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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I'm curious about just what you Americans do in all these Hallowe'en costumes. Is wearing them to work as some people have mentioned a common practice?
Hallowe'en is not a big deal here in Britain, perhaps because we have Guy Fawkes Day less than a week after. You can buy pumpkins nowadays (turnip lanterns are the traditional British version, but they are harder to carve as I remember from once having tried). I once dressed as a witch for a party (put a black paper cone over the crown of a black straw hat),  but it wasn't a regular event. Some children have latched on to the "trick or treat" business in recent years, but I've never heard of there being any flurry of costume making - I think they just buy masks or use face paint.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 10:08:49 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 10:24:07 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991130203641.3afff822@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> I also use the freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw method to kill off any little pests
> without using chemicals. Those of you in the far north or at higher
> altitudes have a larger area to use <g>, I'm limited by the size of my
> freezer but you can use a backyard clothes line or unheated storage shed.
> For my wool blankets, I put them dry(!) in my clothes dryer on high heat for
> 30 minutes or so. The dry heat doesn't hurt the blankets, but kills the
> pests, and the tumbling beats out any dirt and fluffs up the blankets nicely.

Be aware that while this may work on moths, it may not necessarily work on
all the pests you want to get rid of.  My grandfather was experimenting
with methods of killing  ticks (I know, a completely different arthropod)
and put a bunch in the freezer.  He forgot about them.  *FOUR YEARS*
later, he re-discovered them, thawed them out, and they walked away.  

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 11:04:52 1999
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From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Mothballs
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

One thing I've found out.  Never put mothballs in a cedar chest.  It
makes a foul odor and the balls combine with the cedar permanently.  My
husband had to sand the crystalizing off and shellac and I'm still not
sure if the chest will be useable.  I use the natural repellants and
cedar bags now.  It can be impossible to get the odor of mothballs out
of some clothes.
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston,MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 11:19:35 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 09:18:32 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

YES...   I just sent a message about them to the list yestreday but it seems
to have been lost in the shuffle.
I use cedar balls all the time now and am replacing the moth balls - which I
used to use by leaving them in the bag them came in and punching holes in it
with an ice pick... that way they did not come in comtact with the fabric.  
Cedar balls seem to work better, but here again I keep them on the sides so
that do not have direct contact with abric.  I am not sure that is
necessary, just being careful.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
>Date: Wed, Dec 1, 1999, 5:19 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that
>cedar balls (or blocks or chips) that are sanded occasionally to
>'freshen' them, work as moth repellents.
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 11:34:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:50:21 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
>YES...   I just sent a message about them to the list yestreday but it seems
>to have been lost in the shuffle.
>I use cedar balls all the time now and am replacing the moth balls - which I
>used to use by leaving them in the bag them came in and punching holes in it
>with an ice pick... that way they did not come in comtact with the fabric.
>Cedar balls seem to work better, but here again I keep them on the sides so
>that do not have direct contact with abric.  I am not sure that is
>necessary, just being careful.
>~!~ R.L.Shep
>http://www.rlshep.com
>
Good idea!  I've seen damage done to clothing and quilts kept in cedar
chests because of the oils in the wood.

I use lavendar in fabric bags kept near, but not on, my feathers and fur.
I also have a very fancy, expensive feather mask.  When I bought it a
couple of years ago, the artist told me to keep the mask in a plastic bag
with a fabric bag of lavendar - but not touching the feathers.  The
lavendar will keep the feather mites away, but the oils in the lavendar
could harm the feathers.  Whether he meant the dyes n the feathers or the
feathers themselves I don't know.  Doesn't matter much.  I wear it a couple
times a year and check it every quarter - no damage at all.  The plus with
the lavendar is that the smell of the chemicals used on the feathers has
diminished since I first wore it.  It smelled so strongly at first I
couldn't wear the mask for long but now it's fine.

lynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 11:48:22 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Moth balls
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:57:30 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I've had things turn up with "moth" (or something) holes more than once no
matter how often they've been to the cleaners.  Sounds like wishful thinking
or marketting from the dry cleaning industry to me.  

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Russell Hedges[SMTP:russellh@home.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, November 30, 1999 8:02 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Moth balls
> 
> 
> -Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
> 
> 
> 
> "Marsha J. Hamilton" wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
> > 
> > >We put an open box of mothballs in the cupboard to
> > >keep the beasties away.....
> > -------------------------
> 
> <snip>
> 
> > 
> > There may be a thread on this in the archives but do others
> > know whether moth balls should be a no-no?  Especially for
> > delicate historical pieces?  Thanks.
> > 
> 
> I was told that moths go for clothing that has not been cleaned.  A dry
> cleaning before storage would therefore be sufficient to protect
> clothing from the ravages of moths.
> 
> I cannot tell you where I heard that. Does anyone know if it's true?  I
> have been relying on it for a while now.  I hope it's right.
> 
> Russell Hedges
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 12:43:04 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: frog closures
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 10:59:11 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>My daughter asked today why they are called frog closures and I realized
that I don't really know.  Does anyone know?

Frog princes found them fashionable. <grin>
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 13:22:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 14:36:14 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: Jeanne d'Arc/Chas de Blois pourpoint
To: Marfice_Joseph_P@cat.com, Gaelscot@aol.com, h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Broom:

Yes, he did reproduce this garment, using the Charles le Blois pattern as a 
general idea (as someone on the list suggested). It's great. The standing 
collar is short, though, and we don't have the cool back to it -- just a 
mandarin type collar. Anyway, you missed it but we discussed this on the list 
a few weeks ago. Those sleeves are FANTASTIC, they give you great mobility. 
Plus, of course, they look great. Try it!

Gail

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 13:47:54 1999
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From: joanj@quiknet.com
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CC: 
Subject: RE: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
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-Poster: joanj@quiknet.com


In order to keep the camphor or moth balls or whatever away from
direct contact with the clean fabric (wool *and* silk), feathers,
or leather (*another* animal product I use a lot of) items being
protected, I put the moth-killer in a small glass (not plastic!)
jar with the metal (not plastic!) lid slightly loosened.  That
way the vapors can escape, but the solid chemical or oils are
kept away from the protected items.  You can tuck the little
bottle in amongst the items for the best protection. and if necessary,
you can use more than one bottle for a very large storage container.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA, aka moth and beetle breeding grounds

--- Original Message ---
"R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> Wrote on 
Wed, 01 Dec 1999 09:18:32 -0800
 ------------------ 

YES...   I just sent a message about them to the list yestreday
but it seems
to have been lost in the shuffle.
I use cedar balls all the time now and am replacing the moth
balls - which I
used to use by leaving them in the bag them came in and punching
holes in it
with an ice pick... that way they did not come in comtact with
the fabric.  
Cedar balls seem to work better, but here again I keep them on
the sides so
that do not have direct contact with abric.  I am not sure that
is
necessary, just being careful.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
>Date: Wed, Dec 1, 1999, 5:19 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression
that
>cedar balls (or blocks or chips) that are sanded occasionally
to
>'freshen' them, work as moth repellents.
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 17:00:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 15:18:22 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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To: SCA Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>, Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: my new belt
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

If you go to this website  http://sites.netscape.net/ksca/beltsets
and scroll to the last belt on the page you will see the belt I
commissioned and received in the mail yesterday.  I wore it all night
over my sweats.  *GGGGGGGG*

It is lovely (I think) and is a replica of a 14th century belt down to
the color of the leather.  It has sterling silver sexfoils around the
waist and a lovely brass pouch hanger that you can see at
http://www.medievalwares.com/medieval_belt_mounts.htm if you scroll
down to pouch hangers. The gentleman who made this is quite talented,
quite reasonable, and *nice* to boot.  The same can be said the
gentleman who made the pouch hanger.  Both do period work based on
artifacts and scholarly research.  And I highly recommend them.

No benefits for me, just a highly satisfied customer,
Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 17:25:04 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 15:37:12 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: my new belt
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  If you go to this website  http://sites.netscape.net/ksca/beltsets
>  and scroll to the last belt on the page you will see the belt I
>  commissioned and received in the mail yesterday.  I wore it all night
>  over my sweats.  *GGGGGGGG*

My, that is a fine one! And your metalsmith invited one and all to the An
Tir 12th Night to see it. Wasn't that nice!  
So, when should we show up, and is it pot-luck? ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 17:43:28 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: my new belt
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Wow!! I am impressed with these and now can't wait to order one myself.
Thanks for the url.
Carol Ross

>
>>  If you go to this website  http://sites.netscape.net/ksca/beltsets
>>  and scroll to the last belt on the page you will see the belt I
>>  commissioned and received in the mail yesterday.  I wore it all night
>>  over my sweats.  *GGGGGGGG*
>
>
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 18:27:56 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> My, that is a fine one! And your metalsmith invited one and all to the An
> Tir 12th Night to see it. Wasn't that nice!
> So, when should we show up, and is it pot-luck? ;)

Heh heh.  Originally that was the project deadline, Jan. 6th.  But alas, I
can no longer attend 12th Night.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 21:20:45 1999
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kat & Kent wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that
> cedar balls (or blocks or chips) that are sanded occasionally to
> 'freshen' them, work as moth repellents.

I've always heard that as well, Kat.  In fact, when I refinished the
cedar chest my mother sent me the last thing I did was take a fine grit
sand paper to the interior.  I store my vintage stuff in it now (all
wrapped in acid free tissue or cotton sheets).

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 21:22:56 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 19:40:30 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

I store some of my less-used costumes in a shed in the back of the
garage - lots of spiders but I'm not sure about moths.  But they're in
garment bags inside one of those covered portable closets, and I have an
old sock full of moth balls hanging from the rod. It needs refilling
periodically but seems to work fine.

I wish I'd known about the lavendar - I just trimmed my lavendar bushes
this last weekend.

Carolyn
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:24 AM 12/1/99 -0600, Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
>
>-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>
>
>> I also use the freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw method to kill off any little pests
>> without using chemicals. Those of you in the far north or at higher
>> altitudes have a larger area to use <g>, I'm limited by the size of my
>> freezer but you can use a backyard clothes line or unheated storage shed.
>> For my wool blankets, I put them dry(!) in my clothes dryer on high heat for
>> 30 minutes or so. The dry heat doesn't hurt the blankets, but kills the
>> pests, and the tumbling beats out any dirt and fluffs up the blankets nicely.
>
>Be aware that while this may work on moths, it may not necessarily work on
>all the pests you want to get rid of.  My grandfather was experimenting
>with methods of killing  ticks (I know, a completely different arthropod)
>and put a bunch in the freezer.  He forgot about them.  *FOUR YEARS*
>later, he re-discovered them, thawed them out, and they walked away.  
>
>Emma

But *ticks* don't eat dead animal protein! All I am trying to do is protect
my fabric, feathers, and leather stuff <VBG>. You usually find ticks
attached to you or a companion animal...not your clothes. (And yes, we have
lots of ticks in California, though I have not personally had to deal with
them, thank heaven!)

Hoping you all are able to keep the pests, of whatever kind, under control,

 
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 22:48:36 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Ok, this is going to sound weird but is the moth problem a regional problem
because here in Texas I haven't had any problems with it at all.
Carol Ross

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 00:15:52 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: was (no subject) now American Girl dolls 
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 22:32:10 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>

Re: American Girl dolls

 A few days ago, Heidi Fox  wrote: 
> Thanks for that correction Sally!  I thought the whole series of books
was great, and am glad to hear someone else's opinion.  I have yet to see
the dolls.

The dolls are lovely, a bit on the pricey side if you are looking for
inexpensive dolls, but on the lower end of the really nice dolls.  One
particular thing about the A.M. dolls, you can order one with the same
color skin, eyes, and hair as the young lady it is intended for.  The
various ethnic combinations are fairly true to nature -- there are a
variety of colors of skin, almond shaped eyes, straight, curly and very
curly hair.  The dolls are sturdy enough to be played with, and now several
pattern companies have patterns for this size doll.  This all after my
daughter has set her dolls carefully on a shelf.  

Islyle
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 05:37:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 11:52:02 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: V-back collars/pourpoints
In-reply-to: <199912010459.VAA03524@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Cynthia

> I'm not clear on what you're describing.  Do you have a shallow V
> collar only? Is there a big-V inset & little V collar?  Do you use a
> single piece for the garment back or is there a CB seam up to the V?
> The V-collar+inset that I copied from Harmand is about 5-6" from top
> of collar to the point of the V seamline.  How deep is the V you're
> describing?

Sorry, I probably wasn't very clear.  I'm describing a stand collar 
that is set into a nexk-hole that is round (follows the base of the 
neck) at the front of the garment and and a V at the back.  I fhtere 
is a standard size of that V, I don't know what it is.  It appears to 
differ a bit from person-to-person/garment-to-garment, judging by 
the pictures I've seen it appear in.  The ones I've done (so far) ave 
all been between 5 and 7 inches from top of collar to pint of V (the 
height of the collar itself being the varying factor here as I've used 
the same V on all of them so far - it works and I'm not going to alter 
that bit unless I *have* to...<g>)

Made them both with one piece collars (no seam at centre back) 
and 2 piece (seam at centre back) as well as a 4 piece (seams at 
side of neck as well as centre back - it was a parti-coloured 
garent), it doesn't make any difference to the method of doing it as 
I made up the collar into one piece and lined/interlined it *before* 
fitting it tinot the neckline.

All of the garments I've used these collars on have a centre back 
seam, as do *most* of the paintings/pictures I've seen that show it. 
 But I have seen some that don't show a centre back seam on the 
garment (from memory, I think I've seen one that shows a centre 
back seam on the collar but not on the garment - but that's a vague 
memory from somewhere and I could be wrong)!

The low necked (collarless) garments I mentioned are over 
garments usually worn over other garments with stand-collars.  
They are just v-back shaped neckholes, sometimes edged in fur (or 
with fur lining showing around them)

Hope this helps






Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: was (no subject) now American Girl dolls 
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

My big reservation with the dolls, even though they are beautiful and very 
well-made, is the price.  I know that, as a girl, I would have wanted one 
desperately, but there is no way my family could have afforded one.  When I 
expressed this reservation to one of the Pleasant Company people (three years 
ago), she made some comment about there being grandmothers.  Well, I only had 
one living grandmother, and she was on a fixed income, so she couldn't have 
bought me one either.
I have bought two, much less expensive, 18" dolls and am making clothes for 
them clothes.  I will be giving them to Toys for Tots.  I will say that 
clothes for 18" dolls are much easier to make than Barbie-doll size.
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002501bf3c82$0ec575a0$0200a8c0@mamabear.stormypetrel.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 12:18:28 -0000
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 -----
From: Genevieve de Courtanvaux <gdc@airmail.net>
 >
> -Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
>
> Ok, this is going to sound weird but is the moth problem a regional problem
> because here in Texas I haven't had any problems with it at all.
> Carol Ross
  I think that the US might just have pockets ( no pun ) where the problem
exists/
According to my enty-?ist  friend the major culprit, the clothes moth has long
since died out in the UK( and poss Europe), although there are smaller moths
( and one beatle, that evidently likes nylon) ) that may take ocassional
advantage of clothes, they can do nothing like the  tremendous damage that the
original pest could; This had to be seen to be believed- clothes would be
practically shredded and unrecognisasable after  a month or so ( showing my
age).
Our moth balls have also died out; they were made of napthalene, which was a
terrible white stuff that leaked from pipes during the processing of Town gas-
now we use North Sea Gas which doesnt  produce it. It is most probably illegal
as well.
Something ironic about the fact that both beast and cure are no more; but I
cant quite put my finger on it ; too early to be metaphysical.
I hope that nobody goes to the trouble of genetically engineering something
that eats Lycra- boy would some of us be in trouble;

Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 08:14:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 09:22:19 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

I'm really cheap, um, thrifty.  Instead of buying closet cedar hanger
thingies at $3 for a 3x5" piece of wood, I buy a big bag of cedar
hampster bedding, and make sachets out of muslin.  Total cost: $4 or so;
and you can get about 50 hand-sized sachets to scatter everywhere.

cv
---
  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 08:39:47 1999
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From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Clothes beasties OT
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>the clothes moth has long since died out in the UK (and poss Europe)...
--------------------

Question from the U.S. to the U.K....
Correct me if I'm wrong--the clothes moth has died out, no rabies,
you don't have killer tornados every spring and fall, the mosquitos aren't
the size of humming birds, hurricanes don't wipe out your coastal cities,
your temperatures don't vary from -20 to 100 degrees F with 99% humidity,
you don't have major droughts that turn everything into a dust bowl, no
massive fields of ragweed and other allergens everywhere....

I can't decide if it's idyllic or downright unchallenging!  

But I do wonder how UK folks keep natural fibers from deteriorating in
all the damp.  Or is it only damp in Scotland (where the towels never
seemed to dry out while I was on vacation there?).
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From: "Patricia Szekely" <a.szekely@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Scotish resources
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 09:56:08 -0500
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-Poster: "Patricia Szekely" <a.szekely@worldnet.att.net>

Just wondering if anyone can direct me to resources for Scotland.  In
particular Scottish ladies in the late 16th century.  Can be highland or
lowland or whatever.  I am just starting, and need all of the references I
can get.

Thanks in advance : )

Tricia

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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 15:31:40 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>



> - -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 -----
From: Genevieve de Courtanvaux <gdc@airmail.net>

>  I think that the US might just have pockets ( no pun ) where the
> problem exists/ According to my enty-?ist  friend the major
> culprit, the clothes moth has long since died out in the UK( and
> poss Europe),

Really?  Are you *sure,* Dave?  In which case,  what was it that 
infested my place (along with carpet-beetle) a couple of years 
ago??

My entamologist/animal-biologist flatmate identified both the moth 
and the carpet beetle for me and I had a major panic about my poor 
fabrics and costumes...  All sorted now thanks to some nasty stuff 
from the local vet, but worrying for a while.

> - -Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton"
> <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu> 
 
> Question from the U.S. to the U.K....
> Correct me if I'm wrong--the clothes moth has died out, no rabies, you
> don't have killer tornados every spring and fall, the mosquitos aren't
> the size of humming birds, hurricanes don't wipe out your coastal
> cities, your temperatures don't vary from -20 to 100 degrees F with
> 99% humidity, you don't have major droughts that turn everything into
> a dust bowl, no massive fields of ragweed and other allergens
> everywhere....
> 
> I can't decide if it's idyllic or downright unchallenging!  

Ahh, but we have other challenges, like American actors who 
*think* they can do English accents (anyone watch "Buffy"?) and 
MacDonalds.

> But I do wonder how UK folks keep natural fibers from
> deteriorating in all the damp.  Or is it only damp in Scotland
> (where the towels never seemed to dry out while I was on vacation
> there?). 

Perhaps you just came at a bad time or were in a particularly damp 
region - I've never had any problems with my cotton, linen or silk, 
even when visiting Scotland.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: "V. =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9e?= Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

I was *so* hoping someone else would ask this!  Along the U.S. Gulf Coast and thereabouts, we have
awful problems with an as-yet unmentioned (unless I missed it) beastie...roaches.  Ugh!

I'm told these nasty critters are frequently responsible for holes in garments...especially garments
stored without prior cleaning.  (A little hole in a acetate velvet dress was blamed on a roach
munching away a spot of spilled food.  Shudder...visions of insect parties in my closet at night!)

Any possible truth to this?  And do moth balls / cedar / lavendar repel roaches?  Thanks, Renee (in
humid Houston, Texas)



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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I have bought two, much less expensive, 18" dolls and am making clothes for 
>them clothes.

Some of the big pattern companies also have patterns for cloth dolls that
wear the same size as American Girl.  I made a "Betsy McCall" (remember
her?) doll to use as a mannequin when I made the Elizabethan gown for my
cousin's doll.  This would also be a good period-ish compromise for
reenacting situations where yuou don't want to have girls carrying their
vinyl dolls around.  

Margo


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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

> 
> Ahh, but we have other challenges, like American actors who 
> *think* they can do English accents (anyone watch "Buffy"?) and 
> MacDonalds.

Yes, but we have those challenges in the US, too!  =)

--Jessica
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
> I'm really cheap, um, thrifty.  Instead of buying closet cedar hanger
> thingies at $3 for a 3x5" piece of wood, I buy a big bag of cedar
> hampster bedding, and make sachets out of muslin.  Total cost: $4 or so;
> and you can get about 50 hand-sized sachets to scatter everywhere.
>
> cv
  I did this a while back with swatches. I was given a stack of brocade
upholstery swatches, some pieces were up to 8" by 12", which had little to
no use from a costuming perspective.  So, I made beanbag size cedar sachets
to throw in the dresser drawers and my garb boxes.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 11:56:40 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: V-back collars/pourpoints
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 10:11:24 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Teddy said> I'm describing a stand collar that is set into a nexk-hole that
is round (follows the base of the neck) at the front of the garment and and
a V at the back.

OK, that's pretty much what I was working on, too.  If you dont do a CB seam
in the V-inset, how do you get it to "stand" at the back?

Teddy said> It appears to differ a bit from
person-to-person/garment-to-garment, judging by the pictures I've seen it
appear in.  The ones I've done (so far) ave all been between 5 and 7 inches
from top of collar to pint of V (the height of the collar itself being the
varying factor here as I've used the same V on all of them so far - it works
and I'm not going to alter that bit unless I *have* to...<g>)

Yes, I agree.  More so in implementation.  This is quite clear, from my
previous (modern) tailoring experiences.  Collars can be so fiddley with the
amount of lordosis vs vertical posture, forward/bkwd thrust shoulders, neck
length, etc.  I like the CB seam in the collar if only because that makes
the entire CB a fitting seam.  Might be reasonable to use the CB collar seam
in muslins, but not in the finished product if the resulting patterm
permitted.

Thanks for the ideas, Teddy.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Scotish resources
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 10:33:26 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I have a reasonable but probably a bit out of date (we can hope)
bibliography, but of course it's at home.  If you'll email me there and
remind me, I'll try to dig it out for you.  There are also some links from
the Compendium web site Links page (ren.dm.net/links) that should go where
you want to go.  

MaggiRos
NOVLThorn@aol.com

> ----------
> From: 	Patricia Szekely[SMTP:a.szekely@worldnet.att.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 02, 1999 6:56 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Scotish resources
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Patricia Szekely" <a.szekely@worldnet.att.net>
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can direct me to resources for Scotland.  In
> particular Scottish ladies in the late 16th century.  Can be highland or
> lowland or whatever.  I am just starting, and need all of the references I
> can get.
> 
> Thanks in advance : )
> 
> Tricia
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 12:54:54 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 11:15:55 -0800
Subject: H-COST: WTO - very OT
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3026978155_188157_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

If you are not interested - delete this - but I think it is important for
everyone to know what is happening in Seattle. 

I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be a trouble
spot.
But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the TV.  There are
pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations.  I watch all of it.
The police are PIGS.  It is bad enough that they will not allow people to
protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules.  They set up
a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest people OUTSIDE of
that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed trying to get home
from work.
AND the things that they have been doing on Capital Hill at night are beyond
belief.
I really would like to know why they make it a point of beating women and
obviously gay men on Capital Hill.  People who are doing nothing but walking
from one place to another.  This is not a *no protest zone* this is
basically a residential - known gay - area.
I am FURIOUS.  It is best that I stay far away from it all.
The ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD.  
I will be glad when this is all over.  But it won't really be over because
the mayor and the police have a lot to answer for and I am sure that people
here will not let them forget it.

~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com


--MS_Mac_OE_3026978155_188157_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>WTO - very OT</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>If you are not interested - delete this - but I think it=
 is important for everyone to know what is happening in Seattle. <BR>
<BR>
</FONT>I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be a tr=
ouble<BR>
spot.<BR>
But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the TV.  There are<BR>
pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations.  I watch all of it.<BR>
The police are PIGS.  It is bad enough that they will not allow people to<B=
R>
protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules.  They set up=
<BR>
a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest people OUTSIDE of=
<BR>
that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed trying to get home fr=
om work.<BR>
AND the things that they have been doing on Capital Hill at night are beyon=
d<BR>
belief.<BR>
I really would like to know why they make it a point of beating women and<B=
R>
obviously gay men on Capital Hill.  People who are doing nothing but walkin=
g<BR>
from one place to another.  This is not a *no protest zone* this is<BR>
basically a residential - known gay - area.<BR>
I am FURIOUS.  It is best that I stay far away from it all.<BR>
The ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD.  <BR>
I will be glad when this is all over.  But it won't really be over because<=
BR>
the mayor and the police have a lot to answer for and I am sure that people=
<BR>
here will not let them forget it.<BR>
<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
<FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"><U>http://www.rlshep.com</U></FONT><BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3026978155_188157_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 13:25:25 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: To mothball or not to mothball?
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 14:32:26 -0500 
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>


	Coming out of lurking to add to the mothball discussion.  I have an
interest in the work of museum conservators, and although I  am not one; I
have been a member of their newsgroup for several years.  I checked the
archives for pertinent info on mothballs.  

> Mothballs are of two types, those made of PDB (paradichlorbenzene) and
> those of naphthalene. A conservator at the Smithsonian wrote that
> Naphthalene only covers the smell of material that insects are looking for
> and therefore it is "hidden" from them.  Napthalene does not kill insects.
> I would guess that cedar and lavender probably also hides the odor of
> delicious animal materials (wool, feathers, leather, taxidermy specimens
> and furs, etc) from hungry insects.
> 
	PDB will kill them if in the right concentration and conditions
(Your items and the PDB must be in an airtight container -- cedar chests
rarely are).  PDB has been suspect for causing health problems (if it kills
bugs -- what else will be effected?).  For very thorough information on
moths and  their control you may want to check this website:

> http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef609.htm
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 13:53:19 1999
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From: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 12:10:31 PST
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-Poster: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>


Greetings,

I work in an office in downtown Seattle, about 100 yards from where 
everything has been going on. It is very freaky to have police in riot gear 
and national guard camped out on my street, asking me where I am going every 
time I leave the building. My boss got teargassed on his way home last 
night.

About 90% of the protestors are very peaceable and march without violence (I 
saw people in sea turtle costumes yesterday... I almost ran over to them to 
see how they had made the costumes). The last 10% seem to be made up of 
people who really want to cause trouble for no reason other than to do it. 
The police, while having a mandate to keep things orderly, simply are not 
able to effectively handle this violent 10% and have ended up messing with 
people who are merely onlookers or minding their own business. Very 
unfortunate and stupid.

Oh... yeah... the President drove by my office this morning and waved to 
me...

This situation is so weird and so not Seattle...

Laurellen
mka Tammie L. Dupuis

www.vertetsable.com
The Renaissance Tailor

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 15:29:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 16:42:58 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/02/1999 3:14:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com writes:

<< This situation is so weird and so not Seattle. >>

Too much Starbucks coffee, perhaps.

To put in a historical perspective ....I remember as a kid in Greensboro, NC 
machine guns on the tops of buildings and National Guard marching & 
patrolling around. This was the early 60s and they thought because of the 
Woolworth's sit-in in the 50s that Greensboro would be the scene of major 
race riots. Of course protesting over equal rights I can understand better 
than what's going on in Seattle. They all look like they're wearing parkas 
made in Indonesia anyway. But then I know zero about the WTO. Maybe this will 
get me and others to find something out.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 16:56:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 23:33:53 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I spoke to my friend about this. He is THE plumemaker to many MOD's
around the world and he doesn't use anything at all.
I use herbal balls made from lavender,rosemary,sage and some other herbs

Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 17:15:32 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 15:23:52 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Is the lavendar a specific for moths, or does it matter?

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Dawn[SMTP:dawn.wood1@virgin.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 02, 1999 11:33 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
> 
> 
> -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> 
> I spoke to my friend about this. He is THE plumemaker to many MOD's
> around the world and he doesn't use anything at all.
> I use herbal balls made from lavender,rosemary,sage and some other herbs
> 
> Dawn
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 00:05:35 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> 
> Is the lavendar a specific for moths, or does it matter? 
It apparently was used a great deal for moth as was rosemary, with the
added advantage that they smell nice. I have several old herbals which
mention them. I also like cedar wood and wouldn't but a mothball near
anything I wanted to wear as it affects my breathing

Dawn
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> > ----------
> > From:         Dawn[SMTP:dawn.wood1@virgin.net]
> > Reply To:     h-costume@indra.com
> > Sent:         Thursday, December 02, 1999 11:33 PM
> > To:   h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject:      Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
> >
> >
> > -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> >
> > I spoke to my friend about this. He is THE plumemaker to many MOD's
> > around the world and he doesn't use anything at all.
> > I use herbal balls made from lavender,rosemary,sage and some other herbs
> >
> > Dawn
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 17:45:13 1999
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: American Girls Clothing Design Software
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 17:03:27 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

I was at Target earlier today and saw American Girls Clothing Design
Software. It looked like you could create paperdoll and do some limited
clothing design. I didn't get a chance to read the package, but I
immediately thought of this list. Some of you with girls might be interested
in this.

Heather

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 20:42:53 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.44decf55.257841e2@aol.com>
Subject: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 20:01:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I just got my birthday present: Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan
North.   It has wonderful photos of extant items from the late 17th century
(and 18th).  I was wondering, since it is a little later than my interest
(1500-1600) what your opinions were on whether or not the colors (dyes
available), embelishments, fabric manipulations were significantly different
than those of, say, 50-80 years earlier.  I'm not asking about style, as
that is obviously different.

One of my particular interests is dyed fur.  This book has an example of
dyed rabbit fur.
The other is that I have heared repeatedly that fabric with a slub in it
would not have been used.  This book and another I have has examples of
linen with  a definate slub.  Does anyone know where the 'fact' that fabrics
with a slub would not have been used might have come from?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 22:09:19 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 22:18:01 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: frog closures
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Does anyone know when frog closures came into being used?  My daughter asked 
>today why they are called frog closures and I realized that I don't really 
>know.  Does anyone know?

I don't know why they're called frogs but, I have seen them used in
numerous 16th century portraits.  Particularily Spanish.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 22:29:00 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 20:40:33 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs / Moth balls
References: <199912012317.QAA10593@net.indra.com> <38469973.F3AB3E76@flash.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"V. Renée Bedford" wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "V. =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9e?= Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
> 
> I was *so* hoping someone else would ask this!  Along the U.S. Gulf Coast and thereabouts, we have
> awful problems with an as-yet unmentioned (unless I missed it) beastie...roaches.  Ugh!
> 
> I'm told these nasty critters are frequently responsible for holes in garments...especially garments
> stored without prior cleaning.  (A little hole in a acetate velvet dress was blamed on a roach
> munching away a spot of spilled food.  Shudder...visions of insect parties in my closet at night!)
> 
> Any possible truth to this?  And do moth balls / cedar / lavendar repel roaches?  Thanks, Renee (in
> humid Houston, Texas)

I don't know what kind of roaches you have in Houston, Renee, but the
ones we had in Hawaii weren't fazed in the slightest by anything I could
think of short of pyrethrins.  They laughed at moth balls, cedar and
lavendar.  

However, roaches have no interest in clean clothes as far as I can tell
- they left my clothes alone as long as they were clean.  But for some
reason they loved to eat my watercolors (and no, they weren't temperas).

Carolyn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 22:41:53 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991202191050.MPXL20526.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 21:16:05 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0054_01BF3D0A.71DF7360
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WTO - very OTR.L. Shep and Tammy, or anyone else in that area,

  Please be careful.=20

Michelle

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>WTO - very OT</TITLE>
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>R.L. Shep and Tammy, or anyone else in that =
area,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; Please be careful. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 22:59:28 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Scottish resources
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:56 AM 12/2/99 -0500, Patricia Szekely wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Patricia Szekely" <a.szekely@worldnet.att.net>
>
>Just wondering if anyone can direct me to resources for Scotland.  In
>particular Scottish ladies in the late 16th century.  Can be highland or
>lowland or whatever.  I am just starting, and need all of the references I
>can get.
>
>Thanks in advance : )
>
>Tricia

Well, it's probably disappointing, but the Scottish ladies of the late 16th
century dressed pretty much like English ladies of the same time period <g>,
only less richly, since Scotland was not a rich country.  Look for
references about James VI of Scotland (became James I of England after
Elizabeth's death); he married Anne of Denmark in the 1580s (IIRC).
Unfortunately, portraiture in the Scottish court was not as common as in the
English; most of the portraits of James and Anne that I am familiar with
were done *after* James became King of England in 1603.

One author to look for is _J. Telfar Dunbar_. He is *by far* the most
reliable historian of Scottish clothing. Most of the others I have seen are
from the 19th century and have a romantic attachment to Scottish highland
dress styles (often inventions).

Good luck on your researches (and have fun!),

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 08:01 PM 12/2/99 -0700, Dean Quackenbush wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
>
>I just got my birthday present: Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan
>North.   It has wonderful photos of extant items from the late 17th century
>(and 18th).  I was wondering, since it is a little later than my interest
>(1500-1600) what your opinions were on whether or not the colors (dyes
>available), embelishments, fabric manipulations were significantly different
>than those of, say, 50-80 years earlier.  I'm not asking about style, as
>that is obviously different.
>
>One of my particular interests is dyed fur.  This book has an example of
>dyed rabbit fur.
>The other is that I have heared repeatedly that fabric with a slub in it
>would not have been used.  This book and another I have has examples of
>linen with  a definate slub.  Does anyone know where the 'fact' that fabrics
>with a slub would not have been used might have come from?

Two questions about the linen: 1) What was the magnification used for the
detail? Under high magnification even the smoothest linen will show "slubs".
And 2), what was the thread count (tpi=threads per inch or tpc=threads per
centimeter)? Lower thread count means coarser fibers, which will give you a
"slubbier" thread. The occasional slub is expected, but is not a design
element in the fabric. Remember that *all* the linen woven in that time was
made from thread spun by hand. Even the best spinner cannot make an
absolutely perfectly even thread all the time, although she could come close.

That said, as I recall the earlier list discussion, we were talking about
dating the advent of a deliberately slubby *silk* fabric as a fashion
fabric. As far as I know, silk fabrics in Europe in the 16th century were
made from reeled or thrown silk where slubs were definite faults, not design
features.

This friendly spinner, weaver, and all-around fiber-fanatic sends you her
congratulations on such a lovely birthday gift,


Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From: joanj@quiknet.com
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Subject: H-COST: Interesting item on eBay web site item#212081594: ANTIQUE HAT FORM BLOCK ADJUSTABLE STRETCHER
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 22:41:18 Pacific Standard Time
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-Poster: joanj@quiknet.com

I saw this item for sale at eBay and thought that a member of this list might be interested.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

Title of item:	ANTIQUE HAT FORM BLOCK ADJUSTABLE STRETCHER
Seller:	gcgc@sympatico.ca
Starts:	12/01/99, 18:07:39 PST
Ends:	12/08/99, 18:07:39 PST
Price:	Currently $9.00
To bid on the item, go to:	http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=212081594


Item Description:		
	When form is closed: 21" or 53 cm diameter
When form is extended: 23" 1/2 or 60 cm
Metal handle and wood adjustable hat form or stretcher. Marked 6 3/4 on bottom. Two graduated pins 6 7/8 to 7 5/8 and 21 5/8 to  
(unreadable). In very good condition.

	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at http://www.ebay.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 03:46:26 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 09:59:04 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  H-COST: Re: V-back collars/pourpoints
In-reply-to: <199912022332.QAA17193@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> - -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
>
> OK, that's pretty much what I was working on, too.  If you dont do a
> CB seam in the V-inset, how do you get it to "stand" at the back?

I'm not sure I understand the question - The collar is the regular 
stand-collar shape at the top, but instead of the straight line across 
the bottom (where it would fit into a higher/rounded neckhole) it 
extends down into the V shape at the centre back.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 04:37:45 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Moths in Australia (off-ish topic)
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 21:53:10 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

In Australia, a large moth is the Bogon variety, named for the region they
inhabit. They have a migratory path close to the national Capital,
Canberra. In the 1980s, when the new Parliament House was built, a large
light was placed atop it's sphire and guess what... Yep, the moths were
diverted from thier migration and infested the place.

Lesson? If coming to Australia, do not visit Canberra in your costume!

Still, could be worse, could be in Japan - anyone seen that Mothra movie?
Phew!

-C.
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, differences in
	 fabric treatments
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 06:42:19 -0700 
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

This is an incredible book, I woke up early to read more.  Another question:
I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)
who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
didn't exist'.  Now its been awhile, but I have been to the textile museum
in D.C. and it seems I recall that stuff as early as 700 b.c..  Most of it
was from the middle east, but it had elephants, metal thread all woven into
the fabric, not embroidered.  Since we have to 'prove' to her that we are
'right', I need written or photographic evidence.  This book has such
fabric, but it is more in the 1740's range.  Did weaving techniques change
that much??

Also, fabric color:  While it is difficult to tell because of photography,
lighting and degradation, some of these colors are quite bright-any opinions
on whether dying changed that much?  I would conjecture not, just because I
wouldn't think that synthetic dyes were becoming available even then.  Any
points to resources would be appreciated.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Quackenbush [mailto:deanq@paloverde.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 8:02 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments


-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I just got my birthday present: Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan
North.   It has wonderful photos of extant items from the late 17th century
(and 18th).  I was wondering, since it is a little later than my interest
(1500-1600) what your opinions were on whether or not the colors (dyes
available), embelishments, fabric manipulations were significantly different
than those of, say, 50-80 years earlier.  I'm not asking about style, as
that is obviously different.

One of my particular interests is dyed fur.  This book has an example of
dyed rabbit fur.
The other is that I have heared repeatedly that fabric with a slub in it
would not have been used.  This book and another I have has examples of
linen with  a definate slub.  Does anyone know where the 'fact' that fabrics
with a slub would not have been used might have come from?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 07:32:20 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'joanj@quiknet.com]'" <joanj@quiknet.com]>,
        "'h-costume@indra.com'"
	 <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 06:49:55 -0700 
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Joan, I don't have both books with me, but one in particular is on the
history of silk.  The linen bodice is shown because of the silk embroidery.
It is a shot at a distance that allows you to see the whole bodice on a
large page.  The slub is obvious at even that distance and isn't just here
and there, it is everywhere.  And what puzzled me more is that it is
described as being court dress.  In the other book, Fashion in Detail, the
slubs are more like what you described, just here and there.  But there is a
jacket dating in the early 1600's that is coarsely woven linen.  It almost
looks like the raw silk popular today, fairly open weave in 'natural'
colors.  It does specify that the jacket would probably not have been worn
in public, but used at home.  When I get home tonight I will send the name,
author and ISBN number of that book.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Joan M Jurancich [mailto:joanj@quiknet.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 10:47 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments



-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 08:01 PM 12/2/99 -0700, Dean Quackenbush wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
>
>I just got my birthday present: Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan
>North.   It has wonderful photos of extant items from the late 17th century
>(and 18th).  I was wondering, since it is a little later than my interest
>(1500-1600) what your opinions were on whether or not the colors (dyes
>available), embelishments, fabric manipulations were significantly
different
>than those of, say, 50-80 years earlier.  I'm not asking about style, as
>that is obviously different.
>
>One of my particular interests is dyed fur.  This book has an example of
>dyed rabbit fur.
>The other is that I have heared repeatedly that fabric with a slub in it
>would not have been used.  This book and another I have has examples of
>linen with  a definate slub.  Does anyone know where the 'fact' that
fabrics
>with a slub would not have been used might have come from?

Two questions about the linen: 1) What was the magnification used for the
detail? Under high magnification even the smoothest linen will show "slubs".
And 2), what was the thread count (tpi=threads per inch or tpc=threads per
centimeter)? Lower thread count means coarser fibers, which will give you a
"slubbier" thread. The occasional slub is expected, but is not a design
element in the fabric. Remember that *all* the linen woven in that time was
made from thread spun by hand. Even the best spinner cannot make an
absolutely perfectly even thread all the time, although she could come
close.

That said, as I recall the earlier list discussion, we were talking about
dating the advent of a deliberately slubby *silk* fabric as a fashion
fabric. As far as I know, silk fabrics in Europe in the 16th century were
made from reeled or thrown silk where slubs were definite faults, not design
features.

This friendly spinner, weaver, and all-around fiber-fanatic sends you her
congratulations on such a lovely birthday gift,


Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 07:44:52 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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 differences infabric treatments
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

"Knauf, Saragrace T" wrote:
> who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
> different colors) wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
> didn't exist'.

I believe this is incorrect.  The fancy machines were invented to
replace master weavers, who were doing this sort of thing already.

I don't have pictures, but an account of some actual fabric I saw at the
Chicago Institute of Art is at
<http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/real_fabrics.html> with a few
images of paintings showing similar fabrics.  For solid documentation,
there are the Museum of London books, and Janet Arnold.

cv
--
  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 09:33:55 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, 
	differences i...
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/3/99 7:05:22 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
cvirtue@thibault.org writes:

<< I believe this is incorrect.  The fancy machines were invented to
 replace master weavers, who were doing this sort of thing already.
 
 I don't have pictures, but an account of some actual fabric I saw at the
 Chicago Institute of Art is at
 <http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/real_fabrics.html> with a few
 images of paintings showing similar fabrics.  For solid documentation,
 there are the Museum of London books, and Janet Arnold.
  >>


OK.  I'm not a weaver although I have dabbled.  My recollection is that the 
fancy loom you're referring to is the Jaquard loom which was a 16-harness 
loom.  Before that 2 and 4-harness looms were the standard.  This would mean 
that each motif would have had to be  worked painstakingly by hand.  No small 
feat, but doable.  Cheryl Odom, not an authority by any means
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 08:50:31 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/03/1999 9:35:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Cheryldee@aol.com writes:

<< would have had to be  worked painstakingly by hand.  >>

Err....EVERYTHING before machines were " worked painstakingly by hand".
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 10:14:26 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 06:42 AM 12/03/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>
>This is an incredible book, I woke up early to read more.  Another question:
>I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)

Wait a minute, that's not my term.  It's a fairly common one, but I have a
profound distate for it:  to me, it trivializes the greatest tragedy in
history.  I usually use "costume police" in this context.

No apologies are needed, I know it's easy to misremember who said what on a
list as active as this one. 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 10:15:31 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Oops, just after I hit"send" I realized the writer might have meant the word
"Snark" rhather than "Nazi".  If so, I don't really know where I got it.  It
sounds right, though, doesn't it?

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 10:32:04 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I think moths do go for the food spills on woolen clothes.  I doen't trust 
dry cleaners to do a thorough job of cleaning, however.  I wash all my woolen 
knits with Orvus Paste in the washer on gentle, lay flat to dry, then freeze 
3 days in plastic zip lock bags before storing.  It is effective and 
foolproof.  Wovens are tougher, as ready-to-wear isn't preshrunk and doesn't 
tolerate water.  Then you have to rely on the cleaners, but you can still 
wrap them in plastic and hang them outdoors in freezing weather, or lay them 
in the freezer for a time.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 10:39:16 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, di
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something
like the statement you had made (I think) earlier in one of your posts "Who
died and made you Janet Arnold"-WDAMYJA-nope doesn't have the same ring as
SNARK.

-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson [mailto:margo@directcon.net]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 9:31 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was Slub, dyed fur,
differences in fabric treatments



-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Oops, just after I hit"send" I realized the writer might have meant the word
"Snark" rhather than "Nazi".  If so, I don't really know where I got it.  It
sounds right, though, doesn't it?

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 11:21:52 1999
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> This is an incredible book, I woke up early to read more.  Another
question:
> I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)
> who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving
(with
> different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
> didn't exist'.  Now its been awhile, but I have been to the textile museum
> in D.C. and it seems I recall that stuff as early as 700 b.c..  Most of it
> was from the middle east, but it had elephants, metal thread all woven
into
> the fabric, not embroidered.  Since we have to 'prove' to her that we are
> 'right', I need written or photographic evidence.

You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from the
Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.  The museum dates it as prior to Charles'
death in 1364.  It is made from a brocade with a slightly off-white back
ground and gold thread for the pattern of lions and eagles in octagons (or
is it hexagons? Anyway...)  You can also find pictures of it in a few books,
but I haven't seen any in color in the books.

Dan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 11:25:16 1999
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  differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:55 AM 12/03/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>
>Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something

Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!


>like the statement you had made (I think) earlier in one of your posts "Who
>died and made you Janet Arnold"-WDAMYJA-nope doesn't have the same ring as
>SNARK.

It's not as funny since Ms. Arnold died, either.  Too bad, I really liked
its effect on the snarks.  

Margo


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,  differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  >Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something
>  
>  Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!

Sew-ers Needing A Reality Kick?

(Sorry, OT, but I couldn't resist.)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8





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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 12:10:53 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: "snark"
In-Reply-To: <199912031734.JAA23008@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> >Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something
> 
> Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!

Sorry, No Advice Required, Kiddo!


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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 12:21:53 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Another Snark
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Superior Nobody, Always (Regretfully,) "Knowing"

Sorry.  It's a habit.  Make it a game, and I'll play.

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:02:45 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 09:53:57 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
	 differences infabric treatments
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I can't buy that notion at all!  There are many examples and documentation
about fabrics being woven by hand in different colors and with patterns not
only in Euope but all over the world.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
differences infabric treatments
>Date: Fri, Dec 3, 1999, 6:00 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>"Knauf, Saragrace T" wrote:
>> who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving
(with
>> different colors) wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
>> didn't exist'.
>
>I believe this is incorrect.  The fancy machines were invented to
>replace master weavers, who were doing this sort of thing already.
>
>I don't have pictures, but an account of some actual fabric I saw at the
>Chicago Institute of Art is at
><http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/real_fabrics.html> with a few
>images of paintings showing similar fabrics.  For solid documentation,
>there are the Museum of London books, and Janet Arnold.
>
>cv
>--
>  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
>       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:04:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 12:22:26 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Snotty Nonrequested "Advice" Rendered Kuttingly

Sinfully Nosey Advisor Reminiscent (of) Kobolds

Sees Nothing Accurate Regardless, Kemosabe

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:14:30 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, di
	fferences infabric treatments
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 10:20:55 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

There's always someone who things everyone in the past was stupid, and that
nothing of quality can be made without machines.  Like the visitor to
Colonial Williamsburg who told the sadler that what he was doing was
impossible because only machines could do that kind of work.  Or another,
who wondered with awe if they had needles "back then".

It's not even a matter of what we think is true.  There are plenty of
portraits that show all kinds of fancy woven stuff.  There's no need to
prove anything to an aggressivly misinformed person who probably will find
some reason not to believe you anyway, no matter how sound your evidence,
because they think "it isn't logical."

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	R.L. Shep[SMTP:rlshep@home.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Friday, December 03, 1999 9:53 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed
> fur, differences infabric treatments
> 
> 
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> 
> I can't buy that notion at all!  There are many examples and documentation
> about fabrics being woven by hand in different colors and with patterns
> not
> only in Euope but all over the world.
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
> 
> ----------
> >From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
> differences infabric treatments
> >Date: Fri, Dec 3, 1999, 6:00 AM
> >
> 
> >
> >-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> >
> >"Knauf, Saragrace T" wrote:
> >> who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving
> (with
> >> different colors) wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the
> 'machines
> >> didn't exist'.
> >
> >I believe this is incorrect.  The fancy machines were invented to
> >replace master weavers, who were doing this sort of thing already.
> >
> >I don't have pictures, but an account of some actual fabric I saw at the
> >Chicago Institute of Art is at
> ><http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/real_fabrics.html> with a few
> >images of paintings showing similar fabrics.  For solid documentation,
> >there are the Museum of London books, and Janet Arnold.
> >
> >cv
> >--
> >  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
> >       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:27:31 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, di
	 fferences infabric treatments
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Maggie makes a very good point.  That type of person will never let
something as simple as facts get in the way of what they "Know".  Best
example I have heard to date was at Fort Sutter here in Sacramento.  Someone
told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
it.

-----Original Message-----
From: MAGGIE SECARA [mailto:SECARAM@mainsaver.com]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 10:21 AM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was Slub, dyed fur,
di fferences infabric treatments



-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

There's always someone who things everyone in the past was stupid, and that
nothing of quality can be made without machines.  Like the visitor to
Colonial Williamsburg who told the sadler that what he was doing was
impossible because only machines could do that kind of work.  Or another,
who wondered with awe if they had needles "back then".

It's not even a matter of what we think is true.  There are plenty of
portraits that show all kinds of fancy woven stuff.  There's no need to
prove anything to an aggressivly misinformed person who probably will find
some reason not to believe you anyway, no matter how sound your evidence,
because they think "it isn't logical."

MaggiRos

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:33:06 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mus=E9e_des_Tissus_catalog=3F?=
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 10:50:22 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

>You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from the
>Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.   You can also find pictures of it in a
few books,
>but I haven't seen any in color in the books.

Nor have I.  Does the MdT have a catalog?  Do you know it's name? 
I'm afraid I dont actually own a slide projector.  So retrotech.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:40:25 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg exhibit
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 10:57:34 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


I see in the Jan '00 issue of "Threads" that Colonial Williamsburg has an
exhibit "Revealing Fashions" (1750-1790) where the garments are shown
specifically to reveal construction techniques.  There's a book _Costume
Closeup_ supposed to be available soon w/ patterns.
If anyone has seen the show or the book, I'd be delighted to read your
review,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:41:56 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: =?iso-8859-1?Q?RE=3A_H-COST=3A_Mus=E9e_des_Tissus_catalog=3F?=
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 11:58:41 -0700 
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

You can take a slide and have it developed into a pic, or even put on disk!
Got an address for the Museum anyone, or might we find it on line??

-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Barnes [mailto:Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 11:50 AM
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Musée des Tissus catalog?



-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

>You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from the
>Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.   You can also find pictures of it in a
few books,
>but I haven't seen any in color in the books.

Nor have I.  Does the MdT have a catalog?  Do you know it's name? 
I'm afraid I dont actually own a slide projector.  So retrotech.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi

> Snotty Nonrequested "Advice" Rendered Kuttingly
> 
> Sinfully Nosey Advisor Reminiscent (of) Kobolds
> 
> Sees Nothing Accurate Regardless, Kemosabe
> 

ROTFL especially at the last one!

Henk



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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all


On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, Kat & Kent wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> Snotty Nonrequested "Advice" Rendered Kuttingly
> 
> Sinfully Nosey Advisor Reminiscent (of) Kobolds
> 
> Sees Nothing Accurate Regardless, Kemosabe
> 
> Kat
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/


> You can take a slide and have it developed into a pic, or even put on disk!
> Got an address for the Museum anyone, or might we find it on line??
>
> >You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from the
> >Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:58:35 1999
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Subject: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> 
> There's always someone who things everyone in the past was stupid, and that
> nothing of quality can be made without machines.  Like the visitor to
> Colonial Williamsburg who told the sadler that what he was doing was
> impossible because only machines could do that kind of work.  Or another,
> who wondered with awe if they had needles "back then".

I go the other way -- I can't imagine how machines can do
stuff I only know how to do by hand!

As to brocade weaves, the Chinese invented the draw-loom
which allows elaborate patterning. Not sure of the date, 
but poss. B.C.  And the Central Asian and Persian weavers
learned it from them, and so on.
  Numerous examples of T'ang dynasty (ca 8-9th c.) patterned
silks have been found in western China (formerly Chinese
Turkestan) of Chinese manufacture as well as Sogdian and
Iranian. 

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> >You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from
the
> >Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.   You can also find pictures of it in a
> few books,
> >but I haven't seen any in color in the books.
>
> Nor have I.  Does the MdT have a catalog?  Do you know it's name?
> I'm afraid I dont actually own a slide projector.  So retrotech.
> --cin

I actually got an email contact from their web site at
http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/musee00.htm and emailed them.  I
explained what I was doing and they recommended 5 images, one of them being
a closup of the fabric that also shows a seem right down the middle of it.
They were very nice to deal with, although the email was about half in
French.  I only purchaced rights to use the images myself.  I did not get
rights to redistribute or publish.

I took the slides and had them scanned so I could print them out and also
blow them up on my monitor to get better detail.  They printed out
beautifuly as 8x10's from my HP 810C on the high grade HP photo paper.

Dan


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg exhibit
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Cynthia,

Book is due out NLT December 31, 1999 and exhibit is due to open the first 
week of January to coordinate with the symposium that starts January 9. Stay 
tuned. I saw a draft chapter in the early stages of development -- comes with 
scale drawings and construction details of selected garments in the CW 
collection.

Sally 

Costume Collections Calendar Series
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <3.0.3.32.19991202100132.006a41ac@pop.service.ohio-
state.edu>, "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
writes

>But I do wonder how UK folks keep natural fibers from deteriorating in
>all the damp.  Or is it only damp in Scotland (where the towels never
>seemed to dry out while I was on vacation there?).

I know Scotland has a terrible social problem of damp in housing, but
I've never had any trouble with fabrics - certainly not in year-to-year
terms, though I don't know about preserving costumes over long periods.
Reasonable heating and ventilation is all it needs.  Admittedly our
towels never dry in the bathroom, but I think that's down to the lack of
either - we hang them over a chair in the living room :)
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>

>Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

This one gets my vote for favorite!!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 13:23:47 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 14:41:31 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Several months ago, we were discussing baby dolls dresses that were popular
in the last 1960s to early 1970s.  These are dresses worn by teenagers that
were VERY short and sometimes had matching short bloomers.  I found Baby
Doll dress documentation last night in an excellent book called Couture- The
Great Designers.   Two designers had pictures of them in the book.  I think
one was Bill Blass in 1968.  My Simplicity patterns date 1971.  The
designers did call them Baby Doll dresses.

The image of my Baby Doll dresses pattern is at
http://www.costumegallery.com/patter1.jpg

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:31:51 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, 
	differences i...
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/3/99 8:09:32 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< In a message dated 12/03/1999 9:35:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
 Cheryldee@aol.com writes:
 
 << would have had to be  worked painstakingly by hand.  >>
 
 Err....EVERYTHING before machines were " worked painstakingly by hand".
  >>

Meaning the threads would have had to be woven without the use of a harness.  
Point of clarification.  Cheryl
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

These dresses were also called "skimmers".  Unfortunately, I tossed the pattern I used as a teenager when I moved about a year ago.  Didn't think ANYONE would be interested in it.

Pamela D. 
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



> > >Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for
something
> >
> > Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!

 I can't believe I am actually saying this but...
  How about 'snarc'

Sorry Novice Attempt for Required Costume

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

>   How about 'snarc'
> Sorry Novice Attempt for Required Costume

Except that it implies that it is the fault of the person being
criticized.  :}
Cynthia


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>- -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>You can take a slide and have it developed into a pic, or even put on disk!
>Got an address for the Museum anyone, or might we find it on line??

Sure, have a field day.  I didnt see the pourpoint in the pics.  Believe me,
I would
 have downloaded that image so fast even porn pics would pull aside.
http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 17:26:30 -0500 (EST)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
In-Reply-To: <199912031232.AA783679794@Herb-Lore.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
out there..)

The Hunting of the Snark
or
An Agonizing 8 Fittings

"Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
Arranging her skirts with care;
Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
Her finger aloft in the air.

"Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
That alone should bring one round.
Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
By god, I'll stand my ground.

"Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
the five unmistakeable marks
by which you may know, wherever you go,
the warrented, genuine Snarks.

"Let us take them in order.  The first is their taste,
An excess of which makes them quite rude;
Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
You're better off totally nude.

"You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with care!
You may lure them with velvet as well,
You may ask them for documentation for their
Inexpressibly period smell."

Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...

Drea


On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> 
> >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> 
> This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 



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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 14:28:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Lyssandre MacKenzie <lyssandre@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Lyssandre MacKenzie <lyssandre@yahoo.com>

I may "borrow" these with the gracious permission of
the ladies/ gentlemen wo thougth of them!  

Wonderful!!

Noelle 

--- aleed <aleed@dnaco.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any
> English Lit majors
> out there..)
> 
> The Hunting of the Snark
> or
> An Agonizing 8 Fittings
> 
> "Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
> Arranging her skirts with care;
> Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
> Her finger aloft in the air.
> 
> "Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
> That alone should bring one round.
> Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
> By god, I'll stand my ground.
> 
> "Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
> the five unmistakeable marks
> by which you may know, wherever you go,
> the warrented, genuine Snarks.
> 
> "Let us take them in order.  The first is their
> taste,
> An excess of which makes them quite rude;
> Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
> You're better off totally nude.
> 
> "You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with
> care!
> You may lure them with velvet as well,
> You may ask them for documentation for their
> Inexpressibly period smell."
> 
> Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at
> work when...
> 
> Drea
> 
> 
> On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
> 
> > 
> > -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> > 
> > >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> > 
> > This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> > 
> > 
> > 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 16:10:25 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9912031509450.15527-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:32:04 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  Hah!  Perfect.......

 Liadain,
 giggling

> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
> out there..)
> 
> The Hunting of the Snark
> or
> An Agonizing 8 Fittings
> 
> "Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
> Arranging her skirts with care;
> Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
> Her finger aloft in the air.
> 
> "Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
> That alone should bring one round.
> Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
> By god, I'll stand my ground.
> 
> "Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
> the five unmistakeable marks
> by which you may know, wherever you go,
> the warrented, genuine Snarks.
> 
> "Let us take them in order.  The first is their taste,
> An excess of which makes them quite rude;
> Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
> You're better off totally nude.
> 
> "You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with care!
> You may lure them with velvet as well,
> You may ask them for documentation for their
> Inexpressibly period smell."
> 
> Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...
> 
> Drea
> 
> 
> On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
> 
> > 
> > -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> > 
> > >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> > 
> > This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> > 
> > 
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

 _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 14:35:32 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>  
>  
>  Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

I vote for this one! 

Kate
----
StitchWitch
In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8





_______________________________________________________
Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com 
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E637841ABC4@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: h-costume-digest V4 #823
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> >- -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> >You can take a slide and have it developed into a pic, or even put on
disk!
> >Got an address for the Museum anyone, or might we find it on line??
>
> Sure, have a field day.  I didnt see the pourpoint in the pics.  Believe
me,
> I would
>  have downloaded that image so fast even porn pics would pull aside.
> http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/
> --cin

They don't have any pics of it online.  You have to pay to get pics.  But,
at least tehy are good, clear pics.

Dan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 16:46:31 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: SAQUEEN@aol.com
Subject: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg costume exhibit
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:05:18 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Book is due out NLT December 31, 1999 and exhibit is due to open the first 
week of January to coordinate with the symposium that starts January 9. Stay

tuned. I saw a draft chapter in the early stages of development -- comes
with 
scale drawings and construction details of selected garments in the CW 
collection.

"Threads" really wrong then.  They say it opened 4 Dec (thru 4 Sept). 
They also said the book s/b in stores on 15 Dec which jives w/ what you say.
It's seems quite cheap at US$25.
Here's the info number if anyone else wants to call: 757..220.7724 CW Dec
Arts Museum.  It's after hours.  The tape has no info about the current
exhibits & programs.
Hmmm, I'd hoped to run thru CW when I'm in VA in a few weeks.  See my old
school, run up & down DOG street. 

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg exhibit
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 02:20 PM 12/3/99 EST, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
>
>Cynthia,
>
>Book is due out NLT December 31, 1999 and exhibit is due to open the first 
>week of January to coordinate with the symposium that starts January 9. Stay 
>tuned. I saw a draft chapter in the early stages of development -- comes with 
>scale drawings and construction details of selected garments in the CW 
>collection.
>
>Sally 
>

        The Colonial Williamsburg newspaper, and the Daily Press both state
that the exhibit opens tomorrow.  

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 16:51:12 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 18:07:15 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg costume exhibit
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

> 
> Hmmm, I'd hoped to run thru CW when I'm in VA in a few weeks.  See my old
> school, run up & down DOG street. 
> 
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes

Hey, another William & Mary alum? Cool!  =) I'm actually going to be driving through the 
burg this weekend.... I'm looking forward to a Cheese Shop sandwich. ;-)

--Jessica (class of '95 - yes, I'm young)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Well, I don't care if my clothes moths are an endangered species - I'm
squishing them whenever possible, along with all those carpet beetles (who
eat the same things).

BTW, you forgot to list earthquakes (she said, from California).

>>the clothes moth has long since died out in the UK (and poss Europe)...
>--------------------
>
>Question from the U.S. to the U.K....
>Correct me if I'm wrong--the clothes moth has died out, no rabies,
>you don't have killer tornados every spring and fall, the mosquitos aren't
>the size of humming birds, hurricanes don't wipe out your coastal cities,
>your temperatures don't vary from -20 to 100 degrees F with 99% humidity,
>you don't have major droughts that turn everything into a dust bowl, no
>massive fields of ragweed and other allergens everywhere....
>
>I can't decide if it's idyllic or downright unchallenging!  
>
>But I do wonder how UK folks keep natural fibers from deteriorating in
>all the damp.  Or is it only damp in Scotland (where the towels never
>seemed to dry out while I was on vacation there?).



Kayta
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 15:06:58 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: authentic vs. stage/theatrical (was The Messenger/movies)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

'Innacurate' historical costuming on stage and screen isn't necessarily the
same as bad theatrical/movie costuming.  Sure, there are choices based on
ignorance, but there are also choices based on design, purpose, message,
and like that.  Complain about the first, but understand the second.

There exist some valid reasons why costume designers will choose not to do
100% accurate copies of historical costumes when they costume a
stage/screen production.  Most important is the fact that one can 'talk' to
a modern audience better, in some cases, by digressing from absolute
accuracy in a way that the modern audience can understand.  You can make
statements by choosing what you have the characters wear, even if it isn't
strictly period.  Like having the villain wear a black hat.  Like putting a
Stratford On Avon souvenir mug into the movie Shakespeare In Love, or (same
movie) using Lurex 'gold' embroidery so there will be enough glittery gold
on the costumes.  Like simplifying the details so they will show up from
the last row of seats in the theatre.  

Budget is another factor.  As in, how good can we afford to get, or how can
we suggest what we want using only the money we have.  "Champaigne period
on a beer budget".  I am usually of the '3-D Xerox' school of historical
costuming, but have also done some theatrical costuming - sometimes I have
been allocated less for the entire costuming budget than I have spent on
single historical outfits of my own.

>It seems like many of you here on the list seem to disapprove of the 
>costumes in many  movies, including most recently,  _The Messenger_.
>
>May I respectfully request that instead of just making blanket negative 
>statements, perhaps  it would better serve everyone on the list if we were 
>more specific and give real reasons why a particular article was or wasn't 
>correct.  References to good books and websites are always welcome.  I, like 
>many others here, am a novice costumer/historian.  Every day I try to 
>improve upon my knowledge base, and this list is a very valuable tool for 
>doing so.  I very much enjoy the comments and information shared by 
>everyone, but IMHO it serves no real purpose to just flatly dismiss 
>something just because "I heard it was awful".  
>
>Another observation:  I've often gotten the impression in different movies 
>that the costumes may not be correct for the time that is being portrayed, 
>but perhaps were perfectly acceptable in and of themselves.  In other words, 
>"good costume, wrong movie".  Yes, No?



Kayta
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

carpet-beetle)

All sorted now thanks to some nasty stuff 
>from the local vet, 

Please tell.  What nasty stuff is this?  In addition to everything else, we
have wool carpeting here. 


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 15:07:06 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Snaps
In-Reply-To: <002401bf3bb5$e552ee40$dc920f3f@pbc.adelphia.net>
References: <009d01bf3b9b$9c437720$94a2193f@oemcomputer>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Teens or early twenties?

>When did snaps come into play for clothing and accessories?  General time
>frame is fine.  I am just too tired to look into myself and thought maybe
>someone knows off the top of their head.  It's not important, just curious.



Kayta
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:47:37 -0800
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
>Ahh, but we have other challenges, like American actors who
>*think* they can do English accents (anyone watch "Buffy"?) and
>MacDonalds.

Ah, c'mon, Spikey is *cute*!

Now what i can't stand is Gwenyth Paltrow's awful fraudulent English 
accent, fortunately somewhat modified and improved in "Shakespeare in 
Love". She sounds like she has a clothespin on her nose and something 
is wrong with her palate...

OK, i know there's no costume content in this... sorry...

Lilinah

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/03/1999 5:26:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
aleed@dnaco.net writes:

<< With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
 out there..)
  >>
I use to have this in a big book with fantastic lithographs for the award 
winning illustrations by.....by....Damn! Ralph ....something that begins "ST" 
[he also illustrated an "Alice in Wonderland" and a Through the Looking 
Glass"...all incredibly wonderful!]
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Yea,

That's good news that the exhibit is open during the busy Christmas season. 
Thanks for the update!

Ron, any mention of book publish date?

Sally

Costume Collection Calendar Series
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Oh, Brava, Milady!

Now the big question...does this go on your website or mine?  It's too good
not to share!

Margo


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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>I use to have this in a big book with fantastic lithographs for the award
>winning illustrations by.....by....Damn! Ralph ....something that begins "ST"
>[he also illustrated an "Alice in Wonderland" and a Through the Looking
>Glass"...all incredibly wonderful!]

Ralph Steadman. Very psychotic looking. I have a couple of his books...


Lilinah

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 16:55:32 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> The Hunting of the Snark
> or
> An Agonizing 8 Fittings
>
> Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...

ROTFLMAO!!!      I pray that you continue in this vein, you clearly have a
knack.  And then when you've covered all bases, please, on any website!

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 20:15:03 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 18:29:34 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
   differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:34 AM 12/03/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>At 09:55 AM 12/03/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>>
>>Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something
>
>Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!
                    Well, the 'sn' part must stand for "snide"... Carol
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 22:00:11 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg exhibit
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 07:09 PM 12/3/99 EST, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
>
>Yea,
>
>That's good news that the exhibit is open during the busy Christmas season. 
>Thanks for the update!
>
>Ron, any mention of book publish date?
>
>Sally
>
>Costume Collection Calendar Series
>Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
>http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com

        It sounds like the book has been held up...I am wondering if that is
part of the inconsistancy with the dates.  I may go see the exhibit sunday.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 21:11:25 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:23:14 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>

Ney, I say.  Skimmers were longer than baby doll dresses.  Skimmers were
very light material - sometimes permanent pleated which like - floated
around you as you moved, but came closer to the knee than the crotch (some
more modest ones wore them to the knee).  Baby dolls inspired some to wear
them so short that you always saw the ruffles underneath. ;-)). 

Islyle
who was thin enough back them to hem her babydolls.
----------
> From: Panmela@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
> Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 1:33 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Panmela@aol.com
> 
> These dresses were also called "skimmers".  Unfortunately, I tossed the
pattern I used as a teenager when I moved about a year ago.  Didn't think
ANYONE would be interested in it.
> 
> Pamela D. 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 21:28:48 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
  differences i...
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:33 AM 12/3/99 EST, Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:
>
[snip]
>
>OK.  I'm not a weaver although I have dabbled.  My recollection is that the 
>fancy loom you're referring to is the Jaquard loom which was a 16-harness 
>loom.  Before that 2 and 4-harness looms were the standard.  This would mean 
>that each motif would have had to be  worked painstakingly by hand.  No small 
>feat, but doable.  Cheryl Odom, not an authority by any means

Actually, draw-looms capable of weaving all sorts of very complex patterns
were developed in China more than two millenia ago. Other looms using sets
of pattern headles (also called harnesses) were developed in various places
around the world a loooooonnnng time ago.

Two- and four-harness looms are perhaps the most common for everyday
fabrics, but the highly decorated (and *extremely* expensive) woven fabrics
used many more harnesses (i.e., groups of headles controlling particular
warp threads to make the patterning easier); weaving satin fabrics (silk or
wool) can use 7 harnesses to keep the smooth, glossy threads of the warp
showing an almost unbroken surface.

Apparently the person who inspired the first message in this thread has
*never* studied anything about the history of weaving. Or spinning. Or
dyeing. Our ancestors had to be clever to manage; some of our oh-so-smart
moderns would have never made it to adulthood, let alone reproduced.

Can you guess that fiber and fabric technologies are special interests of
mine? <VBG> Sorry for getting on such a high soapbox, but I am constantly
irritated by the attitude that everything was "crude" in the 19th century
and earlier. Humph..Our woolen fabrics (not all, but quite a large
proportion) would not have been given approval by the medieval guilds of
weavers because they are not properly finished. ... I had best get down off
this soapbox, the air is getting thin...

Back on the ground now. That's better <g>.  A wonderful book for learning
about the impact of cloth-making in the lives of women in Europe and the
Mideast is "Women's Work: the first 20,000 Years" by Elizabeth Wayland
Barber, published in 1994 [ISBN 0-393-03506-0 (hardback)]. It's an expanded
chapter from her earlier book, "Prehistoric Textiles: the Development of
Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean"
(a wonderful scholarly book for fanatics like me <g>).

I'll sign off and go lay down on my ice bag for a while (it's for my lower
back, not my head <g>).

>From an easily aroused spinner and weaver in the Central Valley of
California, where a cold wind is blowing masses of leaves around,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 22:54:28 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 00:11:57 +0100
From: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

I have listed 2 very nice historic costume books on ebay:

Concise History of Costume and Fashion
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=212944598


Modes and Manners 16th C by von Boehn
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=213551061

Lois




--
Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 23:09:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 00:27:53 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/3/99 1:43:40 PM Central Standard Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<<  baby dolls dresses that were popular
 in the last 1960s to early 1970s.   >>

I never wore the dresses but I had several of the baby doll pj's.  I had one 
in red with little white hearts on it.  It had the matching panties.  It was 
one of my favorite as a young teen.  
I have some of my old patterns that my mom made me as a child.  Some of them 
are "in" again.  I have a top that would fit my daughter.  I just might make 
it up for her.
Now if I could find some of my favorite materials from back then.  One was a 
blue knit with penguins on it.  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 23:44:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 22:05:40 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 03:23 PM 03/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
>
>Ney, I say.  Skimmers were longer than baby doll dresses.  Skimmers were
>very light material - sometimes permanent pleated which like - floated

Permanent pleated material? As in you can wash it and possibly dry it and
no ironing and no drycleaning?

Is it still around? and what would the content be?

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 23:53:36 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
 differences in 	 fabric treatments
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)
>who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
>different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
>didn't exist'.

Perhaps she suffers from Black and White book photo syndrome :-)  I believe
there are some descriptions and black and white photos of some very
detailed muli-colored brocades in the Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd. There
are additional descriptions in text. Also there are some examples in Five
Centuries of Italian Textiles, A Selection from the Museo del Tessuto Prato
1300-1800 (No ISBN) organized by Rosalia Bonito Fanelli 1981

One thing to be careful of is popularity and fashion in period, and just
because it was possible, doesn't mean a particular pattern or color
combination was worn as clothing. By the pictoral evidence I have, I would
say that 3 or more colored brocades in Europe became much more popular
after 1600, though there seemed to be a brief fad in the late 15th c Italy.
Early 16th c German costumes are usually single colored or two colored.
When they are two-toned, inevitably one of the colors is black,
white/silver, or orange/gold. Their clothing brocade choices seemed to tend
toward heraldic color mixtures in taste, yet background furniture textiles
are more often multicolored brocades. In the book Textiler Hausrat,
Kleidung un Haustextilien in Nurnberg von 1500-1600 by Zander-Seidel, there
are chapters devoted to house textiles. These were often woven specifically
for various household purposes or decoration and clearly had some popular
patterns and weaves.  IMHO, we don't wear upholstery fabric now and they
didn't then.

In general,  I admit I tend to steer people away from brocades, mostly
because it takes a lot of study, analysis and somewhat of a good eye to
pick out a "period" brocade.  Some of the ones I've seen people pick just
come out badly.  When I was costume director of a Landsknecht re-enacting
group, I always pleaded with people to get swatches before purchasing that
showed the whole pattern. I hate to see people spend time and effort into
something that is just not right. The funny thing is that some very
interesting patterns can be found in period brocades. Some are very modern
geometric looking.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 00:01:12 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912040302.TAA02320@ivic.ivic.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 01:18:38 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

That's correct, the purpose of baby doll dresses was to wear them as short
as possible to show the matching bloomers or underpants.  My dress's hemline
met the bottom of the bloomers.  This was a fashion for teenagers.  In the
pattern front that I referred to, the girl on the right is showing her dress
very short and the bloomers showing.

