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Subject: [h-cost] Re: LOTR
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 00:32:56 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/21/01 9:30:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< 
 I just got home from the very best movie I've ever seen. Really.  Lord of
 the Rings is everything that I personally could want it to be.  It was so
 worth waiting for, and we did wait for a very long time.  The
 cinematography, the casting, the music, everything about this movie was
 complete magic in my eyes.  The costumes were gorgeous, and absolutely right
 on for each of the characters.  Yes, this is just my opinion, and someone
 else may see something different, but I can honestly say that this is one
 movie that delivered far above what I expected.
 Now, if I can just find out how to move to the Shire...... and get me one of
 those really neat hobbit holes with a round door!
 
 Linda
 Virginia Beach, Va. USA >>

Yes, I found myself feeling "enchanted," like a spell had actually be woven 
upon me.  I've seen it twice now, and am waiting for fiance' to get another 
day off to see it a third.  Having read the books as a little girl, I'd never 
thought a human could play Frodo the way I'd fleshed him out in my mind --not 
just his looks, but his emotions.  I was wrong.   Thank you, Peter Jackson, 
for disproving many "impossibilities."    

Anyway, how does this all relate to costume?  In the Sci-Fi Channel special 
on LOTR, they show Liv Tyler as Arwen in a dress that had black and a deep 
red or maybe cranberry color.  That must be in a later movie, though, since I 
never saw it in Fellowship.  Lucky I taped the special!   In any case, I've 
decided to make the dress for my Maid of Honour, since my wedding will be 
renny/fantasy and those are perfect colors for her.   Also,  she admires that 
actress, and fell in love with the elves (she's new to the genre) to the 
point she's decided to learn to speak elven.  I'm making it a surprise.  :)

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 01:15:41 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/29/01 2:05:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< No character developement, no motivation except a general feeling that Evil
 is a bad thing.  An endless travelogue of interesting settings, populated by
 Things that Want to Kill You. Swordfights.  More pretty scenery, more Things
 That want To Kill You.  Another swordfight.  More scenery....and surprise,
 here come some Things That want To Kill You.  And on and on, until the three
 hours are up, fade out, and wait till next year when we'll do the whole
 media circus again.  >>

But Margo,  many of the characters of the Fellowship did not get developed 
until the 2nd book.  It takes time travelling together for each character's 
qualities to come out, much like it does with coworkers who later become true 
friends.  Also,  most of the Fellowship characters will change over time.  I 
do not think it a spoiler to say here that Gimli and Legolas eventually throw 
off their racial prejudices to become best friends.  You also come to know 
The Enemy better over the course of the trilogy.  Tolkien doesn't give you 
all the info at the beginning because he doesn't want you to feel comfortable 
with them; humans are much more afraid of the unknown. 

Of course, you need lot like it because I say so, but I just wanted you to 
know the next movie will NOT simply be a repeat of the first.  I know this 
from the books, which I got through quite happily.   I admit they start very 
slow.  The pace picks up at Weathertop, though, and pretty much becomes a 
page-turner from there (IMHO).

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: elvish
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 01:19:11 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/29/01 2:05:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< What is that "Elvish" from the movie, please? Sindarin or Quenya?
 (Only for hard core Tolkien fans.)
  >>

Don't know yet, but "The Languages of Tolkien" is being shipped to me as we 
speak...

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 17:01:21 +1030
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P><BR><BR></P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P><BR><BR>Happy New Year!!!</P></DIV>
<P>I've been lurking on the list for some time now and I've noticed that there are a lot of costumers on it. So just for curiosity where are you all from and why are you interested in historical costume?</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>My name is Rebecca Anderson and I live in Adelaide, South Australia. I started costuming less than 2 yrs ago. I've always been interested in history, then about 2 yrs ago I joined a historical re-enactment group and have been a costuming nut eversince.</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>Rebecca Anderson</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>aka Lady Adele Anders</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>P.S. How does one make a Tudor style gable hood? I've looked at a lot of pics and I'm totaly stumped.</P>
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_etl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a>.<br></html>
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: elvish
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 01:36:00 -0500
Status: RO

On National Geographic they said the language was made up from a small
community that spoke a variation of Finnish.  If I remember correctly the
community is in rural Russia.   The language is not 100% the same, but is
close to this community.  The language in the community is only spoken by
the elders.  This community while not exist for very long.  All the citizens
are very old.  The younger generations moved off into the modern world.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 01:41:02 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/29/01 7:26:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< I don't think Boromir's tunic is beaded. I think it's embroidered, but
 the design would lend itself well to beads. >>

I'm hoping to see it a 3rd time, but I did think those were beads on the 
purple short sleeves.  It would make sense, since he's the son of the acting 
leader of Gondor and quite wealthy.  Did you also notice his face was clean 
compared to Aragorn's in his final scene-- subtle, but a lovely way to 
contrast the nobleman to the ranger.

<<The Ringwraiths' cloaks are definitely made of multiple layers of
dark-dyed gauze. There's supposed to be 50 m of cloth in each one, I
understand.>>

Yes!  50 meters!  And my fiance' wants me to make him that costume!  The 
price may just kill me.  Anyone know where I can get black guaze real cheap?  
Also, it seemed to me that I'd have to make it shorter if he won't be 
mounted, since there'd be cloth trailing all over the floor.  I also make 
carved boiled leather armor, so he wants me to replicate the plate armor of 
the King of the Nazgul.  (I do chainmail too sometimes.)  I'm wondering what 
other small requests he'll be making of me...LOL

As for the hobbit bodices, I figured they were just going for a wenchy look, 
to suggest hedonism.  I do like Maggie's theory though about expanding waist 
sizes.  I mean, that's why the style is so popular at renfairs, no?

<<I'm still trying to mentally figue out the cut of Galadriel's sleeves.
I'm thinking that it's a 3/4 circle and a bell sleeve cut as one, with
the seam somewhere odd. Looked for seams, couldn't see any.>>

Now I have to go again just to look at Galdriel's sleeves!

--Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR - end credits -- again
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 19:48:29 +1300
Status: RO

> Another uninformed guess -- Ngaio Marsh's novels sometimes include phrases
of
> Maori, and the phrases I can recall certainly resemble the lines from the
end > credits.  I suspect it is Maori, but have no idea what it would mean.

Does anyone remember the phrases? I might be anble to hazard a guess,
especially if it's thanks to say local tribes for use of land etc.. it's not
on the official sites or anyone fast enough to get it on a personal site?

michaela

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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 02:19:25 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/31/01 2:34:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< Boromir:
 - Maroon under tunic has metal coiled threadwork embroidery on the collar
 and on the sleeves.  >>

Ah, like in India!  Yes, I would have misktaken that for beads.

And thanks for the screensaver suggestion!  Because I don't use screensavers, 
I never would have thought to go there for costume pics.

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 02:23:29 EST
Status: RO


I guess I do need to watch it again, since I did not think Galadriel was 
wearing lace at all.  To me, the outer layer looked like a burnout that you'd 
find in the special occasion dept of a fabric store.  Burnouts are usually 
not actually burned nowadays, but the look of sheerness between solid shapes 
is still called that.  Curious now...

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 02:37:00 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/31/01 2:34:35 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< I agree with Margo, however. I didn't care much for it as it was 
 *way* too violent for me. I spent a good portion of the movie 
 (especially in the last part) with my head buried in my husband's 
 shoulder going "are they done fighting yet." However, since it is a 
 cultural icon, I will go see the other two. >>

Oh dear!  There's going to be a war, ya know...  LOTR is a metaphorical 
account of Tolkien's own emotional experiences of WWII, written into a 
fantasy story.  I'm afraid it will get MUCH more violent.  Felt I should warn 
you.

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 02:56:52 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/31/01 2:40:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< I didn't stay for the end credits or else could tell you what it said in 
 maori (if it was).
 I'm going to see the movie again before I make any other comments. >>

Yes, please Sharon!  We all can't wait to hear what will most likely be just 
a "Thanks to John Doe for everything."  Sadly, I really do want to know...

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 03:08:34 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/31/01 2:40:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< TV serials are too choppy for me (commercial breaks -- ack, ptui!), I 
never see
 every episode, and they cost a fortune on video tape.  I'd have loved a 
longer
 movie, with an intermission --  more time in Lothlorien to show the inner
 temptations and the gifts would have helped, and the timeline from BagEnd to
 Bree was off, somehow.  A friend used to work in a movie theatre -- she said
 that movies have to be 3 hours and 45 minutes to get an intermission. >>

The good news is, we'll likely get to see more scenes when it comes out on 
DVD.  They shot more footage than the 3-hr limit allowed.

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 00:36:53 -0800
Status: RO

Quoting and answering questions from a number of folks

Hobbit Females
- Did find the pointy front in the front of just one bodice.  It was very
shallow… and by the way the bodice bows out at the waist, I’ll guess
pollyboning was used.  Backs and sides look solidly interfaced and probably
has enough boning to hold the seams solid.  The bust shapes are round and
covered by the square necked bodices.  All are square necked. Guess on
pattern.  Probably darts, partially because the  heaving interfacing and
bias  binding to finish the edges are all theatrical tricks I used to use.
(Amazing the details you can see w/ a jeweler's loop! <G>)
-	Not all the women have bodices, just the close up ones.  The bib apron is
used on a few.  (Though the bib apron is also used with people w/ bodices.)
-	Fabrics: nothing is matching from the photos I checked (though I think I’
ll catch the movie again).  Some times they use two shades of blue, one
underskirt one bodice.  I think that since the apron is so fully gathered,
on some it almost looks like the top skirt.

Hobbit Males:
<<detail that I noticed about the male hobbit costumes is that they are
deliberately cut with the emphasis on width.>> Yes, and pockets and waist
are also placed high.  This also changes how hobbits stand.  It’s off kilter
just enough our ‘eye’ notices.

Galadriel's white dress:
<< 2 photo's of Galadriel's white dress the *same* dress?>>  Both dress are
beaded.  Looked at all the photos, also beaded.  Necklines are different,
given how expensive that beading is, it might be the same dress modified.
Pattern looks like it “might” be the same.  Can’t tell.

To muddy the water, here’s another eleven dress.  The neckline matches, but
I’m not sure the sleeves are the right pattern.  Lighting makes it
impossible to identify the colors.  Anyone got any clues which dress this is
if the other beaded dresses match??????


Questionable: http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/2301
Old links: http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/2143
http://www.ringfan.com/~mbass/www.tolkienmovies.com/images/characters/imladr
is-galadriel.jpg.


-- easy way to look at detailing on the dress if you don’t have Photoshop.
Copy and paste the picture into a Word document and then increase the
magnification to 200% or 300%.

Just FYI, I'm going though the Casa Loma pictures and pulling out all the
costume ones I can.  I'll have the links as labeled as I can within a week.
(This is fun, if hard on the eyes.)


This just proves.. never give me a week off...  I find new obsessions.

Happy New Year!

-Cat-

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colors 2002 Predictions
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Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 18:28:44 +0000
Status: RO

Are these people related to wine critics?  "A multicultural red" ..." a
hueful neutral"  Do you think we'll be able to tell them from western
imperialist red and light grey?

Jean


>Overall, Color Directions for 2002 are fresh and clean,
>yet the colors are fascinatingly adaptable. Hues are ambiguous
>with mixed undertones that allow them to cross color families
>without being wholly defined by one.
>
>The 2002 Consumer Color Directions Forecast includes:
>
>Rosa Roja: A multicultural, non-synthetic red with a strong
>Latin influence. A romantic red that comes alive for both men
>and women.
>
>Langostino:
>Bridges orange, pink and red, yet it's softened and veiled.
>
>
>Tiger Lily: A complex and multidimensional orange combining
>the vibrant florals of nature with the satisfying glow of a quiet fire.
>
>
>Tangy: A natural, yet clear orange.
>
>
>Eureka: A cool yellow drawing its influence from Morocco and
>Vietnam. It's supernatural and strong, yet provides an energized
>contentment.
>
>
>Pineapple: A pale, luminescent yellow with organic overtones.
>It bridges spring into winter with a softness that is almost a
>neutral, but is able to maintain its color placement through
>a sense of light.
>
>
>Lemoncello: The hybridization of nature and technology into
>a sophisticated yellow, with a calming green influence.
>
>
>Gingko: The botanical green of dried grasslands, bridging the
>fresh excitement from mustard greens with the relaxing feel
>of a forest's treasured mosses.
>
>
>Mesa Verde: The return of true green, heralding a move away
>from recent acidity lime-greens. Strongly influenced by an
>undertone of blue, it is natural and refreshing.
>
>
>Oxygen:  A blue sky as seen through glass block.
>A breath of fresh air representing a silver influence on aquatic blues.
>
>
>Blue Bayou:  The shift of classic navy toward an updated
>techno-version of blue with a metallic, watery sheen.
>
>Fathom:  A key bridge of green into blue, it addresses the
>continuation and evolution of teals inspired by blue.
>Its sophisticated coloration completes the mind's need for peace
>and serenity.
>
>
>Essence of Lilac:  An extreme, pale botanical blue with a hint of
>lilac. It supports the desire for translucency across all market
>segments.
>
>
>Moon Shadow:  Provides a respite from technology and
>reflects our fascination with atmospheric grays.
>A hueful neutral that allows other colors to retain their
>individual appeal.
>
>
>Chocolate Raisin:  With its blending of brown into black,
>this saturated hue has a strong horticultural influence.
>It is complex, captivating and elegant in its richness.
>
>
>Sycamore: The evolution of a classic neutral brown.
>Edgy but luxurious.
>
>

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [lace] Gold lace in Costume Institute
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 14:06:36 +0100
Status: RO

I got this news from the lace list. Some of you might be interrested.
I wish i could go and have a look!

Bjarne

Dmt11home@aol.com wrote:

> There is an exhibit at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan 
> Museum of Art right now called Extreme Fashion.  While the exhibit is 
> interesting in its own right, the most interesting part to me was an 
> Elizabethan era collar.  It is a very transparent muslin, flat and 
> square shaped, with gold bobbin lace around it.  There is very little 
> gold bobbin lace left because people recovered the gold by 
> "drizzling", as I understand it.  The collar is so nicely lit that the 
> gold really stands out and you have a good idea of how splendid it 
> must have looked.  Also interesting, is that you can peer behind it to 
> see the "supportasse" behind it.  I was surprised at how pretty this 
> support was.  Gunnel, the lace expert, pointed out that the support 
> would have been fully visable from the back since it made the collar 
> stand straight up.
> Devon 


-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 05:33:40 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Rebecca Anderson <lady_adele@hotmail.com> wrote:
So just for curiosity where are you all from and why
are you interested in historical costume

Well, for me it was enlightened self-interest.  I was,
until recently, a 300-lb. singer/harper.*  Since my
field is Very Early Music (pre-1400) I like to perform
in costume and couldn't find anything to fit me!

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

*now I'm a 210-lb. singer/harper!

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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 08:33:45 -0500
Status: RO

My advice would be to get the Janice Ryan patterns for this period:

http://www.jpryan.com/

Her patterns are well-drafted and have clear instructions.  When I'm making
clothes for my hubby or for friends, I ask them to buy these patterns as a
base from which I can work.

The fall-front breeches, men's waistcoat (it says 1750s, but would work
fine for 1740s as well), and 1750s coat (ditto) would be a good set of
patterns to buy.  If I had to change one thing to back-date the patterns,
I'd cut the coat fronts in a straight line, rather than cut slightly back
from the waistline to the hem; that's an easy enough alteration to make.

A close second for 18th c. clothing would be Mill Farm patterns from
Burnley and Trowbridge, but I can't find that catalog and their web site
seems to be perpetually under construction, so I can't suggest any specific
patterns.

Cheers,
Mara

At 10:45 PM 12/30/2001 -0600, you wrote:
>A couple of my friends and I are doing costumes for Costume Con in 2003. 
> The gentleman involved is not confident enough to draft his own 
>pattern, so he wants to know what commercially available pattern is the 
>most accurate, easiest to use, etc.  The ones he is familiar with are:  
>1.  Richard the Thread:  http://www.richardthethread.com/patterns.html 
>(the Restoration one)
>2. the ones on this site:  http://www.harriets.com/Colonialmen.htm
>
>Could you let me know if either of these are any good, or if there are 
>others he should consider instead?  He is looking for a 1740's look (to 
>match his wife's outfit).  Thanks.
>
>Karen


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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 08:20:38 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, and welcome....
I live in Missoula, MT (USA), and have "made" things since I was too
little to speak in complete sentences, so the sewing and embroidery are
just part of me.
I got into costuming because it was my job <g>--seriously, I worked for
a couple of years in a costume shop for my work-study job in college.  I
got a taste of historical-ish stuff then, but didn't get into it,
really, until, like you, I joined a group (the SCA in my case), and then
I went nuts. This was all well over a decade ago, and now my
fabric/books/trim stash threatens to take over the house. ;-P
The single thing I like most about this list, besides the amazing
variety of people, is all of our divergent interests, which have really
enlarged my perspective on clothing and textiles in the time I've been
on the list.  (since I don't say it nearly often enough, thanks
everybody <g>)
While I haven't actually ever made a gable headdress, you can find some
links to ideas/instructions on Drea's website:

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/general.html

Have fun.....
Sue

Rebecca Anderson wrote:
> 
> Happy New Year!!!
> 
> I've been lurking on the list for some time now and I've noticed that
> there are a lot of costumers on it. So just for curiosity where are
> you all from and why are you interested in historical costume?
> 
> My name is Rebecca Anderson and I live in Adelaide, South Australia. I
> started costuming less than 2 yrs ago. I've always been interested in
> history, then about 2 yrs ago I joined a historical re-enactment group
> and have been a costuming nut eversince.
> 
> 
> 
> Rebecca Anderson
> 
> aka Lady Adele Anders
> 
> P.S. How does one make a Tudor style gable hood? I've looked at a lot
> of pics and I'm totaly stumped.
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I live in Riverdale, Maryland, a suburb of Washington DC.  Always been 
interested clothes--made paper dolls and doll clothes as a child.  Majored in 
home economics in college.  Made many of my own clothes through the years.  
Got into various things such as lingerie and active wear.  (I still have 
boxes of fabric from these phases!)  Went to the University of Maryland for a 
Ph.D. in historic costume and textiles.  (Sorry for those of you who are 
interested in advanced study--the program is now defunct.)  Worked in some 
area theater costume shops but at the peon level, so I didn't get to do any 
design, which is what I really enjoy.  Then fell into a job at an early 19th 
century historic house museum, where I finally, after 5 years, have a 
full-time, professional position.  My main responsibility is programming, and 
living history is always popular, so I have gotten into early 19th century 
costume.  I'm a member of the Costume Society of America and have presented 
papers and posters based on my research.
My husband is a square dance caller, and I still make square dance clothes, 
too, although I have given up on daywear.  When I figure in my time, I can't 
make a pair of lined wool slacks for $30, which I paid for a pair yesterday.  

For the square dance attire, I've developed what I call a template--use the 
same pattern all the time with minor variations and easy fit and 
construction--no zippers and I serge all the seams I can.
One thing that early 19th century and square dance clothes have in common is 
that I get to play with trims, which I dearly love to do.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I live in Riverdale, Maryland, a suburb of Washington DC.&nbsp; Always been interested clothes--made paper dolls and doll clothes as a child.&nbsp; Majored in home economics in college.&nbsp; Made many of my own clothes through the years.&nbsp; Got into various things such as lingerie and active wear.&nbsp; (I still have boxes of fabric from these phases!)&nbsp; Went to the University of Maryland for a Ph.D. in historic costume and textiles.&nbsp; (Sorry for those of you who are interested in advanced study--the program is now defunct.)&nbsp; Worked in some area theater costume shops but at the peon level, so I didn't get to do any design, which is what I really enjoy.&nbsp; Then fell into a job at an early 19th century historic house museum, where I finally, after 5 years, have a full-time, professional position.&nbsp; My main responsibility is programming, and living history is always p!
opular, so I have gotten into early 19th century costume.&nbsp; I'm a member of the Costume Society of America and have presented papers and posters based on my research.<BR>
My husband is a square dance caller, and I still make square dance clothes, too, although I have given up on daywear.&nbsp; When I figure in my time, I can't make a pair of lined wool slacks for $30, which I paid for a pair yesterday.&nbsp; <BR>
For the square dance attire, I've developed what I call a template--use the same pattern all the time with minor variations and easy fit and construction--no zippers and I serge all the seams I can.<BR>
One thing that early 19th century and square dance clothes have in common is that I get to play with trims, which I dearly love to do.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 10:25:54 -0800
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At 02:47 PM 12/31/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>Ah thanks, from the discussion I thought maybe they were con artists.  my
>mistake.


Well, Kincade is something of a con artist, in that he's managed to convince
so many people that his work is Art....Oh!  You meant SCIENCE FICTION
CONVENTION artist!

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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  Happy New Year!!!
  I've been lurking on the list for some time now and I've noticed that =
there are a lot of costumers on it. So just for curiosity where are you =
all from and why are you interested in historical costume?

  Hi!  I'm Moira, and I live in sunny Florida, USA.  I've been =
interested in cultures, languages and costumes for as long as I can =
remember, and have been trying to do it myself since early 1994 when I =
joined a group called the SCA and realized I couldn't afford to buy =
garb/costumes for the (then) 4 of us, but knew how to sew.  Now it's 6 =
of us, and my almost 4 year old is a garbhorse.  I'm presently trying to =
come up with something beautiful but practical for being in a wheelchair =
and a herald.;-}

  Yours In Service to the Dream,

  Moira bean Eoin (Heather modernly)


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  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><BR>Happy New Year!!!</DIV>
  <DIV>
  <P>I've been lurking on the list for some time now and I've noticed that there
  are a lot of costumers on it. So just for curiosity where are you all from and
  why are you interested in historical costume?</P>
  <P><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4>Hi!&nbsp; I'm Moira, and I live in sunny
  Florida, USA.&nbsp; I've been interested in cultures, languages and costumes
  for as long as I can remember, and have been trying to do it myself since
  early 1994 when I joined a group called the SCA and realized I couldn't afford
  to buy garb/costumes for the (then) 4 of us, but knew how to sew.&nbsp; Now
  it's 6 of us, and my almost 4 year old is a garbhorse.&nbsp; I'm presently
  trying to come up with something beautiful but practical for being in =
a
  wheelchair and a herald.;-}</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4>Yours In Service to the =
Dream,</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4>Moira bean Eoin (Heather
  modernly)</FONT></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 14:48:16 -0800
Status: RO

I do like Maggie's theory though about expanding waist 
>sizes.  I mean, that's why the style is so popular at renfairs, no?

No.  There they just do it to look wenchy, and because it's easy to wear. 

Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor hood
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 11:27:10 -0800
Status: RO

P.S. How does one make a Tudor style gable hood? I've looked at a lot of pics
and I'm totaly stumped.

I started with a square-backed linen under-cap which tied under my chin, like
in a Holbein drawing I saw.  Everything else got fastened to this. I added a
"turban" made of a two-inch strip of striped taffeta crossed over in the front
(visible in the paintings).  Then I added the gable part, which was a decorated
two-inch strip lined with something stiff.  I did later-period, so I pinned the
lappets up after I made them.  In the back of the gable I put a square-backed
velveteen part like the under-cap has but with two tails so I could do that
'whelk shell' wrap over the top with one of them.  As I said, all the hood part
got pinned to the under-cap, which was securely tied to my head.  But the fit
was so good (finally) that I almost didn't need to pin anything.

Look into Holbein drawings.  There's one of the front and the back of the same
lady, and that was very instructive.  But my standard advice is to play with
muslin/calico or paper till you get it looking right, then make a real one. 
(I've been doing costuming so long that I can sort of detach myself from the
glitz and look at the topology of what I am seeing, which helps.)  Use a
Styrofoam wig stand, so you can pin the parts to it.

>
> I've been lurking on the list for some time now and I've noticed that there
> are a lot of costumers on it. So just for curiosity where are you all from
> and why are you interested in historical costume?


I live in California near San Francisco, a part of the USA which has lots of
costumery going on for various reasons.  As for why I am interested, I liked to
create costumes from a dress-up box when I was a kid, so my mother gave me my
first costume book when I was 8.

>
> My name is Rebecca Anderson and I live in Adelaide, South Australia. I
> started costuming less than 2 yrs ago. I've always been interested in
> history, then about 2 yrs ago I joined a historical re-enactment group and
> have been a costuming nut eversince.


I spent 3 days in Adelaide, on an SCA trip I did in the early 80's.  I remember
being overflown by a flock of wild budgies, and I remember brush fences and
Stobie poles.  Nowadays my morris side does a dance called 'South Australia',
and I'm the only one of us who's actually been there.

Kayta
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] LOTR - end credits -- again
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 14:59:59 -0800
Status: RO

I've been looking on vcarious fan sites and can't find any mention.  But they do
say that Maori shamen (or whatever the correct term is) blessed the various
shooting sites, so it may be safe to say it's either a thank you or a blessing
of some kind.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of michaela
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 10:48 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR - end credits -- again
>
>
> > Another uninformed guess -- Ngaio Marsh's novels sometimes include phrases
> of
> > Maori, and the phrases I can recall certainly resemble the lines from the
> end > credits.  I suspect it is Maori, but have no idea what it would mean.
>
> Does anyone remember the phrases? I might be anble to hazard a guess,
> especially if it's thanks to say local tribes for use of land etc.. it's not
> on the official sites or anyone fast enough to get it on a personal site?
>
> michaela
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  1 18:16:56 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Alix's dress questions
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 18:43:10 EST
Status: RO

<<It is tight-fitting so could it be laced on the sides?>>

Alix,

This style would have laced in the back only.  Think about it, if you do the 
belting as pictured then side lacing would clutter the image.

As for underarm gores, if this dress is like the 10-gore I am thinking it is, 
then the side gores go all the way up to the underarm so that you don't need 
separate triangular gores in the armpits.  A historical 10-gore would indeed 
have a waist-high gore in front too, but I think you could skip that if you 
are doing renny-fantasy and prefer the smooth front look.  The train I'd 
recommend as a semi-circle (1/3 to 1/2 a circle with a diameter equal to the 
width of the dress at the hemline)  which will make it come down much longer 
than the front hem which is only slightly curved.  

The sleeves would prbably be easiest for a beginner done as tubes for the 
upper arm stitched to separate lower sleeves.  (Trim will cover the seam.) I 
really can't think how to describe the shape of the lower sleeves...  But for 
the upper sleeves: Measure the circumference of the top of your arm at the 
underarm arm and again above the elbow.  Measure the length of your arm 
between those circumferences.  Mapped out on your scrap material or pattern 
paper, this should give you a slightly trapezoidal shape.  Now  measure the 
hieght difference from your underarm to your shoulder top -- about 5 inches 
for medium arms.  Find the center of the top of the trapezoid and draw a mark 
directly above it the number of inches you just measured.  Now draw a gentle 
arc that connects the right point of the top of the trapezoid to the center 
dot to the opposite trap corner.  (Your seam will be under your arm when sewn 
together.)  On the fitted undersleeves...  Although they were probably a 
separate fitted smock/underdress, you could easily do mock-sleeves sewn 
inside the bottom of your upper arm tubes to save material.  It'd be a bit 
cooler for summerwear.  I'm not a silk expert, since I'm more of a brocade 
and velvet fiend, but some sort of silk would look delicious on this dress I 
think.  And green is always a good choice.  :)

On lacing, you'll want to poke holes through the material with an awl 
(available at most fabric stores in the notions dept).  The awl moves the 
threads aside instead of cutting them, which means little fraying of your 
material at the eyelet.  I also suggest fusing a strip of interfacing to the 
inside of the silk where the holes will be, to reinforce it.  Grommets with 
washers are better than eyelets, cuz they don't rip out often.  Make holes 
about every inch on one side, then do the same on the other except start your 
row 1/2 an inch down from where you did on the first side.  That will set 
your holes for spiral lacing, which simply means lacing a single cord in a 
zigzag down both sides.  Knot one end to keep it in place, then slip on the 
dress and tighten.  Then tie off the other end.  Pic below (Drea's maybe?), 
though it doesn't show how the eyelets should be offset:

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/lizpics/lacing/splacing.jpg

The false braids would look wonderful with gold cord or maybe green ribbon to 
match your dress braided in.

Hope this helps,
Gillian
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  1 18:34:20 2002
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 18:59:50 -0500
Status: RO

I took Ben's first class and LOVED it. Wonderful info! I haven't been 
able to make anything from it yet except a pair of small brooches, 
but am itching to get started- on the jewelry, at least as much as 
the clothing. I loved the wealth of pictures!

I'd love to sign up for the next one but just can't spare the time 
again so soon after the first. I'm hoping it'll be offered again, 
though....

-Amanda
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: how I got into historical costuming...
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 19:46:58 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 1/1/02 3:42:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< Happy New Year!!!
I've been lurking on the list for some time now and I've noticed that there 
are a lot of costumers on it. So just for curiosity where are you all from 
and why are you interested in historical costume?>>

My Elizabethan name is Gillian Tedcastle, and I live in Boston.  I sewed the 
doll pillow that came with Simplicity sewing machines in the 80's, but when 
all the threads pulled right out I decided sewing wasn't for me, hehe.  I 
didn't know to backstitch or knot back then.

Today, I am a seamstess.  So how did that happen?  Well, I went off to 
college, and in a moment of boredom I decided to go to a meeting of the 
Medieval Guilde-- a club on campus.  That was 8 years ago.  I'd always been a 
reader of fantasy, and loved tales of knights, etc.  I ended up returning for 
more meetings, until the president announced an event was coming up and we 
had to "make" garb for it.  Me?!  Sew?!  But she held some workshops and 
brought her sewing machine for all to use, and I eventually made the most 
horrid piece of costuming ever.  I switched colleges after that, but my 
interest in sewing period garb continued.  After much practice, and learning 
sewing techniques--I highly recommend the "Vogue Sewing Book" -- I began to 
sell my creations at local LARPs.  I now do corsetry, modern gothic design, 
and renny garb.  I am still learning about historical patterns, so most of my 
comissions and sales to date are Dark Age or Renaissance-inspired fantasy.

<<My name is Rebecca Anderson and I live in Adelaide, South Australia. I 
started costuming less than 2 yrs ago. I've always been interested in 
history, then about 2 yrs ago I joined a historical re-enactment group and 
have been a costuming nut eversince.

Rebecca Anderson
aka Lady Adele Anders>>

Hello Rebecca!  And welcome to our lil list of obsessors.  *grin*

<<P.S. How does one make a Tudor style gable hood? I've looked at a lot of 
pics and I'm totaly stumped.>>

Well, below is a site for period headress of the same time period.  No gable 
hood yet, though.  Simplicity has a pattern including a gable hood, but I 
doubt it's accurate.  Perhaps you could combine the French hood by McMasters 
with the Simplicity pattern # 9929, since I do know the french evolved from 
the earlier gable.  But if Simplicity tells ya to use cardboard, don't.  Use 
buckram over a wire frame for historical accuracy, or plastic canvas for 
costume that won't get ruined in rain.

http://pweb.jps.net/~patterns/patterns.html

Incidentally, Simplicity has also come out with a pattern group inspired by 
Maulin Rouge = # 9899

Happy New Years!
Gillian
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 20:46:16 -0500
Status: RO


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> Happy New Year!!!I've been lurking on the list for some time now and
> I've noticed that there are a lot of costumers on it. So just for
> curiosity where are you all from and why are you interested in
> historical costume?
>
>


   Welcome and Hello!  I'm going to come out of 'lurk and comment
briefly' mode to pipe in my reasons why.....

   To introduce myself, my name is Crissy Brillant.  I started sewing as
soon as I was old enough to pick up a needle.   My earliest costume
memory is of my mother sewing ALL the costumes for our church's
production of Jesus Christ Superstar when I was 5yrs old. I fell in love
with all the shiny sparkly bits that were left over that she let me play
with. Soon enough I got a toy sewing machine that really sewed, but I
wanted to use the "big one " like Mom.  I was told I could use it when I
could reach the pedal.  The next day Mom came out to see me at the
machine trying to thread it. I had put the pedal up on several
encyclopedia volumes so I *could* reach it and I had already wound the
bobbin!  At this point she decided it would probably be easier to teach
me how to sew rather than argue that I was still too little to use her
machine.
     I have always enjoyed playing with color combinations and
embellishment options, but as a result I end up with things that are
"historically inspired" most times rather than "historically accurate".
I went to my first  Ren faire when I was 14 and fell in love with the
clothes. I started researching Elizabethan outfits and after a few years
found the group called the SCA. I joined soon enough.   Also, throughout
High school I always entered the Tech Competitions in the Theater
District Competitions as well as designing and building several shows.
   I went to college for Theatrical Design , but I found that I just
worked better on my own schedule. I didn't like the pressure of doing
four shows at once, with not much shop help.  After three years I quit
and ended up at Jo-ann's Fabrics.  At least I get my fabric fix daily
and I *don't * have to bring it all home!
    I still play quite actively in the SCA and I sew costumes for lots
of friends that perform in the local Ren faires and in the SCA.  I sell
"historically inspired" outfits at RenFaires ( costume flavors for the
masses...), but I have found myself edging towards more accurate fabrics
and styles for myself.  This still gives me an outlet for those
wonderful color combinations I started with in the first place......

And as to how I got the nickname SewingGoddess... well... I did one
small "Midwinter Medieval Festival" in sunny ol' Florida one warm
February day.  At a Nudist resort.  Very interesting. I went with an
open mind and with the intent to have a good time that day. Even if I
didn't sell any clothing. Was I ever wrong.  The nudists bought as much
garb in one weekend as I ususally sold at a regular small faire.  But
they didn't wear complete outfits... more like ... parts thereof.  Like
I said....very interesting weekend. So I ended up with the nickname
SewingGoddess, because I can and Have sold clothing to Nudists.

Sewing like a madwoman...another faire this weekend.....

Crissy

--------------23D40EF22028A3562C8C78A0
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<html>
&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>
<div style='background-color:'>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;
<p>Happy New Year!!!I've been lurking on the list for some time now and
I've noticed that there are a lot of costumers on it. So just for curiosity
where are you all from and why are you interested in historical costume?
<br>&nbsp;</div>
</blockquote>
&nbsp;
<p>&nbsp;&nbsp; Welcome and Hello!&nbsp; I'm going to come out of 'lurk
and comment briefly' mode to pipe in my reasons why.....
<p>&nbsp;&nbsp; To introduce myself, my name is Crissy Brillant.&nbsp;
I started sewing as soon as I was old enough to pick up a needle.&nbsp;&nbsp;
My earliest costume memory is of my mother sewing ALL the costumes for
our church's production of Jesus Christ Superstar when I was 5yrs old.
I fell in love with all the shiny sparkly bits that were left over that
she let me play with. Soon enough I got a toy sewing machine that really
sewed, but I wanted to use the "big one " like Mom.&nbsp; I was told I
could use it when I could reach the pedal.&nbsp; The next day Mom came
out to see me at the machine trying to thread it. I had put the pedal up
on several encyclopedia volumes so I *could* reach it and I had already
wound the bobbin!&nbsp; At this point she decided it would probably be
easier to teach me how to sew rather than argue that I was still too little
to use her machine.
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have always enjoyed playing with color combinations
and embellishment options, but as a result I end up with things that are
"historically inspired" most times rather than "historically accurate".&nbsp;
I went to my first&nbsp; Ren faire when I was 14 and fell in love with
the clothes. I started researching Elizabethan outfits and after a few
years found the group called the SCA. I joined soon enough.&nbsp;&nbsp;
Also, throughout High school I always entered the Tech Competitions in
the Theater District Competitions as well as designing and building several
shows.
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp; I went to college for Theatrical Design , but I found
that I just worked better on my own schedule. I didn't like the pressure
of doing four shows at once, with not much shop help.&nbsp; After three
years I quit and ended up at Jo-ann's Fabrics.&nbsp; At least I get my
fabric fix daily and I *don't * have to bring it all home!
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I still play quite actively in the SCA and I sew
costumes for lots of friends that perform in the local Ren faires and in
the SCA.&nbsp; I sell "historically inspired" outfits at RenFaires ( costume
flavors for the masses...), but I have found myself edging towards more
accurate fabrics and styles for myself.&nbsp; This still gives me an outlet
for those wonderful color combinations I started with in the first place......
<p>And as to how I got the nickname SewingGoddess... well... I did one
small "Midwinter Medieval Festival" in sunny ol' Florida one warm February
day.&nbsp; At a Nudist resort.&nbsp; Very interesting. I went with an open
mind and with the intent to have a good time that day. Even if I didn't
sell any clothing. Was I ever wrong.&nbsp; The nudists bought as much garb
in one weekend as I ususally sold at a regular small faire.&nbsp; But they
didn't wear complete outfits... more like ... parts thereof.&nbsp; Like
I said....very interesting weekend. So I ended up with the nickname SewingGoddess,
because I can and Have sold clothing to Nudists.
<p>Sewing like a madwoman...another faire this weekend.....
<p>Crissy</html>

--------------23D40EF22028A3562C8C78A0--

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So.... does this mean you're going to be at Peasant's Revolt this coming =
weekend?
Moira
ps did you go to Hero of the Chalice this past weekend?
  Sewing like a madwoman...another faire this weekend.....

  Crissy


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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>So.... does this mean you're going to =
be at
Peasant's Revolt this coming weekend?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Moira</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>ps did you go to Hero of the Chalice this past
weekend?</FONT></DIV>
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style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <P>Sewing like a madwoman...another faire this weekend.....
  <P>Crissy </P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 21:25:58 -0600 (CST)
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I've just posted a bunch of fabric for sale to the h-cost marketplace
list. If you missed out on the discussion of this, you can join at
<www.communityzero.com/hcostume/index.cfm>. Or, if you prefer, email me
directly and I'll send you a list of what I have available.

--Robin


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Welcome to the list, Rebecca! There are plenty of fellow costume addicts =
here to share your passions. ;-)

I am from Southeast Alabama (well, originally from Virginia, but moved =
down here this past September). My husband and I do American Civil War =
(Confederate) reenacting with our three little boys, and we've also =
dabbled in Regency and Colonial reenacting. I started sewing by hand for =
my dolls when I was five and on the machine when I was eight. I hated =
sewing on the machine and quit doing it when I was ten, swearing I'd =
never learn to use patterns or sew for anything larger than an 18" doll! =
But when I was 14 and saw "Anne of Green Gables" on television, I begged =
my mother to make me dresses like Anne's. She wryly pointed to the =
sewing machine, and that's when I determined to conquer it. I've loved =
it ever since. I made countless vintage-style outfits for myself before =
I ever sewed for others, and I started my own costuming business back in =
1996 when I was married. Now, with three little boys requiring lots of =
mommy time, I just make patterns for others and sew for myself and my =
family (with occasional exceptions when a project comes along that I =
can't resist!). My favorite era to wear is the English Regency, but the =
Edwardian era runs a close second. I love reenacting, but I usually end =
up frustrated with the yards and yards of material involved in sewing =
mid-Victorian fashions. ;-)

Right now I am working on a new tailcoat and narrow fall trousers for my =
husband for a Regency evening party we'll be attending in February. Then =
I'll make a new ballgown for myself. I just finished an 1830s day dress =
inspired by one of the outfits in A&E's "Wives and Daughters" =
miniseries. I just published a 1940s "Swing" dress pattern that I began =
work on in 2001. The next pattern on my drawing board is a 1914 =
afternoon dress, and I am currently doing the finishing work on a =
Regency spencer/pelisse pattern that I hope to publish this Spring.

Again, welcome to the list, and have fun!

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Welcome to the list, Rebecca! There are =
plenty of
fellow costume addicts here to share your passions. ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am from Southeast Alabama (well, originally from
Virginia, but moved down here this past September). My husband and I do American
Civil War (Confederate) reenacting with our three little boys, and we've also
dabbled in Regency and Colonial reenacting. I started sewing by hand for my
dolls when I was five and on the machine when I was eight. I hated sewing on the
machine and quit doing it when I was ten, swearing I'd never learn to use
patterns or sew for anything larger than an 18" doll! But when I was 14 and saw
"Anne of Green Gables" on television, I begged my mother to make me dresses like
Anne's. She wryly pointed to the sewing machine, and that's when I determined to
conquer it. I've loved it ever since. I made countless vintage-style outfits for
myself before I ever sewed for others, and I started my own costuming business
back in 1996 when I was married. Now, with three little boys requiring lots of
mommy time, I just make patterns for others and sew for myself and my family
(with occasional exceptions when a project comes along that I can't resist!). My
favorite era to wear is the English Regency, but the Edwardian era runs a close
second. I love reenacting, but I usually end up frustrated with the yards and
yards of material involved in sewing mid-Victorian fashions. ;-) =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Right now I am working on a new tailcoat and narrow
fall trousers for my husband for a Regency evening party we'll be attending in
February. Then I'll make a new ballgown for myself. I just finished an 1830s day
dress inspired by one of the outfits in A&amp;E's "Wives and Daughters"
miniseries. I just published a 1940s "Swing" dress pattern that I began work on
in 2001. The next pattern on my drawing board is a 1914 afternoon dress, and I
am currently doing the finishing work on a Regency spencer/pelisse pattern that
I hope to publish this Spring.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Again, welcome to the list, and have
fun!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Cheers,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jennie Chancey</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - =
- - - -
-<BR>Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns<BR><A
href=3D"http://www.sensibility.com">http://www.sensibility.com</A><BR>win=
some
clothing with an old-fashioned appeal</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Sorcerers vs Philosophers...
References: <200112281359.fBSDxiZ28639@net.indra.com> from
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 22:29:42 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. I think the German is the closest to the intended meaning, as the
stone in question is intended to turn any base metal into gold. The English
usage is generally termed "Philosopher's Stone". I am glad that J.K. Rowling
did her homework, and Nicolas Flamel and his wife were included. I knew I was
wierd when I knew the answers to all of the questions that Professor Snape
asks Harry (the answer to the first question is not Draught of the Living
Death, but a vermifuge and antidote against the stings of spiders and
scorpions). Don't have any costume content to go with that...Mike T.

> Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de> asks
> >
> >Oh, another useless question -- when and for whom (England, America,
> >Australia, New Zealand?) is it "Harry Potter and the Philosophers' Stone"
> >or "Harry Potter and the Sorcerers' Stone", and does any of that have the
> >connotations of the German "Stein der Weisen", which was supposed to be
> >the ultimate ingredient in alchemy to produce gold, and is proverbial for
> >some ultimate good you search but never achieve?
>

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Subject: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for the list
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 22:17:42 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

Even though, I started it, I consider it the list's community.  For those 
who used the list "invitation" to sign up they don't need my (the community 
administrator's) approval.  However, those who signed up through the site 
do require approval. So, here is my question.  Should people who sign-up 
(not through "invitation") and don't disclose a name or email be 
approved?  How does everyone feel about that?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  1 22:56:57 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR - end credits
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 23:14:59 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. I believe it was the Maori language, although what it's proper name is,
I don't know. I loved the little detail on the boats. The paddles were of a
type found in the South Pacific, but I suppose the art director thought they
looked Elvish, being leaf shaped and all. Everywhere, John Howe's influence
could be seen (Gothic plate on the Ringwraiths, a sweet 15th Cent hand-and-a
half sword with byeknife for Aragorn, a great 15th/16th Cent lantern carried
by the gatekeeper at Bree, etc.) John and his compatriot Gerry Embleton have
one of the best (if not THE best) 15th cent. reenactment groups in the world
(The Companie of Saynte George). You can see them on their website
http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/index_1.phtml  If you go to the Gallery
page, and look at the picture entitled "Swiss in snow above Grandson", you
can see John (the guy in the middle).  Mike T.   (We are not worthy...We are
not worthy)



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  1 23:02:36 2002
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 23:21:14 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. The studs on Boromirs tunic looked different and asymmetrical to me.
One looked like a diamond, another like a bird. They might have perhaps tried
to create different types of spangles of different shapes. they looked to me
like the metal fittings from the Sutton Hoo shield, some geometric, some animal
based, and the stuff on the sleeves looked to me like embroidery in bullion.
Mike T.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  1 23:17:52 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for the list
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 22:37:30 -0600
Status: RO

What is the point of being a part of a community if you do not disclose who
you are or how to get a hold of you?

My answer is no. No shirt, no shoes, no name, no email, no entrance.

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤

----- Original Message -----
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 10:17 PM
Subject: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for the
list


> Greetings,
>
> Even though, I started it, I consider it the list's community.  For those
> who used the list "invitation" to sign up they don't need my (the
community
> administrator's) approval.  However, those who signed up through the site
> do require approval. So, here is my question.  Should people who sign-up
> (not through "invitation") and don't disclose a name or email be
> approved?  How does everyone feel about that?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 22:04:49 -0700
Status: RO

I agree. Put up or shut up.

MD/Marged

Chiara wrote:
> 
> What is the point of being a part of a community if you do not disclose who
> you are or how to get a hold of you?
> 
> My answer is no. No shirt, no shoes, no name, no email, no entrance.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Franchesca Havas
> McKinney, Texas
> €º°`°º€ø,¸¸,ø€º°`°º€ø€º°`°º€ø,¸¸,ø€º°`°º€ø€º°`°º€ø,¸¸,ø€º°`°º€Ù
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  1 23:35:51 2002
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  for the  list
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 23:06:28 -0600
Status: RO

Well that was easy.  I happen to agree.  I just didn't want to be 
autocratic about it.  The person was declined with a message saying that 
the community was designed specifically for members of this list.

cheers,
Danielle

At 10:04 PM 1/1/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I agree. Put up or shut up.
>
>MD/Marged
>
>Chiara wrote:
> >
> > What is the point of being a part of a community if you do not disclose who
> > you are or how to get a hold of you?
> >
> > My answer is no. No shirt, no shoes, no name, no email, no entrance.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Franchesca Havas
> > McKinney, Texas
> > €º°`°º€ø,¸¸,ø€º°`°º€ø€º°`°º€ø,¸¸,ø€º°`°º€ø€º°`°º€ø,¸¸,ø€º°`°º€Ù

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] HCostume fabric sell or swap...
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 00:18:50 -0500
Status: RO

For those of you who missed the invitation for the
communities the first time - here it is again.

Cheers,
Danielle

	
Your invitation to join:
"HCostume fabric sell or swap..."

TO JOIN, CLICK HERE:
http://www.communityzero.com/hcostume/index.cfm?key=633-RUX

After clicking on the above link you will see the community's 
welcome page.  Click the 'JOIN THIS COMMUNITY' link found on 
the center of the welcome page.

Your invitation key is: 633-RUX

----------------------------------------------------------------

If you cannot click on the link, cut and paste the Web address 
into the "Address" area of your Web browser.  Note that the 
invitation key is NOT your user name.  You must select your own
user name and password when creating a new account.

This is a private and interactive website for the group. 
Registration is free and your privacy will be respected. You 
will not receive e-mail SPAM after registration.

If you experience problems using the above link, please ensure
it was not split into two lines.  If so, cut and paste the full
Web address into the Web browser's "Address" area.

This invitation was sent by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 00:05:50 2002
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0Xb$AEAc5KM8Iw3A@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colors 2002 Predictions
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 00:29:02 -0500
Status: RO

The Color Marketing group is actually the largest color organization for
people in the color related industries.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 00:49:56 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Why I got into Costume
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 01:07:59 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Rebecca and welcome!!!!

I have interest in most areas of costume, historic, fantasy, wearable, film,
bridal, holiday, and current and futuristic fashion.  I do have a special
fondness for historic costume, film, and wearable art.   I do have favorite
areas bustle & 1890s eras and Egyptian.  I research color history in fashion
and have a blast trying to predict fashion trends.

After three decades and having six kids, I finally finished my degree in
fashion in 1997 with emphasis in costume design, marketing, and computers.
I am a member of Costume Society of America and served (past tense) as their
webmaster for three years.

I have been sewing since 4 y.o. I got into fashion because of home ec. in
6th grade.  I stayed in that study for 6 years.  I also took a lot of art
and mechanical drawing classes.  I got into historic costume study the last
time I went back to college.  I did my internship in a museum's costume
collection... so that really hooked me on historic costume.  I got into film
costume because I married a film major.  I love fantasy costume because I
grew up around Mardi Gras.  I got hooked on wearable art clothing five years
ago at an annual show in Williamsburg, VA.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 00:50:49 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for the list
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 22:15:27 -0800
Status: RO

It really is for h-cost members.  You should probably post an invitation to the
list (as you just did) on a monthly basis or so, because our population is
constantly changing.

When you returned the "rejection" notice, did you send the h-cost signup
address? We don't want to lose good new members just because they're knocking on
the back door :)

MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
> Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 8:18 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for
> the list
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> Even though, I started it, I consider it the list's community.  For those
> who used the list "invitation" to sign up they don't need my (the community
> administrator's) approval.  However, those who signed up through the site
> do require approval. So, here is my question.  Should people who sign-up
> (not through "invitation") and don't disclose a name or email be
> approved?  How does everyone feel about that?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 00:55:50 2002
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From: "Margretta de Vries" <mdevries@sunflower.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Kat and violence in LOTR
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 00:26:00 -0600
Status: RO

You know, Tolkien himself said that these books were not, in fact, a
metaphor for WWII.  I am not sure where the quote is to be found, but I will
look.

Margretta
(delurking)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Azelana@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 1:37 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Kat and violence in LOTR


In a message dated 12/31/01 2:34:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< I agree with Margo, however. I didn't care much for it as it was
 *way* too violent for me. I spent a good portion of the movie
 (especially in the last part) with my head buried in my husband's
 shoulder going "are they done fighting yet." However, since it is a
 cultural icon, I will go see the other two. >>

Oh dear!  There's going to be a war, ya know...  LOTR is a metaphorical
account of Tolkien's own emotional experiences of WWII, written into a
fantasy story.  I'm afraid it will get MUCH more violent.  Felt I should
warn
you.

--Gillian
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 00:56:05 2002
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From: "Margretta de Vries" <mdevries@sunflower.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] new year's needlework resolutions
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 00:26:01 -0600
Status: RO

My needlework resolution is to finish one project every month.  I am trying
to expand my civil war reenacting wardrobe, and this is the only way it is
going to get done!

Margretta de Vries
deluring (again) in Lawrence, KS

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 6:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] new year's needlework resolutions


The new year begins Tuesday.

One needlework resolution is to finish the macrame purse I should have
finished this year for my ship-captain's-wife Dickens' Fair character.  I
finally got all the string measured out...  This character also needs a
collar and cuff set, petticoat and drawers and chemise lace, and maybe a
breakfast cap, all in crochet.  But I don't know if I want to encumber my
resolution list with those or not.

None of my other historical characters, nor dolls, are screaming for
needlework at this moment.  (I'm sure they will when I'm in the middle of
something else.)

Does anyone else have new year's needlework resolutions?

Kayta
   //// \\\
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 01:04:32 2002
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Welcome Crissy!!!!

I got a good laugh about the nudist marketplace...... who would have
thought!!!!! ROTFLMBO

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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<DIV>I got a good laugh about the nudist marketplace...... who would =
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; =
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 01:50:29 -0500
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If you came to the Costume Classroom and filled out a registration form for
a class and you have NOT heard back from me, please go to
www.costumeclassroom.com and fill the form out again.  We have had some
major problems with our form for the past month.  We finally have it working
properly.

Drea's class, 16th Century Women, is very close to filling up and I don't
want some of you to miss out on it.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Anglo-Saxon burials
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 07:14:00 -0000
Status: RO

>I took Ben's first class and LOVED it. Wonderful info! I haven't been 
able to make anything from it yet except a pair of small brooches, 
but am itching to get started- on the jewelry, at least as much as 
the clothing. I loved the wealth of pictures!


I make early Anglo Saxon brooches see www.pastclass.com

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] LOTR Costume Detail
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 23:55:01 -0800
Status: RO

Ring Wraith details:

Here's  a couple of photo of the horsemen not mounted
http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/2351 - full shot
http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/2207 - 3 quarter, w/ hobbit
bed

Here they are as the witch king
http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/2390
http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/2200 - full shot, little
fuzzy


The best pictures are in the silly little Insider Guide.  There are a couple
of photos (well lit) of them at rest where you can even see seam lines

Another thing is check out the toys to get an approximation of what the
costume is "perceived" to look like.

Re: finding black gauze... the fabrics look distressed and over dyed.  For a
really good look you might try to die it and go for different blackish
colors for the layers.  Maybe even start with some layers almost close to
cheese cloth.  (All guesses here.)  If you live near a bit city, head for
the garment district and look for damaged fabric... you want this dusty,
stained, torn, etc.

-Cat-

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Subject: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 00:40:46 -0800
Status: RO


>
>>
>> I'm presently trying to come up with something beautiful but practical for
>> being in a wheelchair and a herald.;-}
>


Once I saw a book on sewing for wheelchair folks.  One thing it suggested was
leaving open the seam from waist to hem in back (if the person never walks,
this is OK).  Another was to always make the fit loose enough that there was no
binding, no tight spot, anywhere, especially if they had trouble dressing
themselves or with arm motions (I gather you don't have a problem here).

My favourite suggestion for wheelchair folks is to decorate the chair itself. 
This will tend to frame the sitter whatever he/she is wearing.  The simplest
way is to hang a banner (or a nice piece of cloth) down the back of the chair. 
Cloth slipcovers for the arms don't hurt the looks either.  If you do
Renaissance, look at the chairs in Ren. portraits for ideas.  (I was at a
Science Fiction convention, and someone had decorated her chair like a
futuristic transport pod, which went with her space ship uniform.)

My housemate will always have to use a chair, and even tho the thing is really
high tech and motorized (and cost more than my car did) he still looks really
good wearing his evening clothes and sitting in the chair at Dickens' Fair or
historical dances.  He wears his old Ren. Faire clothes when he goes to Ren.
Faire, and so what if the chair isn't period.


Kayta
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 22:16:13 +1300
Status: RO


- <<Did find the pointy front in the front of just one bodice.  It was very
shallow. and by the way the bodice bows out at the waist, I'll guess
pollyboning was used.  Backs and sides look solidly interfaced and probably
has enough boning to hold the seams solid.  The bust shapes are round and
covered by the square necked bodices.  All are square necked. Guess on
pattern.  Probably darts, partially because the  heaving interfacing and
bias  binding to finish the edges are all theatrical tricks I used to use.
(Amazing the details you can see w/ a jeweler's loop! <G>)>>

Not too sure, having worn costumes made up by the same people, darts are
almost certainly out.
All the costumes I wore and saw in the costume rooms at PR were flatlined,
and used seams for shaping. We are talking from ancient fantasy(Xena) to
18thC fantasy(JoAT) to furturistic fantasy(Cleo). She did not like darts:).
Bias covered cord was used to edge anything boned and fitted and yes,
polyboning is about the only thing you can get in NZ (but it's not Rigilene)
Grommets are used and a placket sewn to one side of the laced openings.
Boned bodices were lined in calico and a double layer for the boning to sit
in, then the linings sewn to the fabric (and overlocked) and then seamed
together. The cording sewn after this, then hand basted inside.
It's how I make my costumes: neater, closer fitting, easily adjustable to
size fluctuations and stong.. that's the big thing. Costumes were in
wardrobe for several years worn by many people and washed many times, so had
to last:) And yes, I was strongly influenced by what I saw in the
department.

And there was at least one woman with a buttoned front bodice, relatively
high curved v neck and in a dullish colour. Reminded me of a riding habit
actually.
And I loved the waist coats of the male hobbits:). It was exactly what I
imagined.. as I thought the desciptions in the book were very "country
gentlman in his home" feeling:)

michaela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR - end credits -- again
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 22:31:46 +1300
Status: RO

> I've been looking on vcarious fan sites and can't find any mention.  But
they do
> say that Maori shamen (or whatever the correct term is) blessed the
various
> shooting sites, so it may be safe to say it's either a thank you or a
blessing
> of some kind.

Tohunga:) Elder rather than shaman.
But it's a thank you to the people (Maori) of New Zealand (Tangata Whenua o
Aoteroa) not specific individuals. The blessing is usually to lift a tapu,
maybe someone had died on a site (we had a blessing at the Mt Wellington RSA
where three people were beaten to death and a women in ICU) and
automatically becomes tapu. And there are a lot of sacred sites, ancestors
burials etc.
A lot of land was taken illegally or by underhand methods in the colonial
days, and in recent years it's been attempted to be recified. The Treaty of
Waitangi is a veru controversial document as there are several versions ...
some say one things some another, definate differences between the maori and
english translations.
So thanking the Tangata Whenua of the land goes some way to recognising the
injustices. Rather than just taking for commerical material gain, it's been
properly asked for and thanked.

It's only just recently that the majority of Pakeha accepted that there are
wrongs to atone for. Or even accept that the word Pakeha does not mean white
pig or some derogatory term.

aroha
michaela
Whenua is pronounced fenua, each vaowel pure like italian, wh is only
pronounced w in certain parts of NZ.. and then some areas use double
vowels...

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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 03:06:52 -0800
Status: RO

I do have favorite
>areas bustle & 1890s eras and Egyptian.

Egyptian from when?  I used to be big into the earlier Dynastic stuff, but
now I prefer the later Coptic stuff, especially the weaving, and the 19th
century 'ethnic' stuff.

Kayta
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  for the list
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 03:02:20 -0800
Status: RO

Should people who sign-up 
>(not through "invitation") and don't disclose a name or email be 
>approved?  How does everyone feel about that?

I'd say no to that.  They could be collecting addresses for some SPAM list,
for all we knew.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for the list
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 06:13:35 -0600
Status: RO

We are talking about exchanging either money or fabric here (not sure which
is more important!) I would feel funny about sending money to someone who
won't even disclose their name or email!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 10:17 PM
Subject: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for the
list


> Greetings,
>
> Even though, I started it, I consider it the list's community.  For those
> who used the list "invitation" to sign up they don't need my (the
community
> administrator's) approval.  However, those who signed up through the site
> do require approval. So, here is my question.  Should people who sign-up
> (not through "invitation") and don't disclose a name or email be
> approved?  How does everyone feel about that?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: stolen clothes
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> That's terrible!  A holiday nightmare!  I wish there was something to
> be done, but I can only suggest watching all the local consignment
> shops for the next 2 months. The thieves will want to make some money
> off the venture, and consignment is the pawn shop for fancy clothes.

What's a consignment shop?

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 12:07:56 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> After all the raving, maybe it's time for a different opinion....
> 
> I was looking forward to LOTR, becasue I've never been able to get
> through the books, and I was hoping the movie would show me just what
> it is that so many people love about this story.  Unfortunately, the
> movie took what I didn't like about the books and made it more so. 

I'm not a great fan of the books - too much long boring description 
of endless travel through meticulously described countryside which 
could all be cut and make it one book instead of three and still tell 
the story.  It was a much better read the second time around as I 
knew which bits were nothing but travelogue and could be skipped 
without missing them....<g>   

I *did* like the film. 

All except the Elven Bint's dress... I sat there thinking "Surely a 
powerful elf could come up with something better than white nylon 
lace with spangles - she looked like she'd just stepped out of a bad 
1980's medieval fancy-dress party.....<shudder>

Other than that, I thought it was a wonderfully *lose yourself in the 
on-screen action* film.

Teddy 
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Opps
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 11:45:22 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > Unless you have typical baby-fine northern european hair.  Then the
> > silky stuff looks stiff next to your own hair.
> 
> Actually, I do have baby fine northern european hair, and it's
> extremely difficult to do anything with it at all. 

I can vouch for that - Stevie's hair has that lovely baby-whispy 
texture that looks great but must be hell to do anything with.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: stolen clothes
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 08:28:37 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Teddy, Happy New Year!

A consignment shop is a type of resale shop.  If you have an item to sell,
but don't want to go through the hassle of advertising it yourself, then a
consignment shop will accept the item for sale in their shop. Length of
contracts vary, but are usually around 90 days.  The one I go to locally
starts to mark down after 30 days, and then again at 60 days, trying to move
the item. They get a percentage of the sale price for doing virtually all of
the work, but it is a really easy way to sell off furniture, better
clothing, jewelry, electronics, etc.  My local shop carries quite a bit of
formal wear, so it's very possible that your stolen costumes may turn up in
such a place.

Linda

---- Original Message -----
From: "Teddy"
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: stolen clothes


> What's a consignment shop?
>
> Teddy
>

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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 13:44:08 +0000
Status: RO

I seem to remember reading that Montrose's army (Scots Royalists in the "English" Civil War) on ce fought a battle in a heatwave, when the Highlanders took off their heavy plaids and fought in their shirts with the tails knotted together. I'll see if I can find the reference when I get home.
I've also seen a list of clothing issued to English soldiers at this period, including shirts but not drawers, which made me wonder idly whether the common man perhaps didn't wear them? 


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sorcerer's stone vs. philosopher's stone
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 09:33:35 -0500
Status: RO


I heard a radio interviewer ask this very question. The answer is not that
Americans are too stupid to know what the philosopher's stone is, but that
the marketers thought "sorcerer" would sound more exciting to American kids
than "philosopher." I have to agree that that's probably true, but I also
imagine it's irrelevant, considering the worldwide popularity of the book.

The same person being interviewed (I forget who it was) said that the film
called "The Madness of King George" in the USA was originally called either
"King George III" or "The Madness of King George III" -- British folks,
please enlighten us. The US marketers left off the III because they thought
Americans would be confused and think it referred to a sequel -- you know,
coming after "The Madness of King George II."

Gail Finke


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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 14:44:14 +0000
Status: RO

There's no accounting for taste - what I like *best* about the books is the imaginary geography and the adventure story. I read Vol.1 from the library when I was a student about to spend a year abroad, and HAD to buy the omnibus edition to take with me as I couldn't bear not to know what happened next. I know the mythological part was most important to Prof. Tolkien, but personally I find it rather tedious.
Costume note; I haven't seen the film yet, but I notice from clips that not much seems to have been made of the hobbits' famous hairy feet. I thought they were supposed to be so thickly furred that the hobbits didn't need to wear shoes or stockings, which must affect the males' choice of legwear?


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] redingote
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 14:42:12 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> A couple of my friends and I are doing costumes for Costume Con in
> 2003. 
>  The gentleman involved is not confident enough to draft his own
> pattern, so he wants to know what commercially available pattern is
> the most accurate, easiest to use, etc.

<SNIP> 

> the ones on this site: http://www.harriets.com/Colonialmen.htm 
> 
> Could you let me know if either of these are any good, or if there are
> others he should consider instead?  He is looking for a 1740's look
> (to match his wife's outfit). 

I used 47A shown on that site for my red and white brocade coat 
that was stolen before Christmas.  The coat came out OK in the 
end but the pattern was less than helpful (no instructions for a 
start), the sizing was "small, medium or large" and there was only 
one size of sleeves (the largest) which needed several inces cut off 
both seams in order to make them anywhere near narrow enough 
for the medium size.... and fitting the sleeve-head to the armhole 
was a nightmare.  The fullness of the skirts, on the other hand, was 
wonderfully swirly.

Just my opinion of it.... 

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 14:25:05 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I was under the impression a guy wrapped his parts in his shirt tail
> and then put the wrapped package into the codpiece.

That's what works for me (except it's the front of the shirt not the 
back "tails").

Teddy
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From: Kate <ailithmac@yahoo.com>
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 06:51:37 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

One of my earliest memories is being in my Gran's NE Ohio home
sitting on the floor watching the wheel spin while she worked the
treadle on her old Singer sewing machine. It absolutely fascinated
me! By the time I was six, I was making my doll clothes--so I began
sewing fairly early. My first costume attempt for myself was sometime
before I was 10--I tried to make a Little Bo Peep costume by myself.

When I was in my early twenties, a friend and I discovered science
fiction conventions and fantasy costuming. My first (for her) was a
"Pre-Reform Vulcan" that looked more like an escapee from a harem!
:-D

Much later, after I got married, another friend invited me to come
visit her in Germany. Needless to say, I jumped at the chance to
go--a free place to stay--I only needed my air fare and spending
money!

Anyway, she was in the SCA and there was an event going on just about
the same time that I arrived, so I needed to bring a gown to wear. I
borrowed someone's Known World Handbook and made a gown based on its
the instructions (ugly thing too!). She helped me make sleeves for it
when I got there.

The day of the event (Drachenwald's investiture of a new Prince and
Princess), I was stunned by the breathtakingly wonderful clothing I
saw--ladies in Cavalier, gentlemen in Landskenect (sp?), Italian
Renaissance clothing--that was it, I was hooked!

I've been doing 16th century Italian gowns ever since (almost 12
years, now). It gives me a *reason* to collect all of the nifty
fabrics that I love so much! :-) Where ever I go, I keep an eye out
for appropriate fabric and buy it when I find it. You just never know
when you might need 10 yards of deep green brocade!

The gown that I made for my first SCA event lives on and is worn
occasionally by a friend of mine...It's an olive-y green silk blend
that will never die! ;-D

If I weren't in the SCA I'd still make costumes of some kind, even if
they weren't for real people. I make cloth dolls that look like
children and love to dress them in period styles of clothing (ranging
from the Renaissance to Edwardian mostly). I've only made a few in
recent years, but I still have the patterns and hope to find the time
to make more of my "kids" when I graduate in a couple of years
(computer science and technology).

Kate




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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 09:47:01 -0500
Status: RO


I didn't think Galadriel's dress was made of lace fabric. It was pretty huge
up there on the screen, and it looked like a sort of beaded gauze scarf from
India that I used to have and love. It hung like gauze, anyway, not like
lace. My particular scarf had spangly things glued to it, or maybe glittery
things in the glue, but this might have been actually hand-beaded, of
course. And Boromir's cote seemed to be made of an Indian sari fabric to me.

I also wouldn't call it Pre-Raphaelite in style. It was much simpler even
than that -- the P-Rs liked smocking and other details. Some of the other
costumes, however, had that influence.

I enjoyed the costumes very much, even if I did't care for them all
personally. What a nice job everyone did.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 10:08:28 -0500
Status: RO

The hairy feet were there, and they looked great. None of the men hobbits
were wearing any kind of footwear and the pant legs were of the "highwater"
style.  I remember reading an interview with Elijah Wood, he said that the
prosthetics were a pain, they kept coming off at all the wrong times.  With
all the action that the hobbits did, from running, climbing, swordfighting
and even swimming, I don't think I ever saw them not look like they were
real. I guess that's just the magic of post-production work.

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va. USA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting"
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR


> Costume note; I haven't seen the film yet, but I notice from clips that
not much seems to have been made of the hobbits' famous hairy feet. I
thought they were supposed to be so thickly furred that the hobbits didn't
need to wear shoes or stockings, which must affect the males' choice of
legwear?
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby


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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sorcerer's stone vs. philosopher's stone
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 15:06:48 +0000
Status: RO

Alan Bennett's play is called "The madness of George III".  According to www.snopes2.com, the reason for the change of title for the film was not so much the oft-quoted "people would think it was a sequel", as a perceived need to add the word "King" for the benefit of American audiences.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> gailscott@eos.net 01/02/02 02:33pm >>>

I heard a radio interviewer ask this very question. The answer is not that
Americans are too stupid to know what the philosopher's stone is, but that
the marketers thought "sorcerer" would sound more exciting to American kids
than "philosopher." I have to agree that that's probably true, but I also
imagine it's irrelevant, considering the worldwide popularity of the book.

The same person being interviewed (I forget who it was) said that the film
called "The Madness of King George" in the USA was originally called either
"King George III" or "The Madness of King George III" -- British folks,
please enlighten us. The US marketers left off the III because they thought
Americans would be confused and think it referred to a sequel -- you know,
coming after "The Madness of King George II."

Gail Finke


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR - Elvish and costumes
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 14:53:16 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> when Galadriel first descends the stairs to meet the travelers --
> all bright, shimmery and opalescent. Yummy! 

Sorry to disagree - but I thought it looked cheap and tacky.... it was 
the one jarring part of the entire film for me (I got elbowed by the 
person sitting next to me for squeaking, "Ugh!  Nylon lace!!")

Teddy

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 15:20:01 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > Even though, I started it, I consider it the list's community.  For
> > those who used the list "invitation" to sign up they don't need my
> > (the community administrator's) approval.  However, those who signed
> > up through the site do require approval. 

I wouldn't be able to register at all as Surname is a required field 
and I don't have one.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Why I got into Costume
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 10:59:47 -0500
Status: RO

Kayta,

My interest is very broad over the entire culture.  My husband has traveled
all over Egypt.  For our 30 wedding anniversary, we are planning to stay in
Egypt for a month.  Since we are only at our 23rd year presently, we have a
lot of time for planning.

Did you see the four hour special on A&E last night about the pharaohs?  If
you did, do you have any opinions of the show?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 11:56:07 -0600 (CST)
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On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Teddy wrote:

> I wouldn't be able to register at all as Surname is a required field 
> and I don't have one.

Maybe, for the purposes of the list, you could use Evilbunny?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colors 2002 Predictions
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 09:20:35 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_4008359==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Ever looked for a deep blue shirt in what appears to be a sea of the same 
french blue shirt? Ever walked through a mall looking for a certain item in 
a certain color and noticed that every seems to have the variations on the 
same garment but not in the color you wanted?

When I was in school and I had to designs lines or groups, these books were 
essential!  These subscriptions sell for thousands.  I was lucky in that I 
had free access to these during my school days. But when I graduated and 
began really designing for a living (not costumes),  I really felt out of 
the loop if the company I worked for didn't have them available.  If you 
work for a larger garment producer, they will have all these volumes in 
their design libraries.  Trust me, when you have to spec out lines 18 
months in advance, you really love these services.

There are similar subscription services for silhouettes and fabric trends, 
along with just the color forecasts.  These are forecasted out 2 years in 
advance in quarterly segments.

Now not everyone follows these forecasts exactly.  Sometimes a designer 
will add color options into a line that were nothing near the forecasted 
colors.  This is a calculated risk.  If everyone is doing chinese red 
turtlenecks and you offer the only deep eggplant turtleneck out there 
(provided the costing points are relatively the same), you should see a 
nice rise in sales.  Or you'll end up with a ton of these turtlenecks going 
to outlets, whence the calculated risk.  There are lots of ways the 
calculated risk can pay off besides increased sales of one item but I'll 
leave all that to the merchandising folks.

At 06:28 PM 12/31/2001 +0000, you wrote:
>Are these people related to wine critics?  "A multicultural red" ..." a
>hueful neutral"  Do you think we'll be able to tell them from western
>imperialist red and light grey?
>
>Jean
>
> >Overall, Color Directions for 2002 are fresh and clean,
> >yet the colors are fascinatingly adaptable. Hues are ambiguous
> >with mixed undertones that allow them to cross color families
> >without being wholly defined by one.

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

--=====================_4008359==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica">Ever looked for a deep blue shirt in what
appears to be a sea of the same french blue shirt? Ever walked through a
mall looking for a certain item in a certain color and noticed that every
seems to have the variations on the same garment but not in the color you
wanted?  <br><br>
When I was in school and I had to designs lines or groups, these books
were essential!&nbsp; These subscriptions sell for thousands.&nbsp; I was
lucky in that I had free access to these during my school days. But when
I graduated and began really designing for a living (not costumes),&nbsp;
I really felt out of the loop if the company I worked for didn't have
them available.&nbsp; If you work for a larger garment producer, they
will have all these volumes in their design libraries.&nbsp; Trust me,
when you have to spec out lines 18 months in advance, you really love
these services.<br><br>
There are similar subscription services for silhouettes and fabric
trends, along with just the color forecasts.&nbsp; These are forecasted
out 2 years in advance in quarterly segments.&nbsp; <br><br>
Now not everyone follows these forecasts exactly.&nbsp; Sometimes a
designer will add color options into a line that were nothing near the
forecasted colors.&nbsp; This is a calculated risk.&nbsp; If everyone is
doing chinese red turtlenecks and you offer the only deep eggplant
turtleneck out there (provided the costing points are relatively the
same), you should see a nice rise in sales.&nbsp; Or you'll end up with a
ton of these turtlenecks going to outlets, whence the calculated
risk.&nbsp; There are lots of ways the calculated risk can pay off
besides increased sales of one item but I'll leave all that to the
merchandising folks.<br><br>
At 06:28 PM 12/31/2001 +0000, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Are these people related to wine
critics?&nbsp; &quot;A multicultural red&quot; ...&quot; a<br>
hueful neutral&quot;&nbsp; Do you think we'll be able to tell them from
western<br>
imperialist red and light grey?<br><br>
Jean<br><br>
&gt;Overall, Color Directions for 2002 are fresh and clean,<br>
&gt;yet the colors are fascinatingly adaptable. Hues are ambiguous<br>
&gt;with mixed undertones that allow them to cross color families<br>
&gt;without being wholly defined by one.<br>
</font></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica" color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font face="Arial, Helvetica">University of California, Davis
<br>
</font></b></html>

--=====================_4008359==_.ALT--

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:31:49 EST
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Somehow I missed out on the original and didn't get signed up (at least I 
don't think I did) and now they are making me go through the whole 
application thing.  I did it, but have not been "approved" yet.  What a 
bummer.  If I am not approved I will just forget it.  Does that tell you how 
us "outsiders" feel?

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Somehow I missed out on the original and didn't get signed up (at least I don't think I did) and now they are making me go through the whole application thing. &nbsp;I did it, but have not been "approved" yet. &nbsp;What a bummer. &nbsp;If I am not approved I will just forget it. &nbsp;Does that tell you how us "outsiders" feel?
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for the list
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:33:03 EST
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In a message dated 1/1/02 11:49:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, chiara@io.com 
writes:


> My answer is no. No shirt, no shoes, no name, no email, no entrance.
> 
       You might want to add to that NO SPAM

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/1/02 11:49:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, chiara@io.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">My answer is no. No shirt, no shoes, no name, no email, no entrance.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;You might want to add to that NO SPAM
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 13:22:29 2002
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From: Margo@Margospatterns.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 10:51:40 -0800
Status: RO

At 02:25 PM 01/02/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>
>> I was under the impression a guy wrapped his parts in his shirt tail
>> and then put the wrapped package into the codpiece.
>
>That's what works for me (except it's the front of the shirt not the 
>back "tails").


Okay, this brings up a new set of questions.  Those who do not enjoy
explicit  discussions of anatomical detail may wish to move on...

(Move along, you lot.  Nothing here you want to see...)



In looking at the codpieces in Arnold, I'm confused as to their
functionality.  Yes, they look as if they could contain the genitals, but
the center front openings of the slops appear to meet behind them.  What's
happening here? Wouldn't things get...pinched?

Also, the one codpiece we see the inside of shows a nicely padded circular
bit. Oh heavens, there is no ladylike way to ask this question....does just
the penis go in the codpiece or is it somehow supposed to hold the scrotum
as well?  

And just how does one accomplish that wrapping the shirt tail around it
first bit?


Sorry for the graphic nature of this post, but the question's been bugging
me ever since I fiest saw the book. What that says about me, I don't think I
want to know....

Margo

(Blushing) 



Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 14:16:12 2002
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Date: Wed,  2 Jan 2002 13:28:11 -0600
Status: RO

>In looking at the codpieces in Arnold, I'm confused as to their
>functionality.  Yes, they look as if they could contain the genitals, but >the center front openings of the slops appear to meet behind them.  What's >happening here? Wouldn't things get...pinched?
>
>Also, the one codpiece we see the inside of shows a nicely padded circular >bit. Oh heavens, there is no ladylike way to ask this question....does just >the penis go in the codpiece or is it somehow supposed to hold the scrotum >as well?  


Okay, I don't have the right plumbing to really answer this with any real authority, but I have heard stories that that pocket behind the codpiece was just that, a pocket, to put stuff, like coins, etc, not one's uhm-person.  I have always understood that the codpiece was just a cover of the split in the slops, since early in the tudor period they weren't using buttons.

Alex
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 14:21:18 2002
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 14:49:09 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 1 Jan 2002 Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> Yes!  50 meters!  And my fiance' wants me to make him that costume!  The 
> price may just kill me.  Anyone know where I can get black guaze real cheap?  
> Also, it seemed to me that I'd have to make it shorter if he won't be 
> mounted, since there'd be cloth trailing all over the floor.  I also make 
> carved boiled leather armor, so he wants me to replicate the plate armor of 
> the King of the Nazgul.  (I do chainmail too sometimes.)  I'm wondering what 
> other small requests he'll be making of me...LOL

Sounds like it's time for him to learn to sew / make leather armor / make
chain mail!  ;D

-- Mara

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan  2 14:36:06 2002
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 15:05:02 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Will joining this community mean I get deluged with tons of spam?

-- Mara


On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> For those of you who missed the invitation for the
> communities the first time - here it is again.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 14:13:19 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO

Ya know. I opened my mail this morning and expected a lot of spam and got
none. BUT my alternate email address got spammed out of h - e - double
sticks! :(

-- 
Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
chiara@io.com

On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

Will joining this community mean I get deluged with tons of spam?

-- Mara


On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> For those of you who missed the invitation for the
> communities the first time - here it is again.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts - intimate details
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 20:31:14 +0000
Status: RO

Lady, you need to find you a man :-)

I'm more familiar with earlier codpieces than Elizabethan, but as far as
I'm aware, they don't really contain the genitals, they just hide the
gap.  In some cases, the hose really are open in a V at the centre
front, so the codpiece is the only thing preserving his modesty (thus
the need for shirt or underwear).  In other styles, the hose / slops are
closed and the codpiece is mostly decorative, maybe functional just
because the closure could gape when he moves.  The fancy, puffed,
elephant trunks etc are just advertising and are stuffed with padding,
not with ... him.

I think one of the reasons codpieces developed is that hose were tied to
the doublet.  You can't make a fully closed front without it crossing,
and then you would have to untie it from the doublet to open it, which
is a pain.  The codpiece is separately laced to the top of the hose, not
the doublet, so it's easy to let down.

I love the idea of wrapping it in his shirt tail, I have a picture of
wrapping it up like fish and chips!

JEan

In message <200201021851.KAA14387@artemis.directcon.net>,
Margo@Margospatterns.com writes
>At 02:25 PM 01/02/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>>
>>> I was under the impression a guy wrapped his parts in his shirt tail
>>> and then put the wrapped package into the codpiece.
>>
>>That's what works for me (except it's the front of the shirt not the 
>>back "tails").
>
>
>Okay, this brings up a new set of questions.  Those who do not enjoy
>explicit  discussions of anatomical detail may wish to move on...
>
>(Move along, you lot.  Nothing here you want to see...)
>
>
>
>In looking at the codpieces in Arnold, I'm confused as to their
>functionality.  Yes, they look as if they could contain the genitals, but
>the center front openings of the slops appear to meet behind them.  What's
>happening here? Wouldn't things get...pinched?
>
>Also, the one codpiece we see the inside of shows a nicely padded circular
>bit. Oh heavens, there is no ladylike way to ask this question....does just
>the penis go in the codpiece or is it somehow supposed to hold the scrotum
>as well?  
>
>And just how does one accomplish that wrapping the shirt tail around it
>first bit?
>
>
>Sorry for the graphic nature of this post, but the question's been bugging
>me ever since I fiest saw the book. What that says about me, I don't think I
>want to know....
>
>Margo
>
>(Blushing) 
>
>
>Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
>margospatterns.com

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wools and a little silk
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 12:42:45 -0800
Status: RO

I just added an unfinished elizabethan outfit that desperately needs a 
loving home.  I spent tons of time on it only to find it wont quite fit even 
without the extra 20lbs I've added since cutting it out.  I just want a 
little materials money for it since it isn't completely 
finished(undergarments) but I'm a compulsive and wont make one the right 
size with this floating in my shop.  I will take pics if anyone is 
interested.

Jennifer Sena
stant Designs
"mystash"


>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Wools and a little silk
>Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 21:25:58 -0600 (CST)
>
>
>I've just posted a bunch of fabric for sale to the h-cost marketplace
>list. If you missed out on the discussion of this, you can join at
><www.communityzero.com/hcostume/index.cfm>. Or, if you prefer, email me
>directly and I'll send you a list of what I have available.
>
>--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] masked ball costume
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:57:58 -0800
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Greetings,

For anybody in the Portland area, there is going to be a masked ball at =
the Art Museum.  Since I have never been so brave as to go there, what =
recommendations does anybody have for myself and my spouse to wear?  I =
probably would need to make these costumes myself (Value Village =
curtains here I come). 

Are these supposed to be masks that are affixed with elastic things or =
those carry-on-a-stick variety? 

ANY HELP? 

Thanks,

Sidne/
In the SCA, Estrelda

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Greetings, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>For anybody in the Portland area, there is going to =
be a
masked ball at the Art Museum.&nbsp; Since I have never been so brave as =
to go
there, what recommendations does anybody have for myself and my spouse =
to
wear?&nbsp; I probably would need to make these costumes myself (Value =
Village
curtains here I come).&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Are these supposed to be masks that are affixed with =
elastic
things or those carry-on-a-stick variety?&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>ANY HELP?&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Sidne/</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>In the SCA, Estrelda </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] masked ball costume
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 12:59:03 -0800
Status: RO

I heard that the ball was for members at the $150 level only... is that not
true or are you a big museum donor?  Or is this a different event-- please
tell.



> From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:57:58 -0800
> To: "historic costume" <h-costume@indra.com>,
> <KitchenPicnicTable@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] masked ball costume
> 
> Greetings, 
> 
> For anybody in the Portland area, there is going to be a masked ball at the
> Art Museum.  Since I have never been so brave as to go there, what
> recommendations does anybody have for myself and my spouse to wear?  I
> probably would need to make these costumes myself (Value Village curtains here
> I come).  
> 
> Are these supposed to be masks that are affixed with elastic things or those
> carry-on-a-stick variety?
> 
> ANY HELP?  
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Sidne/
> In the SCA, Estrelda
> 

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 16:22:33 -0500
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Portland Maine or Portland Oregon?  or another state yet?
I could go to Portland Maine.
Rowena
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Sidne Kneeland
  To: historic costume ; KitchenPicnicTable@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 3:57 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] masked ball costume


  Greetings,

  For anybody in the Portland area, there is going to be a masked ball =
at the Art Museum.  Since I have never been so brave as to go there, =
what recommendations does anybody have for myself and my spouse to wear? =
 I probably would need to make these costumes myself (Value Village =
curtains here I come). 

  Are these supposed to be masks that are affixed with elastic things or =
those carry-on-a-stick variety? 

  ANY HELP? 

  Thanks,

  Sidne/
  In the SCA, Estrelda

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<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Portland Maine or Portland =
Oregon?&nbsp; or another
state yet?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I could go to Portland =
Maine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rowena</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
  <A title=3Dskskaw@worldaccessnet.com
  href=3D"mailto:skskaw@worldaccessnet.com">Sidne Kneeland</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">historic costume</A> ; <A
  title=3DKitchenPicnicTable@yahoogroups.com
  =
href=3D"mailto:KitchenPicnicTable@yahoogroups.com">KitchenPicnicTable@yah=
oogroups.com</A>
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 02, =
2002 3:57
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] masked ball
  costume</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Greetings, </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>For anybody in the Portland area, there is going =
to be a
  masked ball at the Art Museum.&nbsp; Since I have never been so brave =
as to go
  there, what recommendations does anybody have for myself and my spouse =
to
  wear?&nbsp; I probably would need to make these costumes myself (Value =
Village
  curtains here I come).&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Are these supposed to be masks that are affixed =
with elastic
  things or those carry-on-a-stick variety?&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>ANY HELP?&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks, </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Sidne/</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>In the SCA, Estrelda =
</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01C193A9.AEB2E400--

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 21:43:25 -0000
Status: RO

Remember the mexican jacket I was looking for a pattern for ? Well I made it
! Unfortunatly my reched son has grown since I started it so I'm putting it
up at auction so I can buy more leather !!

Thought you might like to see it b4 it goes !

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1685307526

Mel

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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:38:37 +1100
Status: RO

the film
called "The Madness of King George" in the USA was originally called either
"King George III" or "The Madness of King George III" The US marketers left
off the III because they thought
Americans would be confused and think it referred to a sequel


Yep, the sequel fear is true. The film is based upon a play called The
Madness of King George III,

-C.

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:29:06 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

> Will joining this community mean I get deluged with tons of spam?

I haven't had a noticeable influx. Also, it's not a mailing list. I chose
the option to get a weekly update on what's been posted to the site, and I
read messages on the site.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] A different perspective on LOTR
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:22:42 -0500
Status: RO

Well, I have issues with blood and gore and ick.  I know that.  It cost
me $304.28 plus admission price to see "Raiders of the Lost Ark" as
that's what the ambulance cost after I passed out.  So...even though I'd
been warned, by people who know my tolerance and love me, I went off to
see LOTR yesterday.  I didn't pass out.  However, I left the theatre
twice to throw up, and continued doing so for about 2 hours after the
movie.  I can't tell you many costume details, because I was pretty
miserable and my head was buried in my husband's chest.  We were with a
group, and we drove another couple, so leaving wasn't in the picture,
darn it.  I'm HORRIBLY upset with myself.  I was dumb.    But I'd been
waiting *30* years for someone to do the movies right...
Somehow I don't think the 2 sequels are in my future.
Jeanne
hating that she's a wimp.
"English doesn't borrow from other languages - English follows other
languages down dark alleys, knocks them over and goes through their
pockets
for loose grammar." -- Anonymous


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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:49:35 +1300
Status: RO

> I didn't think Galadriel's dress was made of lace fabric. It was pretty
huge
> up there on the screen, and it looked like a sort of beaded gauze scarf
from
> India that I used to have and love. It hung like gauze, anyway, not like
> lace

You are right, it was not lace. I have no idea how anyone could think that.
What I did notice was the wide seam allowances as the light shone through
the fabric. I thought  the raised areas were beaded.
http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/1019
I'm certain that the fabric will be a silk too, we are talking about a
bloody expensive film;)

> I also wouldn't call it Pre-Raphaelite in style. It was much simpler even
> than that -- the P-Rs liked smocking and other details. Some of the other
> costumes, however, had that influence.

It looked like aethetic dress of the very early 20thC, it was influenced by
the PRB, but was a lot simpler:), and being of a lter era had other
influences too.

michaela

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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 19:13:04 -0600
Status: RO

Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:

>  Oh heavens, there is no ladylike way to ask this question....
>

Margo,

I'm obviously not a guy, but from the period literature, etc, I think we can
assume that the codpiece is purely decorative.  I mean, if a guy can remove an
orange from his codpiece at the theatre, I really, really doubt that there is
anything else squished into the codpiece with it.

-Magdalena

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 17:21:45 -0800
Status: RO


> P.S. How does one make a Tudor style gable hood? I've looked at a lot of pics
> and I'm totaly stumped.

In case she doesn't speak up, one of the best hood methods I've 
seen so far is done by Jean Waddie.

http://www.montgomerie.demon.co.uk/enghood/enghood1.htm

Have fun!


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-cost:  Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 19:32:51 -0600
Status: RO

Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:

> I've drafted a pattern based on the 1585-1600 shirt in the Museum
> of Costume at Bath, as shown in the Janet Arnold shirts and smocks article.
>

So, I'm curious.  Did you draft one with neck gussets, or without?  I've been
researching and playing with period shirts for a while now, and I've come to the
conclusion that I like ones with neck gussets much better.  They seem to have
been made both with and without, but I find that the neck gusset eliminates
pulling and makes gathering to the neckband much easier.  What's your
experience?  I'm recreating the blackworked shirt from the diagram right now.
The spot motifs are in QEW, so I've got the whole thing to scale even.  It's
been lots of fun.  ;>

>
> Can anyone steer me toward documentation for these practices, either written
> or (oh please!) pictorial?  I'd also be interested in hearing from men
> who've worn their shirts this way.
>

My SO finds it uncomfortable.  BTW, at least part of the reason for the length
is that shorter shirts pull out easily.  The first period length shirt I made
him was an experiment made from an old holey sheet, and now I have had to add
strips to all his other shirts, because he won't wear them anymore otherwise.
;>

I think I have a bit about how shirts were worn somewhere.  Now I just need to
dig through my stuff and find it....

In case you would like to see it, my half finished site is at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~magdlena/shirt/index.html

Now the Christmas is over, I hope to have it completed by the end of January.

-Magdalena


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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 10:43:13 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:29 AM -0500 1/2/02, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>The Color Marketing group is actually the largest color organization for
>people in the color related industries.

I'm thinking of forwarding that link to some linguists I know who 
work on the linguistics of color terms.  One of the interesting 
trends you see historically is that an increase in common color words 
in a language (that is, words that people think of as "ordinary" 
words for colors, rather than ad hoc descriptions) goes hand in hand 
with the "marketing" of a wider variety of stable and reproducible 
manufactured colors for objects.  One of the more significant 
"explosions" in color words in European languages seems to have 
paralleled the growth of a medieval cloth industry that involved 
regular, long-distance trade in dyed cloth.  It doesn't seem to have 
been so much the ability to reliably produce particular colors and 
shades, but the desire to be able to label these different colors and 
shades for commercial purposes.  In which case, the Color Marketing 
group is simply the ridiculous extreme of a long historic process.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 20:45:51 -0500
Status: RO


LOTR was indeed not a fictional account of Tolkien's experiences in WWII.
For one thing, he wasn't in WWII (fighting, anyway -- he was certainly in
England during WWII). And anyway, he wrote it and all his other related
stuff during most of his adult life. While any author's works can fairly be
said to be influenced by his/her experiences, LOTR isn't about WWII or WWI.
If it's "about" anything, it's simply making up a new epic and turning it
into a novel. The man knew every epic that ever was backwards and forwards,
all he had to do was pick up a pen and epic stuff just flowed out.

Personally, I love these books and I think the man was an amazing writer. I
am on tenterhooks to see how the movies handle the coming epic battles --
the Riders of Rohan and the seige of Mordor -- and particularly the deaths
of Theoden and Denethor. But if you don't like them, well, then, you don't
like them. Nothing we have to argue about, surely?

There's a lot of costume stuff to talk about from the movie, let's stick to
that.

Gail Finke


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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 20:45:51 -0500
Status: RO


LOTR was indeed not a fictional account of Tolkien's experiences in WWII.
For one thing, he wasn't in WWII (fighting, anyway -- he was certainly in
England during WWII). And anyway, he wrote it and all his other related
stuff during most of his adult life. While any author's works can fairly be
said to be influenced by his/her experiences, LOTR isn't about WWII or WWI.
If it's "about" anything, it's simply making up a new epic and turning it
into a novel. The man knew every epic that ever was backwards and forwards,
all he had to do was pick up a pen and epic stuff just flowed out.

Personally, I love these books and I think the man was an amazing writer. I
am on tenterhooks to see how the movies handle the coming epic battles --
the Riders of Rohan and the seige of Mordor -- and particularly the deaths
of Theoden and Denethor. But if you don't like them, well, then, you don't
like them. Nothing we have to argue about, surely?

There's a lot of costume stuff to talk about from the movie, let's stick to
that.

Gail Finke


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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 21:14:39 -0500
Status: RO

Hi,
 I found some information on Costumer's Manifesto: Hat's. Millinery and
Feathers Links at  http://www.costumes.org/pages/hats.htm  that might be
of some use to you. Once on that page go down past History to How To.
There I found two sites, the first was Tudor Gable: Illustrated Step by
Step Instructions and Step by step instructions for an English Hood
(Gabled Headress). Hope this is of some use.
 
  Lynne

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> P.S. How does one make a Tudor style gable hood? I've looked at a lot of pics
> and I'm totaly stumped.
>
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:21:27 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

[forgive me if the list is just posting slowly and
this turns up twice, but I think I forgot to hit
"send"]

This year I am going to create The Ultimate Singing
and Harping Dress -- a splendiferous, stupendous,
drop-dead, knock-out,
eat-your-hearts-out-you-pitiful-peasants dress!  Right
now I'm thinking in terms of Folkwears Afghani Nomad
Dress with the bodice in Hot Potatoes' burgundy and
spruce-green cross-dyed velvet (fabric looks burgundy,
but when hot-stamped, the design comes up green.)  I
would stamp it with Hot Potatoes' celtic design
stamps.  I would do the sleeves and the super-duper
extra full skirt in green -- maybe crepe, maybe rayon
-- not sure yet.  Here's the theory -- having such a
glorious gown to wear would surely inspire me to
practice more!!!

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 22:19:25 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings to all

Having returned from a long hiatus during which I missed you all
immensely, I of course immediately have a question.  There may be a
simple answer, and if so, I'm sure someone on this list will have it.

On the January page of the 2002 Medieval Woman calendar, please consider
the lady to the right (the one in the turban).  Examine, if you will,
the red laces at center front of her bodice.  One can see that the
bottom two seem to pass through the dark dots which might be interpreted
as lacing holes.  This makes sense to me as a single spiral lace holding
the dress together.  The top four, however, seem to lay horizontally
without passing through the dark dots and without the necessary
connecting diagonal of a spiral lace.  

Similarly, the lady on the left has numerous horizontal bars (and no
diagonals) center front.  Because of the gathered nature of her
overgarment (and the lack of diagonals), these wouldn't seem to be
laces--unless they're laces on the undergarment instead (which still
doesn't explain the lack of diagonals!).  For a similar phenomenon, go
to 
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/botticel/portrait/index.html
and click on "Portrait of a Young Woman" (the second one).   

What is happening here?  Are these just decorative?  Here for
example--go to
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/v/veronese/z_other/
and click on "Portrait of a Venetian Woman"--they look pretty vestigial,
but that's much later.  

I was just going to put up my new calendar, and look how much trouble I
got into!  Many thanks for any enlightenment that you can offer.


Melanie Schuessler


p.s. to Robin Netherton:  Check out February for a 16th century Flemish
Sybil in a sideless surcoat-esque garment.
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 23:01:16 -0600
Status: RO

I mis-remembered which city I wanted to talk about.  It wasn't Rivendell 
that looked like it was designed by Roland, it was Lothlorien.

Sandy

>>Rivendell was pretty even if it did look like Thomas Kinkade designed it.\\
>
>Well, actually it resembled Marc Roland's (a fantasy artist I've been 
>seeing at SF conventions since 1982) design more, but Kinkade is more 
>recognizable to most people, and pretty accurate also.  We've been going 
>to cons and buying art for 20 years or so, so just trying to keep artist's 
>names straight is hard sometimes.
>
>Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Kat and violence in LOTR
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 21:16:25 -0800
Status: RO

Read the "Letters" edited by Humphrey Carpenter.  I don't know if it's i nthere,
but his letters to Christopher during that war are there.  Doesn't seem to be
what he's consciously thinking of, anyway.  The war he went through himself was
WWI.

Far more to the point is his unhappiness over the industrialization of England
and the devastation of the countrisude.

However, as this is WAY off topic, let's just drop this, ok?


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margretta de Vries
> Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 10:26 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Kat and violence in LOTR
>
>
> You know, Tolkien himself said that these books were not, in fact, a
> metaphor for WWII.  I am not sure where the quote is to be found, but I will
> look.
>
> Margretta
> (delurking)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Azelana@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 1:37 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Kat and violence in LOTR
>
>
> In a message dated 12/31/01 2:34:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> << I agree with Margo, however. I didn't care much for it as it was
>  *way* too violent for me. I spent a good portion of the movie
>  (especially in the last part) with my head buried in my husband's
>  shoulder going "are they done fighting yet." However, since it is a
>  cultural icon, I will go see the other two. >>
>
> Oh dear!  There's going to be a war, ya know...  LOTR is a metaphorical
> account of Tolkien's own emotional experiences of WWII, written into a
> fantasy story.  I'm afraid it will get MUCH more violent.  Felt I should
> warn
> you.
>
> --Gillian
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: sorcerer's stone vs. philosopher's stone
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 21:27:20 -0800
Status: RO

Apparently that time they imagined we *would* get it, without needing a number,
as long as they said "King".  George III is probably the only King George most
Americans under 60 have ever heard of! :)


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 7:07 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: sorcerer's stone vs. philosopher's stone
>
>
> Alan Bennett's play is called "The madness of George III".  According
> to www.snopes2.com, the reason for the change of title for the film
> was not so much the oft-quoted "people would think it was a sequel",
> as a perceived need to add the word "King" for the benefit of
> American audiences.
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> >>> gailscott@eos.net 01/02/02 02:33pm >>>
>
> I heard a radio interviewer ask this very question. The answer is not that
> Americans are too stupid to know what the philosopher's stone is, but that
> the marketers thought "sorcerer" would sound more exciting to American kids
> than "philosopher." I have to agree that that's probably true, but I also
> imagine it's irrelevant, considering the worldwide popularity of the book.
>
> The same person being interviewed (I forget who it was) said that the film
> called "The Madness of King George" in the USA was originally called either
> "King George III" or "The Madness of King George III" -- British folks,
> please enlighten us. The US marketers left off the III because they thought
> Americans would be confused and think it referred to a sequel -- you know,
> coming after "The Madness of King George II."
>
> Gail Finke

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 21:28:11 -0800
Status: RO

LOL, just put "Teddy" in both fields.  We'll know who you are!


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Teddy
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 7:20 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question
>
>
>
> > > Even though, I started it, I consider it the list's community.  For
> > > those who used the list "invitation" to sign up they don't need my
> > > (the community administrator's) approval.  However, those who signed
> > > up through the site do require approval.
>
> I wouldn't be able to register at all as Surname is a required field
> and I don't have one.
>
> Teddy
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 23:37:18 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

Nope you shouldn't.  I've been part of various communities for over a year 
and have never received any spam from them ever.  They only email you 
should ever receive is if someone posts something to the site.  That's one 
of the reasons I like this set-up.  Besides, you can log in from anywhere.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 03:05 PM 1/2/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Will joining this community mean I get deluged with tons of spam?
>
>-- Mara

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question
  for the list
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 23:41:38 -0600
Status: RO

That is an excellent suggestion, so consider this past one January's. : 
)  Honestly I didn't even think of including the H-Costume email 
address.  Sorry.  I will remember that for next time.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:15 PM 1/1/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>It really is for h-cost members.  You should probably post an invitation 
>to the
>list (as you just did) on a monthly basis or so, because our population is
>constantly changing.
>
>When you returned the "rejection" notice, did you send the h-cost signup
>address? We don't want to lose good new members just because they're 
>knocking on
>the back door :)
>
>MaggiRos

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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 23:43:24 -0600
Status: RO

At 03:20 PM 1/2/2002 +0000, you wrote:

> > > Even though, I started it, I consider it the list's community.  For
> > > those who used the list "invitation" to sign up they don't need my
> > > (the community administrator's) approval.  However, those who signed
> > > up through the site do require approval.
>
>I wouldn't be able to register at all as Surname is a required field
>and I don't have one.
>
>Teddy

Teddy, Evilbunny for a surname was a good idea or put Teddy twice. : )  Or 
just make one up.  Unfortunately that isn't something I can control.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 23:42:38 -0600
Status: RO

You have been approved Lalah.  Unfortunately, that part means you have to 
wait until I log in again.  I try and do that at least once a day.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:31 PM 1/2/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Somehow I missed out on the original and didn't get signed up (at least I 
>don't think I did) and now they are making me go through the whole 
>application thing.  I did it, but have not been "approved" yet.  What a 
>bummer.  If I am not approved I will just forget it.  Does that tell you 
>how us "outsiders" feel?
>
>Lalah
>Never Give up, Never Surrender,

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 00:04:44 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

After yesterday's little discussion on the list, the main ground rule we 
have so far is:

No one will have their membership application accepted if they don't 
include a name and email address.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 23:12:34 -0800
Status: RO


>>Not too sure, having worn costumes made up by the same people, darts are
>>almost certainly out.
>>All the costumes I wore and saw in the costume rooms at PR were flatlined,
>>and used seams for shaping. We are talking from ancient fantasy(Xena) to
>>18thC fantasy(JoAT) to furturistic fantasy(Cleo). She did not like
darts:).
>>Bias covered cord was used to edge anything boned and fitted and yes,
>>polyboning ... <snip>

Michaela,

Thanks for the info.  Shaping seams is so much better, but out here
(LA/Hollywood) it's hard to convince folks that going the historic root, vs
darts, is hard sometimes.

Did you get a good look at the hobbit blouses???  How are the sleeves done
on the women???  What I could see, looked like elastic, at least in the
sleeves... but am curios.


For everyone looking for Hobbit pictures, I did find some of the "Hero
Hobbits", but lost the links.... tomorrow I'll send it.  BTW, for those not
up on the LOTR terms.  "Hero" was used for any of the detailed costumes for
close  up camera work. Each race had them.  These costumes had a lot more
details.

-Cat-

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From: Lynn Downward <lynnie1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kat and violence in LOTR
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 00:21:23 -0800
Status: RO

Gillian wrote:
Oh dear!  There's going to be a war, ya know...  LOTR is a metaphorical
account of Tolkien's own emotional experiences of WWII, written into a
fantasy story.  I'm afraid it will get MUCH more violent.  Felt I should warn
you.

No it isn't metaphore, and Tolkien says so very clearly.  I've been reading it
recently in a one-volume reprint I bought myself for Christmas 2000 (Houghton
Mifflin, ISBN 0-395-97468-2).  I don't mean to be argumentative, but here are his
own words.

In the forward to the second edition, first published in October 1965, (he
deleted the first forward), Professor Tolkien wrote, "As for any inner meaning or
'message', it has in the intention of the author none.  It is neither allegorical
nor topical . . . The crucial chapter, 'The Shadow of the Past', is one of the
oldest parts of the tale.  It was written long before the foreshadow of 1939 had
yet become a threat of inevitable disaster, and from that point the story would
have developed along essentially the same lines, if that disaster had been
averted.  Its sources are things long before in mind, or in some cases already
written, and little or nothing in it was modified by the war that began in 1939
or its sequels."  Tolkein goes on to say that if the book had followed WWII, the
Ring would have been used agains Sauron "not annihilated but enslaved, and
Barad-dur would not have been destroyed but occupied."  He goes on for a couple
more paragraphs on this line, but then says that an author cannot write and be
completely separated from the world around him.  He reminds his readers that he
was caught up in WWI and that was just as bad as WWII for many people; all but
one of his close friends were dead by 1918.  However, he says that the book was
already in his mind before there were even threats of another war.

LynnD
Having read it first at the tender age of 11 or12
in (oh my God) 1963-44

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/31/01 2:34:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> << I agree with Margo, however. I didn't care much for it as it was
>  *way* too violent for me. I spent a good portion of the movie
>  (especially in the last part) with my head buried in my husband's
>  shoulder going "are they done fighting yet." However, since it is a
>  cultural icon, I will go see the other two. >>
>
>
>
> --Gillian

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 00:25:32 -0800
Status: RO

I have to agree that that's probably true, but I also
>imagine it's irrelevant, considering the worldwide popularity of the book.

I just hears someone say that there was an exit poll of grade-school-age
children after some showing of Harry Potter, and a few of the interviewees
said they liked it but the book was better!

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 01:29:16 -0800
Status: RO

>> I was under the impression a guy wrapped his parts in his shirt tail
>> and then put the wrapped package into the codpiece.
>
>That's what works for me (except it's the front of the shirt not the 
>back "tails").

'scuse me for being a Yank, but I thought the front and back were both
tails, hence the plural.  But then, my plumbing is different than yours is. 

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 00:32:19 -0800
Status: RO

>My interest is very broad over the entire culture.  My husband has traveled
>all over Egypt.  For our 30 wedding anniversary, we are planning to stay in
>Egypt for a month.  Since we are only at our 23rd year presently, we have a
>lot of time for planning.

Go for it!  I wish I had the means to go there, and about 30 other ethnic
places (many of which are not safe for those of us with blue eyes).

>Did you see the four hour special on A&E last night about the pharaohs?

No TV, so I missed it.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 01:29:48 -0800
Status: RO

>In looking at the codpieces in Arnold, I'm confused as to their
>functionality.  Yes, they look as if they could contain the genitals,

I heard two (unsubstantiated) stories about what actually went into
late-period codpieces like those, and it was nothing anatomical.  One was
the story of some man producing an orange from his codpiece and offering it
to a lady.  The other was of different man hiding his coins in there, and
still having his 'pocket' picked. 

-snip-

>Okay, I don't have the right plumbing to really answer this with any real 
>authority, but I have heard stories that that pocket behind the codpiece was 
>just that, a pocket, to put stuff, like coins, etc, not one's uhm-person.  I 
>have always understood that the codpiece was just a cover of the split in 
>the slops, since early in the tudor period they weren't using buttons.

Earlier flap-style codpiece-things were probably just to cover the
center-front gap between the two legs of the hose.  Later shaped ones could
contain anatomy, my guess being after it was wrapped in a shirt tail to
help contain it.  Later garments, like the ones in Janet Arnold, actually
lace together behind the codpiece, precluding the codpiece's use for
containing anatomy.  But these are hollow, so something else could be put
in there. 

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 01:29:28 -0800
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>I've also seen a list of clothing issued to English soldiers at this period, 
>including shirts but not drawers, which made me wonder idly whether the 
>common man perhaps didn't wear them? 

I think this is true (with long shirt tails, you don't need them).  But
then again, many men today don't wear them ;) 

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colors 2002 Predictions
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:33:17 +0100
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Heather,

You wrote:
  One of the more significant
  "explosions" in color words in European languages seems to have
  paralleled the growth of a medieval cloth industry that involved
  regular, long-distance trade in dyed cloth.  It doesn't seem to have
  been so much the ability to reliably produce particular colors and
  shades, but the desire to be able to label these different colors and
  shades for commercial purposes. 

  That's a very interesting obseravtion. Do you know of any literature =
about this? Up to now (as you know I 'do' 1250-1350) I have not found =
many colour names in 'my' period, just (in translation) red, darkred or =
carmine, blue and darkblue (perse), 'brun' ( a problem colour in the way =
of describing it properly), green, grey, black, uncoloured and mixed, =
and very rarely purple. No yellow to speak off.

  In which case, the Color Marketing
  group is simply the ridiculous extreme of a long historic process.

  I would stress the word 'rediculous'. The whole lot reminds me of my =
education and years in advertising. Best soonest forgotten.


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl


------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C19442.0EC309E0
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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Heather,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>One of the more significant <BR>"explosions" in color words in =
European
  languages seems to have <BR>paralleled the growth of a medieval cloth =
industry
  that involved <BR>regular, long-distance trade in dyed cloth.&nbsp; It =
doesn't
  seem to have <BR>been so much the ability to reliably produce =
particular
  colors and <BR>shades, but the desire to be able to label these =
different
  colors and <BR>shades for commercial purposes.&nbsp; </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>That's a very interesting obseravtion. Do you know of any =
literature
  about this? Up to now (as you know I 'do' 1250-1350) I have not found =
many
  colour names in 'my' period, just (in translation) red, darkred or =
carmine,
  blue and darkblue (perse), 'brun' ( a problem colour in the way of =
describing
  it properly), green, grey, black, uncoloured and mixed, and very =
rarely
  purple. No yellow to speak off.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>In which case, the Color Marketing <BR>group is simply the =
ridiculous
  extreme of a long historic process.<BR><BR>I would stress the word
  'rediculous'. The whole lot reminds me of my education and years in
  advertising. Best soonest forgotten.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] masked ball costume
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 02:14:50 -0800
Status: RO

I could go to Portland OR!!  Is there a specific theme? Historic period?  It 
sounds like a blast.

Jennifer


>From: "Rowena" <sleepyunicorn@citlink.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] masked ball costume
>Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 16:22:33 -0500
>
>Portland Maine or Portland Oregon?  or another state yet?
>I could go to Portland Maine.
>Rowena
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Sidne Kneeland
>   To: historic costume ; KitchenPicnicTable@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 3:57 PM
>   Subject: [h-cost] masked ball costume
>
>
>   Greetings,
>
>   For anybody in the Portland area, there is going to be a masked ball at 
>the Art Museum.  Since I have never been so brave as to go there, what 
>recommendations does anybody have for myself and my spouse to wear?  I 
>probably would need to make these costumes myself (Value Village curtains 
>here I come).
>
>   Are these supposed to be masks that are affixed with elastic things or 
>those carry-on-a-stick variety?
>
>   ANY HELP?
>
>   Thanks,
>
>   Sidne/
>   In the SCA, Estrelda
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Re:LOTR
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 10:33:22 +0000 (GMT)
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> I didn't think Galadriel's dress was made of lace fabric. It was
> pretty huge up there on the screen, and it looked like a sort of
> beaded gauze scarf from India that I used to have and love. It hung
> like gauze, anyway, not like lace.

It sure looked like it to me.  Actually, more like net-curtain fabric with 
sparkles (sequins or beads, I couldn't tell) sewn all over.... 
<shudder>

> I enjoyed the costumes very much, even if I did't care for them all
> personally. What a nice job everyone did.

Absolutely.  As I say, Galadriel'sfrock was the only jarring moment 
in the film for me and for the most part (appart from really liking the 
hobbit-girl look) The costumes went un-noticed in the general 
enjoyment of the film anyway.

Teddy
 

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 10:45:14 +0000
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Gwyn Carnegie wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> Ever looked for a deep blue shirt in what appears to be a sea of the >same french blue shirt? Ever walked through a mall looking for a certain >item in a certain color and noticed that every seems to have the variations >on the same garment but not in the color you wanted?

Yes, it seems like every time I decide I need a garment of a particular colour, that shade is unobtainable that year. This season I wanted a top in a dark oxblood red (to go with a print skirt I have) and all the reds are bright, even one calling itself "burnt red"!
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 11:07:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > I wouldn't be able to register at all as Surname is a required field
> > and I don't have one.
> 
> Maybe, for the purposes of the list, you could use Evilbunny?

<snortle>  I'd really rather not.

I have a long and involved set of issues with "petty officialdom" 
requring Surnames, when they aren't a legal requirement, and 
insisting on adding titles (Mr, Mrs, Mis, Ms etc) to names when they 
aren't actually *part* of anybody's name but an outmoded and 
completely unnecessary form of address that people should have 
the *choice* of attaching to their names or not.  The advent of 
widespread computer systems has made the whole thing worse.  
iv'e had to threaten places like banks and my employer with legal 
action under Data Protection laws for knowingly keeping inaccurate 
personal information on their databases because their systems 
had been set up with Surname and Title as mandatory fields that 
couldn't be left blank so they had me listed as Mr T. Teddy.

<steps down, folds up handy portable soap-box and wanders off 
behind the piles of unfinished sewing projects>

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 11:34:46 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> In looking at the codpieces in Arnold, I'm confused as to their
> functionality.  Yes, they look as if they could contain the
> genitals, but the center front openings of the slops appear to meet
> behind them. What's happening here? Wouldn't things get...pinched? 

Speaking form the 15th century perspective here (and it shouldn't 
be that much digfferent for 16th century, on the assumption that the 
inner layers of the trunk-hose aren't as baggy as the outer so the 
genetalia wouldn't just hang inside the trunks in the way it would in 
modern boxer shorts).... most of my fitted/sewn hose have a 
similar arrangement (the codpieces just aren't shaped/padded like 
the 16th century ones) and the edges of the front openings part 
around the base of the genitals and don't pinch at all.
 
> Also, the one codpiece we see the inside of shows a nicely padded
> circular bit. Oh heavens, there is no ladylike way to ask this
> question....does just the penis go in the codpiece or is it somehow
> supposed to hold the scrotum as well?  

Provided the space inside the codpiece is big enough, it quite 
comfortably holds both.

> And just how does one accomplish that wrapping the shirt tail around
> it first bit?

Speaking for myself... I sort of pouch the bottom of the shirt front so 
that the bottom edge is nestled behind (underneath and up both 
sides of) the scrotum and the resultant "package" or pouchfull sits 
comfortably inside the codpiece and neatly does away with the 
worry of flashing the world if the codpiece should come unfastened. 
 
I hope this is of some help (and the sys-admin people here at work 
have no problems with the content...<g>)

Teddy


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:LOTR - Galadriel's frock.
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 11:47:21 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> You are right, it was not lace. I have no idea how anyone could think
> that. What I did notice was the wide seam allowances as the light
> shone through the fabric. I thought  the raised areas were beaded.
> http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/1019 I'm certain that
> the fabric will be a silk too, we are talking about a bloody expensive
> film;)

What it's actually made of is ireelevant.  It *looks* like the "lace" 
fabric that started appearing on market stalls (here at least) in the 
80s, some of which comes pre-sequinned.  I once bought some of 
the black version (un-sequinned) to make a "goth" outfit for my 
cousin... but that wasn't meant to look in any way classy.

The stuff used in the film might be pure silk and hand beaded, for 
all I know,  but it still looks like cheap tacky 1980's nylon lace with 
sparkly bits added to me.

Teddy.
 


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts - II
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 12:02:12 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >That's what works for me (except it's the front of the shirt not the
> >back "tails").
> 
> 'scuse me for being a Yank, but I thought the front and back were both
> tails, hence the plural.  But then, my plumbing is different than
> yours is. 

<laugh!>  You may well be right, techinically, Kayta.  I have no idea. 
 All I know is that if someone mentions "shirt-tails" I think of the bit 
that hangs doen at the *back* not the front.

Teddy
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 community
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 08:54:18 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> After yesterday's little discussion on the list, the main ground rule
> we have so far is:
> 
> No one will have their membership application accepted if they don't
> include a name and email address.
> 
> Does anyone have any other suggestions?

They have to be on h-cost.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Woman calendar mystery
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:25:18 -0600 (CST)
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On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> On the January page of the 2002 Medieval Woman calendar, please
> consider the lady to the right (the one in the turban).  Examine, if
> you will, the red laces at center front of her bodice.  One can see
> that the bottom two seem to pass through the dark dots which might be
> interpreted as lacing holes.  This makes sense to me as a single
> spiral lace holding the dress together.  The top four, however, seem
> to lay horizontally without passing through the dark dots and without
> the necessary connecting diagonal of a spiral lace.
> 
> Similarly, the lady on the left has numerous horizontal bars (and no
> diagonals) center front.  Because of the gathered nature of her
> overgarment (and the lack of diagonals), these wouldn't seem to be
> laces--unless they're laces on the undergarment instead (which still
> doesn't explain the lack of diagonals!).  For a similar phenomenon, go
> to http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/botticel/portrait/index.html and
> click on "Portrait of a Young Woman" (the second one).
> 
> What is happening here?  Are these just decorative?

I noticed the same thing last week when I put up my calendar, and decided
that these are probably just a poor rendering. One of the things I'm
wondering is how much the image has been enlarged. Sometimes in
reproductions you get a very large picture of something that was extremely
small to begin with. On my wall I have a National Gallery poster of a
Raphael angel who's reprinted in at least 3/4 life-size, but in the
original, she's all of five or six inches tall. That explains some
significant losses in costume details -- e.g. a string of beads with
spaces in between and no connecting cord. In the original, the beads look
connected because the spaces are so tiny as to be invisible (and the cord
would have been impossible to paint).

In this case, on the turbaned lady, I think we do have an impression of
the diagonals, but very sketchy and not accurately placed: they appear as
shadowy pale red horizontal lines in the white space between the dominant
laces. As for the fact they don't go through the holes, either it's a
mistake, or there's a convention of putting lacing rings on the inside
behind decorative dots on the edging. Again, a significant enlargement
would explain this loss of accuracy in detail. Ditto for the lady in the
back.

