for shorts and a polo or t-shirt. There are only two or three
weeks out of the year that I find it necessary to wear jeans. Even when I'm
dressing casually, I do my best to make sure that I choose colors and patterns
that match each other and my coloring.

Thankfully, I've never worked in a field that required a necktie. I've never
been the type to wear boring plain white or light blue dress shirts. I like to
wear tasteful stripes and plaids and the occasional print, usually leaning
towards the classic styles rather than anything outlandish. Slacks are usually
pleated front cotton twills in various colors. Never corduroy or cuffs. I
don't have a suit (though I should), but wear a silk or linen blazer with a
tie that's interesting, but neither plain nor gaudy.

I like to wear sweaters and jackets, but around here we don't have much call
for them. Of course, this hasn't stopped me from collecting more than I'll
never need.

My biggest dilemma is shoes. I'm very picky about them and won't wear anything
that looks like a boat shoe, golf shoe, or bowling shoe. Unfortunately, that's
99% of what is available.

I'm sure that's more than anyone wanted to know. :-)

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 16:24:01 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> > But I prefer to overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed
> > as does my DH.
>
> I've seen a number of posts referring to a DH. Maybe it's the baseball player
> in me, but I can't imagine why everyone has a designated hitter. Okay, I'm
> just a dumb male, but what is being referred to here?

DH = Dear Husband  :)    Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A
>DH = Dear Husband  :)   

Or Damn Husband, depending on how the week is going.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 18:19:56 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000101befe14$af494c10$6b037a86@cbarnes.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:30:45 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Rather than go looking for a sailors palm.which can often be a bit too bulky
for every day stitching - you will always be putting in on and off. ; Why
not make a smaller one yourself , with a coin sewn firmly between to pieces
of thick material and with a presstud at the back of the hand to keep it
tight; It gives you enough for a heavy push and doesnt get in the way when
positioning material or threading needles.
Dave



+++++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>
>
> > Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> > doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.
>
> Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.  Saves
much
> wear & tear on the fingers.
>
> --cin


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
>
>Linda,
>
>Dietmar sent you some very important suggestions on sewing leather.  His
>suggestion for seams is how I was taught to work with leather.  HOWEVER, he
>didn't mention (and neither did my first teacher) that Barge cement is very
>dangerous to use.

I second this warning and would recommend as an alternative a non-toxic
adhesive called "Leather Weld."  While I am not expert in leather-working,
this has worked for me in the past.  I believe it can be gotten through
Tandy.  Does anyone else have any experience with it?

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:03:54 1999
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From: "Andrea navin" <medea6186@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ranting against fashion idiots
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:18:14 EDT
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-Poster: "Andrea navin" <medea6186@hotmail.com>


g. Was this a
>fluke or has medieval really come back as a fashion influence with teens?
>
I missed delurking day but I just had to answer the question for my 
generation. Yes medieval is back. Not for teeny bopper, Britney Spears-lover 
people. But for the less "mainstream" teenagers, yes.
Two of my friends are going medieval for Prom this year: both are getting 
their dresses at the local medieval shop which has two or three locations 
and just opened a Victorian shop as well. (Unfortunantly they think I am 
going medieval with them despite the fact that I have told them thousands of 
times I'm going 19th century.
And they still say " Yeah, like I said, you're going medieval" *sigh*)
I am just looking forward to the faces of the people on the subway when we 
show up in or medieval/19th century attire :)

Andrea
And yes my hair is red!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:03:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:17:53 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: DH
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 7:37:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Margo Anderson 
writes:

<< Or Damn Husband, depending on how the week is going. >>

I almost choked on my tea!!!   Thanks EVER so much for that bit of 
day-brightening!!!   :::still chuckling and going back to sewing the 
un-authentic but gonna-be-fun silk plaid skirt to wear to Faire this coming 
Saturday for "Scottish Weekend"::::

~Morghana
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:07:01 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909131917.MAA28830@zeus.directcon.net> <37DD5B09.3844BC2@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:19:25 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I always call it the Refrigerator Repair Man.  Have you ever seen the scene
on Saturday Night Live where Bill Murray (a.k.a. Tad) and Gilda had the frig
repaired.  The repairman bent over and his moon shined.  The two of the
giggled themselves silly.

Later... Penny

**********************************
Deadline for the Online Costume Ball is Sept. 21
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm



> Maybe it depends on what part of the US you live in because here in my
neck of
> the woods we call it T.V. Repairman Pants.
>
> *GGGGG*
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:08:33 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I second this warning and would recommend as an alternative a non-toxic
>adhesive called "Leather Weld."  While I am not expert in leather-working,
>this has worked for me in the past.  I believe it can be gotten through
>Tandy.  Does anyone else have any experience with it?
>
Yes, since the leather business my husband and I used to have was during my
two pregnancies and subsequent brestfeeding, there was  No Way I was going
near barge cement.  I used Leather Weld instead.  It doesn't have the
"instant hold" that Barge and other contact cements have, so you have to
clamp, weight, or otherwise hold the pieces together until it dries, but
then the bond is very strong

For sewing garment weight leather, I usually used a mock welt seam,  with
both seam allowances folded to one side and then topstitched.  To secure the
seams before stitching I used Dritz's basting tape, which works wonderfully
well. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:09:27 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:26:21 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>  After fulling and various other processes, the nap would be raised and
then
>sheared off.  This process might be repeated more than once for fine cloths
>such as 'scarlet' (the finest and most expensive woolen cloth, not a
color).
>The result was a cloth that was heavy and practically impermeable.  Also,
>really good cloths might be raised and sheared repeatedly during the course
of
>their life as clothing--royal wardrbe accounts often have records of
payments
>made to shearers--which shows you how thick the cloth must have been.


Yep.  The household accounts of Eleanor, Countess of Leicester (the first
non-royal household accounts extant) document her sending "Hick the Taylor"
off to London to have some clothes sheared.  As I recall, it wasn't cheap.
However, it doesn't necessarily mean the cloth was thick--just dense.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:31:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:51:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool question
In-Reply-To: <37DD7465.B52025C2@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


As long as we're on the topic...

Can worsted be fulled? I had the impression that it could not.

Was worsted (as we know it today) used in period? If so, was it valued? I
remember a discussion on this list a couple of years ago about this, but
the only thing I came away from it with was that the meaning of "worsted"
as used in medieval documents may not have been the same as we use now.
Which of course makes things only more confusing.

One reason I am suddenly concerned about this is that I have acquired
about 60 yards of pieces of fine wool suiting -- all of them 100 percent
worsted, very lightweight and smooth, in black, dark blue, grey, red, and
taupe. I'm dying to use them for things like men's hose and women's fitted
underdresses. But only if I'm sure that worsted, rather than just plain
wool, would have been valued. 

I am highly allergic to wool myself, but I don't react to these
wonderfully smooth worsteds, so this is the only way I'll have a wool
fitted gown of my own.

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:53:18 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 18:10:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <whiterose_y@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Cavalier Association
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <whiterose_y@yahoo.com>


Marsha, is there an address, either e-mail or snailmail for the group?
I'd like to include it in the Midwest resource list.
Thanks
Carol
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909131804.LAA20666@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:43:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

> This same person, BTW,  doesn't think I should be drafting my own
patterns.
> She wants me to use Past Patterns or some other company's pattern,
"because
> that way it's historically accurate".

Unless I've lost my mind (always possible) there were NO commercial patterns
in the 1850's so you are MORE accurate by drafting you own. I'll be the
first to admit that the first bodice I drafted for myself was far from
accurate but that was due to a lack of understanding of the differences
between 19th and 20th century cutting and draping. Now that I understand how
the different cuts works with the grain line etc. I think I am more accurate
drafting an item for MY body - just as my great, great, etc. grandmothers
would have done for themselves.

Beth

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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990913.114513.-232099.0.AnnetteAllen@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Red hair was (Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:26:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

>
> As I grew older and my hair grew darker, I insisted on blonde and
> everyone else kept calling it "strawberry blonde".  I began wearing
> jewel tones and people began asking me what color my eyes are.
> (I call them Hazel Grey, because they are grey when I am naked in
> a cream colored bathroom with no makeup on.)  They range from
> grey to bright blue, blue, green, blue-green, and/or yellow.
> (Apparently,
> they turn yellow when I am very angry, according to my husband, who
> would be the most likely to know!)
>
> I cannot use ash colors on my hair; it turns green.  I cannot use gold
> colors on my hair, it turns red.


Any genetisists on the list?? Are blond/brown hair turning red and chameleon
colored eyes genetically linked?? In college I started answering the "what
color ARE you eyes?" question with "I don't know! What color do you think
they are?" It drove one boyfriend absolutely crazy for a while - but then he
deserved all that and way more :)

Beth

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 20:48:48 1999
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990913.114513.-232099.0.AnnetteAllen@juno.com> <000201befe52$4ab371c0$9d5dadc7@bchamber>
Subject: Re: Red hair was (Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:03:08 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0149_01BEFE33.C3357400
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<<Any genetisists on the list?? Are blond/brown hair turning red and =
chameleon
colored eyes genetically linked??=20

One of my best friends has a degree in genetics.  I can give her a call =
and see if she can enlighten the list as far as redheads and an interest =
in costume history.  I'll let you all know if she has anything to say =
about it.  I'm a blonde gone red and now going back to blonde. =20

Well, need to get off the computer.  I have to finish preparing for =
Hurricane Floyd.  I'll probably away from the computerfor a couple days, =
for those of you trying to get a hold of me.  Wish me luck.