The idea of this teenage fashion was stemmed off of little baby girls who
wore these types of outfits in the early 60s through early 80s.  The
bloomers or underpants were made to match, so that crawling babies' panties
matched their dress.  I had some of these baby doll dresses for Katie in the
early ninties.

Later... Penny

> -Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
>
> Ney, I say.  Skimmers were longer than baby doll dresses.  Skimmers were
> very light material - sometimes permanent pleated which like - floated
> around you as you moved, but came closer to the knee than the crotch (some
> more modest ones wore them to the knee).  Baby dolls inspired some to wear
> them so short that you always saw the ruffles underneath. ;-)).


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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 23:53:08 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

HERE! HERE! AND VIVOT!

If we were voting on such a thing, this gets mine.  Good going Drea.

Kathlene

----------
> From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
> Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 12:04 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> 
> Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> >   How about 'snarc'
> > Sorry Novice Attempt for Required Costume
>
> Except that it implies that it is the fault of the person being
> criticized.  :}
> Cynthia

  Yeah, you are right.  I realized it was backwards after I sent it...oh
well.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 03:04:44 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Someone wondered about the origin of the word "snark."  Lewis Carroll wrote a 
poem called "The Hunting of the Snark."  I assume he made it up, as he did so 
many other names.
Ann Wass 
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Drea
How absolutely wonderful. excellent; marvellous; Even as I type my friend is
trying to fit it to music. Could this be the anthem that will be sung at
costume and re-enactor events around the world.? Could it be more popular than
Synchronised Columbo. To whom should royalties be sent?
The next quiet Friday you get  finish the whole thing and let us know when it
hits Broadway; Perhaps Sir Cliff will be interested- he is not having a very
good time at the moment - bit of flack for ressurecting an Oldie for his
Christmas single and not selling out for his millennium concerts.
Keep up the good work.
Dave>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 09:59:28 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 99-12-03 22:31:16 EST, you write:

> Skimmers were longer than baby doll dresses.  Skimmers were
>  very light material - sometimes permanent pleated which like - floated
>  around you as you moved, but came closer to the knee than the crotch (some
>  more modest ones wore them to the knee).  Baby dolls inspired some to wear
>  them so short that you always saw the ruffles underneath. ;-)). 
>  
Well, I found the ANCIENT photo of me in my skimmer and it BARELY covered my 
rearend - the same length you describe for the baby doll.  It had bottoms  - 
somewhat skimpy ones  <G>but they were there - to go with it.   I don't 
remember anyone wearing something close to the knee and calling it a skimmer. 
 But then at the advanced age of 43 my brain may have turned to mush  ;-).

Pamela D. 

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,differences in 	 fabric treatments
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!
>>I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)


I was one of the folks who popularized its usage in the SCA, in the term
"garb snark" as a substitution for a term using the "N"-word, some years
ago.  I don't know that I actually invented the term, but for me was a back
formation of the term "snarky", as in "snarky remarks".  The fact that the
description of the snark in "The Hunting of the Snark" kinda fits was one of
those serendipidous sorts of things.....

I continue to promote the term, because I don't like the term "Nazi" used so
lightly, and "authenticity police" makes it seem as if those interested in
authenticity are by definition "enforcers."

Nicolaa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 10:47:05 1999
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9912031509450.15527-100000@kirk.dnaco.net> <004701bf3e72$ac9960b0$01075cc3@herimats>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 10:04:54 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> The next quiet Friday you get  finish the whole thing and let us know when
it
> hits Broadway; Perhaps Sir Cliff will be interested- he is not having a
very

If it goes to Broadway, who's going to do the costumes? <BG>



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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 09:59:02 -0800
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Here! Here!

Pray, do continue it!!!

    |                  
    |      
    |     Joan Broneske
   \|/    unicorn@softcom.net
   /|\
  //|\\ 

-----Original Message-----
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 2:26 PM
Subject: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark


>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
>out there..)
>
>The Hunting of the Snark
>or
>An Agonizing 8 Fittings
>
>"Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
>Arranging her skirts with care;
>Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
>Her finger aloft in the air.
>
>"Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
>That alone should bring one round.
>Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
>By god, I'll stand my ground.
>
>"Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
>the five unmistakeable marks
>by which you may know, wherever you go,
>the warrented, genuine Snarks.
>
>"Let us take them in order.  The first is their taste,
>An excess of which makes them quite rude;
>Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
>You're better off totally nude.
>
>"You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with care!
>You may lure them with velvet as well,
>You may ask them for documentation for their
>Inexpressibly period smell."
>
>Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...
>
>Drea
>
>
>On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
>
>> 
>> -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
>> 
>> >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
>> 
>> This one gets my vote for favorite!!
>> 
>> 
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>> 
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912031232.AA783679794@Herb-Lore.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi

> >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> 
> This one gets my vote for favorite!!

Mine too...

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 12:14:53 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1D0F5BB98E98D311B17E0008C75D0B3A03EC1F@HHSMAIL>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' 
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

>  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
> They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
> it.

ROTFL again! 

Henk

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9912031509450.15527-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 19:25:30 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Drea wrote:
> With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
> out there..)
>
> The Hunting of the Snark
> or
> An Agonizing 8 Fittings
>
> "Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
> Arranging her skirts with care;
> Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
> Her finger aloft in the air.
>
> "Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
> That alone should bring one round.
> Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
> By god, I'll stand my ground.
>
> "Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
> the five unmistakeable marks
> by which you may know, wherever you go,
> the warrented, genuine Snarks.
>
> "Let us take them in order.  The first is their taste,
> An excess of which makes them quite rude;
> Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
> You're better off totally nude.
>
> "You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with care!
> You may lure them with velvet as well,
> You may ask them for documentation for their
> Inexpressibly period smell."
>
> Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...
>
> Drea
>
>
ROTFL again!! This is getting outa hand! I feel my sides splitting... help!

Henk

PS  Tomorrow is St Nicholas overhere and a tradition with the Dutch is:
sticking poems (well, rhymes actually...) with the presents. They have to be
humorous and must say something about some defects or quirks of the
receiver. Is Drea Dutch, you think? She'll fit the bill! Easily!

Henk
> On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
>
> >
> > -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> >
> > >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> >
> > This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> >
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 13:32:19 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Snaps
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

I have an original 1909 ad in my bathroom which advertises "press fasteners" 
for sale and they are what we call snaps today. Hope this helps a little. Mela
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 13:48:23 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9912031355580.15527-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 02:04  03/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

My vote is with this one!

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 10:40:23 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

> and "authenticity police" makes it seem as if those interested in
>authenticity are by definition "enforcers."
>
>Nicolaa

So true and often such an incorrect assumption.  If someone asks why I did
something such and such a way or if such and such was period, I'll provide
my opinion, though usually couched with "this is the information I have at
this time" or "based on the documentation I've seen so far". I can't
imagine walking up to someone and critiquing their attire or other art
endeavor in most forums, especialy the SCA. It would just be rude.  There
are other re-enacting groups that have designated costume directors that
are concerned with such, but the people belonging to those groups have
already bought in to the level of authenticity that is required or they
wouldn't be there.  I've been in that position and did not find it a
particularly fun job.  The person in that position needs to have "teeth"
and so often the promised support from others in the group flitters away
when the "standards" really need enforcing.  Especially if its a big shot's
girlfriend or a good party buddy.  My biggest irritation is when "not so
knowledgable" members of the re-enacting group decide to become
"enforcers", but are actually just garb snarks.  Inevitably they are less
than tactful and often seem to take some joy in causing other people grief.
And usually they really don't know what they are talking about and end up
spreading costume myths that are often hard to get rid of.

On the other hand, I've heard requests from some of the journeyman and
senior level artists in our SCA area to have a forum to be able to ask for
a private and true critique of the Laurel "experts".  I would still do my
best to be very cautious and tactful in that kind of situation.

And gosh knows that I  don't worry about authenticity 100% of the time.
Just try being 100% authentic with a toddler....

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 12:36:55 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 13:54:08 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book' & SNARKS
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>This is an incredible book, I woke up early to read more.  Another
>question: I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it
>come from?) who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or >patterned
weaving (with different colors)wasn't possible between 1550->1600 because
the 'machines didn't exist'.

You could always tell them to check out the book:

"Prehistoric Textiles" by E.J.W. Barber.  ISBN 0-691-03597-0\

This is a fabulous book!  I saw Dr. Barber lecture on "The Mummies of
Urumachi"  (sorry I can't spell the wretched name <g> ) and she is
incredibly knowledgable!  On page 10 of "Prehistoric Textiles" she mentions
that some textile bits found from 3000 B.C. included brocading!  Isn't that
just totally WOW!  

Anyway, now you can tell the SNARK to stick that in her pipe and smoke it.  ;)

Cheers,
Danielle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 13:32:35 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>>  
>Well, I found the ANCIENT photo of me in my skimmer and it BARELY covered my 
>rearend - the same length you describe for the baby doll.  It had bottoms  - 
>somewhat skimpy ones  <G>but they were there - to go with it.

We called those "sizzlers". 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 14:08:16 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
In-Reply-To: <008801bf3e85$a96675a0$18d6f1c3@henk>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Wow, I didn't know the extent of people's enthusiasm for this one!  It's
quite flattering.  :)

If anyone puts it to music or wants to continue it, I'd love to see/hear
it.  I just picked a few verses at random.

Thanks,

Drea
Terrorizor of Snarks (and Boojums) Everywhere


> PS  Tomorrow is St Nicholas overhere and a tradition with the Dutch is:
> sticking poems (well, rhymes actually...) with the presents. They have to be
> humorous and must say something about some defects or quirks of the
> receiver. Is Drea Dutch, you think? She'll fit the bill! Easily!
> 
> Henk
> > On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> > >
> > > >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> > >
> > > This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> > >
> > >
> > >  _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 16:40:30 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Q E's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd *is* available through Amazon.co.uk!! My
copy is in the mail... I ordered it on 30 Oct and it was shipped on 26 Nov
(the day my credit card was charged) via Royal Mail. Price, with air mail
shipping from the UK, was GBP79.95, which translated to US$129.81, a bargain
in my book. Now all I need to do is wait until it arrives...

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 18:21:13 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991202191050.MPXL20526.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 00:40:00 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF3EB9.4352E080
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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WTO - very OTRobb;=20
Without differing with you in any respect; I would just say that you are =
lucky it gets into the media.
Here in the UK such things tend not get reported and if they are, are =
down played. During Kosovo daily demonstrations in our major cities were =
just not covered in our own media.
I do a little part time photowork for  a collective that specialises in =
pics of such for the dailies- a very mean time was had by all - the =
whole market just suddenly dried up overnight, leaving us with reams of =
unsaleable pictures.
Take care.
Dave
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: R.L. Shep=20
  To: h-costume=20
  Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 7:15 PM
  Subject: H-COST: WTO - very OT


  If you are not interested - delete this - but I think it is important =
for everyone to know what is happening in Seattle.=20

  I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be a =
trouble
  spot.
  But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the TV. There are
  pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations. I watch all of it.
  The police are PIGS. It is bad enough that they will not allow people =
to
  protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules. They =
set up
  a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest people =
OUTSIDE of
  that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed trying to get =
home from work.
  AND the things that they have been doing on Capital Hill at night are =
beyond
  belief.
  I really would like to know why they make it a point of beating women =
and
  obviously gay men on Capital Hill. People who are doing nothing but =
walking
  from one place to another. This is not a *no protest zone* this is
  basically a residential - known gay - area.
  I am FURIOUS. It is best that I stay far away from it all.
  The ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD.=20
  I will be glad when this is all over. But it won't really be over =
because
  the mayor and the police have a lot to answer for and I am sure that =
people
  here will not let them forget it.

  ~!~ R.L.Shep
  http://www.rlshep.com



------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF3EB9.4352E080
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>WTO - very OT</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2722.2800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Robb; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Without differing with you in any =
respect; I would=20
just say that you are lucky it gets into the media.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Here in the UK such things tend not get =
reported=20
and if they are, are down played. During Kosovo daily demonstrations in =
our=20
major cities were just not covered in our own media.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I do a little part time photowork =
for&nbsp;&nbsp;a=20
collective that specialises in pics of such for the dailies- a very mean =
time=20
was had by all - the whole market just suddenly dried up overnight, =
leaving us=20
with reams of unsaleable pictures.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Take care.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:rlshep@home.com" title=3Drlshep@home.com>R.L. =
Shep</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com"=20
  title=3Dh-costume@indra.com>h-costume</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, December 02, =
1999 7:15=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> H-COST: WTO - very =
OT</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=3D4><TT>If you are not interested - delete =
this - but=20
  I think it is important for everyone to know what is happening in =
Seattle.=20
  <BR><BR></FONT>I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that =
could be=20
  a trouble<BR>spot.<BR>But I cannot get anything done. I just stay =
glued to the=20
  TV. There are<BR>pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations. I =
watch all=20
  of it.<BR>The police are PIGS. It is bad enough that they will not =
allow=20
  people to<BR>protest... but they make rules and then break their own =
rules.=20
  They set up<BR>a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and =
arrest=20
  people OUTSIDE of<BR>that area. I know any numbr of people who were =
gassed=20
  trying to get home from work.<BR>AND the things that they have been =
doing on=20
  Capital Hill at night are beyond<BR>belief.<BR>I really would like to =
know why=20
  they make it a point of beating women and<BR>obviously gay men on =
Capital=20
  Hill. People who are doing nothing but walking<BR>from one place to =
another.=20
  This is not a *no protest zone* this is<BR>basically a residential - =
known gay=20
  - area.<BR>I am FURIOUS. It is best that I stay far away from it =
all.<BR>The=20
  ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD. <BR>I will be glad when =
this is=20
  all over. But it won't really be over because<BR>the mayor and the =
police have=20
  a lot to answer for and I am sure that people<BR>here will not let =
them forget=20
  it.<BR><BR>~!~ R.L.Shep<BR><FONT=20
  color=3D#0000ff><U>http://www.rlshep.com</U></FONT><BR><FONT=20
size=3D4><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></TT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF3EB9.4352E080--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 21:29:07 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Off topic - sewing machine advice requested.
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 22:48:55 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>


After reading this list the past year or so, I am finally ready to fix up my
sewing space.  I have a dress form on order, the parts to make a large
ironing table, and find to my horror that there are loud grinding noises
coming from my sewing machine. I figure I sew enough to upgrade to a fairly
decent one (better than the $150 Sears Kenmore I've been abusing for the
past 15 years), but would like some advice.  I understand Bernina's are good
(G-Street uses them in their classes), but what about the other brands?  Who
makes the Sears ones these days?  What about Brother, Singer, Husqvarna
(sp?), Pfaff?  I need to keep this in the triple digit price range.  If you
want to keep this off the list you can email me privately.  Thank you.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 22:48:58 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off topic - sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

My next sewing machine will be a Pfaff.  I think all of the European machines 
are of good quality, but I have had a Pfaff serger since 1992 and love it.  
The only problem I have ever had with it is that the timing finally had to be 
readjusted this year.  The model I want (the number escapes me) was on sale 
for $899 last summer, so is within the 3-digit price range if you can find it 
on sale.  (My regular sewing machines are a 20 year old Singer and a 26 year 
old Kenmore.  They are okay, but how I long to get an exciting new machine!)
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 22:53:59 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 23:12:46 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I have a White Jeans machine... it sews leather, has a triple lock
stitch, a free arm and I've done four plays & a Ren Faire with it as
well as mundane sewing with no problems.  I paid $280 which included
three years of free maintenance.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 22:56:55 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

At my second event I think it was, I was wearing a cream flannel dress
that had a wide (about a foot) stripe of rust colored fabric sewn about
four inches from the bottom with another strip of cream sewn to it to
make it floor length.  I had someone come up to me and tell me that they
did NOT "do that" in the middle ages.  I looked at her and said
something along the lines of, "I did it this way because I didn't have
enough fabric to make a full length dress from just the cream... somehow
I seriously doubt that my ancestors were *dumber* than I am... I'm sure
they were quite capable of coming up with the same solution."  Just the
fact that I didn't take the... let's be polite... stern criticism...
seemed to startle her.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:10:27 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Reenactment Episode
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 00:27:25 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Did anyone catch the Thanksgiving week episode of Southpark?  It was the
funniest yet.  They did a reenactment of the Civil War.  Cartman was Robert
E. Lee.  We were ROTFL.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:20:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off topic - sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> My next sewing machine will be a Pfaff.  I think all of the European machines 
> are of good quality, but I have had a Pfaff serger since 1992 and love it.  
> The only problem I have ever had with it is that the timing finally had to be 
> readjusted this year.  The model I want (the number escapes me) was on sale 
> for $899 last summer, so is within the 3-digit price range if you can find it 
> on sale.  (My regular sewing machines are a 20 year old Singer and a 26 year 
> old Kenmore.  They are okay, but how I long to get an exciting new machine!)

I'd agree with this. I have 2 sergers and 2 sewing machines (all 
Pfaffs). After working with them and several other machines over the 
years both at home and with others, I don't think I'd want any other 
kind. Of course, that doesn't stop me from wanting a machine which 
only does embroidery. Sigh. ;)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:34:30 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 21:57:33 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3027189454_67931_MIME_Part
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I read the *Electronic Telegraph* everyday. Interesting.  They reported
Seattle a bit, not much.  They also reported the demonstration outside
Euston Station on the Monday of last week.
Sometime I learn more about what is going on the the US from them than I do
from our papers and webpapers.
During this whole thing with the WTO I was most interested to see what made
the *national media* here.   Some of it got through.
We had 24 hour coverage on one local TV station and pretty good coverage on
other ones here.
What you have to keep in mind that you are closer to New York and we are!! 
The US is a BIG country.  And like it or not, if it does not make the news
in New York then it is not news!
Robb
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
Date: Sat, Dec 4, 1999, 4:40 PM


Robb; 
Without differing with you in any respect; I would just say that you are
lucky it gets into the media.
Here in the UK such things tend not get reported and if they are, are down
played. During Kosovo daily demonstrations in our major cities were just not
covered in our own media.
I do a little part time photowork for  a collective that specialises in pics
of such for the dailies- a very mean time was had by all - the whole market
just suddenly dried up overnight, leaving us with reams of unsaleable
pictures.
Take care.
Dave
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From:   R.L. Shep <mailto:rlshep@home.com>  
  To: h-costume <mailto:h-costume@indra.com>  
  Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 7:15   PM
  Subject: H-COST: WTO - very OT
  
If you are not interested - delete this - but   I think it is important for
everyone to know what is happening in Seattle.   
I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be   a trouble
spot.
But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the   TV. There are
pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations. I watch all   of it.
The police are PIGS. It is bad enough that they will not allow   people to
protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules.   They set up
a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest   people OUTSIDE
of
that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed   trying to get home
from work.
AND the things that they have been doing on   Capital Hill at night are
beyond
belief.
I really would like to know why   they make it a point of beating women and
obviously gay men on Capital   Hill. People who are doing nothing but
walking
from one place to another.   This is not a *no protest zone* this is
basically a residential - known gay   - area.
I am FURIOUS. It is best that I stay far away from it all.
The   ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD. 
I will be glad when this is   all over. But it won't really be over because
the mayor and the police have   a lot to answer for and I am sure that
people
here will not let them forget   it.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com


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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>I read the *Electronic Telegraph* everyday. Interesting.=
  They reported Seattle a bit, not much.  They also reported the demonstrati=
on outside Euston Station on the Monday of last week.<BR>
Sometime I learn more about what is going on the the US from them than I do=
 from our papers and webpapers.<BR>
During this whole thing with the WTO I was most interested to see what made=
 the *national media* here.   Some of it got through.<BR>
We had 24 hour coverage on one local TV station and pretty good coverage on=
 other ones here.<BR>
What you have to keep in mind that you are closer to New York and we are!! =
 The US is a BIG country.  And like it or not, if it does not make the news =
in New York then it is not news!<BR>
Robb<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
<BR>
----------<BR>
From: &quot;LDMundy&quot; &lt;dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk&gt;<BR>
To: &lt;h-costume@indra.com&gt;<BR>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT<BR>
Date: Sat, Dec 4, 1999, 4:40 PM<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Robb; </FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Without differing with you in any respect; I wou=
ld just say that you are lucky it gets into the media.</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4">=
<TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Here in the UK such things tend not get reported=
 and if they are, are down played. During Kosovo daily demonstrations in our=
 major cities were just not covered in our own media.</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><=
TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">I do a little part time photowork for  a collect=
ive that specialises in pics of such for the dailies- a very mean time was h=
ad by all - the whole market just suddenly dried up overnight, leaving us wi=
th reams of unsaleable pictures.</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Take care.</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Dave</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
  ----- Original Message ----- <BR>
  </TT></FONT><B>From:</B><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>   R.L. Shep &lt;mailto:rlshep=
@home.com&gt;  <BR>
  </TT></FONT><B>To:</B><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT> h-costume &lt;mailto:h-costume@=
indra.com&gt;  <BR>
  </TT></FONT><B>Sent:</B><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT> Thursday, December 02, 1999 7=
:15   PM<BR>
  </TT></FONT><B>Subject:</B><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT> H-COST: WTO - very OT<BR>
  <BR>
If you are not interested - delete this - but   I think it is important for=
 everyone to know what is happening in Seattle.   <BR>
I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be   a trouble=
<BR>
spot.<BR>
But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the   TV. There are<BR=
>
pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations. I watch all   of it.<BR>
The police are PIGS. It is bad enough that they will not allow   people to<=
BR>
protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules.   They set u=
p<BR>
a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest   people OUTSIDE =
of<BR>
that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed   trying to get home =
from work.<BR>
AND the things that they have been doing on   Capital Hill at night are bey=
ond<BR>
belief.<BR>
I really would like to know why   they make it a point of beating women and=
<BR>
obviously gay men on Capital   Hill. People who are doing nothing but walki=
ng<BR>
from one place to another.   This is not a *no protest zone* this is<BR>
basically a residential - known gay   - area.<BR>
I am FURIOUS. It is best that I stay far away from it all.<BR>
The   ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD. <BR>
I will be glad when this is   all over. But it won't really be over because=
<BR>
the mayor and the police have   a lot to answer for and I am sure that peop=
le<BR>
here will not let them forget   it.<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"><U>http://www.rlshep.com</U></FONT><FONT =
SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3027189454_67931_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:42:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 00:00:17 -0600
From: Winifred Smith <winifred.smith@imsday.com>
Organization: Windy's Pockets
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: Winifred Smith <winifred.smith@imsday.com>

I think this group of post is a prime example of something that I keep pointing
out.  If we can get this many names and description of some that was made just 20
or 30 years ago and the ones of us who wore it are still alive, just think of the
differences that must have existed 200 or 300 years ago. I think this is why
historical clothing is so hard to research and causes so much confusion, and why
it is so interesting.

Windy aka Momma M'Crack
Liberty, Texas

Margo Anderson wrote:

> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> >>
> >Well, I found the ANCIENT photo of me in my skimmer and it BARELY covered my
> >rearend - the same length you describe for the baby doll.  It had bottoms  -
> >somewhat skimpy ones  <G>but they were there - to go with it.
>
> We called those "sizzlers".
>
> Margo
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 22:06:16 -0800
Subject: H-COST: Sorry
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I am sorry about that last message.... I thought I was responding to an *off
list* message.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:44:08 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 01:03:12 -0500
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Back in 1963-5, I had a baby doll dress, but it was emplire waist, full
gathered skirt, and just above knee-length.  I was in college at the
time and the style was rarely worn.  No bloomers needed.  My friends
thought it looked too much like a maternity outfit (even though I was
very thin),so I went back to fitted dresses.  Salem, MA just wasn't with
it.
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston,MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:48:57 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 07:08:29 +0100
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off topic - sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>

I have a Pfaff creative 7550, computer sewing machine, which I got 
in 1995 as a graduation present. It has 200 stitches, it embroiders, 
comes with PC designer software so that you can make your own 
embroidery patterns, sews leather and any other fabric you can 
think off, special transport for chiffon and silks so they won't pucker, 
free arm, many different button holes both mechanically and 
electronically (type in the length and width and it does it 
automatically) and god knows whatever else. I just love it and 
couldn't live without it anymore. Practically indistructible (no plactics 
insides, all metal), three year free service which I didn't need once. 
It is a German make and cost about 4.000 DM, I think that would be 
around 2.000 dollar. I don't know what Pfaff costs in America 
though. It's a machine for a lifetime and a special treat. Today there 
are the 7560 and 7570 on the market.
http://www.pfaff.com/
Just saw they had an English language homepage too.
P.S. I don't recommend Singer, my mother had too many problems 
after only a very few years since Singer switched over to using 
plastic parts inside, some broke and it was impossible to repair it, or 
would have been incredibly expensive. They advertise with 
'featherlight' but I rather have a sturdy though computerised heavy 
model than a lightweight one which breaks easily. So she got a Pfaff 
as well, they have lots of different makes, all levels.
I was told Husquarna is quite good as well. But that's all the makes I 
know, somehow the German/European market is rather ruled by 
Pfaff *laughs* now what a surprise...
Have fun and good luck finding the right machine!
Nicole
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 23:13:25 -0800
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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 differences infabric treatments
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"Bergdahl, Stephen" wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
> 
> Maggie makes a very good point.  That type of person will never let
> something as simple as facts get in the way of what they "Know".  Best
> example I have heard to date was at Fort Sutter here in Sacramento.  Someone
> told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
> used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
> was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
> history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
> They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
> it.

ROTFL!!!!!  Oh, that's priceless.  I'll have to save that one.

Still giggling,
Carolyn

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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 18:10:39 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

>There  are other re-enacting groups that have designated costume directors
that are concerned with >such,

What's worse is when the costume directors decide to go on "what looks good"
rather than what is accurate.  I've seen examples of this - and the same
people then bag the SCA for not being authentic enough!

What I love though is that a lot of these people are only too willing to use
SCA research - and their garments are accurate - but not  to the time period
of their group!

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn


>

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 01:08:49 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

>
> So true and often such an incorrect assumption.  If someone asks why I did
> something such and such a way or if such and such was period, I'll provide
> my opinion, though usually couched with "this is the information I have at
> this time" or "based on the documentation I've seen so far". I can't
> imagine walking up to someone and critiquing their attire or other art
> endeavor in most forums, especially the SCA. It would just be rude.

Certainly unasked critiquing is rude, and only excusable when it is done in
a fit of absence of mind (and manners), which happens only occasionally.
However, sometimes the critiquing is done to a second party, not involved
with the wearer, who asks "is _that_ period?".  At which time a discussion
takes places (quietly, and away from the wearer).  Unfortunately, many garb
snarks and their counterparts of police, policing garb snarks, then find it
necessary to carry tales to the wearer with "you should hear what Lady X is
saying about _your_ garb."  Usually the language and/or criticism is far
from what was actually said.  The tattletale achieves the smug pleasure of
spoiling someone else's fun, and smearing the people who find authenticity a
fascinating subject in and of itself.

Question however:  The longer I am a Laurel, and in the SCA, the more I
realize I do not know about my chosen field (the Middle Ages in Western
Europe alone is a BIG place!).  What are the suggestions for asking someone
for documentation for a piece you are interested in?  I remember the first
time I saw a replica of one of the Bog Dresses from Denmark (not the Irish
or Herjolfness ones).  It looked so "wrong".  I tried my very best to be
polite and asked where the outfit came from, she was taken aback, and I
think a little scared.  They we went to her car where she had books in
Danish with a picture of the particular find which is a bolero length, short
sleeved top and I think, a string skirt.  I learned something I would not
have known for years by asking for documentation.

At the same event was a young lady dressed right out of Elf Quest, and she
knew it and said so when I asked about her costume.

Bottom line, if you don't ask about something you'll be left ignorant.  The
trick, and it is a real trick, is to ask so you don't come across as
accusatory. With some people this is simply impossible, since the act of
asking the question makes you "rude".

Regina Romsey, OL

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 04:06:37 1999
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Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_H-COST:_Mus=E9e_des_Tissus_catalog=3F?=
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Nor have I.  Does the MdT have a catalog?  Do you know it's name? 
>I'm afraid I dont actually own a slide projector.  So retrotech.

Cyn - if you get any such slides, please let me lend you my slide projector.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Clothes beasties OT
In-Reply-To: <1aD5pAAcoBS4IwHx@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>I know Scotland has a terrible social problem of damp in housing, but
>I've never had any trouble with fabrics - certainly not in year-to-year
>terms, though I don't know about preserving costumes over long periods.
>Reasonable heating and ventilation is all it needs.  Admittedly our
>towels never dry in the bathroom, but I think that's down to the lack of
>either - we hang them over a chair in the living room :)

Folks in houseboats, and in our Pacific Northwest, sometimes leave a low
wattage lightbulb on all the time in damp closets.  15 watts is enough.
This keeps said closets too dry to allow the growth of mold.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 04:06:39 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 02:23:39 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
In-Reply-To: <LPBBKNMJBFAPBEPPLOBJCEIMCDAA.madilayn@one.net.au>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

and the same
>people then bag the SCA for not being authentic enough!

The thing is that nobody can be 100% accurate.  There's always some point
on which people compromise.  Was the velvet woven by hand, of period
materials, and dyed with period-available dye?  If one so much as used
fluorescent light to sew by, or used modern thread and a modern steel
needle, the garment less than perfectly period.  So why get hung up on
perfectionism?  I can see trying to do things just the way another time or
culture did, for the learning experience, but I can't see the rudeness
which goes with perfectionism.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
In-Reply-To: <l03130300b46f0b05bfdf@[207.167.66.88]>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Just try being 100% authentic with a toddler....

Let them run around in their shirts.  Plenty of period pictures of that,
pick a period.  And leading strings are always good.  OTOH, I did crochet a
plastic bottle tidy for my kids for Victorian use.


Kayta
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 01:58:06 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>As to brocade weaves, the Chinese invented the draw-loom
>which allows elaborate patterning. Not sure of the date, 
>but poss. B.C.  And the Central Asian and Persian weavers
>learned it from them, and so on.
>  Numerous examples of T'ang dynasty (ca 8-9th c.) patterned
>silks have been found in western China (formerly Chinese
>Turkestan) of Chinese manufacture as well as Sogdian and
>Iranian. 

We're not talking about tapestry weaves here, are we?  The Coptic people
were doing that in some one-digit century, presumable with low-tech looms.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
  differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
>different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
>didn't exist'.  

I have several photos, in an exhibit book from an exhibition of church
vestments, showing very complicated weaves from the 1400's-1600's.  This
ought to be well before M. Jacquard, and his pattern weaving machine, were
born. 


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Thank you.  This is indeed the difference between polite and rude.

>Certainly unasked critiquing is rude, and only excusable when it is done in
>a fit of absence of mind (and manners), which happens only occasionally.
>However, sometimes the critiquing is done to a second party, not involved
>with the wearer, who asks "is _that_ period?".  At which time a discussion
>takes places (quietly, and away from the wearer).  Unfortunately, many garb
>snarks and their counterparts of police, policing garb snarks, then find it
>necessary to carry tales to the wearer with "you should hear what Lady X is
>saying about _your_ garb."  Usually the language and/or criticism is far
>from what was actually said.  The tattletale achieves the smug pleasure of
>spoiling someone else's fun, and smearing the people who find authenticity a
>fascinating subject in and of itself.
>
>Question however:  The longer I am a Laurel, and in the SCA, the more I
>realize I do not know about my chosen field (the Middle Ages in Western
>Europe alone is a BIG place!).  What are the suggestions for asking someone
>for documentation for a piece you are interested in?  I remember the first
>time I saw a replica of one of the Bog Dresses from Denmark (not the Irish
>or Herjolfness ones).  It looked so "wrong".  I tried my very best to be
>polite and asked where the outfit came from, she was taken aback, and I
>think a little scared.  They we went to her car where she had books in
>Danish with a picture of the particular find which is a bolero length, short
>sleeved top and I think, a string skirt.  I learned something I would not
>have known for years by asking for documentation.
>
>At the same event was a young lady dressed right out of Elf Quest, and she
>knew it and said so when I asked about her costume.
>
>Bottom line, if you don't ask about something you'll be left ignorant.  The
>trick, and it is a real trick, is to ask so you don't come across as
>accusatory. With some people this is simply impossible, since the act of
>asking the question makes you "rude".



Kayta
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 09:13:05 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 11:13 AM 12/3/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
>
>MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
>> 
>> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>> 
>> There's always someone who things everyone in the past was stupid, and that
>> nothing of quality can be made without machines.  Like the visitor to
>> Colonial Williamsburg who told the sadler that what he was doing was
>> impossible because only machines could do that kind of work.  Or another,
>> who wondered with awe if they had needles "back then".
>
>I go the other way -- I can't imagine how machines can do
>stuff I only know how to do by hand!
>

        That is what people miss.  It is far more impressive that technology
has given us machines that CAN do work priviously only done by hand.  I work
for the museum mentioned in Maggie's quote, and we get questions doubting
that something can be done or existed in the period all the time.  Rarely is
it about anything that is even NEW in the 18th century.  (I was informed
while locked in an original gaol cell last thursday that there was no METAL
in the 18th century!  Not only were we well into the iron age, but the iron
he mentioned dated from the period!!.

        We are never asked about the steam pump, or the jacquard loom, or
the incredible scientific equipment available in the period, but rather
about nails, neddles, architecture.....

Oh well,

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 08:35:32 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 09:51:05 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 02:23 AM 12/5/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>and the same
>>people then bag the SCA for not being authentic enough!
>
>The thing is that nobody can be 100% accurate.  There's always some point
>on which people compromise.  Was the velvet woven by hand, of period
>materials, and dyed with period-available dye?  If one so much as used
>fluorescent light to sew by, or used modern thread and a modern steel
>needle, the garment less than perfectly period.  So why get hung up on
>perfectionism?  I can see trying to do things just the way another time or
>culture did, for the learning experience, but I can't see the rudeness
>which goes with perfectionism.
>
>
>Kayta

        There is NO reason that perfectionism and rudeness have to go
together.  The fact that they so often do is unfortunate as it give us
perfectionists who couldn't care less what others do a bad name.  

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 08:57:03 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
In-Reply-To: <015401bf3ed3$a98a54e0$0200a8c0@pavilion>
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

--=====================_207988923==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Some comments on the sewing machine dilemma, from one who has owned 8 
different machines, and 3 sergers:

Don't buy any Singer that is not black cast iron

Bernina makes the BEST home sewing machines. Period.

A good used Bernina sews better than most new machines.

Pfaff does not make any sergers. None of the sewing machine companies do. 
They go to the experts, factories in Japan or China, and have sergers made 
to their own specifications. Of course, they offer their own warranties.

The dealer makes a difference. I hate to say it, but you may be better off 
with a not-quite-as-good brand of machine, if the dealer is friendly, 
helpful, supportive and up-to-date.

New machines are DIFFERENT than your old Kenmore. Computerized machines 
offer many features that save time and effort, and improve your sewing. You 
might need to learn a few new tricks, so it's good to have a dealer who 
gives lessons, which should be included in the price of a new machine, but 
probably not a used one.

Dealers tend to sell machines by extolling their "bells and whistles." 
Manufacturers add lots of stitches, most of which you will never use, to 
make more expensive (and thus more profitable) machines.

These are the features that are really helpful, and get used:

electronic foot control
         The foot pedal responds EXACTLY to what you want to do. One tap, 
and you get the needle up (if it was down) or down (if it was up). Tap the 
other end of the pedal and get one and only one complete stitch.

needle stop up/down
         Electronic machines automatically stop with the needle in the 
fully UP position. Or, push a button and the opposite will always occur.

Remember the flywheel?  I haven't touched mine in years because of these 2 
features. I can keep my hands on the fabric and save time.

reverse sewing control
         Most machines have this button way over to the left. Get one that 
has it just above the needle, so you don't have to take one hand off the 
fabric to use it--just reach up with a thumb. Hey, if women were designing 
these things, all machines would be that way!

knee lever
         This presser foot lifter means you can use your knee to lift the 
presser foot, and don't have to take your hands off the work for turning 
corners or other adjustments, or even to stop and start a seam. WARNING: 
don't use a machine with this lever unless you can afford to buy it. Once 
you get used to this, it's absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to live without!

That said, if you have to choose between all those convenience features and 
a consistently good straight stitch, choose the stitch.

If you haven't had enough of my opinions yet, respond privately and I will 
answer questions.

Kim

At 10:48 PM 12/04/1999 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>
>After reading this list the past year or so, I am finally ready to fix up my
>sewing space.  I have a dress form on order, the parts to make a large
>ironing table, and find to my horror that there are loud grinding noises
>coming from my sewing machine. I figure I sew enough to upgrade to a fairly
>decent one (better than the $150 Sears Kenmore I've been abusing for the
>past 15 years), but would like some advice.  I understand Bernina's are good
>(G-Street uses them in their classes), but what about the other brands?  Who
>makes the Sears ones these days?  What about Brother, Singer, Husqvarna
>(sp?), Pfaff?  I need to keep this in the triple digit price range.  If you
>want to keep this off the list you can email me privately.  Thank you.
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--=====================_207988923==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
Some comments on the sewing machine dilemma, from one who has owned 8
different machines, and 3 sergers:<br>
<br>
Don't buy any Singer that is not black cast iron<br>
<br>
Bernina makes the BEST home sewing machines. Period.<br>
<br>
A good used Bernina sews better than most new machines.<br>
<br>
Pfaff does not make any sergers. None of the sewing machine companies do.
They go to the experts, factories in Japan or China, and have sergers
made to their own specifications. Of course, they offer their own
warranties.<br>
<br>
The dealer makes a difference. I hate to say it, but you may be better
off with a not-quite-as-good brand of machine, if the dealer is friendly,
helpful, supportive and up-to-date.<br>
<br>
New machines are DIFFERENT than your old Kenmore. Computerized machines
offer many features that save time and effort, and improve your sewing.
You might need to learn a few new tricks, so it's good to have a dealer
who gives lessons, which should be included in the price of a new
machine, but probably not a used one.<br>
<br>
Dealers tend to sell machines by extolling their &quot;bells and
whistles.&quot; Manufacturers add lots of stitches, most of which you
will never use, to make more expensive (and thus more profitable)
machines.<br>
<br>
These are the features that are really helpful, and get used:<br>
<br>
<b>electronic foot control<br>
</b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>The
foot pedal responds EXACTLY to what you want to do. One tap, and you get
the needle up (if it was down) or down (if it was up). Tap the other end
of the pedal and get one and only one complete stitch.<br>
<br>
<b>needle stop up/down<br>
</b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Electronic
machines automatically stop with the needle in the fully UP position. Or,
push a button and the opposite will always occur.<br>
<br>
Remember the flywheel?&nbsp; I haven't touched mine in years because of
these 2 features. I can keep my hands on the fabric and save time.<br>
<br>
<b>reverse sewing control<br>
</b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Most
machines have this button way over to the left. Get one that has it just
above the needle, so you don't have to take one hand off the fabric to
use it--just reach up with a thumb. Hey, if women were designing these
things, all machines would be that way!<br>
<br>
<b>knee lever<br>
</b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>This
presser foot lifter means you can use your knee to lift the presser foot,
and don't have to take your hands off the work for turning corners or
other adjustments, or even to stop and start a seam. WARNING: don't use a
machine with this lever unless you can afford to buy it. Once you get
used to this, it's absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to live without!<br>
<br>
That said, if you have to choose between all those convenience features
and a consistently good straight stitch, choose the stitch.<br>
<br>
If you haven't had enough of my opinions yet, respond privately and I
will answer questions.<br>
<br>
Kim<br>
<br>
At 10:48 PM 12/04/1999 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>-Poster: &quot;Megan McHugh&quot;
&lt;mmchugh@starpower.net&gt;<br>
<br>
<br>
After reading this list the past year or so, I am finally ready to fix up
my<br>
sewing space.&nbsp; I have a dress form on order, the parts to make a
large<br>
ironing table, and find to my horror that there are loud grinding
noises<br>
coming from my sewing machine. I figure I sew enough to upgrade to a
fairly<br>
decent one (better than the $150 Sears Kenmore I've been abusing for
the<br>
past 15 years), but would like some advice.&nbsp; I understand Bernina's
are good<br>
(G-Street uses them in their classes), but what about the other
brands?&nbsp; Who<br>
makes the Sears ones these days?&nbsp; What about Brother, Singer,
Husqvarna<br>
(sp?), Pfaff?&nbsp; I need to keep this in the triple digit price
range.&nbsp; If you<br>
want to keep this off the list you can email me privately.&nbsp; Thank
you.<br>
<br>
&nbsp;_________________________________________________________________<br>
&nbsp;To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com<br>
&nbsp;with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME</blockquote></html>

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:33:01 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I found another brand on the internet last night.  Does anyone have =
experience with Elna?  So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and =
Bernina seem to be the favorites.  Thanks again.


------=_NextPart_000_004D_01BF3F0C.1B30BE80
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I found another brand on the =
internet last=20
night.&nbsp; Does anyone have experience with Elna?&nbsp; So far (as oof =
10:30=20
am Sunday), Pfaff and Bernina seem to be the favorites.&nbsp; Thanks=20
again.</FONT></DIV>
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 09:41:17 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
In-Reply-To: <005001bf3f36$062783a0$0200a8c0@pavilion>
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

--=====================_245300==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Elna used to be made in Sweden. Now it is an American company. Many owners 
of older Elnas like them very much, but I don't know how the new machine 
compares.

Another brand you haven't mentioned is Janome/New Home, a Japanese-made 
machine that I have heard good things about.

Kim


At 10:33 AM 12/05/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>I found another brand on the internet last night.  Does anyone have 
>experience with Elna?  So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and Bernina 
>seem to be the favorites.  Thanks again.
>>

--=====================_245300==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
Elna used to be made in Sweden. Now it is an American company. Many
owners of older Elnas like them very much, but I don't know how the new
machine compares.<br>
<br>
Another brand you haven't mentioned is Janome/New Home, a Japanese-made
machine that I have heard good things about.<br>
<br>
Kim<br>
<br>
<br>
At 10:33 AM 12/05/1999 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<font size=2><blockquote type=cite cite>I found another brand on the
internet last night.&nbsp; Does anyone have experience with Elna?&nbsp;
So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and Bernina seem to be the
favorites.&nbsp; Thanks again.</font><br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>&nbsp;</blockquote></blockquote></html>

--=====================_245300==_.ALT--

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Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:43:50 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

In a message dated 12/5/1999 9:58:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kimbaird@uswest.net writes:

> Pfaff does not make any sergers. None of the sewing machine companies do. 
>  They go to the experts, factories in Japan or China, and have sergers made 
>  to their own specifications. Of course, they offer their own warranties.
>  
To correct this, true, Pfaff does not make the serger but they DO (at least 
when I bought mine) produce the electronic components.

And I know people that love their Berninas and Vikings, too.  As I said, I 
think any of the European machines are of good quality.

Amen, though, to all the stitches we will never use.  To get the features I 
want, when I can afford it, I will have to take a bunch of other stuff.  It's 
kind of like a car, I suppose.  If you want, say, power windows, you have to 
take the whole "accessory package."  

Ann Wass  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 09:36:19 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 09:55:19 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >Just try being 100% authentic with a toddler....
> 
> Let them run around in their shirts.  Plenty of period pictures of
> that, pick a period.  And leading strings are always good.  OTOH, I
> did crochet a plastic bottle tidy for my kids for Victorian use.

Well, I must admit that I used disposable diapers/pull-ups with my
children.  OTOH you never *saw* them because they both wear complete &
accurate garb over the items in question.  I did have to use a bottle
with Jennifer but I nursed Corwyn so I didn't have that question with
him and as soon as they went to cups I had child sized tankards for
them.  What always startled me though was seeing children dressed in an
adult t-shirt for a tunic & a pair of tennis shoes.  My children always
wear a t-tunic or dress, tights and either boots, the most period
looking maryjanes I can find, sandals or medieval moccasins.  The latter
are quite economical because the children can wear them for several
years... in fact, from infancy to size 12 (which Jennifer is in now) I
have only had to use five pairs of them.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 10:37:14 1999
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

I love my White too...  It has all metal construction, sews leather
armor and sheer silk with equal ease, and I recently purchased a foot
that will convert it into a one thread serger if I use the correct
stitches.  It has survived 6 years of hard use and my mom dropping it on
concrete without need of repairs.  I do maintain it properly, tho.  ;>
It doesn't have all the bells and whistles that Pfaffs and Berninas of
the same general type do, but it cost me a lot less too.  One word of
warning, do _not_ buy a machine that has plastic parts!  They _will_
wear out.  I spent last night poking at a friend's machine's innards
trying to fix it, until I noticed the gears were worn out....

-Magdalena


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 11:20:27 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 17:56:11 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

In my various uk groups we often refer to thes people as doctor details.
In the Napoleonic Association there is one particular person who was
very much like this and often criticised clothing, She also dressed as a
male soldier. On one particular occassion when I was congratulated on a
gown with the aside of 'of course trains were oldfashioned by 1810' I
recall a reply of ----- when you get balls then you can criticise untill
then you are less authentic than I am. 

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 11:39:17 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>>Bottom line, if you don't ask about something you'll be left ignorant.
The
>>trick, and it is a real trick, is to ask so you don't come across as
>>accusatory. With some people this is simply impossible, since the act of
>>asking the question makes you "rude".


The trick, I've found, is to bubble with enthusiasm. It's very, very
difficult to come off as rude this way.  "What a neat way of cutting that
gown!  It looks wonderful on you.  Where DID you learn to do that?"  That,
along with an open mind (you never know what's going to turn up as being
accurate-people are learning new things about historic dress every day) will
get you far.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 11:43:53 1999
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Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 13:01:46 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #829
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 12/5/99 12:41:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,  someone writes:

<< Elna used to be made in Sweden. Now it is an American company. Many owners 
 of older Elnas like them very much, but I don't know how the new machine 
 compares.>>

Incorrect.  Elnas were Swiss made (though if an American company has bought 
them out, they may be manufactured in this country, too).  

Viking-Husqvarna is/was made in Sweden.  The sewing machine portion of Viking 
was bought by White here in the US, a few years ago I believe). I've sewn on 
both Elnas and Viking, and I bought a Viking 990 (was top of the line when I 
bought it a dozen or more years ago).  I like the machine.. it has more fancy 
stitches than I need, and it's been solid and dependable through a lot of 
sewing... home dec, costuming and professional suits for work.  My 990 isn't 
even in the same LEAGUE anymore as far as bells and whistles with the current 
top of the line machines, though......

I also tried Bernina and Pfaff when I was shopping for a machine.  A close 
friend has a Pfaff (she'd just gotten it) and after using it a few times, I 
didn't like how it felt.  It was (to me) too ponderous... not responsive 
enough to the controls.  The Berninas I tried felt like driving a five speed 
on a dump truck, and the machine I used "hammered" at the fabric.  I was not 
impressed, so I bought the Viking.  This isn't to say that both Bernina and 
Pfaff don't make good machines.... it could easily be that the particular 
models I was looking at were iffy, or that the dealers weren't maintaining 
them properly.... and my experience might be entirely different if I were to 
do the same tests today with my bag 'o scraps.
 
<< Another brand you haven't mentioned is Janome/New Home, a Japanese-made 
 machine that I have heard good things about. >>

I can't speak to the Janome/New Home sewing machines, but I recently (within 
the last six months) retired my Viking serger and bought a Janome CompuLock.  
I absolutely ADORE it!!  (This is my third serger and by *far* the easiest to 
use, and makes an absolutely perfect stitch.  I know I'm not pushing this 
machine's capabilities yet, but it's been very impressive).

Ditto to the comments about buying from a dealer who will actually "be there" 
for you... it makes a world of difference.  

~M
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 16:06:31 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 17:21:58 -0500
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

Minor correction.  An American company, Tacony out of St. Louis is the 
American distributor of Elna Machines (Elna USA).  The machines are NOT 
made in the US.  To my knowledge, there are no sewing machines or sergers 
made in the US with the possible exception of the Featherweight 
reproduction that is coming out this Christmas.  The Elna 9006 (Envision) 
was made in Japan, the CLUB; Switzerland, DIVA; Switzerland, 8000; 
Switzerland, 3007; Taiwan, 3005; Taiwan, 2002, 2004, and 2006; all 
Taiwan.  Book value on the Envision is $659.50.  You might be able to 
pick up one of those used reasonably.

Lisa
www.sewingcentral.com

Kim Baird wrote:

>Elna used to be made in Sweden. Now it is an American company. Many owners 
>of older Elnas like them very much, but I don't know how the new machine 
>compares.
>
>Another brand you haven't mentioned is Janome/New Home, a Japanese-made 
>machine that I have heard good things about.
>
>Kim
>
>
>At 10:33 AM 12/05/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>>I found another brand on the internet last night.  Does anyone have 
>>experience with Elna?  So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and Bernina 
>>seem to be the favorites.  Thanks again.
>>>
>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> >As to brocade weaves, the Chinese invented the draw-loom
> >which allows elaborate patterning. Not sure of the date,
> >but poss. B.C.  And the Central Asian and Persian weavers
> >learned it from them, and so on.
> >  Numerous examples of T'ang dynasty (ca 8-9th c.) patterned
> >silks have been found in western China (formerly Chinese
> >Turkestan) of Chinese manufacture as well as Sogdian and
> >Iranian.
> 
> We're not talking about tapestry weaves here, are we?  The Coptic people
> were doing that in some one-digit century, presumable with low-tech looms.
> 

Hi Carolyn --

Nope. The tapestry weave is one of the few things the Chinese
didn't invent! They learned it from the Central Asian people
(proto-Turks??) who used it in rug weaving. (I've seen this
in print, but don't have the energy to look it up.) Tapestry
weave is ko-ssu (sp?) in Chinese and kesi in Japanese and
I *want* some!

I don't know the technical terms, but someone else also
mentioned that the Chinese invented the drawloom a couple
of millenia ago. And I have definately seen pictures of 
brocaded textiles from the 8th c. One source of documention
is the *fabulous* book "When silk was gold" base on items
in the Cleveland and Metropolitan Museums.

Susan

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 17:55:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 19:27:39 -0500
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-Poster: wendy Colbert <wendyc@vivid.net>

Megan McHugh wrote:
> 
> I found another brand on the internet last night.  Does anyone have
> experience with Elna?  So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and
> Bernina seem to be the favorites.  Thanks again.
> 
>       
I have an ELna Diva and I love it.  I bought it lightly used to upgrade
from the ancient top of the line Kenmore that I was using.  I purchased
the Diva because a friend had one and I tried hers out and liked it.

It doesn't handle 8 layers of heavy poly cotton as well as the Kenmore
but the embroidery and precision is better.

Wendy Colbert
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 18:13:33 1999
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>What's worse is when the costume directors decide to go on "what looks good"
>rather than what is accurate.  I've seen examples of this - and the same
>people then bag the SCA for not being authentic enough!

I totally agree. I've seen this in the Renn faire stuff a lot, especially
with color "rules", like "no pink", or only the Queen wears purple (even
though the purple they choose is not "Imperial Purple"), but is actually a
purple that can be made with cheaper natural dyes.

A personal example: there was a statement by another costume director that
all men of doppelsoldner rank and above in the landsknecht group should
have more than 3 colors in their costume, yet most of my research indicated
that two colors were predominant, with a very small percentage of 3 or more
colors.  Though it was a "theatrical" decision, it has now become a costume
myth that landsknechts wear so many colors. Between that an the art in the
Osprey Landknecht book, it is now an assumed truth.

Unfortunately even most reeactors do their research by looking at the
clothes other people are wearing, thus my standard warning "its not usually
a good idea to do all your research at an event, and when you do, ask
questions."

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 18:13:45 1999
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 <002301bf3e77$1f98c840$83811a18@dsc.columbus.rr.com>
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: H-COST:  Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>>Just try being 100% authentic with a toddler....
>
>Let them run around in their shirts.  Plenty of period pictures of that,
>pick a period.  And leading strings are always good.

I do that, but mine wear disposables and I make diaper covers, neither of
which I have period examples for. And shirts alone only works for warm
days. I even have a coral necklace for my toddler to give him good
health:-) My kids are extremely well-dressed compared to most. I stock up
on period-looking shoes in most sizes when I find them at thrift stores and
such, so I have something for them for most ages.  When we do landsknects,
both boys wear leather puff and slash, striped hosen and feathered hats. My
oldest son, age 6, finally graduated to full lederhosen with codpiece. Very
cute.  When we do 19th c, they've got outfits based on Workwoman's guide
and otehr period paintings and I even put out a 19th c walker for display.
But still I often bring out other items which are not 100% period, like if
we are at an SCA event over 3 days, I will bring out my plastic high chair
for feeding times inside the pavilion, just because it contains the mess of
my youngest who will otherwise scatter food everywhere...

I really needed leading strings for my oldest when he was a toddler. This
second one isn't a runner, so its a lot easier. We also made a wooden
portable fence that is set up as a "play yard" that looks pretty good (and
I have references for similar devices for most periods.) Its usually only
the diaper and shoes part of the costuming that I'm not 100% on,  but since
I'm not perfect, how can I expect others to be?  We usually manage "visual"
accuracy pretty well, but behind the scenes some things are 20th c - like
diapers and plastic bottles.

>OTOH, I did crochet a
>plastic bottle tidy for my kids for Victorian use.

Since I couldn't nurse 100% of the time, I made linen drawstring bags to
cover my bottles. But there is a point that I just don't go too, like
making leather "nipples" for ceramic bottles for example which would be the
16th c equivlent...  but I collect and make cloth, wooden and leather toys
for them to play with, and besides much of the time they are happy with
dirt, sticks and rocks :-)

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 22:42:45 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Interesting item on eBay web site item#212853272: 4  ANTIQUE  WOODEN  SHOE LASTS  /  SHOE FORMS
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 20:59:34 Pacific Standard Time
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-Poster: joanj@quiknet.com

I saw this item for sale at eBay and thought that someone on the list might be interested.  This seller has several auctions of shoe lasts, so do look at the seller's list.

For any incipient cordwainers, this may be a way to get some shoe lasts at reasonable prices.  Good luck!

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

Title of item:	4  ANTIQUE  WOODEN  SHOE LASTS  /  SHOE FORMS
Seller:	idtrims@ipa.net
Starts:	12/02/99, 18:46:49 PST
Ends:	12/09/99, 18:46:49 PST
Price:	Starts at $9.99
To bid on the item, go to:	http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=212853272


Item Description:		
	This is a lot of 4 ADULT SIZE antique wooden shoe lasts. The shoes you are bidding on are not the exact ones pictured, but almost identical. Shoes may vary in sizes from 5" to 12". See pictures below for other uses. Buyer pays actual shipping, will accept check or money order. Please see my other auctions for more shoe lasts. 






	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at http://www.ebay.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 23:14:47 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 22:43:52 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> 
> I totally agree. I've seen this in the Renn faire stuff a lot, especially
> with color "rules", like "no pink", 

Now were would someone get the idea that there was no pink?  What does red
fade to?  In the list of colors of Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe I recall lots
of pinks, they just were not called pink.

At my first Estrella War, I was sitting in camp when a person came in and
said that she had just been told that 'brown' was not period.  I said "That
would mean dirt isn't period".

Kathlene
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 21:36:30 -0800
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From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

At 09:43 PM 12/05/1999 , you wrote:
>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>At my first Estrella War, I was sitting in camp when a person came in and
>said that she had just been told that 'brown' was not period.  I said "That
>would mean dirt isn't period".
>
>Kathlene

<snort>  I just fell of the couch!  That is soooo funny!

Svanny
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 21:47:58 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>>Kayta
>
>        There is NO reason that perfectionism and rudeness have to go
>together.  The fact that they so often do is unfortunate as it give us
>perfectionists who couldn't care less what others do a bad name.  
>
>Cheers,
>Ron Carnegie
>rcarnegie@widomaker.com

Striving to achieve perfection doesn't make one a perfectionist.  By
perfectionists I mean those folks so hung up on being perfect that they
can't see any reason not to be.  This makes them unreasonably narrow in
outlook, and they become rude when dealing with other people who have
different goals.  I can't imagine you are what I would call a
perfectionist, regardless of your apparently very high standards. 


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 00:48:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 00:44:25 -0600
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Williamsburg book, sewing machines
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

A couple of things:

I read the Threads article about the Williamsburg exhibit, and also saw the
review of the Fashion in Detail book.  I immediately logged on to
Amazon.com, and ordered both the Fashion book and the Williamsburg
patterns.  The Fashion book was $42, rather than the $60 given in the
review.  I have already received it, and after a quick glance decided I
would be doing a lot of drooling - great pics!  The other one Amazon says
it has reserved and will ship when it comes out in February.

As to machines, we tend to the high end - I have a Janome/New Home Memory
Craft 8000, about 6 years old, and it's had no major repairs - just a tune
up now and then.  It was one of the first embroidery machines, which I
wanted, and it sews very well.  My husband just got his new toy -
Husquvarna (Viking) new Designer-1.  We still have my first machine - a 18
yr old or so Kenmore, which gets used for all the really heavy-duty stuff,
as sometimes I don't want the automatic full-stitch-with-one-tap operation
of the computer machines.  This was one of the "Super High Bar" Kenmores -
the main reason I got a new machine was it was just too darned hard to find
feet to fit it.  It's gone thru thick leather, 8 layers of canvas, plastic
canvas, whatever, no problem.  We also have my mothers (less than 10 yo)
Singer - it's a piece of junk.

Just my .02 worth.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 00:54:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 02:07:36 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 10:43 PM 12/5/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>> 
>> I totally agree. I've seen this in the Renn faire stuff a lot, especially
>> with color "rules", like "no pink", 
>
>Now were would someone get the idea that there was no pink?  What does red
>fade to?  In the list of colors of Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe I recall lots
>of pinks, they just were not called pink.
>
>At my first Estrella War, I was sitting in camp when a person came in and
>said that she had just been told that 'brown' was not period.  I said "That
>would mean dirt isn't period".
>
>Kathlene

        I think you missed the point of the originial post, that these
decisions were made for "artistic" reasons rather than historical, and then
with time it was forgot that they were not historical decisions.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 01:42:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 00:02:36 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: "snark"
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings all,

I'm sorry for jumping into this so late.

Drea had offered:

>> Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

How about:

S-pewing        S-tupid        S-piritual     S-omeone that
N-egativity     N-asty         N-onentity     N-obody
A-bsent         A-nal          A-cquiring     A-cknowledges & is
R-eal           R-etentive     R-ancid        R-arely
K-nowledge      K-illjoy       K-arma         K-ind

Just goofing around,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 01:58:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 00:16:57 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Julie wrote:

> We also made a wooden portable fence that is set up as a "play yard"
> that looks pretty good (and I have references for similar devices
> for most periods.)

Well, they used to have a fence until a recent night with a new moon when
someone leaving their camp around midnight tripped and fell right through
it...Sorry Julie. :-(

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 10:25:59 +0000
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #823
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>>   Someone
told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
it.
<<<
An American friend  now resident in the UK claims to have made a similar retort to a fellow-visitor to (I think) an American Civil War battlefield, who asserted that nails were not available then.

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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 22:08:20 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF4036.67D3AB00
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>Does anyone have experience with Elna?

I swear by my 30 year old Elna.  The best ones are the ones from the 60's -
they have a ful l metal case, and can do everything that a computerised
machine can.  The fancy stitches are done using cams - and one of them even
has a 2 thread overlocking stitch.

I paid $400AUD for mine second hand and re-conditioned - however it was the
top of it's range in the late 60's.

My mother also has an Elna - the same model as mine (the case is cream and
blue) and it has done everything.  She was a professional dressmaker - so it
has had some hard work on lots of different weight fabrics.  It was also
submerged for 5 days under  40 feet of water in 1974 (Brisbane Floods) and
after servicing and cleaning has not had any problems since.

I highly recommend them.  Most Janome retailers also sell Elna.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn


------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF4036.67D3AB00
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN =
class=3D180470411-06121999></SPAN>&gt;Does anyone=20
have experience with Elna?&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN class=3D180470411-06121999>I swear by =
my 30 year=20
old Elna.&nbsp; The best ones are the ones from the 60's - they have a =
ful l=20
metal case, and can do everything that a computerised machine can.&nbsp; =
The=20
fancy stitches are done using cams - and one of them even has a 2 thread =

overlocking stitch.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN=20
class=3D180470411-06121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN class=3D180470411-06121999>I paid =
$400AUD for mine=20
second hand and re-conditioned - however it was the top of it's range in =
the=20
late 60's.&nbsp;</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN=20
class=3D180470411-06121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN class=3D180470411-06121999>My mother =
also has an=20
Elna - the same model as mine (the case is cream and blue) and it has =
done=20
everything.&nbsp; She was a professional dressmaker - so it has had some =
hard=20
work on lots of different weight fabrics.&nbsp; It was also submerged =
for 5 days=20
under&nbsp; 40 feet of water in 1974 (Brisbane Floods) and after =
servicing and=20
cleaning has not had any problems since.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN=20
class=3D180470411-06121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN class=3D180470411-06121999>I highly =
recommend=20
them.&nbsp; Most Janome retailers also sell Elna.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<P><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3D"Arial Narrow">Have a terrific =
Day</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT color=3D#008080 face=3DCalligrapher size=3D4>Megan</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3D"Arial Narrow">Visit my website:&nbsp; =
<A=20
href=3D"http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/"=20
target=3D_blank>http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/</A></FONT> <BR><FONT=20
color=3D#800080 face=3D"Arial Narrow">ICQ #&nbsp; 57164109</FONT> =
<BR><FONT=20
color=3D#800080 face=3D"Arial Narrow">Yahoo Messageing:&nbsp; =
madilayn</FONT>=20
</P></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF4036.67D3AB00--

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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 08:58:42 EST
Subject: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



My son (now 3) always wears a t-shirt with my husband's arms stenciled on it. 
Before you criticize -- he WILL NOT wear garb. Any of the nice period things 
we've made for him come off immediately, if we manage to get them on in the 
first place. And both my husband and I try to be authentic -- we garter our 
hose and wear medieval shoes, we always wear period headcoverings, etc. 

I'm not saying that everyone whose children run around in modern clothes to 
costume events are in the same boat. I just want to remind the list that 
there are often reasons we don't know for things we find inexplicable in 
others. But of course, we all know this. Sometimes we just need a reminder.

Gail Finke
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>



> > carpet-beetle) All sorted now thanks to some nasty stuff 
> > from the local vet, 
> 
> Please tell.  What nasty stuff is this?  In addition to everything
> else, we have wool carpeting here. 
> 
> Kayta

To be honest, I can't remember what it was called.  Someone 
suggested I ask in the vet to see if they could suggest something 
and they sold me a huge spray-can of stuff that also does for fleas 
and other nasties that can effect pets.

Treating the house with it involved spraying everything (starting with 
the rooms farthest from the door and working towards the door) 
before leaving for work in the mornin, then leaving allt he doors and 
windows open for at least 30 minutes when we returned in order to 
get trid of the fumes....  But it worked - killed the little buggers and 
stopped their young-uns from hatching/developing.  It said on the 
can it was effective for up to 7 months.  About 18 months later 
there was a repeat of the problem but much smaller and more 
"localized" (traced to something that was brought into the house). 
We retreated the entire place, just to be sure, and haven't had 
problems with it since....

We're considering setting up a "decontamination unit" in the shed - 
any fabric items we buy will be hung in there and sprayed before 
they're allowed in the house....  either that or we put a sewing 
machine and extension-lead out there so we can zig-zag the edges 
of new fabrics then put them into the machine for a good boil before 
they can contaminate the rest of the collection....<g>



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912060533.WAA06147@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:29:50 -0000
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



 > -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> > 
  > At my first Estrella War, I was sitting in camp when a person came in and
> said that she had just been told that 'brown' was not period.  I said "That
> would mean dirt isn't period".
> 
  Buttocks clenched for the weekend then?
Sorry -
Dave

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References: <19991206050015.90923A9A49@centaur.qa.ebay.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: I 4  ANTIQUE  WOODEN  SHOE LASTS  /  SHOE FORMS
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:27:17 -0000
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: joanj@quiknet.com
 > For any incipient cordwainers, this may be a way to get some shoe lasts at
reasonable prices.  Good luck!
>
 Personally I would date these as immediately post war at a pinch; But a word
of warning to those who want to buy them to make shoes- thet are in a bad
state but you also really need TWO - one for each foot,  unless you are
numerically restricted in the lower limb department.
There a couple of Uk firms that have warehouses full of these in pairs and
sets. I have a room full myself
Just thought I would stick in  .
Dave

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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
 >
> To be honest, I can't remember what it was called.  Someone
> suggested I ask in the vet to see if they could suggest something
> and they sold me a huge spray-can of stuff that also does for fleas
> and other nasties that can effect pets.
Teddy
 Is it Nuvan-Tops ? comes in two very expensive cans one for the house and one
for cats dogs etc. If so  yes it is tedious but effective but when you get cat
number 7  your clothes are in tatters anyway. They also recognise the colour
of the can the next time around. Only do one room at a time though - if you do
the house in one go - you have to put up a tent in the back yard- I know.
Dave

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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:
> 
> My son (now 3) always wears a t-shirt with my husband's arms stenciled
> on it. Before you criticize -- he WILL NOT wear garb. Any of the nice
> period things we've made for him come off immediately, if we manage to
> get them on in the first place. And both my husband and I try to be
> authentic -- we garter our hose and wear medieval shoes, we always
> wear period headcoverings, etc.

Hey, at least you have the arms on there!!  What do you mean by nice
garb?  With the smalls, I've found that just having a t-tunic of a soft
material is best... tights if you can get them on them... I got some
other kids interested in the medieval moccs by wondering out loud if
they were *old* enough to wear them.  The other type of shoes I use are
so close to sneakers that I never had trouble with either of the kids
and boots are made for stomping so they're fairly easy! <grin>  I found
too that it was easier to get the kids into garb that they had helped
pick out (eg picked out the fabric from my stock or the store).  You
might try asking him what he doesn't like about garb.  I know some kids
don't like certain fabric and if he'll wear a t-shirt it may be that
switching to something like a cotton flannel or a soft linen might help.


> I'm not saying that everyone whose children run around in modern
> clothes to costume events are in the same boat. I just want to remind
> the list that there are often reasons we don't know for things we find
> inexplicable in others. But of course, we all know this. Sometimes we
> just need a reminder.

True... but I must say that my first instinct is still to feel jarred by
it... otoh seeing one with arms on it would lessen that tremendously! 
Most of the parents I've talked to who's kids aren't dressed (most of
them aren't making *any* kind of attempt) say "well, kids won't wear
this kind of stuff"... usually while my kids in garb (her in chemise &
irish, him in t-tunic & tights or tight sweatpants or nothing depending
on the season) are standing right beside me.
Kat
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-Poster: psychopixie@playful.com


I just want to say a huge THANK YOU to everyone who so graciously responded with the information about where to purchase Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'ed.  

So many people responded with different sources, and you all were extremely helpful.  I found out the other day that the very afternoon that I forwarded the info to my fiance, he ordered the book from Amazon.com.UK and the book arrived a week or so ago!  I am so excited- I can't wait for Christmas so I can pore through it!

Thanks to all of you, and I hope that you all have a wonderful Holiday Season!


Sigrid Frazier

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
In-Reply-To: <384CA26F.2D29B2E0@imsday.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>

Speaking as one who was not there, what is a skimmer?  I have a pretty
good idea what a babydoll dress looks like, but other than length (well,
sort of) I don't know anything about skimmers.

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Winifred Smith wrote:

> 
> > -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> >
> > >>
> > >Well, I found the ANCIENT photo of me in my skimmer and it BARELY covered my
> > >rearend - the same length you describe for the baby doll.  It had bottoms  -
> > >somewhat skimpy ones  <G>but they were there - to go with it.
> >
> > We called those "sizzlers".
> >
> > Margo

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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:19:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
cc: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,  differences i...
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991203194721.3aff4562@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Well said, Joan-- that's a pet peeve of mine, too.  I'm constantly trying
to beat into the heads of a few of my fellow reenactors that EVERYTHING
I've seen from period (mid-18th c.) was MUCH finer than anything we
moderns could reproduce by hand without lots and lots of practice.  (Ok,
so I could actually do a halfway decent job on some common objects.  But
I've been hand-sewing since I was small, just because I like it.   And I
still couldn't possibly replicate some of the handwork done on objects
I've seen from the DAR costume collection.)  Same goes for other hand-made
objects from the period -- people did things well and expected them to
last, by and large.

Our consumer culture, where furniture is made of fiber-board and discarded
after five years, has simply ruined people's appreciation for how much
work and care went into making things and making sure they LASTED.

Cheers,
Mara


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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 10:57:27 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I just want to remind the list that 
>there are often reasons we don't know for things we find inexplicable in 
>others. But of course, we all know this. Sometimes we just need a reminder.

The people on this list seem to be of the reasonable sort, but THANK YOU
for what might be a reality check in other places/situations.


Kayta
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 11:09:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
In-Reply-To: <151DDF12CC2@mdx-rf-s1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I will ask my vet about what your bug poison might be.  Thank you for your
reply.  I should be able to set up a decontamination unit here.  

My problem is usually with those bargains from the flea market or yard
sale, especially those which can't be washed, like felt hats or feathers or
shoes.  Maybe quarantine would solve the problem for these items.  If any
signs of infestation appeared, the poison could go into the quarantine bag.
 Thrift stores in California usually have chemical decontamination
procedures - that's what causes that 'thrift store' smell things have.
There may even be a law here mandating such procedure.

>> > carpet-beetle) All sorted now thanks to some nasty stuff 
>> > from the local vet, 
>> 
>> Please tell.  What nasty stuff is this?  In addition to everything
>> else, we have wool carpeting here. 
>> 
>> Kayta
>
>To be honest, I can't remember what it was called.  Someone 
>suggested I ask in the vet to see if they could suggest something 
>and they sold me a huge spray-can of stuff that also does for fleas 
>and other nasties that can effect pets.
>
>Treating the house with it involved spraying everything (starting with 
>the rooms farthest from the door and working towards the door) 
>before leaving for work in the mornin, then leaving allt he doors and 
>windows open for at least 30 minutes when we returned in order to 
>get trid of the fumes....  But it worked - killed the little buggers and 
>stopped their young-uns from hatching/developing.  It said on the 
>can it was effective for up to 7 months.  About 18 months later 
>there was a repeat of the problem but much smaller and more 
>"localized" (traced to something that was brought into the house). 
>We retreated the entire place, just to be sure, and haven't had 
>problems with it since....
>
>We're considering setting up a "decontamination unit" in the shed - 
>any fabric items we buy will be hung in there and sprayed before 
>they're allowed in the house....  either that or we put a sewing 
>machine and extension-lead out there so we can zig-zag the edges 
>of new fabrics then put them into the machine for a good boil before 
>they can contaminate the rest of the collection....<g>


Kayta
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 11:25:42 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Most of the parents I've talked to who's kids aren't dressed (most of
>them aren't making *any* kind of attempt) say "well, kids won't wear
>this kind of stuff"... usually while my kids in garb (her in chemise &
>irish, him in t-tunic & tights or tight sweatpants or nothing depending
>on the season) are standing right beside me.

My younger kid bugged me for a new dress for half the run of Faire this
year.  She's 11 and it's her 3rd year as a card-carrying participant.
She's the one who took over the family dress-up box.  Her older sister
couldn't be bothered by all this costume stuff, so I take her to shop at
the retro fashion places in 'The Haight' instead.  Her 'period' is retro
60's-70's.