Alternatively, there is a lacing method that produces only horizontals,
and it may explain the occasional appearance of the horizontal-row lacings
(which seem to me to be primarily a German feature and occasionally
Burgundian, but I haven't examined this issue in detail). The lacing
method uses hooks or rings at the edge or just inside the inside edge of
the fabric. You lace straight across, then (on the inside) go up one, then
lace back across, then go up one, and so on. I've never done this myself,
and it would seem to me that this is not something that could take a lot
of stress, but would be sufficient to keep an overdress lying flat and
organized.

Or the "laces" may be sewn in for decorative effect -- vestigial, as you
suggest. This ornamentation does show up eventually, I think.

But I wouldn't read a whole lot into the use of laces with a gathered
overgarment. This is an altarpiece, and these are almost certainly
Biblical/historial figures. In this period, I've found loads of fanciful
dresses on such characters that combine elements of "fantasy" or
"historical" dress with modern fashionable details, often in physically
incompatible ways. (Melanie, if you saw my sideless surcote lecture, you
might remember an image of a saint in a sideless surcote that had the
currently fashionable 15th-century V-neck, complete with black inset
panel, grafted into it.)

> p.s. to Robin Netherton:  Check out February for a 16th century
> Flemish Sybil in a sideless surcoat-esque garment.

Yes, I've got her for my collection. In fact, I think I got her "live" at
the Cluny, but I still haven't sorted all my tapestry slides (at least 200
of them) that I took in Paris a year ago. I am despairing of figuring out
the titles/dates for all those images.

--Robin


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: LOTR
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:14:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

The LOTR was written by Tolkein as part of what he saw
as giving back to England part of her native folklore,
on which alot of the book is written.  To get a better
view of this you should read the Silmarillion which is
truely his masterpeice.  It is a collection of
stories, myths etc from middle earth.  Tolkein
borrowed from Anglo-Saxon myths, and elvish is in part
based on Anglo Saxon.  Not much to do with wars etc!

Rachel



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From: sustre@pixelations.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Anglo-Saxon burials
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:12:38 -0500
Status: RO

Mel said:

>I make early Anglo Saxon brooches see www.pastclass.com

Nice stuff! For myself, I'm having a blast making various pieces. If 
any turn out particularly well, I might make a few extra for sale 
myself, especially since we seem to be interested in different pieces.

Good luck with yours!

-Amanda
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From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Woman calendar mystery
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:15:05 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO

I also wondered about this picture but for other reasons. That black thing
that she is wearing underneath almost looks like a harness of some sort.

I took the red lacings to be a mistake honestly and did not really go past
that thought.

The lady in the back looks more like she was sewn into her over bodice
than anything. That is what it looks like when I sew the lacings in front
of my bodice cause I did not have the time to make the rings. :)

Not the answer your looking for I know, you want some kind of
documentation to explain what this is. The best that I can offer is a
lady's email address here in Texas that specilizes in this artist
rendering of costumes and see if she has an idea. Let me know privately.

-- 
Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
chiara@io.com


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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:01:29 -0800
Status: RO


> On the January page of the 2002 Medieval Woman calendar, please consider
> the lady to the right (the one in the turban).  Examine, if you will,
> the red laces at center front of her bodice.  One can see that the
> bottom two seem to pass through the dark dots which might be interpreted
> as lacing holes.  This makes sense to me as a single spiral lace holding
> the dress together.  The top four, however, seem to lay horizontally
> without passing through the dark dots and without the necessary
> connecting diagonal of a spiral lace. 

The diagonals are on the back side of the lacings. It was actually a 
very common lacing pattern.

Also, chemises and the like are often laced. You can see this quite 
well in some of the courtesan's chemises in Lynn Lawner's book on 
courtesans. 

Fun calendar, eh! (One of my students has decided that she gets 
to give me the calendar for Christmas every year. Hey, I'm not 
going to complain!)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: Katie <nejma@tds.net>
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 10:37:36 -0600
Status: RO

I went wandering around that site and found this..

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/zgothic/gothic/2/index.html

look at the "Wise Virgins" and note the pleating/gathering 
of fabric going from under the arm to the waist.  

Do you think this is the construction of the garment??

Katie

Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> 
> Greetings to all
> 
> Having returned from a long hiatus during which I missed you all
> immensely, I of course immediately have a question.  There may be a
> simple answer, and if so, I'm sure someone on this list will have it.
> 
> On the January page of the 2002 Medieval Woman calendar, please consider
> the lady to the right (the one in the turban).  Examine, if you will,
> the red laces at center front of her bodice.  One can see that the
> bottom two seem to pass through the dark dots which might be interpreted
> as lacing holes.  This makes sense to me as a single spiral lace holding
> the dress together.  The top four, however, seem to lay horizontally
> without passing through the dark dots and without the necessary
> connecting diagonal of a spiral lace.
> 
> Similarly, the lady on the left has numerous horizontal bars (and no
> diagonals) center front.  Because of the gathered nature of her
> overgarment (and the lack of diagonals), these wouldn't seem to be
> laces--unless they're laces on the undergarment instead (which still
> doesn't explain the lack of diagonals!).  For a similar phenomenon, go
> to
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/botticel/portrait/index.html
> and click on "Portrait of a Young Woman" (the second one).
> 
> What is happening here?  Are these just decorative?  Here for
> example--go to
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/v/veronese/z_other/
> and click on "Portrait of a Venetian Woman"--they look pretty vestigial,
> but that's much later.
> 
> I was just going to put up my new calendar, and look how much trouble I
> got into!  Many thanks for any enlightenment that you can offer.
> 
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
> p.s. to Robin Netherton:  Check out February for a 16th century Flemish
> Sybil in a sideless surcoat-esque garment.
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--part1_c8.20300c29.29660185_boundary
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       It is a good looking jacket.  Too bad kids tend to keep on growing and 
growing and growing.  Not just kids either -- it is a good thing I have just 
T-tunics and sideless surcoats in my garb wardrobe right now, because I sure 
overindulged over the holidays.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



--part1_c8.20300c29.29660185_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;It is a good looking jacket. &nbsp;Too bad kids tend to keep on growing and growing and growing. &nbsp;Not just kids either -- it is a good thing I have just T-tunics and sideless surcoats in my garb wardrobe right now, because I sure overindulged over the holidays. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_c8.20300c29.29660185_boundary--
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 11:15:56 -0600
Status: RO

Isn't that a bliaut??  

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I will be attending a "medieval wedding" this summer. (I don't think it'll
> be what *I* could call medieval, but hey, it's a good occasion to wear a
> costume ;-)
> 
> So, I found this dress in Peacock. I know he's not a very good reference for
> periodness, but I love the dress (not the hat, I'll wear a veil and a
> circlet with flowers on my head)
> You can see it here.
> http://www.geocities.com/audreybmorin/Varia/dress.jpg
> 
> I don't mind the dress not being 100% accurate, but if I can make it more
> period without making apparent alterations, I'd be happy. So now with my
> questions.
> 
> Would you make it with underarm gussets? It is tight-fitting so could it be
> laced on the sides? I'm guessing it would probably be made with gores at the
> sides and back starting at hip level, but would you also put a gore in
> front? How do I obtain the right shape for the train? What shape would you
> make the sleeves?
> 
> Are there any other things you can think of that would help me construct the
> dress? I've made a bunch of t-tunics already with different widths and
> shapes so making a dress without a pattern doesn't really scare me, but
> there are things like lacing or sleeves that I have never done yet.
> 
> I'm thinking green silk. Crepe maybe, as it falls nicely and is not too
> shiny. Any other ideas for what kind of silk I could use? White linen
> underdress, with hidden lacing on the forearm so it's tight-fitting. It will
> be long enough that I'm not worried about shoes, so that's not a problem.
> I'll try to find false hair to make a very long braid out of and hide the
> attachment point under the veil, my hair is way too short to do anything
> with.
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> Alix
> 
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From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: LOTR
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:50:48 -0800
Status: RO

My husband believes that a lot of LOTR was based on Nordic mythology;
afterall, there is Gandalf (a lot like Odin), elves, dwarves and "little
people" (hobbits).  I can see the similarity, at least in the races of
characters that were used.



                        ,%%%,
Joan Broneske       --==% `%%%,
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                        \_/\ @%%,
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: LOTR


>
> LOTR was indeed not a fictional account of Tolkien's experiences in WWII.
> For one thing, he wasn't in WWII (fighting, anyway -- he was certainly in
> England during WWII). And anyway, he wrote it and all his other related
> stuff during most of his adult life. While any author's works can fairly
be
> said to be influenced by his/her experiences, LOTR isn't about WWII or
WWI.
> If it's "about" anything, it's simply making up a new epic and turning it
> into a novel. The man knew every epic that ever was backwards and
forwards,
> all he had to do was pick up a pen and epic stuff just flowed out.
>
> Personally, I love these books and I think the man was an amazing writer.
I
> am on tenterhooks to see how the movies handle the coming epic battles --
> the Riders of Rohan and the seige of Mordor -- and particularly the deaths
> of Theoden and Denethor. But if you don't like them, well, then, you don't
> like them. Nothing we have to argue about, surely?
>
> There's a lot of costume stuff to talk about from the movie, let's stick
to
> that.
>
> Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: color marketing group
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 20:10:16 -0500
Status: RO



The Color Marketing Group is, in my opinion, a giant scam. They "forecast"
colors for the coming year, colors which they also happen to make available
to paying customers. Everyone has to use them, because if you don't, then
your stuff doesn't match everyone else's stuff. Your carpet lines don't
match the current upholstery fabrics, for instance, or your car upholstery
vinyl doesn't match the available car paint colors. And they're not cheap!

Yes, I have a rather violent opinion of them, and yes, it is an informed
opinion. I have worked in the graphic design field for more than a decade,
and I have interviewed "forecasters" and gone to seminars they put on. IMHO,
it's a terrible trick!

Gail Finke

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan  3 19:52:00 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Loonie King George the Threeth
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:58:44 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:38 AM +1100 1/3/02, Christopher Ballis wrote:
>the film
>called "The Madness of King George" in the USA was originally called either
>"King George III" or "The Madness of King George III" The US marketers left
>off the III because they thought
>Americans would be confused and think it referred to a sequel
>
>
>Yep, the sequel fear is true. The film is based upon a play called The
>Madness of King George III,
>

I think that that interpretation may be more a snide and humorous 
joke on American pop culture than a likely motivation for the name 
change.  I'd see it as simply a cultural context thing: for a British 
audience, there were lots of Kings George running around, and even 
the reference to madness might not immediately pin it down.  But for 
a US audience, there is one extremely salient King George -- if you 
say "King George" to a USAn with any historical knowledge at all, 
they will first and foremost think of the George on the throne during 
our Revolutionary War.  So the "III" part is superfluous for 
identification.  (Now, if you wanted to make a movie for a US 
audience about one of the _other_ Kings George, you might need to 
include numbers or some other identification.)

If US audiences were really that incapable of dealing with movies 
with numbers in the title, we would have had problems with "Henry V" 
and "Malcolm X".  (And, yes, jokes were made about people 
interpreting both those titles as involving sequel numbers ... but 
they were _jokes_, not actual logistical problems.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan  3 19:52:49 2002
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 19:39:53 -0500
Status: RO

Tonight on A&E is showing the 1st part of the movie Victoria and Albert.
The 2nd part airs Friday night.  On the east coast of the US, the movie
begins at 9 PM and an encore at 1AM.  This movie originally aired a few
months ago.  I really enjoyed it.  For more information on this show go to
http://www.aande.com/tv/shows/victoria/

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Re:LOTR - Calendar!
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 19:52:40 -0500
Status: RO

I just ordered the daily calendar for LoTR.  has anyone seen it?  The info
says:
"The Lord of the Rings" Daily Boxed Calendar
Based on J.R.R. Tolkien's classic tale of good and evil, this 2002 daily
boxed calendar showcases famous characters and settings from the
much-heralded new movie. The sturdy plastic frame can rest flat or be
propped up for easy viewing. The Lord of the Rings, The Fellowship of the
Ring and the characters and the places therein: Copyright The Saul Zaentz
Company d/b/a Tolkien Enterprises under license to New Line Productions,
Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Daily boxed calendar, 6 1/4" x 5 1/4"
ISBN #4460

They have datebooks, journals, as well as a "locker" calendar.
It is at http://www.cedco.com - anyone ever here of them or the calendar?
Rowena ni Dhonnchaidh


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The H-Costume swap & sell community - a question for the list
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:54:55 EST
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No problem.  I have spent my fabric allowance and then some at Fabric.com and 
will have to just wait a while before drooling over any more fabric.  Thanks,

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>No problem. &nbsp;I have spent my fabric allowance and then some at Fabric.com and will have to just wait a while before drooling over any more fabric. &nbsp;Thanks,
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 17:14:57 -0500
Status: RO

It sounds lovely! And what a great resolution!

Does Hot Potatoes have an online site? The velvet sounds yummy, and 
I'd love to look at the stamps....

It was my impression that hot-stamping washes out and needs to be 
re-done- am I wrong about that?

Anyway, it sounds marvellous! I've made the Nomad Dress myself a few 
times, and it's very comfortable and easy to move in, so I think it's 
a great choice.

-Amanda
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: masked ball costume
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:58:14 -0800
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Greetings,

Yes, I just looked.  It's the masked Parisian Cabaret for Young at Art =
members.  There an exhibition preview with reception ($100 per person)_ =
or the ball and reception ($300 per person). 

Here is a link for the Young at Art one: 
http://www.pam.org/museum%20plaza/calendar%20and%20events/calendar%20and%=
20events.html

I received a card with an elaborate mask on it and it said 'Le Bal =
Masque.'  I did see the admission prices but didn't pay much attention.  =
I wondered what a _real_ masked ball was like, since they seem to have =
them at the Art Museum yearly.   We are members, as a family, but not =
THAT much members. 

Sidne/
Estrelda in the SCA

  If it's the masked Parisian Cabaret you are speaking of, it is just a =
formal, not costumed and the masks are pretty much whatever you want!

  If you talking about another one, let me know!

  -Giliana



------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C19467.11EEF5A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Greetings, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Yes, I just looked.&nbsp; It's the masked Parisian =
Cabaret for
Young at Art members.&nbsp; There&nbsp;an exhibition preview with =
reception
($100 per person)_ or the ball and reception ($300 per person).&nbsp;
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Here is a link for the Young at Art one:&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><A
href=3D"http://www.pam.org/museum%20plaza/calendar%20and%20events/calenda=
r%20and%20events.html">http://www.pam.org/museum%20plaza/calendar%20and%2=
0events/calendar%20and%20events.html</A></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I received a card with an elaborate mask on it and =
it said 'Le
Bal Masque.'&nbsp; I did see the admission prices but didn't pay much
attention.&nbsp; I wondered what a _real_ masked ball was like, since =
they seem
to have them at the Art Museum yearly.&nbsp;&nbsp; We are members, as a =
family,
but not THAT much members.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Sidne/</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Estrelda in the SCA </FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV>If it's the masked =
Parisian Cabaret
  you are speaking of, it is just a formal, not costumed and the masks =
are
  pretty much whatever you want!<BR><BR>If you talking about another =
one, let me
  know!<BR><BR>-Giliana<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C19467.11EEF5A0--

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 18:21:06 -0600
Status: RO

At 09:25 AM 1/3/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Alternatively, there is a lacing method that produces only horizontals,
>and it may explain the occasional appearance of the horizontal-row lacings
>(which seem to me to be primarily a German feature and occasionally
>Burgundian, but I haven't examined this issue in detail). The lacing
>method uses hooks or rings at the edge or just inside the inside edge of
>the fabric. You lace straight across, then (on the inside) go up one, then
>lace back across, then go up one, and so on. I've never done this myself,
>and it would seem to me that this is not something that could take a lot
>of stress, but would be sufficient to keep an overdress lying flat and
>organized.

Actually, when I was in the military we used to lace our boots with the 
straight across lacing and never had any problems with it.  I've also seen 
it done on Italian gowns effective.  It was nick-named "ladder lacing" on 
some email lists.  This page has a reasonable explanation of one way of 
doing it.  http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/lacing/lacing.html

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A different perspective on LOTR
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:57:42 -0800
Status: RO

I mean no offense or to be insensitive, but it looks like you have more than
issues with "gore and ick"!  I can't stand horror or hacker/slasher movies,
they give me nightmares, but "Raiders of the Lost Ark" causing you to have
to go to the hospital and "LOTR" making you throw up?  My Goodness!  I don't
know how I would survive life, if I was that sensitive!



                        ,%%%,
Joan Broneske       --==% `%%%,
unicorn@softcom.net     |' )`%%,
                        \_/\ @%%,
                          __@@" %%%--"""-.%,
                        /`__|             \%%
                        \\  \   /   |     /'%,
                         \]  | /----'.   < `%,
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                             ||       ///`
                             /(      //(


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeanne Harney" <jeanne@parrotfantasy.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: [h-cost] A different perspective on LOTR


> Well, I have issues with blood and gore and ick.  I know that.  It cost
> me $304.28 plus admission price to see "Raiders of the Lost Ark" as
> that's what the ambulance cost after I passed out.  So...even though I'd
> been warned, by people who know my tolerance and love me, I went off to
> see LOTR yesterday.  I didn't pass out.  However, I left the theatre
> twice to throw up, and continued doing so for about 2 hours after the
> movie.  I can't tell you many costume details, because I was pretty
> miserable and my head was buried in my husband's chest.  We were with a
> group, and we drove another couple, so leaving wasn't in the picture,
> darn it.  I'm HORRIBLY upset with myself.  I was dumb.    But I'd been
> waiting *30* years for someone to do the movies right...
> Somehow I don't think the 2 sequels are in my future.
> Jeanne
> hating that she's a wimp.
> "English doesn't borrow from other languages - English follows other
> languages down dark alleys, knocks them over and goes through their
> pockets
> for loose grammar." -- Anonymous
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 21:04:13 +0100
Status: RO

Hello
Today i had a meting with another h-costume listmember, my very first 
meting with another costume friend: Barbara Maren Winkler from Berlin, 
Germany.
She had asked me some time ago, if i would like to met her if she came 
to Copenhagen.
That she did, and we met at the railroad station. She broaght with her 
her little daughter, very charming and patiente little girl. We went to 
a cafe and had coffe, and we had a very long chat talking lace, 
embroidery and costume. Barbara showed me some costumes she had made and 
whe also had taken photos of a visit she had taken to UZBEKISTAN, where 
they make the finest gold embroidery you would ever imagine. It was 
photos from a workshop.
Later we went to a shop to buy some bobbins she was going to use in the 
lace class at Penny Ladniers Costume Gallery. There i had a very fine 
chat to the lady who has the shop about gold embroidery. I had taken my 
goldembroidery for the costume i make for myself with me to show 
Barbara, now i showed it to the lady in the shop also. Would you know? 
she actually sells this goldthread in the shop! I was very surprised of 
that, and she also carries the gold sequins i use!
The best thing of it all was, that i learned what a buillon thread is 
called in Danish. I had no idea about that. It is called  Kantille thread.
In many ways today was a very special day, it was very lucky we went to 
that shop. Now i dont have to import from America any more, she imports 
from England, Benton and Johnson.
Barbara is travelling home again tomorrow. It was very special and 
lovely to talk to her.

Many greetings

Bjarne in a cold frosty Copenhagen.  

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:21:28 -0800
Status: RO

At 7:32 PM -0600 1/2/02, Magdalena wrote:
>So, I'm curious.  Did you draft one with neck gussets, or without?  I've been
>researching and playing with period shirts for a while now, and I've 
>come to the
>conclusion that I like ones with neck gussets much better.  They seem to have
>been made both with and without, but I find that the neck gusset eliminates
>pulling and makes gathering to the neckband much easier.  What's your
>experience?

This reminds me that I made a 16th-century shirt for an honorary 
"brother" of mine, who informed me after a while that it was 
uncomfortable to wear because it didn't have a back yoke. He pointed 
out that, if a shirt is merely gathered into the neckline at the 
back, there is extra fullness at the upper back shoulder line that 
tends to migrate toward the front, causing the sleeves to twist. This 
tightens the shirt in the upper arm area, which he finds 
uncomfortable.

I've noticed the same tendency for the sleeves to twist in my own 
shirts, but what I didn't realize is that since my shoulders slope, 
there's still plenty of ease in that area, so it doesn't bother me if 
the upper sleeves are twisted. He has shoulders that are wider and 
much more square than mine, so there isn't as much ease.

A back yoke, even just a couple of inches deep, helps this problem 
considerably, since it holds the fullness back and prevents it being 
pulled forward over the arm. However, I have no idea whether shirts 
in the 16th century had this problem, or if so, how they solved it.

Anyone else have this experience?
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Needlework resolutions
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:53:12 -0800
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This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------_=_NextPart_001_01C194BA.2FC19C10
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I made 3 needlework resolutions (actually they were the only resolutions I
made at all):
 * No solid fashion fabrics -- I find that if I dont force myself, I tend to
choose solid fabrics because they are somehow "safe". Whether this means
safe from long fabric searches, safe from the snarks, safe from my own
self-critique doesnt really matter.  Thus I am resolved to head for stripes,
plaids, brocades, paisley, whatever. (Monochrome damask weaves still count
as "solid" and will be put aside this year.)
 * Work lighter -- Coming at historic costume thru the Victorian door, I
find a tendancy to over-structure garments.  Many times this isnt bad,
especially in corsets, tailored jackets, & evening bodices that last thru
many wearings.  This year I'm resolved to lighten up & work in airy fabrics
& styles that require a gentle hand, new techniques and less room in the
closet.
 * Finish my 31st quilt with a 3-D design.
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo

------_=_NextPart_001_01C194BA.2FC19C10
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	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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<META content="MSHTML 5.00.3315.2870" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT size=2><SPAN class=037423400-04012002>I made&nbsp;3 needlework 
resolutions (actually they were the only resolutions I made at 
all):</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2><SPAN class=037423400-04012002>&nbsp;*&nbsp;No solid fashion 
fabrics -- I find that if I dont force myself, I tend to choose solid fabrics 
because they are somehow "safe". Whether this means safe from long fabric 
searches, safe from the snarks, safe from my own self-critique doesnt really 
matter.&nbsp; Thus I am resolved to head for stripes, plaids, brocades, paisley, 
whatever. (Monochrome damask weaves still count as "solid" and will be put aside 
this year.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2><SPAN class=037423400-04012002>&nbsp;* Work lighter -- Coming 
at historic costume thru the Victorian door, I find a tendancy to over-structure 
garments.&nbsp; Many times this isnt bad, especially in corsets, tailored 
jackets, &amp; evening bodices that last thru many wearings.&nbsp; This year I'm 
resolved to lighten up &amp; work in airy fabrics &amp; styles that require a 
gentle hand, new techniques and less room in the closet.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2><SPAN class=037423400-04012002>&nbsp;* Finish my 31st quilt 
with a 3-D design.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV class=MsoNormal><FONT size=2>--cin <BR>Cynthia&nbsp;<SPAN 
class=037423400-04012002>in</SPAN> Tokyo</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------_=_NextPart_001_01C194BA.2FC19C10--
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan  3 19:59:02 2002
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:54:11 +0100
Status: RO

Hello
Someone on the lace list sended this charming little rabbit or hare? who 
makes lace :
http://www.porterfieldsfineart.com/MelindaCopper/thelacemaker.htm

-- I thoaght you should se it also :-)

Bjarne

 Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colors 2002 Predictions
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:48:24 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:33 AM +0100 1/3/02, Henk 't Jong - tScapreel wrote:
>Hi Heather,
>
>You wrote:
>
>One of the more significant
>"explosions" in color words in European languages seems to have
>paralleled the growth of a medieval cloth industry that involved
>regular, long-distance trade in dyed cloth.  It doesn't seem to have
>been so much the ability to reliably produce particular colors and
>shades, but the desire to be able to label these different colors and
>shades for commercial purposes.
>
>That's a very interesting obseravtion. Do you know of any literature 
>about this? Up to now (as you know I 'do' 1250-1350) I have not 
>found many colour names in 'my' period, just (in translation) red, 
>darkred or carmine, blue and darkblue (perse), 'brun' ( a problem 
>colour in the way of describing it properly), green, grey, black, 
>uncoloured and mixed, and very rarely purple. No yellow to speak off.

The most convenient single-source volume for recent color-term 
linguistic studies is "Color Categories in Thought and Language" 
edited by C.L. Hardin and Luisa Maffi (Cambridge University Press, 
1997).  The specific article in the collection on the above topic is 
focusing on English color words: "Color shift: evolution of English 
color terms from brightness to hue" by Ronald W. Casson.  But as with 
most academic articles, there are also lots of works in the 
bibliography for further pursuit.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A new dress
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:33:50 -0500
Status: RO

That was my guess, but it's not my period, so I was not 100% sure, and
Peacock has a tendency to misdraw some things.

It still doesn't change the fact that I'm not sure how to construct it :-)
Though I'm starting to have a better idea...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Katie" <nejma@tds.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A new dress


> Isn't that a bliaut??
>
> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I will be attending a "medieval wedding" this summer. (I don't think it'll
> > be what *I* could call medieval, but hey, it's a good occasion to wear a
> > costume ;-)
> >
> > So, I found this dress in Peacock. I know he's not a very good reference for
> > periodness, but I love the dress (not the hat, I'll wear a veil and a
> > circlet with flowers on my head)
> > You can see it here.
> > http://www.geocities.com/audreybmorin/Varia/dress.jpg
> >
> > I don't mind the dress not being 100% accurate, but if I can make it more
> > period without making apparent alterations, I'd be happy. So now with my
> > questions.
> >
> > Would you make it with underarm gussets? It is tight-fitting so could it be
> > laced on the sides? I'm guessing it would probably be made with gores at the
> > sides and back starting at hip level, but would you also put a gore in
> > front? How do I obtain the right shape for the train? What shape would you
> > make the sleeves?
> >
> > Are there any other things you can think of that would help me construct the
> > dress? I've made a bunch of t-tunics already with different widths and
> > shapes so making a dress without a pattern doesn't really scare me, but
> > there are things like lacing or sleeves that I have never done yet.
> >
> > I'm thinking green silk. Crepe maybe, as it falls nicely and is not too
> > shiny. Any other ideas for what kind of silk I could use? White linen
> > underdress, with hidden lacing on the forearm so it's tight-fitting. It will
> > be long enough that I'm not worried about shoes, so that's not a problem.
> > I'll try to find false hair to make a very long braid out of and hide the
> > attachment point under the veil, my hair is way too short to do anything
> > with.
> >
> > Thanks a lot,
> > Alix

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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:56:07 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> At 09:25 AM 1/3/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> >Alternatively, there is a lacing method that produces only horizontals,
> >and it may explain the occasional appearance of the horizontal-row lacings
> >(which seem to me to be primarily a German feature and occasionally
> >Burgundian, but I haven't examined this issue in detail). The lacing
> >method uses hooks or rings at the edge or just inside the inside edge of
> >the fabric. You lace straight across, then (on the inside) go up one, then
> >lace back across, then go up one, and so on. I've never done this myself,
> >and it would seem to me that this is not something that could take a lot
> >of stress, but would be sufficient to keep an overdress lying flat and
> >organized.
> 
> Actually, when I was in the military we used to lace our boots with the 
> straight across lacing and never had any problems with it.  I've also seen 
> it done on Italian gowns effective.  It was nick-named "ladder lacing" on 
> some email lists.  This page has a reasonable explanation of one way of 
> doing it.  http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/lacing/lacing.html

Did you do your boots with a single lace or a double? I know it works well
with two laces going in opposite directions; the pressure balances. I'm
not so sure how it would do with a single lace, which would put vertical
pressure in only half the spaces.

--Robin


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       Bravo Teddy!  I love a man with convictions who has the nerve to stand 
up to the system and fight.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bravo Teddy! &nbsp;I love a man with convictions who has the nerve to stand up to the system and fight. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 17:55:09 -0800
Status: RO

To Leif-

Ooooh, thank you for sending this site to the list.  This art is just
adorable;  take a look at the Gerbils on Stage, how perfect!!!
The artist found just the right animal for the subject, for instance,
Kitty on the Half Shell is over the top.  Thank you, thank you.  P.S.
Happy New Year!!!

Theresa Eacker

Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hello
> Someone on the lace list sended this charming little rabbit or hare? who
> makes lace :
> http://www.porterfieldsfineart.com/MelindaCopper/thelacemaker.htm
> 
> -- I thoaght you should se it also :-)
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:04:09 -0600
Status: RO

To read about one Scandinavian influence on Tolkein, here is an article
from National Geographic:

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2001/12/1219_tolkienroots.html

Kim

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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:25:27 EST
Status: RO


--part1_10d.b416305.29666c97_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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In a message dated 1/3/02 5:44:30 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:


> Barbara is travelling home again tomorrow. It was very special and 
> lovely to talk to her.
> 
> Many greetings
> 
> Bjarne in a cold frosty Copenhagen.  
> 

Bjarne,  What a nice letter.  I hope Barbara reads it too!

Darla

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#0000a0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>In a message dated 1/3/02 5:44:30 PM Pacific Standard Time, drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></B>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Barbara is travelling home again tomorrow. It was very special and 
<BR>lovely to talk to her.
<BR>
<BR>Many greetings
<BR>
<BR>Bjarne in a cold frosty Copenhagen. &nbsp;
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#0000a0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>
<BR>Bjarne, &nbsp;What a nice letter. &nbsp;I hope Barbara reads it too!
<BR>
<BR>Darla</B></FONT></HTML>

--part1_10d.b416305.29666c97_boundary--
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan  3 21:11:01 2002
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Permanent velvet stamping
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 18:38:33 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

just visit www.hotpotatoes.com and all will become
clear!  It works, it's gorgeous and you can make
fabulous gifts -- for Christmas I gave my
sister-in-law an evening bag made from cobalt blue
velvet stamped with a forget-me-not design that I then
picked out in gold thread and champagne-colored seed
beads.

I don't know aboutpermanence -- I've never used it to
make something that gets washed.  They also now have
stamp-able velvet ribbon.

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

--- sustre@pixelations.com wrote:
> It sounds lovely! And what a great resolution!
> 
> Does Hot Potatoes have an online site? The velvet
> sounds yummy, and 
> I'd love to look at the stamps....
> 
> It was my impression that hot-stamping washes out
> and needs to be 
> re-done- am I wrong about that?
> 
> Anyway, it sounds marvellous! I've made the Nomad
> Dress myself a few 
> times, and it's very comfortable and easy to move
> in, so I think it's 
> a great choice.
> 
> -Amanda
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 18:54:24 -0800
Status: RO


Could someone please repost the link to the swap and sell community?  My 
husband's computer ate it and I need to put up the pictures of the 
Elizabethan outfit.  No, the beautiful teenaged daughter is not included. 
<G...moreGiggles>

Jennifer
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan  3 21:38:31 2002
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 22:06:30 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, Bjarne how lovely to go on a shopping trip. Barbara is one lucky
lady!!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan  3 21:50:35 2002
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From: Purple Kat <purplkat@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:19:29 -0500
Status: RO

If I may add my 2 cents here --

speaking from a woman's perspective --

I sometimes wear shirts that are *way* too long for me. When I wear a skirt 
it is no problem, but when I am wearing any type of pants/ slacks/ trousers 
I generally pull the center back of the shirt through the middle of my 
legs, and with the front of the shirt unbuttoned I pull the 2 front "tails" 
through to the back *over* the back piece.

This sometimes adds an extra bit of *lumpiness* to the crotch area, but 
with a little bit of moving, and a little but of *pouffing* on the shirt's 
part, everything looks great.

also, I remember seeing a book with the different months portrayed, and 
IIRC one of the pics has a man bent over showing his backside. it looks 
IIRC like he is wearing a "diaper/ nappy" with his shirt tucked into it.

Kat

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan  3 21:56:29 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Ladder Lacing
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 21:25:32 -0600
Status: RO

If I may - this is the traditional form of ladder lacing on shoes.

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe2/IMAGES/LACE.GIF

Marc

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 21:58:18 -0600
Status: RO

Is this what you are looking for? http://www.communityzero.com/

Cheers,
Danielle

At 06:54 PM 1/3/2002 -0800, you wrote:

>Could someone please repost the link to the swap and sell community?  My 
>husband's computer ate it and I need to put up the pictures of the 
>Elizabethan outfit.  No, the beautiful teenaged daughter is not included. 
><G...moreGiggles>
>
>Jennifer

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:01:18 -0600
Status: RO

At 08:56 PM 1/3/2002 -0600, you wrote:

>On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> > At 09:25 AM 1/3/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> > >Alternatively, there is a lacing method that produces only horizontals,
> > >and it may explain the occasional appearance of the horizontal-row lacings
> > >(which seem to me to be primarily a German feature and occasionally
> > >Burgundian, but I haven't examined this issue in detail). The lacing
> > >method uses hooks or rings at the edge or just inside the inside edge of
> > >the fabric. You lace straight across, then (on the inside) go up one, then
> > >lace back across, then go up one, and so on. I've never done this myself,
> > >and it would seem to me that this is not something that could take a lot
> > >of stress, but would be sufficient to keep an overdress lying flat and
> > >organized.
> >
> > Actually, when I was in the military we used to lace our boots with the
> > straight across lacing and never had any problems with it.  I've also seen
> > it done on Italian gowns effective.  It was nick-named "ladder lacing" on
> > some email lists.  This page has a reasonable explanation of one way of
> > doing 
> it.  http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/lacing/lacing.html
>
>Did you do your boots with a single lace or a double? I know it works well
>with two laces going in opposite directions; the pressure balances. I'm
>not so sure how it would do with a single lace, which would put vertical
>pressure in only half the spaces.
>
>--Robin

It was kind of odd - both really.  You start the lace normally across the 
bottom holes and then draw one end (you need to make it much shorter than 
the other) up the inside to the top hole and then out.  The other end of 
the lace you treat like a single lace in that fashion and when you get to 
the top you tie your ends together like normal.  It worked out to be the 
right number of holes on our boots - I don't know if that would work on all 
things...

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:03:21 -0600
Status: RO

At 09:25 PM 1/3/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>If I may - this is the traditional form of ladder lacing on shoes.
>
>http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe2/IMAGES/LACE.GIF
>
>Marc

You're right Marc.  That is right - I had misremembered.  I just realized 
it's been almost 7 years since I've had to lace boots that way.... Oh my!

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:00:00 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Karen, I can't speak for either of the patterns, but if you don't
mind a little extra work in enlarging a graphed pattern, you can get a
booklet inexpensively from Parks Canada entitled "Man's Coat 1730-1750, a
visual guide to cut and construction". It was produced for sale at the
Fortress of Louisbourg and has a lot of good historical and construction
details that you don't get with modern patterns. The pattern and costruction
details are based on originals from assorted museums, and you have the added
benefit of supporting a good cause. The ISBN is 0-662-23532-0. I think I got
mine from a gift shop in Williamsburg, but a few 18th Cent. Sutlers carry
them. Good Luck, Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:LOTR - Galadriel's frock.
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 17:04:03 +1300
Status: RO

> What it's actually made of is ireelevant.  It *looks* like the "lace"
> fabric that started appearing on market stalls (here at least) in the
> 80s, some of which comes pre-sequinned.

Oh I'm sorry, I thought your many emails on the subject denoted some sort of
importance to the subject.

You see what you see, sure, but do look again: First Impressions was the
original title for Pride and Prejudice after all.

Wasn't the original thread about working out how the costumes were made
anyway?

michaela

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladder Lacing
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 23:46:15 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Marc wrote:
> >If I may - this is the traditional form of ladder lacing on shoes.
> >
> >http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe2/IMAGES/LACE.GIF

Danielle replied:
> You're right Marc.  That is right - I had misremembered.  I just realized 
> it's been almost 7 years since I've had to lace boots that way.... Oh my!

Now this one I know. It's like a spiral lace, but double-ended, with the
end that isn't spiraling brought up crosswise to balance the diagonal pull
of the spiral. I've seen that before (and I think I may have even seen it
on some bodice in a painting).

So that's very different from the right-angled zigzag we were postulating
for the weird lacing representation in the calendar picture. That, done
with a single lace, probably wouldn't be able to hold a lot of stress
without making the laced edges pull and bunch in awkward ways.

--Robin


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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:53:39 -0600
Status: RO

I need to go to Wally World tomorrow cause I don't have the right 
shade of green threat to attach the trim to my new dress and I 
wondered..."Did they worry about matching thread back then?"

I mean do you think the dyed threat with material so that they matched, 
or was thread just thread??

Katie
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 00:11:36 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Katie wrote:

> I went wandering around that site and found this..
> 
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/zgothic/gothic/2/index.html
> 
> look at the "Wise Virgins" and note the pleating/gathering 
> of fabric going from under the arm to the waist.  
> 
> Do you think this is the construction of the garment??

My GOD these are weird. I've never seen anything like this. I'd think
pleats before gathers, and I've seen something similar on cloaks, but
under the arm? It would sure make fullness in a surcote, but it could also
mean a lot of excess fabric in the sides and not enough in front and back.

It says 1245, Cathedral, Magdeburg. Where is that? (Yeah, I could go look
it up, and I suppose I will eventually.) The faces on the sculptures look
German in style.

Maybe it's a regional thing. If this is accurate, and at all widespread,
it would mean a lot of rethinking for me. But the Wise Virgins are about
as reliable as the Virgin Mary as costume sources, meaning ... sometimes.

--Robin



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 00:13:01 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Katie wrote:

> Isn't that a bliaut??  

I think it thinks it's a bliaut. For Peacock, it's not as awful as a lot
of his other stuff.

--Robin

> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> > 
> > Hi,
> > 
> > I will be attending a "medieval wedding" this summer. (I don't think it'll
> > be what *I* could call medieval, but hey, it's a good occasion to wear a
> > costume ;-)
> > 
> > So, I found this dress in Peacock. I know he's not a very good reference for
> > periodness, but I love the dress (not the hat, I'll wear a veil and a
> > circlet with flowers on my head)
> > You can see it here.
> > http://www.geocities.com/audreybmorin/Varia/dress.jpg

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:01:42 -0600
Status: RO

Man I need sleep replace all "threat"s with "thread"

Sorry about that

Katie wrote:
> 
> I need to go to Wally World tomorrow cause I don't have the right
> shade of green threat to attach the trim to my new dress and I
> wondered..."Did they worry about matching thread back then?"
> 
> I mean do you think the dyed threat with material so that they matched,
> or was thread just thread??
> 
> Katie
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:21:24 -0600
Status: RO

I put Magdeburg in google and one of the links says 
"Messe Magdeburg, mitten in Deutschland" and if I 
remember the little German I learned the 2 years I 
lived there I think "mitten" means middle.  But hey 
you saw my post about thread, so I wouldn't bet the 
farm on it...even if I had a farm. *L*

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Katie wrote:
> 
> > I went wandering around that site and found this..
> >
> > http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/zgothic/gothic/2/index.html
> >
> > look at the "Wise Virgins" and note the pleating/gathering
> > of fabric going from under the arm to the waist.
> >
> > Do you think this is the construction of the garment??
> 
> My GOD these are weird. I've never seen anything like this. I'd think
> pleats before gathers, and I've seen something similar on cloaks, but
> under the arm? It would sure make fullness in a surcote, but it could also
> mean a lot of excess fabric in the sides and not enough in front and back.
> 
> It says 1245, Cathedral, Magdeburg. Where is that? (Yeah, I could go look
> it up, and I suppose I will eventually.) The faces on the sculptures look
> German in style.
> 
> Maybe it's a regional thing. If this is accurate, and at all widespread,
> it would mean a lot of rethinking for me. But the Wise Virgins are about
> as reliable as the Virgin Mary as costume sources, meaning ... sometimes.
> 
> --Robin
> 
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:32:12 -0700
Status: RO

Could it be a result of the same sort of into-the-armpit gores you see
on recreations of those "10-gore" dresses? There doesn't look to be a
great deal of extra fullness lower down on the dresses, though.....
Magdeburg's in Germany (Saxony, to be more precise).  The cathedral in
question was started in 1208 by Albert II, and not finished for 156
years, so who knows the actual dates for the statuary <g>.
Another website I looked at refers to Magdeburg as the state capital of
the German state of Sachsen-Anhalt.  It's apparently on the river
Elbe...
Here's a link with more pictures of the town and the cathedral:
http://www.green-basketball.de/magdeburg-engl.htm

Gawd, ain't Google handy <g>
--Sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Katie wrote:
> 
> > I went wandering around that site and found this..
> >
> > http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/zgothic/gothic/2/index.html
> >
> > look at the "Wise Virgins" and note the pleating/gathering
> > of fabric going from under the arm to the waist.
> >
> > Do you think this is the construction of the garment??
> 
> My GOD these are weird. I've never seen anything like this. I'd think
> pleats before gathers, and I've seen something similar on cloaks, but
> under the arm? It would sure make fullness in a surcote, but it could also
> mean a lot of excess fabric in the sides and not enough in front and back.
> 
> It says 1245, Cathedral, Magdeburg. Where is that? (Yeah, I could go look
> it up, and I suppose I will eventually.) The faces on the sculptures look
> German in style.
> 
> Maybe it's a regional thing. If this is accurate, and at all widespread,
> it would mean a lot of rethinking for me. But the Wise Virgins are about
> as reliable as the Virgin Mary as costume sources, meaning ... sometimes.
> 
> --Robin
> 
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:27:47 -0600
Status: RO

Well the one I was making from the Wingeo pattern was a 
total mess.  I bought more material and cheated doing the
fold/cut/sew/hem method.  Using one of my kirtles for
the fitted upper sleeves/upper body part, and the sleeve
from the pattern to get the "swooping" sleeve.  I will
be wearing it to 12th Night for my Barony on Saturday and 
will get some pics.  If any one wants to see what I 
came up with let me know.  I know it will not be "period"
construction, but hey if I can fake it I will. *L*

Katie 
A blonde always looking for short cuts....
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:35:12 -0700
Status: RO

ROTFLMAO....good thing I'm not drinking tea at this hour of the night,
or I'd be wiping it off my monitor ;-P
--Sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Katie wrote:
> 
> > Isn't that a bliaut??
> 
> I think it thinks it's a bliaut. For Peacock, it's not as awful as a lot
> of his other stuff.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> > Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I will be attending a "medieval wedding" this summer. (I don't think it'll
> > > be what *I* could call medieval, but hey, it's a good occasion to wear a
> > > costume ;-)
> > >
> > > So, I found this dress in Peacock. I know he's not a very good reference for
> > > periodness, but I love the dress (not the hat, I'll wear a veil and a
> > > circlet with flowers on my head)
> > > You can see it here.
> > > http://www.geocities.com/audreybmorin/Varia/dress.jpg
> 
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:37:37 -0700
Status: RO

What got me some Kewl Stuff (tm) with Google was entering Magdeburg, and
then doing an advanced search, using "cathedral," and specifying
"English language," since the only few words I know in German are -uhm-
scatalogical....<g> [actually costume related....taught to me by a
german lady with whom I worked in a costume shop a long time ago)
--Sue

Katie wrote:
> 
> I put Magdeburg in google and one of the links says
> "Messe Magdeburg, mitten in Deutschland" and if I
> remember the little German I learned the 2 years I
> lived there I think "mitten" means middle.  But hey
> you saw my post about thread, so I wouldn't bet the
> farm on it...even if I had a farm. *L*
> 
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> >
> > On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Katie wrote:
> >
> > > I went wandering around that site and found this..
> > >
> > > http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/zgothic/gothic/2/index.html
> > >
> > > look at the "Wise Virgins" and note the pleating/gathering
> > > of fabric going from under the arm to the waist.
> > >
> > > Do you think this is the construction of the garment??
> >
> > My GOD these are weird. I've never seen anything like this. I'd think
> > pleats before gathers, and I've seen something similar on cloaks, but
> > under the arm? It would sure make fullness in a surcote, but it could also
> > mean a lot of excess fabric in the sides and not enough in front and back.
> >
> > It says 1245, Cathedral, Magdeburg. Where is that? (Yeah, I could go look
> > it up, and I suppose I will eventually.) The faces on the sculptures look
> > German in style.
> >
> > Maybe it's a regional thing. If this is accurate, and at all widespread,
> > it would mean a lot of rethinking for me. But the Wise Virgins are about
> > as reliable as the Virgin Mary as costume sources, meaning ... sometimes.
> >
> > --Robin
> >
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladder Lacing
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:38:15 -0600
Status: RO

Thanks to all for explaining different forms of ladder lacing to me!

> Marc wrote:
> > >If I may - this is the traditional form of ladder lacing on shoes.
> > >
> > >http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe2/IMAGES/LACE.GIF

Yes indeed (though I didn't learn to lace my shoes that way until I went
to Ireland).  I don't know that this is what is taking place on these
bodices (not that you said it was, of course), because you'd still end
up with diagonals across the open space behind.

Robin Netherton wrote:
>  
> So that's very different from the right-angled zigzag we were postulating
> for the weird lacing representation in the calendar picture. That, done
> with a single lace, probably wouldn't be able to hold a lot of stress
> without making the laced edges pull and bunch in awkward ways.

I would tend to agree, though I've never tried it.  Is this what's
happening in the Cranach pictures and other Germans with horizontal
laces?  The edges must have been boned, because the gowns look very
closely fitted. 
See http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/c/cranach/lucas_e/3/ the "Saxon
Princesses Sibylla, Emilia and Sidonia," two of which have spiral lacing
with diagonals connecting and one of which has ladder-looking-lacing.

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> The diagonals are on the back side of the lacings. It was actually a
> very common lacing pattern.

On the back side of the lacings?  I'm not sure what you mean by this. 
When the edges to be laced do not meet, the back side of the lacing
would also be visible.

Thanks again for all the interesting discussion!
Melanie
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:37:36 -0600
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> I noticed the same thing last week when I put up my calendar, and decided
> that these are probably just a poor rendering. One of the things I'm
> wondering is how much the image has been enlarged.

This is a good point, but everything else looks fairly detailed, so I
don't think it can have been enlarged too terribly much.  I'm willing to
go with painter error.

> In this case, on the turbaned lady, I think we do have an impression of
> the diagonals, but very sketchy and not accurately placed: they appear as
> shadowy pale red horizontal lines in the white space between the dominant
> laces.

I interpreted these lines as the shadows cast by the laces on the
underlayer.  I'm not sure I would agree with them being an inaccurate
rendering of diagonals.

> But I wouldn't read a whole lot into the use of laces with a gathered
> overgarment. This is an altarpiece, and these are almost certainly
> Biblical/historial figures.

True enough, and yet I'm still curious about Botticelli's "Young Woman"
(the 2nd one here
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/botticel/portrait/index.html ).  To be
sure, her hair is rather...fanciful...but it is labelled as a portrait
(ok, that probably doesn't mean anything!).  I've always been curious
about this dress, as it seems to be not only gathered into the neckline
but also into the armscye.  Any thoughts?

Melanie
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:36:35 -0600
Status: RO

Katie wrote:
> 
> I went wandering around that site and found this..
> 
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/zgothic/gothic/2/index.html
> 
> look at the "Wise Virgins" and note the pleating/gathering
> of fabric going from under the arm to the waist.
> 
> Do you think this is the construction of the garment??

I've never actually seen this before.  I'm not sure that it is directly
related, as it's a couple of centuries earlier.  I can't see the fronts
very well, but I don't think these lace up there.  They also look a
little flat across the front, as if most of the fullness were coming
from under the arm.

I am curious about this gathering/pleating in the armpit.  Does anyone
know this construction?  Other examples?

Melanie
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:52:14 -0700
Status: RO

My take is that construction thread was just thread. It was linen, for
the most part. I'd suspect (with nothing to prove it) that for sewing on
ornamentation, some sort of "embroidery" thread may have been used,
possibly silk. The color matching fetish is a gift from the Victorians.

No supporting documentation, just an educated guess.

MD/MArged
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:48:50 -0600
Status: RO

So the beige threat I have might actually be more "in tune" then 
going and buying matching green thread? *L*  

Katie

Mary Denise Smith wrote:
> 
> My take is that construction thread was just thread. It was linen, for
> the most part. I'd suspect (with nothing to prove it) that for sewing on
> ornamentation, some sort of "embroidery" thread may have been used,
> possibly silk. The color matching fetish is a gift from the Victorians.
> 
> No supporting documentation, just an educated guess.
> 
> MD/MArged
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:52:55 -0600
Status: RO

What is it with me and the word threaD tonight????????

Katie wrote:
> 
> So the beige threat I have might actually be more "in tune" then
> going and buying matching green thread? *L*
> 
> Katie
> 
> Mary Denise Smith wrote:
> >
> > My take is that construction thread was just thread. It was linen, for
> > the most part. I'd suspect (with nothing to prove it) that for sewing on
> > ornamentation, some sort of "embroidery" thread may have been used,
> > possibly silk. The color matching fetish is a gift from the Victorians.
> >
> > No supporting documentation, just an educated guess.
> >
> > MD/MArged
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:06:38 -0700
Status: RO

In paintings and in such originals as I have seen, I have not noticed a
color contrast in the thread used to attach ornamentation. Think of it
like this - the attaching thread is either "invisible" or part of the ornamentation.

Robin? Jump in here!

MD/Marged
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ladder Lacing
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:57:51 -0600
Status: RO

>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Danielle:
>>You're right Marc.  That is right - I had misremembered.  I just 
>> >>realized it's been almost 7 years since I've had to lace boots that 
>>way.... Oh my!

Almost 15 for me, but it came up not long ago regarding lacing Oxfords 
correctly

>Now this one I know. It's like a spiral lace, but double-ended, with >the 
>end that isn't spiraling brought up crosswise to balance the diagonal pull 
>of the spiral. I've seen that before (and I think I may have even seen it 
>on some bodice in a painting).
>
>So that's very different from the right-angled zigzag we were >postulating 
>for the weird lacing representation in the calendar picture. That, done 
>with a single lace, probably wouldn't be able to hold a lot of stress 
>without making the laced edges pull and bunch in awkward ways.

I haven't seen the picture so I can't say.  I know that this system works 
well with leather, and reinforced fabric -- something to stiffen things up a 
bit.

Marc



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: LOTR final credit quote
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 00:13:04 -0600
Status: RO

I've managed to acquire the text for the LOTR final quote I asked about 
last week:

"HE MIHI NUI HOKI KI NGA TANGATA WHENUS O AOTEAROA. MA RANGI RAUAKO PAPA 
TATOU E MAHAAKI, E TIAKI HEI HGA TAU E UT MAI NEI.

Does this help?

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Matching thread?
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 01:33:19 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Mary Denise Smith wrote:

> My take is that construction thread was just thread. It was linen, for
> the most part.

This is my understanding too. The last time I looked at this issue, which
was a while ago, I came away with the impression that for seams, the
default is undyed linen thread, meaning beige or off-white in most cases.
I've seen that on a handful of artifacts, when I've remembered to look,
and I've used it myself with success; if you're sewing fulled wool, the
thread disappears in the depths of the fabric.

There's certainly existing evidence of wool thread used for seams, too,
though I don't know if it was routinely dyed, and I don't remember the
wheres and whens offhand.

Silk thread would typically be used only for silk fabric, for the very
practical reason that it is stronger than other fibers and, if used on
other fibers, can cut the seams over time.

A longstanding option is to pull a thread from the edge of the fabric
you're using and sew with that. Not so easy to do with most modern
fabrics, but maybe more practical for strong handwoven fabrics. If your
fabric is dyed, the thread would be the same color and fiber, of course.

Of course, it's hard to tell with a lot of extant garments just what the
thread was. Depending on the conditions they've experienced, the thread
might have disintegrated (e.g. linen might disappear in some environments,
like graves, while wool cloth remains, leaving only stitching holes to go
by). This can skew our evidence. Items kept for their value (e.g. saints'
relics, church vestments) might have been resewn at a later date. Heather
would have a better read on this than I do, as extant items are her
specialty.

Decorative sewing may be different, as Mary Denise noted:

>  I'd suspect (with nothing to prove it) that for sewing on
> ornamentation, some sort of "embroidery" thread may have been used,
> possibly silk.

That rings true to me, but I'm not the one to ask. This is one of many
areas I've been meaning to get more solid information on.

--Robin

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 06:34:08 -0000
Status: RO

>     It is a good looking jacket.  Too bad kids tend to keep on growing and
growing and growing.  Not just kids either -- it is a good thing I have just
T-tunics and sideless surcoats in my garb wardrobe right now, because I sure
overindulged over the holidays.

Tee Hee

My Victorian stuff "tells" me when I've overdone it !

Mel

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <F253LiC1h1jYhAOylhg0000eeb6@hotmail.com><004c01c19243$d4e92d80$12250218@chstfld1.va.home.com> <p05001903b857fd63ad72@[192.168.1.100]><003f01c1935d$0d938da0$53114ed5@pavilion> <p05001900b85a24c32c8d@[192.168.1.100]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Anglo-Saxon burials
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 06:33:11 -0000
Status: RO

>Nice stuff! For myself, I'm having a blast making various pieces. If 
any turn out particularly well, I might make a few extra for sale 
myself, especially since we seem to be interested in different pieces.



Let me know if you do I know most of the Anglo Saxons here in the UK

Mel

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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 22:35:39 -0800
Status: RO


I did a mock up of the Medici suit over the summer. (Cosimo, I think;
1562-ish?)  When I did it, I interpreted the dashed line in the codpiece
pieces as a fold & sew arrangement.  If the codpiece is a decorative fly
stuffed with batting, this is reasonable.  If the codpiece is a place for a
guy to tuck his parts, then what is the dotted line on the pattern piece
supposed to signify?
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo who never actually made or wore a 16th c anything, but
might someday

> > In looking at the codpieces in Arnold, I'm confused as to their
> > functionality. 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan  4 01:15:47 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Woman calendar mystery
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 02:00:05 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> True enough, and yet I'm still curious about Botticelli's "Young
> Woman" (the 2nd one here
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/botticel/portrait/index.html ).  To
> be sure, her hair is rather...fanciful...but it is labelled as a
> portrait (ok, that probably doesn't mean anything!).  I've always been
> curious about this dress, as it seems to be not only gathered into the
> neckline but also into the armscye.  Any thoughts?

Not my period, and I really have no clue on what's happening on the front
-- e.g. what's under, what's over, and whether those stripes are lacings
or just decoration.

But I do notice that the part of the bodice that seems gathered into the
armscye is only the area connected to the sleeve. The edge of the armscye
that forms the opening (where the chemise puffs out) is smooth. So maybe
the armscye is pulled up a bit along that seam connecting the bodice to
the shoulder of the sleeve?

I should also note that Botticelli is known for treating clothing (and
hair and other elements) rather imaginatively as served his own purposes,
so I wouldn't take him to the bank. I'm sure that many of the bits he
includes are realistic, but others aren't, and I don't feel competent to
guess which are which.

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan  4 02:31:11 2002
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] link?
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 00:00:16 -0800
Status: RO




>From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>

>Is this what you are looking for? http://www.communityzero.com/
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>I need to put up the pictures of the
>>Elizabethan outfit.  >>
>>Jennifer
>
Thank You!!!

I did it!!  I only put two up in general, but if anyone wants to see the 
other views I'll send them privately.  Please let me know what you think of 
the gown.

Jennifer
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan  4 03:06:49 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Merveilleuse mockup
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 00:36:02 -0800
Status: RO

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I've always wanted one of those French merveilleuse style gowns... within
limits of decency.  I also love those descriptions of the French court, and
diplomatic wives in their gold encrusted evening gowns.   Happily the French
werent quite so shy about color, if you flip thru "Modes Revolutionaires"
and "Revolution in Fashion".
In a fit of obsession,  I've spent the last 6 days drafting, fitting &
mocking up a gown.  Mostly, I used the Norah Waugh book "Cut of Women's
Clothes", diagram XXXV and photo #43 (2 different gowns). I'm at the final
mockup wherein the gown is done up in fabrics close to the final in weight,
fiber & hue.  Idea is to check the hang, figure out real yardage needed,
eyeball strongly patterned panels & borders and generally work thru problem
areas.  Here's my comments:

 * The gold brocade (originally the sari's palou) is way too heavy. Looks ok
in the bodice, but the sleeves are too stiff. They should be drapey.
 * That 7 meter sari wasnt long enough. The train finished 8" too short.
 * Uk, too much yardage in the CB & on the side.  Ironing may help this, but
I doubt it. (I laughed when I looked at it. You can, too!)
 * Binding at neckline - yeah, it's lighter in weight than the brocade.
 * The bra-like front closure under the "bib" is very successful. (See photo
#43, Waugh's book.) The forward & upward tug creates clevage without
corsetting.

 <http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria>
http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria the Click the folder "Bib-front
Gown 1803".

So, questions for you, ladies & gents:
 * What else needs work?
 * Would you gather the decorated panel (marked "embroidered panel" in
N.Waugh diagr XXXV) or leave it flat?
 * Was the sari fabric , while light in weight, too crisp?
 * Should the "waist" line gathering be ironed flat?
 * The whole thing has a "short and dumpy" effect.  How to fix it?
 * Other critique?

That was *supposed* to be my final muslin for an 1803 bib-front gown.  Yeah,
I'll probably take some of the excess out of the skirt, then finish it with
a "good enough for Gaskell's" attitude.
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo 

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<DIV><FONT size=2>I've always wanted one of those French merveilleuse style 
gowns... within limits of decency.&nbsp; I also love those descriptions of the 
French court<SPAN class=543041507-04012002>,</SPAN> and diplomatic wives in 
their gold encrusted evening gowns.&nbsp;&nbsp; Happily the French werent quite 
so shy about color, if you flip thru "Modes Revolutionaires" and "Revolution in 
Fashion".<BR>In a fit of obsession,&nbsp; I've spent the last 6 days drafting, 
fitting &amp; mocking up a gown.&nbsp; Mostly, I used the Norah Waugh book "Cut 
of Women's Clothes", diagram XXXV and photo #43 (2 different gowns). I'm at the 
final mockup wherein the gown is done up in fabrics close to the final in 
weight, fiber &amp; hue.&nbsp; Idea is to check the hang, figure out real 
yardage needed, eyeball strongly patterned panels &amp; borders and generally 
work thru problem areas.&nbsp; Here's my comments:<BR><BR>&nbsp;* The gold 
brocade (originally the sari's palou) is way too heavy. Looks ok in the bodice, 
but the sleeves are too stiff. They should be drapey.<BR>&nbsp;* That 7 meter 
sari wasnt long enough. The train finished 8" too short.<BR>&nbsp;* Uk, too much 
yardage in the CB &amp; on the side.&nbsp; Ironing may help this, but I doubt 
it. (I laughed when I looked at it. You can, too!)<BR>&nbsp;* Binding at 
neckline - yeah, it's lighter in weight than the brocade.<BR>&nbsp;* The 
bra-like front closure under the "bib" is very successful. (See photo #43, 
Waugh's book.) The forward &amp; upward tug creates clevage without 
corsetting.<BR><BR></FONT><A href="http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria" 
target=_blank><FONT 
size=2>http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria</FONT></A><FONT size=2> the 
Click the folder "Bib-front Gown 1803".<BR><BR>So, questions for you, ladies 
&amp; gents:<BR>&nbsp;* What else needs work?<BR>&nbsp;* Would you gather the 
decorated panel (marked "embroidered panel" in N.Waugh diagr XXXV) or leave it 
flat?<BR>&nbsp;* Was the sari fabric , while light in weight, too 
crisp?<BR>&nbsp;* Should the "waist" line gather<SPAN 
class=543041507-04012002>ing</SPAN> be ironed flat?<SPAN 
class=543041507-04012002></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2><SPAN class=543041507-04012002>&nbsp;* The whole thing has a 
"short and dumpy" effect.&nbsp; How to fix it?</SPAN><BR>&nbsp;* Other 
critique?<BR><BR>That was *supposed* to be my final muslin for an 1803 bib-front 
gown.&nbsp; Yeah, I'll probably take some of the excess out of the skirt, then 
finish it with a "good enough for Gaskell's" attitude.<BR>--cin<BR>Cynthia in 
Tokyo </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] lucas de haare - london ladiies sleeve question
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:09:29 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Greetings,

I am having a bit of trouble drafting a pattern for
the sleeves of the gown in the picture of four london
ladies by Lucas de Haare:

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/gallery/middle-wmn.html

I am trying to recreate the second gown from the left.
 I have the body of the gown sorted out but I am stuck
on the construction of the sleeve and the correct
setting of the collar.  Could anyone help?  I am not
interested in buying patterns as they never fit
properly I would much rather draft it myself.

Any help is much appreciated.

Many Thanks

Rachel (UK).

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
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References: <0Xb$AEAc5KM8Iw3A@montgomerie.demon.co.uk><006901c1934e$66e37780$12250218@chstfld1.va.home.com> <p04320401b859039bb012@[136.152.196.2]><00a201c1943e$ec87f1e0$a4dbf1c3@henk> <p04320401b85a56e37411@[136.152.196.26]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colors 2002 Predictions
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 10:47:48 +0100
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi,

You wrote:
  The most convenient single-source volume for recent color-term
  linguistic studies is "Color Categories in Thought and Language"
  edited by C.L. Hardin and Luisa Maffi (Cambridge University Press,
  1997).  The specific article in the collection on the above topic is
  focusing on English color words: "Color shift: evolution of English
  color terms from brightness to hue" by Ronald W. Casson.  But as with
  most academic articles, there are also lots of works in the
  bibliography for further pursuit.

  Thanks, Heather, I'll see if I can get it.

  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>The most convenient single-source volume for recent color-term
  <BR>linguistic studies is "Color Categories in Thought and Language"
  <BR>edited by C.L. Hardin and Luisa Maffi (Cambridge University Press, =

  <BR>1997).&nbsp; The specific article in the collection on the above =
topic is
  <BR>focusing on English color words: "Color shift: evolution of =
English
  <BR>color terms from brightness to hue" by Ronald W. Casson.&nbsp; But =
as with
  <BR>most academic articles, there are also lots of works in the
  <BR>bibliography for further pursuit.<BR><BR>Thanks, Heather, I'll see =
if I
  can get it.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></B=
ODY></HTML>

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From: Ella Lynoure Rajamaki <lynoure@tuug.fi>
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Subject: [h-cost] weird shirt fastening?
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:08:01 +0200 (EET)
Status: RO


Hello,

I ran into http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1522_2.shtml and noticed that
the shirt almost looks like it fastens at side front (where a raglan seam
might be). Even in a zoomed view it looks more like an opening than a
stain or slash. Can this be?  However, there is somethign in center
front too...something that looks like a pink ribbon going through two
lacing holes. Which is the fastening and what in the world is the
other? Does anybody have a bigger and clearer picture of this?

-- 
Lynoure Rajamaki
lynoure@tuug.fi



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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: [h-cost] LOTR final credit quote, Maori
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 00:04:59 +1300
Status: RO

While I'm here:
http://www.akiko.co.nz/NZ/Culture/NZDic.html nz phrases into us equivalents
for those who may get cofused by what I say;)


> "HE MIHI NUI HOKI KI NGA TANGATA WHENUA O AOTEAROA. MA RANGI RAUAKO PAPA
> TATOU E MAHAAKI, E TIAKI HEI NGA TAU E UT MAI NEI.*
> Does this help?
> Sandy
yeppers:)
*I replaced the s in whenua to the correct a, easy typo to do:), not sure if
ut is utu or uta, based on the surrounding words, I suspect uta, and hga to
nga..
he=a, fail, some, wrong
mihi=greet, admire, lament
nui=many, in public, abundant, large
hoki= also, and, beacause, for, return (used for emphasis)
ki=at. against, for, full, into, if, on, say, towards, with, (connects verb
with subject)
nga Tangata Whenua o Aotearoa= the people of the land of Aotearoa (New
Zealand)
ma=and
    rangi=heaven
    rauako= ?? raua=them ko=at, to (address a girl)
    papa=buttocks, board, flat but Papa=earth together I think it's the sky
father and earth mother.
tatou=we
e= o!, a number, participle denoting progress in past/present/future, when
mahaaki=mahaki=calm, sick, meek, mild
tiaki=guard hei=as, at, for, to , in, with tau=young, be able, alight,
lover, time, (utu=price, reward) uta=the land mai=action to the speaker
nei=nearness to the speaker
With so many meanings to the words, this is either a greeting from the
People of the land of new Zealand, or an apology to Nga Tangata o Aotearoa.
I may ask for a translation tomorrow.

I'm not so hot on Maori grammar, structuring sentances is a tad difficult.
And I can't find a translator online to do a whole sentance.
http://www.maoricd.co.nz/home.htm

michaela


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:LOTR - Galadriel's frock.
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 11:16:12 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Michaela,

> Oh I'm sorry, I thought your many emails on the subject denoted
> some sort of importance to the subject. 

Good grief no.  I was just saying what the costume looks like to me.
 
> You see what you see, sure, but do look again: First Impressions was
> the original title for Pride and Prejudice after all.

I've looked at several stills on the web and in a couple of books and 
it still looks like tacky nylon-lace fabric to me.  Each to their own, of 
course, but I *can't* see a dress in that fabric as being in any way 
attractive.
 
> Wasn't the original thread about working out how the costumes were
> made anyway?

Not the one I first responded to - it was about the film and the 
costumes in general.  I loved the film and that costume was the 
one moment where the costume was the foremost thought on my 
mind.

Teddy
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 08:55:54 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Joan Broneske wrote:
> I can't stand horror or hacker/slasher movies,
> they give me nightmares,

Speaking for myself -- I have problems with horror movies too, for the
same reason.  I have no problem with LOTR or Raiders or any of that
sort of thing; I suppose because I know the 'good guys' win in the end,
unlike horror movies where almost everyone winds up dead for no
particularly good reason.  Unfortunately, I do have problems
with things like the rape scene in Rob Roy, which really has kept me from
watching the movie again (even though I have it on tape)... a pity,
because I really do want to go back through it and look at the costumes,
just for fun.  I started watching it again once, and just kept dreading
what I knew was coming up -- it spoiled it for me enough that I popped the
tape out and haven't tried to watch it again since.

I really wish they'd intimated that scene (noises coming from inside the
cottage, filmed from outside the cottage) rather than showing it plain...

-- Mara

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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 07:10:14 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, Cynthia...I'd love to look at it, but when I try your link I get one
of those obnoxious "server not found" errors.
--sue

> Cynthia Barnes wrote:
 
> http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria the Click the folder
> "Bib-front Gown 1803".
> 
> So, questions for you, ladies & gents:
>  * What else needs work?
>  * Would you gather the decorated panel (marked "embroidered panel" in
> N.Waugh diagr XXXV) or leave it flat?
>  * Was the sari fabric , while light in weight, too crisp?
>  * Should the "waist" line gathering be ironed flat?
>  * The whole thing has a "short and dumpy" effect.  How to fix it?
>  * Other critique?
> 
> That was *supposed* to be my final muslin for an 1803 bib-front gown.
> Yeah, I'll probably take some of the excess out of the skirt, then
> finish it with a "good enough for Gaskell's" attitude.
> --cin
> Cynthia in Tokyo
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 09:16:16 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:
> The best thing of it all was, that i learned what a buillon thread is
> called in Danish. I had no idea about that. It is called  Kantille thread.
> In many ways today was a very special day, it was very lucky we went to
> that shop. Now i dont have to import from America any more, she imports
> from England, Benton and Johnson.

Bjarne-
	Have you ever been to Silke-Annet's shop up in Farum? She
does a lot of bobbin lace and assorted historic costume and
has lots of stuff. She's where I got all for my supplies for
my High-Hat outfit this past summer. I can give you her
phone and address is you're interested. Just in case you're
looking for another shop for supplies, you know.
	-Judy Mitchell
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:17:22 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

On Fri, 4 Jan 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> Hi, Cynthia...I'd love to look at it, but when I try your link I get one
> of those obnoxious "server not found" errors.
>  
> > http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria the Click the folder
> > "Bib-front Gown 1803".

The address works fine for me, but I can't find any folder with that 
name. Am I blind/stupid, or is something else going on? :)

Ingrid

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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 15:48:34 +0100
Status: RO



Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> I
> So, questions for you, ladies & gents:
>  * What else needs work?
>  * Would you gather the decorated panel (marked "embroidered panel" in 
> N.Waugh diagr XXXV) or leave it flat?
>  * Was the sari fabric , while light in weight, too crisp?
>  * Should the "waist" line gathering be ironed flat?
>
>  * The whole thing has a "short and dumpy" effect.  How to fix it?
>  * Other critique?
>
> That was *supposed* to be my final muslin for an 1803 bib-front gown.  
> Yeah, I'll probably take some of the excess out of the skirt, then 
> finish it with a "good enough for Gaskell's" attitude.
> --cin
> Cynthia in Toky
>

Dear Cynthia.

It is a very small world here. I am making the excaktly same 
gown!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Except, i dont make it with the embroidered ribbon. But if i had used 
one, i wouldnt gather it at the waistline. I have just finished the 
corset from 1795 in Norah Waughs book to go with it and i just came home 
today from the fabric shop. I have baught bridal satin and silk chiffon. 
White. It is for the norwegian lady i made the sack dress with 
beadembroidery for. I make the dress doubble one layer of bridal satin 
and one layer of chiffon. I think the chiffon will give it this greek 
look. I didnt have the time to embroider the band myself and went trough 
a lot of stores to fine one i could use, but no.
Therefore i  dont make it with this.
When you gather the skirt and  you have sewed it to the bodice, you 
should make a band inside the bodice to cover the thick gatherring. Make 
a bend in the band and hide the seam behind the band and the bodice.
Regency dresses was mostly made in fabrics that falls heavy. Light 
materials as well. I think that a gold brokade is two stiff. The fabric 
must fall in fine wawes if you know what i men. For gods sake i cant 
spell men from mening! Sorry, time for coffe!!
This was a coinsidense, i am going to make it this week end.

Bjarne
  


-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 16:16:36 +0100
Status: RO



Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

>On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Joan Broneske wrote:
>
>>I can't stand horror or hacker/slasher movies,
>>they give me nightmares,
>>

The movie Alien gave me nightmares many years. I wish i never had gone 
to se that movie. And i lived in a forrest in the countryside in those 
days and had to go trough a pech black forrest when i was going home!

Bjarne


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Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 08:48:17 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- Margo@margospatterns.com wrote:
> After all the raving, maybe it's time for a different opinion....
(snip) 
> More scenery....and
> surprise,
> here come some Things That want To Kill You.

Hm... well, my co-worker Loie (who is a Quaker) never managed to get
through the books either... she had pretty much the same reaction to
the movie as you did, I think: she thought it was too violent.  (This
didn't bother me, but then I guess I expected it.)  She said that the
movie definitely made her want to go visit New Zealand, though.

I guess I got more from the books about what having the ultimate
power (the Ring) does to even good people (Bilbo, or Gandalf or
Galadriel if they'd taken the Ring).  It's rather odd that the books
were written before the Bomb was invented.

Anyway...  you're not obliged to like them!  Really!  De gustibus non
disputandem and all that.

I think of all the Tolkien stuff, I liked his smaller stories a
little better.  I re-read those a lot more (and sections of the
Silmarillion) than the LoTR trilogy.  And re-read C.S. Lewis's books
a lot more than Tolkien's -- sort of the difference between sagas
(Tolkien) and folk tales (Lewis).  Tolkien was really setting out to
create a new epic mythology, and that sort of mythos is notoriously
lacking in humor -- the grand sweep of it doesn't lend itself well
toward that kind of thing.  And mythology deals very much in
stereotypes and broadly-painted characterizations.  Loie said that
the Ring trilogy seems very Wagnerian to her.  I guess that could be
a good comparison.

> Things I did like:  The art direction and design.  I loved Bag End,
> an Arts
> and Crafts Movement hole in the ground!  

Yes, wasn't that a hoot?  Who wouldn't want to live in such a home? 
I saw a "making of" special -- they planted the gardens in Hobbiton a
year before they started filming, so the plants would have a chance
to mature in place and look right.  And yes, the costumes were
gorgeous.  The hobbits' costumes got me thinking about tweed jackets
and velvet or damask waistcoats...

I don't think the movie ruined anything for people who already liked
the books -- it just didn't win over people like you, and Loie, who
weren't already fans.

-- Mara

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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 02:35:48 -0500
Status: RO

Today we received our first snow for the winter.  Every year it is such a
chore to find something to cover my daughter's head (she's the one with a
lot of long thick hair).  We finally found some thing that works.  So I
thought I would share with you who might have the same problem... it is tam
or beret hat.  The one we found is made of 85% nylon &15% acetate.  It is
really stretchy and repels water!!!!!  My daughter pulls her hair in a
ponytail and then rolls it up into the hat.  Now, she can go sledding or
make snow angels and not have a hair-related accident or end up with wet
hair.  She looks really cute in it.  If she shifts the weight of her hair to
the back of the hat, it kinda looks like a cal.

For those in the U.S. I found the hat at Big Lots and they were $2.99.  They
are in different colors too!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:27:52 GMT
Status: RO

Hi Cyn,


Just my tuppence on this but, I'd say that the fabric is indeed too crisp. I feel that to get the right look with this style (and it's a tricky style to wear if you aren't built like a 12 year old boy)a very, very soft and drapey fabric is essential. Something along the lines of a well-washed hankie linen or a cotton batiste. This is the perfect style to use all those silks that are just too soft and drapey for the earlier 18th century fashions. Perhaps pressing the gathers/pleats down at the waist would help. I love the colors, and they style looks very interesting. I've only done a couple of French Revolution/Regency dresses but the bib front style is one I'd like to try.


Karen


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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 16:37:02 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
I am not expert in this period, but could the sleave be cut like a tunic 
and then gathered at the armscye? It looks that way, weird!

Bjarne

Robin Netherton wrote:

>On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
>
>>True enough, and yet I'm still curious about Botticelli's "Young
>>Woman" (the 2nd one here
>>http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/botticel/portrait/index.html ).  To
>>be sure, her hair is rather...fanciful...but it is labelled as a
>>portrait (ok, that probably doesn't mean anything!).  I've always been
>>curious about this dress, as it seems to be not only gathered into the
>>neckline but also into the armscye.  Any thoughts?
>>
>
>Not my period, and I really have no clue on what's happening on the front
>-- e.g. what's under, what's over, and whether those stripes are lacings
>or just decoration.
>
>But I do notice that the part of the bodice that seems gathered into the
>armscye is only the area connected to the sleeve. The edge of the armscye
>that forms the opening (where the chemise puffs out) is smooth. So maybe
>the armscye is pulled up a bit along that seam connecting the bodice to
>the shoulder of the sleeve?
>
>I should also note that Botticelli is known for treating clothing (and
>hair and other elements) rather imaginatively as served his own purposes,
>so I wouldn't take him to the bank. I'm sure that many of the bits he
>includes are realistic, but others aren't, and I don't feel competent to
>guess which are which.
>
>--Robin
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 11:28:13 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


Lovely fabric! I agree with the gathering--if you got rid of the front
gathers and just put one pleat at either side, pushing the rest of the
fulness to the back, you'd get a better look.  I used "stroked pleats" to
make the skirt on my muslin gown.  It's basically like
mini-cartridge-pleats, pulled up and then pushed flat. It managed to get a
lot of bulk into a small area yet keep things from poofing out. (three
and a half yards gathered into 12 inches of space)!  That
might help flatten the gathers on the back.

Perhaps you could try gently washing a small sample in cool water
with a mild soap, to see if this removes some of the crispness from the
fabric.

Thanks for the pics (and I wish I could wear that color),

Drea





On Fri, 4 Jan 2002, Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> I've always wanted one of those French merveilleuse style gowns... within
> limits of decency.  I also love those descriptions of the French court, and
> diplomatic wives in their gold encrusted evening gowns.   Happily the French
> werent quite so shy about color, if you flip thru "Modes Revolutionaires"
> and "Revolution in Fashion".
> In a fit of obsession,  I've spent the last 6 days drafting, fitting &
> mocking up a gown.  Mostly, I used the Norah Waugh book "Cut of Women's
> Clothes", diagram XXXV and photo #43 (2 different gowns). I'm at the final
> mockup wherein the gown is done up in fabrics close to the final in weight,
> fiber & hue.  Idea is to check the hang, figure out real yardage needed,
> eyeball strongly patterned panels & borders and generally work thru problem
> areas.  Here's my comments:
>
>  * The gold brocade (originally the sari's palou) is way too heavy. Looks ok
> in the bodice, but the sleeves are too stiff. They should be drapey.
>  * That 7 meter sari wasnt long enough. The train finished 8" too short.
>  * Uk, too much yardage in the CB & on the side.  Ironing may help this, but
> I doubt it. (I laughed when I looked at it. You can, too!)
>  * Binding at neckline - yeah, it's lighter in weight than the brocade.
>  * The bra-like front closure under the "bib" is very successful. (See photo
> #43, Waugh's book.) The forward & upward tug creates clevage without
> corsetting.
>
>  <http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria>
> http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria the Click the folder "Bib-front
> Gown 1803".
>
> So, questions for you, ladies & gents:
>  * What else needs work?
>  * Would you gather the decorated panel (marked "embroidered panel" in
> N.Waugh diagr XXXV) or leave it flat?
>  * Was the sari fabric , while light in weight, too crisp?
>  * Should the "waist" line gathering be ironed flat?
>  * The whole thing has a "short and dumpy" effect.  How to fix it?
>  * Other critique?
>
> That was *supposed* to be my final muslin for an 1803 bib-front gown.  Yeah,
> I'll probably take some of the excess out of the skirt, then finish it with
> a "good enough for Gaskell's" attitude.
> --cin
> Cynthia in Tokyo
>


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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 11:43:55 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

>
> http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/gallery/middle-wmn.html
>
> I am trying to recreate the second gown from the left.
>  I have the body of the gown sorted out but I am stuck
> on the construction of the sleeve and the correct
> setting of the collar.  Could anyone help?  I am not
> interested in buying patterns as they never fit
> properly I would much rather draft it myself.
>

I had trouble with those sleeves, too.  I was recreating the first gown
on the left. I tried to build a base for the
sleeve based on the boned sleeve on Arnold's Ropa in Patterns of Fashion,
using shaped heavy buckram stuffed with batting.  The
fabric was lumpy over it, and it wasn't very sturdy--one push on the
buckram would leave a hollow. Even when I supplemented it with poly
boning, it still looked lumpy.

I ended up creating a close-fitting undersleeve, sewing a network of poly
boning still in the fabric sleeves to it, stuffing it with poly boning and
fitting a layer of cotton batting over the boning to soften the line.
The outer sleeve I built by hand, fitting and draping fabric over the
structure.  I'm not completely satisfied with the result, but it came out
pretty well. I included light boning inside the black velvet guards on
the sleeves, which also helped.

For the collar, I just extended the fabric of the front pieces into a
point at the collar, and extended the back neckline up. Kind of like the
partlet pattern at
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/lowerclass/images/partlet-pat.jpg,
only with a higher collar.

There's a pic of the gown at http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/wardrobe/
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/wardrobe/gownkirtle.html

Good luck,

Drea

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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:04:20 -0800
Status: RO


> > The diagonals are on the back side of the lacings. It was actually a
> > very common lacing pattern.
> 
> On the back side of the lacings?  I'm not sure what you mean by this. 
> When the edges to be laced do not meet, the back side of the lacing
> would also be visible.

In a photograph that would be true, but sometimes the laces on the 
underside are not shown. (Artist's convention?)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:20:07 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 1/2/02 9:56:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<<  He wears his old Ren. Faire clothes when he goes to Ren.
 Faire, and so what if the chair isn't period.>>

Ooh!   He could make it look like a throne!  Instant charisma.

I'll have to look around, but I do believe I saw a book once on fashion 
designing for the  wheelchair-bound...  I'll try to find a link and post it 
here soon.  I think this a worthy topic.

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:03:36 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 1/2/02 1:39:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< You know, Tolkien himself said that these books were not, in fact, a
 metaphor for WWII.  I am not sure where the quote is to be found, but I will
 look.
 
 Margretta
 (delurking) >>

Hmm, ok.  I'd be interested to read that.  The only quote I knew of was that 
he denied it was a treatise against the atomic bomb (being used in WW II).  
He was quite adamant about that.  We do know Tolkien's work was influenced by 
his preoccupance with death, however, which resulted from most of his friends 
dying in the war, when he was only in his 20's.

Go ahead and e-me privately if you find that tidbit.  I am always up for 
discussion of this profound work of literature.

Thanks,
Gillian
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 20:49:40 +0200 (EET)
Status: RO

On Fri, 4 Jan 2002, Judy Mitchell wrote:

> 	Have you ever been to Silke-Annet's shop up in Farum? She
> does a lot of bobbin lace and assorted historic costume and
> has lots of stuff. She's where I got all for my supplies for
> my High-Hat outfit this past summer. I can give you her
> phone and address is you're interested. Just in case you're
> looking for another shop for supplies, you know.

Could you post her address to the list? I'm would like it too, and I'm
sure I am not the only one, especially if she'd do mail order.

-- 
Lynoure Rajamaki
lynoure@tuug.fi


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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:35:43 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 1/2/02 9:56:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< Bias covered cord was used to edge anything boned and fitted>>

Yes, this technique is much easier than attempting to turn a lined and boned 
garment.  For anyone wondering how to do this, see the instructions on the 
bodice for Simplicity pattern # 8881.  FYI, "bias covered cord" is also 
called "piping" in the U.S., and can be found pre-made in the notions areas 
of fabric stores.  

<< and yes, polyboning is about the only thing you can get in NZ (but it's 
not Rigilene) >>

Well, here's a website you can buy steel boning from that seems to ship 
internationally.  Good prices, and I've never had a problem with my orders.

http://www.granndgarb.com

--Gillian Tedcastle, "Keeping the world corseted..."

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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 20:39:01 GMT
Status: RO

On Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:03:36 EST, the following was written in this
electric book by Azelana@aol.com:

>The only quote I knew of was that 
>he denied it was a treatise against the atomic bomb (being used in WW II).  
>He was quite adamant about that.  We do know Tolkien's work was influenced by 
>his preoccupance with death, however, which resulted from most of his friends 
>dying in the war, when he was only in his 20's.

He was in WWI - In France, I think - he was a Mustard Gas casualty.
His son might have been in WWII, late in the war, IIRC. He was in his
50's during WWII:

http://us.imdb.com/Name?Tolkien,+J.R.R.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:LOTR - Galadriel's frock.
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 13:27:35 -0800
Status: RO




>I've looked at several stills on the web and in a couple of books and
>it still looks like tacky nylon-lace fabric to me.  Each to their own, of
>course, but I *can't* see a dress in that fabric as being in any way
>attractive.
>
I was thinking of making a purple one in acid peeled velvet over buttersoft 
satin.  I've used that kind of velvet before and the textures are really 
fun.  But then I really like soft, fuzzy, and purple. ;)

Jennifer

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From: Deb Rand <martyr@gti.net>
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 16:39:39 -0500
Status: RO

No Sue, you aren't blind <g>... the one slash after 'com' was reversed.
This is the address:
http://photos.yahoo.com/hatchikohysteria
AND
You have to sign into Yahoo! to view the Bib Front file.
If you don't sign in, that particular file does not come up for
some reason..
Guests aren't allowed, I guess.
Deb R.


> The address works fine for me, but I can't find any folder with that
> name. Am I blind/stupid, or is something else going on? :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume flicks and violence
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:47:17 -0600
Status: RO

I have seen an occasional slasher movie--in my home, with my DH to tell me
when to duck--but the ones that give me nightmares are the ones in which
children are hurt.

OTOH, I read a horror comic when I was eight about a large orange monster
that came out of a closet. Until I left home at seventeen, I could NOT sleep
with my closet door open. For years, I kept a tiny child's rocking chair up
against that door at night. Living in a haunted house didn't help any,
either.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 7:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Costume flicks and violence


> On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Joan Broneske wrote:
> > I can't stand horror or hacker/slasher movies,
> > they give me nightmares,
>
> Speaking for myself -- I have problems with horror movies too, for the
> same reason.  I have no problem with LOTR or Raiders or any of that
> sort of thing; I suppose because I know the 'good guys' win in the end,
> unlike horror movies where almost everyone winds up dead for no
> particularly good reason.  Unfortunately, I do have problems
> with things like the rape scene in Rob Roy, which really has kept me from
> watching the movie again (even though I have it on tape)... a pity,
> because I really do want to go back through it and look at the costumes,
> just for fun.  I started watching it again once, and just kept dreading
> what I knew was coming up -- it spoiled it for me enough that I popped the
> tape out and haven't tried to watch it again since.
>
> I really wish they'd intimated that scene (noises coming from inside the
> cottage, filmed from outside the cottage) rather than showing it plain...
>
> -- Mara
>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII? 
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:28:39 -0800
Status: RO


It is in the introduction to the first book - at least the one that I have,
a mid 70s version.  But it is WWI that he says it isn't a metaphor for.  It
is suppose to be in protest to the industrialization of the English
countryside that happened after WWI.

Susan Courney

>
> << You know, Tolkien himself said that these books were not, in fact, a
>  metaphor for WWII.  I am not sure where the quote is to be found, but I will
>  look.
>
>  Margretta
>  (delurking) >>
>
> Hmm, ok.  I'd be interested to read that.  The only quote I knew of was
that
> he denied it was a treatise against the atomic bomb (being used in WW II).
> He was quite adamant about that.  We do know Tolkien's work was influenced by
> his preoccupance with death, however, which resulted from most of his friends
> dying in the war, when he was only in his 20's.
>
> Go ahead and e-me privately if you find that tidbit.  I am always up for
> discussion of this profound work of literature.
>
> Thanks,
> Gillian

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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:53:35 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Ella- 
> Could you post her address to the list? I'm would like it too, and I'm
> sure I am not the only one, especially if she'd do mail order.

 She goes by  the name Silke-Annet her address is: 
Dorthesvej 2 Dk-3520 Farum and
her phone is 44-95-05-55. Oh, she does have email (which is
mostly how I was in touch with her), but she seemed somewhat
slow to answer. Probably because she ran most of it through
her son to deal with the English. Her email is:
silke-annet@detail.dk. I don't know how much mail order she
does, but you could certainly ask her.

	-Judy Mitchell
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:59:01 -0500
Status: RO

Susan wrote:
> It is in the introduction to the first book - at least the one that I have,
> a mid 70s version.  But it is WWI that he says it isn't a metaphor for.  It
> is suppose to be in protest to the industrialization of the English
> countryside that happened after WWI.

	There was a show on PBS  the week before the movie came out
(the show was called "JRR Tolkien") that mentioned that the
only time his experiences in the War come into the book is
in the section about the Dead Marshes and the faces he sees
in them. The show also interviewed Queen Margrethe of
Denmark  because she had written a fan letter to Tolkien
when she read it as a teenager. She found it fascinating how
he involved aspects of sagas and norse mythology, which of
course she was well versed in, and wrote to tell him so. She
also was certain that some of the Elvish seemed to sound
Finnish. In some of his letters he explains that Quenya was
based largely on the sounds of Finnish, while Sindarin grew
from his fascination with Welsh.
	-Judy Mitchell (who will get to see the movie again since I
was given two gift passes!)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 16:03:16 -0800
Status: RO

To the Liste:

The January issue of Smithsonian (with a beautiful tiger face on the
cover) has an article called "J.R.R. Tolkien and the Lord of the Rings",
in which the influences of WWI/WWII on Tolkien are touched upon. 
Interesting reading and might answer some of the questions in this thread.

Theresa Eacker

Susan wrote:
> 
> It is in the introduction to the first book - at least the one that I have,
> a mid 70s version.  But it is WWI that he says it isn't a metaphor for.  It
> is suppose to be in protest to the industrialization of the English
> countryside that happened after WWI.
> 
> Susan Courney
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:34:59 -0800
Status: RO

At 07:32 PM 01/02/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:
>
>> I've drafted a pattern based on the 1585-1600 shirt in the Museum
>> of Costume at Bath, as shown in the Janet Arnold shirts and smocks article.
>>
>
>So, I'm curious.  Did you draft one with neck gussets, or without?  I've been
>researching and playing with period shirts for a while now, and I've come
to the
>conclusion that I like ones with neck gussets much better.  They seem to have
>been made both with and without, but I find that the neck gusset eliminates
>pulling and makes gathering to the neckband much easier.  What's your
>experience? 

I used the neck gussets.  You're right, they make the garment fit better,
and are much more comfortable and durable.  They seem scary to sew at first,
but once you get the hang of it they're no big deal.

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 17:16:23 -0800
Status: RO

Delurking briefly since I'm on break and can actually read this while
its still being discussed.

The LotR was started in 1936.  But due to his need to flesh out the
history and the outbreak of WWII, its completion was delayed.  Actually his son,
Christopher, was in the RAF in South Africa during WWII and he sent excerpts for
him to read as he was working on it at home.  He would get his son's feedback as
he worked on the story.   Tolkien says that he went through a variety of other
personal changes that slowed down the process as well.  He moved, changed jobs
and typed and retyped it himself.  He finally completed it in 1949.  He said it
was not based on either war, but said that author's are influenced by their
experiences.  He does not like allegory but prefers history, whether real or feigned.
This is from Tolkien's prologue from the 1973 Ballantine edition where he gives
a small insight into his writing process.

Personally, I loved the books and the movie.  Of course I like epics.  I
also enjoy the Homeric Poems and find many interesting similarities
between them.

Ok, back into lurk mode

Karolee Smiley

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/2/02 1:39:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> << You know, Tolkien himself said that these books were not, in fact, a
>  metaphor for WWII.  I am not sure where the quote is to be found, but I will
>  look.
>
>  Margretta
>  (delurking) >>
>
> Hmm, ok.  I'd be interested to read that.  The only quote I knew of was that
> he denied it was a treatise against the atomic bomb (being used in WW II).
> He was quite adamant about that.  We do know Tolkien's work was influenced by
> his preoccupance with death, however, which resulted from most of his friends
> dying in the war, when he was only in his 20's.
>
> Go ahead and e-me privately if you find that tidbit.  I am always up for
> discussion of this profound work of literature.
>
> Thanks,
> Gillian
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:55:49 -0700
Status: RO

Well, darn it, you're right...and I don't "do" yahoo....grump,
grump....does anyone have another picture of this dress? It sounds
really pretty.....:-(
--sue

Deb Rand wrote:
> 
> No Sue, you aren't blind <g>... the one slash after 'com' was reversed.
> This is the address:
> http://photos.yahoo.com/hatchikohysteria
> AND
> You have to sign into Yahoo! to view the Bib Front file.
> If you don't sign in, that particular file does not come up for
> some reason..
> Guests aren't allowed, I guess.
> Deb R.
> 
> > The address works fine for me, but I can't find any folder with that
> > name. Am I blind/stupid, or is something else going on? :)
> 
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From: Lynn Downward <lynnie1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:05:13 -0800
Status: RO

I've been having problems with sending out e-mails lately from home.  I sent this
message on Thursday and quoted from the forward.  Hopefully, it will reach the
list this time.  Here's the quote you were looking for.
LynnD

Gillian wrote:
Oh dear!  There's going to be a war, ya know...  LOTR is a metaphorical
account of Tolkien's own emotional experiences of WWII, written into a
fantasy story.  I'm afraid it will get MUCH more violent.  Felt I should warn
you.

No it isn't metaphore, and Tolkien says so very clearly.  I've been reading it
recently in a one-volume reprint I bought myself for Christmas 2000 (Houghton
Mifflin, ISBN 0-395-97468-2).  I don't mean to be argumentative, but here are his

own words.

In the forward to the second edition, first published in October 1965, (he
deleted the first forward), Professor Tolkien wrote, "As for any inner meaning or

'message', it has in the intention of the author none.  It is neither allegorical

nor topical . . . The crucial chapter, 'The Shadow of the Past', is one of the
oldest parts of the tale.  It was written long before the foreshadow of 1939 had
yet become a threat of inevitable disaster, and from that point the story would
have developed along essentially the same lines, if that disaster had been
averted.  Its sources are things long before in mind, or in some cases already
written, and little or nothing in it was modified by the war that began in 1939
or its sequels."  Tolkein goes on to say that if the book had followed WWII, the
Ring would have been used agains Sauron "not annihilated but enslaved, and
Barad-dur would not have been destroyed but occupied."  He goes on for a couple
more paragraphs on this line, but then says that an author cannot write and be
completely separated from the world around him.  He reminds his readers that he
was caught up in WWI and that was just as bad as WWII for many people; all but
one of his close friends were dead by 1918.  However, he says that the book was
already in his mind before there were even threats of another war.

LynnD
Having read it first at the tender age of 11 or12
in (oh my God) 1963-44

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/31/01 2:34:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> << I agree with Margo, however. I didn't care much for it as it was
>  *way* too violent for me. I spent a good portion of the movie
>  (especially in the last part) with my head buried in my husband's
>  shoulder going "are they done fighting yet." However, since it is a
>  cultural icon, I will go see the other two. >>
>
>
>
> --Gillian

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/2/02 1:39:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> << You know, Tolkien himself said that these books were not, in fact, a
>  metaphor for WWII.  I am not sure where the quote is to be found, but I will
>  look.
>
>  Margretta
>  (delurking) >>
>
> Hmm, ok.  I'd be interested to read that.  The only quote I knew of was that
> he denied it was a treatise against the atomic bomb (being used in WW II).
> He was quite adamant about that.  We do know Tolkien's work was influenced by
> his preoccupance with death, however, which resulted from most of his friends
> dying in the war, when he was only in his 20's.
>
> Go ahead and e-me privately if you find that tidbit.  I am always up for
> discussion of this profound work of literature.
>
> Thanks,
> Gillian

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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 22:25:13 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks for all of the ideas.  One of my biggest problems is getting skirts
caught in the wheels, especially when I am in a position to us my manual
chair for the day.  What figures is that I absolutely fell in love with
Elizabethan and early Tudor just before being stuck in these things, and
love full skirts, etc.  Unfortunately, I can't even get away with a full
length tunic, let alone the full stuff.;-p  I guess I could have worse
problems.;-}
YIS,
Moira

  Another was to always make the fit loose enough that there was no
> binding, no tight spot, anywhere, especially if they had trouble dressing
> themselves or with arm motions (I gather you don't have a problem here).
>
> My favourite suggestion for wheelchair folks is to decorate the chair
itself.
> This will tend to frame the sitter whatever he/she is wearing.  The
simplest
> way is to hang a banner (or a nice piece of cloth) down the back of the
chair.
> Cloth slipcovers for the arms don't hurt the looks either.  If you do
> Renaissance, look at the chairs in Ren. portraits for ideas.  (I was at a
> Science Fiction convention, and someone had decorated her chair like a
> futuristic transport pod, which went with her space ship uniform.)
>
> My housemate will always have to use a chair, and even tho the thing is
really
> high tech and motorized (and cost more than my car did) he still looks
really
> good wearing his evening clothes and sitting in the chair at Dickens' Fair
or
> historical dances.  He wears his old Ren. Faire clothes when he goes to
Ren.
> Faire, and so what if the chair isn't period.
>
>
> Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>

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From: "Lori Sharpsteen" <lsharp@fidnet.com>
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:52:12 -0600
Status: RO

I have two books on this subject, actually. (I once considered starting a
clothing company specializing in garments for physical limitations and
calling it User Friendly Clothing Company) One is published by Simplicity
and called "Design Without Limits" The other is titled "Dressing With Pride"
by Evelyn S. Kennedy and was published by PRIDE (Promote Real Independence
for the Disabled and Elderly) in 1981. If you want more info about the
books, let me know.

Lori Sharpsteen

-----Original Message-----
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Behalf Of h-costume-request@indra.com
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 8:15 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #580 - 15 msgs


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Tolkien not WWII? (Azelana@aol.com)
   2. Re: wheelchair costumes (Azelana@aol.com)
   3. Re: piped edges and boning (Azelana@aol.com)
   4. Re: Re: Tolkien not WWII? (chimericalgirl@attbi.com)
   5. Re: Re:LOTR - Galadriel's frock. (Jennifer Sena)
   6. Re: Merveilleuse mockup (Deb Rand)
   7. Re: Costume flicks and violence (Greg and Dianne Stucki)
   8. Re: Re: Tolkien not WWII? (Susan)
   9. Re: listmembermeting (Judy Mitchell)
  10. Re: Re: Tolkien not WWII? (Judy Mitchell)
  11. Re: Re: Tolkien not WWII? (Theresa Eacker)
  12. Re: H-cost:  Wearing 16th Century Shirts (Margo@Margospatterns.com)
  13. Re: Re: Tolkien not WWII? (Karolee Smiley)
  14. Re: Merveilleuse mockup (Sue Clemenger)
  15. Re: Re: Tolkien not WWII? (Lynn Downward)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: Azelana@aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:03:36 EST
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

In a message dated 1/2/02 1:39:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< You know, Tolkien himself said that these books were not, in fact, a
 metaphor for WWII.  I am not sure where the quote is to be found, but I
will
 look.

 Margretta
 (delurking) >>

Hmm, ok.  I'd be interested to read that.  The only quote I knew of was that
he denied it was a treatise against the atomic bomb (being used in WW II).
He was quite adamant about that.  We do know Tolkien's work was influenced
by
his preoccupance with death, however, which resulted from most of his
friends
dying in the war, when he was only in his 20's.

Go ahead and e-me privately if you find that tidbit.  I am always up for
discussion of this profound work of literature.

Thanks,
Gillian

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: Azelana@aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:20:07 EST
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: wheelchair costumes
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

In a message dated 1/2/02 9:56:41 AM Eastern Standard Time,
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<<  He wears his old Ren. Faire clothes when he goes to Ren.
 Faire, and so what if the chair isn't period.>>

Ooh!   He could make it look like a throne!  Instant charisma.

I'll have to look around, but I do believe I saw a book once on fashion
designing for the  wheelchair-bound...  I'll try to find a link and post it
here soon.  I think this a worthy topic.

--Gillian

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: Azelana@aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:35:43 EST
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: piped edges and boning
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

In a message dated 1/2/02 9:56:41 AM Eastern Standard Time,
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< Bias covered cord was used to edge anything boned and fitted>>

Yes, this technique is much easier than attempting to turn a lined and boned
garment.  For anyone wondering how to do this, see the instructions on the
bodice for Simplicity pattern # 8881.  FYI, "bias covered cord" is also
called "piping" in the U.S., and can be found pre-made in the notions areas
of fabric stores.

<< and yes, polyboning is about the only thing you can get in NZ (but it's
not Rigilene) >>

Well, here's a website you can buy steel boning from that seems to ship
internationally.  Good prices, and I've never had a problem with my orders.

http://www.granndgarb.com

--Gillian Tedcastle, "Keeping the world corseted..."


--__--__--

Message: 4
From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 20:39:01 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

On Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:03:36 EST, the following was written in this
electric book by Azelana@aol.com:

>The only quote I knew of was that
>he denied it was a treatise against the atomic bomb (being used in WW II).
>He was quite adamant about that.  We do know Tolkien's work was influenced
by
>his preoccupance with death, however, which resulted from most of his
friends
>dying in the war, when he was only in his 20's.

He was in WWI - In France, I think - he was a Mustard Gas casualty.
His son might have been in WWII, late in the war, IIRC. He was in his
50's during WWII:

http://us.imdb.com/Name?Tolkien,+J.R.R.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{

--__--__--

Message: 5
From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:LOTR - Galadriel's frock.
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 13:27:35 -0800
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com




>I've looked at several stills on the web and in a couple of books and
>it still looks like tacky nylon-lace fabric to me.  Each to their own, of
>course, but I *can't* see a dress in that fabric as being in any way
>attractive.
>
I was thinking of making a purple one in acid peeled velvet over buttersoft
satin.  I've used that kind of velvet before and the textures are really
fun.  But then I really like soft, fuzzy, and purple. ;)

Jennifer

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx


--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 16:39:39 -0500
From: Deb Rand <martyr@gti.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Merveilleuse mockup
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

No Sue, you aren't blind <g>... the one slash after 'com' was reversed.
This is the address:
http://photos.yahoo.com/hatchikohysteria
AND
You have to sign into Yahoo! to view the Bib Front file.
If you don't sign in, that particular file does not come up for
some reason..
Guests aren't allowed, I guess.
Deb R.


> The address works fine for me, but I can't find any folder with that
> name. Am I blind/stupid, or is something else going on? :)


--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Greg and Dianne Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume flicks and violence
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:47:17 -0600
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

I have seen an occasional slasher movie--in my home, with my DH to tell me
when to duck--but the ones that give me nightmares are the ones in which
children are hurt.

OTOH, I read a horror comic when I was eight about a large orange monster
that came out of a closet. Until I left home at seventeen, I could NOT sleep
with my closet door open. For years, I kept a tiny child's rocking chair up
against that door at night. Living in a haunted house didn't help any,
either.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 7:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Costume flicks and violence


> On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Joan Broneske wrote:
> > I can't stand horror or hacker/slasher movies,
> > they give me nightmares,
>
> Speaking for myself -- I have problems with horror movies too, for the
> same reason.  I have no problem with LOTR or Raiders or any of that
> sort of thing; I suppose because I know the 'good guys' win in the end,
> unlike horror movies where almost everyone winds up dead for no
> particularly good reason.  Unfortunately, I do have problems
> with things like the rape scene in Rob Roy, which really has kept me from
> watching the movie again (even though I have it on tape)... a pity,
> because I really do want to go back through it and look at the costumes,
> just for fun.  I started watching it again once, and just kept dreading
> what I knew was coming up -- it spoiled it for me enough that I popped the
> tape out and haven't tried to watch it again since.
>
> I really wish they'd intimated that scene (noises coming from inside the
> cottage, filmed from outside the cottage) rather than showing it plain...
>
> -- Mara
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


--__--__--

Message: 8
From: "Susan" <costumer@dendarii.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:28:39 -0800
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com


It is in the introduction to the first book - at least the one that I have,
a mid 70s version.  But it is WWI that he says it isn't a metaphor for.  It
is suppose to be in protest to the industrialization of the English
countryside that happened after WWI.

Susan Courney

>
> << You know, Tolkien himself said that these books were not, in fact, a
>  metaphor for WWII.  I am not sure where the quote is to be found, but I
will
>  look.
>
>  Margretta
>  (delurking) >>
>
> Hmm, ok.  I'd be interested to read that.  The only quote I knew of was
that
> he denied it was a treatise against the atomic bomb (being used in WW II).
> He was quite adamant about that.  We do know Tolkien's work was influenced
by
> his preoccupance with death, however, which resulted from most of his
friends
> dying in the war, when he was only in his 20's.
>
> Go ahead and e-me privately if you find that tidbit.  I am always up for
> discussion of this profound work of literature.
>
> Thanks,
> Gillian
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:53:35 -0500
From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] listmembermeting
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

Hi Ella-
> Could you post her address to the list? I'm would like it too, and I'm
> sure I am not the only one, especially if she'd do mail order.

 She goes by  the name Silke-Annet her address is:
Dorthesvej 2 Dk-3520 Farum and
her phone is 44-95-05-55. Oh, she does have email (which is
mostly how I was in touch with her), but she seemed somewhat
slow to answer. Probably because she ran most of it through
her son to deal with the English. Her email is:
silke-annet@detail.dk. I don't know how much mail order she
does, but you could certainly ask her.

	-Judy Mitchell

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:59:01 -0500
From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

Susan wrote:
> It is in the introduction to the first book - at least the one that I
have,
> a mid 70s version.  But it is WWI that he says it isn't a metaphor for.
It
> is suppose to be in protest to the industrialization of the English
> countryside that happened after WWI.

	There was a show on PBS  the week before the movie came out
(the show was called "JRR Tolkien") that mentioned that the
only time his experiences in the War come into the book is
in the section about the Dead Marshes and the faces he sees
in them. The show also interviewed Queen Margrethe of
Denmark  because she had written a fan letter to Tolkien
when she read it as a teenager. She found it fascinating how
he involved aspects of sagas and norse mythology, which of
course she was well versed in, and wrote to tell him so. She
also was certain that some of the Elvish seemed to sound
Finnish. In some of his letters he explains that Quenya was
based largely on the sounds of Finnish, while Sindarin grew
from his fascination with Welsh.
	-Judy Mitchell (who will get to see the movie again since I
was given two gift passes!)

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 16:03:16 -0800
From: Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tolkien not WWII?
Repl

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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 23:09:20 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. I don't know, Teddy, but the thought of wrapping my bits up in
any part of my shirt that might shift when I sit down makes me a wee bit
edgy. It might be a fun experience, experimental archaeology-wise, but
something I'll want to try only once (okay, twice if it feels good).
Seriously though, in my experience with shirts, codpieces and
netherbreeches, I have found that I can usually shift everything in such a
way that I can do my necessities and still appear decent afterwards, even
after having a few too many beers and needing to use a poorly lit jakes. I
still swear by netherbreeches, though. I have made boxers and briefs,
based on images of historical examples. and they have always been more
comfortable than just a shirt, although I have been able to manage either
way... Mike T.

Teddy wrote:

> > I was under the impression a guy wrapped his parts in his shirt tail
> > and then put the wrapped package into the codpiece.
>
> That's what works for me (except it's the front of the shirt not the
> back "tails").
>
> Teddy

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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 23:25:18 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Margo, no need to blush. Your friendly neighborhood Barber-Surgeon here
will explain all in a no-nonsense medical fashion. I really don't believe that
the male anatomy was intended to be stuffed into a codpiece. The way that the
codpiece evolved, from a flap which covered the separation of the hose, to the
late 16th Cent, monstrosity, seems to simply be a manifestation of what the
"owner" wished to display rather than what was actually IN the clothing item.
Owing to the information that some later variants were used as storage areas for
ones money, lunch and other valuables seems to leave little room for the "family
jewels", regardless of the paucity of that particular package ( isn't
alliteration wonderful?). Besides, the constriction that would result from such
a position would be somewhat uncomfortable. Suffice it to say that the codpiece
was most probably the most obvious type of window dressing, a sort of
advertisement of masculine proportions, so to speak.  Mike T.



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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:07:36 -0800
Status: RO


I can send something to you directly.  Is a 400K JPG ok for you?
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo 

> Well, darn it, you're right...and I don't "do" yahoo....grump,
> grump....does anyone have another picture of this dress? It sounds
> really pretty.....:-(
> --sue
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 23:11:54 -0600
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> Maybe it's a regional thing. If this is accurate, and at all widespread,
> it would mean a lot of rethinking for me. But the Wise Virgins are about
> as reliable as the Virgin Mary as costume sources, meaning ... sometimes.

Ok, I stumbled across another fullness-from-the-armpit garment today. 
Back in the fifteenth century, and it's a chemise, but it has a bunch of
fullness (pleats? gathers?) right under the arm.  It's in Birbari's
_Dress in Italian Painting_, fig. 28, and I can't find it online
anywhere.  It's a closeup of Griselda in her shift, poor thing.  Birbari
has found enough pictures of chemises with this feature to make her
think it was a common cut.  Could this have any relation?  Seems a bit
of a stretch, but since it fell into my lap today, I thought I would
bring it up.

The more I learn, the more I don't know.
Melanie
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 21:36:13 -0800
Status: RO

>late 16th Cent, monstrosity, seems to simply be a manifestation of what the
>"owner" wished to display rather than what was actually IN the clothing item.

Wishful thinking?  False advertising?

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 21:31:40 -0800
Status: RO

><<  He wears his old Ren. Faire clothes when he goes to Ren.
> Faire, and so what if the chair isn't period.>>
>
>Ooh!   He could make it look like a throne!  Instant charisma.

One of the SCA Barons in Southern California, in the fourth or fifth year
of the SCA, was in a wheelchair.  Dressed up in his Baronial robes and
crown he didn't need to decorate his chair to make it look like a throne.
OTOH, my housemate does lower-class/peasant, which doesn't go with thrones.

>I'll have to look around, but I do believe I saw a book once on fashion 
>designing for the  wheelchair-bound...  I'll try to find a link and post it 
>here soon.  I think this a worthy topic.

I know I saw such a book - a little paperback thing. It could be the same
book, not that I would recognize it now, as there can't be many books on
that subject.

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:50:15 -0800
Status: RO

Quoth DebR:
> You have to sign into Yahoo! to view the Bib Front file.
> If you don't sign in, that particular file does not come up for
> some reason..

Mea culpa. Turns out the "age restriction" was on. Default turns out to be
dont show to the chillins. All better now.

I just took 2 ft out of the back section, swept the borders a little farther
back.  Drat. With all the fabric I took out I could have made the train to
spec.  Looks like the 7 meters would have been just fine, after all.

Quoth Karen:
>(and it's a tricky style to wear if you aren't built like a 12 year old
boy)

But I am!  That's what is so maddening about it.  Measuring the N.Waugh
diagram I see 28-39" at the high waist.  I'm only 31".

Quoth Drea:
>Lovely fabric! I agree with the gathering--if you got rid of the front
>gathers and just put one pleat at either side, pushing the rest of the
>fulness to the back, you'd get a better look.  I used "stroked pleats" to
>make the skirt on my muslin gown.

Giggle. It's just a cheap sari I bought in Singapore over Thanksgiving.  The
real fabric (embroidered lawn or hankie linen batiste) is either
unobtainable here in Japan or frighteningly expensive.  It's so backwards to
do the mockup in silk & the real thing in cotton.  Like I told y'all before
it's all "because Japan is an island".

The single pleat idea is good to make it hang flat at the side. Instead, I
deepened the dart shown the diagram.  Helps that back-sweep effect.   I'll
give the stroked pleats a shot in the real thing. 

Quoth Bjarne:
>When you gather the skirt and  you have sewed it to the bodice, you 
>should make a band inside the bodice to cover the thick gatherring. Make 
>a bend in the band and hide the seam behind the band and the bodice.

Do you mean bias binding? Should it connect to the bodice or just hang
freely?

It's really fun that you're making this one too.  Cant wait to see how yours
comes out.

Thanks one & all for being my on-line sewing circle!
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo

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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:53:23 -0800
Status: RO


> >late 16th Cent, monstrosity, seems to simply be a 
> manifestation of what the
> >"owner" wished to display rather than what was actually IN 
> the clothing item.
> 
> Wishful thinking?  False advertising?

Over-inflated ego?  Testoterone poisoning? A triumph of hope over reality?
--cin giggling in Tokyo
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 22:13:35 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

"Heather" <moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all of the ideas.  One of my biggest problems is getting skirts
> caught in the wheels, especially when I am in a position to us my manual
> chair for the day.  What figures is that I absolutely fell in love with
> Elizabethan and early Tudor just before being stuck in these things, and
> love full skirts, etc.  Unfortunately, I can't even get away with a full
> length tunic, let alone the full stuff.;-p  I guess I could have worse
> problems.;-}

Ah-hah.  Now that's something I can help on.  I occasionally have to use
a cane to walk, and come up against similar problems.  What you really want
is some way to contain the excess skirt so it won't get caught in the wheels.
I have certainly made skirts that have internal ties (similar to 1880s 
hobble skirts but not so confining) that grab up the _back_ of the skirt.
You could certainly make a sort of lacing or straps that would catch up
the back of the skirt and keep it tucked under your knees and calves
while you're sitting in the chair.  It's not 100% period, but neither is
riding around in a wheelchair.  And I decided some time ago that "period"
goes out the window when it gets in the way of my mobility.  

Picture a strap/buckle setup that runs from side seam to side seam across
the back of your calves.  You reach down, buckle (or button or tie) your
strap down tight enough that the back of the skirt no longer drags, make
sure your legs aren't too confined, then off you go.  This actually can 
be combined with the idea of a open-backed garment if you never get out
of the chair during the normal course of an event.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 23:02:37 -0700
Status: RO

Yup. I gots lotsa room in my mail box.
--sue

Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> I can send something to you directly.  Is a 400K JPG ok for you?
> --cin
> Cynthia in Tokyo
> 
> > Well, darn it, you're right...and I don't "do" yahoo....grump,
> > grump....does anyone have another picture of this dress? It sounds
> > really pretty.....:-(
> > --sue
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 23:05:15 -0700
Status: RO

16th century male version of those wonder bras? <g>
--Sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> >late 16th Cent, monstrosity, seems to simply be a manifestation of what the
> >"owner" wished to display rather than what was actually IN the clothing item.
> 
> Wishful thinking?  False advertising?
> 
> Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladder Lacing
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 19:25:12 +1300
Status: RO

> > On the back side of the lacings?  I'm not sure what you mean by this.
> > When the edges to be laced do not meet, the back side of the lacing
> > would also be visible.
> In a photograph that would be true, but sometimes the laces on the
> underside are not shown. (Artist's convention?)

probably not. I say this as I've just copied copiously from the Frei-..
Friedlander book on Cranach. There are two types pf lacing wich has
horizontal lines:
= *and* z shapes, ie both that have been described.

That book is great, it has even *more* images of those half open bodices
that are seen in Christ and the Adulteress and Lucretia paintings. Admitedly
inthose genres, but also more women breastfeeding. Fantastic. I have looked
in the library a multitude of times, why there were *two* Cranach books all
of a sudden I do not know.

Anyway, just to say there are definatly paintings showing both descriptions
of acheiving horizontal lines inthe lacing.
Oh, and there is at least one showing the style in Italian (venetian?)
dress, which shows the stress marks the "ladder" lacing has on the opening.
Ladder lacing really needs very strong boning to prevent the lacing pulling
vertically puckering the opening:
 ___                    ____
(___)                  |____|
(___) rather than |____|
(___)                  |____|

Well strong enough to resist the pull anyway:) seeing as the garments these
are usually found on are firm around the body atthe least.

michaela


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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 23:16:49 -0800
Status: RO



>
>
> > >late 16th Cent, monstrosity, seems to simply be a
> > manifestation of what the
> > >"owner" wished to display rather than what was actually IN
> > the clothing item.
> >
> > Wishful thinking?  False advertising?
>
> Over-inflated ego?  Testoterone poisoning? A triumph of hope over reality?

Art?  "High" Art?


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: kris <ionization@telus.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-cost:  Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 23:26:00 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:34 PM 1/4/02 -0800, you wrote:
>At 07:32 PM 01/02/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> >So, I'm curious.  Did you draft one with neck gussets, or without?  I've 
> been
> >researching and playing with period shirts for a while now, and I've come
>to the
> >conclusion that I like ones with neck gussets much better.  They seem to 
> have
> >been made both with and without, but I find that the neck gusset eliminates
> >pulling and makes gathering to the neckband much easier.  What's your
> >experience?
>
>I used the neck gussets.  You're right, they make the garment fit better,
>and are much more comfortable and durable.  They seem scary to sew at first,
>but once you get the hang of it they're no big deal.

what, exactly, are neck gussets? Is there a pic online that I could see, or 
can someone give simple directions for this jet lagged brain? *S*

kris

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Merveilleuse mockup
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 11:46:01 +0100
Status: RO



Cynthia Barnes wrote:

>
>Do you mean bias binding? Should it connect to the bodice or just hang
>freely?
>
>It's really fun that you're making this one too.  Cant wait to see how yours
>comes out.
>
>Thanks one & all for being my on-line sewing circle!
>--cin 
>Cynthia in Tokyo
>
Dear Cynthia.