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;Any genetisists on the list?? Are =
blond/brown hair=20
turning red and chameleon<BR>colored eyes genetically linked?? =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>One of my best friends has a degree in genetics.&nbsp; I can give =
her a=20
call and see if she can enlighten the list as far as redheads and an =
interest in=20
costume history.&nbsp; I'll let you all know if she has anything to say =
about=20
it.&nbsp; I'm a blonde gone red and now going back to blonde.&nbsp; =
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Well, need to get off the computer.&nbsp; I have to finish =
preparing for=20
Hurricane Floyd.&nbsp; I'll probably away from the computerfor a couple =
days,=20
for those of you trying to get a hold of me.&nbsp; Wish me luck.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 20:54:55 1999
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

No your question is NOT really stupid.They did use real gold.People have been 
embellishing their clothes and embroideries for at least a couple of thousand 
years.
One of my passions happens to be metal thread embroidery.Specifically 
Elizabethean style.The metal was used in several different forms. There were 
twisted braids of metal over silk, there were hammered lengths of gold,called 
plate;there were the 'metal springs', gold bullions, in a variety of 
textures: smooth, checky,purl..It is still possible to  buy this stuff with 
some of the real gold or silver in. Most of the stuff you will buy in the 
fabric or needlework store is likely to be thread wrapped lurex , though.I 
get a lot of my stuff from Hedgehog Handiworks, here in California. I'll take 
a quick look a little later --when I'm not so rushed and can point you in the 
direction of some good informative books with descriptions and techniques 
how-tos if you are interested.

Cheers--
albra
gotta run, right now
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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:09:15   AlbraKat wrote:
>
>-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com
 There were 
>twisted braids of metal over silk, there were hammered lengths of gold,called 
>plate;there were the 'metal springs', gold bullions, in a variety of 
>textures: 

I've also seen the metal springs 
(I've seen them used to make petals 
of flowers) but I wasn't sure if that 
was the same thing. 

Thank all for you who replied:) it's 
appreciated. I see that the "metallic" 
thread now isn't too terribly different 
than it was. I pulls some apart and it's 
the "metallic" part wrapped around a 
white thread. The metallic part seems to 
be plastic of some sort, sort of like 
thin strands of mylar or whatever it is 
they use to make Christmas tree icicles 
out of. Sort of like how you all said they 
wrapped the threads in the fine metals. 
Very interesting. You all are a wealth 
of information!
 
---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, 
people got burned at the stake." 




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 22:59:34 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:20:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

By her insistence on holding multiple needles at one time (and if this
method turns out to be actually true), it makes me wonder if there was a
tool for this. Something made to hold multiple needles and keep them aligned
perfectly. Hmmm... I wonder if  they had one  of these tools on the "Liar's
Club" and didn't really know what it was. ;)

  Margo,  I think I would go back to the person and ask her to show you how
she knows this. Also,  what do you call what you do, if it is not cartridge
pleating.   I am very curious, and I think I would politely call her on it
if I were in your shoes.  If nothing else, for the learning value alone.
Though,  it is possible that the only thing you learn that she is full of
you know what.  Once you find out, could you share with us?  I am sure lots
of us would want to know.
   Michelle

I do not know how "they" cartridge pleated, and actually could
>rather care less.  Personally, I "know" how "I" cartridge pleat, and the
>authenticity of technique thereof is of no consequence.(or very little)
As
>long as what I have created matches what "they" created...why fuss about
>using 2,3,27000 needles at a time
>Chas
>

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:32:02 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Has anyone else seen the corset on the cover of the US September
Cosmopolitan magazine?  I was so fascinated by it (given our recent
thread about teens wanting Ren/Medieval for Prom) that I picked it up.

Kat
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What's a DH?
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:46:38 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



'Divorced Husband'  is what popped into my mind!
  Michelle
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> > But I prefer to overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed
>> > as does my DH.
>>
>> I've seen a number of posts referring to a DH. Maybe it's the baseball
player
>> in me, but I can't imagine why everyone has a designated hitter. Okay,
I'm
>> just a dumb male, but what is being referred to here?
>
>DH = Dear Husband  :)    Cynthia


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 23:51:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:06:34 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What's a DH?
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

Another list I was on used DH as Darling (or Dratted, depending on reference)
Husband.

Svanny

At 09:46 PM 09/13/1999 , you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>
>'Divorced Husband'  is what popped into my mind!
>  Michelle
>>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>>
>>> > But I prefer to overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed
>>> > as does my DH.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 00:31:54 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: No harm done/thanks for the info/Re: Source for gemstone bead buttons
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:45:39 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hi Danielle

No you haven't offended me at all. I know the difference between lapis and 
howlite. :-) Since Kat mentioned that she couldn't afford the real thing, I 
was just giving her an alternative that is about the same shade of blue but 
is much cheaper than the original. No harm done. Thanks very much for your 
information. I may be asking you for more gem info in the future. If that's 
okay with you.

Thanks again

Lonna


>From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for gemstone bead buttons
>Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:34:09 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
>Greetings,
>
> >I found a 16" strand of Howlite (dyed Lapis) 10mm beads (about 41 beads)
> >for $6.83 per strand (If you buy more than 3, there is a proportional
> >discount).  They also have a 12mm (34 beads) for $9.82. Their regular
> >lapis runs from $14.95 (for 4mm) to $29.95 (for 8mm).
>
>I think I'll preface this with the statement "however I say this I'm sure
>it will come out wrong".  Hi, my name is Danielle Nunn-Weinberg and I'm a
>gemmologist.  I just wanted to ask you if you realize that Howlite is a
>completely different mineral from Lapis Lazuli.
>
>Howlite is usually dyed a variety of different colours to be used as an
>inexpensive substitute for the more expensive stone it it impersinating.
>Most Lapis on the market these days is dyed already.  The way to test for
>dyed lapis is take a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol.  Rub it on a
>non-visible portion of the stone.  If there is any blue on the swab - the
>stone is dyed.  Please don't let either of these things detract from your
>enjoyment of the stone, it is just meant as information.
>
>Please forgive me if I've offended.
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, FGA, FCGmA
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 00:48:29 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:04:32 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Oh my, that really made me laugh . . . my first day on the SCA garb list,
too (grin).

Will you post it to the historic list, too?  I think they'd get quite a kick
out of it.

Zelda of York
-----Original Message-----
From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
To: Recipient list suppressed <Recipient list suppressed>
Date: September 13, 1999 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines


>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>    I'm reading several lists at once, among them h-costume and SCA Garb.
>I'd just finished reading a post from a lady who was wanted some explicit
>help constructing authentic Viking/Verangian Guard-style pants...then I
>read another:  Sounds like you are in desperate need of a Viking. They
>never need oiling and  they are pretty much unjammable ... <snip> ...
>             At which point, I was curled up over my keyboard laughing...
>I'm sorry...I had to share that...and as you see--it was not either post,
>but my misinterpretation, and all because of the commonality between the
>two posts of the word Viking... Carol / Gra/inne, who thinks maybe it's
>time to go do something else for a while...
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 00:55:15 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:55:21 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: metal embroidery
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

Just a couple of thoughts:

Another technique used with metal(lic) threads was used in some liturgical
garments I've seen.  It involved couching gold thread/thin cord with
colored threads, but the couching was very close together, like satin
stitching.  The idea was to "paint with thread", using different colors and
allowing more or less of the gold to show for shading.  Unfortunately, the
name of the technique escapes me right now.  It was very detailed and
obviously time consuming.  I saw several religious vestments using this at
the Phila. Museum of Art when we were there back in February.

In reference to the little metal "springs" that were couched down, I found
bags of the stuff in copper (yes, real copper) being sold for Xmas icicles.
 Don't know if it came in "gold" or "silver", but I got many bags of the
copper for less than $1 each.  This was in Menards Xmas decorations last
season.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 01:03:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:22:13 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I had written:

> Okay, I'm just a dumb male, but what is being referred to here?

Cynthia replied:

>> DH = Dear Husband  :)   

Margo added:

>>> Or Damn Husband, depending on how the week is going.

I hope it never gets bad enough to imply Deceased Husband.

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 01:07:59 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:22:37 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo

Delurking a bit here to ask -- What is a sailor's palm and where can I find 
one? Sounds like it could be something I can really use. I'm one of those 
people who can't stand to use a thimble. They make my fingertips itch. 
Besides, I need to actually feel what I'm stitching even if I end up with 
pock marks in my fingertips (which go away after a while as my sewing 
calluses begin to build up).

Thanks

Lonna


>From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: sailor's palm
>Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:20:39 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>
>
> > Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> > doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.
>
>Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.  Saves much
>wear & tear on the fingers.
>
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>408.570.1023
>Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
>Phoenix Technologies
>411 E. Plumeria Dr.
>San Jose CA 95134
>"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
>the wrong answers."
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Ten-gore Greenland dress? Have pattern?/Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:29:25 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

<snip> 10-gore greenland dress

This sounds wonderful. Where might I find more information on this? Patterns 
maybe? Whatever information you have will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much

Lonna


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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:53:53 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello

Sounds interesting.  Is it for making sails with?  How is it handled/used?

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: H-Costume (E-mail) <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 13, 1999 3:24 PM
Subject: H-COST: sailor's palm


>
>-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>
>
>> Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
>> doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.
>
>Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.  Saves much
>wear & tear on the fingers.
>
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>408.570.1023
>Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
>Phoenix Technologies
>411 E. Plumeria Dr.
>San Jose CA 95134
>"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
>the wrong answers."
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 01:37:47 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:52:16 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Ooops . . .

Sorry.   Oh well, goofed again.  This replying stuff is more hazardous than
lurking . . .

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: The Rogue <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 13, 1999 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines


>
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Oh my, that really made me laugh . . . my first day on the SCA garb list,
>too (grin).
>
>Will you post it to the historic list, too?  I think they'd get quite a
kick
>out of it.
>
>Zelda of York
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>To: Recipient list suppressed <Recipient list suppressed>
>Date: September 13, 1999 2:38 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>>
>>    I'm reading several lists at once, among them h-costume and SCA Garb.
>>I'd just finished reading a post from a lady who was wanted some explicit
>>help constructing authentic Viking/Verangian Guard-style pants...then I
>>read another:  Sounds like you are in desperate need of a Viking. They
>>never need oiling and  they are pretty much unjammable ... <snip> ...
>>             At which point, I was curled up over my keyboard laughing...
>>I'm sorry...I had to share that...and as you see--it was not either post,
>>but my misinterpretation, and all because of the commonality between the
>>two posts of the word Viking... Carol / Gra/inne, who thinks maybe it's
>>time to go do something else for a while...
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 02:40:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:59:01 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Someone (I'm sorry, but I don't remember who) wrote:

>>> Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.
>>> Saves much wear & tear on the fingers.

Lonna wondered:

>> What is a sailor's palm and where can I find one?

Zelda confirmed:

> Sounds interesting.  Is it for making sails with?  How is it handled/used?