(The Haight is the 90's term for the Haight-Ashberry district in San
Francisco, made famous by the Hippies in the 60's.  These days it is mostly
cool little restaurants and cappuccino joints, several retro clothing
shops, a few little bookstores, some leftover "head shops", one
full-service Drag Queen outfitter, two really amazing cloth stores, and one
bead store.  My older kid and I spend all day there for her birthday every
year.)


Kayta
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 3 or more colored brocades in Europe before 1600?
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 11:45:43 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

Julie said> One thing to be careful of is popularity and fashion in period,
and just
because it was possible, doesn't mean a particular pattern or color
combination was worn as clothing. By the pictoral evidence I have, I would
say that 3 or more colored brocades in Europe became much more popular
after 1600, though there seemed to be a brief fad in the late 15th c Italy.

For the most part, I agree w/ you.  However, I note that popularity and
price rather go hand in hand.  Not all evidence is pictographic.  Here's a
tasty citation from 1416 describing a 3 fibre brocade.

"Item for the fashioning and fabrics of a black satin pourpoint w/ grandes
assiettes to go with said houppelande (black brocaded with fine silver &
figured with green silk) made of three fine black and white fabrics, made of
silk II escuz.[T1] "  From accounts published in _Les Ducs de Bourgoyne_, L
de Laborde, no. 440;

I dont know what the abbreviation "escuz." is. Unit of money?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:55:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
In-Reply-To: <l03130300b470abeb4b5a@[207.167.66.91]>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Sun, 5 Dec 1999, Julie Adams wrote:
> But still I often bring out other items which are not 100% period, like if
> we are at an SCA event over 3 days, I will bring out my plastic high chair
> for feeding times inside the pavilion, just because it contains the mess of
> my youngest who will otherwise scatter food everywhere...

(grin) But that's what dogs are for -- to eat all those scraps, and lick
baby's face clean afterwards!  Why else would our ancestors have kept lots
and lots of dogs underfoot (and under the table)?

Ok, I'll stop the silliness now...



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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 12:04:19 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



> ----------
> From: 	Ron Carnegie[SMTP:rcarnegie@widomaker.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Sunday, December 05, 1999 6:13 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
> 
> 
> -Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
> 
>         That is what people miss.  It is far more impressive that
> technology
> has given us machines that CAN do work priviously only done by hand.  I
> work
> for the museum mentioned in Maggie's quote, and we get questions doubting
> that something can be done or existed in the period all the time.  Rarely
> is
> it about anything that is even NEW in the 18th century.  (I was informed
> while locked in an original gaol cell last thursday that there was no
> METAL
> in the 18th century!  Not only were we well into the iron age, but the
> iron
> he mentioned dated from the period!!.
> 
My turn to fall off the chair!  What were all those Napoleanic cannons made
out of then, one wonders.  And y'know, swords?  

Give me strength.  That's up there with "Is that a real fire?"

MaggiRos
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Restoration London
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 12:29:18 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I meant to refer to the costume section particularly, of course :)  However,
any other observations will be valuable as well.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	MAGGIE SECARA[SMTP:SECARAM@mainsaver.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 12:25 PM
> To: 	'H-Costume'
> Subject: 	H-COST: Restoration London
> 
> 
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> 
> My dears--
> 
> I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I have
> it
> I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
> "Restoration London" by Liza Picard? 
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To: "'H-Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

My dears--

I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I have it
I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
"Restoration London" by Liza Picard?  It's a book of little details sort of
like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever way it
goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.  Every
now and then I run across something I think sounds "off" but it's not my
period really, so I don't like to trust that first reaction alone.

Anyone?

Cheers!
	MaggiRos


> Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
> and sometimes even 
> 	Maggie Secara
> 
http://ren.dm.net
(recommended ** by britannica.com)
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)

Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll find a
beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.



					Arlys

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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

My then 2 year old son ONCE staunchly refused to change at an event.  He
WOULD NOT consider it on any terms.  Now, this kid had been better dressed
at events than the average peer form day one, so this was not a normal
thing.  So, considering that a happy kid in sweats was MUCH more appealing
than a well dressed unhappy kid, I left the matter.  This also avoided
future problems.
Well.  This kicked up a furor of epic porportions.  Folks were /purportedly/
talking about violations of corpora.  I was, naturally, very offended.
Turns out, no-one other than the individual who mentioned it to me had heard
anything about this.
My point is that we must do our best within reason, and anyone who objects
politely is /welcome/ to make my son a new wardrobe; ill mannered rudesbys
might be invited to bite a rude portion of my anatomy.  I am certainly
devoted to authenticity, but for myself.  I will happily give advice to any
who /ask/.  I consider it the height of bad manners to presume to criticize
unasked.  Besides, as Lady Tudor Glitz was told "telling people something
isn't period isn't period".
I really wish that people would get their heads out of dark brown places and
get lives.  

mm
(great milennial initials, non?)
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 15:19:34 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 13:13:18 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

No one said there WAS no pink.  They said we couldn't WEAR pink.  

Actually, they said no pastels.  One group or another (military? maybe
others, not the Court) said don't wear pink.  This was a theatrical
decision, nothing more, like reserving purple for the queen, even tho the
queen at RPF North and South (California) hasn't worn purple in years.  The
audience percieves that anyone wearing purple is royalty, and they don't
want to confuse things. It's a theatrical decision they (the Faire) were not
required to defend, it being their show. I'm not sure what the ban on pink
(except when legitimately faded from red) was about; possibly just to
maintain the manly manliness of the soldiery.

On the other hand, I have a seal brown "Cranach" dress which skirt is
completely lined in a sort of salmon pink faille and no one ever cared.
Pity it no longer fits.

	MaggiRos



> ----------
> From: 	cynthia j ley[SMTP:cley@juno.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 1:06 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
> 
> 
> -Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
> 
> Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)
> 
> Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll find a
> beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.
> 
> 
> 
> 					Arlys
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Why pay more to get Web access?
> Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
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Subject: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Greetings all,
I just bought 3 bolts of plaid silk taffeta. Each has 12 to 15 yards on it. 
The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
yellow on a white ground. Now I know they can be dipped to kill and change 
the colors to a more acceptable combination. My question is: what to use? I'm 
not a dyer but I use to be dye master for the local Shakespeare Festival 
years ago. All we ever used was Tintex or Rit. All that's available here is 
Rit or Dylon cold dye. In fact I just happen to have about 6 little packages 
of Dylon in "Moon Blue"...a  pale grey/blue. I thought I'd use it to tint a 
length of this orange plait silk. What do ya think? I can follow the 
directions and do enough for a dress. I thought I'd dip some other lengths in 
different tints...mint green or a purple-brown.

Is there another dye I could use to get good results on a 6 or 7 yard length. 
I only have a stove, hot plates, wash tubs, and a washing machine for 
equipment. Should I stick with cold water or just [as I have in the past] use 
hot water & Rit? Rit is fine for stage but I'd hate to make something, sell 
it and then have it fade!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 15:28:08 1999
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

I guess I'm lucky. My daughter, who changes clothing three or four times a
day loves her SCA garb. Frankly I can't get her out of it. I've had to
close my eyes and just take her places because I didn't have time for the
battle of changing into modern clothes. I have fun using her for a barbie
to try out new designs. At first I couldn't get head dresses on her but
lately she's begun showing real interest in wearing mine so I'm planning on
making her several things like padded rolls and such that can be taken off
easily, adjusted and then primped in front of a mirror by an extremely
independent high functioning autistic child.

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Mon, 6 Dec 1999 AlbertCat@AOL.COM wrote:
> The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
> because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
> yellow on a white ground.

	Why dye it? From your description it sounds absolutely perfect for
mid-19th century clothing.  If you don't think you can face looking at the
fabric long enough to make something out of it, you could easily sell the
fabric to people who do that period.  

-Katie

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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

Not only was there pink, the Elizabethans had a number of descriptive
names for it. There's carnation, incarnate, 'devil in the hedge', peach
flower, soppes-in-wine, maiden's blush, Catherine pear, gingerline, and
my personal favorite-lusty gallant!
A snark might argue that paints and pigments have faded thru time ( not
necessarily true) but if they called something 'maiden's blush' I think
that a definite pink tone is being described!

Karen

On Mon, 06 Dec 1999 16:06:57 EST cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com> writes:
> 
> -Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
> 
> Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)
> 
> Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll 
> find a
> beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.
> 
> 
> 
> 					Arlys  
> ___________________________________________________________________ 
> Why pay more to get Web access? Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 17:57:13 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 19:13:30 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

You probably risk harming the crisp finish of the silk, especially if you use 
hot water.  The moon blue might give you an all-over muted look, but it 
depends on how bright that orange is.  The mint green sounds to me like it 
would give you an all-over muddy look.  I opt for not dyeing it, either.

By the way, are you sure it's silk?  It could be acetate, in which case all 
the caveats of dyeing still apply.

Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 18:00:31 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: A dying silk question
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 15:43:55 -0800 
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

I have to agree with Kathleen.  It sounds just lovely at it is.  And I would
be more than will to take a bolt off your hands.

Stephen Bergdahl - madly@2xtreme.net

-----Original Message-----
From: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu [mailto:KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu]
Sent: Monday, December 06, 1999 2:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question



-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Mon, 6 Dec 1999 AlbertCat@AOL.COM wrote:
> The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
> because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
> yellow on a white ground.

	Why dye it? From your description it sounds absolutely perfect for
mid-19th century clothing.  If you don't think you can face looking at the
fabric long enough to make something out of it, you could easily sell the
fabric to people who do that period.  

-Katie

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 18:12:14 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 18:30:06 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

Well, my two youngest sons (13 & 8) have been wearing great kilts for 2
years now. Even though they get sorta "messed up" just by being boys, they
still love to put them on. We've gotten real good at it and they stay
pretty secure for most of the day now. I'm sure they're not authentic, but
you can't beat the extra large safety pins (of-course, we put them where
they can't be seen). 

Amanda


----------
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
> Date: Monday, December 06, 1999 1:25 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> 
> >Most of the parents I've talked to who's kids aren't dressed (most of
> >them aren't making *any* kind of attempt) say "well, kids won't wear
> >this kind of stuff"... usually while my kids in garb (her in chemise &
> >irish, him in t-tunic & tights or tight sweatpants or nothing depending
> >on the season) are standing right beside me.
> 
> My younger kid bugged me for a new dress for half the run of Faire this
> year.  She's 11 and it's her 3rd year as a card-carrying participant.
> She's the one who took over the family dress-up box.  Her older sister
> couldn't be bothered by all this costume stuff, so I take her to shop at
> the retro fashion places in 'The Haight' instead.  Her 'period' is retro
> 60's-70's.
> 
> (The Haight is the 90's term for the Haight-Ashberry district in San
> Francisco, made famous by the Hippies in the 60's.  These days it is
mostly
> cool little restaurants and cappuccino joints, several retro clothing
> shops, a few little bookstores, some leftover "head shops", one
> full-service Drag Queen outfitter, two really amazing cloth stores, and
one
> bead store.  My older kid and I spend all day there for her birthday
every
> year.)
> 
> 
> Kayta
>      ////.\\\
>     ////-@@\\\
>    ((((   7 (((
>      |   -- ))))
>      * )   (((((
>   /----\   /---\
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 19:11:27 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Slow out there or is something wrong?
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:04:52 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> I am not over informed about holidays in the colonies though . I was led
to
> believe that the Oztraleans had Christmas in the Summer , however a
friend
> visitted last June and saw no signs whatsoever.

Yes, we do it in summer and a wonderful time is had with all that cooked
meat, cooked vegetables, cooked puddings and heavy fruit cakes followed
with hot custard dishes, and all the other trimmings you may expect at
Christmas - and all this in 100 degrees Farenhiet. Hmmm!

Oh, there is one concession to the weather, cards featuring Father
Christmas in his red hat and board shorts out surfing.

> The quietness from the UK is due to the national baited breath of despair
as
> it seems that our Queen Mother is likely to reach 100 long before any of
our
> batsmen.

Hell, the Queen Mother will hit the double century before the batsmen make
100.

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 19:12:56 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bees
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:14:07 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> << 300 gold bees on the Merovignian coronation robe  >>
> 
> Could you please be so kind as to post the reference for this
information?  I 
> would appreciate it very much.  Thanks.

Will do (as soon as I can damned well find it in my mess of books!).

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 19:15:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 20:15:24 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I like my Elna 9000.  It's a lot less money than the Bernina and other top 
end brands, but does the same stuff.  It feels more delicate than my old 40's 
vintage Singer, but I like the ease with which I can do so many stitches, 
buttonholes, darning, overlock, embroidery.  Feature for feature comparison 
with Bernina, it does the same, for about 40 less cost, when I purchased it 
about 4 years ago.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 19:37:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 20:50:02 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: (no subject)
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Please do make a matching Elizabethan for her doll!  

When my niece, age 5, asked me for a Barbie many years ago, I threw away the 
store-bought clothes and created a decent wardrobe for her -- business suit, 
sportwear skirts, slacks, and tops, a pretty evening gown, a bridal dress 
made out of an old silk blouse--so she didn't look like a hooker.  Pardon me, 
but 16 years ago, it was inconceivable to me that parents would buy her for 
their girls.  I loved the role of  indulgent aunt, but was only willing to go 
so far!  The whole wardrobe, including the little wire hangers I made, is 
still intact, quite the complement.

Old fuddy duddy here . . .  .

Hope
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 19:08:34 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
In-Reply-To: <199912070026.SAA19342@anarchy.io.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 06:30 PM 12/06/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
>
>Well, my two youngest sons (13 & 8) have been wearing great kilts for 2
>years now. Even though they get sorta "messed up" just by being boys, they
>still love to put them on. We've gotten real good at it and they stay
>pretty secure for most of the day now. I'm sure they're not authentic, but
>you can't beat the extra large safety pins (of-course, we put them where
>they can't be seen). 
>
>Amanda
>
            But 'safety pins', or pins similar, have been in use since
Roman times, at the least...Carol, remembering that from my Latin class days...
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 20:55:31 1999
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From: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <2.2.16.19991204145823.4157b7ea@mail2.quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Q E's Wardrobe Unlock'd
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 21:12:48 -0600
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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

How did you ever get it ordered ?  All I have ever been able to get from
them is that it is not in their catelog yet they do give a price and state
that it is a special order.  Is there some secret to doing their special
orders ?
Diane
----- Original Message -----
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 1999 4:58 PM
Subject: H-COST: Q E's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> -Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>
> Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd *is* available through Amazon.co.uk!!
My
> copy is in the mail... I ordered it on 30 Oct and it was shipped on 26 Nov
> (the day my credit card was charged) via Royal Mail. Price, with air mail
> shipping from the UK, was GBP79.95, which translated to US$129.81, a
bargain
> in my book. Now all I need to do is wait until it arrives...
>
> Joan Jurancich
> Sacramento, CA
> joanj@quiknet.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 21:48:43 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 05:08:17 +0100
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


Congratulations on the book!

> I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I have it
> I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
> "Restoration London" by Liza Picard?

It is just absolutely fantastic!!! One of the ever best books I have 
seen so far on the late 17th century, admittedly, the 1660s. 
Wonderful, lovely, my bible. Picard isn't a historian, but a lawyer, 
and thus all the wonderful 'evidence' is there. Everyday life from 
brushing one's teeth to monthly hygiene over clothes to statsitics and 
god knows what else.

  It's a book of little details sort of
> like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever way it
> goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.  Every

and of course John Evelyn as well, and Hutchinson.

> now and then I run across something I think sounds "off" but it's not my
> period really, so I don't like to trust that first reaction alone.

Do trust this book. *nods* What might sound "off" to you is not off, 
but the truth. I have a very large and tall bookshelf from the floor to 
the ceiling with almost exclusively books on the late 17th century 
Baroque period, I live and breathe for the French and English 
Baroque ;-), and Picard has researched her book extremely well. 
Plus she almost always gives the source for her facts, which means 
no arguing with her, because it was written down by 
contemporaries. *S* It's my period, really, and I highly recommend 
the book to everyone interested in the period. Around 8 pounds 
sterling.
Nicole

************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 21:48:37 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 05:07:31 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


> > Could you please be so kind as to post the reference for this
> information?  I 
> > would appreciate it very much.  Thanks.

I don't know about 'coronation robes' but in King Childerich's grave 
(died 481), which was a huge grave arrangement, with hill and 
everything and horse graves arranged around his grave chamber, 
there were found these gold bees. The grave was opened in the 18th 
century, and unfortunately most of the gold artefacts (there were 
innumerable ones) were stolen from the archaeologists and molten 
down. Thus only (fortunately very detailed and accurate) coloured 
engravings of all the finds remain. The bees must have been 
beautiful. But Childerich was dressed in late Roman-Germanic dress 
and weapons, a combination.
An extensive discussion of the grave and the finds, as well as the 
18th century engravings of the bees can be found in the two volume 
German exhibition catalogue 'the Franks' from a touring large 
exhibition in the 90s.

Nicole  

************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 22:41:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 00:00:35 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I have to agree with Kathleen.  It sounds just lovely at it is.  And I would
>be more than will to take a bolt off your hands.

Orange is my favorite colour!  I would buy a bolt from you!.

Cheers,
Danielle
dnunn@interlog.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 22:43:26 1999
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From: "Laurie L. Kittle" <gunstonian@mindspring.com>
Subject: H-COST: Nails -- An Urban Legend
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-Poster: "Laurie L. Kittle" <gunstonian@mindspring.com>

At 10:25 AM 12/6/99 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
>>>>   Someone
>told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
>used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
>was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
>history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
>They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
>it.
><<<
>An American friend  now resident in the UK claims to have made a similar
retort to a fellow-visitor to (I think) an American Civil War battlefield,
who asserted that nails were not available then.

I heard this one, too. Except it was an interpreter at Valley Forge Historical
Park and he got fired for this response to an incredulous tourist.

Laurie Kittle
Alexandria, VA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 22:43:27 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Pink
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 22:12:31 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

When I first started playing with the SCA I was told "No Pink!.  So this
isn't just coming from a Ren Faire angle.  Or maybe it is and it has
filtered into the SCA.

And I have a personal theory.  No historical precedent, no documentation,
just my own fevered imagination.  

One summer night about 9:00 PM, I was driving back to Boise from an event
in Jerome, Idaho.  That means I would be traveling west into the sunset. 
As I am driving along, the sun is just slipping out from below the clouds
of a small thunderstorm to behind the horizon, off to the left is a curtain
of rain, with lightning striking in the center.  The curtain of rain is
neon/dayglow pink, the clouds are white, black and the sky behind them is
every shade of vibrant pink and orange that one could imagine.  

Right then and there I decided, that if a color occurred in nature, then
man would try and reproduce it.  And there it was, no doubt about it,
neon/dayglow pink and orange.  So, unless it is a color not found in
nature, (I can't think of any myself)  I will always be skeptical when
someone tells me that a color isn't period.  Admittedly the color may not
be appropriate for certain times and places, but that doesn't mean it
didn't exist.  Because I am sure that somewhere, sometime in the past,
others saw the same colors I did and admired them enough to recreate them.

Kathlene

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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 21:21:57 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Marquis de Kipar wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
> 
> Congratulations on the book!
> 
> > I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I have it
> > I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
> > "Restoration London" by Liza Picard?
> 
> It is just absolutely fantastic!!! One of the ever best books I have
> seen so far on the late 17th century, admittedly, the 1660s.

I agree.  I'd read a review of it in the LA times about 2 years ago but
couldn't get the book here in the states, so when I went to England last
year in May, I bought it there and read it in the week we were on a tour
of north England and Scotland.  I thought it was terrific.

> Wonderful, lovely, my bible. Picard isn't a historian, but a lawyer,
> and thus all the wonderful 'evidence' is there. Everyday life from
> brushing one's teeth to monthly hygiene over clothes to statsitics and
> god knows what else.
> 
>   It's a book of little details sort of
> > like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever way it
> > goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.  Every

True, but what's the objection?  Pepys *did* live in the period - if he
doesn't know what he's talking about who does?  And Picard's research
was all based on original sources from what I understand from the review
I read.  Hardly any of it, if any, was based on secondary accounts.

It was a fascinating read.

Carolyn
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: "Merouda" <keltia@serv.net>, "Steps" <steps@antir.sca.org>,
        "The Reeds" <aquaterra-list@eskimo.com>,
        "Mistress Isolde" <isoldex@yahoo.com>,
        "Julian and Arianne" <jerand@gte.net>,
        "Laurellen" <ruffbugg@nwlink.com>,
        "Andrew and Fiamma" <ABertino@aol.com>, <fiammetta@aol.com>,
        "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ursalmas Fashion Show
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 21:29:46 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF4031.04BAF640
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Greetings one and all!

The Aquaterra Costumers Guild invites one and all to display their =
wonderful clothing in the Known World Fashion Show that will be occuring =
during Ursalmas.

For those not in the in the SCA, Ursalmas is an annual event that occurs =
indoors at the Everegreen Fairgrounds, in Monroe Washington during the =
last weekend (Friday - Sunday) of January, which is the 28th, 29th, =
30th.  (The Barony of Aquaterra in in the Kingdom of An Tir, for those =
in other Kingdoms)

The Known World Fashion Show is open to any and all people to wear and =
show their garb (within the SCA timeframe of 600 - 1650 *50 years either =
way - depending on who you talk to*)  but do not like to do =
competitions.  This is just for fun! =20

The link below provides the web site for the event and the form to =
complete online (or print out and snail mail to me).

http://www.aquaterra.antir.sca.org/ursulmas/index.html

Please come and enjoy the festivities!  I have been commissioned by the =
Aquaterra Guildmistress, HL Fiamma the Unquenchable, to bring my =
costuming library (small one *ha*) for consultation.  If you, or someone =
you know, wants to do some research, please let me know and I'll see if =
I can either find or bring a book to assist.  I will be sitting at the =
Consulting table most (and Merouda some of the time) of the event, and =
hope to meet many of the wonderful people I have "met" online! =20

Please feel free to forward this information to anyone who would be =
interested or any list that would be appropriate.

Gia/Giacinta
costuming nut


------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF4031.04BAF640
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Greetings one and all!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The Aquaterra Costumers Guild invites one and all to display their=20
wonderful clothing in the Known World Fashion Show that will be occuring =
during=20
Ursalmas.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>For those not in the in the SCA, Ursalmas is an annual event that =
occurs=20
indoors at the Everegreen Fairgrounds, in Monroe Washington during the =
last=20
weekend (Friday - Sunday) of January, which is the 28th, 29th, =
30th.&nbsp; (The=20
Barony of Aquaterra in in the Kingdom of An Tir, for those in other=20
Kingdoms)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The Known World Fashion Show is open to any and all people to wear =
and show=20
their garb (within the SCA timeframe of 600 - 1650 *50 years either way =
-=20
depending on who you talk to*)&nbsp; but do not like to do =
competitions.&nbsp;=20
This is just for fun!&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The link below provides the web site for the event and the form to =
complete=20
online (or print out and snail mail to me).</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://www.aquaterra.antir.sca.org/ursulmas/index.html">http://ww=
w.aquaterra.antir.sca.org/ursulmas/index.html</A></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Please come and enjoy the festivities!&nbsp; =
I have=20
been commissioned by the Aquaterra Guildmistress, HL Fiamma the =
Unquenchable, to=20
bring my costuming library (small one *ha*) for consultation.&nbsp; If =
you, or=20
someone you know, wants to do some research, please let me know and I'll =
see if=20
I can either find or bring a book to assist.&nbsp; I will be sitting at =
the=20
Consulting table most (and Merouda some of the time) of the event, and =
hope to=20
meet many of the wonderful people I have &quot;met&quot; online!&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Please feel free to forward this information =
to anyone=20
who would be interested or any list that would be =
appropriate.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV>
<DIV>costuming nut</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF4031.04BAF640--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 23:18:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 00:34:56 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: bees
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< > << 300 gold bees on the Merovignian coronation robe  >>
 > 
 > Could you please be so kind as to post the reference for this
 information?  I 
 > would appreciate it very much.  Thanks.
 
<< Will do (as soon as I can damned well find it in my mess of books!). >>

Chris, you mentioned that you thought there was a Merovingian statue in 
Boucher that showed this.  However, I've just been through Boucher twice and 
couldn't find it.  I'll look forward to being pointed in the right direction, 
when you have time, of course.  Thanks.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 23:20:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 00:39:04 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Thanks for all the info, Nicole.  Do you happen to have the full citation for 
this 2-volume exhibition catalogue?  Sometimes interlibrary loan can surprise 
me!  Thanks.

<< An extensive discussion of the grave and the finds, as well as the 
 18th century engravings of the bees can be found in the two volume 
 German exhibition catalogue 'the Franks' from a touring large 
 exhibition in the 90s.
  >>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 23:22:22 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 21:40:42 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kim Baird wrote:
> 
> Some comments on the sewing machine dilemma, from one who has owned 8
> different machines, and 3 sergers:
> 
> Don't buy any Singer that is not black cast iron

I think I'd qualify that - don't buy any Singer machine made before
1965.  A lot of the 40s, 50s and 60s models came in green, pink, or tan
(featherweights came in all 3 I think, as well as white).

And I doubt the featherweight reproduction scheduled for the end of the
year will be worth the money.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 23:56:11 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Julie wrote:
>
>> We also made a wooden portable fence that is set up as a "play yard"
>> that looks pretty good (and I have references for similar devices
>> for most periods.)
>
>Well, they used to have a fence until a recent night with a new moon when
>someone leaving their camp around midnight tripped and fell right through
>it...Sorry Julie. :-(
>
>Dietmar

Hey, you only took out one panel! I was meaning to ask if you were
ok...especially since you hadn't posted much.  There were some big
splinters there...  Well, at least bloody costumes would still be period...

Julie


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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
>
>Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)
>
>Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll find a
>beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.
>
Somewhere back in the Mists of Time, the Living History Centre (California
Renn Faires) decided no pastels based on theatrical? reasons. It eventually
was translated to "pink is not period" by the masses. Since then the myth
has propagated that pink is not period. I've heard this from SCA folks and
others ad nauseum. Its pretty obvious that pink is period, especially when
I seen both pink and red clothing in the same painting... and I LOVE the
pink and white landknechts... not that I could ever convince my hubby to
wear them..

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 00:02:45 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 07:21:31 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


> Thanks for all the info, Nicole.  Do you happen to have the full citation for 
> this 2-volume exhibition catalogue?  Sometimes interlibrary loan can surprise 
> me!  Thanks.

*groans* i just had a quick look at the copies...
i didn't copy the title page obviously *thwaps herself* but my 
boyfriend has the books (yes i know, it's funny, he's english, has 
those books, i'm german, can read them but don't have them *L*) 
he's on this list so hopefully he'll read this post.
anyway, the title was "Wegbereiter Europas. Die Franken" but I 
can't remember more... I  have to check if I can find the reference..
ah! i just found it at amazon.de *S*
http://www.amazon.de/exec/obidos/ASIN/3805318138/qid=94454737
9/sr=1-33/028-3012395-4071410
"Die Franken. Wegbereiter Europas. Vor 1500 Jahren: König 
Chlodwig und seine Erben."  (1996) Mainz: v. Zabern.  ISBN: 
3805318138
165 DM (I have no idea if you can get them at amazon.com, nor 
how much it is, just in case you can't get them via inter libarary loan)
I cross my fingers!
Nicole
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 00:03:44 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 01:22:43 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/07/1999 12:01:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
dnunn@interlog.com writes:

<< Orange is my favorite colour!  I would buy a bolt from you!.
  >>
E-mail me. but.....don't expect $10 a bolt!
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Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/06/1999 7:22:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us writes:

<< 
 I have to agree with Kathleen.  It sounds just lovely at it is.  And I would
 be more than will to take a bolt off your hands.
  >>

No no no...it screams Halloween. Did I mention it has black too? There is 
enough yellow & white in it to turn it a brown, green & pale blue plaid. Mint 
would turn it and different brown, different green and mint plaid. A brown 
will yield a plaid of rich browns. I plan to do samples before dunking the 
entire bolt. It is silk.
I have, for Interview with the Vampire, dyed in hot water & tan Rit a piece 
of the same stuff in red white & blue, which tuned out very nice but not as 
stiff as before dying. Some spray starch and an industrial iron made it look 
very nice. That's why I want to try cold water. Loosing some body is worth 
toning down the color to me.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 00:27:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 01:51:42 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: New book
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


I don't read Italian, but someone out there may be interested in this new
book:

Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, Guardaroba medievale:  vesti e societa dal
13. al 16. secolo (Bologna:  Il mulino, 1999).

I know nothing about this other than the rather promising title. (I have a
librarian friend who lets me know about any medieval costume publications
he happens to spot.) 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 00:41:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 01:58:28 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses (and skimmers/sizzlers)
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

Dear Emma - skimmers came in a number of designs.  The one I had (which I 
remember so vividly because my parents were LIVID that I made it and I still 
have  the tacky commemorative photograph of wearing it without permission at 
school) had a v neck, tiny half circle slightly gathered cap sleeves and 
princess lines.  The princess lines flared deeply at the hip and just beyond 
(it only went just beyond).  The bottoms were cut like slightly over large 
undies and showed whenever you moved.  I made it out of a slinky synthetic 
knit.  


Pamela D.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 01:28:10 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912070502.WAA13263@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

> As I am driving along, the sun is just slipping out from below the clouds
> of a small thunderstorm to behind the horizon, off to the left is a
curtain
> of rain, with lightning striking in the center.  The curtain of rain is
> neon/dayglow pink, the clouds are white, black and the sky behind them is
> every shade of vibrant pink and orange that one could imagine.
  Wow. That sounds beautiful!

>
> Right then and there I decided, that if a color occurred in nature, then
> man would try and reproduce it.  And there it was, no doubt about it,
> neon/dayglow pink and orange.  So, unless it is a color not found in
> nature, (I can't think of any myself)  I will always be skeptical when
> someone tells me that a color isn't period.
   I agree.  When I first started participating in Renaissance Faires, I was
told that the rule of thumb was -- if you can figure out how to get a color
with nature, then you can use it. The point is, if you research and can find
plants, bark, berries, etc. to get a certain color, chances are high that
they did too.

Michelle



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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Dave

> - -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>  Is it Nuvan-Tops ? comes in two very expensive cans one for the
> house and one for cats dogs etc. 

No.  I can't remember the name but it was one word.  As I recall it 
sounded vaguely "dynamic"... if that makes any sense.

The strange thing is that another friend (a vet) told me later that the 
stuff *doesn't* work on moth or carpet beetle, other than killing off 
the existing ones (and anything else that breathes in too much of 
it).  All I can say is that it worked on the ones we had - killed the 
existing ones and stopped the young ones from developing.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  H-COST: A dying silk question
In-reply-to: <199912062139.OAA02658@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> - -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> Greetings all,
> I just bought 3 bolts of plaid silk taffeta. Each has 12 to 15
> yards on it. The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a
> bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean
> electric orange....and black and yellow on a white ground. 

Wow!  that sounds like *my* sort of fabric!



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 10:11:38 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Pink!
In-reply-to: <199912062139.OAA02658@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> - -Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
> 
> Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)
> 
> Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll find
> a beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.
>
>      Arlys

Personally, I'd question the use of the word "beautiful" to describe 
pink....<g>  

but then, unless it's a really *vivid* pink (used for effect!), I'm bound 
to hate it.  Pink has one  *slight* saving grace - it's marginally nicer 
than grey (which isn't saying much)





 


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 10:23:07 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  H-COST: A dying silk question
In-reply-to: <199912070459.VAA12279@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>



> >I have to agree with Kathleen.  It sounds just lovely at it is.  And
> >I would be more than will to take a bolt off your hands.
> 
> Orange is my favorite colour!  I would buy a bolt from you!.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle

I might have known Danielle would jump in here!

Hi Danielle!

I just tried out a new shade of orange dye - managed to get cheap 
cotton lining dyed *just* the right colour to line a gown of the 
*softest* orange velvet I've ever handled - unfortunately, it's not for 
me!


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 05:36:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 11:58:01 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Admittedly the color may not
>be appropriate for certain times and places, but that doesn't mean it
>didn't exist.  Because I am sure that somewhere, sometime in the past,
>others saw the same colors I did and admired them enough to recreate them.

How about 'admired them enough to try to recreate them'?  I will take the
word of a dyer on the possibility/probability of those colours, but I won't
believe neon colours are possible with natural dyestuff till then.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 05:36:30 1999
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I used to own a book of Hungarian art, one photo in which showed a
'spangled' garment from before 1400 (I think).  Anyway, said garment had
lots of little flat metal bits sewn onto it, many in recognizable shapes.
It looked a lot like a charm bracelet, but the bits were gold.  I would
believe it if I were told all these bees were sew-ons from a garment.  I
would also believe washer-like things which were nailed onto something
solid, like a saddle frame.

>I don't know about 'coronation robes' but in King Childerich's grave 
>(died 481), which was a huge grave arrangement, with hill and 
>everything and horse graves arranged around his grave chamber, 
>there were found these gold bees. The grave was opened in the 18th 
>century, and unfortunately most of the gold artefacts (there were 
>innumerable ones) were stolen from the archaeologists and molten 
>down. Thus only (fortunately very detailed and accurate) coloured 
>engravings of all the finds remain. The bees must have been 
>beautiful. But Childerich was dressed in late Roman-Germanic dress 
>and weapons, a combination.
>An extensive discussion of the grave and the finds, as well as the 
>18th century engravings of the bees can be found in the two volume 
>German exhibition catalogue 'the Franks' from a touring large 
>exhibition in the 90s.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 05:47:57 1999
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From: "TC Carstensen" <eccentri@sprynet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.1.32.19991207000035.0094f7c0@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: Orange Cloth (Was: A dying silk question)
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 07:09:33 -0500
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-Poster: "TC Carstensen" <eccentri@sprynet.com>

Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> Orange is my favorite colour!

Oh, then you need to check out the pumpkin colored unsheared corduroy that
Phoenix Textiles has for sale for $3 a yard.   I already bought some in
another color and was so delighted with it  that I couldn't resist placing
another order for the pumpkin, too.   It is the softest stuff!

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/uncor2.html

BTW, orders for $30 or more through Wednesday Dec. 9 get  free shipping,
just in case you weren't tempted enough to order from them already.  I love
Phoenix Textiles.  I always get such great deals from them.


TC Carstensen, no affiliation, just a very satisfied customer  :)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 07:12:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 08:30:41 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: carnation
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I love all those color names too, but they can be misleading. Carnation was, 
I believe, a sort of dried blood color, not a pink. Boy, I wish the Color 
Marketing Group and the other so-called color "forecasters" would make up 
names like that today!

Gail Finke

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

My database tells me that this book IS now available in the US (St Martin's Press, ISBN 0312186592)

I haven't seen it myself, but it definitely sounds like one to look out for!

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> How about 'admired them enough to try to recreate them'?  I will take
> the word of a dyer on the possibility/probability of those colours,
> but I won't believe neon colours are possible with natural dyestuff
> till then.

I haven't done natural dying since Girl Scout camp but I seem to recall
making something that came out pretty neon... and the ancient Bruce
tartan *screams* with neon orange & green.

Kat
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #831, Kid's SCA clothing
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

"Marsha S. McLean" wrote:
> 
<snip>
> My point is that we must do our best within reason, and anyone who
> objects politely is /welcome/ to make my son a new wardrobe; ill
> mannered rudesbys might be invited to bite a rude portion of my
> anatomy.  I am certainly devoted to authenticity, but for myself.  I
> will happily give advice to any who /ask/.  I consider it the height
> of bad manners to presume to criticize unasked.  Besides, as Lady
> Tudor Glitz was told "telling people something isn't period isn't
> period".<snip>

I agree... while it may really jar me to see children in mundanes... I
would NEVER tell the parents or child that it was bad... I do sometimes
ask why as nicely as I can because there have been times when I've run
across someone who wasn't wearing something because their only piece of
garb had been damaged or the child's garb wasn't finished etc. and I've
been able to provide/find something suitable.  Certainly if a parent
says to me that they've tried and can't get the child to wear garb...
while I might make suggestions on how to change this I will sympathize
and think nothing bad about them... it's the ones who just blithely say,
"oh, well, he's just a kid... they *won't* wear garb" without having
even bothered to try that annoy me... and even then I'll just nod
sagaciously and go on my way.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 08:23:20 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

When a batch of natural dyestuffs failed to arrive for a local class I was 
teaching--we played with the herbs in my garden and the spices in my rack. 
When the contents of my spice rack produced a most wonderous shade of neon 
fuschia pink , I too, was convinced that earlier folks must have enjoyed it, 
too!! 
cheers,
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 08:26:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 08:44:25 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

Don't you mean AFTER 1965?

At 09:40 PM 12/06/1999 -0800, you wrote:

>-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>I think I'd qualify that - don't buy any Singer machine made before
>1965.  A lot of the 40s, 50s and 60s models came in green, pink, or tan
>(featherweights came in all 3 I think, as well as white).

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 08:52:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 10:11:27 -0500 (EST)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

About a year ago, someone on the list posted a message regarding the
corset worn by Queen Elizabeth's effigy--apparantly, Arnold had examinied
it and pronounced it contemporary with QE's death.

Does anyone have a copy of this message, or can the original poster
contact me?  I made a replica of this corset based on the photo in the
Westminster Effigies book, but am now trying to document it as an early 
17th century item, and can't find any info on it.

Many thanks,

Drea

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Nails -- An Urban Legend
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> >>>>   Someone
> >told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
> >used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
> >was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
> >history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
> >They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
> >it.
> ><<<
> >An American friend  now resident in the UK claims to have made a similar
> retort to a fellow-visitor to (I think) an American Civil War battlefield,
> who asserted that nails were not available then.
> 
> I heard this one, too. Except it was an interpreter at Valley Forge Historical
> Park and he got fired for this response to an incredulous tourist.

Perhaps people are getting confused about joining items. In many 
periods of history nails were used only for rough work. They are a 
rather labor intensive item as they need to be drawn and forged. 
Screws were definitely not used. However, wooden pegs were used for 
finer work like nice boxes and floors. Joints (like dovetail joints) 
were often used as well. Nails have their place but many floors 
especially were pegged together with doweling. Doweling is 
comparatively fast to make and holds well because it will generally 
swell just slightly after being put in (where nails progressively 
work looser with time.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> When a batch of natural dyestuffs failed to arrive for a local class I was 
> teaching--we played with the herbs in my garden and the spices in my rack. 
> When the contents of my spice rack produced a most wonderous shade of neon 
> fuschia pink , I too, was convinced that earlier folks must have enjoyed it, 
> too!! 

Folks may have enjoyed it at times. However, it was not as popular 
amongst the people who bought cloth as one might think. Yes, they did 
have it (and peach) but it is our *modern* aesthetics which says they 
would like it if we do. They had different attitudes about this.

That's why the old saw "if they could have had it they would have 
used it" doesn't work when studying history. There are a lot of 
things they could have done and didn't because they didn't like it. 
It wasn't their style. Pink is one of those things which could be 
done and was done some, but wasn't as popular as it is now.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 09:32:05 1999
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From: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Sewing machines and buying
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-Poster: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>

Just in case you haven't gotten enough replies, here are my machines.

I have an Elna from the early 80's ($400.00)- It clothed my children and
has been a work horse with very little maintenance.(no plastic interior
parts)
A Singer "Jeans Machine" from the 90's ($200.00 range)- It works well
but its stitch speed could be faster, and I have continual trouble with
the thread not seating properly when threaded (have to constantly make
sure it is snug in the thread tension wheel) And I am tking it too the
repair person to frequently.
A Viking 1000 from the 93/4 ($1200.00 range)- My main machine right now,
has been put through extensive abuse doing Ren clothes for 6 years now,
no real maintenance.  
A Singer Industrial Needle Feed from the 60's (used $500.00)- FAST, fast
fast... straight stitch only, and sounds like a jet plane when you start
it up.  Use this for long runs of straight seams.  Love it for
velvet/satin
A Babylock Serger from 94 ($800.00 range)- Has always performed well,
although it needs to be adjusted for each fabric change.
A Singer "Featherweight" from 1929 (Swapped costume for this machine)-
Incredible straight stitch, it goes forward and backwards, used for
incredibly sheer fabric such as silk gauze and for topstitching, the
feed dog plate has only a small hole about the size of a "pencil lead"
so sheer fabrics do not get pulled into the feed dog area. Been told it
is a favorite of quilters.

Remember one thing... When you do go to buy a machine, take your own bag
of scraps to sew on.  Make sure you take fabric that you frequently
sew.  Brocades, denims, velvets.. All react quite differently than those
small scraps of cottons and polyester they usually use at the demo
table.
The main feature you should consider looking for is a walking foot
machine, or one that has a walking foot option.  Or if you can find it,
a needle feed machine.  (Needle moves with the fabric as it sews)...
With either of these you will not have near the problem with the lower
fabric creeping through faster than the upper fabric.  And of course any
of the other bells and whistles..

Me.. I am looking for an embroidery machine that does not cost a fortune
and lets me use my own designs.  I have no desire or need to get a
mchine that offers a 1000 designs some one else did.  So why should I
have to pay for them.  Anyone have any suggestions?
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Nicole, thanks so very much for the citation.  I'll put in an ILL request 
today.
Nancy
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.122f1691.257e012c@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:36:28 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> No no no...it screams Halloween. Did I mention it has black too? There is
> enough yellow & white in it to turn it a brown, green & pale blue plaid.
Mint
> would turn it and different brown, different green and mint plaid. A brown
> will yield a plaid of rich browns. I plan to do samples before dunking the
> entire bolt. It is silk.

If you wouldn't mind posting them somewhere, I'd like to see the before and
afters of your samples.

Thanks,
Heather

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 10:53:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:08:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
In-Reply-To: <v03110702b471df8477ee@[166.70.12.200]>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

When I was a kid, all I wanted to wear were long dresses... this was the
early 70s, and mom had to make them all by hand.  Well, two dresses,
total, I think, but she couldn't get me to wear anything else.  I still
love floor-length skirts.  And we weren't even cognizant of the SCA... I
think I just imprinted on the long gowns in the fairy-tale books!

Mara


On Mon, 6 Dec 1999, Karalee Larsen Pugmire wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
> 
> I guess I'm lucky. My daughter, who changes clothing three or four times a
> day loves her SCA garb. Frankly I can't get her out of it. I've had to
> close my eyes and just take her places because I didn't have time for the
> battle of changing into modern clothes. I have fun using her for a barbie
> to try out new designs. At first I couldn't get head dresses on her but
> lately she's begun showing real interest in wearing mine so I'm planning on
> making her several things like padded rolls and such that can be taken off
> easily, adjusted and then primped in front of a mirror by an extremely
> independent high functioning autistic child.
> 
> Francesca da Bari
> Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
> Francesca.da.Bari
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com

In a message dated 12/6/99 4:36:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< 
 -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
 
 Greetings all,
 I just bought 3 bolts of plaid silk taffeta. Each has 12 to 15 yards on it. 
 The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
 because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
 yellow on a white ground. Now I know they can be dipped to kill and change 
 the colors to a more acceptable combination. My question is: what to use? 
I'm 
 not a dyer but I use to be dye master for the local Shakespeare Festival 
 years ago. All we ever used was Tintex or Rit. All that's available here is 
 Rit or Dylon cold dye. In fact I just happen to have about 6 little packages 
 of Dylon in "Moon Blue"...a  pale grey/blue. I thought I'd use it to tint a 
 length of this orange plait silk. What do ya think? I can follow the 
 directions and do enough for a dress. I thought I'd dip some other lengths 
in 
 different tints...mint green or a purple-brown.
 
 Is there another dye I could use to get good results on a 6 or 7 yard 
length. 
 I only have a stove, hot plates, wash tubs, and a washing machine for 
 equipment. Should I stick with cold water or just [as I have in the past] 
use 
 hot water & Rit? Rit is fine for stage but I'd hate to make something, sell 
 it and then have it fade!
  __________________ >>

Finally, a question that I can answer!  I have been dying silk for that last 
5 years or so for costuming purposes.  I can say that Rit really is not a 
good choice as it never seems to stop bleeding.

You need a good acid dye.  Why not try Dharma Trading Co.  
http://www.dharmatrading.com/  I have successfully dyed 10 yard lengths with 
little to no streaks in it in the washing machine. Using the recommended oil 
helps keep the color even.

Kristi Kelly
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


Hi Albertcat,

Hmm.... cold water dye bath.... a beige overdye? Might calm down
the screaming orange nicely. Or how about a tea dye (depending on
how fast you want the color to be)

Let us know what happens-- I'm dying (oops, excuse me, how about
"anxious") to hear all about it!

-Gail DeCamp

>> The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
>> because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
>> yellow on a white ground.





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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>>
>>  Is it Nuvan-Tops ? comes in two very expensive cans one for the
>> house and one for cats dogs etc. 
>
>No.  I can't remember the name but it was one word. 

Zodiac?  I've had excelllent luck with that brand.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 11:05:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:22:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
In-Reply-To: <0.62171ae1.257df778@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Regarding bees and the Merovingians, there are certain legends (which are
just that -- legends -- so far as I can tell; little or no proof to back
it up) that the Merovingian kings were descended from the line of King
David (you know, the one in the Bible).  I can't decide whether this falls
into the medieval practice of trying to tie everything into the Bible,
whether there was historic documentation or not, or whether there might
have been something to it, since a good number of Jewish exiles after the
fall of Jerusalem in 70 AD did wind up in what was then southern Roman
Gaul.  Who knows?  But they might have believed it themselves, whether
it's true or not, in which case the bees might have to do with that.  

I was thinking that David killed a lion, but I'm mistaken, it's Samson who
killed the lion then returned later to find that bees had taken up
residence in the skull.  Still, there might be a tie-in, symbolically.




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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: OT- Ships/IWTV (was Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Since you mentioned Interview with the Vampire -- did you get a chance to
see the Schooner Alexandria when she was in New Orleans for the shoot?
She only wound up in about 30 seconds of the film, during the opening
credits, but we (volunteer crew) were thrilled that she was used at all.
She has since been sold and is unfortunately keeping company with other
ships off Cape Hatteras in the aptly-named Graveyard of the Atlantic.

Cheers
Mara

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
In-Reply-To: <001d01bf4089$5e19a760$6b67fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Michelle wrote:
>    I agree.  When I first started participating in Renaissance Faires, I was
> told that the rule of thumb was -- if you can figure out how to get a color
> with nature, then you can use it. The point is, if you research and can find
> plants, bark, berries, etc. to get a certain color, chances are high that
> they did too.
> 
> Michelle

That's a good criteria.  I cringed a bit at the original poster saying
that if she'd seen a color in nature (i.e., the sunset), then she'd wear
it.  Well, there are some beautiful colors -- in flowers, bird plumage,
etc. -- which, while occuring in nature, are very hard or impossible to
acheive with natural dyes.  On the other hand, sometimes you'd be
surprised what you can find.

A good example is orchil, a dye from lichens in the Scottish Hebrides.
Yes, you can get brilliant mauves and pinks from this lichen, but it would
be SO cost-prohibitive that anything other than a stripe or a bit of trim
in this color would be beyond the means of any common person.  Likewise
with purple -- I got a rather muddy purple (more of a maroon) when I tried
overdyeing madder with indigo.  The fine ('royal') purples came from that
whelk whose name I can't remember right now, and the sheer quantity of
shellfish necessary to dye the fabric would have made it very expensive
for anyone to wear that particular shade of purple.

A good madder red is hard to acheive; usually it comes out barn-red.  This
color might or might not fade to a nice pink; it depends on the quality of
the dye and the skill of the dyer.  I think it is possible, but tricky.
They obviously did get pinks, if we can rely on the Tres Riches Heures.
It would be a good idea to look at existing portraits as a guide to what
range of colors was available.

The best reds in the Renaissance period were from cochineal or several
other insects.  This is where you get your true scarlets, and it would
probably be very expensive.  In the 18th century British army, soldiers'
coats were dyed with madder, and the officers' coats with cochineal.

I think any reenactor ought to get a good book on natural dyes, just to
give them a bit of an eye for the range of colors available.

Cheers,
Mara

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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:37:53 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



> ----------
> From: 	don and carolyn richardson[SMTP:benrumson@worldnet.att.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 9:21 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
> 
I said:
> > 
> >   It's a book of little details sort of
> > > like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever
> way it
> > > goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.
> Every
> 
And Carolyn said:
> True, but what's the objection?  Pepys *did* live in the period - if he
> doesn't know what he's talking about who does?  
> 
Did I object?  I also said "grouped by category".  Just a point of
information.

MaggiRos



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 11:30:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:43:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
In-Reply-To: <0.bf612c26.257e75eb@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

What did you use to get this color?  Inquiring minds want to know...
Cheers,
Mara


On Tue, 7 Dec 1999 AlbraKat@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com
> 
> When a batch of natural dyestuffs failed to arrive for a local class I was 
> teaching--we played with the herbs in my garden and the spices in my rack. 
> When the contents of my spice rack produced a most wonderous shade of neon 
> fuschia pink , I too, was convinced that earlier folks must have enjoyed it, 
> too!! 
> cheers,
> albra
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 11:39:54 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:46:13 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Nicole--

Thank you so much!  That's what I was hoping to hear.  In fact, I was
particularly hoping to hear from you, since I've spent kind of a lot of time
on your website lately <g>.  The last time I asked about this period, the
only reply I got was a pointer to the your URL.  Since I was specifically
looking for working class costume, it wasn't perhaps exactly to the point,
but I've sure been learning a lot!  

I bought this book particularly hoping to fill in some of the blanks in my
general (as well as costume) knowledge, and add credible detail to a work of
fiction.  My concern wasn't with her sources but with possible flaws in her
interpretation of them.  Good to know I can rely on her.  This is all just
for a novel, mind you, not an advanced degree or anything, but I do prefer
to be right :)

Thanks,


> MaggiRos
> 
> 
> Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
> and sometimes even 
> 	Maggie Secara
> 
A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1604)
is at   http://ren.dm.net


> ----------
> From: 	Marquis de Kipar[SMTP:marquis@kipar.org]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 8:08 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: Restoration London
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
> 
> 
> Congratulations on the book!
> 
> > I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I
> have it
> > I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
> > "Restoration London" by Liza Picard?
> 
> It is just absolutely fantastic!!! One of the ever best books I have 
> seen so far on the late 17th century, admittedly, the 1660s. 
> Wonderful, lovely, my bible. Picard isn't a historian, but a lawyer, 
> and thus all the wonderful 'evidence' is there. Everyday life from 
> brushing one's teeth to monthly hygiene over clothes to statsitics and 
> god knows what else.
> 
>   It's a book of little details sort of
> > like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever way
> it
> > goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.
> Every
> 
> and of course John Evelyn as well, and Hutchinson.
> 
> > now and then I run across something I think sounds "off" but it's not my
> > period really, so I don't like to trust that first reaction alone.
> 
> Do trust this book. *nods* What might sound "off" to you is not off, 
> but the truth. I have a very large and tall bookshelf from the floor to 
> the ceiling with almost exclusively books on the late 17th century 
> Baroque period, I live and breathe for the French and English 
> Baroque ;-), and Picard has researched her book extremely well. 
> Plus she almost always gives the source for her facts, which means 
> no arguing with her, because it was written down by 
> contemporaries. *S* It's my period, really, and I highly recommend 
> the book to everyone interested in the period. Around 8 pounds 
> sterling.
> Nicole
> 
> ************************
> N. Kipar
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> French and English Baroque
> http://www.kipar.org/
> *Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
> *Triumphant Even In Adversity*
> marquis@kipar.org
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 11:41:45 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:49:49 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Yep, I got it from Amazon.com (US) this week, $19.25.  My only objection is
there aren't nearly enough pictures!  Some good ones, oh yes, but I always
want more.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	KATE M BUNTING[SMTP:K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 07, 1999 5:52 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: Restoration London
> 
> 
> -Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> 
> My database tells me that this book IS now available in the US (St
> Martin's Press, ISBN 0312186592)
> 
> I haven't seen it myself, but it definitely sounds like one to look out
> for!
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 13:21:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 13:40:21 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
In-Reply-To: <384C9DDA.89B46E9A@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> I think I'd qualify that - don't buy any Singer machine made before
> 1965.  A lot of the 40s, 50s and 60s models came in green, pink, or tan
> (featherweights came in all 3 I think, as well as white).
> 
> And I doubt the featherweight reproduction scheduled for the end of the
> year will be worth the money.

I have seen *a* featherweight reproduction (not Singer, but with Singer's 
permission), with the same greek key decals, known as the "mini" or
something like that.  It was *not* worth the budget price it was given.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 13:32:00 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991206145418.16504B-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 19:44:43 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi all,

Mara wrote:
> (grin) But that's what dogs are for -- to eat all those scraps, and lick
> baby's face clean afterwards!  Why else would our ancestors have kept lots
> and lots of dogs underfoot (and under the table)?
>
> Ok, I'll stop the silliness now...

Ok. I know that it's meant to be silly, but it's sort of a pet (!) peeve of
mine: during most of the Middle Ages dogs were most of the time not kept as
pets (except for rich and/or noble ladies and wealthy abesses). They were
working animals. They were hunters for the nobility and farmers, guardians
of property or packanimals. Some of the first might have joined their noble
masters during dinner and were probably given scraps (see Duc de Berry in
his january portrait) and some lapdogs were very much indulged, but this
wasn't the norm. Dogs were certainly not as numerous as today and only from
a few breeds.
Henk

(And it has nothing to do with costume either... ;-)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 13:40:33 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E637841AD7D@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: escuz
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 19:36:10 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi all

Cynthia asked:
> I dont know what the abbreviation "escuz." is. Unit of money?

Yes, it's a French gold coin, coined since 1337 (and often called 'Old
Shield' in the early 15th c) by then worth about half of an English noble.
On it was the coat of arms of the kings of France, the three fleurs de lis
in a shield. Shield in French is 'ecu', of which 'escuz' is the medieval
plural. Funny thing is that the new European coin from 1.1.2001 is going to
be called 'ecu' again.

Henk

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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 21:05:14 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>



Dear Maggie,

> Thank you so much!  That's what I was hoping to hear.  In fact, I was
> particularly hoping to hear from you, since I've spent kind of a lot of time
> on your website lately <g>.  The last time I asked about this period, the
> only reply I got was a pointer to the your URL.  Since I was specifically
> looking for working class costume, it wasn't perhaps exactly to the point,
> but I've sure been learning a lot!  

*blush* Thanks a lot!
That's what makes me happy and worthwhile to spend hundred of 
hours on the website. And even more, I remembered, since you are 
looking for working class costume, that I still have engravings from 
1689 depicting lower classes. I uploaded them and put them into the 
galleries. I hope 1689 is a date helpful for you. Go to
http://www.kipar.org/galleries.html
and then to Baroque Englavings then to 1680s. They are at the 
bottom.
All the best and I hope this helps (if you have more questions, just 
mail me via the address below)
Nicole


************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 13:54:23 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:02:49 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Bless your heart!  Thank you.   My particular focus is the 1670s (1675 to be
specific for this novel)  Naturally I wouldn't pick a year anyone else was
using, or a decade in which anything apparently happened. But I figure
working from the 60s and 80s, I may be able to make some reasonable
extrapolations.

Thanks again.

Maggie

> ----------
> From: 	Marquis de Kipar[SMTP:marquis@kipar.org]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:05 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: Restoration London
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
> 
> 
> 
> Dear Maggie,
> 
> > Thank you so much!  That's what I was hoping to hear.  In fact, I was
> > particularly hoping to hear from you, since I've spent kind of a lot of
> time
> > on your website lately <g>.  The last time I asked about this period,
> the
> > only reply I got was a pointer to the your URL.  Since I was
> specifically
> > looking for working class costume, it wasn't perhaps exactly to the
> point,
> > but I've sure been learning a lot!  
> 
> *blush* Thanks a lot!
> That's what makes me happy and worthwhile to spend hundred of 
> hours on the website. And even more, I remembered, since you are 
> looking for working class costume, that I still have engravings from 
> 1689 depicting lower classes. I uploaded them and put them into the 
> galleries. I hope 1689 is a date helpful for you. Go to
> http://www.kipar.org/galleries.html
> and then to Baroque Englavings then to 1680s. They are at the 
> bottom.
> All the best and I hope this helps (if you have more questions, just 
> mail me via the address below)
> Nicole
> 
> 
> ************************
> N. Kipar
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> French and English Baroque
> http://www.kipar.org/
> *Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
> *Triumphant Even In Adversity*
> marquis@kipar.org
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 15:01:37 1999
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

I can't get my system to copy Judie Adams post, but she was saying that back in the Mists of Time the RPFN/RPFS folks decided no pastels.  They did, right around 1980.  They also decided wheel farthingales were out (there had been a few, earlier).  As I recall they wanted to focus court clothes on Elizabeth's mid reign and not the end of the reign with the huge ruffs, pale colors and monumental sized farthingales.  

So we've been stuck with jewel tones (which is to my mind, not the end of the world) and of course, black....

Pamela D. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 16:34:58 1999
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To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
References: <199912062139.OAA02658@net.indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Listowner
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-Poster: "Johnna and David Goss" <djgoss@bellsouth.net>

Will the listowner please email me.

Thanks,
djgoss

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 18:22:25 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



Nicole said: 
> Plus she almost always gives the source for her facts, which means 
> no arguing with her, because it was written down by 
> contemporaries. 
> 
I'd hate to take this logic too far.  We are all contemporary with our own
fashions and heaven knows we argue all the time over what we wore when and
how it was made and what it was (or is) called. Tends to happen every time
we talk about the 60s, for example, we find that not everyone remembers the
same things or the same way.  Facts get interpreted by every witness.  No
arguing?  Not around here.:)

I find that re-enactors (including faire people from faires with costume
standards) tend to have a much better idea about how clothes fit and were
worn than anyone writing from ordinary research.  

On the other hand, I constantly have to make myself realize I may be
applying what I know about one era to another


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 19:10:21 1999
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

I need to dredge up my class notes to tell you.Give me a day or so--to make 
good on that:)
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 19:15:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 20:15:55 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Orange Cloth (Was: A dying silk question)
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>> Orange is my favorite colour!
>
>Oh, then you need to check out the pumpkin colored unsheared corduroy that
>Phoenix Textiles has for sale for $3 a yard.   I already bought some in
>another color and was so delighted with it  that I couldn't resist placing
>another order for the pumpkin, too.   It is the softest stuff!
>
>http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/uncor2.html
>
>BTW, orders for $30 or more through Wednesday Dec. 9 get  free shipping,
>just in case you weren't tempted enough to order from them already.  I love
>Phoenix Textiles.  I always get such great deals from them.

Thanks!  I will. <g>  I'm not sure my husband will thank you but, hey, its
orange!  I hope no one buys it all before I get there!

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 19:17:07 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 18:45:50 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>


> That's a good criteria.  I cringed a bit at the original poster saying
> that if she'd seen a color in nature (i.e., the sunset), then she'd wear
> it.  

I never said I would wear it.  Sheesh....

Kathlene
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> Folks may have enjoyed it at times. However, it was not as popular 
> amongst the people who bought cloth as one might think. Yes, they did 
> have it (and peach) but it is our *modern* aesthetics which says they 
> would like it if we do. They had different attitudes about this.
> 
> That's why the old saw "if they could have had it they would have 
> used it" doesn't work when studying history. There are a lot of 
> things they could have done and didn't because they didn't like it. 
> It wasn't their style. Pink is one of those things which could be 
> done and was done some, but wasn't as popular as it is now.
> 
> Kat 

Who is they?  When? Where?  This is too much of a generalization 

Again, I just can't bring myself to believe that, somewhere on this vast
planet, over the last 2000 or more years, neon-like pink was not at one
time or another, all the rage.  Just because we as modern humans with all
of our knowledge, machines and science, don't know about it, doesn't make
it not so.

There is a philosophy whose basic principle is, "There is nothing new under
the sun."  It is most accurate when applied to fashion.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 20:09:52 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 18:23:25 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
In-Reply-To: <199912070620.HAA16755@raq.dnsworld.de>
References: <0.62171ae1.257df778@aol.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 07:21 AM 12/07/1999 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Nicole-- I found three citations that may have the info. you were citing,
and I believe it's the 1st that's the one-- Carol / Gra/inne


1. Die Franken : Wegbereiter Europas : vor 1500 Jahren, Konig Chlodwig und
   seine Erben.  Mainz : Verlag P. von Zabern, c1996.
       UCB   Main      DC64 .F73 1996 v.1-2 (1996)
       UCLA  URL       DC 64 F73 1996
       UCSB  Arts Lib  AEC-83520 Arts
       UCSD  Art&Arch  DC64 .F73 1996 Stacks

2. Kaiser, Reinhold.
     Die Franken : Roms Erben und Wegbereiter Europas? / Reinhold Kaiser.  1.
   Aufl.  Idstein : Schulz-Kirchner, 1997.
     Series title:  Historisches Seminar (Series) ; n.F., Bd. 10.
       UCB   Main      DC64 .K35 1997

3. Oppermann, Hans, 1895-
     Caesar, Wegbereiter Europas.  Gottingen, Musterschmidt [1963, c1958].
     Series title:  Personlichkeit und Geschichte ; Bd. 10.
       SRLF            A 0008951147 Type EXP SRLF for loan details.


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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 21:46:01 EST
Subject: Re: OT- Ships/IWTV (was Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/07/1999 12:30:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lindo@Radix.Net writes:

<< Since you mentioned Interview with the Vampire -- did you get a chance to
 see the Schooner Alexandria when she was in New Orleans for the shoot?
 She only wound up in about 30 seconds of the film, during the opening
 credits, but we (volunteer crew) were thrilled that she was used at all.
 She has since been sold and is unfortunately keeping company with other
 ships off Cape Hatteras in the aptly-named Graveyard of the Atlantic.
  >>

How sad! I live on the coast of NC and have been to the Outer Banks many 
times. I remember some 1830s masted ship washed up on a public beach after a 
storm one fall when we were there. People were flocking to it with chainsaws 
and cutting chunks off as souvenirs! The police couldn't stop them so they 
gave everybody parking tickets for parking on the sand and imposed the 
highest fines.

On "Vampire" I worked in the shop from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM and they filmed 
from 8:00 PM to 8:00 AM so I never was on set or saw any filming, alas.
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 21:47:45 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Thank you Kathlene.I could'nt have said it better.
Albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 20:31:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 18:44:13 -0800
To: (Recipient list suppressed)
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Widowhood
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

I don't recall if this was a topic on H-Costume or SCA Garb, so I'm posting
it to both.  I just copycataloged a pbk. copy of this today.  It would be a
worthwhile read for those with widow-/widower personae from England, Italy,
Germany, from a quick skim through. -- Gra/inne / Carol

>   LCCN: 98-52954    ISBN: 0582317479 (cased) ;  0582317487 (paper :
17.99p. UK)
>LC Call#: HQ1058.5.E97 W53 1999 Dewey Decimal #: 305.48/9654/094 2 21
>   Widowhood in medieval and early modern Europe /  edited by Sandra
Cavallo and
>Lyndan Warner.   Singapore :  Longman ;  Harlow, U.K. ;  New York :  Pearson
>Education Ltd., c1999.   xiii, 272 p. :  ill. ; 22 cm. (Women and men in
>history)    Includes bibliographical references (p. 240-261) and index.
>1. Widowhood--Europe--History. 2. Widows--Europe--History. 3.
Widowers--Europe--History. 
>I. Cavallo, Sandra.  II. Warner, Lyndan.  UC Davis's Zebra ID#:
31175024933973

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 21:05:28 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 22:22:28 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

I seem to recall reading that this book, by Stella Mary Newton, was out.
But I just tried Borders.com and Amazon, and they have it listed as back
ordered, not out yet.  Has it been released?  Is there a better place for me
to order it from?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 21:10:58 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 12:38 PM 12/7/99 -0500, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
[lots of snips]
>
>They obviously did get pinks, if we can rely on the Tres Riches Heures.
>It would be a good idea to look at existing portraits as a guide to what
>range of colors was available.

I have a picture of a full-length portrait of Sir Francis Drake, painted c.
1580-85, in which he is wearing a full suite of clothes in an intense pink:
doublet (satin), venetians (velvet), and netherhose (probably knitted in
silk), plus cloak (satin). Said doublet worn with white, slashed sleeves
(satin). Cloak is lined with black and the black is edged with wide silver
lace; the collar and fronts of the cloak are turned to show the black
against the pink cloak. He is wearing white shoes inserted into black
pantofles (sp?) to protect them. He is holding a soft black hat (looks like
velvet) in his hand. And he is wearing a sword and back dagger (you can see
the end of the hilt peeking out on his right side). I would like to see
anyone accuse *this* seaman of being weak! Looks to me like this color would
merit the label "lusty gallant"!

>I think any reenactor ought to get a good book on natural dyes, just to
>give them a bit of an eye for the range of colors available.

I agree completely, Mara. Too many people have no idea what colors are
possible with natural dyestuffs. In many cases today's dyestuffs are simply
synthetically produced copies of natural plant dyes; indigo is the prime
example but it is not alone.  Our ancestors found the best sources for red
and blue dyes; all we have done is copy them.

One thing to remember, silk takes dyes *much* more intensely than wool.
Putting silk and wool samples into the same dyebath can be very instructive.
Most of the portraits we are using are of people wearing silk fabrics of one
sort or another.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 21:16:27 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: costume list <H-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: partlet q
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

Just quickly (this is for something I'd like to have finished by
Saturday), can anyone give me an idea of how common partlets
without collars were? (Talking the black over-partlet here, not the
linen 'is this a shirt or not' sort)


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 20:08:53 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
References: <4.2.0.58.19991205083536.00965d70@pop.farg.uswest.net> <4.2.0.58.19991207084341.0094ec80@pop.farg.uswest.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kim Baird wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
> 
> Don't you mean AFTER 1965?
> 
> At 09:40 PM 12/06/1999 -0800, you wrote:
> 
> >-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
> >
> >I think I'd qualify that - don't buy any Singer machine made before
> >1965.  A lot of the 40s, 50s and 60s models came in green, pink, or tan
> >(featherweights came in all 3 I think, as well as white).

Yep.  Mea culpa.  That should have been *after* 1965.  My primary
machine is a 1961 Model 500A.  I'm thinking of one of the fancy
embroidery machines (I was looking at the Janome) but since buying a $20
buttonholer for the slant 500A (on Ebay, a wonderful place), I'm less
inclined to spend the nearly $2000 on the model I was looking at.  I
really only wanted it for buttonholes. 

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 22:54:08 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 06:10:17 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>

Morning Carol,

> Nicole-- I found three citations that may have the info. you were citing,
> and I believe it's the 1st that's the one-- Carol / Gra/inne
> 
> 
> 1. Die Franken : Wegbereiter Europas : vor 1500 Jahren, Konig Chlodwig und
>    seine Erben.  Mainz : Verlag P. von Zabern, c1996.
>        UCB   Main      DC64 .F73 1996 v.1-2 (1996)
>        UCLA  URL       DC 64 F73 1996
>        UCSB  Arts Lib  AEC-83520 Arts
>        UCSD  Art&Arch  DC64 .F73 1996 Stacks

Yes, exactly, it is this one *S* So you did find it by inter library 
loan? Fantastic books but... of course in German (I translated quite 
some now and then for my boyfriend ;-) But the illustrations are 
worth borrowing it anyway, loads of them.
Enjoy!
Nicole
P.S. If you need the odd picture caption to be translated, just send it 
over, no problem.
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 22:58:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 23:27:12 -0600
From: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>
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Subject: H-COST: quotes  was: bees
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

I'm sorry to take so long in getting back to this.  I know it is
probably too late for your class sampler, but I thought I'd go ahead and
send this out for the future.  There is a resource online called the
Internet Public Library that has links to all sorts of reference
materials.  For instance, there are links to about 14 different quote
pages in the quotation section (under reference), including a link to
Bartlett's online.

http://www.ipl.org/ref/

It is a great site.  I highly recommend it for quick reference searches.

-Magdalena the librarian in training

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 23:04:49 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Pink!
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I have several "color wheel" samples of wool dyed in pre-1600 dyes & 
mordants. There is a lovely pink dyed with cochineal mordanted with tin ( or 
dyed in a tin pot). Medieval illuminations (like the Tres Riches Heures) show 
pink garments next to red ones, so pink was NOT a red that faded, like some 
have argued. 

Kathleen Norvell
How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
--"Start the Revolution without Me"
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 23:34:50 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 06:53:23 +0100
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Subject: H-COST: 1670s (was Restoration London)
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


Hi Maggie,

> Oh these are perfect.  Perfect!  Now of course if you do happen to run
> across anything for mid-70s English, of course I'll want to know. 

There you go, I put up more engravings into the 1670s section. 
Including some hunting scenes, which means not the latest fashion 
is depicted in them.

> is grand!  The current story is set in '75 (and actually in the Caribbean,
> where it's such a pain sifting good material from bad pyrates), but it's

It's a safe bet to look at English or French fashion and extrapolate 
from there. Plus, what came out to be very true is the following: 
lower/working class costume is always 'old fashioned' in the sense 
of 'keeping one's best clothing for many years'. Thus if you describe 
1660s clothing for the 1670s, it wouldn't be wrong. Of course it was 
impossible for the people to be dressed according to the latest 
fashion. Unless, of course, it is a maid or manservant in service of a 
noble or rich person who would then probably be dressed in a 
simpler version of their Mistress's/Master's high fashion. A lot like 
nowadays, when cars are a status symbol, or an expensive leash for 
a dog. I know this sounds a bit weird now, but it's the best 
comparison I have available ;-)

> Now how an Elizabethan girl like me found herself in the early Baroque is,
> well, another story.  In any case, I may very well be tugging on your sleeve
> for a hint or two in the next few weeks while I finish the last chapter and
> refine the rest before turning it over to my agent.  Thanks for
> volunteering!

No problem. *S* oh, and your comment on how people nowadays 
get the contemporary clothing wrong, hmm... but they were 
eyewitnesses. Have you actually read Pepys? There are 
paperbacks available. And his descriptions of what he bought for his 
wife or for himself are really very detailed, he had a keen interest in 
clothes. After all, he made a career in Restoration London, and 
again, clothes for himself and his wife were a status symbol of his 
upgoing in society.

All the best
Nicole

************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 03:48:42 1999
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From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Re; Pink
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-Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>

Just a thought, but is the 'problem with pink' more to do with terminology
rather than wether the colour existed? Without the photographs etc. how else
would people describe colours than with reference to known items? Does
anyone know when pinks were introduced? (All my fathers pinks are white!)
The textile artist who has recreated some of the painted textiles for
Hampton court warns of using paintings as evidence for fabric colours.
For years I'd been told that orange carrots didn't exist until the 18th
century, then one day I was shown a beautiful gardening book from 1638 which
described both red and white carrots. The hand coloured illustration was of
orange carrots. This got me thinking, as I have two red haired daughters who
were curious as to why their orangey blonde hair was called red? Perhaps
it's because oranges were relatively rare so the common association of
colour with the fruit wasn't used until later? Modern colour descriptions
tend to be more mundane anyway.
As to bright colours, I finally got to see goose turds! Rather than the
muted green I thought goose turd green would be it was a strange bright
yellowy green.