Yes bias binding and you could sew it to a linning. But you dont make a 
linning in yours  do you?
Well if you dont, i guess it wouldnt be a good idea to do that.
I can se in your "mock up" that it is really deep in the back ( 
bustline) i didnt realise that. I have to make the back higher because 
of the corset.
And apropos this corset from 1795 even if Norah Waugh says it was worn 
well into the next century, i believe that it was those who didnt follow 
the new fashion. The bustcurve is absolutely just like 18th century, and 
it is not good to make a regency dress.
I have to get another regency corset pattern, i saw one at 5rivers wich 
was good. However i have to finish this dress in 10 days and no way i 
can import a regency corset pattern. Then my costumer has to wear the 
dress without a corset.
Cynthia did you notice that the back is very narrow and bust very big. 
It wants to go into the armscye, (the front bust part)
Have you tryed to wear the mock up? My corset does the same thing. I 
guess you have to pull your shoulders back when you wear this dress.
Ill post pictures when i have finished, promise
Bjarne

>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wheelchair costumes
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 06:19:31 -0600
Status: RO

Try doing a search for Dawn Wells (yes, of Gilligan's Island fame.) She
designs clothing for the physically challenged. Not historical, but you
might be able to pick up some tips.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wheelchair costumes


> ><<  He wears his old Ren. Faire clothes when he goes to Ren.
> > Faire, and so what if the chair isn't period.>>
> >
> >Ooh!   He could make it look like a throne!  Instant charisma.
>
> One of the SCA Barons in Southern California, in the fourth or fifth year
> of the SCA, was in a wheelchair.  Dressed up in his Baronial robes and
> crown he didn't need to decorate his chair to make it look like a throne.
> OTOH, my housemate does lower-class/peasant, which doesn't go with
thrones.
>
> >I'll have to look around, but I do believe I saw a book once on fashion
> >designing for the  wheelchair-bound...  I'll try to find a link and post
it
> >here soon.  I think this a worthy topic.
>
> I know I saw such a book - a little paperback thing. It could be the same
> book, not that I would recognize it now, as there can't be many books on
> that subject.
>
> Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A different perspective on LOTR
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 09:05:51 -0500
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>


> I mean no offense or to be insensitive, but it looks like you have more than
> issues with "gore and ick"!  I can't stand horror or hacker/slasher movies,
> they give me nightmares, but "Raiders of the Lost Ark" causing you to have
> to go to the hospital and "LOTR" making you throw up?  My Goodness!  I don't
> know how I would survive life, if I was that sensitive!
>
It isn't easy.  However, at the tender age of 4, I was thrown from the
backseat of my parents' car, through the windshield, when we were hit
headon by a drunk driver at 70mph, and spent 35 days in ICU, having 5
surgeries, and having my face rebuilt.  I'm talking part of my jawbone,
part of my occipital ridge, ALL my nose cartilage (my nose was gone) etc
are now built of plastic.  I was separated from my mother and lived for
5 months with both arms splinted straight out in front of me because it
was the only way to control my ripping the stitches out and such.
I had great surgeons, and the results are virtually invisible, now that
I'm 42.
The psychologists I've seen have said that anything having to do with
blood brings back all the pain and separation anxieties from that time,
though I have no conscious memories of it.  Personally, I don't mind
living in a G-rated world, and the "sensitization" process is something
WAY too long and painful to think of doing.  I just avoid things that
would upset me.

Jeanne

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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 12:35:36 EST
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       Have you tried having someone make something like the old chain covers 
for bikes?  It should be possible to affix something that would keep your 
skirts out of the wheels.  Wish I were closer, I love this kind of challenge.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Have you tried having someone make something like the old chain covers for bikes? &nbsp;It should be possible to affix something that would keep your skirts out of the wheels. &nbsp;Wish I were closer, I love this kind of challenge.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] what do you think
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 18:49:22 +0100
Status: RO

Now i have finished this 1795 corset i want to use for the dress from 
1803. But i need some help.
What should i do.
This corset is very oldfashioned. The bustline goes all the way down to 
the nipples. The front of the corset is so wide that you have to pull 
your shoulders back to fill it out. I guess the wearer would get the 
right body strukture, but  really?
I think it would be just the right thing to use for those Direktoire 
dresses, but this dress from 1803 is another thing.
Do you think i should give it up and dont make a corset for the dress? I 
dont have a pattern for a real regency dress, and i have to finish the 
dress in 10 days. I think it would be wise to make the dress alone and 
then ask my  lady to whom i am making it, to use a push up bra in stead.
Please what do you think i should do?

Bjarne

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 09:45:06 -0800
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Expanding on this wonderful topic, when my littlest was too young to walk=
, and I wanted to go to merchants row, I had to put her in her stroller. =
 I have FMS, which makes it impossible to keep picking her up and carryin=
g her.  

Her little full skirts kept getting caught in the wheels too.  But I made=
 a tie-on cozy that worked really well, plus being made out of a machine =
wash heavy material.  I went to the local thrift store and got a heavy ty=
pe fabric bedspread (twin?) that draped over the seat, then had enough to=
 drape to the back, and cover the wheels in the front.  It kinda looked l=
ike a 'envelope' across the front.  The back wheels still showed a little=
.

But the cozy made the 'good first impression' test.  I liked this because=
 it kept her skirts from being caught in the wheels, and when it was mudd=
y, the 'splatter' didn't get on her.  It got on the cozy.

I don't think this would work for manual wheelchairs, if the occupant had=
 to the propelling, but it might work if there was an assistant, maybe?  =
I have no experience in this, and would love to learn more. My mom loves =
to go to fairs, and it's easier when she's in a chair.

Gia/Giacinta

----- Original Message -----
From: Cynthia Barnes
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 9:55 PM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Merveilleuse mockup

Quoth DebR:
> You have to sign into Yahoo! to view the Bib Front file.
> If you don't sign in, that particular file does not come up for
> some reason..

Mea culpa. Turns out the "age restriction" was on. Default turns out to be
dont show to the chillins. All better now.

I just took 2 ft out of the back section, swept the borders a little fart her
back.  Drat. With all the fabric I took out I could have made the train to
spec.  Looks like the 7 meters would have been just fine, after all.

Quoth Karen:
>(and it's a tricky style to wear if you aren't built like a 12 year old
boy)

But I am!  That's what is so maddening about it.  Measuring the N.Waugh
diagram I see 28-39" at the high waist.  I'm only 31".

Quoth Drea:
>Lovely fabric! I agree with the gathering--if you got rid of the front
>gathers and just put one pleat at either side, pushing the rest of the
>fulness to the back, you'd get a better look.  I used "stroked pleats" to
>make the skirt on my muslin gown.

Giggle. It's just a cheap sari I bought in Singapore over Thanksgiving.  The
real fabric (embroidered lawn or hankie linen batiste) is either
unobtainable here in Japan or frighteningly expensive.  It's so backwardsto
do the mockup in silk & the real thing in cotton.  Like I told y'all before
it's all "because Japan is an island".

The single pleat idea is good to make it hang flat at the side. Instead, I
deepened the dart shown the diagram.  Helps that back-sweep effect.   I'll
give the stroked pleats a shot in the real thing.

Quoth Bjarne:
>When you gather the skirt and  you have sewed it to the bodice, you
>should make a band inside the bodice to cover the thick gatherring. Make
>a bend in the band and hide the seam behind the band and the bodice.

Do you mean bias binding? Should it connect to the bodice or just hang
freely?

It's really fun that you're making this one too.  Cant wait to see how yours
comes out.

Thanks one & all for being my on-line sewing circle!
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Expanding on t=
his wonderful topic, when my littlest was too young to walk, and I wanted=
 to go to merchants row, I had to put her in her stroller.&nbsp; I have F=
MS, which makes it impossible to keep picking her up and carrying her.&nb=
sp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Her little full skirts kept getting cau=
ght in the wheels too.&nbsp; But I made a tie-on cozy that worked really =
well, plus being made out of a machine wash heavy material.&nbsp; I went =
to the local thrift store and got a heavy type fabric bedspread (twin?) t=
hat draped over the seat, then had enough to drape to the back, and cover=
 the wheels in the front.&nbsp; It kinda looked like a 'envelope' across =
the front.&nbsp; The back wheels still showed a little.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;=
</DIV> <DIV>But the cozy made the 'good first impression' test.&nbsp; I l=
iked this because it kept her skirts from being caught in the wheels, and=
 when it was muddy, the 'splatter' didn't get on her.&nbsp; It got on the=
 cozy.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I don't think this would work for man=
ual wheelchairs, if the occupant had to the propelling, but it might work=
 if there was an assistant, maybe?&nbsp; I have no experience in this, an=
d would love to learn more. My mom loves to go to fairs, and it's easier =
when she's in a chair.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <D=
IV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5p=
x; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> =
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV s=
tyle=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B>=
 Cynthia Barnes</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday=
, January 04, 2002 9:55 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</=
B> 'h-costume@indra.com'</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject=
:</B> RE: [h-cost] Merveilleuse mockup</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Quoth DebR:=
<BR>&gt; You have to sign into Yahoo! to view the Bib Front file.<BR>&gt;=
 If you don't sign in, that particular file does not come up for<BR>&gt; =
some reason..<BR><BR>Mea culpa. Turns out the "age restriction" was on. D=
efault turns out to be<BR>dont show to the chillins. All better now.<BR><=
BR>I just took 2 ft out of the back section, swept the borders a little f=
arther<BR>back.&nbsp; Drat. With all the fabric I took out I could have m=
ade the train to<BR>spec.&nbsp; Looks like the 7 meters would have been j=
ust fine, after all.<BR><BR>Quoth Karen:<BR>&gt;(and it's a tricky style =
to wear if you aren't built like a 12 year old<BR>boy)<BR><BR>But I am!&n=
bsp; That's what is so maddening about it.&nbsp; Measuring the N.Waugh<BR=
>diagram I see 28-39" at the high waist.&nbsp; I'm only 31".<BR><BR>Quoth=
 Drea:<BR>&gt;Lovely fabric! I agree with the gathering--if you got rid o=
f the front<BR>&gt;gathers and just put one pleat at either side, pushing=
 the rest of the<BR>&gt;fulness to the back, you'd get a better look.&nbs=
p; I used "stroked pleats" to<BR>&gt;make the skirt on my muslin gown.<BR=
><BR>Giggle. It's just a cheap sari I bought in Singapore over Thanksgivi=
ng.&nbsp; The<BR>real fabric (embroidered lawn or hankie linen batiste) i=
s either<BR>unobtainable here in Japan or frighteningly expensive.&nbsp; =
It's so backwards to<BR>do the mockup in silk &amp; the real thing in cot=
ton.&nbsp; Like I told y'all before<BR>it's all "because Japan is an isla=
nd".<BR><BR>The single pleat idea is good to make it hang flat at the sid=
e. Instead, I<BR>deepened the dart shown the diagram.&nbsp; Helps that ba=
ck-sweep effect.&nbsp;&nbsp; I'll<BR>give the stroked pleats a shot in th=
e real thing.<BR><BR>Quoth Bjarne:<BR>&gt;When you gather the skirt and&n=
bsp; you have sewed it to the bodice, you<BR>&gt;should make a band insid=
e the bodice to cover the thick gatherring. Make<BR>&gt;a bend in the ban=
d and hide the seam behind the band and the bodice.<BR><BR>Do you mean bi=
as binding? Should it connect to the bodice or just hang<BR>freely?<BR><B=
R>It's really fun that you're making this one too.&nbsp; Cant wait to see=
 how yours<BR>comes out.<BR><BR>Thanks one &amp; all for being my on-line=
 sewing circle!<BR>--cin<BR>Cynthia in Tokyo<BR><BR>_____________________=
__________________________<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.in=
dra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUO=
TE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladder Lacing
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 18:01:56 +0000
Status: RO

Hello All

delurking, just to put in my two penn'orth

when straight lacing a corset (17th C)  the laces don't cross at the 
back,  the crossing from one side to the other is all in front of the fabric.

back to lurking again.

Jill


At 19:25 05/01/2002 +1300, you wrote:
> > > On the back side of the lacings?  I'm not sure what you mean by this.
> > > When the edges to be laced do not meet, the back side of the lacing
> > > would also be visible.
> > In a photograph that would be true, but sometimes the laces on the
> > underside are not shown. (Artist's convention?)

Sir Thomas Tyldesley's Regiment of Foote -  Kings Army - being part of the 
English Civil War Society
www.jigrah.co.uk  -  JigraH Resources

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       I think that if you made a correct corset, it was probably meant to 
force the shoulders back.  Look at pictures of the period -- those ladies did 
not slouch over like we do.  If your customer thinks it is too uncomfortable 
let her get her own bra, but it will not give the period look that your 
corset will.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I think that if you made a correct corset, it was probably meant to force the shoulders back. &nbsp;Look at pictures of the period -- those ladies did not slouch over like we do. &nbsp;If your customer thinks it is too uncomfortable let her get her own bra, but it will not give the period look that your corset will.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-cost:  Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 13:51:22 -0600
Status: RO

kris wrote:

>
> what, exactly, are neck gussets? Is there a pic online that I could see, or
> can someone give simple directions for this jet lagged brain? *S*
>

OK, your standard 16th century shirt has a T slit cut for the neckline.  The
crossbar of the T is gathered into a neckband.  A neck gusset is a little
triangular piece that gets sewn into the ends of the crossbar, making the slit
slightly more circular and one continuous piece instead of two fronts and a back.
Clear as mud?

For a look at a period shirt pattern (from Arnold), go to:
http://home.earthlink.net/~magdlena/shirt/images/BlackworkShirtPattern2_a2.jpg

-Magdalena



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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 10:59:52 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

So, I was looking at a picture of a Jane Seymour
portrait I have framed in my sewing room
<http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/gallery/1536.html>
and thinking that the dress looked like velveteen (in
my print at least), and then I thought that of any
time of the year to try and buy velveteen, now might
be a good one, because stores will theoretically be
clearancing their stocks they had for holiday
projects.  And I thought "hey, I might want to do a
Tudor dress within the next year - I should go buy
some velveteen!"

But the thing is, so far I really don't know much
about Tudor.  Is velveteen really as good a choice as
it seems to me?  How much should I buy to make sure I
have enough for the main part of a dress? (I'm not
exceptionally huge or anything.)

Thanks for supporting my fabric-buying addiction!

-Angela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 13:57:07 -0600
Status: RO

Chris Laning wrote:

> He pointed
> out that, if a shirt is merely gathered into the neckline at the
> back, there is extra fullness at the upper back shoulder line that
> tends to migrate toward the front, causing the sleeves to twist. This
> tightens the shirt in the upper arm area, which he finds
> uncomfortable.
>
> Anyone else have this experience?

Chris,

    Have you tried gathering more compactly at center back?  I measure the neck,
the back of the neck, and the front of the neck.  When I gather to a neckline, I
make sure that the back half of the shirt is gathered to the back of the neck
measurement.  (Otherwise it _really_ twists).  I also gather unevenly, with the
majority of the material for the back gathered tightly to center back and the
gathers gradually loosening as they head toward the shoulders.  Make sense?

-Magdalena

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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 21:20:53 +0100
Status: RO

I juat read that the Italians has found another old city near Vesuvius 
vulcan. It is near the city Nola and it is older than Pompei and 
Herculanum. It is burried of the Vulcans ashes just like the other 
cities and it is 4000 years old.
The Experts expect Vesuvius to get another eruption just as powerfull as 
the one that destroyed the cities within 20 years. I am glad that i dont 
live in Neples.

Bjarne

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 11:14:03 -0800
Status: RO

Yesterday, I received a package from my family containing the gifts
they forgot to send with the first two Christmas packages.  These
include a hand-knitted garment from my brother, which, I must admit,
stumps me.

Tearing my husband away from our mutual scientific pursuit of trying
to identify our species of ant so we can buy the correct traps (our
current ant "restaurants" are patronized only by B-list ants), I asked

his opinion.  He thinks it is a sweater for a python--a python whose
color chart recommends a combination of charcoal gray, ivory, and
black in stripes.  Though the shape and size of the garment favor this

theory, my brother knows we don't own a python.

Reminding myself that it's the duty of a writer on technical subjects
to boldy confront mysterious objects and procedures without the
support of a user manual, I analyzed the garment.  Specs: Hand
knitted, about 4 3/4  feet long and 1 foot wide (the knit's elasticity

makes it hard to measure, and like all knits it can stretch larger).
About 15 inches on each end sewn into a tube.  The middle not sewn
into a tube, though tending to curl inwards.  A muffler?  Possibly,
though a rather long and large one.  Seam facing outward for about 6
1/2 inches on each tubular end, indicating that end is designed to be
turned up, especially since one end bears a contrasting label reading
"smith & hone."  Sleeves?  I put an arm into each end.  This resulted
in a garment with two rather short sleeves and large turned-up cuffs,
with the nontubular part hanging like a stole across my back.

So I know how to wear it . . . maybe.  What I don't know is what it's
called, and more importantly, what to wear it _with_.  Is this
sportswear?  Evening wear?  Is it worn over long-sleeved,
short-sleeved, or sleeveless garments?  Over dresses or ??  It seems
to be more of an accessory than for functional warmth--but with
fashion you never know.

Whatever the Knitted Thing is, it's sure to be trendy in Manhattan.
My brother never gives me anything that's not trendy in Manhattan. It
may also be expensive, since his gifts tend to be. The sequined
evening purse he gave me looks like the sequins were applied with
nanotechnology that went out of control.

So--can any New York fashion mavens on the list help me?

Fran
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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As a totally fashion challenged person, this is not my area of expertise, but 
I was fascinated.  Take a look at this website and see if you can get some 
help here. <A HREF="http://www.sowear.com/designers/smith_hone/look.html">Fashion Designer: Smith & Hone</A> 

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>As a totally fashion challenged person, this is not my area of expertise, but I was fascinated. &nbsp;Take a look at this website and see if you can get some help here. <A HREF="http://www.sowear.com/designers/smith_hone/look.html">Fashion Designer: Smith &amp; Hone</A> 
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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       Was the article in English?  Where can I find more information?  I am 
fascinated by Vesuvius and have visited both Herculanum and Pompeii and 
walked around the rim of the volcano watching the puffs of steam venting out 
of it.  That wasn't nearly as freightening as the ride down the mountain at 
full speed ahead with a taxi driver who smelled of beer and came to every 
curve with his horn blasting away and seemed to have forgotten where the 
break pedal was.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Was the article in English? &nbsp;Where can I find more information? &nbsp;I am fascinated by Vesuvius and have visited both Herculanum and Pompeii and walked around the rim of the volcano watching the puffs of steam venting out of it. &nbsp;That wasn't nearly as freightening as the ride down the mountain at full speed ahead with a taxi driver who smelled of beer and came to every curve with his horn blasting away and seemed to have forgotten where the break pedal was.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-cost:  Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 17:34:13 -0500
Status: RO

So you need to make the slit wider in order to insert the gusset than it
would have been if there hadn't been a gusset there, right?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Magdalena" <magdlena@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-cost: Wearing 16th Century Shirts


> kris wrote:
>
> > what, exactly, are neck gussets? Is there a pic online that I could see, or
> > can someone give simple directions for this jet lagged brain? *S*
> >
>
> OK, your standard 16th century shirt has a T slit cut for the neckline.  The
> crossbar of the T is gathered into a neckband.  A neck gusset is a little
> triangular piece that gets sewn into the ends of the crossbar, making the slit
> slightly more circular and one continuous piece instead of two fronts and a back.
> Clear as mud?
>
> For a look at a period shirt pattern (from Arnold), go to:
>
http://home.earthlink.net/~magdlena/shirt/images/BlackworkShirtPattern2_a2.jpg
>
> -Magdalena

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fabricaholic tempted by Tudor
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 14:35:34 -0800
Status: RO

Velveteen is perfect, and buy 10 yards.  Ok, I always say buy 10 yards of
anything, but in this case, if you mean Tudor, with the wide turnback sleeves,
you do want to make sure you have plenty, including enough to experiment with.
And don't skimp on the skirt!

Just my tuppence ha'penny, of course.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Angela Kovatch
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 11:00 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Fabricaholic tempted by Tudor
>
>
> So, I was looking at a picture of a Jane Seymour
> portrait I have framed in my sewing room
> <http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/gallery/1536.html>
> and thinking that the dress looked like velveteen (in
> my print at least), and then I thought that of any
> time of the year to try and buy velveteen, now might
> be a good one, because stores will theoretically be
> clearancing their stocks they had for holiday
> projects.  And I thought "hey, I might want to do a
> Tudor dress within the next year - I should go buy
> some velveteen!"
>
> But the thing is, so far I really don't know much
> about Tudor.  Is velveteen really as good a choice as
> it seems to me?  How much should I buy to make sure I
> have enough for the main part of a dress? (I'm not
> exceptionally huge or anything.)
>
> Thanks for supporting my fabric-buying addiction!
>
> -Angela
>


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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] what do you think (1798 corset)
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 14:52:11 -0800
Status: RO


IMO, a push up bra would give the wrong contour line.  How 'bout widely set
shoulderstraps on the corset?  Lots of 18th corsets had straps like the 1793
one in "Corsets & Crinolines".  If you havent already got built-in straps
you could add them with a panel, gromments & ribbon ties. If you do have
straps, perhaps they are just in the wrong place, slightly off angle, too
loose or too tight. (Uck, so many possibilities!)

> The front of the corset is so wide that you have to pull 
> your shoulders back to fill it out.

Re-reading this, I now wonder whether it's actually laced snug enough. Even
with my boyish figure, there's something to squish.  Others, more generously
endowed, might be able to "rearrange their assets" but I've never had this
option.

In truth I'd need to a photo of the wearer, but would understand completely
if she didnt want to be viewed online even by a bunch of caring costumers
such as ourselves.  Quite honestly, I'd like a similar opinion, but have
opted to be coy.
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo 

> This corset is very oldfashioned. The bustline goes all the 
> way down to 
> the nipples. The front of the corset is so wide that you have to pull 
> your shoulders back to fill it out. 

>I guess the wearer would get the 
> right body strukture, but  really?
> I think it would be just the right thing to use for those Direktoire 
> dresses, but this dress from 1803 is another thing.
> Do you think i should give it up and dont make a corset for 
> the dress?> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need ID of Modern Mystery Garment
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 15:07:33 -0800
Status: RO

Thanks!  It's the tube scarf/shrug on this page:

http://store.yahoo.com/sowear/sweaters.html

But to achieve _that_ look, in terms of coordinates, I'd have to
polish my behind.

What are you supposed to wear a shrug with?

Fran

LalahTT@aol.com wrote:

> As a totally fashion challenged person, this is not my area of
> expertise, but I was fascinated.  Take a look at this website and
> see if you can get some help here. Fashion Designer: Smith & Hone
>
> Lalah
> Never Give up, Never Surrender,

--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need ID of Modern Mystery Garment
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 5, 2002 11:14:03 am"
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 15:09:40 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

It sounds like a "thneed" -- you see them a lot in SF.  THey stretch amazingly,
and can be worn over the shoulders [with your head going through the 
hole] -- as a scarf, as a dress [if you are daring] etc etc etc --
or as a bicycle seat cover.

.heather.


> Yesterday, I received a package from my family containing the gifts
> they forgot to send with the first two Christmas packages.  These
> include a hand-knitted garment from my brother, which, I must admit,
> stumps me.
> 
> Tearing my husband away from our mutual scientific pursuit of trying
> to identify our species of ant so we can buy the correct traps (our
> current ant "restaurants" are patronized only by B-list ants), I asked
> 
> his opinion.  He thinks it is a sweater for a python--a python whose
> color chart recommends a combination of charcoal gray, ivory, and
> black in stripes.  Though the shape and size of the garment favor this
> 
> theory, my brother knows we don't own a python.
> 
> Reminding myself that it's the duty of a writer on technical subjects
> to boldy confront mysterious objects and procedures without the
> support of a user manual, I analyzed the garment.  Specs: Hand
> knitted, about 4 3/4  feet long and 1 foot wide (the knit's elasticity
> 
> makes it hard to measure, and like all knits it can stretch larger).
> About 15 inches on each end sewn into a tube.  The middle not sewn
> into a tube, though tending to curl inwards.  A muffler?  Possibly,
> though a rather long and large one.  Seam facing outward for about 6
> 1/2 inches on each tubular end, indicating that end is designed to be
> turned up, especially since one end bears a contrasting label reading
> "smith & hone."  Sleeves?  I put an arm into each end.  This resulted
> in a garment with two rather short sleeves and large turned-up cuffs,
> with the nontubular part hanging like a stole across my back.
> 
> So I know how to wear it . . . maybe.  What I don't know is what it's
> called, and more importantly, what to wear it _with_.  Is this
> sportswear?  Evening wear?  Is it worn over long-sleeved,
> short-sleeved, or sleeveless garments?  Over dresses or ??  It seems
> to be more of an accessory than for functional warmth--but with
> fashion you never know.
> 
> Whatever the Knitted Thing is, it's sure to be trendy in Manhattan.
> My brother never gives me anything that's not trendy in Manhattan. It
> may also be expensive, since his gifts tend to be. The sequined
> evening purse he gave me looks like the sequins were applied with
> nanotechnology that went out of control.
> 
> So--can any New York fashion mavens on the list help me?
> 
> Fran
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need ID of Modern Mystery Garment
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 18:28:34 -0800
Status: RO

on 1/5/02 11:14 AM, Lavolta Press at fran@lavoltapress.com wrote:

> Yesterday, I received a package from my family containing the gifts
> they forgot to send with the first two Christmas packages.  These
> include a hand-knitted garment from my brother, which, I must admit,
> stumps me.
> 
> Tearing my husband away from our mutual scientific pursuit of trying
> to identify our species of ant so we can buy the correct traps (our
> current ant "restaurants" are patronized only by B-list ants), I asked
> 
> his opinion.  He thinks it is a sweater for a python--a python whose
> color chart recommends a combination of charcoal gray, ivory, and
> black in stripes.  Though the shape and size of the garment favor this
> 
> theory, my brother knows we don't own a python.
> 
> Reminding myself that it's the duty of a writer on technical subjects
> to boldy confront mysterious objects and procedures without the
> support of a user manual, I analyzed the garment.  Specs: Hand
> knitted, about 4 3/4  feet long and 1 foot wide (the knit's elasticity
> 
> makes it hard to measure, and like all knits it can stretch larger).
> About 15 inches on each end sewn into a tube.  The middle not sewn
> into a tube, though tending to curl inwards.  A muffler?  Possibly,
> though a rather long and large one.  Seam facing outward for about 6
> 1/2 inches on each tubular end, indicating that end is designed to be
> turned up, especially since one end bears a contrasting label reading
> "smith & hone."  Sleeves?  I put an arm into each end.  This resulted
> in a garment with two rather short sleeves and large turned-up cuffs,
> with the nontubular part hanging like a stole across my back.
> 
> So I know how to wear it . . . maybe.  What I don't know is what it's
> called, and more importantly, what to wear it _with_.  Is this
> sportswear?  Evening wear?  Is it worn over long-sleeved,
> short-sleeved, or sleeveless garments?  Over dresses or ??  It seems
> to be more of an accessory than for functional warmth--but with
> fashion you never know.
> 
> Whatever the Knitted Thing is, it's sure to be trendy in Manhattan.
> My brother never gives me anything that's not trendy in Manhattan. It
> may also be expensive, since his gifts tend to be. The sequined
> evening purse he gave me looks like the sequins were applied with
> nanotechnology that went out of control.
> 
> So--can any New York fashion mavens on the list help me?
> 
> Fran
It sounds like a shrug.  They are are often worn over dresses (especially in
the evening) and lately have been textured (fuzzy) or even sparkley.
They were worn in the 1950's for a time and can be very chic.
Bettina

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In a message dated 1/5/02 6:08:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:


> What are you supposed to wear a shrug with?
> 
       Darned if I know.  I think that sort of thing was popular back when I 
was younger and I found them useless.  Not warm enough to keep you from being 
cold or too warm otherwise
.
Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/5/02 6:08:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, fran@lavoltapress.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">What are you supposed to wear a shrug with?
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Darned if I know. &nbsp;I think that sort of thing was popular back when I was younger and I found them useless. &nbsp;Not warm enough to keep you from being cold or too warm otherwise
<BR>.
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 15:24:16 -0800
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Wow!  How 'bout a Fortuny gown?  It occurs to me, that in all the years I've
known you, I've never seen you in anything other than historicals.
(... and hello to Allan)
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <8d.11f080f9.2968d617@aol.com> <3C378735.86755BC0@lavoltapress.com>
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 00:33:27 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
I would never have guessed what it was, but now i se it, i rather like 
it. Very nice!

Bjarne

Lavolta Press wrote:

>Thanks!  It's the tube scarf/shrug on this page:
>
>http://store.yahoo.com/sowear/sweaters.html
>
>But to achieve _that_ look, in terms of coordinates, I'd have to
>polish my behind.
>
>What are you supposed to wear a shrug with?
>
>Fran
>
>LalahTT@aol.com wrote:
>
>>As a totally fashion challenged person, this is not my area of
>>expertise, but I was fascinated.  Take a look at this website and
>>see if you can get some help here. Fashion Designer: Smith & Hone
>>
>>Lalah
>>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
>>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Subject: [h-cost] LOTR costume details - hobbit women
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 15:37:53 -0800
Status: RO

Here are a few shots of hobbit women from the front:

http://www.fantasyplanet.cz/lotr/picture_show.asp?id=958&obr_url=../gfx%2Fpi
ctures%5Fclanky%2Flotr%5Fgal%5Fvelky%5F2001%5F12%5F15%5F20%5F11%5F10%2Ejpg -
extras 2/ shot
http://www.fantasyplanet.cz/lotr/picture_show.asp?id=736&obr_url=../gfx%2Fpi
ctures%5Fclanky%2Flotr%5Fgal%5Fvelky%5F2001%5F11%5F28%5F9%5F29%5F21%2Ejpg -
girl, hero, full bodice

Went and watched the film again last night with pad and pen.  These pictures
do not do justice to the detailing on a lot of the "hero hobbit" bodices.  A
lot of those had fabric mixes of plaids or stripes with a more solid color.
Seeing these, it's easy to see where they seamed the pieces to shape the
bodices.  The bodices are very colorful with braid edging  the joined fabric
pieces.  There are also colorful tabs across the bodice tops. Another had a
narrow "V" pattern of lacings, couldn't tell if it was false.  Not all the
fancy bodices have square necks, some are shaped, some have cut out in the
front.

Colors examples:  Brown plaid bodice front, green sides, brown trim; red
stripes in the side with lighter colors in front.  These are very obvious
differences and make the bodices very bright... and very fun looking.

Question of all.... I know we're been Off Topic with the LOTR costume stuff,
but I haven't found other groups doing serious discussion.  Is there enough
interest to start a board somewhere for discussion???

-Cat-

Children didn't seem to have bodices, more like jumpers, with a bit of
wings.

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Bjarne, it occurs to me, that since you're doing the same 1803 dress,
perhaps the same corset solution will work for your version.  Corset-less.
I interpret the bandeau under the bib-front (picture #43 N.Waugh) as the
only corset-like thing around.  Since I intended to do Merveilleuse,
corset-less it is. Now a *real* Merveilleuse apparently would go ahead and
show her nipples to the world.  I have an 1801 Italian fashion plate showing
one low-cut gown. The models nipples are not drawn in, but they are colored
in pale pink.  Looks like fruit on a platter. Wish I could show you!  It's
in the storage locker in Calif.
That's all a bit too shocking for me. I chose to put the front neck up just
a tad.  Tho you are right. The CF on mine is too full & in the wrong place.
Back to the drawing board... or the Hanazono shrine antiques flea market.
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo 

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<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=302210000-06012002>Bjarne, it occurs 
to me, that since you're doing the same 1803 dress, perhaps the same corset 
solution will work for your version.&nbsp; Corset-less.&nbsp; I interpret the 
bandeau under the bib-front (picture #43 N.Waugh) as the only corset-like thing 
around.&nbsp; Since I intended to do Merveilleuse, corset-less it is. Now a 
*real* Merveilleuse apparently would go ahead and&nbsp;show her nipples to the 
world.&nbsp; I have an 1801 Italian fashion plate showing one low-cut gown. The 
models nipples are not drawn in, but they are colored in pale pink.&nbsp; Looks 
like fruit on a platter.  Wish I could show you!&nbsp; It's in the storage 
locker in Calif.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=302210000-06012002>That's all a bit 
too shocking for me. I chose to put the front neck up just a tad.&nbsp; Tho you 
are right. The CF on mine is too full &amp; in the wrong place. Back to the 
drawing board... or the Hanazono shrine antiques flea 
market.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV class=MsoNormal><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2>--cin 
<BR>Cynthia&nbsp;<SPAN class=302210000-06012002>in</SPAN><SPAN 
class=302210000-06012002>&nbsp;Tokyo&nbsp;</SPAN><FONT 
face=arial,helvetica></DIV></DIV></FONT></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] LOTR costume details - hobbit women
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f-costume?  some of this group are subscribers.
--cin in Tokyo
> Question of all.... I know we're been Off Topic with the LOTR 
> costume stuff,
> but I haven't found other groups doing serious discussion.  
> Is there enough
> interest to start a board somewhere for discussion???
> 
> -Cat-
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 16:17:41 -0800
Status: RO

My brother, apparently, thinks I'm always going to modern black tie events.  He
says _everybody_ does that in New York.  On the other hand, this beats the
upholstery-cleaning machine he gave me last year.  He thinks I do _housework_?
I'm still trying to think of a way to unload the thing.

Fran

Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> Wow!  How 'bout a Fortuny gown?  It occurs to me, that in all the years I've
> known you, I've never seen you in anything other than historicals.
> (... and hello to Allan)
> --cin
> Cynthia in Tokyo
> _______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR costume details - hobbit women
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 19:38:51 -0500
Status: RO

Cat Devereaux wrote:
> 
> Here are a few shots of hobbit women from the front:
> 
> http://www.fantasyplanet.cz/lotr/picture_show.asp?id=958&obr_url=../gfx%2Fpi
> ctures%5Fclanky%2Flotr%5Fgal%5Fvelky%5F2001%5F12%5F15%5F20%5F11%5F10%2Ejpg -
> extras 2/ shot
> http://www.fantasyplanet.cz/lotr/picture_show.asp?id=736&obr_url=../gfx%2Fpi
> ctures%5Fclanky%2Flotr%5Fgal%5Fvelky%5F2001%5F11%5F28%5F9%5F29%5F21%2Ejpg -
> girl, hero, full bodice

Ok, I'm confused! All I get is something that looks
Czechoslovakian and no pictures. I can't even figure out how
to navigate! The pictures sound great and I'm heading off to
Jo-Mar Fabrics in Philly tomorrow (for anyone in the Philly
area: Jo-Mar is having their 50% clearance sale until Jan
28).

 
> Went and watched the film again last night with pad and pen.  These pictures
> do not do justice to the detailing on a lot of the "hero hobbit" bodices.  A
> lot of those had fabric mixes of plaids or stripes with a more solid color.
> Seeing these, it's easy to see where they seamed the pieces to shape the
> bodices. 
	I know you mentioned this before... do you mean  by shaped
pieces, that the bodice is more of a "princess style" front
rather than a conventional vest that uses darts?

	-Judy Mitchell
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f-costume is really quiet right now.

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http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 7:17 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] LOTR costume details - hobbit women


>
> f-costume?  some of this group are subscribers.
> --cin in Tokyo
> > Question of all.... I know we're been Off Topic with the LOTR
> > costume stuff,
> > but I haven't found other groups doing serious discussion.
> > Is there enough
> > interest to start a board somewhere for discussion???
> >
> > -Cat-
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 19:51:47 -0600
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Just tried to sign up.  Keep getting thre message that my user name (Genie
or kero)is already taken.

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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 18:30:59 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I have one that is just the thing after a dance
practice, when the team goes to a restaurant or
something.  Any time other than actual winter, I just
need something on my arms, and the little bit across
my back is just right.  Of course, mine is not NY Chic
(more like $20 and machine washable), so I don't mind
if it gets kinda sweaty.

-Angela


--- LalahTT@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/5/02 6:08:16 PM Eastern
> Standard Time, 
> fran@lavoltapress.com writes:
> 
> 
> > What are you supposed to wear a shrug with?
> > 
>        Darned if I know.  I think that sort of thing
> was popular back when I 
> was younger and I found them useless.  Not warm
> enough to keep you from being 
> cold or too warm otherwise
> .
> Lalah
> Never Give up, Never Surrender,
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> - - - - - -
> Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy
> Bears at
>
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
> 
> 
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 03:44:35 +0100
Status: RO

Hello, all! All the talk about the merveilleuse gown has made me
remember something: in March I'll be going to an event where I'll be
wearing late 18th century gowns. I've not yet made them and have not
decided on a pattern, although I suppose I'll draft something based on
Arnold. That's not the problem however; what I'm wondering is this: what
fabrics would Regency gowns be made of for winter use? I'm thinking
maybe thin, soft wools, or maybe printed cotton with a flannel
underdress. Or something? It can't be very fancy; I need to look like a
lower middle class type person - but I also need to be warm. :) The
event will last for five days; housing will be in really old houses and
a lot will probably happen out of doors, so staying warm is of the
essence. However, I'm NOT built like a 12-year old, and I would prefer
not to look like a complete walrus if at all possible. (I will of course
be wearing stays, but there's limits to the kind of magic they can work.
;) )

Also, does anyone have any tips about what items of clothing I'll need
apart from the dresses themselves? Are spencers more a summer thing, or
do they work in winter as well? Are there any types of winter coats I
should consider especially? I'd be grateful for any help; I have never
done this period before, and haven't found answers to these questions
anywhere I've looked (mailnly online). :)

Ingrid
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need ID of Modern Mystery Garment
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 21:50:35 -0600
Status: RO

It sounds vaguely like a shrug--I guess they are to be used when the only
thing you want kept warm is your arms..I have seen such an item, I couldn't
tell you about its practicality or lack thereof.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 1:14 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Need ID of Modern Mystery Garment


> Yesterday, I received a package from my family containing the gifts
> they forgot to send with the first two Christmas packages.  These
> include a hand-knitted garment from my brother, which, I must admit,
> stumps me.
>
> Tearing my husband away from our mutual scientific pursuit of trying
> to identify our species of ant so we can buy the correct traps (our
> current ant "restaurants" are patronized only by B-list ants), I asked
>
> his opinion.  He thinks it is a sweater for a python--a python whose
> color chart recommends a combination of charcoal gray, ivory, and
> black in stripes.  Though the shape and size of the garment favor this
>
> theory, my brother knows we don't own a python.
>
> Reminding myself that it's the duty of a writer on technical subjects
> to boldy confront mysterious objects and procedures without the
> support of a user manual, I analyzed the garment.  Specs: Hand
> knitted, about 4 3/4  feet long and 1 foot wide (the knit's elasticity
>
> makes it hard to measure, and like all knits it can stretch larger).
> About 15 inches on each end sewn into a tube.  The middle not sewn
> into a tube, though tending to curl inwards.  A muffler?  Possibly,
> though a rather long and large one.  Seam facing outward for about 6
> 1/2 inches on each tubular end, indicating that end is designed to be
> turned up, especially since one end bears a contrasting label reading
> "smith & hone."  Sleeves?  I put an arm into each end.  This resulted
> in a garment with two rather short sleeves and large turned-up cuffs,
> with the nontubular part hanging like a stole across my back.
>
> So I know how to wear it . . . maybe.  What I don't know is what it's
> called, and more importantly, what to wear it _with_.  Is this
> sportswear?  Evening wear?  Is it worn over long-sleeved,
> short-sleeved, or sleeveless garments?  Over dresses or ??  It seems
> to be more of an accessory than for functional warmth--but with
> fashion you never know.
>
> Whatever the Knitted Thing is, it's sure to be trendy in Manhattan.
> My brother never gives me anything that's not trendy in Manhattan. It
> may also be expensive, since his gifts tend to be. The sequined
> evening purse he gave me looks like the sequins were applied with
> nanotechnology that went out of control.
>
> So--can any New York fashion mavens on the list help me?
>
> Fran
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan  5 22:28:38 2002
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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabricaholic tempted by Tudor
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 03:58:29
Status: RO

Velveteen is a wonderful fabric to make a Tudor dress out of. (It's what I 
used - my wedding dress was a Tudor dress) I purchased over 8 yards of 
velveteen, and we still had to piece the gores. The next time I made the 
dress from a 54" wide linen/cotton blend, I bought 10 yards. No piecing, and 
almost a yard left over. (I didn't make a stomacher for the first dress, and 
haven't yet made it for the second.) My wedding dress had an 18" train on it 
- the second dress didn't.

BTW - I'm not exceptionally huge either. 5'2" and approx. 130 pounds.

Mary/Katerine
(who will Someday get the pics of that dress up on her website)

>So, I was looking at a picture of a Jane Seymour
>portrait I have framed in my sewing room
><http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/gallery/1536.html>
>and thinking that the dress looked like velveteen (in
>my print at least), and then I thought that of any
>time of the year to try and buy velveteen, now might
>be a good one, because stores will theoretically be
>clearancing their stocks they had for holiday
>projects.  And I thought "hey, I might want to do a
>Tudor dress within the next year - I should go buy
>some velveteen!"
>
>But the thing is, so far I really don't know much
>about Tudor.  Is velveteen really as good a choice as
>it seems to me?  How much should I buy to make sure I
>have enough for the main part of a dress? (I'm not
>exceptionally huge or anything.)
>
>Thanks for supporting my fabric-buying addiction!
>
>-Angela
>
>__________________________________________________
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@sound.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR costume details - hobbit women
In-Reply-To: <3C379C9B.AD72D3C8@oldwaylane.net>
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 22:18:42 -0600
Status: RO

At 07:38 PM 1/5/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Cat Devereaux wrote:
> >
> > Here are a few shots of hobbit women from the front:
> >
> > 
> http://www.fantasyplanet.cz/lotr/picture_show.asp?id=958&obr_url=../gfx%2Fpi
> > ctures%5Fclanky%2Flotr%5Fgal%5Fvelky%5F2001%5F12%5F15%5F20%5F11%5F10%2Ejpg
>
>Ok, I'm confused! All I get is something that looks
>Czechoslovakian and no pictures. I can't even figure out how
>to navigate!

The URL is extremely long and has wrapped around onto 2 lines.
Copy and paste the 2 parts together & then enter them in your browser's
location bar.

HTH!

Sheryl Nance-Durst



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR costume details - hobbit women
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 17:02:37 +1300
Status: RO

> I know you mentioned this before... do you mean  by shaped
> pieces, that the bodice is more of a "princess style" front
> rather than a conventional vest that uses darts?

 Not princess styled, but use of vertical panels to acheive shaping, very
little.. mostly tubuler but feminine.. I think to keep them from being
pinned in any historical era.
And no darts. I've not ever seen any darts on her work. In fantasy she has
used cup shaped peices for shaping round the bosom, but even on Cleo I don't
recall darts (except when extras had to provide their own base costume of
course).... I think she doesn't like them:)

This thread is reminding me why I need to get a better agent.. I need to be
out there again working!

michaela

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From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@AlleyCatScratch.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] LOTR - details - link problems
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 20:41:22 -0800
Status: RO


>>Ok, I'm confused! All I get is something that looks
>>Czechoslovakian and no pictures. I can't even figure out how
>>to navigate!

All the links are two lines... you've got to get the whole thing... or to
look at all 600 plus images,
http://www.fantasyplanet.cz/lotr/galeriefilm.asp.  Be careful when you're on
this site, it's not good about going backwards... bookmark as you browse
because sometimes you lose the ability to navigate back to the index.  Some
images are very large... so be patient.

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 01:35:16 -0800
Status: RO

>> > Wishful thinking?  False advertising?
>>
>> Over-inflated ego?  Testoterone poisoning? A triumph of hope over reality?
>
>Art?  "High" Art?

Well, I've seen some which looked like stuffed animals:  roosters,
elephants, and fish, to name a few.  No way do I think those are period.

Kayta
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: LOTR
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 01:54:49 -0800
Status: RO

Time for him to do some reading up on the Tolkien's background.  I heartily
suggest "The Master of Middle-Earth".  Certainly the books have as a good
basic background those arch-types that English and Pre-WWI school children
grew up knowing about.  Not only was Tolkien a professor of languages and
their origins, he was also a child of his times.

Regina

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Joan Broneske
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 1:51 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: LOTR


My husband believes that a lot of LOTR was based on Nordic mythology;
afterall, there is Gandalf (a lot like Odin), elves, dwarves and "little
people" (hobbits).  I can see the similarity, at least in the races of
characters that were used.



                        ,%%%,
Joan Broneske       --==% `%%%,
unicorn@softcom.net     |' )`%%,
                        \_/\ @%%,
                          __@@" %%%--"""-.%,
                        /`__|             \%%
>
> __________________________________________


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] what do you think (1798 corset & Merveilleuse)
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 12:01:58 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Cynthia
You are absolutely right. But my lady is going to a Sct. Petersball in 
London and people i know says she is very shy. No way she would go to 
the ball like that!
I think i make it without a corset! :-)

Bjarne

Cynthia Barnes wrote:

>  
>
> Bjarne, it occurs to me, that since you're doing the same 1803 dress, 
> perhaps the same corset solution will work for your version.  
> Corset-less.  I interpret the bandeau under the bib-front (picture #43 
> N.Waugh) as the only corset-like thing around.  Since I intended to do 
> Merveilleuse, corset-less it is. Now a *real* Merveilleuse apparently 
> would go ahead and show her nipples to the world.  I have an 1801 
> Italian fashion plate showing one low-cut gown. The models nipples are 
> not drawn in, but they are colored in pale pink.  Looks like fruit on 
> a platter. Wish I could show you!  It's in the storage locker in Calif.
>
> That's all a bit too shocking for me. I chose to put the front neck up 
> just a tad.  Tho you are right. The CF on mine is too full & in the 
> wrong place. Back to the drawing board... or the Hanazono shrine 
> antiques flea market.
>
> --cin
> Cynthia in  Tokyo 
>

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 12:05:49 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Ingtid.
In the costume exhibit i saw at Lund, Sweden. There was a quilted winter 
coat for a lady. It was quilted with big pipes at the bottom and along 
the center front opening. It was made in silk but it was lined with wool.
The colour was ice-blue

Bjarne

Ingrid G. Storrø wrote:

>Hello, all! All the talk about the merveilleuse gown has made me
>remember something: in March I'll be going to an event where I'll be
>wearing late 18th century gowns. I've not yet made them and have not
>decided on a pattern, although I suppose I'll draft something based on
>Arnold. That's not the problem however; what I'm wondering is this: what
>fabrics would Regency gowns be made of for winter use? I'm thinking
>maybe thin, soft wools, or maybe printed cotton with a flannel
>underdress. Or something? It can't be very fancy; I need to look like a
>lower middle class type person - but I also need to be warm. :) The
>event will last for five days; housing will be in really old houses and
>a lot will probably happen out of doors, so staying warm is of the
>essence. However, I'm NOT built like a 12-year old, and I would prefer
>not to look like a complete walrus if at all possible. (I will of course
>be wearing stays, but there's limits to the kind of magic they can work.
>;) )
>
>Also, does anyone have any tips about what items of clothing I'll need
>apart from the dresses themselves? Are spencers more a summer thing, or
>do they work in winter as well? Are there any types of winter coats I
>should consider especially? I'd be grateful for any help; I have never
>done this period before, and haven't found answers to these questions
>anywhere I've looked (mailnly online). :)
>
>Ingrid
>_______________________________________________
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-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 15:56:54 +0100
Status: RO

Hey would you know. I have had a request from a 46 year old man, if i 
would make him a large, large dress! :-) I think it could be fun.

Bjarne

 Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: color marketing group
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 19:43:05 +0000
Status: RO

I wish nobody bothered matching things, and then maybe we could get
colours we like.  Who will end the rule of pink, purple and powder blue?
I'm an autumn person, for goodness' sake!

JEan


In message <B85929AB.9F9%gailscott@eos.net>, Gail & Scott Finke
<gailscott@eos.net> writes
>
>
>The Color Marketing Group is, in my opinion, a giant scam. They "forecast"
>colors for the coming year, colors which they also happen to make available
>to paying customers. Everyone has to use them, because if you don't, then
>your stuff doesn't match everyone else's stuff. Your carpet lines don't
>match the current upholstery fabrics, for instance, or your car upholstery
>vinyl doesn't match the available car paint colors. And they're not cheap!
>
>Yes, I have a rather violent opinion of them, and yes, it is an informed
>opinion. I have worked in the graphic design field for more than a decade,
>and I have interviewed "forecasters" and gone to seminars they put on. IMHO,
>it's a terrible trick!
>
>Gail Finke
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 09:44:51 2002
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
To: costume list <h-costume@net.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 12th Century English Costume
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 07:13:44 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Headgear question for above (noblewoman's attire):

Must there be a fillet-thing, or can I get by with
just the barbette & veil?  If there is a fillet, can
it just be a stiffened circle of the same 1-1/2" trim
used on the over-tunic?  What exactly holds the fillet
onto your head -- is it just sitting there or fastened
down somehow?

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 10:50:15 -0600
Status: RO

The shrug or the cleaner? *L*

Katie

Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
> My brother, apparently, thinks I'm always going to modern black tie events.  He
> says _everybody_ does that in New York.  On the other hand, this beats the
> upholstery-cleaning machine he gave me last year.  He thinks I do _housework_?
> I'm still trying to think of a way to unload the thing.
> 
> Fran
> 
> Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> > Wow!  How 'bout a Fortuny gown?  It occurs to me, that in all the years I've
> > known you, I've never seen you in anything other than historicals.
> > (... and hello to Allan)
> > --cin
> > Cynthia in Tokyo
> > _______________________________________________
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 09:03:08 -0800
Status: RO

Defniitely the cleaner.

Fran

Katie wrote:

> The shrug or the cleaner? *L*
>
> Katie
>
> Lavolta Press wrote:
> >
> > My brother, apparently, thinks I'm always going to modern black tie events.  He
> > says _everybody_ does that in New York.  On the other hand, this beats the
> > upholstery-cleaning machine he gave me last year.  He thinks I do _housework_?
> > I'm still trying to think of a way to unload the thing.
> >
> > Fran
> >
> > Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> >
> > > Wow!  How 'bout a Fortuny gown?  It occurs to me, that in all the years I've
> > > known you, I've never seen you in anything other than historicals.
> > > (... and hello to Allan)
> > > --cin
> > > Cynthia in Tokyo
> > > _______________________________________________
> >
> > ---------------------------------------------
> > Visit our web pages!
> > Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> > http://www.lavoltapress.com
> > Historic and vintage dance
> > http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 12:17:08 EST
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--part1_121.9ea93e5.2969e094_boundary
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In a message dated 1/6/2002 9:59:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:


> Hey would you know. I have had a request from a 46 year old man, if i 
> would make him a large, large dress! :-) I think it could be fun.
> 
> 

Especially if he's into period drag!


Get paid up front!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/6/2002 9:59:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hey would you know. I have had a request from a 46 year old man, if i 
<BR>would make him a large, large dress! :-) I think it could be fun.
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Especially if he's into period drag!
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Get paid up front!</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 11:24:43 -0600
Status: RO

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> So you need to make the slit wider in order to insert the gusset than it
> would have been if there hadn't been a gusset there, right?
>

No, not at all.  Fold your gusset so that the two equal edges meet (fold starts
at right angle and goes to middle of the long edge).  Fold your body fabric so
that the crossbar of the T slit is at the top.  Slip your folded gusset, fold
down, into the slit.  Sew along the cut edges.  Try it with a piece of paper and
you'll see what I mean.

-Magdalena

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Modern Mystery Garment
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 11:30:38 -0600
Status: RO

My mother made something similiar to this out of cotton knit fabric for
wheelchair bound folks.  Hers was just a straight length of fabric that was
cuffed on each end.

Genie, back to lurk mode now.

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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 12:43:05 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 6 Jan 2002, Lavolta Press wrote:

> Defniitely the cleaner.

Is it a Green Machine? Boy, I'd love one of those, but can't afford it.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 09:36:44 -0800
Status: RO

It's a hand upholstery and carpet cleaner called the Dirt Devil.  But we
have hardwood floors and brocade upholstery.

Fran

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Sun, 6 Jan 2002, Lavolta Press wrote:
>
> > Defniitely the cleaner.
>
> Is it a Green Machine? Boy, I'd love one of those, but can't afford it.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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--
---------------------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 11:38:46 -0600
Status: RO

Okay after a years of bugging me, I am going to cut about 3" off my 
daughter's hair.  Her hair is the same color as mine and I will take 
what I cut from hers and use it for the ends of my braid cases. 
*g*



Katie
The blonde finds another short cut...pardon the pun.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wish me luck...
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:52:00 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Best of luck to you!  How old is your daughter?  Mine
is 34 years old now but I still remember some
nightmarish haircutting episodes, mainly involving
styles she wanted that I couldn't do!!..and we won't
even discuss the Halloween she cut all her hair off...

Please please talk to me about braid cases. What did
you make them from?  How do you fasten them to the end
of your braid?  My hair is only a couple of inches
below my shoulders--would braid cases even work for
me?

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"



--- Katie <nejma@tds.net> wrote:
> Okay after a years of bugging me, I am going to cut
> about 3" off my 
> daughter's hair.  Her hair is the same color as mine
> and I will take 
> what I cut from hers and use it for the ends of my
> braid cases. 
> *g*
> 
> 
> 
> Katie
> The blonde finds another short cut...pardon the pun.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 07:30:36 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:01 PM 01/03/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Man I need sleep replace all "threat"s with "thread"
>
>Sorry about that

Actually, that could be pretty funny.  "What threat do I need to go with
this costume?" could be an interesting question if you were playing a heavy
-- assasin, pirate, anything like that ;)

"Hand over your doubloons or I'll slit yer throat!"

"Surrender all your lupines!"

<grin>

-- Mara

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Merveilleuse mockup
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 08:08:46 -0500
Status: RO

<html>
At 12:36 AM 01/04/2002 -0800, you wrote: <br>
<font size=3D2><blockquote type=3Dcite cite>=A0* Uk, too much yardage in the=
 CB
&amp; on the side.=A0 Ironing may help this, but I doubt it. (I laughed
when I looked at it. You can, too!)</font></blockquote><br>
<font size=3D3>I actually think the back looks great.=A0 When I made my
Regency work dresses (one bib-front, one not) last summer, I wound up
putting two knife pleats over each hip, and moving all of the gathers to
the back of the gown, for a more columnar look.=A0 I found that gathers
over the hip really made me look...=A0 hippy.=A0 Moreso than usual, that is.=
=A0
I also gauged the gathers/pleats in back on the light blue gown, which
worked very well to control the fabric.=A0 On the dark blue gown, I used
deep knife pleats on the skirts to put a lot of fullness into the gown
(as much as in the original I was working from, in Bradford), but not
have it look bulky.<br>
<br>
</font><font size=3D2><blockquote type=3Dcite cite>=A0* The bra-like front
closure under the &quot;bib&quot; is very successful. (See photo #43,
Waugh's book.) The forward &amp; upward tug creates clevage without
corsetting.</font></blockquote><br>
<font size=3D3>Cool.=A0 I found it didn't work for me and had to make a
corset, but different body types require different solutions...<br>
<br>
</font><font size=3D2><blockquote type=3Dcite cite><a href=3D"http://photos.=
yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria">http://photos.yahoo.com\hatchikohysteria</a>
the Click the folder &quot;Bib-front Gown 1803&quot;.<br>
<br>
So, questions for you, ladies &amp; gents:<br>
=A0* What else needs work?<br>
=A0* Would you gather the decorated panel (marked &quot;embroidered
panel&quot; in N.Waugh diagr XXXV) or leave it
flat?</font></blockquote><br>
<font size=3D3>What worked for me was to leave it flat, except for two
small pleats/gathers under each breast.=A0 Gathering the full width of the
panel made it bunch up, rather like what you've got here, but having an
absolutely flat panel didn't work either, because it gapped strangely at
the outside of the bust.=A0 I think there's another bib-fronted gown in
either Waugh or Bradfield or Arnold that has this treatment... anyway,
that worked for me.<br>
<br>
</font><font size=3D2><blockquote type=3Dcite cite>=A0* Was the sari fabric =
,
while light in weight, too crisp?</font></blockquote><br>
<font size=3D3>The more I look at it, the less I think so, but
maybe...&nbsp; the suggestion about washing a sample was good, I think.
<br>
<br>
</font><font size=3D2><blockquote type=3Dcite cite>=A0* Should the
&quot;waist&quot; line gathering be ironed
flat?</font></blockquote><br>
<font size=3D3>Either that, or use pleats, and iron them...<br>
<br>
</font><font size=3D2><blockquote type=3Dcite cite>=A0* The whole thing has =
a
&quot;short and dumpy&quot; effect.=A0 How to fix
it?</font></blockquote><br>
<font size=3D3>Pleats, not gathers ;)=A0 The fabric is too stiff for gathers
to work, I think (see below)<br>
<br>
</font><font size=3D2><blockquote type=3Dcite cite>=A0* Other critique?<br>
<br>
That was *supposed* to be my final muslin for an 1803 bib-front gown.=A0
Yeah, I'll probably take some of the excess out of the skirt, then finish
it with a &quot;good enough for Gaskell's&quot; attitude.<br>
--cin<br>
Cynthia in Tokyo </font></blockquote><br>
<font size=3D3>It looks gorgeous.=A0 I think if you gauge the pleats and/or
move most of them to the back, that'll give you more of a columnar
effect, and control the gathers.=A0 I'm very envious :)<br>
<br>
These pictures are dreadful, and the fabrics I used were cotton (for the
light blue) and cotton/linen blend (for the dark blue), but for
comparison, here they are:<br>
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/dkblue.jpg<br>
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/ltblue-front.jpg<br>
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/ltblue-back.jpg<br>
<br>
The wind was blowing when the picture of the light blue dress was taken;
it's not quite so awkward as that, usually.=A0 The dark blue fabric is the
heavier of the two, and I used knife pleats for the skirt on that gown,
as gathers _really_ didn't work -- way too bulky.=A0 If I have time today
I'll have some more pics shot...<br>
<br>
Please post more pics as the project evolves!<br>
<br>
-- Mara<br>
<br>
<br>
</font>
<BR>
</html>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 12:37:03 2002
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From: Katie <nejma@tds.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wish me luck...
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 12:05:50 -0600
Status: RO

She is 14 and she just wants a straight cut to about her shoulders.
Her hair is to the middle of her back.  I have been fobidding her 
to cut her hair telling her that she has beautiful hair.  It is 
thicker then mine and has more golden highlights.  It is sickening, 
but I figured this way we both get what we want.  I get the "real" 
hair ends for the braid cases without coughing up a bunch of money, 
and she gets a hair cut. 

I have an idea for the braid cases, but haven't started on them. 
On this page

http://www.virtue.to/articles/braiding.html

The author talks about using a ribbon as the third strand to 
braid with.  I figured using that would aleaviate some of the 
weight everyone says braid cases put on your hair.  Then 
I was just going to get a yard of fabric and do some embroidery 
and jewel work. Then  hot glue my daughter's hair to the end of 
the braid case.  Sew the braid case closed then stuff it and 
use the 4 strand method on the page above.  

If anyone thinks my theory will not work, please chime in. 

Katie

Joan Garner wrote:
> 
> Best of luck to you!  How old is your daughter?  Mine
> is 34 years old now but I still remember some
> nightmarish haircutting episodes, mainly involving
> styles she wanted that I couldn't do!!..and we won't
> even discuss the Halloween she cut all her hair off...
> 
> Please please talk to me about braid cases. What did
> you make them from?  How do you fasten them to the end
> of your braid?  My hair is only a couple of inches
> below my shoulders--would braid cases even work for
> me?
> 
> Joan Hall
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> 
> --- Katie <nejma@tds.net> wrote:
> > Okay after a years of bugging me, I am going to cut
> > about 3" off my
> > daughter's hair.  Her hair is the same color as mine
> > and I will take
> > what I cut from hers and use it for the ends of my
> > braid cases.
> > *g*
> >
> >
> >
> > Katie
> > The blonde finds another short cut...pardon the pun.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 12:42:56 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 18:09:16 +0000
Status: RO

It's not my period, but I have seen people wearing really gorgeous
winter coats for regency / Jane Austen.  They have the very high waist
and puff at the top of the sleeve, the rest of the sleeve being tight.
They are very flattering, and can look quite imposing and statuesque on
the less-than-waiflike figure.  And you could wear it for modern
afterwards!

Jean

In message <3C37BA13.EAC4266B@studorg.hiof.no>, "Ingrid G. =?iso-
8859-1?Q?Storr=F8?=" <ingridgs@studorg.hiof.no> writes
>Hello, all! All the talk about the merveilleuse gown has made me
>remember something: in March I'll be going to an event where I'll be
>wearing late 18th century gowns. I've not yet made them and have not
>decided on a pattern, although I suppose I'll draft something based on
>Arnold. That's not the problem however; what I'm wondering is this: what
>fabrics would Regency gowns be made of for winter use? I'm thinking
>maybe thin, soft wools, or maybe printed cotton with a flannel
>underdress. Or something? It can't be very fancy; I need to look like a
>lower middle class type person - but I also need to be warm. :) The
>event will last for five days; housing will be in really old houses and
>a lot will probably happen out of doors, so staying warm is of the
>essence. However, I'm NOT built like a 12-year old, and I would prefer
>not to look like a complete walrus if at all possible. (I will of course
>be wearing stays, but there's limits to the kind of magic they can work.
>;) )
>
>Also, does anyone have any tips about what items of clothing I'll need
>apart from the dresses themselves? Are spencers more a summer thing, or
>do they work in winter as well? Are there any types of winter coats I
>should consider especially? I'd be grateful for any help; I have never
>done this period before, and haven't found answers to these questions
>anywhere I've looked (mailnly online). :)
>
>Ingrid
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 12:14:40 -0600
Status: RO

I was thinking about doing an alt "Viking" persona.  I guess that 
would work for that persona....or a Mongol. *L*

Katie

Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> At 11:01 PM 01/03/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> >Man I need sleep replace all "threat"s with "thread"
> >
> >Sorry about that
> 
> Actually, that could be pretty funny.  "What threat do I need to go with
> this costume?" could be an interesting question if you were playing a heavy
> -- assasin, pirate, anything like that ;)
> 
> "Hand over your doubloons or I'll slit yer throat!"
> 
> "Surrender all your lupines!"
> 
> <grin>
> 
> -- Mara
> 
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:17:08 +0000
Status: RO

I'ld like to know who told fashion designers we can all wear orange. Or
lime green. Or fuschia.

Then there are the folks who decided on Spandex for everybody, but that a
whole 'nother story!

			Arlys, who looks best in classic colors
			and simply can't take fashion designers seriously anymore

On Sat, 5 Jan 2002 19:43:05 +0000 Jean Waddie
<anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes:
> I wish nobody bothered matching things, and then maybe we could get
> colours we like.  Who will end the rule of pink, purple and powder 
> blue?
> I'm an autumn person, for goodness' sake!
> 
> JEan
> 
> 
> In message <B85929AB.9F9%gailscott@eos.net>, Gail & Scott Finke
> <gailscott@eos.net> writes
> >
> >
> >The Color Marketing Group is, in my opinion, a giant scam. They 
> "forecast"
> >colors for the coming year, colors which they also happen to make 
> available
> >to paying customers. Everyone has to use them, because if you 
> don't, then
> >your stuff doesn't match everyone else's stuff. Your carpet lines 
> don't
> >match the current upholstery fabrics, for instance, or your car 
> upholstery
> >vinyl doesn't match the available car paint colors. And they're not 
> cheap!
> >
> >Yes, I have a rather violent opinion of them, and yes, it is an 
> informed
> >opinion. I have worked in the graphic design field for more than a 
> decade,
> >and I have interviewed "forecasters" and gone to seminars they put 
> on. IMHO,
> >it's a terrible trick!
> >
> >Gail Finke
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] what do you think (1798 corset & Merveilleuse)
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 13:30:19 -0500
Status: RO


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Hi, All. Cyn, I think that the corsetless look was just what the fashion
of that time was trying to create, what with the raised waistline. The
rise of Neo-Classical forms was followed both on architecture as well as
dress. When Ken Russell did his movie "Gothic", I think he was trying to
portray the Shelleys and Byron as historical Hippies, looking for
freedom from conformity (Perhaps a sort of early 19th cent. bra burning,
although they didn't create the style, they just followed it). Some of
the paintings of women of that time are similar to the amount of flesh
shown in Botticelli paintings. Sorry, not trying to use a movie as
documentation or anything, just noting Russell's attempt to get inside
the heads of some historical figures of the time. BTW, I think his
costume person did a great job with the movie, considering some of his
other films (although that is not my period of interest) Ramblingly
yours, Mike T.

Cynthia Barnes wrote:

>   Bjarne, it occurs to me, that since you're doing the same 1803
> dress, perhaps the same corset solution will work for your version.
> Corset-less.  I interpret the bandeau under the bib-front (picture #43
> N.Waugh) as the only corset-like thing around.  Since I intended to do
> Merveilleuse, corset-less it is. Now a *real* Merveilleuse apparently
> would go ahead and show her nipples to the world.  I have an 1801
> Italian fashion plate showing one low-cut gown. The models nipples are
> not drawn in, but they are colored in pale pink.  Looks like fruit on
> a platter. Wish I could show you!  It's in the storage locker in
> Calif.That's all a bit too shocking for me. I chose to put the front
> neck up just a tad.  Tho you are right. The CF on mine is too full &
> in the wrong place. Back to the drawing board... or the Hanazono
> shrine antiques flea market.
> --cin
> Cynthia in Tokyo
>

--------------8E6D5A0FBDA19424EF7B6BE0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Hi, All. Cyn, I think that the corsetless look was just what the fashion
of that time was trying to create, what with the raised waistline. The
rise of Neo-Classical forms was followed both on architecture as well as
dress. When Ken Russell did his movie "Gothic", I think he was trying to
portray the Shelleys and Byron as historical Hippies, looking for freedom
from conformity (Perhaps a sort of early 19th cent. bra burning, although
they didn't create the style, they just followed it). Some of the paintings
of women of that time are similar to the amount of flesh shown in Botticelli
paintings. Sorry, not trying to use a movie as documentation or anything,
just noting Russell's attempt to get inside the heads of some historical
figures of the time. BTW, I think his costume person did a great job with
the movie, considering some of his other films (although that is not my
period of interest) Ramblingly yours, Mike T.
<p>Cynthia Barnes wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;&nbsp;<span class=302210000-06012002><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Bjarne,
it occurs to me, that since you're doing the same 1803 dress, perhaps the
same corset solution will work for your version.&nbsp; Corset-less.&nbsp;
I interpret the bandeau under the bib-front (picture #43 N.Waugh) as the
only corset-like thing around.&nbsp; Since I intended to do Merveilleuse,
corset-less it is. Now a *real* Merveilleuse apparently would go ahead
and show her nipples to the world.&nbsp; I have an 1801 Italian fashion
plate showing one low-cut gown. The models nipples are not drawn in, but
they are colored in pale pink.&nbsp; Looks like fruit on a platter. Wish
I could show you!&nbsp; It's in the storage locker in Calif.</font></font></span><span class=302210000-06012002><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>That's
all a bit too shocking for me. I chose to put the front neck up just a
tad.&nbsp; Tho you are right. The CF on mine is too full &amp; in the wrong
place. Back to the drawing board... or the Hanazono shrine antiques flea
market.</font></font></span>
<div class=MsoNormal><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>--cin</font></font>
<br><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Cynthia&nbsp;<span class=302210000-06012002>in</span><span 
class=302210000-06012002>
Tokyo&nbsp;</font></font></span></div>
</blockquote>
</html>

--------------8E6D5A0FBDA19424EF7B6BE0--

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From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A different perspective on LOTR
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 10:49:05 -0800
Status: RO

I see!...well, that's puts a bit of a different spin on it, eh?  Sorry to
hear that you had to go through all of that.

Joan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeanne Harney" <jeanne@parrotfantasy.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A different perspective on LOTR


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
>
> > I mean no offense or to be insensitive, but it looks like you have
> more than
> > issues with "gore and ick"!  I can't stand horror or hacker/slasher
> movies,
> > they give me nightmares, but "Raiders of the Lost Ark" causing you to
> have
> > to go to the hospital and "LOTR" making you throw up?  My Goodness!  I
> don't
> > know how I would survive life, if I was that sensitive!
> >
> It isn't easy.  However, at the tender age of 4, I was thrown from the
> backseat of my parents' car, through the windshield, when we were hit
> headon by a drunk driver at 70mph, and spent 35 days in ICU, having 5
> surgeries, and having my face rebuilt.  I'm talking part of my jawbone,
> part of my occipital ridge, ALL my nose cartilage (my nose was gone) etc
> are now built of plastic.  I was separated from my mother and lived for
> 5 months with both arms splinted straight out in front of me because it
> was the only way to control my ripping the stitches out and such.
> I had great surgeons, and the results are virtually invisible, now that
> I'm 42.
> The psychologists I've seen have said that anything having to do with
> blood brings back all the pain and separation anxieties from that time,
> though I have no conscious memories of it.  Personally, I don't mind
> living in a G-rated world, and the "sensitization" process is something
> WAY too long and painful to think of doing.  I just avoid things that
> would upset me.
>
> Jeanne
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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I know more about early 19th century than late 18th, but I would say you 
could definitely wear a spencer--the late 18th c. style seems to have a 
really contoured sleeve.  also, the Lady of Distinction recommended a flannel 
(that is, wool) petticoat for English winters.  The dress itself should 
probably be cotton or linen.  Someone else might have a better idea of how 
common wool fabrics were in this period.
And of course you can wrap yourself in a shawl.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I know more about early 19th century than late 18th, but I would say you could definitely wear a spencer--the late 18th c. style seems to have a really contoured sleeve.&nbsp; also, the Lady of Distinction recommended a flannel (that is, wool) petticoat for English winters.&nbsp; The dress itself should probably be cotton or linen.&nbsp; Someone else might have a better idea of how common wool fabrics were in this period.<BR>
And of course you can wrap yourself in a shawl.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@sound.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wish me luck...
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 14:46:50 -0600
Status: RO

At 12:05 PM 1/6/02 -0600, you wrote:
>She is 14 and she just wants a straight cut to about her shoulders.
>Her hair is to the middle of her back.  I have been fobidding her
>to cut her hair telling her that she has beautiful hair.  It is
>thicker then mine and has more golden highlights.  It is sickening,
>but I figured this way we both get what we want.  I get the "real"
>hair ends for the braid cases without coughing up a bunch of money,
>and she gets a hair cut.

Katie,
Don't stress too much, please.
I had my mom do EXACTLY the same thing at that age!
There was a heat wave that year. <grin>
My mom ended up liking it so much that when I eventually
decided to grow my hair long again, she tried to talk me out
of it!

Sheryl Nance-Durst

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wish me luck...
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 14:59:47 -0600
Status: RO

Well just like every other "mom/teenager" senario, she will just have to 
learn on her own that
when we "round faced" people have short hair it looks like we have a 
perminate case of
the mumps or we are forever mimicing a squirrel with cheeks full of 
nuts. *LOL*

Katie
*just installed Netscape 6.2.1 and can't find the spell check for 
mail...panic panic!!*

Sheryl Nance-Durst wrote:

>
> Katie,
> Don't stress too much, please.
> I had my mom do EXACTLY the same thing at that age!
> There was a heat wave that year. <grin>
> My mom ended up liking it so much that when I eventually
> decided to grow my hair long again, she tried to talk me out
> of it!
>
> Sheryl Nance-Durst
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Yet another take on LOTR...
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:28:35 EST
Status: RO

When did Tolkein become anything to do with history? I've not seen the movie 
yet and don't want to read a spoiler on it therefore am deleting the whole 
thread. I've also realized that I've deleted MOST of what comes into my 
mailbox from this list over the past few weeks. Is is possible to kill the 
fantasy thread and come up with something that has to do with Historical 
clothing??? I know it's fun and fascinating to talk about but there are more 
appropriate forums.
Warning historical costume content-Eleanora di Toledo's pair of bodyes is of 
tan silk moire, the strips we have always thought were garters are, in 
actuality, the grave bindings.
Have a Lovely Day,
Lady G
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 12th Century English Costume
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 21:39:38 +0000
Status: RO

I've found plenty pictures of women wearing veils without fillets.  I'm
not sure whether all fillets are actually coronets, or similar
denotations of rank, or just fashion, but they're definitely not
required to keep the veil on.

I don't think I've seen any period examples where the fillet looks like
trim - they're usually either a plain band which might be metal or might
be ribbon, or if they're decorated they look like metalwork.  This would
make sure it stays on, just by its own weight.  But it depends how
accurate you want to be, lots of people nowadays do it with trim.  You
just need to find a way of fixing it tight enough round your head that
it stays on - tied or pinned or velcro or whatever.  One word of warning
- if it's windy, and your veil flies, it will lift the fillet unless
it's really secure.

JEan

In message <20020106151344.56167.qmail@web20310.mail.yahoo.com>, Joan
Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes
>Headgear question for above (noblewoman's attire):
>
>Must there be a fillet-thing, or can I get by with
>just the barbette & veil?  If there is a fillet, can
>it just be a stiffened circle of the same 1-1/2" trim
>used on the over-tunic?  What exactly holds the fillet
>onto your head -- is it just sitting there or fastened
>down somehow?
>
>Joan Hall
>"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
>"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 16:14:01 2002
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 12th Century English Costume
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 21:39:38 +0000
Status: RO

I've found plenty pictures of women wearing veils without fillets.  I'm
not sure whether all fillets are actually coronets, or similar
denotations of rank, or just fashion, but they're definitely not
required to keep the veil on.

I don't think I've seen any period examples where the fillet looks like
trim - they're usually either a plain band which might be metal or might
be ribbon, or if they're decorated they look like metalwork.  This would
make sure it stays on, just by its own weight.  But it depends how
accurate you want to be, lots of people nowadays do it with trim.  You
just need to find a way of fixing it tight enough round your head that
it stays on - tied or pinned or velcro or whatever.  One word of warning
- if it's windy, and your veil flies, it will lift the fillet unless
it's really secure.

JEan

In message <20020106151344.56167.qmail@web20310.mail.yahoo.com>, Joan
Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes
>Headgear question for above (noblewoman's attire):
>
>Must there be a fillet-thing, or can I get by with
>just the barbette & veil?  If there is a fillet, can
>it just be a stiffened circle of the same 1-1/2" trim
>used on the over-tunic?  What exactly holds the fillet
>onto your head -- is it just sitting there or fastened
>down somehow?
>
>Joan Hall
>"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
>"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 16:44:35 2002
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yet another take on LOTR...
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 17:12:24 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

> When did Tolkein become anything to do with history?

Tolkien has a lot to do with history.  He was a professor of Anglo-Saxon
literature and a linguist, and his works reflect his studies.  They're not
history--but they're a very interesting example of how a knowledge of period
literature can influence a modern story.

>Is is possible to kill the
> fantasy thread and come up with something that has to do with Historical
> clothing???

So start one already! :-)  I'm sure you'll have lots of takers.

Susan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 23:01:03 -0000
Status: RO

Some of the provancel quilted skirt stuff might be nice. But it isn't high
waisted really.

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: shrugs
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 18:06:44 -0500
Status: RO

As to what to wear them with or why?  Basically, any time you could wear a shawl, you could wear an equivalent "shrug".  I've even seen a few designer type varients... can't remember how long ago... where it (obviously) wasn't called a shrug, but went over the shoulders, down to cuffed wrists, and draped
"elegantly" down to near knee length.  Last time I saw one, it was black... I *think* paired with either a grey or silver slim skirted dress... that was also draped side to side ... sort of bunting style?  (don't know how you describe it... think that short piece in the front of some of the styles that
were worn on bustled skirts way back when... ... now that I think of it, the skirt may have resembled that, slim with the drape in front, but only to mid/upper thigh or so)

Problem with odd pictoral memories that pop up... you can almost but not *quite* see what you're remembering...

-Elisabeth

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Yet another take on LOTR...large can of worms
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 18:11:28 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 6/1/02 4:17:27 PM, nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:
<< Tolkien has a lot to do with history.  He was a professor of Anglo-Saxon 
literature and a linguist, and his works reflect his studies.  They're not

history--but they're a very interesting example of how a knowledge of period 
literature can influence a modern story. >>

Okay let's rephrase this-what has a fantasy movie set in no where land/no 
when time got to do with historical costuming? I was referring to the Rings 
movie rather than the man himself.
>>So start one already! :-)<<
As my first attempt with the Eleanora items went flat-Here are a few others.
Where does one currently obtain cloth of gold or cloth of silver? If I was 
still in NYC I'd know where to go but not here. Ditto non mylar metallic gold 
and/or silver trims, When are Janet Arnold's new books coming out, what's the 
strangest thing you've heard of concerning garb that is so blatantly 
obvoiusly false (ie "they didn't use ____") and how did you find the correct 
information out, what's the earliest use of an indoor water closet anyone can 
come up with, if the pile on "silk" velvet is rayon/acetate/poly on a silk 
ground and most mundane rayon velvets have a rayon pile what difference would 
it really make to use the rayon velvet (shiny velvet did exist as did shiny 
silk, high shine like way rad nasty bridal satin) {outside of competitions of 
course}, where's a site on Elizabethan stumpwork [for use on clothing not on 
boxes or books I found those], can anyone explain blackwork paths to me in a 
way I can understand? I end up with a mess every time I try and can't find a 
teacher near enough to physically show me what to do, I need 3 pair of slouch 
boots or chukka boots in various colours for a 3 y/o (I found the ones for my 
8 y/o son but nothing small enough for my daughter) any clue as to where to 
get them?, how do I get my husband to wear a fitted doublet? he says he wants 
a doublet then doesn't want it "binding" him, why is it that most of the 
ostrich plume fans look like feather dusters with a staple in the cone part?, 
even plain brown sandals are better than Reboks on a kid in garb (pet peeve), 
I'll post more as I think of them.
I'm in process of making a garnet/black shot silk taffeta version of the 
brown velvet Isabella queen of Portugal gown on Drea's site. The chemise is 
of silk organza with pouffed sleeves with 4mm 14kt gold beads in the poufs on 
the "yoke", the gown lining is black silk taffeta and the trim is 2 inch wide 
gold silk organza ribbon with cultured pearls, the smock is of white silk 
organdy. Another project is the red Anne of Cleves gown made of a 
turquoise/semi-metallic gold shot brocade (for lack of a better term-the 
fabric has the same iridescence as shot silk) with semi-metallic gold 
companion fabric with semi-metallic gold twist trim, lots of beads and pearls.
Hopefully there are enough topics there to let people choose.
In Service,
Lady G
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 17:53:29 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] merverilleuse muck up
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 00:25:40 +0100
Status: RO

Cynthia.
I finished the muslin model of my dress this evening.
But, you know me i cant deside to the model. It is very hard for me not 
to make some of my own design to a garment.
So my merveilleuse dress ended up like this:
The skirt is the same, only i have a seam in the middle of the back 
because i made my model to be laced in the back. I didnt make the bodice 
like the real thing. I made a small back panel and one big forepart 
bodice. Then i have gathered the bodice at the skirt line under each bust.
The sleve is very flattering so i have only made small changes. I dont 
have a cuff. In stead i have gathered the chiffon to a rose in the 
middle of the sleave where the gathers spread out in pleats like a sun. 
This is the only embellishment i have made.
It is a very beautifull dress. I really like the simplissity, so nice. 
Also because the dress is white.
Now here comes a question. Should i make a handle in the train so that 
my lady can danse in it?
How would you suggest i made that?

Bjarne

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Not LOTR (was: Yet another take on LOTR)
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 19:01:00 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 6 Jan 2002 LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
<requesting a return to historic-costume topics instead of LOTR:>

> As my first attempt with the Eleanora items went flat-Here are a few
> others.
<snip about a dozen unrelated topic suggestions>
> Hopefully there are enough topics there to let people choose.

Lady G., as you have already pointed out, some people with no interest in
LOTR are deleting those threads. So your Eleanora topic and the others you
posted may not reach the people you're trying to reach, since you posted
them under an LOTR subject line.

Also, it would be a service to the list in both the short- and long-term
if you would open new threads with individual posts, under separate,
descriptive subject lines. In the short term, you will get much better
response -- I am sure I am not the only person who deletes posts based on
subject line when my reading time is short, and I will miss queries that
are batched under a subject line that relates to a period I don't do. In
the long term, you will gain the gratitude of people who use Eric P.'s
archive, now that it's searchable *only* by subject line and author, not
through a free-text search (a loss I lament).

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] QEII
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 17:47:56 -0600
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Has anyone seen the dresses of Queen Elizabeth II that are currently =
displayed in Bath "up close and personal"?  If so, please give us a =
personal view.  Which, if any, struck you as one that historical =
costumers four hundred years from now might want to examine?  Which ones =
seem most representative of the "common" person's current lifestyle?  =
Were there any that surprised you in some way?  Were any of such unusual =
coloring or with unique embroidery/ beadwork/jewel encased, etc. that =
they will have interest to needleworkers or seamstresses in the future?  =
Which one would you most like to acquire?  etc.  Tell all, please.

Meg

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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Has anyone seen the dresses of Queen =
Elizabeth II
that are currently displayed in Bath "up close and personal"?&nbsp; If =
so,
please give us a personal view.&nbsp; Which, if any,&nbsp;struck you as =
one that
historical costumers four hundred years from now might want to =
examine?&nbsp;
Which ones seem most representative of the "common" person's current
lifestyle?&nbsp; Were there any that surprised you in some way?&nbsp; =
Were any
of such unusual coloring or with unique embroidery/ beadwork/jewel =
encased, etc.
that they will have interest to needleworkers or seamstresses in the
future?&nbsp; Which one would you most like to acquire?&nbsp; etc.&nbsp; =
Tell
all, please.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Meg</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 18:55:42 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 6/1/02 5:47:08 PM, talk2meg@midwest.net writes:
<< Has anyone seen the dresses of Queen Elizabeth II that are currently 
displayed in Bath "up close and personal"? >>
Come on Teddy-spill.
Lady G
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Subject: [h-cost] Back from Kopenhagen
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 01:01:56 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

Hi all,

For 10 hours now, I am back from my Denmark-Kopenhagen trip and 
now finally found the time to get to the net again. I thought
I'd never catch up with all those h-cost postings. Bjarne has 
posted on it, but I couldn't read it until now! So I REALLY 
for the first time met another member of this list -- and it
was Bjarne!! And it was so wonderful! At first I hadn't thought
that I would make it to Denmark at all because child and partner
both had chickenpox over Christmas. The trip got substantially more
expensive than anticipated, but it was worth it! We met at the
station, Bjarne lead us to a very nice cafe in Kopenhagen where
we had coffee and talked about embroidery, costumes, and lace,
while my good little girl slept in her stroller much of the
time. Bjarne had brought me three photo albums of his work,
so I could look at the costumes he had made for a hairdressers'
show! They were incredible. Really, there is this society in
Copenhagen that really does the most exaggerated, most extreme
18th century hairdos -- and they look perfect, like on old paintings!
And they are lucky, so lucky, to have Bjarne who made the proper
18th century costumes. I don't know what was more impressive --
this huge number of costumes he made for that one event? The
colors? The patterns? The hairdos? 
Some of the costumes are at 
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/embroideryandlace.htm,
like http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/pompadour.jpg

All I had, by comparison, was a picture of the one 1880th costume
I made, the "cotehardie-inspired" dress for a friend this summer,
and a couple of pictures of my own FOs (finished objects). 
Because I knew that Bjarne does gold embroidery, I finally did 
something I have wanted to do since 1998 and put my 
pictures of the gold embroiderers in Bokhara (Buchara) in
Uzbekistan (on the silk road) together to form a small documentary
on Bokharan gold embroidery. The interesting thing is that the gold 
embroidery tradition, basically the techniques, seems to have been
big in Paris and even Berlin, too, in the 18th century -- I once
heard a lecture on this -- but while here it was lost, it 
travelled eastward, served the Emir's court in the 19th century 
and is nowadays revived as a popular art. People really wear
gold embroidery (with metallic thread, but not real gold thread
any more, of course) today for festive occasions; the tradition
is alive. And there techniques are still practiced and passed on
that nobody in Europe seems to care about any more.

Except people like Bjarne! Bullion thread is called ``Kantille'',
in German, too. Yes, he really brought me the gold embroidery he
is working on right now -- the front opening of a 1770th man's
jacket, together with matching buttons. Bjarne has put part 
of that embroidery on the net, under
ttp://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/weeklycostume.htm. I saw
some of the embroidery at http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/goldwork.jpg ,
he also brought some of the buttons at
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/lommeknap.JPG  .

But it is SOO different to really touch this in reality!
For some reason, Bjarne has chosen to state that all he
does is chain stitch. I personally disagree, I have seen
(at least) buttonhole stitch, couching, French knots, and
satin stitch, in addition to chain stitch.

Now, when next time I am in Kopenhagen and have time and am
free to do whatever I want, I will see, at least, in addition
to the National Museum which I like a lot and which holds some
of the most famous treasures of Northern European early history
(http://www.natmus.dk), the costume section of the National
Museum, which is somewhere out of town, the National Gallery,
the Design Museum, the Industry Design Museum, the Rosenborg
Castle, and the architecture museum.  Since in 2 days and with
boyfriend and child, time is so limited, I only made it to
the Rosenborg Castle and the National Museum, where I had a
walk through the "Stories of Denmark" exhibit. Nicely, the two
exhibitions I got to see this way quite complemented each other.
The Rosenborg castle, in addition to holding the royal treasure,
was early designed to be a cultural history museum to
display the lifestyle of the kings through the ages - 
each room on the first floor was furnished and decorated by one
king  and in the fashion of his time. Lots of tapestries that
I tried very much to imagine what they looked like before all the
yellow and red color faded out. The "Stories of Denmark" exhibition
in the Nationalmuseet tells the same story, but not only of kings,
but of all people. It has weapons, household items, clothes and
other textiles and really everything that gives a feel for the
life of the times in Denmark, from 1660 to 2000. I even saw a
very nice Icelandic folk dress, a couple of waistcoats the style
Bjarne is making (yes, very very similar), and a few rolls
of To/nder lace.

At last, Bjarne showed me and Sarah to a lacemaking supplies shop
where I got some more bobbins! Before, I didn't have enough
for the lace class, now, I have way in excess of the required
number.

Thanks Bjarne for a wonderful afternoon!

Now to bed -- tomorrow I have to work again...

Barbara Maren
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 18:39:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Queries, new topics and current projects
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 19:09:15 EST
Status: RO

This is a reposting of my last posting- Thanks, Robin good suggestion!
>>So start one already! :-)<<
As my first attempt with the Eleanora items went flat-{Eleanora di Toledo's 
pair of bodyes is of tan silk moire, the strips we have always thought were 
garters are, in actuality, the grave bindings} Here are a few others.
Where does one currently obtain cloth of gold or cloth of silver? If I was 
still in NYC I'd know where to go but not here. Ditto non mylar metallic gold 
and/or silver trims, When are Janet Arnold's new books coming out, what's the 
strangest thing you've heard of concerning garb that is so blatantly 
obvoiusly false (ie "they didn't use ____") and how did you find the correct 
information out, what's the earliest common use of an indoor water closet 
anyone can come up with, if the pile on "silk" velvet is rayon/acetate/poly 
on a silk ground and most mundane rayon velvets have a rayon pile what 
difference would it really make to use the rayon velvet (shiny velvet did 
exist as did shiny silk, high shine like way rad nasty bridal satin) {outside 
of competitions of course}, where's a site on Elizabethan stumpwork [for use 
on clothing not on boxes or books I found those], can anyone explain 
blackwork paths to me in a way I can understand? I end up with a mess every 
time I try and can't find a teacher near enough to physically show me what to 
do, I need 3 pair of slouch boots or chukka boots in various colours for a 3 
y/o (I found the ones for my 8 y/o son but nothing small enough for my 
daughter) any clue as to where to get them?, how do I get my husband to wear 
a fitted doublet? he says he wants a doublet then doesn't want it "binding" 
him, why is it that most of the ostrich plume fans look like feather dusters 
with a staple in the cone part?, even plain brown sandals are better than 
Reboks on a kid in garb (pet peeve), I'll post more as I think of them.
I'm in process of making a garnet/black shot silk taffeta version of the 
brown velvet Isabella queen of Portugal gown on Drea's site. The chemise is of
 silk organza with pouffed sleeves with 4mm 14kt gold beads in the poufs on 
the "yoke", the gown lining is black silk taffeta and the trim is 2 inch wide 
gold silk organza ribbon with cultured pearls, the smock is of white silk 
organdy. Another project is the red Anne of Cleves gown made of a 
turquoise/semi-metallic gold shot brocade (for lack of a better term-the 
fabric has the same iridescence as shot silk) with semi-metallic gold 
companion fabric with semi-metallic gold twist trim, lots of beads and pearls.
Hopefully there are enough topics there to let people choose.
In Service,
Lady G
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 18:40:29 2002
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From: "Kelly Rinne" <kelly@costumedesign.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] large dress for a man
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 19:10:36 -0500
Status: RO

oh, I used to do drag gowns for men all the time - its great fun. Make sure
you figure out whether or not he plans to do cleavage (breasts)
If he wants to order a set, here in the US Fredericks of Hollywood sells
great silicone-filled sets of two. They look and feel very real, and are
kept on with spirit gum.

Write if you have any questions...

-kel
----- Original Message -----
From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 9:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] large dress for a man


> Hey would you know. I have had a request from a 46 year old man, if i
> would make him a large, large dress! :-) I think it could be fun.
>
> Bjarne
>
>  Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
>
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
>
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 18:48:33 2002
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 at "Dec 31, 2001 03:52:11 pm"
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: LOTR again, quite OT, sorry
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 01:19:22 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

> From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
>  For those who would like a laugh:
> > "Galadriel" means "Blondie", more or less.
> 
> Well, no.  The element "galad" means "tree" and her name essentialy means "tree
> lady", if I recall correctly.

Sorry to be so late answering this, only just back
from Kopenhagen where I met Bjarne. If I recall "The
languages of Tolkien's Middle Earth" correctly,
``galad'' means light (Gil-galad: star-light)
``galadh'' is tree (galadhremmin ennorath, tree-woven
middle-earth) (but galad and galadh are sometimes interchangeable,
``el'' is the female ending in Sindarin and ``riel''
means ``crowned girl'', the ``ri-'' supposedly coming
from a root ``rig'', ``to wind a wreath/crown'', and
put everything together, you have the name for a blonde
baby girl: light-crowned girl, Galadriel, Blondie.
Later in Middle Earth, she became the tree lady, and the
name was reinterpreted.

I hate to be discussing this on h-costume and would feel
better if there was another forum for this for those
who are interested, but I don't subscribe to f-costume
and think I won't just for the purpose of discussing LOTR.

LOL means Laughing Out Loud and ROTFL means Rolling On The
Floor Laughing, what is LOTR supposed to mean? Laughing On 
The Run?

Apart from costumes and violence (there was too much in
in in my opinion, too) (and I hate fighting scenes extra
prolonged in films, and lots of scenes were just expanded
for suspense and show: The entry to Moria -- the fight in
the chamber -- the running down the stairs -- and others)
-- I found the views of Orthanc great, the way the camera
swooped over it, the clouds behind, Saruman's figure standing
on top and conjuring a spell. The friend I went to the movie
with said afterwards that what he doesn't like about such 
movies is how flat and badly-made reality looks when you come 
out. When he said that, we were just below a twenty-storey 
glass tower at the Potsdamer Platz in Berlin, and when 
we looked up, could see the December clouds go over it in 
the dark sky at quite a speed, and I thought that reality 
wasn't so badly  designed in comparison to the movie 
after all.

See some of you tomorrow in lace class,


Barbara Maren
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:31:36 -0800
Status: RO


You say both "18th c" and "Regency", so I'm a little confused, Ingrid.   I'd
be surprised if spensers were an 18th c item, but I really don't know. Since
you specifically asked about spensers, here's info on that.

Spensers are definitely a wintertime Regency thing.  There's red ones &
hunter green for fun colors, plus the usual blacks & browns. I have a French
fashion plate here dated 1806. Model is viewed from the side back. Cant
describe much about the front except that the fur collar trim extends past
the "waist" level. Deep red jacket, white fur(?) on short puff sleeves.
Light tan gloves, 24 button length, so tops are covered by the spenser
sleeve cuff & fur. The gown is white or ivory, minimal decoration at
hemline. Smallish ivory or white turban. Title is "Robe pour la Promenade".
Unusually, the ensemble is not described further.

Other spensers are trimmed a la military jackets mostly.  Do you have
Boucher's "20K Years of Fashion"? There's a red one in there, too, with
buttons forming a V down the front. "Revolution in Fashion" has my favorite
hunter green wool spenser.

For warmth: wool shawl, lined gloves and a bonnet. For further warmth,
interline the spenser with domette. Try wool challis, if you cant find
domette.

I cant help you with day dresses. Not my thing.
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo

> Also, does anyone have any tips about what items of clothing I'll need
> apart from the dresses themselves? Are spensers more a summer 
> thing, or do they work in winter as well? 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Kopenhagen
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 19:49:51 -0500
Status: RO

Barbara,

How exciting!!!!  It is wonderful to meet h-costume people.  Get lots of
sleep... Bjarne's class starts tomorrow.  BTW, did you bring the teacher an
apple? LOL!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Off to England
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 19:13:58 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

Well, I'm off to England (mostly London) this week and would love to meet 
up with some of you H-Costume folk who live across the pond.  Please email 
me or call me at Teddy's where I'll be staying so we can arrange something.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: [h-cost] Moving LOTR costume discussion to f-Costume
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 17:23:42 -0800
Status: RO

Here's the URL to sign up for f-costume...  We'll do Lord of the Rings
discussion there.

http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/f-costume

It will give you a choice of Digest or daily.  Let's give it about a day's
break to get anyone interested over there......

-Cat-

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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 20:34:10 -0500
Status: RO

Danielle,

Do you have room in your suitcase for me???  I know you will have a
wonderful trip.  Is Teddy putting you up in his sewing room with all the
boxes????

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 20:56:06 -0500
Status: RO


>>Thanks!  It's the tube scarf/shrug on this page:
>>
>>http://store.yahoo.com/sowear/sweaters.html
>>
>>But to achieve _that_ look, in terms of coordinates, I'd have to
>>polish my behind.
>>
>>What are you supposed to wear a shrug with?
>>
>>Fran

Oh, how funny!  I'll have to find the directions for  my spinners/weavers
newsletter this month, with a note.  I've seen directions to knit this kind
of thing before; they're usually knit a bit bigger, though, and hang down
to the waist in back, so they're worn rather like a sweater around the
house, when you want something a bit warmish but not too much so.

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 20:59:03 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:46 AM 01/05/2002 +0100, Bjarne wrote:
>And apropos this corset from 1795 even if Norah Waugh says it was worn 
>well into the next century, i believe that it was those who didnt follow 
>the new fashion. The bustcurve is absolutely just like 18th century, and 
>it is not good to make a regency dress.

I think I made up the corset you're talking about -- it looks like an 18th
c. corset, except that it has a laced opening at the top of the center
front.  If you leave the laces loose on this "gusset", the opening serves
to allow the bust to 'lean out' a bit -- so it's not exactly like earlier
18th c. corsets, which don't allow a bust curve at all.  It worked pretty
well for me -- boosted the bustline without suppressing it altogether.

Yes, the line of the corset is low -- about nipple-height sounds about
right.  The bust is held in above the corset (somewhat) by one's shift.

Cheers,
Mara



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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] merveilleuse mock up
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 18:01:36 -0800
Status: RO

> RE: [h-cost] merverilleuse muck up

I had to laugh when I read your original subj line.  "Muck up!"  I really
doubt you've made a muck up (a mess).  Looking forward to pictures, of
course!

> I finished the muslin model of my dress this evening.
> But, you know me i cant deside to the model. It is very hard 
> for me not to make some of my own design to a garment.

Bravo!  Mine will go in a box.  We've just discovered (yesterday) that we'll
be leaving Japan in about 6 weeks. Eek, so much to do in so little time!

(Mara, thankyou for your comments.  I'm printing out the whole thread and
putting it in the box.  I suspect you & Drea are both right about the hip
gathers becoming pleats.  I re-made the hip gathers w/ 2/3 the original
fabric.  Still looks like I have a deformity. Since I dont have Bradfield or
that particular JArnold here, I wont be tempted away from packing up the
aparto.

>"Ken Russell... sort of early 19th cent. bra burning... movie not
documentation
MikeT, I've vaguely wondered how pervasive the whole Merveilleuse thing was.
Did it happen throughout Paris everyday for several summers?  Was it
something that happened once, when 2 or 3 gals loosened their drawstrings
and held a salon to read naughty poems like Shelley's "The Flower"
whereafter the gossip (like my Italian plate reporting Parisian fashion)
spread like wildfire?  Was it all just a "thought experiment" and in truth
never happened?  I dont know.  Would love to see a first hand account or
six.  Will probably never research it, but hoping someone else will & report
in excrutiating detail.

> Now here comes a question. Should i make a handle in the 
> train so that my lady can danse in it?
> How would you suggest i made that?

I'd drape it over the arm. It's in so many fashion plates.  Do you have the
book of plates from Ackerman's?  N.Waugh mentions that the draped skirts hug
the limbs of the wearer.  Look at some of the contemporary quotes, too.
When waltzing, drape over the lowered right arm.  My vague recollection is
that most of the ballgowns in this decade are without trains. The trains
seem to be for diplomatic receptions, dinners & other formal events. Check
as I'm not sure.

I, for some reason, think that Fran owns a skirt lifter. Metal? Sort of a
rectangular thing with a clip or ratchet arrangement. The metal piece hung
from the wrist with a length of ribbon.  It maybe from a different period
(like 1870s or '80s?). It's the only one I've ever seen.

--cin in Tokyo
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 21:03:19 EST
Status: RO

Try the link or the (unbelievably LOOOOOOONG) url. Cut and paste works.
<A 
HREF="http://www.thetolkienforum.com/forumdisplay.php?s=c4cbfbaf46f8ce2ece27e5

d3b2c5f662&forumid=19">THETOLKIENFORUM.com @ THELORDOFTHERINGS.com - "â€¦</A>
www.thetolkienforum.com/forumdisplay.php?s=c4cbfbaf46f8ce2ece27e5d3b2c5f662&fo

rumid=19 the bit after the "?" denotes which forum you want to go to, they 
only have about a hundred different ones on this site, so that's an important 
bit.
Thank you one and all,
Lady G
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 21:13:10 -0500
Status: RO



> I have two books on this subject, actually. (I once considered starting a
> clothing company specializing in garments for physical limitations and
> calling it User Friendly Clothing Company) One is published by Simplicity
> and called "Design Without Limits" The other is titled "Dressing With
Pride"
> by Evelyn S. Kennedy and was published by PRIDE (Promote Real Independence
> for the Disabled and Elderly) in 1981. If you want more info about the
> books, let me know.
>
Actually, that'd be GREAT!!!  Do you have any idea if either is still in
print?  I could always hit my mom up for one of them for a birthday present
for next month.;-D
Moira

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 21:08:23 -0500
Status: RO

At 03:44 AM 01/06/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>I'm thinking
>maybe thin, soft wools, or maybe printed cotton with a flannel
>underdress. 

Exactly -- thin, soft wools would be perfect.  Or cotton, with a wool
redingote or pelisse worn over...  And a wool shawl, of course... 

>Also, does anyone have any tips about what items of clothing I'll need
>apart from the dresses themselves? Are spencers more a summer thing, or
>do they work in winter as well? Are there any types of winter coats I
>should consider especially? I'd be grateful for any help; I have never
>done this period before, and haven't found answers to these questions
>anywhere I've looked (mailnly online). :)
>
>Ingrid

A redingote of this period would be a long, wool coat, often in green or
blue, with a high waistline and a cape.  I've seen pics online, but can't
recall quite where.  I just did a Google search, and turned this up:

http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/dress/redgt.html

They're a bit late, but give the general idea...

And this:

http://hal.ucr.edu/~cathy/dress/pelisse.html

-- Mara


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  I've thought about it, but hadn't been able to think of something I =
could use reliably at events and remove the rest of the week, when I =
need to get around tight spaces with my 4 children, two of whom are =
preschoolers.  Believe it or not, my biggest problem has been the top or =
lap level of the skirting.  (believe me, a good italian renn skirt gets =
really ugly when pinned in such a way that I could get around.)  I =
usually take the feet off of my manual chair, as I have arthritis in my =
upper body as badly as the rest of me.  For the powerchair, I've =
considered something I could sit on, making it easily removable for the =
rest of the week, but I need to get better batteries before I can put =
that idea to work.;-p
  Moira


       Have you tried having someone make something like the old chain =
covers for bikes?  It should be possible to affix something that would =
keep your skirts out of the wheels.  Wish I were closer, I love this =
kind of challenge.

  Lalah
  Never Give up, Never Surrender,
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
  Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
  http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



------=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C196FC.21EBA1A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.100" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I've thought about it, but hadn't =
been able to
  think of something I could use reliably at events and remove the rest =
of the
  week, when I need to get around tight spaces with my 4 children, two =
of whom
  are preschoolers.&nbsp; Believe it or not, my biggest problem has been =
the top
  or lap level of the skirting.&nbsp; (believe me, a good italian renn =
skirt
  gets really ugly when pinned in such a way that I could get =
around.)&nbsp; I
  usually take the feet off of my manual chair, as I have arthritis in =
my upper
  body as badly as the rest of me.&nbsp; For the powerchair, I've =
considered
  something I could sit on, making it easily removable for the rest of =
the week,
  but I need to get better batteries before I can put that idea to
  work.;-p</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Moira</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><BR>&nbsp;</DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT
  size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Have you tried having someone =
make
  something like the old chain covers for bikes? &nbsp;It should be =
possible to
  affix something that would keep your skirts out of the wheels. =
&nbsp;Wish I
  were closer, I love this kind of challenge. <BR><BR>Lalah <BR>Never =
Give up,
  Never Surrender, <BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - =
- - - -
  - - - <BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears =
at
  <BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C196FC.21EBA1A0--

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off to England
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 21:11:05 -0600
Status: RO

Sorry Penny, I'm sure my suitcases are going to be full both ways. <G>  I 
have to bring clothes for a month as well as costumes for Teddy's 
coronation.  I'm not sure how I'm going to get it all in the suitcase 
actually.   I think that is where he's sticking me.  If he really thinks it 
safe for me to be let loose in his sewing room.... tee hee.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 08:34 PM 1/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Danielle,
>
>Do you have room in your suitcase for me???  I know you will have a
>wonderful trip.  Is Teddy putting you up in his sewing room with all the
>boxes????
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Kopenhagen
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 16:39:18 +1300
Status: RO

It's so ice to be on a list with people who have been to the places I have
been:)

> For 10 hours now, I am back from my Denmark-Kopenhagen trip and
> now finally found the time to get to the net again. <snip>We met at the
> station, Bjarne lead us to a very nice cafe in Kopenhagen where
> we had coffee and talked about embroidery, costumes, and lace,
> while my good little girl slept in her stroller much of the
> time.

I crossed between København  and  Malmö several times so was very familiar
with the station;). Even if I did manage to lose my platform the first time
and didn't really get the whole click your own ticket thing...

> <snip>Since in 2 days and with
> boyfriend and child, time is so limited, I only made it to
> the Rosenborg Castle and the National Museum, where I had a
> walk through the "Stories of Denmark" exhibit.

I had a few hours and only managed to stumble across Tivoli (closed) and the
museum by accident;). Pleased I did even if I did have to rush through most
of the exhibits. And if you see my site:
http://phoenix.song.tripod.com/2001trip/kopenhavn.htm I did *not* use a
flash for my photos. It was bloody amazing seeing statues up close enough to
touch.. I was actually nervous of tripping and breaking something.. I wasn't
about to hasten their deterioration by using a flash on my camera!
Of course though, most photos are blurry, oh well...

<snip> It has weapons, household items, clothes and
> other textiles and really everything that gives a feel for the
> life of the times in Denmark, from 1660 to 2000.

Was that the series of rooms? I unfortunatly had to really rush through
those because I had a booking at Det Ny Teater which I ran to meet:).
Bjarne.. you know what I was seeing;)?

It's beautiful isn't it? Even in winter when everyone was asking me "Why are
you here now??"... Apart from the price and the fact it was my 25th
birthday, I like winter.. gives you a real feel for how people really
behave, rather than when everyone is happy with sunny weather:)

Hope you have a nice rest and catch up on sleep.... nice warm glow when you
come back from a cultural trip. Even if i did wind up in bed for a week with
a nasty cold;)

michaela

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan  6 22:23:32 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Yet another take on LOTR...large can of worms
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 22:52:06 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. In answer to the last post, I just want to add that, as I mentioned in a
previous post, John Howe was one of the conceptual designers for the film. John is
a member of the Companie of St George, probably the finest and most authentic 15th
cent. reenactment and Living History groups out there. You can see the quality of
their work in John and Gerry's book "The Medieval Soldier". John managed to sneak
in some great historical stuff into a fantasy film (see notes on a previous post).
As to the questions, I believe that due to the work involved in creating real
cloth of gold/silver, you are looking at India or Pakistan for sources. Tinsel
Trading Company out of NYC has a website. They occasionally have real antique
metallic trims. Check the archives of this list, there was a post earlier
regarding the publishing of JA's work. I've been playing in the SCA for 20+ years,
nothing about pseudo-documentation is strange to me anymore, not even people
trying to justify plastic armor or Nike sneakers. My research started out the same
as all others, with a need to avoid making the same excuses as everyone else, and,
yes, I had some bad stuff "back then" but, as they say "I got better". You can see
an illustration of a water closet in John Harrington's book "A new Discourse of a
Stale Subject, Called the Metamorphosis of Ajax (London 1596). IMO, the feel and
sheen of the silk pile is different, but if it doesn't matter to you, it doesn't
matter to me. If you mean by stumpwork the little stuffed figures, they are not
seen until at least 1620's (that I have seen), but if you mean detached buttonhole
stitch, you can find some on a jacket dated 1600-1625 in the Burrill Collection in
Glasgow. (There might also be some on some glove cuffs, but most of it looks like
satin stitch and couched work to me). It is not in my range of abilities to
explain blackwork, but if you send me a note, I will give you a biblio of all of
my wife's books on the subject, you can ILL them, and possibly one or two of them
together might be able to give you an adequate explanation. For the 3 y.o.'s
boots, are you talking for period or non-period use? I have made all of my son's
shoes for their different periods (one of my pet peeves is nicely made period
clothing without the proper accessories, but I don't push it on others). Tell your
husband that a fitted doublet was done that way so as to create a youthful-looking
silhouette (make the waist smaller and emphasize the shoulders). Tell him that to
do it any other way would be to make him look sloppy, and that you'd never want to
do that to his body proportions or your good name as a seamstress. You might also
want to try tying or hooking his doublet to his breeches. This keeps everything
together, and there is no gap between breeches and doublet. It is actually quite
comfortable that way. The fans probably look that way because they are not well
made (at least in comparison to fans made in period), but since I can't see the
ones you are looking at, I'll reserve my judgement. Hope this helps, Mike T.


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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 21:53:14 -0700
Status: RO

Sorry that I'm probably going to be quoting the whole message, but I
think it got sent in some sort of fancy text, which my computer (sent to
do plain text only) does odd things to when I respond.....
At any rate, Moira, have you ever thought of fudging on the fullness of
the skirts, since that seems to be a major problem (and I can see how it
would be, too <g>).  Certainly, it's a century for large skirts, but
there are some slimmer-styled skirts, too, as well as some with less
fullness in front.  Some of the tudorish stuff, with the almost flat
fronts comes to mind, or that great ropa-and-kirtle from Janet
Arnold.....
Just some ideas.....
--Sue
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 21:54:40 -0500
Status: RO

Minoan Crete, in Knossos. Don't remember, off-hand, how many centuries
BCE... but quite a few! 

I would suspect that most people who don't want to read about LOTR
didn't read your post, since the subject wasn't changed visibly. 

Anne

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> what's the earliest use of an indoor water closet anyone can
> come up with,


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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 00:20:12 -0500
Status: RO

have you tried posting this question to the SCA-disabled list??

their addy is medievaldisableds@yahoogroups.com

this list is not only for SCA but all disableds who are into reinactment

Kat

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 22:53:12 -0500
Status: RO

Sounds like a very fun project, Ingrid!

I have personally seen a deep purple wool Regency spencer in the D.A.R.
museum collection, beautifully detailed with velvet "military" trimming and
lined with silk. I've also seen a red wool long cape with hood and a very
thin, lightweight wool daydress with extremely long sleeves (almost to the
fingertips). And, as someone else mentioned, flannel petticoats are
discussed in a couple of period sources (I think they are listed in _The
Mirror of the Graces_ as necessities for winter, but I can't find my copy to
verify this).

And long Regency coats can easily be made by adding a "skirt" to your
spencer. They are very attractive and cozy, too!

Have fun!

Jennie Chancey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 22:22:37 -0800
Status: RO

>grave bindings

What are 'grave bindings'?

>what's the earliest common use of an indoor water closet 
>anyone can come up with

Roman

>can anyone explain 
>blackwork paths to me in a way I can understand? 

Whth double-sided 'Holbein' stitch, you're doing half the pattern on the
first pass, and the other half on the return path.  Where the needle comes
up thru the cloth on the first pass, it goes down there on the return path.
 That way both sides of the design look the same.

>how do I get my husband to wear 
>a fitted doublet? he says he wants a doublet then doesn't want it "binding" 
>him

Explain to him that if he wants one, he has to be willing to wear it.  If
he thinks they look good but isn't willing to wear it, because he thinks it
binds someplace, tell him to get a Ken doll and you'll put one on that for
him to look at.

>why is it that most of the ostrich plume fans look like feather dusters 
>with a staple in the cone part?

Because feather dusters are made from ostrich plumes?  Because the plumes
on the fans aren't attached to the ends of sticks but are fastened together
all at one point?  Gosh, mine never look like that. 

Kayta
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 22:10:08 -0800
Status: RO


>..and we won't
>even discuss the Halloween she cut all her hair off...

One year one of mine had already cut all her hair off, and for Halloween
she wore all metallic-silver clothes and makeup, I glued silver Mylar
squares all over her head (hair 1/4" long) and she went as a Disco ball
(her idea).

Kayta
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 22:28:45 -0800
Status: RO


>
>>
>> I've thought about it, but hadn't been able to think of something I could
>> use reliably at events and remove the rest of the week, 
>
> I was thinking of a partial slipcover.  Non-wheeled chairs get full
> slipcovers, so why can't a wheeled one get one which doesn't cover the
> wheels?
>
> And as for dresses which are too big in the skirt, have you considered a male
> persona?  Not to fool anybody, but just to get trousers. 


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] question about patterns
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 00:20:14 -0600
Status: RO

I realize that this may be OT but I am curious as to how to deal with an
individual trying to sell me a photocopy of a pattern.

I believe that it is worth the photocopy paper it is copied on and will only
purchase it if the copyright is free and clear. I will break that rule for
things having to do with research from periodicals that I cannot purchase or
find anywhere else in the world. Not for a commercial pattern that was
printed in the 20th century that is very likely to show up at auction again
or at the lending library for purchase. Am I wrong?

I have not heard back from the seller who contacted me after I lost a bid to
one of many patterns I bid on at a local auction house via a third party. I
am not really sure what pattern they were referring to as the message was
about one sentence long offering me a copy at the price at my highest bid.
Laughable really as I would never pay that much for a photocopy. I am
bidding that high for the ORIGINAL. :)

I just have never really run across this before. What I have run across is
swapping vintage pattern scans of copyright free issues. No money exchanged
hands, no usmail involved. But have always been careful about the
clarification of the copyright.

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 22:48:48 -0800
Status: RO

> I realize that this may be OT but I am curious as to how to deal with an
> individual trying to sell me a photocopy of a pattern.
>
> I believe that it is worth the photocopy paper it is copied on and will only
> purchase it if the copyright is free and clear.

See the following website, "When Works Pass Into the Public Domain":

http://www.unc.edu/~unclng/public-d.htm


> I have not heard back from the seller who contacted me after I lost a bid to
> one of many patterns I bid on at a local auction house via a third party. I
> am not really sure what pattern they were referring to as the message was
> about one sentence long offering me a copy at the price at my highest bid.
> Laughable really as I would never pay that much for a photocopy. I am
> bidding that high for the ORIGINAL. :)

As to the photocopy issues: Ebay prices for pre-1920 or so patterns have tended
to be high. And are further inflated by people who want to sell photocopies of
patterns at prices that, IMO, are much too high for a copy, regardless of
whether the pattern's copyright has expired.  Sellers hope to sell originals for
high prices, over $100 even, then also charge each back bidder a lower price,
but still very high for a copy. They often judge how much the back bidder might
pay by the amount of their bid, so the lower bidders in the same auction are
offered copies of the same pattern at a lower price.  Bidders who paid high
prices for a pattern they won, in turn try to sell overpriced copies to the back
bidders or in a later ebay auction.  If they sell enough copies to continue
buying and selling more patterns at inflated prices, they do it.

One problem with a copy is it can vary a lot in quality. People can trace around
a pattern with varying degrees of accuracy, forget markings, forget to copy
parts of it or the instructions, and so on.  I personally prefer to buy only
originals. And I'm noticing that some ebay sellers are prominently saying, "This
is not a copy" which I assume means I'm not alone in this.

With patterns published after 1900 or so you're pretty sure to eventually
(sometimes quickly) find a similar style in an original on ebay later.  Another
thing is, the recession has really brought ebay pattern prices down and so far
they are continuing to drop.  Usually, someone who sells on ebay but who offers
to sell you something privately off ebay, does it because they think they can
make more money that way than in an open auction. Which says they think demand
isn't that high.  I've refused to buy high-priced items people offered to sell
me privately, which the sellers then put on ebay and sold for less than they
tried to charge me, or they could not sell them at all.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ingrid_G=2E_Storr=F8?= <ingridgs@studorg.hiof.no>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:36:34 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

On Sun, 6 Jan 2002, Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> You say both "18th c" and "Regency", so I'm a little confused, Ingrid.   I'd

Ah, I meant Regency in the broad sense it is sometimes used, to include 
the Empire and Directoire periods (mainly because I'm not sure of 
whether those terms are used to describe clothing in English - in 
Norwegian we only use Empire to describe the high-waisted look of these 
periods (as far as I know)), but the correct period I'm talking about 
would be Directoire. I think. :)

Part of my problem is that the character I'm portraying comes from 
Trondheim in Norway, in the year 1800. I don't have any sources as to 
the dress of that city at that time. But judging from my sources 
from other parts of the country, I've figured that they'd be a few years 
behind British and French fashion, but still up to date enough to 
wear the high-waisted style. However, I won't die if I end up with a 
costume that dates a few years later than 1800 - frankly, I can't 
imagine anyone at this event noticing.