I've never really seen or used one, but from what I understand it is a spoon
shaped metal depression that fits into the palm of your hand and can be used
to push needles through many heavy layers. I believe they may be attached to a
sort of glove and that in a pinch you could probably use a soup spoon to
hobble together a home made variant.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 03:16:19 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 01:30:58 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

I think I understand now. I get this picture in my mind of sailors using 
this to protect their hands while they are building and/or repairing sails 
or other heavy cloth objects. Now I need to go to my source at Fisherman's 
Wharf to see if they can help me find someone who still uses one.

Thank you, Dietmar, for shedding some light on this.

Lonna


>From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:59:01 +0000
>
>
>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Someone (I'm sorry, but I don't remember who) wrote:
>
> >>> Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.
> >>> Saves much wear & tear on the fingers.
>
>Lonna wondered:
>
> >> What is a sailor's palm and where can I find one?
>
>Zelda confirmed:
>
> > Sounds interesting.  Is it for making sails with?  How is it 
>handled/used?
>
>I've never really seen or used one, but from what I understand it is a 
>spoon
>shaped metal depression that fits into the palm of your hand and can be 
>used
>to push needles through many heavy layers. I believe they may be attached 
>to a
>sort of glove and that in a pinch you could probably use a soup spoon to
>hobble together a home made variant.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dietmar
>
>
>"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 04:07:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:34:09 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for real gold-wrapped thread?
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

aleed wrote:
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> Do you have the address, phone or email of a company that sells the heavy
> gold and silver wrapped cording, or the metal "tubes" which are sewn down?
> 
> Do tell!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea
> 
> On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Dawn wrote:
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Silver and gold have always been and still are used for

> ecclesiastical and regalia decoration, Whether it be actual sewing

> threads or fine 'tubes' of netal which is couched down . Unfortunately> 
> >  any different today) making tail ornaments, badges etc he also spins

 his own bullions for eppaulettes etc and he's in the process of

 embroidering an 18th century stomacher in metal threads includung real
 spangles . Now I can get real I don't use fake i'm afraid
> > >
> > >> > >  _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
Unfortunately the MOD suppliers don't supply direct (I don't think) as
due to many amalgamations the shop half has disappeared, and it's not
worth their while dealing with small orders. I get my supplies because
of Andrew's working with them. You Can I think buy via The Royal School
of Needlework at Hampton Court I will try and find their number. Andrew
sell the uniform laces but I'm not sure if he'd be interested in being a
supplier of threads as well I will ask him.
By the way the fake stuff is made from mylar, unfortunately the MOD is
starting to prefer this to real particularly in lace as it doesn't
tarnish which means we can get fewer designs for authenticity purposes.

Dawn

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:11:08 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: H-Cost: "Bum-cleavage"
In-reply-to: <199909131951.NAA28157@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the
> waist,  as a result if the trouser being worn on the hips. the
> display of cleavage by building workers is an important part of
> modern day British culture; No I am not Joking, however
> unbelievable  
> Dave

Dave is correct except that they aren't what I'd call "gentlemen" 
and it should be pointed-out that men displaying bum cleavage are 
usually the subject of jokes.

Trust me, for the most part it is NOT a pretty sight.  It's also not 
uncommon and seems to be part of the modern way of men 
wearing trousers.  Not around their waists but sagging 'round their 
hips.

The other day, on the way home from work, I had the misfortune of 
being behind a commuter as he climbed the stairs to the platform 
at the station.  He was clad in shirt, tiue, trousers and "smart" 
shoes, adn had a jacket folded neatly over his arm.

His trousers were so low-slung that they looked in danger of 
dropping altogether and the crotch was hanging about an inch or 
two above the knee....

<shudder>

Why do they do it?

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Although known by different names here, the really bad adhesives have been
phased out through  European Legislation over the last ten years. New ones
have been invented, that dont make you "drunk"  or give you brain damage ,
some like the dreaded Black Bostik just smell awful. . Trouble is that they
may be safe but they have a very quick intitial drying time, so you cant
move things. Also they are quick to deteriorate if you meave the lid off.
Instant treacle.
Can you get heat activated leather adhesives in the states retail; I know
you can in the trade , but can the ordinary joe? Is leather Weld like these?
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----

> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> >I second this warning and would recommend as an alternative a non-toxic
> >adhesive called "Leather Weld."  While I am not expert in
leather-working,
> >this has worked for me in the past.  I believe it can be gotten through
> >Tandy.  Does anyone else have any experience with it?
> >


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 04:30:29 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914083059.35419.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:44:42 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 I have a small collection . Its one of those silly things that I
collect -have to buy every one I see. Basically they are for working all
kinds of canvas; The best ones are ex-navy/army surplus  (pre -1950 better
still pre 1930) and are really impressive; Thick boiled leather that covers
the palm  and top of the hand with a hole for the thumb. In the middle one;
sometime two, dimpled and concave round metal pieces firmly sewn inside a
leather grommet arrangement. There are different styles; some are for tent
making. One is so stiff you can stand on it and it doesnt bend.
The military ones were issued as part of a tent repair kit that included
needles and  pieces of canvas and felt and little cards of really tough
braided thread, all in a little green felt bag. I have seen a full kit dated
I think 1898 go at auction for a couple of hundred pounds; But the same
pattern lasted for many many years. I have also seen more recent ones made
in  plastic , but they are still quite bulky items and a sure fire way of
breaking needles
Dave


+++++++++++++++++.
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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From: "Jennifer Gibson" <chula@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Setting to Digest
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 05:05:17 -0500
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-Poster: "Jennifer Gibson" <chula@midwest.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_006D_01BEFE6E.BCFE6980
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This may be a silly question, but how can I set the list to receive the =
posts in digest form?

Thanks,=20

Jennifer

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This may be a silly question, but how =
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list to receive the posts in digest form?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jennifer</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 05:48:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:16:53 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I have just spoken to him and  he says he would be happy to supply
anyone with metal threads if wanted. He can also supply metal fringing,
spangles, lace etc and makes tassels, hand worked metal thread tudor
buttons and loads of other stuff, he's far too useful so I can never
fall out with him. E-mail andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.uk or
phone UK 0181 580 2688>
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> Unfortunately the MOD suppliers don't supply direct (I don't think) as
> due to many amalgamations the shop half has disappeared, and it's not
> worth their while dealing with small orders. I get my supplies because
> of Andrew's working with them. You Can I think buy via The Royal School
> of Needlework at Hampton Court I will try and find their number. Andrew
> sell the uniform laces but I'm not sure if he'd be interested in being a
> supplier of threads as well I will ask him.
> By the way the fake stuff is made from mylar, unfortunately the MOD is
> starting to prefer this to real particularly in lace as it doesn't
> tarnish which means we can get fewer designs for authenticity purposes.
> 
> Dawn
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: "Bum-cleavage"
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:14:40 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

A female friend put a photo of herself in a 1700s dress on the pinboard at
work. Within an hour, someone had masked out all but the cleavage and added
the note, "Whose bum is this?"

> 
> > In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the
> > waist,  as a result if the trouser being worn on the hips. the
> > display of cleavage by building workers is an important part of
> > modern day British culture; No I am not Joking, however
> > unbelievable  
> > Dave
> 
> Dave is correct except that they aren't what I'd call "gentlemen" 
> and it should be pointed-out that men displaying bum cleavage are 
> usually the subject of jokes.
> 
> Trust me, for the most part it is NOT a pretty sight.  It's also not 
> uncommon and seems to be part of the modern way of men 
> wearing trousers.  Not around their waists but sagging 'round their 
> hips.
> 
> The other day, on the way home from work, I had the misfortune of 
> being behind a commuter as he climbed the stairs to the platform 
> at the station.  He was clad in shirt, tiue, trousers and "smart" 
> shoes, adn had a jacket folded neatly over his arm.
> 
> His trousers were so low-slung that they looked in danger of 
> dropping altogether and the crotch was hanging about an inch or 
> two above the knee....
> 
> <shudder>
> 
> Why do they do it?
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 06:51:22 1999
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From: Elaine Benfatto <benfatto@mediaone.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: worsted wool
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-Poster: Elaine Benfatto <benfatto@mediaone.net>

>Can worsted be fulled? I had the impression that it could not.
>
>Was worsted (as we know it today) used in period? If so, was it valued?

You didn't say which "period" you're asking about, but wool combing (the
preparation method that is necessary to produce worsted yarn) is a very,
very old craft. I've got a woodcut of Bishop Blaize, the patron saint of
woolcombers, who met with his unfortunate martyrdom in the 2nd century by
being torn apart by wool combs. And I'm pretty sure (although I'd have to
dig into my sources) that combing goes back even further than the 2nd
century. So, yes, worsted is a very old spinning method and could have been
used to produce yarn to make worsted cloth in medieval times and later.

Can worsted be fulled? Technically that depends on the kind of wool that
was used to make the cloth. Some breeds of sheep wool full easily, some not
at all. The question might better be phrased, "Did they full worsted?" And
I don't know the answer to that. Today worsted cloth is prized for its
smooth, crisp hand and that quality would be lost if it were fulled and
made fluffy. I'm not enough of a scholar to know if weavers and finishers
sought this effect in earlier times.

Elaine



Elaine Benfatto (Cambridge, MA)
benfatto@mediaone.net
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/benfatto/


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 07:25:47 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: sailor's palm
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

A sailor's palm is a metal (usually dimpled, to catch the needle) plate set
into a heavy leather strap that fits around your hand. As someone pointed
out, they are used in place of a thimble to push large, heavy needles
through many layers of sailcloth or canvas.

They would be worthless used with ordinary sewing needles -- how many of
you sew with a needle long enough to be pushed from underneath your thumb?
the needle needs to be at least 2 inches long, and also needs to be heavy
enough to withstand being pushed from that far without bowing or breaking.
Sail needles ar e*very* heavy.   Also, palms are quite cumbersome until you
get used to working with them -- it is *not* like sewing with a glove on
your hand.

They are still available, in several different grades. If you do any amount
of canvas work, I think it's worth it to spend the extra $$ to buy a good
one, which come in sizes, and can be formed to fit your hand. The cheap
ones are nasty and actually can be dangerous to work with, because they can
slide around so much.