Joy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 06:33:20 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: folly_hill@hotmail.com
Subject: H-COST: Old Store Stock Inventory Complete!
Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 04:43:39 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Hi guys,
Just letting every one know that the Old Store Stock Inventory is complete 
and we are finalizing the format for the bidding and notification to 
interested parties.  Please let everyone who is interested (or might be) 
know that bidding is scheduled to be from Jan. 1, 2000 to Jan. 15, 2000.  
There will be a viewing date tentatively scheduled for Wednesday, Jan. 5, 
2000 where people can come and see the merchandise before they submit a bid. 
  There are over 3000 items, divided into over 300 lots of like components.  
Bids will be accepted for individual lots (thes are mostly groups of 10 or 
so like items) or the entire inventory, which is valued at well over 
$30,000.  Minimum bids will be posted, and the owner of the inventory 
reserves the right to reject all bids if the minimum is not met.  Winning 
bidders will be notified within 3 days after the bidding closes Jan. 15.  
Payment will be in cashier's check, money order, or wired funds.  Personal 
checks will be held for 14 business days to clear.  Reasonable shipping 
charges will be added unless prior arrangements are made.  Again, a list of 
items in the inventory includes:

(all items c. 1890 - 1940, unsold overstock from TofC General Store)
Corsets & girdles
Stockings - silk, wool, and cotton
Gloves & mittens - cotton, rayon, silk, and wool types
Hats (knitted & leather caps, mostly)
Ladies' shirtwaists
Men's pants & shirts
Children's clothing
Boxed shoes - mostly ladies, some childrens
Unboxed shoes & boots - men's, women's, children's
Galoshes
Sewing supplies - thread, notions, buckles, etc.
Millinery ribbon - rayon and silk
Underwear - incl. nainsook bocker sets, silky rayon tap pants, wool long 
johns, all types
2 thread cabinets w/ unsold silk thread in mint condition
Wool & wool blend sweaters - many in unbelievably great condition - men's, 
women's, children's

If you are interested and have not yet notified me, please do so now so that 
I can see you get a copy of the inventory & photos of the merchandise.

Please pass this on to the vintage costume mailing list, as I do not 
subscribe and I know there are people out there who need this stuff.  I will 
post a message to the list when the final dates & arrangements are made, 
within the next week or two.  So stay tuned!

Thanks,
Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991208124339.66964.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Old Store Stock Inventory Complete!
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>


----- Original Message -----
From: Susannah Eanes <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:43 AM

> Hi guys,
> Just letting every one know that the Old Store Stock Inventory is complete
> and we are finalizing the format for the bidding and notification to
> interested parties.

Oh hooray!  I have been _waiting_ for these. ;-)
>
> Please pass this on to the vintage costume mailing list, as I do not
> subscribe and I know there are people out there who need this stuff.

I'll be happy to.....or wait...that would mean more
competition....hmm....*grin*
Okay, okay, I listened to the good angel on my shoulder and just did it. =)

Can't wait to see everything!
Kerrie (who will now be saving every penny that falls into her Christmas
stocking)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 07:52:33 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: partlet q
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991208135731.9936B-100000@mercury.physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


In Flanders in the 1550s to 1570s, they were very commonly worn by
peasants, marketwomen, and others working outdoors.  In Flemish genre
paintings of the time, most women are shown either wearing a black partlet
with a flared collar, or a white partlet of the same shape.  
Partlets with ruffs attached to a collar band began appearing in late
1560s paintings, and were ubiquitous in paintings of the 1570s.

These partlets were a feather of lower-class or servants' dress; I haven't
seen them worn with upper class or merchant class dress in the 1570s.

Hope this helps,

Drea

 On Wed, 8
Dec 1999, The Purple Elephant wrote:

> 
> -Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
> 
> Just quickly (this is for something I'd like to have finished by
> Saturday), can anyone give me an idea of how common partlets
> without collars were? (Talking the black over-partlet here, not the
> linen 'is this a shirt or not' sort)
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
> Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
> and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
> friendly substance.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:03:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:18:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
In-Reply-To: <199912080133.SAA10350@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, K & J Hopkins wrote:
> Who is they?  When? Where?  This is too much of a generalization 
> 
> Again, I just can't bring myself to believe that, somewhere on this vast
> planet, over the last 2000 or more years, neon-like pink was not at one
> time or another, all the rage.  Just because we as modern humans with all
> of our knowledge, machines and science, don't know about it, doesn't make
> it not so.
> 
> There is a philosophy whose basic principle is, "There is nothing new under
> the sun."  It is most accurate when applied to fashion.
> 
> Kathlene

Maybe.  BUT -- research and document!  You could use the same argument
that camoflauge fatigue-cloth was surely all the rage somewhere, sometime
in the past... and then use it to justify making 16th c. garb out of it.
I know that's not your intention, but...  There ARE new things, and we DO
need to figure out what's appropriate for our period before doing it.  The
people who assume that some things are not period without doing their
research and the people who assume that some things are period without
doing their research are both at fault.

We need a careful balance between 'Nobody has ever done that' and 'Surely
somebody did that', and that balance is mediated by research.

Cheers,
Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:05:52 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:22:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: OT- Ships/IWTV (was Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
In-Reply-To: <0.525dc43d.257f2069@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> How sad! I live on the coast of NC and have been to the Outer Banks many 
> times. I remember some 1830s masted ship washed up on a public beach after a 
> storm one fall when we were there. People were flocking to it with chainsaws 
> and cutting chunks off as souvenirs! The police couldn't stop them so they 
> gave everybody parking tickets for parking on the sand and imposed the 
> highest fines.
> 
> On "Vampire" I worked in the shop from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM and they filmed 
> from 8:00 PM to 8:00 AM so I never was on set or saw any filming, alas.

Ugh -- I hate to hear about people doing that.  We have so little respect
for our sailing heritage...  The Alexandria was built in 1929, a
traditional Baltic schooner, so she's not as big a loss as, say, a
historic vessel.  They're still building ships like her in the Baltic, I'm
happy to say.

I know Anne Rice fans had problems with IWTV, but the movie (and our
ship's involvement with it) at least got me to read her books!  I'd never
heard of her before.  Great costumes :D

-- Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:10:31 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re; Pink
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

It could  very well be a terminology thing.As you say, with regard to  the 
REAL, fresh from the goose  'goose turd green',  in particular---it looks 
rather shockingly like the 'acid' or 'lime' or 'pistachio' green that made 
it's revival in fashion circles of late:)
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:12:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:29:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991207192526.3b577fb2@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Joan M Jurancich wrote:
> 
> At 12:38 PM 12/7/99 -0500, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> [lots of snips]
> >
> >They obviously did get pinks, if we can rely on the Tres Riches Heures.
> >It would be a good idea to look at existing portraits as a guide to what
> >range of colors was available.
> 
> I have a picture of a full-length portrait of Sir Francis Drake, painted c.
> 1580-85, in which he is wearing a full suite of clothes in an intense pink:
> doublet (satin), venetians (velvet), and netherhose (probably knitted in
> silk), plus cloak (satin). Said doublet worn with white, slashed sleeves
> (satin)
(snips)

Certainly sounds interesting!  And like I said, it's pretty clear that
pinks were available... but I still think that 'neon' is a bit much.
 
> >I think any reenactor ought to get a good book on natural dyes, just to
> >give them a bit of an eye for the range of colors available.
> 
> I agree completely, Mara. Too many people have no idea what colors are
> possible with natural dyestuffs. In many cases today's dyestuffs are simply
> synthetically produced copies of natural plant dyes; indigo is the prime
> example but it is not alone.  Our ancestors found the best sources for red
> and blue dyes; all we have done is copy them.
> 
> One thing to remember, silk takes dyes *much* more intensely than wool.
> Putting silk and wool samples into the same dyebath can be very instructive.
> Most of the portraits we are using are of people wearing silk fabrics of one
> sort or another.
> 
> Joan Jurancich
> Sacramento, CA
> joanj@quiknet.com

Point taken.  However, I disagree that modern synthetic dyes are usually
copies of natural dyes.  I'm thinking in particular of a gawd-awful piece
of neon-green woolen fabric, the posessor of whom will remain nameless.  I
refuse to believe that that neon green was acheivable in the 18th century,
on wool.  I've never seen a similar shade in any period portraits, and I
don't think I could even begin to duplicate it using natural dyes.

Fortunately, such lapses in color judgement are rare :D

Usually I fall on the side of the argument that says we would be simply
amazed at the wonderful and creative things our ancestors could do.  But
that simply MUST be tempered with caution and research.

Cheers,
Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:14:01 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:30:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Banyan question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991208135731.9936B-100000@mercury.physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Can anyone point me to pictures on the web, or instructions, for a man's
dressing gown from the mid-1700s?

Thanks,
Mara


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:18:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:34:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Pink!
In-Reply-To: <0.c651ca74.257f44a4@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

We did a cochineal/tin sample at a workshop I took last year, and
got a shockingly bright shade of pink.  Quite lovely!  (But I still
wouldn't call it neon <grin>)

Cheers,
Mara


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999 Appin1@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Appin1@aol.com
> 
> I have several "color wheel" samples of wool dyed in pre-1600 dyes & 
> mordants. There is a lovely pink dyed with cochineal mordanted with tin ( or 
> dyed in a tin pot). Medieval illuminations (like the Tres Riches Heures) show 
> pink garments next to red ones, so pink was NOT a red that faded, like some 
> have argued. 
> 
> Kathleen Norvell
> How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
> --"Start the Revolution without Me"
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991208091938.3151C-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:44:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>


----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:34:16 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Claudia Kidwell's article on short gowns, in Dress, vol. 4 (1978) shows 
directions from M. de Garsault for a "manteau-de-lit."  You should be able to 
find the volume in a good university library.  Back issues are also available 
from the Costume Society of America:  www.costumesocietyamerica.com.  A 
banyan was basically just a longer version of a short gown.  The 
milliners/tailor at Colonial Williamsburg have made a reproduction of a 
banyan in their collection.  I'm not sure if they have information available 
on how to do it.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:45:44 1999
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From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

The book is just now arriving in publisher Boydell & Brewer's US warehouse.  It was originally supposed to be published in September, but was delayed.

You can reach them at:

Boydell & Brewer
PO Box 41026, Rochester NY 14604
P (716) 275-0419 F (716) 271-8778
www.boydell.co.uk   

Regards, 

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs

>>> "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net> 12/07 7:22 PM >>>

-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

I seem to recall reading that this book, by Stella Mary Newton, was out.
But I just tried Borders.com and Amazon, and they have it listed as back
ordered, not out yet.  Has it been released?  Is there a better place for me
to order it from?

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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:02:14 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/08/1999 9:32:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
lindo@Radix.Net writes:

<< 
 Can anyone point me to pictures on the web, or instructions, for a man's
 dressing gown from the mid-1700s?
  >>

I have a picture of 3 men all in Banyans in a Metro. Museum bulletin I can 
try to scan and send you. [We got the procedure down for that 1770s coat 
thread] The early one is a T shaped tunic! out of fantastic Indian silk. The 
later ones in the group are tailored somewhat like a mans coat.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 10:31:24 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Just a thought, but is the 'problem with pink' more to do with terminology
> rather than wether the colour existed? Without the photographs etc. how else
> would people describe colours than with reference to known items? Does
> anyone know when pinks were introduced? (All my fathers pinks are white!)

Pinks by the 16th century were a range of colors but what we now call 
pink is one of them (as can be seen by portraits of the time). Tudor 
times was one of the first times when pink as a color for clothing 
was popular (the ones in Tres Riche Heurs being a rarity, not a 
common color at the time). They became more popular as you get to 
Elizabethan times. They were probably made with either lichens (for 
small amounts such as used in embroidery or tapestries) and either 
madder or kermes (madder giving a more brick pink) pre1500, then 
cochineal after 1500. 

> The textile artist who has recreated some of the painted textiles for
> Hampton court warns of using paintings as evidence for fabric colours.

You can find pink in tapestries from the time periods pre1600  and 
there are color descriptions in manuscripts which help as well. 
Manuscripts, wills and inventories give us an idea of how common 
colors were.

> For years I'd been told that orange carrots didn't exist until the 18th
> century, then one day I was shown a beautiful gardening book from 1638 which
> described both red and white carrots. The hand coloured illustration was of
> orange carrots. 

As far as carrots are concerned, we know exactly when the mutation 
for the gene arrived. Until shortly after 1600 (I forget the exact 
date. It's either 1604 or 1607) there were yellow, white and purple 
carrots. There was a new mutation which was so dominant, it became 
just about the only color available. Although you can sometimes find 
seeds for white carrots (which look more like parsnips but taste like 
carrots) in catalogs which specialize in "old varieties", you can't 
get the yellow or purple anymore. Also, if you grow the white ones 
anywhere near where there are orange ones, the next years seeds are 
going to grow orange ones. (Been there, done that.)

This got me thinking, as I have two red haired daughters who
> were curious as to why their orangey blonde hair was called red? Perhaps
> it's because oranges were relatively rare so the common association of
> colour with the fruit wasn't used until later? Modern colour descriptions
> tend to be more mundane anyway.

I do know that red hair has been called that from fairly early in 
history. I come from a very red headed family (which is a 
recessessive gene but that didn't seem to make a difference in our 
family.) Our family got its name (Russell) from the french for red in 
early medieval times. In reading about the family, the "red" is 
described in many shades from pink to russet to tawny to flaming  and 
many others I'd have to dig out too many sheets of paper to list. I 
don't know when they started describing it as "orange" or "carroty" 
but it's probably fairly recent.

I think what this whole discussion boils down to is that: 
1. even when they could get the color, it wasn't necessarily used. 
Our modern aethetics doesn't match what they would have liked and 
what they liked changed from year to year (sometimes regulated by the 
guilds so that even if you liked it, it wouldn't have been 
available.) Also even if *you* liked it, you wouldn't be caught dead 
wearing it because we can get away with individuality now in a way 
that didn't happen in most other period in Europe.

2. do the research. Don't assume that something popular in 1580 was 
popular in 1550, let alone 1800 or in 1200, even if you like it.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 12:26:42 1999
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Subject: H-COST: partlets
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 99 09:47:34 -0800
x-sender: gdecamp@shell12.ba.best.com
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From: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>



I have seen plenty of pictures of these. This is from memory, I can go
home and look up artists and dates if you want. (I lectured on this at
last year's Celebrate History convention, and I still have the slides
from that.)

When:  1540-1580
Where: Lowlands (roughly, belgium IIRC)
On Who:  Mainly I found these in pictures of women who were well,
but not richly, dressed. I found black over-partlets worn with red 
bodices and skirts, and the women also had white linen stomachers
and head coverings. 

cheers,

Gail DeCamp

>- -Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
>
>Just quickly (this is for something I'd like to have finished by
>Saturday), can anyone give me an idea of how common partlets
>without collars were? (Talking the black over-partlet here, not the
>linen 'is this a shirt or not' sort)



Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.  

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:15:56 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re; Pink
In-Reply-To: <005301bf4164$b57768e0$6a21893e@default>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999, Joy Shillaker wrote:

> Just a thought, but is the 'problem with pink' more to do with terminology
> rather than wether the colour existed?

I always figured that the myth that "Pink isn't period" came from a
misinterpretation of the fact that the *word* pink wasn't period (at least
not in SCA/Faire periods). The word comes from the name of the flower,
which itself was named for its ragged edges (using the earlier meaning of
the word "pink," as in pinked edges). It's been a while since I looked
this up, so I don't have the dates of the word origins handy, but they're
in the OED, among other places.

Anyway, I figure the current misunderstanding may have gone like this
(over the course of time):

Person One: "Did you know the word `pink' isn't period?"
Person Two: "Person One says `pink' isn't period."
Rest of flock: "Pink isn't period!"

Person One may have been a well-read book or article, for that matter.

I don't think there's much question that the *color* pink existed. It just
wasn't called "pink."

--Robin

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912081648.IAA20239@eclipse.pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re; Pink
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi List,

Kat wrote:
> Pinks by the 16th century were a range of colors but what we now call
> pink is one of them (as can be seen by portraits of the time). Tudor
> times was one of the first times when pink as a color for clothing
> was popular (the ones in Tres Riche Heurs being a rarity, not a
> common color at the time).

Just recently I have browsed through thousands of miniatures, mostly in
black and white, because the books which published the manuscripts in
facsimile at the time (pre World War II) were not in colour, but also lots
of them in colour (especially the more recent facsimile's). Apart from such
well known MSS as the Maciejowski Bible, the Manesse Codex and The Luttrell
Psalter and the Romance of Alexander, there are hundreds more of my period
(1250-1350). I can assure you, that lots of cottes, surcottes and several
other types of overcoats and mantles are painted in pinks. Of course
manuscript colours are not the same as cloth dyes and a painter might have a
limited palette, but IMO pink was a pretty common colour before 1400. It
might be a costly wool or silk for a noble or rich merchant, or a faded red
(Dutch people are mentioned to wear red a lot before 1500) with peasants or
artisans, but they are depicted in pinks, yes sir!

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 12:50:50 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:05:11 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Hands-On WOrkshops (fwd)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

As this is on the East Coast, I won't be able to attend. However, if some of
you who are closer happen to drop by, I'd be interested in a review of this
event.

>  -----fwd--------
>  Subject: Hands-On WOrkshops
>  
>  Crafts and skills from Eastern Europe and the Balkans will be featured
>  at the upcoming Celebration 2000 conference, held at Tompkins Cortland 
>  Community college, May 12,13,14, 2000.
>  
>  Participants will be able to actually make Polish papercuttings, paint
>  Silesian wood ornaments and learn Czech and Slovak folkdance. They will
>  see demonstrations of Russian woodcarving, Ukrainian and Ruthenian egg
>  decoration and learn about Hungarian folk textiles. The workshops will
>  take place on Friday afternoon, May 12 from 12-3 and from 3-5pm. Sign up
>  now for these workshops. During the afternoon, videos on folk crafts and
>  life will be shown to those not participating in the workshops.
>  
>  Famed dancers, Jeanette and Don Pafko will demonstrate folk dances from
>  the Czech and Slovak republics in the dance studio. Then, participants
>  will learn dance steps and try out folk dances. At the same time,
>  Professor Nicolai Klimaczewski will demonstrate Russian woodcarving. Nic
>  has restored several local Orthodox churches. In the art studio
>  Professor Mary Kelly, who spent several summers in Krakow will show her
>  collection of Polish papercuttings, demonstrate and help participants to
>  make their own papercuttings using traditional methods.
>  
>  During the later session, California painter Marilyn Brown demonstrate
>  Silesian folk painting and help students to paint a wood ornament. At
>  the same time, Binghamton artist Kathy Tatich, will show her collection
>  of Rusyn and Ukrainian eggs and demonstrate the wax batik and scratch
>  methods of decorating and dyeing them. FInally Hungarian textile artist
>  Eniko Farkas will discuss embroidery and lacemaking tehniques of her
>  native land, augmenting her presentation with pieces from her personal
>  collection.  
>  
>  After the workshops, an art opening the the college Board Room gallery
>  will feature the photography show "Sisters to Amazons", folk dress and
>  life in the Volga region of Chuvashia, Russia. Chuvash ethnographer
>  Valentina Elem will be present during the opening and will bring with
>  her many spectacular pieces from her collection of folkdress.
>  
>  the evening will conclude with a Parade of Folkdress organized and
>  narrated by Helene CIncebeaux, of Rochester, NY. Constumes from each of
>  the regions highlighted by the conference will be modeled by their
>  owners. The conference is sponsored by the Department of Humanities.
>  Pleases direct inquiries to Sandra Pollack, alternate coordinator at the
>  college pollacs@sunytccc.edu.
>   
>  


Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 12:53:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 11:09:14 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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References: <199912081648.IAA20239@eclipse.pacifier.com> <007801bf41ae$02ed8a20$70eaf1c3@henk>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Just recently I have browsed through thousands of miniatures, mostly in
> black and white, because the books which published the manuscripts in
> facsimile at the time (pre World War II) were not in colour, but also lots
> of them in colour (especially the more recent facsimile's). Apart from such
> well known MSS as the Maciejowski Bible, the Manesse Codex and The Luttrell
> Psalter and the Romance of Alexander, there are hundreds more of my period
> (1250-1350).

Henk, I have looked and looked and can't find the Romance of Alexander or the
Manesse Codex.  Which leads me to believe that the books are titled
differently.  I would so love some titles or your book list or something along
those lines.  Can you do this?

Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:23:15 -0500
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Mabel
Allo everyone!
I posted this to the list earlier, but when it arrived in my inbox the =
entire message was blank.  If it didn't come in that way for anyone else =
I apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd re-send it just in case. =
=3D)=20

----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:18:30 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re; Pink
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:27:29 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



> ----------
> From: 	Robin Netherton[SMTP:robin@shell.nightowl.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 08, 1999 10:15 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Re; Pink
> 
> 
> -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
> 
> Person One: "Did you know the word `pink' isn't period?"
> Person Two: "Person One says `pink' isn't period."
> Rest of flock: "Pink isn't period!"
> 
> Person One may have been a well-read book or article, for that matter.
> 
Uh-hunh.  The folk process in action!  That's exactly what happens.  Or
someone says "buttons aren't period"  or pockets or any number of things.
Sometimes they mean "we don't want you to use them" but they don't trust
their people, or think everyone is dumb, or what people remember (because
someone of them weren't paying attention) and what remains is "it isn't
period."

Sad but true.  This is probably how someone arrived at the "knowledge" that
metal isn't period, too. :)


MaggiRos




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:30:22 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 11:52:24 -0800
Subject: FW: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Here is some info I got on the availability of this book.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
From: Irene Joshi <joshi@u.washington.edu>
To: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
Subject: Re: FW: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Wed, Dec 8, 1999, 11:25 AM


Barnes and Noble lists as available in 1-2 weeks.  $28.00

Amazon.co.uk  lists as shipped in 24 hours. pds. 15.99.

This is a reprint of 1980.  


Irene Joshi, M.L.S.
South Asia Librarian 
Box 352900 
University of Washington
Seattle, WA 98195-2900
http://www.lib.washington.edu/subject/SouthAsia/
Committee on South Asia Libraries and Documentation
http://www.lib.virginia.edu/area-studies/SouthAsia/Lib/consald.html

On Wed, 8 Dec 1999, R.L. Shep wrote:

> Isn't this your area??
> Robb
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
> 
> ----------
> From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
> Date: Tue, Dec 7, 1999, 7:22 PM
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> 
> I seem to recall reading that this book, by Stella Mary Newton, was out.
> But I just tried Borders.com and Amazon, and they have it listed as back
> ordered, not out yet.  Has it been released?  Is there a better place for
me
> to order it from?
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
> 



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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:40:25 -0500
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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MabelAllo everyone!
I posted this to the list earlier, but when it arrived in my inbox the =
entire message was blank.  If it didn't come in that way for anyone else =
I apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd re-send it just in case. =
=3D)=20

----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM

> Ugh -- I hate to hear about people doing that.  We have so little =
respect
> for our sailing heritage...

This is too true!  Anyone in or near Philadelphia, who's interested in =
such
things, might like to know that the beautiful S.S. United States is =
sitting
forlornly at pier 82.
Even though she's been stripped of all her fittings, her paint is faded =
and
she's all but covered in rust, she is still one of the most breathtaking
sights I've ever seen.  We make it a point to drive by the pier and =
"visit"
whenever we go downtown.  =3D)
There is an effort in motion to try to have this ship restored to her =
old
glory, please visit Mike Alexander's website at:
http://www.ss-united-states.com/ .  He's got some wonderful pictures, =
both
before and after, and an incredible amount of information.

Cheers!
Kerrie


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

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<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#993399>Allo everyone!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft><FONT color=3D#993399>I posted this to the list =
earlier, but when=20
it arrived in my inbox the entire message was blank.&nbsp; If it didn't =
come in=20
that way for anyone else I apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd =
re-send it=20
just in case. =3D) </FONT></DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft><FONT color=3D#993399><BR>----- Original Message =
-----<BR>From:=20
Kevin &amp; Mara Riley &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:lindo@Radix.Net">lindo@Radix.Net</A>&gt;<BR>Sent: =
Wednesday,=20
December 08, 1999 9:22 AM<BR><BR>&gt; Ugh -- I hate to hear about people =
doing=20
that.&nbsp; We have so little respect<BR>&gt; for our sailing=20
heritage...<BR><BR>This is too true!&nbsp; Anyone in or near =
Philadelphia, who's=20
interested in such<BR>things, might like to know that the beautiful S.S. =
United=20
States is sitting<BR>forlornly at pier 82.<BR>Even though she's been =
stripped of=20
all her fittings, her paint is faded and<BR>she's all but covered in =
rust, she=20
is still one of the most breathtaking<BR>sights I've ever seen.&nbsp; We =
make it=20
a point to drive by the pier and "visit"<BR>whenever we go =
downtown.&nbsp;=20
=3D)<BR>There is an effort in motion to try to have this ship restored =
to her=20
old<BR>glory, please visit Mike Alexander's website at:<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.ss-united-states.com/">http://www.ss-united-states.com=
/</A>=20
.&nbsp; He's got some wonderful pictures, both<BR>before and after, and =
an=20
incredible amount of=20
information.<BR><BR>Cheers!<BR>Kerrie<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:52:19 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 15:12:36 -0500
From: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>
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-Poster: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>



> >  Crafts and skills from Eastern Europe and the Balkans will be featured
> >  at the upcoming Celebration 2000 conference, held at Tompkins Cortland
> >  Community college, May 12,13,14, 2000.
> >

Where is this community college?  State?  City?  I'd like to forward this to a
couple of religious email lists that I'm on.


--
Lola J. Lee
QRC

work  -  llee@qrc.com   http://www.qrc.com/
home  -  lola@his.com   http://www.his.com/~lola/ljl.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:55:20 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:05:23 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Oh, but this time it came through!  How odd!

Nevermind,
MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Kerrie Lyons[SMTP:kerrielyons@tellurian.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 08, 1999 11:40 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
> 
> Allo everyone!
> I posted this to the list earlier, but when it arrived in my inbox the
> entire message was blank.  If it didn't come in that way for anyone else I
> apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd re-send it just in case. =) 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin & Mara Riley < lindo@Radix.Net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM
> 
> > Ugh -- I hate to hear about people doing that.  We have so little
> respect
> > for our sailing heritage...
> 
> This is too true!  Anyone in or near Philadelphia, who's interested in
> such
> things, might like to know that the beautiful S.S. United States is
> sitting
> forlornly at pier 82.
> Even though she's been stripped of all her fittings, her paint is faded
> and
> she's all but covered in rust, she is still one of the most breathtaking
> sights I've ever seen.  We make it a point to drive by the pier and
> "visit"
> whenever we go downtown.  =)
> There is an effort in motion to try to have this ship restored to her old
> glory, please visit Mike Alexander's website at:
> http://www.ss-united-states.com/ .  He's got some wonderful pictures, both
> before and after, and an incredible amount of information.
> 
> Cheers!
> Kerrie
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:56:17 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:04:32 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Kerrie, it's still all blank. :(

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Kerrie Lyons[SMTP:kerrielyons@tellurian.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 08, 1999 11:23 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
> 
> Mabel
> Allo everyone!
> I posted this to the list earlier, but when it arrived in my inbox the
> entire message was blank.  If it didn't come in that way for anyone else I
> apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd re-send it just in case. =) 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:08:42 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: costume business
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 15:36:05 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF4191.F12D3B80
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've been gone, but now I'm back with a new address.

I've been thinking about making my hobby a business and am curious to =
hear from others who have.  I'm mainly looking to hear from people who =
sell to SCA members and reenactors, not those who work in theater.
Are you glad you made the jump to professional?
Do you still enjoy sewing?
Do you sell to friends AND stranger?
Do you prefer one over the other?
Do you sell strictly on-line or strictly at events?
Do you have inventory or do you only sew when ordered?

Andrea

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF4191.F12D3B80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've been gone, but now I'm back with a new=20
address.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've been thinking about making my hobby a business =
and am=20
curious to hear from others who have.&nbsp; I'm mainly looking to hear =
from=20
people who sell to SCA members and reenactors, not those who work in=20
theater.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Are you glad you made the jump to =
professional?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you still enjoy sewing?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you sell to friends AND stranger?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you prefer one over the other?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you sell strictly on-line or strictly at=20
events?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you have inventory or do you only sew when=20
ordered?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF4191.F12D3B80--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:20:59 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: costume business
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:39:25 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Andrea
 
I have sold costumes to both friends and strangers over the years, mostly
for reenacting, and I must say I always put more effort and in and make less
money on my friends, while strangers get exactly what they pay for.  I can
never seem to charge my friends enough money for something I love to do, and
often find it hard to charge them for more than the basic fashion fabric,
and end up eating the cost of lining, boning, trim, new patterns, etc. that
we all know makes up the "bulk" of most period costumes, not to mention the
cost of so many hours put in.  I too, would love to make my sole living
doing this, and may, someday.  I wish you all the good fortune in the world
in your endeavors!
 
Heidi
 
-----Original Message-----  
From: Andrea Gideon [mailto:ahgideon@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 12:36 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: H-COST: costume business


I've been gone, but now I'm back with a new address.
 
I've been thinking about making my hobby a business and am curious to hear
from others who have.  I'm mainly looking to hear from people who sell to
SCA members and reenactors, not those who work in theater.
Are you glad you made the jump to professional?
Do you still enjoy sewing?
Do you sell to friends AND stranger?
Do you prefer one over the other?
Do you sell strictly on-line or strictly at events?
Do you have inventory or do you only sew when ordered?
 
Andrea
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:31:31 1999
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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fwd: Hands-On WOrkshops (fwd)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  > >  Crafts and skills from Eastern Europe and the Balkans will be
featured
>  > >  at the upcoming Celebration 2000 conference, held at Tompkins
Cortland
>  > >  Community college, May 12,13,14, 2000.
>  > >
>  
>  Where is this community college?  State?  City?  I'd like to forward this
to a
>  couple of religious email lists that I'm on.

I believe it's in New York, or thereabouts. The last paragraph mentions
something about that.

Kate

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:39:02 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

There is a section on "Costuming as A Business" on my website at
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm which you may find helpful.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:52:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 12:31:39 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I feel guilty for steering this off topic, but please forgive me.

Kat wrote:

> I do know that red hair has been called that from fairly early in
> history.

Can you be sure? We do know of many nick names in many languages for people
with red hair, but was this the same as the term 'red hair' in the particular
language? (I'm sort of playing devil's advocate, because I don't know one way
or the other.)

> I come from a very red headed family (which is a recessessive
> gene but that didn't seem to make a difference in our family.)

Hair color (unlike eye color) is not controlled by only one gene. The gene for
red hair is not the same as the gene for blonde versus brunette. That's why
you can have a broad range of red hair tones from blondes with just a hint of
red through Raggedy Ann red and auburn to a dark brown with just a hint of red.

> Our family got its name (Russell) from the french for red in early
> medieval times.

There is a widespread misconception that names have or had a meaning. While
many of the words that became did have a meaning, once they are used as a
label for a person they quickly lose their meaning. 'Thomas' meant 'twin' in
Aramaic, but how many do you know that are given that name because they are
one of a set of twins?

Of course, it's possible that 'Russell' did come from a nickname for a red
head, but there are plenty of other possibilities. (For example, it could be
used for the ruddy complexion of someone that regularly worked the field...a
medieval 'red-neck', if you will.)

Sorry about wandering, but names and languages are a hobby. :-}

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:03:44 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Recycling clothing 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed 
	fur, differences in  fabric treatments
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:22:02 -0700 
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

<IMHO, we don't wear upholstery fabric now and they
didn't then.>

I guess one could argue that it is not technically upholstery fabric, but
subject book has several clothing items that were made from bedspreads.  It
doesn't seem much of a stretch to me that if they used bedspreads, drapes
and upholstery (especially all the silk ones) were not so far off.  Maybe
Scarlett's drapery dress wasn't so odd after all.




-----Original Message-----
From: Julie Adams [mailto:savaskan@sd.znet.com]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 11:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was Slub, dyed fur,
differences in fabric treatments



-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)
>who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
>different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
>didn't exist'.

Perhaps she suffers from Black and White book photo syndrome :-)  I believe
there are some descriptions and black and white photos of some very
detailed muli-colored brocades in the Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd. There
are additional descriptions in text. Also there are some examples in Five
Centuries of Italian Textiles, A Selection from the Museo del Tessuto Prato
1300-1800 (No ISBN) organized by Rosalia Bonito Fanelli 1981

One thing to be careful of is popularity and fashion in period, and just
because it was possible, doesn't mean a particular pattern or color
combination was worn as clothing. By the pictoral evidence I have, I would
say that 3 or more colored brocades in Europe became much more popular
after 1600, though there seemed to be a brief fad in the late 15th c Italy.
Early 16th c German costumes are usually single colored or two colored.
When they are two-toned, inevitably one of the colors is black,
white/silver, or orange/gold. Their clothing brocade choices seemed to tend
toward heraldic color mixtures in taste, yet background furniture textiles
are more often multicolored brocades. In the book Textiler Hausrat,
Kleidung un Haustextilien in Nurnberg von 1500-1600 by Zander-Seidel, there
are chapters devoted to house textiles. These were often woven specifically
for various household purposes or decoration and clearly had some popular
patterns and weaves.  IMHO, we don't wear upholstery fabric now and they
didn't then.

In general,  I admit I tend to steer people away from brocades, mostly
because it takes a lot of study, analysis and somewhat of a good eye to
pick out a "period" brocade.  Some of the ones I've seen people pick just
come out badly.  When I was costume director of a Landsknecht re-enacting
group, I always pleaded with people to get swatches before purchasing that
showed the whole pattern. I hate to see people spend time and effort into
something that is just not right. The funny thing is that some very
interesting patterns can be found in period brocades. Some are very modern
geometric looking.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:20:12 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Diderot's Encyclopaedia is going on-line, and the banyan picture and pattern diagram is already up.  Gotta get home and see if I can dig up the URL, however, because the index to date is inadequate.  You can hunt and peck very happily through the images index, but not if you are in a hurry!  Diderot's was fist published in approximately 1766.  Banyans got more tailored towards the 3/4 mark in the century, but for mid-century, I think the Diderot's pattern is good.

Hope 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:32:19 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1670s (was Restoration London)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 13:37:52 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Nicole sweetly said:

	>There you go, I put up more engravings into the 1670s section. 
> Including some hunting scenes, which means not the latest fashion 
> is depicted in them.
> 
Oh these are wonderful.  You are such a treasure, Nicole!  I want to bring
to everyone's notice, too, the neat little notes you've been attaching to
the artwork in your galleries.  It's nice to have someone tell me what I'm
looking at, especially when the material is new to me.

> > is grand!  The current story is set in '75 (and actually in the
> Caribbean,
> > where it's such a pain sifting good material from bad pyrates), but it's
> 
	>It's a safe bet to look at English or French fashion and
extrapolate 
> from there. Plus, what came out to be very true is the following: 
> lower/working class costume is always 'old fashioned' in the sense 
> of 'keeping one's best clothing for many years'. Thus if you describe 
> 1660s clothing for the 1670s, it wouldn't be wrong. Of course it was 
> impossible for the people to be dressed according to the latest 
> fashion. 
At tbe beginning of the book, the heroine has just returned to Jamaica from
Paris, so she'll have some of whatever was the latest thing, but she spends
very little time in that sort of company :)  There are only two occasions
for high fashion: once at the beginning and once at the end. In between,
these hunstmen and milkmaids and so on give me just the cues I was looking
for.  

	>Have you actually read Pepys? 

Some of it, and sometimes he's wonderfully detailed and sometimes
maddeningly the opposite. The next book in the series will be back in
England (though not mainly in the metropolis) so I guess I'll have to give
him another go.


Great work!


> MaggiRos
> 
> http://ren.dm.net
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:35:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:51:55 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Sorry, the Diderot's seems to be restricted now to subscribers.  Alternatively, see this banyan pattern for sale: http://www.longago.com/colonial.html It is appropraite for mid-century.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:40:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 12:45:09 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity Enforcers)])
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

 and some lapdogs were very much indulged, but this
>wasn't the norm. 

I read that lapdogs were very popular, among the non-working classes,
because their body temperature was warmer than that of humans.  I see a lot
of small dogs in Late Medieval portraits, and this seems to bear me out
here.  BTW, look for a web page about Bishon Frise dogs (spelling?) for
many many Medieval portraits with these dogs in them. 


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:40:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 13:15:01 -0800
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Several replies in one post:

>> How about 'admired them enough to try to recreate them'?  I will take
>> the word of a dyer on the possibility/probability of those colours,
>> but I won't believe neon colours are possible with natural dyestuff
>> till then.
>
>I haven't done natural dying since Girl Scout camp but I seem to recall
>making something that came out pretty neon... and the ancient Bruce
>tartan *screams* with neon orange & green.

Then there's 'loud McLeod'. 

* * *

>(All my fathers pinks are white!)

My grandmother's were all pinkish.

>When a batch of natural dyestuffs failed to arrive for a local class I was 
>teaching--we played with the herbs in my garden and the spices in my rack. 
>When the contents of my spice rack produced a most wonderous shade of neon 
>fuschia pink , I too, was convinced that earlier folks must have enjoyed it, 
>too!! 

Turmeric gives a bright yellow, but isn't lightfast. 

* * *

>I have several "color wheel" samples of wool dyed in pre-1600 dyes & 
>mordants. There is a lovely pink dyed with cochineal mordanted with tin ( or 
>dyed in a tin pot). Medieval illuminations (like the Tres Riches Heures) show 
>pink garments next to red ones, so pink was NOT a red that faded, like some 
>have argued. 

Not to disagree with you, but I think both kinds of pink must have been in
use at the same time.  My guess is that the presence of real pink-dyed
garments made the faded-red kind more desirable to the lower classes, who
had to wear the faded stuff anyway till it wore out.  BTW, one can actually
get away with some pinks at Ren. Faire (N.CA) if they look like faded reds
- faded-red-now-pinkish must be period if non-faded-red is.  

* * *

>I think what this whole discussion boils down to is that: 
>1. even when they could get the color, it wasn't necessarily used. 
>Our modern aethetics doesn't match what they would have liked and 
>what they liked changed from year to year (sometimes regulated by the 
>guilds so that even if you liked it, it wouldn't have been 
>available.) Also even if *you* liked it, you wouldn't be caught dead 
>wearing it because we can get away with individuality now in a way 
>that didn't happen in most other period in Europe.

My guess is that embroidererd could get away with a greater range of
colours they liked than clothes wearers.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:41:40 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 12/8/1999 13:54:15 Pacific Standard Time, Hhdunlap@aol.com 
writes:

<< Sorry, the Diderot's seems to be restricted now to subscribers.  
Alternatively, see this banyan pattern for sale: 
http://www.longago.com/colonial.html It is appropraite for mid-century.
 
 Hope >>

Hope, would you mind posting subscription information for the Diderot? Or is 
it something that is associated solely with you ISP provider?

thanks,

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,  and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here, while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:55:41 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity Enforcers)]
	)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:02:45 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

The animals in portraits are often emblematic rather than literal.  Ok, the
dogs could also be pets, I suppose, but they're in the picture to represent
something, I think it's fidelity.  

Charles II, on the other hand, just loved his dogs and they really were
pets, not the working dogs of farms and family homes.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Carolyn Kayta Barrows[SMTP:kayta@slip.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 12:45 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity
> Enforcers)])
> 
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
>  and some lapdogs were very much indulged, but this
> >wasn't the norm. 
> 
> I read that lapdogs were very popular, among the non-working classes,
> because their body temperature was warmer than that of humans.  I see a
> lot
> of small dogs in Late Medieval portraits, and this seems to bear me out
> here.  BTW, look for a web page about Bishon Frise dogs (spelling?) for
> many many Medieval portraits with these dogs in them. 
> 
> 
> Kayta
>      ////.\\\
>     ////-@@\\\
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> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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> 
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 17:43:24 -0500
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>Barnes and Noble lists as available in 1-2 weeks.  $28.00


Well, I'm guessing that was based in it being easily available from Boydell
& Brewer.  I ordered a copy from them over two weeks ago and it hasn't shown
up yet.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 16:43:51 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> 
> Can anyone point me to pictures on the web, or instructions, for a man's
> dressing gown from the mid-1700s?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mara
> 
>  
There is an excellent account of making a banyan in the Uk's costume
society journal can't remember offhand which, but the pattern in cut of
men's clothes is the same one.
I made a copy of it and it works very well

Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 16:50:17 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I'd be careful with Rockinghorse Farm patterns. The patterns seem to be sort 
of period, but the directions are incomplete and obscure. Good luck if you 
use one.

Kathleen Norvell
"How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
-- "Start the Revolution without Me"
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 16:57:39 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

Thanks for the reference, Kerrie!  Are you familiar with the Godzilla -- er, I
mean, the Gazella, whose home port is also Philly?

-- Mara

At 02:40 PM 12/8/99 -0500, you wrote: 

>
> This is too true!  Anyone in or near Philadelphia, who's interested in such
> things, might like to know that the beautiful S.S. United States is sitting
> forlornly at pier 82.
> Even though she's been stripped of all her fittings, her paint is faded and
> she's all but covered in rust, she is still one of the most breathtaking
> sights I've ever seen.  We make it a point to drive by the pier and "visit"
> whenever we go downtown.  =)
> There is an effort in motion to try to have this ship restored to her old
> glory, please visit Mike Alexander's website at:
> <http://www.ss-united-states.com/>http://www.ss-united-states.com/ . 
He's got
> some wonderful pictures, both
> before and after, and an incredible amount of information.
>
> Cheers!
> Kerrie





Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 17:19:05 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/5/99 10:55:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, kdyer@home.com 
writes:

<< My children always
 wear a t-tunic or dress, tights and either boots, the most period
 looking maryjanes I can find, sandals or medieval moccasins.  The latter
 are quite economical because the children can wear them for several
 years.. >>

If you make them somewhat bigger than the child's feet, they can wear them 
OVER the sneakers. A friend of mine did this for her son, who would not part 
with his modern sneakers even fro reenacting. So she made him a pair of 
pampooties (Highland hide shoes) big enough to go over his shoes. The kid 
looked like a cartoon character with big feet, but everyone was happy.

Kathleen Norvell
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
>
>Just a thought, but is the 'problem with pink' more to do with terminology
>rather than wether the colour existed?

Not in the context we were talking about, which was Modern costume
directors not allowing Pink for theatrical reasons, and having it evolve
into "pink is not period".

Julie Adams


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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity Enforcers)]
 	)
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>The animals in portraits are often emblematic rather than literal.  Ok, the
>dogs could also be pets, I suppose, but they're in the picture to represent
>something, I think it's fidelity.
>
>Charles II, on the other hand, just loved his dogs and they really were
>pets, not the working dogs of farms and family homes.

There are a lot of dogs in German woodcuts. And some of them seem to be
pets of poor people, like the campfollowers carrying their little dog and
the other dogs just hanging out with the baggage train. They are shown in
peasant holiday scenes too.  There are quite a few little Lion dogs, maybe
precursors of poodles, tiny dogs with a lion haircut that some people are
trying to recreate now.  There are quite a few dogs shown in feast scenes
too.  Now these were probably hunting dogs for the most part, but that
doen't mean they wouldn't be pets too.  Is this related to costuming? I
dunno, I always considered my Anatolian Shepherd dogs to be great
accessories... especially for Turkish clothes...(but they look more like
pre-16th c mastiffs than the modern "Englis" Mastiffs).

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 18:44:10 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Of course, it's possible that 'Russell' did come from a nickname for a red
> head, but there are plenty of other possibilities. (For example, it could be
> used for the ruddy complexion of someone that regularly worked the field...a
> medieval 'red-neck', if you will.)

There are, in our family records (which go back quite a ways, 
definitely to the medieval times) quotes about the hair of the 
members of the family and its various names for the red hair.

While I can't say anything about others being called "red", I do know 
that in my family, it meant, specifically, red haired. (In fact, the 
family members all seem to have red hair or red undertones. You 
should see our family reunions!)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 20:22:38 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
Date: Thu, 09 Dec 99 02:45:52 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com


Hi,
> Can you be sure? We do know of many nick names in many languages for people
> with red hair, but was this the same as the term 'red hair' in the particular
> language? (I'm sort of playing devil's advocate, because I don't know one way
> or the other.)
    I'm not saying that there's necessarily a connection... but among cat 
circles, the proper term for an orange colored cat is 'Red' (just as a gray 
color is properly termed blue). Interesting coincidence, though.

> > Our family got its name (Russell) from the french for red in early
> > medieval times.
> There is a widespread misconception that names have or had a meaning. While
> many of the words that became did have a meaning, once they are used as a
> label for a person they quickly lose their meaning. 'Thomas' meant 'twin' in
> Aramaic, but how many do you know that are given that name because they are
> one of a set of twins?
    uh... actually that's why my husband's name is Thomas, his mother thought 
it was cute. His brother was named for Stephen Foster, though. However this is 
an unusual situation. Most 'Thomas's are not necessarily a twin!

    -Judy Mitchell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 20:58:50 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 19:12:57 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

        Vielen schoenen Dank!  I was a Dts. major many, many years ago...I
could use the practice though...Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 01:34:48 1999
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-Poster: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>

Andrea, I have been doing costuming as a business for 6 years now.  For
the previous 20 years I had been doing it for free for friends/family
around Halloween or special events.  The first 3 years I reported a
loss, due to: poor pricing, doing favors and purchasing equipment, and
remodeling my basement into a studio.  The past 3 I have reported
income.  Each year is a little better as I become a better business
person.  The most important lesson to learn is while you might be a
fantastic seamstress/tailor, you will only succeed financially if you
learn to be a fantastic business manager also.  This means you need to
seriously look at how long it takes to do something and price it
according to how much you want to make an hour (above and beyond the
costs for supplies).  And stick to it.  NO EXCEPTIONS.  (I don't charge
my family for stuff obviously, but they do not get items sewn as quickly
either)
Before I learned that lesson, while I enjoyed the actual sewing of the
items, I certainly felt under-appreciated and under-paid.  I realized
that if I did not value my work enough to charge a decent price for it,
how could I expect others to?
I would definetly read Margo's information, it is well written and
informative.  Then I suggest you go to the library and check out books
on how to succeed at small business.  While they may not all apply to
your particular circumstance there will be some hard and fast rules that
apply to every business.
And I never do sewing favors for friends.  Don't get me wrong, I love
and value my friends, but once they become a client (paying or not) the
relationship changes somehow.  I have swapped favors with friends, some
kind of fair trade... I made a set of undergarments
(corset/bloomers/chemise), and got my bathroom scrubbed from ceiling to
floor.  We both were thrilled at the outcome.
Now for your questions:
I really still enjoy sewing.
I sell to everyone who is willing to pay a fair price.
I primarily do costuming for Renaissance Events, and a few special needs
clients.
I sew as I'm commissioned.
And am getting geared up for doing somethings online in the future.

Linda
I love it when our renfair ends, I get a life again for a few months and
get caught up on the list!!!!     YAY
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 03:04:00 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:08:17 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

 We do know of many nick names in many languages for people
> > with red hair, but was this the same as the term 'red hair' in the
particular
> > language? (I'm sort of playing devil's advocate, because I don't know
one way
> > or the other.)

...in Australia, a red haired person is often called Blue or Bluey

By the way, anyone noticed the way this posting title is changing...red
hair was pink? Hmm.

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:17:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:36:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
In-Reply-To: <0.6132b77.25802cfb@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Thanks!  That helps.  Has anyone used Rocking Horse Farm patterns?  What's
that web site that has pattern reviews?

Cheers,
Mara


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999 Hhdunlap@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com
> 
> Sorry, the Diderot's seems to be restricted now to subscribers.  Alternatively, see this banyan pattern for sale: http://www.longago.com/colonial.html It is appropraite for mid-century.
> 
> Hope
>  _________________________________________________________________
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> 

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:46:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19991206123101.00a25e00@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Mon, 6 Dec 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:> 
> >I haven't done natural dying since Girl Scout camp but I seem to recall
> >making something that came out pretty neon... and the ancient Bruce
> >tartan *screams* with neon orange & green.
> 
> Then there's 'loud McLeod'. 

Um... are either of these based on actual tartans from before they were
outlawed (following the 1745 uprising), or were these some of the many
that were invented during the Victorian era, when tartans became all the
rage?

'Clan Tartans' are a common misconception -- if you look at the portraits
of Higland nobility from the 17th/18th centuries, you'll often see them
wearing multiple patterns of tartan at once, and in wildly conflicting
patterns (the predecessor of tacky golf clothing, I guess!).  There is one
mention of a particular lord having his attendants dressed in tartan woven
from particular colors, but a sett (pattern) is not mentioned, so this
isn't much different from an English lord clothing his staff in a
particular set of colors for their livery.  There are no mentions of 'Clan
Tartans' before the Victorian era.  And there are very few tartans that
are actually based on pre-1745 patterns.

Martin Martin, I believe, remarks that one could make a good guess at what
area someone came from based on the pattern of their plaid; but that's
different from having clan tartans.  All that means is that weavers in a
particular area tended to turn out patterns of a certain type, and weavers
in the next glen wove patterns that were a little different.

Cheers,
Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:29:56 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:48:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
In-Reply-To: <384F583C.3A02@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Which one from 'Cut of Men's Clothes'?  There's one that is more tailored,
and then the other seems less structured...  can I assume that the
less-structured one is earlier, and the more-tailored one is later?

Mara


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999, Dawn wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> 
> Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> > 
> > Can anyone point me to pictures on the web, or instructions, for a man's
> > dressing gown from the mid-1700s?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Mara
> > 
> >  
> There is an excellent account of making a banyan in the Uk's costume
> society journal can't remember offhand which, but the pattern in cut of
> men's clothes is the same one.
> I made a copy of it and it works very well
> 
> Dawn
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:31:04 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:49:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Thanks for the warning.  Maybe I'd be better off drafting one from Norah
Waugh's book :D

Hey, that's what muslins are for, right?

Mara


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999 Appin1@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Appin1@aol.com
> 
> I'd be careful with Rockinghorse Farm patterns. The patterns seem to be sort 
> of period, but the directions are incomplete and obscure. Good luck if you 
> use one.
> 
> Kathleen Norvell
> "How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
> -- "Start the Revolution without Me"
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:59:39 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



WOW!!!! Someone in the last couple of days posted about velvet available at 
Phoenix Textiles. The url she (?) posted didn't work for me, but I did find 
it and I am astonished! I can't believe these prices!!! I am so mad that I 
read that post today -- the day after their no shipping charges sale!!! 
Anyway, that poster was happy with her order. If anyone else has done 
business with them, would you please post me privately and let me know?

Gail Finke
gaelscot@aol.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:50:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:07:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Hey, folks, 
I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:

http://www.chickpages.com/fashionpassion/ralphie9/index.html

(The profile is all wrong, for one thing, and I could go on, and on, and
on...)

Anyhow, I sent a note to the person inquiring as to her source for a few
of the drawings she used (or thinks she used) for references.  She cites
the following:

>   Those pics were from The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes by Albert
> Racinet.  It is an excellent resource book for all types of period and
> ethnic dress.

Just to satisfy my own curiosity, can anyone tell me when this book was
published?  The drawings look Victorian to me; they might have been lifted
from another source that I'm drawing a blank on at this time.

Cheers,
Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:50:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:08:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Well, what IS the URL, then? (grin)



On Thu, 9 Dec 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> WOW!!!! Someone in the last couple of days posted about velvet available at 
> Phoenix Textiles. The url she (?) posted didn't work for me, but I did find 
> it and I am astonished! I can't believe these prices!!! I am so mad that I 
> read that post today -- the day after their no shipping charges sale!!! 
> Anyway, that poster was happy with her order. If anyone else has done 
> business with them, would you please post me privately and let me know?
> 
> Gail Finke
> gaelscot@aol.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:51:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:08:40 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: the color pink
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I admit, I am completely clueless when it comes to color. I'm sorry that 
there doesn't seem to be an accessible, easily understood resource about what 
colors were popular (and available!) when. It's too bad that theatrical 
decisions get taken as authoritative statements about what was or wasn't done 
when -- but it seems to me that the argument "well, they could have done it, 
so someone must have" is equally specious. Lots of colors are possible today, 
but not used, and we seem to have much more of an "anything goes" attitude 
about color in clothes.

So someone COULD have produced a particular color with plants in the area. 
But how often would that person have been dying fabric, and what other colors 
might he/she have chosen to make? How much cloth did a person dye and how 
much did he buy already dyed or made up? How many colors did a merchant dye a 
year -- lots, or just a few? Would a "typical" person (if there is any such 
thing) have spent a lot of money to get a few expensive and perhaps 
hard-to-dye things, or have gotten more, less expensive things? We see both 
kinds of behavior today.

My point is that color is a complicated issue, and blanket statements just 
won't work. If I were worried about historical accuracy, I would stick to 
extant garments and try to copy them. I do earlier periods where there are no 
extant garments, and even the artwork (illuminations) can't be considered 
accurate depictions of colors. So I don't worry about it, except to steer 
clear of things available only in modern dyes. That's my solution and it 
won't work for everyone. Someday it may not work for me, either!

Gail Finke


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:55:26 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:12:41 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

www.phoenixtextiles.com 

or to reach BOTH of their sites

www.fabric.com

Katrin
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 08:02:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 08:21:22 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

I've bought quite a few things from Phoenix, and am a very satisfied 
customer. Can't beat those prices. But you have to check frequently to see 
what they have, as their stock varies all the time. If you sign up for it, 
they will e-mail you when new fabric arrives.

Kim


At 08:59 AM 12/09/1999 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>WOW!!!! Someone in the last couple of days posted about velvet available at
>Phoenix Textiles. The url she (?) posted didn't work for me, but I did find
>it and I am astonished! I can't believe these prices!!! I am so mad that I
>read that post today -- the day after their no shipping charges sale!!!
>Anyway, that poster was happy with her order. If anyone else has done
>business with them, would you please post me privately and let me know?
>
>Gail Finke
>gaelscot@aol.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

My so (3 1/2) bought himself (his choice with his mad money) a pair of
Godzilla slippers - furry with claws -  that are fairly good interpretations
of the Henrician broad toe shoe with slashes.  The claws come accross as puffs.

mm
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 08:53:54 1999
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

http://www.lib.uchicago.edu/efts/ARTFL/projects/encyc/

is the URL for the on-line Diderot project.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 09:03:26 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I tried http://www.fabric.com and got a DNS error... but the
http://www.phoenixtextiles.com worked for me yesterday... odd.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 10:26:52 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
> attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:

Just a thought.  How do you know that she isn't on this list?  Personally, I
would be very careful before posting a comment like this to a public forum.
We can't educate if someone's feelings are terribly hurt.

FWIW,
Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 10:43:55 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/08/1999 4:56:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Hhdunlap@aol.com writes:

<< http://www.longago.com/colonial.html  >>

Well, all I can say is I hope it makes up better than it looks in the 
illustration. [Why doesn't he have a head???]
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 12:19:41 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 10:27:43 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I've noticed that in Britain red-haired people are sometimes called Ginger.
Red for red hair doesn't seem to be entirely inevitable.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Christopher Ballis[SMTP:stilskin@netspace.net.au]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 09, 1999 1:08 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
> 
>  We do know of many nick names in many languages for people
> > > with red hair, but was this the same as the term 'red hair' in the
> particular
> > > language? (I'm sort of playing devil's advocate, because I don't know
> one way
> > > or the other.)
> 
> ...in Australia, a red haired person is often called Blue or Bluey
> 
> By the way, anyone noticed the way this posting title is changing...red
> hair was pink? Hmm.
> 
> -C.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 12:27:28 1999
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From: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 12:37:38 -0600
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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

This is not my particular time period nor geographic area ( I attempt to do
late tudor ) but, I did not find fault with what this costumer was trying to
do. Up front, she states that the customer wanted something different than
what " correct " Highland attire would have been and states why.  This
costumer also states that this is not " period correct " and it is a "
costume " for fun rather than a reinactment gown.  As long as both the
parties understand what the changes are and why then I do not see a problem
with modifications and liberties.  I myself have a couple of " costumes "
that I would not wear to an SCA event but have a lot of FUN with at parties
and I do not have to worry about my detailed and expensive court gowns being
spoiled.  Like I said---I do NOT know ANYTHING about Highland attire but
felt this person openly admitted that this was not what she would have
called " Period Correct ".

Guinevere
----- Original Message -----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)


>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> > I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
> > attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:
>
> Just a thought.  How do you know that she isn't on this list?  Personally,
I
> would be very careful before posting a comment like this to a public
forum.
> We can't educate if someone's feelings are terribly hurt.
>
> FWIW,
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 13:31:42 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I agree that the posting was unfortunately worded.  The gown in question is
pretty and appears to be very well made.  It also fulfills its basic
purpose, as the maker states on the website:

  >I feel like the dress was a reasonable hybrid of the simplicity of shape
that the Highland gowns had, while incorporating Nancy's wishes for
something more frivolous and feminine, without going over the top
>
>
Her client wanted a pretty and dramatic 18th century inspired gown to wear
to a Highland Games.  she didn't ask for a meticulous historical
reproduction, and there was no reason to make one.  It would have been nice
if the page had been titled " Highland Inpired Gown",  but that's quibbling.
The content of the page makes it quite clear what the goal was.


Now, as to the actual question in the original post, yes,  Racinet was
Victorian (1840's I believe) and, like most costume infomation of the time,
is not a terribly good source.  It is, however, widely available in
libraries and bookstores, which accounts for its use by so many people.  

Margo Anderson


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To: lindo@Radix.Net, h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Speaking of Tartans, My brother-in-law checked on the Dallas tartan a
few years ago at the New Hampshire games, and got a print-out of a blue,
pink, and green regular plaid.  When he got a kilt made this year from
that same Scottish textile manufacturer, it came as a lt. brown based,
irregular plaid.  Since he's a bit wide, and the stronger color stripe
is side to side, it's not very flattering.  Have you heard that there
are clan tartans that are irregular plaids, especially with a paler
cross stripe?  I think the manufacturer goofed.
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston,MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 13:33:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:37:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: posting URLs
To: SCA-Arts list <SCA-ARTS@raven.cc.ukans.edu>,
        SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        Historic Needlework <h-needlework@ansteorra.org>,
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Please, if you are posting a URL (for us lazy people),
can you type the WHOLE address, i.e. "http://..." 
etc?  Thanks, it makes it esier to link to!

Morgaine

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 13:33:21 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991209090058.6917I-100000@saltmine.radix.net> <384FDBCD.9B0FFB17@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 16:54:59 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



To quote>
 > > I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
> > attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:
 > Just a thought.  How do you know that she isn't on this list?  Personally,
I
> would be very careful before posting a comment like this to a public forum.
> We can't educate if someone's feelings are terribly hurt.
  > Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir

I agree , but on the other hand -how refreshing to be directed to a site where
the owner has taken such trouble to explain how things came about; what was
done and why  and all in a non patronising way.

 Top Marks I say.
(Whos bothered about a profile i- its on a dummy with a single light --take a
closer look)
Dave


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:35:51 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Gail Finke <Gaelscot@aol.com> wrote:
>WOW!!!! Someone in the last couple of days posted about velvet available at
>Phoenix Textiles. The url she (?) posted didn't work for me, but I did find
>it and I am astonished! I can't believe these prices!!! I am so mad that I
>read that post today -- the day after their no shipping charges sale!!!
>Anyway, that poster was happy with her order. If anyone else has done
>business with them, would you please post me privately and let me know?

I ordered some "burnt orange hemp cloth", because i was curious about 
hemp cloth and the price was right :-) (it was only $1US per yard)

Then i ordered several other fabrics, all linens at around $1US, or a 
tad more, per yard. My total was around 24 yards of fabric for around 
$26.

Did this all on the web site. Got e-mail confirmation of receipt of 
my order, then a more personal e-mail saying approximately when it 
would be sent, then an e-mail on the day it was shipped via UPS with 
the tracking number. And it arrived when it should have.

This is my only experience, but it was certainly satisfactory. And i 
would consider buying from them again.

Lilinah

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity Enforcers)])
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:31:17 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Kayta wrote:
> I read that lapdogs were very popular, among the non-working classes,
> because their body temperature was warmer than that of humans.  I see a
lot
> of small dogs in Late Medieval portraits, and this seems to bear me out
> here.  BTW, look for a web page about Bishon Frise dogs (spelling?) for
> many many Medieval portraits with these dogs in them.

They weren't called lapdogs for nothing... Remember: most portraits were of
well-to-do to rich people, who had the leisure to care for lap dogs. Common
to poor people had no time for feeding extra mouths and if a dog was kept
for hunting rabbits or guarding the farm it was fed on scraps if they had
any (most farmers did...) or had to fend (in the case of hunting dogs, of
course) for itself.

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 13:38:29 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991207015017.16032I-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New book
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:53:27 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi all,

Robin wrote:
> I don't read Italian, but someone out there may be interested in this new
> book:
>
> Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, Guardaroba medievale:  vesti e societa dal
> 13. al 16. secolo (Bologna:  Il mulino, 1999).
>
> I know nothing about this other than the rather promising title. (I have a
> librarian friend who lets me know about any medieval costume publications
> he happens to spot.)

No bookshop or library on the web has heard yet of this book, but if you get
to know more, please Robin, keep me posted.

Henk

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5B38B8D7EED8D211997F00A0C9E57FB91DB6A4@HP-LH3>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lap dogs 
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:45:35 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Maggi wrote:
> The animals in portraits are often emblematic rather than literal.  Ok,
the
> dogs could also be pets, I suppose, but they're in the picture to
represent
> something, I think it's fidelity.

What came first the fidelity of the loved dog of somebody or the dog as
symbol of fidelity in a painting. Most of the stuff art-hysterians write or
say about medieval or renaissance painting sounds as so much balderdash to
me. I can't number the older A-H's, including B. Berenson, who have fallen
from grace when people started doing real historical research into the lives
and worlds of the painters.
>
> Charles II, on the other hand, just loved his dogs and they really were
> pets, not the working dogs of farms and family homes.

As everybody knows Charles II is way later than the Middle Ages, but
wouldn't his dogs appear in his portraits because he loved them (and gave
them his name) than because they stood for fidelity? Incidentally, working
dogs can also be loved and were.

Henk


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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 02:47 PM 12/9/99 -0500, Janice Dallas wrote:
>
>-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
>Speaking of Tartans, My brother-in-law checked on the Dallas tartan a
>few years ago at the New Hampshire games, and got a print-out of a blue,
>pink, and green regular plaid.  When he got a kilt made this year from
>that same Scottish textile manufacturer, it came as a lt. brown based,
>irregular plaid.  Since he's a bit wide, and the stronger color stripe
>is side to side, it's not very flattering.  Have you heard that there
>are clan tartans that are irregular plaids, especially with a paler
>cross stripe?  I think the manufacturer goofed.
>-- 
>Janice Dallas
>Boston,MA area, USA
>JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
>"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."

Janice,

There are irregular plaids in the "clan tartans" lists, though most of the
patterns are regular. But it does sound like there is a problem. I would let
them know about your bother-in-law's dissatisfaction with the kilt as delivered.

I have my copy of The Scottish Lion catalog, but there is no listing for a
Dallas tartan (does not mean there isn't one, just that they do not carry
it). They are on the web at http://www.scottishlion.com.

I hope you can get a satisfactory replacement from the manufacturer.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 15:02:10 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> Um... are either of these based on actual tartans from before they
> were outlawed (following the 1745 uprising), or were these some of the
> many that were invented during the Victorian era, when tartans became
> all the rage?

Quoted from Scottish Lion (all emphasis mine):
>The tartans represented here have been scanned from actual cloth
> scarves. The colors are representative as different weavers use their
> own eye and judgement to determine what color of light blue is "light"
> etc. and, for the most part, the colors shown here are somewhat
> **subdued**.<snip part about obtaining swatches>
>Modern colors are strong, vivid colors made possible by today's
> chemical dyes.
> **Ancient or old colors duplicate the shades produced by weavers in
>the old days when dyes were made from vegetables, herbs and berries.** 
> Weathered colors or reproduction colors or muted colors approximate
> the appearance of tartan cloth dyed with the old organic dyes and then
> faded by years of highland weather.
>                     Bruce Ancient

You can't see it as well in the photo which is very muted but my dh has
a tie of the Ancient Bruce and it's NEON... and every other tartan I've
seen noted as Ancient Bruce is JUST as neon.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 14:56:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 21:34:19 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

No ther is only one on page 83 xxx111 dated 1750.
They are built like the coats of the period and can be rather elaborate

Dawn
> Which one from 'Cut of Men's Clothes'?  There's one that is more tailored,
> and then the other seems less structured...  can I assume that the
> less-structured one is earlier, and the more-tailored one is later?
> 
> Mara
> 
> On Wed, 8 Dec 1999, Dawn wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > >
> > There is an excellent account of making a banyan in the Uk's costume
> > society journal can't remember offhand which, but the pattern in cut of
> > men's clothes is the same one.
> > I made a copy of it and it works very well
> >
> > Dawn
> >
> >

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 14:58:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 21:30:12 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> 
> On Mon, 6 Dec 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:>
> > >I haven't done natural dying since Girl Scout camp but I seem to recall
> > >making something that came out pretty neon... and the ancient Bruce
> > >tartan *screams* with neon orange & green.
> >
> > Then there's 'loud McLeod'.
> 
> Um... are either of these based on actual tartans from before they were
> outlawed (following the 1745 uprising), or were these some of the many
> that were invented during the Victorian era, when tartans became all the
> rage?
> 
> 'Clan Tartans' are a common misconception -- if you look at the portraits
> of Higland nobility from the 17th/18th centuries, you'll often see them
> wearing multiple patterns of tartan at once, and in wildly conflicting
> patterns (the predecessor of tacky golf clothing, I guess!).  There is one
> mention of a particular lord having his attendants dressed in tartan woven
> from particular colors, but a sett (pattern) is not mentioned, so this
> isn't much different from an English lord clothing his staff in a
> particular set of colors for their livery.  There are no mentions of 'Clan
> Tartans' before the Victorian era.  And there are very few tartans that
> are actually based on pre-1745 patterns.
> 
> Martin Martin, I believe, remarks that one could make a good guess at what
> area someone came from based on the pattern of their plaid; but that's
> different from having clan tartans.  All that means is that weavers in a
> particular area tended to turn out patterns of a certain type, and weavers
> in the next glen wove patterns that were a little different.
> 
> Cheers,
> Mara
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
I agree. My society re-enactes the Jacobite rebellion in the Uk.
It is now recognised that the 'tartans' are local weaves and dyes just
as in most countries. these just happen to be of stripes and checks
which were popular 18thc fabric designs anyway, Tartans as we know them
are a victorian idea.
Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 15:50:37 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

I have also worked with a company called Fabrics Unlimited.  They have very 
nice fabric and good service.  Their url is:  http://www.fabricsunlimited.net/
They are out of Texas.  They have sales through out the year, sometimes the 
same days as Phoenix Textiles.  They have a variety of fabrics and all that I 
have ordered from them have been good quaility fabric.  I have been nothing 
but pleased with them.
They also take credit cards.  Not to tempt anyone further to spend money.  LOL
Kelly 
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 15:55:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 14:37:54 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: if they'd had it they'd have used it???
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

If they'd had soap they'd have used it.  Well, they did have soap, but they
don't seem to have used it for keeping their hands clean.  Until the germ
theory was firmly established, the practice of using of soap on hands
wasn't as common as it is today (to say the least).  

The Moslems traditionally use only their right hand for dealing with food
at meals, because their left hand is used for dealing with the other end of
the digestion process.  

Childbed fever was still prevalent in the 1800's because doctors didn't
wash their hands between the dissecting room and the delivery room.  Dr.
Semmelweiss was in disagreement with his learned colleagues for suggesting
a connexion between one and the other.  His students complained about
having to do the washing he insisted on, till the death statistics began to
weigh in favour of his assertion.  I think this was in the 1880's, but I'm
not sure.

If they'd had libidos they'd have used them.  This is probably true for
men, but hardly true for most women thru most of history.  (I just watched
'Dangerous Beauty' again.) 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 15:56:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 14:37:47 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity
  Enforcers)])
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>The animals in portraits are often emblematic rather than literal.  Ok, the
>dogs could also be pets, I suppose, but they're in the picture to represent
>something, I think it's fidelity. 

The dogs portrayed in the pictures on that web page don't look like any
working breed I ever saw.  And they all seem to be the same breed (whatever
that is), and small enough to fit on a lap.  Makes me wonder.  OTOH, you
might go to the web site (sorry, no url to give you) to see if they all
look emblematic to you.  Having been there, I think they look like pets. 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 17:06:43 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Did you note what it was from the spice rack that produced the neon pink?  Sounds like fun.  The neon pink shows up in so many old paintings, that I'm convinced they had it too.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 17:18:59 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/09/1999 2:53:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lilinah@grin.net writes:

<< I ordered some "burnt orange hemp cloth", because i was curious about 
 hemp cloth and the price was right :-) >>

Did that also come in Panama Red? Alcopoco Gold? Don't get arrested burning a 
piece to see if it's natural! 

Seriously...what WAS it like and did you use it for anything historic? 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 18:12:46 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #843
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 12/9/99 10:24:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com writes:

<< From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
 Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:36:27 -0500 (EST)
 Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
 
 - -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
 
 Thanks!  That helps.  Has anyone used Rocking Horse Farm patterns?  What's
 that web site that has pattern reviews?
 
 Cheers,
 Mara >>

I can't speak for any of their patterns other than the Houppeland.  It sucks. 
 There is not *nearly* enough fabric in the body of the garment and the 
sleeves are horribly wrong.  Actually, the pattern I have .... if you cut the 
sleeve pieces exactly to pattern, they don't fit together.  The collar also 
doesn't roll right.  

All in all, one of the worst patterns I've worked with.  It had all the 
reputed problems I've seen for Period Patterns and didn't even have Period 
Patterns' decent documentation to offset the pain.

~Morghana
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 18:39:57 1999
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Subject: H-COST:Shopping in t Thailand and India?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

My brother is  traveling in Thailand, and may be going to India.  Naturally,
I want him to bring me fabric.  Can anyone advise me:

where the best places to shop for fabric are?

What would be a reasonable price to pay for changable Thai silk?

What would be a reasonable price for a metallic embroidered silk sari?

And, finally, did Victorian ladies ever actually make ball gowns out of
those saris, or have I seen too many productions of "The King And I?"

Thanks,

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 18:50:54 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

I'd have to echo Heidi's comments on sewing for friends -- I always feel
bad charging them -- but I also share Linda's feelings that it can be
awkward to sew for friends, since the relationship takes a strange
flavor.  Can't explain it exactly....

Now to answer your questions:

1. Are you glad you made the jump to professional?

Well, I still have a hard time calling myself "professional," since I do
not have a degree in costume or fashion.  I learned everything from my
amazing mother, who learned from her grandmother.  What she doesn't know
isn't worth knowing!  She is a fabulous seamstress.  But, yes,
technically I am a pro, since I sell my skills and make everything to a
certain standard.  And I have thoroughly enjoyed sewing for women all
over the world.

2. Do you still enjoy sewing?

Yes and no.  Some weeks I go through strange fits of wanting to get as
far away from my machine as possible.  That's when I put all the sewing
out of sight for a day and so something completely different.  But then
the "itch" hits again, and I am back at it.

3. Do you sell to friends AND stranger?

Mostly to strangers, but I still sew for friends.

4. Do you prefer one over the other?

Not really.

5. Do you sell strictly on-line or strictly at events?

95% of my business comes through the website, and I don't do events, so
the rest of the orders are word of mouth or through my print catalogue.

6. Do you have inventory or do you only sew when ordered?

Sew when ordered -- definitely!

This is a fun and rewarding hobby/business.  Jump on in!

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:09:59 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
>

>
>This is a fun and rewarding hobby/business.  Jump on in!
>

Jennie, I just have to ask the vulgar question here:  Do you actually make a
living at costuming?  Or is it extra money for your household?