Thanks so much to everyone who have answered; it has helped a great 
deal. :) 

Oh, and I forgot to ask - what about sleeve lengths? Would day dresses 
be short sleeved in winter as well, so that you'd rely on shalws to keep 
warm when inside, without the spencers? Or did sleeves follow the 
seasons (and common sense ;) )?


Ingrid

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wish me luck...
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 05:09:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Very cool, and way better than my approach in the same
situation.  Reminding a 3-year-old of your 2 days in
labor is quite remarkably ineffective, as I recall!

That same scissor-happy 3-year-old is now my
30-year-old hair-growing-out buddy.

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> One year one of mine had already cut all her hair
> off, and for Halloween
> she wore all metallic-silver clothes and makeup, I
> glued silver Mylar
> squares all over her head (hair 1/4" long) and she
> went as a Disco ball
> (her idea).


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queries: silk velvet
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 08:07:20 -0600
Status: RO

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> if the pile on "silk" velvet is rayon/acetate/poly
> on a silk ground and most mundane rayon velvets have a rayon pile what
> difference would it really make to use the rayon velvet (shiny velvet did
> exist as did shiny silk, high shine like way rad nasty bridal satin) {outside
> of competitions of course}

All of the silk velvet I've found (well, silk/rayon velvet) has been FAR
too drapey to successfully use in period applications.  For my purposes
(mostly 16th c.), a good-quality synthetic velvet is actually a better
choice.  If anyone has a source for 100% silk velvet with some body to
it, I would love to hear!

Melanie Schuessler
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:15:19 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 1/6/2002 9:02:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com writes:

<< I, for some reason, think that Fran owns a skirt lifter. Metal? Sort of a
 rectangular thing with a clip or ratchet arrangement. The metal piece hung
 from the wrist with a length of ribbon.  It maybe from a different period
 (like 1870s or '80s?). It's the only one I've ever seen. >>
It is my recollection, too, that skirt lifters are late 19th century.  I seem 
to remember patents issued for them, or advertisements for them, or some 
other vague memory of documentation--the bane of our existence!  (I KNOW I 
saw that SOMEWHERE!)
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan  7 08:49:25 2002
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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queries: silk velvet
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:20:42 EST
Status: RO

My thinking regarding velvet is that rayon, being a filament fiber, albeit 
man-made, more readily simulates silk than does cotton.  However, you are 
correct about the weight.  Many velvets are very "drapey."  Some of the 
synthetics, or cotton/synthetic blends, may have the proper weight.
I rather imagine that, if a 100% silk velvet exists today, it, too, will be 
very lightweight, or prohibitively expensive, or both.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:LOTR - Galadriel's frock.
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 15:15:02 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >I've looked at several stills on the web and in a couple of books and
> >it still looks like tacky nylon-lace fabric to me.  Each to their
> >own, of course, but I *can't* see a dress in that fabric as being in
> >any way attractive.
> >
> I was thinking of making a purple one in acid peeled velvet over
> buttersoft satin.  I've used that kind of velvet before and the
> textures are really fun.  But then I really like soft, fuzzy, and
> purple. ;)

Oooh!  Now that sounds like a *much* more attractive option.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 15:35:25 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Thanks for all of the ideas.  One of my biggest problems is getting
> skirts caught in the wheels, especially when I am in a position to us
> my manual chair for the day.  What figures is that I absolutely fell
> in love with Elizabethan and early Tudor just before being stuck in
> these things, and love full skirts, etc.  Unfortunately, I can't even
> get away with a full length tunic, let alone the full stuff.;-p  I
> guess I could have worse problems.;-} 

Just a suggestion, and one you may already have thought of but....#

Could you make a frame to go over the chair that would hold the 
skirts out over and away from the wheels (like a really big "wheel-
farthingale arrangement)? 

The skirts could drop straight down well beyond the wheels 
(perhaps with hoops lower down to keep the fabric from flapping in 
and catching in the wheels)

I you costumed the back of the wheelchair to look like a period 
regular chair or throne, and had hidden slits in the pleating around 
the top of the "wheel-farthingale" part, you could reach down 
through them to move the wheels when you needed to go 
anywhere and the rest of the time you would simply look like a lady 
sitting down in a large -skirted Elizabethan gown.

It's need a lot of work figuring out the exact size and shape of the 
frame, and how/where to attach it to the wheelchair, but once it 
was done, you could make several different gowns to wear over it.

Alternatively, you could have someone accompany you dressed as 
a servant, and they could push the chair you whenever you wanted 
to move somewhere - so you could do away with the sits hidden in 
the pleats... Of course, then you'd need to pay the servant, I 
suppose.

<steps back and waits for someone to tell him it's crazy and would 
never work>

Teddy
(I can picture it clearly in *my* head, is it my fault reception isn't so 
clear where *you* are?)

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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:41:41 -0500
Status: RO

LaLame in NY city is the best for this I've ever found.  They've got 
a full color catalog and will send you samples of anything for free 
(and I mean REALLY nice samples such as 12" square pieces of thier 
real gold on gold fabrics and such).  You can order most of thier 
brocades in almost any color combo you need (as well as gold and 
silver) and they also make lurex metallic versions of most of their 
brocades.  As for trims, they have excellent real metal trims and 
banding.  Thier prices aren't as bad as you might expect (like some 
of the silk sited posted here in the past -- ouch!).  Thier customer 
service is wonderful and thier shipping is always very quick. Hope 
this helps.

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:46:50 -0500
Status: RO

Do they have a website?

Sarah
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimberly Tribe" <Kimberly@Antiquarum.zzn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 10:41 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Cloth of Gold and Metal Trims


> LaLame in NY city is the best for this I've ever found.  They've got
> a full color catalog and will send you samples of anything for free
> (and I mean REALLY nice samples such as 12" square pieces of thier
> real gold on gold fabrics and such).  You can order most of thier
> brocades in almost any color combo you need (as well as gold and
> silver) and they also make lurex metallic versions of most of their
> brocades.  As for trims, they have excellent real metal trims and
> banding.  Thier prices aren't as bad as you might expect (like some
> of the silk sited posted here in the past -- ouch!).  Thier customer
> service is wonderful and thier shipping is always very quick. Hope
> this helps.
>
> Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
> ____________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE Web and POP E-mail Service in 14 languages at
http://www.zzn.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:19:53 EST
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In a message dated 7/1/02 12:24:21 AM, kayta@frys.com writes:

<< What are 'grave bindings'? >>

They tied the hands and feet together to stop postmortem movement during the 
various stages of rigor mortis, the coins on the eyes (which I think everyone 
has heard at one point or another) is to keep the eyes closed. Apparantly 
doesn't take much weight to do that.
Best,
Lady G
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In a message dated 7/1/02 8:07:36 AM, melanie@faucet.net writes:

<< If anyone has a source for 100% silk velvet with some body to it, I would 
love to hear! >>
100% silk velvet is not hard to come by, it's hard to pay for. $400 and UP 
per yard. Can't conscience that.
Lady G
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QEII
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 16:27:38 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> In a message dated 6/1/02 5:47:08 PM, talk2meg@midwest.net writes: <<
> Has anyone seen the dresses of Queen Elizabeth II that are currently
> displayed in Bath "up close and personal"? 

>> Come on Teddy-spill.

Not me, Anne, I've only ever travelled *through* Bath on my way to 
other places so have never had the chance to visit the costume 
Museum.

And, if I did, I wouldn't spend any time at all on the current Queen's 
clothing.... not a period I'm really interested in.

Teddy

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Subject: [h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you sillies!)
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:30:44 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

What do people do with long straight bangs when
wearing "pre-bang" garb?  Or do serious re-enactors
simply bite the bullet & grow them out?  There is
something about the shape of my face that I feel I
look much better with bangs, particularly when wearing
my hair up or back.

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Subject: Re:[h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you sillies!)
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 16:40:45 GMT
Status: RO


Although I have let my bangs (fringe for our English cousins) grow out in recent years, I did re-enactment for many years with bangs. What one does with them in period garb depends on the period. For many periods, headwear is de rigeur, and by choosing a type of headwear that covers the front of the head or where the bangs can be swept back into the covered area you can hide their existence. If you are doing a high-class persona/costume, or just if you want to, you can wer a wig and just hide your real hair altogether. 

What period are you interested in doing that the bangs wouldn't be correct for? (Gosh that was a bizarre sentence construction!!!)


Karen




---------- Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes:

What do people do with long straight bangs when
wearing "pre-bang" garb?  Or do serious re-enactors
simply bite the bullet & grow them out?  There is
something about the shape of my face that I feel I
look much better with bangs, particularly when wearing
my hair up or back.

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off to England
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 16:45:31 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Sorry Penny, I'm sure my suitcases are going to be full both ways.
> <G> I have to bring clothes for a month as well as costumes for
> Teddy's coronation.  I'm not sure how I'm going to get it all in
> the suitcase actually.   I think that is where he's sticking me. 
> If he really thinks it safe for me to be let loose in his sewing
> room.... tee hee. 

Current plan is Daniell (who arrives first) will be in the spare 
bedroom (some fabric boxes, but very few - it is just across the 
landing from the door into the fabric-storage room in the loft space 
of the sewing room, however).

Karen is next to arrive from Chicago, just before Coronation, she 
gets the sewing room.

Seanan arrives from somehwere near San Francisco on the 
morning that we leave for Coronation.  We pick her and her 
costumes and luggage up on the way to the Coronation and she 
gets the sofa-bed in the livingroom when we get back after 
coronation.

Hmmm...  Five of us, plus costumes - We are *definately* going to 
need a roof-box for the car.

Teddy
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:[h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you sillies!)
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:55:27 -0800 (PST)
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--- seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> What period are you interested in doing that the
> bangs wouldn't be correct for? (Gosh that was a
> bizarre sentence construction!!!)

   oooh - remember 7th grade? Let's go to the board
and diagram this sentence!  ;-)

To answer your question, 12th century English.

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 16:59:13 +0000
Status: RO

I have *extremely* thick hair which it would be difficult (and unflattering) to keep off my face for everyday purposes if I didn't wear a fringe. A few years back, with advice from people on this list, I devised a way of holding it off my face with a toothed hairband thingy and hiding the result under a veil. I wear it like this with my "best" 17th century garb.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com 01/07/02 04:30pm >>>
What do people do with long straight bangs when
wearing "pre-bang" garb?  Or do serious re-enactors
simply bite the bullet & grow them out?  There is
something about the shape of my face that I feel I
look much better with bangs, particularly when wearing
my hair up or back.

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

__________________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:00:22 GMT
Status: RO

Yippeeeee!!! I get the sewing room!!!! 

I am trying to figure out how to pack my Elizabethans in the smallest possible space......but they are still full court Elizabethans!!!!!!

Karen




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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:07:05 GMT
Status: RO

---------- Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes:

To answer your question, 12th century English.


Ah! That's an easy one! The 12th century had all sorts of interesting drapey veil things going on. If you do the late end, you can even do one of those 'pork pie', barbette, and caul arrangements. Just sweep your bangs back under the veiling and pretend they don't exist! 


Karen


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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:56:01 +0000
Status: RO

I have longish bangs and use an elasticized headband to hold them back
under my veil.

Know how you feel. I look much better with bangs than without.


			Arlys

On Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:30:44 -0800 (PST) Joan Garner
<joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes:
> What do people do with long straight bangs when
> wearing "pre-bang" garb?  Or do serious re-enactors
> simply bite the bullet & grow them out?  There is
> something about the shape of my face that I feel I
> look much better with bangs, particularly when wearing
> my hair up or back.
> 
> Joan Hall
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> 
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 11:28:49 -0600
Status: RO

Veils?  There is a wonderful page about wearing
veils and avoiding the "muffen head" look as the
author puts it

http://www.virtue.to/articles/veils.html

Katie

Joan Garner wrote:

> What do people do with long straight bangs when
> wearing "pre-bang" garb?  Or do serious re-enactors
> simply bite the bullet & grow them out?  There is
> something about the shape of my face that I feel I
> look much better with bangs, particularly when wearing
> my hair up or back.
> 
> Joan Hall
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> 
> __________________________________________________
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> 
> 


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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 12:43:32 -0500
Status: RO


I wasn't able to find a webpage, but here's their contact info:

La Lame Inc.
250 W. 39th St., 4th Floor
New York, NY 10018
Phone: (212)921-9770
Fax: (212)921-8167
Toll Free: (800)929-5138
glenschneer@lalame.com

>Do they have a web page?
>
>>LaLame in NY city is the best for this I've ever found.  They've got
>>a full color catalog and will send you samples of anything for free
>>(and I mean REALLY nice samples such as 12" square pieces of thier
>>real gold on gold fabrics and such).  You can order most of thier
>>brocades in almost any color combo you need (as well as gold and
>>silver) and they also make lurex metallic versions of most of their
>>brocades.  As for trims, they have excellent real metal trims and
>>banding.  Thier prices aren't as bad as you might expect (like some
>>of the silk sited posted here in the past -- ouch!).  Thier customer
>>service is wonderful and thier shipping is always very quick. Hope
>>this helps.


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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 12:46:18 -0500
Status: RO




><< What are 'grave bindings'? >>
>
>They tied the hands and feet together to stop postmortem movement during 
>the
>various stages of rigor mortis, the coins on the eyes (which I think 
>everyone
>has heard at one point or another) is to keep the eyes closed. Apparantly
>doesn't take much weight to do that.
>Best,
>Lady G

Some cultures also tied the jaw shut, so that it wouldn't flap open and look 
like the person was screaming.

Parsla

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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:44:14 -0500
Status: RO

No, they don't have a webiste... but if you call them , they'll send 
you a free catalog and actuallyhave a good idea of what you mean when 
you describe "period" fabric designs (so you could order some samples 
even before you get the catalog).  

212-921-9770  

La Lame Inc.
250 W. 39th St.
New York, NY
10018

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 21:43:02 +0100
Status: RO

Hi H-Costumers,

I wonder could a snowball be rolled on by adding city names to a list of 
derivated textile terms?

Like textile materials: "jeans" from "Genova", "denim" from "de Nimes", or 
textile objects like "baldachin" from Baghdad and "fez" from the city of 
the same name, etc.?

Sincerely,

Jadran Kale, curator
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
  @  http://jagor.srce.hr/muzej_sibenik
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan  7 13:52:31 2002
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From: Margo Glenn-Lewis <nomad@opalsun.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Matching thread?
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 15:46:45 -0800
Status: RO

But us Mongols are simple pastoral peace-loving nomads - why would we need
to 'thread' anyone?

Margo Glenn-Lewis
aka Morgan the Unspeakable Mongolian Nomad

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Katie
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 10:15 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Matching thread?
>
>
> I was thinking about doing an alt "Viking" persona.  I guess that
> would work for that persona....or a Mongol. *L*
>
> Katie
>
> Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:
> >
> > At 11:01 PM 01/03/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> > >Man I need sleep replace all "threat"s with "thread"
> > >
> > >Sorry about that
> >
> > Actually, that could be pretty funny.  "What threat do I
> need to go with
> > this costume?" could be an interesting question if you were
> playing a heavy
> > -- assasin, pirate, anything like that ;)
> >
> > "Hand over your doubloons or I'll slit yer throat!"
> >
> > "Surrender all your lupines!"
> >
> > <grin>
> >
> > -- Mara
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan  7 13:53:43 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] What I did on my holidays.....
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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 10:47:44 -0800
Status: RO

Well I am back from 3 weeks with the in-laws, and in the
middle of mopping up a flooded laundry (all my fault of
course) to the tune of baby screams (Erin now expects to
be picked up and cuddled the minute she opens her mouth -
a pox on grandparents I say...).

Anyway, I though I'd take a break to boast a bit.

My hubby has a great aunty who is a bit of a hoarder, of
all things, but I finally got a chance to raid her fabric
stash, and came away with amongst other things:
a pair of gold satin evening gloves, unused
3.6 m of grey angora wool 150cm wide
6m of pearl corduroy
some very stiff cotton? organza with a rose print
some very old woven interfacing
various size pieces (50cm - 2m) of taffeta I think is silk
3m of light blue raw silk
a small piece of silk? brocade (enough for a pair of sleeves)
a small piece of silk? tartan

all measurements and contents are approximate as I haven't
had time to examine it carefully. Most of it also has a very
strong smell of mothballs. Some of it is very old, as
Aunty is about 75 and has been hoarding for about 50yrs

I also scored a lot of fabric money for my b-day and
Christmas which occur close together so I splurged at
the Jan sales:
Just over 18m of velveteen (dark blue and mauve) at A$3/m
5m of dark blue/black shot silk satin $15/m
10m of fine gold chain and 2m of very large link chain (looks
like the big big chains worn in 16th century portraits)
10m of linen (white and black)

yay!!!!

I have evil plans for most of it of course, although I'd
appreciate suggestions for the corduroy. It's not like
the pearl cord I've seen in the shops recently. You could
almost describe it as a patterned velvet (but not of good
velvet quality). I wonder if it would avoid the pre-16th c
controversies about corduroy for this reason....

Oh and does anyone know if angora was used before 1600?
Or more specifically in the 14th/15th centuries? It is
so beautifully soft, although not very finely woven, and
it does have those angora hairs in (kind of like a cat has
rolled on it) which I don't see as going down very well in
period. Oh well.

Claire

PS Bjarne and Mara - As noted I have been away which is why I have
not responded to requests to see my 1780's corset. I don't
actually have any pics of it yet, but I was planning to take
some pics of my more recent work soon so I will let you know
when they are available...

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan  7 14:03:44 2002
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:34:17 GMT
Status: RO

And there's always damask from Damascus. 




---------- Jadran Kale <jkale@public.srce.hr> writes:

From: Jadran Kale <jkale@public.srce.hr>
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] query: city names in origins of textile terms
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 21:43:02 +0100

Hi H-Costumers,

I wonder could a snowball be rolled on by adding city names to a list of 
derivated textile terms?

Like textile materials: "jeans" from "Genova", "denim" from "de Nimes", or 
textile objects like "baldachin" from Baghdad and "fez" from the city of 
the same name, etc.?

Sincerely,

Jadran Kale, curator
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
  @  http://jagor.srce.hr/muzej_sibenik
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan  7 14:19:23 2002
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 20:57:46 +0100
Status: RO

Hi H-Costumers,


I wonder could a snowball be rolled on by adding city names to a list of 
derivated textile terms?

Like textile materials: "jeans" from "Genova", "denim" from "de Nimes", or 
textile objects like "baldachin" from Baghdad and "fez" from the city of 
the same name, etc.?

Jadran Kale
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
  @  http://jagor.srce.hr/muzej_sibenik
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 20:57:37 +0100
Status: RO

Hi H-Costumers,

I wonder could a snowball be rolled on by adding city names to a list of 
derivated textile terms?

Like textile materials: "jeans" from "Genova", "denim" from "de Nimes", or 
textile objects like "baldachin" from Baghdad and "fez" from the city of 
the same name, etc.?

Sincerely,

Jadran Kale
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
  @  http://jagor.srce.hr/muzej_sibenik
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 20:57:27 +0100
Status: RO

Hi H-Costumers,

I wonder could a snowball be rolled on by adding city names to a list of 
derivated textile terms?

Like textile materials: "jeans" from "Genova", "denim" from "de Nimes", or 
textile objects like "baldachin" from Baghdad and "fez" from the city of 
the same name, etc.?

Sincerely,

Jadran Kale
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
  @  http://jagor.srce.hr/muzej_sibenik
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I did on my holidays.....
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:50:30 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 1/7/2002 2:24:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
which_switch_Harry@bigpond.com writes:

<< It is
 so beautifully soft, although not very finely woven, and
 it does have those angora hairs in (kind of like a cat has
 rolled on it) which I don't see as going down very well in
 period. Oh well. >>
Could you try fulling and shrinking it?  (A sample first, of course.)
Ann Wass
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you
  sillies!)
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 13:35:57 -0800
Status: RO

>What do people do with long straight bangs when
>wearing "pre-bang" garb?  Or do serious re-enactors
>simply bite the bullet & grow them out?  There is
>something about the shape of my face that I feel I
>look much better with bangs, particularly when wearing
>my hair up or back.

Do 1880's.  They had these as part of the period hairstyle.

Kayta
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Subject: Re:[h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you
  sillies!)
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 13:58:00 -0800
Status: RO


>> What period are you interested in doing that the
>> bangs wouldn't be correct for? (Gosh that was a
>> bizarre sentence construction!!!)
>
>   oooh - remember 7th grade? Let's go to the board
>and diagram this sentence!  ;-)

In what period are you interested, wherein bangs wouldn't be correct?  (or
have I just read too many Victorian novels?) 

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 13:46:24 -0800
Status: RO

>some very stiff cotton? organza 

I think if it's cotton it's organdy, and if something else it's organza.

>I wonder if it would avoid the pre-16th c
>controversies about corduroy for this reason....

Ihad a piece of corduroy with alternate very-wide and kind-of-narrow wales,
and used it for Ren. trim on a German half-circular short cloak.  I loaded
my sewing machine bobbin with thickish gold thread and, from the back side
of the cloth, sewed lines between all the piles.  From the front it looked
like gold cord couched between velvety pile.  I used it in strips, cut on
the diagonal.  It didn't look like corduroy.

Kayta
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From: Shea Young <younganne@usa.net>
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Subject: Re: [Re: [h-cost] Re:LOTR - Galadriel's frock.]
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Date: 7 Jan 2002 13:55:32 PST
Status: RO

Hi Teddy,

We just saw it and I agree with you about the fabric. I know they were trying
to create a light, spiderweb, eternal, nature-like garment, but it didn't
work. But you know, like you, we got caught up in the movie and overall - it
just didn't matter. I was delighted that they were able to produce this film
with so much respect for the books. It was great!

Shea in Oregon

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
> 
> > >I've looked at several stills on the web and in a couple of books and
> > >it still looks like tacky nylon-lace fabric to me.  Each to their
> > >own, of course, but I *can't* see a dress in that fabric as being in
> > >any way attractive.
> > >
> > I was thinking of making a purple one in acid peeled velvet over
> > buttersoft satin.  I've used that kind of velvet before and the
> > textures are really fun.  But then I really like soft, fuzzy, and
> > purple. ;)
> 
> Oooh!  Now that sounds like a *much* more attractive option.
> 
> Teddy
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:00:47 -0400
Status: RO

Just curious what this "hiccup" is -- I've rec'd 4 of these....

Sheila B


>Hi H-Costumers,
>
>
>I wonder could a snowball be rolled on by adding city names to a list of
>derivated textile terms?
>
>Like textile materials: "jeans" from "Genova", "denim" from "de Nimes", or
>textile objects like "baldachin" from Baghdad and "fez" from the city of
>the same name, etc.?
>
>Jadran Kale
>Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
>Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
>  @  http://jagor.srce.hr/muzej_sibenik
>- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -
>
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:[h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you  sillies!)
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 14:06:34 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Well, my interest in historical costume, food & music
tapers off quite sharply after about 1600!  (except
for a perverse fascination with making tea sandwiches
-- I am The Dark Queen of Tea Sandwiches)

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

> In what period are you interested, wherein bangs
> wouldn't be correct?  (or
> have I just read too many Victorian novels?) 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:13:27 -0500
Status: RO

Sue,
Thanks! I think I'll try it out soon. It'll help me do later periods than I
could do otherwise. Then, I'd just need to cut the skirt a bit shorter, and
figure out the corset thing.  (Maybe even choose a decade that didn't do
corsets quite yet.);-D
Moira

> Sorry that I'm probably going to be quoting the whole message, but I
> think it got sent in some sort of fancy text, which my computer (sent to
> do plain text only) does odd things to when I respond.....
> At any rate, Moira, have you ever thought of fudging on the fullness of
> the skirts, since that seems to be a major problem (and I can see how it
> would be, too <g>).  Certainly, it's a century for large skirts, but
> there are some slimmer-styled skirts, too, as well as some with less
> fullness in front.  Some of the tudorish stuff, with the almost flat
> fronts comes to mind, or that great ropa-and-kirtle from Janet
> Arnold.....
> Just some ideas.....
> --Sue


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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:14:57 -0500
Status: RO

Actually, I tried a couple of times, and didn't really get anywhere.  Of
course, this was awhile ago.  It could be that more people are on the list
now who could pitch advice my way.;-)
Moira

> have you tried posting this question to the SCA-disabled list??
>
> their addy is medievaldisableds@yahoogroups.com
>
> this list is not only for SCA but all disableds who are into reinactment
>
> Kat


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:19:09 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:57 PM -0600 1/5/02, Magdalena wrote:
>Chris Laning wrote:
>
>>  He pointed
>>  out that, if a shirt is merely gathered into the neckline at the
>>  back, there is extra fullness at the upper back shoulder line that
>>  tends to migrate toward the front, causing the sleeves to twist. This
>>  tightens the shirt in the upper arm area, which he finds
>>  uncomfortable.
>>
>  > Anyone else have this experience?
>
>     Have you tried gathering more compactly at center back?  I 
>measure the neck,
>the back of the neck, and the front of the neck.  When I gather to a 
>neckline, I
>make sure that the back half of the shirt is gathered to the back of the neck
>measurement.  (Otherwise it _really_ twists).  I also gather 
>unevenly, with the
>majority of the material for the back gathered tightly to center back and the
>gathers gradually loosening as they head toward the shoulders.  Make sense?

Well, duh -- I should have thought of that <g>! Yes, it sounds like 
gathering more tightly in the center would help a lot.  Thanks!

Anyone know if it was done that way in the 16th century? I've never 
looked that closely at the gathering on the back of the few period 
shirts where you can see it.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:24:00 -0500
Status: RO

> >OK, the scary thing is, I think I understand what you mean, although the
mental image I originally got was a bit bizarre.;-D  I even have a hoopskirt
I wouldn't mind abusing to try to experiment with this idea.  (hey, my
neighbors probably already think I'm crazy anyway.  We're still trying to
explain the concept of homeschooling and history being something other than
something you sleep through at school.);-O
Thanks, Teddy.  Could turn into a great excuse to do early 17thC for SCA.;-}
Hugs,
Moira

 I you costumed the back of the wheelchair to look like a period
> regular chair or throne, and had hidden slits in the pleating around
> the top of the "wheel-farthingale" part, you could reach down
> through them to move the wheels when you needed to go
> anywhere and the rest of the time you would simply look like a lady
> sitting down in a large -skirted Elizabethan gown.

> <steps back and waits for someone to tell him it's crazy and would
> never work>
>
> Teddy
> (I can picture it clearly in *my* head, is it my fault reception isn't so
> clear where *you* are?)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you sillies!)
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:57:51 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:30 AM -0800 1/7/02, Joan Garner wrote:
>What do people do with long straight bangs when
>wearing "pre-bang" garb?  Or do serious re-enactors
>simply bite the bullet & grow them out?  There is
>something about the shape of my face that I feel I
>look much better with bangs, particularly when wearing
>my hair up or back.

If you're doing an era that involves significant head-linen for 
women, you can make one of your foundation items be a "headband" of 
linen broad enough to hold it back out of sight (as well as serving 
as a foundation for other things to be pinned to).

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:57:51 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:30 AM -0800 1/7/02, Joan Garner wrote:
>What do people do with long straight bangs when
>wearing "pre-bang" garb?  Or do serious re-enactors
>simply bite the bullet & grow them out?  There is
>something about the shape of my face that I feel I
>look much better with bangs, particularly when wearing
>my hair up or back.

If you're doing an era that involves significant head-linen for 
women, you can make one of your foundation items be a "headband" of 
linen broad enough to hold it back out of sight (as well as serving 
as a foundation for other things to be pinned to).

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 01:20:14 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> How exciting!!!!  It is wonderful to meet h-costume people.  Get lots of
> sleep... Bjarne's class starts tomorrow.  BTW, did you bring the teacher an
> apple? LOL!!!
> 
> Penny Ladnier

... is this something to do with an English proverb or
joke or custom? Please... my first language is not English.
Can you explain?


Barbara Maren
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan  7 19:08:06 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
References: <31935D33B47@mdx-rf-s1.nw.mdx.ac.uk> <005601c197ca$01f05480$9c55fe3f@ccc>
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 19:38:11 -0500
Status: RO

Moira.... this would be a good challenge for me. It's been quite a while since
I've had a good one. We could start plotting after Gulf Wars. ( Sorry I have a
period-esque wedding gown to do before then.)
   This could be fun! Wanna try?
  Crissy

Heather wrote:

> > >OK, the scary thing is, I think I understand what you mean, although the
> mental image I originally got was a bit bizarre.;-D  I even have a hoopskirt
> I wouldn't mind abusing to try to experiment with this idea.  (hey, my
> neighbors probably already think I'm crazy anyway.  We're still trying to
> explain the concept of homeschooling and history being something other than
> something you sleep through at school.);-O
> Thanks, Teddy.  Could turn into a great excuse to do early 17thC for SCA.;-}
> Hugs,
> Moira
>
>  I you costumed the back of the wheelchair to look like a period
> > regular chair or throne, and had hidden slits in the pleating around
> > the top of the "wheel-farthingale" part, you could reach down
> > through them to move the wheels when you needed to go
> > anywhere and the rest of the time you would simply look like a lady
> > sitting down in a large -skirted Elizabethan gown.
>
> > <steps back and waits for someone to tell him it's crazy and would
> > never work>
> >
> > Teddy
> > (I can picture it clearly in *my* head, is it my fault reception isn't so
> > clear where *you* are?)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan  7 19:18:49 2002
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:44:49 GMT
Status: RO

There is an old tradition in the States of children bringing their teachers an apple as a gift. It started back in the pioneer days when simple gifts of food could be very important. It has gotten to the point where a red apple is often used as a symbol for a teacher and an apple by a blackboard is understood as a symbol for  a school. A derogatory use of the image is the term 'apple polisher' because, of course, the children wanted to make a good impression on their teacher, so they would shine the apples and make sure the apples looked their best. Thus the term is used for anyone who is trying very, very hard to make a good impression on someone not by their skills or talents, but by flattery or bribery.

Karen




---------- Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de> writes:

From: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Back from Kopenhagen
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 01:20:14 +0100 (CET)

> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> How exciting!!!!  It is wonderful to meet h-costume people.  Get lots of
> sleep... Bjarne's class starts tomorrow.  BTW, did you bring the teacher an
> apple? LOL!!!
> 
> Penny Ladnier

.... is this something to do with an English proverb or
joke or custom? Please... my first language is not English.
Can you explain?


Barbara Maren
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 16:49:15 -0800
Status: RO


Paisley, Scotland (named for the wrong place, in Scotland were copying
Indian shawl designs)
Madras plaid (may mean the state of Madras, not the city, tho.)
Battenburg and Chantilly laces
Jersey knit
What's "Kelly green" named for?

There ought to be some Chinese silk named after cities. The only Chinese
term
I recall the translation of is Pongee = "home made". Hardly a city name.
I'll ask around and see if my coworkers know any Japanese cityname terms.

Sounds like you're planning an exhibit theme. Please tell!
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: city names and textile terms
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 01:47:54 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

> From: Jadran Kale <jkale@public.srce.hr>
> I wonder could a snowball be rolled on by adding city names to a list of 
> derivated textile terms?
> 
> Like textile materials: "jeans" from "Genova", "denim" from "de Nimes", or 
> textile objects like "baldachin" from Baghdad and "fez" from the city of 
> the same name, etc.?

"Paisley" for a design ornament that was produced on shawls
in the Scottish town of the same name, imitating the expensive
Cashmere shawls from Asia. Talking about Cashmere: It is a goat,
a fiber, and a notoriously unstable and much fought-over region
of the world. Also a famous rock song and a (Danish? Norwegian?) 
rock group.


> From: seamstrix@juno.com
> And there's always damask from Damascus. 

One of the recent volumes of Spektrum der Wissenschaft 
(German edition of Scientific American; would be in there as well) 
has given me an interesting idea in this line of associations. 
In Damascus, they forged the incomparable Damascus steel which 
was extremely beautiful, hard and durable and in cooling 
developed a natural pattern of crinkled lines on its surface. 
A "Damascene pattern". Was the fabric named after the metal?
Because with a drawloom and damask patterns, you can 
create damask-like structures on fabric. I'm not saying that
damask wasn't created in Damascus, maybe it was, but my idea
is that it is not as chracteristic of Damascus as the steel
is, and that maybe the name comes from the metalwork to the
fabric, not reverse. Sounds funny that two independent similar-
looking technologies should have developed in the same city
(though maybe they did). Maybe someone with more knowledge can
say more about it.

The article was about how to recreate Damascus blades with
traces of special elements (Vanadium, I think -- and really TINY
traces) added to the alloy that steel is. The extra elements
may have come with the special iron ore the Damascus smiths imported
from India.

Barbara Maren
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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queries: silk velvet
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 20:41:23 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

At 08:07 AM 1/7/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > if the pile on "silk" velvet is rayon/acetate/poly
> > on a silk ground and most mundane rayon velvets have a rayon pile what
> > difference would it really make to use the rayon velvet (shiny velvet did
> > exist as did shiny silk, high shine like way rad nasty bridal satin) 
> {outside
> > of competitions of course}
>
>All of the silk velvet I've found (well, silk/rayon velvet) has been FAR
>too drapey to successfully use in period applications.  For my purposes
>(mostly 16th c.), a good-quality synthetic velvet is actually a better
>choice.  If anyone has a source for 100% silk velvet with some body to
>it, I would love to hear!
>
>Melanie Schuessler

Actually, I may have recently stumbled across a possibility...  Jack Lenor 
Larson the textile designer, has done a silk upholstery velvet.  There is 
an exhibition of his work on at the Minneapolis Institute of Art at the 
moment and there is some of it on the wall.  Apparently, the silk velvet is 
still available through certain fancy decorator types.  I have no idea bout 
the cost but it might be a viable option...

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 22:01:28 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. There is Shantung silk, Crepe de Chine, Surah (from Surat, India, or
was that mentioned already?), Damask (I think we got that one, too) from
Syria, Muslin from the Muslim countries (mostly Egypt, I suppose), Angora
(Ankara?), Calico (Calcutta), Samite (from Samia?), Satin (from Zatun),
Osnaburg (from Osnabruck), Dowlas (from Daoulas, in Brittany), Cambric
(Cambrai), Holland Cloth (obvious), Sarcanet (from the land of the Saracens),
etc. That is besides all of the ones named for their content, like Canvas
(cannabis), and the others like Serge de Nimes, named after the place of
origin specifically. The list grows....Mike T.


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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Not LOTR (was: Yet another take on LOTR)
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:08:29 -0800
Status: RO

I also note that the posts directly before and after these have been about many
other (historical) things)


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 5:01 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Not LOTR (was: Yet another take on LOTR)
>
>
>
> On Sun, 6 Jan 2002 LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> <requesting a return to historic-costume topics instead of LOTR:>
>
> > As my first attempt with the Eleanora items went flat-Here are a few
> > others.
> <snip about a dozen unrelated topic suggestions>
> > Hopefully there are enough topics there to let people choose.
>
> Lady G., as you have already pointed out, some people with no interest in
> LOTR are deleting those threads. So your Eleanora topic and the others you
> posted may not reach the people you're trying to reach, since you posted
> them under an LOTR subject line.
>
> Also, it would be a service to the list in both the short- and long-term
> if you would open new threads with individual posts, under separate,
> descriptive subject lines. In the short term, you will get much better
> response -- I am sure I am not the only person who deletes posts based on
> subject line when my reading time is short, and I will miss queries that
> are batched under a subject line that relates to a period I don't do. In
> the long term, you will gain the gratitude of people who use Eric P.'s
> archive, now that it's searchable *only* by subject line and author, not
> through a free-text search (a loss I lament).
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:33:02 +1100
Status: RO

 
> >what's the earliest common use of an indoor water closet 
> >anyone can come up with
> 
> Roman
> 

I think the Minoans also had indoor plumbing. 

Glenda.


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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 21:41:17 -0600
Status: RO

Parsla Liepa wrote:
> 
> ><< What are 'grave bindings'? >>
> ><...>
> Some cultures also tied the jaw shut, so that it wouldn't flap open and look
> like the person was screaming.

It took me a long time to figure out that this is the purpose of the
cloth tied around Marley's head (from crown to jaw) in A Christmas
Carol, probably because I never read the story--just saw it on the stage
or television.

In the text it reads: 
"Though he looked the phantom through and through, and saw it standing
before him; though he felt the chilling influence of its death-cold
eyes; and marked the very texture of the folded kerchief bound about its
head and chin, which wrapper he had not observed before: he was still
incredulous, and fought against his senses."

and later on:
"But how much greater was his horror, when the phantom taking off the
bandage round its head, as if it were too warm to wear indoors, its
lower jaw dropped down upon its
breast!"

Melanie
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
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Subject: Re: Re:Re: [h-cost] Off to England
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:49:06 +1100
Status: RO

Karen,

You could try those air-exclusion bags that you attach the vacuum cleaner to
to shrink them. I've done it with a few things and they come out OK after a
little hanging time. I'd recommend you have a play first just in case your
specific fabric doesn't take well to the squishing - or you could always put
your everyday clothes into them and leave your Elizabethan clothing
uncompressed. Jumpers/Sweaters/padded things shrink down wonderfully in
these. I did this when I went interstate with 17th century gear for a
friend's mid-winter wedding - shift, 3 petticotes, pair of bodies, bodice,
double thickness cape, shoes and various other accessories took 80% of my
suitcase - the 3 days of everyday clothes were hardly noticable in their
shrink-wrapped state.
In Australia we also have travel bags with a one-way valve for when no
powered vacuum is available.

Don't forget to take an extra suitcase so Teddy doesn't notice his missing
fabric ;-)  If I remember correctly, Teddy, weren't you complaining recently
of having  too much fabric in your stash anyway?

Glenda.
----- Original Message -----
From: <seamstrix@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 4:00 AM
Subject: Re:Re: [h-cost] Off to England


> Yippeeeee!!! I get the sewing room!!!!
>
> I am trying to figure out how to pack my Elizabethans in the smallest
possible space......but they are still full court Elizabethans!!!!!!
>
> Karen
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan  7 22:31:49 2002
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:54:48 -0800
Status: RO

> Ah, I meant Regency in the broad sense it is sometimes used, 
> to include 
> the Empire and Directoire periods (mainly because I'm not sure of 
> whether those terms are used to describe clothing in English - in 
> Norwegian we only use Empire to describe the high-waisted 
> look of these 
> periods (as far as I know)), but the correct period I'm talking about 
> would be Directoire. I think. :)

Let me see if I can help with the terms... others, please chime in!

Generally, the name used would be one suitable for the place & time you are
re-creating.  No American would ever say "Directoire" and mean the US
Federal period.  Clearly, Regency refers to England's monarchic arrangement.


For me, "Directoire" is more of a political term than a fashion term.
There's the approx 8 year time when France redesigned everything from
government to the calendar. Basically until about 1805.  In fashion, it
conjures images of the patriotic post-Revolution Francaise tricolor
cockades, the song "Ca Ira", big 1790s skirts "retrousees dans les poches"
(pulled out thru the pockets). At the turn of the century, style suddenly
slims & becomes Neo-classical. The merveilleuse & macaroni, David's designs
for the new Republique's Assemble, gold embroideries on bright colored
gowns.  The use of paillettes. 

Unsurprisingly, most people call 1805-1815 in France "Napoleonic". The
French call it "Deuxieme Empire" or "Second Empire" (same spelling in French
& English) or "Republique".

"Regency", for me, denotes dresses almost unvaringly white or "drab" gown,
Jane Austen novels, Admiral Nelson, the Patrick O'Brian books and way too
many BBC programs to list. The expression denotes English things.

"Federal" calls up American images of building after the War of
Independance, manifest destiny, the French & Indian War, the sacking of
Washington DC by the Brits. At the same time, there's the new territorial
exploration (e.g Lewis & Clark who would HARDLY have cared about fashion).
Fabrics tend to be more sensible & locally made reflecting new national
pride and a postwar rebuilding. Most things were homemade, but the richer,
high-fashion sorts in Northeastern cities like Boston, Philidelphia & NY
would have had access to fancy foreign fabrics.

On the Pacific coast, Alta California was still under Spanish rule and would
be until 1821 and the Mexican War of Independance. Americans, Russians,
Englishmen and the local indian tribes wandered thru Spanish Calif.
Americans included people like Fremont's survey party and Richard Dana
author of "Two Years Before the Mast". Using terms like "regency", "federal"
or "directoire" to describe Spanish colonial clothing in California would be
completely confusing.

Annoyingly, different timeframes are described by the term. Art Historians
mean terms of style, while political historicans dicker over the de facto &
official times when George (soon to be IV) was regent for his father, George
III. It's all very inconsistent.

So there's a boring English lesson for today. The upshot is, that you're
right. "Regency" is a commonly used general term (and therefore confusing)
grouping a broader range of arts, cultures, places & styles.

> Part of my problem is that the character I'm portraying comes from 
> Trondheim in Norway, in the year 1800. I don't have any sources as to 
> the dress of that city at that time. But judging from my sources 
> from other parts of the country, I've figured that they'd be 
> a few years behind British and French fashion,

What was the time period called in Norway? As you think about your design,
you might ask you self these questions:  What were the modifications to the
French & English styles for *Norwegian* weather?  What were locally
available goods?  How did local artistic taste get incorporated?  Were there
any local, nationalistic, political or religious statements made in
clothing?

--cin in Tokyo
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 18:47:01 -0800
Status: RO


>figure out the corset thing.  (Maybe even choose a decade that didn't do
>corsets quite yet.);-D

Do a thing which looks like a corset, but doesn't fit any tighter than a
modern bustier, and you'll be fine in any corset period.  The things don't
really have to be tight, just snug as a bra.

Kayta
   //// \\\
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 22:13:02 -0800
Status: RO

>However, I'm NOT built like a 12-year old, and I would prefer
>not to look like a complete walrus if at all possible. (

My solution is to give the bodice a high waistline, but not to attach the
front of the skirt to the body-edge of it.  The back of the skirt attaches
to the bodice, as usual, but I cheat in front.  In front I attach the skirt
a couple of inches from the body-edge of the bodice, such that it hangs
straight down, and doesn't follow the bulge of my post-childbirth belly.  I
don't allow the skirt front to go in at the high waist then drape out again
over the belly.

The / and \ and | below, along the left edge of this post, may give you an
idea of what I'm talking about.  See if you can imagine a side view of a
woman's actual anatomy, and the straight line of a skirt attached where I
said it was attached.

\
 \
  |
 /
/|
\|
 |
 | 

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  8 00:57:33 2002
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 01:24:31 -0500
Status: RO

Go see the costumes at this site that does fairytales for children.
http://www.animalx.com/DWmain.htm  Make sure to click on each section.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 23:29:01 -0800
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To Penny-

Oh, thank you for the lovely site.  Such beautiful wings and head
pieces!!! Some peoples' creativity just blows me away!!!

Theesa Eacker

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Go see the costumes at this site that does fairytales for children.
> http://www.animalx.com/DWmain.htm  Make sure to click on each section.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] You'll love this
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 02:49:21 -0500
Status: RO

Theesa,

We have some new classes that will be coming aboard very soon.  One class
will be how to make fairy costumes with doing little sewing.  The instructor
was sharing with me tonight some sites with fairy wings. This site was one
of the sites.   This is not her work, we were just playing on the web
together.  I love the lady with the long hair spread all over the wings
(AnimalX).  The little boy is adorable too.

Costume is such a fun industry to work in!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 01:00:55 -0500
Status: RO

One more tidbit for Ingrid -- the wool daydress I saw is in a museum
collection in Denmark and has the extra-long sleeves I mentioned. There is
also a dress in the collection that is knitted -- just like a big, fitted
sweater dress. It looks very 1970s but it straight out of 1810s Denmark!

Have fun!
Jennie

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 08:34:50 -0000
Status: RO


> Unsurprisingly, most people call 1805-1815 in France "Napoleonic". The
> French call it "Deuxieme Empire" or "Second Empire" (same 
> spelling in French
> & English) or "Republique".

Actually, the Second Empire refers to the rule of Napoleon's nephew from
1852 to 1870. In terms of costume styles it corresponds more to what is
referred to as the crinoline era.
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Subject: [h-cost] fashion atrocities
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 01:11:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


For those of you not up on obscure english holidays, this Monday was Plough
Monday.  That's the Monday after 12th Night, when groups of dancers would
drag a plough along with them as they cadged for food, drink, and money.
If a well-to-do household _didn't_ give out, the boys ploughed up their
front yard.  Or worse yet, the manure pile.  

Anyway, the longsword dancers made their yearly appearance at the ceili
I run.  After they took off, our dancers announced that _next_ monday
is Plaid Monday.  I'm really frightened at what's going to turn up.
I'll probably wear some of my heinous Clan MacDude plaid if I can find
it...which I of course just did.  It's even uglier than I remembered.
Yellow, fuscia, cyan, purple, black, and threads of lurex.  I may
still be the Bad Plaid champion, but I'm sure the kids will come up
with far worse combinations.  Clash of the Tartans, anyone?  I expect
I'll see all those horrible victorian plaids mixed with even worse 
modern ones. ;}

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:55:15 -0800
Status: RO


I just checked at www.invalides.org. You are exactly right.
--cin 

> > Unsurprisingly, most people call 1805-1815 in France 
> "Napoleonic"...
> 
> Actually, the Second Empire refers to the rule of Napoleon's 
> nephew from
> 1852 to 1870. In terms of costume styles it corresponds more 
> to what is referred to as the crinoline era.
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR - Galadriel's frock
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 10:40:45 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Shea,

> We just saw it and I agree with you about the fabric. I know they were
> trying to create a light, spiderweb, eternal, nature-like garment, but
> it didn't work. But you know, like you, we got caught up in the movie
> and overall - it just didn't matter. I was delighted that they were
> able to produce this film with so much respect for the books. It was
> great!

Absolutely.  Shame about that one frock, but perhaps I had too-high 
hopes (elves have always been a favourite of mine...<g>)

Teddy
(wearer of many an elf-costume)
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 10:51:49 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> OK, the scary thing is, I think I understand what you mean,
> although the mental image I originally got was a bit bizarre.;-D  I
> even have a hoopskirt I wouldn't mind abusing to try to experiment
> with this idea. (hey, my neighbors probably already think I'm crazy
> anyway.  We're still trying to explain the concept of homeschooling
> and history being something other than something you sleep through
> at school.);-O Thanks, Teddy. Could turn into a great excuse to do
> early 17thC for SCA.;-} 

You're welcome, Moira 

We will, of course, expect details posted if/when you get it done.... 
and pictures would be good too.

I had some more thoughts about the frame....  if it wasn't fully 
circular, but had a gap in it, the two ends of the metal-boning could 
clip on to the two back uprights of the wheelchair (the ones leading 
up to the handles)  If you had a series of them with the highest at 
waist-height , they should hold the fabric out away from the 
wheels.... or would those uprights be too far forward to hold the 
lower hoops (can't recall if the wheels extend farther back than that)

The other option for the lower ones is that they completely encircle 
the chair and the only parrt of it that is visible would be the back and 
handles (which could be hidden under a long back veil... even 
provide meaky support for one of those big standing ruff-crescent 
shaped affairs,  perhaps?)... Help me out here late-Elizabethan 
style experts!

Teddy
(when will they develop the technology to transmit mental-images?)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queries: silk velvet
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 10:58:02 +0000 (GMT)
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> >All of the silk velvet I've found (well, silk/rayon velvet) has been
> >FAR too drapey to successfully use in period applications.  For my
> >purposes (mostly 16th c.), a good-quality synthetic velvet is
> >actually a better choice.  If anyone has a source for 100% silk
> >velvet with some body to it, I would love to hear!
> >
> >Melanie Schuessler
> 
> Actually, I may have recently stumbled across a possibility...  Jack
> Lenor Larson the textile designer, has done a silk upholstery velvet. 
> There is an exhibition of his work on at the Minneapolis Institute of
> Art at the moment and there is some of it on the wall.  Apparently,
> the silk velvet is still available through certain fancy decorator
> types.  I have no idea bout the cost but it might be a viable
> option...
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle

The silk mill and museum in Stockholm still makes and sells 100% 
silk velvet (as well as silk brocades to 15th and other century 
patterns) but their fabrics are extremely expensive.  When I visited 
there a couple of years ago the cheapest fabric they sold was 
around £100 a metre and the prices rose steeply from there

The velvet was *lovely* - thick piled nad heavy

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off to England
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 11:42:18 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Don't forget to take an extra suitcase so Teddy doesn't notice his
> missing fabric ;-)  If I remember correctly, Teddy, weren't you
> complaining recently of having  too much fabric in your stash anyway?
> 
> Glenda.

And that problem, at least, has been solved.  Through the powers 
of barter, sale and exchange, I have honed down the fabric stash 
considerably.   Several pieces of velvet and brocade went to some 
friends who are as poor as very poor things (a couple of them given 
to me by one them, years ago when she was better off financially) 
and are now made into new garb for them to wear to my 
Coronation (I'm looking forward to seeing it) and I've used up my 
*entire* stock of my favourite cotton damask.  I use this particular 
stuff a lot because it's cheap, comfortable to wear and comes in a 
wide variety of colours - plus it can be easily machine dyed or re-
dyed, so stuff that's not the right shade or that needs "freshening 
up" after a few years of wear can be made to look new again (I did 
this recently with a tired-looking orange set of 15th century 
costume by stripping out the colour and re-dying the hose royal 
blue, the short houpellande dark forest green and overdying the 
orange with a sunny yellow to perk it up a bit.  Looks like a 
completely new set.  Unfortunately I discovered I was completely 
out of it when I accidentally tore through the middle of a leg piece 
when making some hose for a friend and my standard fix (cutting 
another leg in a different colour of the same fabric and making the 
hose parti-coloured) wasn't possible because I'd used *all my 
previously vast stash of it.....  Luckily, Tom had one small piece left 
in his stash what was just the right size to cut a full leg from.

Anyhow, the fabric stash is much more managable now... ggod 
thing too since I bought the end of a bolt of blue cotton brocade 
(eleven metres) in the sale at John Lewis's on Thursday evening 
(remember thosecotton/ply mix red drapes with the Tudor-style 
pattern repeat that I was going for Anne?  I bought this 100% cotton 
fabric with a similar pattern instead) because it was about a third 
the normal price.....<g>

Teddy

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Subject: [h-cost] Wearing 16th century shirts
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 09:29:13 -0600
Status: RO

>     Have you tried gathering more compactly at center back?  I 
>measure the neck, >the back of the neck, and the front of the neck.  
When I gather to a >neckline, I >make sure that the back half of the 
shirt is gathered to the back of the neck >measurement.  
(Otherwise it _really_ twists).  I also gather >unevenly, with the
>majority of the material for the back gathered tightly to center back and the
>gathers gradually loosening as they head toward the shoulders.  Make sense?

Well, duh -- I should have thought of that <g>! Yes, it sounds like 
gathering more tightly in the center would help a lot.  Thanks!

Anyone know if it was done that way in the 16th century? I've never 
looked that closely at the gathering on the back of the few period 
shirts where you can see it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

A method that I have found that seems to help with this problem is, when using a shoulder seam, to cut the back shoulder seam 3 - 4 inches wider than the front.  This extra fabric is gathered to the center third of the front shoulder when the shoulder seam is stitched.  Front and back bodies are still the same width so this means less of the back to be gathered onto the neckband.  It also seems to put extra fabric right where it is needed on broad shouldered guys.

I learned this about 20 years ago from an SCA handout (Robin, you may remember Robert's shirt articles).  Sorry, I don't know the period source.

Catherine


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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 10:54:26 EST
Status: RO


> have you tried posting this question to the SCA-disabled list??
>
> their addy is medievaldisableds@yahoogroups.com
>
> this list is not only for SCA but all disableds who are into reinactment


Does this group allow non-disabled lurkers?  The topic is one I'm interested 
in.

Leah
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 11:27:56 -0500
Status: RO



>
>For those of you not up on obscure english holidays, this Monday was Plough
>Monday.  That's the Monday after 12th Night, when groups of dancers would
>drag a plough along with them as they cadged for food, drink, and money.
>If a well-to-do household _didn't_ give out, the boys ploughed up their
>front yard.  Or worse yet, the manure pile.
>

Hmmm....   If my Barony's dance group ever needs a fundraiser.....


>Anyway, the longsword dancers made their yearly appearance at the ceili
>I run.  After they took off, our dancers announced that _next_ monday
>is Plaid Monday.  I'm really frightened at what's going to turn up.
>I'll probably wear some of my heinous Clan MacDude plaid if I can find
>it...which I of course just did.  It's even uglier than I remembered.
>Yellow, fuscia, cyan, purple, black, and threads of lurex.  I may
>still be the Bad Plaid champion, but I'm sure the kids will come up
>with far worse combinations.  Clash of the Tartans, anyone?  I expect
>I'll see all those horrible victorian plaids mixed with even worse
>modern ones. ;}


Plaid Monday? I like it!  We often do themed practices like this in my 
Barony.  This week has been dubbed "Pet me, spank me" night -- velvet and 
leather.

Parsla

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Corsets/stays (was Re: wheelchair historicals)
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:19:12 -0500 (EST)
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On Mon, 7 Jan 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> Do a thing which looks like a corset, but doesn't fit any tighter than a
> modern bustier, and you'll be fine in any corset period.  The things don't
> really have to be tight, just snug as a bra.
> 
> Kayta

I think I'd give that advice to just about anybody wearing stays or a
corset -- you _don't_ need to tighten it down so much that you're
uncomfortable.  I don't think most women wore their stays that tight --
most women actually had to work in them, after all.  Only the extremely
fashionable laced themselves so tightly as to injure themselves.

Speaking of stays...

I got a copy of "Support and Seduction: A History of Corsets and Bras" by
Beatrice Fontanel.  Here's my review: Don't bother.  It's got a lot of
pretty pictures, but they're all thrown in with little regard to what
century the author is discussing.  For instance, there's a figure from one
of the Beuckelaer genre paintings (15th c.) in the middle of a section
discussing 18th c. women -- the author specifically claims that
middle-class women in the 18th c. didn't wear stays, when there is very
good evidence to the contrary.  I also find the sensationalistic writing
style ("Look at all the horrible, horrible things women did to their
bodies!  Oh, I'm shocked, shocked!" kind of thing) very distracting.  She
trots out all the old myths, and does debunk a few of them (mentioning,
for instance, that many photos were retouched), but still lets a number
of them pass by.

If someone were looking for a good book on corsets, Waugh's _Corsets and
Crinolines_ is my hands-down favorite.

-- Mara


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals - Elizabethan
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 18:28:51 GMT
Status: RO

On Tue, 08 Jan 2002 10:51:49 +0000 (GMT), the following was written in
this electric book by Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>:

>(when will they develop the technology to transmit mental-images?)

Oh, I hope we don't. Some of my firends have the oddest sense of
humor. I *don't want* to know what's going on their heads! 

;)

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing 16th century shirts
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:06:11 -0600 (CST)
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On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> I learned this about 20 years ago from an SCA handout (Robin, you may
> remember Robert's shirt articles).  Sorry, I don't know the period
> source.

Not my period, so I haven't pursued this. I've seen Bob's article, but I
don't think I have a copy. Do I remember correctly that he based the
patterns on something Arnold published earlier -- the famous "shirts and
smocks" article?

--Robin


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In a message dated 1/8/02 12:28:09 PM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> It's even uglier than I remembered.
> Yellow, fuscia, cyan, purple, black, and threads of lurex.  
Do you have a scan of this?  I used to have a plaid that was simular colors 
and I loved it.  I don't think the fuscia was in there though.  I would like 
to someday find something simular to what I had as it looked good on me.
Kelly
m311@aol.com


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/8/02 12:28:09 PM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">It's even uglier than I remembered.
<BR>Yellow, fuscia, cyan, purple, black, and threads of lurex. &nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>Do you have a scan of this? &nbsp;I used to have a plaid that was simular colors and I loved it. &nbsp;I don't think the fuscia was in there though. &nbsp;I would like to someday find something simular to what I had as it looked good on me.
<BR>Kelly
<BR>m311@aol.com
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you  sillies!)
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 20:15:08 +0000
Status: RO

Tea sandwiches sound sort of - dry and leafy?

JEan


In message <20020107220634.16243.qmail@web20304.mail.yahoo.com>, Joan
Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes
>Well, my interest in historical costume, food & music
>tapers off quite sharply after about 1600!  (except
>for a perverse fascination with making tea sandwiches
>-- I am The Dark Queen of Tea Sandwiches)
>
>Joan Hall
>"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
>"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
>
>--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
>
>> In what period are you interested, wherein bangs
>> wouldn't be correct?  (or
>> have I just read too many Victorian novels?) 
>
>
>__________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  8 15:05:39 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing 16th century shirts
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 15:30:39 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:29 AM 1/8/02 -0600, you wrote:
>>     Have you tried gathering more compactly at center back?  I 
>>measure the neck, >the back of the neck, and the front of the neck.  
>When I gather to a >neckline, I >make sure that the back half of the 
>shirt is gathered to the back of the neck >measurement.  
>(Otherwise it _really_ twists).  I also gather >unevenly, with the
>>majority of the material for the back gathered tightly to center back and the
>>gathers gradually loosening as they head toward the shoulders.  Make sense?
>
>Well, duh -- I should have thought of that <g>! Yes, it sounds like 
>gathering more tightly in the center would help a lot.  Thanks!
>
>Anyone know if it was done that way in the 16th century? I've never 
>looked that closely at the gathering on the back of the few period 
>shirts where you can see it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
        I can not say for sure regarding the 16th century, having never
examined an extant shirt of the period, but that is how it is done in most
cases on 18th and early 19th century shirts.  

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Only slightly OT: bangs (the hair kind, you  sillies!)
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:50:51 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

ohmigod!  you've invented a new tea sandwich:  the tea
tea sandwich!!

--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Tea sandwiches sound sort of - dry and leafy?
> 
> JEan

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsets/stays (was Re: wheelchair historicals)
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 13:41:36 -0800
Status: RO

>> Do a thing which looks like a corset, but doesn't fit any tighter than a
>> modern bustier, and you'll be fine in any corset period.  The things don't
>> really have to be tight, just snug as a bra.

>I think I'd give that advice to just about anybody wearing stays or a
>corset -- you _don't_ need to tighten it down so much that you're
>uncomfortable.  I don't think most women wore their stays that tight --
>most women actually had to work in them, after all.  Only the extremely
>fashionable laced themselves so tightly as to injure themselves.

It's the difference between 'tight' and 'snug'.  Not so tight it hurts,
interferes with breathing, etc.  Snug enough to do the work of a bra, and
to take the strain of holding one in the period shape off your dress
fabric.  When I teach corset-making classes, first I point out my Sweetie's
more-than-18" neck, and let them think about that as I mention Jessica
Rabbit and discuss the relevant myth*, then I start calling corsets 'period
body-shapers'.

*Yes, I have seen pictures of women who may actually have 18" waists, but
mentioning Jessica Rabbit puts the 18"-waist idea in it's proper perspective.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wearing 16th Century Shirts
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 13:04:23 -1000 (HST)
Status: RO

> Anyone know if it was done that way in the 16th century? I've never
> looked that closely at the gathering on the back of the few period
> shirts where you can see it.

	In the photos I've seen with enough detail to show it, the gathers
are evenly spaced all the way around.

annora

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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:49:56 -0600
Status: RO

Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer picture of
the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this picture in the
first place?

http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm

Thanks!
**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@sound.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: shrugs
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 17:59:01 -0600
Status: RO

For those of you interested in this topic, Threads Magazine had a nice 
article in the Oct/Nov
1999 issue (#85) on sewing shrugs.  Couple of cute ones in there if I 
remember correctly.
Wouldn't you know it.. I can't find my copy right now. :-(

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 06:06 PM 1/6/02 -0500, you wrote:
>As to what to wear them with or why?  Basically, any time you could wear a 
>shawl, you could wear an equivalent "shrug".  I've even seen a few 
>designer type varients... can't remember how long ago... where it 
>(obviously) wasn't called a shrug, but went over the shoulders, down to 
>cuffed wrists, and draped
>"elegantly" down to near knee length.  Last time I saw one, it was 
>black... I *think* paired with either a grey or silver slim skirted 
>dress... that was also draped side to side ... sort of bunting 
>style?  (don't know how you describe it... think that short piece in the 
>front of some of the styles that
>were worn on bustled skirts way back when... ... now that I think of it, 
>the skirt may have resembled that, slim with the drape in front, but only 
>to mid/upper thigh or so)
>
>Problem with odd pictoral memories that pop up... you can almost but not 
>*quite* see what you're remembering...
>
>-Elisabeth


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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:27:56 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, Rebecca Schmitt wrote:

> Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer
> picture of the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this
> picture in the first place?
> 
> http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm

Was there a particular one of these pictures you were interested in? The
link you gave shows many pages scanned from one of those Victorian
coffee-table costume books. I don't see a label, but if I had to lay
money, I'd say it's "Costumes of All Nations," by Albert Kretschmer and
Carl Rohrbach, published in 1882 in England according to my notes from my
lecture on Victorian costume scholarship. The authors are German, but I
don't recall whether there was an earlier German edition, or whether the
British publication was first.

--Robin

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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:26:49 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 1/8/2002 3:59:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com writes:

<< Actually, the Second Empire refers to the rule of Napoleon's 
 > nephew from
 > 1852 to 1870. In terms of costume styles it corresponds more 
 > to what is referred to as the crinoline era. >>
Totally off-topic, but I always thought it was poetic justice that Napoleon 
III was Napoleon's nephew but Josephine's grandson.  (Because Napoleon 
divorced Josephine because she could not provide him an heir.)  Josephine's 
daughter, Hortense, married one of Napoleon's brothers.
Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 18:26:27 -0600
Status: RO

Rebecca Schmitt wrote:

> Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer picture of
> the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this picture in the
> first place?
> 
> http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm

http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/costume2.htm says "1882
Lithographs by Albert Kretschmer".  A quick search through the OCLC
shows various editions, apparently there was a 1977 reprint in German. 
Looking at bookfinder there are several origins for sale, but they're
well over US$1000.00.  I'd suggest contacting the web site owner for a
complete citation and ordering it through interlibrary loan.

--Charlene

-- 
How can "crash course" and "collision course" have two different
meanings?  -- George Carlin
=====
Free Book Searches (out-of-print, hard-to-find, foreign, used, new) -
mailto:findbook@flash.net
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:28:05 EST
Status: RO

P.S.  There was, of course, functionally no Napoleon II.  I suppose that 
title was reserved for Napoleon's son by Marie Louise, the King of Rome, who 
never became emperor.
Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:44:41 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> 
> > Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer
> > picture of the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this
> > picture in the first place?
> > 
> > http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm
> 
> Was there a particular one of these pictures you were interested in? The
> link you gave shows many pages scanned from one of those Victorian
> coffee-table costume books. I don't see a label, but if I had to lay
> money, I'd say it's "Costumes of All Nations," by Albert Kretschmer and
> Carl Rohrbach, published in 1882 in England according to my notes from my
> lecture on Victorian costume scholarship. The authors are German, but I
> don't recall whether there was an earlier German edition, or whether the
> British publication was first.

(following up my own post) ...  Well, duh, yeah, there's a link to the
index at the bottom of the page. I didn't see it at first. Yes, that's the
book.

Not a particularly reliable resource for historic costume, though a very
nice one for the study of 19th-century costume scholarship. You can still
find it on the occasional open shelf of some university libraries.

--Robin


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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:48:05 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Someone mentioned this lately, and I think that person
has the same problem I do.  I understand the concept
of Holbein stitch.  Intellectually I understand how it
is *supposed* to work, but when I try to work anything
more complicated than a simple square or circle it
somehow gets all weird & isn't reversible any more. 
Are some blackwork patterns just too complicated for
Holbein stitch?

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:25:19 -0800
Status: RO


Jadran-san,

Japanese City name textile terms
Weaving:

Saga nishiki ori - weaving, a tabby brocade form invented by the wife of a
feudal lord circa 1820, Edo period, named for the city of Saga (now in Saga
prefecture). According to my Japanese textile books, Nishiki means "many
beautiful colors together" and can applied to polychrome tabby, twill &
satin weaves. According to my Jpn-Eng dictionary, nishiki means "brocade".
Nishiki is 3, 5 or 7 colors (numerology & folk magic reasons).

Dye:

Edo yuzen - paste resist dye form, used in the most expensive formal kimono,
furosode and the outer robe worn over all white emsemble worn by the bride
at a Shinto wedding. Currently seen in wedding & funeral garments.  Edo is
the old name for Tokyo. (Saw one at the flea market for $120 last weekend.
Multiple thousands of $$$ when new.)

Kyo shibori - Very sophisticated tie-die form from Kyoto; the most prized
Kyo shibori seems to be Kyo "fawn-spot" shibori.  I've seen these mostly at
cherry blossom parties, summer festivals, shichi-go-san and other happy
semi-formal occasions. Also spotted (pardon the pun) on a maiko in the Gion
district of Kyoto one October evening.

Kaga yuzen - is another paste resist dye method named for the city of Kaga
(now in Kaga prefecture).

(There was also a stencil-dye technique name that I've forgotten.)

Embroidery:

none that I could find. The only one named for a place was named for China.

Clothing names:

Nagoya obi - a braided tie-on "belt" that complete replaces the obi most
people are familiar with.  I've never seen one worn, but I havent been to
Nagoya either.

The books I have are out of print or only available in Japan.  You might try
_Japanese Textiles: In the Victoria and Albert Museum_, for more info.

--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo 

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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 19:58:40 -0600
Status: RO



Joan Garner wrote:
> 
> Someone mentioned this lately, and I think that person
> has the same problem I do.  I understand the concept
> of Holbein stitch.  Intellectually I understand how it
> is *supposed* to work, but when I try to work anything
> more complicated than a simple square or circle it
> somehow gets all weird & isn't reversible any more.
> Are some blackwork patterns just too complicated for
> Holbein stitch?
> 


There are some patterns that aren't meant to be reversible.  They are
often nearly so, but not quite.  

The best thing I could suggest is tracing the pattern on graph paper. 
Use one color marker, say red, for the out going path, then use another,
say blue, for the return. That might help get the feel for it better.  I
know when I first started blackwork I was working with library books so
I was copying by hand the patterns for later reference. I was using one
color for the whole motif, unless it was real complicated and required
more colors.  somewhere during those copying efforts it "click" for me.
Alexandria
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From: Megan McConnell <madilayn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:51:31 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hi Joan

In short - yes!  Some are too difficult to do.  

I can  get about 90% of blackwork reversable - but it
does take a while in "reading" the pattern

The best thing I found was to "practice" using a graph
paper and black pen and draw the pattern to learn
paths.

Megan M
--- Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Someone mentioned this lately, and I think that
> person
> has the same problem I do.  I understand the concept
> of Holbein stitch.  Intellectually I understand how
> it
> is *supposed* to work, but when I try to work
> anything
> more complicated than a simple square or circle it
> somehow gets all weird & isn't reversible any more. 
> Are some blackwork patterns just too complicated for
> Holbein stitch?


=====
Megan McConnell
ICQ:  57164109

"When I'm old, I don't want them to say of me, "She's  so charming." I want them to say, "Be careful, I think she's armed."    -G. Stoddart

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
References: <Pine.LNX.4.33.0201071022370.20403-100000@studorg.hiof.no> <013d01c19809$d6e2cd00$ac37fea9@jchancey>
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 19:58:49 -0600
Status: RO

Ooh, tell us more about that one!  I'm always looking for information on 
knitted items, particularly something like a dress - you don't see many 
of them (at least *I* don't).

Karen

Jennie Chancey wrote:

>One more tidbit for Ingrid -- the wool daydress I saw is in a museum
>collection in Denmark and has the extra-long sleeves I mentioned. There is
>also a dress in the collection that is knitted -- just like a big, fitted
>sweater dress. It looks very 1970s but it straight out of 1810s Denmark!
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan  8 21:33:27 2002
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 22:04:11 -0500
Status: RO

At 1/8/2002 10:54 AM, you wrote:
> > have you tried posting this question to the SCA-disabled list??
> > their addy is medievaldisableds@yahoogroups.com
> > this list is not only for SCA but all disableds who are into reinactment
>
>Does this group allow non-disabled lurkers?  The topic is one I'm 
>interested in.
>Leah

Well, I'm on it, and I'm not disabled.

so I guess you can lurk also.  8-)

Kat

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Rebecca's link, was: no subject
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:03:03 -0800
Status: RO

According to the main page, they are:

1882 Lithographs by

Albert Kretschmer

Painter and Costumer to the Royal Court Theatre, Berlin


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 5:28 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Rebecca's link, was: no subject
>
>
>
> On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
>
> > Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer
> > picture of the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this
> > picture in the first place?
> >
> > http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm
>
> Was there a particular one of these pictures you were interested in? The
> link you gave shows many pages scanned from one of those Victorian
> coffee-table costume books. I don't see a label, but if I had to lay
> money, I'd say it's "Costumes of All Nations," by Albert Kretschmer and
> Carl Rohrbach, published in 1882 in England according to my notes from my
> lecture on Victorian costume scholarship. The authors are German, but I
> don't recall whether there was an earlier German edition, or whether the
> British publication was first.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:05:37 -0800
Status: RO

Some really great blackwork patterns, including double-running, and information
is at
http://www.blackworkarchives.com/

The designer is my webmistress and best pal, Paula Kate Marmor. :-)

MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Megan McConnell
> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 5:52 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork "paths"
>
>
> Hi Joan
>
> In short - yes!  Some are too difficult to do.
>
> I can  get about 90% of blackwork reversable - but it
> does take a while in "reading" the pattern
>
> The best thing I found was to "practice" using a graph
> paper and black pen and draw the pattern to learn
> paths.
>
> Megan M
> --- Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> > Someone mentioned this lately, and I think that
> > person
> > has the same problem I do.  I understand the concept
> > of Holbein stitch.  Intellectually I understand how
> > it
> > is *supposed* to work, but when I try to work
> > anything
> > more complicated than a simple square or circle it
> > somehow gets all weird & isn't reversible any more.
> > Are some blackwork patterns just too complicated for
> > Holbein stitch?
>
>
> =====
> Megan McConnell
> ICQ:  57164109
>
> "When I'm old, I don't want them to say of me, "She's  so charming."
> I want them to say, "Be careful, I think she's armed."    -G. Stoddart
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:20:55 +0000
Status: RO

Greetings Joan.

Not all blackwork patterns are reversible. A *lot* are, but not all.

I teach an Ithra class in basic blackwork that teaches some simple
reversible patterns and comes with color graphs I made so you can see the
stitches easily. Would you like me to send you a copy? It might help.

What are you using for a ground fiber? If you're on linen, it could be
that it's too hard for you to see and your stitching is going off
accordingly. I can't see linen *at all* owing to a wierdness in my
vision, but am fine on 22 ct hardanger. Aida (12 count--any bigger and it
starts looking nasty) works fine also for practice.

Graphing, as others have suggested, can be very helpful in understanding
how a pattern works. It can also help to study a pattern and get a sense
of its stitch count base. There's a wonderful star, diamond and box
pattern which is based entirely on 2 stitches per direction, for
instance.

				Arlys

On Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:48:05 -0800 (PST) Joan Garner
<joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes:
> Someone mentioned this lately, and I think that person
> has the same problem I do.  I understand the concept
> of Holbein stitch.  Intellectually I understand how it
> is *supposed* to work, but when I try to work anything
> more complicated than a simple square or circle it
> somehow gets all weird & isn't reversible any more. 
> Are some blackwork patterns just too complicated for
> Holbein stitch?
> 
> Joan Hall
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> 
> __________________________________________________
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gothic Sculputer
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 20:06:36 -0800
Status: RO

Yes.  My guess is that it is fullness caused by a cone-shaped garment, and
not by a cylindrical one just pleated under the arms.  I think the 'pleats'
are the tops of fullness which gets wider at the hem, as a cone would do.

>Do you think this is the construction of the garment??
>
>Katie
>
>Melanie Schuessler wrote:
>> 
>> Greetings to all
>> 
>> Having returned from a long hiatus during which I missed you all
>> immensely, I of course immediately have a question.  There may be a
>> simple answer, and if so, I'm sure someone on this list will have it.
>> 
>> On the January page of the 2002 Medieval Woman calendar, please consider
>> the lady to the right (the one in the turban).  Examine, if you will,
>> the red laces at center front of her bodice.  One can see that the
>> bottom two seem to pass through the dark dots which might be interpreted
>> as lacing holes.  This makes sense to me as a single spiral lace holding
>> the dress together.  The top four, however, seem to lay horizontally
>> without passing through the dark dots and without the necessary
>> connecting diagonal of a spiral lace.
>> 
>> Similarly, the lady on the left has numerous horizontal bars (and no
>> diagonals) center front.  Because of the gathered nature of her
>> overgarment (and the lack of diagonals), these wouldn't seem to be
>> laces--unless they're laces on the undergarment instead (which still
>> doesn't explain the lack of diagonals!).  For a similar phenomenon, go
>> to
>> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/botticel/portrait/index.html
>> and click on "Portrait of a Young Woman" (the second one).
>> 
>> What is happening here?  Are these just decorative?  Here for
>> example--go to
>> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/v/veronese/z_other/
>> and click on "Portrait of a Venetian Woman"--they look pretty vestigial,
>> but that's much later.
>> 
>> I was just going to put up my new calendar, and look how much trouble I
>> got into!  Many thanks for any enlightenment that you can offer.
>> 
>> Melanie Schuessler
>> 
>> p.s. to Robin Netherton:  Check out February for a 16th century Flemish
>> Sybil in a sideless surcoat-esque garment.
>> _______________________________________________
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>_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 20:40:31 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Joan,
One of the tricks I use for complicated blackwork
paterns, is to use shorter threads than I do with more
simple patterns.  I start the first thread, stitch the
design in one direction until I run out of thread,
then start the second thread, stitching in the missing
"links."  I doubt this isn't period, but if I do it
right, the pattern is still reversable.
Margaret (Out of hiding)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing 16th century shirts
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 22:46:31 -0600
Status: RO

Ron Carnegie wrote:

> >
>         I can not say for sure regarding the 16th century, having never
> examined an extant shirt of the period, but that is how it is done in most
> cases on 18th and early 19th century shirts.

That's certainly where I got the idea.  ;>  A couple of the shirts of which I have
pictures seem to be slightly balanced towards front or back, but without seeing the
shirts myself, I have to say that I simply don't know and it could very easily be
wishful thinking.

-Magdalena


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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:06:31 -0600
Status: RO

I am not sure which thumbnail in particular you wanted a closer look at
but if you remove the "/thmb6.htm" from the URL it will give you the
directory of his costume folder.  There listed as "costmX.jpg" (X being
the page number" are the larger versions of the thumbnails.

Katie


Rebecca Schmitt wrote:

> Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer picture of
> the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this picture in the
> first place?
> 
> http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm
> 
> Thanks!
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> Bristol,
> BRF FOF
> 
> So many books, so little time
> 
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
> 
> 
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> 
> 


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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 22:38:28 -0700
Status: RO

I always graph it out first, as Alexandria has recommended, but then my
friends say that I'm that kind of person <g>
With particularly complicated patterns, I'll also sometimes work it out
on a piece of "big" Aida cloth (11 ct. or 14 ct. or something), using
differently-colored floss for the different passes back and forth.  I
use the colors in the order of the color spectrum:
red-orange-yellow-green-blue-indigo-violet or, as my brother the
engineer puts it "Roy G Biv." <g>
This lets me know that I need to do the red line first, then the orange,
etc.....and is relatively easy to remember.
--Sue, certifiably blackwork-obsessed ;-)

Alexandria Doyle wrote:
> 
> Joan Garner wrote:
> >
> > Someone mentioned this lately, and I think that person
> > has the same problem I do.  I understand the concept
> > of Holbein stitch.  Intellectually I understand how it
> > is *supposed* to work, but when I try to work anything
> > more complicated than a simple square or circle it
> > somehow gets all weird & isn't reversible any more.
> > Are some blackwork patterns just too complicated for
> > Holbein stitch?
> >
> 
> There are some patterns that aren't meant to be reversible.  They are
> often nearly so, but not quite.
> 
> The best thing I could suggest is tracing the pattern on graph paper.
> Use one color marker, say red, for the out going path, then use another,
> say blue, for the return. That might help get the feel for it better.  I
> know when I first started blackwork I was working with library books so
> I was copying by hand the patterns for later reference. I was using one
> color for the whole motif, unless it was real complicated and required
> more colors.  somewhere during those copying efforts it "click" for me.
> Alexandria
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:32:24 -0800
Status: RO

At 7:58 PM -0600 1/8/02, Alexandria Doyle wrote:
>Joan Garner wrote:
>  >  I understand the concept
>  > of Holbein stitch.  Intellectually I understand how it
>>  is *supposed* to work, but when I try to work anything
>>  more complicated than a simple square or circle it
>>  somehow gets all weird & isn't reversible any more.
>>  Are some blackwork patterns just too complicated for
>  > Holbein stitch?
>
>There are some patterns that aren't meant to be reversible.  They are
>often nearly so, but not quite.

Also, any pattern that has detached parts -- a star in the middle of 
a square that isn't connected to the frame anywhere, for instance -- 
cannot be completely reversible, unless you want to go to the immense 
amount of trouble of starting and ending the thread for each star.

BTW, I assume you are aware that by no means was "all" period 
blackwork reversible. This seems to be a more modern "neatness 
obsession" though of course it's often a fun challenge. Also, not all 
period work that looks like double-running actually is -- some of 
it's worked in backstitch. An experienced eye can tell the difference 
by the way it pulls on the fabric, but the difference is subtle.

>The best thing I could suggest is tracing the pattern on graph paper.
>Use one color marker, say red, for the out going path, then use another,
>say blue, for the return. That might help get the feel for it better.  I
>know when I first started blackwork I was working with library books so
>I was copying by hand the patterns for later reference. I was using one
>color for the whole motif, unless it was real complicated and required
>more colors.  somewhere during those copying efforts it "click" for me.

The most recent introductory blackwork class I taught, I had students 
actually stitch some examples this way, with two different colors of 
thread. It did seem to help.

A lot of people do seem to have trouble getting the idea of 
double-running stitch -- it depends on one's personal learning style. 
If illustrations and instructions don't do it for you, try to find 
someone who will sit down with you and show you. And who then will 
watch helpfully while you try it, saying, "Yup. Uh-huh. Yes, the 
needle goes in right there. Exactly! Mm-hmmm. Yup. See, you're doing 
it!" <g> Cheerleading is half the function of a good teacher!
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 00:32:01 -0600
Status: RO

Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Not all blackwork patterns are reversible. A *lot* are, but not all.

And some are reversible, but the pattern on each side is different. 
I've got some (modern) towel band patterns like that.

--Charlene

-- 
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meanings?  -- George Carlin
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 01:50:14 -0800
Status: RO


>Are some blackwork patterns just too complicated for
>Holbein stitch?

Some are not topologically possible, as in they can't be done with one
thread using the same path both ways (= they're not reversible), but none
are 'too complicated'.  It's just that some people, like me, are not up to
the really tricky ones. 

Kayta
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 06:34:33 -0500
Status: RO

OH, I love those 50% coupons, although I worry if the company is doing so
badly that they might go out of business.
This is the first time that they have let me run this course, and that was
basically because I set it up with the special ed people.  Their kids were
being cut out of the basic art course, and Fashion Design & Textiles can
count toward that.
But budget, no.   SO we'll see if any of them can actually afford anything
to make a jacket, or if I have to finance that.
But as they couldn't tell me what any of those "recommended fabrics" were,
not even polar fleece, I did convince them to let me go as an absolutely
necessary part of the course.
The fact that I did a mid-life career change, and financed college by being
a school bus driver, means that I can drive the kids without their having to
pay for a driver.
I don't care, I get to go on a school day!


> OH...for a job like that!!  Now if they would just pay for your fabrics
too,
> huh?  I'm so jazzed to be able to help in even this small way to further
the
> cause of continued home sewing.
>
> Well, good luck and don't forget to tell the kids that if they sign up for
> the mailing list there they get 50% off coupons every other month or so
and
> it makes a big difference in the cost of garment.  :)
>
> Jennifer


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals - Elizabethan
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:32:29 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> even provide meaky support for one of those big standing
> ruff-crescent shaped affairs, perhaps?).

My typos are getting worse!

I meant to type *sneaky* support, not meaky (whatever that means)

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals - Elizabethan
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:36:45 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >(when will they develop the technology to transmit mental-images?)
> 
> Oh, I hope we don't. Some of my firends have the oddest sense of
> humor. I *don't want* to know what's going on their heads! 

<thinks about this>

Good point!!!!!

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches (WAS: Only slightly OT: bangs)
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:39:18 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO



> Tea sandwiches sound sort of - dry and leafy?

UGH!

Jean!!  That's a horrible thought to inflict on my poor addled brain!

Teddy
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 04:02:41 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:
> I teach an Ithra class in basic blackwork that
> teaches some simple
> reversible patterns and comes with color graphs I
> made so you can see the
> stitches easily. Would you like me to send you a
> copy? It might help.

Yes, please!  email or snailmail?

> What are you using for a ground fiber? If you're on
> linen, it could be
> that it's too hard for you to see and your stitching
> is going off
> accordingly. 

I've been working with 32-count linen and somehow my
eyes aren't quite as sharp at 55 as they were in my
20's!  The hardanger fabric sounds easier to work
with, but the linen incorporates itself into a garment
much better.  If I can just make myself a pair of
linen shirtcuffs before I'm too *%&%! old to see the
fabric...[sigh]...

Joan Hall
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Subject: [h-cost] 12th-century garb
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:47:12 EST
Status: RO

Hello to the list.

In the near future, I am diving headlong into some deep research on the 12th 
century, specifically as it pertains to garb in "Germany" and "Italy".  To 
that end, I would please like to ask any and all of you for references, 
manuscripts, primary sources, etc. that you would recommend.  

I thank you all with great gratitude.

Mistress Ingvild
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 01:12:11 -0800
Status: RO

>> What are you using for a ground fiber? If you're on
>> linen, it could be
>> that it's too hard for you to see and your stitching
>> is going off
>> accordingly. 
>
>I've been working with 32-count linen and somehow my
>eyes aren't quite as sharp at 55 as they were in my
>20's!  The hardanger fabric sounds easier to work
>with, but the linen incorporates itself into a garment
>much better.  If I can just make myself a pair of
>linen shirtcuffs before I'm too *%&%! old to see the
>fabric...[sigh]...

What about doing the blackwork using waste canvas, and counting 'threads'
on that?  I have a shirt in the works where I'm not sure these nearsighted
eyes can even see the threads in the fabric (I'd go the rest of the way
blind if I tried).  So I'm planning to use waste canvas in a reasonable
size, then pulling it out after the stitches are in.  It should be a good
combination of the fabric the wearer wants and the stitches the embroiderer
wants.

Kayta
   //// \\\
  ////-@@\\\
 ((((   7 )))
  (((  <> ))))
     )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rebecca's link, was: no subject
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:32:16 -0600
Status: RO

I was trying to find some good places for my brother to see some
possibilities of Elizabethan-ish men's wear, so he can pick out something
that he wants for this year's Faire. This was one of the pages I found, and
it's close enough that I can probably get a fair idea of what he wants, I
just would like a bit closer look, particularly at #62.

Or if anyone has any good links of pictures/portraits of Elizabethan men
(preferrably more middle-class) that I can send him?

PS. Sorry about the "no subject" line - I'm just getting the hang of
Outlook.

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 7:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Rebecca's link, was: no subject


>
> On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
>
> > Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer
> > picture of the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this
> > picture in the first place?
> >
> > http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm
>
> Was there a particular one of these pictures you were interested in? The
> link you gave shows many pages scanned from one of those Victorian
> coffee-table costume books. I don't see a label, but if I had to lay
> money, I'd say it's "Costumes of All Nations," by Albert Kretschmer and
> Carl Rohrbach, published in 1882 in England according to my notes from my
> lecture on Victorian costume scholarship. The authors are German, but I
> don't recall whether there was an earlier German edition, or whether the
> British publication was first.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:28:54 -0800
Status: RO

I don't know that this will work for everyone, but here's my method.

First: if all the parts of a blackwork pattern touch each other in 
some way, it can be made reversible ("can", not "must" or "will"); if 
any parts of the design are separated from other parts and don't 
touch, it _can't_ be made exactly reversible.  (It may be possible to 
stitch it such that the reverse is an equally pleasing pattern, but 
it will not be exactly the same pattern.)  A slight modification of 
this rule is that if you have a band pattern that involves more than 
one separate bands that don't touch (e.g., a broad central band with 
narrower "racing stripes"), then if you work each band as a separate 
project, they can all be made reversible.

Any potentially reversible design can be visualized as a "branching 
tree" structure -- that is, a single main path with numerous branches 
coming off of it (which may themselves have branches), but where each 
branch has an end rather than coming back into the pattern.  To 
visualize this, you may have to visualize "breaks" in the line at 
points were the line actually continues (e.g., a "lollipop" shape 
must be "broken" where one side of the loop meets the stem and 
becomes a single, unbranching line).

When you work the design, pick one path that continues along your 
entire design as your "main" path (if it's a band with straight 
edges, then one edge works nicely for this) and run a single line of 
your running stitch along this path.

Start to return, but every time you hit a branch off this main path, 
go off and work it until it is entirely done before you return to the 
main path.

This explanation works better if I can doodle while giving it, but I 
don't trust the stability of ascii art enough to try here.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 16:17:27 -0600
Status: RO

Correction.....Some larger pics, of course the ones I want to take 
a peek at are only 9k...*grumbles*  

Okay guys and gals I am going to start my "library" any one have 
a suggestion for a couple of good "starter" books??

Katie

Katie wrote:
> 
> I am not sure which thumbnail in particular you wanted a closer look at
> but if you remove the "/thmb6.htm" from the URL it will give you the
> directory of his costume folder.  There listed as "costmX.jpg" (X being
> the page number" are the larger versions of the thumbnails.
> 
> Katie
> 
> Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> 
> > Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer picture of
> > the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this picture in the
> > first place?
> >
> > http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm
> >
> > Thanks!
> > **********************
> > Rebecca Schmitt
> > aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> > Bristol,
> > BRF FOF
> >
> > So many books, so little time
> >
> > lotsofteapots@charter.net
> > **********************
> >
> >
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> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> >
> >
> 
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Braid cases and barbettes...do they "go together"?
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:04:36 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I'm doing 12th C. English and really want to
experiment with braid cases, but I'm not giving up my
barbette and veil!

Iohanna the Harper
(mka Joan Hall)
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:42:39 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

 Does anyone have a reference of what the bottom-half
of this outfit might have looked like?

http://www.getty.edu/art/collections/objects/oz792.html

Sheila

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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 19:42:45 -0500
Status: RO


Hey, folks,
I found a pair of clogs in an antique shop about 20 miles from Hanover, PA
last summer.  The woman running the shop had no idea about their history.
I haven't asked anyone about them because I hadn't gotten around to taking
pics yet... but I got a digital camera recently, so here are the pics:


http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/clogs1.JPG

http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/clogs2.JPG

http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/clogsdetail.JPG

In the last shot, you can see how the leather is held onto the wood:
there's a channel in the wood just under the sole edge, and a piece of wire
is 'stapled' into the channel using smaller pieces of wire as staples.
They are definitely handmade.

I'd say from the size of these that they are men's -- or a very large
woman's. 

Given that these are from rural PA (mid-state), my own guess about them is
that they've got German roots.  Does anyone know whether/if such clogs were
worn in the 18th c. by German immigrants and their descendants?  I've seen
enough "wooden shoes" in antique shops brought back from Europe as tourist
items that I'm a bit cautious, but it seems plausible that these are a
genuine holdover.

I am going to ask around a bit more about them, now that I actually have
some pictures taken <grin>. But -- thoughts, folks?

-- Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals - Elizabethan
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 06:27:43 -0600
Status: RO

(sighs in relief)  I was almost afraid to ask what "meaky" support might be!

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Teddy" <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 5:32 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals - Elizabethan


> > even provide meaky support for one of those big standing
> > ruff-crescent shaped affairs, perhaps?).
> 
> My typos are getting worse!
> 
> I meant to type *sneaky* support, not meaky (whatever that means)
> 
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 07:56:34 -0500
Status: RO

>
> Or if anyone has any good links of pictures/portraits of Elizabethan men
> (preferrably more middle-class) that I can send him?

>
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> Bristol,
> BRF FOF
>

Are you looking for period examples or would you be intrested in pictures of
recreations?
Here are some pics of my husband in his middle class Elizabethan clothes.
http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/dcp_0039a.jpg
http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/p0001257.jpg
http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/dcp_0079.jpg
http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/p0000887.jpg
Andrea

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 06:21:22 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> What about doing the blackwork using waste canvas,
> and counting 'threads'
> on that?  

I don't know why I didn't think of that - I have waste
canvas in 3 sizes somewhere - [still haven't done my
traditional January 1st organization of needlework
supplies].  I guess maybe in some twisted corner of my
small brontosaurus brain I thought it was somehow
"cheating" and all the other embroiderers would laugh
at me!  :-)  Thanks for making sense!  I'm going to
cut out my cuffs tonight.  I'm going to try to find a
blackwork pattern that's as close as I can get to my
state flower, the California Poppy.

Iohanna the Harper
[m.k.a. Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 07:25:02 -0700
Status: RO

Waste canvas actually works pretty good (I've done it, and it worked for
me, at least <g>).  The only thing I can caution about, is watching the
tension of your embroidery.  When you remove the waste canvas, the
embroidery threads tend to sit a little loosely on the fabric, as they
no longer have the canvas threads between them and the ground fabric. 
Oh, and make sure you don't pierce any of the waste canvas threads with
your embroidery--it makes it a real pain in the @ss to get out
(experienced based ;-)
--Sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 

> What about doing the blackwork using waste canvas, and counting 'threads'
> on that?  I have a shirt in the works where I'm not sure these nearsighted
> eyes can even see the threads in the fabric (I'd go the rest of the way
> blind if I tried).  So I'm planning to use waste canvas in a reasonable
> size, then pulling it out after the stitches are in.  It should be a good
> combination of the fabric the wearer wants and the stitches the embroiderer
> wants.
> 
> Kayta
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 10 09:37:42 2002
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:04:07 -0600
Status: RO

>
>I've been working with 32-count linen and somehow my
>eyes aren't quite as sharp at 55 as they were in my
>20's!  The hardanger fabric sounds easier to work
>with, but the linen incorporates itself into a garment
>much better.  If I can just make myself a pair of
>linen shirtcuffs before I'm too *%&%! old to see the
>fabric...[sigh]...
>
>

May I suggest reading glasses, at the highest magification you can find will help greatly.  I found working blackwork under one of those lights with a lens let me work a lot fast than I could without it.  So I looked for and found reading glasses that help when I'm at work with great lighting during lunch to work without the eye strain.  And yes, if someone brings me something to read, I have to take the glasses off to read it. :)

Alexandria
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 10 10:06:38 2002
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Braid cases and barbettes...do they "go together"?
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:38:31 GMT
Status: RO

On Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:04:36 -0800 (PST), the following was written in
this electric book by Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>:

>
>I'm doing 12th C. English and really want to
>experiment with braid cases, but I'm not giving up my
>barbette and veil!

Well, I'm not sure that I have *any* good news for you. :(
(for coherency's sake, I mean mid-12th century, since that's what most
people mean by '12th century')

I haven't found any period references or depictions of braid cases.
I'm beginnning to suspect that they may have been a conflation of the
wrapped-braid style seen in the 12th century and the actual article
(decorative braid casings) worn in Italy a couple of centuries later.
I have been researching this era like mad, and the only (as in single,
and tiny) depiction that I have seen that *might* depict something
entirely covering a braid in the 12th century seems to be a clumsy,
smallscale representation of the ribbon-braiding technique (or actual
close wrappings -it's not clear enough to tell). They certainly aren't
covered by a coherent or even decorated covering, and the woman so
depicted is probably a servant.

I also have not seen any evidence for the barbette as a defined,
highlighted, fashion accessory this early. They seem to be clearly an
item of 13th century dress. There *may* be linen bands to which veils
are pinned, but they are either obscured or left out of the images
entorely. I choose to use linen bands for convenience, since I don't
like my veil flying away, though I am aware of their possible
incorrectness. If you like, use a much narrower band under the chin,
so it is not as obvious as a barbette - mine is about 1" wide. The
difference in width should be enough to prevent people misdating your
clothing by its accessories. 

If you want to use braid cases, go ahead, but I thought that I should
let you know my disappointing findings, should you be interested. I
was really hoping they would work for me too, since my hair is only
about half as long as it needs to be to do Big Fancy Court Braids, and
my only other solution is false hair (which is hard to match in a
carrot-red!). Since I'm fussy, I do the false hair anyway.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:03:23 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


>
> Tea sandwiches sound sort of - dry and leafy?

Oddly enough, I had a similar thought, only I was thinking cold, squishy
and bitter--tea after it had been used.

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Braid cases and barbettes...do they "go together"?
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 18:47:58 +0000
Status: RO

Did someone say you had to?  You certainly want to keep your veil, and I
think the barbette should be OK - just remember, the braids come from
behind it, don't try to get them in front (or you'll look very odd
indeed).

Jean


In message <20020110000437.22889.qmail@web20304.mail.yahoo.com>, Joan
Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes
>I'm doing 12th C. English and really want to
>experiment with braid cases, but I'm not giving up my
>barbette and veil!
>
>Iohanna the Harper
>(mka Joan Hall)
>"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
>"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Braid cases and barbettes...do they "go together"?
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 18:47:58 +0000
Status: RO

Did someone say you had to?  You certainly want to keep your veil, and I
think the barbette should be OK - just remember, the braids come from
behind it, don't try to get them in front (or you'll look very odd
indeed).

Jean


In message <20020110000437.22889.qmail@web20304.mail.yahoo.com>, Joan
Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes
>I'm doing 12th C. English and really want to
>experiment with braid cases, but I'm not giving up my
>barbette and veil!
>
>Iohanna the Harper
>(mka Joan Hall)
>"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
>"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
>
>__________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches (WAS: Only slightly OT: bangs)
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 18:49:03 +0000
Status: RO


>
>
>> Tea sandwiches sound sort of - dry and leafy?
>
>UGH!
>
>Jean!!  That's a horrible thought to inflict on my poor addled brain!
>
>Teddy

Well does it mean anything to you?  I honestly don't know what a tea
sandwich is - as opposed to any other sort of sandwich, I mean.

JEan 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 10 13:22:38 2002
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 12th-century garb
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 18:52:49 +0000
Status: RO

I'm not sure how much it has specifically from Germany and Italy, but
this book has the most pictures of costume I've found for 12th century,
especially of women :

Romanesque Art - Andreas Petzold.  George Weidenfeld and Nicolson Ltd
1995  ISBN - 0297833642

Jean


In message <151.701f11b.296e1460@aol.com>, SNSpies@aol.com writes
>Hello to the list.
>
>In the near future, I am diving headlong into some deep research on the 12th 
>century, specifically as it pertains to garb in "Germany" and "Italy".  To 
>that end, I would please like to ask any and all of you for references, 
>manuscripts, primary sources, etc. that you would recommend.  
>
>I thank you all with great gratitude.
>
>Mistress Ingvild
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 10 13:23:39 2002
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches (WAS: Only slightly OT: bangs)
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:55:45 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Oh my gosh - sorry!  I assumed everyone was joking!!
Tea sandwiches [at least here in the U.S.] are little
fancy-shmancy finger sandwiches served with afternoon
tea.

Iohanna the Harper
(m.k.a. Joan Hall)
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"  


--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> >> Tea sandwiches sound sort of - dry and leafy?
> >
> >UGH!
> >
> >Jean!!  That's a horrible thought to inflict on my
> poor addled brain!
> >
> >Teddy
> 
> Well does it mean anything to you?  I honestly don't
> know what a tea
> sandwich is - as opposed to any other sort of
> sandwich, I mean.
> 
> JEan 
> 
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: [h-cost] Clogs
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:49:23 -0600
Status: RO

Hey, folks,
I found a pair of clogs in an antique shop ........
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
These look very much like clogs some friends of ours brought back from Sweden in the mid 1980's, leather is attached in almost the exactly same way.  The primary difference is that the 80's clogs have a ribbed hard rubber sole attached to the bottom of the wood.  This sole makes them very skid resistant and I have been using a pair on muddy days at faire for years, they wear well and are pretty comfortable with a pair of heavy socks.

Looks like this style has been in use for a long time, at least in parts of northern Europe.  Hope this helps.

Catherine

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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:54:14 -0600
Status: RO

I've tried wastecanvas w/ blackwork too and you really have to pay attention to the tension as Sue suggested or you can get very saggy lines once the waste canvas is removed.  Some of this disappears with washing but not all.  I also had a little bit of a problem with very fine silk thread snagging on the WC.  I think Hedgehog Handworks carrys WC in high thread counts.  

My eyesight is going too, part of the reason I switched to freestyle blackwork :).

Catherine

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From: LalahTT@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches (WAS: Only slightly OT: bangs)
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:00:11 EST
Status: RO


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       OK, children listen to mamma Lalah.  Tea sandwiches are the same as 
regular sandwiches except they are made with the crusts cut off and then cut 
in little triangles or squares or rectangles.  Some really classy ones are 
cut with fancy cutters and can look like little flowers or circles or stars.  
They are usually dressed up with something on top -- depending on what is 
inside.  A tea sandwich with deviled ham or a slice of meat of some sort may 
have an olive stuck in the top with a toothpick with ruffles on it (or a 
plain toothpick if that is the best you can do).  Another may have a dab of 
cheese swirled on top.  You should have the idea by now.  The very best Tea 
sandwiches (to me) are the ones made with cream cheese as a base.  You can 
add chopped olives, nuts, pineapple, or all manner of good stuff.  There is 
no end of what you can put in a tea sandwich and lots of ways of cutting them 
in dainty finger size bites.  Sometimes you can stack white bread, wheat 
bread white bread, wheat bread and cut them narrow so that you have layers, 
but that requires something that is sticky enough to hold it together.  Brown 
bread with cream cheese is good too. 

       Teddy, for shame, you should know that tea sandwiches are to be served 
with tea at tea time, not made from tea leaves.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;OK, children listen to mamma Lalah. &nbsp;Tea sandwiches are the same as regular sandwiches except they are made with the crusts cut off and then cut in little triangles or squares or rectangles. &nbsp;Some really classy ones are cut with fancy cutters and can look like little flowers or circles or stars. &nbsp;They are usually dressed up with something on top -- depending on what is inside. &nbsp;A tea sandwich with deviled ham or a slice of meat of some sort may have an olive stuck in the top with a toothpick with ruffles on it (or a plain toothpick if that is the best you can do). &nbsp;Another may have a dab of cheese swirled on top. &nbsp;You should have the idea by now. &nbsp;The very best Tea sandwiches (to me) are the ones made with cream cheese as a base. &nbsp;You can add chopped olives, nuts, pineapple, or all manner of good stuff. &nbsp;There is no end of what you can put in a tea sand!
wich and lots of ways of cutting them in dainty finger size bites. &nbsp;Sometimes you can stack white bread, wheat bread white bread, wheat bread and cut them narrow so that you have layers, but that requires something that is sticky enough to hold it together. &nbsp;Brown bread with cream cheese is good too. 
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Teddy, for shame, you should know that tea sandwiches are to be served with tea at tea time, not made from tea leaves.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency winter dresses
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:51:13 -0500
Status: RO

Karen asked about the knitted Regency dress. Well, I am not sure if Alison
Kondo is still on the list, but she has book containing photos of this neat
item. I have the pictures somewhere in my files (which are still packed),
but, if you can stand to wait, I may be able to put my hand on them sometime
this month!

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
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Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 10 14:55:07 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clogs
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:24:36 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Thu, 10 Jan 2002, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> Hey, folks,
> I found a pair of clogs in an antique shop ........
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> These look very much like clogs some friends of ours brought back from Sweden in the mid 1980's, leather is attached in almost the exactly same way.  The primary difference is that the 80's clogs have a ribbed hard rubber sole attached to the bottom of the wood.  This sole makes them very skid resistant and I have been using a pair on muddy days at faire for years, they wear well and are pretty comfortable with a pair of heavy socks.

Yes, I've got Swedish wooden-soled clogs, too.  But a major difference is
that these are hand-made, and very old <g>.
 
> Looks like this style has been in use for a long time, at least in parts of northern Europe.  Hope this helps.
> 
> Catherine

I should have been more specific in what I'm after:
-- any guesses as to the age of these items, when they would have been
worn, by whom... could they conceivably be early 19th c. men's overshoes?
I've since turned up two more pairs (on the web and at a museum) of
wooden-soled, leather-uppered "clogs", called men's overshoes, from the
early 19th century.  I'd love to know if similar items were worn in the
18th century, too, in the North American colonies... by men only, or by
women, too?  I am pretty sure that French colonists were wearing them, but
would love some hard evidence that English settlers wore them, as well.

-- Mara

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:49:03 -0800
Status: RO

>> Tea sandwiches sound sort of - dry and leafy?
>
>Oddly enough, I had a similar thought, only I was thinking cold, squishy
>and bitter--tea after it had been used.

No, no, that's 'tea bag' sandwiches!  ;) 

>Well does it mean anything to you?  I honestly don't know what a tea
>sandwich is - as opposed to any other sort of sandwich, I mean.

They're sandwiches to eat while drinking tea, with guests, in the front
parlour.  They're usually little triangular things of dubious nutritional
value, and with the crusts cut off.  Cucumber sandwiches fall into this
category.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:52:51 -0800
Status: RO

I may be able to put my hand on them sometime
>this month!

And post them, please?  This I gotta see.  It's right up there with the
knitted 'pluderhosen' in Rutt's hand knitting book.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:45:16 -0800
Status: RO

>>before I'm too *%&%! old to see the
>>fabric...[sigh]...

>May I suggest reading glasses, 

I figured out the waste canvas idea because reading glasses don't fit over
my bifocals.  But thanx for the hint about a magnifying lamp.  I do have
one of those.

Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Braid cases and barbettes...do they "go together"?
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:20:49 -0600
Status: RO

>From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
>Well, I'm not sure that I have *any* good news for you. :(
>(for coherency's sake, I mean mid-12th century, since that's what >most 
>people mean by '12th century')
>I haven't found any period references or depictions of braid cases.
>...

I may be misremembering, but wasn't there one in Dress Accessories?

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clogs
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:38:39 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
[...]
> I've since turned up two more pairs (on the web and at a museum) of
> wooden-soled, leather-uppered "clogs", called men's overshoes, from the
> early 19th century.  I'd love to know if similar items were worn in the
> 18th century, too, in the North American colonies... by men only, or by
> women, too?  I am pretty sure that French colonists were wearing them, but
> would love some hard evidence that English settlers wore them, as well.

English clogs tend to look a little different.  Picture a wooden sole
with a regular lace-up shoe upper nailed to the sole.  Here, I finally
found a website with photos.  

http://subscriber.scoot.co.uk/walkley_clogs/
http://subscriber.scoot.co.uk/walkley_clogs/page2.htm

Walkey's are one of the largest clog manufacturers left.  

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:28:40 -0600
Status: RO

>From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
>I found a pair of clogs in an antique shop about 20 miles from >Hanover, PA 
>last summer.  The woman running the shop had no idea >about their history. 
>I haven't asked anyone about them because I >hadn't gotten around to taking 
>pics yet... but I got a digital camera recently, so here are the pics:...
>worn in the 18th c. by German immigrants and their descendants?  I've >seen 
>enough "wooden shoes" in antique shops brought back from Europe as tourist 
>items that I'm a bit cautious, but it seems plausible that these are a 
>genuine holdover.
>I am going to ask around a bit more about them, now that I actually >have 
>some pictures taken <grin>. But -- thoughts, folks?

Ick. (I really have a personal thing about wooden shoes :) )

That being said, I'm not sure holdover is the right word, since wooden soled 
shoes were worn even in this country until the early 20th century (and for 
clog dancers, even more recently), but I'd say that these were real live 
honest to goodness clogs.

Marc

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10201081917380.24831-100000@shell.nightowl.net> <004601c1995d$7e0a5860$a962bc42@mad.chartermi.net> <3C3D8F82.ADB2EB18@gideonfamily.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Men's Elizabethan
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:19:13 -0600
Status: RO

Andrea:

OOooooohhh! Nice! Did you use patterns, or did you draft yourself?

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


> > Or if anyone has any good links of pictures/portraits of Elizabethan men
> > (preferrably more middle-class) that I can send him?
>
> >
> > Rebecca Schmitt

>
> Are you looking for period examples or would you be intrested in pictures
of
> recreations?
> Here are some pics of my husband in his middle class Elizabethan clothes.
> http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/dcp_0039a.jpg
> http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/p0001257.jpg
> http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/dcp_0079.jpg
> http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/p0000887.jpg
> Andrea

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Braid cases and barbettes...do they "go together"?
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:26:59 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Did someone say you had to> 

Just my own neurotic fear of being sneered at for TAF
(total authenticity failure)!!

> Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes
> >I'm doing 12th C. English and really want to
> >experiment with braid cases, but I'm not giving up
> my
> >barbette and veil!


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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 18:27:44 -0600 (CST)
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On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, Maggie Secara wrote:

> According to the main page, they are:
> 
> 1882 Lithographs by
> Albert Kretschmer
> Painter and Costumer to the Royal Court Theatre, Berlin

Seems like that's a secondary main page on this site. There's also a page
at <http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/costume1.htm> that shows the
decorative title page of the book, with the typed-out title "Costumes of
All Nations: Earliest times to the Ninteenth Century."

My own record on the book lists this title, which I recorded from the copy
I saw: "Costumes of All Nations, from the earliest times to the Nineteenth
century: Exhibiting the Dresses and Habits of all classes, Regal,
Ecclesiastical, Noble, Military, Judicial, and Civil." There are two
authors: Albert Kretschmer and Carl Rohrbach. My notes indicate that
Kretschmer was a German theater costumer and painter, but the book in this
form was published in London in 1882.

I use several slides from this book in a lecture I give on the Victorian
influence on medieval costume scholarship. The images are pretty
romanticized; for instance, on plate 31, which shows French costume from
1000, you'll see things like a woman holding a falcon without a glove, and
a couple of Bayeux tapestry warriors with armor far more detailed than
what's actually shown in the tapestry (indicating the artist filled in the
blanks, either with his best guess or from some unknown source). When I
researched this in more detail, I was able to trace some of the images to
an earlier, widely popular 1829 French costume book by Camille Bonnard,
which Kretschmer evidently used as one of his sources. Bonnard took lots
of liberties in his interpretations, and Kretschmer copied Bonnard's
images (with his changes intact) and made his own changes in the process.

That means that you should not rely on the accuracy of anything -- colors,
details, silhouette -- in one of Kretschmer's pictures unless you can find
and compare it to the original source. But I'm glad to see this book
online; I took only a few slides from the copy I saw, and it's nice to
have the rest ready at hand.

--Robin

> > On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> >
> > > Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find a better/closer
> > > picture of the following? Heck, can anybody tell me more about this
> > > picture in the first place?
> > >
> > > http://www.pconline.com/~tomdolan/costume/thmb6.htm
> >
> > Was there a particular one of these pictures you were interested in? The
> > link you gave shows many pages scanned from one of those Victorian
> > coffee-table costume books. I don't see a label, but if I had to lay
> > money, I'd say it's "Costumes of All Nations," by Albert Kretschmer and
> > Carl Rohrbach, published in 1882 in England according to my notes from my
> > lecture on Victorian costume scholarship. The authors are German, but I
> > don't recall whether there was an earlier German edition, or whether the
> > British publication was first.
> >
> > --Robin

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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Braid cases and barbettes...do they "go together"?
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 23:56:36 GMT
Status: RO

On Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:20:49 -0600, the following was written in this
electric book by "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>:

>>From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
>>Well, I'm not sure that I have *any* good news for you. :(
>>(for coherency's sake, I mean mid-12th century, since that's what >most 
>>people mean by '12th century')
>>I haven't found any period references or depictions of braid cases.
>>...
>
>I may be misremembering, but wasn't there one in Dress Accessories?
>
>Marc

There's a 14th century partial hairpiece (one of the braids is gone),
but that falls into the category of false hair, rather than braid
cases, and is two centuries later than the items under discussion are
supposed to have existed. You aren't misremebering exactly, but I can
see how it might seem that the one was the other - especially if you
are unlikely to have to wear such things yourself :)

I should probably note that false hair (including under that heading
anything that could be braided in, including flax line, horsehair,
wool, and silk, as well as human hair and ribbons) *is* the most
likely method for extension of the hair when and where needed during
the 12th century vogue for conspicuous long braids. However, it seems
that women not able to wear their hair in this manner may simply have
not tried to - obscured (under veils or mantles) and loose hair is
about as common as the two main types of braided hairdressing methods
in my research, so far. So, to the original poster, you don't have to
wear long braids if you don't want to. :)

An unscientific (not tallied or charted, that comes later - after I've
added in all I can find in text sources) survey of the various methods
I've seen in period artwork can be found here:
http://www.florilegium.org/files/PERSONAL/hair-msg.html about 3/4 of
the way down, in the list of messages called 'braid casings".  To find
my messages, just search for 'chimericalgirl@home.com' (my old email
address). 

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:  Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:17:44 -0800
Status: RO


There is a lovely branch of mathematics that deals with this problem.  It's
graph theory.  Your problem is quite simply resolved by applying Euler's
theorem. 
You may not realize it, but you are actually applying the theory, in a
simplified, non-generalized version. 
This page tells the story of the "Bridges of Konigsberg" game that prompted
the invention of this field. It explains both the game and the solution in
clear terms.  There are NO equations.
http://www.jcu.edu/math/vignettes/bridges.htm
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo

> First: if all the parts of a blackwork pattern touch each other in 
> some way, it can be made reversible ("can", not "must" or "will"); if 
> any parts of the design are separated from other parts and don't 
> touch, it _can't_ be made exactly reversible. 
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From: Megan McConnell <madilayn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Blackwork "paths"
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:47:09 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Actually, Heather, that is a beautifully clear
explaination - and a way I had never thought of doing
it!!! <tucks e-mail into sewing box for future
reference>

Megan M
--- Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU>
wrote:
> I don't know that this will work for everyone, but
> here's my method.
> 
> First: if all the parts of a blackwork pattern touch
> each other in 
> some way, it can be made reversible ("can", not
> "must" or "will"); if 
> any parts of the design are separated from other
> parts and don't 
> touch, it _can't_ be made exactly reversible.  (It
> may be possible to 
> stitch it such that the reverse is an equally
> pleasing pattern, but 
> it will not be exactly the same pattern.)  A slight
> modification of 
> this rule is that if you have a band pattern that
> involves more than 
> one separate bands that don't touch (e.g., a broad
> central band with 
> narrower "racing stripes"), then if you work each
> band as a separate 
> project, they can all be made reversible.
> 
> Any potentially reversible design can be visualized
> as a "branching 
> tree" structure -- that is, a single main path with
> numerous branches 
> coming off of it (which may themselves have
> branches), but where each 
> branch has an end rather than coming back into the
> pattern.  To 
> visualize this, you may have to visualize "breaks"
> in the line at 
> points were the line actually continues (e.g., a
> "lollipop" shape 
> must be "broken" where one side of the loop meets
> the stem and 
> becomes a single, unbranching line).
> 
> When you work the design, pick one path that
> continues along your 
> entire design as your "main" path (if it's a band
> with straight 
> edges, then one edge works nicely for this) and run
> a single line of 
> your running stitch along this path.
> 
> Start to return, but every time you hit a branch off
> this main path, 
> go off and work it until it is entirely done before
> you return to the 
> main path.
> 
> This explanation works better if I can doodle while
> giving it, but I 
> don't trust the stability of ascii art enough to try
> here.
> 
> Heather
> -- 
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


=====
Megan McConnell
ICQ:  57164109

"When I'm old, I don't want them to say of me, "She's  so charming." I want them to say, "Be careful, I think she's armed."    -G. Stoddart

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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:24:16 EST
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In a message dated 1/10/02 1:10:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:


> Cucumber sandwiches fall into this
> category.
> 

as in "Much Ado About Nothing" not the play, I mean you might as well eat 
air.  Don't forget the watercress!

Katrin

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#0000a0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>In a message dated 1/10/02 1:10:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, kayta@frys.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></B>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Cucumber sandwiches fall into this
<BR>category.
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#0000a0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>
<BR>as in "Much Ado About Nothing" not the play, I mean you might as well eat air. &nbsp;Don't forget the watercress!
<BR>
<BR>Katrin</B></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:46:41 -0500
Status: RO

Okay -- I now have in my posession a copy of "Costumes for stage and 
screen: patterns for women's dress 1500-1800".  Have any of you read 
through this or used any of the scaled patters to know if the author 
has included seam allowances in her scaled patterns?  I can't seem to 
find a reference anywhere to this point, and I'm not sure by looking 
at the patterns if they have been included... Admitting defeat at the 
question, I'm honestly not sure.    I'd like to make up Queen Liz' 
Phoenix gown using the pattern for the bodice, but that point is 
fairly pertinent...    

And if anyone has done such a wide necked gown, can you tell me if a 
drawstring at the neckline would actually work to keep the sleeves 
*on* the shoulders? That is what is suggested, but never having tried 
it myself, I wonder.

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:57:13 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:46 PM 01/10/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Okay -- I now have in my posession a copy of "Costumes for stage and 
>screen: patterns for women's dress 1500-1800".  Have any of you read 
>through this or used any of the scaled patters to know if the author 
>has included seam allowances in her scaled patterns? 

No, there are no seam allowances.  This is standard with theatrical
patterns, as it allows the cutter to lay the pattern, usually cut out of
heavy paper, down on the fabric and trace around it for seamlines, giving
very precisly marked stitching lines.  The seam allowances are then added on
in the desired width (usually 1" to allow for alterations.)

As for pulling up the piping cord like a drawstring at the neckline, yes, it
helps, but it doesn't replace careful fitting, only augments. 

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
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 at Jan 10, 2002 07:57:13 pm"
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 20:17:30 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Another question on her books -- what's the size/proportions of the
sloper she's using?  I couldn't find any reference to it in the one
I have.

.heather.meadows.