Check the yellow pages for a ship's chandlery, marine supply place, etc.
There are several sailmakers' supply places that do mailorder.

De borah


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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 08:59:28 EDT
Subject: H-COST: local medieval shop
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Andrea:

I noticed the medieval trend in some young people, and some pattern companies 
even have goth wear that is obviously influenced by medieval fashions and 
Victorian "artistic" clothing. But what, please tell, is sold at a "local 
medieval shop"? We don't have any around here, and I am dying to know!

Gail Finke
whose medieval needs are more, well, medieval

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 08:05:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 06:25:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: local medieval shop
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


I have heard many people use this phrase in reference
to a Wicca Shop or an Herbal Medicine shop... I'm not
sure why... I do know that many Wicca shops sell the
"trendy vintage" clothes that are popular.

Sarah


> Andrea:
> 
> I noticed the medieval trend in some young people,
> and some pattern companies 
> even have goth wear that is obviously influenced by
> medieval fashions and 
> Victorian "artistic" clothing. But what, please
> tell, is sold at a "local 
> medieval shop"? We don't have any around here, and I
> am dying to know!
> 
> Gail Finke
> whose medieval needs are more, well, medieval
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 08:28:05 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:42:26 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Long ago and far away I lived on a boat , and one of the the chores was 
mending sails.The sailor's palm I had was a sort of leather strap that was 
fitted with a metal piece for pushing thru needles.It was rather thick and 
bulky and the metal par across the plam had little indentation much as a 
thimble has --but over a larger surface so the needles would'nt slip as you 
tried to push on them.(So, no, Deitmar , a spoon would'nt be as effective.) 
Even with a sailor's palm to halp me out, though , my hands got VERY sore.And 
the needles were huge, and quite nasty , if you goofed and missed the 
sail.And a boating hardware store, or ship's chadelry would be the best place 
o look for one.I would'nt waste my time on a plastic one--or it can be 
downright dangerous.
Cheers , 
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 08:38:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:53:10 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Spinners list
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Anyone know of a spinners list ?

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 08:43:55 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: metal embroidery
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

You are probably thinking of 'or nue'--which 'painted pictures', using silk 
over  a  background of couched golden cords. One can acheive some beautiful 
detailed effects doing this.There was also a technique called 'broiderie 
anglaise', which used backgrounds of couched gold threads in ornate diapered 
patterns.The figures were worked in split stitch, using silk.This technique 
was quite highly developed in the 12th  and 13th centuries --and was seen on 
a lot of the eclesiastical vestments.
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 09:20:52 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: sailor's palm (was Handsewing question?)
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

<Run your thread over a block of beeswax before sewing, and it will
eliminate many of your tangles.>

May I make a suggestion?   Press your waxed thread with a barely-warm iron to meld wax with thread, discourages wax from flaking off.

Also, be sure to thread the eye of the needle with the just-cut end of the thread.

If you don't mind non-historic methods, try Thread Heaven instead of wax.  Really does work better, especially in humidity.  More portable and doesn't melt (and the glitter topping is so cute).  THT, Renee


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 09:20:53 1999
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>

<On using the command to the majordomo - the listserve's origin, 'who
<h-costume' I received a list of 384 people receiving this list via the
<listserve.   No, I wouldn't spam the list and I hope there anti-spam
<measures set up.

Only list members can retrieve the list of members.  If people are
uncomfortable about that, I can lock it down so no one can retrieve
it.

As for anti-spam, the list is set so only addresses subscribed to the
list can post.  I've been running it with these settings for all of
the years I've been the admin, and we haven't had a problem yet (knock
on silicon chips).

						...eliz, list admin

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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>





<This may be a silly question, but how can I set the list to receive the =
<posts in digest form?

To join the list, send a message to

	majordomo@indra.com

with the message

	subscribe h-costume-digest
	unsubscribe h-costume

Majordomo keeps the lists separately, so you need to join one and
leave the other.  There isn't a 'digest setting' unless you're using
Listserv software.


						...eliz
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 09:22:56 1999
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From: jweidman@invest.treas.state.mi.us
Subject: H-COST: McClintock reprint available
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-Poster: jweidman@invest.treas.state.mi.us


Hello, the list, I have just ordered "Old Irish and Highland Dress" by
McClintock!. The reprint is now available at www.scotpress.com,
304-379-8803. I was so excited, I forgot to ask the price, so I am not sure
what I just spent. No affil, just passing on an item of interest! Jane
Weidman



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 09:51:42 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:06:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Ten-gore Greenland dress? Have pattern?/Re: H-COST: sailor's
 palm
In-Reply-To: <19990914062925.68548.qmail@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


There's a website of it up at
http://www.virtualelpaso.com/neverwinter/dress/dress.htm

It's neat!

Drea

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, L.L. Johnson wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
> 
> 
> >-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> <snip> 10-gore greenland dress
> 
> This sounds wonderful. Where might I find more information on this? Patterns 
> maybe? Whatever information you have will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks much
> 
> Lonna
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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Date: 14 Sep 99 10:01:09 MDT
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Gold thread embroidery
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-Poster: griffinhold@usa.net

>Another technique used with metal(lic) threads was used in some >liturgical
garments I've seen.  It involved couching gold thread/thin >cord with colored
threads, but the couching was very close together, >like satin stitching.  The
idea was to "paint with thread", using >different colors and allowing more or
less of the gold to show for >shading.  Unfortunately, the name of the
technique escapes me right >now.  It was very detailed and obviously time
consuming

That would be 'or nue' (I can't get the accent grave over the e).  Good
description BTW.  I haven't run into a use of the technique on anything other
than ecclesiastical vestments though.  But it would look great on smaller
(what I call an 'in my lifetime') size project like a belt pouch.  I also saw
a vestment using a combination of or nue and 3D embroidery if you really want
your imagination to run wild.

Lyn Gillespie

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 10:46:59 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>, "h-needlework" <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.org>,
        "Wear Digest" <wearable@listserv.embroideryclubs.com>,
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Subject: H-COST: Sneak Peek of Ball '99
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:53:03 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I wanted to let you all have a sneak peek of our Online Costume Ball '99,
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/Guest1.htm

Enjoy... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 10:54:18 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan - military buttons
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:26:08 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

> I've once again come across the assertion that Elizabeth issued a royal
> command that military uniforms have a line of buttons on the sleeves to
> prevent soldiers from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  I've seen
> this statement several times, but it's never been footnoted to track
> back to the original.  Fact or folklore?  If fact, where is it
> documented?

I think this one is folklore -- I've also heard the story attributed to
Napoleon, Peter the Great & Catherine of Russia, and assorted others.
It makes a good story, but I think it's more likely that the lines of
buttons are artefacts of a time when the buttons were utilitarian..

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 11:11:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:23:42 -0700
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From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Seams in leather
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Perhaps someone else has posted this and I missed it.  One feasible seam in
leather, and the flattest one, is to overlap the two pieces and sew the
overlap area.  With light, supple leather the bulk isn't a problem, but
heavier leathers don't fold flat.  Obviously the overlap must be carefully
figured, either by adding a small seam allowance to both meeting edges or
by cutting one edge on the seam line and leaving an allowance on the other.
 When double-stitched, this seam is quite strong (it can be enhanced by
glueing first) and it gives the general look of a felled seam.

Leslie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 11:12:09 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Can you get heat activated leather adhesives in the states retail; I know
>you can in the trade , but can the ordinary joe?  Is leather Weld like these?

I've never heard of heat activated adhesives for leather, but I've been out
of the business for a few years.  Leather Weld is a white glue, wth some
magical substances added. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 11:41:37 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:55:08 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Thank you, Dave.

I'm still going to check with my source, but now I can also haunt the local 
army/navy surplus stores.

Lonna

P.S. Would you be willing to scan some photos so our group can see    what 
they look like?

Thanks again

L.


>From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:44:42 +0100
>
>
>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>  I have a small collection . Its one of those silly things that I
>collect -have to buy every one I see. Basically they are for working all
>kinds of canvas; The best ones are ex-navy/army surplus  (pre -1950 better
>still pre 1930) and are really impressive; Thick boiled leather that covers
>the palm  and top of the hand with a hole for the thumb. In the middle one;
>sometime two, dimpled and concave round metal pieces firmly sewn inside a
>leather grommet arrangement. There are different styles; some are for tent
>making. One is so stiff you can stand on it and it doesnt bend.
>The military ones were issued as part of a tent repair kit that included
>needles and  pieces of canvas and felt and little cards of really tough
>braided thread, all in a little green felt bag. I have seen a full kit 
>dated
>I think 1898 go at auction for a couple of hundred pounds; But the same
>pattern lasted for many many years. I have also seen more recent ones made
>in  plastic , but they are still quite bulky items and a sure fire way of
>breaking needles
>Dave
>
>
>+++++++++++++++++.
>L.D.Mundy
>Editor.Heritage Matters
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 11:47:23 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Not a red-head, and some other questions.
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:00:29 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

Alright!

I hate to burst anyone's bubble but - I AM NOT A RED-HEAD!

I am a brunette with blue-grey eyes.  I have dyed my hair red previously.  
It started when I had mononucleosis and my hair turned grey.  My mom thought 
it would be nice if I went back to school looking "normal", so she let me 
get some red tints added.

I did go back to the bottle occasionally but am "straight" now :)

I have some other questions:
How many on this list do costuming professionally?
How many are doing this as a hobby?'
How many hours do you devote to sewing?

I only do this as a hobby and don't get to spend much time on it.  When I do 
have time, I occasionally forget and just turn the t.v. on without picking 
something up.  (Augh - what a boob am I!)  But I'm trying to improve.  Have 
spent several evenings sewing a shirt by hand, working on an embroidery 
project, and last night began making an 'arming' vest for my husband, for 
him to suspend his chainmail legs from.

Looking forward to your answers!