I ask because a couple of years ago, I asked the list if anyone on it was
making an actual, full time, pay the rent and feed the children living at
costuming, outside of theatrical, film, or teaching costume.  No one was,
out of the 700+ members.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:11:52 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity
  Enforcers)])
In-Reply-To: <00d401bf427f$3e11d8a0$10e9f1c3@henk>
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

At 08:31 PM 12/9/99 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>Common
>to poor people had no time for feeding extra mouths and if a dog was kept
>for hunting rabbits or guarding the farm it was fed on scraps if they had
>any (most farmers did...) or had to fend (in the case of hunting dogs, of
>course) for itself.
>
>Henk

And remember that not all small dogs are lap dogs. The terrier breeds
developed specifically as ratters, rabbit dogs and badger dogs. They are
small but also served a farm purpose.

Julie Adams

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:29:21 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

Margo wrote: "Jennie, I just have to ask the vulgar question here:  Do
you actually make
a living at costuming?  Or is it extra money for your household?"

LOL!  I should have specified that in my first response.  No, I do not
"make a living" at sewing.  I am a stay-at-home mom, and my kids are my
first "job."  I just love to sew, and this adds some "padding" to the
family coffer.  ;-)  That's why I often call it a "hobby-business."

Cheers,
Jennie
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:29:25 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003001bf41bb$dd308ea0$9656f4d1@pavilion> <3850510D.B483CB28@rica.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I'd have to echo Heidi's comments on sewing for friends -- I always feel
> bad charging them -- but I also share Linda's feelings that it can be
> awkward to sew for friends, since the relationship takes a strange
> flavor.  Can't explain it exactly....

Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
Has anyone else tried this?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:53:50 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: costume business
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 18:13:29 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
Has anyone else tried this?

Heather

I must say that none of my friends sew, nor are they willing to undertake
something like a period costume, even the simplest.  I rather enjoy the
challenge and the opportunity to make something new, so if fits with my time
schedule and they are willing to pay for the majority or all of the
materials, then I'll take it on.  Only by doing this do I become better with
each costume I make. I unfortunately won't spend the time or $$$ to just
spontaneously make a ballgown or a frock coat(fabriholic that I am), if I
don't have an event to sew one for, so my friends keep me busy in between
the "real customers".

I did have one friend who wanted an enormous squirrel's tail for a Rocky
costume.  She bought the fur, she drew and cut out the tail, I sewed it
together and she stuffed it.  Then we both rigged (and I do mean rigged) it
to her person.  Now that she knows how easy those things are, and is less
daunted by "costuming" by doing something simple, she is more willing to do
some of the non-sewing work on more complicated costumes.

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 6:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I'd have to echo Heidi's comments on sewing for friends -- I always feel
> bad charging them -- but I also share Linda's feelings that it can be
> awkward to sew for friends, since the relationship takes a strange
> flavor.  Can't explain it exactly....

Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
Has anyone else tried this?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:02:35 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: costume business
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 18:22:41 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Hi again Heather,

I also want to say that novice though you may be, if you're on this list,
your costuming standards are likely higher than that of your non-sewing
friends, and if you are refraining from making them costumes because you
think you aren't good enough yet, rethink it! I look back on my first
"professional sale" (sale to a stranger) and he was so pleased with a jerkin
that I made for him that I'd never let out of my sewing room now!

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 6:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I'd have to echo Heidi's comments on sewing for friends -- I always feel
> bad charging them -- but I also share Linda's feelings that it can be
> awkward to sew for friends, since the relationship takes a strange
> flavor.  Can't explain it exactly....

Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
Has anyone else tried this?

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:08:32 1999
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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
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References: <003001bf41bb$dd308ea0$9656f4d1@pavilion> <3850510D.B483CB28@rica.net> <001401bf42b8$4cea4360$0101a8c0@f1>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

<<Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people
ask if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to
help them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on
it. Has anyone else tried this?

I've tried this with friends, too.  None of my friends took me up on the
offer, either.  Funny, that!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:30:43 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 18:45:27 -0800
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be of interest
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    No one's mentioned that this book is out, so I will:
ISBN 1872501893 : $150.00 -- v.1.  LC Style Call#: DA332.I584 1998
    The Inventory of King Henry VIII : Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and
British Library MS Harley 1419.  London : Harvey Miller for the Society of
Antiquaries of London, c1998-    .
v. : ill. ; 29 cm. [Note: v.1 is NOT ill. and is xxviii, 511 p. of text]
(Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London,
0953-7163 ; no. 96)  CONTENTS:  v.1.  The transcript / ed. by David Starkey
; transcribed by Philip Ward (Asst. Ed.) and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard.
1. Henry VIII, King of England, 1491-1547.  2.  Great
Britain--History--Henry VIII, 1509-1547.  3.  Inventories of decedents'
estates--England--London.  4.  Manuscripts, English--England--London.  I.
Starkey, David.  II.  Society of Antiquaries of London.  Manuscript.  129.
III.  British Library.  Manuscript.  Harley 1419.  
        I found the listings alone incredible!  For those of you who are on
more than one of the lists to which I sent it, my apologies.-- Carol / Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:34:29 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Lucky Chicago
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:03:36 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

In the December 3, Wall Street Journal, is an announcement for the
'Renaissance Portrait' exhibit, at the Art Institute of Chicago, on
December 15.  Raphael's 'Veiled Lady' will be exhibited.  As I recall in
the Medieval Miscellanea Chemise pattern, they site this portrait as a
possible example of a drawstring neck type chemise.  I'm not buying it
myself, but it is a beautiful portrait and I am jealous of any of you who
can attend.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:48:26 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

><< I ordered some "burnt orange hemp cloth", because i was curious about
> hemp cloth and the price was right :-) >>


I got some too and am still thinking about what to do with it.  It seems to
be a rather open weave.  Have you washed it yet?  How did it take it, if so?
Dye?

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 22:16:50 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be of interest
In-Reply-To: <E11wG7f-0001pl-00@mongoose.slip.net>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 9 Dec 1999, Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:

>     No one's mentioned that this book is out, so I will:
> ISBN 1872501893 : $150.00 -- v.1.  LC Style Call#: DA332.I584 1998
>     The Inventory of King Henry VIII : Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and
> British Library MS Harley 1419.  London : Harvey Miller for the Society of
> Antiquaries of London, c1998-    .
> v. : ill. ; 29 cm. [Note: v.1 is NOT ill. and is xxviii, 511 p. of text]
> (Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London,
> 0953-7163 ; no. 96)  CONTENTS:  v.1.  The transcript / ed. by David Starkey
> ; transcribed by Philip Ward (Asst. Ed.) and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard.

Actually, this did come up on the list once before. Drea and I both picked
up copies at Kalamazoo in May. (They had two display copies there, and we
grabbed them at a significant discount on the last day. Never could have
managed it otherwise.) 

Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going for
$200, or $160 with conference discount. And conference discount is usually
as good as you can possibly find for these things. But I may be wrong, and
I don't have the catalog at hand to check.

I look forward to seeing volume 2.

--Robin


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <E540CD75BA03D311927F0008C7917A4C660388@NTXCITY>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:10:51 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> Hi again Heather,
>
> I also want to say that novice though you may be, if you're on this list,
> your costuming standards are likely higher than that of your non-sewing
> friends, and if you are refraining from making them costumes because you
> think you aren't good enough yet, rethink it! I look back on my first
> "professional sale" (sale to a stranger) and he was so pleased with a
jerkin
> that I made for him that I'd never let out of my sewing room now!
>
> Heidi

Thanks for your vote of confidence, Heidi, but, by joining this list, I'm
finding out how much I never knew I never knew (sounds like Pocahontas,
huh?). The good note is that I'm really enjoying this list!

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Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

I bought the burnt orange hemp too.  I cut off a couple of yards to use
under my cutwork Thanksgiving tablecloth, then washed it in hot water with
some other clothes.  I did not notice any shrinkage (I was sort of hoping)
and the color seems to have stayed exactly the same, or a bit softer.  The
color is a sort of red orange/copper color, and really one of my favorites.
I'm not sure what I'm going to use it for because of its open weave which
makes it a bit light for most outer garb here in AnTir.  It will make lovely
under tunics though, and I have enough to line the inside of a pavilion if I
want to! :-)

Reference Phoenix textiles.  I've ordered five or six times from them now,
and been very happy with their service and prices.  The products are as
advertised, my only problem is that they aren't necessarily what I expected.
The blue 100% wool they had for $1.95 was the greatest bargain I've ever
gotten, it washed down to a lovely cobalt with a soft fuzzy nap.

This place is a real find, and I'll certainly buy more as they come up with
stuff.

They are very responsive to customer feedback, so let's all whine about
needing plain colored wools and silk! :-)

Regina

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Megan McHugh
> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 7:09 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
> ><< I ordered some "burnt orange hemp cloth", because I was curious about
> > hemp cloth and the price was right :-) >>
>
>
> I got some too and am still thinking about what to do with it.
> It seems to
> be a rather open weave.  Have you washed it yet?  How did it take
> it, if so?
> Dye?
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 21:50:48 1999
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From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>


One other source for a Banyan.  Ms. Beth Gilgun wrote a article for here
column "Tidings From the 18th Century".  The article orginally appeared
in the July/August 1993 issue of Muzzleloader.  I believe that Ms.
Gilgun did included in her book of the same name.  

David S Mallinak
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 22:12:40 1999
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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

You wrote:
>Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
>if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
>them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
>Has anyone else tried this?

Yes, I frequently make that offer.  The most interesting time I had was when
a trio of SCA "stick jock" types took me up on it.  We had a fun 36 hours of
straight sewing, and I'm pretty sure none of them has ever done it again,
but they now appreciate what is made for them in a way no-one who has never
made their own clothes ever could. 

mm
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 22:30:03 1999
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:

> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>     No one's mentioned that this book is out, so I will:
> ISBN 1872501893 : $150.00 -- v.1.  LC Style Call#: DA332.I584 1998
>     The Inventory of King Henry VIII : Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and
> British Library MS Harley 1419.  London : Harvey Miller for the Society of
> Antiquaries of London, c1998-    .
> v. : ill. ; 29 cm. [Note: v.1 is NOT ill. and is xxviii, 511 p. of text]
> (Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London,
> 0953-7163 ; no. 96)  CONTENTS:  v.1.  The transcript / ed. by David Starkey
> ; transcribed by Philip Ward (Asst. Ed.) and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard.
> 1. Henry VIII, King of England, 1491-1547.  2.  Great
> Britain--History--Henry VIII, 1509-1547.  3.  Inventories of decedents'
> estates--England--London.  4.  Manuscripts, English--England--London.  I.
> Starkey, David.  II.  Society of Antiquaries of London.  Manuscript.  129.
> III.  British Library.  Manuscript.  Harley 1419.
>         I found the listings alone incredible!  For those of you who are on
> more than one of the lists to which I sent it, my apologies.-- Carol / Gra/inne

Someone mentioned this on h-costume awhile back.  It is listed on the UK amazon.com
site, but not the American one as far as I can tell.  It _is_ on the American
Barnes & Noble web site.

But the transcript mentioned is Volume I.  Are the other volumes even published
yet?

Fran

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 22:48:42 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going for
> $200, or $160 with conference discount.
>
> --Robin

  It surprised me too.  I had Borders pull it up on their computer about
three  months ago and it listed for $180. They weren't planning on keeping
it in stock at the stores because of the cost; special item orders only.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 23:00:42 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

I'm still looking for my notes from my class, with all the little samples 
attached--so I can tell you all what it was I used to produce that nifty 
neon/fuschia  pink--and I actually have seen similar shades  in various 
medieval, as well later , 16th century paintings:)
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 23:05:55 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Acapulco
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 00:24:30 -0500
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Hello Everyone,

I've recently learned that I'm going to be taking a trip to Acapulco in 
February.  As all the literature on the web seems geared towards the 
sun-worshipping type of person (which I'm not), I thought I'd ask you 
folks for advice.

Has anyone been there?  Do you have any advice about activities, places 
to see, items to shop for?  Obviously I'm interested in anything having 
to do with fabric :) but I'd also be interested in whatever local 
handcrafts may be available.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 23:38:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 01:05:20 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be of interest
In-Reply-To: <015501bf42ce$d641dcc0$8c52fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


Me:
> > Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going for
> > $200, or $160 with conference discount.

Michelle:
>   It surprised me too.  I had Borders pull it up on their computer about
> three  months ago and it listed for $180. They weren't planning on keeping
> it in stock at the stores because of the cost; special item orders only.

Perhaps the book (coming from a British publisher) is priced in pounds,
and American retailers are basing their prices on different exchange rates
from different times. I haven't kept track of currency exchange lately, so
I don't know if the rate was significantly different last May compared to
now.

To answer Fran: Just Volume 1 is out. That's the transcript of the
inventories themselves.  Volumes 2 and 3 will be commentary, including
historical context, analyses of specific categories of objects by various
scholars, and plates (both b/w and color). At least that's what Volume 1
promises.

--Robin


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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991210005759.11361A-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be of interest
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 01:16:10 -0500
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>



>
> -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>
>
> Me:
> > > Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going
for
> > > $200, or $160 with conference discount.
>
> Michelle:
> >   It surprised me too.  I had Borders pull it up on their computer about
> > three  months ago and it listed for $180. They weren't planning on
keeping
> > it in stock at the stores because of the cost; special item orders only.
>
> Perhaps the book (coming from a British publisher) is priced in pounds,
> and American retailers are basing their prices on different exchange rates
> from different times. I haven't kept track of currency exchange lately, so
> I don't know if the rate was significantly different last May compared to

When I got mine from a UK dealer a year or so back, I paid $125.00 US
dollars plus shipping. It's actually a used one, but I've yet to find
anything that would make me think the previous owner even opened the book.
The spine isn't cracked and it has the original dust jacket in excellent
shape.

~Kyna

Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
http://GranndGarb.com
info@granndgarb.com
ICQ#12859312


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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Greetings!

I've offered, and the offer has been taken up by friends.  It's loads of
fun!

I've only one instance where I've offered to help (and to work with the gal
to teach her) where I've felt completely taken advantage of.  Hasn't
happened since.

Gia/Giacinta

>-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
>
><<Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people
>ask if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to
>help them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up
on
>it. Has anyone else tried this?
>
>I've tried this with friends, too.  None of my friends took me up on the
>offer, either.  Funny, that!
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be
  of interest
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991209221003.10137A-100000@shell.nightowl.ne
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:16 PM 12/09/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Actually, this did come up on the list once before. Drea and I both picked
>up copies at Kalamazoo in May. (They had two display copies there, and we
>grabbed them at a significant discount on the last day. Never could have
>managed it otherwise.) 
           My apologies.  I missed that.
>Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going for
>$200, or $160 with conference discount. And conference discount is usually
>as good as you can possibly find for these things. But I may be wrong, and
>I don't have the catalog at hand to check.
           It may be that the University Library, having gotten a standing
order for the entire set, and possibly having ordered it before
publication, got a discount that the public would not have.  I note that is
was originally listed at $225.00 for v.1.
>I look forward to seeing volume 2.
           According to Advanced Book Exchange, v.2-3 were also published
in 1998.  The ISBNs for them are:  v.2:  1872501944X  and v.3:  1872501990.
 They were listed with a seller from the UK at 150Lbs UK or ca.
$2andsomething US.  All I can say is that I had v.1 in hand to catalog, but
no further volumes at this time. I, too, will be waiting for the others. --
Carol

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:38:19 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I have been making costumes for a living for over 10 years as I live in
London  on my own I have to work extremely hard at it to be able to pay
the exorbitant living charges here. I have made for museums, films,
theatre, private collectors, brides, grooms and re-enactors. I was doing
it before I became a re-enactor and this just expanded my market.
I don't generally sew for friends anymore as the only times I have been
shot in the foot was for friends. I have a very strict business way of
working and very tight terms and conditons which are vital.

I don't do much re-enactment work  and even if I display at shows rarely
sell as I am much too expensive having to do this for a living rather
than a secondary living means my prices have to be higher. But I am
lucky in that I have a very good name over here and people save up to
have one of my outfits.

The only person who gets freebies is my other half as I experiment with
men's styles on him.

I have just started selling over the web and have had an excellent
response so far which means I don't have to advertise in magazines as
much. this should save me a fortune. Although web culture is still new
over here so I will still have to do some otf that as well.

My advice is to be varied and flexible in what you do 
Have strict controls on the value of YOUR time and stick to them
Have good terms and conditions 
Learn to say no to a job if it's not right for you (this is the hardest
one of all)

I do have the girls from my group over to sew as I made a decision when
I started to run the 18thc group that they couldn't afford me and I
couldn't charge them to have kit made, but as non of them  sewed I would
rather teach them properly and keep the group at a high dress standard
rather than letting them go and get cheap stuff elsewhere.
This has worked very well and not one of them is going to go off and
make for anyone else

Dawn   
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:38:36 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST:Helping friends to make costumes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> <<Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of
> people ask if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be
> very glad to help them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has
> ever taken me up on it. Has anyone else tried this?
> 
> I've tried this with friends, too.  None of my friends took me up on
> the offer, either.  Funny, that!

I do this all the time (so much that I'm pushed for time to make 
costumes for *me*).  Some of them have gone from strength to 
strength and started making costumes without my help (occasional 
phon-calls to check the next step not withstanding....<g>) others 
turn up when they want a new costume so we can work at it 
together, others are happy to hold things, hand me things and do 
the hand finishing (which I *hate* anyway) but won't attempt the 
"making" part.

I can usually tellt he ones who are going to go on to 
unaccompanied costuming by the way they champ at the bit to go 
out and get their own sewing machines.

My "best-student" made himself a velvet doublet (with my help) as 
his irst project and followed it up by making his wife a boned 
bodice and matching skirt  with very lottle help at all.  I got a 
delighted message from his wife shortly after that.  She'd been 
away on a daytrrip with her mother and brother and got back to find 
he'd made a copy of her favourite denim skirt - she'd always said it 
was a few inches shorter than she liked, so he'd bought the fabric 
and made a copy of it with the extra few inches of length.



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 07:09:44 1999
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From: "Ulrike Mehringer" <ulrike.mehringer@ub.uni-tuebingen.de>
Organization: UB Tuebingen
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:28:36 +0200
Subject: Re: H-COST: Manuscript books (was Re; Pink)
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-Poster: "Ulrike Mehringer" <ulrike.mehringer@ub.uni-tuebingen.de>

> I have looked and looked and can't find the Romance of
> Alexander or the Manesse Codex.  Which leads me to believe that the
> books are titled differently.  I would so love some titles or your
> book list or something along those lines.  Can you do this?
> 
> Merouda

The Codex Manesse is also known as
"Heidelberger Liederhandschrift" or
"Manessische Liederhandschrift" or
"Manessesche Liederhandschrift".
You may try to search the LOC catalogue
http://www.loc.gov/catalog/

Ulrike
=================================================================
Ulrike Mehringer

UNIVERSITAETSBIBLIOTHEK TUEBINGEN
Postfach 2620           Tel.:+49 7071 / 29-77859 
72016 Tuebingen         Fax :+49 7071 / 29-3123

http://www.uni-tuebingen.de/ub
=================================================================
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


>     No one's mentioned that this book is out, so I will:
> ISBN 1872501893 : $150.00 -- v.1.  LC Style Call#: DA332.I584 1998
>     The Inventory of King Henry VIII : Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and
> British Library MS Harley 1419.  London : Harvey Miller for the Society of
> Antiquaries of London, c1998-    .
> v. : ill. ; 29 cm. [Note: v.1 is NOT ill. and is xxviii, 511 p. of text]
> (Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London,
> 0953-7163 ; no. 96)  CONTENTS:  v.1.  The transcript / ed. by David Starkey
> ; transcribed by Philip Ward (Asst. Ed.) and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard.
> 1. Henry VIII, King of England, 1491-1547.  2.  Great
> Britain--History--Henry VIII, 1509-1547.  3.  Inventories of decedents'
> estates--England--London.  4.  Manuscripts, English--England--London.  I.
> Starkey, David.  II.  Society of Antiquaries of London.  Manuscript.  129.
> III.  British Library.  Manuscript.  Harley 1419.  
>         I found the listings alone incredible!  For those of you who are on
> more than one of the lists to which I sent it, my apologies.-- Carol / Gra/inne

I have this book and it's wonderful good fun. I just wish that volume 
2 and 3 were out as they explain what is in volume 1 and were 
supposed to have more clothing information in them. They were 
supposed to be out but were put off. I believe it is volume 3 which 
Janet Arnold had a part in.

Hopefully they will get the last 2 volumes out eventually.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:00:22 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 09:17:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Can anyone point me to a resource that discusses in fair detail how
violations of sumptuary laws were dealt with?  I have just picked up bits
and pieces that while the laws were in place they were basically ignored.
Any help would be appreciated.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:19:35 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>, <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: Fw: taffeta?
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

Can any one answer this question?
Andrea\

> Do you have any idea if taffeta is a period fabric (for mid-1400s?)
>
> Hope the moving and garbing is going well!
>
> Brighid née Chris
>
> Chris Harrison, Sr. Writer/Editor
> Office of Public Affairs
> The Catholic University of America
> www.cua.edu
> e-mail: harrisoc@cua.edu
> 202/319-6976 (direct)
> 202/319-5600 (main)
> 202/319-4440 (fax)
>
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:41:19 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > Do you have any idea if taffeta is a period fabric (for mid-1400s?)

I would say yes.  It was sometimes known as shot silk.  Hmmm, I should
say that changeable taffeta (aka shot silk) was period.  It is a simple
plain weave, using one color for the warp and one color for the weft.
Now, I don't have any documentation at my fingertips or even at arms
length, but it seems to me, in my memory bank, that this is so.

Merouda/Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:43:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 09:00:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: taffeta?
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Well, you have to define taffeta - my research (none
of which I have at hand, sorry) has turned up a thick,
silk based, warp-faced weave known as taffety and
tassety as early as the 12th century.  If you consider
taffeta to be a warp-faced rep weave (plain/tabby
weave with the lengthwise threads much closer together
than the crosswise threads), then yes, it was
available in the 14th century.

If, however, you're thinking about the plastic stuff
labled "taffeta" in the fabric store, that may be
another story.  It is both thinner and stiffer than
the historical equivalent would have been.  A better
approximation of historical taffeta *might* be
bengaline or drapery moire.  Anyone else have thoughts
on the matter?

Briony

--- Andrea Gideon <ahgideon@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
> 
> Can any one answer this question?
> Andrea\
> 
> > Do you have any idea if taffeta is a period fabric
> (for mid-1400s?)
> >
> > Hope the moving and garbing is going well!
> >
> > Brighid née Chris
> >
> > Chris Harrison, Sr. Writer/Editor
> > Office of Public Affairs
> > The Catholic University of America
> > www.cua.edu
> > e-mail: harrisoc@cua.edu
> > 202/319-6976 (direct)
> > 202/319-5600 (main)
> > 202/319-4440 (fax)
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:54:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:19:06 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
In-Reply-To: <002001bf42d8$f45f03e0$d946cfcf@gia-g>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> I've offered, and the offer has been taken up by friends.  It's loads of
> fun!
> 
> I've only one instance where I've offered to help (and to work with the gal
> to teach her) where I've felt completely taken advantage of.  Hasn't
> happened since.

I, too, have offered to help/teach, and had that offer taken up, with
great success. Jay never knew he could sew so well!  But I have also been
taken advantage of ("Can you help with a velvet cloak?" turned into
"Here's 4 yards of crushed stretch panne, can you have it done in a
week?"), which is why *I'm* particularly interested in this conversation,
as I'm thinking of starting a business, too.

Emma 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 11:45:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:59:06 -0600
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: New book
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991207015017.16032I-100000@shell.nightowl.net> <00d701bf427f$4b104320$10e9f1c3@henk>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Henk 't Jong - tScapreel wrote:

> Robin wrote:
> > I don't read Italian, but someone out there may be interested in this new
> > book:
> >
> > Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, Guardaroba medievale:  vesti e societa dal
> > 13. al 16. secolo (Bologna:  Il mulino, 1999).
> >
> No bookshop or library on the web has heard yet of this book, but if you get
> to know more, please Robin, keep me posted.

The publisher's web page is http://www.mulino.it and it appears that they accept
online orders.

--Charlene

--
The real art of conversation is not only to say the right thing in the right
place, but also to leave unsaid the wrong thing at the tempting moment.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 12:51:16 1999
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> week?"), which is why *I'm* particularly interested in this conversation,
> as I'm thinking of starting a business, too.

How do most of you bill (or are thinking of billing)?  Is it hourly, by the
piece, combinations? Do you give estimates or set a firm price up front? Are
expenses (fabric, trim,...) included in the price or are they extra?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 12:54:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:12:10 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

That's right.  About mid-century, the banyan might have had loose pleats starting at the waist, but later in the century,they were much more form-fitting and the pleats might have been stitched in place. 

Hope
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: costume business
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:15:15 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Heather,

I must highly recommend Margo Anderson's site with a great page on beginning
a costuming business:

http://www.directcon.net/wander/cosbiz.htm

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 12:08 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> week?"), which is why *I'm* particularly interested in this conversation,
> as I'm thinking of starting a business, too.

How do most of you bill (or are thinking of billing)?  Is it hourly, by the
piece, combinations? Do you give estimates or set a firm price up front? Are
expenses (fabric, trim,...) included in the price or are they extra?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 13:34:42 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I must highly recommend Margo Anderson's site with a great page on
beginning
> a costuming business:

Thanks. Margo's site was informative.

I was just curious about the business side of costuming. I work in the
computer industry where usually an estimate is given up front but customers
are actually charged hourly. Then, again, on my current project, we were
given a budget and once the money runs out, we're done. (I can see it now.
"Here's you're costume. Oh, I'm sorry. I didn't have the budget to finish
that last pant leg, but here's the leg I did finish. You'll just have to
stand sideways...")

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 13:41:55 1999
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-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

On Fri, 10 December 1999, "Heather" wrote:


> 
> I was just curious about the business side of costuming. I work in the
> computer industry where usually an estimate is given up front but customers
> are actually charged hourly. Then, again, on my current project, we were
> given a budget and once the money runs out, we're done. (I can see it now.
> "Here's you're costume. Oh, I'm sorry. I didn't have the budget to finish
> that last pant leg, but here's the leg I did finish. You'll just have to
> stand sideways...")
> 

If *I* were to make costumes for others (not something I've charged for, but I have tossed around the idea), this is how I would do it:

Have a standard hourly rate: say $25/hour (for illustration only)
Calculate how long you reasonably expect the piece to take you, rounding up rather than down. Quote the price based on hourly*rate. (ie if a Tunic takes 3 hours, quote $75 as your labour price). If you are realizing that the project is taking more of your time than expected  (due to requests of the customer, if you screw up and make a mistake and have to spend hours picking it apart, you can't charge for that), it is your responsibility to inform the customer as soon as possible. Provide alternatives: ie "I can do that funky trim  that you wanted for an additional $25, or  you can take it without the trim for the original price"). I would imagine after a couple times through, you can price the project fairly accurately without any later revisions. 

I would price material separately from labor -- silk costs more than cotton but takes the same amount of labor. For the few projects I have done with aquaintances, I will either charge for fabric (at a slight markup from the fabric store), or have them supply their own fabric (subject to my approval  -- because I want to ensure that the fabric choice is appropriate to the garment). 

Just my two pence,

Sheri

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 13:51:52 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:09:44 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

I have a great book on criminal justice called Criminal Justice Through the
Ages. It is put out by the Criminalmuseum in Rothenburg, Germany. It has a
wooden ruff that was used to punish women who violate clothing regulations
(pg 197). Plus it discusses it in some detail according to the index.
(Trying to get out of town at this point so can be more detailed on Sunday
when I get back if that is ok).
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001) <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: 'h-costume@indra.com' <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, December 10, 1999 10:21 AM
Subject: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?


>
>-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>
>Can anyone point me to a resource that discusses in fair detail how
>violations of sumptuary laws were dealt with?  I have just picked up bits
>and pieces that while the laws were in place they were basically ignored.
>Any help would be appreciated.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 13:52:36 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <7F402D0574C3D011ACF000A0C92B23D3025E113E@nt13pv.apsc.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>



>
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>
> Can anyone point me to a resource that discusses in fair detail how
> violations of sumptuary laws were dealt with?  I have just picked up bits
> and pieces that while the laws were in place they were basically ignored.
> Any help would be appreciated.

There is a site on line with the sumptuary laws listed in detail. I have a
print out here, put away. Maybe the site has some details on punishments
also, that I didn't see.  Have you already seen the list?  I'll pull it out
to get the address for the site if you need it. Let me know.
  The othere idea I have for you, is putting the question to the TudorTalk
mail list. I am on the list and can forward your question or point you
toward the list instead. Again, let me know what you want to do, since it is
unknown to me what you have already found or searched through.

Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:05:39 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>


Just to add another log to this fire.  Another thing you have to add in when
figuring out the price is what I call the "Boredom Factor".  The first time
I make a costume I have a great time and enjoy the work.  Twenty of the same
thing, and it takes a little more to get my fingers moving.  Making ready to
wear, is one thing.  I can turn out a Ren faire shirt without even being
fully wake.  But a corset or a doublet takes a good number of brain cells,
because each one is pretty much the same, but has different fitting
problems.  But come a month before North Faire I don't want to make one more
doublet, even if its for me.  When Star Trek II came out I made the tailored
uniform for a friend.  It's an tricky outfit, and looks terrible if you
don't get the tailoring just right.  But I was the first one and I figured
it would be good practice before I started on mine.  I charged her $125 plus
cost of fabric.  It looked great and she loved it.  And so did everyone
else.  Luckily I had told her that she was getting a friend price, so when I
got about 15 orders for the same thing they didn't think they were getting
it for $125.  Of the people that called I ended up making 11 costumes, and
never did make one for myself.  I ended up adding about $50 dollars to the
price every couple of costumes.  Except for the one that cost the gentlemen
$1500, (never order a week before the wedding.)  The long and the short of
this is charge what it takes for you to get the job done and better to
figure on the high end rather that on the low.


-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

I was just curious about the business side of costuming. I work in the
computer industry where usually an estimate is given up front but customers
are actually charged hourly. Then, again, on my current project, we were
given a budget and once the money runs out, we're done. (I can see it now.
"Here's you're costume. Oh, I'm sorry. I didn't have the budget to finish
that last pant leg, but here's the leg I did finish. You'll just have to
stand sideways...")

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:05:55 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Personally, and I don't do a tremendous amount for others than my kith &
kin, I ask the customer to meet me at the fabric store... they pay for
all materials.  I give them a time estimate & charge $25/hour.  I call
if the estimate runs over 10% of total cost for approval.  I point out
that hand sewing costs more labor because it takes me 7 hours to hand
sew a simple t-tunic dress as opposed to machine sewing it completely
which takes about 1-2.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:32:59 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 12:47:21 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Clothing Mistakes (was Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  I have a great book on criminal justice called Criminal Justice Through
the
>  Ages. It is put out by the Criminalmuseum in Rothenburg, Germany. It has
a
>  wooden ruff that was used to punish women who violate clothing
regulations
>  (pg 197). 

Considering the contortions that women have gone through (and men, too) to
be fashionable, I'm surprised the wooden ruff didn't take off as a fashion
statement. (Or maybe it did, not my period! ;)
A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is
the c.1830's American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in
lace! And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps some
women can carry this look, but I sure can't!

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Clothing Mistakes (was Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-p
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


Considering the contortions that women have gone through (and men, too) to
be fashionable, I'm surprised the wooden ruff didn't take off as a fashion
statement. (Or maybe it did, not my period! ;)
A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is
the c.1830's American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in
lace! And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps some
women can carry this look, but I sure can't!

Kate

There are a few periods that are no fun for the mem.  1750 comes formost to
my mind.  Everything fitted like a second skin.  Waistcoat, and coat pulling
your shoulders together.  And the breeches, you can look good or you can sit
BUT not both.

The last time I tried that period I never got past the muslin stage.  I
looked like I was 10 months gone.

Stephen Bergdahl - (Give me a well tailored frock coat any day.)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:40:20 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity?

The wheel farthingale is, to me, the most ridiculous piece.  *Especially* when
sitting down.  I'm not crazy about those waspish 19th century waists either.
Yikes!

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:42:26 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Sewing Hells (was: costume business)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 13:01:12 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people
ask if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to
help them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on
it. Has anyone else tried this?

>I've tried this with friends, too.  None of my friends took me up on the
offer, either.  Funny, that!

Yes, I have.  I usually say that I will show them how and that they will do
all the work.  Sewing Hells have happened at my house on many occasions.
The most I've done at once is a 1902 wedding (3 maids & a bride)
simultaneously helping 9 women into 1848-52 ball gowns for Stanford Vintage
Dance Ensemble. That was a busy 7 months.

I will only barter my costume services for someone else svcs.  Not money.  I
figure an hour for something I'm good at vs. an hour for something you're
good at is fair.  I've had a few say they'd rather pay.  I'm not willing to
go pro & take a pay cut. Instead, I jokingly offer that they can pay my
regular silicon valley S/W engineer hourly rate.  Somehow, they just laugh.
Historically & today, people just aren't willing to pay seamstresses &
tailors.  Maybe if I called myself a Fabric Engineer?

The biggest concern is going to be having enough equipment & space for all
available.  I also try to find a 2:1 ratio of novice to experienced
costumers.  Potluck food makes it a party.  Sometimes, we even start the day
at a new fabric or notions store someone's discovered then off to the slave
pits,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource? - Long!!!
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:22:52 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Actually, I decided to take the time to reply :)

First a little background.....This book is from the Kriminalmuseum in
Rothenburg, Germany were they had many pieces of torture on display. The
book is from there and the info on it is... "Criminal Justice Through the
Ages", published by Mittelalterliches Kriminalmuseum. I can't seem to find
an isb number for it. I have the english edition. This book primarly focuses
on Germany laws and their punishments so what I quote may not be true for
all of Europe. What I am going to do is give the page numbers then the
context then the actual quote.

22 through 24 - on Imperial police codes of 16th Century - "The rules of law
and order and the police tried to control blasphemy, excessive drinking,
exaggerated dressiness, and to curb luxury. For example, they prohibited the
wearing of velvet, damak, satin, and silk, coats by merchants and traders in
the town, and laid restraints on superflous bridle equipment for horses and
worldly clothing for the clergy."
85 - on Imperial law on jews - "It was not until the imperial public peace
law of 1103 that the public peace was also extended to the Jews; this was
coupled, however, with the loss of the right to bear arms and complusion to
wear specific clothing (conical hat)."
149 through 150 - Section on wearing degrading Garments - "The symbolic
significance of clothing is as old as clothing itself. It demonstrates the
rank and status of the wearer. So what was more obvious than to make persons
who placed themselve beyond the pale of the community by thier actions,
their peculiar origin or thier vocation recognizable to all special
clothing.
The appearace, and in the broadest sense the dress, of a person includes the
hair. The hair-style. open or tied, long or short, permitted conclusions to
be drawn with regard to a person's legal status. Only the freeman wore long
hair, while the bondsman's was cut short. Consequently, cutting off the hair
of the head was a degrading punishment from time immemorial. Men and women
who had committed sexual offences had their hair cut off, a degrading
punishment still inflicted in our times by moblaw.
Shortening of a woman's dress was a customary degrading punishment. The
mothers of illegimate children and female adulterers had a broad strip cut
off the bottom of thier dress in public. Clothing served primarily as a
protection from inclement weather and the shortening of the dress meant
exposure, deprival of protection and disgrace.
Like the reduction or shortening of clothing, compulsion to wear certain
garments was likewise a degrading punishment or at least the mark of those
considered dishonest. Insolvent debtors were therefor required to wear a
yellow hat and imcompetent farmers a white hat (Schaumburg Lippe, 18th
Century). The sharp distinction between Christians and Jews demanded the
Catholic chruch resulted in Jews  having to wear a pointed hat and a yellow
patch on their breast as identification. To enable better supervision of
prostitution, which though tolerated was viewed with suspicion by the
authoriteis, prostitutes were ordered to wear conspicuous clothig
characteristic of thier calling. Excutioners, too, were required to wear
different clothing than the normal citizen.
The clothing regualtions issued in the 14th and 15th century, above all in
the cities, made breaches of them practically inevitable. Contraventions of
the clothing regulations were punished mainly by fines, but in some cities
the tipstaffs had orders to remove on the open street too opulent clothing
not in keeping with a person's rank."
275 - on women of ill repute - "The courteasans, wenches or ladies of easy
virtue were compelled to wear conspicuous clothing characteristic of their
calling. In Rothenburg, a red-and-white kerchief, in Augusburg merely a
strip of green material two fingers wide on their veil, and in Leipzip short
yellow mantles on which blue cords were sewn."
290 through 296 - I consider this too long to retype out so will have to
read it and summerize for you. I will get back to this in a bit (maybe
Sunday)

Carol Ross

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

Regarding sumptuary laws, what country? What years?  It varied  depending on 
when and where you were.

Pamela D. 
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 02:25 PM 12/10/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Personally, and I don't do a tremendous amount for others than my kith &
>kin, I ask the customer to meet me at the fabric store... they pay for
>all materials.

I will never do this again, not since the time I took a client along to
select the lambskins for a  leather swashbuckler shirt and he insisted on
closely inspecting every single one of a 150 skin bundle.  "I want this one
for the left cuff..this is the back yoke...this one, no, this one, for the
left side front panel...."  It did turn out stunning, though.  

Margo



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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:40:30 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Mara

Racinet was published in the 1800's - and is very romantical!  I own it as
it is a very nice looking book, but would not dream of using it as a source.

Think:  typical Victorian ideals of history and you have it.

Have a terrific Day

Madilayn

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn


>

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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:38:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

First off, thank you all for reading and responding to my initial question.

The time period is 1600, the area is England. The person is a very, very
wealthy visiting merchant from Germany.  How would the sumptuary laws been
applied?  

I find it very interesting.  Not that everything human beings do makes
sense, but it was my understanding that some nobles, even kings had to
borrow money from banks run by the wealthy merchant class.  So, how did they
get off restricting what those people wore? 

Anyone know when sumptuary laws 'went out of fashion'?

Does anyone recall coming across examples where the laws were ignored?  I
wish I could remember the source, but I remember reading about one non-noble
woman who was asked or told that she couldn't wear her best dress to a
wedding of a princess because her clothes were more sumptuous than the
nobles.  So, the point being that she may have complied on this occasion but
not usually.
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

I went and looked through all of my books on criminal justice and torture
and all I could find was what I posted in my last post (the really long
one). I imagine that you would have to obey the English laws but I am not
certain.
Carol Ross

>
>The time period is 1600, the area is England. The person is a very, very
>wealthy visiting merchant from Germany.  How would the sumptuary laws been
>applied?
>
>I find it very interesting.  Not that everything human beings do makes
>sense, but it was my understanding that some nobles, even kings had to
>borrow money from banks run by the wealthy merchant class.  So, how did
they
>get off restricting what those people wore?
>
>Anyone know when sumptuary laws 'went out of fashion'?
>
>Does anyone recall coming across examples where the laws were ignored?  I
>wish I could remember the source, but I remember reading about one
non-noble
>woman who was asked or told that she couldn't wear her best dress to a
>wedding of a princess because her clothes were more sumptuous than the
>nobles.  So, the point being that she may have complied on this occasion
but
>not usually.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:53:31 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 08:41 AM 12/9/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
>> attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:
>
>Just a thought.  How do you know that she isn't on this list?  Personally, I
>would be very careful before posting a comment like this to a public forum.
>We can't educate if someone's feelings are terribly hurt.
>
>FWIW,
>Cynthia

Ok, you're right.  I don't know she isn't on this list, or at least
lurking.  If the seamstress is on the list, I apologize for my catty
remarks and chalk it up to stir-craziness on my part (am just dying to get
out of the house after my stitches heal sufficiently).  Plus crankiness
from having to deal with too many stupid-tourist questions when I _am_ out
trying to do an accurate period impression and educate people (Is that a
real fire?  Is that knife sharp?  Did they really get dyes that color
(referring to my sky-blue indigo dyed wool, done on-site and hanging up to
dry)?  They didn't have guns like that back then!  You can't fight a war
with guns like that!).  It's sometimes rather like going to a
science-fiction convention, with people wandering around in bunny-fur tops
and ragged-edged leather skirts, with fake Celtic tattoos on their
arms/bellies...  Yes, I understand that people like to have fun.  She just
hit a nerve.  I'm sorry.

Mara



Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:46:25 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 03:02 PM 12/9/99 -0600, you wrote:
>You can't see it as well in the photo which is very muted but my dh has
>a tie of the Ancient Bruce and it's NEON... and every other tartan I've
>seen noted as Ancient Bruce is JUST as neon.
>
>Kat

That wasn't my point.  Is Ancient Bruce really an ancient tartan?  If so,
what is it based on, since there are no 'clan tartans' going back much
further than the beginning of the Victorian era?

Yes, you can get bright colors using natural dyes.  Not neon-bright, but
pretty bright.  And I guess what I call 'neon' are the shades that you see
on surfer or skateboarder attire, not just a bright red or yellow.  I've
gotten fairly bright oranges and yellows using natural dyes.  I'm not
disputing that you can; the question is, how were those dyes used?  I've
seen tartans that were both too bright, and those that were (IMNSHO) too dark.

Bright reds and bright yellows were certainly obtainable in our period.
I'm disputing the argument that Bruce is in any way ancient.  In fact, my
copy of 'Tartans: Their Art and History' says that Bruce is from Vestarium
Scoticum, a famous early Victorian forgery which was purported to be of
much older origin but which was in fact published in 1842.  Their picture
of 'Bruce' does indeed show a tartan that is predominantly orange/red and
yellow, and the colors certainly could have been acheived using natural
dyes.  BUT -- does that mean that a patten invented by Victorians is in any
way like the patterns woven in earlier centuries?  For that, you have to
look at the portraits done in those earlier centuries, and not assume that
a pattern invented later is valid.  (In fact, it's not very different from
one worn in a portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie by John Pettie, so an
argument could be made for its use.  But not as the 'Bruce tartan', since
there wouldn't have been any such thing.)

For that matter, the colors in Buchanan are probably acheivable using
natural dyes, and that's a very bright tartan.  But the sett (pattern)
simply isn't accurate for my period (mid 1700s), as far as I can tell.
Fine for Victorian and later, of course!  Just don't use it for earlier
periods -- it's like taking a modern chinese brocade and using it for a
Tudor gown.  You might sometimes find something that would work, but it
would take a lot of careful research and luck!

Cheers,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 17:57:48 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 16:07:51 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I'm pretty sure that visiting merchants, like diplomats, are exempt from
local sumptuary laws.  One of the reason for the laws is to keep people from
getting above themselves, sure, but also to keep them from spending all
their money on clothes.  The Queen doesn't care how foreigners beggar
themselves on fine dress.  It's always wise not to outdress the Queen, sure,
but in ordinary commerce, it shouldn't be a problem.  A Swedish princess who
tries will be sorry, I'm sure, but not fined or put in the stocks or
whatever.  However...

If the merchant takes up permanent residence in London, it might also be
wise to go along with the prevailing restraint, to fit in and avoid inciting
envy.  Foreigners in England had anough to worry about!  So it depends on
the circumstances in which the character finds himself.  

My personal opinon about sumptuary in Tudor/Elizabethan England is that it's
enforced by the neighbors.  The Watch does not kick down your door on their
own to see if you have things above your station.  If you appear at a dance
in the wrong sort of fur, you don't immediately get arrested.  No, someone
complains to the town Council, or one Alderman's wife complains to her
husband about another Alderman's wife, and the both Aldermen sigh "Women!"
and decide what's to be done about it.  If Alderman B can't get his wife to
take the fur trim off her new hat, or gets huffy about it himself, the
Council may have to determine a fine.  I haven't run into a lot of evidence
of people being run in to court on a charge of illegal use of gilt.  

But I could be wrong. ;)

Just my tuppence ha'penny, as always.


> MaggiRos
> http://ren.dm.net
> 
> 
> Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
> and sometimes even 
> 	Maggie Pierce Secara
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Genevieve de Courtanvaux[SMTP:gdc@airmail.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Friday, December 10, 1999 3:26 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
> 
> I went and looked through all of my books on criminal justice and torture
> and all I could find was what I posted in my last post (the really long
> one). I imagine that you would have to obey the English laws but I am not
> certain.
> Carol Ross
> 
> >
> >The time period is 1600, the area is England. The person is a very, very
> >wealthy visiting merchant from Germany.  How would the sumptuary laws
> been
> >applied?
> >
> >I find it very interesting.  Not that everything human beings do makes
> >sense, but it was my understanding that some nobles, even kings had to
> >borrow money from banks run by the wealthy merchant class.  So, how did
> they
> >get off restricting what those people wore?
> >
> >Anyone know when sumptuary laws 'went out of fashion'?
> >
> >Does anyone recall coming across examples where the laws were ignored?  I
> >wish I could remember the source, but I remember reading about one
> non-noble
> >woman who was asked or told that she couldn't wear her best dress to a
> >wedding of a princess because her clothes were more sumptuous than the
> >nobles.  So, the point being that she may have complied on this occasion
> but
> >not usually.
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> A Swedish princess who
> tries will be sorry, I'm sure, but not fined or put in the stocks or
> whatever.  However...

FWIW, I doubt a Princess needs to worry about sumptuary laws, local or foreign.
I might be mistaken, I often am, but weren't sumptuary laws for the nobility on
down, not for royalty?

That's my tuppence,  :)
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:18:10 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 16:28:12 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

That's what I meant.  Someone cited a princess being advised not to wear
something because it would outshine the Queen's gown.  That's advice, not
law.  The "punishment" is the Queen's temper.

The laws I've seen are based on rank and income, and generally anyone above
the degree of a baroness (or worth more than 100 pounds a year) can wear
anything she likes.  I haven't made a lengthy study of this tho.  Everyone
I've ever played has either been a Countess or of such meager standing that
the question is unlikely to come up. :)

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Merouda the True of Beaumaris[SMTP:keltia@serv.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Friday, December 10, 1999 4:26 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> > A Swedish princess who
> > tries will be sorry, I'm sure, but not fined or put in the stocks or
> > whatever.  However...
> 
> FWIW, I doubt a Princess needs to worry about sumptuary laws, local or
> foreign.
> I might be mistaken, I often am, but weren't sumptuary laws for the
> nobility on
> down, not for royalty?
> 
> That's my tuppence,  :)
> Cynthia
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:19:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 16:39:14 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: H-COST: Cocoon Coat, etc. from Folkwear...
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Since this has come up on this list before...

I just received the following e-mail from Lark Books, current 
publishers of Folkwear Patterns:

---------------------

* New Pattern from FOLKWEAR - The Paris Promenade Dress  *

One of our brand new patterns has arrived: #261 The PARIS PROMENADE DRESS.
This easy-to-sew, easy-to-wear afternoon dress from about 1920 flatters any
figure. Pullover dress is attached to bib-shaped overdress, then shaped to
the body at the waist by a self-fabric sash or purchased decorative cord.
Vintage-style drawstring handbag completes the look. Pattern includes
instructions for making decorative tassels to attach at ends of dress
sleeves and bottom of handbag. Misses Extra Small to Extra Large. $16.95

Check it out at:
http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/dynamic/search/results/?sectdir=fw&c 
at=romantic&prod=32261&lsid=0005b334f66088e3c655fe6224a43a88

That's not all! More new patterns will be arriving soon:
#260 SUNBURST COCOON COAT
and
#208 KINSALE CLOAK FOR YOUNG MAIDENS
should be available by January 2000.

Look through the entire collection of Folkwear Patterns to your heart's
content at:
http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/fw/

OR

request a free Folkwear catalog by e-mailing folkwear@larkbooks.com or
calling 1-800-284 3388.

---------------------

I'm not selling anything, just letting interested folks know...

BTW, pattern 261 is not a "flapper"dress"...

Lilinah
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:20:36 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Not meaning to flame anyone but quite frankly I'm sure that there were
ancestors who wore any type of flaming color that was capable of being
made with the dyes available to them.  Everyone has a tendency to point
to earlier generations and say things like "oh but people *conformed*
back in 'x'".  I don't believe it.  Over and over I hear folx saying
that this or that just *wasn't* done in thus & so a period.  But without
a time machine how do we know?  Really?  If it's not specifically
mentioned in writing by someone who we can trust (and can we really
'trust' anyone to be 100% accurate?) how do we know that there weren't
people doing/wearing 'x'?  Non-conformists did not spring out of the
ether in this generation... or the last one... or the one before that. 
So here's my solution... if you feel that it is being more accurate by
following *only* what is specifically written down in a document then go
for it.  If you feel it's accurate to go by what's written down &
paintings etc... go for it.  If you feel it's accurate to use materials
and methods available for the period... go for it.  Personally, I have
enough stress in my life without worrying about it... and I've read
enough history to not worry about it.  <grin>

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:29:33 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> I will never do this again, not since the time I took a client along
> to select the lambskins for a  leather swashbuckler shirt and he
> insisted on closely inspecting every single one of a 150 skin bundle.
>  "I want this one for the left cuff..this is the back yoke...this one,
> no, this one, for the left side front panel...."  It did turn out
> stunning, though.

LOL!  This is why I take separate cars!!  Bless me!  I'd have looked at
him and said, "you need 'x' amount... I'll be at home waiting."

Kat
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:00:23 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Mchelle

Can you please post the site with the Sumptary Laws on it?  (or sent it
privately to me if you like)

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com



>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:42:46 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:03:48 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

I agree about the wheel farthingale, but my alltime hate is the current
trend for Micro Mini skirts (as in Ally McBeal).

You have to have perfect legs to wear them and look good, but they are just
plain not business-like or professional for work wear (and yes - I know
people who do wear them for work).

I catch the bus with a lady who wears them soo short that when she sits
down, she is not actually sitting on her skirt!

The other big hate is tent dresses for larger sizes.  I am a big lady and I
can't stand that people assume that because one is not a model size, that
one must wear a tent.

I dress very well - and not in tents.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com



>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:52:51 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Albert Racinet
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:11:46 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Racinet was published in the 1800's - and is very romantical!  I own it as
>it is a very nice looking book, but would not dream of using it as a
source.
>Think:  typical Victorian ideals of history and you have it.

Yes, "romantic" as in flights of fancy.  I have both the complete Racinet
(intro by Dr. Aileen Ribero) and the abridged Dover version.  Dr. Ribero's
comments on Racinet's somewhat questionable scholarship, the "creative"
choice of colors in the original publication and her notes on *his* source
material are interesting, informative reading for the novice/intermediate
costume historian. It's a top notch source for Victorian Fancy Dress.

A few years ago, I saw 2 of the original 1880 set of 6 volumes.  Hand
colored plates.  Brilliant condition.  US$600 the pair.  I walked away from
it.  Sometime I regret this. Sometimes I dont.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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Subject: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



The thing I can't stand is those Napoleon era men's collars that covered 
men's chins. I've seen a few in movies that made me think, "Oh -- so THAT was 
the idea." But I bet they were mostly hideous, like stretch pants so often 
are today. But to each his own -- I like those 1830s sleeves!

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 20:17:53 1999
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

You can find them on Drea's site at 
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/general.html

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 20:42:44 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/10/1999 9:29:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< The thing I can't stand is those Napoleon era men's collars that covered 
 men's chins. >>

You mean that cravat style where you fold the bias cut silk triangle [or 
folded square] over a leather or boned stock. It looks great if you fuss with 
it a lot. But I agree with you that if someone was not so fussy it might look 
awful! Of course the same is true of things like hoop skirts. The wrong one 
or worn incorrectly can be a disaster.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 05:06:39 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Peascod bellies on Elizabethan men's jackets.  Time for the men to look
as if they are pregnant, finally!

--
  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 05:21:56 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>




>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> > A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity?
>
One vote for the huge wigs just prior to the French revolution.
Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
already, why make it huge?

Andrea

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 06:58:57 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF43A5.32465C40
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This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by =
Boucher.  The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but =
it doesn't have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me =
your opinion.  The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on =
page 230.  It appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and =
down the skirt.  Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me =
it looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look =
like beading to anyone else?  Or what does it look like to you?
Andrea

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years =
of Fashion"=20
by Boucher.&nbsp; The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian =
dress, but=20
it doesn't have to be your focus.&nbsp; Just look at the picture and =
give me=20
your opinion.&nbsp; The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. =
Bronzino)on=20
page 230.&nbsp; It appears that their is some sort of trim at the =
sleeves and=20
down the skirt.&nbsp; Normally I would have thought it was piping, but =
to me it=20
looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.&nbsp; Does this look =
like=20
beading to anyone else?&nbsp; Or what does it look like to =
you?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF43A5.32465C40--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 05:53:59 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Heather wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
> 
> > week?"), which is why *I'm* particularly interested in this conversation,
> > as I'm thinking of starting a business, too.
> 
> How do most of you bill (or are thinking of billing)?  Is it hourly, by the
> piece, combinations? Do you give estimates or set a firm price up front? Are
> expenses (fabric, trim,...) included in the price or are they extra?
> 

I have a basic pricelist of machine body hand finished clothing. As I
have been doing it for so long I now have a good idea of what length of
time each job is going to take. i.e trousers are days work so they are a
days pay etc
I charge fabric separately, something I learned was a wise move early
on. But again I usually know how much fabric is needed and the approx
cost pm  so can give an accurate quote. 
For instance for a Napoleonic officers coat I need 21/2m redcloth at
 30pm + 1m facing cloth @£45pm +1/2m white wool for turnbacks @£30pm +
15m lace + buttons. This doesn't vary . If it is for something like
wedding dress when trims etc are decided during making the customer
knows that the order price may differ slightly at the end but it is
their responsibility to say no if they don't want expensive trims etc
 I take a 50% deposit Then another 25% halfway through then the balance
before delivery. I also charge for postage if they can't pick up.
Particularly as I have alot of customers overseas. I also charge if I
have to go somewhere else for the fittings. Do also bear in mind that
making time also means running around finding fabrics so include that.
Your time is precious and your customers should respect that. Most don't
Sewing is an unrecognised skill and you won't make a fortune by going
pro.

Even institutions like museums are now going for whatever is cheap
rather than what is accurate for their display cases

Good Luck

Dawn   
      

>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 08:43:57 1999
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Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Big clothing hate:

Spandex. On women especially. It enhances the thin of thin people, and if
you aren't thin it makes you look like you weight 400 pounds even though
you may only weigh 120 dripping wet!

Guys in good shape look pretty buff in it though. ;)

Other dislikes: spike shoes, especially spike slippers with feathers or
other froo-froo over the arch. Those ridiculous round cloth hats that
were all the rage last year--I never saw anyone of any age who didn't
look like they weren't wearing a pile of mashed potatoes on their head.

Big likes: tailored looks, clothes designed to fit the body rather than
the other way around, clean lines, nice flow, very classic and classy.



					Arlys

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Message-ID: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 10:10:36 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/11/1999 6:42:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:


 <<Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
 
Bite your tongue....these are both fantastic styles....of course capable of 
being ugly but mostly they look great. They're a standard for a century! 


>>Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
 already, why make it huge?

Keep biting! Bustles no more make one's butt look big than panniers make 
one's hips look big. What they do make one look like is that one is wearing 
some kind of hooped or padded underpinning to support skirts. I ask you, does 
anyone over 6 years old ever think these things are flesh???

Now if you REALLY want to complain about these things, think:

High waisted panniers....like with an Empire gown....it happened! or....
The dropped waisted version of the same thing in the 1920's

Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 
1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also like 
the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]
 
 
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:23:17 -0600
From: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Since were are talking about fashions we could do without, my personal
'favorite' is the huge tube pants, with no waist and legs you could fit
your body in.  With the waist band hanging so low that if it wasn't for
the boxers you would see half their cheeks.

Nic(constant lurker)

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 12/11/1999 6:42:15 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:
> 
>  <<Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
> 
> Bite your tongue....these are both fantastic styles....of course capable of
> being ugly but mostly they look great. They're a standard for a century!
> 
> >>Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
>  already, why make it huge?
> 
> Keep biting! Bustles no more make one's butt look big than panniers make
> one's hips look big. What they do make one look like is that one is wearing
> some kind of hooped or padded underpinning to support skirts. I ask you, does
> anyone over 6 years old ever think these things are flesh???
> 
> Now if you REALLY want to complain about these things, think:
> 
> High waisted panniers....like with an Empire gown....it happened! or....
> The dropped waisted version of the same thing in the 1920's
> 
> Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late
> 1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also like
> the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 10:07:30 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:24:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
In-Reply-To: <LPBBKNMJBFAPBEPPLOBJIEEECEAA.madilayn@one.net.au>
Message-ID: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991211112442.13253B-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

That's pretty much what I figured.  Thanks!


On Sat, 11 Dec 1999, Megan McConnell wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
> 
> Mara
> 
> Racinet was published in the 1800's - and is very romantical!  I own it as
> it is a very nice looking book, but would not dream of using it as a source.
> 
> Think:  typical Victorian ideals of history and you have it.
> 
> Have a terrific Day
> 
> Madilayn
> 
> Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
> ICQ #  57164109
> Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn
> 
> 
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 10:44:06 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

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It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of =
Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is located =
on page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running =
down the center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. =
Also on page 26 number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same =
treatment. Good Luck with the garment.
Carol Ross=20
aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Andrea Gideon <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
  To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
  Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 5:49 AM
  Subject: H-COST: question regarding a picture


  This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by =
Boucher.  The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but =
it doesn't have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me =
your opinion.  The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on =
page 230.  It appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and =
down the skirt.  Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me =
it looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look =
like beading to anyone else?  Or what does it look like to you?
  Andrea

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV>It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of =
Fashion"=20
there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is located on page =
15. See=20
number 84. If you look closely at the piping running down the center =
front of=20
the doublet you can see that it is slashed. Also on page 26 number 169. =
The neck=20
of the garment also has the same treatment. Good Luck with the =
garment.</DIV>
<DIV>Carol Ross </DIV>
<DIV>aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
  </B>Andrea Gideon &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:ahgideon@earthlink.net">ahgideon@earthlink.net</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
  </B>H-Costume &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Dat=
e:=20
  </B>Saturday, December 11, 1999 5:49 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>H-COST: =
question=20
  regarding a picture<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years =
of=20
  Fashion" by Boucher.&nbsp; The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era =
Italian=20
  dress, but it doesn't have to be your focus.&nbsp; Just look at the =
picture=20
  and give me your opinion.&nbsp; The picture is #466 (Laudonia de =
Medici by A.=20
  Bronzino)on page 230.&nbsp; It appears that their is some sort of trim =
at the=20
  sleeves and down the skirt.&nbsp; Normally I would have thought it was =
piping,=20
  but to me it looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.&nbsp; =
Does=20
  this look like beading to anyone else?&nbsp; Or what does it look like =
to=20
  you?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:44:25 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Greetings!
=20
I did something really scary just now!  I went into my livingroom and =
pulled out my Boucher *in the dark*!  It's *funny* that I knew right off =
where the book was..*LOL*!

Anyhow, to the question:  The edge trimming that you are looking at is a =
common treatment and you'll find it on other garments of the time as =
well; Janet Arnold has a few pictures in her books with this treatment =
as well. Yes, you are correct it is broken at intervals. I speculate =
that the trimming is actually a piece of material (or ribbon or material =
folded on the *bias*) folded in half, lengthwise, sewn on like piping, =
and then snipped at intervals.  Or it the material is snipped prior to =
sewing on, though I lean more towards after it was sewn on.  Or the =
trimming is made from individual mini tabs that are sewn on one by one.  =


Now, the reason why I think the trimming is snipped after application is =
based on the idea that cut edges unravel with a lot of handling, which =
is what happens when you are doing sewing by hand.  Unless the snip is =
treated with gum arabic or other sealants.  Or if the trimming is cut on =
the bias, then the snips *generally* would not tend to unravel.  I say =
generally, because it would depend on the weave and finish whether or =
not the material would unravel.

Or if it is made with individual tabs made with ribbon, then there would =
not be any exposed cut edges.=20

Anyways, these are just my ramblings and speculation.   =20

Gia/Giacinta
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Andrea Gideon <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
    To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
    Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 3:52 AM
    Subject: H-COST: question regarding a picture
   =20
   =20
    This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by =
Boucher.  The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but =
it doesn't have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me =
your opinion.  The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on =
page 230.  It appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and =
down the skirt.  Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me =
it looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look =
like beading to anyone else?  Or what does it look like to you?
    Andrea

------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BF43B3.EDBF2FC0
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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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HTML//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Greetings!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I did something really scary just now!&nbsp; I went into my =
livingroom and=20
pulled out my Boucher *in the dark*!&nbsp; It's *funny* that I knew =
right off=20
where the book was..*LOL*!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Anyhow, to the question:&nbsp; The edge trimming that you are =
looking at is=20
a common treatment and you'll find it on other garments of the time as =
well;=20
Janet Arnold has a few pictures in her books with this treatment as =
well. Yes,=20
you are correct it is broken at intervals. I speculate that the trimming =
is=20
actually a piece of material (or ribbon or material folded on the =
*bias*) folded=20
in half, lengthwise, sewn on like piping, and then snipped at =
intervals.&nbsp;=20
Or it the material is snipped prior to sewing on, though I lean more =
towards=20
after it was sewn on.&nbsp; Or the trimming is made from individual mini =
tabs=20
that are sewn on one by one.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Now, the reason why I think the trimming is snipped after =
application is=20
based on the idea that cut edges unravel with a lot of handling, which =
is what=20
happens when you are doing sewing by hand.&nbsp; Unless the snip is =
treated with=20
gum arabic or other sealants.&nbsp; Or if the trimming is cut on the =
bias, then=20
the snips *generally* would not tend to unravel.&nbsp; I say generally, =
because=20
it would depend on the weave and finish whether or not the material =
would=20
unravel.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Or if it is made with individual tabs made with ribbon, then there =
would=20
not be any exposed cut edges.&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Anyways, these are just my ramblings and=20
speculation.&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT>&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Andrea Gideon &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:ahgideon@earthlink.net">ahgideon@earthlink.net</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
    </B>H-Costume &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Dat=
e:=20
    </B>Saturday, December 11, 1999 3:52 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>H-COST: =
question=20
    regarding a picture<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is for anyone who has a copy of =
&quot;20,000 Years of=20
    Fashion&quot; by Boucher.&nbsp; The dress happens to be an =
Elizabethan era=20
    Italian dress, but it doesn't have to be your focus.&nbsp; Just look =
at the=20
    picture and give me your opinion.&nbsp; The picture is #466 =
(Laudonia de=20
    Medici by A. Bronzino)on page 230.&nbsp; It appears that their is =
some sort=20
    of trim at the sleeves and down the skirt.&nbsp; Normally I would =
have=20
    thought it was piping, but to me it looks like the line is broken at =
regular=20
    intervals.&nbsp; Does this look like beading to anyone else?&nbsp; =
Or what=20
    does it look like to you?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <017e01bf43f6$f0ec5860$0200a8c0@mamabear.stormypetrel.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 12:26:34 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

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  It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of =
Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is located =
on page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running =
down the center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. =
Also on page 26 number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same =
treatment. Good Luck with the garment.
  Carol Ross=20
  aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux


  This sounds good, but it apears to be smaller than on the Janet Arnold =
garment.  Also, how would you prevent it from fraying?  And, if it is =
slashed, than it must not be piping like I'm used to thinking of piping, =
a bias strip of fabric wrapped around a cord.  If so, the cord would =
work itself out of the casing.
  Andrea

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns =
of=20
  Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is =
located on=20
  page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running down =
the=20
  center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. Also on =
page 26=20
  number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same treatment. Good =
Luck=20
  with the garment.</DIV>
  <DIV>Carol Ross </DIV>
  <DIV>aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>This sounds good, but it apears to be =
smaller than=20
  on the Janet Arnold garment.&nbsp; Also, how would you prevent it from =

  fraying?&nbsp; And, if it is slashed, than it must not be piping like =
I'm used=20
  to thinking of piping, a bias strip of fabric wrapped around a =
cord.&nbsp; If=20
  so, the cord would work itself out of the =
casing.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2><STRONG>Andrea</STRONG></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:26 PM 12/10/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> A Swedish princess who
>> tries will be sorry, I'm sure, but not fined or put in the stocks or
>> whatever.  However...
>
>FWIW, I doubt a Princess needs to worry about sumptuary laws, local or foreign.
>I might be mistaken, I often am, but weren't sumptuary laws for the nobility on
>down, not for royalty?


The Swedish Princess who visited Elizabeth's court  did cause a lot of
trouble, but I don't know if any of it was of a sumptuary nature.  She ran
up terrible bills, stayed far too long, and resorted to near blackmail to
get out of the country with her unpaid for purchases. And her husband was
worse.  

 She did get a bit of a slap down from Elizabeth:  in many records she is
referred to as the Lady Cecelia, rather than Princess Cecilia.  

I used to portray her at Ren Faire occasionally, and she was a hoot.  "May I
gif you vone of the medals that my brother, Eric the Mad, had made in
testimonial of my virginity, after I vas found naked in bed vith my brother
in law on his vedding night?"

Someone really should write a novel....

Margo


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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:36:04 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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You're correct about the cord.....I was thinking piping as in inset trim =
not as in have a cord in it....just two different view points of the =
same thing. :)
Carol Ross
aka Genevieve de Courtanvuax
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Andrea Gideon <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
  To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
  Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 11:15 AM
  Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture





    It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of =
Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is located =
on page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running =
down the center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. =
Also on page 26 number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same =
treatment. Good Luck with the garment.
    Carol Ross=20
    aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux


    This sounds good, but it apears to be smaller than on the Janet =
Arnold garment.  Also, how would you prevent it from fraying?  And, if =
it is slashed, than it must not be piping like I'm used to thinking of =
piping, a bias strip of fabric wrapped around a cord.  If so, the cord =
would work itself out of the casing.
    Andrea

------=_NextPart_000_019A_01BF43CB.E83E91E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV>You're correct about the cord.....I was thinking piping as in inset =
trim=20
not as in have a cord in it....just two different view points of the =
same thing.=20
:)</DIV>
<DIV>Carol Ross</DIV>
<DIV>aka Genevieve de Courtanvuax</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
  </B>Andrea Gideon &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:ahgideon@earthlink.net">ahgideon@earthlink.net</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
  </B><A href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> =
&lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Dat=
e:=20
  </B>Saturday, December 11, 1999 11:15 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: =
H-COST:=20
  question regarding a picture<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><BR></DIV>
    <DIV>It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns =
of=20
    Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is =
located on=20
    page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running =
down the=20
    center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. Also on =
page 26=20
    number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same treatment. =
Good Luck=20
    with the garment.</DIV>
    <DIV>Carol Ross </DIV>
    <DIV>aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>This sounds good, but it apears to be =
smaller than=20
    on the Janet Arnold garment.&nbsp; Also, how would you prevent it =
from=20
    fraying?&nbsp; And, if it is slashed, than it must not be piping =
like I'm=20
    used to thinking of piping, a bias strip of fabric wrapped around a=20
    cord.&nbsp; If so, the cord would work itself out of the=20
    casing.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2><STRONG>Andrea</STRONG></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></=
BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 12:29:45 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 19:46:46 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I agree totally on this:

Bjarne Drews

AlbertCat@aol.com skrev:

> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/11/1999 6:42:15 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:
>
>  <<Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
>
> Bite your tongue....these are both fantastic styles....of course capable of
> being ugly but mostly they look great. They're a standard for a century!
>
> >>Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
>  already, why make it huge?
>
> Keep biting! Bustles no more make one's butt look big than panniers make
> one's hips look big. What they do make one look like is that one is wearing
> some kind of hooped or padded underpinning to support skirts. I ask you, does
> anyone over 6 years old ever think these things are flesh???
>
> Now if you REALLY want to complain about these things, think:
>
> High waisted panniers....like with an Empire gown....it happened! or....
> The dropped waisted version of the same thing in the 1920's
>
> Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late
> 1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also like
> the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <LPBBKNMJBFAPBEPPLOBJAEEMCEAA.madilayn@one.net.au>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:24:37 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Megan,
   I didn't recall the address  when I made the post because it had been so
long ago. We printed it off of Drea's site.
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/sumptuary.html

  I hope it is still up. My copy was printed June 4th of 99.

Michelle



>
> -Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
>
> Mchelle
>
> Can you please post the site with the Sumptary Laws on it?  (or sent it
> privately to me if you like)
>
> Have a terrific Day
>
> Megan
>
> Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
> ICQ #  57164109
> Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn
>
> Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies
>
> Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com
>
>
>
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 13:12:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Mom and I have had many a conversation, or complain-fest, about that look
associated with the 'tough' gang boys. The pants are so loose that they slid
down, barely being held by the largest part of the rear. The crotch is
somewhere around the knees. Then, because they are being worn improperly,
the boys chop the bottom of the pants off, so they don't trip on the things.
These kids walk around with their boxers showing and can't do anything but a
snailpaced walk without losing their pants. I have seen these guys walking
across the street with one hand on their pants to pull them back up with
every step. Goodness, if they did end up in a fight, they'd lose simply
because of their dumb fashion sense.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:10:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:57:13 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 09:34 PM 12/9/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
>
>No the is only one on page 83 xxx111 dated 1750.
>They are built like the coats of the period and can be rather elaborate
>
>Dawn

Thanks!  Well, we'll see which one I get around to making... (grin)

Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:10:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 19:29:42 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Hells (was: costume business)
In-Reply-To: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E63784D2497@scl-exch.phoenix.co
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 01:01 PM 12/10/99 -0800, Cynthia Barnes wrote:
>I will only barter my costume services for someone else svcs.  Not money.  I
>figure an hour for something I'm good at vs. an hour for something you're
>good at is fair.  I've had a few say they'd rather pay.  I'm not willing to
>go pro & take a pay cut. Instead, I jokingly offer that they can pay my
>regular silicon valley S/W engineer hourly rate.  Somehow, they just laugh.
>Historically & today, people just aren't willing to pay seamstresses &
>tailors.  Maybe if I called myself a Fabric Engineer?

LOL!  My hubby has the same problem.  He makes a pretty good wage in his
'real' job, and when people ask him how much it would cost them to have him
make something in his woodworking shop, he just laughs and tells them they
can't afford his hourly rate.  He does make stuff for friends, however
(small stuff) -- IF he ever gets around to it.

Personally, I only sew for others for barter or gifts.  I've tried sewing
for money, and I just can't do it.  I'm too much of a perfectionist to
spend as little time on a project as would make it economically feasible.

Cheers,
Mara

Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:10:32 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:58:56 -0500
To: dawn.wood1@virgin.net
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 09:30 PM 12/9/99 -0800, Dawn wrote:
>I agree. My society re-enactes the Jacobite rebellion in the Uk.
>It is now recognised that the 'tartans' are local weaves and dyes just
>as in most countries. these just happen to be of stripes and checks
>which were popular 18thc fabric designs anyway, Tartans as we know them
>are a victorian idea.
>Dawn

Dawn,
Which group are you with?  My hubby just sent me some links to a group or
two doing Jacobite reenactment in the U.K.  It would be interesting to
compare costume notes <g>!

Cheers,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:51:27 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:10:33 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> Mom and I have had many a conversation, or complain-fest, about that look
> associated with the 'tough' gang boys. The pants are so loose that they
slid
> down, barely being held by the largest part of the rear. The crotch is
> somewhere around the knees. Then, because they are being worn improperly,
> the boys chop the bottom of the pants off, so they don't trip on the
things.
> These kids walk around with their boxers showing and can't do anything but
a
> snailpaced walk without losing their pants. I have seen these guys walking
> across the street with one hand on their pants to pull them back up with
> every step. Goodness, if they did end up in a fight, they'd lose simply
> because of their dumb fashion sense.