> At 10:46 PM 01/10/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Okay -- I now have in my posession a copy of "Costumes for stage and 
> >screen: patterns for women's dress 1500-1800".  Have any of you read 
> >through this or used any of the scaled patters to know if the author 
> >has included seam allowances in her scaled patterns? 
> 
> No, there are no seam allowances.  This is standard with theatrical
> patterns, as it allows the cutter to lay the pattern, usually cut out of
> heavy paper, down on the fabric and trace around it for seamlines, giving
> very precisly marked stitching lines.  The seam allowances are then added on
> in the desired width (usually 1" to allow for alterations.)
> 
> As for pulling up the piping cord like a drawstring at the neckline, yes, it
> helps, but it doesn't replace careful fitting, only augments. 
> 
> Margo
> 
> 
> Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
> margospatterns.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 00:13:54 EST
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In a message dated 1/10/2002 11:18:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
alice@wonderland.com writes:


> Another question on her books -- what's the size/proportions of the
> sloper she's using?  I couldn't find any reference to it in the one
> I have.
> 

page 14 

"All the patterns in this book are for a figure of approximately:
Bust     86-91cm [34-36in]
waist    63-68cm [25-27in]
N-W-B  38-40cm [15-16in]"

Also on page 10, there is a list of measurements with the chart. These 
correspond to the list above and are probably correct for the patterns. 

I have made the 1660s bodice right from the book. I had to adjust the boning 
pattern a little but this was common sense and obvious. I also greatly 
simplified the sleeve. [I don't like her sleeve patterns.] It looks 
fantastic.  

--part1_a5.20f0ed33.296fce92_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/10/2002 11:18:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, alice@wonderland.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Another question on her books -- what's the size/proportions of the
<BR>sloper she's using? &nbsp;I couldn't find any reference to it in the one
<BR>I have.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>page 14 
<BR>
<BR>"All the patterns in this book are for a figure of approximately:
<BR>Bust &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;86-91cm [34-36in]
<BR>waist &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;63-68cm [25-27in]
<BR>N-W-B &nbsp;38-40cm [15-16in]"
<BR>
<BR>Also on page 10, there is a list of measurements with the chart. These correspond to the list above and are probably correct for the patterns. 
<BR>
<BR>I have made the 1660s bodice right from the book. I had to adjust the boning pattern a little but this was common sense and obvious. I also greatly simplified the sleeve. [I don't like her sleeve patterns.] It looks fantastic. &nbsp;</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
In-Reply-To: <a5.20f0ed33.296fce92@aol.com> "from AlbertCat@aol.com at Jan 11,
 2002 00:13:54 am"
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:21:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

thanks Albert!  I have the victorian one, and I swear I could never find 
that info.

.heather.



> In a message dated 1/10/2002 11:18:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> alice@wonderland.com writes:
> 
> 
> > Another question on her books -- what's the size/proportions of the
> > sloper she's using?  I couldn't find any reference to it in the one
> > I have.
> > 
> 
> page 14 
> 
> "All the patterns in this book are for a figure of approximately:
> Bust     86-91cm [34-36in]
> waist    63-68cm [25-27in]
> N-W-B  38-40cm [15-16in]"
> 
> Also on page 10, there is a list of measurements with the chart. These 
> correspond to the list above and are probably correct for the patterns. 
> 
> I have made the 1660s bodice right from the book. I had to adjust the boning 
> pattern a little but this was common sense and obvious. I also greatly 
> simplified the sleeve. [I don't like her sleeve patterns.] It looks 
> fantastic.  

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 12th-century garb
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 00:14:44 -0600
Status: RO

SNSpies@aol.com wrote:

> In the near future, I am diving headlong into some deep research on the 12th
> century, specifically as it pertains to garb in "Germany" and "Italy".  To
> that end, I would please like to ask any and all of you for references,
> manuscripts, primary sources, etc. that you would recommend.

I was having trouble finding documentation for my time period (late 12th
C France; well, Kingdom of Burgundy).  I figured manuscripts would be a
good source.  I spoke with some scribal arts folks and found out that
not much survives from that time period; too many wars over ran the
area.

I have found one good source, however.  I believe it's German.  Herrad
of Landsberg's "Hortus Deliciarum (Garden of Delights)".  The original
manuscript was destroyed, but several tracings were made and are
available in various editions.  The version I found compares most of the
existing copies in one volume along with commentary.

Herrad of Landsberg; Hortus Deliciarum (Garden of Delights); Commentary
and Notes by A. Straub and G. Keller; Edited and Translated by Aristide
D. Cartazas; Caratza Brothers, Publishers; New Rochelle, NY, 1977.

--Charlene

-- 
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meanings?  -- George Carlin
=====
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:03:32 -0500
Status: RO

Rebecca Schmitt wrote:

> Andrea:
>
> OOooooohhh! Nice! Did you use patterns, or did you draft yourself?
>
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt

The black suit in the last picture was the first one I made and used the Med.
Misc. Period Patterns, Men's Elizabethan, about 4 years ago.  I then adapted
that pattern to a more period cut and fit.  Finally, the green outfit at the
top was based strictly from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion.

Andrea

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:29:58 -0500
Status: RO

Sounds good to me.  Are you the Crissy that works at the JoAnne's By the
University Mall in Tampa?  If so, it would be fairly easy to get together.
Moira

> Moira.... this would be a good challenge for me. It's been quite a while
since
> I've had a good one. We could start plotting after Gulf Wars. ( Sorry I
have a
> period-esque wedding gown to do before then.)
>    This could be fun! Wanna try?
>   Crissy


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Subject: Re: Re:Re: [h-cost] Off to England
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:35:49 -0500
Status: RO

> In Australia we also have travel bags with a one-way valve for when no
> powered vacuum is available.
If you try www.spacebags.com , you should be able to find some like this.
I've seen them on an ad on BBCAmerica over and over again.
Moira

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:38:53 -0500
Status: RO

The thing I have trouble with is that they don't sit right when I sit down.
(my tummy apparently sticks out beyond my chest when I sit in the
wheelchair, no matter how I try to sit.);-p  It also all moves north.
Moira
>
> >figure out the corset thing.  (Maybe even choose a decade that didn't do
> >corsets quite yet.);-D
>
> Do a thing which looks like a corset, but doesn't fit any tighter than a
> modern bustier, and you'll be fine in any corset period.  The things don't
> really have to be tight, just snug as a bra.
>
> Kayta


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:48:59 -0500
Status: RO

The last I knew, they did, as long as you had an interest in the subject.  I
do know for a fact a number of caretakers were on the list.
Moira
>
> > have you tried posting this question to the SCA-disabled list??
> >
> > their addy is medievaldisableds@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > this list is not only for SCA but all disableds who are into reinactment
>
>
> Does this group allow non-disabled lurkers?  The topic is one I'm
interested
> in.
>
> Leah


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals - Elizabethan
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 09:06:36 -0500
Status: RO

:-D  I figured if it weren't a typo, it might have been slang for something.
It would, however, most definitely be sneaky support.;-D
Moira

> > even provide meaky support for one of those big standing
> > ruff-crescent shaped affairs, perhaps?).
>
> My typos are getting worse!
>
> I meant to type *sneaky* support, not meaky (whatever that means)
>
> Teddy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:20:44 -0600
Status: RO

Kimberly Tribe wrote:
> 
> And if anyone has done such a wide necked gown, can you tell me if a
> drawstring at the neckline would actually work to keep the sleeves
> *on* the shoulders? That is what is suggested, but never having tried
> it myself, I wonder.

I have done several wide necked gowns, and a drawstring is not
necessary.  If you make the straps at the proper angle to the rest of
the bodice, and if you make them snug enough, they will stay on unless
you have really slopey shoulders.  The proper angle is something you
have to decide for yourself, but something less than 90 degrees (when
measured from the horizontal front neckline) is useful.  I don't know
what Hunnisett's pattern looks like, but take a look at Janet Arnold's
Patterns of Fashion (1560-1620), page 9, which has her conjectured
pattern of the Phoenix gown.  You'll see that the straps angle in
towards center front.  The patterns in Juan de Alcega's Pattern Book
(from 1589) look the same (he was Arnold's source, in fact).

If you still feel the shoulders slipping and you want to try a
drawstring, consider putting it only over the shoulders (and not across
the front or back) where any puckering will be hidden by the shoulder decor.

Best of luck!
Melanie Schuessler
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 09:28:52 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 11 Jan 2002, Heather wrote:

> The thing I have trouble with is that they don't sit right when I sit down.
> (my tummy apparently sticks out beyond my chest when I sit in the
> wheelchair, no matter how I try to sit.);-p  It also all moves north.
> Moira

Sounds like you need to make your stays/boned bodice a bit short-waisted,
so that it doesn't get pushed up.  

-- Mara

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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 06:58:14 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

You've probably thought of this, but I'm wondering
whether making the boned bodice very short
(high-waisted) would help with the
bending/being-a-different shape-while-sitting-down
problem.  If skirts start poofing out from the "waist"
and if you don't stand up, it might not be noticeable
that you've raised the waist.  (Of course, if you
happen to have a short torso to begin with, it might
look a little funny.)  But just thinking here, if you
were going to do some sort of farthingale over the
chair (which I think would be way cool if it works),
wouldn't you need the waist to be a little higher
anyway, so it doesn't look funny when the skirts go
over the arm rests?

Just trying to be helpful-
Angela

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From: "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:08:03 -0800
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If you go cavalier, which is 'short-waisted' to begin with, you would be =
able to stand up too.  Cavalier bodices, like some Elizabethan, can be a =
separate garment (like a doublet or jerkin) from your skirt, and has thos=
e wonderful 'skirt-like' peplums (not my period, so don't know the right =
terminology) that could hide a multitude of costuming cheats.  

Or you could go with a more ornate Italian Ren (court garb?); this style =
is typically high waisted anyways, and besides, typically uncorseted too.

I think some of the folks I know that wear italian ren do wear corsets, b=
ut since I'm not particularily well-endowed, I don't.

Just a thought...
Gia/Giacinta 

----- Original Message -----
From: Angela Kovatch
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 7:02 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals

You've probably thought of this, but I'm wondering
whether making the boned bodice very short
(high-waisted) would help with the
bending/being-a-different shape-while-sitting-down
problem.  If skirts start poofing out from the "waist"
and if you don't stand up, it might not be noticeable
that you've raised the waist.  (Of course, if you
happen to have a short torso to begin with, it might
look a little funny.)  But just thinking here, if you
were going to do some sort of farthingale over the
chair (which I think would be way cool if it works),
wouldn't you need the waist to be a little higher
anyway, so it doesn't look funny when the skirts go
over the arm rests?

Just trying to be helpful-
Angela

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>If you go cava=
lier, which is 'short-waisted' to begin with, you would be able to stand =
up too.&nbsp; Cavalier bodices, like some Elizabethan, can be a separate =
garment (like a doublet or jerkin) from your skirt, and has those wonderf=
ul 'skirt-like' peplums (not my period, so don't know the right terminolo=
gy) that could hide a multitude of costuming cheats.&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&n=
bsp;</DIV> <DIV>Or you could go with a more ornate Italian Ren (court gar=
b?); this style is typically high waisted anyways, and besides, typically=
 uncorseted too.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I&nbsp;think some of the fo=
lks I know that wear italian ren do wear corsets, but since I'm not parti=
cularily well-endowed, I don't.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Just a thoug=
ht...</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE s=
tyle=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-L=
EFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Aria=
l">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; =
FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Angela Kovatch</DIV> <DIV st=
yle=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, January 11, 2002 7:02 AM</D=
IV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> =
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] wheelchair h=
istoricals</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>You've probably thought of this, but I'=
m wondering<BR>whether making the boned bodice very short<BR>(high-waiste=
d) would help with the<BR>bending/being-a-different shape-while-sitting-d=
own<BR>problem.&nbsp; If skirts start poofing out from the "waist"<BR>and=
 if you don't stand up, it might not be noticeable<BR>that you've raised =
the waist.&nbsp; (Of course, if you<BR>happen to have a short torso to be=
gin with, it might<BR>look a little funny.)&nbsp; But just thinking here,=
 if you<BR>were going to do some sort of farthingale over the<BR>chair (w=
hich I think would be way cool if it works),<BR>wouldn't you need the wai=
st to be a little higher<BR>anyway, so it doesn't look funny when the ski=
rts go<BR>over the arm rests?<BR><BR>Just trying to be helpful-<BR>Angela=
<BR><BR>__________________________________________________<BR>Do You Yaho=
o!?<BR>Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!<BR>http://promo.yahoo.com/v=
ideomail/<BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costume=
 mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailma=
n/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
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In a message dated 1/11/2002 12:22:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
alice@wonderland.com writes:


> thanks Albert!  


My pleasure.


I have the victorian one, and I swear I could never find 

> that info.


In that volume, the measurement chart is on page 13.





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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/11/2002 12:22:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, alice@wonderland.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">thanks Albert! &nbsp;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>My pleasure.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>I have the victorian one, and I swear I could never find 
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">that info.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>In that volume, the measurement chart is on page 13.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 1/11/2002 9:20:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
melanie@faucet.net writes:


> I have done several wide necked gowns, and a drawstring is not
> necessary.  If you make the straps at the proper angle to the rest of
> the bodice, and if you make them snug enough,

True.

Ideally the draw string really shouldn't be what holds the neckline up. It 
just ensures a snug edge close to the skin. In fact one shouldn't even be 
able to detect the drawing up. It should be just a slight smidgen with no 
gathering, just some ease distributed around the shoulders and back.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/11/2002 9:20:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, melanie@faucet.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have done several wide necked gowns, and a drawstring is not
<BR>necessary. &nbsp;If you make the straps at the proper angle to the rest of
<BR>the bodice, and if you make them snug enough,</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>True.
<BR>
<BR>Ideally the draw string really shouldn't be what holds the neckline up. It just ensures a snug edge close to the skin. In fact one shouldn't even be able to detect the drawing up. It should be just a slight smidgen with no gathering, just some ease distributed around the shoulders and back.</FONT></HTML>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheelchair historicals
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 09:35:23 -0600
Status: RO

I had a "happy" accident with my latest corset.  I had made one of the
effigy design, used reeds as stays and was quite comfy with the overall
fit.  What lead to the "accident" ... I prelace the corset, wiggle into
it and then work the laces tight, usually by myself.  This means a very
long lace, that I just wrap to the front and tie into a large bow while
wearing it.  Apparently one of the first times I wore it, I pulled this
lace too tight around the waist and through the course of the day it
broke the reeds at the front waist, where you bend.  I find now that I
have a range of movement that I didn't have before and it's wonderful. 
the lower panel usually behaves (sometimes it wants to flip up) and
gives that flatness in front when standing or sitting.  -I am also one
that the tummy protrudes when I sit.  No amount of exercise or weight
loss has fixed that yet-
I have no intentions at this time to replace the broken reeds, and am
planning a second corset, trying to figure out if I should pre-break the
reeds or let it happen the same as before.

Alexandria

Heather wrote:
> 
> The thing I have trouble with is that they don't sit right when I sit down.
> (my tummy apparently sticks out beyond my chest when I sit in the
> wheelchair, no matter how I try to sit.);-p  It also all moves north.
> Moira
> >
> > >figure out the corset thing.  (Maybe even choose a decade that didn't do
> > >corsets quite yet.);-D
> >
> > Do a thing which looks like a corset, but doesn't fit any tighter than a
> > modern bustier, and you'll be fine in any corset period.  The things don't
> > really have to be tight, just snug as a bra.
> >
> > Kayta
> 
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:48:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Well does it mean anything to you?  I honestly don't know what a tea
> sandwich is - as opposed to any other sort of sandwich, I mean.

I assumed it was the "genteel" sort of sandwiches you'd have with 
tea from loose-leaf tea in a teapot and china cups with matching 
saucers, cube-sugar in a bowl with silver tongs to pick it out etc,  
rather than the huge chunky doorsteps of bread and filling wot 
people like me has with big mugs of PGTips made using teabags 
and the same spoon for stirring the tea and fishing out the teabag 
as you used to get the granulated sugar from the bag

Teddy
(Uncouth?  Me?  Abso-bloody-lutely!)

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:49:46 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Oh my gosh - sorry!  I assumed everyone was joking!!
> Tea sandwiches [at least here in the U.S.] are little
> fancy-shmancy finger sandwiches served with afternoon
> tea.

You see, Jean, she meant *posh* ones......<ggg>

Teddy

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:58:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Teddy, for shame, you should know that tea sandwiches are
> to be served with tea at tea time, not made from tea leaves. 

Hey!  I may not have known all the details but I had the general idea 
- it's *Jean*  who's the uncultured slob in this case....<GGG>

Pthphphpht!

Teddy
(going into hiding)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:23:23 -0600
Status: RO

Kimberly: Unless indicated, none of the patterns have seam allowances. I've
only used some of the patterns to dress dolls, not people and even then, I
only scaled them up or down to the height of the dolls and then altered them
to fit, of course, keeping the cut and seaming authentic. If I didn't agree,
I went to Janet Arnold's books to look for an authentic pattern. Once you
have a fit, then you can make your seam allowances the width comfortable for
you to work with.  Some people want to have more to work with in case of
fitting problems, others less. I will usually start with a half-inch wide
seam allowance and trim it down to a 1/4" wide or less, for dolls.  I find
sew-in interfacing makes better pattern pieces then tissue paper, or paper
towels, especially for dolls. I hand-sew and sew-in interfacing is something
easy to baste if you want to make sure the fit is perfect. It is more
reliable than tape and pins may scratch dolls' porcelain parts. (But you can
stick pins in with abandon on cloth parts!)

Making the foundation garments first is a must. A hard-bodied vinyl or
porcelain doll may not need a real corset or stays(adds bulk) but will need
any shifts, farthingales or bumrolls the outer costume requires.  Often
boring, but if I really want to work with the fashion fabrics and trims,
I'll make the shoes(necessary anyway) or headdress first to get that out of
my system.

With soft-bodied dolls(with porcelain limbs and shoulder or bust plates or
head and shoulder bust plate all in one), I've found that having the correct
stays or corset not only creates the correct foundation silhouette, the
dolls stuffing doesn't eventually fall victim to the force of gravity,
either(just like with people). And I stuff pretty firmly.

Cindy Abel
ILL Coordinator
Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
2500 California Plaza
Omaha NE 68178-0210
Phone: 402. 280-5144
Fax:     402.280-5134
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimberly Tribe" <Kimberly@Antiquarum.zzn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 9:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question


> Okay -- I now have in my posession a copy of "Costumes for stage and
> screen: patterns for women's dress 1500-1800".  Have any of you read
> through this or used any of the scaled patters to know if the author
> has included seam allowances in her scaled patterns?  I can't seem to
> find a reference anywhere to this point, and I'm not sure by looking
> at the patterns if they have been included... Admitting defeat at the
> question, I'm honestly not sure.    I'd like to make up Queen Liz'
> Phoenix gown using the pattern for the bodice, but that point is
> fairly pertinent...
>
> And if anyone has done such a wide necked gown, can you tell me if a
> drawstring at the neckline would actually work to keep the sleeves
> *on* the shoulders? That is what is suggested, but never having tried
> it myself, I wonder.
>
> Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
> ____________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE Web and POP E-mail Service in 14 languages at
http://www.zzn.com.
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:32:02 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Greetings to the list.

I am working on some new garb for upcoming
faire/events and have a couple of questions regarding
fabric choices.

First, what is Faustian?  Does it still exist?  What
would be a modern day equivalent?

Second, I am working on a lower middle
class/campfollower gown for the German guild at my
faire and have had it suggested to me that I could use
either wool or brushed denim.  Now did brushed denim
exist in the renaissance?  If so, would it have
necessarily been used by a lower clas individual.  If
it didn't exist, what would be the purpose in
suggesting the fabric; what is it supposed to
simulate?

Thank you.

Ghislaine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:19:58 -0000
Status: RO

>PGTips made using teabags
and the same spoon for stirring the tea and fishing out the teabag
as you used to get the granulated sugar from the bag

UGH

You''l be telling me next you don't warm the mug first & put milk in your
tea

Lady Power (aka Mel)

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan 11 13:03:57 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:35:02 EST
Status: RO


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       Oh Teddy, what would we do without you?  You really make my day with 
some of your wonderful comments.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Oh Teddy, what would we do without you? &nbsp;You really make my day with some of your wonderful comments. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric questions
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:56:52 -0800
Status: RO

Fustian is linen in one direction and cotton(?) in the other.  You can
still find this in the drapery section, but it's usually too coarsely woven
to look good for Landsknechts.

Wool is a good choice, even for summer, as it allows body heat and moisture
to pass to the outside and evaporate.  If you're doing the skirt right,
with all that waist bulk, you'll generate a lot of body heat (you knew
that).  Look for thin wool, like maybe trousers-weight, because you'll
roast in coat-weight.  Here in California I can usually find
trousers-weight wool all year 'round in VietNamese cloth stores, but I have
to be careful that it's 100% wool (never use a blend).  Underline the
pleats if you want them to look bulky, and use a band of something at the
bottom for trim, to give the hem some substance.

Also, see if you can get real linen for your shirt/chemise (but it has to
be real flax/linen and really thin), as this will be cooler than cotton.

>I am working on some new garb for upcoming
>faire/events and have a couple of questions regarding
>fabric choices.
>
>First, what is Faustian?  Does it still exist?  What
>would be a modern day equivalent?
>
>Second, I am working on a lower middle
>class/campfollower gown for the German guild at my
>faire and have had it suggested to me that I could use
>either wool or brushed denim.  Now did brushed denim
>exist in the renaissance?  If so, would it have
>necessarily been used by a lower clas individual.  If
>it didn't exist, what would be the purpose in
>suggesting the fabric; what is it supposed to
>simulate?
>
>Thank you.
>
>Ghislaine
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:03:35 -0800
Status: RO

Does one have to put milk (etc.) in ones tea to be English?  And I was so
disappointed, when I went to Australia, to find coffee drinkers in the
majority.  (I'm an American tea-drinker, and iced tea is fine with me, but
I never put anything in my tea, hot or cold.)  

Obligatory costume note - is tea dying harmful to fabric?  I heard that the
acid in tea can damage the fibres over the years, and that one should use
decaf-coffee for dying instead.

>>PGTips made using teabags
>and the same spoon for stirring the tea and fishing out the teabag
>as you used to get the granulated sugar from the bag
>
>UGH
>
>You''l be telling me next you don't warm the mug first & put milk in your
>tea
>
>Lady Power (aka Mel)
>
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan 11 13:36:45 2002
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:14:44 -0800
Status: RO

'Cavalier' period is good for this, as it is already short-waisted, and
there's lots of room for really elaborate decoration and needlework.  You
can get do of the gold, lace, jewelry, and general opulence that the
Elizabethans did, and still sit gracefully.  And if you have anything like
hips, you won't need a roll-farthingale to build, to wear, and to figure
out where it's going in your chair.

I'd still go for slip-covers for at least the arms and back of the chair.
I'd do it in silver and black, the colours most chairs come in.  If you're
doing late period anyway, you can use braid, fringe, tassels, velvet,
brocade - and really do it up splendid.

What I really want is one of those Victorian wood and cane invalid-chairs
with wheels, whether or not they can be propelled by the sitter.  Every
once in a while they are just the thing for living history events, like
when I blow my knees out (again) morris dancing.

>You've probably thought of this, but I'm wondering
>whether making the boned bodice very short
>(high-waisted) would help with the
>bending/being-a-different shape-while-sitting-down
>problem.  If skirts start poofing out from the "waist"
>and if you don't stand up, it might not be noticeable
>that you've raised the waist.  (Of course, if you
>happen to have a short torso to begin with, it might
>look a little funny.)  But just thinking here, if you
>were going to do some sort of farthingale over the
>chair (which I think would be way cool if it works),
>wouldn't you need the waist to be a little higher
>anyway, so it doesn't look funny when the skirts go
>over the arm rests?
>
>Just trying to be helpful-
>Angela
>
>__________________________________________________
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: historicals on dolls (was Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern
  Question)
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:45:02 -0800
Status: RO

I like to build dolls to fit the historical pattern book patterns at their
printed sizes, or at least to fit an easy enlargement of them.  I spend so
much time fussing with patterns for myself that I hate to have to do it for
dolls.

No pins - I got some little wooden clothespins for one of my dolls, but I
use them for holding crochet/knit pieces together before sewing.  These may
work for holding doll cloth parts together, if pins might harm something.  

Corsetting - I find that if I stuff a little loosely, the corset adds back
the bulk I didn't put in, so the doll gets her corset and I get to be a
snobby purist and know that she has one.

>Kimberly: Unless indicated, none of the patterns have seam allowances. I've
>only used some of the patterns to dress dolls, not people and even then, I
>only scaled them up or down to the height of the dolls and then altered them
>to fit, of course, keeping the cut and seaming authentic. If I didn't agree,
>I went to Janet Arnold's books to look for an authentic pattern. Once you
>have a fit, then you can make your seam allowances the width comfortable for
>you to work with.  Some people want to have more to work with in case of
>fitting problems, others less. I will usually start with a half-inch wide
>seam allowance and trim it down to a 1/4" wide or less, for dolls.  I find
>sew-in interfacing makes better pattern pieces then tissue paper, or paper
>towels, especially for dolls. I hand-sew and sew-in interfacing is something
>easy to baste if you want to make sure the fit is perfect. It is more
>reliable than tape and pins may scratch dolls' porcelain parts. (But you can
>stick pins in with abandon on cloth parts!)
>
>Making the foundation garments first is a must. A hard-bodied vinyl or
>porcelain doll may not need a real corset or stays(adds bulk) but will need
>any shifts, farthingales or bumrolls the outer costume requires.  Often
>boring, but if I really want to work with the fashion fabrics and trims,
>I'll make the shoes(necessary anyway) or headdress first to get that out of
>my system.
>
>With soft-bodied dolls(with porcelain limbs and shoulder or bust plates or
>head and shoulder bust plate all in one), I've found that having the correct
>stays or corset not only creates the correct foundation silhouette, the
>dolls stuffing doesn't eventually fall victim to the force of gravity,
>either(just like with people). And I stuff pretty firmly.
>
>Cindy Abel
>ILL Coordinator
>Health Sciences Library
>Creighton University
>2500 California Plaza
>Omaha NE 68178-0210
>Phone: 402. 280-5144
>Fax:     402.280-5134
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kimberly Tribe" <Kimberly@Antiquarum.zzn.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 9:46 PM
>Subject: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
>
>
>> Okay -- I now have in my posession a copy of "Costumes for stage and
>> screen: patterns for women's dress 1500-1800".  Have any of you read
>> through this or used any of the scaled patters to know if the author
>> has included seam allowances in her scaled patterns?  I can't seem to
>> find a reference anywhere to this point, and I'm not sure by looking
>> at the patterns if they have been included... Admitting defeat at the
>> question, I'm honestly not sure.    I'd like to make up Queen Liz'
>> Phoenix gown using the pattern for the bodice, but that point is
>> fairly pertinent...
>>
>> And if anyone has done such a wide necked gown, can you tell me if a
>> drawstring at the neckline would actually work to keep the sleeves
>> *on* the shoulders? That is what is suggested, but never having tried
>> it myself, I wonder.
>>
>> Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> Get your own FREE Web and POP E-mail Service in 14 languages at
>http://www.zzn.com.
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Pattern Question & keeping shoulders in place
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:09:27 EST
Status: RO

When I do a gown that has widely set shoulders I pin the shoulders to either 
the chemise, the partlet or the shoulders of my bodeys (depending which one 
works best on that gown). So far I've not had a problem with them drooping. 
Corsage pins work well, they are long and slick and if they show they have a 
nice pearl on the end.
Lady G
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:51:01 -0500
Status: RO

Providence Day School
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If you have just more time on your hands than you know what to do with,
check out this site...

http://www.amn.org/#

Jessamyn

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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:12:16 -0500
Status: RO

Thank you!  =)  I will add in the allowances and keep you all posted 
as I proceed (and as I hit road blocks! *lol*).  

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:29:57 -0000
Status: RO

No one does NOT have to put milk in it unless one is a builder ;) Neither
does one ice tea I believe they do in France however. Much to my shame my
son drinks iced tea, send him to France for 6 months & he returns with such
filthy habits ;)


Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 12th-century garb
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:04:40 -0800
Status: RO

I've snipped the SCA-Laurels list off the "to" line, because I'm not 
sure it's a good idea to cross-post to a restricted list.

At 4:47 PM -0500 1/9/02, SNSpies@aol.com wrote:
>Hello to the list.
>
>In the near future, I am diving headlong into some deep research on the 12th
>century, specifically as it pertains to garb in "Germany" and "Italy".  To
>that end, I would please like to ask any and all of you for references,
>manuscripts, primary sources, etc. that you would recommend.

Contributing from my specialty, here's a list of the surviving 
garments attributed to the 12th century from Germany, Austria, 
Switzerland, and Italy that I am currently aware of.  Geographic 
references are to the current location, not always the location of 
origin.  I've given one reference for each, either the most useful, 
or one from another book I'm referencing frequently.  Unfortunately, 
but understandably, the majority of these items are ecclesiastical 
(the primary exception being the HRE vestments, which don't exactly 
count as "ordinary").

Austria

Holy Roman Empire vestments (at the Vienna Schatzkammer)
- alb and leggings associated with William II (Fillitz 1964, figs. 52, 57)
- silk tunic (the one with the gold tube-bead embroidery on the 
cuffs) and embroidered cloak (the lion & camel one) associated with 
Roger II (many references, but I'll stick with Fillitz 1964, figs. 
53, 56, pl.5)

Germany

Bamburg Cathedral
- dalmatic associated with Otto II (Müller-Christensen 1960 -- but 
I've got question marks in the database, so it may be I've got the 
reference wrong)

Passau Cathedral
- a "tunicella", IIRC this is an ecclesiastical dalmatic-like garment 
(Bayerischen Nationalmuseum 1955 #49)

Switzerland

Delemont
- leggins in nalebinding associated with Saint Germain (Schmedding 1978)

?location?
- alb associated with St. Hugo (Schmedding 1978 #289)

Italy

Vatican Museum
- two dalmatics falsely associated with Charlemagne, actually most 
likely 12th c. (Roma 1938 pl. 257)

Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome
- alb associated with St. Thomas Becket (Butler 1995)

Florence
- cope and nalebinding gloves associated with Bishop Bernardo degli 
Uberti (Müller-Christensen 1960 pl. 84, 106)

Bibliography

Bayerischen Nationalmuseum.  1955.  Sakrale Gewänder des 
Mittelalters.  Ausstellung im Bayerischen Nationalmuseum München.

Butler, John.  1995.  The Quest for Becket's Bones.  Yale University 
Press, New Haven.

Fillitz, Hermann.  1964.  Die Schatzkammer in Wien.  Schrollverlag, Wien.

Müller-Christensen, Sigrid.  1960.  Das Grab des Papstes Clemens II. 
im Dom zu Bamberg.  Verlag F. Bruckmann, München.

Roma .. Mostra del tessile nazionale ....  1938.  L'Antico Tessuto 
d'Arte Italiano.  La Libreria dello Stato, Rome.

Schmedding 1978 (this is the book on relics in Switzerland, but I 
don't have the full reference handy at the moment)

-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:27:13 -0800
Status: RO

The woman shopkeeper who sold me my first saree said I should pin the
over-the-shoulder-hanging-down end (=palu) to my bra strap to keep it from
slipping off.  I think the Scottish have a special decorated brooch for
keeping their over-the-shoulder plaid things in place.

>When I do a gown that has widely set shoulders I pin the shoulders to either 
>the chemise, the partlet or the shoulders of my bodeys (depending which one 
>works best on that gown). So far I've not had a problem with them drooping. 
>Corsage pins work well, they are long and slick and if they show they have a 
>nice pearl on the end.

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:11:37 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Try  www.tudorgroup.co.uk  for some excellent folks with some good
info on the subject.  Mike T.

> Or if anyone has any good links of pictures/portraits of Elizabethan men
> (preferrably more middle-class) that I can send him?

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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:17:07 -0500
Status: RO

The very same one.  I've got to work tomorrow so I won't be at the event, but
we'll definitely "run into" each other soon enough.
  I think it'll be fun!

Crissy

Heather wrote:

> Sounds good to me.  Are you the Crissy that works at the JoAnne's By the
> University Mall in Tampa?  If so, it would be fairly easy to get together.
> Moira
>
> > Moira.... this would be a good challenge for me. It's been quite a while
> since
> > I've had a good one. We could start plotting after Gulf Wars. ( Sorry I
> have a
> > period-esque wedding gown to do before then.)
> >    This could be fun! Wanna try?
> >   Crissy
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:17:23 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Mara, they look like English foundry clogs from the 19th cent. They
appear stylistically to be women's, though. Mike T.



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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 19:46:18 -0800
Status: RO

I just got a German beer stein to use at Ren. Faire.  Steins look very
German, and un-English, so it doesn't matter to my Landsknecht
fair-character that this one's probably a 1930's tourist item.  At least
it's more period-like than most of the mugs sold at these events.

It's heavy grey stoneware with a raised design peeking thru cobalt blue
glaze.  There are two lions, rampant, one holding a long-handled scoop in
one paw, and the other holding a tiny barrel on a long handle (brewers'
tools?).  Both are resting their other paws on a half-barrel, out of which
are sprouting a head of wheat (barley?) and what look like hops.  It was
made in an at-least-4-piece mold.  It has a hinged metal (pewter?) lid and
sits about 6" tall.

Anyway, there is a ribbon above the lions, and another below, which say
"Hopfen u. Malz" (hops and malt?) and "Gott erhalt's" (God something).  My
German is rusty and my dictionary is somewhere in storage.  What does '
erhalt's ' mean?

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:49:46 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 11/1/02 9:39:39 PM, kayta@frys.com writes:

<< "Hopfen u. Malz" (hops and malt?) and "Gott erhalt's" (God something) >>

God Recieves. My mom collects this stuff and has a really old one like it, 
she has the translations on little slips of paper inside each stein or mug or 
teeny little butter churn. Hops and Malt is correct too.
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bier Stein Deutsch, bitte?
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:50:23 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 11/1/02 9:39:39 PM, kayta@frys.com writes:
<< tiny barrel on a long handle >>
It's a taster.
Lady G
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:07:42 -0800
Status: RO

><< "Hopfen u. Malz" (hops and malt?) and "Gott erhalt's" (God something) >>
>
>God Recieves. My mom collects this stuff and has a really old one like it, 
>she has the translations on little slips of paper inside each stein or mug or 
>teeny little butter churn. Hops and Malt is correct too.

><< tiny barrel on a long handle >>
>It's a taster.

Shows what I know.  I've been drinking iced tea out of mine since I got it
(washed first).  If it's really stoneware, there won't be any lead in the
glaze - does your mother know if they are?  And, if she has one like mine,
how old does she think they are?

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 12th-century garb
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 19:51:13 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:04 AM -0800 1/11/02, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>?location?
>- alb associated with St. Hugo (Schmedding 1978 #289)

It's at the Carthusian abbey of La Valsainte in Switzerland, 
according to Schmedding.

>Schmedding 1978 (this is the book on relics in Switzerland, but I 
>don't have the full reference handy at the moment)

_Mittelalterliche Textilien in Kirchen und Kl{o:}stern der Schweiz_, 
by Brigitta Schmedding, Schriften der Abegg-Stiftung Bern, 1978; ISBN 
3-7272-9682-8
-- 
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O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea dying, was sandwiches
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:54:47 -0500
Status: RO

I've never heard about damaging fiber, so I won't comment on that. I 
must admit, I was never worried about really long term effects.

Tea and coffee give  you different colors and effects, though. Coffee is 
darker. For a stage costume, if I'm just dipping down, or I want 
something to look a bit gently aged, I use tea. When I want something to 
look really old and dirty (Ex. the tramps in  Waiting for Godot) I use 
coffee. The color will travel to the last area to dry, so you can get 
some cool effects, to get muddy hems, dirty cuffs, etc. Very natural 
looking.

Anne

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>Obligatory costume note - is tea dying harmful to fabric?  I heard that the
>acid in tea can damage the fibres over the years, and that one should use
>decaf-coffee for dying instead.
>



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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:51:28 -0800
Status: RO

I recently decided to buy a new antique or antique-style bedspread
with hand embroidery and/or lace.  I did a great deal of net searching
for one.  The search concluded, and my spread being on its way from
the merchant, I thought I'd post some of the links I found.

Fran Grimble

Antique Linens
http://www.antique-linens.com/
Vintage household linens, paisley shawls

China Home 2000
New table and bed linens embroidered by hand and hand-guided machine

Dusty Calabash's General Store
http://dustycalabash.com
Vintage household linens and quilts

The House of Linens
http://www.thehouseoflinens.com/index.htm
New hand-embroidered and hand lace table and bed linens; woven
tapestries

Jacques Antiques and Collectables Linen and Lace
http://www.jacques-antiques.com.au/linen.htm
Vintage  household linens

La Belle Collectibles Vintage Linens & Lace
http://www.labellecollectibles.com

Lavish Linens
Vintage household linens and clothing

The Linen Merchant
http://www.thelinenmerchant.com/
New hand-embroidered and other household linens

The Old Lace and Linen Shop
http://www.antiquelinen.com/
Vintage and antique household linens, lingerie, shawls, and lace
accessories

Old Parsonage Antiques
http://www.oldparsonage.com/
Vintage household linens, some with handwork, and quilts; other
household items

Pieces of History Antique Linens
http://www.tias.com/stores/kayhless/
Vintage household linens and lace yardage

Rochester Kline Antique Linens
http://www.antiquelinens.org/
Vintage household linens

Romance Remembered by Cresa
http://www.rrbycresa.com/
Vintage  household linens--small selection

Vintage Linen Warehouse
http://vintagelinen.com/
Vintage household linens, and lace collars, etc. for garments.  Hand
lace and embroidery










---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
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Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming thoughts...
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 23:29:59 -0600
Status: RO

Hello all,

Anne Murphy, whom I know from another mailing list, graciously invited me 
to join in on this mailing list.  I would like to begin by giving a brief 
bit about me :-)

I am a fairly complete newbie to the world of costuming.  Heck, I am new to 
sewing.  My mother taught me how to use a sewing machine when I was 12 or 
so, and I didn't touch one until this Summer.  The few things I've done 
were not really historically accurate, nor really all that well put 
together, but!  I had fun, and it's better than showing up at an SCA event 
wearing nothing at all <grin>  I am sure I will learn a lot from y'all :-)

I work as a disability rights advocate, mostly.  I use a manual wheelchair, 
as I'm a paraplegic.  In a "prior life" I was a chef by trade.  I feel I 
could say much more, but then, I guess you'll all get to know me, or not :-)

On the topic of dealing with a chair and skirts...  Well, I might be a guy, 
but I do have a couple ideas about this :-)  When my wife was alive, we 
devised a way to mount half a hoola hoop to the front of her chair, with a 
"return U" so any material wouldn't just slide off and into the wheels.  I 
can draw a quick graphic if anyone would like to see.  I fear I have no 
pictures of it anywhere :-(

Someone suggested:
<<Could you make a frame to go over the chair that would hold the
skirts out over and away from the wheels (like a really big "wheel-
farthingale arrangement)? >>

This isn't really a good idea, as it stands.  Perhaps with some work.  The 
reason it's not such a good idea is because the way to reach the wheels 
seems to be very limited, and probably wouldn't afford one the 
reach/leverage needed to push a chair...  That is, if we're talking manual 
wheelchair.  It's worth exploring though :-)

Someone mentionned joining the SCA-Disabilities list.  I'm on that 
list.  If you have a disability or have a loved one who does, please come 
on in.  One of the thoughts we're currently kicking around is the formation 
of an SCA wide Household that would work on providing resources to 
autocrats and other offices so their event sites are accessible...  Looking 
for people interested in getting involved in a *working* household :-)

Someone else said:
<<My favourite suggestion for wheelchair folks is to decorate the chair 
itself.  This will tend to frame the sitter whatever he/she is wearing. >>

Each time I hear this suggestion, I have heckles go up in the back of my 
neck...  I shall give the benefit of the doubt to the person who said 
this.  Alas, too often this suggestion is made with the idea of wanting to 
*hide* the chair.  It's one thing to want to decorate a chair, but let's 
not do it for the wrong reasons.  Yes, I'm one of those "I'm a gimp and I'm 
proud" kinda guy :-)

On the topic of slip covers:
<<I'd do it in silver and black, the colours most chairs come in. >>

M'lady, I beg to differ...  Less and less folks using chairs go for these 
colours...  My chair is the shifting colour of oil on water in the 
sunshine.  Many chair are cherry red (my wife's was).  Electric blue.  Neon 
Yellow.  Lime green.  And many other colours.

Someone mentionned wheelchairs not being "period".  Here again I beg to 
differ.  Of course, chairs as we know them today weren't 
period.  Especially not power chairs (electric chair makes me think of a 
completely different type of chairs <grin>).  But there is documentation I 
believe for wheelchairs going back to the 1400's or so.  I myself do not 
have it, but can get it through someone else if you are interested.

On the topic of corsets riding up...  Well, I oft wear a back brace that 
many have compared to a corset :-)  The reason it doesnt' ride UP is 
because it's stopped at the armpit...  Perhaps that concept can be 
used?  Another thought would be to have a belt/hooks system.  Sit on the 
belt, get the hooks at the bottom of the corset to attach to the belt, and 
the thing won't ride up.

These are just a few quick thoughts...

Other concerns I know happen are such as:
-alternate method of fastening clothes that don't disrupt the period look, 
yet allow one with arthritis to fasten the garments.
-reinforcement of sides where garments may/will rub on chairs and wear 
out.  Shame to wear out a garment in a few outings...
-I'm drawing a blank, brain farting :-(


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:39:09 -0700
Status: RO

Ah, but you've got great long hair, a wonderful new Big Blak Dawg (tm),
and you _cook_.....<g>
--Sue (maire on the sca-cooks list....heh, heh, heh....we're
*everywhere*)

Gorgeous Muiredach wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Anne Murphy, whom I know from another mailing list, graciously invited me
> to join in on this mailing list.  I would like to begin by giving a brief
> bit about me :-)
> 
> I am a fairly complete newbie to the world of costuming.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming thoughts...
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 01:06:46 -0500
Status: RO

OK, I should have warned him there'd be familiar people... but I thought 
he'd be interested in this discussion. He'd asked me a question about 
historic costume a few months ago, because he (correctly) didn't trust 
something in a pattern. So I also thought he'd fit in.

Anne


Sue Clemenger wrote:

>Ah, but you've got great long hair, a wonderful new Big Blak Dawg (tm),
>and you _cook_.....<g>
>--Sue (maire on the sca-cooks list....heh, heh, heh....we're
>*everywhere*)
>
>Gorgeous Muiredach wrote:
>
>>Hello all,
>>
>>Anne Murphy, whom I know from another mailing list, graciously invited me
>>to join in on this mailing list.  I would like to begin by giving a brief
>>bit about me :-)
>>
>>I am a fairly complete newbie to the world of costuming.
>>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming
  thoughts...
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:26:43 -0800
Status: RO

>Well, I might be a guy, 

Guys often have very helpful ideas about what women look good in.

><<My favourite suggestion for wheelchair folks is to decorate the chair 
>itself.  This will tend to frame the sitter whatever he/she is wearing.
>
>Each time I hear this suggestion, I have hackles go up in the back of my 
>neck...  I shall give the benefit of the doubt to the person who said 
>this.

I'm the one who said this, and I meant decorate.  What I had in mind is to
make a plain chair look like a very fancy chair, like with re-upholstered
arms and a drape down the back.  It's the difference between my mother's
chrome and plastic kitchen chairs and my grandmother's antique front-room
chairs.  A slipcover would solve the decorating problem in such a way that
nothing slid out of place and interfered with the wheels.  And you could
make pockets in the sides of the chair arm covers.

Yes, I'm one of those "I'm a gimp and I'm 
>proud" kinda guy :-)

I met a guy in Australia who said "If you can't take advantage of your
disability, you don't deserve to be crippled", in 1982, after he had
successfully faced down an anxious but stopped car which wanted to drive
thru the marked crosswalk he was about to use.

><<I'd do it in silver and black, the colours most chairs come in. >>
>
>M'lady, I beg to differ...  Less and less folks using chairs go for these 
>colours...  My chair is the shifting colour of oil on water in the 
>sunshine.  Many chair are cherry red (my wife's was).  Electric blue.  Neon 
>Yellow.  Lime green.  And many other colours.

That makes me old.  They always used to come in black and chrome only.  And
my housemate's chairs are both in those colours.

>Someone mentionned wheelchairs not being "period".  Here again I beg to 
>differ.  Of course, chairs as we know them today weren't 
>period.  Especially not power chairs (electric chair makes me think of a 
>completely different type of chairs <grin>).  But there is documentation I 
>believe for wheelchairs going back to the 1400's or so.  I myself do not 
>have it, but can get it through someone else if you are interested.

I agree that wheeled chairs for those who need them go way back (I saw a
picture of one from the mid-1700's just yesterday).  But my housemate's
newer chair is definitely not period (it has more features than my car
does).  I think I was trying to say that while motorized chairs aren't
period, chairs are one thing everyone will forgive for not being period,
and they might as well look as fancy as the rest of your outfit.

>-alternate method of fastening clothes that don't disrupt the period look, 
>yet allow one with arthritis to fasten the garments.

If the fasteners don't show, who's to know if they're period or not?
(Someone in a Victorian costume workshop asked the instructor what if
someone noticed his trousers fly zipped instead of buttoning, and the
instructor said "If they're that close, they're not interested in
authenticity".) 

Kayta
   //// \\\
  ////-@@\\\
 ((((   7 )))
  (((  <> ))))
     )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 08:36:34 EST
Status: RO


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Dear Kayta and everyone:

The Saying Hopfen und Malz -Gott erhalts means:

       Hops and Malt - May God keep and preserve them.

It is an old saying used in Bavaria.  How old?  I am not sure.  But Hops and 
Malt are the ingredient for brewing beer.  In Bavaria in Weihenstephan to be 
exact is a University for Brewers.  Yes, a University.  Brewing is considered 
a science like medicine, law etc.  The Bavarians take brewing very seriously. 
 In Bavaria they have documented laws dating back into the 1500s about the 
brewing of beer.  Within the last year however documents were discovered in 
Thuringia dating even further back about the same subject.  I am originally 
from Bavaria.  I am not a beer drinker however, but the saying and the facts 
about the brewing laws were taught to us in elementary school.  Not to 
encourage beer drinking but as cultural history.
Beer is also referred to as "liquid bread" at times.
The type of Bierstein you are describing is a very traditional old style.  
Usually ones made for tourists were and are very colorful.  But most Germans 
do drink their beer out of a stein, mostly plainer than you describe, but 
similar.
As to the tools the animals are holding yes both are brewers tools.
If you really want more info I am sure you can find it somewhere on the 
Internet, but I figured the saying was what you really wanted to know about!
Elisabeth von Hahn
(SCA Elisabeth Johanna von der Flossenburg)
 



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Dear Kayta and everyone:
<BR>
<BR>The Saying Hopfen und Malz -Gott erhalts means:
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hops and Malt - May God keep and preserve them.
<BR>
<BR>It is an old saying used in Bavaria. &nbsp;How old? &nbsp;I am not sure. &nbsp;But Hops and Malt are the ingredient for brewing beer. &nbsp;In Bavaria in Weihenstephan to be exact is a University for Brewers. &nbsp;Yes, a University. &nbsp;Brewing is considered a science like medicine, law etc. &nbsp;The Bavarians take brewing very seriously. &nbsp;In Bavaria they have documented laws dating back into the 1500s about the brewing of beer. &nbsp;Within the last year however documents were discovered in Thuringia dating even further back about the same subject. &nbsp;I am originally from Bavaria. &nbsp;I am not a beer drinker however, but the saying and the facts about the brewing laws were taught to us in elementary school. &nbsp;Not to encourage beer drinking but as cultural history.
<BR>Beer is also referred to as "liquid bread" at times.
<BR>The type of Bierstein you are describing is a very traditional old style. &nbsp;Usually ones made for tourists were and are very colorful. &nbsp;But most Germans do drink their beer out of a stein, mostly plainer than you describe, but similar.
<BR>As to the tools the animals are holding yes both are brewers tools.
<BR>If you really want more info I am sure you can find it somewhere on the Internet, but I figured the saying was what you really wanted to know about!
<BR>Elisabeth von Hahn
<BR>(SCA Elisabeth Johanna von der Flossenburg)
<BR> 
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 10:37:10 -0600
Status: RO

Sidonia Ros wrote:
> 
> Second, I am working on a lower middle
> class/campfollower gown for the German guild at my
> faire and have had it suggested to me that I could use
> either wool or brushed denim.  Now did brushed denim
> exist in the renaissance?  If so, would it have
> necessarily been used by a lower clas individual.  If
> it didn't exist, what would be the purpose in
> suggesting the fabric; what is it supposed to
> simulate?

While there was cotton in Europe before 1600, it doesn't seem to have
been made into fabric as commonly as it was used to make stuffing for
padded clothing or other objects.  Which isn't to say that it _wasn't_
made into fabric, just that it doesn't seem to have been as common as
wool (correct me if I'm wrong, anyone!).  Here are a couple of sites
that have a bit of info on this:

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/periodfab.html
http://users.aol.com/maist/cotton1.htm

Twill (denim is twill) was of course a weave that had been used for
centuries, and it could be that the person who suggested brushed denim
wanted to give you a less expensive option that would have the weight
and surface (though not the drape) of a heavy wool fabric.  Denim,
unless you get a really really soft one, will be much crisper and
stiffer than a dress-weight wool.  As has been pointed out, you can get
finer and cooler wools, but you'll pay much more for them than you will
for brushed denim.

Happy Shopping!
Melanie
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From: LadyGryphon@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bier Stein Deutsch, bitte?
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 11:54:14 EST
Status: RO

Most of Momma's steins are from the 1800's, the oldest piece is from 1790, 
the newest is from about 1910. That's one of the things that scares me about 
the mold thing-she's an antique dealer, her house is full of antiques that 
cannot be replaced in todays market at any price. All of the stuff in there 
would have to be destroyed, as a good deal of it is wood. All of the 
furniture I grew up with that I'd planned on passing down to MY kids. The 
rocking chair my great great great grandfather made for my equally great 
grandmother when she was pregnant for the first time, how could that be 
replaced? by a new rocker from Macy's? I think not. I've got to stop crying 
about this, there's nothing that can be done.
Sorry,
Lady G
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Subject: [h-cost] Yarn/Wool shop in Chicago?
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 11:56:40 -0500
Status: RO

This question is for the weavers, spinners, etc on the list...

I've grown tired of the yarn stores in the Detroit area, and happen to 
begoing to Chicago next weekend. I'm hoping that someone can recommend a
shop or two that are good.  (I'm really hoping for something along the
lines of Vogue for fabric, but for yarn and wool)

Any advice?
Parsla

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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 11:24:38 -0600
Status: RO

Parsla,

I have no clue myself, but know someone who might, though I doubt she's on 
this list.  I'll forward your mail to her and she might be able to help you.

I'm in Chicago.  :-)  If you have some time, you might want to come by an 
SCA 12th night event on the Saturday.



Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Subject: Re:Re: [h-cost] 12th Night in Chicago- Was: Yarn/Wool shop in Chicago?
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 18:06:20 GMT
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It appears that there will be several of us from the list at 12th Night. This might be a great opportunity to get together for a chat or lunch or something. How will we recognize each other? The classic big, red 'H'? 

Karen




---------- Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net> writes:

From: Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yarn/Wool shop in Chicago?
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 11:24:38 -0600

Parsla,

I have no clue myself, but know someone who might, though I doubt she's on 
this list.  I'll forward your mail to her and she might be able to help you.

I'm in Chicago.  :-)  If you have some time, you might want to come by an 
SCA 12th night event on the Saturday.



Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 12 12:46:20 2002
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 10:11:47 +0000
Status: RO

Could someone kindly post the SCA disabilities list address again?

I accidently deleted it.
Thanks!

			Arlys

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Subject: Re:Re: [h-cost] 12th Night in Chicago- Was: Yarn/Wool shop in
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 12:27:40 -0600
Status: RO

At 12:06 PM 1/12/2002, you wrote:

>It appears that there will be several of us from the list at 12th Night. 
>This might be a great opportunity to get together for a chat or lunch or 
>something. How will we recognize each other? The classic big, red 'H'?

Dunno about what the classic big red H is :-)

I think I'll be fairly easy to spot...  Probably the only guy in a manual 
wheelchair wearing a "kilt" with long hair <grin>  The kilt only is not an 
identifier at an SCA event, though it is if I do disability rights 
events.  The chair alone is not an identifier when I do disability rights 
events...  Put all together, you can't miss me :-)

Here's another help, picture of me:
http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/temp/wixpix.html
Note that the page is meant for pictures o my Big Blak Dawg (tm), but 
there's one of me there.  Wixie shan't be with me at 12th night, as our 
training together isn't far enough along yet :-(

I invite anyone to come to me and chat :-)


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming thoughts...
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 10:09:07 +0000
Status: RO

> >-alternate method of fastening clothes that don't disrupt the 
> period look, yet allow one with arthritis to fasten the garments.

Can you manage velcro tabs? You could embellish the tops of them to look
like a period fastener, but they would be much easier to manage.

If people can't deal with the fact you have to adjust your clothes for a
disability, that's their tough luck!

I've had rheumatoid arthritis for 19 years, and while I am not in your
situation, and my garb is about three centuries earlier, I too have made
adjustments. My skirts are a little longer in back then in front, falling
to the tops of my feet in the front so they aren't a tripping hazard. All
of my clothes are pull-over--cottes and sideless surcoats. I can toss my
veil over my head and hold it in place with my Laurel circlet--no, I'm a
music Laurel :)

I haven't figured out shoes yet. I have really good modern walking shoes
with velcro closures.

I can appreciate your drive for authenticity--I seek it too in the arts I
pursue--but independence is a huge, HUGE thing and being able to handle
as much on your own as possible is something to be treasured.

Good luck! :-)

			Arlys
 
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 12:43:25 -0600
Status: RO

At 04:11 AM 1/12/2002, you wrote:
>Could someone kindly post the SCA disabilities list address again?

The one I take part in is a Yahoo Group, called SCA Disabilities.  You 
would go to Yahoo, and follow instructions:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Disabilities/

Hope to see you there soon

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 19:13:27 GMT
Status: RO

The Big Red 'H', started as a way for list members to recognize each other at events we might attend. Generally it involves writing an 'H' on your name tag if there is one or wearing a piece of cloth or paper with a red 'H' on it pinned to your costume. Since you are going to be one of the more easily recognizable people there, are you volunteering to be a rendezvous point? (She says grinning evily)


Karen








---------- Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net> writes:

From: Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re:Re: [h-cost] 12th Night in Chicago- Was: Yarn/Wool shop in
  Chicago?
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 12:27:40 -0600

At 12:06 PM 1/12/2002, you wrote:

>It appears that there will be several of us from the list at 12th Night. 
>This might be a great opportunity to get together for a chat or lunch or 
>something. How will we recognize each other? The classic big, red 'H'?

Dunno about what the classic big red H is :-)

I think I'll be fairly easy to spot...  Probably the only guy in a manual 
wheelchair wearing a "kilt" with long hair <grin>  The kilt only is not an 
identifier at an SCA event, though it is if I do disability rights 
events.  The chair alone is not an identifier when I do disability rights 
events...  Put all together, you can't miss me :-)

Here's another help, picture of me:
http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/temp/wixpix.html
Note that the page is meant for pictures o my Big Blak Dawg (tm), but 
there's one of me there.  Wixie shan't be with me at 12th night, as our 
training together isn't far enough along yet :-(

I invite anyone to come to me and chat :-)


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 13:43:19 -0600
Status: RO

At 01:13 PM 1/12/2002, you wrote:
>The Big Red 'H', started as a way for list members to recognize each other 
>at events we might attend. Generally it involves writing an 'H' on your 
>name tag if there is one or wearing a piece of cloth or paper with a red 
>'H' on it pinned to your costume. Since you are going to be one of the 
>more easily recognizable people there, are you volunteering to be a 
>rendezvous point? (She says grinning evily)

Ahhh, makes sense...  I don't particularly feel like wearing an H.  Reminds 
me too much of the preparation of the same name <grin>

If you don't mind a moving rendez-vous point, I don't mind :-)

See you there then!


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 21:04:00 +0100 (MET)
Status: RO


Hi Kayta and Elisabeth,

> Dear Kayta and everyone:
> 
> The Saying Hopfen und Malz -Gott erhalts means:
> 
>        Hops and Malt - May God keep and preserve them.

Yes, thanks for saying it! "erhalten" can mean both "to receive"
and "to preserve", but here the intended meaning is "preserve".

> It is an old saying used in Bavaria.  How old?  I am not sure.  But Hops and 
> Malt are the ingredient for brewing beer.

Actually, there is a the "deutsches Reinheitsgebot", "German 
purity law" which regulates that beer can only be made of four
ingredients, hops, barley, malt, and water. It was in effect
until a few years ago, meaning that anything made differently
(for example containing preservatives) could not be sold on the
German market as "beer". The European Union finally forced the
German legislators to cancel this law, because it supposedly
interfered with equal trading within the European Union.

> Beer is also referred to as "liquid bread" at times.

It's also made of grains, and it has quite a lot of calories
(from the alcohol).

> The type of Bierstein you are describing is a very traditional old style.  

Are you sure? To me, it sounds awfully tacky. From potters
I know around here, I thought I knew that blue glazes on
pottery only became known and popular from the end of the 19th
century. Well, at least for common people.

> Usually ones made for tourists were and are very colorful.  But most Germans 
> do drink their beer out of a stein, mostly plainer than you describe, but 
> similar.

I have lived in Germany all my life and often am together with
friends who drink beer. Almost never have I seen anyone drink
beer from such a stoneware pot. Beer is always served in glasses,
everywhere. I have only seen it served in stoneware pots
in historical breweries, for example in Kulmbach. Which is
Bavaria. It could be a Bavarian tradition (that I don't know),
but even in the beer gardens in Munich, capital of Bavaria,
beer is usually served in glasses. 

Besides -- if it was German, it would be "Bierstein", one word,
but I have never heard it. Such a thing -- a stoneware pot for
drinking beer, maybe with a lid -- is called "Humpen", which my
dictionary translates as "tankard". Most Germans, definitely,
do not drink their beer from Humpen, most of the time.

> That's one of the things that scares me about 
> the mold thing-she's an antique dealer, her house is full of antiques that 
> cannot be replaced in todays market at any price. All of the stuff in there 
> would have to be destroyed, as a good deal of it is wood.

... sorry, why would antiques of necessity have to be destroyed?
Just because they are wooden?

Couldn't keep quiet,
Barbara Maren
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 15:33:02 -0500
Status: RO

At 1/12/2002 01:43 PM, you wrote:
>At 04:11 AM 1/12/2002, you wrote:
>>Could someone kindly post the SCA disabilities list address again?
>
>The one I take part in is a Yahoo Group, called SCA Disabilities.
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Disabilities/

or
medievaldisableds@yahoogroups.com

Katheryne

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Bierstein/mold
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 16:39:43 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/1/02 2:07:20 PM, barbara@math.TU-Berlin.DE writes:
<< ... sorry, why would antiques of necessity have to be destroyed? Just 
because they are wooden? >>
Anything that has toxic mold on it would have to be destroyed as the spores 
are inside of it. Wood is the easiest for it to attack due to the grain 
however cloth, books, papers, rugs (there goes the Persian), drapes, fabrics 
of any and all types, ceramics, photographs, bisques, porcelain, plastics, 
basically anything that it can get into or onto would have to be destroyed as 
there's no way to kill it and it can kill you. It also destroys things on 
it's own so it's not even a case of try to keep it down and go on. The 
materials (wood, paper plastic, fabric) that are in the house would 
eventually desentegrate. Metals seem to be the only thing safe from it. They 
bring a Haz Mat team in and dismantle and remove anything that tests positive 
for the mold. That may be your whole house or only a part of it. If only a 
part, it can be fixed if not... There was a family in the next town over that 
the team came in, dismantled the house, removed 6 feet of dirt from where the 
house once stood and THEN sprayed chemicals in the hole. They took the house 
bits out in the desert and burned it and sprayed the ashes. We're not talking 
something that a little Lysol or bleach will take care of, if only it were 
so. I'm still in shock over this whole thing so forgive me if I over answered 
a bit.
Lady G
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Subject: [h-cost] On-line sources for reproduction parasols
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 15:19:48 -0800
Status: RO

Barrington Brolly
http://www.barringtonbrolly.com/
Modern and reproduction parasols and umbrellas.  Does custom work

Buckaroo Bobbins General Store
http://www.agoldmine.com/toc.html
Two styles of lace parasols (as well as "Old West" theme clothing,
patterns and sundries)

Decorator's Box
http://www.decoratorsbox.com/batlacpar.html
Battenberg lace parasols

Sara's Parasols
http://www.sarasparasols.com/
Synthetic parasols displayed, but  they will fulfil customer requests
for different fabrics and trims

Underbelly
http://www.underbelly.net/parasolpage.html
Seems to be exclusively custom work





--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:44:27 -0800
Status: RO



Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Kimberly Tribe wrote:
> 
>> And if anyone has done such a wide necked gown, can you tell me if a
>> drawstring at the neckline would actually work to keep the sleeves
>> *on* the shoulders? That is what is suggested, but never having tried
>> it myself, I wonder.
> 
> 
> I have done several wide necked gowns, and a drawstring is not
> necessary.  If you make the straps at the proper angle to the rest of
> the bodice, and if you make them snug enough, they will stay on unless
> you have really slopey shoulders.  The proper angle is something you
> have to decide for yourself, but something less than 90 degrees (when
> measured from the horizontal front neckline) is useful.  I don't know
> what Hunnisett's pattern looks like, but take a look at Janet Arnold's
> Patterns of Fashion (1560-1620), page 9, which has her conjectured
> pattern of the Phoenix gown.  You'll see that the straps angle in
> towards center front.  The patterns in Juan de Alcega's Pattern Book
> (from 1589) look the same (he was Arnold's source, in fact).

Ack! I needed to know this a year ago!
I have always wondered about that strap angle actually, because it has 
always seemed to me that
the opposite is true - the strap angle should be greater than 90 
degrees. I thought an angle
less than 90 would give you a wrinkle by the armpit when it bent back to 
90 degrees. I guess I
was wrong. My Tudor gown has a wrinkle in that spot anyway. I need to 
seriously rework the
whole armsceye/shoulder area on that gown. Oh well...
(Oh and was it here people were talking about yardage - I made my Tudor 
gown out of 4.5m
of fabric (not including linings etc) Not quite sure how I managed that, 
especially since it has a 50cm
train. However it is an open-fronted skirt, wchich is gored to fit 
everywhere except the back pleats.
And the sleeves are a bit scantier than I would have liked.)
Claire

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Linen blend at Joann's
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 16:14:49 -0800
Status: RO

I just got back from Joann's.  Decent Linen/cotton blend black, white, and good
colors for $4.99 a yard.  The store nearest me had quite a bit in stock.

Unfortunately, I couldn't indulge--today.  Hopefully there will still be some
when I can get back! :)

Just passing the word.

MaggiRos


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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clogs
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 19:30:18 -0500
Status: RO

At 01:38 PM 01/10/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>English clogs tend to look a little different.  Picture a wooden sole
>with a regular lace-up shoe upper nailed to the sole.  Here, I finally
>found a website with photos.  
>
>http://subscriber.scoot.co.uk/walkley_clogs/
>http://subscriber.scoot.co.uk/walkley_clogs/page2.htm
>
>Walkey's are one of the largest clog manufacturers left.  
>
>Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4

Cool, thanks!
I see they've got slip-ons at the bottom of their catalog page.

Anyone know how long they've had that form (the lace-up type)?  Is that a
Victorian form, or does it date earlier?

-- Mara

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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 16:40:13 -0800
Status: RO

What's going on here is, I continually try to investigate every
interesting link I see (on the web or in a print ad) related in some
way to historic clothing.  I browse the site. I stick the link at the
end of my bookmarks file--not in one of the categories I so carefully
set up--and forget about it. Weeks or months later, I have dozens of
uncategorized links and I don't remember what the sites are like.
When it gets too unmanageable, I have to go through all the links and
browse the sites again so I can file them properly.

That's what I'm doing now.  I figured other people might as well
benefit.  These are all sites I've browsed since--I don't really want
to contemplate how long it's been since I cleaned up my links. A
while.  I haven't bought anything from most of these sites,  but they
do, even at second glace, look worth filing for future reference.

Fran

BridalFabric.com
http://www.bridalfabric.com
Bridal fabrics, synthetic and natural, at discount prices.  Also
tiaras

Decorator Fabrics
http://www.decofab.com/decofab2.htm
Discount drapery and upholstery fabrics

Designer Discount Fabrics
http://www.desigfab.com
Does not really have their inventory on-line; you need to ask for
swatches. Lovely picture of their "silk room" but no scans of
individual silks

Fabric Collections
http://www.fabriccollections.com
This site doesn't seem to be all the way up yet.  They are offering a
swatch service

The Fabric Directory
http://www.interiormall.com/cat/FabricsOnline.html
Drapery and upholstery fabrics

Fishman's Fabrics
http://www.fishmansfabrics.com/
Classy apparel and decorating fabrics.  They have pictures of their
store, but if you want to see pictures of individual fabrics click on
"Color Cards"

HouseFabric.com
http://www.housefabric.com/
Discount drapery and upholstery fabrics

Trim Fabric
http://www.TrimFabric.com/
Discount fabric store (including additional discounts for bolts).
Includes a reasonable selection of solid-colored natural fibers

VelvetFabric.com
http://store.yahoo.com/velvet-fabric/
Not just velvets, but brocades, damasks, satins, and linens.  They
don't seem to have all the inventory up yet

White Fox Trading Company
http://www.whitefoxtrading.com
Printed fabrics of the 18th and early 19th century, plus some notions
and patterns

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Clogs
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 19:37:24 -0500
Status: RO

At 03:28 PM 01/10/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Ick. (I really have a personal thing about wooden shoes :) )

LOL!  Sorry to hear that.  I've got wooden-soled clogs and I think I like
them for the noise they make ;)  That, plus they really keep my feet dry if
it's raining at the Wool and Sheep festival.

>That being said, I'm not sure holdover is the right word, since wooden soled 
>shoes were worn even in this country until the early 20th century (and for 
>clog dancers, even more recently), but I'd say that these were real live 
>honest to goodness clogs.
>
>Marc

Any wild-a** guesses as to date and likely origin?

-- Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 19:10:16 -0600
Status: RO

Claire Clarke wrote:
> 
> Ack! I needed to know this a year ago!

Um..sorry...

> I have always wondered about that strap angle actually, because it has
> always seemed to me that
> the opposite is true - the strap angle should be greater than 90
> degrees. I thought an angle
> less than 90 would give you a wrinkle by the armpit when it bent back to
> 90 degrees.

Well, part of it is that, at least on Elizabethan, the horizontal front
of the neckline is not quite horizontal, but instead is an arch.  So
you're not getting 90 degrees anyway.

Perhaps this is obvious, but just in case:  it may also transpire, in
fitting, that because of the slope of the shoulder and the angle of the
strap, the strap might have to curve to meet the back of the bodice at
the proper location.

Just flipping through my Holbein book, it looks like some of the Tudor
necklines were arched as well, and many of them look to have a
less-than-90-degree angle at the strap.  Of course, there's the whole
pin-on-placket issue, and I suppose you can make the top of it any shape
you like.  In addition, there's the possible-v-back issue (see Holbein's
sketch of the Unknown Lady from 1535, front and back), which would make
an acute angle necessary and help tremendously in keeping the straps up,
especially considering the weight of Tudor sleeves.

> I need to 
> seriously rework the
> whole armsceye/shoulder area on that gown.

If you're anywhere near the Milwaukee area, I would be happy to assist
in any way I can with the fitting.  I have Garb Workdays twice a month
in the costume shop where I work.

Good luck!
Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: [h-cost] Web sites with pashmina shawls
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 18:59:23 -0800
Status: RO

Pashmina is a synonym for cashmere; also applied to a cashmere/silk
blend.

Cottage Asia
http://www.cottageASIA.com/
Embroidered and solid pashmina shawls; custom embroidery available

Emerald Tara
http://emeraldtara.com/shawl.html
Pashmina shawls and scarves; solid, ombre, beaded, beaded fringe,
embroidered

Kellsons Pashmina
http://www.kellsons.com/kashmirjamawars.htm
Plain pashmina shawls; embroidered wools; jamawars.  Not all photos
are up yet

Pashmina
http://www.umamawear.com/pashima.html
Embroidered jamawar shawls in two colors; wool wraps

Pashmina Golden
http://www.pashminagolden.com/
Pure pashmina and blends with silk or wool; shawls are solid, ombre,
jamawar, embroidered; also saris

ShalinCraft
http://www.shalincraft-india.com/
Pashmina, silk pashmina, and wool shawls and stoles.  Jamawar,
paisley, embroidered, tie & dye, solid.  Also saris.  Excellent
service

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance



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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 13:32:42 -0800
Status: RO

That's one of the things that scares me about 
>the mold thing-she's an antique dealer, her house is full of antiques that 
>cannot be replaced in todays market at any price. All of the stuff in there 
>would have to be destroyed, as a good deal of it is wood. 

Please explain?  How does the fact that my stein was made using a mold mean
anything would have to be destroyed?

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bierstein??
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 14:22:42 -0800
Status: RO

>> Usually ones made for tourists were and are very colorful.  But most
Germans 
>> do drink their beer out of a stein, mostly plainer than you describe, but 
>> similar.

I see badly made coloured ones, and they make even the good coloured ones
look touristy.  The good coloured ones are too expensive to risk using, and
are usually too big anyway.  Surviving 1500's-1600's examples I have seen
sometimes have hinged lids, scratched or raised designs, or that same grey
clay body.  I've also seen salt-glazed examples in a dull iron-oxide-yellow.

>I have only seen it served in stoneware pots
>in historical breweries, for example in Kulmbach.

I see these in thrift stores in California, plain but with the brewer's
logo on them in blue.

>Besides -- if it was German, it would be "Bierstein", one word,
>but I have never heard it. Such a thing -- a stoneware pot for
>drinking beer, maybe with a lid -- is called "Humpen", which my
>dictionary translates as "tankard". Most Germans, definitely,
>do not drink their beer from Humpen, most of the time.

The popular American image of a German includes one of these Humpen, so my
Ren. Faire character has one.  And if my German were better, I might have
said Bierstein - hey, I remembered to capitalize the nouns, and got 'i' and
'e' in the right places.

Kayta
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming
  thoughts...
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 19:40:10 -0800
Status: RO

>If people can't deal with the fact you have to adjust your clothes for a
>disability, that's their tough luck!

My guess is that your level of independence, at your level of disability,
isn't 'period' either, speaking of other people's tough luck.  My
chair-bound housemate would have died from 1500's medical science.  And if,
by some series of miracles, he had lived, he certainly wouldn't have had
his cool chair, his van, etc.  Makes me glad I live in this century and
only visit the other ones.   

As for shoes, I'd recommend plain black, or some other dark colour which
will sort of disappear under your skirt hem.  Try to find a period-looking
toe shape, if this is possible.  I'm a real stickler about authenticity,
but I don't spend much time in my authentic-looking shoes, preferring more
padding than they had underfoot.  So either I tough it out in my
authentic-looking ones, or I opt for comfort and padding (modern gel
insoles - YES!).

I'd like to say a thing in defense of us authenticity sticklers.  It is our
passion to do things as accurately as we can, for our own sake, and to pass
on our knowledge.  The wise among us do this by teaching, by answering
questions, and by helping those who have asked for it.  The rude ones
confront people with their little inaccuracies, which is not a period thing
to do in the first place, and doing it doesn't make anything better anyway.
 But on this list we're here to help, to answer your questions, to point
out resources, and to learn things too.

Kayta
   //// \\\
  ////-@@\\\
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/----\   /---\))

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From: LadyGryphon@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bier Stein Deutsch, bitte?
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 23:19:50 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 12/1/02 9:35:04 PM, kayta@frys.com writes:
<< Please explain?  How does the fact that my stein was made using a mold mean
anything would have to be destroyed? >>
Sorry Katya, I've (ewww) got mold on the brain right now. My mother's house 
has toxic mold, we have people coming out next week to let us know how much 
of it must be destroyed. NOT your mug, her house.
Lady G
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Subject: [h-cost] Photos of two original "Titanic" costumes now up on my site!
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 23:10:58 -0500
Status: RO

The collectors who bought the original "jump" dress and Rose's pink coat
(worn during the sinking scenes) contacted me a couple of weeks ago, and we
have been chatting back and forth ever since. They graciously agreed to
share some photographs of the outfits with me and have allowed me to place
them on my site for others to drool over. I've also written up all of the
excruciating details of the "jump" dress's construction (including what it
is made out of it, how it is lined and fastened, etc.). I got all of this
info from e-mails and a two-hour phone conversation today. Mysteries
revealed at last! Go to http://www.sensibility.com/titanic/realphotos.htm to
enjoy!

The collectors who bought these costumes do have plans to get them
professionally photographed on display mannequins and publish those pictures
in a full-color booklet (HALLELUJAH!). Until then, I am able to share eight
photographs they took themselves.

Have fun!

Jennie Chancey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming thoughts...
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 21:39:00 +0000
Status: RO


Kayta writes:
> My guess is that your level of independence, at your level of 
> disability, isn't 'period' either, speaking of other people's tough
luck.  My
> chair-bound housemate would have died from 1500's medical science.  

In all likelihood, i would have also, within the first two years of
diagnosis. Been very, very lucky.

> And if, by some series of miracles, he had lived, he certainly wouldn't
have 
> had his cool chair, his van, etc.  Makes me glad I live in this century

> and only visit the other ones.   

Ditto! For me, it's good drugs, physical therapy, and lots of
understanding and physical and emotional support. :-)
> 
> As for shoes, I'd recommend plain black, or some other dark colour 
> which will sort of disappear under your skirt hem.  Try to find a 
> period-looking toe shape, if this is possible.  I'm a real stickler
about 
> authenticity, but I don't spend much time in my authentic-looking
shoes, 
> preferring more padding than they had underfoot.  So either I tough it
out in my
> authentic-looking ones, or I opt for comfort and padding (modern gel
> insoles - YES!).

Mine are black New Balance walking shoes. Before when I could wear the
Chinese-type slippers I always put two pairs of insoles in each shoe.
Lifesavers.


> I'd like to say a thing in defense of us authenticity sticklers.  It is
our
> passion to do things as accurately as we can, for our own sake, and 
> to pass on our knowledge.  The wise among us do this by teaching, by 
> answering questions, and by helping those who have asked for it.  The
rude 
> ones confront people with their little inaccuracies, which is not a 
> period thing to do in the first place, and doing it doesn't make
anything better 
> anyway.  But on this list we're here to help, to answer your questions,
to 
> point out resources, and to learn things too.

I so agree. Been on this list for almost two years now and have bumped
into many knowledgable and helpful people. I may not costume for myself
anymore, but I have learned a lot!


				Arlys
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bierstein??
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 01:03:45 EST
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Dear Barbara:
I totally agree.  Germans do not usually refer to a Bierstein as such.  In 
Bavaria, where I grew up, yes people in their homes quite often used a Humpen 
to drink their Bier out off.  My father and mother had a set, His was large 
Hers was small, the same design.  My brother has several porcelain ones with 
pewter lids.  Yes, in restaurants they usually serve the Bier in glasses.  
Glasses are much cheaper than Humpen.  But in old "Dorfkneipen" (Village 
restaurants, for the lack of a better translation) and in breweries they 
generally use Humpen or Bierkruege (Another word for it, much more modern 
however) In the restaurants the Bierkruege are reserved for the regulars!
Hope this clarifies.
Elisabeth 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Dear Barbara:
<BR>I totally agree. &nbsp;Germans do not usually refer to a Bierstein as such. &nbsp;In Bavaria, where I grew up, yes people in their homes quite often used a Humpen to drink their Bier out off. &nbsp;My father and mother had a set, His was large Hers was small, the same design. &nbsp;My brother has several porcelain ones with pewter lids. &nbsp;Yes, in restaurants they usually serve the Bier in glasses. &nbsp;Glasses are much cheaper than Humpen. &nbsp;But in old "Dorfkneipen" (Village restaurants, for the lack of a better translation) and in breweries they generally use Humpen or Bierkruege (Another word for it, much more modern however) In the restaurants the Bierkruege are reserved for the regulars!
<BR>Hope this clarifies.
<BR>Elisabeth </FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 01:37:35 -0600
Status: RO

I had a pair when I was a kid, wore those things till my heels were
hanging out the back.  My mother finally threw them away, and I
had a hissy fit. *L*

Katie

Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:

> 
> LOL!  Sorry to hear that.  I've got wooden-soled clogs and I think I like
> them for the noise they make ;)  That, plus they really keep my feet dry if
> it's raining at the Wool and Sheep festival.
> 
> 


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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 19:58:24 -0800
Status: RO

I see the misunderstanding - I'm American, not English, and I think my
spelling confused you.  My tankard isn't moldy, as in it has no mold
growing in it.  

My tankard was created using a 4+piece mold, into which slip (pourable clay
mud) was poured and allowed to dry.  I can see the little lines where the
pieces of the mold came together imperfectly.

>In a message dated 12/1/02 2:07:20 PM, barbara@math.TU-Berlin.DE writes:
><< ... sorry, why would antiques of necessity have to be destroyed? Just 
>because they are wooden? >>
>Anything that has toxic mold on it would have to be destroyed as the spores 
>are inside of it. Wood is the easiest for it to attack due to the grain 
>however cloth, books, papers, rugs (there goes the Persian), drapes, fabrics 
>of any and all types, ceramics, photographs, bisques, porcelain, plastics, 
>basically anything that it can get into or onto would have to be destroyed as 
>there's no way to kill it and it can kill you. It also destroys things on 
>it's own so it's not even a case of try to keep it down and go on. The 
>materials (wood, paper plastic, fabric) that are in the house would 
>eventually desentegrate. Metals seem to be the only thing safe from it. They 
>bring a Haz Mat team in and dismantle and remove anything that tests positive 
>for the mold. That may be your whole house or only a part of it. If only a 
>part, it can be fixed if not... There was a family in the next town over that 
>the team came in, dismantled the house, removed 6 feet of dirt from where the 
>house once stood and THEN sprayed chemicals in the hole. They took the house 
>bits out in the desert and burned it and sprayed the ashes. We're not talking 
>something that a little Lysol or bleach will take care of, if only it were 
>so. I'm still in shock over this whole thing so forgive me if I over answered 
>a bit.
>Lady G
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Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clogs
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 09:57:29 -0000
Status: RO

>Anyone know how long they've had that form (the lace-up type)?  Is that a
Victorian form, or does it date earlier?

There is a paphlet on English clogs by I think Swann I have a copy somewhere

Walkleys are pretty good but I recently found a page with a list of
traditional cloggers in the UK some of which make their own soles (rather
than machine them ) It is a work I think so I'll try & post it on Monday

They are more likely to do historical clog types.

I wear walkleysand they are pretty good

Personally I love clogs

Mel



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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:14:06 -0000
Status: RO

Try

http://uk.geocities.com/cobblersawl/index.htm

Mel

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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:17:49 -0000
Status: RO

http://www.morrisdancing.org/clogs.html

More clogmakers

Mel

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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 22:07:04 +0000
Status: RO

Drinking tea without milk is, I believe, some strange colonial custom.  

JEan


Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com> wrote
>>PGTips made using teabags
>and the same spoon for stirring the tea and fishing out the teabag
>as you used to get the granulated sugar from the bag
>
>UGH
>
>You''l be telling me next you don't warm the mug first & put milk in your
>tea
>
>Lady Power (aka Mel)
>
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 22:04:56 +0000
Status: RO

Drat!  If I hadn't revealed my ignorance, I could have made out like I
was more couth than Teddy.  But, ah, too late!

Jean


Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
>
>> Well does it mean anything to you?  I honestly don't know what a tea
>> sandwich is - as opposed to any other sort of sandwich, I mean.
>
>I assumed it was the "genteel" sort of sandwiches you'd have with 
>tea from loose-leaf tea in a teapot and china cups with matching 
>saucers, cube-sugar in a bowl with silver tongs to pick it out etc,  
>rather than the huge chunky doorsteps of bread and filling wot 
>people like me has with big mugs of PGTips made using teabags 
>and the same spoon for stirring the tea and fishing out the teabag 
>as you used to get the granulated sugar from the bag
>
>Teddy
>(Uncouth?  Me?  Abso-bloody-lutely!)
>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of two original "Titanic" costumes now up on my site!
References: <NBBBJPGEPBMHMOJGKPFFOEEKCEAA.CatDevereaux@AlleyCatScratch.com> <005601c19be8$4ed6c320$5e5efea9@jchancey>
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 16:32:52 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Jennie
Thanks for those pics. The sinking coat or dress ? Is that embroidery on 
the collar and cuffs made with chain stitches?
Just curious.

Bjarne 

Jennie Chancey wrote:

>The collectors who bought the original "jump" dress and Rose's pink coat
>(worn during the sinking scenes) contacted me a couple of weeks ago, and we
>have been chatting back and forth ever since. They graciously agreed to
>share some photographs of the outfits with me and have allowed me to place
>them on my site for others to drool over. I've also written up all of the
>excruciating details of the "jump" dress's construction (including what it
>is made out of it, how it is lined and fastened, etc.). I got all of this
>info from e-mails and a two-hour phone conversation today. Mysteries
>revealed at last! Go to http://www.sensibility.com/titanic/realphotos.htm to
>enjoy!
>
>The collectors who bought these costumes do have plans to get them
>professionally photographed on display mannequins and publish those pictures
>in a full-color booklet (HALLELUJAH!). Until then, I am able to share eight
>photographs they took themselves.
>
>Have fun!
>
>Jennie Chancey
>
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
>http://www.sensibility.com
>winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming
  thoughts...
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:03:58 -0600
Status: RO

At 09:40 PM 1/12/2002, you wrote:
> >If people can't deal with the fact you have to adjust your clothes for a
> >disability, that's their tough luck!
>
>My guess is that your level of independence, at your level of disability,
>isn't 'period' either, speaking of other people's tough luck.

BING!  Right on the nail's head :-)  50 years ago, the average length of 
life after a spinal cord injury was about 5 years...  I'd be dead...

>  My chair-bound housemate

Dunno about your housemate, but "chair-bound" is really not a term I 
like.  I'm not tied to my chair.  If I was, I'd hope it would be because of 
a kinky thingy :-) The word promotes the image of "being stuck".  Where as, 
in fact, the chair is really a liberator.  *Without* the chair, I'd be 
stuck.  Just a little bit of workding that changes the general way someone 
views folks with disabilities... :-)  YMMV

>I'd like to say a thing in defense of us authenticity sticklers.

I have nothing against the authenticity sticklers.  It's the period nazis I 
have a problem with :-)  Big difference :-)

>The wise among us do this by teaching, by answering
>questions, and by helping those who have asked for it.

Best way to do it.  But...  I'm in trouble...  I "asked for it"!!!  <evil grin>

>But on this list we're here to help, to answer your questions, to point
>out resources, and to learn things too.

I'd have been surprised to find rudeness on this list.  That is, accross 
the board.  There's always one or two elements of every list yanno?  :-)


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Clogs
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:06:10 -0600
Status: RO

At 06:37 PM 1/12/2002, you wrote:
>At 03:28 PM 01/10/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> >Ick. (I really have a personal thing about wooden shoes :) )
>
>LOL!  Sorry to hear that.  I've got wooden-soled clogs and I think I like
>them for the noise they make

I used to wear clogs in the kitchens.  A life saver when you have to stand 
in nearly the same spot for up to 15, 16 hours in a day.


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:06:52 -0600
Status: RO

I'm not too entirely sure of the appropriateness of these fabric, but I've 
been toying with the idea of buying from them for a while now.
http://www.pickhemp.com/

Their hemp/silk mixes are particularly attractive I thought.

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 12:12:50 -0500
Status: RO

Do you have any idea of what their prices are, or how they compare to what
Dharma carries?
Rowena ni Dhonnchaidh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gorgeous Muiredach"
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Web sites that sell fabrics suitable for costuming


> I'm not too entirely sure of the appropriateness of these fabric, but I've
> been toying with the idea of buying from them for a while now.
> http://www.pickhemp.com/
>
> Their hemp/silk mixes are particularly attractive I thought.
>
> Gorgeous Muiredach
> Rokkehealden Shire   > Middle Kingdom
> aka   > Nicolas Steenhout


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Subject: [h-cost] Photos of two original "Titanic" costumes now up on my site!
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:23:00 -0600
Status: RO

Jennie,

is there a pattern available for the coat, or is it a basic "princess" as it
appears in the watercolor.

Thanks,

Genie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Web sites that sell fabrics suitable for costuming
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:28:14 -0600
Status: RO

At 11:12 AM 1/13/2002, you wrote:
>Do you have any idea of what their prices are, or how they compare to what
>Dharma carries?

Don't know Dharma,  but here's their price list for 2001.

                                         2001 PRICE LIST


Fabric Description & WeightPrice > 100 yds. Price < 100 yds.
100% hemp canvas - 11oz, 12oz$8.50$9.00
100% hemp canvas - 14oz$9.00$9.50
100% hemp basketweave -12.5oz$11.00$11.50
100% hemp herringbone -12.5 oz, 15 oz$11.00$11.50
100% hemp summer cloth -8oz$6.25$6.75
100% hemp denim twill -12.5oz$9.25$9.75
100% hemp yarn-dyed denim twill - 13 oz$9.75$10.25
100% hemp linen - 5.8oz$6.75$7.25
100% hemp muslin - 59” width - 5oz$6.75$7.25
60% hemp / 40% silk blend - 2.6oz, 3.7oz$7.25-7.75$7.75-8.25
65% hemp / 35% silk charmeuse - 5.2oz, 58”$9.25$9.75
85% hemp / 15% silk jacquard - 4.7oz, 58”$7.95$8.45
55% hemp / 45 cotton diamond patn - 9oz, 59” $5.75$6.25
55% hemp / 45% cotton denim - 10oz$5.25$5.75
55% hemp / 45% cotton corduroy - 10.5oz, 44”$4.95$5.45
55% hemp / 45% cotton muslin - 4.9, 5.7, 7.2oz$4.25$4.75
55% hemp / 45% tencel blend  3.5oz, 59”$6.25$6.75
55% hemp / 45% rayon  calico - 4oz , 58”$5.75$6.25
55% hemp / 45% rayon blend  5 oz, 58”$6.25$6.75
100% hemp webbing, 1”,1¼”,1½”, 2” (straps)$1.40-2.15$1.65-2.40
55% hemp / 45% cot. Fleece - 10.5oz, 27” loop$5.75$6.25
55% hemp / 45% cotton jersey - 8oz, 27” loop$3.65$4.15
55% hemp / 45% cotton terry towel, 11oz, 60” $7.95$8.45
55% hemp/45% cotton meshcloth  (20-24”loop)$3.00$3.50
55% hemp / 45% cotton ribbing (13”)$2.10$2.60
55% hemp / 45% cotton socks - S/M/L$2.50/pair
         All fabrics are in stock in San Francisco ready to ship.  A 10 
yard minimum quantity is required per fabric. Please inquire for discounts 
on large quantities over 300 yards.

         All the fabrics are quite wide: except for the hemp/cotton 
corduroy which is 44” wide, all others range from 56" to 60" as indicated 
on the sample swatches. All prices are FOB San Francisco (customer pays 
freight).  There is a $6.00 cutting and handling fee on each order.

         Thank you for your interest and please feel free to contact us if 
you have any questions.

> > I'm not too entirely sure of the appropriateness of these fabric, but I've
> > been toying with the idea of buying from them for a while now.
> > http://www.pickhemp.com/
> >
> > Their hemp/silk mixes are particularly attractive I thought.

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 14:00:05 -0500
Status: RO

Fancy meeting you here - straying from the Cooks List?
margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> Gorgeous Muiredach
> Rokkehealden Shire
> Middle Kingdom
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:mold
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 15:49:22 -0500
Status: RO


Lady G:

I think everyone is confused because you started writing about mold as if we
all knew what you were talking about. Perhaps you wrote about the mold
problem in a private post? Why does your mother think she has toxic mold in
her house?

Gail Finke


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From: "Massaria dC" <massaria@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]OT mold
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 22:02:22 +0000
Status: RO

delurking here:

Speaking of Toxic mold we saw a documentary last night about it!
Well it was a form of toxic mold, I have no idea if it is the same
one. This one was called "Ergots" (sp?) and is the thing that gets
into wheat, then bread and causes people to have convulsions and
skin crawls and stuff (it is the same thing that LSD is extracted from) It 
is very nasty stuff. There was a theory that it was responsible for the 
witch trails in Salem, as there was a town in
France in the 1920's which was infected with it and all the people
went nuts in a similar fashion to that recorded in Salem.

Sorry Lady G hope your antiques don't have to be destroyed :-(

Massaria

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]OT mold
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 17:25:58 EST
Status: RO

Massaria,
Yes, it's ergot but that gets (mostly) on rye rather than wheat, both the 
grain and bread and it's not killed by heat/light. The mold in this case 
causes-hallucinations, respiratory failure, memory loss, skin eruptions, 
convulsions and other nasties including death. There's nothing currently on 
the market that will kill it or even eradicate it for any length of time. 
Thus the only thing TO do is either remove all contaminated items and destroy 
them or if the infestation is too far involved for it to be "fixable"-destroy 
the entire house and contents. That's what we fear the most. Destruction of 
all our tangible memories and other things that cannot be replaced at any 
cost. I mean how can money replace the chair that my umpteen great 
grandfather hand made (and rubbed a jillion coats of beeswax into) all those 
years ago, photographs of my great grandparents on their wedding day, the 
quilt my grandmother made for me while my mother was preggers with me and 
dozens of other like items. We're all in shock.
Thank you for you concern, it is greatly appreciated.
Lady G
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From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Clogs
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 17:18:04 -0600
Status: RO


>>>Ick. (I really have a personal thing about wooden shoes :) )
>>LOL!  Sorry to hear that.  I've got wooden-soled clogs and I think I
>like them for the noise they make

I seam to have missed the original response, so if there was more to it than 
this, please let me know.

As for people liking them or not, it's a personal thing.  There's nothing 
wrong with them, or people liking them.  However, after spending some 
serious time around a number of communes in the 60s, there's just something 
about them that reminds me of the less 'fun' aspects of chosing to live a 
'primitive' lifestyle with insufficient research.  Personally they make my 
feet hurt (and their more form fitted descendents, the birkenstocks are even 
worse (for me).

OTOH, I know that other people -do- like them, and they helped keep 
bazillions of people's feet dry and safe before the Wellington.  I even 
brought home a set of Walkeley's clogs for my wife when I was in that part 
of Lancashire researching an article on a different clog museum a couple of 
years ago (A by appointment or invitation only place in Bacup that it seems 
that no one else has ever heard of).

I don't recall at this point where I heard the story, but there was a thing 
about someone who was growing up in the area, and growing up hearing the 
sounds of all the hundreds of factory girls clogs on the cobblestones as 
they headed up to work in the morning.

Marc

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From: "Jennie Chancey" <jchancey@ala.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <00d601c19c56$f3cb6c00$9c7ae541@hppav>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern for Rose's Coat (was Photos of two original "Titanic" costumes now up on my site!)
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 18:34:11 -0500
Status: RO

There is no pattern that I am aware of for the pink coat, but it is
princess-seamed, as shown in the Peterman illustration. Really a very simple
coat!

Cheers,
Jennie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of two original "Titanic" costumes now up on my site!
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 19:09:54 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote: "Thanks for those pics. The sinking coat or dress ? Is that
embroidery on the collar and cuffs made with chain stitches? Just curious."

Unfortunately, the owner was not familiar enough with stitching types to
tell me how the embroidery was done. All she knew was that it was of very
narrow silk floss. I may have further opportunities in the future to study
the outfits, and, if that happens, I will let you know!

Cheers,
Jennie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsets/stays (was Re: wheelchair historicals)
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:12:53 -0800
Status: RO

From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
> I got a copy of "Support and Seduction: A History of Corsets and Bras" by
> Beatrice Fontanel.  Here's my review: Don't bother.  It's got a lot of

Thanks for the review, Mara!

Speaking of which, has anyone read Valerie Steele's new book "The Corset:  A
Cultural History"?

- Kendra


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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:37:44 EST
Status: RO

Will all and sundry please keep happy thoughts coming our way? My mother's 
just found out that her house has black mold in it and, while she knows her 
options, she's not quite decided what she's going to do about it. Selling the 
house and moving is pretty high on her list of options. This due to the past 
years expenses incurred (reattaching the roof, water damage to most of the 
ceilings, new septic pump amongst others) and her getting a bit tired of it 
being Mr. Blanding's Dream House. The happy thoughts are that it's just plain 
mold and can be gotten rid of rather than TOXIC mold that will cause the house
 to be "gotten rid of" or "incinerated under controlled conditions". That 
last thought's a scary one. It's a lovely house and holds many happy 
memories. Selfish me-I was also looking forward to having many years of future
 happy memories in it as it's my inheritance from my mother.
Wish us nothing but good luck and keep your fingers toes and eyes crossed for 
us.
Many thanks,
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming thoughts...
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 04:55:36 -0500
Status: RO

Kayta wrote:
> 
> If the fasteners don't show, who's to know if they're period or not?
> (Someone in a Victorian costume workshop asked the instructor what if
> someone noticed his trousers fly zipped instead of buttoning, and the
> instructor said "If they're that close, they're not interested in
> authenticity".) 

Oh, I beg to differ!  If I'm that close, I'd hate to be disappointed by
finding inauthentic fastenings.  It'd just totally ruin the mood ;)

K.

-- 
Lady Katherine Rowberd (mka Kirrily "Skud" Robert)
katherine@infotrope.net  http://infotrope.net/sca/
Caldrithig, Skraeling Althing, Ealdormere
"The rose is red, the leaves are grene, God save Elizabeth our Queene"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's Elizabethan
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 13:12:53 -0800
Status: RO

on 1/10/02 2:19 PM, Rebecca Schmitt at lotsofteapots@charter.net wrote:

>> Here are some pics of my husband in his middle class Elizabethan clothes.
>> http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/dcp_0039a.jpg
>> http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/p0001257.jpg
>> http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/dcp_0079.jpg
>> http://www.gideonfamily.org/images/album/p0000887.jpg
>> Andrea

Yes, he looks a fine up-standing fellow... but what can you tell me about
the half-timbered cottage in the background of 1257, please!!!  Are the
walls and roof fabric, or ???  Is it a merchant booth or a really decadent
tent on a trailer frame, or ???

thanks,
Chimene/Patsy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1510 Mens Florentine
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 13:12:53 -0800
Status: RO

on 1/9/02 4:42 PM, Sheila at turrel@yahoo.com wrote:

> Does anyone have a reference of what the bottom-half
> of this outfit might have looked like?
> 
> http://www.getty.edu/art/collections/objects/oz792.html
> 
> Sheila
Since it appears no one else has responded...

A quick look through Boucher and Davenport (even Yarwood & Norris--they go
fast, 8-) turns up only the two young men at the front left of figure 1310
(p.493 in my one-volume ed.)

They are the right period and nationality.  I'm assuming that the
overgarment they have open at the neck and turned back to form a collar is
the same as what your young man has buttoned closed at the top.  If so, you
get a pretty clear picture of what they're wearing underneath.  They also
seem to be wearing the same style of hat.

The closest I could get otherwise, in these sources, are the young men in
fig 410 in Boucher (p.214), but they're 35 years ealier and the cap is
definitely not the same.

Boucher 1310 certainly fits my preconception of a likely bottom half.

Try tapestry too.

Hope this helps,
Chimene/Patsy


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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 03:49:25 -0500
Status: RO

Hello Everyone,

Some VERY exciting things are about to happen in the next couple of weeks.
So I am going to jump right into it and let you know....  My BIG BREAK is
about to happen!!!!! (so sorry to those who receive this several times)

A reporter, Francine Parnes, from the Associated Press interviewed me last
week about historic fashions for an article. The AP article is going out to
the news media
worldwide on Jan. 21.  The article will be on their website at first and to
all their affiliates websites.  I thought I would give you a little info on
how many news media will receive
the article through the AP:

"The AP is the backbone of the world's information system. In the United
States alone, AP serves 5,000 radio and television stations and 1,700
newspapers. Add to that the 8,500 newspaper, radio and television
subscribers in 121 countries overseas, and you'll have some idea of AP's
reach."  from the AP website

The reporter sent the final draft to the editor Tuesday night.  The editor
is
the one who decides what the title of the article will be.  The reporter
told me she will not know what the title will be until it is on the AP
website.  It will immediately go out to the AP subscribing websites on the
21st.  The newspapers, TV, and radio will decide when to run the story from
there... like our newspaper runs fashion stories on Thursdays, so I really
don't expect to see it until then.

They will have in the article me referred to as: Penny E. Dunlap Ladnier,
owner of www.costumegallery.com .  This means a LOT of people will be going
to my website.  YEA!!!  The interview was very in-depth.  The article is
about World War 2 ladies fashions.  I also gave them some quotes from Jennie
Chancey, because she has come out with a new pattern of a 1942 swing dress.
So I hope her quotes are in the article too.   If you want to check and see
if your local newspaper is a subscriber to the AP, go to http://wire.ap.org/
.

Now I am asking you all a BIG favor.  Please write your local newspaper and
ask the
fashion editor to run the article.  Just tell them that the article will be
on the AP on Jan. 21 and it is about World War 2 ladies' fashions and is
written by the reporter Francine Parnes.  If they run the article in your
paper, please save for me the entire page from the newspaper.  I want to see
how many newspapers run the article and make a scrapbook.  If you see or
hear anything about it on TV or on the radio, please let me know about that
too.

Those who know me, know my favorite quote... "I am scared one morning, that
I will wake up, turn on the TV... and Good Morning America or the Today Show
will be talking about something on my website.  Then I scream..... I am not
have my website prepared."  I have time to prepare.  Susan, my asst., and I
are getting the site prepared.   We have some new things that we have been
working on for months, that will be showing up on the site.  Jennie and
Marna Jean are helping get three whole new photograph areas up and running.
We are working hard to make sure everything works on the site.

Thank you to each of you who have road this crazy roller for so many years.
If it weren't for  all of you, I would have never had the inspiration to
have come this far.  It has been fun, exciting, and sometimes scary.  But I
thank God that he/she gave me supportive friends and family like you. Thank
you from the bottom of my heart.

So cross your fingers and lets see where we go from here...

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 13:43:07 -0800
Status: RO

At 08:34 AM 1/8/02 +0000, Madevi Dailly wrote:

> > Unsurprisingly, most people call 1805-1815 in France "Napoleonic". The
> > French call it "Deuxieme Empire" or "Second Empire" (same
> > spelling in French
> > & English) or "Republique".

I was in Paris last November and managed to visit most of the vintage clothing
dealers in the Flea Market. I was looking for late 18th c.  and early 19th c.
garments. Every dealer I spoke to referred to the clothing styles of 1790 - 
1815 as
Directoire. They were speaking of French clothing. One dealer had two English
pieces and referred to them as Regency.

Sally Norton

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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Button Hook?
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 21:24:10 -0500
Status: RO

	

Hi!  I'm usually just a lurker, but I came across this tool in a huge
bag of costume jewelry that I obtained from a flea market.  My first
thought was of a button hook for Victorian high button shoes, I did a
search on Ebay, in which I found a few button hooks but were a lot more
detailed and most made of silver.  So can anyone confirm that this is
indeed a button hook? I attached 2 pictures of it, it is severely rusted
but has a beautiful design on the handle if anyone knows how I may
remove the rust with out damaging the pattern, please let me know.
Thanks for your help!

Jamie Z.


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Subject: [h-cost] Hemp (WAS: Web sites that sell fabrics suitable for costuming)
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 18:23:49 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:28 AM -0600 1/13/02, Gorgeous Muiredach wrote:
>Fabric Description & WeightPrice > 100 yds. Price < 100 yds.
>100% hemp canvas - 11oz, 12oz$8.50$9.00
>100% hemp canvas - 14oz$9.00$9.50

Hemp canvas is definitely authentic for large swaths of Western 
European history. The very name "canvas" comes from "cannabis" = hemp.

>100% hemp basketweave -12.5oz$11.00$11.50
>100% hemp herringbone -12.5 oz, 15 oz$11.00$11.50
>100% hemp summer cloth -8oz$6.25$6.75
>100% hemp denim twill -12.5oz$9.25$9.75
>100% hemp yarn-dyed denim twill - 13 oz$9.75$10.25
>100% hemp linen - 5.8oz$6.75$7.25
>100% hemp muslin - 59” width - 5oz$6.75$7.25

I would not be at all surprised to find people using hemp canvas 
historically for the sorts of things we use denim for, i.e. sturdy 
clothing, webbing or straps, and the like. I would also not be 
terribly surprised to find "linen" made of hemp (rather than of flax) 
used for such things as grain sacks, rough toweling, et cetera.

I don't know to what extent hemp "linen" or hemp "muslin" -- of the 
rather finer sort that's come on the market recently --  was used for 
historical clothing. And I would doubt whether it occurred to people 
that even fine hemp could be blended with silk; I'm not aware of 
linen/silk blends, and hemp seems to have been seen as a linen-analog.

However I'm just talking off the top of my head here, and would be 
interested to see what people come up with.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] An introduction, and wheelchair costuming
  thoughts...
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 19:50:13 -0800
Status: RO

>> If the fasteners don't show, who's to know if they're period or not?
>> (Someone in a Victorian costume workshop asked the instructor what if
>> someone noticed his trousers fly zipped instead of buttoning, and the
>> instructor said "If they're that close, they're not interested in
>> authenticity".) 
>
>Oh, I beg to differ!  If I'm that close, I'd hate to be disappointed by
>finding inauthentic fastenings.  It'd just totally ruin the mood ;)

But then again, when I use inauthentic fasteners, authenticity-purist-pride
requires me to hide them completely.  Velcro fasteners can be completely
hidden, in many cases, if you're careful.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Button Hook?
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 19:52:39 -0800
Status: RO

Love to see the images, but your attachments didn't arrive.

Jamie Zdziarski writes, in a message sent 09:24 PM 1/13/02 -0500:
>	
>
>Hi!  I'm usually just a lurker, but I came across this tool in a huge
>bag of costume jewelry that I obtained from a flea market.  My first
>thought was of a button hook for Victorian high button shoes, I did a
>search on Ebay, in which I found a few button hooks but were a lot more
>detailed and most made of silver.  So can anyone confirm that this is
>indeed a button hook? I attached 2 pictures of it, it is severely rusted
>but has a beautiful design on the handle if anyone knows how I may
>remove the rust with out damaging the pattern, please let me know.
>Thanks for your help!
>
>Jamie Z.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hemp (WAS: Web sites that sell fabrics suitable
  for costuming)
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 19:55:27 -0800
Status: RO

So where did you get this cloth?  Inquiring minds want to know.

Also, I'm told that hemp so resembles linen that in some cases it can be
mistaken for it.  This has led to some mis-interpretations and
mis-attributions by museums, or so I am told.

>>Fabric Description & WeightPrice > 100 yds. Price < 100 yds.
>>100% hemp canvas - 11oz, 12oz$8.50$9.00
>>100% hemp canvas - 14oz$9.00$9.50
>
>Hemp canvas is definitely authentic for large swaths of Western 
>European history. The very name "canvas" comes from "cannabis" = hemp.
>
>>100% hemp basketweave -12.5oz$11.00$11.50
>>100% hemp herringbone -12.5 oz, 15 oz$11.00$11.50
>>100% hemp summer cloth -8oz$6.25$6.75
>>100% hemp denim twill -12.5oz$9.25$9.75
>>100% hemp yarn-dyed denim twill - 13 oz$9.75$10.25
>>100% hemp linen - 5.8oz$6.75$7.25
>>100% hemp muslin - 59” width - 5oz$6.75$7.25
>
>I would not be at all surprised to find people using hemp canvas 
>historically for the sorts of things we use denim for, i.e. sturdy 
>clothing, webbing or straps, and the like. I would also not be 
>terribly surprised to find "linen" made of hemp (rather than of flax) 
>used for such things as grain sacks, rough toweling, et cetera.
>
>I don't know to what extent hemp "linen" or hemp "muslin" -- of the 
>rather finer sort that's come on the market recently --  was used for 
>historical clothing. And I would doubt whether it occurred to people 
>that even fine hemp could be blended with silk; I'm not aware of 
>linen/silk blends, and hemp seems to have been seen as a linen-analog.
>
>However I'm just talking off the top of my head here, and would be 
>interested to see what people come up with.
>-- 
>_________________________________________________________
>O    Chris Laning
>|     <claning@igc.org>
>+    Davis, California
>_________________________________________________________
>_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 23:14:38 EST
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In a message dated 1/13/02 9:57:21 AM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Drinking tea without milk is, I believe, some strange colonial custom.  

Amen.  I am so glad though.  I like my tea with sugar and either hot or iced. 
 I never could figure out why I would want to put milk or cream in it.  The 
idea just seems weird to me.  
>From the colonial side of the pond.
Kelly
m311@aol.com


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/13/02 9:57:21 AM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Drinking tea without milk is, I believe, some strange colonial custom. &nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Amen. &nbsp;I am so glad though. &nbsp;I like my tea with sugar and either hot or iced. &nbsp;I never could figure out why I would want to put milk or cream in it. &nbsp;The idea just seems weird to me. &nbsp;
<BR>From the colonial side of the pond.
<BR>Kelly
<BR>m311@aol.com
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 21:20:17 -0800
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>
>>
>> Drinking tea without milk is, I believe, some strange colonial custom.  
>
>
> Amen.  I am so glad though.  I like my tea with sugar and either hot or
> iced.  I never could figure out why I would want to put milk or cream in it. 
> The idea just seems weird to me.   
>  From the colonial side of the pond. 


My California grandmother used to make what she called 'tea punch', with ice
cubes, sugar, some flavour like lemon (and I don't remember if she put milk in
or not).  I drink tea and iced tea, not 'tea punch'.  (I don't know what my
Oregon grandmother drank.)

Obligatory costume content:  I drink cold tea, water, or soda at Ren. Faires,
which is another reason to use a tankard with a lid - drinking water is hardly
period for the 1500's.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 14 00:37:26 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT-mold...
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 22:05:08 -0800
Status: RO

So THIS is what the mold this is all about.  I got it yesteday, marked as you
can see as if it were sent on Friday evening.  No wonder we're all confused.
The server apparently held up your post so none of us had seen it, and you
(sensibly) thought we had.

The wonders of technology.

I do sympathize.  My family doesn't have anything like your tangible history,
and I envy those who do.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of LadyGryphon@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 7:38 PM
> To: undisclosed-recipients:
> Subject: [h-cost] OT-mold...
>
>
> Will all and sundry please keep happy thoughts coming our way? My mother's
> just found out that her house has black mold in it and, while she knows her
> options, she's not quite decided what she's going to do about it. Selling the
> house and moving is pretty high on her list of options. This due to the past
> years expenses incurred (reattaching the roof, water damage to most of the
> ceilings, new septic pump amongst others) and her getting a bit tired of it
> being Mr. Blanding's Dream House. The happy thoughts are that it's just plain
> mold and can be gotten rid of rather than TOXIC mold that will cause the house
>  to be "gotten rid of" or "incinerated under controlled conditions". That
> last thought's a scary one. It's a lovely house and holds many happy
> memories. Selfish me-I was also looking forward to having many years of future
>  happy memories in it as it's my inheritance from my mother.
> Wish us nothing but good luck and keep your fingers toes and eyes crossed for
> us.
> Many thanks,
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exciting News!!!!
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 00:10:49 -0600
Status: RO

Congratulations! I know exactly how you feel!! :)

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤

----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Newsletter" <costumegallery@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 2:49 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Exciting News!!!!


> Hello Everyone,
>
> Some VERY exciting things are about to happen in the next couple of weeks.
> So I am going to jump right into it and let you know....  My BIG BREAK is
> about to happen!!!!! (so sorry to those who receive this several times)
>
> A reporter, Francine Parnes, from the Associated Press interviewed me last
> week about historic fashions for an article. The AP article is going out
to
> the news media

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Button Hook?
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 22:14:07 -0800
Status: RO

Elizabeth has set the list so it doesn't accept attachments.  Maybe there's a
web site you can post them on, or you could pop onto the Community Zero
"H-Costume Swap and Sell" http://www.communityzero.com/hcostume/ and post it
there.  (Make sure you mark it not for sale, unless you want to sell it :)



MaggiRos



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
> Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 7:53 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Button Hook?
>
>
> Love to see the images, but your attachments didn't arrive.
>
> Jamie Zdziarski writes, in a message sent 09:24 PM 1/13/02 -0500:
> >
> >
> >Hi!  I'm usually just a lurker, but I came across this tool in a huge
> >bag of costume jewelry that I obtained from a flea market.  My first
> >thought was of a button hook for Victorian high button shoes, I did a
> >search on Ebay, in which I found a few button hooks but were a lot more
> >detailed and most made of silver.  So can anyone confirm that this is
> >indeed a button hook? I attached 2 pictures of it, it is severely rusted
> >but has a beautiful design on the handle if anyone knows how I may
> >remove the rust with out damaging the pattern, please let me know.
> >Thanks for your help!
> >
> >Jamie Z.
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bierstein??
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:27:43 +0200
Status: RO

 
> > Beer is also referred to as "liquid bread" at times.
> 
> It's also made of grains, and it has quite a lot of calories
> (from the alcohol).

In ancient Egypt beer was made by fermenting unbaked bread, if 
I remember correctly what I read.

Ulrike
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:56:22 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> You''l be telling me next you don't warm the mug first & put milk in
> your tea

That's right.  It's the *only* way to do it.
 
Actually, that's how I *used* to have tea - I gave up drinking it about 
seven years ago when I had some health problems and I've been 
so much better ever since that I haven't gone back to it.

Teddy
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 21:14:46 -0800
Status: RO



Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Claire Clarke wrote:
> 
>> Ack! I needed to know this a year ago!
> 
> 
> Um..sorry...

Ah well. Now I know...:-)

> 
> 
>> 
> 
> Well, part of it is that, at least on Elizabethan, the horizontal front
> of the neckline is not quite horizontal, but instead is an arch.  So
> you're not getting 90 degrees anyway.

That makes sense....

> 
> Perhaps this is obvious, but just in case:  it may also transpire, in
> fitting, that because of the slope of the shoulder and the angle of the
> strap, the strap might have to curve to meet the back of the bodice at
> the proper location.
> 
> Just flipping through my Holbein book, it looks like some of the Tudor
> necklines were arched as well, and many of them look to have a
> less-than-90-degree angle at the strap.  Of course, there's the whole
> pin-on-placket issue, and I suppose you can make the top of it any shape
> you like.  In addition, there's the possible-v-back issue (see Holbein's
> sketch of the Unknown Lady from 1535, front and back), which would make
> an acute angle necessary and help tremendously in keeping the straps up,
> especially considering the weight of Tudor sleeves.

Mine does have a v-back, which probably adds to the problem....

> 
>> I need to 
>> seriously rework the
>> whole armsceye/shoulder area on that gown.
> 
> 
> If you're anywhere near the Milwaukee area, I would be happy to assist
> in any way I can with the fitting.  I have Garb Workdays twice a month
> in the costume shop where I work.

Thank you kindly, but nowhere near Milwaukee. Not remotely.

Claire (in Australia)



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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:06:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> No one does NOT have to put milk in it unless one is a builder ;)

Despite Mel's dislike of it, the "standard" way to have tea in England 
is with milk even for posh people.... that's why tea-services are 
made with matching milk jugs and sugar-bowls.....<g>

This carries over to such an extent that I even know people these 
days who drink what I refer to as "drug teas" (all of those horrid 
combinations of flavoured teas like Apple and Cinamon, Lanoline 
and Bandage, Vaseline and Old Sock etc) with milk and sugar - 
which makes me shudder even more than the concept of drinking 
those sorts of teas at all.

> Neither does one ice tea I believe they do in France however. Much
> to my shame my son drinks iced tea, send him to France for 6 months
> & he returns with such filthy habits ;) 

There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.  What a horrid idea to 
drink your tea *cold*..... <shudder!>

Teddy.



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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 11:32:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Drat!  If I hadn't revealed my ignorance, I could have made out like I
> was more couth than Teddy.  But, ah, too late!

Truth is, Jean, it don't take much!

<snortle!>

Teddy


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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:31:37 -0000
Status: RO

>Despite Mel's dislike of it, the "standard" way to have tea in England
is with milk even for posh people.... that's why tea-services are
made with matching milk jugs and sugar-bowls.....<g>

Not wishing to start a tea war :) But....I think it depends on the tea being
drunk, the period and several other factors too . :0)

Dajeeling (sp ?) Earl Grey are IMHO too light a flavour to corrupt with milk
and in my experiance are not drunk with milk commonly. Wheras Yorkshire tea,
PG tips etc are, but then they are also served it paper sacks (tea bags) :(

I could suggest tea jugs are rather middle class. (if I was being catty)
Sugar & lots is pretty common WAY back at any level I've found

It is etiquette to ask if one takes milk and sugar, therefore whilst
acceptable to drink with milk it is also acceptable to drink without.

Bottom line though, drink your tea the way that pleases you !!

BTW Early Victorians dissapproved of tea drinking esp for Women, Q Vicoria
didn't have tea until she became Queen apparently her carers banned it.

Mel

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 07:50:26 -0600
Status: RO

At 09:55 PM 1/13/2002, you wrote:
>So where did you get this cloth?  Inquiring minds want to know.

As per previous mail:
http://www.pickhemp.com

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:48:24 -0500
Status: RO



Thanks for posting those pictures and the text! Isn't it amazing what a
difference having a PERSON in clothes makes? The jump dress looks a bit
dowdy hanging by itself, but it looked great on Kate Winslett.

But I am shocked to find that it is a size 4! I am not one of the strange
people who thought Kate Winslett looked FAT in the movie. I thought she
looked great, like a normal human being rather than one of those too-thin
Hollywood actresses. (I read an interview once with an actress who said that
every woman in Hollywood was a size 2 or 4). I know that film makes people
look fatter, but still, I wouldn't have guessed less than a 6.

Gail Finke


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Subject: [h-cost] Re:(H-cost) Bath costume Museum (QEII dresses)
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:37:17 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hello folks,

Someone was asling about the Queen Elizabeth II dress exhibition 
at the Bath Museum of Costume, last week I think?

Anyhow, while visitng the are this weekend, Danielle and I got to 
see the Museum and made a point of seeing this exhibition.