Karie (AKA Allessandre)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 12:07:21 1999
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Subject: Re: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

re:  commercial patterns -- Catherine Beecher's 1840's work on Domestic 
Economy suggested that women buy one well-fitted dress, pick one half/side of 
it apart, and make a pattern from it -- then sew the dress back together!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 12:27:56 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <41931D742A1@mdx-ref1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: "Bum-cleavage"
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:15:48 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Of course its part of the current fashion of "erghh-chic" . Its very
difficult to explain;
One of the major British dressing sins for many years has been the wearing
of the short tails inside the underpants; This is a device used by men whos
lack of bottom causes the shirt taills to work out of the trouser bad, and
is intend to keep the top of the shirt pulled straight and smart. Ie its
putting on a better face for the public while causing hidden problems,
elsewhere  Sometimes it has been called a sign of insecurity., many cases
being unearthedntioned most notably Crippen
However the great British Public will not stand for such things; When it was
revealed that John Major was of this particular persuasion the British
Public voted against him in the biggest landslide for many years. the moral
being if a man does that with his shirt how can he be trusted to run a
country and lead it into a new Millennium?
I believe that this is not possible in the US/ most of my US bought shirts
suddenly cease just below the waist; My UK ones have full tails which drape
in a curve down to mid thigh.. Perhaps this is something that dropped at the
time of independence. But then you are very particular about your
politicians.
Dave

L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 > -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
 >
> Dave is correct except that they aren't what I'd call "gentlemen"
> and it should be pointed-out that men displaying bum cleavage are
> usually the subject of jokes.
>
> Trust me, for the most part it is NOT a pretty sight.  It's also not
> uncommon and seems to be part of the modern way of men
> wearing trousers.  Not around their waists but sagging 'round their
> hips.
>
> The other day, on the way home from work, I had the misfortune of
> being behind a commuter as he climbed the stairs to the platform
> at the station.  He was clad in shirt, tiue, trousers and "smart"
> shoes, adn had a jacket folded neatly over his arm.
>
> His trousers were so low-slung that they looked in danger of
> dropping altogether and the crotch was hanging about an inch or
> two above the knee....
>
> <shudder>
>
> Why do they do it?
>


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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:59:40 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi all,

Zelda wrote:
> trying to find information about 1400 to 1500
> Dutch/Netherlands, of all classes.

Look for paintings by Jan and Hubert van Eyk, Rogier van der Weyden, Dirc
Bouts, Robert Campin, Hugo van der Goes, Hans Memling, Petrus Christus,
Quinten Matsijs and all that lot.. They are wonderful for costume details. 

Henk
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914165509.67100.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:52:48 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



 > -Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
>
 >
> P.S. Would you be willing to scan some photos so our group can see    what
> they look like?
 The problem here is that they are in a display in our Lancashire premises;
And myself and the scanner are both (overworked) in Birmingham; I can but
try but promise naught.
Dave


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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: a Sailor's Palm described
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:07:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Dietmar posited>I've never really seen or used one, but from what I
understand it is a spoon
>shaped metal depression that fits into the palm of your hand and can be
used
>to push needles through many heavy layers. I believe they may be attached
to a
>sort of glove and that in a pinch you could probably use a soup spoon to
>hobble together a home made variant.

Well conjectured!  It's a leather or canvas strap that partially covers the
palm & back of hand; it fits across or around 2 fingers and is anchored at
the wrist.  (Gymnasts and trapeze people will recognize this style
handguard - protection from ripped callouses.)  On the Sailor's Palm, at the
base of the thumb there is a small cup (maybe 3/4"), in hard rubber or
plastic.

Thread your needle. Strap the device on your hand. Insert needle into a
lapped seam of sailcloth, (or 2 pieces of leather, or a corset), use the
Palm to push the needle on thru the stiff, unyielding stuff. Draw the
needle.  Repeat.

 I find I often need a pair of pliers to draw the needle. Do not twist.
You'll break the needle.

There's another heavy-weight hand-sewing device usually stocked nearby.
Looks like a heavy duty tambour hook, but runs on a very heavy (sail weight)
"thread" that I certainly call cord; it's quite heavy.  Looks speedy &
handy.  I dont know what it's called.  Might be handy for medieval tent
making & repair in the field.

Buy: most hardware stores, leather shops, sailing paraphenalia shops.
Camping shops? Outdoor sporting goods shops?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:13:33 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

For many of us, costuming is a lifestyle, whether you get paid for it or
not.  I suppose I might come under the catagory of talented volunteer,
as I work with non-profit groups that rarely can afford to pay me.  I've
gotten the odd honorarium or travel expenses and occasionally get paid
for a workshop.  My husband is the bread-winner in the family. 
 
I work for one group (used to be two) as a Costume rental agent,
arranging for their stock to be rented to other, similar groups.  I also
own a legal company for theatrical design and construction.  My husband
does the lights and set side as his avocation.  I design costumes for
Gilbert and Sullivan operettas and then supervises the volunteers making
them.  I get to build the outfits for the "Pavarotti" sized members of
the cast, who can be a challenge to fit.  Oh yes, I also sing with many
of these groups at the same time as I'm dressing them.  Makes it a bit
complicated.

If I made money, I would be considered a professional, but since I
don't, I suppose I'm still an amateur.  Pity there isn't a catagory
between.

I am constantly enlarging my costume library, since the public libraies
around here suffer from "finger blight" or only have a few "fashion"
books.  When I need to do research, It's often during the times they're
not open!  I love finding out what the insides of old outfits look like
and the "whys and wherefores" of their construction.

-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
Boston, MA USA area
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:23:33 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>


Teddy,
They wear their pants this way so they can say that their waist is still
the same size as when they were in school.  Of course, for some reason
their inseam has shrunk also.  They can't figure out why.  I call them
the "Belly prop-ers".  They don't seem to "get it" that they would look
slimmer in the right size pants for their girth, and, Horrors! they
would never consider suspenders!  I get them all the time in Theatre,
and they really think they look better with their stomach held up and
out with a belt.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:23:34 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914170029.22800.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: (was red head) 1997 list statistics
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:34:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

In 1997, I made a directory for the list members.  At that time, the
majority of people were hobbyist.  I think the statistics were like 2/3 of
the list.  The professional costumers were designer/reproduction, product
development, educators/students, and authors.  The majority of the members
were in the U.S. with California carrying the largest amount.  Other
countries represented were from the U.K., Canada, Australia, Germany, and
the Netherlands.  The largest time periods studied were 19th century,
Elizabethan, and Medeval respectively.   As far as associations, most were
members of SCA and/or Costume Society of America members.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com



> I only do this as a hobby and don't get to spend much time on it.  When I
do
> have time, I occasionally forget and just turn the t.v. on without picking
> something up.  (Augh - what a boob am I!)  But I'm trying to improve.
Have
> spent several evenings sewing a shirt by hand, working on an embroidery
> project, and last night began making an 'arming' vest for my husband, for
> him to suspend his chainmail legs from.


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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: h-costume-digest V4 #581
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:42:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>


> Karie Mitchell wrote:
> 
> I have some other questions:
	1.  How many on this list do costuming professionally?
	2.  How many are doing this as a hobby?'
	3.  How many hours do you devote to sewing?

	Answers:  
	1.  Not me, but would love to have the knowledge and
craftswoman's-ship to do it professionally.

	2.  Yes, hobby only -- one of many -- oh, the trail of unfinished
projects I have left behind................  I am a museum volunteer and do
mending, repairs, and stablizing as I have time (working for a living
prevents many hours otherwise spent in these interests)-- a great enjoyment.


	3.  Not nearly enough.  Only a few hours now and then, but in
between sewing projects there are the embroidery and other needlework
projects.

	Dark brunette with red highlights and green eyes.  Connie Fairchild
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:41:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:45:37 -0400
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

>The result was a cloth that was heavy and practically impermeable.  Also,
>really good cloths might be raised and sheared repeatedly during the course
of
>their life as clothing--royal wardrbe accounts often have records of
payments
>made to shearers--which shows you how thick the cloth must have been.


Yep.  The household accounts of Eleanor, Countess of Leicester (the first
non-royal household accounts extant) document her sending "Hick the Taylor"
off to London to have some clothes sheared.  As I recall, it wasn't cheap.
However, it doesn't necessarily mean the cloth was thick--just dense.

Susan

Dear Susan:  I stand corrected.  'Dense' is precisely what I meant.
Lauri


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:42:04 1999
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

Somebody wrote:

Another technique used with metal(lic) threads was used in some liturgical
garments I've seen.  It involved couching gold thread/thin cord with
colored threads, but the couching was very close together, like satin
stitching.  The idea was to "paint with thread", using different colors and
allowing more or less of the gold to show for shading.  Unfortunately, the
name of the technique escapes me right now.  It was very detailed and
obviously time consuming. 

This sounds similar to a technique called 'or nué'.  All the kinds of metallic
threads which have been mentioned were used in the Middle Ages.  There's a
book called "Embroiderers," by Kay Staniland, which was published by the
University of Toronto as part of a really good series called 'Medieval
Craftsmen,' which has excellent pictures and descriptions of medieval
embroidery work and the materials it was made from.  (ISBN:  0-8020-6915-0)

Lauri

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909141625.JAA26179@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:50:24 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 > -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
 > I've never heard of heat activated adhesives for leather, but I've been
out
> of the business for a few years.  Leather Weld is a white glue, with some
> magical substances added.
>
 Sound truly magickal Ishall set off in search;
Thanks very much.
Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:44:57 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37DC80F7.16B4C5AB@flash.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan - military buttons
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:56:47 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


  I have heard this one several times but never traced a source;; Its not
practical either  else they would be all the way up the arm; soldiers use
the upper sleeve just like the rest of us.
Dave>

>
> -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>
> I've once again come across the assertion that Elizabeth issued a royal
> command that military uniforms have a line of buttons on the sleeves to
> prevent soldiers from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  I've seen
> this statement several times, but it's never been footnoted to track
> back to the original.  Fact or folklore?  If fact, where is it
> documented?
>


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914170029.22800.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other questions.-answers
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
 > I have some other questions:
> How many on this list do costuming professionally?
No way! Wouldn't tolerate the thought for a moment. And I greatly admre
anyone that does it for a living. I have a very low customer tolerance level
I would end up end up in  deep:::; Although I have made all of the costumes
I use for guided walks characters as well as for the other shows that I no
longer do;  I write illustrate and photograph costumes now instead of
wearing them professionally. Occasionaly I will draft out a pattern to help
a friend as a favour.
Maybe I could do the job but I certainly couldnt live on what some of my
friends make. How they manage  and with the things I dont have; families,
mortgages etc  is a miracle to me and then they have to cope with fussy
people as well  ARGGGH.!
I am planning to start doing a  small number of shoemaking demonstrations
next year but just mainly for the free camping in nice company. But no way
am I going into ongoing supplier /customer relationship by trying to sell
anything.
> How many are doing this as a hobby?'
My hobby is embroidery in all of its forms, not so much a hobby more therapy
and it fills my time that I have to spend away from the computer; It also
the only thing I have space for; its very restful.  The pieces get made into
shoes, eventually. I have been known to carry the work around in my camera
bag when on papparazzi type contracts, to while away the hours of waiting
time;
> How many hours do you devote to sewing?
The embroidery counts yes? ......Not enough ; On a good day I aim at 3 or 4
hours, half of which is spent admiring  it or looking for mislaid items.
After some particularly gruelling jobs I have a frenzy at it for hours and
hours until I return to some kind of human being.
>
 Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:56:08 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Status:  hobby or professional?
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 15:13:07 -0400
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>



Karie Mitchell wrote:

>I have some other questions:
>How many on this list do costuming professionally?