I can't stand this style personally. Doesn't it make you want to walk up to
these kids and just pull their pants down?!  I also don't care the 80s
ripped clothing (especially the t-shirts) or for the big spiral hair (with
the wings), huge hoop, bad make up, and bubble gum of the late 80s.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:55:01 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:14:28 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> huge hoop, bad make up, and bubble gum of the late 80s.

Oops. That was huge hoop earrings. It was popular to where them so they
touched the shoulder.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 19:51:37 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Version.32.19991210192525.00d79df0@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: H-COST: Need Book recommendation for 1600-1800's
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 19:10:43 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I have an aquaintence who is looking for recommendations for a Herbert
Norris type book for later periods 1600-1800s.  Anyone recomend one in
particular?

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/11/99 3:11:39 PM Central Standard Time, 
heather@herb-lore.com writes:

<<  Doesn't it make you want to walk up to
 these kids and just pull their pants down?! >>

Oh, yes.  I don't like that style.  When their pants are to long because of 
that or what ever reason my husand says they like the walk the couple of 
inches off instead of hem them.
I don't like the platform shoes either.  I am also getting sick of the women 
wearing shirts with their bras showing.  Plus neon colors.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 21:24:36 -0600
From: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>
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-Poster: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>

How I bill:
I do a consult: Determine if I am providing the fabric or if fabric is
provided. (I encourage them to purchase their own fabrics/trims etc).
If  I provide it, then I have to charge sales tax since it is considered
a retail sale if I provide the source materials.  If they buy the stuff
elsewhere and I simply create the clothing, then it is considered a
service.
Anyway, during the consult, I price everything, down to individual
buttons if need be, discuss everything in detail and have them sign a
contract that clearly states, any changes will change the agreed upon
price.
I request 50% down, and payments each fitting, with the last appointment
paid in full.  Make absolutely NO compromise on this one.  The only
times I have eaten the cost of something is when I have allowed someone
to not pay up front.  They almost always have an excuse why they can not
pay it on the agreed upon date if you aren't diligent in keeping to the
agreed contract.
It is not easy sometimes, especially if you are a sucker for a sad
story, I know this from experience....
If they start out at the beginning sort of whining about the price of
things, simply declare that perhaps they might like to think about it
for a while and show them the door.  Do not try to convince someone that
it is worth it, and don't listen to them complain.  If you have to, then
you will probably not have a good working relationship with this person
in the long run.
Some items are a set price, and some I still have to estimate.
I try to get $15.00 per hour (above any of my costs).  And I usually
come out close, although I still have a tendency to underestimate the
elaborate pieces.

Hope this helped

Linda
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 22:26:09 1999
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From: "Sandy McDaniel" <fretknot@home.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Clothing Mistakes.
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 21:40:10 -0700
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-Poster: "Sandy McDaniel" <fretknot@home.com>

I just spent 3 days in jury selection (wasn't chosen) during which I spent a
lot of time out in the hallways of the Courts bldg. There was much tooing
and froing of well-dressed women whose professions could be
discerned by skirt length: Classic style, knee length= attorney. Micro-mini,
current fashion= T.V. reporter.


"Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au> Wrote:
I agree about the wheel farthingale, but my alltime hate is the current
trend for Micro Mini skirts (as in Ally McBeal).

You have to have perfect legs to wear them and look good, but they are just
plain not business-like or professional for work wear (and yes - I know
people who do wear them for work).

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 23:48:01 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com> <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com> <004801bf4410$c91008e0$af57fea9@gunsafes> <001401bf4424$8c171e60$0101a8c0@f1>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 22:24:51 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> I can't stand this style personally. Doesn't it make you want to walk up
to
> these kids and just pull their pants down?!

Absolutely!  Both mom and I have done it to a couple of boys.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 08:21:26 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 08:33:53 -0600
From: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Not only that but have you ever tried to sit in one?  I wore mine once
(it is a cute suit, worse my mother bought it for me :}). Everytime I
stood up I knew I was flashing somebody. I found a new skirt and still
wear the jacket, but without an extention the skirt will never again
leave my closet.

Nic

Sandy McDaniel wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Sandy McDaniel" <fretknot@home.com>
> 
> I just spent 3 days in jury selection (wasn't chosen) during which I spent a
> lot of time out in the hallways of the Courts bldg. There was much tooing
> and froing of well-dressed women whose professions could be
> discerned by skirt length: Classic style, knee length= attorney. Micro-mini,
> current fashion= T.V. reporter.
> 
> "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au> Wrote:
> I agree about the wheel farthingale, but my alltime hate is the current
> trend for Micro Mini skirts (as in Ally McBeal).
> 
> You have to have perfect legs to wear them and look good, but they are just
> plain not business-like or professional for work wear (and yes - I know
> people who do wear them for work).
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 08:21:55 1999
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Well I do it to my own son, he picked a pair of them up somewhere and
when he brought them home he was warned. Needless to say he doesn't wear
them very often and never out in public with me.

Nic 

Michelle wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
> 
> > I can't stand this style personally. Doesn't it make you want to walk up
> to
> > these kids and just pull their pants down?!
> 
> Absolutely!  Both mom and I have done it to a couple of boys.
> 
> Michelle
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 09:20:37 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:52:47 -0600
From: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

>  I found a new skirt and still
> wear the jacket, but without an extention the skirt will never again
> leave my closet.
>
> Nic

Never say never.  Find yourself a cute 8 year old who wants a suit skirt the right
length.   I thought that full slips made fabulous evening dresses...

-Magdalena

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 16:54:39 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: "H-COST" <h-costume@indra.com>, "SCA-Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:06:59 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>





For those interested the long awaited reprint of _Fashion in the Age of the
Black Prince_ by Stella Marie Newton, has finally hit the book store
shelves.  I know some people have it backordered through Barnes and Noble.
I picked up my copy at Powell's on Saturday.  They have three copies left at
$35.  I looked at the B&N price, factored in the shipping cost, and decided
it was worth it to me to have it in my hot little hands NOW! :-)

Regina Romsey, OL

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 17:13:43 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: getting rid of year-end Inventory
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:32:55 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Hi guys,
I have several items that I am willing to part with for about 1/2 of the 
regular price, including mostly women's 18th century work clothing, infants' 
items, a few pairs of 18th c. women's shoes, and other basics.  If anyone is 
interested in perusing the list of items for sale, please e-mail me 
privately.  I will send a list back directly to you as an attachment (or if 
your e-mail provider does not like attachments, let me know and I will copy 
it directly into the body of the e-mail).  I would like to get rid of 
everything I can before the end of the year because in Virginia I have to 
pay tax on unsold items in my business inventory.

Thanks,
Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 17:46:31 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I'm teaching a friend to sew... we started by her watching my cut out
the ghost costume for her son at Halloween... and then I walked her
through sewing most of it (I did a tricky part).  I vocalized all my
tips & tricks and she told me later that she'd learned more from that
one session than all the sewing classes and other folx trying for years
to teach her to sew.  I must say... that really made my day!  I've had a
few friends take me up on the "no charge if I'm just helping you" offer
over the years... but most of them decide they don't *really* need the
costume, go elsewhere or ante up the money for me to "just do it!".

Kat
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Any average size women's 18th cen shoes?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 19:07:21 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Oops....didn't mean to clutter up the list with that one. Sorry.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 19:34:04 1999
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From: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume fashion mistakes
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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

The 70s.  I didn't like the clothing then as a kid, and I don't like it now.
You KNOW it's a bad fashion if 4 year olds are refusing to get dressed
'cause their clothers are so ugly.

Marsha/Madinia
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:00:58 1999
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From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com> <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com> <004801bf4410$c91008e0$af57fea9@gunsafes> <001401bf4424$8c171e60$0101a8c0@f1>
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

Okay, I have to jump in with my "yucky" list, too:

1.  The "style" of boys and girls who wear their pants longer than their
shoes, so they are stepping on the back of their pants legs, which
eventually shred, split and get trashy.  This is a major "hit" here in
Nothern VA among the mall crowd.

2.  Suffocatingly tight polyester girls' shirts and sweaters that bare
the midrif--this "look" is particularly gross when the midrif is bulging
out over the pants.  Makes it look like the girls are squashed sausage.

3. The new "peekaboo" underwear rage -- let your pants hang on your hips
so we can all ogle your boxers (girls do this, too).

And what is it with the colors now?  Everything in our "teens" or
"juniors" sections in the mall is fairly monochrome.  Its either all
khakis and browns or it is all blacks and greys.  Borrrr-ing.  The young
"in" crowd looks like lumps of day-old mashed potatoes or something the
rag bin threw up.  Give me women in tailored dresses a la' Grace Kelley
or men in linen or tweed suits a la' Cary Grant any day.

My two cents,
Jennie
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:09:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 20:45:03 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: taffeta?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>> > Do you have any idea if taffeta is a period fabric (for mid-1400s?)
>
>I would say yes.  It was sometimes known as shot silk.  Hmmm, I should
>say that changeable taffeta (aka shot silk) was period.  It is a simple
>plain weave, using one color for the warp and one color for the weft.
>Now, I don't have any documentation at my fingertips or even at arms
>length, but it seems to me, in my memory bank, that this is so.

I don't know about 15th century but there are numerous references in 16th
stuff to "chaungeble taffete" and "taffeta"  (lots of difference
spellings).  Try QE's Wardrobe or Lost From Her Majesty's Back or Stubbes.

Mind you I seem to remember seeing some 15th century Italian stuff in shot
textiles.  Oh, don't forget all the pictures of the ancestor's of Christ on
the ceiling/walls of the Cistine Chapel.  A large portion of them are
portrayed in shot texitle clothing.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:09:33 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 21:20:17 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 06:58  11/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by Boucher.
The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but it doesn't
have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me your opinion.
The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on page 230.  It
appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and down the skirt.
Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me it looks like the
line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look like beading to anyone
else?  Or what does it look like to you?
Andrea


Greetings,

I always thought that the trim was a slashed piping for lack of a better
description.  Kind of like what you see along the neckline of Elizabeth's
"phoniex portrait."  A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  It was labour
intensive but worked well.

Does anyone know of a larger colour copy of the portrait in Boucher?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:10:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume fashion mistakes
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/12/99 6:54:25 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
msmclean@interlog.com writes:

<< The 70s.  I didn't like the clothing then as a kid, and I don't like it 
now.
 You KNOW it's a bad fashion if 4 year olds are refusing to get dressed
 'cause their clothers are so ugly. >>
 

Looked bad then and looks even worse now that it has gone retro.  I get to 
see it every day on my college students who think they look divine in hideous 
print polyester.         

Cheryl
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 99-12-10 17:39:42 EST, you write:

> First off, thank you all for reading and responding to my initial question.
>  
>  The time period is 1600, the area is England. The person is a very, very
>  wealthy visiting merchant from Germany.  How would the sumptuary laws been
>  applied?

In 1600 you are at the end of Elizabeth I's reign.  She attempted through 
various proclamations during her reign to enforce the sumptuary laws as laid 
out under the reign of her father and her sister Mary, who preceded her as 
Queen of England. 
While I am still looking for a specific reference, it is my memory that in 
England the penalty for breaking sumptuary laws were stiff fines paid to the 
crown.   To what extent these laws would be applied to someone visiting or 
not, is another question.  My references suggest that the law was very 
difficult to enforce, even on the English themselves.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:58:19 1999
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 99-12-10 20:04:04 EST, you write:

> I catch the bus with a lady who wears them soo short that when she sits
>  down, she is not actually sitting on her skirt!
>  
And to top it off, she probably screams "harassment" if anyone happens to 
leer at her legs.  As far as I'm concerned, if you don't want it stared at, 
don't advertise it. 

Just my 2.5 cents.

Pamela D.
( who can't even think up her own snappy ending, but has to steal 
maggiess....rats!!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 21:34:07 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 19:54:08 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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References: <6451453.944858841946.JavaMail.imail@patti.excite.com> <385169EF.6B69A697@serv.net> <003b01bf43ce$2e8bc8a0$f8d7f4d1@pavilion>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

> Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
> already, why make it huge?

Well, for starters - with that huge bustle hanging behind you (think
1880's) no one can tell exactly how BIG *your* butt really is.  Like
Albert says, no one really buys that that huge extension is really flesh
any more than paniers or hoopskirts are.  Can you imagine someone really
being shaped like a hoop?

Carolyn (avowed bustle lover)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 21:35:39 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 22:48:33 -0500
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

We got to attend a sneak preview of this film last night, and the
costumes were quite drool-worthy, particularly those for the Siamese
king and his entourage.  WOW!  I loved Jodie Foster's outfits as well.
The tailoring was superb, and it looked like she had on all the correct
undergarments (you could tell she used two different corsets, and you
could see her chemise and corset cover through some of the gowns).  Her
ballgown was a major drool, though it might have been a bit fanciful as
far as fabric went--I'd have to see it again.  Her day dresses and hats
looked like they were lifted straight out of Godey's.

The movie was very beautifully done, though the story was a little on
the "mushy" side if you go in expecting a Yul Brenner type of king
(bold, strident, stubborn, but fun).  Still, the chemistry between
Foster and Yun-Fat was tangible and bittersweet--if a little weird.  If
for no other reason, go to see the robe the king wears when he and his
family are fleeing on the boat -- it's made of netting with fabulous
gold braided trim in a dazzling design.  Knocked my socks off. I'd
imagine this film will be up for some Oscars in the design category
(sets are splendid, too).

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com> <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com> <004801bf4410$c91008e0$af57fea9@gunsafes> <001401bf4424$8c171e60$0101a8c0@f1> <3854564C.F0B1B45C@rica.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Jennie Chancey wrote:

> And what is it with the colors now?  Everything in our "teens" or
> "juniors" sections in the mall is fairly monochrome.  Its either all
> khakis and browns or it is all blacks and greys.  Borrrr-ing. 

Weird - they just opened a new "Limited Too" store in the mall near my
office and everything there is either orange, bright yellow, hot pink or
lime green.  *Not* an improvement over browns, blacks and khakis, IMO. 
The place looks like a fruit stand gone amok.

My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
women - particularly as you get older.  I occasionally want to ask
people who have those tatoo necklaces done what they think it will look
like when they're 70 <shudder>.  At least piercing will grow back if you
let it.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 21:54:43 1999
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 07:59 PM 12/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>
>
>Jennie Chancey wrote:
>
>> And what is it with the colors now?  Everything in our "teens" or
>> "juniors" sections in the mall is fairly monochrome.  Its either all
>> khakis and browns or it is all blacks and greys.  Borrrr-ing. 
>
>Weird - they just opened a new "Limited Too" store in the mall near my
>office and everything there is either orange, bright yellow, hot pink or
>lime green.  *Not* an improvement over browns, blacks and khakis, IMO. 
>The place looks like a fruit stand gone amok.
>
I was wondering about that to.  A huge number of school kids come through
where I work, and I though bright colours seemed most typical.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 22:14:09 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Are you referring to those necklaces that look like tatoos?  These are a
stretchy plastic and choker length.  I am around a lot of teenagers <high
school and college> and haven't seen anyone with tatoos that look like a
necklace.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

> My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
> women - particularly as you get older.  I occasionally want to ask
> people who have those tatoo necklaces done what they think it will look
> like when they're 70 <shudder>.  At least piercing will grow back if you
> let it.
>
> Carolyn


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References: <19991028024646.39300.qmail@hotmail.com> <38546C8F.D9A7D71C@rica.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>


----- Original Message -----
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 10:48 PM
>
> We got to attend a sneak preview of this film last night, and the
> costumes were quite drool-worthy, particularly those for the Siamese
> king and his entourage.  WOW!  I loved Jodie Foster's outfits as well.

Ooh, ooh, I'm glad you posted this Jennie!   I'm sitting out here wrapping
up my shopping online and it reminded me of something I wanted to pass along
to everyone on the list. :-D

If anyone is in the Philadelphia area....Lord and Taylor's downtown
 they're on Market St. I believe(?)) will be giving away free tickets to the
movie tomorrow beginning at noon, and they'll have the actual ballgown on
display at the store.  =)

I may try to waddle into the city for a peek if I can find a pair of shoes
to fit my poor puffed up feet. ;-)

Enjoy!
Kerrie

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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 23:41:46 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/12/99 8:21:14 PM Central Standard Time, 
jchancey@rica.net writes:

<< Give me women in tailored dresses a la' Grace Kelley
 or men in linen or tweed suits a la' Cary Grant any day.
  >>

Oh, now that was a good style period.  I have AMC and love to watch the old 
movies for the fashion of them.  I live in a country setting and jeans or 
sweats with t-shirts are the norm.  People do dress up for Sunday Church 
though.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 03:12:01 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

According to the description on page 228 it is embroidered with pearls.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On



-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 06:58  11/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by Boucher.
The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but it doesn't
have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me your opinion.
The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on page 230.  It
appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and down the skirt.
Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me it looks like the
line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look like beading to anyone
else?  Or what does it look like to you?
Andrea



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 02:00:31 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 03:11:51 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

The King and his family fleeing??? This isn't the story I know.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jennie Chancey


-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

We got to attend a sneak preview of this film last night, and the
costumes were quite drool-worthy, particularly those for the Siamese
king and his entourage.    Still, the chemistry between
Foster and Yun-Fat was tangible and bittersweet--if a little weird.  If
for no other reason, go to see the robe the king wears when he and his
family are fleeing on the boat -- it's made of netting with fabulous
gold braided trim in a dazzling design.  Knocked my socks off. I'd
imagine this film will be up for some Oscars in the design category
(sets are splendid, too).

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 02:07:17 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 03:19:33 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

If you find the reference could you post it please? I'm trying to look up
some Sumptuary laws for that time.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On

-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 99-12-10 17:39:42 EST, you write:


In 1600 you are at the end of Elizabeth I's reign.  She attempted through
various proclamations during her reign to enforce the sumptuary laws as laid
out under the reign of her father and her sister Mary, who preceded her as
Queen of England.
While I am still looking for a specific reference, it is my memory that in
England the penalty for breaking sumptuary laws were stiff fines paid to the
crown.   To what extent these laws would be applied to someone visiting or
not, is another question.  My references suggest that the law was very
difficult to enforce, even on the English themselves.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 02:32:10 1999
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From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: sumptuary laws.
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-Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>

Can't remember the source, but I read somewhere that the sumptuary laws in
England (at least during Elizabeth's time) were just a form of indirect
taxation. Wear what you chose and pay the fine. Sounds a bit like my girl's
jeans day at school. Pay 50p and wear your jeans.
bye
Joy

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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:51:13 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

> --Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> 
> What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is the c.1830's
> American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in lace!
> And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps some
> women can carry this look, but I sure can't! 
> 
> Kate

Mine is those lateish 17th century petticoat-britches.... 
<shudder!>.  On their own they are bad enough but with the huge 
puff of shirt between the waist of them and the bottom of the 
"doublet" they are simply horrible.

Mind you, you never know what the "modern-eye" is going to 
interpret strangely.  On Saturday, I was in a 1630's suit (the group I 
don English Civil War re-enactment with were having a get-together 
in a pub in Southend-on-Sea) and the landlady of the guest-house 
we were staying in asked if we were "in drag" - must have been the 
lace around mu collar and cuffs....<g>.

At least the people we encountered in the twon itself recognized 
the period enough to call out things like "All for one and one for all".


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Now there is a nice period for clothing.  Touche :)

Nic

Teddy wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> > --Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> >
> > What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is the c.1830's
> > American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in lace!
> > And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps some
> > women can carry this look, but I sure can't!
> >
> > Kate
> 
> Mine is those lateish 17th century petticoat-britches....
> <shudder!>.  On their own they are bad enough but with the huge
> puff of shirt between the waist of them and the bottom of the
> "doublet" they are simply horrible.
> 
> Mind you, you never know what the "modern-eye" is going to
> interpret strangely.  On Saturday, I was in a 1630's suit (the group I
> don English Civil War re-enactment with were having a get-together
> in a pub in Southend-on-Sea) and the landlady of the guest-house
> we were staying in asked if we were "in drag" - must have been the
> lace around mu collar and cuffs....<g>.
> 
> At least the people we encountered in the twon itself recognized
> the period enough to call out things like "All for one and one for all".
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I loved this-thanks for sharing.


>
> -Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> Can't remember the source, but I read somewhere that the sumptuary laws in
> England (at least during Elizabeth's time) were just a form of indirect
> taxation. Wear what you chose and pay the fine. Sounds a bit like my
girl's
> jeans day at school. Pay 50p and wear your jeans.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 07:40:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 08:53:22 -0500
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

The story has been altered a bit, as you will see!  Quite different from
Anna Leonowens' diaries....  But the costumes are still fabulous!  ;-)

Connie Carroll wrote:

> -Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
>
> The King and his family fleeing??? This isn't the story I know.
>
> Kassandra
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jennie Chancey
>
> -Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
>
> We got to attend a sneak preview of this film last night, and the
> costumes were quite drool-worthy, particularly those for the Siamese
> king and his entourage.    Still, the chemistry between
> Foster and Yun-Fat was tangible and bittersweet--if a little weird.  If
> for no other reason, go to see the robe the king wears when he and his
> family are fleeing on the boat -- it's made of netting with fabulous
> gold braided trim in a dazzling design.  Knocked my socks off. I'd
> imagine this film will be up for some Oscars in the design category
> (sets are splendid, too).
>
> Cheers,
> Jennie Chancey
> --
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 07:40:41 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.1.32.19991212212017.009cb6f0@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:12:21 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

> Greetings,
>
> I always thought that the trim was a slashed piping for lack of a better
> description.  Kind of like what you see along the neckline of Elizabeth's
> "phoniex portrait."  A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
> what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  It was labour
> intensive but worked well.
>
> Does anyone know of a larger colour copy of the portrait in Boucher?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
Just out of curiousity, do you know what kind and what size ribbon?  I'm
still in the planning stage for this dress.

BTW, I've been doing an extensive search all week to find a color photo.
I've found nothing on the WWW and the only books of his work are out of
print.  The only picture by him that I've found in various Florentine art
books is the one of Leanora of Toledo,  Most of his work is displayed in the
Uffizi, but this one is in a tiny museum.  My sister, who did a semester in
Florence, had never heard of it.  Some time this week I will try to hit the
local University library.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 07:45:04 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEGEAPCAAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: H-COST: Sumptuary Law Ref: was Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:04:39 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

This is what I have found-I have the first one on my Christmas wish list, it
looks the most comprehensive.  This is from Amazon.com.

Governance of the Consuming Passions : A History of Sumptuary Law
Alan Hunt / Hardcover / Published 1996
Our Price: $59.95

Sumptuary Legislation and Personal Regulation in England
Frances E. Baldwin / Hardcover / Published 1994
Our Price: $24.50

Costume and conduct in the laws of Basel, Bern, and Zurich, 1370-1800
John Martin Vincent


>
> If you find the reference could you post it please? I'm trying to look up
> some Sumptuary laws for that time.
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 08:51:33 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: bustles
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I like bustles too. They don't make the behind look big -- they make the 
waist look small. I think they look(ed) great on large women!

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 10:34:08 1999
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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  > > A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity?
>  >
>  One vote for the huge wigs just prior to the French revolution.
>  Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
>  Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
>  already, why make it huge?

Another fashion error I had nearly forgotten about is the engraving I saw of
a court dress, empire waist with panne(sp?), which strongly resembled
wearing a twinbed mattress, sideways. It took me several minutes to recover
myself, I was laughing so hard.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 10:59:37 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 11:23:36 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> > Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late
> > 1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also like
> > the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]

Now, hang on!  I liked the grunge look!  It meant I really could wear
clothes from my bedroom floor to school, and didn't even necessarily have
to brush my hair!

(okay, so maybe not the look, but the benefits of it...)
Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 11:03:51 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

 A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
>> what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  It was labour
>> intensive but worked well.
>>
>>
>Just out of curiousity, do you know what kind and what size ribbon?  I'm
>still in the planning stage for this dress.
>

The Phoenix portrait shows the tabs around the neckline as aproximately 1"
wide, with a narrow gold edging on each edge. they appear to be of the same
fabric as the dress.   You could use ribbon, but self fabric tubes with
applied trim would also work and would probably be more appropriate.

I don't find tabs to be extremely time consuming, especially within the
overall context of the project.  I usually make up the tab material in long
strips and cut it to size after.

For slashed piping, I use bias strips and apply it like ordinary piping, but
without the cording.  Sometimes I use bias folds stitched on top of the
fabric, rather than inserted into a seam.  This is good when using it as
applied trim, such as multiple rows around a sleeve cuff or on an overskirt.
I slash it with scissors after it's sewn on.  Taffeta, silk, tightly woven
cotten, and other firm fabrics work well. 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 11:07:41 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

In my opinion, the hands down ugliest fashion is that worn by those Spanish
Infantas in the 17th centuy; 6'  wide panniered skirt that makd them look
like sofas, long waisted flatly corseted torso, and frizzed out hair with a
dog-show contest ribbon tacked on the side.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 11:32:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 11:50:04 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
In-Reply-To: <0.b6567a28.25831048@aol.com>
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 09:26 PM 12/10/99 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>The thing I can't stand is those Napoleon era men's collars that covered
>men's chins. I've seen a few in movies that made me think, "Oh -- so THAT was
>the idea." But I bet they were mostly hideous, like stretch pants so often
>are today. But to each his own -- I like those 1830s sleeves!
>
>Gail Finke
Speaking of the 1830s sleeves--I caught part of "Les Miserables", the movie 
with Liam Neeson & Geoffrey Rush, and the sleeves on some of those dresses 
weren't as large as the fashion illustrations portray them to be.   I 
started to wonder if the illustrators of that time (and any others) 
exaggerated proportions of certain details or body areas, i. e. the 
illustrators of today elongating the legs to get a more slender, taller 
look.  Could those sleeves have been exaggerated in the same way?  And what 
would that mean for the accuracy of those sources?

Just musing out loud--it's Finals Week here,
Doris

Doris Nash   Ames, IA
Feed hungry children around the world--free!  Visit 
http://thehungersite.com to find out how.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 12:09:53 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 13:26:19 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 12/12/1999 7:55:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
jchancey@rica.net writes:
<< Her  ballgown was a major drool, though it might have been a bit fanciful 
as
 far as fabric went--I'd have to see it again. >>
I've only seen clips, but it (the ballgown) looked almost too youthful to me. 
I'm guessing it didn't come across that way when given a better look.  Also, 
was it just me, or does Jodie Foster have the worst fake British accent of 
all time in that film?

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"All the world's a stage, 
and all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances; 
and one man in his time plays many parts."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 14:13:41 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Icelandic Nepalese Sherpa Socks
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 12:23:20 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


This is too silly not to share w/ an appreciative audience. I found a pair
of "Icelandic Nepalese Sherpa Socks" listed on REI's website. So what I
wanna know, is how the sherpas got from Iceland to Nepal.

http://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=46351&prmenbr=8
000

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 14:38:59 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: 2 Inventories!
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 12:56:59 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Please excuse the list posting --there were too many to write back to 
individually --

Hi guys,
Since most of you who wrote me about receiving my Year-End Inventory list 
prefer receiving the list in the body of an e-mail (not as an attachment), 
please look for an e-mail tonight from me --but I will be sending it from 
work, so it will be from a different e-mail address --I will put "Year-End 
Inventory" in the subject line.  I need to do it this way to save time 
--I'll be sending it out to everyone at once, directly to the e-mail address 
they gave me.
If anyone else is interested, I will continue to do the same over the next 
few days until everyone has been replied to.

btw, I *am* responding individually to everyone who is interested in the Old 
Store Stock (the other inventory sale I am involved with!), and I still have 
alot to respond to.  Bear with me, I promise you will hear from me very 
soon.
Thanks, everyone for your interest!

Susannah


>From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: getting rid of year-end Inventory
>Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:32:55 PST
>
>
>-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi guys,
>I have several items that I am willing to part with for about 1/2 of the
>regular price, including mostly women's 18th century work clothing, 
>infants'
>items, a few pairs of 18th c. women's shoes, and other basics.  If anyone 
>is
>interested in perusing the list of items for sale, please e-mail me
>privately.  I will send a list back directly to you as an attachment (or if
>your e-mail provider does not like attachments, let me know and I will copy
>it directly into the body of the e-mail).  I would like to get rid of
>everything I can before the end of the year because in Virginia I have to
>pay tax on unsold items in my business inventory.
>
>Thanks,
>Susannah
>
>"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
>  --William Morris
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>_________________________________________________________________
>To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 14:54:11 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
In-Reply-To: <0.54aa33e5.2586944b@aol.com>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Mon, 13 Dec 1999 MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 12/12/1999 7:55:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
> jchancey@rica.net writes:
> << Her  ballgown was a major drool, though it might have been a bit fanciful 
> as
>  far as fabric went--I'd have to see it again. >>
> I've only seen clips, but it (the ballgown) looked almost too youthful to me. 
> I'm guessing it didn't come across that way when given a better look.  Also, 
> was it just me, or does Jodie Foster have the worst fake British accent of 
> all time in that film?
> 
Nope. Mary Poppins was on here the other night. I think that honour
must surely go to Dick Van Dyck (sp?). OT I realise....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 15:22:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 13:39:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: New Italian Ren. fan
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

As as usually 14th-15th Century Anglo-Norman, I just
made and wore my first Italian Ren garb (actually, the
first garb I have ever personally made!).  It was not
strictly period; it was the Simplicity "Ever After"
pattern, but I fell in love with the full skirt, high
waist, and low neck (great for the "fuller" body type
and complemented one of my few good features!).  Now I
need directions to good books, web sites, movies, etc!
 I have "Ever After" and Zeferelli's "Romeo and
Juliet".  I don't need "strict" authenticity--just so
it looks pretty good.  Thanks.


=====
Morgaine of Glastonbury 
Barony of Aquaterra MoAS
Kingdom of An Tir
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

Don't take your organs to Heaven; Heaven knows we need them here.
__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 16:00:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 17:12:33 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/13/1999 12:28:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< In my opinion, the hands down ugliest fashion is that worn by those Spanish
 Infantas in the 17th centuy; >>

See....I love the Infanta's outfits! I mean she ain't gonna be playing hop 
scotch in it. She IS the Infanta after all.

Court clothes have a special purpose and, like haut couture [sp] need not 
follow any practical rules. It's for a kind of effect that's perhaps hard for 
us to understand today. Anyway the Infanta's stuff....like Queen Elizabeth in 
a French farthingale the size of a tractor tire, low low pointed bodice, 
heart shaped collar the size of Virginia, and her ankles showing, works for 
some reason.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 17:19:16 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:36:32 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

> I  started to wonder if the illustrators of that time (and any others)
> exaggerated proportions of certain details or body areas, i. e. the
> illustrators of today elongating the legs to get a more slender, taller
> look.  Could those sleeves have been exaggerated in the same way?
>  And what  would that mean for the accuracy of those sources?

>From my research, I know that the piccys were exaggerated.  The sleeves were
big - but not that big!

A great book for research on that type of sleeve is "Costume in Detail -
Womens Dress 1730-1930" by Nancy Bradfield.

She was the costume curator at one of the English costume galleries
(Chasleton House - I think - can't remember) and had access to a number of
actual garments.

In the book, it is all technical drawings (including some measurements) of
these garments.

The main idea behind those sleeves was to make the waist look smaller - and
if you look at a lot of illustrations of that period (and of Regency
immediately before) you will see that the proportions are obviously
exaggerated (for the Regency stuff - look at the men especially).    One of
my fave drawings of the time shows a woman with "gigot" sleeves so big that
the total width would have been about the same as her height - and with a
waist so small that she looked like she would snap in two!  Much the same
effect as a Barbie Doll!

Unfortunately, fashion illustrators tended to exaggerate (and still do) the
human form - as their main idea was to show the clothing.

A good book with lots and lots of fashion illustrations is "The File Art of
Fashion- An Illustrated History" by Julian Robinson (Bay Books - ISBN 1
86256 3020).  All the illustrations in it were taken out of actual fashion
books, and posters of the time - and it goes right up to the 70's (goes to
show that the age of the colour photo didn't stop illustrators after all)

They are good as sources - but you would have to translate things into "real
life" - just as one has to do with a number of costume books.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

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>

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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:36:45 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Sorry to take so long to get back re this one.

In Nancy Bradfield's book "Costume in Detail" , she has a photo of the
effify of QEI from the '30's whilst it was being cleaned.

She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last time
that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.

Hope that this helps.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 17:54:07 1999
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
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Subject: H-COST: 13c buttons
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>

I am about to start on my next project.....a blue velvet cotehardie.  I want to use silver buttons up the sleeves, and I need to know what kind of buttonhole was used.  Were they like our modern "shirtfront" style, or were they the loop kind, or perhaps something else?  This gown is going to be very special, so I want it to be right.
TIA

Linda

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 17:58:43 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I am about to start on my next project.....a blue velvet cotehardie.  I want to use silver buttons up the sleeves, and I need to know what kind of buttonhole was used.  Were they like our modern "shirtfront" style, or were they the loop kind, or perhaps something else?  This gown is going to be very special, so I want it to be right.

The button holes were regular buttonholes sewn using the button hole stitch.  At this time, they didn't have the rounded edge at each end.  Just a row of buttonhold stitch on each side of the cut.  And FWIW, your gown is 14th century.  :)  I love blue velvet, sounds gorgeous.  Is it cotton or acetate?  That determines whether or not you
cut the holes before or after you stitch them simply because the acetate ravels easily.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> In Nancy Bradfield's book "Costume in Detail" , she has a photo of the
> effify of QEI from the '30's whilst it was being cleaned.
> 
> She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last time
> that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.
While the hoops are from the 18th Century, the corset is from the 
early 17th C (contemporary with Elizabeth's death.) There is an 
article in a journal at the Westminster Abbey Library which discusses 
this. As Drea mentioned, Janet Arnold had something to do with it. 

However, I no longer have a copy of it that I can find and was unable 
to find a replacement copy the time to go to the WA Library when I 
was there. We didn't have time the day we went and it was closed when 
we went to do photography (as that is only allowed for a short period 
on Wednesday evenings.)

If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a 
number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on 
which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could 
probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 22:15:05 -0500
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

Jennie Chancey wrote:

> And what is it with the colors now?  Everything in our "teens" or
> "juniors" sections in the mall is fairly monochrome.  Its either all
> khakis and browns or it is all blacks and greys.  Borrrr-ing.

Weird - they just opened a new "Limited Too" store in the mall near my
office and everything there is either orange, bright yellow, hot pink or
lime green.  *Not* an improvement over browns, blacks and khakis, IMO.
The place looks like a fruit stand gone amok.

>>Having been a teenager in the late 80's i remember everything being
brightly colored and very complicated (i.e., polka dots, trim, lace where it
ought not to be) and it was a RELIEF for me when everything went black in
the early-mid '90s. i still love that simple uncluttered look.

My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
women - particularly as you get older.  I occasionally want to ask
people who have those tatoo necklaces done what they think it will look
like when they're 70 <shudder>.  At least piercing will grow back if you
let it.

>>this is a peeve of mine if folks are doing it for FASHION purposes. as a
multiple piercee i can tell you that even though they can grow back
together they do leave scars so its best NOT to plan on it being a temporary
"fashion" thing. as for when im 70 - they are for me and me alone. i'll only
take them out if they cause pain or if i look HIDEOUS. or maybe i'll show
them off just to scare everyone ;)
re: tattoos - i think the look is more popular than the reality. this
explains the plastic "tattoo" chokers and the popularity of mehindi (henna
body painting).

allison

Carolyn

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Subject: H-COST: Re: The King and I
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



RE: The King and I . . . or whatever they're calling it. They may have 
altered the story for the Jodie Foster pic, but they can't have altered it as 
much as they altered the musical for the cartoon film that was out this 
summer. From what I recall of the reviews, there were ninja-type bad guys, 
there was a chase in a hot air balloon, and there was only one son (a martial 
arts master sort of guy). The king and Anna got married, for all I know. I 
just couldn't bear to see it.

I wish people would just make up stories. Oops, wasn't that what the REAL 
Anna was supposed to have done?

Dying to see the costumes in this one!

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 21:32:06 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 19:52:13 -0800
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
> 
> As as usually 14th-15th Century Anglo-Norman, I just
> made and wore my first Italian Ren garb (actually, the
> first garb I have ever personally made!).  It was not
> strictly period; it was the Simplicity "Ever After"
> pattern, but I fell in love with the full skirt, high
> waist, and low neck (great for the "fuller" body type
> and complemented one of my few good features!).  Now I
> need directions to good books, web sites, movies, etc!
>  I have "Ever After" and Zeferelli's "Romeo and
> Juliet".  I don't need "strict" authenticity--just so
> it looks pretty good.  Thanks.

There's not much I can recommend in the movie category (although my
personal favorite is Zefferelli's "Taming of the Shrew", but the
background costumes are better than the star's). "Dangerous Beauty" has
some good costumes on the background players as well but ignore what the
prostitutes are wearing.

Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
illustrated.  For cheaper books, try finding the Riverside series on
various artists - I can recommend the one on Carpaccio.  There's also a
good book out called "Renaissance Portraits" by Lorne Campbell that has
some nice stuff (I've made the red dress on the jacket cover that was
painted by Raphael).

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 22:36:23 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Um, ok, I have both piercings & tattoos. Have had them since the '80s days of
polka dots. Why exactly does that peeve you? It's a personal statement. The fact
that it's permanent IS the statement. I think the all-black uniform is very
convenient for those who aren't confident of their color-combining skills.
How is this related to historic costume?
I'm sorry but, this is beginning to be really OT.
~Lisa

 i still love that simple uncluttered look.

>
> My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
> women - particularly as you get older.  I occasionally want to ask
> people who have those tatoo necklaces done what they think it will look
> like when they're 70 <shudder>.  At least piercing will grow back if you
> let it.

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Subject: Re: H-COST: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

Has anyone else noticed that most of the peeves are from the last 20 years
or so?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 02:55:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 04:31:57 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
In-Reply-To: <001401bf4424$8c171e60$0101a8c0@f1>
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com>
 <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>> A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity?

Symmetrical shoes.  My big toe is the longest, so why is the pointy part
adjacent to my middle toe?  And why do shoes have to be pointy in the first
place?  And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
buy them?

snip

>I can't stand this style personally. Doesn't it make you want to walk up to
>these kids and just pull their pants down?!  

No - up! 

snip

Can you imagine someone really
>being shaped like a hoop?

I know a couple of women shaped like bum rolls.  In bum-roll-period dresses
they look splendid, but in modern clothes they look unfortunately butt-heavy.  

snip

>My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
>women - particularly as you get older.  

If one wears sunscreen, the tattoos don't fade or get blurry.  If one takes
care of one's skin, it doesn't get wrinkly or sun-damaged and it, or
anything on it, looks better longer.

I had to choose the position of my first tattoo very carefully so I could
do Victorian eveningwear without it showing.  Likewise, any piercing I have
has to pass costume approval anywhere I do living history - by not showing
when I am historically dressed.

Some tattoos/piercings makes one look, as the Victorians would say, like
'mutton dressed as lamb'.  Some are things only a kid would do.  Others are
less inappropriate for us older folks.  For example, my teenager is
contemplating getting her lip pierced, trendy for that age group, but her
friends all think my pierced eyebrow is 'cool'.

snip

>> > Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the
late
>> > 1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also 
>like
>> > the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]
>
>Now, hang on!  I liked the grunge look!  It meant I really could wear
>clothes from my bedroom floor to school, and didn't even necessarily have
>to brush my hair!
>
>(okay, so maybe not the look, but the benefits of it...)

Somebody making fun of Hippies again?  I thought we invented the ripped
jeans look.  Or maybe it was the Landsknechts in the early 1500's, who also
invented tops slashed full of holes.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


How could I forget!  Peasecod bellies!  i hate them!  I also hate 
groups that insist if you're doing a costume from that 
period/participating in an event set in that period , you *have* to 
have a peascod belly on your doublet because *everybody* wore 
them!!

I know of at least one painting showing men both with and without 
peasecod's.  Even if the painting didn't exist, *nothing* will make 
me believe that *everybody* in any period followed all the current 
fashions.  There will *always* be people who take the attitude of, "I 
don't care how fashionable it is, it looks silly and I'm not wearing it!"


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 07:19:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:37:52 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: fashion drawing exaggerations
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I think you've got to take ALL contemporary drawings, paintings, etc. with a 
grain of salt when it comes to both costume and the human form. There are a 
few exceptions, of course, and some times were more exaggerated than others. 
But (to generalize) all artists are depicting "ideal" people (or 
less-than-"ideal" people) and that's what they draw. Thus you'll often find 
some parts of illustrations to be quite accurate, and others not. Think of 
those long, thin, gothic hands and feet, for instance; or 15th-century 
proportions; or heads in Renaissance portraits (which are frequently missing 
a lot of brain matter); or 1840s fashion plates that show women with tiny 
pointy feet and shoulders that slope so much that they would have no shoulder 
blades if they were real. All show the aesthetic of the time -- tall, thin 
people; small waists and large shoulders; emphasis on the face and not on the 
hair; small feet and sloping shoulders. They give you the "feel" of the 
style. But none show what people ACTUALLY looked like -- any more than 
illustrations in pattern catalogues today show what the garments will really 
look like on people with normal proportions!

Gail Finke

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: 1830s sleeves (was Ugly fashion frivolities)
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I too have always thought that 1830s ladies' fashion plates looked ridiculous, with the enormous sleeves and little knots of hair on top of the head.
However, here in the UK we currently have Mrs. Gaskell's "Wives and Daughters" on TV, in which the fashionable characters are wearing such styles, and I agree with Megan that, actually made up, they don't look so bad.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:37:43 -0500 (EST)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
In-Reply-To: <199912140158.RAA17060@eclipse.pacifier.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> > 
> > She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last time
> > that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.
> While the hoops are from the 18th Century, the corset is from the 
> early 17th C (contemporary with Elizabeth's death.) There is an 
> article in a journal at the Westminster Abbey Library which discusses 
> this. As Drea mentioned, Janet Arnold had something to do with it. 
> 
> However, I no longer have a copy of it that I can find and was unable 
> to find a replacement copy the time to go to the WA Library when I 
> was there. We didn't have time the day we went and it was closed when 
> we went to do photography (as that is only allowed for a short period 
> on Wednesday evenings.)
> 
> If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a 
> number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on 
> which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could 
> probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)

Yes, yes!! I would be eternally grateful for any info on that article! In
fact, we might be able to work out some sort of exchange...replica pinking
tools, or carnelian beads,  or silk cloth of gold...

Thanks,

Drea (no, I'm not desparate) Leed
 

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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: The King and I
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:00:28 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I
> RE: The King and I . . . or whatever they're calling it. They may have 
> altered the story for the Jodie Foster pic, but they can't have altered
it as 
> much as they altered the musical for the cartoon film that was out this 
> summer. From what I recall of the reviews, there were ninja-type bad
guys, 
> there was a chase in a hot air balloon, and there was only one son (a
martial 
> arts master sort of guy). The king and Anna got married, for all I know.
I 
> just couldn't bear to see it.
> 
> I wish people would just make up stories. Oops, wasn't that what the REAL

> Anna was supposed to have done?
> 
> Dying to see the costumes in this one!
> 
> Gail Finke

Just last night on the Family channel, there was a special about Anna and
the King.  Seems that 80% of her adventures were questionable.  She wrote a
book called The English Governess in Siam (?)  or something like that.  It
was another woman who wrote the story Anna and the King and that is the
story we know.

Ann Leonowens was a remarkable woman and her books about life in the
Siamese Court are some of the only records of life there.  Even though the
biographers on the program disputed the truthfulness of her stories, they
praised her for pluck and determination for making herself a place in a
difficult world.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 08:33:46 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Italian Ren. fan
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:03:31 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> There's not much I can recommend in the movie category (although my
> personal favorite is Zefferelli's "Taming of the Shrew", but the
> background costumes are better than the star's). "Dangerous Beauty" has
> some good costumes on the background players as well but ignore what the
> prostitutes are wearing.
> 
> Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
> volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
> illustrated.  For cheaper books, try finding the Riverside series on
> various artists - I can recommend the one on Carpaccio.  There's also a
> good book out called "Renaissance Portraits" by Lorne Campbell that has
> some nice stuff (I've made the red dress on the jacket cover that was
> painted by Raphael).
> 
> Carolyn

Rent 'Artemisia'.  French with American subtitles, adult theme, nudity,
fabulous costumes.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 08:46:10 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:15:53 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> > > She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last
time
> > > that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.

In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
a later time as well?

> > If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a 
> > number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on 
> > which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could 
> > probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)
> 
> Yes, yes!! I would be eternally grateful for any info on that article! In
> fact, we might be able to work out some sort of exchange...replica
pinking
> tools, or carnelian beads,  or silk cloth of gold...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea (no, I'm not desparate) Leed


Yes, Yes!!  I would also be interested, but not as desperate as Drea.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 08:53:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 4:10:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
 And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
 buy them? >>

The disposable era!
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 4:10:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< but her
 friends all think my pierced eyebrow is 'cool'. >>

This position is coverable in period dress?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 08:55:30 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/13/1999 11:56:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
martyr@gti.net writes:

<< Why exactly does that peeve you? It's a personal statement. >>

Yes, it screams "I do what everyone else does!" or "I'm trashy"...to most 
people.
Even piercing your ear can be dangerous. If the cartilage gets 
infected...good-bye ear! [lobes are pretty safe] And 50 year old tattoos are 
all ugly. "Mommy...why does Grandma have those blue green marks on her calf?" 
[that's right....make sure you're tattoo goes with varicose veins]

There...I'm finished with the topic.
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:18:14 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1830s sleeves (was Ugly fashion frivolities)
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 9:32:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:

<< However, here in the UK we currently have Mrs. Gaskell's "Wives and 
Daughters" on TV, in which the fashionable characters are wearing such 
styles, and I agree with Megan that, actually made up, they don't look so bad.
  >>

Yes. The 1st time I saw a real 1830s dress I was very pleasantly surprised. 
The sleeves were full but the dress was light & delicate and nothing was 
exaggerated. The whole effect was delightful.
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

K & J Hopkins wrote:
> 
> Just last night on the Family channel, there was a special about Anna
> and the King.  Seems that 80% of her adventures were questionable. 
> She wrote a book called The English Governess in Siam (?)  or
> something like that.  It was another woman who wrote the story Anna
> and the King and that is the story we know.

Darn! I wish I hadn't missed it!  Maybe they'll show it again... on a
historical note... one of my husbands relatives of that period was the
woman who was fired just before Anna was hired... seems she kept trying
to convert the King's children to Christianity.... rather forcefully.

Kat
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'benrumson@worldnet.att.net'" <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Italian Frescos-was New Italian Ren. fan
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:27:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>


<<Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
illustrated. >>
Do you know the ISBNs, or authors?  I am looking for a reproduction of a
fresco "Pope Celestinus III Grants Privilege of Independence to the
Spedale", by Domenico di Bartolo, 1443.   I know it is in RENAISSANCE DRESS
IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London & Humanities
Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg 57). (Part of
THE HISTORY OF DRESS SERIES)-but I haven't been able to find it.
If you want to look at what I am talking about-see
http://www.tiac.net/users/drbeer/joyce/ferrets/frhistpg.htm

Thanks 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 09:19:44 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: Debra Douglass <ddoug@mediaone.net>

On 12/13/1999, on h-costume@indra.com, Allison Thurman wrote: 
 >>re: tattoos - i think the look is more popular than the reality. this
 >>explains the plastic "tattoo" chokers and the popularity of mehindi (henna
 >>body painting).

At least mehndi is temporary. You can get a 'choker' mehndi tattoo and
know that it will not last.

-Debra Douglass
-- 

.------------------------------------------------------------------.
|   No flames were thrown in the creation of this email message.   |
|-----------------------------.------------------------------------'
|Debra Douglass                \ 
|ddoug@mediaone.net             \ 
|http://ghatti.ne.mediaone.net   \  
`---------------------------------`
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 09:26:04 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
> mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
> that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
> a later time as well?

It's hard to tell. The drawers (which are not like any "bloomers" 
I've seen) are tubes of fabric with a waistband. Even in the postcard 
they give you can see that there is no way that the waistband (which 
has a button which ought to attach to something and looks like it 
should attach to the other side of the waistband) not only doesn't 
meet in front but ends on each hip making a deep V in the front. They 
look like something someone put on it to "make the woman at least 
somewhat decent" in a much later time.)

There is also a little bit of linen peeking out from under the top 
of the corset (but interestingly enough, not at the bottom. Just 
plaster between the bottom of the corset and those silly drawers.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 09:48:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> Has anyone else noticed that most of the peeves are from the last 20 years
> or so?

Looks like I was wrong...


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 09:59:07 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s8565450.052@csv6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1830s sleeves (was Ugly fashion frivolities)
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I have found that in studying fashion, everytime I say I can't stand a
certain period or fashion... guess what I end of working with or
researching????  You know what?  When you really get into studying why a
certain fashion was wore, you start to appreciate it.  I used to not like
bustle dresses.  I helped set up an exhibit with many bustle dresses.  Now,
I have a great respect for women who had to put such a vast amount of
clothing and contraptions.  I never liked corsets... I had to build eight
corset stands for exhibit.  I never cared for "the Royalities of the
World"... now I am a dresser for the Di gown.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 10:04:03 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 11:20:46 -0500
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

	Well, my 'peeves' are people who decide that their way of dressing is the
right way and the most pleasing to look at. It is really unacceptable to do
anything to anyones pants, period. Can you imagine a person who wears his
pants hanging off going up to someone who was wearing their pants at the
waist and pulling them down? If they have chosen to dress that way, so be
it. And as to following trends mindlessly, I think MOST people try to wear
clothes that look like the other guy's, whether it be Cary Grant or a person
you see on the bus. And wearing unusual clothes having to do with scarves or
artistic jewelry dosn't count as unique. I don't mean to offend anyone, but
I know I have been offended.
		Kristen

Kristen Gee, Lurker
kristen.gee@linkpa.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 10:15:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 11:34:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #857
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-Poster: STRAUSS@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU

The NY Times has a great article, today (12/14) on primitive
figures and weavings/clothing.

Bob

====================================================================
Bob Strauss                                      Cataloger
Hunter Library                                   Western Carolina U.
strauss@wcu.edu
Class home page:    http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss
Personal home page: http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss/personal
====================================================================
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 10:21:58 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Amen!  I for one have a tattoo and ears pierced in several places.  I am not trashy.
Judging people by their outsides just proves that some people have ugly insides.  Who
cares if I have an old ugly tattoo when I'm 70?  What do you care if my ear scars?
Sheesh!  At least I have my sight, my hearing, my limbs, and my mind!  And last but
not least, my heart.  Cynthia

>         Well, my 'peeves' are people who decide that their way of dressing is the
> right way and the most pleasing to look at. It is really unacceptable to do
> anything to anyones pants, period. Can you imagine a person who wears his
> pants hanging off going up to someone who was wearing their pants at the
> waist and pulling them down? If they have chosen to dress that way, so be
> it. And as to following trends mindlessly, I think MOST people try to wear
> clothes that look like the other guy's, whether it be Cary Grant or a person
> you see on the bus. And wearing unusual clothes having to do with scarves or
> artistic jewelry dosn't count as unique. I don't mean to offend anyone, but
> I know I have been offended.
>                 Kristen
>
> Kristen Gee, Lurker
> kristen.gee@linkpa.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 10:49:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:03:53 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

18th.hoop petticoat on effigy of Elisabeth.
I have seen pictures of this and i just wondered if there were farthingales
shaped this way
in the 16.th century.
Could this be the kind of farthingale called a semi-cirkeled farthingale?

Bjarne in Copenhagen.

aleed skrev:

> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
> > >
> > > She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last time
> > > that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.
> > While the hoops are from the 18th Century, the corset is from the
> > early 17th C (contemporary with Elizabeth's death.) There is an
> > article in a journal at the Westminster Abbey Library which discusses
> > this. As Drea mentioned, Janet Arnold had something to do with it.
> >
> > However, I no longer have a copy of it that I can find and was unable
> > to find a replacement copy the time to go to the WA Library when I
> > was there. We didn't have time the day we went and it was closed when
> > we went to do photography (as that is only allowed for a short period
> > on Wednesday evenings.)
> >
> > If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a
> > number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on
> > which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could
> > probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)
>
> Yes, yes!! I would be eternally grateful for any info on that article! In
> fact, we might be able to work out some sort of exchange...replica pinking
> tools, or carnelian beads,  or silk cloth of gold...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drea (no, I'm not desparate) Leed
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 11:29:24 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:48:08 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

The sources I have for these shoulder capes worn over the dress is that they
were most commonly made of velvet or fur.  Does anyone know of a reference
or picture that shows something a little lighter-like linen?  I will be
wearing it in sunny Arizona, and would like the option of something cooler.
Thanks in advance

Sg
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 11:37:45 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Inventory records of 16th century spanish settlers /sailors/soldiers in
St. Augustine, Florida, refer to capes and cloaks made of linen, fustian
and wool-linen blends. The records are listed 
in the book "Richer Than We Thought:  Material Culture of 16th century St.
Augustine", by Eugene Lyons.

The German inventories of the time that I've read through only list wool,
velvet, fur (lining) and silk.

Hope this helps,

Drea



 On Tue, 14 Dec 1999, Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)
wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> The sources I have for these shoulder capes worn over the dress is that they
> were most commonly made of velvet or fur.  Does anyone know of a reference
> or picture that shows something a little lighter-like linen?  I will be
> wearing it in sunny Arizona, and would like the option of something cooler.
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Sg
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
>mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
>that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
>a later time as well?
>
No, the drawers ("bloomers" is a 19th century term)  are thought to be
original.  Women's underpants were not common in England at the time, but
they did exist.  

Margo


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 07:43 AM 12/14/1999 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com
>
>
>> In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
>> mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
>> that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
>> a later time as well?
>
>It's hard to tell. The drawers (which are not like any "bloomers" 
>I've seen) are tubes of fabric with a waistband. Even in the postcard 
>they give you can see that there is no way that the waistband (which 
>has a button which ought to attach to something and looks like it 
>should attach to the other side of the waistband) not only doesn't 
>meet in front but ends on each hip making a deep V in the front. They 
>look like something someone put on it to "make the woman at least 
>somewhat decent" in a much later time.)

the "crotchless" drawers of the time make sense if you considerthat their
purpose may have been, not to conceal the crotch area, but to protect the
inner thighs from chafing.  As for the waistband not meeting, they may have
been an older pair that had not been worn in some time. We know that
Elizabeth's measurements increased later in life.  Since comfort isn't an
issue when dressing an effigy, the fact that the drawers didn't fit properly
probably wasn't much of a problem.

Margo  


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 11:52:03 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:16 AM 12/14/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>I have found that in studying fashion, everytime I say I can't stand a
>certain period or fashion... guess what I end of working with or
>researching????  You know what?  When you really get into studying why a
>certain fashion was wore, you start to appreciate it. 

Yes!  I used to think that the late Elizabethan drum farthingale was the
most hideous thing ever;  Now, well, I wouldn't say I think that it's
pretty, but is has a certain style, and the challenge of making it look good
appeals to me.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 12:11:48 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Book: Italian Frescoes
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:29:02 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


><<Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
illustrated. >>
>Do you know the ISBNs, or authors?

_Italian Frescoes_, vol.2 is sub'd "The Flowering of the Renaissance".
Steffi Roetgen.  Book has excellent production values. Megabooks, Palo Alto
has it at $109.  They didnt have V.1.

>"Pope Celestinus III Grants Privilege of Independence to the Spedale", by
Domenico di Bartolo, 1443. 

Your pic would be in vol I, frescoes before 1470.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:47:41 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

OF course, some of those peascods cover bellies that are really shaped like
that!  

> ----------
> From: 	Cynthia Virtue[SMTP:cvirtue@thibault.org]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Saturday, December 11, 1999 3:24 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
> 
> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> 
> Peascod bellies on Elizabethan men's jackets.  Time for the men to look
> as if they are pregnant, finally!
> 
> --
>   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
>        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:59:47 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

You're talking about a "gollar" I presume.  Try making it up in a
light-weight wool lined with silk.  Many are very simple, and the lining
doesn't always show. Or of course, save the garment until late
afternoon/early evening.  

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)[SMTP:SKNAUF@apsc.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 14, 1999 9:48 AM
> To: 	'h-costume@indra.com'
> Subject: 	H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> The sources I have for these shoulder capes worn over the dress is that
> they
> were most commonly made of velvet or fur.  Does anyone know of a reference
> or picture that shows something a little lighter-like linen?  I will be
> wearing it in sunny Arizona, and would like the option of something
> cooler.
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Sg
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 12:44:36 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:58:20 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1830s sleeves (was Ugly fashion frivolities)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  I have found that in studying fashion, everytime I say I can't stand a
>  certain period or fashion... guess what I end of working with or
>  researching????  

*snip*

*GRIN*
Yes, that's very true. I used to think the Empire fashions were something
I'd look like an over-stuffed sausage in, and that they were 'icky'.
However, now that I've made a couple . . . ;)

While the actual 'look' of the 1830s sleeve is certainly much different than
the fashion drawing (having done a very short stint at such, I do know the
difference!) I still don't like 'em. So, I guess it's just a matter of time
before I make one. *sigh*

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 13:00:54 1999
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Message-ID: <385697B6.ECE0E6DE@thibault.org>
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:22:27 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - shoes
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com>
	 <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com>
	 <004801bf4410$c91008e0$af57fea9@gunsafes> <4.1.19991213035446.00b8def0@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> place?  And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
> And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
> buy them?

This is my favorite commentary on cheap shoes (or cheap anything, for
that matter):

[...from] Terry Pratchett, a sf/fantasy writer, who writes
marevelously.  Most of his stuff is funnier than the following, but
I'm illustrating a point.   Captain Vimes is in the City Watch. 

         The reason the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned,
     was because they managed to spend less money. 
         Take boots, for example.  He earned thirty-eight
     dollars a month plus allowances.  A really good pair
     of leather boots cost fifty dollars.  But an affordable
     pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or
     two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard
     gave out, cost about ten dollars.  Those were the kind
     of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the
     soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in
     the city on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles. 
         But the thing was that good boots lasted for years
     and years.  A man who could afford fifty dollars had a
     pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten
     years' time, while a poor man who could only afford
     cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on
     boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

         This was the Captain Samuel Vimes "Boots"
     theory of socioeconomic unfairness.

--
It wasn't until the astonishing success of Dicken's _A Christmas Carol_
that the holiday had any significant place in the English-speaking
world.  Easter was considered much more significant.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 13:06:00 1999
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Tue, 14 Dec 1999, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> 
> [...from] Terry Pratchett, a sf/fantasy writer, who writes
> marevelously.  Most of his stuff is funnier than the following, but
> I'm illustrating a point.   Captain Vimes is in the City Watch. 

	Pratchett also makes a good point regarding style that relates to this
thread. 

	"The Monks of Cool live in a small and exclusive Monestary high in the
Ramtop Mountains.  Before taking their final vows, novices are taken by a
senior monk to a room full of all sorts of clothing.  The senior monk says to
them "Yo, my son which outfit here is the most stylish?", to which the correct
reply is "Hey, what ever I select"

-Katie
	

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Date: 14 Dec 99 13:24:29 MST
From: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Supplies help
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-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

I am currently working on my 12th night/yule festival/new year's eve dress. 
It is a great red velveteen Italian Ren with snowflakes beaded all over the
sleeves.  The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread the
lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  I know I have seen
women with this style of closure but I've never seen them in stores or on the
web.  I am located in Arlington Virginia and but I would prefer to find them
on the web.

Thanks for any help you can give me....

Orlaith of Storvik

but...WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD?
FOX MULDER: You saw it cross the road with your own eyes. How many more
chickens have to cross before you believe it?




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:10:30 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Supplies help
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Have you tried  http://www.lacis.com/?   I know they sell grommets in
several sizes, I am not sure how small you want them.

-----Original Message-----
From: Orlaith [mailto:orlaith@usa.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 1:24 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Supplies help



-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

I am currently working on my 12th night/yule festival/new year's eve dress. 
It is a great red velveteen Italian Ren with snowflakes beaded all over the
sleeves.  The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread the
lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  I know I have seen
women with this style of closure but I've never seen them in stores or on
the
web.  I am located in Arlington Virginia and but I would prefer to find them
on the web.

Thanks for any help you can give me....

Orlaith of Storvik

but...WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD?
FOX MULDER: You saw it cross the road with your own eyes. How many more
chickens have to cross before you believe it?




____________________________________________________________________
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 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:27:48 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

For "lacers" for your Ren style, try www.patternsoftime.com

Katrin
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:32:18 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Excuse me?
You're finished are you? Thank you for sparing us.
I am somewhat speechless here-are you actually implying that I am trashy because
I have tattoos???!
Mister, I don't know who you are but you are WAY out of line here. Way.
Now you are flat-out insulting any of us on this list who have tattoos &
piercing.
And I am also confident that my tattoos will be just as beautiful when 90 as they
are now.

~Lisa

Yes, it screams "I do what everyone else does!" or "I'm trashy"...to most
people.And 50 year old tattoos are all ugly. "Mommy...why does Grandma have those
blue green marks on her calf?"[that's right....make sure you're tattoo goes with
varicose veins]

>
> There...I'm finished with the topic.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:41:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 19:48:04 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sumptuary laws.
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

> >
> > Can't remember the source, but I read somewhere that the sumptuary laws in
> > England (at least during Elizabeth's time) were just a form of indirect
> > taxation. Wear what you chose and pay the fine.

This is still the case in the 18thc and it seems that people broke the
laws to prove that they were rich enough to pay the fine
>

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:41:37 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Susannah Eanes wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
> 
> Please excuse the list posting --there were too many to write back to
> individually --
> 
> Hi guys,
> Since most of you who wrote me about receiving my Year-End Inventory list
> prefer receiving the list in the body of an e-mail (not as an attachment),
> please look for an e-mail tonight from me --but I will be sending it from
> work, so it will be from a different e-mail address --I will put "Year-End
> Inventory" in the subject line.  I need to do it this way to save time
> --I'll be sending it out to everyone at once, directly to the e-mail address
> they gave me.
> If anyone else is interested, I will continue to do the same over the next
> few days until everyone has been replied to.
> 
> btw, I *am* responding individually to everyone who is interested in the Old
> Store Stock (the other inventory sale I am involved with!), and I still have
> alot to respond to.  Bear with me, I promise you will hear from me very
> soon.
> Thanks, everyone for your interest!
> 
> Susannah
> 
> >From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: H-COST: getting rid of year-end Inventory
> >Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:32:55 PST
> >
> >
> >-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Hi guys,
> >I have several items that I am willing to part with for about 1/2 of the
> >regular price, including mostly women's 18th century work clothing,
> >infants'
> >items, a few pairs of 18th c. women's shoes, and other basics.  If anyone
> >is
> >interested in perusing the list of items for sale, please e-mail me
> >privately.  I will send a list back directly to you as an attachment (or if
> >your e-mail provider does not like attachments, let me know and I will copy
> >it directly into the body of the e-mail).  I would like to get rid of
> >everything I can before the end of the year because in Virginia I have to
> >pay tax on unsold items in my business inventory.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Susannah
> >
> >"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
> >  --William Morris
> >
> yes please

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:02:37 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 11:24:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kristen.gee@linkpa.com writes:

<< I don't mean to offend anyone, but
 I know I have been offended. >>

Sorry, dear. Of course you may dress as you please. But it is a fact that if 
you chose, say, to put a plate in your lip or bind your feet, in this society 
you must put up with some staring and turning up of noses. It's your choice.

 When you find a society that does not judge you, at least partly, by your 
appearance, let us know. Until then, you'll have to put up with it. Everyone 
else does.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:16:34 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 11:42:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< Who
 cares if I have an old ugly tattoo when I'm 70?  What do you care if my ear 
scars?>>

Well, if you don't, I certainly don't.

 <<Sheesh!  At least I have my sight, my hearing, my limbs, and my mind!  And 
last but
 not least, my heart.  Cynthia >>

And so do I. But if you re-read my post you will see that I said that "Most 
people think" it's looks trashy. This is true at this point in time 
regardless of how PC anyone wants to get.

I can wear a wig and a wedding dress to book signings if I want but to expect 
everyone to be blasé about it is just not realistic.

Your righteousness is misdirected. I want you to dress the way you please. 
But I'm not everyone......not by a long shot. And I don't have to pretend I 
like it.

Sheesh!
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 1:15:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< Yes!  I used to think that the late Elizabethan drum farthingale was the
 most hideous thing ever; >>

I use to think T-shaped tunics were the worst. Then I had to cut a million of 
then for "Macbeth". How beautiful they can be! The endless draping 
possibilities and the variety one can achieve from such a simple cut!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:23:28 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 3:50:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
martyr@gti.net writes:

<< Mister, I don't know who you are but you are WAY out of line here. Way.
 Now you are flat-out insulting any of us on this list who have tattoos &
 piercing.
 And I am also confident that my tattoos will be just as beautiful when 90 as 
they
 are now. >>

No, I'm not and no I didn't.

Take a chill pill.
and good luck with your tattoo.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:47:34 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:05:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>


>Sorry, dear. Of course you may dress as you please. But it is a fact that
if
>you chose, say, to put a plate in your lip or bind your feet, in this
society
>you must put up with some staring and turning up of noses. It's your
choice.

>When you find a society that does not judge you, at least partly, by your
>appearance, let us know. Until then, you'll have to put up with it.
Everyone
>else does.


	My e-mail was not intended to imply that I had a problem with how people
dress, but about yours and others reactions to how others dress. You
obviously misunderstood me. Let me make myself more clear: What if those in
our society who choose to wear what you consider unusual fashions were to
stare and turn up their nose at YOU when you considered yourself dressed
normally and decently? They would be rude of course, and so would you if you
did the same to them. Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person with
a disability? Of course not. The fact that someone is different should not
open them up to ridicule and rebuke, unless they are doing something that is
harmful to YOU. That is my point. And by the way, I am not offended for
myself, but offended that rational and mature people could be so petty and
juvenile.

Kristen Gee, unlurker
kristen.gee@linkpa.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:50:21 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

I have read the average life of a list is 18 months.  The death knell is 
usually due to intolerance.  Please, let's not ruin a great list with 
arguments.

Live and let live.

Katrin
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 15:38:02 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

It's the Holiday Season..... can we just change the subject - please.
Thanks
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
>Date: Tue, Dec 14, 1999, 3:05 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
>
>
>>Sorry, dear. Of course you may dress as you please. But it is a fact that
>if
>>you chose, say, to put a plate in your lip or bind your feet, in this
>society
>>you must put up with some staring and turning up of noses. It's your
>choice.
>
>>When you find a society that does not judge you, at least partly, by your
>>appearance, let us know. Until then, you'll have to put up with it.
>Everyone
>>else does.
>
>
> My e-mail was not intended to imply that I had a problem with how people
>dress, but about yours and others reactions to how others dress. You
>obviously misunderstood me. Let me make myself more clear: What if those in
>our society who choose to wear what you consider unusual fashions were to
>stare and turn up their nose at YOU when you considered yourself dressed
>normally and decently? They would be rude of course, and so would you if
you
>did the same to them. Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person
with
>a disability? Of course not. The fact that someone is different should not
>open them up to ridicule and rebuke, unless they are doing something that
is
>harmful to YOU. That is my point. And by the way, I am not offended for
>myself, but offended that rational and mature people could be so petty and
>juvenile.
>
>Kristen Gee, unlurker
>kristen.gee@linkpa.com
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 17:21:46 1999
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/99 11:34:23 PM !!!First Boot!!!, rlshep@home.com 
writes:

<< It's the Holiday Season..... can we just change the subject - please.
 Thanks
 ~!~ R.L.Shep >>


I am inclined to agree.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 18:00:08 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 19:18:02 -0500
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

Sure-sorry. I think I've made my point anyhow. I apologize for any upset
this might have caused.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Fopdejour1@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 6:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes



-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/99 11:34:23 PM !!!First Boot!!!, rlshep@home.com
writes:

<< It's the Holiday Season..... can we just change the subject - please.
 Thanks
 ~!~ R.L.Shep >>


I am inclined to agree.

Chas
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 18:00:20 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

(Funny, usually I say this to my kids)

I don't care WHO started it, I want it to STOP!  NOW!

Santa Claus is watching you, you know.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 18:23:22 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

> Yes please-let us return to historic costume.

> ~Lisa

>
> << It's the Holiday Season..... can we just change the subject - please.
>  Thanks
>  ~!~ R.L.Shep >>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 18:33:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:48:36 -0600
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-Poster: Vicki Betts <vbetts@gower.net>

Is _Costume & Dressmaker:  The Magazine for Serious Costumers_ still
being published?  If so, what is the most recent issue number?

Thanks!

Vicki Betts

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 19:23:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:38:45 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  I don't care WHO started it, I want it to STOP!  NOW!

*raises a guilty hand* 

B-but I just wanted to know who thought what was the height in silly
fashions . . .!

*WHIMPER*
  
>  Santa Claus is watching you, you know.

*shift gears*

I've seen some lovely holiday cards with Santa, Father Christmas, etc. on
them in various garb, the most stunning of which is a heavy fur coat (looks
like bear) over a midnight blue robe embroidered with silver snowflakes. I
think this was a Victorian creation, but was there ever a 'Santa'
historically with such an outfit? And wouldn't a presentation of historical
Santas be stunning? 

*sound of evil plots hatching*


Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com 
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 20:56:05 EST
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 6:06:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kristen.gee@linkpa.com writes:

<<  Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person with
 a disability? Of course not. >>

Who choses to have a disability?

And being gay, I know very well what you are talking about. But if I was 
offended at every remark or unthinking person, I'd spend my life being 
offended.

But you see, I'm not stupid or unthinking. Which brings me to my next 
post...... [which is about costuming, BTW]
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 7:43:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
martyr@gti.net writes:

<< > Yes please-let us return to historic costume. >>

Yes....and discuss tattoos instead of emoting over them.

Where do they come from? Why in Western culture should they have a negative 
connotation? I find this interesting.

Surely most of the cultures of the world at some point in their history 
employed with acceptance tattoos as decoration. How did it become 
unacceptable at the Junior League or UDC? 

Association with "primitive" cultures? Association with sailors [who got them 
in "primitive" cultures]?

How does it relate to something like long hair & beards on men? [which seems 
to oscillate from OK to not OK....more so than tattoos....or does it?]

Or is this anthropology, not costuming?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:12:43 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.2.0.58.19991213114327.00a48240@djnash.mail.iastate.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Was ugly clothes, now Anne of Cleves
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:53:27 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> Just musing out loud--it's Finals Week here,
> Doris

Wheeew!  Glad to see I am not the only one in a panic!
....and back to costuming. I am making plans for after Christmas.

   Has anyone made a copy of the dress Anne of Cleves wore for the betrothal
portrait?  I can see that it is a combination overdress with underdress but
I wanted pointers, especially what *not* to do. ;)
    There is some details specific to her hat in the Herbert Norris, Tudor
Costume book but, information on the dress itself is lacking.  Has anyone
found any sources that gives details on how to do that style of dress? I
have Period Patterns #46, German Puff and Slash, though I haven't attempted
to modify it yet. I also have Patterns 3, if someone sees something I
didn't.

Thanks!
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:12:48 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991214202429.21995.qmail@nwcst291.netaddress.usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Supplies help
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 21:32:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Warning.... blatant plug for myself to follow  :)

We are just finalizing out complete online catalog/shopping cart and out
text
price list now contains links to photos of most of our listed items. Once
complete, we
will also have all our laces and trims shown, books and additional corset
supplies that have yet to finish arriving.

We'd be happy to help you and answer any questions. We have various sizes
and styles of
grommets in stock. We also are an authorized distributor for one of the
Norwegian pewter companies, with a full line of clasps offered in eye/hook,
hook/hook and eye/eye combinations.