There were about 16 to 20 dresses, mostly from the late 1960s and 
70's.  As it's not really my period, I can't tell you very much detail 
except that the only ones I liked were all by Norman Harnell (they 
had better silhouettes and fuller skirts, the others were too narrow) 
and there was only one Norman Hartnell dress I didn't like at all 
(darkish-turquoise 1970's jobbie with no real shape to it and a 
narrow full-length skirt)

Sorry not to give a detailed report of each one, but they were all 
very similar, falling into two categories, ones with narrow skirts and 
ones with full or fuller skirts, all in 1960's/1970's colour scemes and 
patterns.  One particularly full-skirted one had a huge, lovely orange 
bow at the back but the fabric also had horrible orange 1970's 
flowery patterns on plain off-white background, which spoiled the 
effect somewhat, for me.

The rest of the collection was disappointingly small (the part on 
display at least)  They were all nice pieces and the stuff on show 
was leaned heavily towards womens 18th century stuff....  but there 
was a nice early 17th century smock that was blackworked on the 
upper body and sleeves and looked like the bits on display in the 
nexkline and sleeves of those late Elizabethan paintings which are 
often hotly debated as to whether they are a shirt-like shift or an 
embroidered partlet (nexk infill thingy) and matching sleeves.

Teddy




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 11:28:56 -0500
Status: RO

Remember, it depends on the original real build of the woman. There 
really and truly are women designed by nature to be a size 2. Not 
many... but they do exist, with womanly figures, looking lovely, not 
skinny. You don't even really notice how small they are until you try to 
fit them.

The ones we think of are the women designed by nature to be a size 8, 
who are starving themselves down to squeeze into a 4. That's not pretty, 
but it is encouraged in the industry, for many reasons. I've never seen  
Winslett in person, let alone fit her, so I have no idea what her build 
is like, but it certainly sounds as if this was natural for her.


The performers I meet who are really struggling are dancers. They build 
up muscle around their hips and legs, and then "look hippy" and feel 
fat. At a size 8... without an extra ounce of fat on their bodies!

Then, there are also women who are equally truly designed to be a 12 or 
a 14, without any extra padding. I understand that, because, if I were 
thin, I'd be a 14. My wrists hang out of a 12... But many of these 
women, in the business, either give up and become/stay heavy, because no 
one will accept their real build, but they can get work if they aren't 
expecting to be ingenues, or else they try to starve themselves down to 
a 10. They really look like scarecrows...

Lots of pressure on all, and almost all coming from people who look at 
numbers, and don't really *look* at the bodies.

Anne



Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>
>
>But I am shocked to find that it is a size 4! I am not one of the strange
>people who thought Kate Winslett looked FAT in the movie. I thought she
>looked great, like a normal human being rather than one of those too-thin
>Hollywood actresses. (I read an interview once with an actress who said that
>every woman in Hollywood was a size 2 or 4). I know that film makes people
>look fatter, but still, I wouldn't have guessed less than a 6.
>
>Gail Finke
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 11:40:03 EST
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> Despite Mel's dislike of it, the "standard" way to have tea in England 
> is with milk even for posh people.... that's why tea-services are 
> made with matching milk jugs and sugar-bowls.....<g>
>
> This carries over to such an extent that I even know people these 
> days who drink what I refer to as "drug teas" (all of those horrid 
> combinations of flavoured teas like Apple and Cinamon, Lanoline 
> and Bandage, Vaseline and Old Sock etc) with milk and sugar - 
> which makes me shudder even more than the concept of drinking 
> those sorts of teas at all.

ROFL! Thanks Teddy!

I don't mind some of the flavored teas (Constant Comment and Earl Grey are 
standards in my cupboard), but not the really heavy flavors and not most of 
the herbal teas on the market (way too sweet for my taste).


> 
> >> Neither does one ice tea I believe they do in France however. Much
> >> to my shame my son drinks iced tea, send him to France for 6 months
> >> & he returns with such filthy habits ;) 
> >
> > There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.  What a horrid idea to 
> > drink your tea *cold*..... <shudder!>

When the (Fahrenheit) temperature and the relative humidity are both over 90, 
believe me it tastes good :)  It's got to be genuine brewed tea though -- 
some American restaurants have switched to a tea concentrate that they can 
hook up to the pop machine, and it tastes lousy.  I got some a couple years 
ago that tasted like it had been brewed from stale cherry Sucrets (an 
American cough drop).

Leah



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>&gt; Despite Mel's dislike of it, the "standard" way to have tea in England <BR>
&gt; is with milk even for posh people.... that's why tea-services are <BR>
&gt; made with matching milk jugs and sugar-bowls.....&lt;g&gt;<BR>
&gt;<BR>
&gt; This carries over to such an extent that I even know people these <BR>
&gt; days who drink what I refer to as "drug teas" (all of those horrid <BR>
&gt; combinations of flavoured teas like Apple and Cinamon, Lanoline <BR>
&gt; and Bandage, Vaseline and Old Sock etc) with milk and sugar - <BR>
&gt; which makes me shudder even more than the concept of drinking <BR>
&gt; those sorts of teas at all.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">ROFL! Thanks Teddy!<BR>
<BR>
I don't mind some of the flavored teas (Constant Comment and Earl Grey are standards in my cupboard), but not the really heavy flavors and not most of the herbal teas on the market (way too sweet for my taste).<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR>
&gt;&gt; Neither does one ice tea I believe they do in France however. Much<BR>
&gt;&gt; to my shame my son drinks iced tea, send him to France for 6 months<BR>
&gt;&gt; &amp; he returns with such filthy habits ;) <BR>
&gt;<BR>
&gt; There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.&nbsp; What a horrid idea to <BR>
&gt; drink your tea *cold*..... &lt;shudder!&gt;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">When the (Fahrenheit) temperature and the relative humidity are both over 90, believe me it tastes good :)&nbsp; It's got to be genuine brewed tea though -- some American restaurants have switched to a tea concentrate that they can hook up to the pop machine, and it tastes lousy.&nbsp; I got some a couple years ago that tasted like it had been brewed from stale cherry Sucrets (an American cough drop).<BR>
<BR>
Leah</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject:  [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:50:38 +0000
Status: RO

Some time ago I asked the list about US vs. UK sizes and was told they were, in theory, the same. BUT the smallest woman's size sold in the UK is an 8, so I can't imagine what these 2s and 4s are like!


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> afmmurphy@earthlink.net 01/14/02 04:28pm >>>
Remember, it depends on the original real build of the woman. There 
really and truly are women designed by nature to be a size 2. Not 
many... but they do exist, with womanly figures, looking lovely, not 
skinny. You don't even really notice how small they are until you try to 
fit them.

The ones we think of are the women designed by nature to be a size 8, 
who are starving themselves down to squeeze into a 4. That's not pretty, 
but it is encouraged in the industry, for many reasons. I've never seen  
Winslett in person, let alone fit her, so I have no idea what her build 
is like, but it certainly sounds as if this was natural for her.




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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:10:30 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Lady G-

After a decree that things have to be destroyed, how
much time would you have to prepare?  I'm thinking
things like scanning photographs, photographing
objects, and taking notes.  I know it won't be "the
same" at all, but it might be a little better than
just inside-your-head memories.

With sympathy,
Angela


--- LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> Thus the only thing TO do is either remove all
> contaminated items and destroy 
> them or if the infestation is too far involved for
> it to be "fixable"-destroy 
> the entire house and contents. That's what we fear
> the most. Destruction of 
> all our tangible memories and other things that
> cannot be replaced at any 
> cost. I mean how can money replace the chair that my
> umpteen great 
> grandfather hand made (and rubbed a jillion coats of
> beeswax into) all those 
> years ago, photographs of my great grandparents on
> their wedding day, the 
> quilt my grandmother made for me while my mother was
> preggers with me and 
> dozens of other like items. We're all in shock.
> Thank you for you concern, it is greatly
> appreciated.
> Lady G

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Subject: [h-cost] Real Pearls?
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 11:17:24 -0600
Status: RO

How does one tell if a strand of pearls are real or glass pearls?  

A few weeks ago I picked up a pearl necklace with a few nice red glass beads with matching clip-on earrings.  The pearls are ten mm, they are creme color, not white They also were not individually knotted on the strand.  I paid about $6.00 for the set.

I just have had the time to look closely at the set and was comparing them to a set that I was given for Christmas, that are definately the real thing.  The weight of the two necklaces are simular, discounting the size and length differences.  I cannot detect any mold lines or any indications of how they were made.  The color or coating doesn't seem likely to peel or chip either, even around the hole that definately looks drilled into the pearl.

What should I be looking for?

Alexandria
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Real Pearls?
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:31:45 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Alexandria Doyle <dragonlair@wireweb.net> wrote:
> How does one tell if a strand of pearls are real or
> glass pearls?  

Real pearls (including cultured) feel slightly gritty
against the teeth.

Iohanna the Harper
[m.k.a. Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:33:51 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Hello Alexandra
Real pearls, when rubbed across the teeth, feel rough.
 Fake ones, especially glass, feel slick.  Whether
cultured or natural, if they are genuine pearls, they
should feel rough, or "gritty" when you rub them
across the surface of your front teeth.

Hope that helps
Carol

=====
....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....

"The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."

"The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde

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From: " Sarah Goodman" <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 01:42:21 +0800
Status: RO

Hi all,

I'm curious if anyone knows when cording became a popular method of stiffening corsets/bodices.  I know that it was popular at least by 1850, but my hope was that it can be traced further back than that...

Anyone have some good leads?

Sarah
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Clogs
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:47:14 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Sun, 13 Jan 2002, Marc Carlson wrote:
> I seam to have missed the original response, so if there was more to it than 
> this, please let me know.

Not really :)
I've just got a thing about them because someone told me that they weren't
worn in the 18th c. by the English (in England) and American colonists,
and I'd love to prove otherwise.
 
> As for people liking them or not, it's a personal thing.  There's nothing 
> wrong with them, or people liking them.  However, after spending some 
> serious time around a number of communes in the 60s, there's just something 
> about them that reminds me of the less 'fun' aspects of chosing to live a 
> 'primitive' lifestyle with insufficient research.  Personally they make my 
> feet hurt (and their more form fitted descendents, the birkenstocks are even 
> worse (for me).

Ugh, I can't wear Birkies either.  Communes are before my time, but I can
understand where you're coming from.  Clogs certainly aren't for everyone.

> I don't recall at this point where I heard the story, but there was a thing 
> about someone who was growing up in the area, and growing up hearing the 
> sounds of all the hundreds of factory girls clogs on the cobblestones as 
> they headed up to work in the morning.
> 
> Marc

My hubby says he can locate me at the hardware store, when we've gone off
in different directions, because of the distinctive 'clip, clop' noise
they make.  I tend to wear mine with two pairs of socks -- a pair of
cotton socks with a pair of ragg wool socks over them.  They don't hurt my
feet.  They're good on mud (and in the garden, when I am using a shovel
and need an extra stiff sole), but are treacherous on ice.

-- Mara

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:50:52 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 15 Jan 2002,  Sarah Goodman wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm curious if anyone knows when cording became a popular method of stiffening corsets/bodices.  I know that it was popular at least by 1850, but my hope was that it can be traced further back than that...
> 
> Anyone have some good leads?
> 
> Sarah

I've seen references to corded stays in the 18th century.

-- Mara

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:14:20 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:50 PM 01/14/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Some time ago I asked the list about US vs. UK sizes and was told they
were, in theory, the same. BUT the smallest woman's size sold in the UK is
an 8, so I can't imagine what these 2s and 4s are like!
>
Well, my size 4 pattern sloper is 33" bust, 25" waist.  But American sizing
isn't standardized at ALL.  Each manufacturer arrives at their own idea of
what  sizing should be.  This is compounded by "vanity sizing", in which
sizes are labeled much, much smaller than average, to flatter rich ladies
and make them want to buy a size "4" that is really more like an 8 or 10.
Could this be what's happening here?  Because, if Kate Winslett is really
that small,  Leo de Caprio must be really, really little.

Margo



Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 13:16:10 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 14/1/02 11:12:21 AM, a_kovatch@yahoo.com writes:
<< After a decree that things have to be destroyed, how much time would you 
have to prepare? >>

The inspector gets here about 10am tomorrow morning, once/if (s)he says the 
house is uninhabitable that's it. Whatever portion that has the mould on/in 
it will have to be destroyed. There is no preparation time. Fortunately I've 
scanned in most of the really important (ie the ones I have a personal 
interest in) photos, just for my own amusement and I have them on disc. I'm 
about half insane with this right now.
Thank you for your concern,
Lady G
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 13:38:17 -0500
Status: RO

>
>
> Yes, he looks a fine up-standing fellow... but what can you tell me about
> the half-timbered cottage in the background of 1257, please!!!  Are the
> walls and roof fabric, or ???  Is it a merchant booth or a really decadent
> tent on a trailer frame, or ???
>
> thanks,
> Chimene/Patsy
>

It is a Japanese teahouse built around a converted RV, I think.  I now
communicate with the owner by e-mail, but didn't know him at the time that I
originally asked to check it out.  I can write him and ask for further details,
if you like.

Andrea

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 13:38:32 -0500
Status: RO

Colonial Williamsburg keeps their clothing, etc. right around (just before, just after) the American Revolution.  The man who's been 'the tailor' there for a number of years has done a lot of research into that (among other things).  I can't give you a date... and I seem to have mislaid the paper I wrote it down on (keep meaning to send a letter to double check), but he's come across a picture of a woman in some disarray who is wearing a corded bodice from that period, visible in the picture.

The picture is of a woman in red, holding a letter in one hand.  I can't remember if all of her garb is red, or just the stays, or just the dress itself.  The picture dates to the 1700s, but I can't remember closer than that.

He's also come across a few other references, though IIRC, that was the best primary source he's found.  I believe that though they were referred to as corded stays, they also had another name (I'm fairly certain it wasn't, but the name pajama is sticking in my head... so it may have been something similar).  There were more than one style, in more than one level of stiffness (some wouldn't have been worn except to be comfortable in the privacy of your own private sitting room for example... while others were perfectly
respectable for everyday wear).

He's a wonderful source of information, and is very willing to share the resource sources he's found (names at least) with those who are truly interested.


-Elisabeth


>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
> On Tue, 15 Jan 2002,  Sarah Goodman wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone knows when cording became a popular method of stiffening corsets/bodices.  I know that it was popular at least by 1850, but my hope was that it can be traced further back than that...
> >
> > Anyone have some good leads?
> >
> > Sarah
>
> I've seen references to corded stays in the 18th century.
>
> -- Mara
>
> -

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References: <200201141814.KAA24649@artemis.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:38:33 -0600
Status: RO

Yes, US and UK(EUR) are different. Burda brand patterns sold here in the US
cause confusion because one requires a larger size in a Burda than Vogue,
Simplicity, McCalls and Butterrick. To compound the problem, the last
quartet of pattern manufacturers sizes run smaller than off-the-rack
fashions.  It would help for off the rack sales if each manufacturer put the
actual dimensions each size is supposed to fit.

The problem lies in that while American women as a whole are taller and
wider than 50-60 years ago, the official U.S. sizing charts haven't changed
since World War II.  Some designers don't want women over a certain size to
wear their fashions or won't cut for petites because they want their designs
only on very tall, very thin women. I think the so-called vanity sizing is
more sizing trying to keep up with the actual increases in height and weight
of the U.S. population in the last century. We are getting fatter, but due
to good nutrition, most children today are taller than their parents,
grandparents, and great-grandparents. I was predicted to be only 4'9-5' tall
at most by age 18 but ended up 4'11 1/2"; our family doctor credited that to
good nutrition and unusually good childhood health.

Many movie starts, from the silents on, have been shorter and
thinner(especially the women) than the average person on the street. A lot
of leading men have had to stand on a box or the leading lady in a "trench"
for those midshots! It is a fact that on official Hollywood bios Tom Cruise
and Nicole Kidman are about the same height, but I think Cruise is actually
the same height or a bit shorter than his ex!
Cindy Abel
ILL Coordinator
Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
2500 California Plaza
Omaha NE 68178-0210
Phone: 402. 280-5144
Fax:     402.280-5134
----- Original Message -----
From: <Margo@Margospatterns.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses


> At 04:50 PM 01/14/2002 +0000, you wrote:
> >Some time ago I asked the list about US vs. UK sizes and was told they
> were, in theory, the same. BUT the smallest woman's size sold in the UK is
> an 8, so I can't imagine what these 2s and 4s are like!
> >
> Well, my size 4 pattern sloper is 33" bust, 25" waist.  But American
sizing
> isn't standardized at ALL.  Each manufacturer arrives at their own idea of
> what  sizing should be.  This is compounded by "vanity sizing", in which
> sizes are labeled much, much smaller than average, to flatter rich ladies
> and make them want to buy a size "4" that is really more like an 8 or 10.
> Could this be what's happening here?  Because, if Kate Winslett is really
> that small,  Leo de Caprio must be really, really little.
>
> Margo
>
>
>
> Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
> margospatterns.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:45:30 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Margo@margospatterns.com wrote:
But American sizing
> isn't standardized at ALL.  

No kidding!  My size ranges from 22 to 28 depending on
the manufacturer.

Iohanna the Harper
[m.k.a. Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:51:01 GMT
Status: RO

Although I am considerably better padded these days, back in the mid 80's when I was at my thinnest, I measured 36-26-36 and the smallest size I ever wore was an American 7/8. I am designed to be robust and those measurements at my height (5'7") made me look like a skeleton. Honestly, I'm pretty sure that my bones and internal organs alone are bigger than a size 4!!!!


Karen




---------- Margo@margospatterns.com writes:

From: Margo@margospatterns.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:14:20 -0800

At 04:50 PM 01/14/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Some time ago I asked the list about US vs. UK sizes and was told they
were, in theory, the same. BUT the smallest woman's size sold in the UK is
an 8, so I can't imagine what these 2s and 4s are like!
>
Well, my size 4 pattern sloper is 33" bust, 25" waist.  But American sizing
isn't standardized at ALL.  Each manufacturer arrives at their own idea of
what  sizing should be.  This is compounded by "vanity sizing", in which
sizes are labeled much, much smaller than average, to flatter rich ladies
and make them want to buy a size "4" that is really more like an 8 or 10.
Could this be what's happening here?  Because, if Kate Winslett is really
that small,  Leo de Caprio must be really, really little.

Margo



Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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From: " Sarah Goodman" <lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 02:51:27 +0800
Status: RO


-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:50:52 -0500 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets

> > Anyone have some good leads?
> > 
> > Sarah
> 
> I've seen references to corded stays in the 18th century.

Hi Mara,

Do you happen to remember where you found those references?  I'm trying to see if I can trace it back even further than the 18th c.  Ideally, it would be nice to see if they're documentable prior to the 16th century, but I'm not holding my breath on that one.  Since most of the corset history books focus primarily on whale bone or reed stiffening, this is sort of difficult to document.  Thanks for the info!

Sarah
*****
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From: " Sarah Goodman" <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets
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-----Original Message-----
From: Liz / Cozit <cozit@home.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 13:38:32 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets


> Colonial Williamsburg keeps their clothing, etc. >right around (just before, just after) the American >Revolution.  The man who's been 'the tailor' there >for a number of years has done a lot of research >into that (among other things).  

Thanks Liz!

Would this man be Rick Hill, by any chance?

Sarah
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In a message dated 1/14/02 5:10:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 
writes:
> 
> There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.  What a horrid idea to 
> drink your tea *cold*..... <shudder!>

       If you haven't tried it, don't knock it.  Nothing beats a tall glass 
of ice tea with lemon on a really hot day.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/14/02 5:10:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR>There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid. &nbsp;What a horrid idea to 
<BR>drink your tea *cold*..... &lt;shudder!&gt;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;If you haven't tried it, don't knock it. &nbsp;Nothing beats a tall glass of ice tea with lemon on a really hot day.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 11:08:12 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I am currently working on an outfit that calls for a
sewn in sleeve.  Well, at least partially.  The sleeve
is sewn into the bodice except for the bottom portion
which is left open for extra movement and ventilation.

Now, my question is how to go about doing this so it
looks right and lays smoothly?  

Would I finish the sleeve off first and then sew just
half of it into the arms eye or would I sew the
unfinished sleeve into the arms eye half way and then
finish off the remainder of the sleeve separately?

That's about as clear as mud I should think.

Thank you.

Ghislaine

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:27:45 -0600 (CST)
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On Mon, 14 Jan 2002 LalahTT@aol.com wrote:

> > There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.  What a horrid idea to 
> > drink your tea *cold*..... <shudder!>
> 
>        If you haven't tried it, don't knock it.  Nothing beats a tall glass 
> of ice tea with lemon on a really hot day.

Ah, but you forget. They don't *have* really hot days in the UK anywhere
near the frequency or extremity that we do, so they haven't had occasion
to discover that iced tea is the perfect drink for multiweek stretches of
90-degree days.

--Robin


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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:12:46 -0700
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On Mon, Jan 14, 2002 at 11:08:12AM -0800, Sidonia Ros wrote:
> Would I finish the sleeve off first and then sew just
> half of it into the arms eye or would I sew the
> unfinished sleeve into the arms eye half way and then
> finish off the remainder of the sleeve separately?

When I make a Ghawzee coat, I sew in the top half of the raw sleeve as
if it were going in normally.  Then I finish the open edges and angle
them into the seamed area for a smooth look.

				...eliz

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Clogs
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:21:16 +0000
Status: RO

Marc Carlson <marccarlson20@hotmail.com> wrote
>
>>>>Ick. (I really have a personal thing about wooden shoes :) )
>>>LOL!  Sorry to hear that.  I've got wooden-soled clogs and I think I
>>like them for the noise they make
>
>I seam to have missed the original response, so if there was more to it than 
>this, please let me know.
>
>As for people liking them or not, it's a personal thing.  There's nothing 
>wrong with them, or people liking them.  However, after spending some 
>serious time around a number of communes in the 60s, there's just something 
>about them that reminds me of the less 'fun' aspects of chosing to live a 
>'primitive' lifestyle with insufficient research.  Personally they make my 
>feet hurt (and their more form fitted descendents, the birkenstocks are even 
>worse (for me).
>
>OTOH, I know that other people -do- like them, and they helped keep 
>bazillions of people's feet dry and safe before the Wellington.  I even 
>brought home a set of Walkeley's clogs for my wife when I was in that part 
>of Lancashire researching an article on a different clog museum a couple of 
>years ago (A by appointment or invitation only place in Bacup that it seems 
>that no one else has ever heard of).
>
>I don't recall at this point where I heard the story, but there was a thing 
>about someone who was growing up in the area, and growing up hearing the 
>sounds of all the hundreds of factory girls clogs on the cobblestones as 
>they headed up to work in the morning.

It's probably not a specific reference - it must have been a common
experience.  After all, that's where clog dancing developed, from men
just getting up in the corner of the pub and making rhythm.

Jean


>
>Marc
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:50:25 EST
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In a message dated 1/14/2002 11:31:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
afmmurphy@earthlink.net writes:


> The ones we think of are the women designed by nature to be a size 8, 
> who are starving themselves down to squeeze into a 4. 

Especially since a size 4 used to be a size 8 a few decades ago.


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/14/2002 11:31:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, afmmurphy@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">The ones we think of are the women designed by nature to be a size 8, 
<BR>who are starving themselves down to squeeze into a 4. </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Especially since a size 4 used to be a size 8 a few decades ago.
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:52:46 EST
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In a message dated 1/14/2002 1:17:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Margo@margospatterns.com writes:


> Well, my size 4 pattern sloper is 33" bust, 25" waist.  But American sizing
> isn't standardized at ALL.  Each manufacturer arrives at their own idea of
> what  sizing should be.  This is compounded by "vanity sizing", in which
> sizes are labeled much, much smaller than average, to flatter rich ladies
> and make them want to buy a size "4" that is really more like an 8 or 10.
> Could this be what's happening here?  Because, if Kate Winslett is really
> that small,  Leo de Caprio must be really, really little.
> 

And seeing that her costumes are custom made from patterns drafted for 
her......

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/14/2002 1:17:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, Margo@margospatterns.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Well, my size 4 pattern sloper is 33" bust, 25" waist. &nbsp;But American sizing
<BR>isn't standardized at ALL. &nbsp;Each manufacturer arrives at their own idea of
<BR>what &nbsp;sizing should be. &nbsp;This is compounded by "vanity sizing", in which
<BR>sizes are labeled much, much smaller than average, to flatter rich ladies
<BR>and make them want to buy a size "4" that is really more like an 8 or 10.
<BR>Could this be what's happening here? &nbsp;Because, if Kate Winslett is really
<BR>that small, &nbsp;Leo de Caprio must be really, really little.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>And seeing that her costumes are custom made from patterns drafted for her......</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Real Pearls?
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:53:08 -0500
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How does one tell if a strand of pearls are real or glass pearls?
What should I be looking for?

Alexandria,

Look in your yellow pages for a reputable certified jeweler.  X-ray or
blacklight testing is a better way of getting the truth and a certificate of
authenticity for the money you spend than rubbing them across your teeth
which will only tell you if there is an organic surface to the bead but not
if its because its a pearl or because its glass that has been dipped in
boiled fish scale essence to give it a coating of luster and iridescence .

http://www.khojhyderabad.com/fashion/jew/infopearl.htm

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Subject: [h-cost] 1730-1770s furtrapper garb
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:00:20 -0500
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Hello, dear list!

A friend of mine in another state happened to mention to me offhand that she 
is starting to play with a Rendezvous re-creation group, timeframe 
1730-1770.  She would like her persona to be a lady furtrapper, of Scottish 
origin.  She's got a birthday coming up, and I'd like to make for her some 
basics for her kit..... a bonnet, apron, etc.

Can anyone recommend any good, basic books, websites, patterns, to get me 
started?

Thanks,
  Parsla

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:19:53 -0500
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>No kidding!  My size ranges from 22 to 28 depending on
>the manufacturer.

And I'm anywhere from a 10 to a 16.

Sizes ahve changed over time, though.  My mother has many of her clothing 
from the late 1950s and 1960s.  Forty years later, she still has the same 
measurements and is able to fit these clothes pretty well still.  Those 
clothes tend to be a size 12-14.  When she buys clothes today she goes for 
sizes 4-6-8.

Parsla

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:47:46 -0600
Status: RO

>From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
>I've just got a thing about them because someone told me that they >weren't 
>worn in the 18th c. by the English (in England) and American colonists, and 
>I'd love to prove otherwise.

I'll keep my eyes open.  I don't know about the American colonists, but I'm 
pretty sure the English didn't just forget about them for a while.

>My hubby says he can locate me at the hardware store, when we've gone >off 
>in different directions, because of the distinctive 'clip, clop' noise they 
>make.  I tend to wear mine with two pairs of socks -- a pair of cotton 
>socks with a pair of ragg wool socks over them.  They don't hurt my feet.  
>They're good on mud (and in the garden, when I am using a shovel and need 
>an extra stiff sole), but are treacherous on ice.

I can imagine.

Marc

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From: " Sarah Goodman" <lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 04:52:22 +0800
Status: RO


-----Original Message-----
From: "Parsla Liepa" <pliepa@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:19:53 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses


> 
> 
> 
> >No kidding!  My size ranges from 22 to 28 depending on
> >the manufacturer.
> 
> And I'm anywhere from a 10 to a 16.
> 

And speaking for the short people here... I can go anywhere from a size 4 to a size 0, depending upon where I'm shopping.  All I want is a designer who doesn't believe that all size 2 jeans should have a 32" inseam.  As if.

-- 


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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:12:55 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Mon, 14 Jan 2002, A F Murphy wrote:
> Remember, it depends on the original real build of the woman. There 
> really and truly are women designed by nature to be a size 2. Not 
> many... but they do exist, with womanly figures, looking lovely, not 
> skinny. You don't even really notice how small they are until you try to 
> fit them.

That would be my youngest sister, who is actually (if such a thing exists)
a Size 0.  She's recently begun weightlifting and has consequently put on
a few pounds, so she weighs 105 lbs (at about 5'6").  She's quite strong,
actually, in a wiry way, and eats a very healthy diet.  Wish I had her
metabolism...  Anyway, she can't find clothes that fit, except in the
petite section -- but then the jacket sleeves are too short, and the
skirts are so short she looks like Ally McBeal (which is not what she
wants).  Good thing she can sew.

> The ones we think of are the women designed by nature to be a size 8, 
> who are starving themselves down to squeeze into a 4. That's not pretty, 
> but it is encouraged in the industry, for many reasons. I've never seen  
> Winslett in person, let alone fit her, so I have no idea what her build 
> is like, but it certainly sounds as if this was natural for her.

I believe I read that she weighed about 125 lbs at the time the movie was
made -- which made all the carping about how chubby she was seem very
cruel to me (I was then about 140 lbs at 5'6").  The guys (my hubby and a
friend) that I went to see the movie with thought she had a wonderful
figure -- I think the terms "ripe" and "edible" were used :D.
 
(snip)
> Then, there are also women who are equally truly designed to be a 12 or 
> a 14, without any extra padding. I understand that, because, if I were 
> thin, I'd be a 14. My wrists hang out of a 12... But many of these 
> women, in the business, either give up and become/stay heavy, because no 
> one will accept their real build, but they can get work if they aren't 
> expecting to be ingenues, or else they try to starve themselves down to 
> a 10. They really look like scarecrows...

That would be me, too.  Even when I weighed about 20 lbs less (back in
college), I wore a size 16 because of my broad back and shoulders -- due,
I'm sure, to being on swim team for a few years in junior high school.  At
that point, a dress would fit in the shoulders/arms, but would hang
awkwardly otherwise.  Now, I'm consistently a size 16 all over, which
helps a bit with costuming and patterns.  I'm not skinny, but I'm not
getting any complaints from my hubby! <grin>

> Lots of pressure on all, and almost all coming from people who look at 
> numbers, and don't really *look* at the bodies.
> 
> Anne

Ain't it ridiculous?

-- Mara

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:17:26 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 15 Jan 2002,  Sarah Goodman wrote:
> Do you happen to remember where you found those references?  I'm trying to see if I can trace it back even further than the 18th c.  Ideally, it would be nice to see if they're documentable prior to the 16th century, but I'm not holding my breath on that one.  Since most of the corset history books focus primarily on whale bone or reed stiffening, this is sort of difficult to document.  Thanks for the info!
> 
> Sarah

I'll try to track them down, but you might try going to
www.groups.yahoo.com and subscribing to the 18thCWomen list, then
searching the archives.  I know it's come up in email before...

Regards,
Mara

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1730-1770s furtrapper garb
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:26:12 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Why is it that all 'Vousers want to do Scottish?  <g>

This is one of the best sites on the web about 18th c. clothing:
http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/

You can find patterns for a lot of this sort of thing on the web at
http://www.jpryan.com/ -- she's got a 'basic women's kit' pattern that is
pretty good and gets you the basic wardrobe.

Here's my site -- but a word of warning: there's little/no evidence that
Scotswomen (or Scotsmen) retained significantly Scottish costume elements
once they made it to the New World.  My site is geared toward people
reenacting the battle of Culloden etc., in Scotland, not toward the Fur
Trapper crowd:
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Scotland2.htm
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/18thCWomen.htm

I've never seen any evidence that Scotswomen wore blue knit Scots bonnets
(tams) in the Colonies.

If she's going for accuracy, she should avoid calico "prairie" style camp  
dresses, etc., which are typically more appropriate for 19th century
reenacting.

There's also a yahoo group for French and Indian War women reenactors,
which she might find helpful:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FandIWomen/

Cheers,
Mara


On Mon, 14 Jan 2002, Parsla Liepa wrote:

> 
> Hello, dear list!
> 
> A friend of mine in another state happened to mention to me offhand that she 
> is starting to play with a Rendezvous re-creation group, timeframe 
> 1730-1770.  She would like her persona to be a lady furtrapper, of Scottish 
> origin.  She's got a birthday coming up, and I'd like to make for her some 
> basics for her kit..... a bonnet, apron, etc.
> 
> Can anyone recommend any good, basic books, websites, patterns, to get me 
> started?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Parsla

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Clogs
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:30:49 -0000
Status: RO

>I've just got a thing about them because someone told me that they weren't
worn in the 18th c. by the English (in England)

Clog and pattenmakers Company dates back to medieval times, But it is not
clear what type of clogs these were. In 1731 the shoemakes guild of Carlisle
ordered the discharge of Thomas Scot 'a man that makes women pattons Clogs'
but who was not a brother og the Guild or freeman of the city, from making
'Leather Cloggs for Women for that it is belonging to the Shoemakers
trade....'

1790 Ann Wheeler quotes an Appleby school boy as saying ' we wur twoa lile
lads et hed tae coe et a smiddy, tae hev our new clogs cakert an
snoutbandit'

1704 an attempt to export clogs to America

1714 clogger buried at Penrith

There is loads more, and it suggests a great number of clogs being worn in
Cumberland and northwards in the 18th

There is evidence for earlier cloggs too.

see clogs or wooden soled shoes Evelyn Vigeon

Mel

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:07:03 -0500
Status: RO



Leonardo de Caprio IS really, really small. Did you happen to see "The Man
in the Iron Mask"? I did (unfortunately), and every man in it looked huge
compared with him.

A woman's size 2 or a size 4 generally fits a young teen. As someone (sorry,
I erased it) said, some adult women really do fit in those sizes and look
like adult women. But most women who buy their clothes from the teen rack
are WAY too skinny.

I read an interview with Sarah Michelle Gellar ("Buffy the Vampire Slayer")
that quoted her as saying women shouldn't try to look like TV actresses,
because they are all on special diets and have personal trainers to look the
way they look. I think poor SMG is way too skinny now -- she was cute and
round in the first season of "Buffy," and was probably still skinny by
normal standards.

Gail Finke




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From: " Sarah Goodman" <lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 06:15:26 +0800
Status: RO


-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:12:55 -0500 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses


> On Mon, 14 Jan 2002, A F Murphy wrote:
> > Remember, it depends on the original real build of the woman. There 
> > really and truly are women designed by nature to be a size 2. Not 
> > many... but they do exist, with womanly figures, looking lovely, not 
> > skinny. You don't even really notice how small they are until you try to 
> > fit them.

I'm not attacking anyone here, just making some personal observations, but why is it the automatic assumption for people to judge a woman who is a size 2 as being "skinny", "unhealthy", "disgusting", etc. without knowing the exact nature of why the person is that small?  Like, speaking from my own experience as being a size two, I'm bombarded on a daily basis from other people who think that my pants size is a legitimate reason to harp about why I don't understand what it's like to have to be conscious of my eating, how I'm unhealthy or "too perfect", etc. 

Here's the deal.  I'm no 5'8, 100 lb supermodel.  I'm barely this side of 5 feet tall and proportionally, if you were to blow me up to the standard female height of 5'4-5'6, I'd weigh about 135 lbs and wear a solid size 8.  Yeah, that's still small, but that's within the acceptible range of smallness.  Being a size 2 is not socially acceptible to talk about and I get dirty looks when I try to make this statement.  If I were to flip this statement around and say that I was overweight and the subject of ridicule from my co-workers, people would be outraged on my behalf.  But not so if I say I'm 100 lbs and the subject of office ridicule.  The double standard is pretty ridiculous.  It's more ridiculous that it's even an issue at all... Everyone is built differently, blah blah blah. :)

Sarah

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:10:48 -0000
Status: RO

>Ah, but you forget. They don't *have* really hot days in the UK anywhere
near the frequency or extremity that we do, so they haven't had occasion
to discover that iced tea is the perfect drink for multiweek stretches of
90-degree days.


Oh yes we do (stamp of foot) we had at least three sunny days this summer 

Mel

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From: "Parsla Liepa" <pliepa@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1730-1770s furtrapper garb
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:09:03 -0500
Status: RO

Wow!  Thanks, Mara!  Not only for the quick response, but also for the 
wealth of information contained within your response!  I know -absolutely 
nothing- of this ilk, as it is Not My Period, so looks like I've got lots of 
reading ahead of me.
  Parsla


>From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
>
>Why is it that all 'Vousers want to do Scottish?  <g>
>
>This is one of the best sites on the web about 18th c. clothing:
>http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/
>
>You can find patterns for a lot of this sort of thing on the web at
>http://www.jpryan.com/ -- she's got a 'basic women's kit' pattern that is
>pretty good and gets you the basic wardrobe.
>
>Here's my site -- but a word of warning: there's little/no evidence that
>Scotswomen (or Scotsmen) retained significantly Scottish costume elements
>once they made it to the New World.  My site is geared toward people
>reenacting the battle of Culloden etc., in Scotland, not toward the Fur
>Trapper crowd:
>http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Scotland2.htm
>http://www47.pair.com/lindo/18thCWomen.htm
>
>I've never seen any evidence that Scotswomen wore blue knit Scots bonnets
>(tams) in the Colonies.
>
>If she's going for accuracy, she should avoid calico "prairie" style camp
>dresses, etc., which are typically more appropriate for 19th century
>reenacting.
>
>There's also a yahoo group for French and Indian War women reenactors,
>which she might find helpful:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FandIWomen/
>
>Cheers,
>Mara
>
>
>On Mon, 14 Jan 2002, Parsla Liepa wrote:
>
> >
> > Hello, dear list!
> >
> > A friend of mine in another state happened to mention to me offhand that 
>she
> > is starting to play with a Rendezvous re-creation group, timeframe
> > 1730-1770.  She would like her persona to be a lady furtrapper, of 
>Scottish
> > origin.  She's got a birthday coming up, and I'd like to make for her 
>some
> > basics for her kit..... a bonnet, apron, etc.
> >
> > Can anyone recommend any good, basic books, websites, patterns, to get 
>me
> > started?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >   Parsla
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clogs
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:52:48 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


The buckle type (both with a "bar" and the type I've seen called 
a "monk's shoe") are older than the lace up types.  However, I don't
think you can stretch either of those earlier than 1700 or so.  The
slip on type at the very bottom of Walkey's catalogue page is a modern
adaptation, so is the caterer's clog with a heel strap.  Both those
forms show up on the continent, but the only slip ons like that I've
seen in english shoes are pattens made to go over fancier shoes.

Slip ons that have a heel counter can be made with leather or wooden
uppers (in which case they're more akin to sabot or scandinavian clogs).
If anyone has done research on the earlier types of shoe in england, sing
out.  My knowledge has a big gap between pampooties and similar soft 
shoes to the mid 1700s.  I know that you didn't get close-fitting clogs
until there were right and left lasts.  That's mostly important because
you don't seen the more complicated forms of stepdancing until you get
shoes that will stay on your feet for steps more complicated than stomping.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
:wq
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Sizes
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:41:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

My daughter & I love to shop together, just to see the
look on the sales lady's face when we ask to see what
she has in size 2 and size 28!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Sizes
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:42:34 -0600
Status: RO

I used to be a size 3, until I quit smoking and had 3 more babies. I'm five
feet tall, with a very small frame. I looked GOOD. Wish I still looked like
that. I'm working on it!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 4:07 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Sizes


>
>
> Leonardo de Caprio IS really, really small. Did you happen to see "The Man
> in the Iron Mask"? I did (unfortunately), and every man in it looked huge
> compared with him.
>
> A woman's size 2 or a size 4 generally fits a young teen. As someone
(sorry,
> I erased it) said, some adult women really do fit in those sizes and look
> like adult women. But most women who buy their clothes from the teen rack
> are WAY too skinny.
>
> I read an interview with Sarah Michelle Gellar ("Buffy the Vampire
Slayer")
> that quoted her as saying women shouldn't try to look like TV actresses,
> because they are all on special diets and have personal trainers to look
the
> way they look. I think poor SMG is way too skinny now -- she was cute and
> round in the first season of "Buffy," and was probably still skinny by
> normal standards.
>
> Gail Finke
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:46:34 -0000
Status: RO


> 
> Oh yes we do (stamp of foot) we had at least three sunny 
> days this summer 
> Mel
> 

But at least three sunny days do not equal weeks of consecutive days over 100 degrees, which is why I enjoy my iced peppermint tea here in Kansas.  <smile>  I would give anything to live in a milder clime where hot tea were always the best choice!
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:05:29 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


>Walkleys are pretty good but I recently found a page with a list of
>traditional cloggers in the UK some of which make their own soles (rather
>than machine them ) It is a work I think so I'll try & post it on Monday

That would be this page:
http://www.apriori.net/~paz/buyclog.html

I put out the Walkley's page because none of the traditional clogmakers
has _photos_ of their work on their pages.  I've bought from Walter Hurst
and Trefor Owen before.  Trefor definitely does historical types, though
I'm not sure how far back he goes.  I know someone local who has a pair
of 1860s reproduction clogs (he used to dance for Horwich Prize Medal).
His clogs were made by Trefor.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:56:20 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hi all,

I have lurked on this list for quite a while and have
found it to be a wonderful source of information, so I
thought I would come out and introduce myself. 
So...I've been sewing for about a decade and am
currently in the middle of FIDM's (Fashion Institute
of Design and Merchandising) Theatre Costume Design
program.  

My main focus is 18th century women's dress, but I 
also love Burgundian and am recently getting into
Tudor and Elizabethan dress.  I run a small historical
costuming company, mostly working with local theater
groups.

So this leads me to my question... I need to make a
farthingale for an Elizabethan gown.  The problem is
that I need to make it FAST (it's for a performance
Thursday night).  I don't have time to order hoop
steel from the place I usually get it, so I am
wondering if any of you know of a good substitute for
hoop steel that can be found at a hardware store or
similar place.  It doesn't need to be authentic, nor
particularly durable (this will probably be a one time
use piece), it just needs to give the proper
silhouette.  Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

Michelle....the frazzled

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 23:01:56 -0000
Status: RO

>That would be this page:
http://www.apriori.net/~paz/buyclog.html

Yes it was down when I tried yesterday & today

>I put out the Walkley's page because none of the traditional clogmakers
has _photos_ of their work on their pages.  I've bought from Walter Hurst
and Trefor Owen before.  Trefor definitely does historical types, though
I'm not sure how far back he goes.  I know someone local who has a pair
of 1860s reproduction clogs (he used to dance for Horwich Prize Medal).
His clogs were made by Trefor.

I was hoping to get some from Trefor, as yet I've not found exactly what,
have you any pictures for circa 1812 ? ladies ? By any chance ?

Mel



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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:15:33 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
[about clogs]
> 'primitive' lifestyle with insufficient research.  Personally they make my 
> feet hurt (and their more form fitted descendents, the birkenstocks are even 
> worse (for me).

Actually, clogs in the 1700-1900 eras were fitted for the wearer's foot.
The method I've been told was to carve the outline of the sole out, then
have the wearer put on a leather sock, have them step on a bed of coals
with that foot, then immediately place their (very hot) foot on the clog
footbed.  The footbed was then carved out to match the shape of the wearer's
foot.  Since this is no longer done, _now_ we have foot problems wearing
them.  Even the clogmakers who still hand-carve their footbeds don't do
arch supports anymore.  This could go a long way towards explaining why
every single clog dancer I know has foot problems.  I took my pairs to
the podiatrist and had a high-tech version of custom-fitted footbed rigged
out with foam padding.

Back to that "insufficient research" bit, I guess...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 23:03:28 -0000
Status: RO

>But at least three sunny days do not equal weeks of consecutive days over
100 degrees,

really ? you must mean the old fashioned F things cause that is boiling
water here ;)

>which is why I enjoy my iced peppermint tea here in Kansas.  <smile>  I
would give anything to live in a milder clime where hot tea were always the
best choice!

Naw it is definatly NOT all it is cracked up to be I plan to retire to
France SW or S soon....

Mel


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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:16:44 -0500
Status: RO

Hi,
	I could use some help from the more experienced folk here.
I'm working on a high-waisted skirt that will be hook &
eye'd to the bodice. I've never done something that fit like
this, so I'm wondering about the waist height of the skirt.
Right now I've got a line of pins marking where the bodice
hits it. Before I cut off excess skirt waist (the bottom is
hemmed, the top is waiting), how high beneath the bodice
should the waist of the skirt go to connect with hooks &
eyes? I know it can't be an even meet because that would
allow for "gaposis". What is normal in these situations?
	Thanks,
	Judy Mitchell
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:15:11 -0600
Status: RO

Tons of congratulations and hugs Penny!!
You deserve it totaly!!

Katie

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Subject: [h-cost] Yes, that 12th Century harper is back w/another question!
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:20:30 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I have inherited enough very light-weight red wool to
make a calf-length short-sleeved over-tunic for my
growing 12th century wardrobe.  But something in my
wee brontosaurus brain is not 2000% positive that red
is an appropriate color - this color is sort of
"a-little-too-reddish-to-be-called-burgundy."

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and farthingale question
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:21:43 -0800
Status: RO

on 1/14/02 2:56 PM, Michelle Hain at mesmerism00@yahoo.com wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I have lurked on this list for quite a while and have
> found it to be a wonderful source of information, so I
> thought I would come out and introduce myself.
> So...I've been sewing for about a decade and am
> currently in the middle of FIDM's (Fashion Institute
> of Design and Merchandising) Theatre Costume Design
> program.  
> 
> My main focus is 18th century women's dress, but I
> also love Burgundian and am recently getting into
> Tudor and Elizabethan dress.  I run a small historical
> costuming company, mostly working with local theater
> groups.
> 
> So this leads me to my question... I need to make a
> farthingale for an Elizabethan gown.  The problem is
> that I need to make it FAST (it's for a performance
> Thursday night).  I don't have time to order hoop
> steel from the place I usually get it, so I am
> wondering if any of you know of a good substitute for
> hoop steel that can be found at a hardware store or
> similar place.  It doesn't need to be authentic, nor
> particularly durable (this will probably be a one time
> use piece), it just needs to give the proper
> silhouette.  Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Michelle....the frazzled

Okay, I'm plygging myself here... Try this out and see if it works for you:
http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate/homedepot.html

To see what sort of farthingale this makes, check this out:
http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate/alcegafarthing.html

Hope this helps!

Sarah

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 14 17:55:49 2002
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From: "Jamie Zdziarski" <jamie@thecoffeehouse.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Button Hook?
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:23:31 -0500
Status: RO

I really should read all my messages before replying LOL....anyhow I
would do that but I have no clue what my member name and password
is...and it's not accepting my email, so until I figure it out, my
question will have to wait LOL.....

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Maggie Secara
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 1:14 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Button Hook?

Elizabeth has set the list so it doesn't accept attachments.  Maybe
there's a
web site you can post them on, or you could pop onto the Community Zero
"H-Costume Swap and Sell" http://www.communityzero.com/hcostume/ and
post it
there.  (Make sure you mark it not for sale, unless you want to sell it
:)



MaggiRos



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
> Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 7:53 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Button Hook?
>
>
> Love to see the images, but your attachments didn't arrive.
>
> Jamie Zdziarski writes, in a message sent 09:24 PM 1/13/02 -0500:
> >
> >
> >Hi!  I'm usually just a lurker, but I came across this tool in a huge
> >bag of costume jewelry that I obtained from a flea market.  My first
> >thought was of a button hook for Victorian high button shoes, I did a
> >search on Ebay, in which I found a few button hooks but were a lot
more
> >detailed and most made of silver.  So can anyone confirm that this is
> >indeed a button hook? I attached 2 pictures of it, it is severely
rusted
> >but has a beautiful design on the handle if anyone knows how I may
> >remove the rust with out damaging the pattern, please let me know.
> >Thanks for your help!
> >
> >Jamie Z.
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 14 17:57:14 2002
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clogs
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:46:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


>I was hoping to get some from Trefor, as yet I've not found exactly what,
>have you any pictures for circa 1812 ? ladies ? By any chance ?

I'm a stepdancer, so I'm more worried about being able to dance in my
clogs than how period they are. ;}  Most stepdancers buy lace-up uppers
with "duck toes", that is, the toe turns up sharply at about a 45 degree
angle and the soles are lighter.  From what I've been able to find, the
common lady's clog, at least in Lancashire, was the bar clog, which for
americans looks like a Mary Jane shoe with a wooden sole.  A lot of modern
stepdancers wear mary janes with taps on them instead of clogs since they're
easier and cheaper to get these days.  A couple of cloggers from Yorkshire
thought my partner and I were crazy for wearing clogs _with irons_.  

I've begun to suspect that the very high tempos used for West Moorland
and Cumbria styles of stepdance have more to do with the switch to lighter
shoes than any real regional difference.  The Cape Breton and Quebecois 
dancers on this continent have noticed similar rising tempos, pushed by
competitions and lighter shoes.  Even the old hobnail soled shoes that 
were more common for irish dance are _much_ heavier than the shoes used
now.  So one has to wonder what the real historical style looked and 
sounded like.  Lancashire and Durham clog seem to have kept their slower
tempos, possibly because the steps are much too complicated to push up
to ridiculous speeds.  

Ah, last thing.  If you really want to be a stickler for historical looks,
you need to buy your clogs with irons on the bottoms.  This may not be
practical if you intend to ever wear your clogs in someone's home or on
a wooden stage.  The irons look rather like pony shoes and do the same
type of damage.  Rubber bottoms retain some of the same look without the
destructive possibilities.  It also deadens the sound some, which many 
would consider a plus.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hemp (word useage)
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:31:48 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:55 PM 1/13/02 -0800, you wrote:
>So where did you get this cloth?  Inquiring minds want to know.
>
>Also, I'm told that hemp so resembles linen that in some cases it can be
>mistaken for it.  This has led to some mis-interpretations and
>mis-attributions by museums, or so I am told.
>
     Not exactly a mis-interpretation.  Through much of history the word
linen did NOT specifically mean fabric woven from flax.  In fact the type of
linen reffered to frequently in the 18th century as Russian, or sometimes
russian drill is believed to be made from hemp.  

                Two  sources showing this (accoriding  to Bryan Howard's HAD
ON HIM  are Rolt, Richard A NEW DICTIONARY OF TRADE AND COMMERCE, London
(1761) and THE APPLICATION of the MONEY GRANTED by PARLIMENT in the YEARS
1765, to the DUBLIN SOCIETY, for the ENCOURAGEMENT of CERTAIN TRADES and
MANAFACTURES.  . His quotes of Postlethwayt (1774)in which he states of
linen "There are a variety of sorts, the cheif materials of which are
cotten, flax and hemp".  Rolt (1761) apparently also says all three of these
fabrics are linen

     In fact I have not seen reference to Hemp as a cloth name until very
recently (my life time) although it was used as a source fiber for linen for
centuries.  Of course, having said that,  a quick perusal of the OED for
modern usage does not show the word being used to describe hemp today, and
goes so far as to Correct Johnson's dictionary!  Johnson says that linen is
"Cloth of flax or Hemp" and the Oed believes that Johnson is "mistakenly
quoting loose useage".    This is a common sort of mistake I have seen in
the OED (which is why one source of documentation is never good).  They will
occasionally insist their modern useage is the correct (over in this case
both Johnson and at least Postlethwayt writing within the period) and some
times they will document their definition to an earlier date than is
documentable by their quote.

        Two examples.   1. Whitesmith.  OED states that a whitesmith either
works with tin, or with iron or steel the finished product being polished
white.  They give a pre my 1770 reference which amounts to something like
"There was a white smith in the town".  I do not remember
the actual quote or year, and am to lazy to go back up and pull it out
again.  Importance being that the definition WAS not
documentable by the sentence, just that the word was in use.  The
blacksmith's at work insist that in the third quarter of the 18th
century only the second definition was in use.  So, I asked them how they
knew that to be true.  The blacksmith's pulled adds listing the
products sold by whitesmiths, all of which were iron and steel.

                                        2.  Lunch.  I had been taught that
lunch was a nineteenth century abbreiviation of luncheon, a rather new word
on its                 own.  The OED on the other hand shows lunch, meaning
a mid day meal, and gives a 13th century (if I recall correctly) example.
The                 example was "Ate a lunch of cheese".  Now at work the
food ways department claims that a lunch is a small amount that may be eaten
in hand.  I have no idea if they have documentation fo that, I have not seen
reference to the word being used in the 18th century (save
the OED references) and have not asked for them for it (I do not use the
word at work since I know it was at least uncommon).  My only
point is that if foodways is right, you can see that the definition give
could mean either.  The person either ate lunch consisting of
cheese, or ate a small amount of cheese, dont really know which do we....

Anyway, enough wordsmithing,

Cheers,

  
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:24:34 +1300
Status: RO

> Some time ago I asked the list about US vs. UK sizes and was told they
were, in theory, the same. BUT the smallest woman's size sold in the UK is
an 8, so I can't imagine what these 2s and 4s are like!

I just bought yesterday a stunning coat/skirt set: Christopher Lai (who is?)
in a size 6 US.
Now that doesn't mean anything by itself, but it does have other sizes:
UK 8 (10 NZ I think, and it makes sense, 10NZ was a model size when I was
reading Sweet valley high, and the twins were "model size" 6US)
FRA 38
EUR 36

Does france have smaller inches than everyone else??? I am assuming that's
what the 36/38 is.. bust or hip measurement though? I'm assuming hip as I am
36 bust and 39 hip, and the skirt is too tight but the coat fits perfectly
(perfectly matched houndstooth and check pattern too)-I am small up top with
a big bum.

I know NZ has increased their sizes, they are now comparable to AUS, where
before our 10s were their 8s- so I always felt beter in Aussie sizes;)

And I am made to feel grotesquely overweight by the industry, the only roles
I used to get were covered from neck to toe in layers of ragged material-
and far in the background. I did get down to a real size 10NZ (34, 28, 36
approx) and suddenly got much more 'attractive' roles- and back at the size
I am now (12NZ) I'm at the very limit of acceptability, and not for
featuring.

I am 5'7", and don't go by weight at all. 120lbs would be terribly
underweight  yet for other women my height it looks great. Bone stucture,
weight distribution, musculature... and then measurements can be misleading
too...

michaela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1730-1770s furtrapper garb
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:33:07 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 1/14/2002 5:36:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
pliepa@hotmail.com writes:


> Wow!  Thanks, Mara!  Not only for the quick response, but also for the 
> wealth of information contained within your response! 

Yes...great web sites.

I worked on "Last of the Mohicans" and, though not completely accurate, I did 
learn that most trappers, being out in the wilderness, living off the land, 
so to speak, adopted many Native American habits and garments. After all, 
they worked for these people for centuries. You may want to investigate some 
tribal garments [like breechclouts]. Many of the trappers and guides in the 
film were dressed in a mixture of Indian and Western things....and the 
western wear [justicorps, shirts,  sleeved waistcoats] were made from Indian 
materials and decorated with Indian craftsmanship.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/14/2002 5:36:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, pliepa@hotmail.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Wow! &nbsp;Thanks, Mara! &nbsp;Not only for the quick response, but also for the 
<BR>wealth of information contained within your response! </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Yes...great web sites.
<BR>
<BR>I worked on "Last of the Mohicans" and, though not completely accurate, I did learn that most trappers, being out in the wilderness, living off the land, so to speak, adopted many Native American habits and garments. After all, they worked for these people for centuries. You may want to investigate some tribal garments [like breechclouts]. Many of the trappers and guides in the film were dressed in a mixture of Indian and Western things....and the western wear [justicorps, shirts, &nbsp;sleeved waistcoats] were made from Indian materials and decorated with Indian craftsmanship.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Size 0
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:33:37 -0600
Status: RO



Mara wrote:

 
> That would be my youngest sister, who is actually (if such a thing exists)
> a Size 0.  She's recently begun weightlifting and has consequently put on
> a few pounds, so she weighs 105 lbs (at about 5'6").  She's quite strong,
> actually, in a wiry way, and eats a very healthy diet.  Wish I had her
> metabolism...  Anyway, she can't find clothes that fit, except in the
> petite section -- but then the jacket sleeves are too short, and the
> skirts are so short she looks like Ally McBeal (which is not what she
> wants).  Good thing she can sew.
> 
> 

I can vouche for the Size 0.  Before I got pregnant w/my daughter, the
only place I could get jeans was in the Jr's department and they had
to be "longs". I am about 5'5", and back then was lucky to get to 100
lbs dispite what I ate.  While I was pregnant I got up to 130, and
still had skinny arms and legs.  Picture if you will a stick figure
with a "snowman's" body. *LOL*

After I had her I dropped down to about 100 lbs, and went to
The 5-7-9 Shop for jeans that were size 0.  Then we moved to Germany
and the beer and brautwierst took me up to 150.  Now I hover around
130 and wear a size 12 jeans. Everyone says "you aren't fat", but
when you consider what I used to see in the mirror I still can't
look at myself in the full length mirror in the bathroom. *LOL*

Katie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:47:57 -0500
Status: RO

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As far as the sizing issue goes, the collectors had their next-door =
neighbor (who is a curvy size 4) try on the "jump" dress. It was a =
perfect fit. So it wasn't a "vanity" size four, but it fit a person who =
is truly a standard size 4 (if there is such a thing as a standard =
anymore!). At any rate, recall that Kate Winslet wore a corset beneath =
the gown, while this little petite lady just put the dress on over her =
regular underthings. That makes me think Winslet is probably around a 6 =
or even an 8 -- then got squeezed down by the corset.

:-)

Cheers,
Jennie

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>As far as the sizing issue goes, the =
collectors had
their next-door neighbor (who is a curvy size 4) try on the "jump" =
dress. It was
a perfect fit. So it wasn't a "vanity" size four, but it fit a person =
who is
truly a standard size 4 (if there is such a thing as a standard =
anymore!). At
any rate, recall that Kate Winslet wore a corset beneath the gown, while =
this
little petite lady just put the dress on over her regular underthings. =
That
makes me think Winslet is probably around a 6 or even an 8 -- then got =
squeezed
down by the corset.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>:-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Cheers,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jennie</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - =
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From: Katie <nejma@tds.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yes, that 12th Century harper is back w/another question!
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:55:29 -0600
Status: RO

Here is a list of what plants/bugs where used and what color they
produced.

http://www.florilegium.org/files/TEXTILES/dye-list-art.html

I found a yahoo group the other day that deals with the actual
dyeing process, I know it it exsist cause I went there
to look up a recipe for Brazil wood.  Let me hunt it down again.
But if I remember correctly the hue depends on the time of the
wool in the dye bath.

Katie

Joan Garner wrote:

> I have inherited enough very light-weight red wool to
> make a calf-length short-sleeved over-tunic for my
> growing 12th century wardrobe.  But something in my
> wee brontosaurus brain is not 2000% positive that red
> is an appropriate color - this color is sort of
> "a-little-too-reddish-to-be-called-burgundy."
> 
> Iohanna the Harper
> [Joan Hall]
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> 
> __________________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and farthingale question
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:12:04 -0700
Status: RO

Since you are in LA, call over to AlterYears in Pasadena. They will fix
you up. Phone # is on their web site, http://www.alteryears.com

Hope this helps,

MD/Marged
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From: Crissy <sewinggoddess@att.net>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:08:46 -0500
Status: RO

Try at your local home improvement store ( Lowe's,  Home Depot, etc,)
for the steel strapping tape that they use to hold the large bundles of
wood or fence sections together. Ususally free if you just ask the guy
on duty in that area. Don't forget the duck tape to tape the pieces
together!

Good luck!
Crissy

Michelle Hain wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have lurked on this list for quite a while and have
> found it to be a wonderful source of information, so I
> thought I would come out and introduce myself.
> So...I've been sewing for about a decade and am
> currently in the middle of FIDM's (Fashion Institute
> of Design and Merchandising) Theatre Costume Design
> program.
>
> My main focus is 18th century women's dress, but I
> also love Burgundian and am recently getting into
> Tudor and Elizabethan dress.  I run a small historical
> costuming company, mostly working with local theater
> groups.
>
> So this leads me to my question... I need to make a
> farthingale for an Elizabethan gown.  The problem is
> that I need to make it FAST (it's for a performance
> Thursday night).  I don't have time to order hoop
> steel from the place I usually get it, so I am
> wondering if any of you know of a good substitute for
> hoop steel that can be found at a hardware store or
> similar place.  It doesn't need to be authentic, nor
> particularly durable (this will probably be a one time
> use piece), it just needs to give the proper
> silhouette.  Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Michelle....the frazzled
>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:08:26 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 14/1/02 5:36:00 PM, nejma@tds.net writes:
<< Everyone says "you aren't fat", but when you consider what I used to see 
in the mirror I still can't look at myself in the full length mirror in the 
bathroom. >>

Isn't body/self image wonderful? I weighed 285, dropped down to 115 (with a 
lot of walking and watching what I ate) had 2 kids and am currently at about 
160 aiming for about 130 or 135, ya know I still see the 285 pound blob in 
the mirror and I was a major blob at that point. What I can't seem to 
understand is where the clothing manufacturers get their size charts. I have 
3 pair of Lee jeans, bought the same day by different people at the same 
store. All are size 12, one pair is huge (too long too wide etc) on me (they 
are my once a month jeans), one pair I can just put on and wear, the third 
pair are the ones I wear on "good ass days". If I try to get them on on an 
off day I have to do the lay down with pliers and breathe IN! They are all 
the same style, size, cut and number. Identical on the tags, not in the 
wearing. Who dreams these things up. I used to wear Wranglers when I was 
growing up and it didn't matter, I could just tell my mom to pick me up a new 
pair of jeans and they'd fit. Now I have to try on every single pair, I don't 
even think of myself as one size or another, just whatever fits. Is it me or 
have the jeans manufacturers gone whakka whakka?
Confusedly,
Lady G
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:08:29 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


---  Sarah Goodman <lithiate@earthlink.net> wrote:
  Being a size 2 is not socially
> acceptible to talk about and I get dirty looks when
> I try to make this statement.  

If I didn't have a size 2 daughter in her 30's, I'd
probably be one of the people giving the dirty looks. 
It can easily feel brutally unfair that some people
don't have to constantly diet!  I never ever get to
just relax and eat what I want and after 15 months of
dieting and losing 80+ pounds, I am still considered
by most people too fat to be attractive.  However, my
daughter has sensitized me -- I see the dirty looks my
poor baby gets and I know that she doesn't
binge-and-purge or starve or anything like that. 
She's just naturally the size she is.  It's just
cosmically unfair that she's naturally the size we're
"supposed to be" and I'm naturally a socially
unacceptable size!!

Note the theme here:  "unfair."  However, a very
non-musical but slender friend pointed out to me that
she would love to be able to sing but has a horrible
voice (sad but true!).  Although she's very supportive
and comes to my concerts, recitals, bought the cd,
etc. she feels that sting of "it's not fair" about my
voice every bit as much as I feel it about her size.

I guess the answer is to somehow build a world where
it's ok to just be the size you are.  Then we size
28's won't feel bitter & angry that you're a size 2
because we won't be torturing ourselves with hunger!!

Well, I'm going to get off this soap box and go lie
down with a damp cloth on my forehead!  (Actually I'm
going to pour another cup of coffe & get back to
work.)

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"


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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:11:17 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. If you are doing reenactment or RenFaire where you might be close to
open flames, I always recommend 100% natural fabrics. The nice thing about
the Internet is that you can find great deals on just about any fabric
(even silks and linens). You will get a different look from brushed denim
than wool, but if your group allows it, then that is up to them and their
costume standards. As was mentioned before, denim is short for Serge de
Nimes. Although serge as a name is a worsted woolen twill, the name denim
was only associated with a cotton twill in the 1770s (in the black or blue
color that we associate it with today). fustian is a linen warp (for
strength, I suppose), and a cotton weft. It can also be a wool/cotton
fabric, and the cotton in this fabric is usually napped using the
supplementary weft compound weaving method (the kind used on corduroy,
where the weft floats are trimmed to create a pile or nappy surface like
that of prepared wool). An inexpensive alternative to fustian is a material
used in theater called Duvetyne. It comes in many colors, and is usually
fire treated, so it needs to be washed before wearing (I assume, though,
that everyone washes their fabric before making anything). To the best of
my knowledge, it is 100% cotton, though, and rips easily either across
(from selvedge to selvedge) or up and down when stressed, so it may not be
suitable for clothing. Good Luck, Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yes, that 12th Century harper is back w/another question!
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:17:01 -0600
Status: RO

Found it!!

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA_NaturalDyes/

on the "look for a group" page it says it is a
public list...but when I went to it there was no
option for posting.

Katie

Joan Garner wrote:

> I have inherited enough very light-weight red wool to
> make a calf-length short-sleeved over-tunic for my
> growing 12th century wardrobe.  But something in my
> wee brontosaurus brain is not 2000% positive that red
> is an appropriate color - this color is sort of
> "a-little-too-reddish-to-be-called-burgundy."
> 
> Iohanna the Harper
> [Joan Hall]
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exciting News!!!!
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:16:20 -0500
Status: RO

At 03:49 AM 01/10/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello Everyone,
>
>Some VERY exciting things are about to happen in the next couple of weeks.
>So I am going to jump right into it and let you know....  My BIG BREAK is
>about to happen!!!!! (so sorry to those who receive this several times)

Congratulations, and good luck!

-- Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hemp (WAS: Web sites that sell fabrics suitable for 
 costuming)
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:18:54 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. I have used hemp on a number of projects. My 16th Cent. doublet
is interlined with it, I have a pair of sailors breeches made from it, and
we have a number of bags for carrying our gear made from it. It is very
much like linen canvas (the strands of hemp, flax and nettle are virtually
indistinguishable by the eye, and almost completely so even with a
microscope). I also have a modern shirt made from it, and it is wonderful
to feel against the skin, and it wears in better than when it starts. The
straps on a variety of packbaskets that I have are made from it, and my
wife has knitted a few items from yarn made from it. Great stuff!  Mike T.




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Size 0
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:24:08 -0500
Status: RO

I am SO happy to hear from you!!!    No one understands why, when I look at
the sagging belly I have post-hysterectomy,  and the 30+ pounds I have
gained in the last few years of life,  WHY I have a slight problem with
thinking about my weight!  It isn't a big thing - I know when I was 113 lbs
at 5'8" that I was far too thin.  I know I'm not fat, just abdominally
challenged,  but I too have to laugh/wince when I look in the mirror.

And of course, all my clothes fit much differently, so I have to keep making
more, right?
Rowena

> > That would be my youngest sister, who is actually (if such a thing
exists)
> > a Size 0.  She's recently begun weightlifting and has consequently put
on
> > a few pounds, so she weighs 105 lbs (at about 5'6").  She's quite
strong,
> > actually, in a wiry way, and eats a very healthy diet.  Wish I had her
> > metabolism...  Anyway, she can't find clothes that fit, except in the
> > petite section -- but then the jacket sleeves are too short, and the
> > skirts are so short she looks like Ally McBeal (which is not what she
> > wants).  Good thing she can sew.
>
> I can vouche for the Size 0.  Before I got pregnant w/my daughter, the
> only place I could get jeans was in the Jr's department and they had
> to be "longs". I am about 5'5", and back then was lucky to get to 100
> lbs dispite what I ate.  While I was pregnant I got up to 130, and
> still had skinny arms and legs.  Picture if you will a stick figure
> with a "snowman's" body. *LOL*
>
> After I had her I dropped down to about 100 lbs, and went to
> The 5-7-9 Shop for jeans that were size 0.  Then we moved to Germany
> and the beer and brautwierst took me up to 150.  Now I hover around
> 130 and wear a size 12 jeans. Everyone says "you aren't fat", but
> when you consider what I used to see in the mirror I still can't
> look at myself in the full length mirror in the bathroom. *LOL*


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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:43:49 -0500
Status: RO

    You might wish to check out our extensive array of historical sewing
patterns at http://www.5rivers.org

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yes, that 12th Century harper is back w/another question!
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:43:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Thank you, thank you, thank you!  My
reddish-burgundy-ish wool is "justified."  I have some
green-and-reddish-burgundy geometric trim that is a
really good match...if only I didn't have to waste
perfectly good sewing time earning a living!!!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

--- Katie <nejma@tds.net> wrote:
> Here is a list of what plants/bugs where used and
> what color they
> produced.
> 
>
http://www.florilegium.org/files/TEXTILES/dye-list-art.html


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Subject: [h-cost] !3th Century Highland questions...
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:12:53 -0600
Status: RO

Ok, here's a question that I suspect all you good folk will be able to 
answer for me without blinking an eye.  It seems such a basic question, but 
I can't for the life of my find the right answer anywhere I look...

I'm looking at doing garb that is somewhat accurate for a 13th century 
highlander.  (those of you who'll see me at !@th night, just please 
disregard the great playd, I know, it's not "it"...)

I can't help thinking about how cold it can get in Scotland in Winter and 
I'm not too sure what would have been done for Winter garb that would 
protect from cold.  I have seen references to "moggans", some cloth wrapped 
around the legs.  I suspect they'd also do something about shoes/boots, but 
not sure what.

I'd love to get any and all information possible on this.  I'd rather have 
more info than less.  Also, pushing my luck, I'll say that if anyone has 
*pictures* of what would be accurate recreations, that would be 
great.  Obviously, not only surviving pictures are impossible, but period 
pictures at all were, well...  not quite possible...  But surely *someone* 
somewhere, has pictures of garb that would appear to be accurate.  Reason 
I'm asking for this is that I'm doing *much* better when I can actually see 
something rather than have it described at length in texts...

Thanks y'all.

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:05:08 -0500
Status: RO

My daughter is one of those "naturally thin" people, but she's not a
size 0 anymore.  She teaches dance (tap, jazz, modern, ballet, lyrical,
supported adagio) part time and at 5'5" I don't know what she weighs,
but she's got a 24" waist and is a 34DD (the reason she's not a size 0
anymore)
She gets WAY more attention than she'd like because of her breasts, and
they make her angry, because she's a dancer. (She HAD a promising career
until she grew breasts.  Dancers are "supposed" to be androgynous.
Also, if she had a dollar for every time she said "I'm a dancer" and
people assumed "stripper" she'd have her house paid for.)  So basically,
she wears baggy sweaters and looks 20 lbs heavier than she is.

Jeanne


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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:57:07 -0800
Status: RO


> What I can't seem to 
> understand is where the clothing manufacturers get their size charts. I have 
> 3 pair of Lee jeans, bought the same day by different people at the same 
> store. All are size 12, one pair is huge (too long too wide etc) on me (they 
> are my once a month jeans), one pair I can just put on and wear, the third 
> pair are the ones I wear on "good ass days". If I try to get them on on an 
> off day I have to do the lay down with pliers and breathe IN! They are all 
> the same style, size, cut and number. Identical on the tags, not in the 
> wearing. Who dreams these things up.

This sounds weird. While each style can be a different size 
(depending on how much ease they go for with that style) it is 
pretty unusual for the same style to be different sizes. It sounds 
like they had some new stitchers and quality control was not doing 
its job!

Most of the time, when the sizes are weird it is because they are 
trying to make women feel like they are smaller than they are. (So 
that they can brag "I *only* wear a 6", for instance.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Real Pearls?
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:22:30 -0800
Status: RO


Look at the area surround the hole.  If it looks bubbled, deformed or like
it flowed, then it's glass or plastic.  If you can see peeling paint, then
it could be something like "Fish scale" or painted glass "pearls".
--cin 

> --- Alexandria Doyle <dragonlair@wireweb.net> wrote:
> > How does one tell if a strand of pearls are real or
> > glass pearls?  
> 
> Real pearls (including cultured) feel slightly gritty
> against the teeth.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] !3th Century Highland questions...
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:34:29 -0600
Status: RO

Not sure how much this will help...but

http://www.medievalscotland.org/clothing/scotmen.shtml

Katie

Gorgeous Muiredach wrote:

> Ok, here's a question that I suspect all you good folk will be able to 
> answer for me without blinking an eye.  It seems such a basic question, 
> but I can't for the life of my find the right answer anywhere I look...
> 
> I'm looking at doing garb that is somewhat accurate for a 13th century 
> highlander.  (those of you who'll see me at !@th night, just please 
> disregard the great playd, I know, it's not "it"...)
> 
> I can't help thinking about how cold it can get in Scotland in Winter 
> and I'm not too sure what would have been done for Winter garb that 
> would protect from cold.  I have seen references to "moggans", some 
> cloth wrapped around the legs.  I suspect they'd also do something about 
> shoes/boots, but not sure what.
> 
> I'd love to get any and all information possible on this.  I'd rather 
> have more info than less.  Also, pushing my luck, I'll say that if 
> anyone has *pictures* of what would be accurate recreations, that would 
> be great.  Obviously, not only surviving pictures are impossible, but 
> period pictures at all were, well...  not quite possible...  But surely 
> *someone* somewhere, has pictures of garb that would appear to be 
> accurate.  Reason I'm asking for this is that I'm doing *much* better 
> when I can actually see something rather than have it described at 
> length in texts...
> 
> Thanks y'all.
> 
> Gorgeous Muiredach
> Rokkehealden Shire
> Middle Kingdom
> aka
> Nicolas Steenhout
> "You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:31:09 -0600
Status: RO



Sarah Goodman wrote:

>
>And speaking for the short people here... I can go anywhere from a size 4 to a size 0, depending upon where I'm shopping.  All I want is a designer who doesn't believe that all size 2 jeans should have a 32" inseam.  As if.
>
Back in "the old days", when I was 31-24-33, I still had to wear a size 
5.  Apparently, my hips were too wide for those teeny sizes (and at the 
low end, an inch or two makes a big difference).  

But, even as a short person, I don't mind the longer inseam.  If I tried 
to wear petite pants, they would stop above my ankles; I'm really 
disproportionate - long arms and legs, *extremely* short waisted (even 
so-called petite-sized jackets are always too long on the body, and too 
short in the arms).

In many ways, it's much easier to find clothes now that I've bulked up 
from 95 lbs. to 150 and a size 14.  At least the pants aren't usually 
too short . . .

a different Karen

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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hemp (WAS: Web sites that sell fabrics suitable
  for  costuming)
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 21:25:21 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:18 PM 1/14/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi, All. I have used hemp on a number of projects. My 16th Cent. doublet
>is interlined with it, I have a pair of sailors breeches made from it, and
>we have a number of bags for carrying our gear made from it. It is very
>much like linen canvas (the strands of hemp, flax and nettle are virtually
>indistinguishable by the eye, and almost completely so even with a
>microscope). I also have a modern shirt made from it, and it is wonderful
>to feel against the skin, and it wears in better than when it starts. The
>straps on a variety of packbaskets that I have are made from it, and my
>wife has knitted a few items from yarn made from it. Great stuff!  Mike T.
>


        What period is the sailing stuff?  I am very interested in 16th
century sailing and volunteer on a vessel just out of that period (Susan
Constant early 17th).

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Size 0
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:32:18 -0800
Status: RO

  
> > That would be my youngest sister, who is actually (if such a thing exists)
> > a Size 0.  She's recently begun weightlifting and has consequently put on
> > a few pounds, so she weighs 105 lbs (at about 5'6").  She's quite strong,
> > actually, in a wiry way, and eats a very healthy diet.  Wish I had her
> > metabolism...  Anyway, she can't find clothes that fit, except in the
> > petite section -- but then the jacket sleeves are too short, and the
> > skirts are so short she looks like Ally McBeal (which is not what she
> > wants).  Good thing she can sew.

There are a number of stores which carry size 0. Many are 
"petites" but not all of them are. Petite Sophisticates and it's non-
petite part of the chain carry size 0 and the styles are adult, not 
child. (Rather than 0-3-5-7-9+, they go 0-2-4-6-8+. The odd number 
sizes tend to be more teen/petite proportion with the even number 
sizes more adult.)

There are also several boutique stores which cater to the smaller 
women.

When I was at the size 0 stage, they didn't have even 5-7-9 shops 
even for teenage clothes. The dress I did my medical school 
admissions interview in was from the girls department, because it 
was the only way I could get a dress which didn't hang like a sack 
on me. (Those were the 5'4", 100# days that are a thing of the 
past, thank God. Thank God for fertility drugs which actually gave 
me an adult figure, but not until I was 38 years of age.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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 at "Jan 13, 2002 07:43:09 pm"
To: h-costume@indra.com
CC: LadyGryphon@aol.co, Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT:mold
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 03:36:35 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

> From: LadyGryphon@aol.com
> Yes, it's ergot but that gets (mostly) on rye rather than wheat, both the 
> grain and bread and it's not killed by heat/light. The mold in this case 
> causes-hallucinations, respiratory failure, memory loss, skin eruptions, 
> convulsions and other nasties including death. There's nothing currently on 
> the market that will kill it or even eradicate it for any length of time. 
> Thus the only thing TO do is either remove all contaminated items and destroy 
> them or if the infestation is too far involved for it to be "fixable"-destroy 
> the entire house and contents. That's what we fear the most. Destruction of 
> all our tangible memories and other things that cannot be replaced at any 
> cost. I mean how can money replace the chair that my umpteen great 
> grandfather hand made (and rubbed a jillion coats of beeswax into) all those 
> years ago, photographs of my great grandparents on their wedding day, the 
> quilt my grandmother made for me while my mother was preggers with me and 
> dozens of other like items. We're all in shock.

Then for heaven's sake get another opinion!
I have never heard of any form of mold being treated like erverything
was irreplacably contaminated. (But I may not have heard everything).
Recently, there were Anthrax mailings in the US mail and even reached Congress. 
Anthrax spores, too, are hard to kill. Yet, did they burn down Congress? 
Remember you have to inhale 10,000 Anthrax spores to catch the disease, and it 
does not spread by human contact. I think the same goes for mold. I learned 
about ergot (Mutterkorn) as a kid. It is caused by the fungus Claviceps purpurea.
It likes to grow in rye grains, especially when the weather is particularly wet.
Yes, it happened in former centuries. People would catch ergotism from
eating contaminated bread in periods of starvation. The symptoms do not
really look like "going crazy", rather like general forms of poisoning
(drowsiness, vomiting, fever, hallucinations). The worst form would be 
ergotismus gangraenosus, which was explained to me like your arms 
and legs rotting away while you're alive. You have to eat quite a lot
of ergot to catch ergotism. Yes, you have to _eat_ it; it doesn't spread 
just by contact (or so I was told). 
What do museums do? How do they clean off mold from important cultural
items? Eager to hear more,
Barbara Maren
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References: <B868A807.1C9%lithiate@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and farthingale question
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:15:34 -0600
Status: RO

I'm working on one of these farthingales myself, using the plastic tubing.
I'll let you know how it works for me!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sarah Lorriane" <lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and farthingale question


> on 1/14/02 2:56 PM, Michelle Hain at mesmerism00@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I have lurked on this list for quite a while and have
> > found it to be a wonderful source of information, so I
> > thought I would come out and introduce myself.
> > So...I've been sewing for about a decade and am
> > currently in the middle of FIDM's (Fashion Institute
> > of Design and Merchandising) Theatre Costume Design
> > program.
> >
> > My main focus is 18th century women's dress, but I
> > also love Burgundian and am recently getting into
> > Tudor and Elizabethan dress.  I run a small historical
> > costuming company, mostly working with local theater
> > groups.
> >
> > So this leads me to my question... I need to make a
> > farthingale for an Elizabethan gown.  The problem is
> > that I need to make it FAST (it's for a performance
> > Thursday night).  I don't have time to order hoop
> > steel from the place I usually get it, so I am
> > wondering if any of you know of a good substitute for
> > hoop steel that can be found at a hardware store or
> > similar place.  It doesn't need to be authentic, nor
> > particularly durable (this will probably be a one time
> > use piece), it just needs to give the proper
> > silhouette.  Any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Michelle....the frazzled
>
> Okay, I'm plygging myself here... Try this out and see if it works for
you:
> http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate/homedepot.html
>
> To see what sort of farthingale this makes, check this out:
> http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate/alcegafarthing.html
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> Sarah
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 02:09:10
Status: RO

Well, I've always considered myself short, even though I got comparatively 
taller when I moved from Ohio to Texas. What annoys me are the clothing 
lines where the size 8P pants has the same inseam as the size 12P!

Mary/Katerine
> >
> > >No kidding!  My size ranges from 22 to 28 depending on
> > >the manufacturer.
> >
> > And I'm anywhere from a 10 to a 16.
> >
>
>And speaking for the short people here... I can go anywhere from a size 4 
>to a size 0, depending upon where I'm shopping.  All I want is a designer 
>who doesn't believe that all size 2 jeans should have a 32" inseam.  As if.
>
>--
>
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 14 21:22:01 2002
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From: Crissy <sewinggoddess@att.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Jeans dilemma answered
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:26:33 -0500
Status: RO

 I used to work in a garment factory, so let me explain what happens.  This is
the classic example of what happens when the Cutter of said garments in the
factory isn't accurate.   When the fabrics are stacked for cutting multiple
layers at once, if the Cutter angles the cutting knives *in* towards the seam
allowances, the bottom garment pieces are much smaller than the ones on top or
even in the middle, even though they're all technically the same size.   OR , the
Cutters cut off some seam allowances, OR even cut the garment slightly bigger
than the permanent pattern.     All of this can be the reasons why that same pair
of jeans , bought in the same store, by three different people in the same style
and size can have such a discrepancy in fit.
    I hope this helps explain the mystery a little.

Crissy

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 14/1/02 5:36:00 PM, nejma@tds.net writes:
> << Everyone says "you aren't fat", but when you consider what I used to see
> in the mirror I still can't look at myself in the full length mirror in the
> bathroom. >>
>
> Isn't body/self image wonderful? I weighed 285, dropped down to 115 (with a
> lot of walking and watching what I ate) had 2 kids and am currently at about
> 160 aiming for about 130 or 135, ya know I still see the 285 pound blob in
> the mirror and I was a major blob at that point. What I can't seem to
> understand is where the clothing manufacturers get their size charts. I have
> 3 pair of Lee jeans, bought the same day by different people at the same
> store. All are size 12, one pair is huge (too long too wide etc) on me (they
> are my once a month jeans), one pair I can just put on and wear, the third
> pair are the ones I wear on "good ass days". If I try to get them on on an
> off day I have to do the lay down with pliers and breathe IN! They are all
> the same style, size, cut and number. Identical on the tags, not in the
> wearing. Who dreams these things up. I used to wear Wranglers when I was
> growing up and it didn't matter, I could just tell my mom to pick me up a new
> pair of jeans and they'd fit. Now I have to try on every single pair, I don't
> even think of myself as one size or another, just whatever fits. Is it me or
> have the jeans manufacturers gone whakka whakka?
> Confusedly,
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tab A into Slot B
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:47:21 -0800
Status: RO

The trick is to make a sleeve that would otherwise fit into the armhole if
you did sew it in all the way around, then only sew it in part way around.
That way when your arm is down it looks like it is sewn in all the way.
Finish all unsewn edges any way that looks nice - a facing, a hem, blind
stitch outside and lining, of each piece, together with raw edges inside,
whatever.

>I am currently working on an outfit that calls for a
>sewn in sleeve.  Well, at least partially.  The sleeve
>is sewn into the bodice except for the bottom portion
>which is left open for extra movement and ventilation.
>
>Now, my question is how to go about doing this so it
>looks right and lays smoothly?  
>
>Would I finish the sleeve off first and then sew just
>half of it into the arms eye or would I sew the
>unfinished sleeve into the arms eye half way and then
>finish off the remainder of the sleeve separately?
>
>That's about as clear as mud I should think.
>
>Thank you.
>
>Ghislaine
>
>__________________________________________________
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Kayta
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 21:10:18 -0600
Status: RO

Thanks for the lead.  Saddly, I've looked at most of Sharon's site through 
and through, and she's one of the ones that I often can't figure what she 
means...  Not something on her part, just my problem with translating some 
text into images...  I haven't seen that she addresses winter clothing at 
all either, but that may be a figment of my failing memory right now...

Incidentally, I haven't seen my original post show up.  Is there such a 
setting that doesn't sent your own mails back to you?  If so, does anyone 
know how to change that?

Thanks

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 14 21:54:11 2002
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:26:24 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 14/1/02 8:57:12 PM, sewinggoddess@att.net writes:
<< All of this can be the reasons why that same pair of jeans , bought in the 
same store, by three different people in the same style and size can have 
such a discrepancy in fit. >>

I knew the cutting process so I'm wondering-is this just certain 
manufacturers? I know it's more cost effective and the most logical way to 
cut out that many pair of jeans at a time. I can still wear Wranglers without 
trying them on and/or Levi's 501's or 505's, Lee's and Lee Riders seem to be 
the worst at sizing. I wear anything from a 10 to a 14 depending on what it 
is and who made it. I wear a 12 at 160, at 130 I wear a 7/8, Katie at 130 
wears a 12, she said she's 5'5", I'm 5'6.5". There's not that much difference 
in our height. 
Any clue?
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT:mold
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:29:02 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 14/1/02 8:56:17 PM, barbara@math.tu-berlin.de writes:

<< Then for heaven's sake get another opinion! I have never heard of any form 
of mold being treated like erverything was irreplacably contaminated.  >>

I'm answering this with an attachment sent off list. Anyone who wants a copy 
of the attachment just ask.
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 03:32:22 GMT
Status: RO

On Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:04:12 EST, the following was written in this
electric book by LalahTT@aol.com:

>In a message dated 1/14/02 5:10:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 
>writes:
>> 
>> There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.  What a horrid idea to 
>> drink your tea *cold*..... <shudder!>
>
>       If you haven't tried it, don't knock it.  Nothing beats a tall glass 
>of ice tea with lemon on a really hot day.

And here's a little anecdote from my grandmother, who grew up in the
midwest of the US during the depression. She recalls that 'Grandpa'
(an elderly veteran of the Civil War) used to drink what all the
children thought was 'hot water'. Only later, when she was older and
was introduced to hot tea outside the home, did she realize that he
had been the lone drinker of hot cups of tea in the large, extended
family - all the rest of whom drank iced sweetened tea, in the
southern manner.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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References: <200201121656.g0CGuMt19819@net.indra.com> from "h-costume-request@indra.com" at "Jan 12, 2002  9:56:22 am" <200201140827.JAA01855@mx01.uni-tuebingen.de>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:42:58 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. The stoneware body (gray) with the blue glaze was typical of a
type of stoneware imported around Europe from the Westerwald (Rhine
Provinces) in the late 16th and 17th cents. There was also a brown
mottled version known as Frechen or Seigburg ware. The Frechen style
includes the ubiquitous "Bartmannkruge" or, in the English usage,
Bellarmines. The name came from the bearded visage usually found on the
bottles, said to resemble Cardinal Bellarmino, a staunch
Counter-Reformationist, although jugs of this type predate his birth by
about 50 years. In terms of costume content, if you are looking at Dutch
genre paintings of the late 16th and through the 17th Cents., such as
Clara Peeters, van Ryck and Vermeer, you will occasionally see variants
of these types of stoneware along with the clothing of the period that
they represent. Mike T.



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Subject: [h-cost] Body Double
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:53:18 -0500
Status: RO

Hello, all. just a quick request. Sometime ago there was a post that included a
URL to a site that gave instructions on how to create a body double with duct
tape, etc. If anyone can direct me there, I would appreciate the assistance.
Thanks, Mike T.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 23:24:48 -0500
Status: RO

Yep...
I'm skinny, not because I tried but because I'm like that, and I'm size 1...
Used to wear size 4, was closer to what I think I should be. I have very
narrow shoulders and very delicate bones, and short waist. In fact I think I
wouldn't look so skinny if I could build up some muscle in my arms, that
would make a difference :-)

----- Original Message -----
From: "A F Murphy" <afmmurphy@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses


> Remember, it depends on the original real build of the woman. There
> really and truly are women designed by nature to be a size 2. Not
> many... but they do exist, with womanly figures, looking lovely, not
> skinny. You don't even really notice how small they are until you try to
> fit them.
>
> The ones we think of are the women designed by nature to be a size 8,
> who are starving themselves down to squeeze into a 4. That's not pretty,
> but it is encouraged in the industry, for many reasons. I've never seen
> Winslett in person, let alone fit her, so I have no idea what her build
> is like, but it certainly sounds as if this was natural for her.
>
>
> The performers I meet who are really struggling are dancers. They build
> up muscle around their hips and legs, and then "look hippy" and feel
> fat. At a size 8... without an extra ounce of fat on their bodies!
>
> Then, there are also women who are equally truly designed to be a 12 or
> a 14, without any extra padding. I understand that, because, if I were
> thin, I'd be a 14. My wrists hang out of a 12... But many of these
> women, in the business, either give up and become/stay heavy, because no
> one will accept their real build, but they can get work if they aren't
> expecting to be ingenues, or else they try to starve themselves down to
> a 10. They really look like scarecrows...
>
> Lots of pressure on all, and almost all coming from people who look at
> numbers, and don't really *look* at the bodies.
>
> Anne
>
>
>
> Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >But I am shocked to find that it is a size 4! I am not one of the strange
> >people who thought Kate Winslett looked FAT in the movie. I thought she
> >looked great, like a normal human being rather than one of those too-thin
> >Hollywood actresses. (I read an interview once with an actress who said
that
> >every woman in Hollywood was a size 2 or 4). I know that film makes
people
> >look fatter, but still, I wouldn't have guessed less than a 6.
> >
> >Gail Finke
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:37:08 -0500
Status: RO

>  > What I can't seem to
>>  understand is where the clothing manufacturers get their size charts. I have
>>  3 pair of Lee jeans, bought the same day by different people at the same
>>  store. All are size 12, one pair is huge (too long too wide etc) on me (they
>>  are my once a month jeans), one pair I can just put on and wear, the third
>>  pair are the ones I wear on "good ass days". If I try to get them on on an
>>  off day I have to do the lay down with pliers and breathe IN! They are all
>>  the same style, size, cut and number. Identical on the tags, not in the
>>  wearing. Who dreams these things up.

Kat:
>This sounds weird. While each style can be a different size
>(depending on how much ease they go for with that style) it is
>pretty unusual for the same style to be different sizes. It sounds
>like they had some new stitchers and quality control was not doing
>its job!

That's apparently not so unusual. There was a report in the paper 
(Boston Globe) several years ago documenting this phenomenon- it 
happened in all price ranges and through a variety of brands. Many 
supposedly identical pairs were measured, and there were differences 
of inches among them.

-Amanda
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 23:33:23 -0500
Status: RO

Yeah, my size ranges from "the smallest size has 2 inches extra in the
waist" to size 3, depending on the manufacturer...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan Garner" <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses


>
> --- Margo@margospatterns.com wrote:
> But American sizing
> > isn't standardized at ALL.
>
> No kidding!  My size ranges from 22 to 28 depending on
> the manufacturer.
>
> Iohanna the Harper
> [m.k.a. Joan Hall]
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
>
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:44:30 -0600
Status: RO

thanks for all the suggestions.  I think they may be glass pearls,
maybe... I tried the against the teeth and couldn't tell the difference
between a set of real pearls, a set of plastic pearls and this one
necklace.  There is however some irregularities around the holes.  It
could be from a drill that was clamped down too tight, or it could be
the "fish scale"  other than that, these are very nice pearls with  a
great weight to them, not light like the obviously false ones.  
I feel better about my plan to rework this necklace into a belt for my
Elizabethan's, rather than cutting up a definitely good pearl necklace
for the project.  I'm going to go a beaded chained with the pearls and
red glass beads.  I have just enough to make it around my waist.  I'll
need to make a buckle/pendent for center front point, then I think a
thin strip of embroidery on velvet with a tassel or another ordonment on
the end.

Alexandria

Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> Look at the area surround the hole.  If it looks bubbled, deformed or like
> it flowed, then it's glass or plastic.  If you can see peeling paint, then
> it could be something like "Fish scale" or painted glass "pearls".
> --cin
> 
> > --- Alexandria Doyle <dragonlair@wireweb.net> wrote:
> > > How does one tell if a strand of pearls are real or
> > > glass pearls?
> >
> > Real pearls (including cultured) feel slightly gritty
> > against the teeth.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:45:09 -0800
Status: RO

on 1/14/02 8:33 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin at audreybmorin@yahoo.com wrote:

> Yeah, my size ranges from "the smallest size has 2 inches extra in the
> waist" to size 3, depending on the manufacturer...
> 

Same here.  For instance: A size 0 jeans at Abercrombie & Fitch fits me like
a size 2 Gap jeans.  Except, the size 2 Gap has a reasonable inseam of about
27 inches, where the A&F size 0 has the 32" inseam.  That's just two well
known clothing manufacturers who sell to the same age group
(twenty-somethings).  Things get much more complicated when you factor in
Levi's sizing (apparently, a size 26 is far too small for me and a size 28,
the next size up, is way too big).  As it is, I stick with Gap, despite my
moral issues with the company, because they're the only comercial
manufacturer that has enough consistency with their product in my size
range. And their jeans just fit so well and last forever...

My smallest size was a 00, which can only be found at 5-7-9.  I was really
sick at the time, though.  Don't ever want to go back to looking like a
waif... I'm healthy now and happy about it. :)

Sarah

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT:mold
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:39:20 -0800
Status: RO

>I learned 
>about ergot (Mutterkorn) as a kid. It is caused by the fungus Claviceps 
>purpurea.
>It likes to grow in rye grains, especially when the weather is particularly 
>wet.

Doesn't LSD derive from ergot, or at least, isn't it related chemically?,
asked the former Hippie?  A former LSD-user, of my acquaintance, told me
that was the case.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and farthingale question
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:54:37 -0800
Status: RO

You could use the slats from a roll-up bamboo blind if you were making a
conical mid-1500's one.  If you need a large roll farthingale, like 1580's,
use an inner tube.  They're the right size and shape, they're light-weight,
and they're real cheap if you go to a place where they fix tube-type tires
and tell them you need something for kids to play with in the pool.  I did
this and, after asking me a couple of times if I was never going to use it
in a car tire, the guy got an old one and even patched it for me - it held
air well enough to work, at maybe 10 pounds pressure.

>So this leads me to my question... I need to make a
>farthingale for an Elizabethan gown.  The problem is
>that I need to make it FAST (it's for a performance
>Thursday night).  I don't have time to order hoop
>steel from the place I usually get it, so I am
>wondering if any of you know of a good substitute for
>hoop steel that can be found at a hardware store or
>similar place.  It doesn't need to be authentic, nor
>particularly durable (this will probably be a one time
>use piece), it just needs to give the proper
>silhouette.  Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Michelle....the frazzled
>
>__________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:56:58 -0800
Status: RO

>Thanks for posting those pictures and the text! Isn't it amazing what a
>difference having a PERSON in clothes makes? The jump dress looks a bit
>dowdy hanging by itself, but it looked great on Kate Winslett.

Posted?  Where?

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:33:07 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:14 AM -0800 1/14/02, Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:
>  This is compounded by "vanity sizing", in which
>sizes are labeled much, much smaller than average, to flatter rich ladies
>and make them want to buy a size "4" that is really more like an 8 or 10.

My own gripe is that current clothing styles (especially jeans) don't 
seem to be made for _women_, they are made for telephone poles 
instead (which don't have hips).

I seem to recall hearing vaguely somewhere that American size 
numbering is sufficiently skewed that some incredible number like 70% 
of all women are at least one "size" bigger on the bottom than on the 
top. But of course, since the current "ideal" figure has hips that 
are the same meansurement as the bust or less, that is the figure 
things are designed for.

Or so I'd like to think, anyway, since it makes me feel better <g>!

The statistic I really enjoyed, though, made the rounds in newspaper 
clippings a few years back. Supposedly, someone measured a number of 
girls and young women in great detail, and then tried to see whether 
there were any body measurements that correlated with "intelligence" 
(actually, grade-point average). They found ONE correlation: the 
bigger the hips, the higher the GPA. <vbg>
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:03:31 +1100
Status: RO

Yep. That's right. There was a doco recently on Ergot poisoning on Aus TV.
They mentioned the LSD derivative there. The theory was that "Bewitchment"
in the Mediaeval times may have been Ergot poisoning. The symptoms are the
same, and it happened more in the Rye-growing areas. Next week, the same
series has a show on the Jamestown massacre, which I'm really looking
forward to - right up my alley.

Glenda.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT:mold


> >I learned
> >about ergot (Mutterkorn) as a kid. It is caused by the fungus Claviceps
> >purpurea.
> >It likes to grow in rye grains, especially when the weather is
particularly
> >wet.
>
> Doesn't LSD derive from ergot, or at least, isn't it related chemically?,
> asked the former Hippie?  A former LSD-user, of my acquaintance, told me
> that was the case.
>
> Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:14:50 +1100
Status: RO

Sarah wrote:
> My smallest size was a 00, which can only be found at 5-7-9.  I was really
> sick at the time, though.  Don't ever want to go back to looking like a
> waif... I'm healthy now and happy about it. :)
>
> Sarah
>
My goodness! If the American sizing keeps getting bigger, you'll be in
negative numbers!

Here in Australia, our size 8 fitted me when I was 45kg (100lb), which seems
like an equivalent of your size 0. Now the Chronic Fatigue (which isn't
conducive to exercise!) has got me to 72kg(160lb) I wear a 16. I hope that I
can get some weight off soon, and am aiming to get back to my after-babies
weight of 60-65kg (130-140lb), which will be a size 12. I'm eating properly,
but must find out how to exercise enough to lose weight without getting
over-fatigued (hey! maybe someone should invent costumercise - exercise
while you sew!).

Glenda.

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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 21:43:59 -0500
Status: RO

Thank you! I collect sources, because I never know what someone will ask 
me for later. I especially like the parasol sites.

Anne

Lavolta Press wrote:

>What's going on here is, I continually try to investigate every
>interesting link I see (on the web or in a print ad) related in some
>way to historic clothing. 
>



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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:24:37 -0700
Status: RO

Funny....I have the exact opposite problem of the orginal poster's
sister....I am (at the moment) a rather plus, plus size and average
height (5'5"), but I have really short arms and legs (height is all in
my torso). If I were a normal weight, I'd fit pretty nicely into a lot
of the petite stuff, but somehow manufacturers seem to think that the
larger you are around the taller you are....so everything's way too
long.  The worst offenders are things like sweaters, that I can't alter
the sleeves on....
So, I guess it's a challenge for those of us on either end of the size
bell-curve, huh?
Someday, I'd at least be able to buy off the rack....
--Sue (not bitching, thinking of it as a goal <g>)

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> 
> > > That would be my youngest sister, who is actually (if such a thing exists)
> > > a Size 0.  She's recently begun weightlifting and has consequently put on
> > > a few pounds, so she weighs 105 lbs (at about 5'6").  She's quite strong,
> > > actually, in a wiry way, and eats a very healthy diet.  Wish I had her
> > > metabolism...  Anyway, she can't find clothes that fit, except in the
> > > petite section -- but then the jacket sleeves are too short, and the
> > > skirts are so short she looks like Ally McBeal (which is not what she
> > > wants).  Good thing she can sew.
> 
> There are a number of stores which carry size 0. Many are
> "petites" but not all of them are. Petite Sophisticates and it's non-
> petite part of the chain carry size 0 and the styles are adult, not
> child. (Rather than 0-3-5-7-9+, they go 0-2-4-6-8+. The odd number
> sizes tend to be more teen/petite proportion with the even number
> sizes more adult.)
> 
> There are also several boutique stores which cater to the smaller
> women.
> 
> When I was at the size 0 stage, they didn't have even 5-7-9 shops
> even for teenage clothes. The dress I did my medical school
> admissions interview in was from the girls department, because it
> was the only way I could get a dress which didn't hang like a sack
> on me. (Those were the 5'4", 100# days that are a thing of the
> past, thank God. Thank God for fertility drugs which actually gave
> me an adult figure, but not until I was 38 years of age.)
> 
> Kat
> 
> Kat(June Russell)
> kat@grendal.rain.com
> Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:27:54 -0700
Status: RO

I do something pretty similar for the same sort of thing--sewing the
upper portion of the sleeve into the armscye as usual.  I then "finish"
the seam allowance on the sleeve and bodice parts that still aren't sewn
by treating it as a narrow double-fold hem.  I also unobtrusively
bar-tack across the points (the ends) of the opening.....Don't do any
angling, though, so I guess YMMV.
--Sue

Elizabeth Lear wrote:
> 
> On Mon, Jan 14, 2002 at 11:08:12AM -0800, Sidonia Ros wrote:
> > Would I finish the sleeve off first and then sew just
> > half of it into the arms eye or would I sew the
> > unfinished sleeve into the arms eye half way and then
> > finish off the remainder of the sleeve separately?
> 
> When I make a Ghawzee coat, I sew in the top half of the raw sleeve as
> if it were going in normally.  Then I finish the open edges and angle
> them into the seamed area for a smooth look.
> 
>                                 ...eliz
>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:40:57 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, tea, water, what more do you need?
--Sue (a colonial who seems to remember rumors of some sort of tea party
involving just those two things a while back <g>)

Jean Waddie wrote:
> 
> Drinking tea without milk is, I believe, some strange colonial custom.
> 
> JEan
> 
> Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com> wrote
> >>PGTips made using teabags
> >and the same spoon for stirring the tea and fishing out the teabag
> >as you used to get the granulated sugar from the bag
> >
> >UGH
> >
> >You''l be telling me next you don't warm the mug first & put milk in your
> >tea
> >
> >Lady Power (aka Mel)
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> --
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:44:18 -0700
Status: RO

Uh-huh, I agree with you there....we don't get humidity like some parts
of the country, but gawd it gets hot sometimes in the summer.  There's
just something amazingly refreshing about that combination of good
flavor, cold temps., and tannic acid.
--Sue (likes her iced tea with fresh mint and lots of ice cubes)

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 14 Jan 2002 LalahTT@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > > There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.  What a horrid idea to
> > > drink your tea *cold*..... <shudder!>
> >
> >        If you haven't tried it, don't knock it.  Nothing beats a tall glass
> > of ice tea with lemon on a really hot day.
> 
> Ah, but you forget. They don't *have* really hot days in the UK anywhere
> near the frequency or extremity that we do, so they haven't had occasion
> to discover that iced tea is the perfect drink for multiweek stretches of
> 90-degree days.
> 
> --Robin
> 
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:45:13 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, but how _warm_ did it get?
--Sue (where it's actually cold tonight, so thinking of a warm summer
day sounds pretty good)

Melanie Wilson wrote:
> 
> >Ah, but you forget. They don't *have* really hot days in the UK anywhere
> near the frequency or extremity that we do, so they haven't had occasion
> to discover that iced tea is the perfect drink for multiweek stretches of
> 90-degree days.
> 
> Oh yes we do (stamp of foot) we had at least three sunny days this summer
> 
> Mel
> 
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 21:32:45 -0800
Status: RO

I drink my tea iced whether it is Summer or Winter.  I also like iced
coffee.

Joan B.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches


>
> On Mon, 14 Jan 2002 LalahTT@aol.com wrote:
>
> > > There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.  What a horrid idea to
> > > drink your tea *cold*..... <shudder!>
> >
> >        If you haven't tried it, don't knock it.  Nothing beats a tall
glass
> > of ice tea with lemon on a really hot day.
>
> Ah, but you forget. They don't *have* really hot days in the UK anywhere
> near the frequency or extremity that we do, so they haven't had occasion
> to discover that iced tea is the perfect drink for multiweek stretches of
> 90-degree days.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 15 00:37:11 2002
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 01:05:03 -0500
Status: RO

Don't know. . . .I know I'm buying men's jeans-- I can get the low rise I
need, with the 32" inseam I also require.  Women's clothing insists that if
you are tall, you are proportionally tall.

Thus the reasons I make most of my own clothes. . . which also gives me the
excuse to copy various patterns from a multitude of time periods  :)

Lyn Greaves

** A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.


----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 11:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Sizes


> At 10:14 AM -0800 1/14/02, Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:
> >  This is compounded by "vanity sizing", in which
> >sizes are labeled much, much smaller than average, to flatter rich ladies
> >and make them want to buy a size "4" that is really more like an 8 or 10.
>
> My own gripe is that current clothing styles (especially jeans) don't
> seem to be made for _women_, they are made for telephone poles
> instead (which don't have hips).
>
> I seem to recall hearing vaguely somewhere that American size
> numbering is sufficiently skewed that some incredible number like 70%
> of all women are at least one "size" bigger on the bottom than on the
> top. But of course, since the current "ideal" figure has hips that
> are the same meansurement as the bust or less, that is the figure
> things are designed for.
>
> Or so I'd like to think, anyway, since it makes me feel better <g>!
>
> The statistic I really enjoyed, though, made the rounds in newspaper
> clippings a few years back. Supposedly, someone measured a number of
> girls and young women in great detail, and then tried to see whether
> there were any body measurements that correlated with "intelligence"
> (actually, grade-point average). They found ONE correlation: the
> bigger the hips, the higher the GPA. <vbg>
> --
> _________________________________________________________
> O    Chris Laning
> |     <claning@igc.org>
> +    Davis, California
> _________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] !3th Century Highland questions...
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 06:37:39 -0000
Status: RO

Might be worth checking out the 75 years group & archieves on yahoogroups we
concentrate on a period 13th c to early 14th. There are a few Scots there.
They might be able to help.

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clogs
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 06:47:56 -0000
Status: RO

>I'm a stepdancer, so I'm more worried about being able to dance in my
clogs than how period they are. ;}

Fair enough :)

>From what I've been able to find, the
common lady's clog, at least in Lancashire, was the bar clog, which for
americans looks like a Mary Jane shoe with a wooden sole.

So far few of the 19th C clogs I've see for sale in England are of this type
although I had the same impression, which seems odd (all the wrong sizes of
course !)

  >A couple of cloggers from Yorkshire
thought my partner and I were crazy for wearing clogs _with irons_.

Why ? I've seen plenty of clog dncers with irons

>switch to lighter
shoes than any real regional difference.  The Cape Breton and Quebecois
dancers on this continent have noticed similar rising tempos, pushed by
competitions and lighter shoes.

You mean with the wood change or the iron change ?

>So one has to wonder what the real historical style looked and
sounded like

I've seen a few older clogs, and they don't seem much heaviery than my
farmers clogs (walkleys) at least not as I noticed , I'll look out for the
differance more in future :)

>Ah, last thing.  If you really want to be a stickler for historical looks,
you need to buy your clogs with irons on the bottoms.  <snip>Rubber bottoms
retain some of the same look without the
destructive possibilities.

I'd not wear rubber by choice, my everyday clogs have rubber as on ice they
are better, but not for historical use generally. I'm not wanting to buy
clogs that are close, but have some made which are nearly 'exactly' right
All my family habitually wear clogs leather upper & full wood type so I'm
very happy in them ! All else fails I'll make the uppers myself.

On instep support, I think you should consider the evidence present where
hay, grass, moss, heather etc are stuffed into shoes for warmth this could
also be used for support, however I'd also note I have a very high instep,
but prefer barefeet to shoes when possible & have no problems in clogs or
turn shoes offering no support, I think modern feet then to be lazy in this
way if such a thing is possible :)

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 15 01:23:09 2002
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@home.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Body Double
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 01:59:35 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Mike!

Try this:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/index.asp
Type in 'dress form' into the search window, it will bring up a bunch of
related pages.

Here's another one:
http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/

Hope this helps!  I just made one of these a couple of months ago with the
help of my sister.  It went well, but I don't recommend trying to fill it
with expanding foam. (Ask me how I found this out!) I think a better choice
would be foam rubber, like cheap carpet padding, stuffed inside.  I don't
think newspapers are a  very good choice, due to the added weight and the
non-resiliency factor.  I've still got to get this part finished so that I
can use the thing.  (Ok, so I was a bit frustrated by the expanding foam....
I got _most_ of it off of the floor!)

Regards,

Linda

----- Original Message -----
From:
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 10:53 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Body Double


Hello, all. just a quick request. Sometime ago there was a post that
included a
URL to a site that gave instructions on how to create a body double with
duct
tape, etc. If anyone can direct me there, I would appreciate the assistance.
Thanks, Mike T.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 15 01:24:15 2002
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Body Double
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:56:29 -0800
Status: RO

If you go to www.google.com and search under dress forms, there are three 
different pages that have methods posted.

Jennifer


>From: leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Body Double
>Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:53:18 -0500
>
>Hello, all. just a quick request. Sometime ago there was a post that 
>included a
>URL to a site that gave instructions on how to create a body double with 
>duct
>tape, etc. If anyone can direct me there, I would appreciate the 
>assistance.
>Thanks, Mike T.
>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 23:03:40 -0800
Status: RO


>Yeah, tea, water, what more do you need?

Cups might be nice ;)

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 23:57:23 -0800
Status: RO

>I have never heard of any form of mold being treated like everything
>was irreplacably contaminated. 

I think this thread started when I said I could see mold marks on my
tankard.  What I meant was that mine was made in a 4+ piece mold, and that
I could see the little ridges where the pieces of that mold came together
imperfectly.  I'm American, not English, so my spelling may have thrown you
off.

Meanwhile, back on topic (I hope), when did the German potters start using
molds to create these raised designs?  How did they make them before they
used molds?  Were there press-molds in use before there were slip-casting
molds?  I suspect mine was slip-cast.  I know it wasn't wheel-thrown.  

Also, mine is from after 1945, because I noticed it says "Original Gerz
W.Germany (something indistinct)" on the bottom.

Kayta
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 00:56:57 -0800 (PST)
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"Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
[...] 
>   >A couple of cloggers from Yorkshire
> thought my partner and I were crazy for wearing clogs _with irons_.
> 
> Why ? I've seen plenty of clog dncers with irons

I should have been clear.  Stepdancers.  Clog morris is usually just
a rant step, so you're not propelling the shoe along at the same rate.
I can _do_ a rant step with shuffle inserted in all the empty spaces
in the music, but it's sure harder to do that in my pair that has irons
on them.  And the irons just don't bounce as well as plain wooden clogs
do.  And after I broke my own big toe trying to learn a particularly
evil Durham step, I've refrained from using the clogs with irons unless
I know the step backwards and forwards. ;}
 
> >switch to lighter
> shoes than any real regional difference.  The Cape Breton and Quebecois
> dancers on this continent have noticed similar rising tempos, pushed by
> competitions and lighter shoes.
> 
> You mean with the wood change or the iron change ?

Change from clogs with irons to plain wood soles, then to what are 
essentially tap shoes.  Lots of difference in weight between the three.

> >So one has to wonder what the real historical style looked and
> sounded like
> 
> I've seen a few older clogs, and they don't seem much heaviery than my
> farmers clogs (walkleys) at least not as I noticed , I'll look out for the
> differance more in future :)

Walkleys with irons _are_ heavier than the usual shoes used for stepdancing.
Among other things, the type of wood one uses for the platform makes a 
difference in both the weight and the sound.  Birch is preferred for dance
clogs, but if you get it wet, the wood will rapidly compress down on itself
and give a "dead" sound.  So they're not ideal for outdoor wear.  I know
Trefor Owen uses a couple different types of wood for his footbeds, and 
he chooses the wood based on what you're going to use the clogs for.  

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Clogs...OT.
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:42:47 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > I don't recall at this point where I heard the story, but there was
> > a thing about someone who was growing up in the area, and growing up
> > hearing the sounds of all the hundreds of factory girls clogs on the
> > cobblestones as they headed up to work in the morning.

".....and it was all clogs.  Clogs on cobbles.  Sometimes you 
couldn't even hear yourself coughing up 't blood....."

But that's from a comedy sketch by Victoria Wood that also 
includes the lines:  "I remember when pants really were pants.  You 
wore them for 15 years then cut them down for pan-scrubs.... Or 
Quilts.  We made some lovely quilts from old bloomers.  Every 
gusset a memory.  Not bras though, 'cos they won't lie flat you see. 
 We never wore bras around here until after the War.  And we used 
to make lovely rugs.  We used to stitch mice to bits of old 
sacking...."

But I digress.

Teddy


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, (clothing/pattern sizing)
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:46:53 +0000 (GMT)
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> > Some time ago I asked the list about US vs. UK sizes and was
> > told they were, in theory, the same. BUT the smallest woman's size
> > sold in the UK is an 8, so I can't imagine what these 2s and 4s are
> > like! 

> Well, my size 4 pattern sloper is 33" bust, 25" waist.  But
> American sizing isn't standardized at ALL.  Each manufacturer
> arrives at their own idea of what sizing should be.  This is
> compounded by "vanity sizing", in which sizes are labeled much,
> much smaller than average, to flatter rich ladies and make them
> want to buy a size "4" that is really more like an 8 or 10. Could
> this be what's happening here?  Because, if Kate Winslett is
> really that small,  Leo de Caprio must be really, really little. 

>From having fitted a very small friend for a bodice from Margo's 
Elizabethan pattern, the size 2 to 4 of Margo's pattern is about what 
I'd think of as a size 8 to 10 in England.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tab A into Slot B
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:56:14 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I am currently working on an outfit that calls for a
> sewn in sleeve.  Well, at least partially.  The sleeve
> is sewn into the bodice except for the bottom portion
> which is left open for extra movement and ventilation.
> 
> Now, my question is how to go about doing this so it
> looks right and lays smoothly?  

What I tend to do in these cases is finish the sleeve head and the 
armhole like they are seperate garments, then butt the two finished 
edges together and "ladder-stitch" them together along the areas 
there they need to be joined.

I'm sure other stitches could be used just as effectively but I like 
ladder-stitch and use it for almost everything where I don't want the 
stitching to show.  As a result I've become fairly quick and very neat 
at doing it even thought I *hate* hand sewing.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:58:03 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >  If you haven't tried it, don't knock it.  Nothing beats a  tall glass 
> > of ice tea with lemon on a really hot day.
> 
> Ah, but you forget. They don't *have* really hot days in the UK
> anywhere near the frequency or extremity that we do, so they
> haven't had occasion to discover that iced tea is the perfect drink
> for multiweek stretches of 90-degree days. 

<snortle!> 

Hey, Robin!

Are we back at the old "the weather in the UK doesn't get hot 
enough to warrent gowns made entirely of linen" argument 
again?....<G>

Teddy


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANOTHER farthingale question
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:19:57 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

While Michelle has raised the subject,

I need to make a farthingale fiarly quickly and with access to the 
minimum amount of steel boning (the usual place I get it won't 
havbe any in for a couple of weeks and I haven't time to shop 
around so I'm going to re-use stuff from an old 3-hoop "crinoline" I 
haven't used in years since I outgrew the dress it went under cut it 
up to make a Ren gown for a friend).

The farthingale is for a seven year old girl and needs to be able to 
get longer as she grows (I figure if I make the hoops to give the 
wider-coned silhouette at the current size, they can gradually 
reduce-in-proportion-to-her-height as she grows taller) and plan to 
put some tucks between each of the hoops that can be let down as 
she gains height and I let the hems of the skirts down.

What I need to do however, is sort out some sort of quick and easy 
pattern for a farthingale that will fit a seven to ten year old.

Any ideas and suggestions would be welcome and much 
appreciated....

Teddy
(leaving for Coronation nine days time, coming down with a cold 
and still with a mountain of sewing to get done beofre we go!)


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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:02:07 -0000
Status: RO

>I should have been clear.  Stepdancers.  Clog morris is usually just
a rant step,

Oh lor you've lost me now. What are the ones which do it on boards, usually
ladies just plain clog dancers ? Sorry the intericies of clog dancing is not
my specialty :)

>Change from clogs with irons to plain wood soles, then to what are
essentially tap shoes.  Lots of difference in weight between the three.

I imagine. Don't the tap shoe variety lose the traditional element of the
whole thing ?

>Walkleys with irons _are_ heavier than the usual shoes used for
stepdancing.
<snip>.  I know
Trefor Owen uses a couple different types of wood for his footbeds, and
he chooses the wood based on what you're going to use the clogs for.