Nope.  I sell patterns and fabric for costuming, but do not produce the 
garments for resale or for any given group.  I can barely keep my 11 year 
old in clothes!

>How many are doing this as a hobby?'

I think this would be my level at this point.  It is peripheral to my 
profession, and I have done lots of garments, very few of which I have.  
But since the making of garments itself is not how I earn my living, I 
guess this is where I belong.

>How many hours do you devote to sewing?

Not nearly enough.  I'm delving back into my first love, Tudor era, and 
actually making time to sew a couple of hours a day.  Now if I can just 
get some new things done for _myself_.

Lisa Brandt (AKA Lisee)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 14:34:03 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Yes! I'm on a list called Fibernet. It generally covers spinning and weaving topics. It is not quite as active as h-costume, but there are a lot of knowledgeable people on it. I have lost the info on how to
join, but if you contact
          owner-fibernet-digest@Majordomo.net I'm sure they can help you.

jb

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914160109.27132.qmail@www0q.netaddress.usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gold thread embroidery
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

More USeless information ; If you ever get the chance ;go see the collection
of ecclesiastical vestments at Townley Hall near Burnley; Wow,  many use the
technique you mention very pictorial; take a torch they keep them in the
dark
Dave

>
> -Poster: griffinhold@usa.net
>
> >Another technique used with metal(lic) threads was used in some
>liturgical
> garments I've seen.  It involved couching gold thread/thin >cord with
colored
> threads, but the couching was very close together, >like satin stitching.
The
> idea was to "paint with thread", using >different colors and allowing more
or
> less of the gold to show for >shading.  Unfortunately, the name of the
> technique escapes me right >now.  It was very detailed and obviously time
> consuming


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000001befedc$0d4b6e20$6b037a86@cbarnes.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: a Sailor's Palm described
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 20:18:37 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 > -Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
 > There's another heavy-weight hand-sewing device usually stocked nearby.
> Looks like a heavy duty tambour hook, but runs on a very heavy (sail
weight)
> "thread" that I certainly call cord; it's quite heavy.  Looks speedy &
> handy.  I dont know what it's called.  Might be handy for medieval tent
> making & repair in the field.
>
 Is this what I tend to call ,perhaps wrongly, as a "stitching awl" like a
heavy handle spike but with a hole or hook near the point. I have seen them
used for stitching bales of things like cotton and wool; It is pushed
through and the free end is pulled and looped back and doesnt need knotting;
Also I have seen a similar but smaller thing used on those big rope fenders
they used to have on boats before old car tyres?
I am sorry this list is turning into "old tools"
Dave

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:25:55 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: a Sailor's Palm described
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
>...Well conjectured!  It's a leather or canvas strap that partially covers
the
>palm & back of hand; it fits across or around 2 fingers and is anchored at
>the wrist.  (Gymnasts and trapeze people will recognize this style
>handguard - protection from ripped callouses.)  On the Sailor's Palm, at the
>base of the thumb there is a small cup (maybe 3/4"), in hard rubber or
>plastic.

A good description, although mine doesn't have such a cup.  Mine has what
looks
like the end of a metal thimble wrapped in rawhide.

Marc
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


I'm often surprised at how "normal" many of the people I know who are into 
costuming  look out of costume, although, given my mostly monochromatic 
wardrobe, many folks I know would probably say the same about me...what can I 
say, my mom dressed me in pastels as a kid and I've been rebelling ever 
since.  ;-)

80 percent of my wardrobe is black: velvet dresses of all shapes and styles, 
40s rayon dresses, 90s cotton dresses, platform flip flops, a multitude of 
granny boots, clunky heels, mules, brocade jackets, leather jackets, long 
straight rayon skirts, "slinky" a-line skirts, Chinese blouses, oxford 
shirts, pirate shirts, t shirts , etc., all in black.  The rest is more of 
the above styles in olive, red, wine, purple, navy or chocolate brown. And 
occasionally checkerboard black/white.

Most of the skirts I wear for everyday I make myself, mostly bias cut a-line 
short or long skirts with elastic waists.  Made many of the dresses myself 
too, usually little 40s styled fit & flared numbers.  Those I don't make I 
find in vintage/thirft stores or in  boutiques or even at target.  I don't 
wear pants or jeans much, I just don't think they're very flattering or 
comfortable.  In the winter I might wear wool men's styled pants but that's 
about it. 

I do sometimes incorporate costume elements into what I'm wearing but mostly 
for special occasions.  A velvet cape or cocoon coat over an evening dresss 
for example.  One outfit got a lot of complements at a lounge show I went to 
was a scarlet teens era jacket with a matching miniskirt I made and red fez. 
I've been known to wear my Victorian or regency dresses to special occasions 
as well.

I think it's great that the girls today are wearing something more orginal 
than the typical boring old prom dress.  Who knows, the recent glut of 
costume movies may inspire a whole new generation of costumers...

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com

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To: H-Needlework@Ansteorra.ORG
Cc: H-Costume@indra.com, nlazarus@home.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: [STEPS] Gold thread
Message-ID: <19990914.120054.4791.3.cley@juno.com>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Please send replies to Rose at nlazarus@home.com, and thank you for your
help! She is not on this list.
		

				yis,
			
					Arlys


--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
To: Naomi Lazarus <nlazarus@home.com>

On Tue, 14 Sep 1999, Naomi Lazarus wrote:
 Does anyone know where I can get _real_ gold thread, suitable for
couching
 and lace-making? I mean actual gold wire, drawn fine enough for these
 purposes? I have a project that I have been going to great lengths to
make
 from period materials, and I would really hate to have to finish it with
 plastic-wrapped cotton-poly crap from the fabric store. I also need a
 price estimate, if that's possible. (This could easily cost more than
 everything else combined.)

___________________________________________________________________
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-Poster: KaosWarior@vcnet.com

>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>I believe that this is not possible in the US/ most of my US bought shirts
>suddenly cease just below the waist; My UK ones have full tails which drape
>in a curve down to mid thigh.. Perhaps this is something that dropped at the
>time of independence. But then you are very particular about your
>politicians.
>Dave
>
>L.D.Mundy

No, it's just that the CEO types feel its wasteful on something that can't be
seen and are so cheap that they don't care about making things well, but cut
corners so they won't have to "cut" into the bottom line  ;-)

just cheap arse bas---ds!


just my $.02
Scott


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <v01530500b4045f96f691@[209.239.238.110]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: "Bum-cleavage"
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



 > -Poster: KaosWarior@vcnet.com
>
 <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
> >
 US bought shirts
> >suddenly cease just below the waist  >
> No, it's just that the CEO types feel its wasteful on something that can't
be
> seen and are so cheap that they don't care about making things well, but
cut
> corners so they won't have to "cut" into the bottom line  ;-)
>
> just cheap arse bas---ds!
>
 AAHa At last the derivation of the this particular well known saying is
made clear to me I thank you.
Dave

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:10:56 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costuming: prof. or amateur
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

          I don't even consider myself worthy of the title yet.  'Nuff
said?  I do it because I am interested in the clothing, and in learning to
sew/tailor better.-- Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 16:01:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:05:51 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan - military buttons
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Another problem with having Queen Bess issue that order is that there
were no military uniforms at that time. Individual comapnies might have
worn some form of their officer's livery, but England itself had no
standing army, so Bess couldn't have mandated anything concerning them.

Karen

On Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:56:47 +0100 "LDMundy"
<dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk> writes:
> 
> -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
> 
> 
>   I have heard this one several times but never traced a source;; 
> Its not
> practical either  else they would be all the way up the arm; 
> soldiers use
> the upper sleeve just like the rest of us.
> Dave>
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
> >
> > I've once again come across the assertion that Elizabeth issued a 
> royal
> > command that military uniforms have a line of buttons on the 
> sleeves to
> > prevent soldiers from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  I've 
> seen
> > this statement several times, but it's never been footnoted to 
> track
> > back to the original.  Fact or folklore?  If fact, where is it
> > documented?
> >
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:14:45 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: (was red head) 1997 list statistics
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 02:34 PM 09/14/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com> In 1997, ... <snip> ... the majority of
people were hobbyist. ... <snip> with California carrying the largest
amount.  
            And red-headed, either by nature or by choice, for the most
part.  Very interesting... what other factors may we find in our
explorations of this topic ?  Carol 

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 99 21:18:17 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com

Ah, maybe you can help me! It sounded like you've done quite a bit of reshaping 
of your Uniquely You

"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
> Some modifications:
> I have reshaped mine somewhat [snipped]

    Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which still needs 
to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think there's a 6" difference at 
the hip, among other areas.
    So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that will hold 
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it, 
obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm not sure that just wrapping 
foam batting/polyfill would be substantial enough.
    Any ideas?
    -Judy Mitchell


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Subject: H-COST: What to Do with a Uniquely You
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 99 14:28:46 -0700
x-sender: gdecamp@shell12.ba.best.com
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-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>


Cynthia Barnes (hi Cin!)  wrote:

>Do not get anything *except* an Uniquely You. They're fantastic!  Expensive,
>tho'. Here's how to share: buy 2 covers for the dummy.  When it's your turn
>w/ the dummy, take your friends cover off, put your cover on.