The main site is at http://GranndGarb.com

The Clasps can be found at:  http://granndgarb.com/page2.shtml
The Grommets, Eyelets and such can be found at:
http://granndgarb.com/page5.shtml

Regards,

~Kyna
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
info@granndgarb.com
http://granndgarb.com

>
> -Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
>
> I am currently working on my 12th night/yule festival/new year's eve
dress.
> It is a great red velveteen Italian Ren with snowflakes beaded all over
the
> sleeves.  The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread
the
> lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  I know I have
seen
> women with this style of closure but I've never seen them in stores or on
the
> web.  I am located in Arlington Virginia and but I would prefer to find
them
> on the web.
>
> Thanks for any help you can give me....
>
> Orlaith of Storvik


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:29:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 19:54:29 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

I have heard that Philip of Spain created a set of sumptuary laws which
greatly restricted the styles and fabrics the Spanish could wear,
ironically just as the riches and fabrics from the Orient and the New
World were really getting available. This was sited as the cause for the
somewhat somber appearance  of many of the Spanish nobility (as if being
Spanish weren't enough to be somber about! JUST KIDDING! My RenFaire
character is a typically xenophobic Elizabethan Englishwoman).

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:29:20 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: carnation
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

My understanding is that it is actually the color of raw flesh, which
could be understood as a deep shade of pink, I suppose, depending on the
flesh in question!


Karen

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999 08:30:41 EST Gaelscot@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> I love all those color names too, but they can be misleading. 
> Carnation was, 
> I believe, a sort of dried blood color, not a pink. Boy, I wish the 
> Color 
> Marketing Group and the other so-called color "forecasters" would 
> make up 
> names like that today!
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:29:23 1999
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

Oh Teddy, I'm so sorry I missed you in full Cavalier! It must have been
fabulous! Next time I'm over, I want to see moer of your stuff!!!

Karen

On Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:51:13 +0000 (GMT) Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> writes:
> 
> -Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> > --Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> > 
> > What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is the 
> c.1830's
> > American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in 
> lace!
> > And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps 
> some
> > women can carry this look, but I sure can't! 
> > 
> > Kate
> 
> Mine is those lateish 17th century petticoat-britches.... 
> <shudder!>.  On their own they are bad enough but with the huge 
> puff of shirt between the waist of them and the bottom of the 
> "doublet" they are simply horrible.
> 
> Mind you, you never know what the "modern-eye" is going to 
> interpret strangely.  On Saturday, I was in a 1630's suit (the group 
> I 
> don English Civil War re-enactment with were having a get-together 
> in a pub in Southend-on-Sea) and the landlady of the guest-house 
> we were staying in asked if we were "in drag" - must have been the 
> lace around mu collar and cuffs....<g>.
> 
> At least the people we encountered in the twon itself recognized 
> the period enough to call out things like "All for one and one for 
> all".
> 
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/99 7:57:44 PM Central Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< Why in Western culture should they have a negative 
 connotation? I find this interesting. >>

I know for me personally the main reasoning is Biblical.  It would have to be 
about destorying the temple of your body.  I personally, noticed I said I 
personally, don't like tatoos and wouldn't get one.  I also don't like pain 
and needles.  I know people who have them but I don't think they look nice.  
I do have my ears pierced once and think that is enough also.  I know tatoos 
and multiply piercings are seen as a sign of rebellion by lots of people in 
the Church and the area where I live.  I live in the midwest, Illinois.  I 
don't not like someone if they chose to have these but I just wouldn't want 
one.  I have kids and we are raising them to not want to have tatoos.  If 
they did I wouldn't stop loving them.  
I also don't like very low cut outfits or real short dresses either.  I don't 
like to see underclothes through an outfit either.  
In the US I wonder if tatoos also were considered bad or to shy away from 
because of the feelings some had of Indians and their warpaint?  Maybe it 
made them think of that and then think voilent people?  Just wondering.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:37:55 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

I will tell you why Albert. It stems back to the '30s when tattoos became popular
with sailors. Yes, just like Popeye. The tattoos back then were very clumsy,
heavily outlined & in the old-style "mom"/"I love Suzi" cartoon effect and no,
not very attractive by modern standards. Unfortunately, the needles were usually
not sterilized and, yes sailors also had a tendency to pick up STDs as well as
tattoos and had a reputation for being a generally rowdy, vulgar, offensive
bunch. This negative image of tattoos and drunken, STD-laden sailors from the
'30s remains in the American consciousness even now. Plus since the '30s other
anti-social groups such as bikers and street gangs have also used tattoos to
engage the "bad-ass" image associated with tattoos. Today, tattooing is literally
a form of graphic art. You apprentice as a tattoo artist & it can be a lucrative,
rewarding career for those with the talent and drive. The equipment is much more
sophisticated now and the super fine, high tech needles can produce
photo-realistic images right on the skin. People get tattoos for various reasons.
Most people I know with tattoos thought out and planned what they wanted to get a
long time in advance and hold dear the images they have permanently etched onto
their flesh. There is a non-specific spirituality and comraderie among tattooed
people. Tattoos can be painful and the new technology has made them much more
expensive-but it's well worth it. Piercings are different a non-permanent form of
body art that has become a side-offering at many tattoo shops because they both
involve modifying the body and a fair amount of pain. Actually, the *latest* body
modification, for the truly brave is this tribal style body scarification,
involving cutting the skin and sometimes inserting foreign objects such as beads
or rings *under* the skin and fakir-inspired pain rituals. I saw one girl being
hung up like meat-dangling from hooks embedded into the skin on her back. From
what I saw one night on one of the 20/20 type TV show, the danger aspect is what
makes the scarification so appealing and the "rush" of absolute pain which
stimulates an endorphin high.
This is how I know I'm getting old-even this is rather disturbing to me.
But compared to this, isn't tattooing pretty tame?
That's my manifesto for tonight.
Thanks for reading,
~Lisa

>
> Where do they come from? Why in Western culture should they have a negative
> connotation? I find this interesting.
>
> Surely most of the cultures of the world at some point in their history
> employed with acceptance tattoos as decoration. How did it become
> unacceptable at the Junior League or UDC?
>
> Association with "primitive" cultures? Association with sailors [who got them
> in "primitive" cultures]?
>
> How does it relate to something like long hair & beards on men? [which seems
> to oscillate from OK to not OK....more so than tattoos....or does it?]

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:45:10 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> -Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> 
> 18th.hoop petticoat on effigy of Elisabeth.
> I have seen pictures of this and i just wondered if there were farthingales
> shaped this way
> in the 16.th century.
> Could this be the kind of farthingale called a semi-cirkeled farthingale?
> Bjarne in Copenhagen.

These were known to have been made in the 18th century (as there are 
notations for the cost of their construction). The style is also 100% 
18th century.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> >It's hard to tell. The drawers (which are not like any "bloomers" 
> >I've seen) are tubes of fabric with a waistband. Even in the postcard 
> >they give you can see that there is no way that the waistband (which 
> >has a button which ought to attach to something and looks like it 
> >should attach to the other side of the waistband) not only doesn't 
> >meet in front but ends on each hip making a deep V in the front. They 
> >look like something someone put on it to "make the woman at least 
> >somewhat decent" in a much later time.)
> 
> the "crotchless" drawers of the time make sense if you considerthat their
> purpose may have been, not to conceal the crotch area, but to protect the
> inner thighs from chafing.

These are *not* crotchless drawers. Crotchless drawers I've seen. 
Although it could have been a very old pair (or one belonging to 
someone else), they look like an older vintage than the types of 
underwear (men's and women's) in drawings, paintings and extant from 
the 16th and 17th century.


>  Since comfort isn't an
> issue when dressing an effigy, the fact that the drawers didn't fit properly
> probably wasn't much of a problem.

Very obviously not!

 
Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:47:18 1999
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Date: 14 Dec 99 21:06:59 CST
From: Barbara Corley <Tigershadow@netscape.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [H-COST: Supplies help]
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-Poster: Barbara Corley <Tigershadow@netscape.net>

<html>
<body>
Dragonfly Design has some at http://DragonflyDesignStudio.com/Pages/Frame=
7.html
I can't remember where else I've seen them.
Barbara

Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net> wrote:

 The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread the
lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  =

<br>
<BR>
<HR noshade width=3D"90%">
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at <a href=3D"=
http://webmail.netscape.com" target=3D"top">http://webmail.netscape.com</=
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</body>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:53:56 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Then, for the truly butch, there is the traditional Hawai'ian method,
which I saw on some PBS program a while back, involving black dye and
sharpened bamboo sticks, with lots of driving the bamboo into the
client, to get the ink/dye to penetrate beneath the skin.  Major pain,
but as the traditional style apparently dovetails with traditional
religious practice, it's for a purpose.

--
It wasn't until the astonishing success of Dicken's _A Christmas Carol_
that the holiday had any significant place in the English-speaking
world.  Easter was considered much more significant.
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: "H-COST" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

Also dedicated to those who are thinking of starting a costuming business!

Happy Holidays, and Many Blessings

Regina Romsey

Murphy's Laws of Sewing (Anonymous) Passed to me by a friend who works for
Janzen Sportswear as a pattern maker

Fusible interfacings always fuse to the iron
The serger only eats the customer's garment.
If you need 6 buttons, you will find 5 in your button box.
The seam you meant to rip out is invariably the other one.
When you are in a hurry, the needle eye is always too small.
The fabric you forgot to pre-shrink will always shrink the most.
The pattern you wanted to make again will have one key piece missing.
If you drop something our of your sewing basket, it will be your box of
pins... with the cover off.
Whenever the construction process is going well the bobbin thread runs out.
The magnitude of the goof is in direct proportion to the cost of the fabric.
Your lost needle will be found by your son, husband or brother-in-law...
while walking around barefoot!
Facings tend to be sewn to the wrong side (Opposite sides attract).
Collar points don't match, and you've trimmed all the seams.
The iron never scorches the garment until its final pressing.
Pants seams always rip where they are the most noticeable.
The steam iron only burps rusty water on light silk fabric.
The sewing machine light usually burns out on Sunday.
Pinking shears get dull just by looking at them.
Gathering threads always break in the middle.
The scissors cut easiest past the buttonhole.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 21:06:53 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991213205700.17969.qmail@hotmail.com> <38571F1B.B58@virgin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: 2 Inventories!
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:49:02 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Susannah,
   Why not just go ahead and post them to the list?  Send them out once and
get everyone, remotely interested included, at the same time.
  I know it isn't exactly list appropriate but, I think everyone will
welcome the change of topic, thus overlooking the 'advertising.'

Michelle


> > please look for an e-mail tonight from me --but I will be sending it
from
> > work, so it will be from a different e-mail address --I will put
"Year-End
> > Inventory" in the subject line.
> > btw, I *am* responding individually to everyone who is interested in the
Old
> > Store Stock (the other inventory sale I am involved with!), and I still
have
> > alot to respond to.  Bear with me, I promise you will hear from me very
> > soon.
> > Thanks, everyone for your interest!
> >
> > Susannah
> >
> > >From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 21:18:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:31:29 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
In-Reply-To: <009101bf4574$1343da40$ab55f4d1@pavilion>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Just out of curiousity, do you know what kind and what size ribbon?  I'm
>still in the planning stage for this dress.

I believe it was regular 1"(? - the one which is about finger width), and I
think she used plain satin.  I saw it 2 years ago so the details have faded
a bit. <g>

>BTW, I've been doing an extensive search all week to find a color photo.

If you do find it please let me know - it's been my dream gown for years
and years and years!

Cheeers,
Danielle

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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:35:32 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: ugly fashion frivolities
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

   I know it's partly a cultural & modern bias on my part, but: 1)
foot-binding and the attendant footwear associated therewith, 2) some
African tribes' customs [different peoples these] of wearing those huge
lip-plugs, and ear-plugs [the Aztecs/Incas/Mayas one also wore these, I
think] or of adding necklaces/neck-torcs to elongate the womens' necks.  I
know it's my own personal bias, but these customs have looked just plain
wrong to ME since I first saw depictions of each of them.  I know that in
their own times/cultures these fashions were and in some cases still are
highly thought of. That's just 'jewelry'--I won't start on wearing apparel.
{wry grin} -- Carol
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:46:20 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: WAS: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes : NOW: Piercing of the
  tongue, in particular
In-Reply-To: <0.ea271b23.2587b7d1@aol.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

martyr@gti.net writes: Why exactly does that peeve you? It's a personal
statement. >>
    Albertcat wrote:Yes, it screams "I do what everyone else does!" or "I'm
trashy"...to most people. Even piercing your ear can be dangerous. If the
cartilage gets  infected...good-bye ear! [lobes are pretty safe] And 50
year old tattoos are all ugly. 
                   Carol here:  On the topic of piercing, I will add one
point.  My daughter came home with her tongue pierced.  I was less than
thrilled, but the next day, when we visited our family MD, she asked my
daughter when and where she had the procedure done.  My daughter told her.
After which, our physician informed my daughter that had the person doing
the piercing 'missed' by less than a centimeter, my daughter could have
ended up with her tongue paralyzed for life.  There is a major nerve that
runs through it, you see, and if the piercing hits that, it's all she
wrote, baby.  End of topic for me. 
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 20:10:13 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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To: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
CC: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian Frescos-was New Italian Ren. fan
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" wrote:
> 
> <<Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
> volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
> illustrated. >>
> Do you know the ISBNs, or authors?  I am looking for a reproduction of a
> fresco "Pope Celestinus III Grants Privilege of Independence to the
> Spedale", by Domenico di Bartolo, 1443.   I know it is in RENAISSANCE DRESS
> IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London & Humanities
> Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg 57). (Part of
> THE HISTORY OF DRESS SERIES)-but I haven't been able to find it.
> If you want to look at what I am talking about-see
> http://www.tiac.net/users/drbeer/joyce/ferrets/frhistpg.htm

You probably won't be able to find Herald - I've been looking for
*years* for a copy.

The first volume of the Frescoes books is called "Italian Frescoes - The
Early Renaissance" by Steffi Roettgen, ISBN 0-7892-0139-9.  But this
frescoe isn't in it.  I know I have it in color in another book - let me
look and get back to you.

Carolyn
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:14:19 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/13/99 11:23:38 AM Central Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< 
  A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
 >> what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  >>

Can anyone point me to a picture of this gown?  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Kelly-

>         I believe you are right that some people associate tattoos & even
> piercings with things that have historically threatened polite, Christian
> society & family values-Native Americans' war paint, "violent" savages both
> here & abroad in Africa, Asia; then later the sailors, the bikers, punk rockers
> etc. This is why it is so visually striking & connote "rebellion," &
> anti-social behavior. It just disturbs some people-even on this list it's
> caused some rather harsh disagreement & is viewed by some as just hideously
> wrong. I think demographics & the culture within those demographics also play a
> role in why certain individuals are instinctively turned off by most
> manifestations of tribal spirit such as tattoos, bikers, punk rock in the '70s,
> rap in the '80s, etc. I don't know why this is. I guess with me the acceptance
> of tattooing is pretty much due to the fact that I live very close to NYC &
> have hung out in the East Village since age 13. Even in NYC, tattoos are all
> the rage in the Village but on the Upper West Side they are not so popular. But
> to those of us who accept tattooing as "ok" it just becomes another form of
> personal expression. Portraits of children, parents, pets, are very popular
> among tattoo people.

Have a good night!
~Lisa

> .



>
> In the US I wonder if tatoos also were considered bad or to shy away from
> because of the feelings some had of Indians and their warpaint?  Maybe it
> made them think of that and then think voilent people?  Just wondering.

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tattoo history/theories
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:18:45 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

I work for the U.S. Army Recruiting Battalion in Portland, Oregon.  Our
"area" includes the Pacific, including Hawaii, and American Samoa (how many
people out there knew that Samoa is as much an American holding as Puerto
Rico?  I didn't until I took this job. The people there are considered
American citizens, and have American passports.)  The U.S. Military is _the_
way off the islands for young people so many of them plan to go in the whole
time they are growing up.  Since Army regs forbid tattoos showing while you
are in uniform, those who choose to keep up the traditional tattooing plan
for it.  I had one soldier who was reportedly tattooed over his entire body
except what would show when he had on a Vee neck T shirt and knee length
shorts.  I once saw him without his shirt at the battalion picnic, and it
was the most incredible artwork of swirls and dots you have ever seen!  His
were all done with native dyes and sharp bamboo "combs".
    When we were in New Zealand one of the books we saw in a friends house
was a history of the Maori featuring some of the most amazing facial
tattoos!
    I suspect Americans have always considered tattooing as "barbaric".
Didn't some of the Eastern tribes do facial tattooing as well as "war
paint"?

Regina Romsey, OL

> -----Original Message-
> Subject: H-COST: Tattoo history/theories
>
>
>
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
> Then, for the truly butch, there is the traditional Hawai'ian method,
> which I saw on some PBS program a while back, involving black dye and
> sharpened bamboo sticks, with lots of driving the bamboo into the
> client, to get the ink/dye to penetrate beneath the skin.  Major pain,
> but as the traditional style apparently dovetails with traditional
> religious practice, it's for a purpose.
>
> --
> It wasn't until the astonishing success of Dicken's _A Christmas Carol_
> that the holiday had any significant place in the English-speaking
> world.  Easter was considered much more significant.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Italian Frescos-was New Italian Ren. fan
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:32:47 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

   I know it is in
> RENAISSANCE DRESS
> > IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London
> & Humanities
> > Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg
> 57). (Part of
> > THE HISTORY OF DRESS SERIES)-but I haven't been able to find it.
> > If you want to look at what I am talking about-see
> > http://www.tiac.net/users/drbeer/joyce/ferrets/frhistpg.htm
>
> You probably won't be able to find Herald - I've been looking for
> *years* for a copy.

You want to really cry?  I got my copy of Herald for $8.50 because it had
been remaindered.  I bought only two more copies to use as gifts, and let it
go at that!

Regina Romsey, OL
>

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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> > RENAISSANCE DRESS
> > > IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London
> > & Humanities
> > > Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg
> > 57). (Part of
> > You probably won't be able to find Herald - I've been looking for
> > *years* for a copy.
>
> You want to really cry?  I got my copy of Herald for $8.50 because it had
> been remaindered.  I bought only two more copies to use as gifts, and let
it
> go at that!
>
> Regina Romsey, OL

That wasn't nice. ;(  I have been looking too. My library doesn't even have
the book in it's catalog, I can't even borrow the thing!

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 01:11:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:35:36 -0800
Subject: H-COST: Tattoos
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I can tell you that from a traditional Jewish view people are created in the
image of God and should not be mutilated - or whatever term you want to use
for it.
The is one of the major reasons why the Nazi's tattooed Jews in the
concentration camps - to humiliate them.
 Personally have seen some very interesting tattoos in other cultures:
Japanese, Tahitian, Berber, etc. - but I would not choose to do that to my
own body.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:17:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:30:38 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


><< but her
> friends all think my pierced eyebrow is 'cool'. >>
>
>This position is coverable in period dress?

I am old enough to be wearing a cap for almost any period I do, and some
other kind of head wrap for those periods not having a cap.  This, and the
fact that the piercing mostly hides behind my glasses frames, keeps things
looking fine.  I thought of that before I got the piercing, and had it
positioned accordingly.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:18:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:26:15 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
>mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
>that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
>a later time as well?

"Bloomers" show up in Mary, Queen of Scots's inventories.  I would not be
surprised to find them in Elizabeth's.  Anybody out there have access to
any of her inventories?


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:48:20 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: they wear different clothes (was Re: H-COST: re: clothing
  mistakes)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Amen!  I for one have a tattoo and ears pierced in several places.  I am not 
>trashy.
>Judging people by their outsides just proves that some people have ugly 
>insides.  Who
>cares if I have an old ugly tattoo when I'm 70?  What do you care if my ear 
>scars?
>Sheesh!  At least I have my sight, my hearing, my limbs, and my mind!  And 
>last but
>not least, my heart.  Cynthia
>
>>         Well, my 'peeves' are people who decide that their way of dressing 
>is the
>> right way and the most pleasing to look at. 

I figure the worst that can happen is that I look my age and my teenage
daughter looks hers.  After all, I was a Hippie, and we looked pretty
strange to our parents.  If it wasn't OK for them to laugh then (disagree,
yes; laugh, no) then it isn't OK for me to laugh now. 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:18:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:23:06 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: fashion individualists
In-Reply-To: <7A10B95079@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

There will *always* be people who take the attitude of, "I 
>don't care how fashionable it is, it looks silly and I'm not wearing it!"

Certainly there were period reasons for not wearing the peascod belly
doublets, but can anyone quote me one?  Stubbes ought to have an opinion
here, but I don't have a copy.  

My curiosity is about the level of fashion individualism in this period.  I
know we in the 1990's wear pretty much what we like, or we do in California
anyway.  But our reasons for not liking something aren't necessarily their
reasons for not liking it or not wearing it.  Are there, in fact, *always*
such fashion individualists?  Or is there another reason why those who
didn't wear it didn't?


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:18:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:43:13 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>You're talking about a "gollar" I presume.  Try making it up in a
>light-weight wool lined with silk.  Many are very simple, and the lining
>doesn't always show. Or of course, save the garment until late
>afternoon/early evening.  

If you line with silk, make sure it's not slippery/shiny silk - or the
thing will slip off and end up on the ground all the time.  That or make
one which fastens in the front.


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:47:28 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - shoes
In-Reply-To: <385697B6.ECE0E6DE@thibault.org>
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com>
 <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>> place?  And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
>> And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
>> buy them?
>
>This is my favorite commentary on cheap shoes (or cheap anything, for
>that matter):

The way I've always heard it put is "Cheap (whatevers) aren't."  I usually
buy my shoes at the Thrift store, wear them the rest of the way out, and
buy another pair.  I lucked into a good pair of boots, the kind which were
expensive when new, and these I keep repaired because I can.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:23:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:39:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>The sources I have for these shoulder capes worn over the dress is that they
>were most commonly made of velvet or fur.  Does anyone know of a reference
>or picture that shows something a little lighter-like linen?  I will be
>wearing it in sunny Arizona, and would like the option of something cooler.
>Thanks in advance

If Germany had been Arizona, the Germans would have done things a little
differently.  It wasn't.  So either do it just like they did, and pray for
snow, or do it differently, and wear it all Summer.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:23:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:32:55 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: footbinding (was Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

or bind your feet, in this society 
>you must put up with some staring and turning up of noses. It's your choice.

Avoiding foot binding was never a choice in this country if you were female
and born before Birkenstocks became mass-market available.  It's always
been about too-narrow shoes with pointy toes.  My feet are permanently
deformed because that's the way women's shoes were built, and are still
built.  It wasn't my choice, especially since going barefoot was prohibited
in those same schools to which I was compelled, by law, to attend.  

When I was in high school (middle 60's), wearing men's round-toed white
tennis shoes for gym instead of the painfully shaped women's pointy-toed
ones got me stared at and got noses turned up in my direction.  Wearing
comfortable European foot-shaped shoes like Birkenstocks is still not
acceptable interview wear, nor are these perceived as acceptable when worn
with a woman's business suit.  Business casual, yes; business suit, no.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:25:09 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: New Italian Ren. fan
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 03:40:07 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Copies do surface from time to time. I got mine at a SCA event 10 years ago.
The lady managed to get ahold of 15 copies. I would suggest to keep seaching
bookstores online and off.

Kassandra


-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> > RENAISSANCE DRESS
> > > IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London
> > & Humanities
> > > Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg
> > 57). (Part of
> > You probably won't be able to find Herald - I've been looking for
> > *years* for a copy.
>
> You want to really cry?  I got my copy of Herald for $8.50 because it had
> been remaindered.  I bought only two more copies to use as gifts, and let
it
> go at that!
>
> Regina Romsey, OL

That wasn't nice. ;(  I have been looking too. My library doesn't even have
the book in it's catalog, I can't even borrow the thing!

Michelle



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:25:23 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: The King and I
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 03:40:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Yes, she was a remarkable woman but what the movies don't tell you is once
the King died and his son became he never communicated with Miss Leonowens.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----


Ann Leonowens was a remarkable woman and her books about life in the
Siamese Court are some of the only records of life there.  Even though the
biographers on the program disputed the truthfulness of her stories, they
praised her for pluck and determination for making herself a place in a
difficult world.

Kathlene


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:28:26 1999
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>I know for me personally the main reasoning is Biblical.  It would have to be 
>about destorying the temple of your body.  

One of the many things I don't understand about your religion is why
tattoos are destroying the temple of one's body, and ear piercing, common
among women of the period in which that book was written, is not.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:37:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:50:42 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Tattoos seem to be much more acceptable in Northern California than they
ever have been.  I am seeing more of them this year than I did last year.
Many clean cut and otherwise normal-looking young people are getting them.
Many otherwise normal-looking not-so-young people are getting them too.
Tattoo calenders are now sold in mainstream places like Barnes and Noble -
at least two different ones, as I recall.  Some real art is going into
tattoo design.  I think the popular perception of tattooed people as
automatically being trashy or scary is changing.  (At the same time,
fetishwear is coming out of its closet and going mainstream, and not being
perceived as something to hide or be embarrassed about.)

>Kelly-
>
>>         I believe you are right that some people associate tattoos & even
>> piercings with things that have historically threatened polite, Christian
>> society & family values-Native Americans' war paint, "violent" savages both
>> here & abroad in Africa, Asia; then later the sailors, the bikers, punk 
>rockers
>> etc. This is why it is so visually striking & connote "rebellion," &
>> anti-social behavior. It just disturbs some people-even on this list it's
>> caused some rather harsh disagreement & is viewed by some as just hideously
>> wrong. I think demographics & the culture within those demographics also 
>play a
>> role in why certain individuals are instinctively turned off by most
>> manifestations of tribal spirit such as tattoos, bikers, punk rock in the 
>'70s,
>> rap in the '80s, etc. I don't know why this is. I guess with me the 
>acceptance
>> of tattooing is pretty much due to the fact that I live very close to NYC &
>> have hung out in the East Village since age 13. Even in NYC, tattoos are all
>> the rage in the Village but on the Upper West Side they are not so 
>popular. But
>> to those of us who accept tattooing as "ok" it just becomes another form of
>> personal expression. Portraits of children, parents, pets, are very popular
>> among tattoo people.
>
>Have a good night!
>~Lisa
>
>> .
>
>
>
>>
>> In the US I wonder if tatoos also were considered bad or to shy away from
>> because of the feelings some had of Indians and their warpaint?  Maybe it
>> made them think of that and then think voilent people?  Just wondering.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:39:18 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Was ugly clothes, now Anne of Cleves
In-Reply-To: <01a601bf46a7$10c08b40$57d2fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

There are several dresses from that part of Germany in M. Davenport's
costume book.  My copy is so old it doesn't have an ISBN number - sorry.

>   Has anyone made a copy of the dress Anne of Cleves wore for the betrothal
>portrait?  I can see that it is a combination overdress with underdress but
>I wanted pointers, especially what *not* to do. ;)
>    There is some details specific to her hat in the Herbert Norris, Tudor
>Costume book but, information on the dress itself is lacking.  Has anyone
>found any sources that gives details on how to do that style of dress? 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:49:46 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Was ugly clothes, now Anne of Cleves
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 04:04:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

the ISBN numer is 0-517-037165

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----

-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

There are several dresses from that part of Germany in M. Davenport's
costume book.  My copy is so old it doesn't have an ISBN number - sorry.

>   Has anyone made a copy of the dress Anne of Cleves wore for the
betrothal
>portrait?  I can see that it is a combination overdress with underdress but
>I wanted pointers, especially what *not* to do. ;)
>    There is some details specific to her hat in the Herbert Norris, Tudor
>Costume book but, information on the dress itself is lacking.  Has anyone
>found any sources that gives details on how to do that style of dress?


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 03:21:44 1999
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To: lilinah@grin.net
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: H-COST: 12th Century Muslim Egyptian stockings
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

First, this is cross-posted to all the lists i mentioned these on, so 
i apologize to those who will see this message more than once.

Now, I mentioned that i was making a pair of stockings based on a 
Medieval Egyptian one.

Well, i finally figured out how to manipulate the scans i made of my 
socks, and they're on line:
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/EgyptKnit1.html

It's just one page with a little history of knitting, and pictures of 
the original find and the ones i made based on it. I will be 
up-loading charts of the patterns very soon, maybe even tonight, but 
i will have to write a page of html to go with them :-)

I'm entirely self-taught, and i'd never made socks before or done any 
stranded knitting, and they are only my third knitting project ever. 
This pair of socks are not authentic reproductions. Mine are knit 
from the top down, while the original is knit from the toe up. Mine 
are a wool-blend, while the original is cotton.

I'm now making a second pair, NOT based on any existing socks, but 
rather so i can learn more authentic techniques, like knitting from 
the toe up, and trying a different kind of authentic heel. When i get 
a bit farther on the one i've started, i'll scan it too.

Anahita Gauri al-shazhiya bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi

Ride your camel to Beyt Anahita, a Maghribi domicile
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/
Maghribi and Andalusian costuming and other things Near Eastern
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 05:35:36 1999
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Karen
 
> Oh Teddy, I'm so sorry I missed you in full Cavalier! It must have
> been fabulous! Next time I'm over, I want to see more of your stuff!!!

I don't even have photographs of me in a lot of my costumes (and a 
lot of them no longer fit...<g>) Even if I had, my sucess with 
scanning them has been terrible (Tenebrae can attest to this, she 
managed to get 3 of them into a viewable form and put them up on 
a Webpage for me, but it wasn't straightforward.)

Next time you're over, perhaps we can have a fashion show....<g>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 06:09:28 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 22:30:54 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Actually there is a pair of drawers in existance from Italian Renaissance
times - a friend of mine has a photo of them in one of the books from an
Italian museum - and I can't remember which one!

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com



>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 06:43:06 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 23:03:40 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

>And wouldn't a presentation of  historical Santas be stunning?

Kate

Stop it at once!  There is only 1.5 weeks til christmas - and evil minds
(OK:  costuming minds - same thing really <g>) work overtime.

However  - it would be a great idea.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com



>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 07:09:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:28:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19991213035446.00b8def0@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Mon, 13 Dec 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> Symmetrical shoes.  My big toe is the longest, so why is the pointy part
> adjacent to my middle toe?  And why do shoes have to be pointy in the first
> place?  And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
> And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
> buy them?
> 
> snip

Hey, now -- my middle toe is longer than the other ones (yes, I know
that's unusal), so maybe the shoe designers have feet like mine (grin)!

-- Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 07:32:08 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 06:51:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

<<If Germany had been Arizona, the Germans would have done things a little
differently.  It wasn't.  So either do it just like they did, and pray for
snow, or do it differently, and wear it all Summer.>>

Gee thanks for the reproof-I wasn't looking for an excuse to do something
different from what they did, I was looking for a reference to whether they
did do something different.  I have lived in Germany, and though it isn't as
warm as Arizona-they do have summers. 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 07:35:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:55:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
In-Reply-To: <0.25cf086f.25884f54@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 14 Dec 1999 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> Yes....and discuss tattoos instead of emoting over them.
> 
> Where do they come from? Why in Western culture should they have a negative 
> connotation? I find this interesting.
(snip)

I believe that tattoos got a bad rap in Western culture because of their
being forbidden in the Old Testament (partly).  I've read that tattoos
were not uncommon among members of certain medieval trade guilds, but
can't lay my hands on that particular piece of info right now.  They fell
into disfavor at some point (?), but had a resurgence when sailors started
coming into contact with cultures in the South Seas who used them for
tribal markings.  --Does anyone know whether tattoos were used by sailors
for purposes of identification (in case one drowned)?  I've also read that
sailors sometimes wore an earring so that they had something of value
(the gold earring) to pay for their burial if they died far from home.
But I don't know if that's an old salty tale or whether it has a basis in
fact.

Mara

(One of these days I'm going to get that red snake tattoo... but it will
have personal/spiritual significance to me, and will NOT be in a place
where people can see it (i.e., lower back)).

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 07:48:48 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 09:07:42 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

Please can we DROP this subject?  Let's move on before the list is ruined 
with people discussing the very thing that makes us great, our differences.

Darla
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 08:17:15 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Actually there is a pair of drawers in existance from Italian Renaissance
> times - a friend of mine has a photo of them in one of the books from an
> Italian museum - and I can't remember which one!

Milia Davenport's costume book has pictures of Italian drawers (2 
sets). 

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 08:34:27 1999
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Date: 15 Dec 99 07:53:22 MST
From: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Supplies help thanks
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-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

Thanks guys...I knew that I could count on you to come through with the help I
needed.  Kyna I will probably be contacting you today as what you have is
exactly what I'm looking for...the eye/eye combination of clasps.

Plus now I have lots of new web catalogs to look through :)

Beth
Orlaith of Storvik
Baheera Nafeesa Bint Akil

but...WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD?
FOX MULDER: You saw it cross the road with your own eyes. How many more
chickens have to cross before you believe it?




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 08:46:03 1999
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From: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Anna and the King
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-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

I saw a preview of Anna and the King last night.  A real GO SEE.  I told my
mom that it is on top of next year's christmas list.  The period is wrong for
me to judge much about the costumes, but the thing that stood out as wrong was
she had skirts and blouses on for most of the movie.  I seem to recall a
conversation on the list a while ago about skirt and blouses out of different
materials not being period for the civil war era.

The credits listed them working with eastern clothing historians and they
looked pretty good to me....of course I am looking at them as OHHHH pretty and
it looks generally right rather then the is that historically correct.

Just hope that when you go see it they don't make the same mistake this
theater did...they reversed reels 2 and 3.  Funny I don't remember the ball
coming before she is introduced to the children or Tuck Tim

Orlaith

This employee is depriving a village somewhere of its idiot.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 08:57:59 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: fashion individualists
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> Certainly there were period reasons for not wearing the peascod belly
> doublets, but can anyone quote me one?  Stubbes ought to have an opinion
> here, but I don't have a copy.  


Oh, he ranted and raved about it at great length:

   "Their dublettes are noe lesse monstrous than the reste; For now the
   fashion is to have them hang down to the middle of their theighes, or
   at least to their privie members, beeing so harde-quilted, and
   stuffed, bombasted and sewed, as they can neither woorke, nor yet well
   plaie in them, through the excessive heate thereof: and therefore are
   forced to wear them loose about them for the most part: otherwise they
   could verie hardly eyther stoupe downe, or bowe themselves to the
   grounde, soe styffe and sturdy they stand about them.
   
   Now, what handsomnes can be in these dubblettes which stand on their
   bellies like, or muche bigger than, a mans codpeece ( so as their
   bellies are thi their bellies are thicker than all their bodyes
   besyde) let wyse men judge; For for my parte, handsomnes in them I see
   none, and muche lesse profyte. And to be plaine, I never sawe any
   weare them, but I supposed him to be a man inclined to gourmandice,
   gluttonie, and such like.
   
   For what may these great bellies signifie else than that either they
   are such, or els are affected that way? ...For certain I am there was
   never any kinde of appatell ever invented that could more
   disproportion the body of man than these Dublets with great bellies,
   hanging down beneath their Pudenda (as I have said), & stuffed with
   foure, five or six pound of Bombast at the least. I say nothing of
   what their Dublets be made, some of Saten, Taffatie, silk, Grograine,
   Chamlet, gold, silver, & what not; slashed, jagged, cut, carved,
   pincked and laced with all kinde of costly lace of divers and sundry
   colours, for if I should stand upon these particularities, rather time
   then matter would be wanting."

In the 1877 edition of Stubbes' Anatomie, there's a woodcut of two men:
one a fashionable english gentleman, with a peascod doublet close-fitted
to his body, and the other a countryman, no peascod in sight.

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 10:41:54 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tattoo history/theories
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

"Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>>Didn't some of the Eastern tribes do facial tattooing as well as "war
paint"?<<
Women in one of the largest Native groups in Canada, the Cree, traditionally 
tattooed their faces. One, two, or three stripes went down from the centre 
of the lower lip down to the chin; stripes also went from the corner of the 
mouth to the side of the face. I don't recall any references to Cree men 
getting tattoos, but voyageurs sometimes did (c. 1800).

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 10:51:06 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 3:39:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< I am old enough to be wearing a cap for almost any period I do, and some
 other kind of head wrap for those periods not having a cap. >>

Thank God....I thought you might be wearing a bustle or pannier on your head!
  [I'm KIDDING!]  :-)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 10:58:47 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 3:39:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< Are there, in fact, *always*
 such fashion individualists?  >>

I'd say not in social circles....where *fashion* originates [Working people 
do not create fashion.....unless of course someone in the social set decides 
a "work look" is fashionable.] Remember there are often strict rules as to 
what one may wear to where ever...the opera, a ball, court. Could we tell the 
difference between an opera gown & a ball gown? Someone in every period could.
My mother laments to this day about: "Everything was great 'til the 60s and 
that 'do your own thing' mentality." What she means is before the 60's you 
wore a cocktail dress for a cocktail party and a dinner dress to a dinner 
party. You didn't just wear jeans everywhere.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:05:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 09:24:47 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> My understanding is that it is actually the color of raw flesh, which
> could be understood as a deep shade of pink, I suppose, depending on the
> flesh in question!

At the risk of being crude, all flesh, when raw, the same color.  Flesh not
being skin, but under the skin, is all the same color.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>>And wouldn't a presentation of  historical Santas be stunning?
>


If you're interested in this subjuect, check out the doll collecting
magazines. Santas are a popular specialty, and the variety is huge.  There
are some stunning Santas being made, with wonderful costuming.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:13:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 12:31:01 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 3:58:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<<  think the popular perception of tattooed people as
 automatically being trashy or scary is changing.  >>

Me too. But then I thought about long hair & beards on men. When I was a 
teen, this was "a personal expression". I even got thrown out of English 
class once because the teacher thought my hair was too long. [I was never 
sure what the length of my hair had to do with my ability to learn 
English...but I was delighted to skip class!] Today you might say....as I 
did....long hair is acceptable.

But is it? Was it?

I look at "TV Land" and notice on episodes of "Welcome Back Carter" that, yes 
John Travolta has long-ish hair, but not long hair. No one does. It all stops 
about mid ear. If Prime Time TV is an indicator of what TV exec's think will 
be acceptable to the general public, how acceptable is long hair even in the 
seventies?

Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that 
Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that Graphic 
Artist opening at the ad agency?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:16:25 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "'aleed@dnaco.net'" <aleed@dnaco.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: fashion individualists
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:34:56 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Might this person have made similar comments about the breeches(upperstocks)
men wore of the same period?  I always wondered if some men rejected the
pumpkin type.  Would anyone of fashion stuck with a more moderate pair of
breeches (in my mind, I mean canions, tight breeches which fit just above
the knee) or would they have been considered individualists.  Most of the
pictures I have seen show men in the former not the latter.  The reason I
ask is my husband refuses to wear the puffy ones and I haven't been able to
convince him that anyone would have worn the other.


-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> Certainly there were period reasons for not wearing the peascod belly
> doublets, but can anyone quote me one?  Stubbes ought to have an opinion
> here, but I don't have a copy.  


Oh, he ranted and raved about it at great length:

   "Their dublettes are noe lesse monstrous than the reste; For now the
   fashion is to have them hang down to the middle of their theighes, or
   at least to their privie members, beeing so harde-quilted, and
   stuffed, bombasted and sewed, as they can neither woorke, nor yet well
   plaie in them, through the excessive heate thereof: and therefore are
   forced to wear them loose about them for the most part: otherwise they
   could verie hardly eyther stoupe downe, or bowe themselves to the
   grounde, soe styffe and sturdy they stand about them.
   
   Now, what handsomnes can be in these dubblettes which stand on their
   bellies like, or muche bigger than, a mans codpeece ( so as their
   bellies are thi their bellies are thicker than all their bodyes
   besyde) let wyse men judge; For for my parte, handsomnes in them I see
   none, and muche lesse profyte. And to be plaine, I never sawe any
   weare them, but I supposed him to be a man inclined to gourmandice,
   gluttonie, and such like.
   
   For what may these great bellies signifie else than that either they
   are such, or els are affected that way? ...For certain I am there was
   never any kinde of appatell ever invented that could more
   disproportion the body of man than these Dublets with great bellies,
   hanging down beneath their Pudenda (as I have said), & stuffed with
   foure, five or six pound of Bombast at the least. I say nothing of
   what their Dublets be made, some of Saten, Taffatie, silk, Grograine,
   Chamlet, gold, silver, & what not; slashed, jagged, cut, carved,
   pincked and laced with all kinde of costly lace of divers and sundry
   colours, for if I should stand upon these particularities, rather time
   then matter would be wanting."

In the 1877 edition of Stubbes' Anatomie, there's a woodcut of two men:
one a fashionable english gentleman, with a peascod doublet close-fitted
to his body, and the other a countryman, no peascod in sight.

Drea

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 9:11:42 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
DDunker@aol.com writes:

<< 
 Please can we DROP this subject?  Let's move on before the list is ruined 
 with people discussing the very thing that makes us great, our differences.
  >>

 So... celebrate our diversity but pretend we're all the same?

You don't have to participate or read the tread if you don't like it but I 
have found everyone's comments interesting....even the flames.

Just skip it if it bothers you.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:33:45 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:57:06 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: "long-haired hippie freaks..."
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that 
> Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that Graphic 
> Artist opening at the ad agency?

Recently there was a big hullaballoo at the University of Nebraska when a
long-haired (male) law student was refused a place in a workshop/class
that would be dealing with real cases and appearing in court because of
the length of his hair.

Standards are constantly being challanged, and challange allows change.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:35:19 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: carnation
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

I'm perfectly willing to believe that all humans are the same shade under
the skin, I know for a fact that food animals are not the same color,
there is a noticable difference between beef and pork, and a dramatic
difference between hooved animal flesh and fowl flesh. So I suppose that
it would depend on which flesh we were discussing.

Karen

  
> At the risk of being crude, all flesh, when raw, the same color.  
> Flesh not
> being skin, but under the skin, is all the same color.
> 
> Cynthia
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:55:41 1999
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From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Acapulco
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

I made two trips to Mexico in the early 70's and early 80's (total of
six weeks).  Undoubtedly things have changed but...at that time, 
Acapulco was so touristy as to be unrecognizable as Mexico.  I wouldn't 
look for much there in the way of textiles. A good place for textiles is
Oaxaca, where they do a lot of colored embroidery on cotton (shirts,
dresses, etc.) and you can also get very nice traditional black
silk rebozos (shawls) or more tourist-oriented shawls of cotton in
many colors and styles, rugs, and wool ponchos.  Different cities 
specialize in different items: Taxco is a silver center, Oaxaca is 
textiles and black pottery, etc.  However, all the areas seem to
send their materials to Mexico City, which is the only place I know
of that carries some of the best of the wares from all over the
country (although at a higher price than getting it locally).  
In addition, Mexico City has incredible antique shops, markets 
(mercados), etc.  

Acapulco's beach is BEAUTIFUL but it's not really "Mexico" anymore 
than DisneyWorld is representative of the United States.  The prices 
are also very high since the local economy seems totally dependant on
international tourism.  Personal opinion--no offense meant.

-------------------
At 12:24 AM 12/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I've recently learned that I'm going to be taking a trip to Acapulco in 
>February.  As all the literature on the web seems geared towards the 
>sun-worshipping type of person (which I'm not), I thought I'd ask you 
>folks for advice.
>
>Has anyone been there?  Do you have any advice about activities, places 
>to see, items to shop for?  Obviously I'm interested in anything having 
>to do with fabric :) but I'd also be interested in whatever local 
>handcrafts may be available.
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that
> Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that Graphic
> Artist opening at the ad agency?

But maybe that man with long hair or that woman with a tattoo don't *want* that
job.  And I, for one, think this is changing.  There are several ads on TV right
now showing young people with pink or yellow hair giving their parents *good*
advise on purchasing stock and that type of thing.  An obvious statement about
our changing times.  Thank God our social mores are changing from the stuffed
shirt, judgemental views that judge a person's intelligence and worth by the
color of their hair or skin, be it natural or decorative to something more
forgiving, more in tune with our insides.

Fwiw and my $.02,
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:31:04 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 13:44:44 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 1:19:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< There are several ads on TV right
 now showing young people with pink or yellow hair giving their parents *good*
 advise on purchasing stock and that type of thing. >>

But these ads use a reversal of the prevailing attitude as a joke. I don't 
see it as an indication of change but a confirmation of the norm.

<<Thank God our social mores are changing from the stuffed
shirt, judgmental views that judge a person's intelligence and worth by the
color of their hair or skin, be it natural or decorative to something more
forgiving, more in tune with our insides.>>

Where is this happening?

 It may be shifting but it's not disappearing, this judgment. It will never 
disappear. I don't mean to be cynical but I think it's just the way our 
brains work. Some individuals deal with it better than others....that's for 
sure!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:34:57 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tattoo history/theories
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>    When we were in New Zealand one of the books we saw in a friends house
>was a history of the Maori featuring some of the most amazing facial
>tattoos!

There's a Samoan or Maori working at a local grocery store.  He has several
geometric tattoos on his arms, and told me a little about it.  He says yes,
it takes a long time and it hurts, but there's a big ceremony which goes
with it, with a lot of support for the tattooee.  Ocasionally he gets to go
back home for additions.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:43:41 1999
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-Poster: scootnik@ix.netcom.com

Hi All, I'm new here and new to Costuming as well. Could some one please 
suggest a book (or two...) that gives the proper undergarments to wear for 
period costumes. I'd like a book specifically on Corsetry as well. The time 
span needs to be fairly wide for both subjects, I'd like a good overview 
rather that a book on just one era. Thanks for your help, please excuse if 
this subject has been covered here before, Lynne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:51:08 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:06:16 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Hi All, I'm new here and new to Costuming as well. Could some one please
> suggest a book (or two...) that gives the proper undergarments to wear for
> period costumes.

Welcome!

I'm sure many folks have info.  Can you elaborate with a place and time?  :)

~M~
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:51:32 1999
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Corsets & Crinolines by Nora Waugh is the best comprehensive book on the
history of corsets, hoopskirts and fashionable support around.  It
contains patterns for various corsets & hoops,lots of contemporary
literary quotes and references, and good info of all sorts.  She covers
1600 to around 1920.

Drea



 On Wed, 15 Dec 1999
scootnik@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: scootnik@ix.netcom.com
> 
> Hi All, I'm new here and new to Costuming as well. Could some one please 
> suggest a book (or two...) that gives the proper undergarments to wear for 
> period costumes. I'd like a book specifically on Corsetry as well. The time 
> span needs to be fairly wide for both subjects, I'd like a good overview 
> rather that a book on just one era. Thanks for your help, please excuse if 
> this subject has been covered here before, Lynne
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 13:19:48 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: fashion individualists
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:36:55 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Oh, he [Stubbes] ranted and raved about it at great length...
Thank-you, Drea,  that was a hoot!

On to a different fashion conceit, the most incomprehendable to me was the
short fad to look pregnant in the 19th c.
In Paris, you could by "tournures a 3, 4 et 6 mois" -- pads for 3, 4 and 6
months.  There's a cartoon from Punch showing the side view cut-away of the
well-padded woman.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 13:23:21 1999
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>From another list I'm on:

>Not a particularly interesting bit of knowledge, but one pertinant to
>our little cause.  The Internet Movie Database is currently taking a
>poll on who has played the best Queen Elizabeth.  Cate Blanchett is in
>the lead with Judi Dench in a relatively close second.  For all of you
>interested in placing your votes the URL is:
>
>http:\\www.imdb.com

LynnD
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:46:41 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.

Merouda/Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: carnation
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:47:40 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>> My understanding is that it is actually the color of raw flesh, which
>> could be understood as a deep shade of pink, I suppose, depending on the
>> flesh in question!

>At the risk of being crude, all flesh, when raw, the same color.  Flesh not
>being skin, but under the skin, is all the same color.

Flesh of what? Trout, veal & chicken all look very different.  Point being
that I dont think you can reverse-engineer the actual color from the name.
Find a contemp. description.  Perhaps "Mergatroyd had his picture painted
for the Queen. He was wearing that horrid carnation concotion."  Then find
the picture.  Guessing is not good research.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 12:56:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

I'm new to this subject.  What does alb stand for (carbon dating or
something?)?  And what does waleless corduroy look like?      When I try to
envision it velveteen comes to mind.

-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris [mailto:keltia@serv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 12:47 PM
To: Historic Needlework; Historical Costume; SCA Garb
Subject: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!



-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.

Merouda/Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:08:05 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: "H-COST" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 15:26:53 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
CC: "Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>


> Murphy's Laws of Sewing (Anonymous) 

> Whenever the construction process is going well the bobbin thread runs out.

And its correlation: The bobbin thread always runs out six inches before the end of a 10 
yard hem!

--Jessica/Muireann
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:26:19 1999
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To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
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-Poster: ches@io.com

An Alb is a priest's vestment. From http://www.harcourts.com/clergy.htm

Among Christians, for example, the stole, a scarf adopted as the
distinctive sign of the ordained minister, was traditionally viewed as a
yoke, symbolizing that the wearer was a servant of God. The eucharistic
vestments worn by Roman Catholics, Episcopalians, and Lutherans include
the alb, a white floor-length tunic (symbolizing purity) tied at the waist
with a rope cincture, over which is worn the chasuble, a full cloak put on
over the head. The amice, often made in the form of a collar or hood
(symbolizing the helmet of salvation), is wrapped around the neck under
the alb. The maniple, a length of material worn over the left arm, was
originally a napkin and symbolizes the role of the minister as servant of
the people of God. 



Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 15 Dec 1999, Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001) wrote:

> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 12:56:21 -0700
> From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> I'm new to this subject.  What does alb stand for (carbon dating or
> something?)?  And what does waleless corduroy look like?      When I try to
> envision it velveteen comes to mind.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris [mailto:keltia@serv.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 12:47 PM
> To: Historic Needlework; Historical Costume; SCA Garb
> Subject: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.
> 
> Merouda/Cynthia
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:36:42 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:58:25 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

I'm going to try to NOT sound too negative with this post, but simple
observation leads me to this opinion.....................

> But maybe that man with long hair or that woman with a tattoo don't
*want* that
> job.  

Then they won't go to the interview:-)

> And I, for one, think this is changing.  There are several ads on TV
right
> now showing young people with pink or yellow hair giving their parents
*good*
> advise on purchasing stock and that type of thing.  

That's because that's what the advertisers want you to think. They can give
those kids any lines they want them to say. My experience with these young
folks is completely different..............I only WISH they would talk to
me about things like the stock market, world/current events, etc.

I teach high school art and special ed (CWC). I'm sorry to have to say
this, but the kids with the blue hair and piercings aren't the ones
interested in the stock market, aren't the ones that are going to go to
college, aren't the ones that are going to try to do anything with their
lives other than flipping burgers because they just want to listen to their
music and work the minimum that they can........I dialogue with them all
the time. Now, don't get me wrong, I love these kids, they're my students
and I care about them, but they don't keep up. They color their hair and
pierce their bodies for "shock" value only and I don't think that Technical
Writing Manager, or that man looking to hire a graphic artist to deal with
the public cares anything about their ability to make people stare at them.

> An obvious statement about
> our changing times.  Thank God our social mores are changing from the
stuffed
> shirt, judgemental views that judge a person's intelligence and worth by
the
> color of their hair or skin, be it natural or decorative to something
more
> forgiving, more in tune with our insides.

We (my husband and I) are VERY open-minded folks and accepting of everyone,
but by simple observation of the teens and 20-somethings, I have to say, I
worry about the type of adults they're going to be. We went to our favorite
"whole-food" cafe and got the worst service we had EVER had because all our
waitress seemed concerned with was the new "tangles" in her hair that she
was trying to get to dread. We sat back and watched her completely absorbed
in herself and her hair and ignore most of her customers.

My problem with this is that they are trying to be different, just like
everyone else.

Look at the way they put their clothes together, do you think they will do
the research and put the effort into a well-made, well-fitting, authentic
costume? My guess is, no.....they will throw some things together, probably
tear it somewhere on purpose, make it ill fitting, do their hair strange
and demand that you accept their interpretation of the costume. 

We just have to decide what we're going to accept.

I have a button I wear that says, "Just because no one understands you,
doesn't make you an artist." 

All in good spirits,
Amanda




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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 13:22:42 -0600 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: The King and I
In-Reply-To: <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEOEDPCAAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

here is the url for the movie, there is a quicktime interview with the
costumer that is just facinating!!

http://www.annaandtheking.com/images/landing/html_entry.gif

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:48:51 1999
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References: <19991214.204442.-32587.0.seamstrix@juno.com> <3857CEDF.726FFA45@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: carnation
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 12:48:50 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> > My understanding is that it is actually the color of raw flesh, which
> > could be understood as a deep shade of pink, I suppose, depending on the
> > flesh in question!
>
> At the risk of being crude, all flesh, when raw, the same color.  Flesh
not
> being skin, but under the skin, is all the same color.

Funny. I took the first comment to refer to the "freshness" of the flesh.

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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  >>And wouldn't a presentation of  historical Santas be stunning?
>  > 
>  
>  If you're interested in this subjuect, check out the doll collecting
>  magazines. Santas are a popular specialty, and the variety is huge. 
There
>  are some stunning Santas being made, with wonderful costuming.
>  
>  Margo

Oh, drat! Another hobby! Oh, wait, that still falls under the umbrella of
costuming. I'm safe. *whew!*
Now, are there any folks in the Seattle area interested in 'The Great Santa
Project'?

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:50:53 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

I am thumbing through:

Opus Anglicanum: English Medieval Embroidery
The Victoria & Albert Musuem
26 September to 24 November 1963
The Arts Council 1963
Printed in England at The Curwen Press, Plaistow, Long E.13
Exhibit selected by Donald King, deputy keeper of Textiles at the V&S
(at the time)
No ISBN

Plate 14 shows appliqued Opus Anglicanum onto velvet.  But the velvet
is *exactly* like waleles corduroy.  And it is on an Alb, clerical of
course, but still a garment.

Yes!
Merouda/Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:13:01 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Wed, 15 Dec 1999, Amanda Reeves wrote:
> 
> We (my husband and I) are VERY open-minded folks and accepting of everyone,
> but by simple observation of the teens and 20-somethings, I have to say, I
> worry about the type of adults they're going to be. We went to our favorite
> "whole-food" cafe and got the worst service we had EVER had because all our
> waitress seemed concerned with was the new "tangles" in her hair that she
> was trying to get to dread. We sat back and watched her completely absorbed
> in herself and her hair and ignore most of her customers.

	What makes that different from the bad service that I got last night
from a very well, but very conventionally dressed, waitress, who was more
interested in gossiping with the other servers, checking her mainstream, but
fashionable make-up, and trying not to mar her salon-done nails.  And I went
to high school with plenty of girls who looked like her who didn't do squat in
the classroom.
> 
> Look at the way they put their clothes together, do you think they will do
> the research and put the effort into a well-made, well-fitting, authentic
> costume? My guess is, no.....they will throw some things together, probably
> tear it somewhere on purpose, make it ill fitting, do their hair strange
> and demand that you accept their interpretation of the costume. 

	And people like the one that I mentioned above, do you think that she
wants to do research and wear *historical* clothing.  No, she will make a
outfit that makes her look 20th-century pretty, not be caught dead in proper
head gear, and expect you to tell her how lovely she looks.

	My point (and I do have one) is that all groups of people contain
people who are lazy and self-absorbed and that I have met (percentage wise)
more "normal" people who are like that as I have people who look strange.

-Katie (who has a tatoo  and unhistorically short hair,
none of which shows when I am wearing clothing that is as well made, well
fitting and authentic as I can make it)

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

> > Look at the way they put their clothes together, do you think they will
do
> > the research and put the effort into a well-made, well-fitting,
authentic
> > costume? My guess is, no.....they will throw some things together,
probably
> > tear it somewhere on purpose, make it ill fitting, do their hair strange
> > and demand that you accept their interpretation of the costume.
>
> And people like the one that I mentioned above, do you think that she
> wants to do research and wear *historical* clothing.  No, she will make a
> outfit that makes her look 20th-century pretty, not be caught dead in
proper
> head gear, and expect you to tell her how lovely she looks.
>
How do you know either of these cases to be true?  When I first got into the
SCA, at age 15, I had dyed my hair purple and wore a nose ring (back when
only Hindi women wore them).  I did everything I could to be very authentic
in my costuming.

Andrea

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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Wed, 15 Dec 1999, Andrea Gideon wrote:
> >
> > And people like the one that I mentioned above, do you think that she
> > wants to do research and wear *historical* clothing.  No, she will make a
> > outfit that makes her look 20th-century pretty, not be caught dead in
> proper
> > head gear, and expect you to tell her how lovely she looks.
> >
> How do you know either of these cases to be true?  When I first got into the
> SCA, at age 15, I had dyed my hair purple and wore a nose ring (back when
> only Hindi women wore them).  I did everything I could to be very authentic
> in my costuming.

	Well, I only wrote the part that I left quoted in the message, and I
can't answer for the other poster (stichwitch?), that said, I don't pretend
that my example is true all of the time.  I overstated my case deliberatly to
point out that people who wear unconventional dress are no more likely to be
indifferent to authenticity than people who don't.  OTOH, my particular hobby,
ACW reenactment contains a fair number of women who want to be Scarrlett
O'Hara and dress accordingly, none of them that I have seen wear anything
other than conventional clothing.

-Katie

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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/99 2:48:46 AM Central Standard Time, kayta@slip.net 
writes:

<< 
 One of the many things I don't understand about your religion is why
 tattoos are destroying the temple of one's body, and ear piercing, common
 among women of the period in which that book was written, is not. >>

I know some of the divisions of the denomanation don't allow ear piercing or 
short hair for women.  I married a Mennonite but was raised Conservative 
Baptist.  Now some of the Mennonite dress more like Amish, who broke from the 
Mennonite Church.  Now some, like our Church wear pants, can wear their hair 
short, pierce their ears.  I have pierced ears but I chose to wear my hair 
long.  Long hair is a covering and a glory to women, that is why the Church 
historically like long hair on women.  A womens adornment is supposed to be 
on the inside and not the outside.  The outside would be fancy hairstyles, 
makeup, jewelry, tatoos, very fancy clothes.  Now I have been known to make 
my hair up and wear fancy clothes but the tatoos are permant and therefore 
destory the body.  Since tatooing is "religious" to some cultures, by not 
tatooing it would not be conforming to "religions" that don't hold the same 
beliefs as ours.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 15:44:36 1999
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-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

Greetings,

A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. The tunic is long (just past the knees), made from red/scarlet wool gabardine, with the sleeves and hem trimmed with 2 inch wide bands of royal blue wool crepe. There is also a white cotton undertunic that goes with it, which is machine embroidered in red and blue, showing at the neck, sleeves and hem.

I had made this ensemble for my lord as an anniversary present, and I was hoping that it would change his mind as to the fact that T-tunics can't be fancy, or for court garb. Unfortunately I got my hopes up too high, it seems.

My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a dress, it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average person can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on it (even then....?).  

So, I am posting to find out what my fellow costumers can suggest that I do with this. I have seen some trim at the fabric store (leaf/fleur-de-lis scroll work on black in silver thread), but I am reluctant to put that on for several reasons. First, it's $6/m. Second, I want this tunic to be as period as humanly possible (its one of the first pieces I have done that I would consider competing with). And third, it is very difficult to place straight trim on a curved seam (like the neck or hem).

I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made. (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The intended period is very late 12th century.

Help me out once again, all you marvelous people!

Thanks,

Meghan of Caerleon 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 15:52:47 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Daguerrotypes on-line
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:11:56 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Daguerrotypes (nice .gifs) from the Augustus Washington exhibit at the
National Portrait Gallery (Smithsonian).
http://www.npg.si.edu/exh/awash/ the 1844-54 portraits are lovely.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 15:53:49 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

I say keep the tunic, dump the lord!  I love everything that my wife has
ever made for me.  And to turn your nose up at a handmade anniversary
present is just.........too rotten for words.  I may not be 100% crazy about
everything she has ever made for me, but I would never tell her that,
because it's not the items that maters it the love that went into making it.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best layed plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"



-----Original Message-----
From: S Nielsen [mailto:s_nielsen@canada.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 2:04 PM
To: sca-garb@list.uvm.edu
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic



-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

Greetings,

A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. The tunic
is long (just past the knees), made from red/scarlet wool gabardine, with
the sleeves and hem trimmed with 2 inch wide bands of royal blue wool crepe.
There is also a white cotton undertunic that goes with it, which is machine
embroidered in red and blue, showing at the neck, sleeves and hem.

I had made this ensemble for my lord as an anniversary present, and I was
hoping that it would change his mind as to the fact that T-tunics can't be
fancy, or for court garb. Unfortunately I got my hopes up too high, it
seems.

My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a dress,
it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average person
can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on it
(even then....?).  

So, I am posting to find out what my fellow costumers can suggest that I do
with this. I have seen some trim at the fabric store (leaf/fleur-de-lis
scroll work on black in silver thread), but I am reluctant to put that on
for several reasons. First, it's $6/m. Second, I want this tunic to be as
period as humanly possible (its one of the first pieces I have done that I
would consider competing with). And third, it is very difficult to place
straight trim on a curved seam (like the neck or hem).

I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My
experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made.
(Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what
stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The
intended period is very late 12th century.

Help me out once again, all you marvelous people!

Thanks,

Meghan of Caerleon 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:08:57 1999
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From: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

>
> I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made. (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The intended period is very late 12th century.

I assume that you love the guy and he has many other redeeming qualities, right?

So, think stem-stitch.  Somewhere recently I saw a beautiful tunic with a border embroidered with an outline motif done in stem-stitch.  As soon as I remember, I'll post the url.  Does he have a favorite color?  If not, I'd use a deeper red than the tunic or gold.  If you want period, silk thread doesn't cost that much.  The one in my hand was listed at 3$ for 8 yds 12-ply silk.  Does he have a device/favorite motif?  Use it.  Another way to snazz it up is beading.  Just remember to knot well
after each bead.

-magdalena

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:13:48 1999
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-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

I may have made things sound more extreme than they are. Dumping my lord and keeping the tunic isn't really an option I am willing to consider. :-)

He sees me sewing Italian ren dresses from brocade and velvet, and says that he doesn't have any "nice/fancy" garb. This tunic was an attempt to remedy that. I will agree that the tunic does look plain. But short of spending a hundred hours embroidering the tunic (which I am willing to consider) what are my options for keeping the tunic appropriate to a 12c Norman?
On Wed, 15 December 1999, "Peters, Rise J." wrote:
> 
> My suggestion would be that you give him a gift certificate to the fabric
> store and tell him to have at it.  Anyone who "flatly rejects" a well-made
> garment had better be willing to learn to sew.

> What I would suggest you =not= do is put more time or money into fancying up
> something he really, really doesn't want.  If he's willing to "flatly
> reject" an anniversary gift, putting embroidery on it's not going to make
> him change his mind.

I think it will. 

Thanks,

Meghan of Caerleon


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:15:24 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Underpinnings books
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/99 12:06:28 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
aleed@dnaco.net writes:

<< Corsets & Crinolines by Nora Waugh is the best comprehensive book on the
 history of corsets, hoopskirts and fashionable support around.  It
 contains patterns for various corsets & hoops,lots of contemporary
 literary quotes and references, and good info of all sorts.  She covers
 1600 to around 1920.
 
 Drea
 
  >>

I agree with the above and...
 I would include as a second reference the Jean Hunnisett books.  The corsets 
are better fitting for 20th century bodies which haven't been constricted 
from an early age.  Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:26:57 1999
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

As I think along, another option for embellishment is to add a thin piece of cloth (I'd choose white, gold-yellow, or black) on one edge or both of your blue cloth.  See my primitive ascii below.  It would add definition.

-Magdalena


____________________
____________________


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:38:18 1999
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From: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>
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-Poster: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>

Kyna Grannd wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
> 
> Warning.... blatant plug for myself to follow  :)
> 
> We are just finalizing out complete online catalog/shopping cart and out
> text
> price list now contains links to photos of most of our listed items. Once
> complete, we
> will also have all our laces and trims shown, books and additional corset
> supplies that have yet to finish arriving.
> 
> We'd be happy to help you and answer any questions. We have various sizes
> and styles of
> grommets in stock. We also are an authorized distributor for one of the
> Norwegian pewter companies, with a full line of clasps offered in eye/hook,
> hook/hook and eye/eye combinations.
> 
> The main site is at http://GranndGarb.com
> 
> The Clasps can be found at:  http://granndgarb.com/page2.shtml
> The Grommets, Eyelets and such can be found at:
> http://granndgarb.com/page5.shtml
> 
> Regards,
> 
> ~Kyna
> Grannd Garb
> Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
> info@granndgarb.com
> http://granndgarb.com
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
> >
> > I am currently working on my 12th night/yule festival/new year's eve
> dress.
> > It is a great red velveteen Italian Ren with snowflakes beaded all over
> the
> > sleeves.  The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread
> the
> > lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  I know I have
> seen
> > women with this style of closure but I've never seen them in stores or on
> the
> > web.  I am located in Arlington Virginia and but I would prefer to find
> them
> > on the web.
> >
> > Thanks for any help you can give me....
> >
> > Orlaith of Storvik
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


Maybe you can answer a question for me. Last year I finally came up with
a bodice pattern taylored to me. Because I like it alot, I want to make
many more (at least 6 for me and some altered ones for friends. However,
it laces on both sides with a total of 28 grommets per bodice. Do you
know of a source for an affordable bench top grommet setter say in the
range of 200$ or so?

-- 
Freya

Abair ach beag, is abair gu math e.
Say but little, and say it well.
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. [snip]
>
> I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made. (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The intended period is very late 12th century.

I love the embroidery on this page!  http://www.regia.org/embroid.htm  show him the pictures and see what he thinks.  I'd get his opinion about the design before spending hours on it.

M/C
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:44:35 1999
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

>

Think accessories too.  Does he have a cool belt with stuff to hang from it?  A hood. (or am I thinking too late period?)  A big guy type necklace.  A pouch to match the rest of the outfit.

Also, are we talking 1275 or 1375?

-Magdalena



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:45:14 1999
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Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



> ----------
> From: 	Merouda the True of Beaumaris[SMTP:keltia@serv.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 15, 1999 2:59 PM
> To: 	Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb; Historical Costume
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> I love the embroidery on this page!  http://www.regia.org/embroid.htm
> show him the pictures and see what he thinks.  I'd get his opinion about
> the design before spending hours on it.
> 
Absolutely.  The surprise thing doesn't seem to have gone very well.  I'm
also inclined to believe that if he really doesn't want to wear it, he isn't
going to wear it.  Better find out, or figure out a way to turn it into
another garment he will wear.

It sounds gorgeous to me !

MaggiRos



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:06:03 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Having made a number of court Saxon tunics for my lord husband I have
the following to say: first, it is easier to put a thin piece of trim
around a round neckline... particularly if one leaves about 1/4-1/2" of
fabric between the edge & the edge of the trim.  Second, use several
different types of trim around the chest.... eg plain trim, fancy trim,
plain trim if all are fairly wide or even multiple lines of trim if trim
is narrow.  His fanciest has a band of 10" of trim across the chest. 
Third, you might lay a coordinating trim along the band of fabric on the
wrists and hem.  The first tunic I made for my husband was of a brown
velvet with cross-stitch trim.  I used cross-stitch trim fabric (already
bound on the edges) but that was before I knew about waste canvas.  The
trim on the sleeves was red and gold in a narrow, simple design.  The
hem had a 2" wide trim in yellow and blue as I recall (can't find it
right now).  Another trick I use for rounded necklines is to bead them. 
I run a simple pattern of beads (such as \./*\./*\./ with the * & .
representing a bead & the lines representing embroidery thread).  It
really doesn't take that long if you use a short, thin needle and I
often put them in whilst simultaneously hemming the neckline.  Hope he
finds some of these alternatives attractive.  If you'd like, I can try
to get a pic of some of Kent's tunics to you.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:08:01 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991214202429.21995.qmail@nwcst291.netaddress.usa.net> <02c101bf46a4$9114bee0$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com> <3858465F.5D4A@home.com>
Subject: H-COST: Grommet Setters was Re: Supplies Help
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 18:27:05 -0500
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Do you
> know of a source for an affordable bench top grommet setter say in the
> range of 200$ or so?
>
> --
> Freya

If you want to email me I can give you some numbers and examples. I thought
I'd take the time to give an opinion about grommet and eyelet setters to the
entire list. If anyone has better experiences with these bench top models,
I'd love to hear the manufacturer's name :)

I have a bench top setter, as well as the simple die set and hammer, the die
set and hammer is actually easier and requires much less strength. (Not to
mention the fact that they are much less expensive) I've tried a bench top
that has a foot lever also. That was nice for large multiples and since my
legs are much stronger than my arms, plus it is easier to get your body
weight behind it, it was less effort than the one you do with your arms, but
very expensive if you aren't going to be using it every day in a business.

I generally use the die set and hammer and the bench setter for multiple
hundreds is attached to a work table collecting dust for the most part.

~Kyna

Grannd Garb
http://granndgarb.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:17:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 23:49:19 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

> 
>   >>
> 
> I agree with the above and...
>  I would include as a second reference the Jean Hunnisett books.  The corsets
> are better fitting for 20th century bodies which haven't been constricted
> from an early age.  

Do please bear in mind though that theses patterns have been adapted for
stage wear and are not always strictly accurate for re-enactment wear

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:17:26 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Another useful book is the history of underclothes by cunnington. I
don't think it's in print anymore but you may be able to pick it up
somewhere.

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:21:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:41:16 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a
dress, it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average
person can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on
it (even then....?).

Meghan, has he tried this on or did he reject it before putting it on? If he
hasn't tired it on with all of the accessories he'll wear with it, get him
too. Then, drag him outside and take pictures (perhaps somewhere where the
neighbors might see and complement him?). After the fuss, if he still
doesn't like it, make copies of the pic, have him tell you why he doesn't
like it and what might fix it, and sketch on the copies. If you can get him
interested enough, have him do the sketching. It may save a lot of time
trying to decide on a "fix" if all he wants is something appliquéd on the
front. If he still doesn't like it, at least you have some pics of him in
it.

Good luck.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:22:55 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 18:41:42 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

There are certainly irregular tartan patterns out there. Also, if your 
husband saw a color print of the tartan, rather than some one wearing the 
actual garment, the color could have been "off". There are sett registries 
where you can check the pattern of the tartan just in case. 

Kathleen Norvell
"How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
--"Start the Revolution Without Me"
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:35:48 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 18:53:48 -0500
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
To: "INTERNET:h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

Kate,

>>I've seen some lovely holiday cards with Santa, Father Christmas, etc. on
them in various garb, the most stunning of which is a heavy fur coat (looks
like bear) over a midnight blue robe embroidered with silver snowflakes. I
think this was a Victorian creation, but was there ever a 'Santa'
historically with such an outfit? And wouldn't a presentation of historical
Santas be stunning? <<

Thought you might to go to this site......loads of images of Victorian
Santa's for you!

http://webclipart.about.com/internet/webclipart/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site
=http://www.taurussoftware.hostings.com/santa

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 18:05:10 1999
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:23:16 +1100
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-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

Meghan,

I'm wondering if a fancy tablet-woven braid may be an option. It's quicker
than an embroidered band, and they can be made quick(ish)ly, It's fairly
easy to learn if you don't already know it, and some really pretty patterns
can be designed for these.

As late 12th century isn't my period at the moment, I can't remember if the
tablet-woven edging is OK, but I have seen it on 11th century reenactors,
and I'm sure I've seen it on 12th and 13th century reenactors too. There are
surely others on the list who could tell us of it's authenticity for the
period.