Yes I noticed that I need ones which are very robust outdoors as that in the
main is where I wear them

mel

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References: <sc430c74.012@csv6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:41:20 -0000
Status: RO

Kate wrote:

> Some time ago I asked the list about US vs. UK sizes and was told they
were, in theory, the same. BUT the smallest woman's size sold in the UK is
an 8, so I can't imagine what these 2s and 4s are like!

Actually, there are designers who sell 6s and 4s; Amanda Wakeley is one of
them. They are small, but I've seen people who fit into them easily... This
doesn't usually include people from the USA, since English sizes are smaller
in practise, irrespective of the theory...
best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 03:49:57 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


"Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
> 
> >I should have been clear.  Stepdancers.  Clog morris is usually just
> a rant step,
> 
> Oh lor you've lost me now. What are the ones which do it on boards, usually
> ladies just plain clog dancers ? Sorry the intericies of clog dancing is not
> my specialty :)

Stepdancing is usually done on boards, yes.  But not just ladies, at least
from the folks I learned from.  Sam Sherry just died last year, but he 
was considered one of the best stepdancers from Lancashire.  He gave my
teacher a brief lesson which set _him_ off and running.

Clog morris is usually done for parades, and involves anywhere from
18 to 16 dancers and a brass band.  I'm told the modern descendant
is done by teams of teenage girls wearing what americans would think
of as cheerleader outfits, done to recorded music played over PA systems.
Not what I'd like to do, but the girls have an awsome amount of precision
in their formations.

> >Change from clogs with irons to plain wood soles, then to what are
> essentially tap shoes.  Lots of difference in weight between the three.
> 
> I imagine. Don't the tap shoe variety lose the traditional element of the
> whole thing ?

I'd say it's undergoing the same type of change that irish stepdance has.
If a tradition is to stay alive rather than becoming a museum piece, some
things do have to change.  Not all the change is positive, but it at least
keeps enough novelty in things to keep the style from going stale and dead.
Going from an inflexible sole shoe to a flexible one _also_ changes how
the dance steps are done.  So it's not just the weight issue.  I don't 
think that stepdancing will mutate as far as Carnival Morris has from
its roots, but at least some change is inevitable.  Groups of reinactors
like us hate to think about things like that, but it's what seperates a
living, breathing tradition from reinactment.  One is real life.  The 
other is a museum piece.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:01:32 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 15 Jan 2002, Teddy wrote:

> > Ah, but you forget. They don't *have* really hot days in the UK
> > anywhere near the frequency or extremity that we do, so they
> > haven't had occasion to discover that iced tea is the perfect drink
> > for multiweek stretches of 90-degree days. 
> 
> <snortle!> 
> 
> Hey, Robin!
> 
> Are we back at the old "the weather in the UK doesn't get hot 
> enough to warrent gowns made entirely of linen" argument 
> again?....<G>

Simply providing you folks with a convenient and reasonable explanation
for why you have not yet discovered the virtues of iced tea ... ;-)

On the other hand, I do wish we used demerara sugar in coffee here. It's
on every restaurant table in England, and cheap in the stores, but you can
only get it here at gourmet shops and at gourmet prices. (Hey Teddy, if
Danielle is still with you, tell her to slip a bag of demerara into her
luggage for me, if there's room. I'll see her in May.)

--Robin

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In a message dated 1/14/2002 4:10:58 AM Central Standard Time, 
teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:


> > Neither does one ice tea I believe they do in France however. Much
> > to my shame my son drinks iced tea, send him to France for 6 months
> > & he returns with such filthy habits ;) 
> 
> There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.  What a horrid idea to 
> drink your tea *cold*..... <shudder!>
> 

I know this is not costume related but I do have a funny. The first time we 
went to England our then 17 year old daughter went with us.  The first night 
we went to dinner my daughter ordered ice tea, the waiter without a pause 
said yes madam. DH and I, wanting to blend in, just ordered tea.  The dinner 
progressed and no iced tea appeared for DD.  Finally at the end of the dinner 
a tea pot was brought out that was slightly beaded with moisture, inside was 
tea that had evidently been hot when put into a freezer because now it was 
slightly on the cool side.  She never ordered iced tea again in England.  We 
also learned to enjoy room temp. soda pop as well.  
This was a few years ago.
On the costume front, I just received my Elizabethan patterns by Margo and 
can't wait to begin them.
Dianne in Dunlap, TN

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/14/2002 4:10:58 AM Central Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt; Neither does one ice tea I believe they do in France however. Much<BR>
&gt; to my shame my son drinks iced tea, send him to France for 6 months<BR>
&gt; &amp; he returns with such filthy habits ;) <BR>
<BR>
There I have to agree with Mel, I'm afraid.&nbsp; What a horrid idea to <BR>
drink your tea *cold*..... &lt;shudder!&gt;<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I know this is not costume related but I do have a funny. The first time we went to England our then 17 year old daughter went with us.&nbsp; The first night we went to dinner my daughter ordered ice tea, the waiter without a pause said yes madam. DH and I, wanting to blend in, just ordered tea.&nbsp; The dinner progressed and no iced tea appeared for DD.&nbsp; Finally at the end of the dinner a tea pot was brought out that was slightly beaded with moisture, inside was tea that had evidently been hot when put into a freezer because now it was slightly on the cool side.&nbsp; She never ordered iced tea again in England.&nbsp; We also learned to enjoy room temp. soda pop as well.&nbsp; <BR>
This was a few years ago.<BR>
On the costume front, I just received my Elizabethan patterns by Margo and can't wait to begin them.<BR>
Dianne in Dunlap, TN</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 06:40:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> Sarah wrote:
> My smallest size was a 00, which can only be found
> at 5-7-9.  I was really
> sick at the time, though.  Don't ever want to go
> back to looking like a
> waif... I'm healthy now and happy about it. :)
> Sarah

I, too, wear small sizes, a childrens' size 12, which
at 5'4" runs a little short in the legs and arms, and
at 21 years of age gets me more comments than I ever
wanted.  I have had to resort to wearing baggy cloths
at work so that my coworkers will stop commenting. 
And no, I do not look unhealthy, it simply stems from
have a smaller bone structure.
Margaret

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Subject: [h-cost] Drea's "superwide controversy" page
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:10:55 -0500
Status: RO


I'm trying to find a page that Drea wrote one, the proceedings from a 
Costume Symposium set sometime in the future, in which one of the featured 
talks was about how those silly kids managed to keep their pants up at the 
turn of the 21st Century.  I've not had any luck guessing at the URL for it, 
does someone have it bookmarked?

Parsla

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:21:50 +0000
Status: RO

Teddy's suggestion that US 2/4 = UK 8/10 sounds reasonable.

Karen wrote:
>>> 
>But, even as a short person, I don't mind the longer inseam.  If I tried 
>to wear petite pants, they would stop above my ankles; I'm really 
>disproportionate - long arms and legs, *extremely* short waisted (even 
>so-called petite-sized jackets are always too long on the body, and too 
>short in the arms).

I have exactly the opposite problem - a long waist and short legs! I'm 5'2" Petite tops are too small (because of my bone structure, not my bust size, which is minimal) while I have to search for the shortest trousers I can find. I stay skinny whatever I eat; personally I wouldn't mind a bit more flesh in the right places, but I find if I make a wry comment on my thinness, more well-endowed friends look askance, as though I were boasting of it.

Michaela asked "Does France have smaller inches than everyone else?" - well, no, they use metric! I've no idea where they get the figure 38 from.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:25:13 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


it's at:
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/superwides.htm

Enjoy!

Drea

On Tue, 15 Jan 2002, Parsla Liepa wrote:

>
> I'm trying to find a page that Drea wrote one, the proceedings from a
> Costume Symposium set sometime in the future, in which one of the featured
> talks was about how those silly kids managed to keep their pants up at the
> turn of the 21st Century.  I've not had any luck guessing at the URL for it,
> does someone have it bookmarked?
>
> Parsla
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Titanic dresses
In-Reply-To: <01ea01c19d60$adc9f680$536428cf@jeanne> "from Jeanne Harney at Jan
 14, 2002 08:05:08 pm"
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:21:15 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Your daughter is SO not alone there!  I get the
same thing from people when I say I used to be a dancer...
but it amuses me, and I wait for their expression to change as they
think about asking me "stripper...?" and then I interject "I mean,
I used to teach dance" and they get very embarrassed.  

I suppose if I really had been a stripper, I'd have a lot of those 
'dollars for every time' already in the bank ;)

.heather.meadows.


> My daughter is one of those "naturally thin" people, but she's not a
> size 0 anymore.  She teaches dance (tap, jazz, modern, ballet, lyrical,
> supported adagio) part time and at 5'5" I don't know what she weighs,
> but she's got a 24" waist and is a 34DD (the reason she's not a size 0
> anymore)
> She gets WAY more attention than she'd like because of her breasts, and
> they make her angry, because she's a dancer. (She HAD a promising career
> until she grew breasts.  Dancers are "supposed" to be androgynous.
> Also, if she had a dollar for every time she said "I'm a dancer" and
> people assumed "stripper" she'd have her house paid for.)  So basically,
> she wears baggy sweaters and looks 20 lbs heavier than she is.
> 
> Jeanne
> 
> 
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:20:48 -0800
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--=====================_1052640==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


Silly me. I got to the bottom of the page and saw "Notes on The Wrestling 
Laurels" automatically thought it was spoof paper on Laurels in the SCA.

At 10:25 AM 1/15/2002 -0500, you wrote:

>it's at:
>http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/superwides.htm
>
>Enjoy!
>
>Drea

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

--=====================_1052640==_.ALT
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<html>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica"><br>
Silly me. I got to the bottom of the page and saw &quot;Notes on The
Wrestling Laurels&quot; automatically thought it was spoof paper on
Laurels in the SCA.<br><br>
At 10:25 AM 1/15/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>it's at:<br>
<a href="http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/superwides.htm" eudora="autourl">http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/superwides.htm</a><br><br>
Enjoy!<br><br>
Drea<br>
</font></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica" color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font face="Arial, Helvetica">University of California, Davis
<br>
</font></b></html>

--=====================_1052640==_.ALT--

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jeans dilemma answered
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:30:13 -0500
Status: RO

part of it happens when they have someone new doing it.  When I worked in a
tropical wear factory, they often let people who were "trying out" cut/sew
the real thing, rather than having them try on something that wasn't going
out.  I don't know, but maybe Less and other big companies do this as well,
and maybe Levi and Wrangler have their newbies and interviews try out on
cheap stuff.
Moira
(still finding it funny that the tropical wear shop was in Massachusetts);-)

> I knew the cutting process so I'm wondering-is this just certain
> manufacturers? I know it's more cost effective and the most logical way to
> cut out that many pair of jeans at a time. I can still wear Wranglers
without
> trying them on and/or Levi's 501's or 505's, Lee's and Lee Riders seem to
be
> the worst at sizing. I wear anything from a 10 to a 14 depending on what
it
> is and who made it. I wear a 12 at 160, at 130 I wear a 7/8, Katie at 130
> wears a 12, she said she's 5'5", I'm 5'6.5". There's not that much
difference
> in our height.
> Any clue?
> Lady G


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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Alter Years (Was: farthingale question)
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:37:59 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I'm a little surprised to see a recommendation for
Alter Years for a "quick-fix" situation.  I don't
order from them any more because the few times that I
did, it tooks months to get my stuff, and even then it
wasn't always right.  Of course, the last time I tried
was at least a year or two ago.  Are they better now?

-Angela


--- Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>
wrote:
> Since you are in LA, call over to AlterYears in
> Pasadena. They will fix
> you up. Phone # is on their web site,
> http://www.alteryears.com
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> MD/Marged

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:43:15 +0000 (GMT)
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> On the other hand, I do wish we used demerara sugar in coffee here.
> It's on every restaurant table in England, and cheap in the stores,
> but you can only get it here at gourmet shops and at gourmet prices.
> (Hey Teddy, if Danielle is still with you, tell her to slip a bag of
> demerara into her luggage for me, if there's room. I'll see her in
> May.)

Will do - but since she arrived with *full* suitcases and only shifts 
by way of costume and intends to construct at least one Tudor 
ensemble by the time we set out for my coronation (Thursday 
morning next week) her homegoing luggage may already be a tad 
full....<G>

Teddy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Size 0
In-Reply-To: <3C432432.14816.5419A54@localhost> "from kat@grendal.rain.com at
 Jan 14, 2002 06:32:18 pm"
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:23:53 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I had a 5'5" size 0 roommate for a while, and she got all her
jeans from victoria's secret.  they fit her really well, and were surprisingly
well made.  

.heather.


>   
> > > That would be my youngest sister, who is actually (if such a thing exists)
> > > a Size 0.  She's recently begun weightlifting and has consequently put on
> > > a few pounds, so she weighs 105 lbs (at about 5'6").  She's quite strong,
> > > actually, in a wiry way, and eats a very healthy diet.  Wish I had her
> > > metabolism...  Anyway, she can't find clothes that fit, except in the
> > > petite section -- but then the jacket sleeves are too short, and the
> > > skirts are so short she looks like Ally McBeal (which is not what she
> > > wants).  Good thing she can sew.
> 
> There are a number of stores which carry size 0. Many are 
> "petites" but not all of them are. Petite Sophisticates and it's non-
> petite part of the chain carry size 0 and the styles are adult, not 
> child. (Rather than 0-3-5-7-9+, they go 0-2-4-6-8+. The odd number 
> sizes tend to be more teen/petite proportion with the even number 
> sizes more adult.)
> 
> There are also several boutique stores which cater to the smaller 
> women.
> 
> When I was at the size 0 stage, they didn't have even 5-7-9 shops 
> even for teenage clothes. The dress I did my medical school 
> admissions interview in was from the girls department, because it 
> was the only way I could get a dress which didn't hang like a sack 
> on me. (Those were the 5'4", 100# days that are a thing of the 
> past, thank God. Thank God for fertility drugs which actually gave 
> me an adult figure, but not until I was 38 years of age.)
> 
> 
> Kat 
> 
> Kat(June Russell)
> kat@grendal.rain.com
> Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:09:22 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 1/15/02 12:58:30 AM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> My own gripe is that current clothing styles (especially jeans) don't 
> seem to be made for _women_, they are made for telephone poles 
> instead (which don't have hips).

My 12 year old daughter hasn't grown taller yet but has started to fill out 
in the waist.  She is just a bit chubby.  I can't find jeans hardly for her.  
The girls are to small and the misses/adults have hips which she doesn't yet. 
 It is very rare to find a pair to fit her.  When I am done with my current 2 
projects pants for her are next.  It is hard for all kinds of people to find 
good fitting clothes anymore which is why I make most of my own.
Kelly
m311@aol.com


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 1/15/02 12:58:30 AM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="MS Sans Serif" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">My own gripe is that current clothing styles (especially jeans) don't 
<BR>seem to be made for _women_, they are made for telephone poles 
<BR>instead (which don't have hips).</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>My 12 year old daughter hasn't grown taller yet but has started to fill out in the waist. &nbsp;She is just a bit chubby. &nbsp;I can't find jeans hardly for her. &nbsp;The girls are to small and the misses/adults have hips which she doesn't yet. &nbsp;It is very rare to find a pair to fit her. &nbsp;When I am done with my current 2 projects pants for her are next. &nbsp;It is hard for all kinds of people to find good fitting clothes anymore which is why I make most of my own.
<BR>Kelly
<BR>m311@aol.com
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Where the "Titanic" pictures are posted...
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:35:27 -0500
Status: RO

For those who missed it the first time around, the pictures of the original
"jump" dress and "sinking" coat are at
http://www.sensibility.com/titanic/realphotos.htm -- and I just added two
corrections given to me by the original owners. One is that the bottom layer
of beaded circles is sewn to the black tulle overlay and not through the
silk. The other is that the buttons on the pink coat do not have soutache on
the buttons but some kind of silk floss sewn over button forms.

:-)

Jennie Chancey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:44:28 -0000
Status: RO

>Stepdancing is usually done on boards, yes.  But not just ladies, at least
from the folks I learned from.  Sam Sherry just died last year, but he 
was considered one of the best stepdancers from Lancashire.  

I'm only familiar with what I've seen in Leicestershire I'm afraid

>I'd say it's undergoing the same type of change that irish stepdance has.
If a tradition is to stay alive rather than becoming a museum piece, some
things do have to change.  <snip>Groups of reinactors
like us hate to think about things like that, but it's what seperates a
living, breathing tradition from reinactment.  One is real life.  The 
other is a museum piece.

Agreed

Mel



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:41:45 -0600
Status: RO

Okay I could see where it would benifit someone like me being able
to go a size down on the rack.  But to take it to one extream,
but sadly a plausible one, the one woman/girl that  is balimic or
anorexic (sorry guys I still haven't figured out the spell check
on the newest version of my browser) goes to the store and gets her
size 0 jeans, gets home and finds that she can't button them???
I will let you finish that senerio on your own.

Katie

sustre@pixelations.com wrote:

> 
> That's apparently not so unusual. There was a report in the paper 
> (Boston Globe) several years ago documenting this phenomenon- it 
> happened in all price ranges and through a variety of brands. Many 
> supposedly identical pairs were measured, and there were differences of 
> inches among them.
> 
> -Amanda
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Margo@Margospatterns.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANOTHER farthingale question
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:45:11 -0800
Status: RO


>What I need to do however, is sort out some sort of quick and easy 
>pattern for a farthingale that will fit a seven to ten year old.
>

The easiest way to do this is to make a gored skirt.  For a small girl, you
can probably get away with a two-gore, front and back, cutting it from 45"
fabric, but you can make more gores is you like.  If you want to be more
accurate you can make straight front and back pieces and give them triagular
side gores a la the Alcega pattern.  Make sure you have at least 6-12" or so
ease at the waist, so you can gather it to a waist band, or use a
drawstring, and adjust it as she gets bigger and still have some gathering
for the proper line.  You'll want to add about 4" extra length for the
spring out from waist to hem, in addition to those grow tucks.  

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Clogs...OT.
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:57:00 +0100
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Teddy,

You wrote:
  ".....and it was all clogs.  Clogs on cobbles.  Sometimes you
  couldn't even hear yourself coughing up 't blood....."

  But that's from a comedy sketch by Victoria Wood that also
  includes the lines:  "I remember when pants really were pants.  You
  wore them for 15 years then cut them down for pan-scrubs.... Or
  Quilts.  We made some lovely quilts from old bloomers.  Every
  gusset a memory.  Not bras though, 'cos they won't lie flat you see.
   We never wore bras around here until after the War.  And we used
  to make lovely rugs.  We used to stitch mice to bits of old
  sacking...."


  ROTFL Teddy!!! You made my day! I love Victoria Wood, especially the =
'Dinner Ladies' and old 'Acorn Antiques' re-runs. They have me in =
stitches. Glad to find a colleague in this, as overhere my wife finds =
them mildly funny (and hard to understand...) and I have heard of no-one =
else in Nederland who likes her. Am I abnormal? Or what?

  Incidentally: I like the Alan Bennett monologues as well as I do old =
Stanley Holloway rants and Spike Milligan and the Goons. Oh well... I =
must be peculiar.


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl


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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Teddy,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>".....and it was all clogs.&nbsp; Clogs on cobbles.&nbsp; =
Sometimes you
  <BR>couldn't even hear yourself coughing up 't blood....."<BR><BR>But =
that's
  from a comedy sketch by Victoria Wood that also <BR>includes the =
lines:&nbsp;
  "I remember when pants really were pants.&nbsp; You <BR>wore them for =
15 years
  then cut them down for pan-scrubs.... Or <BR>Quilts.&nbsp; We made =
some lovely
  quilts from old bloomers.&nbsp; Every <BR>gusset a memory.&nbsp; Not =
bras
  though, 'cos they won't lie flat you see. <BR>&nbsp;We never wore bras =
around
  here until after the War.&nbsp; And we used <BR>to make lovely =
rugs.&nbsp; We
  used to stitch mice to bits of old <BR>sacking...."<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>ROTFL Teddy!!! You made my day! I love Victoria Wood, especially =
the
  'Dinner Ladies' and old 'Acorn Antiques' re-runs. They have me in =
stitches.
  Glad to find a colleague in this, as overhere my wife finds them =
mildly funny
  (and hard to understand...) and I have heard of no-one else in =
Nederland who
  likes her. Am I abnormal? Or what?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Incidentally: I like the Alan Bennett monologues as well as I do =
old
  Stanley Holloway rants and Spike Milligan and the Goons. Oh well... I =
must be
  peculiar.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE=
></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Contest
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:35:15 EST
Status: RO

The Riversdale House Museum in Riverdale Park, Maryland, is sponsoring a 
costume contest this spring.  Contestants are encouraged to create apparel 
that might have been worn by the mistress of Riversdale, Rosalie Stier 
Calvert, and her peers in early Federal Washington, who followed fashion 
trends of Napoleonic France and Regency England.  [1801-1821]  Costume 
entries may be designed for women or men.  In addition to the open category, 
for entries from the general public, there is a special student category 
which is limited to students currently registered in costume-related classes 
at under-graduate or graduate levels.  Prizes to be awarded to the top three 
entries in both women's and men's categories, open and student divisions are: 
1st prize, $150; 2nd prize, $100, 3rd prize, $50.  A panel of judges will 
make decisions based on background research, design, and workmanship.  The 
costumes will be on display at Riversdale from May 19 to June 16, 2002.
If you would like a copy of the rules and an entry form, please email me 
privately:
annbwass@aol.com.  Let me know if you prefer a WordPerfect file attachment, a 
Word attachment, or snail mail.
Ann Wass
Staff Historian
Riversdale House Museum
6005 48th Ave.
Riverdale Park MD 20737
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANOTHER farthingale question
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:47:38 +0000
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
>While Michelle has raised the subject,
>
>I need to make a farthingale fiarly quickly and with access to the 
>minimum amount of steel boning (the usual place I get it won't 
>havbe any in for a couple of weeks and I haven't time to shop 
>around so I'm going to re-use stuff from an old 3-hoop "crinoline" I 
>haven't used in years since I outgrew the dress it went under cut it 
>up to make a Ren gown for a friend).
>
>The farthingale is for a seven year old girl and needs to be able to 
>get longer as she grows (I figure if I make the hoops to give the 
>wider-coned silhouette at the current size, they can gradually 
>reduce-in-proportion-to-her-height as she grows taller) and plan to 
>put some tucks between each of the hoops that can be let down as 
>she gains height and I let the hems of the skirts down.
>
Why not make it as is for her current height, with the ability to add
another hoop and its associated fabric on the bottom each time as she
grows?  So when she is 16, her original farthingale will be the top half
of her latest one?  Would that work, geometrically?

Jean

>What I need to do however, is sort out some sort of quick and easy 
>pattern for a farthingale that will fit a seven to ten year old.
>
>Any ideas and suggestions would be welcome and much 
>appreciated....
>
>Teddy
>(leaving for Coronation nine days time, coming down with a cold 
>and still with a mountain of sewing to get done beofre we go!)
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea sandwiches
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:44:38 +0000
Status: RO

Our big event is in north-east Scotland in mid-June.  I warn anyone
coming from the US (or from Saudi Arabia last year, poor things) that if
we're really lucky it might hit the 80s!  Bring all your winter garb!

JEan 

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
>Yeah, but how _warm_ did it get?
>--Sue (where it's actually cold tonight, so thinking of a warm summer
>day sounds pretty good)
>
>Melanie Wilson wrote:
>> 
>> >Ah, but you forget. They don't *have* really hot days in the UK anywhere
>> near the frequency or extremity that we do, so they haven't had occasion
>> to discover that iced tea is the perfect drink for multiweek stretches of
>> 90-degree days.
>> 
>> Oh yes we do (stamp of foot) we had at least three sunny days this summer
>> 
>> Mel
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:32:41 +0000
Status: RO

Parsla Liepa <pliepa@hotmail.com> wrote
>Sizes ahve changed over time, though.  My mother has many of her clothing 
>from the late 1950s and 1960s.  Forty years later, she still has the same 
>measurements and is able to fit these clothes pretty well still.  Those 
>clothes tend to be a size 12-14.  When she buys clothes today she goes for 
>sizes 4-6-8.
>
>Parsla

Now that's interesting.  It implies that British and American sizes used
to be much the same, and American sizes have shrunk (or do I mean
stretched?  The same size person now translates to a smaller size
clothes)  12-14 is about average here - 8 is really skinny, 16 is well
rounded.
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Sizes
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:45:54 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

> Don't know. . . .I know I'm buying men's jeans-- I can get the low rise I
> need, with the 32" inseam I also require.  Women's clothing insists that
if
> you are tall, you are proportionally tall.

I have a 34" inseam.  I am actually only 5'9" tall--the joke I tell is that
from the waist up, I'm 5'6", but 6' from the waist down.  That makes buying
sweaters no problem, but until I found Dockers' Khakis in long lengths, I
perpetually had a couple inches of ankle showing (the only other brand that
seemed to make pants long enough was Eddie Bauer, and I'm in a weird
no-woman's land with them as far as pant sizes--sometimes a 14 works,
sometimes an 18).  Even the Dockers could use just a touch bit more of
length, but at least I don't have to go to a special store for 'em.

Susan

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From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sizing and fitting
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:25:58 -1000 (HST)
Status: RO

> Teddy's suggestion that US 2/4 = UK 8/10 sounds reasonable.

	I have several Laura Ashley dresses with "Made in Great Britain"
tags where the size label says UK 8, EUR 34, USA 4.

	My fitting bugaboo is armholes.  On almost every sleeveless
garment (and living in the tropics, there are many), the armhole gapes
about six inches below my actual armpit.  I don't think my arms are any
skinnier than average.  Do other people find this to be the case or is it
my body type?  I have a very flat ribcage.

--annora


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drea's "superwide controversy" page
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:08:22 -0500
Status: RO

Did anyone else see this?   It is an interesting look at what THEIR
costumers were using as reference.

This is an ORIGINAL copper engraving of several kinds of ancient shoes. This
engraving was printed in 1690
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1502415524

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] !3th Century Highland questions...
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:50:20 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:10 PM -0600 1/14/02, Gorgeous Muiredach wrote:
>Thanks for the lead.  Saddly, I've looked at most of Sharon's site 
>through and through, and she's one of the ones that I often can't 
>figure what she means...  Not something on her part, just my problem 
>with translating some text into images...  I haven't seen that she 
>addresses winter clothing at all either, but that may be a figment 
>of my failing memory right now...


I think it may be a feature rather than a bug -- there simply _isn't_ 
much available in the way of visual evidence for medieval Scottish 
highland clothing -- and precious little in the way of textual 
evidence.  Writing up the scanty evidence there is in such a way that 
the reader can clearly visualize it would, to some extent, involve 
adding in a lot of artificial and false certainty.  In all 
likelihood, the best we will ever manage in terms of evidence is a 
fuzzy, distorted blob, seen through a glass darkly -- and it is for 
each person to try to interpret what sorts of actual concrete 
garments could produce that fuzzy blob and would be consistent with 
what else we know about the period and culture.

To the best of my knowledge, Sharon's site is one of the most 
reliable and informative available on the topic.  (Although I might 
be biased since she's a friend of mine.)  You may find sites that 
have more certainty and provide more concrete and practical 
information, but in all likelihood, they will be providing it at the 
cost of sacrificing accuracy and knowledge -- i.e., they may be 
telling you concrete things that unfortunately aren't so.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:55:05 -0800
Status: RO

At 4:14 PM +1100 1/15/02, Glenda Robinson wrote:
>Sarah wrote:
>>  My smallest size was a 00, which can only be found at 5-7-9.  I was really
>>  sick at the time, though.  Don't ever want to go back to looking like a
>>  waif... I'm healthy now and happy about it. :)
>>
>>  Sarah
>>
>My goodness! If the American sizing keeps getting bigger, you'll be in
>negative numbers!

Nah, it's like knitting needle sizes.  You start with 0, then 00, 
then 000, and so forth! :)

Heather
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and farthingale question
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:33:26 -0500
Status: RO

If you don't have it made up already with any of the other solutions, how
about basket caning?  I don't know if the crafts stores in your area still
carry it (Michaels in my area doesn't), but I can still find it at some of
the smaller stores.

-- Mara

At 02:56 PM 01/14/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>So this leads me to my question... I need to make a
>farthingale for an Elizabethan gown.  The problem is
>that I need to make it FAST (it's for a performance
>Thursday night).  I don't have time to order hoop
>steel from the place I usually get it, so I am
>wondering if any of you know of a good substitute for
>hoop steel that can be found at a hardware store or
>similar place.  It doesn't need to be authentic, nor
>particularly durable (this will probably be a one time
>use piece), it just needs to give the proper
>silhouette.  Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Michelle....the frazzled


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Subject: [h-cost] Seriously OT: British Food
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:00:54 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

We seem to have several Brits on the list and I have a
question.  My latest Weight Watchers Food Guide has a
new section on "Regional & Ethnic Cuisine" and there
is a section for English food.  Some of the names of
things were, well..., different:  Toad in the Hole,
Bangers & Mash, etc.  But the most sinister-sounding
one was "Bubble and Squeak."  I'm almost afraid to ask
... is that what you do an hour after eating it?  Does
anyone know what Bubble & Squeak is?

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:57:26 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:12 PM 01/14/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Ok, here's a question that I suspect all you good folk will be able to 
>answer for me without blinking an eye.  It seems such a basic question, but 
>I can't for the life of my find the right answer anywhere I look...

Which is because there really isn't a lot of good evidence for what the
Highland Scots were wearing in that period, unfortunately.

>I'm looking at doing garb that is somewhat accurate for a 13th century 
>highlander.  (those of you who'll see me at !@th night, just please 
>disregard the great playd, I know, it's not "it"...)

This is the closest I've gotten:
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Scotland.htm

Considering that the Irish and Scots shared a fair bit of their culture
still at this point, this site might also be helpful:
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/fenians/IrishClothes.htm

>I can't help thinking about how cold it can get in Scotland in Winter and 
>I'm not too sure what would have been done for Winter garb that would 
>protect from cold.  I have seen references to "moggans", some cloth wrapped 
>around the legs.  I suspect they'd also do something about shoes/boots, but 
>not sure what.

Evidence from later periods suggests that they just got used to the cold,
and wore hide shoes... they were noted for their bare legs.  Much as later
(Scots-Irish) settlers in the Appalachian Mountains astonished visitors by
going barefoot even in the worst winter snows...

>I'd love to get any and all information possible on this.  I'd rather have 
>more info than less.  Also, pushing my luck, I'll say that if anyone has 
>*pictures* of what would be accurate recreations, that would be 
>great.  Obviously, not only surviving pictures are impossible, but period 
>pictures at all were, well...  not quite possible...  But surely *someone* 
>somewhere, has pictures of garb that would appear to be accurate.  Reason 
>I'm asking for this is that I'm doing *much* better when I can actually see 
>something rather than have it described at length in texts...
>
>Thanks y'all.
>
>Gorgeous Muiredach

Not really.   Anyone who claims to have more information than McClintock or
Dunbar is making it up, IMO.

Cheers,
Mara

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:44:05 -0800
Status: RO


> Michaela asked "Does France have smaller inches than everyone 
> else?" - well, no, they use metric! I've no idea where they 
> get the figure 38 from.

In the older patterns it seems to mean 1/2 the bust measurement, if measured
in cm. Conclusion based on having made up 12 garments from "Journal des
Demoiselles", various years from 1864-1908. The text usually reads something
like "Paletot pour jeune fille, mannequin 42"(1).

--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo
note 1: accent mark omitted for ascii plaintext conversion

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:41:17 -0500
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> said:

My own gripe is that current clothing styles (especially jeans) don't
seem to be made for _women_, they are made for telephone poles
instead (which don't have hips).

	- Speak for yourself! I find that MOST womens jeans/pants are
"girl-shaped", but then, I emphatically am not (large waist, small hips). I
have to make most of my dress pants, and the only jeans that fit me are
_men's_ Levi's 501s/505s (they are the same jean, just one has a button fly,
the other has a zip).

	- I guess NONE of us can win!

	- Allison

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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DWindows-1252">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
6.0.4417.0">
<TITLE>re: sizing</TITLE>
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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Chris Laning &lt;claning@igc.org&gt; said:</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>My own gripe is that current clothing styles =
(especially jeans) don't </FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>seem to be made for _women_, they are made for =
telephone poles </FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>instead (which don't have hips).</FONT>
</P>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>- Speak for =
yourself! I find that MOST womens jeans/pants are =
&quot;girl-shaped&quot;, but then, I emphatically am not (large waist, =
small hips). I have to make most of my dress pants, and the only jeans =
that fit me are _men's_ Levi's 501s/505s (they are the same jean, just =
one has a button fly, the other has a zip).</FONT></P>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>- I guess =
NONE of us can win!</FONT>
</P>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>- =
Allison</FONT>
</P>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Still baffled, was Re: Titanic dresses
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:43:36 -0800
Status: RO

on 1/15/02 11:55 AM, Heather Rose Jones at hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU
wrote:

> At 4:14 PM +1100 1/15/02, Glenda Robinson wrote:
>> Sarah wrote:
>>> My smallest size was a 00, which can only be found at 5-7-9.  I was really
>>> sick at the time, though.  Don't ever want to go back to looking like a
>>> waif... I'm healthy now and happy about it. :)
>>> 
>>> Sarah
>>> 
>> My goodness! If the American sizing keeps getting bigger, you'll be in
>> negative numbers!
> 
> Nah, it's like knitting needle sizes.  You start with 0, then 00,
> then 000, and so forth! :)
> 
> Heather

LOL!  Yeah, I was gettin' kind of worried that I would start hitting the
negative numbers... It was hard enough as it was to find 00.  I even took to
wearing a child's size 10-12 when I was stuck.  It helped that kid's
fashions were pretty much minaturized adult fashions, though.  Of course, I
went from having nothing to wear because my old wardrobe was too big, to
having nothing to wear because the new wardrobe was too small.  Went through
*a lot* of money trying to sort that out... :P

Sarah

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From: Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] !3th Century Highland questions...
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:55:21 -0600
Status: RO


>>Thanks for the lead.  Saddly, I've looked at most of Sharon's site 
>>through and through, and she's one of the ones that I often can't figure 
>>what she means...  Not something on her part, just my problem with 
>>translating some text into images...
>
>
>I think it may be a feature rather than a bug -- there simply _isn't_ much 
>available in the way of visual evidence for medieval Scottish highland clothing

Heather, I think you misread me.  I thoroughly understand the problem.  And 
I have found Sharon's site most helpful in many other areas.  I guess my 
question reformulated would be:

Does anyone have pictures of garb made based on accurate information such 
as that garnered on Sharon's site?

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 13th Century Highland questions...
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:01:03 -0600
Status: RO


>Which is because there really isn't a lot of good evidence for what the
>Highland Scots were wearing in that period, unfortunately.

Glad to know it's not entirely my fault <wink>

>Evidence from later periods suggests that they just got used to the cold,
>and wore hide shoes... they were noted for their bare legs.  Much as later
>(Scots-Irish) settlers in the Appalachian Mountains astonished visitors by
>going barefoot even in the worst winter snows...

That I wasn't aware of...  Alas, it is not possible for me to do so.  Too 
many reasons to explain ehre, but one of them is health 
concerns...  <shrug>  Perhaps I should look into a different area, like 
become an inuit? :-)

>Not really.   Anyone who claims to have more information than McClintock or
>Dunbar is making it up, IMO.

As I just said on another answer on this topic, I'm not so much looking at 
first hand pictures.  Rather, at recreated garb based on folks such as 
McClintock, Dunbar et als.  Not quite as accurate as possible, yet better 
than nothing.

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:07:21 -0600
Status: RO


>Does anyone know what Bubble & Squeak is?

I believe it often is a dish of left overs involving cabbage, potatoes, and 
either bacon or beef.  Onions too.

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:07:33 -0500
Status: RO


I was once a sz 0. When I was 27 yo I weighed 92 lbs. and stayed
in that range until I was about 30. I'm almost 5'5" so I really did look
sickly.
My friends-even strangers, would even ask me outright if I was sick-if I had
"the virus", or if I had an eating disorder-which I did not.. People can be
pretty rude. The real reason I was so thin was from nerves. At 27, I had been
in a
pretty bad relationship for over 5 years & the stress of it all just started
taking its toll on my nerves & one of the results was that I just couldn't eat
very much-ever. Plus, I guess after a while the stomach starts to shrink,
making the tiniest portion of food seem very filling. My whole life I had
always been on the thin side, 110-115 lbs; a size 3-4, but those sz 0 years
were definitely the scrawniest I had ever been.
Now I'm 33 yo and weigh 126. I'm a sz 4-6 and definitely look much better.
I feel healthier & more attractive. People tell me I look better.
But I must admit, it is so weird now that I can actually gain weight.
Anyway..just thought I'd share. The point is, not all sz 0s are super-skinny
because they are dieting.
Lisa

> My daughter is one of those "naturally thin" people, but she's not a
> size 0 anymore.  She teaches dance (tap, jazz, modern, ballet, lyrical,
> supported adagio) part time and at 5'5" I don't know what she weighs,
> but she's got a 24" waist and is a 34DD (the reason she's not a size 0
> anymore)
>

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:26:07 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. I think what Sharon was trying to say, in so many words, is what the
costume folks for "Braveheart" should have gotten, which is that the Scots were
wearing pretty much what everyone else in Europe was wearing in the 13th Cent..
The Highlanders were probably a few years behind, not because of any culturally
bigoted reasons, just because they were at the end of the earth, fashion-wise,
although you can argue that the Greenlanders of  the 14th cent. managed to
mantain their fashion sense even to the end (thanks, Marc, for your
contributions to this effort). All of the clothing items associated with
Scotland (Bonnets, plaids and the like), are far later. The western Isles had
their association and contact with Ireland (see Mairead Dunlevy's book "Dress
in Ireland" for details). McClintock's book has all the pictures that I think
are out there on the earlier period. Check online for some of the reenactor
webrings in Britain, and I'm sure that the groups there will share what info
they have. You might also want to check with the National Museum in Edinburgh.
They have various artifacts (including a few shoes, IIRC) that could help. Good
Luck, Mike T.

Gorgeous Muiredach wrote:

> Ok, here's a question that I suspect all you good folk will be able to
> answer for me without blinking an eye.  It seems such a basic question, but
> I can't for the life of my find the right answer anywhere I look...
>
> I'm looking at doing garb that is somewhat accurate for a 13th century
> highlander.  (those of you who'll see me at !@th night, just please
> disregard the great playd, I know, it's not "it"...)
>
> I can't help thinking about how cold it can get in Scotland in Winter and
> I'm not too sure what would have been done for Winter garb that would
> protect from cold.  I have seen references to "moggans", some cloth wrapped
> around the legs.  I suspect they'd also do something about shoes/boots, but
> not sure what.
>
> I'd love to get any and all information possible on this.  I'd rather have
> more info than less.  Also, pushing my luck, I'll say that if anyone has
> *pictures* of what would be accurate recreations, that would be
> great.  Obviously, not only surviving pictures are impossible, but period
> pictures at all were, well...  not quite possible...  But surely *someone*
> somewhere, has pictures of garb that would appear to be accurate.  Reason
> I'm asking for this is that I'm doing *much* better when I can actually see
> something rather than have it described at length in texts...
>
> Thanks y'all.
>
> Gorgeous Muiredach
> Rokkehealden Shire
> Middle Kingdom
> aka
> Nicolas Steenhout
> "You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:50:51 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. Ron, you are on the Constant? Great! Say hello to Terry Bond for me when
you see him. I copied the breeches from the upper right figure on the cover
page of Waghenaer's "The Mariner's Mirrour" (1588).  You can see a copy at
http://www.slac.stanford.edu/pubs/icfa/logo.html
My wife is knitting me up a thrumcap at her leisure. BTW, Terry might be able
to assist the other gentleman on the list with questions about medieval
Scottish clothing. Please forward the info to him if you can. I have misplaced
his e-mail address currently. Thanks, Mike T.


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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:11:46 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

AMEN!  I'm VERY busty (though I'm quite large, but I was never smaller than a
D cup when I was thin).  My daughter, who is 9, wants to be a ballet dancer. 
She has lots of talent, but of course is worried about her own body when it
begins to develop.  She's a bean pole now, like her father, but even HIS
mother and sister are well endowed.  I'm half Italian and that side of the
family is large, though my mother was never bigger than an A cup except when
she was pregnant.  So, we'll just have to see.

But to think she's a stripper.... HOW DEPRESSING is that?

Sharon

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:56:18 EST
Status: RO

The inspector came this morning. He took scrapings from various parts of the 
house and put them in test tubes, added some chemicals and came out with 
orange bits that dropped to the bottom of the tubes. This is apparantly a 
good thing. He said all we have to do is pressure wash the house with a 
fungicide, then sand and paint the wood rather than stain. Moderately 
expensive and vaguely time consuming but the house gets to stay and so do we! 
Does anyone out there have the vaguest idea how happy and relieved I am right 
now? I hope everyone has as good a day as mine has proved thus far.
Thanks for all the e-mails and support.
Lady G
Anne
Gramma Gryphon
Gryphon
me

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:16:01 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 15/1/02 8:34:37 PM, nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:
<< I have a 34" inseam.  I am actually only 5'9" tall--the joke I tell is that

from the waist up, I'm 5'6", but 6' from the waist down. >>

Ditto, only at 5'6", the one good thing I've found is that the Lee's and Lee 
Riders actually come in a Tall that IS indeed a TALL. Average I've gotten is 
a 35 inseam. I have one pair I have to cuff because it's a 36.
I Hate high water pants,
Lady G
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:14:42 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, all. The fungus Claviceps purpurea is responsible for ergot poisoning. The
alkaloid derived from the fungus is related structurally to lysergic acid
diethylamide. A similar compound is also found in some morning glory seeds
which were used by the Aztecs for trance/divinatory activities. Glenda, when
you see the Jamestown episode, note that the big bearded fellow who shoots the
one fellow (whose body has all the lead in it) is also one of the musketeers
that executes another later. That is Fred, one of the reenactors from
Jamestown. Last St. Maries muster, we were teasing him, calling him Fred the
Assassin. To tie this in alltogether, there was also another incident at
Jamestown dealing with a toxic alkaloid. Appareently, the settlers, starving,
were convinced that a certain plant growing nearby was spinach. They ate it,
and some died. The plant was Datura Stramonica, also called Jimson, or
Jamestown weed. This plant is in the Solanaceae family, which includes
Mandrake, and from which atropine has been synthesized. For all of you
asthmatics out there, the medicine Atrovent is a synthetic structural analogue
of the same. Mike T. (aka Michael Graham, Barber-Surgeon)

Glenda Robinson wrote:

> Yep. That's right. There was a doco recently on Ergot poisoning on Aus TV.
> They mentioned the LSD derivative there. The theory was that "Bewitchment"
> in the Mediaeval times may have been Ergot poisoning. The symptoms are the
> same, and it happened more in the Rye-growing areas. Next week, the same
> series has a show on the Jamestown massacre, which I'm really looking
> forward to - right up my alley.
>
> Glenda.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 3:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT:mold
>
> > >I learned
> > >about ergot (Mutterkorn) as a kid. It is caused by the fungus Claviceps
> > >purpurea.
> > >It likes to grow in rye grains, especially when the weather is
> particularly
> > >wet.
> >
> > Doesn't LSD derive from ergot, or at least, isn't it related chemically?,
> > asked the former Hippie?  A former LSD-user, of my acquaintance, told me
> > that was the case.
> >
> > Kayta
> >    //// \\\
> >   ////-@@\\\
> >  ((((   7 )))
> >   (((  <> ))))
> >      )   ((((((
> > /----\   /---\))
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:31:27 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, Katya, the Romans were using a form of mold (though not with slipcasting)
to make their Samian Ware (modern archaeological terminology). Egyptians did
the same with Faience. The Germans were using molds in the 16th Cent for some
pieces, but in most cases (like the faces and other decorations on the
ceramics) were usind wooden or ceramic molds for pressed clay items, then using
slip to attach the decorations to the wheel-thrown bodies. Not until the advent
of plaster molds, used to wick away the water, was true slipcasting done.
Nonetheless, there is a pipeclay (white bodied) piece from the late 16th/early
17th cent. in the Phila. Art Museum that has mold seams (probably from the
aforementioned wooden or ceramic molds). A similar jug/drinking vessel can be
seen in the Clara Peeters still-life of 1597 in Munich. The name Humpen also
refers to a fairly large volume (for the period) beaker with straight or
slightly tapered sides, usually a beer rather than a wine or spirits glass.
Mike T.



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:42:17 EST
Status: RO

Teddy, I believe the floor is yours-
Grin,
Lady G

In a message dated 15/1/02 8:41:34 PM, joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com writes:

<< We seem to have several Brits on the list and I have a
question.  My latest Weight Watchers Food Guide has a
new section on "Regional & Ethnic Cuisine" and there
is a section for English food.  Some of the names of
things were, well..., different:  Toad in the Hole,
Bangers & Mash, etc.  But the most sinister-sounding
one was "Bubble and Squeak."  I'm almost afraid to ask
... is that what you do an hour after eating it?  Does
anyone know what Bubble & Squeak is? >>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Thrums, was  Hemp
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:50:43 -0500
Status: RO

What's a thrumcap?

Is it by any odd chance made of thrums? One always wants to do something 
practical with them...

Anne


leigh tartaglio wrote:

>
>My wife is knitting me up a thrumcap at her leisure. 
>


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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:56:55 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, how wonderful!

All this angst was so that power washing and all  the rest of it looks 
good...;^)

Anne

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

>The inspector came this morning. He took scrapings from various parts of the 
>house and put them in test tubes, added some chemicals and came out with 
>orange bits that dropped to the bottom of the tubes. This is apparantly a 
>good thing. He said all we have to do is pressure wash the house with a 
>fungicide, then sand and paint the wood rather than stain. Moderately 
>expensive and vaguely time consuming but the house gets to stay and so do we! 
>Does anyone out there have the vaguest idea how happy and relieved I am right 
>now? I hope everyone has as good a day as mine has proved thus far.
>Thanks for all the e-mails and support.
>Lady G
>Anne
>Gramma Gryphon
>Gryphon
>me
>
>


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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hemp (WAS: Web sites that sell fabrics
  suitablefor   costuming)
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:58:40 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:50 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi. Ron, you are on the Constant? Great! Say hello to Terry Bond for me when
>you see him. I copied the breeches from the upper right figure on the cover
>page of Waghenaer's "The Mariner's Mirrour" (1588).  You can see a copy at
>http://www.slac.stanford.edu/pubs/icfa/logo.html
>My wife is knitting me up a thrumcap at her leisure. BTW, Terry might be able
>to assist the other gentleman on the list with questions about medieval
>Scottish clothing. Please forward the info to him if you can. I have misplaced
>his e-mail address currently. Thanks, Mike T.
>
        I do see him around though I do not have his email address.  I can
see what I can do for you. He is not with the ships but with the indian
village.  

         I am having a thrum cap made as well.  Jamestown's source is
Kristina Buckland who has become very expensive and very slow to deliver.
Now that I think about it however, I have been waiting a long while any
way....I should look into that.

        I have copies of the faceplates (both the English and the orginal
Nederland) for The Mariner's Mirror.  Is it the english version you mean?
(I am suspecting so due to your use of the English title.

        I am always pleased to meet someone who has an interest in16th
century nautical history and actually knows what they are talking about!
(Your recognition of the the thrum cap proves to me you do).  So often it is
just the movie image of later day pirates with a touch of Hornblower! 

 Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:00:56 -0800
Status: RO


They're very small. You put one on each thrum for warmth.
--cin 
Cynthia not particularly helpful in Tokyo 

> What's a thrumcap?
> 
> Is it by any odd chance made of thrums? One always wants to 
> do something practical with them...
> 
> Anne
> 
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:12:43 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:14 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi, all. The fungus Claviceps purpurea is responsible for ergot poisoning. The
>alkaloid derived from the fungus is related structurally to lysergic acid
>diethylamide. A similar compound is also found in some morning glory seeds
>which were used by the Aztecs for trance/divinatory activities. Glenda, when
>you see the Jamestown episode, note that the big bearded fellow who shoots the
>one fellow (whose body has all the lead in it) is also one of the musketeers
>that executes another later. That is Fred, one of the reenactors from
>Jamestown. Last St. Maries muster, we were teasing him, calling him Fred the
>Assassin. To tie this in alltogether, there was also another incident at
>Jamestown dealing with a toxic alkaloid. Appareently, the settlers, starving,
>were convinced that a certain plant growing nearby was spinach. They ate it,
>and some died. The plant was Datura Stramonica, also called Jimson, or
>Jamestown weed. This plant is in the Solanaceae family, which includes
>Mandrake, and from which atropine has been synthesized. For all of you
>asthmatics out there, the medicine Atrovent is a synthetic structural analogue
>of the same. Mike T. (aka Michael Graham, Barber-Surgeon)
>
>Glenda Robinson wrote:
>

        I wasn't aware that Datura grew here, let alone that it had a
nickname based on the area!  Datura grew all over the area I grew up, the
most people had no idea of what it was.  Wild tobacco as well.  That was in
Los Angeles of all places.  Datura was used by some indigeneous peoples in
mexico in a similiar method to what you mention about morning glory seeds.
It is however very dangerous.  Castaneda gave a recipe for it's use, which I
have been assured is incoreect and could kill a person.  (my past is coming
back to haunt me....)


    In a completly unrelated topic, but closer to topic, I would like to
reccommend the nineteenth century patterns sold by James County Mercantile.
They were originally called The Great American Pattern Emporioun or
something like that and are now called Homespun patterns.  They are meant
for the American Civil War market so they are all about that period.  

        What I like about them is that they are usually taken form extant
garments (sometimes from tailors cutting books etc.).  They will describe
the materials and colors used on the original, and they generally follow
period construction techniques (not all these companies do).  I am presently
making myself a sack suit which is what brings it to mine.  (That in my
annoying habit of always trying to include a list relevant note in any
obviously non-topical post I make, no matter how thinly veiled.

Cheers,

        
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Thrums, was  Hemp
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:17:36 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:00 PM 1/15/02 -0800, you wrote:
>
>They're very small. You put one on each thrum for warmth.
>--cin 
>Cynthia not particularly helpful in Tokyo 
>
>> What's a thrumcap?
>> 
>> Is it by any odd chance made of thrums? One always wants to 
>> do something practical with them...
>> 
>> Anne
>> 
  A thrummed or thrum cap is made of thrum.  It is a goofy looking woolen
cap used very commonly by sailors through out the 16th and 17th centuries.
In woodcuts it often appears to be fur, and they have been  misidentified in
some secondary sources due to that.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Thrums, was  Hemp
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:19:58 -0500
Status: RO

That would be small!

I should clarify. Thrums, as weavers use the word, at least, are the 
pieces of warp thread left when you cut a finished piece of cloth off 
the loom. You can have a lot of thread left over, but it is all in these 
pieces, and how much fringe can you really use? But it drives us crazy 
to throw it all out. I was wondering if this cap was something devised 
to use these short threads.

Anne


Cynthia Barnes wrote:

>They're very small. You put one on each thrum for warmth.
>--cin 
>Cynthia not particularly helpful in Tokyo 
>
>>What's a thrumcap?
>>
>>Is it by any odd chance made of thrums? One always wants to 
>>do something practical with them...
>>
>>Anne
>>
>


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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Thrums, was  Hemp
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:25:31 -0800
Status: RO


What's thrum?  I'm guessing it's hemp-related since that's the general gist
of the thread.
Got a picture?
--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:48:24 -0700
Status: RO

Uhm....Could it just be the style of the garment?
--sue

annora wrote:
         My fitting bugaboo is armholes.  On almost every sleeveless
> garment (and living in the tropics, there are many), the armhole gapes
> about six inches below my actual armpit.  I don't think my arms are any
> skinnier than average.  Do other people find this to be the case or is it
> my body type?  I have a very flat ribcage.
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seriously OT: British Food
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:52:22 +1100
Status: RO

This must  be an accurate recipe - The site says it's from the Two Fat
Ladies, who, if you don't know of them, are a pair of the more old-fashioned
style of British TV cooks. Brilliant stuff!


                     BUBBLE AND SQUEAK (Two Fat Ladies)

   Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
 --------  ------------  --------------------------------
    1      pound         cold potatoes
    2      ounces        dripping or lard
    1                    onion -- finely chopped
    8      ounces        cooked cabbage or sprouts -- chopped
                         Salt
                         Black pepper -- freshly ground

 Finely chop the potatoes and crush slightly. In a frying pan melt half the
 fat and lightly fry the onion. Mix in the potato and greens and season
well.
 Add more dripping or lard. Press the
 bubble into the hot fat and fry over a moderate heat until browned
  underneath.
 Turn the bubble over, add the last of the fat and fry until the other side
 is browned.

I got this from
http://www.recipesource.com/ethnic/europe/british/00/rec0039.html

It's another one of these 'using up the leftovers' foods. There, of course,
will be as many different recipes as there are families in Britain, as  is
the norm with these traditional dishes.

As for the Bubbling and squeaking, I think it's the sound the food makes,
but the H-Costumers that are resident in GB would know for sure.

Glenda.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] HAPPY DANCE....
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:46:00 -0600
Status: RO

I am so happy for you Lady.  I could never imagine what it would
be like to be faced with knowing you are going to loose everything
like that.  *hug*

Katie

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> The inspector came this morning. He took scrapings from various parts of the 
> house and put them in test tubes, added some chemicals and came out with 
> orange bits that dropped to the bottom of the tubes. This is apparantly a 
> good thing. He said all we have to do is pressure wash the house with a 
> fungicide, then sand and paint the wood rather than stain. Moderately 
> expensive and vaguely time consuming but the house gets to stay and so do we! 
> Does anyone out there have the vaguest idea how happy and relieved I am right 
> now? I hope everyone has as good a day as mine has proved thus far.
> Thanks for all the e-mails and support.
> Lady G
> Anne
> Gramma Gryphon
> Gryphon
> me
> 
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seriously OT: British Food
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:02:06 -0600
Status: RO

I think I know, but since Lady G gave Teddy the floor I won't
make a fool of myself by possibily getting it wrong. *L*

Katie

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> Teddy, I believe the floor is yours-
> Grin,
> Lady G
> 
> In a message dated 15/1/02 8:41:34 PM, joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com writes:
> 
> << We seem to have several Brits on the list and I have a
> question.  My latest Weight Watchers Food Guide has a
> new section on "Regional & Ethnic Cuisine" and there
> is a section for English food.  Some of the names of
> things were, well..., different:  Toad in the Hole,
> Bangers & Mash, etc.  But the most sinister-sounding
> one was "Bubble and Squeak."  I'm almost afraid to ask
> ... is that what you do an hour after eating it?  Does
> anyone know what Bubble & Squeak is? >>
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seriously OT: British Food
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:14:33 -0600
Status: RO

Okay I know now.  Bangers and Mash is a sausage and mashed
potato dish, and Toad in the Hole is a pastry filled with meat and
mashed potatoes....I think. *L*  I watch the British Comedies
on PBS every Saturday, and used to watch BBC America when I had
a dish.  Then when I lived in Germany I watch BBC more then I
watched AFRTS (which I called A Farts affectionately. *L*)

One of the Fat Ladies died awhile back...don't remember which
one though.

Katie

Glenda Robinson wrote:

> This must  be an accurate recipe - The site says it's from the Two Fat
> Ladies, who, if you don't know of them, are a pair of the more old-fashioned
> style of British TV cooks. Brilliant stuff!


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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 17:39:37 +1100
Status: RO

Katie wrote:
>
> One of the Fat Ladies died awhile back...don't remember which
> one though.
>
That would be Jennifer. Saw a documentary on her life and she sure lived it!

On topic bit: I'm making some waistcoats for my boys this week. It's amazing
how the pattern around the armholes turn out the same shape as 17th century
doublets! I suppose it's the same as how Owen's Yoda undertunic 'just
happened' to be the same pattern as an Anglo-Saxon style Dark Age tunic :-)

Glenda.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] !3th Century Highland questions...
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 07:01:16 -0000
Status: RO

>Scots were
wearing pretty much what everyone else in Europe was wearing in the 13th
Cent..

I note highland scots may have used local dyes as opposed to the more
expensive imported ones, there is a history of local dyes in Scotland which
is somwhat different from London at the same time

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seriously OT: British Food
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 07:04:27 -0000
Status: RO

>I believe it often is a dish of left overs involving cabbage, potatoes, and
either bacon or beef.  Onions too.



Correct most often on Mondays using Sunday roast leftovers !

Mel

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:03:35 -0800
Status: RO


>But the most sinister-sounding
>one was "Bubble and Squeak."  I'm almost afraid to ask
>... is that what you do an hour after eating it?  Does
>anyone know what Bubble & Squeak is?

My mother (we live in California) has a recipe for Bubble and Squeak,
involving feeding garden snails bread and lettuce for a week before you
cook them.  Probably a different dish entirely.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 02:38:50 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] jeanne@parrotfantasy.com
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:05:17 -0800
Status: RO

Hey - strippers can make good money.  Not much costume... ;)

>But to think she's a stripper.... HOW DEPRESSING is that?

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 02:41:44 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Thrums, was  Hemp
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:09:53 -0800
Status: RO

>Is it by any odd chance made of thrums? One always wants to do something 
>practical with them...

Thrums, as in, twisted leftover lumps and bits of thread or fibre?  If so,
put 'em in a box and send them to me.  I also do fibre art, and I applique
these onto other fabric for interesting texture.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 02:41:48 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where the "Titanic" pictures are posted...
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:16:24 -0800
Status: RO

Thank you.

Jennie Chancey writes, in a message sent 11:35 AM 1/15/02 -0500:
>For those who missed it the first time around, the pictures of the original
>"jump" dress and "sinking" coat are at
>http://www.sensibility.com/titanic/realphotos.htm -- and I just added two
>corrections given to me by the original owners. One is that the bottom layer
>of beaded circles is sewn to the black tulle overlay and not through the
>silk. The other is that the buttons on the pink coat do not have soutache on
>the buttons but some kind of silk floss sewn over button forms.
>
>:-)
>
>Jennie Chancey
>
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
>http://www.sensibility.com
>winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal
>
>_______________________________________________
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Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 02:44:27 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seriously OT: British Food
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:10:50 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Joan

Bubble and squeak is a dish of potatoes and cabbage or
brussel sprouts.  The name comes from the noise that
the vegetables make in the pan when they are cooking. 
Nothing more sinister than that.  The same goes for
sausages = bangers as old fashioned sausages have a
tendency to explode in the pan.

As to the Toad in the Hole, your guess is as good as
mine.  But there is no doubt it tastes great.

Enjoy!
Rachel

 --- Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
wrote: > We seem to have several Brits on the list and
I have
> a
> question.  My latest Weight Watchers Food Guide has
> a
> new section on "Regional & Ethnic Cuisine" and there
> is a section for English food.  Some of the names of
> things were, well..., different:  Toad in the Hole,
> Bangers & Mash, etc.  But the most sinister-sounding
> one was "Bubble and Squeak."  I'm almost afraid to
> ask
> ... is that what you do an hour after eating it? 
> Does
> anyone know what Bubble & Squeak is?
> 
> Iohanna the Harper
> [Joan Hall]
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 02:55:47 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: sizing
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:19:39 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

My own gripe with Ladies trousers is that no-matter
what size you buy when you sit down they are too tight
at the front and hang loose at the back, to such an
extent to make long tops an absolute necessity.  

Also for those of us in the smaller sizes no-one
realises that we can have curves too, I'm a UK size 8,
but my waist is definately not straight up from my
hips as some clothing manufactuerers seem to think.

So what do I do - wear skirts!

Rachel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 03:08:35 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seriously OT: British Food
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:30:17 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Katie

Toad in the hole is actually sauages cooked in
Yorkshire pudding batter (flour, eggs and milk). 
Seriously bad for you but tastes great!

Rachel

 --- Katie <nejma@tds.net> wrote: > Okay I know now. 
Bangers and Mash is a sausage and
> mashed
> potato dish, and Toad in the Hole is a pastry filled
> with meat and
> mashed potatoes....I think. *L*  I watch the British
> Comedies
> on PBS every Saturday, and used to watch BBC America
> when I had
> a dish.  Then when I lived in Germany I watch BBC
> more then I
> watched AFRTS (which I called A Farts
> affectionately. *L*)
> 
> One of the Fat Ladies died awhile back...don't
> remember which
> one though.
> 
> Katie
> 
> Glenda Robinson wrote:
> 
> > This must  be an accurate recipe - The site says
> it's from the Two Fat
> > Ladies, who, if you don't know of them, are a pair
> of the more old-fashioned
> > style of British TV cooks. Brilliant stuff!
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 00:41:39 -0800
Status: RO

> Also for those of us in the smaller sizes no-one
> realises that we can have curves too, 

Now that reminds me of a tale.  A certain bride of my acquaintance decided
that she & all her bridesmaids would be wearing 1902 gowns. (Lovely dresses,
lovely wedding, too.)  During the process we made corsets, petticoats,
skirts & chemises.  Early on in the corset-making process, one valiant,
non-sewing bridesmaid asked the bride what "this piece" was for.  Bride
carefully explained the concept of gussets and Edwardian corset shapes.
Bride then said "We all need them, except for Cin who can leave the gussets
out".  Bride now claims that I, in a fit of pique replied "I have tits, too
ya know!" 
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo 
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:01:30 +0100
Status: RO

As to the Toad in the Hole, your guess is as good as
mine.  But there is no doubt it tastes great.

Enjoy!
Rachel

That is funny. Would you belive me if i said that there  is a lace 
filling called that: "Toad in a hole"
Very pretty two :-)
I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!
Did you ever taste their Shepperds Pie? Yark!!!!
I remember Nicole Kippar was overwhelmed by the danish food when she 
last was here. I dont blame her, living in the UK.

Bjarne

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:10:50 +0100
Status: RO

Hi
My regency dress only needs to be hemmed. I am doing that today. 
Yesterday they showed a program about Napoleon, and there they showed 
lots of prints with merveilleuses.  Ladies exposed their breasts in the 
streets. The bodice was cut to under the breasts. I think it was 
something psykologic, there was a severe revolution going on, and all 
the people didnt know what to do!
Well my Merveilleuse dress isnt like that. Even though i builded another 
bodice than the Arnold pattern, i made two center back panels and eylet 
holes in the back to be laced, it looks quite close to the original. But 
i would not make it in that material i used one more time ( bridal satin 
and organza ) It falls very beautifull but it is much two heavy for that 
style!
A good advice is: Dont use bridal satin for a regency gown!!!!

Bjarne

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 09:33:55 +0000
Status: RO


Bjarne wrote:
>I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!
>Did you ever taste their Shepperds Pie? Yark!!!!
>I remember Nicole Kippar was overwhelmed by the danish food when she 
>last was here. I dont blame her, living in the UK.

Hey, hey! I have to rise to this challenge! All countries' dishes are good when they're well prepared. The problem in Britain is that we seem to be more tolerant of poor food in the cheaper type of restaurant than some other countries are.
Yes, Toad in the Hole is sausages in batter. The meat and potato in pastry is a Cornish Pasty. 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk 

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph 

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html 


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Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  old pattern sizes (was: Still baffled)
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:32:39 +1300
Status: RO

> > Michaela asked "Does France have smaller inches than everyone
> > else?" -
>  well, no, they use metric! I've no idea where they get the figure 38
from.
> In the older patterns it seems to mean 1/2 the bust measurement, if
measured in cm.

But this is a modern jacket. And it would make the jacket barely 76cm round
the top, which is about my waist measurement. Might be that they take an
inch to mean 2.4cm rather than 2.5.. I just used my calculator to work that
out;). I know that miles are different country to country.
We use metric here too, but dress sizes have always been based on inches, so
that women here by fabric by the metre but if you buy a pattern it's scaled
to the inch thing... and bras are say 36A etc, with the cm in brackets.

michaela


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:13:34 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Bjarne

I hope you are joking.  British food is wonderful, and
there is more to it than grease and fat!  Saying that
one dish from a whole country is like coneming Germany
for having an unhealthy facination with Worst, or the
French with frogs legs.

Rachel
British to the backbone!

 --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > As
to the Toad in the Hole, your guess is as good as
> mine.  But there is no doubt it tastes great.
> 
> Enjoy!
> Rachel
> 
> That is funny. Would you belive me if i said that
> there  is a lace 
> filling called that: "Toad in a hole"
> Very pretty two :-)
> I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!
> Did you ever taste their Shepperds Pie? Yark!!!!
> I remember Nicole Kippar was overwhelmed by the
> danish food when she 
> last was here. I dont blame her, living in the UK.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
> 
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
> 
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
> 
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> 
> Homepage:
> http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 11:37:57 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
Well! yes it was a joke, but it is true that it is hard for a tourist in 
London to find places with good british food.
I had to use foreign restaurants every evening to get a proper meal.
When i go to another country i am always looking for original food. I am 
not discerning in my taste, when i just visited France this summer i ate 
snails with good apetite :-)

Bjarne 

Rachel wrote:

>Bjarne
>
>I hope you are joking.  British food is wonderful, and
>there is more to it than grease and fat!  Saying that
>one dish from a whole country is like coneming Germany
>for having an unhealthy facination with Worst, or the
>French with frogs legs.
>
>Rachel
>British to the backbone!
>
> --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > As
>to the Toad in the Hole, your guess is as good as
>
>>mine.  But there is no doubt it tastes great.
>>
>>Enjoy!
>>Rachel
>>
>>That is funny. Would you belive me if i said that
>>there  is a lace 
>>filling called that: "Toad in a hole"
>>Very pretty two :-)
>>I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!
>>Did you ever taste their Shepperds Pie? Yark!!!!
>>I remember Nicole Kippar was overwhelmed by the
>>danish food when she 
>>last was here. I dont blame her, living in the UK.
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>-- 
>>
>>
>>Leif Drews
>>Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>>1635  København V
>>
>>Bjarne Drews
>>Åboulevard 5,3.th
>>1635 København V
>>
>>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>>
>>My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>>
>>Homepage:
>>http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
>>
>
>__________________________________________________
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-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 06:53:29 2002
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 04:17:32 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>I'm a UK size 8, but my waist is definately not
>straight up from my hips as some clothing
>manufactuerers seem to think.
>So what do I do - wear skirts!


I have a similar problem, but at the other end of the
size spectrum!  My waist is too small for the rest of
me (measurements: 50" - 35" - 50") so I spend my
mundane life in elastic-waist full skirts.  Pants that
fit over my hips drape themselves about my waist in
festive swags.

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 07:04:25 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] 1.) Bubble & Squeak   2.) Toddler Tunics
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 04:30:48 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Thanks, Glenda, for the recipe.  According to The
Giant Food Bible, a cup of this stuff would only be
about 1/10th of my food allotment for the day.  

I get to garb my grandson!  Anthony, who is 22 months
old and my pride and joy (he's brilliant, charming,
funny & handsome, I tell you!!), gets to have a tunic
made so he can come to a couple of events with me.  I
plan to make a basic T-tunic, but I'm not sure how
long and how "full" to make it.  I'm thinking of
making it fairly straight and slit up the sides to
wear over some plain "legging-style" pants.  (He's
still in diapers.) Any suggestions?

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

=====


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 07:26:31 2002
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 07:54:36 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 15/1/02 11:05:11 PM, afmmurphy@earthlink.net writes:
<< Oh, how wonderful!

Anne >>

Thank you other Anne, >BG<
Lady G
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 07:37:37 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 14:12:20 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

Did they put a busk in 16th century corsets?

Greetings,
        Deredere

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 07:40:16 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] HAPPY DANCE/Many Many thanks
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:04:20 EST
Status: RO

to each and everyone who send word of your concern, for all your prayers and 
happy thoughts and good vibes that were sent our way. Knowing there were so 
many wonderful people keeping "the vibe up" (as we used to say back when) 
made waiting for the news on the house easier.
Again, My Thanks,
Lady G
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 07:40:19 2002
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:07:34 -0600
Status: RO

And I happen to like Shpherd's Pie!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 3:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British


>
> Bjarne wrote:
> >I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!
> >Did you ever taste their Shepperds Pie? Yark!!!!
> >I remember Nicole Kippar was overwhelmed by the danish food when she
> >last was here. I dont blame her, living in the UK.
>
> Hey, hey! I have to rise to this challenge! All countries' dishes are good
when they're well prepared. The problem in Britain is that we seem to be
more tolerant of poor food in the cheaper type of restaurant than some other
countries are.
> Yes, Toad in the Hole is sausages in batter. The meat and potato in pastry
is a Cornish Pasty.
>
>
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
>
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
>
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 13:23:48 +0000
Status: RO

Michaela wrote (re. French dress sizes)

>But this is a modern jacket. And it would make the jacket barely 76cm >round
>the top, which is about my waist measurement. Might be that they take an
>inch to mean 2.4cm rather than 2.5.. I just used my calculator to work that
>out;). I know that miles are different country to country.

The French have used the metric system for 200 years, so it's unlikely their dress sizing has *anything* to do with inches.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 13:38:36 -0000
Status: RO

> Bjarne wrote:
> >I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!

I object to this many Brits can cook, very well thank you ! You hatred of
our food is a personal response and cannot be disagreed with, but not the
ability of a whole nation to cook please !

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 08:54:29 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 09:39:46 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 16 Jan 2002, Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:

> Did they put a busk in 16th century corsets?

This isn't my period, and I'm sure it depends on when in the 16th century
you're talking about, and where, but I do remember running across a
reference in an English satirical poem criticizing women's fashion from
the very end of the century. Speaking *strictly* from memory, it was
almost certainly "Pleasant Quippes for Upstart Newfangle Gentlewomen," and
the verse in question went something like "The bonnie busk, which holds
down flat, the bed wherein the babe doth breed" and went on from there.

If there is demand, I will dig out the reference and date.

--Robin

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 15:59:58 +0100
Status: RO

I was thinking of Spain 1560-1580
And I was wondering if it is comfortable..

Greetings,
        Deredere


Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Wed, 16 Jan 2002, Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
>
> > Did they put a busk in 16th century corsets?
>
> This isn't my period, and I'm sure it depends on when in the 16th century
> you're talking about, and where, but I do remember running across a
> reference in an English satirical poem criticizing women's fashion from
> the very end of the century. Speaking *strictly* from memory, it was
> almost certainly "Pleasant Quippes for Upstart Newfangle Gentlewomen," and
> the verse in question went something like "The bonnie busk, which holds
> down flat, the bed wherein the babe doth breed" and went on from there.
>
> If there is demand, I will dig out the reference and date.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:00:32 -0500
Status: RO

Providence Day School
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On 1/16/02 9:59 AM, "Deredere & Owen Iskander" <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:

> I was thinking of Spain 1560-1580
> And I was wondering if it is comfortable..
> 
> Greetings,
>       Deredere

Before I swore off wearing corsets( because of the heat, mostly) my corset
had a busk.  I had no trouble with the comfort level, but it didn't extend
too far down in front.

Grace/Jessamyn   

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 07:56:36 -0800
Status: RO


> 	My fitting bugaboo is armholes.  On almost every sleeveless
> garment (and living in the tropics, there are many), the armhole gapes
> about six inches below my actual armpit.  I don't think my arms are any
> skinnier than average.  Do other people find this to be the case or is it
> my body type?  I have a very flat ribcage.

Believe it or not, that sounds like a bustline problem. Back before 
the fertility drugs gave me a bust, I had the same problem with 
armholes.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: LadyGryphon@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 11:01:19 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 16/1/02 8:55:03 AM, triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:
<< > On Wed, 16 Jan 2002, Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> > Did they put a busk in 16th century corsets? >>

The Dorothea Sabina von Neuberg moire pair of bodies (corset) has a 24"x2" 
casing for a busk and is dated 1598. That is currently the only extant corset 
outside of QEI's effigy corset. Having worn corsets with and without busks I 
can state that the busk changes the line of the gown so depending on the 
piece, I'd put either one in or add extra boning in the front.
On a similar note-My husband mundanely works for a swordsmith, my hubbys boss 
is (finally) seriously thinking of adding a busk dagger to his ilne of 
weapons. This after my nagging him for 3 years. The questions I have 
are-would you as re-enactors/recreationists be interested in owning a busk 
dagger, what price range would the corsetiers on list be willing to pay, what 
would you look for in one (size range, materials for the sheathe, length of 
actual dagger, would a dagger be best or would a stilletto be preferrred 
etc). Please let me know either on or off list.
In Service,
Lady G
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From: Andrea Gideon <andrea@gideonfamily.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] 2.) Toddler Tunics
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 11:13:17 -0500
Status: RO

>
> I get to garb my grandson!  Anthony, who is 22 months
> old and my pride and joy (he's brilliant, charming,
> funny & handsome, I tell you!!), gets to have a tunic
> made so he can come to a couple of events with me.  I
> plan to make a basic T-tunic, but I'm not sure how
> long and how "full" to make it.  I'm thinking of
> making it fairly straight and slit up the sides to
> wear over some plain "legging-style" pants.  (He's
> still in diapers.) Any suggestions?
>
> Iohanna the Harper

At that age, I made my son A-line tunics that reached almost to the
floor, with really full sleeves.  In the begining, he wore them with no
pants (in the summer) and as he grew, he could add the pants.  With no
pants, made diaper changes very easy.
Giovanna

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 20:44:56 2002
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From: Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:45:43 -0600
Status: RO

At 07:38 AM 1/16/2002, you wrote:
> > Bjarne wrote:
> > >I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!
>
>I object to this many Brits can cook, very well thank you ! You hatred of
>our food is a personal response and cannot be disagreed with, but not the
>ability of a whole nation to cook please !

I think Bjarne's response is classic of what many visitors to the UK 
have.  I am *convinced* you can have good food in the UK, although I 
haven't found the spots.  I suspect the good food is often found in the 
families and private homes, and that the restaurants where you can find 
great *british* fare aren't all that current.  I've done lots of pubs in my 
4 times in Scotland/Wales/England, but of course, nowhere near enough to be 
able to judge the whole thing.  I can just say that there were no memorable 
meals at any of those pubs...

But phew, this *is* off topic...  :-)


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:40:57 -0600
Status: RO


>As to the Toad in the Hole, your guess is as good as
>mine.  But there is no doubt it tastes great.

Toad in the hole is actually good farmer's sausage cooked in yorkshire 
pudding, not just "pastry".  If you're not familiar with it, it's worth 
trying.  *real* good. :-)


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 20:46:52 2002
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:23:02 -0500
Status: RO

Actually - I've helped costume strippers... they do have, shall we say, 
specific needs?

I worked several years in a costume rental place for Halloween. This 
place also, the rest of the year, did uniforms for theme restaurants and 
the like, and a lot of custom work. One of their clients was a 
"gentleman's club" where they costumed the waitresses. High class strip 
joint.

Anyhow, one year one of their dancers came in. She wanted a Halloween 
costume for her routine on the day, and had gotten our address from the 
waitresses. She very delicately explained her needs to me... and we 
found a bunch of things and took them in the dressing area where she 
tried them on, and then tried them off, so to speak. I arranged for the 
alterations she needed, told the machine operator I'd explain later when 
she argued that things were too short, too tight... Nice girl, actually. 
Had the sense to come in before the season got busy, so she could have 
my time and some privacy. Started with an almost lady-like look, though 
just that bit too short...

We had a few others, too, less elegant, took less trouble over it, got 
glitzier, more vulgar looking costumes, more what you think of. Though 
one of them came in with her husband!

Anne


Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>Hey - strippers can make good money.  Not much costume... ;)
>



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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:54:45 EST
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In a message dated 1/15/02 9:35:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lisleong@k12.hi.us writes:


> On almost every sleeveless
> garment (and living in the tropics, there are many), the armhole gapes
> about six inches below my actual armpit.  I don't think my arms are any
> skinnier than average.  Do other people find this to be the case or is it
> my body type?  I have a very flat ribcage

       I do not have a flat anything but do have the same problem with the 
armholes.  I know to make them smaller when I use a commercial pattern (not 
very often) and when I buy something sleeveless, I make sure it is possible 
to fix the armhole or buy it to wear as a jumper only.  It is really stupid 
of them to make these things so open that everyone can check out your bra 
when you lift your arm.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/15/02 9:35:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, lisleong@k12.hi.us writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">On almost every sleeveless
<BR>garment (and living in the tropics, there are many), the armhole gapes
<BR>about six inches below my actual armpit. &nbsp;I don't think my arms are any
<BR>skinnier than average. &nbsp;Do other people find this to be the case or is it
<BR>my body type? &nbsp;I have a very flat ribcage</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I do not have a flat anything but do have the same problem with the armholes. &nbsp;I know to make them smaller when I use a commercial pattern (not very often) and when I buy something sleeveless, I make sure it is possible to fix the armhole or buy it to wear as a jumper only. &nbsp;It is really stupid of them to make these things so open that everyone can check out your bra when you lift your arm.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 11:55:09 -0600
Status: RO

>From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Well! yes it was a joke, but it is true that it is hard for a tourist >in 
>London to find places with good british food.

All things consider, when trying not to starve wandering about by myself in 
England (I didn't out of England so I can't speak for the rest of Britain) I 
found a number of small restaurants and pubs that served very good food.  
Certainly, as might be expected, I didn't like everything I tried -- and 
things made in different places by different people were frequently 
completely different (some for the better, some for the worse).  So much so, 
that aside from the occasional forays into American food (London being 
replete with McDonalds and KFC), I didn't have time to try anything OTHER 
than English food.

Now, it's true that the cooking isn't generally terribly -complex-, and I 
think the poor reputation may have come from having made a national cuisine 
out of "basic home cooking", but what the heck - I come from someplace where 
"biscuits and gravy' and 'grits' are considered normal food.

Marc

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:27:06 +0100
Status: RO

Hi
Yes i se it was a bad thing to say! I am sorry if i offended you!
I must admit, it was carelessly of me to say that british in genneral 
dont know how to cook!
Please forgive me!

Bjarne

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:23:40 +0100
Status: RO

Dear List.
I have ben thinking a lot lately. Making costumes have ben a very 
passionate thing for me, but i think that i want to give it up.
I have supplied friends, socalled friends with costumes and i have 
worked many many hours.  It has ben fun, but now i dont know any more. 
When i count all the work and se what i have ben paid for doing it, it 
is a laughing stock buisines. Perhaps it is my own faults because i have 
not ben able to sell myself properly, and those people i have made 
costumes for didnt say: Hey that is way two cheap! You must have more!
It has ben ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house 
sometimes have ben a mess all because i have not had the time! Really i 
quit!
But i want to stay with you. It is rather fun to discuss costumes with 
you, i enjoy it very much.
But it mostly wil be as a lurker.

Bjarne
    

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:51:01 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:56 PM -0500 1/15/02, LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
>The inspector came this morning. He took scrapings from various parts of the
>house and put them in test tubes, added some chemicals and came out with
>orange bits that dropped to the bottom of the tubes. This is apparantly a
>good thing. He said all we have to do is pressure wash the house with a
>fungicide, then sand and paint the wood rather than stain. Moderately
>expensive and vaguely time consuming but the house gets to stay and so do we!
>Does anyone out there have the vaguest idea how happy and relieved I am right
>now? I hope everyone has as good a day as mine has proved thus far.
>Thanks for all the e-mails and support.

Having been through (limited) dry rot problems in the past, I imagine 
you're feeling about the same as when the doctor says, "It wasn't 
malignant after all, and we seem to have gotten all of it."

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:25:39 +0000
Status: RO

leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote
>Hi, All. I think what Sharon was trying to say, in so many words, is what the
>costume folks for "Braveheart" should have gotten, which is that the Scots were
>wearing pretty much what everyone else in Europe was wearing in the 13th Cent..
>The Highlanders were probably a few years behind, not because of any culturally
>bigoted reasons, just because they were at the end of the earth, fashion-wise,
>although you can argue that the Greenlanders of  the 14th cent. managed to
>mantain their fashion sense even to the end (thanks, Marc, for your
>contributions to this effort). 

Mike (and Marc?)

This may have been just a throwaway remark, but can you explain?  I'm
looking for evidence to put to those who think they can wear Hjerolfsnes
styles for 12th century, because, you know, Greenland was so far away,
it was really behind the times (grrr).  Is there evidence of similar
styles in mainland Europe?

Jean

-- 
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:31:07 +0000
Status: RO

Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com> wrote
>> Also for those of us in the smaller sizes no-one
>> realises that we can have curves too, 
>
>Now that reminds me of a tale.  A certain bride of my acquaintance decided
>that she & all her bridesmaids would be wearing 1902 gowns. (Lovely dresses,
>lovely wedding, too.)  During the process we made corsets, petticoats,
>skirts & chemises.  Early on in the corset-making process, one valiant,
>non-sewing bridesmaid asked the bride what "this piece" was for.  Bride
>carefully explained the concept of gussets and Edwardian corset shapes.
>Bride then said "We all need them, except for Cin who can leave the gussets
>out".  Bride now claims that I, in a fit of pique replied "I have tits, too
>ya know!" 
>--cin
>Cynthia in Tokyo 

I know how you feel.  I was getting measured for a bra once, and the
assistant said I was an A cup.  I said "Oh good, I've always been a AA
til now".  She looked back at her tape measure and said sneerily "Well,
just."  Gee, thanks for making me feel good!
-- 
Jean Waddie
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References: <02fa01c19e93$2f0c4940$df104ed5@melaniew>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 15:58:03 -0500
Status: RO

The "hatred" British food may also be affected by our "American-ness".

I still remember when I went to London on a school trip-- they tried to feed
us "American" food.  I would have much preferred "local" food, but we
weren't considered cultured enough for it.

   What we GOT was hockey puck burgers with NOTHING on them, soggy fries,
and, I believe, dill pickles.  It WAS horrible-- but then, I'm sure the
hotel staff was appalled that they had to cook such "things".

If that was my sole exposure to British food, I would never have eaten
anything resembling it again. . .

However, their NAMES are another thing entirely. . .

    A friend (in the SCA) is now living part of the time in Britain and was
rather stunned when he and his wife were asked at a pub- "Will you be having
fagots?"  (He replied- no, I think we'll be eating alone. . .  *shaking head
woefully*, you have to know the man. . .)  Turns out it was the meal at the
pub that night.  One of the other nights, they declined the "pudding" after
one of the locals told them it was wonderful, made with fresh pig's blood!
(it turned out to be blood sausage).

Bubble and squeak and Toad in the hole are some of the other odd one's I've
heard. . . .

Lyn Greaves

** A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.


----- Original Message -----
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British


> > Bjarne wrote:
> > >I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!
>
> I object to this many Brits can cook, very well thank you ! You hatred of
> our food is a personal response and cannot be disagreed with, but not the
> ability of a whole nation to cook please !
>
> Mel
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 20:49:41 2002
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10201160937170.22015-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:10:09 -0000
Status: RO

Hi there,
I can perhaps save a bit of time here; the passage Robin refers to is
usually erroneously attributed to Stephen Gosson, a failed playwright turned
clergyman and hence a notorious writer on the evils of plays and players.
No-one knows the true author of the passage; Heloise Seneschal, a fellow
member of the Renaissance Drama Research Group at the Shakespeare Institute,
is the world authority on Gosson...
best wishes
Stevie

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "H-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question


>
> On Wed, 16 Jan 2002, Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
>
> > Did they put a busk in 16th century corsets?
>
> This isn't my period, and I'm sure it depends on when in the 16th century
> you're talking about, and where, but I do remember running across a
> reference in an English satirical poem criticizing women's fashion from
> the very end of the century. Speaking *strictly* from memory, it was
> almost certainly "Pleasant Quippes for Upstart Newfangle Gentlewomen," and
> the verse in question went something like "The bonnie busk, which holds
> down flat, the bed wherein the babe doth breed" and went on from there.
>
> If there is demand, I will dig out the reference and date.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:15:12 -0500
Status: RO

At 08:45 PM 01/14/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Same here.  For instance: A size 0 jeans at Abercrombie & Fitch fits me like
>a size 2 Gap jeans.  Except, the size 2 Gap has a reasonable inseam of about
>27 inches, where the A&F size 0 has the 32" inseam. 

(snip)
That's why I buy men's Levis... you can buy them in the waist and inseam
measurement you want, and they fit every time.  I got frustrated with
women's jeans long ago.

-- Mara

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Subject: Re:[h-cost] 1.) Bubble & Squeak   2.) Toddler Tunics
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:26:41 GMT
Status: RO

In most historic periods when breeches were worn, boys weren't put into them until after they had been potty trained. Since your grandson isn't toilet trained yet, I'd suggest that you just skip the breeches/trews/pants altogether and just put him in a longish tunic (short enough to walk in but as long as possible other than that) and call it good. 


Karen
(who thinks that period solutions were often the best) 







---------- Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes:

I get to garb my grandson!  Anthony, who is 22 months
old and my pride and joy (he's brilliant, charming,
funny & handsome, I tell you!!), gets to have a tunic
made so he can come to a couple of events with me.  I
plan to make a basic T-tunic, but I'm not sure how
long and how "full" to make it.  I'm thinking of
making it fairly straight and slit up the sides to
wear over some plain "legging-style" pants.  (He's
still in diapers.) Any suggestions?

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

=====


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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Strippers (was:Re: [h-cost] jeanne@parrotfantasy.com)
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:00:02
Status: RO

Yes, they can. I knew someone who put herself through college that way. 
However, her comment to me was: "It's experience I am NOT putting on my 
resume!"

She made her own costumes. I still think of this as I'm making something: 
"as a stripper, how would I get out of this easily and quickly?" It can be 
quite funny!

Mary/Katerine

>Hey - strippers can make good money.  Not much costume... ;)
>
> >But to think she's a stripper.... HOW DEPRESSING is that?
>
>Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
>/----\   /---\))
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 2.) Toddler Tunics
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 16:42:54 -0500
Status: RO

>
> From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
>
>
> I get to garb my grandson!  Anthony, who is 22 months
> old and my pride and joy (he's brilliant, charming,
> funny & handsome, I tell you!!), gets to have a tunic
> made so he can come to a couple of events with me.  I
> plan to make a basic T-tunic, but I'm not sure how
> long and how "full" to make it.  I'm thinking of
> making it fairly straight and slit up the sides to
> wear over some plain "legging-style" pants.  (He's
> still in diapers.) Any suggestions?

Well, first and most important question is "is he still crawling?"  Yes, I know that just about any almost two year old walks mostly, but some spend enough time on their hands and knees (mostly for fun, but...) that that's something to take
into consideration... and make it short enough to work for that.

If he's not one who likes to do that...  What I did was take a size 4 pattern, put tucks on the shoulder (I don't remember if I had 2 or 3 tucks to begin with), make the sleeves rectangular so that hemming and letting down wouldn't be a
problem, and then made the bottom as long as I dared (about 5 inches off the ground) and the hem as deep as seemed reasonable.  And yes, it fit him for just over 2 years.

If it's a bit long right now, most kids won't care...as long as it's short enough not to be stepped on by mistake (the 5 inches should take care of that, unless you'll be places with steps... in which case use a light enough fabric that the
t-tunic can be tucked into the top of the pants (bloused out a lot :-)  for the time being).  If it ends up a bit short in a year or two, doesn't matter... if it's worn with pants.

The size 4 type pattern will give room to move for a younger child (with the tucks to keep it manageable for the arms), and being shorter won't bug the larger child.

Oh, and one of the "Greatest Story/Nativity" patterns one of the generic pattern companies puts out uses a pattern that differs from my "real" pattern only in that they pretty much put the gusset in the armpit of the pattern for ease.  Not all
of them work that way... if you want the number and company, e-mail me and I'll leaf through the mess in the dining room (DH keeps saying he wants the dining room back... not that we'd ever eat in there... so I have no real incentive to clean
up the sewing stuff completely....).

I'm thinking that the tunic is a bit under 2 feet wide, flat at the bottom... but wouldn't swear by it... probably closer to 1.5 feet.  Unfortunately, it got put away with some other stuff for a while, and I haven't gotten to that size to go
through to send my nephew stuff yet.

-Elisabeth

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From: Kate <ailithmac@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: British food
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 15:27:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> Bjarne wrote:
>I hate brittish food,  they cant cook!

I dunno about that, Bjarne. The food that I had while visiting London
a couple of years ago was very tasty. I had heard all of the stories
about "nasty, bland, British food," but much to my surprise and
delight, didn't find it to be any of those things.

It *was* different--the ground meats (sausage and the one hamburger I
had) had very different textures than I'm used to here in the US. The
British sausage and burger were very finely ground--the sausages and
burgers at home are very coarse in comparison.

Other than that, I found the cuisine that I tried to be wonderfully
prepared, beautifully presented and very yummy! :-)

Of course, I love to try new foods, so that may have some bearing on
my experience. I guess it's all a matter of what your expectations
are. If you have none, then you are almost always surprised (usually
pleasantly)! :-)


kate


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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:46:32 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:24 PM 01/14/2002 -0700, Sue wrote:
>Funny....I have the exact opposite problem of the orginal poster's
>sister....I am (at the moment) a rather plus, plus size and average
>height (5'5"), but I have really short arms and legs (height is all in
>my torso). (snip)

Aint' figures funny?  You'd never know it from your costume pictures.  They
all look _lovely_!

-- Mara

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:05:32 -0500
Status: RO

At 02:51 AM 01/15/2002 +0800, you wrote:
>Hi Mara,
>
>Do you happen to remember where you found those references?  I'm trying to
see if I can trace it back even further than the 18th c.  Ideally, it would
be nice to see if they're documentable prior to the 16th century, but I'm
not holding my breath on that one.  Since most of the corset history books
focus primarily on whale bone or reed stiffening, this is sort of difficult
to document.  Thanks for the info!
>
>Sarah

Sarah,
I thought I'd seen a reference in an article in the Costume Society (of
England), "Some Aspects of the use of non-fashionable stays", by P. and
R.A. Mactaggart, pub. 1974.  I finally found my copy of the article though,
and can't find the reference.

What I have seen references to are 18th c. corded garments called 'jumps'
or sometimes 'waistcoats' (in England and the American colonies) which are
worn by women who are ill or pregnant, or for extra warmth in bed or over
one's stays/under a jacket or gown.  Some (very lower class) women wore
them in place of stays; the references to those women imply that they
didn't give much support (they're called slatterns, which implies either
slut and/or slob).

A similar garment was worn in France, called a _corset blanc_.  As you can
see from the following web site, this is a quilted waistcoat-type garment
that usually appears in lots of what someone called "18th c. pin-up"
pictures, not as a primary outer garment, with the exception of the woman
in the first picture; in that location, the corset blanc apparently became
part of their regional costume, with a very cut-away jacket worn over it.
As far as other uses, I can't read French well enough to tell if this
garment was used in place of stays in French Canada; looks like it, though.
 Translation, anyone?
http://100associes.free.fr/CadreExpo.html

Here's an article on the subject of waistcoats/jumps:
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com/waistct.htm

A later documentable example of corded stays would be the corsets that were
worn in the Empire/Regency period -- those were not infrequently corded,
with a busk in front for additional stiffness/support. 

Regards,
Mara

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:46:06 -0500
Status: RO

<giggle > Not much costume, but you sure can charge them a lot for that
1/4 yard of spandex.....
   And it's kinda fun to see how you can use the most sequins and
fringe.  ;-)

   Crissy
( who admits to having a varied and sundry costume making past.....)


Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> Hey - strippers can make good money.  Not much costume... ;)
>
> >But to think she's a stripper.... HOW DEPRESSING is that?
>
> Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:26:38 -0800
Status: RO


busk len of 24" ?!  From top of corset to more than 1/2 way down my thigh.
Really?
--cin

> The Dorothea Sabina von Neuberg moire pair of bodies (corset) 
> has a 24"x2" casing for a busk and is dated 1598. > 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sillly corset tale
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:38:14 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 16/1/02 8:24:15 PM, anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk writes:
<< I know how you feel.  I was getting measured for a bra once, and the
assistant said I was an A cup.  I said "Oh good, I've always been a AA
til now".  She looked back at her tape measure and said sneerily "Well,
just."  Gee, thanks for making me feel good!
-- 
Jean Waddie >>

This tale may make you feel even better >bg<- (please keep in mind-I was 5'9" 
at the time and Barb was 4'10") One Valentines Day some friends of mine and I 
were going to go to Sea World. We spent the night at Barb's, all 9 of us. her 
puppy decided she liked the shirt I'd packed to wear that day and thanks to 
the guys deciding that I'd look GREAT in spaghetti, the shirt I'd worn the 
night before wasn't exactly wearable. I borrowed a t-shirt of Barb's. Not a 
major prob since she was a bit over weight and I 'd recently hit 115 due to 
illness. The shirt was too thin so I had to borrow a bra, not an issue under 
most circumstances since a tank top/camisole usually did the trick. I 
borrowed it from Barb, it was a 32 AAA, I had to stuff it with tissues 
because it bagged on me. I'd have killed for an A cup. All day they kept fake 
sneezing and asking me for a tissue. I finally got my fill of it and wrapped 
it around the ball I was supposed to toss to Shamoo. Grrr
Best, 
Lady G
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:41:07 -0800
Status: RO


>I worked several years in a costume rental place for Halloween. This 
>place also, the rest of the year, did uniforms for theme restaurants and 
>the like, and a lot of custom work. One of their clients was a 
>"gentleman's club" where they costumed the waitresses. High class strip 
>joint.
>

I had a similar experience working in a costume store.  One of our most
memorable projects was the obviously highly succesful...err..."manager"  who
came in with his stable of gourgeous women (I was going to say "ladies", but
believe me, it would not be appropriate), and had us costume them as a sheik
and his harem.

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:49:53 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 16/1/02 8:44:13 PM, Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com writes:

<< busk len of 24" ?!  From top of corset to more than 1/2 way down my thigh. 
Really?

--cin >>

Sorry I misread it, it's 2 to the inch so it's 12 inches by 2 inches. I'm 
going to put an invisible smiley somewhere in your post. Really hope there 
was one there to start with.
Lady G
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:09:03 -0600
Status: RO

Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> busk len of 24" ?!  From top of corset to more than 1/2 way down my thigh.
> Really?
> --cin
> 
> > The Dorothea Sabina von Neuberg moire pair of bodies (corset)
> > has a 24"x2" casing for a busk and is dated 1598. >

12", not 24"--the scale for the corset is different from the rest of the patterns.

Melanie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 21:48:24 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
References: <866D7CEB7BC74CC44A994112A04A7135@Kimberly.Antiquarum.zzn.com> <3C3EF4BC.2690EBC@faucet.net> <3C41D58B.7090902@bigpond.com> <3C40DE79.F99FD96F@faucet.net> <3C43BAC6.6080703@bigpond.com>
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:18:41 -0600
Status: RO

Claire Clarke wrote:
> 
> >  In addition, there's the possible-v-back issue (see Holbein's
> > sketch of the Unknown Lady from 1535, front and back), which would make
> > an acute angle necessary and help tremendously in keeping the straps up,
> > especially considering the weight of Tudor sleeves.
> 
> Mine does have a v-back, which probably adds to the problem....

But that should _help_ the problem, because the straps go from the sides
of your chest in the front to a v in the back, so there's automatically
an acute angle with the neckline and there's no way they can fall off
your shoulders.  It's just a matter of proper fitting to get them to lay right.

> > If you're anywhere near the Milwaukee area, I would be happy to assist
> > in any way I can with the fitting.  I have Garb Workdays twice a month
> > in the costume shop where I work.
> 
> Thank you kindly, but nowhere near Milwaukee. Not remotely.
> 
> Claire (in Australia)

Ooh, that is a little far!  Well, hopefully there's someone closer to
you who can help.  One thing I've learned is that you just can't fit
things on yourself.  Not sixteenth century things, anyway.

Good luck!
Melanie
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From: "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:21:26 -0800
Status: RO


------=_NextPart_001_0004_01C19EC2.FDEA9DA0
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I know what you mean.  I love to sew, and making costumes is a passion wi=
th me.  I used to sew for anyone who even just *hinted* that I should mak=
e them something.  Some understood the effort and time and expense.  Most=
 didn't.  

But now, I seldom sew for others, outside of my family (SCA) and even hav=
e turned down sewing for pay, even though they don't quibble or argue abo=
ut the fact I charge more than $25.00 per hour for sewing.  Most even pay=
 me what I tell them and let me know they think they are getting a bargai=
n. In fact, don't even remember the last time someone tried to make me re=
duce my fees. 

I guess the problem is with me, in my case is that I'm so overwhelmed wit=
h my life right now and trying to focus on other things than sewing for o=
thers just isn't possible.  

I guess when my life is not so chaotic, I'll feel more like sewing for ot=
hers again.  Maybe.

Hugs, dear.  Sounds like you might need it right about now.

Gia/Giacinta 

----- Original Message -----
From: Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 6:36 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] giving up making costumes

Dear List.
I have ben thinking a lot lately. Making costumes have ben a very
passionate thing for me, but i think that i want to give it up.
I have supplied friends, socalled friends with costumes and i have
worked many many hours.  It has ben fun, but now i dont know any more.
When i count all the work and se what i have ben paid for doing it, it
is a laughing stock buisines. Perhaps it is my own faults because i have
not ben able to sell myself properly, and those people i have made
costumes for didnt say: Hey that is way two cheap! You must have more!
It has ben ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house
sometimes have ben a mess all because i have not had the time! Really i
quit!
But i want to stay with you. It is rather fun to discuss costumes with
you, i enjoy it very much.
But it mostly wil be as a lurker.

Bjarne


--


Leif Drews
=C5boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  K=F8benhavn V

Bjarne Drews
=C5boulevard 5,3.th
1635 K=F8benhavn V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>I know what yo=
u mean.&nbsp; I love to sew, and making costumes is a passion with me.&nb=
sp; I used to sew for anyone who even just *hinted* that I should make th=
em something.&nbsp; Some understood the effort and time and expense.&nbsp=
; Most didn't.&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>But now, I seldom sew =
for others, outside of my family (SCA) and even have turned down sewing&n=
bsp;for pay, even though they don't quibble or argue about the fact I cha=
rge more than $25.00 per hour for sewing.&nbsp; Most even pay me what I t=
ell them and let me know they think they are getting a bargain.&nbsp;In f=
act, don't even remember the last time someone tried to make me reduce my=
 fees.&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I guess the problem is with me,=
 in my case is that&nbsp;I'm so overwhelmed with my life right now and tr=
ying to focus on other things than sewing for others just isn't possible.=
&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I guess when my life is not so chaot=
ic, I'll feel more like sewing for others again.&nbsp; Maybe.</DIV> <DIV>=
&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Hugs, dear.&nbsp; Sounds like you might need it right a=
bout now.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbs=
p;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARG=
IN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV st=
yle=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D=
"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Leif D=
rews</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, Januar=
y 16, 2002 6:36 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-cos=
tume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-c=
ost] giving up making costumes</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Dear List.<BR>I hav=
e ben thinking a lot lately. Making costumes have ben a very<BR>passionat=
e thing for me, but i think that i want to give it up.<BR>I have supplied=
 friends, socalled friends with costumes and i have<BR>worked many many h=
ours.&nbsp; It has ben fun, but now i dont know any more.<BR>When i count=
 all the work and se what i have ben paid for doing it, it<BR>is a laughi=
ng stock buisines. Perhaps it is my own faults because i have<BR>not ben =
able to sell myself properly, and those people i have made<BR>costumes fo=
r didnt say: Hey that is way two cheap! You must have more!<BR>It has ben=
 ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house<BR>sometimes ha=
ve ben a mess all because i have not had the time! Really i<BR>quit!<BR>B=
ut i want to stay with you. It is rather fun to discuss costumes with<BR>=
you, i enjoy it very much.<BR>But it mostly wil be as a lurker.<BR><BR>Bj=
arne<BR><BR><BR>--<BR><BR><BR>Leif Drews<BR>=C5boulevard 5, 3 th<BR>1635&=
nbsp; K=F8benhavn V<BR><BR>Bjarne Drews<BR>=C5boulevard 5,3.th<BR>1635 K=F8=
benhavn V<BR><BR>tlf. 35 37 13 70<BR><BR>My new domain name: http://www.m=
y-drewscostumes.dk<BR><BR>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph<BR=
><BR>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html<BR><BR=
><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costume mailing=
 list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listin=
fo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:36:49 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. Thanks, all of you that sent me back replies. I have what I need to get
going now. Mike T.



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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:45:06 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> On Wed, 16 Jan 2002, Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
> > Did they put a busk in 16th century corsets?

Try this page for you answer:
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/corsetpage/history.html
There are not many remaining corsets from the 16th
century, two, if I remember corectlly, the one on this
page and the one from Elizabeth's effigy.  The first,
a German corset, had a busk, and the second did not,
but laced up the front.  I have made three corsets,
one without and two with, and have found them to be
quite comfortable, but I have little or no bust. 
Please feel free to email me if you any further
questions.
Margaret


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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:47:47 -0800
Status: RO


Sounds like you're giving up the business side and keeping costumes as a
hobby.  Please, stay and chat with us.  I love your encouragement.

And by the way, you were absolutely right about the bodice on my
merveilleuse.  Too full. Too many gathers.  I was trying to "improve on
nature".  Hopeless, really.  Just pinned in, a flat bodice really does look
better.
--cin in Tokyo

> It has ben ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house 
> sometimes have ben a mess all because i have not had the 
> time! Really i quit! But i want to stay with you. It is rather 
> fun to discuss costumes with 
> you, i enjoy it very much. But it mostly wil be as a lurker.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:55:41 -0800
Status: RO


Of course, it was meant as gasping in wonderment. It was not intended to be
nasty...  not fond of the smiley habit, tho'.
--cin

> Sorry I misread it, it's 2 to the inch so it's 12 inches by 2 
> inches. I'm 
> going to put an invisible smiley somewhere in your post. 
> Really hope there was one there to start with.
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:12:47 -0800
Status: RO

  I have made three corsets,
>one without and two with, and have found them to be
>quite comfortable, but I have little or no bust. 


I have a bust, but I also have a pronounced abdomen, and my attempts to wear
a corset with a busk resulted in extreme pain and a huge bruise on my
stomach.  I've concluded that it's not worth the slight improvement of the
line that a busk gives a large figure.

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:30:09 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 16 Jan 2002, Jean Waddie wrote:

> leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote
> >although you can argue that the Greenlanders of  the 14th cent.
> >managed to mantain their fashion sense even to the end (thanks, Marc,
> >for your contributions to this effort). 
> 
> This may have been just a throwaway remark, but can you explain?  I'm
> looking for evidence to put to those who think they can wear
> Hjerolfsnes styles for 12th century, because, you know, Greenland was
> so far away, it was really behind the times (grrr).  Is there evidence
> of similar styles in mainland Europe?

At last year's Medieval Congress, Marc and I constituted two-thirds of a
session on the application of the Greenland finds to costume research. The
take-home message from my part -- and I think from Marc's as well, but
I'll let him verify that -- was that it's not wise to use anything from
Greenland as your *chief* evidence for any particular practice on the
mainland.

Certainly some of the things done in Greenland were done on the mainland,
though not universally. Any chance of correspondence most likely increases
if you are talking about (1) Scandinavia, (2) lower to middle class,
and/or (3) a slightly earlier period than the finds themselves (which are
mostly late 14th-c.). In other words, there is a significant possibility
that some of the techniques and approaches revealed in the Greenland
clothing correlate to some mainland clothing, but probably not to, say,
the clothing of the late 14th-c. French court.

What's more important, though, is that there are almost certainly some
elements and techniques in the Greenland clothing that are *not*
representative of the mainland. The Greenland colonies were very different
from any mainland culture in many aspects that have significant effects on
costume, including economics, available resources, technological level,
trade connections, and degree of influence from other cultures. So there
are probably quite a few elements of the clothing that reflect the unique
circumstances of this community. (Marc can tell you about the likely
effects on shoemaking when you have little wood and metal to spare.)

So some elements probably correspond to the mainland, and others don't.
But which ones?  The only way to tell what elements *do* correlate is to
find corroborative evidence from the mainland, in which case the Greenland
finds can only serve as, in essence, backup documentation for the things
we already have better evidence for. Without that corroboration, we can't
extrapolate freely from Greenland to the mainland with any assurance of
accuracy.

For example: We know the Greenlanders used gores, and we know the
mainlanders used gores. We also know that the Greenlanders sometimes used
a large number of gores (based on their appearance in 3 out of
30-something body garments from the Greenland cache). But we have no
equivalent evidence of this sort of gore use from the mainland, and what
evidence we do have argues against it. Therefore we can't use the
Greenland garments, by themselves, to justify a conclusion that
mainlanders used a multiplicity of gores. (My personal feeling was that
the oft-cited 12-gore* garments were not the height of fashion even in
Greenland, but simply reflected thrifty use of the occasional narrow piece
of fabric in an economy that could not afford waste. But that's another
lecture for another day, and some of you have heard it already.)

To answer Jean: I would by no means consider the Greenland garments any
sort of evidence for 12th century. There were significant fashion changes
between 12th and 13th century on the mainland, and then between 13th and
14th century. Even on very basic criteria, the Greenland styles bear
little resemblance to 12th century, some resemblance to 13th century, and
stronger resemblance to early 14th century mainland styles.

--Robin

*Yes, 12 gores, not 10. SCA'ers: The TI article miscounted.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 22:52:48 2002
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Where the "Titanic" pictures are posted...
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:17:55 -0500
Status: RO

I just went and looked at the pictures.  Is there any chance of someone
making a pattern for the coat?  Or will we have to wait for the booklet and
try to make it from that?  Will there be diagrams?
-Megan
who really likes the coat but who looks terrible in pale pink so buying a
copy in pink might not be such a hot idea

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 3:16 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where the "Titanic" pictures are posted...


Thank you.

Jennie Chancey writes, in a message sent 11:35 AM 1/15/02 -0500:
>For those who missed it the first time around, the pictures of the original
>"jump" dress and "sinking" coat are at
>http://www.sensibility.com/titanic/realphotos.htm -- and I just added two
>corrections given to me by the original owners. One is that the bottom
layer
>of beaded circles is sewn to the black tulle overlay and not through the
>silk. The other is that the buttons on the pink coat do not have soutache
on
>the buttons but some kind of silk floss sewn over button forms.
>
>:-)
>
>Jennie Chancey
>
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
>http://www.sensibility.com
>winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
   //// \\\
  ////-@@\\\
 ((((   7 )))
  (((  <> ))))
     )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 23:05:40 2002
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corded Bodices/Corsets
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:26:39 -0800
Status: RO

Lovely page, thankyouverymuch!  I dont have time to translate the whole
thing...
Nothing about Canada.  France only. Sorta strange since the living history
group specializes in the French-Canadian & Louisana colonies.  Anyway, only
paintings of the corset blanc that they could find were French.

Corset Blanc is derived not from the color but from "blanc de baleine".  No
whalebone.  Which isnt exactly the case, they say. Existing corset blancs
have whale bone at the CF & CB. Specifically goes into a quilted design
called Piqûre de Marseille.
The section "Réalisation" is the "how to" part.  Click the word "patron" for
the pattern. You can probably figure most of that out from the pictures.
They do suggest "baleines métalliques" in place of real whalebone.  Click
pics & they get bigger/better detail.

(sources are l'Encyclopédie de Diderot et d'Alembert. I dont know who
d'Alembert is/was. Or maybe they both wrote the "l'Encyclopédie"?)  

Has links to Penny's & Marquise's websites... gosh, you're famous!
--cin

>  Translation, anyone?
> http://100associes.free.fr/CadreExpo.html
> 
> Here's an article on the subject of waistcoats/jumps:
> http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com/waistct.htm
> 
> A later documentable example of corded stays would be the 
> corsets that were
> worn in the Empire/Regency period -- those were not 
> infrequently corded,
> with a busk in front for additional stiffness/support. 
 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 16 23:07:59 2002
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:20:59 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. Marc, I think this is more your purview, but I suspect the reasoning behind
trying to wear 14th Cent. style clothes and pass them off as 12th Cent. is faulty.
It has been shown that the Greenland clothing is pretty much in keeping with
relatively current styles of the 14th cent., so trying to make them out as 12th
Cent., without researching 12th Cent. clothing itself would not get you anywhere.
There are many resources out there, so raiding another period because the
documentation is there seems a strange way to do historical research. Henk, you
should probably chime in here too, as you can help to direct folks to good
research.  Mike T. (BTW, I can see being perhaps 20 years out of date in some cases,
but 200, I really doubt)

Jean Waddie wrote:

> leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote
> >Hi, All. I think what Sharon was trying to say, in so many words, is what the
> >costume folks for "Braveheart" should have gotten, which is that the Scots were
> >wearing pretty much what everyone else in Europe was wearing in the 13th Cent..
> >The Highlanders were probably a few years behind, not because of any culturally
> >bigoted reasons, just because they were at the end of the earth, fashion-wise,
> >although you can argue that the Greenlanders of  the 14th cent. managed to
> >mantain their fashion sense even to the end (thanks, Marc, for your
> >contributions to this effort).
>
> Mike (and Marc?)
>
> This may have been just a throwaway remark, but can you explain?  I'm
> looking for evidence to put to those who think they can wear Hjerolfsnes
> styles for 12th century, because, you know, Greenland was so far away,
> it was really behind the times (grrr).  Is there evidence of similar
> styles in mainland Europe?
>
> Jean
>
> --
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:29:47 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. Bjarne, I can sympathise with you. I have nowhere near your talent nor
prodigious output of fantastic clothing, yet I can see where you would
become frustrated. You are far too talented to have to accept pittance for
your work. I can only hope that you continue to create beautiful things
because of your love of the art. Many great artists were not appreciated in
their time. Your input and your enthusiasm have been an inspiration, at
least to me. (Sometimes even an embarrassment, as I complain about my poor
little work, and look at those things that you have created in far less
time). One must always follow their muse. Perhaps it is only the cold winter
talking, and a ray of sun will bring you some happiness. Whatever brings you
happiness, I wish you only the best, Cheers, Mike T.



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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:36:14 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. Kirstie Buckland is quite a good source for knit goods, and she has done such
extensive research that we are indebted to her for her work (she and the late
Bishop Rutt, of course). Thank you for your kind words. I am trying slowly to build
up kit for a variety of periods. Perhaps you have met Simon Spalding, also? He has
a wonderful background in the 16th cent., although he is more interested in doing
early 19th cent. nowadays. I will try and find my e-mail addy for Terry (I have it
somewhere) and ask him about the Scots stuff.  Cheers, Mike T.



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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:36:41 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne, many of us on this list do not sew for others much, if at all.  I
only sew for myself and sometimes husband and stepchildren, and not even
much for them.  The problem is time- I don't have enough of it (even though
I am trying to learn yet another time-intensive hobby like bobbin lace) and
even though I have friends who say I should make sewing a job, I don't see
how I could make enough money from it to replace my paying job.  So it must
remain a hobby, at least for now.  I suspect it would not be nearly as much
fun if I *had* to do it instead of choosing to.  Take some time off and sew
for yourself, but please stay on the list.  You don't *have* to sew to be
here- I mostly lurk and learn, myself, (but sometimes wear, shall we say,
unusual shirts with my jeans).
Sounds like you need a hug so here is one for you
*Hugs*
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 3:24 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] giving up making costumes


Dear List.
I have ben thinking a lot lately. Making costumes have ben a very
passionate thing for me, but i think that i want to give it up.
I have supplied friends, socalled friends with costumes and i have
worked many many hours.  It has ben fun, but now i dont know any more.
When i count all the work and se what i have ben paid for doing it, it
is a laughing stock buisines. Perhaps it is my own faults because i have
not ben able to sell myself properly, and those people i have made
costumes for didnt say: Hey that is way two cheap! You must have more!
It has ben ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house
sometimes have ben a mess all because i have not had the time! Really i
quit!
But i want to stay with you. It is rather fun to discuss costumes with
you, i enjoy it very much.
But it mostly wil be as a lurker.

Bjarne


--


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:57:09 -0700
Status: RO

You must be thinking of another Sue on the list...AFAIK, and I'm pretty
vigilant, there _are_ no costume pictures of me.  I've never been
photogenic, and now I'm really sensitive about how I look, which is
pretty bad.  I'm seneschal for our SCA Barony, and I won't even give
permission for a photo of me on our website.  Maybe if I look okay
someday I wouldn't mind.....
--Sue (who posted the quoted comment)

Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> At 10:24 PM 01/14/2002 -0700, Sue wrote:
> >Funny....I have the exact opposite problem of the orginal poster's
> >sister....I am (at the moment) a rather plus, plus size and average
> >height (5'5"), but I have really short arms and legs (height is all in
> >my torso). (snip)
> 
> Aint' figures funny?  You'd never know it from your costume pictures.  They
> all look _lovely_!
> 
> -- Mara
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Thrums, was  Hemp
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 00:08:07 -0500
Status: RO

Ouch! Good one, Cyn! Ann, I don't know what came first, the thrums or
the cap, but, yes, you would take the small bits of yarn and hook them
through the knitted body of the cap (a knitted one, kind of like a Navy
watchcap, sometimes calle a Monmouth cap in England due to where they
were commonly made). when fulled, they would bush out and provide
insulation to the head. You can see one on the head of the English
sailor in Vecellios 1589 "de gli Habiti antichi..." (Dover 1977 pg 84,
print #275). Mike T.

Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> They're very small. You put one on each thrum for warmth.
> --cin
> Cynthia not particularly helpful in Tokyo

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:04:17 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:19 AM -0500 1/16/02, A F Murphy wrote:
>That would be small!
>
>I should clarify. Thrums, as weavers use the word, at least, are the 
>pieces of warp thread left when you cut a finished piece of cloth 
>off the loom. You can have a lot of thread left over, but it is all 
>in these pieces, and how much fringe can you really use? But it 
>drives us crazy to throw it all out. I was wondering if this cap was 
>something devised to use these short threads.

Yes, although it's kind of a lot of work. There are several methods, 
used in different times and places, but basically, groups of thrums 
are stitched or knotted into the cap as it's being made (usually 
knitted). These stick out and form a sort of "shag", adding extra 
insulation. There are also thrummed mittens. Sometimes these things 
are worn with the shag inside (in which case they have to be made 
extra large to provide room), sometimes outside.

Actual thrums can be used for this if they're wool or silk or 
otherwise something that will be warm and fluffy. Unspun or lightly 
spun wool roving is also sometimes used.

Of course, it's less labor-intensive if you weave or stitch in longer 
lengths of yarn, then go back and cut them into pile later, but that 
doesn't use your thrums up....
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:22:43 -0700
Status: RO

Uhm....just what does the term "corded" refer to in this case? I'm not
catching the reference, although I'm assuming that maybe they're corded
instead of boned? Am I completely out of line?
--sue
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:31:26 -0800
Status: RO

Bjarne,

	It sounds like a serious case of "burn out".  Happens to a lot of us who
just throw ourselves into making costumes, and enjoy seeing them.  I got
this way after doing all the fitting and patterning for a Renaissance Dance
troop.  My mother had a stroke and I had to go home to take care of my
father.  Best thing I have ever done because it gave me time with people I
loved, something I will never be able to do again, unlike the dresses and
doublets.  When I came back no one had done anything with their costumes
even though I had left careful sewing instructions and all pieces sorted
into individual bags.