I respectfully beg to differ; I think that if you try this, you will find 
it a
big pain in the patootie. (Sue Toorans and I ordered one for me, then made
the cover for it and applied the cover to the form in an extended 
two-person
versus-one-dress-dummy wrestling match, complete with grunting, sweating,
struggling, and many more obscenities than I usually admit that I know. )
Now I refuse to lose or gain weight, because if I did we'd have to refit 
the
dang cover and get it back on the dummy. 

My humble opinion: Bite the bullet and buy one for each of you. If you 
can 
find a used  one, you can probably do this cheaply. 

Good luck!

Gail DeCamp




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-Poster: rima@anet.net


>> Karie Mitchell wrote:
>>
>> I have some other questions:
>	1.  How many on this list do costuming professionally?
>	2.  How many are doing this as a hobby?'
>	3.  How many hours do you devote to sewing?

Wow.

1.  Not me.  Although if one more person asks if they can buy my Ca.1550
men's shirt (w/lace and pearls) off my back, I might reconsider!

2.  About two years ago I looked in the mirror and realized I was wearing
GAP.  I had been assimilated by the Borg.   I vowed never to wear jeans and
a T again!   Now I make my own stuff, and since there are hundreds of years
of styles to choose from, I just go for what I like.

Horrifying, I know, to most SCA folks, since I'll wear a 1550 shirt with a
1750 coat (yeah, men's, even though I'm a gal), shoes from 1650 and pants
that just plain work for me. But hey, at least I KNOW it's wrong.  And say
so, if someone asks.

Love those houpelands too!   And those Italian Renaissance
gowns....and....and....

3.  Not enough.  I run two little companies (yeah, two.  *sheesh* what was
I thinking????), so basically I set aside a day a month or so and do
nothing BUT sew.  Wish it were more.  But then I spin and weave too, so
it's amazing I get anything done!  Or that my darling hubby hasn't put me
out!

Hey, any of you pro's out there know where I can find someone to make me a
pair of shoes for me!  Something vaguely Rembrandt/Restoration - heel, high
vamp, square toe?  I've had great luck with folks building shoes for me,
but I can't find anyone who has the wherewithall to do this period.

Thanks guys!  Love reading this list!

Rima


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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Michelle answered me:

>>OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
>>adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
>>she's 4 inches taller and thinner!
>>Rima
>

Yeah, we'll have to get out the tape measure and learn the ugly truth!
Glad to know height won't be a factor, though, since my pal is 4 inches
taller than me!

>   I think it really depends on how much of a size difference there is
>between you. I think most of them are made to cover a small range of sizes.
>Height doesn't matter so much.
>  I was wondering thought,  How are you go to do this without a fight?  I
>don't think I could share. ;) I would want it ALL the time!

LOL!

Well, we're good pals, and have wildly different skeds.  Funny thing is, we
both have teeny cars, both convertibles, so I have a feeling a lot of
people are gonna see us driving down the roads with tops down, and dummy in
the passenger seat!

Zelda asks:

>Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or doublet?  Any advice
>>would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in an authentic manner (if
>>I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun with it!!) or materials or
>>methods to avoid.
>>
>>Zelda
>  Back stitching is a must for the corset.

I've done this.  A long time ago.  Outta time for such things these days.
*sigh*  Actually, I think it's BETTER for really fitted garments, since
handstitching is a little stretchier than machine.

There's a neat little book on handsewing that I got from Townsend.  Sorry,
don't have it in front of me, but it's got everything you need to know, and
cost about $5.

And Carrie says:

>No, I don't own a neon pink spandex crushed velvet minidress...

There, see!  Others have escaped from the Borg too!  ;-D

Rima


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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Merouda answers:

>Gabardine is not a fulled wool but a very fine weave.  My dictionary says that
>it is a worsted cotton, wool, or rayon twill cloth.  Don't know what they
>might
>have called it in the 14th century but twill weaves are certainly appropriate
>for that time.  Very appropriate in fact.

If I remember correctly from my weaving books, fulling showed up, in
England, anyway, around 600.    Somewhere around 1100 (maybe earlier, but I
know they had it by then) they had figured out how to hook up fullers
mallets (for pounding the cloth to "full" but not "felt" it) to waterwheels.

See, after you weave wool, you want to "lock" the fibers together to make
it strong, but you want to do that without "felting" the fabric so you can
no longer see the weave.  Wool reacts to both agitation and especially to
heat.  So, depending on how you agitate, pound, and heat your wool, a
fabric woven one way, but fulled in another can look and feel quite
different from it's sister from the same loom.

Dave said:

>The large bales of wool are supported on slowly rotating beams while being
thumped by huge water driven trip hammers. The whole contraption is built
>over the river  and the bales are constantly wetted ;

That part's right, but:

>I think but I am may be completely wrong that it was here that I was told.-
Human urine was collected from the ale houses to soak the wool in prior to
>fulling and that the best came from the houses where strong ale
>was drunk;
I am trying to remmeber if this is correct or it is a story that I picked up
>somewhere completely different; Any ideas?

Well, urine was collected to make amonia for cleaning in general.   I'm not
sure I'd want to use something that strong on wool.  Maybe MAYBE to wash
the wool before spinning if it were really greasy????  But you'd have to be
careful.  Wool's a pretty delicate fiber.

Someone also asked:

>Can worsted be fulled? I had the impression that it could not.

OK, this one I know:

Worsted has to do with how the thread is spun in the first place.    You
can spin "woolen", in which the ends of the fibers are allowed to stick out
of the thread, or "worsted", in which they  the ends of the fibers are
caught in the twist and few escape to stick out.  Think "fuzzy" and
"slick".  Which is why "worsteds" don't make you itch as much - they don't
have all those fuzzy ends sticking out.

And finally, someone asked if there was a spinner's list.  Probably.  But
there are tons of fiber folks, spinners, weavers, and felters on the
Weaving list. Go to http://www.quilt.net/weaving.html - great bunch o'
folks there.  Just saved my hinie on something I'm about to weave.

Rima
Spiderwoman Weaver and Spinner (with the most yummy merino wool on my wheel
this week, spun "woolen"!)


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Costuming: prof. or amateur
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/1999 11:27:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
janicedals@mediaone.net writes:

<< I suppose I might come under the catagory of talented volunteer,
 as I work with non-profit groups that rarely can afford to pay me.  I've
 gotten the odd honorarium or travel expenses and occasionally get paid
 for a workshop.  My husband is the bread-winner in the family. >>

Like Janice, most of my costuming has been for non-profit groups that pay me 
only a nominal fee, or reimbursement for out-of-pocket.  Recently, however, 
I've been hired for three jobs running which all paid fairly well and were 
very rewarding, but no more so for being paid.  I'd consider Janice a 
professional "semi-professional."  Certainly the ability to do fewer jobs 
well is preferable to me, rather than doing lots of jobs, frantically hoping 
I'm doing them justice, but needing the money.  Not that everyone is in this 
position, but it can happen, given the low pay scale for costumers.

At the end of the day, the main difference seems to be that my patient and 
wonderfully supportive husband feels less stressed out that the (insert 
tremendously costly but marvelously perfect period item) that I purchased 
myself because we just had to have it for the show, didn't cost HIM anything!

I'd do it paycheck or not, but really must say I love the added bonus of 
being compensated on some level for my skills, especially when it gives me 
yet another excuse to support my not insubstantial jewelry/fabric/other 
costuming goodies "habits" !!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"So far as my coin would stretch; and where it would not
I have used my credit."
King Henry the Fourth; I, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 16:58:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:07:38 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 11:22 PM 9/13/99 PDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
>
>Hullo
>
>Delurking a bit here to ask -- What is a sailor's palm and where can I find 
>one? Sounds like it could be something I can really use. I'm one of those 
>people who can't stand to use a thimble. They make my fingertips itch. 
>Besides, I need to actually feel what I'm stitching even if I end up with 
>pock marks in my fingertips (which go away after a while as my sewing 
>calluses begin to build up).
>
>Thanks
>
>Lonna
>
        A palm is sort of a palm thimble, and like any thimble it takes some
practice to get used to.  It has a  strap that fits over the hand.  Usually
that strap is connected by a staple, which is best removed and replaced with
stitches.  They can be got at good ship chandlers (sailing stuff) and some
leatherworking shops, though I understand those are getting harder to find.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 17:25:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other questions.-answers
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:38:31 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

> How many on this list do costuming professionally?

I have occasionally made outfits for sale, but most people just aren't 
willing to pay what it's worth.  I have 'business cards' that I made up 
for personal use so people don't have to write stuff on a scrap of paper 
that'll get lost.  They have my society name, arms, phone number, email 
website, etc.  They also have a little line that says "seamstress 
extraordinaire - custom work at outrageous rates".  Now whenever anyone 
asks me "can you make me that?" I hand them my card.  If they still want 
to talk after reading that, then I'm willing to talk.  (Am I the only 
person who keeps getting asked to make stuff for people who say they're 
willing to pay, but who somehow think they're going to get a houppelande 
for thirty bucks?) 

> How many are doing this as a hobby?

That's what most of my costuming falls under.  Stuff I make for myself 
and my lord for use in the SCA.  An occasional gift for a friend.

> How many hours do you devote to sewing?

As others have said - not nearly enough.  Probably averaging about 8 
hours a month?

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irčne leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 17:25:53 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

... <snip> ... the majority of
>people were hobbyist. ... <snip> with California carrying the largest
>amount.  
>            And red-headed, either by nature or by choice, for the most
>part.  Very interesting... what other factors may we find in our
>explorations of this topic ?  

I'd bet money that a statistically significant number of us are "plus size".

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:08:37 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other costuming questions.-answers
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/1999 3:39:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, irene@ici.net 
writes:

<< (Am I the only 
 person who keeps getting asked to make stuff for people who say they're 
 willing to pay, but who somehow think they're going to get a houppelande 
 for thirty bucks?)  >>

not hardly. I get people who say "I want to hire you, can you make this?" 
etc., and then they say "because I can't afford those Ren Faire prices"  Then 
I have to explain that while I balk at those "prices" it's only because I can 
save the labor if I make it myself. By the time they add my labor back onto 
the materials, they won't save any money hiring a seamstress.

it never hurts to try to educate them, but generally only those with a high 
value on aesthetics shell out the necessary cash.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:09:56 EDT
Subject: H-COST: redhead hobby seamstress (sounds like a personal ad <G>)
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/99 5:41:54 PM Central Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

> I'd bet money that a statistically significant number of us are "plus size".