Glenda.

<parts of original msg>
-----Original Message-----
From: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>


>
>My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a dress,
it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average person
can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on it
(even then....?).
>
>
>I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My
experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made.
(Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what
stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The
intended period is very late 12th century.
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 18:09:35 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19991214222443.03aeaab0@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 14 Dec 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> 
> >In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
> >mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
> >that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
> >a later time as well?
> 
> "Bloomers" show up in Mary, Queen of Scots's inventories.  I would not be
> surprised to find them in Elizabeth's.  Anybody out there have access to
> any of her inventories?
> 
I just had a thought - maybe 16th century drawers were used for riding?
I haven't had much experience with horseriding myself, but I imagine
it's not something you'd want to do exposed as it were. Then perhaps
later on someone found these and thought 'ooer, can't have Good Queen
Bess without her undies on...'
As I said...just a thought...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< My lord downright rejected the tunic. >>

What amazingly bad manners.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 19:26:21 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< As late 12th century isn't my period at the moment, I can't remember if the
 tablet-woven edging is OK, but I have seen it on 11th century reenactors,
 and I'm sure I've seen it on 12th and 13th century reenactors too. There are
 surely others on the list who could tell us of it's authenticity for the
 period. >>

Brocaded tabletwoven bands are "period" through the 16th century.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 19:47:19 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/99 9:45:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< 
  So... celebrate our diversity but pretend we're all the same?
 
 You don't have to participate or read the tread if you don't like it but I 
 have found everyone's comments interesting....even the flames.
  >> snip
You evidently think you read between imaginary lines.   Please feel free then 
to 
express yourself, but I take great offense at you placing blame where it does 
not
belong "pretend we're all the same".  I have never made a statement such as 
that.
You owe me an apology.

I asked only that the sniping stop, but apparently you continue to thrive on 
it.

You are right about one thing, if I skip the thread, I needn't be exposed to 
your narrowminded judgemental attitude.

Darla
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 19:58:24 1999
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:15:41 -0500
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

interesting thread this....

it has been suggested by some anthropologists that primitive peoples
actually started the practice of tattooing and other body modifications
partly to differentiate themselves from animals - after all, animals dont
dye/braid/shave their hair, wear jewelry, or mark their bodies. it could be
that as we have moved away from living close to nature making the difference
between animals and humans doesnt need to be as explicit, and the reason the
west has traditionally viewed body modifications as "bad" or "strange" is
because it is associated with these less "advanced" people.

body modifications have also marked rites of passage. perhaps the only
analagous thing in western society might be taking a young girl to get her
ears pierced, but given that some people take babies for piercing and some
people dont believe in it at all id hardly call this an established ritual.

though some folks have latched on to piercing/tattooing/etc as a "fashion"
thing i kind of feel sorry for them because they may be disappointed later
on because they didnt realize how permanent it is. i think the majority of
body mods. in modern western society are done out of personal taste. i also
think young people (i am speaking of 18+  - most reputable tattoo/piercing
parlors wont work on anyone underage) do find an element of rebellion
appealing - which i guess makes them normal because all generations seem to
like to bewilder the one(s) that came before it ;)

some good references on this subject are "re/search: modern primitives" and
ted polhemus' "the customized body", which also covers things like plastic
surgery and extreme hair styles. the former is a historical survey of body
modifications across the world and discussions with modern
artists/practitioners. the latter is a series of photo essays of folks with
modifications and offers insight into the many reasons people get
tattoos/piercing/dreadlocks/etc. now. both have pictures that are not for
the squeamish, so youve been warned.;)

also, if youre curious about the mechanics, different types of piercing,
hygiene, etc check out http://www.access.digex.net/~perforat/. this is the
url of Perforations, a highly regarded shop in washington dc.

allison

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 20:01:14 1999
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From: Morgaine of Glastonbury <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
To: Historic Costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: You have been sent a Medieval-gram!
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-Poster: Morgaine of Glastonbury <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Greetings Historic Costume list!

Apparently, Morgaine of Glastonbury (lady_gawain@yahoo.com) sent you a Medieval-gram.

In order to pick-up your Medieval-gram, point your web browser to the website:

http://www.PillagedVillage.com/cgi-bin/gram_get.cgi?id=6617176195

Your Medieval-gram will be available for 30 days starting from the
date of this E-mail notification - pick up window is at our website.


Best regards

Webmaster
The Pillaged Village
http://www.PillagedVillage.com/


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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: changing attitudes etc.
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:21:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

- -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that
> Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that
Graphic
> Artist opening at the ad agency?

But maybe that man with long hair or that woman with a tattoo don't *want*
that
job.  And I, for one, think this is changing.  There are several ads on TV
right
now showing young people with pink or yellow hair giving their parents
*good*
advise on purchasing stock and that type of thing.  An obvious statement
about
our changing times.  Thank God our social mores are changing from the
stuffed
shirt, judgemental views that judge a person's intelligence and worth by the
color of their hair or skin, be it natural or decorative to something more
forgiving, more in tune with our insides.

>>i work as a contractor in washington dc, never a funky fashion capital. i
contract to the federal government, no less and i am definitely noticing a
considerable loosening up in standards for work attire.  i have purple
streaks in my hair and no one has commented negatively about this - indeed,
ive recieved a few compliments. there is even a person on my floor with
their cheek pierced (looks like a marilyn-monroe "beauty spot") and
evidently there are no problems because ive not seen her take it out yet.

>>granted, i do not work in a high visibility position (web
developer/programmer) but i think you can get away with more extreme styles
than say, 5 years ago, in the work place. unless youre going into law or
corporate banking or some equally conservative profession.

>>just my $.02

>>allison
Fwiw and my $.02,
Cynthia

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From: Jim Dew <dewj@eou.edu>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Embellishment for Long Tunic
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 18:47:02 -0800
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-Poster: Jim Dew <dewj@eou.edu>

Tablet woven trim would be perfect. I have some fairly nice pieces I would 
be willing to part with for a nominal sum, although I don't think I have 
the right colors. Maybe we should talk about some custom trim. I could whip 
something up for him very inexpensively. How about something brocade-like?
My period is 12th century, too, but I am not playing at this time, being 
stuck in the mountains. I would love to do some commission work, just for 
the practice. I would rather trade than be paid. E-mail me and we will 
talk.
Or I would be glad to help you if you want to make it yourself. I have lots 
of experience using tabletwoven pieces as trim, too.
Rowan
Dewm@eou.edu

Someone said:


I'm wondering if a fancy tablet-woven braid may be an option.
As late 12th century isn't my period at the moment, I can't remember if the
tablet-woven edging is OK, but I have seen it on 11th century reenactors,
and I'm sure I've seen it on 12th and 13th century reenactors too. There 
are
surely others on the list who could tell us of it's authenticity for the
period.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:09:10 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Well, I can't relate to the '70s experience because I was a little kid but it
does seem that long hair on men did become more acceptable in that decade than in
the previous decades-the entire first part of this century featured close-cut
hair for men, especially the 1950s. Even men with short hair styles seemed to
have long sideburns or just that strange seventies' hair style, like Kotters'
modified white 'fro on "Welcome Back Kotter."  I really think geography has alot
to do w/what one can get away w/ in terms of long hair, streaks, piercings, etc.
Anyway most men w/long hair don't walk into a job interview w/their hair down.

~Lisa

> <Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that
> Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that Graphic
> Artist opening at the ad agency?>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:26:41 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

My husband and son are growing their hair out right now.  My husband wants
to put his in a braid down his back.  He is a professional <computer geek>,
dress clothes and tie.  Both of them have thick curly hair and are tired of
trying to find a hairstyle to get rid of the poof.  <<<Quit laughing
Charlene>>>  Long hair on men seems acceptable here in Richmond.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:26:39 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 22:48:36 -0500
From: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>
Organization: The Curiosity Shop
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-Poster: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>

-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

> I saw a preview of Anna and the King last night.  A real GO SEE....the
thing that stood > out as wrong was she had skirts and blouses on for
most of the movie.

You have a good eye. Yes, not only were the mismatched skirts and
bodices wrong, the cuts were wrong as well. Dropped armscyes are a key
feature of mid 19th c. women's garments and her bodices had modern set-n
sleeves. Her hair was usually dressed quite well if a bit youthful for a
widow with a son his age. I just wish she would have tied her bonnet and
hat on properly just once... At the very least though she was wearing a
corset, the bodices fit her torso correctly and she wasn't wearing
enormous hoops.
All that said, I LOVED the movie! I'm so glad I don't know anything
about Siamese clothing of any time period so I could just revel in the
color and the exotic qualities of all of it. I thought the sets,
scenery, acting, etc. were all wonderful. I wasn't watching it for
history, but for a good story and I got that. I do want to read a more
accurate account of Anna's time in Siam though, just so I know for my
personal information.

Glenna Jo Christen (Lurker)
gwjchris@rust.net
Visit our web site, "The Curiosity Shop"
http://www.rust.net/~gwjchris/


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Underpinnings books
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 11:35 PM 12/15/99 -0800, Dawn wrote:
>
>-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
>
>Another useful book is the history of underclothes by cunnington. I
>don't think it's in print anymore but you may be able to pick it up
>somewhere.
>
>Dawn

In 1992, Dover re-published the Cunningtons' book in a very affordable
edition. Here's the info:

"The History of Underclothes" by C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington.
        ISBN 0-486-27124-2 (paper)

You can obtain a free catalog from Dover by mail (only, no phone ordering,
no email, no web page): Dover Publications, Inc., Dept. 23, 31 East 2nd
Street, Mineola, NY 11501. Specify your area of interest (e.g., costume).

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:37:52 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 19:56:36 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>


Stephen, do you have a brother who is single?  You are most assuredly a
rare find.  

Islyle 

> I say keep the tunic, dump the lord!  I love everything that my wife has
> ever made for me.  And to turn your nose up at a handmade anniversary
> present is just.........too rotten for words.  I may not be 100% crazy
about
> everything she has ever made for me, but I would never tell her that,
> because it's not the items that maters it the love that went into making
it.
> 
> Yours Stephen
> 
> "Oh well, the best layed plans of mice."
> "And men."
> "Men?  What have men got to do with it!"
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: S Nielsen [mailto:s_nielsen@canada.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 2:04 PM
> To: sca-garb@list.uvm.edu
> Cc: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. The
tunic
> is long (just past the knees), made from red/scarlet wool gabardine, with
> the sleeves and hem trimmed with 2 inch wide bands of royal blue wool
crepe.
> There is also a white cotton undertunic that goes with it, which is
machine
> embroidered in red and blue, showing at the neck, sleeves and hem.
> 
> I had made this ensemble for my lord as an anniversary present, and I was
> hoping that it would change his mind as to the fact that T-tunics can't
be
> fancy, or for court garb. Unfortunately I got my hopes up too high, it
> seems.
> 
> My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a
dress,
> it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average person
> can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on it
> (even then....?).  
> 
> So, I am posting to find out what my fellow costumers can suggest that I
do
> with this. I have seen some trim at the fabric store (leaf/fleur-de-lis
> scroll work on black in silver thread), but I am reluctant to put that on
> for several reasons. First, it's $6/m. Second, I want this tunic to be as
> period as humanly possible (its one of the first pieces I have done that
I
> would consider competing with). And third, it is very difficult to place
> straight trim on a curved seam (like the neck or hem).
> 
> I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My
> experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made.
> (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what
> stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The
> intended period is very late 12th century.
> 
> Help me out once again, all you marvelous people!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Meghan of Caerleon 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE personalized e-mail at http://www.canada.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:57:29 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fwd: OT: QEI Poll
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:27:39 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Bette Davis was not included.  That's a shame.

Kathlene

> 
> >Not a particularly interesting bit of knowledge, but one pertinant to
> >our little cause.  The Internet Movie Database is currently taking a
> >poll on who has played the best Queen Elizabeth.  Cate Blanchett is in
> >the lead with Judi Dench in a relatively close second.  For all of you
> >interested in placing your votes the URL is:
> >
> >http:\\www.imdb.com
> 
> LynnD

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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 4:18:51 AM !!!First Boot!!!, 
khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:

<< Bette Davis was not included.  That's a shame.
 
 Kathlene
  >>

She was when I went there and looked...along with Glenda Jackson and I forget 
the other
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 22:31:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 23:50:01 EST
Subject: H-COST: RE: Underpinnings books
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

A recent post asked

>>- -Poster: scootnik@ix.netcom.com

Hi All, I'm new here and new to Costuming as well. Could some one please 
suggest a book (or two...) that gives the proper undergarments to wear for 
period costumes. I'd like a book specifically on Corsetry as well. The time 
span needs to be fairly wide for both subjects, I'd like a good overview 
rather that a book on just one era. Thanks for your help, please excuse if 
this subject has been covered here before, Lynne>>

An excellent reference for what are usually called corsets from mid-19th 
Century through 1934 is a book by someone on this list

Corsets:  A Visual History
Compiled by R. L. Shep
ISBN 0-914046-20-9
my early copy was $26.95; I am not sure of the present price.

If you are interested in a certain period or style later on, come back on the 
list.  There are other books better for particular periods.  Happy hunting.

Joan McTeer in Minneapolis delurking for her favorite topic
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 23:04:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:15:03 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



Megan McConnell wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
> 
> >And wouldn't a presentation of  historical Santas be stunning?
> 
> Kate
> 
> Stop it at once!  There is only 1.5 weeks til christmas - and evil minds
> (OK:  costuming minds - same thing really <g>) work overtime.
> 

<snip>

Don't you mean 53.5 weeks?  Lots of time.

Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 23:43:14 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dressing for the Occasion
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 22:03:36 -0800
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

The 60's did away with so many things that were great - now the next
generation (which I'm in) seems to be working to pick up the pieces and
learn about the "lost" traditions, and clothing is such a great place to
start!

But now that I've admitted my ignorance about things pre- 60's-
wear-jeans-everywhere styles, I have to ask - just what are the essential
differences between a cocktail dress and a dinner dress?  And, of course,
how did these details change in the last 200 years in Western European
society? (perhaps showing a bit too much ignorance here with such an open
question, but willing to take the chance!).  In fact, is there a date when
dresses for distinctive social occasions became the norm?

Zelda

-----Original Message-----
>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/15/1999 3:39:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>kayta@slip.net writes:
>
><< Are there, in fact, *always*
> such fashion individualists?  >>
>
>I'd say not in social circles....where *fashion* originates [Working people
>do not create fashion.....unless of course someone in the social set
decides
>a "work look" is fashionable.] Remember there are often strict rules as to
>what one may wear to where ever...the opera, a ball, court. Could we tell
the
>difference between an opera gown & a ball gown? Someone in every period
could.
>My mother laments to this day about: "Everything was great 'til the 60s and
>that 'do your own thing' mentality." What she means is before the 60's you
>wore a cocktail dress for a cocktail party and a dinner dress to a dinner
>party. You didn't just wear jeans everywhere.
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 00:18:03 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 22:36:59 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dressing for the Occasion
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>The 60's did away with so many things that were great - now the next
>generation (which I'm in) seems to be working to pick up the pieces and
>learn about the "lost" traditions, and clothing is such a great place to
>start!

Well, but in the '60's (late '60's) i wore lots of vintage clothing - 
mostly 20's and 30's (as i don't much care for the '40's styles), 
some turm of the century, including hats, shoes, handbags, and 
outerwear.  So every generation does some picking up of the pieces of 
seemingly lost traditions.

>But now that I've admitted my ignorance about things pre- 60's-
>wear-jeans-everywhere styles, I have to ask - just what are the essential
>differences between a cocktail dress and a dinner dress?  And, of course,
>how did these details change in the last 200 years in Western European
>society? (perhaps showing a bit too much ignorance here with such an open
>question, but willing to take the chance!).  In fact, is there a date when
>dresses for distinctive social occasions became the norm?

Having been born at the century mid-point, i did experience cocktail 
dresses and the tail end of dinner dresses.

I *think* that a cocktail dress was shorter than a dinner dress and 
less foofy, often sleeveless, and often black, while a dinner dress 
was stylistically fussier, longer sleeved, might include chiffon, 
rhinestones, be more colorful... I'm speaking of the 1950's here. I 
can't say what the distinction was prior to this.

In the 1930's i seem to recall that similar issues hold true - 
sleeker cut, sleeveless, single or limited colors for the 
cocktailwear, and foofier styles for the longer sleeved dinner 
dresses - of course in the 30's both cocktail and dinner dresses were 
often ankle or floor length.

And after the 1960's, it wasn't "jeans everywhere" like it is now. In 
the early '70's a woman in Chicago still had to wear a dress or skirt 
to have lunch in a *nice* restaurant.  And by the late 70's you still 
had to dress up, even if you were wearing pants.

My mom was shocked when my folks moved to California in the early 
'70's and she saw women in tennis outfits in nice restaurants in 
Beverly Hills. But, then, there's a significant difference in 
clothing styles and standards in different parts of the US, much many 
of us don't always realize this. (this may have come to light a bit 
in the tattoo thread...)

There was a restaurant in Santa Barbara at which not only did the 
women have to look "nice", but men had to wear ties - they kept a 
stash by the door so that any man lacking in the proper neckwear 
could be supplied without having to be turned away - and this 
throughout the 1970's.

Lilinah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 01:17:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 17:27:13 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: clothing mistakes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I've tried to resist, but I'm going to have to jump in on this. If you don't
want to hear any more on the subject, please feel free to delete this right
now. (I've deliberately left no attribution on the quote.)

> What if those in our society who choose to wear what you consider
> unusual fashions were to stare and turn up their nose at YOU when
> you considered yourself dressed normally and decently?

They would be perfectly within their rights. You have the right to wear what
you wish. We reserve the right to make fun of you for it. ;-) (Same thing goes
for tattoos and piercings.)

> They would be rude of course, and so would you if you did the same
> to them.

No, they would be human. People have various reactions to each other.
Laughing, staring or turning up one's nose are normal reactions, not being
rude. For all I know, people turn their nose up at me on a daily basis. That's
their right, and I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

> Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person with a disability?
> Of course not.

Don't be so sure. I've got an acquaintance that was driving his motorcycle
down a dirt road filled with ruts at 3 am after a long night of heavy
drinking. As might be expected, he lost control of the bike and as a result
he's short a spleen. A year later he shattered his hip riding up the side of a
ravine and dropping 40' down the other side. He walks with a limp due to his
own stupidity and I think he's worthy of my sarcastic humor. ;-)

> The fact that someone is different should not open them up to
> ridicule and rebuke, unless they are doing something that is
> harmful to YOU. That is my point.

Let's face it, you are welcome to wear whatever you like or change your body
in any way that you please (within the law of course). But, none of these
things make you immune to other people forming an opinion about it. Putting a
chip on your shoulder is asking to have it knocked off. Most of the time, I
won't bother taking the bait.

> And by the way, I am not offended for myself, but offended that
> rational and mature people could be so petty and juvenile.

Rational and mature people don't call others petty and juvenile. If others are
offended, you're better off letting them defend themselves.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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Subject: H-COST: Long tunic
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-Poster: griffinhold@usa.net


> My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a
>dress, it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the >average
person can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more >embellishment on
it (even then....?).  
> So, I am posting to find out what my fellow costumers can suggest that I
>do with this. 

Oooh... rotten, rotten to the core.  My lord is like Stephen and loves
everything I make for him (or is too polite to say otherwise, but still wears
it!)  The tunic sounds lovely though and shouldn't need embellishment.  But if
he insists...  another suggestion besides the tablet woven braid would be to
use wool on wool applique outlined with couched gilded leather.  (Folks, help
me here - I'm thinking of the Tristan and Isolde hanging at the V&A.  I'm
brain dead though and blanking on the dates)  It looks spiff and is simple and
easy to do without lots of embroidery experience.

Lyn Gillespie

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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Was ugly clothes, now Anne of Cleves
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 20:53:01 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>



>
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
> There are several dresses from that part of Germany in M. Davenport's
> costume book.  My copy is so old it doesn't have an ISBN number - sorry.
>
> >   Has anyone made a copy of the dress Anne of Cleves wore for the
betrothal
> >portrait?

Thanks!  I have that book on my list to check out at the library. I'll put
an asterisk by it now.

Michelle

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 00:43:27 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Meghan of Caerleon wrote:
>A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. 
>The tunic is long (just past the knees), made from red/scarlet wool 
>gabardine, with the sleeves and hem trimmed with 2 inch wide bands 
>of royal blue wool crepe. There is also a white cotton undertunic 
>that goes with it, which is machine embroidered in red and blue, 
>showing at the neck, sleeves and hem.
>
>I had made this ensemble for my lord as an anniversary present, and 
>I was hoping that it would change his mind as to the fact that 
>T-tunics can't be fancy, or for court garb. Unfortunately I got my 
>hopes up too high, it seems.
>
>My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a 
>dress, it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the 
>average person can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more 
>embellishment on it (even then....?).

YOUR outfit for him sounds beautiful and i think he should certainly 
have been more appreciative.

>I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My 
>experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have 
>made. (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no 
>idea what stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to 
>use, etc. The intended period is very late 12th century.

My consort is Norman, early 12th century. He likes to make his own 
stuff (we are just friends). He made a deep orange twill wool tunic, 
around knee length, and sewed yellow-orange heather wool on the cuffs 
and neck (it matches his red hair exactly!). He cut the neck trim 
cloth like a facing but sewed it to the outside of the tunic.

We were researching period decoration and all we could find was trim 
at neck, cuff, and hem with either circles, or lozenges, or 
alternating squares and lozenges. It's a relatively plain period.

Then he embroidered a pattern of alternating circles and lozenges on 
the neck and cuff trim - he isn't much of a perfectionist, so i don't 
imagine it's very exact, but, hey! he did all this himself! He 
outlined each shape with stem stitch and filled it with couched laid 
work (he was "inspired" by the Bayeux embroidery i did and gave him 
as a "favor") completely filling the circles and lozenges.

You could make a neck facing with the royal blue wool if you have 
enough left over. You could cut in one piece, or two pieces (front 
and back, or left and right) or even three pieces (back, front left, 
and front right). You could couch the outline of simple shapes in 
gold metallic cord or rich yellow wool, then fill with red and white, 
on the blue. Just suggestions - naturally you will have your own 
solutions or ideas.

Check out the stitches in the Bayeux "Tapestry" - stem stitch, and 
couched laid word which work up pretty quickly - i made a small piece 
of Bayeux style embroidery. The URL Merouda the True of Beaumaris 
sent:
http://www.regia.org/embroid.htm
shows how to do couched laid work in the black and white sketches at 
the bottom of the page.

If your lord doesn't appreciate all you work, i don't know what to 
say. Perhaps he needs a new persona in a period with fancier men's 
clothes "-)

Lilinah
SCA'ly known as
Anahita Gauri al-shazhiya bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:52:01 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Waaah!  The posting copied below is the first I've seen of that 
subject.  Am I missing some posts?  If so, could someone please 
send me the message this is following up on as it sounds 
interesting!

> From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:46:41 -0800
> Subject: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
> 
> - -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.
> 
> Merouda/Cynthia
> 
> - --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:57:04 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> And its correlation: The bobbin thread always runs out six inches
> before the end of a 10 yard hem! 

I Hate it when that happens, so hve invested in several packs of 
bobbins.  I have at least two full of each colour I use a lot at all 
times and one of the less fequently used colours (hey, *everyone 
has favourites they use more often than others...<g>)  If I'm 
heading into a *big* job I'll wind a few extra bobbins before I start.  
It's still a pain but there's always another full bobbin to pop in when 
the one I'm using runs out.

Like all good plans, there's a flaw.  I have to *remember* to refil the 
empties.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:13:53 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

If I might make a suggestion, Meghan....

> I may have made things sound more extreme than they are. Dumping my
> lord and keeping the tunic isn't really an option I am willing to
> consider. :-)
>
>
> >  If he's  willing to "flatly reject" an anniversary gift,
> > putting embroidery on it's not going to make him change his
> >  mind. 
> 
> I think it will. 

Have you considered *asking* this man of yours what he *want's for 
court garb and making him that?

Then, you won't be wasting your time making things he won't wear.

If he doesn't know what he wants, tell him to stop grumbling, make 
do with what he has and let you know when he's made up his mind.

Just a suggestion....





Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: History of Paisley?
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 06:29:49 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Are the origins of paisley from the middle east?  When did it become
fashionable in western fashion?


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Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< Are the origins of paisley from the middle east?  When did it become
 fashionable in western fashion? >>

The origins are Indian, I believe, and it became fashionable during Victorian 
times.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 07:43:31 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'aleed@dnaco.net'" <aleed@dnaco.net>,
        "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Corset fitting questions
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 07:02:56 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

I finally finished my first corset.  I used the corset generator on the
"Elizabethan Costuming Page", and modified it so it was boned like the
corset in Janet Arnold's book for the Pfalzgrafin (sp?).  I should preface
my questions by saying that I intend to make another corset-this was a trial
run.  My questions are:

When you take your breast measurement, should you be wearing a bra?  I think
I made a mistake by wearing mine, consequently I can't tighten it enough
(the edges meet).

Should you tighten it at the waist so that the tabs stick out?  (My metal
stays go down into the tabs unlike the pattern in JAs) They seem to be
riding on my hips, and I think I will get chafed.  They are sticking
straight down.  It may be difficult to tighten because of the following:

This one may be difficult to visualize.  I couldn't fit a grommet in right
at the waist, the junction of the main body of the corset to the tab because
of the boning going down the center back.  The center back is not parallel
to the tab, it is at ~45 degree angle.  (I tried to draw the right side
below).  Consequently there isn't enough room between the boning going down
the center back and the first stay to put a grommet.  There is enough room
to put a hand stitched hole.  Do you all make it parallel, leave the tab
off, or leave the boning out?, or put in hand stitched holes?  

 		              /
		 	 /
		           /  _   _
	                       I_I  I_I
                                  	
Finally, I did take your suggestions and ordered precut stays.  I used the
1/2 for the majority of the stays, only using 1/4 at the center back.  Do
you like the 1/4 better?  I could see where they might make a more refined
looking corset, would it be more comfortable?

Thanks for your input ahead!

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 07:47:23 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Corset fitting questions
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 07:06:38 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Well, I see that my drawing didn't make it.  Hope the verbal description is
enough.

-----Original Message-----
From: Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001) 
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 7:03 AM
To: 'aleed@dnaco.net'; 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: H-COST: Corset fitting questions



-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

I finally finished my first corset.  I used the corset generator on the
"Elizabethan Costuming Page", and modified it so it was boned like the
corset in Janet Arnold's book for the Pfalzgrafin (sp?).  I should preface
my questions by saying that I intend to make another corset-this was a trial
run.  My questions are:

When you take your breast measurement, should you be wearing a bra?  I think
I made a mistake by wearing mine, consequently I can't tighten it enough
(the edges meet).

Should you tighten it at the waist so that the tabs stick out?  (My metal
stays go down into the tabs unlike the pattern in JAs) They seem to be
riding on my hips, and I think I will get chafed.  They are sticking
straight down.  It may be difficult to tighten because of the following:

This one may be difficult to visualize.  I couldn't fit a grommet in right
at the waist, the junction of the main body of the corset to the tab because
of the boning going down the center back.  The center back is not parallel
to the tab, it is at ~45 degree angle.  (I tried to draw the right side
below).  Consequently there isn't enough room between the boning going down
the center back and the first stay to put a grommet.  There is enough room
to put a hand stitched hole.  Do you all make it parallel, leave the tab
off, or leave the boning out?, or put in hand stitched holes?  

 		              /
		 	 /
		           /  _   _
	                       I_I  I_I
                                  	
Finally, I did take your suggestions and ordered precut stays.  I used the
1/2 for the majority of the stays, only using 1/4 at the center back.  Do
you like the 1/4 better?  I could see where they might make a more refined
looking corset, would it be more comfortable?

Thanks for your input ahead!

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 07:50:29 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:09:12 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: tattoos etc. (ok to skip)
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



It's not realistic to expect everyone to like or even respect a particular 
type of clothing or decoration style. It's avoiding reality to pretend that 
everything is regarded as equal. It's downright rude (IMO) to tattoo or 
pierce yourself in a spot that people can't avoid looking at and then dare 
them not to even THINK anything about you. Same goes for clothes. If you want 
to defy convention, then you have to expect that some people, maybe even a 
majority of people, will think less of you. If that bothers you, if you think 
of that as an insult rather than a challenge, then you picked the wrong way 
to defy convention.  At least today you won't get burned at the stake or 
otherwise punished for unnatural behavior, or considered insane, as so many 
people were in the past.

I don't know any of the tattooed or pierced people on this list. I can't 
judge their characters or actions. But I can tell you that IN GENERAL, I 
think both tattoos and piercings are stupid. I don't have any religious 
reasons, I am not politically conservative. I just think that they are either 
frivolous fashion statements, which are as fun and harmless as big-legged 
pants or shiny fabric shirts, or else they are defiant statements that invite 
reaction -- and that's the reaction I have. If people are so angry at 
"society" that they want to make a statement, they should try leading a 
remarkable life (doing something to make things better for people) rather 
than looking remarkable.
I know that some people dress and decorate themselves as a way to express 
their actions or lifestyles, but it seems to me that more people just want to 
look weird and be angry, without doing anything. Looking at them, I have no 
way to tell which is which. And if they want to do it, fine. But that's what 
I'm going to think about it.

And to bring this back to historic costuming . . . I think that people have 
always felt this way about bizarre fashions. Certainly there is enough 
published invective against particular styles, from hennins to pointy toed 
shoes. Once a style is far enough in the past (as seems to have happened with 
hippie clothes), it becomes quaint and fun. Maybe we should remember, when 
we're recreating aesthetic dress or giant codpieces or whatever, that these 
were not considered harmless eccentricities at the time, but shocking attacks 
on society. Maybe, in our recreation groups or events, we should try treating 
them that way -- especially if we have an audience. It would certainly add a 
new dimension to reenactments!

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 08:00:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:19:45 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: embellishments for long tunic
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com


Suggestions? How about marriage counseling? What a rude, disrespectful, 
unappreciative, downright nasty way to treat you! I'd put the ensemble in the 
closet (or sell it for a hefty sum) and spend my time finding a good 
therapist (or a good lawyer). Sewing can't fix everything.

Sorry, Meghan, but you have the same name as my daughter, and I can only 
imagine what I'd say to my daughter if someone treated her that way -- 
especially someone who is supposed to love her!

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 08:15:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:33:54 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: tattoos etc. (ok to skip)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 6:11:13 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< 
 It's not realistic to expect everyone to like or even respect a particular 
 type of clothing or decoration style. It's avoiding reality to pretend that 
 everything is regarded as equal.  >>


The "pretense" comment was made by a list member, as an assumption about me.
I never stated anything about pretending.  My comment was we should 
appreciate the diverse aspects of one another, and NOT judge others.    

Think about it,  if you will, my friends.   It matters not if you agree, or 
if we are all of the same belief.  What matters is NOT JUDGING our fellow 
man.  Freedom of expression is our right.  

Darla
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To: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
cc: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Corset fitting questions
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


> I finally finished my first corset.  I used the corset generator on the
> "Elizabethan Costuming Page", and modified it so it was boned like the
> corset in Janet Arnold's book for the Pfalzgrafin (sp?).  I should preface
> my questions by saying that I intend to make another corset-this was a trial
> run.  My questions are:
> 
> When you take your breast measurement, should you be wearing a bra?  I think
> I made a mistake by wearing mine, consequently I can't tighten it enough
> (the edges meet).

Even with a bra, the edges shouldn't meet...though if you have a large
bosom and a relatively small waist measurement, this will sometimes occur.
My first corset didn't fit quite right, either.
> 
> Should you tighten it at the waist so that the tabs stick out?  (My metal
> stays go down into the tabs unlike the pattern in JAs) They seem to be
> riding on my hips, and I think I will get chafed.  They are sticking
> straight down.  It may be difficult to tighten because of the following:
> 
I'm having trouble visualizing this...if you have boning going down into
the tabs, don't the tabs flare out over the hips when you tighten the
corset at the waist?  You should tighten the corset enough so that it
feels secure, but not so much that you feel uncomfortable or have trouble
breathing deeply; Elizabethan corsets aren't designed to "sculpt" the body
the way Victorian corsets were.

> below).  Consequently there isn't enough room between the boning going down
> the center back and the first stay to put a grommet.  There is enough room
> to put a hand stitched hole.  Do you all make it parallel, leave the tab
> off, or leave the boning out?, or put in hand stitched holes?  

I would recommend hand-stitched holes.
>                                   	
> Finally, I did take your suggestions and ordered precut stays.  I used the
> 1/2 for the majority of the stays, only using 1/4 at the center back.  Do
> you like the 1/4 better?  I could see where they might make a more refined
> looking corset, would it be more comfortable?

Both are about the same comfort level for me...if you want a truly
comfortable corset, a corset boned with bundles of broomstraw is far and
away the most comfortable type I've worn.  

Good luck,

Drea

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:08:09 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 6:48:51 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
SNSpies@aol.com writes:

<< The origins are Indian, I believe, and it became fashionable during 
Victorian 
 times.
 
 Nancy >>
 Forgive my poor menopausal mind, but I seem to remember something about the 
paisley motifs representing the eye of peacock feathers, something to do with 
Hindu mythology.  Cheryl Odom
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:14:50 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fwd: OT: QEI Poll
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

YES, I'd vote for Glenda Jackson!!

Kim


At 11:26 PM 12/15/1999 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/16/99 4:18:51 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
>khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:
>
><< Bette Davis was not included.  That's a shame.
>
>  Kathlene
>   >>
>
>She was when I went there and looked...along with Glenda Jackson and I forget
>the other
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13c buttons
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> I am about to start on my next project.....a blue velvet cotehardie.  I
>>want to use silver buttons up the sleeves, and I need to know what kind
>>of buttonhole was used.  Were they like our modern "shirtfront" style, or
>>were they the loop kind, or perhaps something else?  This gown is going
>>to be very special, so I want it to be right.
>
>The button holes were regular buttonholes sewn using the button hole
>stitch.  At this time, they didn't have the rounded edge at each end.
>Just a row of buttonhold stitch on each side of the cut.  And FWIW, your
>gown is 14th century.  :)  I love blue velvet, sounds gorgeous.  Is it
>cotton or acetate?  That determines whether or not you
>cut the holes before or after you stitch them simply because the acetate
>ravels easily.


What kind of button would you use? Were the front pierced button
appropriate or were they using post buttons?

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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References: <A8BBD321A5@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:34:52 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I Hate it when that happens, so hve invested in several packs of
> bobbins.  I have at least two full of each colour I use a lot at all
> times and one of the less fequently used colours (hey, *everyone
> has favourites they use more often than others...<g>)  If I'm
> heading into a *big* job I'll wind a few extra bobbins before I start.
> It's still a pain but there's always another full bobbin to pop in when
> the one I'm using runs out.


I love this! When the bobbin runs out for me, I usually just take it as a
sign that I need a small break.

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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Corset fitting questions
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>



<Both are about the same comfort level for me...if you want a truly
<comfortable corset, a corset boned with bundles of broomstraw is far and
<away the most comfortable type I've worn.  

<Good luck,

<Drea
EEEEEK!  I don't think I'll take on that much authenticity yet!! <g>
Thank you for your suggestions!  Makes me feel better that not even the
expert got it right the very first time!  

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:47:44 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: changing attitudes 
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>>>granted, i do not work in a high visibility position (web
>developer/programmer) but i think you can get away with more extreme styles
>than say, 5 years ago, in the work place......

I think the computer industry has accelerated the loosening of corporate
expectations of appearance.  If you desperately need a hot-shot
super-nerd programmer/webmaster/etc. and the person who can do the 
job wears a pony-tail or has a pierced nose or purple hair, as an
employer, you get over it really quick if the person can walk out the
door and be hired by your competitor that afternoon. The computer
industry's early formation as a "garage" industry of younger
people with little concern for corporate image (image and its accompanying 
restrictions almost killed IBM, remember?) has been a driving force.

I offer for proof Bill Gates.  Everyone jokes about him cutting his own 
hair and dressing like a high-school a-v club member---but he is the
wealthiest human on our planet. 

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Subject: H-COST: UK Costume Convention
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hello all,

Anyone interested in attending the CostumeCon UK 2000 (Please 
note this is *not* anything to do with  "Costume Con," just similar 
in name) they now have a web page up at

www.yorkmpd.demon.co.uk

I'm nothing to do with the convention other than planning to attend 
it.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: H-COST: Italian Ren again
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-Poster: ches@io.com

What is the best book out there for making Italian Ren costumes?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #870
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Gail Finke wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>>  If you want 
to defy convention, then you have to expect that some people, maybe even a 
majority of people, will think less of you. If that bothers you, if you think 
of that as an insult rather than a challenge, then you picked the wrong way 
to defy convention. 

Well said! I have absolutely no compunction about staring at those of our students who have green hair or whatever, if I feel like it, as I reckon they're doing it to invite attention. (I'm more likely to avert my eyes from pierced faces, though - the bare idea of sticking bits of metal through sensitive parts of one's anatomy makes my flesh creep!)

My own pet fashion peeve is "designer stubble". There may be a certain macho appeal about a man being unshaven for a good reason, but stubble worn with smart clothes just looks scruffy IMHO. I suppose it's just a question of the search for something new.

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:29:29 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  it has been suggested by some anthropologists that primitive peoples
>  actually started the practice of tattooing and other body modifications
>  partly to differentiate themselves from animals - after all, animals dont
>  dye/braid/shave their hair, wear jewelry, or mark their bodies. it could
be
>  that as we have moved away from living close to nature making the
difference
>  between animals and humans doesnt need to be as explicit, and the reason
the
>  west has traditionally viewed body modifications as "bad" or "strange" is
>  because it is associated with these less "advanced" people.

There is also evidence that tattooing has been used for medical/magical
reasons. On the skin of the fellow that was found in the Austrian Alps a few
years ago, as well as others, are marks that correspond to places that had
injuries and illness. The patterns are very different from what might be
considered clan or tribal, or even decorative.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> What kind of button would you use? Were the front pierced button
> appropriate or were they using post buttons?

A small knob button with a shank (post) or a cloth button with a shank sewn
on.  Check out the Museum of London Textiles & Clothing or Dress Accessories.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 10:50:34 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Bad bunny!  See below.  Cynthia

> Waaah!  The posting copied below is the first I've seen of that
> subject.
>
> > Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.

Opus Anglicanum: English Medieval Embroidery
The Victoria & Albert Musuem
26 September to 24 November 1963
The Arts Council 1963
Printed in England at The Curwen Press, Plaistow, Long E.13
Exhibit selected by Donald King, deputy keeper of Textiles at the V&S
(at the time)
No ISBN

Plate 14 shows appliqued Opus Anglicanum onto velvet.  But the velvet
is *exactly* like waleles corduroy.  And it is on an Alb, clerical of
course, but still a garment.


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:27:39 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

There are a number of explanations of what this design actually is..... It
is refered to as a *kalga* or *mango*... also it is said to come from the
Urdu word *galb* meaning *hook*.
A very interesting explanation of this term which is found in *The Sari* by
Linda Lynton is as follows:
*The kalga motif is now so ubiquitous in Indian sari and other textile
designs that it is hard to imagine it is only about 250 years old. It
evolved from 17th Century floral and tree-of-life designs that were created
in expensive, tapestry-woven Mughal textiles, primarily patkas - sashes -
made for the Mughal court.  The early designs depicted simple plants with
large flowers and thin wavy stems, small leaves and roots.  In the course of
time the design became denser, with more flowers and leaves, giving rise to
tree-of-life and mixed floral patterns issuing from vases or a pair of
leaves.  By the late 18th Century the archetypal curved point at the top of
an ellipitical outline had evolved.  The kalgas created on Kashmir shawls,
which became the fashion in Europe for over a century, were certainly the
most imaginative and intricate; and it was from the imitations of these
shawls woven in factories at Paisley, Scotland, that the name 'paisley' was
derived, still commonly used in Euopre and the United States.*
She goes on to talk about the asociation with both mango and hook in
different languages of India.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Cheryldee@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
>Date: Thu, Dec 16, 1999, 7:08 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/16/99 6:48:51 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
>SNSpies@aol.com writes:
>
><< The origins are Indian, I believe, and it became fashionable during 
>Victorian 
> times.
> 
> Nancy >>
> Forgive my poor menopausal mind, but I seem to remember something about
the 
>paisley motifs representing the eye of peacock feathers, something to do
with 
>Hindu mythology.  Cheryl Odom
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  Stephen, do you have a brother who is single?  You are most assuredly a
>  rare find.  

No, no! Much too risky! Brothers can be as different as night and day. I say
we wrestle Stephen to the ground and clone him!

Kate - she who would not mind a gentleman to decorate . . . ;)
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:50:58 -0800
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Sorry Ladies, but I am one of kind.  As to a blood sample, sorry but I am
busy right now hand making my wife's Yule presents.  The necklace and
earrings are done, the candles have to be wrapped, and I have to put the
finishing touches to the chatelaine.  Maybe after the new year.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"



-----Original Message-----
From: StitchWitch [mailto:stitchwitch@excite.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 11:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic



-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  Stephen, do you have a brother who is single?  You are most assuredly a
>  rare find.  

No, no! Much too risky! Brothers can be as different as night and day. I say
we wrestle Stephen to the ground and clone him!

Kate - she who would not mind a gentleman to decorate . . . ;)
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 13:49:25 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:34:51 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Italian Ren. fan
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-Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>

At 04.52 +0100 99-12-14, don and carolyn richardson wrote:
>For cheaper books, try finding the Riverside series on
>various artists - I can recommend the one on Carpaccio.

	Seconded. Lots of nice pictures, *and* close ups, in this one. My
current banquet dress is inspired by the red dress worn by the bride in the
painting "Meeting of the Betrothed Couple and the Departure of the
Pilgrims". (Though mine is blue and the sleeves is not so elaborate. I like
it so much, and it fits me so well, that currently I have very little
incentive to make another "best dress" :-)

	Another cheap book with lots of nice colour photos is Phaidon
Press' _Renaissance Painting_. Other Phaidon books, like _Everyday-life
Painting_ and _Portrait Painting_, also have rather a lot of Italian
Renaissance paintings in them.

/Ninni Pettersson



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 13:53:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:10:40 EST
Subject: H-COST: Bad dye problem - Please help
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Dear List,

I just heard from a friend that a burgundy/fuschia gay nineties costume 
(stored in the dark) has begun to spot fade/bleach.  I believe the fabric was 
mostly polyester.  

Is there any way to re-dye this gown to salvage it? I'm told it has orange 
fade spots.

This was a costume I made some three years ago, but anything you can do to 
help me help her would be appreciated.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:30:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 14:46:10 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
In-Reply-To: <QQhtsz13266.199912152024@wodc7mr3.ffx.ops.us.uu.net>
References: <NDBBJDHCCMCECNKOPKNDAEHKCJAA.wandapease@bigfoot.com>
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 03:26 PM 12/15/99 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
>
>
> > Murphy's Laws of Sewing (Anonymous)
>
> > Whenever the construction process is going well the bobbin thread runs out.
>
>And its correlation: The bobbin thread always runs out six inches before 
>the end of a 10
>yard hem!

And another--The bobbin runs out at the _beginning_ of that 10-yard hem, 
but you don't realize it until you've finished "stitching" it!

Doris

Doris Nash   Ames, IA
Feed hungry children around the world--free!  Visit 
http://thehungersite.com to find out how.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:36:59 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  tattoos etc. 
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 14:58:31 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

This is a potpourri of several posts.............

> -Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu
> We sat back and watched her completely absorbed
> > in herself and her hair and ignore most of her customers.
> What makes that different from the bad service that I got last night
> from a very well, but very conventionally dressed, waitress, who was more
> interested in gossiping with the other servers, checking her mainstream,
but
> fashionable make-up, and trying not to mar her salon-done nails.  And I
went
> to high school with plenty of girls who looked like her who didn't do
squat in
> the classroom.
> And people like the one that I mentioned above, do you think that she
> wants to do research and wear *historical* clothing.  No, she will make a
> outfit that makes her look 20th-century pretty, not be caught dead in
proper
> head gear, and expect you to tell her how lovely she looks.

I don't disagree with you on either of these points except that this person
you are describing would probably NEVER be caught dead in costume/garb
anyway (I know plenty of girls like her), where the pierced/blue haired
practically costumes him/herself every day and would probably be more
likely to "Goth" up and go somewhere.

> My point (and I do have one) is that all groups of people contain
> people who are lazy and self-absorbed and that I have met (percentage
wise)
> more "normal" people who are like that as I have people who look strange.

Agree, I'm just tired of society telling me I have to accept people
(conventional or otherwise). I will accept people that are good and
honorable no matter what they look like by nature of by self definition. If
I give someone the impression that I don't approve - it has nothing to do
with what I see rather than what I perceive. What next,  is society going
to try to force me to accept "soccer moms"!

> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
 > It's not realistic to expect everyone to like or even respect a
particular 
> type of clothing or decoration style. 

Absolutely, and I do believe we are talking in generalizations with this
post.

> It's downright rude (IMO) to tattoo or 
> pierce yourself in a spot that people can't avoid looking at and then
dare 
> them not to even THINK anything about you.

We had a VERY interesting experience at the last Ren. Faire that we went
to. We were taking a break, sitting having a cup of coffee, and across form
us was a table full of young pierced, gothicish folks (18+). One of the
males had everything we could see multiple pierced, numerous ones on the
bridge of his nose, spiked hair and a TERRIBLE attitude. Even when someone
would innocently glance at him, he would mouth off. I noticed what was
going on so decided to "observe". I watched as people would look at him
(even just a glance -as people do in crowds) and every time he would
immediately pop-off about them staring at him, take a picture it'll last
longer, type of cockiness. He was NON-STOP attitude. We began to see him as
humorous (but wouldn't dare laugh at him - well, with him knowing anyway).
The wisdom of the child, "My 13 year old said, "If he didn't want people to
look at him then he shouldn't pierce himself all over like that to attract
the attention."

> Same goes for clothes. If you want 
> to defy convention, then you have to expect that some people, maybe even
a 
> majority of people, will think less of you. If that bothers you, if you
think 
> of that as an insult rather than a challenge, then you picked the wrong
way 
> to defy convention.  

Beautifully put. 

> I don't know any of the tattooed or pierced people on this list. 

I have no tattoos, never wanted one, but my husband has 3. He is going on
his third ponytail (I'm making a reliquary for his second one - a good foot
of a braid) and working on a ZZTop beard. He is also a very large man and
has his own set of issues as to people's stereotypes of big folks, had to
deal with a woman at work that was scared of him because of his size - even
though he's very charming and polite.....it was just his size. When he
asked his boss exactly what it was that he did, his boss said, "well, you
are big". He is a Technical Writer (for 14 years) Manager and has a college
degree in Anthropology. He is very intelligent, very well read, doesn't
drink alcohol or smoke, a vegetarian and very active......but a victim of
stereotyping.

> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> My husband and son are growing their hair out right now.  My husband
wants
> to put his in a braid down his back.  He is a professional <computer
geek>,
> dress clothes and tie.  Both of them have thick curly hair and are tired
of
> trying to find a hairstyle to get rid of the poof.  <<<Quit laughing
> Charlene>>>  Long hair on men seems acceptable here in Richmond.

My 13 and 8 year old sons wear their hair long. It's required. They
participate in the High School drama department - all plays except UIL
competition - the Middle School is the grooming station for the High School
drama department, so they let them audition for all the plays, the
elementary kids get to be townspeople - and the teacher/director requires
them (males and females) to grow their hair long. They do so many classics
and also have a wonderful summer program called Shakespeare Under the Stars
(http://www.emilyann.org/sutstars.html). The directors want them to all
have long hair instead of wigs. My 18 year old, that just graduated, cut
his hair right after his last Shakespeare. My 20 year old son wears his
hair short and looks very conservative..............which he definitely is
NOT! He's a trip :-)

You can't tell a book by it's cover, but you can definitely read an
out-and-out attitude!

Amanda
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:39:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:57:29 EST
Subject: H-COST: looking for...
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

Sorry for the waste of everyone's time, but would RL Shep and Penny Lanier 
mind contacting me off list with their email addresses...I would like to get 
an opinion from them.

Thanks,

Charles Burke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:54:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 13:15:01 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Does anyone besides me think that this thread is *WAY* off topic?
What does this have to do with Historical Costuming?  Current
attitudes, yes, historical?  Hmmmmm.  I reserve your right to talk
about this, but does it have to be here?

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

Greetings,

I feel that it is necessary to do some damage control here. Apparently, my original post was worded far more strongly than my situation warranted. I was attempting to provide some background for my request. Next time I will either not post or post my questions without any background, as it appears I have aired dirty laundry that doesn't exist.

I am truly grateful for those who emailed with suggestions for tablet woven trim, embroidery or couching. For those who responded with relationship advice, I wasn't soliciting for that.

For the record:
- my lord does not have bad manners. I would prefer to know the truth about how he feels towards something I have made him than have him hide it from me to spare my feelings, and this is the agreement we have always had in our relationship.
- my lord was not rude, rotten  or any of a number of other adjectives that have been applied to him. 
- we do not need marriage counselling, a lawyer or a messy break-up over my lord's tastes in garb.

I realize that I shouldn't have worded the original post the way I did, but it's too late now. My original post should have said, "I have a long tunic of such and such description. How can I make it fancier?" 

Its taken a long time for me to crawl out of lurker-dom, and this is enough to make me think six times before posting something. I will now return you to your regularly scheduled costuming list. Thanks for listening. :-)

Meghan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:02:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:20:29 EST
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 9:07:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
DDunker@aol.com writes:

<< You owe me an apology. >>

No I don't

<<You are right about one thing, if I skip the thread, I needn't be exposed 
to 
your narrowminded judgemental attitude.>>

Who's being judgmental now? I ask a question about a very obscure and obtuse 
statement that seems to make little sense to me and then calmly make a 
reasonable suggestion that you skip the thread rather than censor it.

Perhaps you owe us all an apology for asking us to stop a very interesting 
topic simply because YOU don't like it.

And I never called you names.

Lighten up!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:07:45 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Actually, the shawls originated in Kashmir, and the pine cone mutated to the 
paisley design.  They were fashionable starting in the early 19th century. 
Ladies also used them for dresses.  Machine-made imitations of the expensive 
hand-made shawls were made in Paisley, Scotland, among other places; hence, 
the name.  There are several good histories on the origins of the shawl.  I 
have momentarily lost my references, but can post them later.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:14:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:33:31 EST
Subject: H-COST: Cloned Stephen?  Was re:  embellishment for a long tunic
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 2:51:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, Bergdahl, 
Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us writes:

<< Sorry Ladies, but I am one of kind.  As to a blood sample, sorry but I am
 busy right now hand making my wife's Yule presents.  The necklace and
 earrings are done, the candles have to be wrapped, and I have to put the
 finishing touches to the chatelaine.  Maybe after the new year.
 
 Yours Stephen >>

Booo!!  Hiss!!   You're also a genial sadist, Stephen....evidently delighting 
in torturing the rest of costuming womankind who are not as lucky as your 
lady is.    :::wry grin:::  I hope she truly appreciates you.....  :)

~Morghana (who truly appreciates her S.O. for what he does, but it isn't 
ANYTHING like Stephen......)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I Hate it when that happens, so hve invested in several packs of 
>bobbins.  I have at least two full of each colour I use a lot at all 
>times and one of the less fequently used colours (hey, *everyone 
>has favourites they use more often than others...<g>)  If I'm 
>heading into a *big* job I'll wind a few extra bobbins before I start.  
>It's still a pain but there's always another full bobbin to pop in when 
>the one I'm using runs out.
>
>Like all good plans, there's a flaw.  I have to *remember* to refil the 
>empties.


This is one of the reasons I love my Singer 20U commercial machine.  The
bobbin winder is designed so that you can put a second cone or spool of
thread on the machine, thread up the bobbin, and it will wind while you
stitch.  By the time bobbin #1 is empty, #2 is full. 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:18:44 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:37:56 -0800
From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Here's a question for the list:

If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?

For me, the answer would be an exceedingly well-done Middle Eastern (can't give you a specific period - I don't know enought about it).  There's just something about the look that is visually appealing to me.

The other option would be high court Chinese - we have a costumer in my area who does T'ang Dynasty stuff that is to die for and I just drool whenever she goes all out.

Looking forward to seeing other responses,

Colleen


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:20:53 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:39:44 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: tattoos & attitudes OT
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 4:15:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< 
 Does anyone besides me think that this thread is *WAY* off topic?
 What does this have to do with Historical Costuming?  >>

Interestingly, it does have something to do with it. I, like a lot of you, 
spend my quality costume time with clothes and manners where tattooing would 
not be the norm. I never thought about it. But the discussion has brought to 
mind two specific instances of tattoos and historic situations.
In the film "The Bounty" Mel Gibson comes to dinner not wearing his high 
necked tunic because of the new tattoos on his neck he's gotten from the 
natives. The Capt. rebukes him and orders him to wear the tunic at the table. 
There. Tattooing as a costuming character statement. A clever use of it 
historically that enhances the show. That's what I like to see costumes do.
The other incident is a design for "Three Penny Opera" I saw where the 
designer gave Polly a butterfly tattoo on her bicep. Another...if more 
fantastical, statement enhancing character and plot thru costume.

I'm sure there are others....and others yet to be devised by clever 
designers.....who may have read this thread!

I wish people wouldn't get so emotional about it. You'd think we were 
discussing abortion or creationism! That's what is unpleasant about the 
thread. I certainly am not the ogre I'm supposed to be. I've never said I, 
myself, find tattoos trashy. Personally, it seems to me that a tattoo is like 
a drawing: every one is different. I find spider webs up the calf a little 
too much but I had a friend with a Yin/Yang about the size of a 1/2 dollar on 
his shoulder I thought nice.
All I've done is ask questions for discussion....mainly to stop irrational 
flaming posts from the over emotional who didn't read things too closely.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:24:04 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:43:53 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I've always wanted to do a wide wide 18th century pannier gown, but I have
no place (and the wrong figure) to wear it, so oh la, well there it is.
Think of all the money I've saved.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Colleen McDonald Hinrichs[SMTP:Colleen@mackie.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 16, 1999 3:37 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Dream costume?
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
> 
> Here's a question for the list:
> 
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
> completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe
> a better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely
> admire on others, but will probably never get around to making for
> yourself?
> 
> For me, the answer would be an exceedingly well-done Middle Eastern (can't
> give you a specific period - I don't know enought about it).  There's just
> something about the look that is visually appealing to me.
> 
> The other option would be high court Chinese - we have a costumer in my
> area who does T'ang Dynasty stuff that is to die for and I just drool
> whenever she goes all out.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing other responses,
> 
> Colleen
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From: "Ches" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s8590765.089@Mackie.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 05:43:01 -0600
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-Poster: "Ches" <ches@io.com>

For me it would be not only the costume but the body too, from the movie
GiGi, that white gown she wears when Gaston picks her up for their first
night out as a couple.

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 5:37 PM
Subject: H-COST: Dream costume?


>
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
> Here's a question for the list:
>
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:25:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:44:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: WAY OT - altering t-shirt
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

This is way out of the realm of these lists, but I
don't know where to go.  I have a new t-shirt that I
LOVE, but it has a high, man's-type neck, which i
don't like.  Is there some way to change the neck?  Uh
oh, i don't have a serger!  Thanks.

Kristen Morgaine Sieber
SCA Morgaine of Glastonbury


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:26:05 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 3:23:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< 
 Who's being judgmental now? I ask a question about a very obscure and obtuse 
 statement that seems to make little sense to me and then calmly make a 
 reasonable suggestion that you skip the thread rather than censor it.
 
 Perhaps you owe us all an apology for asking us to stop a very interesting 
 topic simply because YOU don't like it.
 
 And I never called you names.
 
 Lighten up!
  ____________________ >>
I see, I shall consider the source and refer future comments to more mature 
readers.

Darla

PS Your attitude is nasty
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:27:47 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

<Here's a question for the list:

<If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your <current interests, what would it be?



You don't ask the easy questions do you Colleen.  Well seeing there is
little in Historical costuming that I have not either tried or would try.
For me it would be making Armor.  I'm talking the real thing full suit of
steel armor.  Probably one of the fancier suits for the late Elizabethan.
With the fluting, and painted decoration, and of course silk padding with
lots of feathers.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:30:49 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 03:37 PM 12/16/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
>Here's a question for the list:
>
>If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a
better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire
on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?
>
Oooh, good question!

For me, it would be the ultimate unaffordable Elizabethan court gown: Custom
woven fabrics, metallic "tissue" and silver camlet.  real gold bullion and
jewel embroidery, hand made needle lace for the ruff, and proper jewelry.
Kid shoes with tiny pinking.  Buttons and aiglets with pierced hollows and
perfume inside.  Hand knitted silk stockings with silver clocks.

I might deign to use cultured pearls and synthetic rubies.

Margo Anderson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:33:03 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!


>-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
>Here's a question for the list:
>
>If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a
better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire
on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?


One thing comes to mind:

Ceremonial Byzantine--the type of thing an Empress would wear.

Susan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:38:40 1999
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

Could someone explain what tablet woven edging is? Thanks.

Pamela D. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:44:35 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 16:00:54 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  For me, it would be the ultimate unaffordable Elizabethan court gown:
Custom
>  woven fabrics, metallic "tissue" and silver camlet.  real gold bullion
and
>  jewel embroidery, hand made needle lace for the ruff, and proper jewelry.
>  Kid shoes with tiny pinking.  Buttons and aiglets with pierced hollows
and
>  perfume inside.  Hand knitted silk stockings with silver clocks.
>  
>  I might deign to use cultured pearls and synthetic rubies.

You just summed up my fantasy costume! But I'd use real rubies. No limits on
the dream, right? ;)

Now, if I had time, talent, cash/credit/extortion funds . . .

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: modern fashions
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 16:34:51 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Does anyone besides me think that this thread is *WAY* off topic?
What does this have to do with Historical Costuming?  Current
attitudes, yes, historical?  Hmmmmm.  I reserve your right to talk
about this, but does it have to be here?

I believe the list charter is Stone Age to the Jazz Age.  Here it is
"re-creating period costume, from the Bronze
age to the mid-20th Century".  Yes, 1999 clothing, fashion & accessories are
OT.  So were ships, and international trade riots, but those petered out
quickly.  Those of us on the digest cant autodelete boring topics or rude
people, Sigh.
--cin
Cynthia the neither Virtuous nor True
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 18:38:21 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Bad dye problem - Please help
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 1:12:03 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
MzScahlett@aol.com writes:

<< I just heard from a friend that a burgundy/fuschia gay nineties costume 
 (stored in the dark) has begun to spot fade/bleach.  I believe the fabric 
was 
 mostly polyester.  
  >>
A permanent marker pen in the appropriate color is about the only thing I can 
think of that will "stick" to polyester in a color that dark.  I do it all 
the time with costumes but it might show more on something meant to be seen 
up close.  Try on a seam allowance first.  Cheryl Odom
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
In-Reply-To: <s8590765.089@Mackie.com>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 16 Dec 1999, Colleen McDonald Hinrichs wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
> 
> Here's a question for the list:
> 
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?
> 
Pick any upper class costume from any era with a high degree of 
authenticity. Two things spring to mind....18th century with an accurate
100% silk brocade, and an Edwardian afternoon dress with lots of real silk
and decent lace.
With luck maybe one day I will get a chance at that sort of thing, but
the costume I am sort of interested in but will probably never make
would be a Minoan one. I think it would be an interesting technical
challenge, but my husband would never let me leave the house - and
probably keep all photos to himself too *grin*
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 18:46:21 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 16:26:13 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
To: h-costume@indra.com, SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Message-id: <3859129D.E54D96A9@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings Meghan,

> I feel that it is necessary to do some damage control here. <snip>
> as it appears I have aired dirty laundry that doesn't exist.

<more snipped>

> Its taken a long time for me to crawl out of lurker-dom, and this
> is enough to make me think six times before posting something.

Please don't feel hesitant to post. I'm afraid that what happened was a common
(and regrettable) problem with electronic communication. Without the
non-verbal signals that people need to rely on for interpreting emotions,
people made the mistake of substituting their own emotional reaction to the
situation. It was undoubtedly a subconscious reaction.

While I can't guarantee that similar things won't happen again, I do promise
that some will have learned from this thread. :-) And I'm sure we can still
help you. Towards that end...

If you'd like to embellish the tunic with trim, this is a great site:

Calontir Trim  --  http://www.calontirtrim.com/

I've managed to get trim as wide as 2-1/4" around a keyhole neckline. While
it's not simple, it is possible. If you'd like some helpful hints, let me know.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 18:47:28 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s8590765.089@Mackie.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 20:19:09 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>



>
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
> Here's a question for the list:
>
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a
better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire
on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?

I think it would have to be that red velvet dress that Rhett makes Scarlet
wear to Ashley's birthday party.  I don't care if it's acurate.  I know I'm
too fat to look good in that style and I look awful in red, but I love that
dress.

Another dream costume would be a mid-18th century court gown.

Andrea

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 20:25:16 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF4803.AA64D5A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm =
not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better =
figure-control than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it =
would be a Victorian corset, but don't these affect the shape of the =
bust also?  Do these give support to the bust?
Andrea

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF4803.AA64D5A0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under =
modern=20
clothes?&nbsp; I'm not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting =
better=20
figure-control than a girdle under an evening gown.&nbsp; I'm assuming =
it would=20
be a Victorian corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust =
also?&nbsp;=20
Do these give support to the bust?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF4803.AA64D5A0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 19:08:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 00:08:04 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>> > If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a 
>> > number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on 
>> > which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could 
>> > probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)
>> 
>> Yes, yes!! I would be eternally grateful for any info on that article! In
>> fact, we might be able to work out some sort of exchange...replica
>pinking
>> tools, or carnelian beads,  or silk cloth of gold...
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Drea (no, I'm not desparate) Leed

Hi Drea!  Add me to the oh so desparate list!

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 19:28:45 1999
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:47:55 +1100
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-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

Pamela,

There's quite a bit on tablet weaving on the net, which explain better than
a short email

Try this URL - http://www.google.com/search?q=tablet+weaving
which is a search engine result which gives a lot of tablet weaving urls
worth a look.

The most thorough book on tablet weaving is "The Techniques of Tablet
Weaving" by Peter Collingwood. It's not cheap, but can probably be found
through ILL.

Glenda.

-----Original Message-----
From: Panmela@aol.com <Panmela@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, 17 December 1999 11:04
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic


>
>-Poster: Panmela@aol.com
>
>Could someone explain what tablet woven edging is? Thanks.
>
>Pamela D.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 20:51:05 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 8:15:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:

<< Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm 
not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better figure-control 
than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it would be a Victorian 
corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust also?  Do these give 
support to the bust? >>

I've thrown a sweatshirt and other things over my  (1870ish) corset when I've 
been running around the house fitting a dress. I've found it is simply 
wonderful for a bad back, and yes, it does support the bust. Better then 
modern undergarments! I love the silhouettes it gives, but I've never worn it 
out. It is noticeable. I wish it wasn't...or else, I wish I could be that 
shape without it, LOL.

-Alison Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
Acstacy@cc.owu.edu
Ohio Wesleyan University
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:12:06 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:36:45 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have seen rotten remarks on this list but this is getting way out of hand.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: DDunker@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
>Date: Thu, Dec 16, 1999, 3:45 PM
>

>
>-Poster: DDunker@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/16/99 3:23:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
>AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
>
><< 
> Who's being judgmental now? I ask a question about a very obscure and
obtuse 
> statement that seems to make little sense to me and then calmly make a 
> reasonable suggestion that you skip the thread rather than censor it.
> 
> Perhaps you owe us all an apology for asking us to stop a very interesting

> topic simply because YOU don't like it.
> 
> And I never called you names.
> 
> Lighten up!
>  ____________________ >>
>I see, I shall consider the source and refer future comments to more mature

>readers.
>
>Darla
>
>PS Your attitude is nasty
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:14:52 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 21:34:09 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 8:06:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dietmar@pacbell.net writes:

<< While I can't guarantee that similar things won't happen again, I do 
promise
 that some will have learned from this thread. :-) And I'm sure we can still
 help you. Towards that end... >>

Along this line, I'm taking a bread from my usual lurker mode to follow up 
this statement. I've been following this thread from the very beginning since 
I am working on garb from the same period and I have found this whole 
discussion to be very helpful.  I've gotten lots of ideas that I wouldn't 
have thought of on my own, as well as sources for trim that I didn't know 
existed.  

>From a fellow lurker who doesn't post much, remember how much you have still 
learned from the posts of others......

Perry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:17:53 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 9:35:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Morses3@aol.com writes:

<< 'm taking a bread from my usual lurker mode >>

I meant break, really I did (next time I'll use the spell checker) :-)

Perry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:20:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 21:26:02 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 03:43  16/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>
>I've always wanted to do a wide wide 18th century pannier gown, but I have
>no place (and the wrong figure) to wear it, so oh la, well there it is.
>Think of all the money I've saved.
>
>MaggiRos

Greetings,

I agree with you on this one.  I would love to do something with massive
panniers.  I seem to remember a picture of a particular sack-back gown.
sigh.  If only I had some reason to do it.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:30:16 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

Yes, it is out of hand.  I told the previous poster he owed me an apology and 
he refused.  He was rude to me, and accused me of "pretending".   Personal 
slams are against my nature, I still feel he owes me an apology.

I should NOT have to apologize for defending my beliefs.

Darla
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 21:19:46 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:37:04 -0800
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
> 
> Actually, the shawls originated in Kashmir, and the pine cone mutated to the
> paisley design.  They were fashionable starting in the early 19th century.
> Ladies also used them for dresses.  Machine-made imitations of the expensive
> hand-made shawls were made in Paisley, Scotland, among other places; hence,
> the name.  There are several good histories on the origins of the shawl.  I
> have momentarily lost my references, but can post them later.
> Ann Wass

The shawls and the "botteh" (paisley motif) really originated in
Persia. (shawl is a Persian word) They were men's garments, worn
around the waist or over the shoulder. Much of the Moghul culture
was actually Persian in origin as was the language of the court.
There's at least one theory that the paisley motif was originally
a stylized date tree flower and dates back to the Sumerians! 
(can't find that reference right now.)
  But it was the Indian shawls that were brought back to Europe
by British and French soldiers and traders in the late 18th c.
There was much cross fertization for the next century or so!
  One way to tell the difference, is that the Indian shawls
were often pieced around the edges. As the art decayed, they
started embroidering the designs rather than weaving them.

   A couple of references are John Irwin's The Kashmir Shawl,
Ed Rossbach's The art of Paisley, and Monique Levi-Strauss's
The Cashmere Shawl (trans. from the French and mostly about
the French "paisleys")
  Frank Ames book is supposed to be the best, but it's expensive.

Meg Andrew's article is at:
http://www.victoriana.com/library/paisley/shawl.html

They're lovely things,no matter where they come from.

Susan Fatemi

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 21:20:00 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:38:33 EST
Subject: H-COST: My apologies to my fellow list members
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

I sincerely apologize for taking the time and attention of my fellow list 
members.

I was insulted by a list member, but should have communicated privately with 
that person.   Cliche as it may be.. I must say, two wrongs still don't make 
a right.


Darla
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:23:01 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
In-Reply-To: <A8BBD321A5@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:57 AM 12/16/1999 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
>
>> And its correlation: The bobbin thread always runs out six inches
>> before the end of a 10 yard hem! 
>
>I Hate it when that happens, so hve invested in several packs of 
>bobbins.  Teddy
                      For me, it's that the bobbin runs out 6" before the
spool will, and there's still a few inches worth of stitching left to go...
and that WAS on the spare bobbin...I swear my machine eats bobbin thread... cjc
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:15:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Re: Re: Period waleless corduroy!!
Cc: Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

         I asked my friend, the weaver, for her explanation, in 'lay'
terms... Carol / Gra/inne, herewith ...

>From: "Sarida Bradley" To: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>Subject: Re: Re: Period waleless corduroy!! Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 
>
>Hi Carol,
>
>>     Sarida--      May I invite you, as someone I believe will be able to
>> speak knowledgeably and in lay terms, to respond, please?   Thanks!   And
>> Brightest blessings to you and yours for the upcoming Solstice...may your
>> skies be clear that you may see the Moon at apogee [14% nearer and looking
>> larger 'than life' for the only time in 133 yrs.]...Gra/inne / Carol
>> >On Wed, 15 December 1999, Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:
>
>Thanks, we are looking forward to clear skies and a bright moon.
>
>At first pass on the question I've come up with the following:
>
>Corduroy, one of my references translates this as "Cord or thread of the
>King".  Corded fabrics were woven from earliest times on all types of
>looms.  Corded fabrics can be weft or warp cords and are usually achieved
>with varying thickness of yarn, but weave structure can produce corded
>effects as well.  I tend to think that early Corduroy as a piled fabric was
>a time intensive and therefore expensive fabric because of the cutting and
>brushing of the pile after it was woven.  So it was refered to as the
>"corded cloth of kings".
>
>> >> Plate 14 shows appliqued Opus Anglicanum onto velvet.  But the velvet
>> >> is *exactly* like waleles corduroy.  And it is on an Alb, clerical of
>> >> course, but still a garment.
>
>> >In my mind, the definition of corduroy is piled fabric a la velvet or
>> velveteen that had been shaved into cords or wales. If you take away the
>> wales, how can you still have corduroy.
>
>Corduroy is not just shaved velvet, it is also supported by a corded weave
>structure.  The wales of corduroy usually always parallel the warps.  The
>wefts are tightly woven into a number of warps the then floated over a
>number
>of warps.  The pile is cut across the floating wefts and then brushed up.
>Between the weft throws that float over the warps are wefts that are inter-
>woven between every warp, thus locking the wefts that will be cut into the
>fabric structure.  The sequence is something like; floating weft, locking
>weft,
>floating weft, locking weft, floating weft, locking
>weft.....................
>
>Warps are finer are more closely set than the floating wefts.  The locking
>wefts are also finer and disappear between the floating wefts when the
>pile is cut and brushed.  The floating wefts would need to be of a softer
>fiber that could be brushed and fluffed out.
>
>I cannot understand how there could be a wale-less or uncorded Corduroy.
>The very word describes the nature of the fabric and piled fabrics without
>cords are something else, entirely.
>
>> >Also, while we are on the topic, what is the difference between velvet
>and
>> velveteen? This came up a while ago, but the question was never answered.
>> To my eye they seem the same, except velveteen has a shorter pile. Is this
>> the only difference?
>
>Velvet and Velveteen are similar but there are a number of differences.
>Velvet
>is a warp-pile fabric made from a double woven structure.  This means there
>are literally two sets of warps and wefts that interlock at points all
>through the
>cloth.  One warp is for the pile, the other is for the ground cloth that
>holds it all
>together.  The pile warps are wound on a separate warp beam (usually 5 to 10
>times longer than the ground warp).  The cloth is woven with ground wefts
>beaten
>in for a few shots then a steel bar is inserted on edge forcing the pile
>warps up out
>of the ground cloth, ground wefts are beaten in to secure the lifted warps
>and then
>the pile warps are cut while the steel bar is in place.  Velvet was
>traditionally silk
>pile on a cotton ground cloth.
>
>Velveteen is a weft-pile fabric, single weave structure, though cut and
>brushed
>in the same way as velvet.  It gives a cloth that is very like velvet, but
>not as labor
>and material intensive.  Traditionally velveteen is made of cotton pile and
>cotton
>ground cloth.  Velveteen does usually have a shorter pile than velvet
>because of
>the weft face pile and single weave structure.
>
>I hope this is helpful,
>
>
>Sarida Steed-Bradley
> 
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