As a mostly lurker, I thought I'd chime in for a moment:

I am a hobby-seamstress. I mostly sew costumes for my husband, myself and 
various friends for renfaires. However, I've received enough requests for 
garb that I'm considering some simple stuff through the winter to sell to 
newbies as the season starts again.

I spend about 3 hours a week sewing.  If it's not garb, I'm stiching whatever 
is handy to keep my 7 year old in clothes--she has a remarkable way of 
destroying them! I also like to make my own clothes as long as they are not 
too involved-my skill is evolving.

I also do needlework. I'm learning to crochet and do a very simple level of 
blackwork.

I am not "plus size". In fact, I'm the opposite and fall into the petite 
category as I am a mere 5'2", 125 lbs. The thing that throws me when trying 
to purchase clothes (especially underpinnings) is that I am rather "well 
endowed" at 36DD-29-38. The perfect short hourglass <grin>.

I am, however, a redhead by choice! I am a natural dishwater blonde with 
blue/green/grey eyes depending on my mood. I've been an auburn redhead for 
about 5 years and don't know if I will ever go back. (I've known my DH only 2 
years--wonder what he'd think if I came home blonde??)

I'm truly enjoying this thread. It's nice to have mental pictures of those of 
you from whom I gather advice. It's even more rewarding to learn that a 
majority of this list are professional or semi- or mostly-professional 
seamstresses.

DaniG
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 17:59:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:17:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: off topic: a new toy
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


I just aquired (rather unexpectedly) a used New Home "streamliner" sewing
machine (a word of advice: don't buy sewing machines from thrift stores if
you don't have a car and your destination is several blocks away...) and I
find I know nothing really about the thing.  Has anybody had good or bad
experiences with one? Can anyone offer advice or a source for an
instruction manual? It works smoothly and quietly, and seems pretty
straight forward, but I'm curious about the thing.

Thanks for your time
Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:08:26 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Dimensions for Hedeby Dress Fragment?
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:22:08 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

I'm hoping someone will be able to help me with an obscure question.

I know that a fragment of a garment was found at an archeological dig at 
Hedeby.  I know it is widely believed to be from a Viking-era apron or 
tube dress, and I've heard different theories on how the dress should be 
reconstructed from this fragment.  The fragment in question looks 
approximately like so (bad ASCII art follows)

----------
|        |
|        |
|        |
|        |
|         \
|          \
|           \
|            \
|             \
|              \
|               \
-----------------

What I'm wondering is.. ..  Does anyone have any references that give the 
dimensions of this fragment?



Jessica Clark
SCA: Irčne leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:08:28 1999
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From: "Andrea navin" <medea6186@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: local medieval shop
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:21:46 EDT
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-Poster: "Andrea navin" <medea6186@hotmail.com>


You know what? That is a good question! Nothing really "authentic" (zippers 
anyone?). I think I will have to take a field trip down their this weekend 
(hopefully if I have time)! Oh what fun it will be to freak out the sales 
people with my clipboard and pencil:" Do you have any documentation for this 
outfit?"
Even better: I should bring a SCA-er with me!

Andrea (Maybe I'' hit the Victorian shop as well!)

But what, please tell, is sold at a "local
>medieval shop"? We don't have any around here, and I am dying to know!

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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <d4480e85.25102f75@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other costuming questions.-answers
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 17:35:39 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

> In a message dated 9/14/1999 3:39:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
irene@ici.net
> writes:
>
> << (Am I the only
>  person who keeps getting asked to make stuff for people who say they're
>  willing to pay, but who somehow think they're going to get a houppelande
>  for thirty bucks?)  >>

   By no means!  I make Elizabethan shirts for my DH - blackworked collars,
cuffs, shirtfronts; counted-by-thread pleats; embellished seams, every
single
stitch by hand, every blackwork design original and never worked again
(I usually really really HATE that pattern after finishing one garment with
it<G>)
an average of 300-400 hours of work.  Someone admires it and then adds
"what would you charge for one just like that?  Fifty bucks?"
   Um, sorry, but my great-great grandma made a better wage than that doing
piecework for southern cotton mills.......<G>

Liadain

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:11:17 1999
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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:20:04 +1000
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999, KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:

> 
> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
> 
Finally catching up on these wonderful posts.

I have butt-length black hair (from a bottle) which presently has 4 blue
full length hair extensions in it - not the plaited ones, but they are long
and straight. My hair is naturly wavy.

I tend to also dress in long skirts - the longer the better. I'm always very
careful on the stairs at work to hold the hems up, as other people have a
habit of stepping on them.

I tend to favour more hourglass shapes, as it's what I have. I'd love to be
able to wear 20s, but my bust is waaaay to big for that. I wear black and
purple (yep, a goth). Lately I've been wearing a lot of 50s stuff - it's
still available in bigger sizes (yay). I also wear granny boots 99% of the
time, mostly as I have very bad arthritic ankles, and shoes just plain hurt.

For dressing up, my favourite is to mix and match modern and older clothes
to make a kind of fairy tale Victorian. Work usually finds me in a very long
skirt and tshirt, or sometimes a shirt, or long, flowing dresses. Most of my
sewing is costuming, but I'm trying to find time to make mundane stuff - the
prices in dept. stores are just *too* scary. If I do buy 'off the rack'
items, they are most likely from the ethnic-hippy stores - the kind that
make a fortune out of long velvet and crinkle rayon dresses.

Cheers
Georgia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:17:15 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <trekona@erols.com>, "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:29:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>

 Joan  >>> So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that
will hold
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it,
obviously I can't just patch it here and there.

I just snipped & tucked & wrapped.  Didnt glue.  Personally, I'd experiment
w/ white glue for several reasons: it's water soluble (and therefore
undo-able), it's likely to be non-reactive as there are no alcohols, esters
or other solvents of plastics in it.  White glue wont be very pliable, so
this might not be a good solution in some body areas.  Experiment!

Wrapped w/ cotton quilt batt & medical tape - sticks to lots of stuff and
it's a throwaway solution to what are, for me, temporary adjustments.

I still havent got the perfect solution for making my Uniquely You emulate
the same amount of "dropped waist" that I have.  This is a common dancer's
fit problem.  The CF waist is slightly (~1") lower than the CB waist line.
Hanging skirts on grain on a dropped waist can be challenging.  It's even
harder when your dummy doesnt match the "target" body shape.

Grrrrrrrrr,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."


------------------------------

From: trekona@erols.com
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 99 21:18:17 GMT
Subject: Re: H-COST: What to do with a Uniquely You

- -Poster: trekona@erols.com

Ah, maybe you can help me! It sounded like you've done quite a bit of
reshaping
of your Uniquely You

"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
> Some modifications:
> I have reshaped mine somewhat [snipped]

    Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which still
needs
to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think there's a 6" difference
at
the hip, among other areas.
    So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that will
hold
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it,
obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm not sure that just
wrapping
foam batting/polyfill would be substantial enough.
    Any ideas?
    -Judy Mitchell


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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:19:50 1999
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To: <trekona@erols.com>
Cc: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:31:51 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


 Joan  >>> So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that
will hold
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it,
obviously I can't just patch it here and there.

I just snipped & tucked & wrapped.  Didnt glue.  Personally, I'd experiment
w/ white glue for several reasons: it's water soluble (and therefore
undo-able), it's likely to be non-reactive as there are no alcohols, esters
or other solvents of plastics in it.  White glue wont be very pliable, so
this might not be a good solution in some body areas.  Experiment!

Wrapped w/ cotton quilt batt & medical tape - sticks to lots of stuff and
it's a throwaway solution to what are, for me, temporary adjustments.

I still havent got the perfect solution for making my Uniquely You emulate
the same amount of "dropped waist" that I have.  This is a common dancer's
fit problem.  The CF waist is slightly (~1") lower than the CB waist line.
Hanging skirts on grain on a dropped waist can be challenging.  It's even
harder when your dummy doesnt match the "target" body shape.

Grrrrrrrrr,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."


------------------------------

From: trekona@erols.com
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 99 21:18:17 GMT
Subject: Re: H-COST: What to do with a Uniquely You

- -Poster: trekona@erols.com

Ah, maybe you can help me! It sounded like you've done quite a bit of
reshaping
of your Uniquely You

"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
> Some modifications:
> I have reshaped mine somewhat [snipped]

    Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which still
needs
to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think there's a 6" difference
at
the hip, among other areas.
    So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that will
hold
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it,
obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm not sure that just
wrapping
foam batting/polyfill would be substantial enough.
    Any ideas?
    -Judy Mitchell


 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:23:14 1999
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 14 Sep 1999 trekona@erols.com wrote:

> 
> 
>     Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which still needs 
> to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think there's a 6" difference at 
> the hip, among other areas.
>     So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that will hold 
> but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it, 
> obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm not sure that just wrapping 
> foam batting/polyfill would be substantial enough.
You should look for a glue designed specifically for plastic, or a kind
called 'polystyrene cement'. If it's not available in the usual sort of
places try looking for it in model shops. 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Status:  hobby or professional?
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:43:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>>I have some other questions:
>>How many on this list do costuming professionally?

>>How many hours do you devote to sewing?

I'm what you might call "semi-pro."  I do commission work and sell clothing
in the SCA, but it's not my main occupation.  Dress is, however, one of my
scholarly research interests, and if some university decides to hire me, I
guess I'll be partially a professional costume historian....

>>How many hours do you devote to sewing?


It's sporadic, but several hours a week (especially if you count needlework
in there--I've always got a project on the go on the nightstand).

Susan

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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I'm a pro, have been for about 17 years. You can tell by the threadbare
clothes,white never seen the light of day complexion, callouses on my
fingers and the permanently hungry expression. Oh and the fact that this
is my only social life as  I can't afford another.
My advice to anyone thinking of turning pro don't do it unless you have
a rich partner your own house no mortage etc and a law degree

Yours Cynically

Dawn

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