	I've been sewing for myself alone for several years now, and I'm ready to
go back and work with others again.  This time though they will be students
not parasites and we will have fun TOGether!

Back off for a while,  stay on this list because I just love the information
and wonderful pictures you give us.

Remember:  "A clean house is a sign of a misspent life" LoL  My favorite
motto

Wanda Pease

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 12:24 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] giving up making costumes


Dear List.
I have ben thinking a lot lately. Making costumes have ben a very
passionate thing for me, but i think that i want to give it up.
I have supplied friends, socalled friends with costumes and i have
worked many many hours.  It has ben fun, but now i dont know any more.
When i count all the work and se what i have ben paid for doing it, it
is a laughing stock buisines. Perhaps it is my own faults because i have
not ben able to sell myself properly, and those people i have made
costumes for didnt say: Hey that is way two cheap! You must have more!
It has ben ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house
sometimes have ben a mess all because i have not had the time! Really i
quit!
But i want to stay with you. It is rather fun to discuss costumes with
you, i enjoy it very much.
But it mostly wil be as a lurker.

Bjarne


--


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] molded Humpen, back on topic
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:22:02 -0800
Status: RO

For some wonderful, if slightly pricey, reproduction historical glassware, you
might want to look at:
http://www.northerner.com/historical_glass.html

I ordered from them last year, and they're great!  Mind you, postage and packing
to the US is a little steep from Sweden, but the packing was perfect and a
rather delicate glass arrived without a scratch.  And a beautiful piece of work,
as well.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of leigh tartaglio
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 8:31 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] molded Humpen, back on topic
>
>
> Hi, Katya, the Romans were using a form of mold (though not with slipcasting)
> to make their Samian Ware (modern archaeological terminology). Egyptians did
> the same with Faience. The Germans were using molds in the 16th Cent for some
> pieces, but in most cases (like the faces and other decorations on the
> ceramics) were usind wooden or ceramic molds for pressed clay items,
> then using
> slip to attach the decorations to the wheel-thrown bodies. Not until
> the advent
> of plaster molds, used to wick away the water, was true slipcasting done.
> Nonetheless, there is a pipeclay (white bodied) piece from the late 16th/early
> 17th cent. in the Phila. Art Museum that has mold seams (probably from the
> aforementioned wooden or ceramic molds). A similar jug/drinking vessel can be
> seen in the Clara Peeters still-life of 1597 in Munich. The name Humpen also
> refers to a fairly large volume (for the period) beaker with straight or
> slightly tapered sides, usually a beer rather than a wine or spirits glass.
> Mike T.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 17 01:17:39 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] sizing and fitting
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:25:59 -0800
Status: RO

A lot of things are cut presupposing a certain bust measurement.  If you don't
fill it up (or overfill, I suppose) well, there it is.  Since I have a very
modest bust, this happens to me all the time.  Even wearing a bra doesn't really
help.  It's al about standardizing for that mythical "average" no one we know
seems to be, I guess.  :-)


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 9:48 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] sizing and fitting
>
>
> Uhm....Could it just be the style of the garment?
> --sue
>
> annora wrote:
>          My fitting bugaboo is armholes.  On almost every sleeveless
> > garment (and living in the tropics, there are many), the armhole gapes
> > about six inches below my actual armpit.  I don't think my arms are any
> > skinnier than average.  Do other people find this to be the case or is it
> > my body type?  I have a very flat ribcage.


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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]  old pattern sizes (was: Still baffled)
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:29:54 -0800
Status: RO

Miles aren't really different in different countries.  Not any more. It just
feels that way, especially on a bicycle.  They're longer everywhere else but
home :)


Maggiros


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of michaela
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 1:33 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] old pattern sizes (was: Still baffled)
>
>
> > > Michaela asked "Does France have smaller inches than everyone
> > > else?" -
> >  well, no, they use metric! I've no idea where they get the figure 38
> from.
> > In the older patterns it seems to mean 1/2 the bust measurement, if
> measured in cm.
>
> But this is a modern jacket. And it would make the jacket barely 76cm round
> the top, which is about my waist measurement. Might be that they take an
> inch to mean 2.4cm rather than 2.5.. I just used my calculator to work that
> out;). I know that miles are different country to country.
> We use metric here too, but dress sizes have always been based on inches, so
> that women here by fabric by the metre but if you buy a pattern it's scaled
> to the inch thing... and bras are say 36A etc, with the cm in brackets.
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 06:56:14 -0000
Status: RO

>Yes i se it was a bad thing to say! I am sorry if i offended you!
I must admit, it was carelessly of me to say that british in genneral
dont know how to cook!
Please forgive me!

Happy to :)

Some pub grub can be bad, and we have an alarming tendancy to not complain
(it isn't British) so you can get highly expensive food which has come
straight out of a packet (ie pre packed) I could take you to a few places
that produce great food. But compared to say France, the consistancy of good
food at reasonable prices isn't around in Britain IMHO. However British home
cooking was, a thing to be proud of, and our tradition is more towards home
cooking than eating out. There is an old farm housewhich used to do
traditional Sunday Lunches which was a real step back in time (yes even the
costume).

Indian resturants are today one of the most popular eat outs & home cooked
meals !

I don't know where you visited ? But we are shown to be losing our home
cooked style and moving towards fast food, with serious health consequences.
Next time you are in the UK if you are anywhere near my area let me know &
I'll see if we can find you some food you like ?

Mel

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 06:57:56 -0000
Status: RO

>Will you be having
fagots?"  

Basically meat balls in gravy

>One of the other nights, they declined the "pudding" after
one of the locals told them it was wonderful, made with fresh pig's blood!
(it turned out to be blood sausage).

Known as Black pudding

Mel



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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:09:08 -0800
Status: RO

Bjarne,

The costuming world would be a much sadder place without your incredible 
work.  I started trying to sell my work because I was doing it anyhow and 
this way I support my fabric habit, but you are truly an artist!!  I'm so 
glad you will stay with us and discuss our projects and hopefully still make 
some now and then Just For Fun.  You are an inspiration and I thank you for 
all you've shared.

Jennifer


>From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
>Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:23:40 +0100
>
>Dear List.
>I have ben thinking a lot lately. Making costumes have ben a very
>passionate thing for me, but i think that i want to give it up.
>I have supplied friends, socalled friends with costumes and i have
>worked many many hours.  It has ben fun, but now i dont know any more.
>When i count all the work and se what i have ben paid for doing it, it
>is a laughing stock buisines. Perhaps it is my own faults because i have
>not ben able to sell myself properly, and those people i have made
>costumes for didnt say: Hey that is way two cheap! You must have more!
>It has ben ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house
>sometimes have ben a mess all because i have not had the time! Really i
>quit!
>But i want to stay with you. It is rather fun to discuss costumes with
>you, i enjoy it very much.
>But it mostly wil be as a lurker.
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>--
>
>
>Leif Drews
>Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>1635  København V
>
>Bjarne Drews
>Åboulevard 5,3.th
>1635 København V
>
>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
>My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] seriously OT British
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:59:12 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net> wrote: >
> I think Bjarne's response is classic of what many
> visitors to the UK 
> have.  I am *convinced* you can have good food in
> the UK, although I 
> haven't found the spots.  I suspect the good food is
> often found in the 
> families and private homes, and that the restaurants
> where you can find 
> great *british* fare aren't all that current.  

I think one of the main problems is that "British"
food isn't fashionable enough and so very few
restaurants do it at all.  Gary Rhodes does do British
food in his restaurants, but be prepared to take out a
second mortgage before you book, this food comes at a
price.  Admitidly it is absolutely beautiful, but when
the starters are frequently over £20 you get an idea
of how much you can expect to pay per person (£75+).

Its a shame really that British food has got such a
bad reputation.  Part of the problem is a traditional
unwillingness to put ourselves forward.  Hence bad
service and poor quality food.

Rachel

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2.) Toddler Tunics
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 09:11:27 +0000
Status: RO

>At that age, I made my son A-line tunics that reached almost to the
>floor, with really full sleeves.  In the begining, he wore them with no
>pants (in the summer) and as he grew, he could add the pants.  With no
>pants, made diaper changes very easy.
>Giovanna

Isn't that exactly what people used to do in reality?


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 17 04:02:19 2002
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From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sizing and fitting
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:23:19 -1000 (HST)
Status: RO

> Believe it or not, that sounds like a bustline problem. Back before
> the fertility drugs gave me a bust, I had the same problem with
> armholes.

	Yep, I think this may be my problem.  Instead of having some of
the garment get pulled forward, it just sags down.  My shoulders aren't
very thick either, which probably contributes.

annora

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 17 04:05:18 2002
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From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:37:57 +0100
Status: RO

Sounds cool!
But wouldn't it be to thick?
If you wear a silk bodice over it would the outer lines show trough?

For me the total length would be 13"and the handel  aboud 5".
I think a leather sheate would be best.
If you want to draw you dagger out when you wear the corset.
If the sheat is made out of wood it may break.
But I am not sure if I am the type to wear such a dagger.
I am too nice ;-)

Greetings,
        Deredere

> On a similar note-My husband mundanely works for a swordsmith, my hubbys boss
> is (finally) seriously thinking of adding a busk dagger to his ilne of
> weapons. This after my nagging him for 3 years. The questions I have
> are-would you as re-enactors/recreationists be interested in owning a busk
> dagger, what price range would the corsetiers on list be willing to pay, what
> would you look for in one (size range, materials for the sheathe, length of
> actual dagger, would a dagger be best or would a stilletto be preferrred
> etc). Please let me know either on or off list.
> In Service,
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  old pattern sizes (was: Still baffled)
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 22:28:02 +1300
Status: RO

> The French have used the metric system for 200 years, so it's unlikely
their dress sizing has *anything* to do with inches.

So? Dress sizes have *not* been around since then. The measurement was
certainly *not* in cm which was my point.
Sizes were standardised some time ago, and countries that used metric and
those that used emperial wound up with the same standard unit in sizes. They
were written in both cm and inches. I think Golden Hands has a nice chart
showing sizes between US, UK, AUS, NZ and EUR. This still doesn't explain
why the tag said 38FRA and 36EUR. Especially if you are trying to say one is
in cm and the other in inches???

> Miles aren't really different in different countries.  Not any more. It
just
> feels that way, especially on a bicycle.  They're longer everywhere else
but
> home :)

This was on a recent programme, I forget which but they were still different
then.

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 05:35:09 -0500
Status: RO

Kate M Bunting wrote:

> >At that age, I made my son A-line tunics that reached almost to the
> >floor, with really full sleeves.  In the begining, he wore them with no
> >pants (in the summer) and as he grew, he could add the pants.  With no
> >pants, made diaper changes very easy.
> >Giovanna
>
> Isn't that exactly what people used to do in reality?
>

Yes they did, but several SCA friends I know with little boys refuse to
dress them in "dresses" and make them wear little tunics and pants.  My
son, now almost 3, will be getting pants for his third birthday, as he is
now working on potty training.

Giovanna

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  old pattern sizes (was: Still baffled)
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:08:28 +0000
Status: RO

All I was trying to say was that standard dress sizes came into use long after metrication in France, and probably in most of Europe, so I doubted whether their sizes were formulated with any reference to Imperial measures.

Michaela wrote:
>> The French have used the metric system for 200 years, so it's unlikely
>>their dress sizing has *anything* to do with inches.

>So? Dress sizes have *not* been around since then. The measurement >was certainly *not* in cm which was my point.
>Sizes were standardised some time ago, and countries that used metric >and those that used emperial wound up with the same standard unit in >sizes. They were written in both cm and inches. I think Golden Hands has >a nice chart showing sizes between US, UK, AUS, NZ and EUR. This still >doesn't explain why the tag said 38FRA and 36EUR. Especially if you are >trying to say one is in cm and the other in inches???



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:18:04 +0000
Status: RO

Cynthia wrote:
>(sources are l'Encyclopédie de Diderot et d'Alembert. I dont know who
>d'Alembert is/was. Or maybe they both wrote the "l'Encyclopédie"?)  

Yes, they did.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Oh Bjarne,  I am not nearly in your class, but I do know what you mean.  I 
was a seamstress for years making regular clothes for other people and never 
had enough nerve to charge what the job was worth.  To make it worse, people 
with plenty of money and expensive fabric and detailed wishes for their 
clothing would try to talk me into doing more for less pay.  I was so happy 
to be able to retire!  There are always going to be people who will take 
advantage of others if they can get away with it.  And there will always be 
people who try to be nice and end up being taken advantage of.  Burnout is 
not just for the people in high tech jobs.  After you take some time off and 
make yourself some things you might feel like doing a costume or two for 
others again.  If not, you will keep busy with your beautiful lace work.  
Don't just lurk on the list though.  We need your expertise.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Oh Bjarne, &nbsp;I am not nearly in your class, but I do know what you mean. &nbsp;I was a seamstress for years making regular clothes for other people and never had enough nerve to charge what the job was worth. &nbsp;To make it worse, people with plenty of money and expensive fabric and detailed wishes for their clothing would try to talk me into doing more for less pay. &nbsp;I was so happy to be able to retire! &nbsp;There are always going to be people who will take advantage of others if they can get away with it. &nbsp;And there will always be people who try to be nice and end up being taken advantage of. &nbsp;Burnout is not just for the people in high tech jobs. &nbsp;After you take some time off and make yourself some things you might feel like doing a costume or two for others again. &nbsp;If not, you will keep busy with your beautiful lace work. &nbsp;Don't just lurk on the list though. &nbsp;We need your expertise.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_4e.50d45ad.29783974_boundary--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for obscure Spanish painting
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 09:40:45 -0500
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Providence Day School
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Whoever was looking for the obscure retable (of course I can't find the
original post) might want to look here:

http://witcombe.sbc.edu/ARTHLinks6.html

There are some good links to Spanish museums, and there are some great
retables in the Valencia site.

Jessamyn

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 09:41:44 -0500
Status: RO



Bjarne:

I used to work for a painting magazine. I never knew how many wonderful --
really WONDERFUL -- painters there are who are not famous artists. Thousands
and thousands of them. I thought that people were either awful painters or
famous artists. I found out that:

a) To become a famous artist, you need more than talent. You have to price
your paintings higher than most people can afford, you have to have an agent
who will find customers for you, and you have to have a lot of luck.

b) Many painters really cannot imagine charging a lot of money for their
paintings. They cannot make themselves charge more money than they could pay
for someone else's paintings, and most of them are not rich.

c) Many, many people are happy painting for fun, and not making money at it.

Perhaps you should rest for a while and make some things just for yourself,
or just for fun. Enjoy sewing! Then after you think about it for a bit, you
can decide whether to charge the money that your work is really worth or to
just keep doing it for fun.

I can tell that you are discouraged, and I would be too! Most artistic
people are not good with money, and most people who are good with money are
not artistic. People who are good at money and art are rare and should be
thankful for their gifts!

Gail Finke


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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:09:29 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:01 PM 01/15/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>That I wasn't aware of...  Alas, it is not possible for me to do so.  Too 
>many reasons to explain ehre, but one of them is health 
>concerns...  <shrug>  Perhaps I should look into a different area, like 
>become an inuit? :-)

Yeah, we're not quite as hardy, being acclimated to indoor heating and
such...  :D

>As I just said on another answer on this topic, I'm not so much looking at 
>first hand pictures.  Rather, at recreated garb based on folks such as 
>McClintock, Dunbar et als.  Not quite as accurate as possible, yet better 
>than nothing.

No, sorry, I haven't made up any clothes for that period; it's rather
earlier than the period I'm doing right now (1745 Scotland) and quite a bit
later than the period I used to do (Iron Age Ireland).  I've got lots of
other costume projects on the "to-do" list right now, but they're all 18th
century or later.

Did you see the link on my page to the Rogart Shirt? I think Marc Carlson
has a page up on that, too.  It's an actual early medieval Irish garment.
That might help.

Cheers,
Mara

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:25:13 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:58 PM 01/15/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>         I am having a thrum cap made as well.  Jamestown's source is
>Kristina Buckland who has become very expensive and very slow to deliver.
>Now that I think about it however, I have been waiting a long while any
>way....I should look into that.

Lots of sailors knitted, you know...  And I heard an article on NPR the
other night about how very hip knitting has become in the 20-something set.
 So you could take it up too, and be positively trendy and authentic, all
at the same time!  <VEG>

-- Mara


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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:46:01 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:55 AM 01/16/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Now, it's true that the cooking isn't generally terribly -complex-, and I 
>think the poor reputation may have come from having made a national cuisine 
>out of "basic home cooking", but what the heck - I come from someplace where 
>"biscuits and gravy' and 'grits' are considered normal food.
>
>Marc

If the world's impression of American cuisine came from greasy-spoon
roadside restaurants, we'd be known for pretty dismal food, too.  Except
for barbecue joints, of course :D



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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:29:03 -0500
Status: RO

At 12:41 AM 01/16/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Now that reminds me of a tale.  A certain bride of my acquaintance decided
>that she & all her bridesmaids would be wearing 1902 gowns. (Lovely dresses,
>lovely wedding, too.)  During the process we made corsets, petticoats,
>skirts & chemises.  Early on in the corset-making process, one valiant,
>non-sewing bridesmaid asked the bride what "this piece" was for.  Bride
>carefully explained the concept of gussets and Edwardian corset shapes.
>Bride then said "We all need them, except for Cin who can leave the gussets
>out".  Bride now claims that I, in a fit of pique replied "I have tits, too
>ya know!" 

LOL!  What pattern did you use for the corsets?

-- Mara

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:54:12 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:41 AM 01/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>(snip)
>I can tell that you are discouraged, and I would be too! Most artistic
>people are not good with money, and most people who are good with money are
>not artistic. People who are good at money and art are rare and should be
>thankful for their gifts!
>
>Gail Finke

Oh, that is SO true...  I considered branching out with my costumes, but
have decided that the _only_ thing I'll make for customers other than my
hubby and a few very close friends is corsets or stays, because there's
already a good market out there for them, and other people are making them
and charging very fair prices for their work, so customers are used to
paying what one's time is worth (or almost, anyway).  On the items I'm
making for my hubby and friends, my labor is more or less a gift, and we
work on the barter system.  It's so hard to have the nerve to charge what
my labor is worth...   (shrug)

-- Mara

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Subject: OT Re: [h-cost] jeanne@parrotfantasy.com
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:42:57 -0500
Status: RO

At 06:11 PM 01/14/2002 -0800, you wrote:
(snip)
>But to think she's a stripper.... HOW DEPRESSING is that?
>
>Sharon

I suppose it all depends.  My hubby's neice did "exotic dance" (just
dancing, not any illicit sex acts) for a while, to pay off medical bills
from a car accident.  When they were paid off, she quit, and is now a
perfectly respectable married mother of a beautiful baby girl, with a
managerial job that probably pays her a LOT less than her dancing job did.
And I've heard of women working their way through college by doing this.
Would I do it?  No.  But I can't throw stones at women who are trying to
pull themselves out of desperate poverty that way.  Life is tough, who am I
to judge?

Anyway, this is getting way off-topic... we probably don't want to get into
costumes and strip acts, eh?  <g>  The neice mentioned above said that her
'act' (she started out dressed very conservatively, like a stereotypical
librarian or schoolmarm, and her glasses) was very popular.  Something
about the contrast between the very prim and proper initial appearance...
But said the high heels were hell and gave her no end of back pain, so she
was glad to quit after her bills were paid off.

-- Mara



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:38:47 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:01 AM 01/16/2002 -0500, you wrote:
(snip)
>On a similar note-My husband mundanely works for a swordsmith, my hubbys
boss 
>is (finally) seriously thinking of adding a busk dagger to his ilne of 
>weapons. This after my nagging him for 3 years. The questions I have 
>are-would you as re-enactors/recreationists be interested in owning a busk 
>dagger, what price range would the corsetiers on list be willing to pay,
what 
>would you look for in one (size range, materials for the sheathe, length of 
>actual dagger, would a dagger be best or would a stilletto be preferrred 
>etc). Please let me know either on or off list.
>In Service,
>Lady G

Isn't the "cleavage dagger" somewhat of a RennFaire invention?

-- Mara

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:08:32 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, and got the sex wrong, right? <g>
--Sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> *Yes, 12 gores, not 10. SCA'ers: The TI article miscounted.
>
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 17:42:53 +0100
Status: RO

Hello all!
I am overwhelmed by your kind conserns about my situation. It is so kind 
of you all to write all those good thoaghts MANY THANKS :-)
Well i wont give up doing it, it is just i wont do it cheap for others 
anymore! I know that there will be much less to do this way, but then i 
have thoaght that i would start to make historical fashion dolls. Give 
the costumes real miniature lace and embroidery and then try to sell it 
on ebay.
Another thing i could do is making lace hankerchiefs and sell them on 
ebay. Tere i can put a minimum bit to it and be sure to get a reasonable 
price.
Then i need to find some porcelain doll heads and arms i could use for 
this, but real grown up dolls, not child or baby heads. Anybody know of 
a good online source for this?
Thankyou so much for you all for the kind words!  Blushing :-)

Bjarne

 Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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In a message dated 1/16/2002 11:42:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
mikes@dandy.net writes:


> You are far too talented to have to accept pittance for
> your work.

Boy, can I sympathize! Especially when one sees the crap people will pay tons 
of money for. I've never understood why people think something [not just 
clothes], one of a kind, made by a single person should be less expensive 
than something churned out of a 3rd world factory.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/16/2002 11:42:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, mikes@dandy.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">You are far too talented to have to accept pittance for
<BR>your work.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Boy, can I sympathize! Especially when one sees the crap people will pay tons of money for. I've never understood why people think something [not just clothes], one of a kind, made by a single person should be less expensive than something churned out of a 3rd world factory.</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 1/17/02 7:56:00 AM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> But we are shown to be losing our home
> 

My husband and I was in Ireland and London this past March.  We only got to 
go to London from a Saturday night until a Wednesday morning.  We stayed at a 
B&B, not a good one either and way out from London on the tube.  Next time we 
know more of where to stay.  
Anyway on to the food.  We had great Irish food in Ireland and loved just 
about everything we ate.  The breakfast puddn' was gross to me though.  They 
won't tell us what it was made of.  Anyone on here know what that would be?  
My husband told me maybe I shouldn't find out.  The B&B in Ireland was great 
that we stayed at.  They cooked a full Irish hot breakfast everyday and most 
of it was great like I said. We stayed right in Dublin and really enjoyed our 
stay there.
Back to London.  All of our breakfasts were ate at the B&B.  Now at this one 
in London she only put out jam, milk, oj, bread, cold cereal and a toaster.  
We had to fix it ourselves.  I have no idea what hot breakfast foods would be 
like.  Most of our lunches were inbetween sightseeing and was whatever we 
could find.  We had Hardee's and McDonald's each once.  We tried to step off 
the street to a nicer restaurant in the T-square, I can't remember how to 
spell that, but they wouldn't wait on us.  They just kept ignoring us and 
setting others that came in.  We were dressed no differently then the others 
there so we finally left.  
We went to a deli one time and they had good food.  Sunday we went to a 
Mennonite Church in the London area and got invited to there potluck and we 
stayed.  That is the only place we had real homecooked English food.  I don't 
remember anymore what all we had but I liked everything I ate.  I know there 
was a couple of things that looked different that stuff we normally eat at 
home.
We didn't get to see nearly all the stuff we wanted to in London and someday 
might go back if we do I will have to ask for recommendations for places to 
eat traditional food.
Kelly
m311@aol.com


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/17/02 7:56:00 AM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">But we are shown to be losing our home
<BR>cooked style and moving towards fast food, </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>My husband and I was in Ireland and London this past March. &nbsp;We only got to go to London from a Saturday night until a Wednesday morning. &nbsp;We stayed at a B&amp;B, not a good one either and way out from London on the tube. &nbsp;Next time we know more of where to stay. &nbsp;
<BR>Anyway on to the food. &nbsp;We had great Irish food in Ireland and loved just about everything we ate. &nbsp;The breakfast puddn' was gross to me though. &nbsp;They won't tell us what it was made of. &nbsp;Anyone on here know what that would be? &nbsp;My husband told me maybe I shouldn't find out. &nbsp;The B&amp;B in Ireland was great that we stayed at. &nbsp;They cooked a full Irish hot breakfast everyday and most of it was great like I said. We stayed right in Dublin and really enjoyed our stay there.
<BR>Back to London. &nbsp;All of our breakfasts were ate at the B&amp;B. &nbsp;Now at this one in London she only put out jam, milk, oj, bread, cold cereal and a toaster. &nbsp;We had to fix it ourselves. &nbsp;I have no idea what hot breakfast foods would be like. &nbsp;Most of our lunches were inbetween sightseeing and was whatever we could find. &nbsp;We had Hardee's and McDonald's each once. &nbsp;We tried to step off the street to a nicer restaurant in the T-square, I can't remember how to spell that, but they wouldn't wait on us. &nbsp;They just kept ignoring us and setting others that came in. &nbsp;We were dressed no differently then the others there so we finally left. &nbsp;
<BR>We went to a deli one time and they had good food. &nbsp;Sunday we went to a Mennonite Church in the London area and got invited to there potluck and we stayed. &nbsp;That is the only place we had real homecooked English food. &nbsp;I don't remember anymore what all we had but I liked everything I ate. &nbsp;I know there was a couple of things that looked different that stuff we normally eat at home.
<BR>We didn't get to see nearly all the stuff we wanted to in London and someday might go back if we do I will have to ask for recommendations for places to eat traditional food.
<BR>Kelly
<BR>m311@aol.com
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT:mold
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:21:12 -0500
Status: RO


heh, it is Datura stramonium, which is different, i think, from the
species used out west.  The morning glory used by the aztecs is Rivea
corymbosa (I almost had some in our living room).  The regular Ipomea
morning glories also contain lsd-like alkaloids.

parsla





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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:27:23 +0000
Status: RO

Marc Carlson <marccarlson20@hotmail.com> wrote
>>From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>Well! yes it was a joke, but it is true that it is hard for a tourist >in 
>>London to find places with good british food.
>
>All things consider, when trying not to starve wandering about by myself in 
>England (I didn't out of England so I can't speak for the rest of Britain) I 
>found a number of small restaurants and pubs that served very good food.  
>Certainly, as might be expected, I didn't like everything I tried -- and 
>things made in different places by different people were frequently 
>completely different (some for the better, some for the worse).  So much so, 
>that aside from the occasional forays into American food (London being 
>replete with McDonalds and KFC), I didn't have time to try anything OTHER 
>than English food.
>
>Now, it's true that the cooking isn't generally terribly -complex-, and I 
>think the poor reputation may have come from having made a national cuisine 
>out of "basic home cooking", but what the heck - I come from someplace where 
>"biscuits and gravy' and 'grits' are considered normal food.
>
>Marc

We were lured to the "real traditional Quebecois" restaurant a couple of
years ago (in Quebec, of course).  Salt pork and beans.  Salt beef and
beans.  Beans and beans?  Good, practical, filling frontier food, but
not what I'd call cuisine.

JEan

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Leaving
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 09:52:44 -0700
Status: RO

Greetings,

I just thought I would say Goodbye to my friends on h-costume
before unsubscribing.

I am following a new path in my life and at this time costume
and fabric don't have anything to do with it.  Notice I said at this
time.

We are now the proud owners of a six year old Spanish Mustang, named
Napoleon.  He is not broke to ride and was abandoned by the people
who adopted him from the BLM.  So we have our work cut out for
us.  But it is so rewarding!  I just can't explain the feelings of joy
that
comes with a connection to a horse.  It's amazing.  Every time I am with
him, no matter how much labor it is, I feel as if I have just had a
vacation.
All you equestrians out there know what I am talking about.

So after another year or so I may be back for advice on costuming for
the Cowboy Mounted Shooting garb I will need.  Yes, galloping around
a course, six guns blazing, all done up in period tack and clothing.  I
can't
wait!!!!!!

Bye for now,

Kathy Hopkins
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:05:58 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:31 PM -0800 1/16/02, Wanda Pease wrote:
>Bjarne,
>
>	It sounds like a serious case of "burn out".  Happens to a 
>lot of us who
>just throw ourselves into making costumes, and enjoy seeing them.  I got
>this way after doing all the fitting and patterning for a Renaissance Dance
>troop.  My mother had a stroke and I had to go home to take care of my
>father.  Best thing I have ever done because it gave me time with people I
>loved, something I will never be able to do again, unlike the dresses and
>doublets.  When I came back no one had done anything with their costumes
>even though I had left careful sewing instructions and all pieces sorted
>into individual bags.

Wanda, that sounds like an excellent illustration of a motto I quote 
occasionally in the SCA:  "If I am the only person who can possibly 
get this job done, then there's a problem -- and it has nothing to do 
with whether I do the job or not."

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:01:17 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:25 PM +0000 1/16/02, Jean Waddie wrote:
>leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote
>>Hi, All. I think what Sharon was trying to say, in so many words, is what the
>>costume folks for "Braveheart" should have gotten, which is that 
>>the Scots were
>>wearing pretty much what everyone else in Europe was wearing in the 
>>13th Cent..
>>The Highlanders were probably a few years behind, not because of 
>>any culturally
>>bigoted reasons, just because they were at the end of the earth, 
>>fashion-wise,
>>although you can argue that the Greenlanders of  the 14th cent. managed to
>>mantain their fashion sense even to the end (thanks, Marc, for your
>>contributions to this effort).
>
>Mike (and Marc?)
>
>This may have been just a throwaway remark, but can you explain?  I'm
>looking for evidence to put to those who think they can wear Hjerolfsnes
>styles for 12th century, because, you know, Greenland was so far away,
>it was really behind the times (grrr).  Is there evidence of similar
>styles in mainland Europe?

If you look at Margareta Nockert's book on the Bocksten man, she 
includes diagrams of tunic cuts from a wide variety of locations in 
northern Europe (including the Greenland material).  While not all 
the items are independently dated, the provide a useful stylistic 
context.  I believe, however, that the loose, front-buttoning coat 
from Greenland is one of the most "up to date" styles.

I think it really helps to look at the broader range of examples of 
the "panel + gussets" style of tunic, to get a sense of how to use it 
for a variety of eras.  There was a broad continuity of use of this 
design approach, but there were also changes and modifications of 
particular aspects of the design that may or may not correspond to 
development over time or local preferences.

I would tend to say that, if you exclude the loose front-buttoning 
gown, and the extreme cases of the multiple-underarm-gore gowns (the 
ones that people tend to mean when they say "THE Greenland dress") 
then the range of styles found at the Greenland site are likely to be 
valid for several centuries earlier.  On the other hand, you can also 
draw that conclusion by looking at actual earlier garments cut in 
that style, without needing the Greenland examples for anything but 
backup (see, for example, the Kragelund (1045-1155), Moselund 
(1050-1155), and Ronbjerg (ca. 1200) garments).

Or, to put it more simply, _some_ of the styles found in 14th c. 
Greenland were of a conservative type of cut that can also be found 
in the 12th century, however this is not because Greenland was a 
cultural backwater (since more innovative styles were also found 
there) but rather because there was some general stylistic carryover 
between the 12th and 14th centuries in some types of garments (for 
some classes).

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:30:38 EST
Status: RO

I decided a long time ago that I would not sew for others.  They really don't 
want to pay, or you think you can't charge, what you are worth.  I sew for 
myself and my husband and occasional gifts that I want to do, but I give a 
blanket answer of "I'm sorry, I don't sew for others" to those who ask.  I 
DO, though, offer to provide sources and guidance if they want to make their 
own costumes.  They rarely take me up on it, though.
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:16:27 Canada/Eastern
Status: RO

Being on the digest version, this may have already been pointed out, but within 
the site that Mara sent regarding the corset blanc, there is an article on clogs, with 
many pictures.

From
http://100associes.free.fr/CadreArchives.html
click on Les Sabots.   It's the first listing under L'Expo temporaire.

Les tissus goes into detail on the construction of cloth; quite a few pictures there 
too.


Christine

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:18:39 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:36 PM 1/16/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi. Kirstie Buckland is quite a good source for knit goods, and she has
done such
>extensive research that we are indebted to her for her work (she and the late
>Bishop Rutt, of course). Thank you for your kind words. I am trying slowly
to build
>up kit for a variety of periods. Perhaps you have met Simon Spalding, also?
He has
>a wonderful background in the 16th cent., although he is more interested in
doing
>early 19th cent. nowadays. I will try and find my e-mail addy for Terry (I
have it
>somewhere) and ask him about the Scots stuff.  Cheers, Mike T.
>
   Kirstie stuff is all great.  Most of the knit caps used at Jamestowne
settlement were supplied by her, as well as a few scotch bonnets worn where
I work.  Apparently she is charging Americans a "pain in the but" charge due
to some unfortunate thefts (according to one of her customers and
acquaintances that I know not per her words directly). For any considering
it her work is excellent, the wool is usually vegetable dyed and she does
several different designs.  The caps seem to average just under $100 and
apparently there is a year backlog presently.

        Yes I do know Simon, have known him for decades know now I feel
old).  For anyone on the list who are familiar with Mr. Spalding, you may be
interested to know that he is now married and that his wive gave births to
twins (one of each) in December.  By strange coincedence I was working for
him the day they were delivered, and the day the came home (ssome time later
as they were two months premature).

        Simon is still interested in 15th century and intends to sponser
some London Trained Band events at his home, and is also considering
beginning a 16th century Irish group with a curragh he may be acquiring.
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:38:08 -0700
Status: RO

On Wed, Jan 16, 2002 at 11:36:41PM -0500, Megan M. wrote:
> I suspect it would not be nearly as much
> fun if I *had* to do it instead of choosing to.  

Amen.  I used to be an SCA merchant, and I lost the fun of making
stuff because I *had* to make them.  Now I only sew for myself and my
husband, with the infrequent side project for pay for a friend or to
donate something to the SCA.  When I got laid off last month, my mom
suggested I go back to costuming for pay, but all that thought did was
make me unhappy, so I won't be doing it.

						...eliz

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:51:21 -0500
Status: RO

This entire subject line has made me hungry!!!

If this is what English eat regularly then -- England Here I Come!!!!

Right now I'm stuck in Long Island where finding a good "stick to your 
ribs" meal is very hard.

I usually get strange looks when I ask for both gravy & butter on my mashed 
potatoes, I also drown my meat in gravy, I use too much salt on my food, 
and drown the whole thing with a milk shake [chocolate of course].

I think this kind of meal is normal because I was raised in a Polish 
Household. Lots of starch, fat, salt, gravy and other good stuff..      YUM!!!

Katheryne
who is not looking forward to her dinner of rice & tinned vegitables

At 1/17/2002 01:57 AM, you wrote:
> >Will you be having
>fagots?"
>
>Basically meat balls in gravy
>
> >One of the other nights, they declined the "pudding" after
>one of the locals told them it was wonderful, made with fresh pig's blood!
>(it turned out to be blood sausage).
>
>Known as Black pudding
>
>Mel
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:43:41 -0800
Status: RO


Aint it grand to have a librarian on the list? Thanks!
--cin
> Cynthia wrote:
> >(sources are l'Encyclopédie de Diderot et d'Alembert. I dont know who
> >d'Alembert is/was. Or maybe they both wrote the "l'Encyclopédie"?)  
> 
> Yes, they did.
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alter Years (Was: farthingale question)
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 17:12:13 -0800
Status: RO

I don't know about quicker now, but my step-Mom lives nearby and can just 
pick up anything I need and she gets it to me right away.  If only I had 
family in the orient to do the same with fabrics.  sigh...

Jennifer


>From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Alter Years (Was: farthingale question)
>Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:37:59 -0800 (PST)
>
>I'm a little surprised to see a recommendation for
>Alter Years for a "quick-fix" situation.  I don't
>order from them any more because the few times that I
>did, it tooks months to get my stuff, and even then it
>wasn't always right.  Of course, the last time I tried
>was at least a year or two ago.  Are they better now?
>
>-Angela
>
>
>--- Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>
>wrote:
> > Since you are in LA, call over to AlterYears in
> > Pasadena. They will fix
> > you up. Phone # is on their web site,
> > http://www.alteryears.com
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> >
> > MD/Marged
>
>__________________________________________________
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] desperately seeking pattern
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 17:21:18 -0800
Status: RO



I know it's not really a period pattern, but I'm hoping someone else has a 
copy of Simplicity 7935 in sz 6-10.  I am donating a ton of time and effort 
to the local school district so their choir can have formals to wear for 
concerts.  I had the 12-16 size in my shop because I always buy new bodice 
patterns to see how I like them.  Now that we have all the fabrics trims and 
fastenings picked out I find the pattern has been discontinued.  If anyone 
has the smaller copy they would be willing to sell me, or even lend to me I 
would be eternally grateful.

This whole town only has 620 people and I swear they counted pets, so the 
budget is miniscule and I've managed to pull most of it together very 
inexpensively without sacrificing quality.  Now if I can just get the right 
size pattern for the tiny girls I will be able to get all 21 outfits done by 
Feb. 20, for their next concert, even with the added sleeve design they want 
added.

If you have this I can be reached at distantdesigns@hotmail.com or 
503-985-3149.  I'm up late so late calls are fine.

Thanks in advance,

Jennifer






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Subject: [h-cost] Dorothy Dodderidge's Tomb Effigy
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 07:49:19 -0000
Status: RO

Yesterday I bought an old tourist guide to Devonshire (U.K.), and found this
description.

"Dorothy Dodderidge, nee Bampfield, 1582-1614.
Dorothy, the wife of John Dodderidge, Solicitor General and Judge in the
reign of James I, died in childbirth.  Little is known of her personally,
but a visit to her tomb on the north side of the Lady Chapel in Exeter
Cathedral is well worthwhile.  The effigy shows her lying sideways, resting
on her right elbow and looking rather uncomfortable, but it is her clothes
that deserve close inspection.  Dorothy wears an interesting head-dress, a
ruff and a beautiful flower-patterned dress, which has a lace collar and
cuffs."

Now, this is clean outside any period I've ever been interested in before,
but somehow these words and the tiny, poorly reproduced black-and-white
photograph have captured my imagination.  Does anyone know where I can find
more information, and preferably some good photographs?

Linda Walton.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan 18 15:50:51 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] New Instructor, New Classes, and Repeating classes
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 06:18:19 -0500
Status: RO

We have a new instructor in the Costume Classroom (
http://www.costumeclassroom.com ).  Her name is Elizabeth Martin Gerds.
Some of the h-costume old-timers may remember Liz. She will be teaching two
classes, one about how to make a Kinsale Cloak and the other, <<<drum
roll>>> Beginning Sewing.  (A lot of people have been asking for this class)
She designed this pattern for the cloak.  The Beginning Sewing class will be
on the schedule within a week. Elizabeth is a very seasoned workshop
instructor  with AlterYears and Costume College.  She was president of the
Costumers Guild West for one year.

Drea Leed has two open slots for her 16th Century Women's Class (March
session).... first come, first serve.

Below are the new and repeating classes that I have added to the schedule
this week:

Elizabeth Martin Gerds Class:
***Making a Kinsale Cloak (Feb. 25)

Juanita Leisch Classes:
***Women's Clothing of the American Civil War Period (July 15)
***Children's Clothing of the American Civil War Period (June 3)

Janice P. Ryan Classes: (JP Ryan)
***Making a Late 18th Century Wardrobe: Ladies Strapless Stays (May 6)
***Making a Late 18th Century Wardrobe:  Pet-en-l'air or Robe à la Française
(Sackback) Gown (June 3)

Aileen Wedeking Classes:
***Creative Fashion Magic (March 11)
***Making a Mystical Fairy Costume (May 11) {dress, wings, wand, and
headdress included}

Dr. Ann B. Wass Class:
***Early 19th Century Fashion–The Total Look (March 4)

Ben Levick Class:
***Early Anglo Saxons' Costume (April 8)  Note: This was his first class in
the series.

Marna Jean Davis Class:
***Propriety, Plain and Fancy: Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from Bustle
to Gibson Girl  (Sept. 30)

Cornelia Rutherford Class:
***Elizabethan Men's Costumes (May 6)

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 06:40:52 -0700
Status: RO

Greetings,

I just thought I would say Goodbye to my friends on h-costume
before unsubscribing.

I am following a new path in my life and at this time costume
and fabric don't have anything to do with it.  Notice I said at this
time.

We are now the proud owners of a six year old Spanish Mustang, named
Napoleon.  He is not broke to ride and was abandoned by the people
who adopted him from the BLM.  So we have our work cut out for
us.  But it is so rewarding!  I just can't explain the feelings of joy
that
comes with a connection to a horse.  It's amazing.  Every time I am with
him, no matter how much labor it is, I feel as if I have just had a
vacation.
All you equestrians out there know what I am talking about.

So after another year or so I may be back for advice on costuming for
the Cowboy Mounted Shooting garb I will need.  Yes, galloping around
a course, six guns blazing, all done up in period tack and clothing.  I
can't
wait!!!!!!

Bye for now,

Kathy Hopkins
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:17:59 -0800
Status: RO

When I was in college I did the costumes for a number of male strippers
that worked in one of the local clubs.  Had to find some interesting
ways of padding G-strings with out looking like they were padded.  My
favorite was the one who brought in a cops uniform for me to adjust to
tear away.  It was a real cop uniform, I didn't have the nerve to ask
him where he got it.

Stephen

Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:
> 
> >I worked several years in a costume rental place for Halloween. This
> >place also, the rest of the year, did uniforms for theme restaurants and
> >the like, and a lot of custom work. One of their clients was a
> >"gentleman's club" where they costumed the waitresses. High class strip
> >joint.
> >
> 
> I had a similar experience working in a costume store.  One of our most
> memorable projects was the obviously highly succesful...err..."manager"  who
> came in with his stable of gourgeous women (I was going to say "ladies", but
> believe me, it would not be appropriate), and had us costume them as a sheik
> and his harem.
> 
> Margo
> 
> Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
> margospatterns.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:12:36 -0800
Status: RO

Bjarne

I know how you feel and to be flip, "Been there got the T-shirt!"  The
number of times I have worked myself to death for someone else and all
the do is complain is too many to count.  I love to sew and now I sew
only for myself, my wife and my son.  Any paid job I take they are
informed right from the start that I am a pain in the ass, and not
cheap.  But they will be happy with what I make.  I have gotten good at
spotting trouble makers and they are cut off without a backwards
glance.  Take a break, teach your lace classes, get your own wardrobe up
to snuff and in a year or so things will look different.  But trust me
this list will always be the richer for having you as part of it.

Stephen
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:53:51 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, Bjarne, such burn out!

Rest a while. Then make something wonderful for yourself. If you want, 
something you really want to make for its own sake, as a gift, for 
someone you love. But only if you really want to.

If you decide to make things for others again, charge professional 
prices. Say "This is not a hobby, I am not an amateur, it is not worth 
my time. I am creating works of art. You should be honored that I will 
make this for you." You are, by the way... Your work is amazing. And 
good artists deserve to be able to either support themselves comfortably 
with their art, or do it purely for love. Not the "You love to do  it, 
so you don't have to be paid enough for it" middle ground so many of us 
work in.

And don't you dare leave us! We would miss you terribly. You still have 
knowledge to share.

BTW, did I ever thank you for the information about the dolls? I was 
having email problems, and am not sure what I answered and what I 
didn't. If I did not, thank you. I'm glad I can display them without the 
"They're pretty but I don't know if they are accurate" disclaimer.

Anne

Bjarne Drews wrote:

> Dear List.
> I have ben thinking a lot lately. Making costumes have ben a very 
> passionate thing for me, but i think that i want to give it up.
> I have supplied friends, socalled friends with costumes and i have 
> worked many many hours.  It has ben fun, but now i dont know any more. 
> When i count all the work and se what i have ben paid for doing it, it 
> is a laughing stock buisines. Perhaps it is my own faults because i 
> have not ben able to sell myself properly, and those people i have 
> made costumes for didnt say: Hey that is way two cheap! You must have 
> more!
> It has ben ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house 
> sometimes have ben a mess all because i have not had the time! Really 
> i quit!
> But i want to stay with you. It is rather fun to discuss costumes with 
> you, i enjoy it very much.
> But it mostly wil be as a lurker.
>
> Bjarne
>   




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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:32:48 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I think the list is down at this moment, i have had no response since 
yesterday afternoon.
I just want to tell you something about my post to the list a couple of 
days ago about my thoaghts about giving up.
Most of you know that Nicole Kipar was one of my costumers, i made her 
the blue dress with silverlace. Well i didnt realise that the post could 
be misleading about Nicole Kipar.
She was not one of those costumers i have had, that didnt pay me well. 
On the contrary, Nicole payed me very well.
I was a fool not realising that you could have thoaght that she was 
included in my thoaghts about giving up because of bad paying costumers.
Sorry about this!
 Sometimes i oaght to let my temper blow before i write emails!

Bjarne 

Bjarne.

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan 18 15:52:41 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] costume technician resume
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:01:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO



Ok, so I've finsihed my first semester at Can~ada College [in the fashion
design program, which has been discussed here before] and I'm into
my second, but I'm also needing to look for work.  I've worked in
tech for ten years, and I have no idea any more how to format a resume
for an in-school entry level kind of job.  I'm hoping to get a job
as a costume tech [very much entry level] or at least in a small custom
boutique doing retail, so I can see some aspect of the industry.  Thankfully,
there are lots of those in San Francsico... 

So... would anyone on the list be willing to share their resume with me,
or make resommendations as to sites that have posted resumes as examples
on them?  I'm mostly just looking for good key phrases to use, since
my buzzwords vocabulary is still mostly computer oriented ;)

thanks
Heather Meadows
alice@wonderland.com


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In a message dated 1/18/02 4:12:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:


> I've never understood why people think something [not just clothes], one of 
> a kind, made by a single person should be less expensive than something 
> churned out of a 3rd world factory.

       And can we all say a big AMEN to that?   Yes!!!

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/18/02 4:12:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I've never understood why people think something [not just clothes], one of a kind, made by a single person should be less expensive than something churned out of a 3rd world factory.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;And can we all say a big AMEN to that? &nbsp;&nbsp;Yes!!!
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:31:58 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings!

My sweetie has started making glass beads, and we were 
wondering about other uses for them, besides jewelry. Does 
anyone know if they were used as buttons on clothing before 1600 
AD? I'm not picky about where. We're just curious.

Thanks!
--Jessica
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:31:20 -0600
Status: RO

At 02:09 PM 01/18/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>At 09:01 PM 01/15/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> >That I wasn't aware of...  Alas, it is not possible for me to do so.  Too
> >many reasons to explain ehre, but one of them is health
> >concerns...  <shrug>  Perhaps I should look into a different area, like
> >become an inuit? :-)
>
>Yeah, we're not quite as hardy, being acclimated to indoor heating and
>such...  :D

That and having no real feeling in my legs means that I won't know if I'm 
actually having frostbite or not.  My body might even decide to go into 
shock just because the legs got just cold enough without me noticing...  It 
can get *real* nasty...  <shrug>

>Did you see the link on my page to the Rogart Shirt?

Yeah, I saw that, it was most helpful.  I need to revisit it though :-)

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Kingdom of the Middle
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:57:21 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
[...] 
>         Yes I do know Simon, have known him for decades know now I feel
> old).  For anyone on the list who are familiar with Mr. Spalding, you may be
> interested to know that he is now married and that his wive gave births to
> twins (one of each) in December.  By strange coincedence I was working for
> him the day they were delivered, and the day the came home (ssome time later
> as they were two months premature).
> 
>         Simon is still interested in 15th century and intends to sponser
> some London Trained Band events at his home, and is also considering
> beginning a 16th century Irish group with a curragh he may be acquiring.

I haven't seen Simon in about 3 years now.  Good to know life is still 
treating him well.  Simon Spaulding founded the irish ceili that I now
run.  The session has run continuously every Monday night for nearly 24
years.  And we still do the dance that was composed in his honor (The
Iron Hand Reel).

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ends of the earth
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:56:17 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 17 Jan 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Robin Netherton wrote:
> > 
> > *Yes, 12 gores, not 10. SCA'ers: The TI article miscounted.

> Yeah, and got the sex wrong, right? <g>

;-) Sue has heard me talk about this before.

It was the Museum of London "Textiles and Clothing" book that
misattributed sex. Of the two gowns exemplifying the so-called Greenland
cut (which is not representative of the rest of the Greenland cache, as
Heather also noted), one is most likely male, and the other most likely
female, based on a variety of points of evidence. The TI article did not,
IIRC, look at a specific one, but at the cut in general (e.g. number and
shape of pieces). The Museum of London book, however, showed a diagram of
the almost-certainly-male gown and labeled it as female, and also showed
an artist's rendering of the dress that does not correspond accurately to
either of the gowns as diagrammed by Norlund (the archaeologist who
documented them).

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
From: Cruiskeen <cruiskeen@hotmail.com>
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:55:54 -0800
Status: RO

> recommendations for places to
> eat traditional food.
My recommendation for "seriously traditional" British food in London is in
the city itself, not too far from St. Paul's Cathedral, just off Fleet
Street and a stone's throw from Dr. Johnson's (of the dictionary) house...
it's called the Cheshire Cheese - it claims to have been continuously open
at least since Elizabethan times.  It serves mostly lunch to newspaper
reporters but also serves dinner/supper... phone them for their hours if you
are in London... it is definitely a traditional English restaurant
specializing in Roast Beef with Yorkshire pudding...

Address
5 Little Essex Street (off Strand)
London WC2
Tel: 020 7836 2347


Hmmm - maybe I will go there soon for lunch

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:03:52 -0500
Status: RO

At 02:25 PM 1/18/02 -0500, you wrote:
>At 11:58 PM 01/15/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>>         I am having a thrum cap made as well.  Jamestown's source is
>>Kristina Buckland who has become very expensive and very slow to deliver.
>>Now that I think about it however, I have been waiting a long while any
>>way....I should look into that.
>
>Lots of sailors knitted, you know...  And I heard an article on NPR the
>other night about how very hip knitting has become in the 20-something set.
> So you could take it up too, and be positively trendy and authentic, all
>at the same time!  <VEG>
>
>-- Mara

        I will feel more comfortable with that if it was normal knitting.
Fir the life of me I couldn't understand how the thrums were attached or was
it knit from them).  I am also VERY busy. This is similiar to how I started
costuming however ( it was driven originally by need).

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:03:29 -0800
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------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1A028.E80A7520
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Sorry..yet another

What he said..

Hugs and take time for yourself!

Gia/Giacinta

----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Bergdahl
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 1:30 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up making costumes

Bjarne

I know how you feel and to be flip, "Been there got the T-shirt!"  The
number of times I have worked myself to death for someone else and all
the do is complain is too many to count.  I love to sew and now I sew
only for myself, my wife and my son.  Any paid job I take they are
informed right from the start that I am a pain in the ass, and not
cheap.  But they will be happy with what I make.  I have gotten good at
spotting trouble makers and they are cut off without a backwards
glance.  Take a break, teach your lace classes, get your own wardrobe up
to snuff and in a year or so things will look different.  But trust me
this list will always be the richer for having you as part of it.

Stephen
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Sorry..yet ano=
ther</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>What he said..</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> =
<DIV>Hugs and take time for yourself!</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Gi=
acinta</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; P=
ADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGI=
N-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ---=
--</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: blac=
k"><B>From:</B> Stephen Bergdahl</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B=
>Sent:</B> Friday, January 18, 2002 1:30 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10p=
t Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Ar=
ial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] giving up making costumes</DIV> <DIV>&n=
bsp;</DIV>Bjarne<BR><BR>I know how you feel and to be flip, "Been there g=
ot the T-shirt!"&nbsp; The<BR>number of times I have worked myself to dea=
th for someone else and all<BR>the do is complain is too many to count.&n=
bsp; I love to sew and now I sew<BR>only for myself, my wife and my son.&=
nbsp; Any paid job I take they are<BR>informed right from the start that =
I am a pain in the ass, and not<BR>cheap.&nbsp; But they will be happy wi=
th what I make.&nbsp; I have gotten good at<BR>spotting trouble makers an=
d they are cut off without a backwards<BR>glance.&nbsp; Take a break, tea=
ch your lace classes, get your own wardrobe up<BR>to snuff and in a year =
or so things will look different.&nbsp; But trust me<BR>this list will al=
ways be the richer for having you as part of it.<BR><BR>Stephen<BR>______=
_________________________________________<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-=
costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costum=
e<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leaving
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:06:10 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:52 AM 1/17/02 -0700, you wrote:

>So after another year or so I may be back for advice on costuming for
>the Cowboy Mounted Shooting garb I will need.  Yes, galloping around
>a course, six guns blazing, all done up in period tack and clothing.  I
>can't
>wait!!!!!!
>
>Bye for now,
>
>Kathy Hopkins

I am envolved in Cowboy Action Shooting, and will be glad to help you, in a
year or sooner....

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:07:41 -0500
Status: RO

At 01:21 PM 1/17/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
>heh, it is Datura stramonium, which is different, i think, from the
>species used out west.  The morning glory used by the aztecs is Rivea
>corymbosa (I almost had some in our living room).  The regular Ipomea
>morning glories also contain lsd-like alkaloids.
>
>parsla

Might be why I didn't recognize it out here, our Datura had a very obvious
flower.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: [h-cost] Busk Question/busc dagger
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:08:09 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 18/1/02 3:10:39 PM, lindo@radix.net writes:
<< Isn't the "cleavage dagger" somewhat of a RennFaire invention?
-- Mara >>
Never said it was period period but this is what I have found out about them 
and a bit more info.
I found a pic accredited as a 17th century busc dagger in the NY public 
library in a book called something like "Accessories of Dress" a number of 
years ago. The piece was made to go into the casing you'd normally slip a 
busc into. The sheathe stays in the casing and the dagger itself slides into 
it with a small amount sticking out of the casing. The piece looked like a 
katana? wagasashi? (which ever one looks like a slightly curved piece of 
wood). The top edge that sticks up out of the corset was carved into 
something that looked like a narrow fleur di lis. Looked like just enough to 
grab with a forefinger and thumb to draw. As the piece was listed as an 
extant piece rather than a reproduction, I'm going to presume that at least 
one existed in period. I seem to remember a reference to Catherine di Medici 
having one also. 
As to it being a ren faire thing, the main reason I keep after Dan to make 
them is the ones they sell as bodice daggers are basically stillettos that 
the sheathe slips betwixt and between and the cleavage is expected to hold it 
in place. I'd be afraid to get a cut in a sensitive spot. The one in the book 
at least would avoid that. Plus (a) the design appears to be a solid one ie 
workable (b) I've gotten requests for a shop to get them at several points in 
time (c) recreationists (as opposed to rennies) seem disappointed in the ones 
offered so this would get the correct design out there (d) you'd already have 
some of your feast gear at "hand" when needed >bg<. I've looked and looked 
for another reference to them and found a few asides but nothing solid. It 
may well have been a rarity or something so common it wasn't described. It 
may be something completly out of SCA period and more into Cavalier or it may 
be like the 16th century cast iron corset, and originally used for something 
completely different.
Just wanted to know if anyone on list was interested and what their idea of 
what it should be would be.
In Service,
Lady G
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:34:51 -0500
Status: RO

Eliz,

I am sorry you got laid off.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:31:10 -0500
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I think that part of the problem is that people saw their mothers sew and
never charged their family members.  So others think they can get our
services cheap.

I can tell you this Bjarne, from looking at the costumes you have sent us,
you should be getting top dollar.

Maybe an idea, post your diploma on the wall where your customers come in
for a fitting.  Beside that post one of the bills from the school you went
to.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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<DIV>I think that part of the problem is that people saw their mothers =
sew and
never charged their family members.&nbsp; So others think they can get =
our
services cheap.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I can tell you this Bjarne, from looking at the costumes you have =
sent us,
you should be getting top dollar.&nbsp; </DIV>
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<DIV>Maybe an idea, post your diploma on the wall where your customers =
come in
for a fitting.&nbsp; Beside that post one of the bills from the school =
you went
to.&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A
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From: Shea Young <younganne@usa.net>
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Date: 18 Jan 2002 14:53:57 PST
Status: RO

Christine <cedar@interlog.com> wrote:
> From > http://100associes.free.fr/CadreArchives.html
> click on Les Sabots.   

This reminds me of the story behind the word "sabotage". Factory workers threw
their clogs into the gears, effectively shutting the place down! 
I don't have the reference for what country, incident or date it was - just
one of those many facts gleened while researching something else...

Shea
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:59:17 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


Penny,

I know what the problem with posting to the BBS is.  I need to talk with
one of the tech guys running the box that your website is on, to get write
permissions for the Internet Guest account (IUSR_MACHINE) to the BB
directory.  Do you know who I can contact?

Thanks,

Drea



 On Fri, 18 Jan 2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Eliz,
>
> I am sorry you got laid off.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



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Subject: [h-cost] Sources for English mid 16th cent. non-nobles?
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:56:55 -0500
Status: RO

Changing social classes that I usually look at, I'm starting to look for sources for what a tenant farmer's wife (any level... from those at the top who'd likely have a few servants, down to those who *might* only have the one dress at a time) might wear... in England, within 50 miles of London, during the mid 1500s.

Thinking about it logically, I'd guess that a well off family might be dressed similarly to nobility... in style, but not in fabric and color choices. ... but what the "next" level down, where the wife might help in the fields or with animals occasionally, rather than "just" within the house and kitchen gardens.... who *might* have one girl to help out, I'm having trouble figuring out.  Either way, I'm also guessing that the bumroll might cover both those levels, but no
lower along the scale.  And for those who would likely get their next outfit as the last one was on it's last many turned legs, I haven't a clue what style they would choose to cut the fabric.

I either have glossed over, or haven't seen many paintings with "villagers" in them, at a size where you could have even an educated guess at what the dress actually looked like.

Can anyone point me in a good starting direction?  (or even a so so one?)


Thanks!
-Elisabeth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sources for English mid 16th cent. non-nobles?
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:10:41 -0600
Status: RO

One of the better sources (although not perfect) is a huge painting
called either "The Wedding At Bermondsey" or "The Fete At Bermondsey". It
shows a broad cross-section of English middle and lower classes gathered
for a celebration of some sort- hence the difference in names. Now there
are a couple of caveats involved with the painting. The most important is
that while it is set in England (just across the Thames from the Tower of
London which you can see in the background), it was painted by a
Dutch/Flemish artist and is related to the Flemish genre paintings which
also produced the Flemish working woman pictures. As such, we cannot be
absolutely sure that the fashions portrayed are completely English. On
the other hand, I feel that the fashions couldn't have been ragingly
wrong or his English audience wouldn't have accepted the painting. If you
can find a large enough reproduction (I'm still looking for a really good
one) you will be able to see a wide variety of styles for both men and
women as well as some good documentation for Elizabethan kitchens!


Karen
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:20:55 -0500
Status: RO

Drea made an oooppps!!!!!  <<<giggle>>  That was supposed to be a personal
message to me.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "aleed" <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 5:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] BBS


>
> Penny,
>
> I know what the problem with posting to the BBS is.  I need to talk with
> one of the tech guys running the box that your website is on, to get write
> permissions for the Internet Guest account (IUSR_MACHINE) to the BB
> directory.  Do you know who I can contact?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drea
>
>
>
>  On Fri, 18 Jan 2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
> > Eliz,
> >
> > I am sorry you got laid off.
> >
> > Penny Ladnier
> > Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> > http://www.costumegallery.com
> > http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan 18 17:49:36 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:21:54 -0800
Status: RO

Well, Bjarne, at least you can see you're not alone!

I've struggled with the appreciation/pay problems in costuming for years.  I
finally came to the conclusion that it's just about impossible to get aid
what it's worth to make detailed, one of a kind historical costumes. Theater
work isn't much better, at least in the US:  A theatrical costumer makes
about half what a theatrical carpenter does. So I gave up the idea of making
any sort of a living off of costuming.

(Of course, that's when my Fairy GodInvestor showed up and poured enough
money in my lap to make my pattern business possible, but I wouldn't
recommend that anyone count on that happening.)

However, there are some benefits beyond the financial in taking on the
occasional project for hire.  When you make a costume to someone else's
taste, it can help you grow as an artist, by stretching you in directions
you might not have gone on your own. Working with many different body types
will teach you far more about fitting than you can ever learn on your own.
And, of course, there's the advantage of having someone else pay for your
materials...I could never have afforded to buy leather to work with, or use
real silk, or enough crystals and pearls to pave a forepart, but my clients
could, and I was able to improve my skills and learn new techniques while
earning something.

Dolls are a good way to go, but be warned that finding historically accurate
fabrics and trims to scale will be even harder than finding them fullsized!
On the other hand, you can take the entire project and put it in a shoebox
when you're not working on it, a terrific advantage.

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:40:42 EST
Status: RO


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I seem to remember that you can get some recently discontinued patterns from 
the company.  Anyone else have details?  Also check their website and call 
their toll-free number.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I seem to remember that you can get some recently discontinued patterns from the company.&nbsp; Anyone else have details?&nbsp; Also check their website and call their toll-free number.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Yet another issue about charging what we are worth--a friend for a while was 
trying to make a living at costuming and had more work than he could handle 
(probably a sure sign that you are not charging enough, by the way!)  He 
asked if I would work for him.  Well, first of all, it is the creative 
process I enjoy, not just the sewing--one reason why I only lasted one season 
in the theater.  And second, I told him he couldn't afford me.  I refuse to 
work off the books, and, by the time we in the States pay income tax and 
social security, we have to charge almost double what we would otherwise.  
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Yet another issue about charging what we are worth--a friend for a while was trying to make a living at costuming and had more work than he could handle (probably a sure sign that you are not charging enough, by the way!)&nbsp; He asked if I would work for him.&nbsp; Well, first of all, it is the creative process I enjoy, not just the sewing--one reason why I only lasted one season in the theater.&nbsp; And second, I told him he couldn't afford me.&nbsp; I refuse to work off the books, and, by the time we in the States pay income tax and social security, we have to charge almost double what we would otherwise.&nbsp; <BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Pattern Question
References: <866D7CEB7BC74CC44A994112A04A7135@Kimberly.Antiquarum.zzn.com> <3C3EF4BC.2690EBC@faucet.net> <3C41D58B.7090902@bigpond.com> <3C40DE79.F99FD96F@faucet.net> <3C43BAC6.6080703@bigpond.com> <3C464291.8F00D8E7@faucet.net>
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 10:57:59 -0800
Status: RO



Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Claire Clarke wrote:
> 
>>>  In addition, there's the possible-v-back issue (see Holbein's
>>> sketch of the Unknown Lady from 1535, front and back), which would make
>>> an acute angle necessary and help tremendously in keeping the straps up,
>>> especially considering the weight of Tudor sleeves.
>> 
>> Mine does have a v-back, which probably adds to the problem....
> 
> 
> But that should _help_ the problem, because the straps go from the sides
> of your chest in the front to a v in the back, so there's automatically
> an acute angle with the neckline and there's no way they can fall off
> your shoulders.  It's just a matter of proper fitting to get them to lay right.

Ah, but mine don't go all the way over, there's a shoulder seam. 
Necessary for economy of fabric
unfortunately. I'm sure it'll work out once I have a go, but it's a bit 
daunting, because I'm
going to have to really hack into it (pull the strap up more and cut the 
armhole deeper) I suspect.

> 
> 
>>> If you're anywhere near the Milwaukee area, I would be happy to assist
>>> in any way I can with the fitting.  I have Garb Workdays twice a month
>>> in the costume shop where I work.
>> 
>> Thank you kindly, but nowhere near Milwaukee. Not remotely.
>> 
>> Claire (in Australia)
> 
> 
> Ooh, that is a little far!  Well, hopefully there's someone closer to
> you who can help.  One thing I've learned is that you just can't fit
> things on yourself.  Not sixteenth century things, anyway.

Heh! Well the joke is, this is the first thing I'd made up on my dummy 
when I got it. Unfortunately
it's one of the rigid ones so not ideal.

Claire





> 
> Good luck!
> Melanie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] desperately seeking pattern
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:09:16 -0800
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At 06:40 PM 01/18/2002 EST, you wrote:
>I seem to remember that you can get some recently discontinued patterns from 
>the company.  Anyone else have details?  Also check their website and call 
>their toll-free number.

This is one of the Renaissance wench-ish patterns, right?  You might want to
try Ebay.  There's at least one seller who seems to have bought them up by
the hundreds and lists them constantly.

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:34:20 -0500
Status: RO

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One of the big things I saw in college was that the costume design and
fashion design majors were not taught some principles of business.  I was in
the fashion merchandising track and took design classes in both.  So many
people in the clothing industries go into business for themselves, and do
not know how to analyze cost/retail.  Then there is the marketing, keeping
the books, legal issues, taxes, etc.  It really burns me that most colleges
programs do not think that maybe these design students want to go into
business for themselves.

A suggestion, if you want to go into business for yourself, go to the your
community college or Small Business Administration and take some classes.
The SBA has a wealth of information.

I would like to share with you all someone I learned about last night.
Maybe it will give you some ideas.  I was talking on the phone last night
with one of our students.  She is in a small town, 50,000 people.  She is
about 100 miles from a large city.  This small town loves the arts and has a
wonderful theater.  She works year round for her local theater as the
costume designer.  During the day, she goes from school to school in her
district, teaching kids about costumes.  She said  that she is paid really
well by the school district to do this.  The program is called Artist in
Residence. I think the schools receive grants for these programs.  They
contract artists in their community to come in and teach their skills to the
students. (My school district has this program too!)  Now she is not just
going into the drama dept.  She is teaching across all grade levels.  Think
about how many subject areas touches onto costume.  This lady also works
wardrobe when the touring Broadway plays come into her town.  I asked her
what was the best piece of advice to offer other costumers.  She said,
"Network!! That is how you get the jobs."  BTW, this lady does not have a
degree in costume design... its in music.

You can make a living in this industry, just don't put all your cookies in
one jar.  Branch out!  Write a list of all your skills.  Think outside of
the box... how can you use your skills in your community.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>One of the big things I saw in college was that the costume design =
and
fashion design majors&nbsp;were not taught some principles of =
business.&nbsp; I
was in the fashion merchandising track and took design classes in =
both.&nbsp; So
many people in the clothing&nbsp;industries go into business for =
themselves, and
do not know how to analyze cost/retail.&nbsp; Then there is the =
marketing,
keeping the books, legal issues, taxes, etc.&nbsp; It really burns me =
that most
colleges&nbsp;programs do not think that maybe these =
design&nbsp;students want
to go into business for themselves.&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>A suggestion, if you want to go into business for yourself, go to =
the your
community college or Small Business&nbsp;Administration and take some
classes.&nbsp;&nbsp;The SBA&nbsp;has a wealth of information.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I would like to share with&nbsp;you all someone I =
learned&nbsp;about last
night.&nbsp; Maybe it will give you some ideas.&nbsp; I was talking on =
the phone
last night with one of our students.&nbsp; She is in a small town, =
50,000
people.&nbsp; She is about 100 miles from a large city.&nbsp; This small =
town
loves the arts and has a wonderful theater.&nbsp; She =
works&nbsp;year&nbsp;round
for&nbsp;her local&nbsp;theater as&nbsp;the costume designer.&nbsp; =
During the
day, she goes from school to school in her district, teaching kids about =

costumes.&nbsp; She said&nbsp; that she is paid really well by the =
school
district to do this.&nbsp; The program is called Artist in =
Residence.&nbsp;I
think the schools receive grants for these programs. =
&nbsp;They&nbsp;contract
artists in their community to come in and teach their skills to the
students.&nbsp;(My school district has this program too!) &nbsp;Now she =
is not
just going into the drama dept.&nbsp; She is teaching across all grade
levels.&nbsp;&nbsp;Think about how many subject areas touches onto
costume.&nbsp;&nbsp;This lady also works wardrobe when the touring =
Broadway
plays come into her town.&nbsp; I asked her what was the best piece of =
advice to
offer other costumers.&nbsp; She said, "Network!! That is how you get =
the
jobs."&nbsp; BTW, this lady does not have a degree in costume design... =
its in
music.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You can make a living in this industry, just don't put all your =
cookies in
one jar.&nbsp; Branch out!&nbsp; Write a list of all your skills.&nbsp; =
Think
outside of the box... how can you use your skills in your =
community.&nbsp;
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:42:37 -0500
Status: RO

At 1/18/2002 05:53 PM, you wrote:
>Christine <cedar@interlog.com> wrote:
> > From > http://100associes.free.fr/CadreArchives.html
> > click on Les Sabots.
>
>This reminds me of the story behind the word "sabotage". Factory workers threw
>their clogs into the gears, effectively shutting the place down!
>I don't have the reference for what country, incident or date it was - just
>one of those many facts gleened while researching something else...
>
>Shea

Yeah -- I heard that one too--

the workers threw their wooden shoes called "sabots" into the machinery -- 
hence the word "sabotage"

IIRC it was used in one of the Star Trek movies [the one where kirk & bones 
are on a Klingon prison world]

Kat

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sources for English mid 16th cent. non-nobles?
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:44:56 -0600
Status: RO

It depends on when "mid-century" is to you.  There's so little that it's
hard to be picky, but you can see changes over time.  These range from
middle to lower class, and there's definitely a difference.

Here are the few that I know of (in addition to the Wedding at
Bermondsey, which is a great source already mentioned by the lovely Karen):

c. 1540
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20B.jpg

1563
http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/costumes/articles/xw_132.html
You can't see much of their clothing, but they're definitely from the
lower strata.

c. 1570
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/gallery/images/middle-wmn.gif
The famous Lucas de Heere drawing.  It should be noted that he was not
English.  The lady on the right looks suspiciously like many of the
ladies in the Flemish genre paintings of this period except for her hat.
 Whether it's the same outfit or not I don't know.  For more info on the
Flemish style see 
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html
and for a great selections of paintings depicting the Flemish style see
http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm

1572
http://www.costumegallery.com/Tailors/mappeople/london.html
This one is called "London" but I'm not sure of the nationality of the
artist(s) and whether they would know what people in London were wearing.

1574
http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/costumes/articles/xw_136.html


Melanie
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:34:45 -0800
Status: RO

http://www.raveneve.com/chokers.html

http://www.familyjools.com/Bachinski/suegallery.html

http://www.sskboutique.com/set312.html

http://www.eclecticala.com/occasions/occasions1.htm

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Subject: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:38:19 -0600
Status: RO

Hi Bjarne,

usually I lurk, but you letter needs an answer.  Costume for yourself, but
don't stop costuming because people who don't understand the art don't give
you feedback you need.  What I have seen of your work is wonderful, and what
I've read of your posts sounds like this is something you have to do.
Please yourself first, and learn to say no to some of the so-called friends.
Just my two cents.

Genie

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:47:41 -0700
Status: RO

*snort*....that's a good one.....think I'll stick it in my seneschal's
folder.....
--Sue (also in the SCA)

Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> 

> 
> Wanda, that sounds like an excellent illustration of a motto I quote
> occasionally in the SCA:  "If I am the only person who can possibly
> get this job done, then there's a problem -- and it has nothing to do
> with whether I do the job or not."
> 
> Heather
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:51:56 -0700
Status: RO

I've actually avoided busks so far....I'm really large-sized, and a lot
of it is tummy, so rigid busks strike as counter-intuitive with my
current figure <g>.
--Sue

Grace Morris wrote:
> 
> Providence Day School
> Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
> 
> On 1/16/02 9:59 AM, "Deredere & Owen Iskander" <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
> 
> > I was thinking of Spain 1560-1580
> > And I was wondering if it is comfortable..
> >
> > Greetings,
> >       Deredere
> 
> Before I swore off wearing corsets( because of the heat, mostly) my corset
> had a busk.  I had no trouble with the comfort level, but it didn't extend
> too far down in front.
> 
> Grace/Jessamyn
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:12:09 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


<catching up on the pile of late list mail that dumped into my box>

On Thu, 17 Jan 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

<lots of good stuff, ending with:>
 
> Or, to put it more simply, _some_ of the styles found in 14th c.  
> Greenland were of a conservative type of cut that can also be found in
> the 12th century, however this is not because Greenland was a cultural
> backwater (since more innovative styles were also found there) but
> rather because there was some general stylistic carryover between the
> 12th and 14th centuries in some types of garments (for some classes).

As usual, Heather said it all more clearly and concretely than I could
ever manage.

If it wasn't clear when I wrote earlier, I do want to clarify now: When I
told Jean that the Greenland gowns bore little resemblance to mainland
12th century styles, I was assuming she was meaning the oft-cited 12-gore
types. As Heather notes, there are *other* Greenland gowns cut on a more
generic gored pattern that might be more likely to resemble mainland
clothing of the 12th century ... but that's primarily because this is a
common approach, not because Greenland was doing out-of-date stuff that
was directly representative of two centuries earlier. And there still are
far better ways to identify the cutting trends for 12th-century mainland
than by going to 14th century Greenland!

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 19 01:18:09 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 22:56:20 -0800
Status: RO

Years ago I gave up making costumes for anybody else, with very few
exceptions.  I hate sewing for other people, and I never get enough money
to like doing it.  So I continue making stuff for myself, and those few
friends of mine who catch me at a moment of weakness, but I got out of the
commercial sewing business.  

Please keep making things for yourself if you like to have them.  Don't
give up on costuming till your own wardrobe is properly filled.  And I'm
glad you're sticking around here.

Leif Drews writes, in a message sent 09:23 PM 1/16/02 +0100:
>Dear List.
>I have ben thinking a lot lately. Making costumes have ben a very 
>passionate thing for me, but i think that i want to give it up.
>I have supplied friends, socalled friends with costumes and i have 
>worked many many hours.  It has ben fun, but now i dont know any more. 
>When i count all the work and se what i have ben paid for doing it, it 
>is a laughing stock buisines. Perhaps it is my own faults because i have 
>not ben able to sell myself properly, and those people i have made 
>costumes for didnt say: Hey that is way two cheap! You must have more!
>It has ben ages and ages since i made clothes for myself, the house 
>sometimes have ben a mess all because i have not had the time! Really i 
>quit!
>But i want to stay with you. It is rather fun to discuss costumes with 
>you, i enjoy it very much.
>But it mostly wil be as a lurker.
>
>Bjarne
>    
>
>-- 
>
>
>Leif Drews
>Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>1635  København V
>
>Bjarne Drews
>Åboulevard 5,3.th
>1635 København V
>
>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
>My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:16:19 -0800
Status: RO

>If the world's impression of American cuisine came from greasy-spoon
>roadside restaurants, we'd be known for pretty dismal food, too.  Except
>for barbecue joints, of course :D

If the world's impression of American cuisine came from McDonald's and KFC,
nobody would ever eat here, including us.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 19 03:29:50 2002
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 08:15:53 -0000
Status: RO

>We had great Irish food in Ireland and loved just about everything we ate.
The breakfast puddn' was gross to me though.

Irelands food is very good easier to find that English food these days (in
each respective country)

>  They won't tell us what it was made of.  Anyone on here know what that
would be?

I assume pigs blood

>All of our breakfasts were ate at the B&B.  Now at this one in London she
only put out jam, milk, oj, bread, cold cereal and a toaster.

Well that is a pretty poor English breakfast !! Being in London was the B&B
person English at all ? Seems to me there are very few English people in
London these days :)

>We tried to step off the street to a nicer restaurant in the T-square, I
can't remember how to spell that, but they wouldn't wait on us.  They just
kept ignoring us and setting others that came in.  We were dressed no
differently then the others there so we finally left.

Odd !! I've been to quite a few nice resturants in London, but London ISN@T
the whole of England & not very typical at all IMHO

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 19 03:29:58 2002
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up costumes
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 08:10:44 -0000
Status: RO

>Then i need to find some porcelain doll heads and arms i could use for
this, but real grown up dolls, not child or baby heads. Anybody know of
a good online source for this?

Please contact me direct Leif, I have a friend who is doing very fine dolls,
reproductions of historial ones here in England

Mel MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com)

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: pudding (was Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:29:06 -0800
Status: RO


>specializing in Roast Beef with Yorkshire pudding...

Will someone please tell me what English 'pudding' is?  I know what my
mother used to make, but we're American, so it can't be that.  I especially
want to know what 'figgy pudding' is, as in "We all love our figgy pudding"
from the Christmas carol. 

Kayta
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From: Ella Lynoure Rajamaki <lynoure@tuug.fi>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up making costumes
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 10:50:56 +0200 (EET)
Status: RO

On Fri, 18 Jan 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> Years ago I gave up making costumes for anybody else, with very few
> exceptions.  I hate sewing for other people, and I never get enough money
> to like doing it.  So I continue making stuff for myself, and those few
> friends of mine who catch me at a moment of weakness, but I got out of the
> commercial sewing business.

Unit Pricing for Dressmaking gives good advice for this kind of
situations: If you are seriously thinking of quiting, double your prices.
It will either get you more money, more time for other activities and in
'worst' case it your clients will simply leave you (therefore, doing the
quitting for you in a rather painless way).

-- 
Lynoure Rajamaki
lynoure@tuug.fi


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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:33:41 -0800
Status: RO


> If you
>can find a large enough reproduction (I'm still looking for a really good
>one) you will be able to see a wide variety of styles for both men and
>women as well as some good documentation for Elizabethan kitchens!

There's a big one in a book about Queen Elizabeth I and her courtiers (wish
I could remember the name).  But it's a two-page spread in colour.

Kayta
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 09:24:23 -0000
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.Is there anyone out there who has or  know anyone with size 10, 11 or 12
hands ? I need some measurments for customers gloves & cannot find any

Please email me if you can help at all

Thanks

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] Academic Dress
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Hello everyone,

Does anyone in the UK know where I can get a second hand academic gown =
and mortarboard - graduate gown please.

Many thanks,

Sally Ann
medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone in the UK know where I can =
get a second
hand academic gown and mortarboard - graduate gown please.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Many thanks,</FONT></DIV>
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 13:12:14 -0000
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>Does anyone in the UK know where I can get a second hand academic gown and
mortarboard - graduate gown please.

Try asking at a university, most people hire them & the hirers might be
willing to sell

Mel

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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 14:27:22 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Melanie
This is wonderfull. Do you have some information to give me about them?
Thanks for your help!

Bjarne

Melanie Wilson wrote:

>>Then i need to find some porcelain doll heads and arms i could use for
>>
>this, but real grown up dolls, not child or baby heads. Anybody know of
>a good online source for this?
>
>Please contact me direct Leif, I have a friend who is doing very fine dolls,
>reproductions of historial ones here in England
>
>Mel MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com)
>
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-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 13:39:39 -0000
Status: RO

>This is wonderfull. Do you have some information to give me about them?
Thanks for your help!

I will get some photos & information to you and send it direct. I tried
before but my mail didn't get through, can you email me you address ?

Thanks

Mel MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sources for English mid 16th cent. non-nobles?
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 08:05:23 -0600
Status: RO

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> > If you
> >can find a large enough reproduction (I'm still looking for a really good
> >one) you will be able to see a wide variety of styles for both men and
> >women as well as some good documentation for Elizabethan kitchens!
> 
> There's a big one in a book about Queen Elizabeth I and her courtiers (wish
> I could remember the name).  But it's a two-page spread in colour.

There's a 1 1/2 page color version of part of it on p. 146-47 of _The
Horizon Book of the Elizabethan World_ by the editors of Horizon
Magazine; author Lacey Baldwin Smith.

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: [h-cost] Not dead, just sick.
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 09:17:30 EST
Status: RO


Hi Everyone,

This is the first I've logged on in 2 weeks, sorry.  People are beginning to 
call, asking if I'm alright.  Well, the truth is no.  I've been propped up in 
bed with pneumonia since Twelfth Night, and since I'm asthmatic I'm on 
hospital standby.  Doc gave me new meds yesterday, but it looks like it'll be 
another week before I begin to recover --  best case scenario.   Anyway, you 
can expect to miss me at the Scribal Symposium, fencing, on these lists, etc 
for at least that long.  

I just wanted to let everyone know that my not returning e-mails the last 2 
weeks should NOT be taken to mean that I didn't want to talk to you.  The 
computer room was just too far away.  I hope in the next few days to catch up 
on correspondence (288 e-mails according to AOL, and very little of it spam). 
 I have business with some of you that has gotten messed up from all this  -- 
garb sewing, the TV I was selling, etc.  I greatly apologize and promise to 
get caught up as soon as possible.  I'll try to contact people individually 
about that stuff over the next few days.  It'll have to be by e-mail, though, 
since I have no voice.  (Yeah, I can hear the "Lucky for Ted" jokes 
already...)

Anyway, I miss you all!
Gillian Tedcastle
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From: Liz / Cozit <cozit@home.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: Sources for English early to mid 16th cent. non-nobles?
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 10:12:48 -0500
Status: RO

I'm actually interested in all from Henry VIII's to Elizabeth's reign.  More curious
about the earlier part of the century, because I can't recall ever seeing pictures
of anyone who didn't have a lot of money/land from that period... but I'm also quite
interested in the Eliz. period common folk  as well.... especially as I haven't the
foggiest what period the faire's going to do this coming year (researching possible
characters... and hoping not to be lower gentry again this year... even though I
actually have fun with the hoops :-)

Thanks for all the links so far!  Of course, at least one of them provided another
link that got me distracted for about an hour last night, but that's always fun,
too... given that I had the time at the time :-)


-Elisabeth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 13th Century Highland questions...
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:46:00 -0800
Status: RO

At 2:09 PM -0500 1/18/02, Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:

>Did you see the link on my page to the Rogart Shirt? I think Marc Carlson
>has a page up on that, too.  It's an actual early medieval Irish garment.

 
^^^^^
 
Scottish

(But I figure from context that was what you meant to say.)

I don't believe it was from the highlands, though.

Heather
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sources for English mid 16th cent. non-nobles?
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:20:56 -0800
Status: RO

At 5:56 PM -0500 1/18/02, Liz / Cozit wrote:
>Changing social classes that I usually look at, I'm starting to look 
>for sources for what a tenant farmer's wife (any level... from those 
>at the top who'd likely have a few servants, down to those who 
>*might* only have the one dress at a time) might wear... in England, 
>within 50 miles of London, during the mid 1500s.
>
>Thinking about it logically, I'd guess that a well off family might 
>be dressed similarly to nobility... in style, but not in fabric and 
>color choices. ... but what the "next" level down, where the wife 
>might help in the fields or with animals occasionally, rather than 
>"just" within the house and kitchen gardens.... who *might* have one 
>girl to help out, I'm having trouble figuring out.  Either way, I'm 
>also guessing that the bumroll might cover both those levels, but no
>lower along the scale.  And for those who would likely get their 
>next outfit as the last one was on it's last many turned legs, I 
>haven't a clue what style they would choose to cut the fabric.
>
>I either have glossed over, or haven't seen many paintings with 
>"villagers" in them, at a size where you could have even an educated 
>guess at what the dress actually looked like.
>
>Can anyone point me in a good starting direction?  (or even a so so one?)


One source you might find very useful would be wills -- the general 
range of goods listed would give you a notion of the economic status 
of the individual, and middle-class wills often list ordinary 
clothing fairly extensively.

Heather
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 19:30:40 -0000
Status: RO

There are two organisations, as far as I know, who hire and they are not
forthcoming.  I work in a University so this was my first try but to no
avail, I'm afraid.

SA

----- Original Message -----
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress


> >Does anyone in the UK know where I can get a second hand academic gown
and
> mortarboard - graduate gown please.
>
> Try asking at a university, most people hire them & the hirers might be
> willing to sell
>
> Mel
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 11:35:45 -0800
Status: RO


 -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Kevin + Mara Riley
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
>
>
> At 11:01 AM 01/16/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> (snip)
> >On a similar note-My husband mundanely works for a swordsmith, my hubbys
> boss
> >is (finally) seriously thinking of adding a busk dagger to his ilne of
> >weapons. This after my nagging him for 3 years. The questions I have
> >are-would you as re-enactors/recreationists be interested in owning a busk
> >dagger, what price range would the corsetiers on list be willing to pay,
> what
> >would you look for in one (size range, materials for the sheathe, length of
> >actual dagger, would a dagger be best or would a stilletto be preferrred
> >etc). Please let me know either on or off list.
> >In Service,
> >Lady G
>
> Isn't the "cleavage dagger" somewhat of a RennFaire invention?
>
> -- Mara

Yes!  It took a while but I think we finally eradicated it at our big faire
(RPFS).  I sort of hoped it had disappeared altogether.  Oh well.

MaggiRos


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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Re: Sources for English early to mid 16th cent. non-nobles?
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 12:09:06 -0800
Status: RO

For general Elizabethan details, don't forget my site!  :-)
http://ren.dm.net

Good links too.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Liz / Cozit
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 7:13 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: Sources for English early to mid 16th cent.
> non-nobles?
>
>
> I'm actually interested in all from Henry VIII's to Elizabeth's
> reign.  More curious
> about the earlier part of the century, because I can't recall ever
> seeing pictures
> of anyone who didn't have a lot of money/land from that period... but
> I'm also quite
> interested in the Eliz. period common folk  as well.... especially as
<snip>


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dorothy Dodderidge's Tomb Effigy
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 12:27:29 -0800
Status: RO

Amazing, isn't she? <g>

There's a picture of both Dorothy's and her husband's tombs at:
http://www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk/Tour/Tour16.html

And a fairly good close-up of Dorothy at:
http://www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk/Gallery/Others/T15.html

You can buy a photo card of this picture through the Cathedral Shop at:
http://www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk/Shop/Collectors.html

There is also a booklet that is likely to have more information, available at
http://www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk/Shop/Books.html:
>Exeter Cathedral Tombs and Monuments Trail
>A guide to the more notable of Exeter's many monuments, complete 
>with plan of the cathedral. Price: 60p

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
At 7:49 AM +0000 1/18/02, Linda Walton wrote:
>Yesterday I bought an old tourist guide to Devonshire (U.K.), and found this
>description.
>
>"Dorothy Dodderidge, nee Bampfield, 1582-1614.
>Dorothy, the wife of John Dodderidge, Solicitor General and Judge in the
>reign of James I, died in childbirth.  Little is known of her personally,
>but a visit to her tomb on the north side of the Lady Chapel in Exeter
>Cathedral is well worthwhile.  The effigy shows her lying sideways, resting
>on her right elbow and looking rather uncomfortable, but it is her clothes
>that deserve close inspection.  Dorothy wears an interesting head-dress, a
>ruff and a beautiful flower-patterned dress, which has a lace collar and
>cuffs."
>
>Now, this is clean outside any period I've ever been interested in before,
>but somehow these words and the tiny, poorly reproduced black-and-white
>photograph have captured my imagination.  Does anyone know where I can find
>more information, and preferably some good photographs?

-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 19 15:37:14 2002
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] desperately seeking pattern
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 13:10:46 -0800
Status: RO

>This is one of the Renaissance wench-ish patterns, right?  You might want 
>to
>try Ebay.  There's at least one seller who seems to have bought them up by
>the hundreds and lists them constantly.
>
>Margo
>
>
No, this is a Jessica McKlintock formal/eveningwear pattern.  Its a bodice 
with a slightly rounded (not pointed)front and the shoulder straps are set 
far enough out that I don't have to alter them to attach the angelwing 
sleeves the girls want.  I'm lacing instead of zipping so they can still 
breath and sing during those monthly "larger" times.  I just thought it was 
the best design for flattering all of the different shapes of girls without 
singling out any one in particular.  Softer lines and less of a front to 
flip up on the large ones.  AAACCCKKK!!  What am I?  Crazy??

Jennifer

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 19 15:58:07 2002
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] giving up costumes
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 13:31:22 -0800
Status: RO

My mother-in-law made dolls for a while and she bought a mold to make her 
own parts.  I don't remember exactly what she made them from, but she can be 
reached at marlenedg@earthlink.net .  She made fabulous dolls and I'm sure 
would be happy to share her knowledge.

Jennifer

PS. Just tell her Jen sent you.  ;)


>From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] giving up costumes
>Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 17:42:53 +0100
>
>Hello all!
>I am overwhelmed by your kind conserns about my situation. It is so kind
>of you all to write all those good thoaghts MANY THANKS :-)
>Well i wont give up doing it, it is just i wont do it cheap for others
>anymore! I know that there will be much less to do this way, but then i
>have thoaght that i would start to make historical fashion dolls. Give
>the costumes real miniature lace and embroidery and then try to sell it
>on ebay.
>Another thing i could do is making lace hankerchiefs and sell them on
>ebay. Tere i can put a minimum bit to it and be sure to get a reasonable
>price.
>Then i need to find some porcelain doll heads and arms i could use for
>this, but real grown up dolls, not child or baby heads. Anybody know of
>a good online source for this?
>Thankyou so much for you all for the kind words!  Blushing :-)
>
>Bjarne
>
>Leif Drews
>Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>1635  København V
>
>Bjarne Drews
>Åboulevard 5,3.th
>1635 København V
>
>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
>My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 21:53:58 GMT
Status: RO

On Sat, 19 Jan 2002 11:35:45 -0800, the following was written in this
electric book by "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>:

>
>
>Yes!  It took a while but I think we finally eradicated it at our big faire
>(RPFS).  I sort of hoped it had disappeared altogether.  Oh well.
>

Actually, I think that they really *did* exist, but not as
dagger-shaped things, adn certainly not as a common item. ISTR (no
idea which book, though, sadly, though I think it was in one of my
ex's arms and armour books) seeing a photograph of a busk that
*contained* a secret short (very short) dagger, in the same manner
that swordcanes contain swords. IIRC it was supposed to date to the
mid 17th century.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 17:03:06 EST
Status: RO


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       I get a lot of my bear parts from CR's crafts.  
 <A HREF="http://www.crscraft.com/crcsite1/Lobby.asp?crcid=9P340U9WXGBF8H6CS8X721F3G20C3U91">CRSCrafts.com - Bear & Doll Supplies - Lobby</A> .  They are good people to 
order from and I have been quite happy with their service and supplies.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I get a lot of my bear parts from CR's crafts. &nbsp;
<BR> <A HREF="http://www.crscraft.com/crcsite1/Lobby.asp?crcid=9P340U9WXGBF8H6CS8X721F3G20C3U91">CRSCrafts.com - Bear &amp; Doll Supplies - Lobby</A> . &nbsp;They are good people to order from and I have been quite happy with their service and supplies. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_131.76f2432.297b471a_boundary--
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 22:36:11 -0000
Status: RO

It that case I'm not sure, what is it for, ie long term or a one off ?

Mel

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 14:45:37 -0800
Status: RO

Mid-17th is a little late for an Elizabethan faire :)  Plus, the people most
likely to be found with the things at Faire seemed to be the noble ladies.  All
very bizarre, especially since the dagger tends to throw off the line of the
bodice.  I had one lady looping up her pearls on the exposed hilt. Charming.

It was a trend.  I even wore one myself for a while! (a long long time ago,
believe me) <g>  But then you learn more and it begins to dawn that you're doing
this because others are, but come to think of it, it doesn't seem to be
documentable.  Not for Elizabethan court ladies, certainly. And if you care
about such things, the charm wears off pretty quick.

I still have the knife.  A very nice piece by Jody Samson, custom made for me.
Oh well.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of chimericalgirl@attbi.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 1:54 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
>
>
> On Sat, 19 Jan 2002 11:35:45 -0800, the following was written in this
> electric book by "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>:
>
> >
> >
> >Yes!  It took a while but I think we finally eradicated it at our big faire
> >(RPFS).  I sort of hoped it had disappeared altogether.  Oh well.
> >
>
> Actually, I think that they really *did* exist, but not as
> dagger-shaped things, adn certainly not as a common item. ISTR (no
> idea which book, though, sadly, though I think it was in one of my
> ex's arms and armour books) seeing a photograph of a busk that
> *contained* a secret short (very short) dagger, in the same manner
> that swordcanes contain swords. IIRC it was supposed to date to the
> mid 17th century.
>
> Maura
> ---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
> "We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either
> hand..." - the Flash Girls
>         }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 19 18:09:05 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 18:57:56 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Well, I just had a weird experience.

I was dyeing some wool, and I threw in a hunk of silk as well. This was a
four-yard piece, strong suit weight, herringbone weave, in a pale yellow.
I had test-dyed a swatch and knew it would take the dye. Before that I had
burn-tested it, and there's no doubt it's the 100 percent silk it was
labeled as being. (Linda, this is the same stuff I sold you.)

During the course of the hot-water wash and dye bath, the silk *fulled*.
There is no other word for it. It thickened, and the surface texture is
now that of a heavy brushed cotton or a suedecloth -- it feels almost like
a short-napped velvet. The herringbone weave, formerly very prominent, is
now barely distinguishable, and only if you know what to look for. It is
wonderfully heavy and drapes beautifully.

The only problem: it shrank from almost four yards to 3 1/3. I didn't know
silk could shrink, but all that fulled thickness had to come from
somewhere! At four yards, I could have made a sleeveless 13th-century
overtunic or a 12th-century close-fitting underdress. At 3 1/3 yards, I
can do neither. (It's now about 42 inches wide.)

I will find *something* to do with it eventually, though it may end up
going to someone shorter than me.

On the plus side, I have eight more yards I haven't touched. Even with
shrinkage, that could turn into enough heavy silk for a 14th or 15th c.
overgown. Oh, wow...

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk Question
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 19:07:03 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 19/1/02 4:51:35 PM, maggiros@adelphia.net writes:
<<  especially since the dagger tends to throw off the line of the bodice.  >>

Exactly my point. Busc daggers were worn in the busc casing of the corset, 
not slipped between the boobage. Worn properly they are part of the corset 
and add to the line of the bodice rather than poking out. Wearing them the 
way they are worn at faire makes wearing a concealed weapon [which is what 
they are supposed to be] a moot point anyway. They seem to be worn with the 
attitude of "Look at my dagger while you're admiring my 'clams on the 
beach'". Terribly silly at best.
>>Mid-17th is a little late for an Elizabethan faire :)<< 
Most late period Recreationists go to 1650ish, which would make it period for 
them if not for rennies.
Lady G
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 20:31:34 -0500
Status: RO

At 06:18 PM 01/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>   Kirstie stuff is all great.  Most of the knit caps used at Jamestowne
>settlement were supplied by her, as well as a few scotch bonnets worn where
>I work.  Apparently she is charging Americans a "pain in the but" charge due
>to some unfortunate thefts (according to one of her customers and
>acquaintances that I know not per her words directly). For any considering
>it her work is excellent, the wool is usually vegetable dyed and she does
>several different designs.  The caps seem to average just under $100 and
>apparently there is a year backlog presently.

Having made several Scots bonnets from fleece to finished product, I'd say
that $100 is actually a bargain. I got bored with them after making the
third one, and have sworn never to knit another :D  

That's another problem with getting into the business of making clothes for
other people: production work.  If you're making the same thing over and
over, it gets boring very quickly.  One-off projects are much more
interesting -- and time-consuming, because you're figuring things out as
you go along.  Not my cup o' tea!

-- Mara



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glass beads used as buttons?
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 20:57:12 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. I am not thinking pre 1600 here, but there are extant ones that were
excavated in Maryland, circa 1640s (actual glass buttons, that is, not
beads used that way). I have a copy of one on my hat, similar to a
painting of a Thirty Years War soldier that I have seen (it is black
with a metal shank). No doubt they were using them earlier, but I'm
curious about documentation myself. Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 23:17:04 -0500
Status: RO

Well, that's interesting...

How did you dye it? Machine? And it still drapes well? What dye? Do you 
think there might have been a chemical reaction, together with heat and 
agitation? Sounds as if it was a dense weave to begin with, am I right?

It sounds very attractive. Though surprising! Thanks for telling us 
about it.

Anne

Robin Netherton wrote:

>Well, I just had a weird experience.
>
>I was dyeing some wool, and I threw in a hunk of silk as well. This was a
>four-yard piece, strong suit weight, herringbone weave, in a pale yellow.
>I had test-dyed a swatch and knew it would take the dye. Before that I had
>burn-tested it, and there's no doubt it's the 100 percent silk it was
>labeled as being. (Linda, this is the same stuff I sold you.)
>
>During the course of the hot-water wash and dye bath, the silk *fulled*.
>There is no other word for it. It thickened, and the surface texture is
>now that of a heavy brushed cotton or a suedecloth -- it feels almost like
>a short-napped velvet. The herringbone weave, formerly very prominent, is
>now barely distinguishable, and only if you know what to look for. It is
>wonderfully heavy and drapes beautifully.
>
>The only problem: it shrank from almost four yards to 3 1/3. I didn't know
>silk could shrink, but all that fulled thickness had to come from
>somewhere! At four yards, I could have made a sleeveless 13th-century
>overtunic or a 12th-century close-fitting underdress. At 3 1/3 yards, I
>can do neither. (It's now about 42 inches wide.)
>
>I will find *something* to do with it eventually, though it may end up
>going to someone shorter than me.
>
>On the plus side, I have eight more yards I haven't touched. Even with
>shrinkage, that could turn into enough heavy silk for a 14th or 15th c.
>overgown. Oh, wow...
>
>--Robin
>
>_______________________________________________
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>


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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 21:56:51 -0700
Status: RO

*sigh*....I think I've got a roaring good case of silk envy.....It
sounds absolutely yummy.....
--Sue (going back to combing through her fabric stashes to get rid of
all of the Fabric Unsuitable and Inauthentic for Pre-17th Century Use
[and blaming it all on Robin] <g>)

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On the plus side, I have eight more yards I haven't touched. Even with
> shrinkage, that could turn into enough heavy silk for a 14th or 15th c.
> overgown. Oh, wow...
>
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 01:23:31 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 19 Jan 2002, A F Murphy wrote:

> How did you dye it? Machine? And it still drapes well? What dye?

I will confess: I used Rit! In the washer! Agitating for an hour in hot
water! In other words, I broke all the rules. But it worked.

I always test-dye swatches first, as I've found not all Rit colors work on
all fabrics. (To test: mix 1/2 tsp liquid dye with 1/2 cup boiling water
in a glass Pyrex custard cup, and toss in a washed wet swatch and let
soak.) This batch was mostly wool, and I tested six or seven colors first.
Only the red ranges would "take" on this particular wool; the blues and
greens did not. I used mostly Cardinal Red with a stray bottle of Scarlet;
the wool started out taupe, and the result looks like a madder dye, a dark
red with a brown undertone.  I threw the silk in at the last minute (I'd
already test-dyed it), because there was room in the washer. The silk came
out a strong, deep red.

Both the wool and the silk have some small irregularities in the dye, in
the form of barely darker or lighter streaks, as happens when the stuff
twists up in the washer (even though I kept untwisting and rearranging
it), but the irregularities aren't really displeasing; they blend in with
the overall texture.

The wool fulled a little too, even though it was worsted, but I have found
that worsted sometimes fuzzes/fulls a bit under harsh treatment, such as
the long agitation in hot water involved in dyeing. I wouldn't use this
for fancy high-nobility clothing, but it will make a very presentable
basic medieval gown.

> Do you think there might have been a chemical reaction, together with
> heat and agitation? Sounds as if it was a dense weave to begin with,
> am I right?

Yes -- on the heavy side of suiting fabric, like a tweed but in silk, if
you can imagine that.

It still feels really silky, too, despite the weight. I think I've come up
with something that's more like medieval silk than anything I've ever seen
in a store. It makes me think of the heavy silks you sometimes see in
museums as chair cushions or ecclesiastical robes. Or the scarlet silks
you can see traces of riveted to armor!

Oh, I misspoke -- I have even less of it than I thought. Only 2 3/4 yards.
I think I know what I might do with it, but it's not a top priority
project, so I'll wait a while. What it really wants to be is a man's short
cotehardie or pourpoint -- strong, lots of integriety, but really
luxurious. But I have no need to make men's clothing at this point, and no
friends with such need, and I wouldn't waste it on a stranger.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Dorothy Dodderidge - Thank You
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 06:22:31 -0000
Status: RO

Thank you for all the links to information on this lady.

Now I'm even more fascinated - especially by her head-dress.  How I long to
be able to peer closely at her outfit, and to pop a mirror behind her head !
She must have been a stunner in life.

Linda Walton.

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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 07:56:01 -0000
Status: RO

Why not make glass buttons the techniques are not so differant

Mel 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 07:24:53 -0500
Status: RO

Well, Robin, I'm sure glad that we found this out *before* I washed it!!!
<g>  I love this fabric just as it is, and now I'm torn between making a
Viking dress or experimenting to see if I can replicate your results. It
sounds wonderful, and as you say, not at all something easily found at the
store.  I would love to know where we can get more of this! If I full it
down, it won't be enough for a dress for me.  I'm quite a bit taller and
stouter than you, Robin.

I bought some silk suiting from fabric.com earlier this year, a brown/cream
herringbone.  I did wash it, on cold, and put it in the gas dryer on hot. It
did seem to shrink, the pattern was noticibly smaller, but it didn't get
thick as you describe.  The surface texture got very soft, and most people
thought it was a wool or cotton blend.  Almost no one believes that it is
silk. (The viking style pants I made for my housemate have held up quite
well, and have become his favorite.)  I also noticed that the heavy wool
that I got from you is extremely soft.  Do you use a lot of fabric
softeners, or perhaps you have a water softener at your house?  My point
being that maybe you have better water than I do here, which would account
for a lot.  We are on icky city water, which is heavy in chlorine.  I don't
drink it, but I have to wash with it.

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va. USA

----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Netherton
To: Historic Costume List
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 7:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!

I was dyeing some wool, and I threw in a hunk of silk as well. This was a
four-yard piece, strong suit weight, herringbone weave, in a pale yellow.
I had test-dyed a swatch and knew it would take the dye. Before that I had
burn-tested it, and there's no doubt it's the 100 percent silk it was
labeled as being. (Linda, this is the same stuff I sold you.)

During the course of the hot-water wash and dye bath, the silk *fulled*.
There is no other word for it. It thickened, and the surface texture is
now that of a heavy brushed cotton or a suedecloth -- it feels almost like
a short-napped velvet. The herringbone weave, formerly very prominent, is
now barely distinguishable, and only if you know what to look for. It is
wonderfully heavy and drapes beautifully.



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:07:23 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 20 Jan 2002, Linda Rice wrote:

> Well, Robin, I'm sure glad that we found this out *before* I washed
> it!!!

I'd guess that if you wash it in cold, with delicate handling, you won't
have the effect I did.

> I would love to know where we can get more of this!

The outlet I got it from deals in leftovers from New York designers,
particularly lots of wools and wool blends, linen blends, silks (mostly
silk tie and blouse prints!), and mystery fabrics that are honestly
labeled as such. (They're on the Web as Fashion Fabrics Outlet, but the
Web side of the operation does not have the same merchandise as is in the
open-to-the-public warehouse here in town.) I bought all of that
particular silk except (1) what my friend got, (2) some dark taupe that
didn't look really dyeable, but I might go back for anyway, and (3) a long
piece that turned out to have flaws in the color (stripey sections) that
probably would still be visible after dyeing. The manager checked the back
room *and* the Web site stock; there is no more.

> I bought some silk suiting from fabric.com earlier this year, a
> brown/cream herringbone.  I did wash it, on cold, and put it in the
> gas dryer on hot. It did seem to shrink, the pattern was noticibly
> smaller, but it didn't get thick as you describe.  The surface texture
> got very soft, and most people thought it was a wool or cotton blend.  
> Almost no one believes that it is silk.

Does it still have that silky feeling when you touch it -- where the very
fine fibers catch on the roughness of your skin? If not, I'd wonder myself
whether it was really silk.

> I also noticed that the heavy wool that I got from you is extremely
> soft.  Do you use a lot of fabric softeners, or perhaps you have a
> water softener at your house?  My point being that maybe you
> have better water than I do here, which would account for a lot. 

I experimented with that one in the fulling, and at one point did use a
fabric softener, but I do not normally, and the fabric was really soft to
start with anyway. We do have good water, neither too soft nor too hard.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 09:08:36 -0800
Status: RO

I put this list of links together for another list and thought more
people might as well have it.
Vintage clothing shows also usually take out ads in the local daily,
plus
regional antiques magazines/newspapers--the kind they leave out free
at antique stores.

Here are some links to show websites:

The Maven Company, Inc.
http://www.mavencompany.com/

NW Vintage Expo
http://www.neens.com/page2.htm

Stella Show Management Co
http://www.antiqnet.com/Stella/

The Stratford Armory Vintage Clothing, Jewelry & Textiles Show & Sale
http://vintagefashionandtextileshow.com/press.html

Sturbridge Antique Textile & Vintage Clothing Extravaganza 2002
http://vintagefashionandtextileshow.com/press.html

The Toronto Vintage Clothing  and Textile 11thAnniversary Show & Sale
http://www.shopyank.com/torontoantiques/vintage.html

Victorian Elegance show
http://www.victorianshow.com/VE_about.htm

Vintage Fashion Expositions
http://www.vintagesilhouettes.com/ve/ve.htm

That's not all of them but it's what I could dig up quickly.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:09:17 -0500
Status: RO

This is really cool!

People who never break the rules never make the discoveries... (Of 
course, they also don't risk messing something up. But some would think 
you had ruined this, because it shrank, and you know better!)

I wonder if the agitation with the wool was also a factor? Rubbing 
against the other fabric? The hand sounds wonderful... I want to be 
there and touch it.

Definitely make it into what it wants to be! Surely it has earned that 
right! *G* Can't force an independent minded bit of fabric into 
something else...

Anne

Robin Netherton wrote:

>
>I will confess: I used Rit! In the washer! Agitating for an hour in hot
>water! In other words, I broke all the rules. But it worked.
> 
>

>
>   ...   on the heavy side of suiting fabric, like a tweed but in silk, if
>you can imagine that.
>
>It still feels really silky, too, despite the weight. I think I've come up
>with something that's more like medieval silk than anything I've ever seen
>in a store. It makes me think of the heavy silks you sometimes see in
>museums as chair cushions or ecclesiastical robes. Or the scarlet silks
>you can see traces of riveted to armor!
>

> What it really wants to be is a man's short
>cotehardie or pourpoint -- strong, lots of integriety, but really
>luxurious. But I have no need to make men's clothing at this point, and no
>friends with such need, and I wouldn't waste it on a stranger.
>
>--Robin
>

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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:20:13 -0500
Status: RO



I am not defending people who are rude and who expect to get something for
nothing. But let's not forget that not everyone has enough money to afford
well-made custom costumes (or modern clothes, for that matter). I personally
know several excellent historic clothes makers whose work I love but cannot
afford -- not because I don't think it's worth it, but because I simply do
not have money to pay for their work. Even my future savings is spoken for
at the moment.

I know that everyone knows this already, and that no one meant to say that
people who won't pay for quality work are all awful. But I thought I'd put
in a little reminder, because the tone of the posts is getting a little
strident. We all love Bjarne, whether we've met him or not, and we think he
deserves a king's ransom for his work. And many of us, it seems, have been
burned by rude customers. But the fact that many people won't pay $100 for a
knitted thrum hat (to use a recent example) does not mean that they're all
cheap. That's a lot of money, and if you want one of those hats but don't
have a spare $100, then you either save, try to make one yourself (if you
can knit), fake it, or go without. None of those solutions is bad. Many of
us on this list sew, not because we love sewing, but because we want
costumes and can't afford to have other people make them for us.

Just keeping the peace --


Gail Finke


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: figgy pudding, British food
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:35:08 -0500
Status: RO


My next-door neighbor used to make a Christmas pudding from a family recipe
that came from England (where -- I believe -- pudding is a word that means
"dessert" and not the custardy-thing we use it for). It was a very dense and
wet kind of cake full of fruit and soaked in rum, with an extremely strong
flavor. It was small, about 6 or 7 inches in circumference, molded to a
shape (I think it was made in a mini Bundt pan), and you ate it by slices
about 1/4 of an inch thick.

I don't know if that's a "figgy pudding" but it was definitely a "pudding."
I think it was the kind that can be set on fire for effect, but they gave us
hunks and didn't do any pyrotechnics.

I have been to England 3 times and I had very good food there each time,
even in London. The London B&Bs I went to generally had cold breakfasts
(hey, there's always Weetabix!), but outside of London we always had "full
English breakfast" which mystified me by usually including tomatoes. We do
not eat tomatoes in the US at breakfast, at least in the East and MidWest.
(One of my trips was a summer school trip, where we stayed at Trinity
College, Oxford, and ate at their Hall -- we had tomatoes every meal.) We
had wonderful sandwiches from street vendors in London, lots of good Indian
food, good meals at pubs and restaurants, great fish and chips, and great
sandwiches and pasties from bakeries.

If you are going to England, try all sorts of places. Ask for
recommendations from your hotel, B&B, or the tourist bureau. If you are on a
budget, stay at B&Bs and have lunch at bakeries. That will give you two
cheap meals, anyway.

Gail Finke



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 13:08:41 -0500
Status: RO

But that's not what we are talking about, here.  No, none of those 
solutions is bad. I don't have money for these things myself. (And if 
anyone can tell me how to make a Thrum cap, I'd be delighted! Or point 
me towards source material, so I can research it. But I'll do the actual 
work myself, if I decide I want one.)

What you don't do is ask someone else to make it for you, at a price 
that comes down to about $1.00 an hour... or less. Or reach an 
agreement, then start adding things on. Or assume that the person should 
work for free, because she does this for fun. I've had all of these 
happen... not just in historic costume, either.

And part of the problem is that most people truly have no idea how time 
consuming costuming is. They think they are asking for an afternoon's 
work, when it will take about a week. And, although they know they can't 
do it, they don't really think of sewing as skilled, because their 
grandmothers used to do it... (All kinds of Women's Work issues here! 
*G*) So, you surely don't earn what they do per hour, because you don't 
have their background and training. And surely this will take about 
three hours, not 15-20. And here we see our problem...

Anne

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>  That's a lot of money, and if you want one of those hats but don't
>have a spare $100, then you either save, try to make one yourself (if you
>can knit), fake it, or go without. None of those solutions is bad.
>
>
>Just keeping the peace --
>
>
>Gail Finke
>
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: figgy pudding, British food
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       Sounds a lot like the plum pudding my family always has for Christmas. 
 But ours isn't cooked in a mold.  It is packed into cheese cloth and 
suspended in a steamer and steamed for hours.  It ends up being pretty much 
of a round shape and is wonderful with a hard sauce made with confectioners 
sugar, butter and rum.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sounds a lot like the plum pudding my family always has for Christmas. &nbsp;But ours isn't cooked in a mold. &nbsp;It is packed into cheese cloth and suspended in a steamer and steamed for hours. &nbsp;It ends up being pretty much of a round shape and is wonderful with a hard sauce made with confectioners sugar, butter and rum. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
In-Reply-To: <3C4A44C0.4010509@earthlink.net> "from A F Murphy at Jan 19, 2002
 11:17:04 pm"
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:09:45 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I think perhaps the silk just got confused and thought it was wool,
rather like a little kitten raised among puppies.

:)

.heather.


> Well, that's interesting...
> 
> How did you dye it? Machine? And it still drapes well? What dye? Do you 
> think there might have been a chemical reaction, together with heat and 
> agitation? Sounds as if it was a dense weave to begin with, am I right?
> 
> It sounds very attractive. Though surprising! Thanks for telling us 
> about it.
> 
> Anne
> 
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> >Well, I just had a weird experience.
> >
> >I was dyeing some wool, and I threw in a hunk of silk as well. This was a
> >four-yard piece, strong suit weight, herringbone weave, in a pale yellow.
> >I had test-dyed a swatch and knew it would take the dye. Before that I had
> >burn-tested it, and there's no doubt it's the 100 percent silk it was
> >labeled as being. (Linda, this is the same stuff I sold you.)
> >
> >During the course of the hot-water wash and dye bath, the silk *fulled*.
> >There is no other word for it. It thickened, and the surface texture is
> >now that of a heavy brushed cotton or a suedecloth -- it feels almost like
> >a short-napped velvet. The herringbone weave, formerly very prominent, is
> >now barely distinguishable, and only if you know what to look for. It is
> >wonderfully heavy and drapes beautifully.
> >
> >The only problem: it shrank from almost four yards to 3 1/3. I didn't know
> >silk could shrink, but all that fulled thickness had to come from
> >somewhere! At four yards, I could have made a sleeveless 13th-century
> >overtunic or a 12th-century close-fitting underdress. At 3 1/3 yards, I
> >can do neither. (It's now about 42 inches wide.)
> >
> >I will find *something* to do with it eventually, though it may end up
> >going to someone shorter than me.
> >
> >On the plus side, I have eight more yards I haven't touched. Even with
> >shrinkage, that could turn into enough heavy silk for a 14th or 15th c.
> >overgown. Oh, wow...
> >
> >--Robin
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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       You are absolutely right that a lot of us can not afford to spend a 
lot of money for costumes.  But there are a lot of people who can afford to, 
but simply will not give up their money for something decent when they can 
get junk for less from a catalog.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;You are absolutely right that a lot of us can not afford to spend a lot of money for costumes. &nbsp;But there are a lot of people who can afford to, but simply will not give up their money for something decent when they can get junk for less from a catalog.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From: Linda Thompson <lindastb@home.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Large cup bras online?
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:15:16 -0600
Status: RO

Hello all,
I have a friend that wanted to know if I can find a source for her 
daughter-in-law.  She is pregnant and has a bra size of 36H, and is 
having no luck in finding bras in that size.  Any ideas of any online 
companies that might go that high in cup size?  I really do not want to 
sew bras for her if I can get around it.
Thank you kindly

  Ooh had our first snow of the season yesterday... its beautiful.

Linda T
www.seams-to-be.com

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In a message dated 1/20/02 1:11:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
alice@wonderland.com writes:


> rather like a little kitten raised among puppies.
> 
       Most kittens raised with puppies would soon teach them that they 
should behave like kittens.  One kitten can easily train a half dozen pups 
(or one adult human).

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/20/02 1:11:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, alice@wonderland.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">rather like a little kitten raised among puppies.
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Most kittens raised with puppies would soon teach them that they should behave like kittens. &nbsp;One kitten can easily train a half dozen pups (or one adult human).
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:19:23 -0800 (PST)
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--- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote:
Or assume
> that the person should 
> work for free, because she does this for fun. 

This is indeed an issue that cuts across the arts in
general.  I wish I had a dollar for everytime I've
heard some variation -- usually from a terribly
earnest little old lady at church -- of "But,
Dear...Your lovely voice is a gift from God.  You
shouldn't charge for sharing it."  These same people
would never dream of trying that same line on the
plumber or the dry cleaner.

And I sometimes do perform gratis for people who
genuinely appreciate what I do but just can't afford
it.  That's very different from people with plenty of
money who simply de-value my time & talent.  Also, I
try to limit free gigs, both musically and sewing-wise
because I have lots of friends out there "in the
trenches" struggling to make a living at their art.  I
feel I'm threatening their right to a livelihood if I
do too much free stuff.

just my 2 cents worth on an issue that I get touchy
about!!  :-)

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a sevant?"

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 20 12:48:59 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Large cup bras online?
In-Reply-To: <3C4B0934.8060006@home.com> "from Linda Thompson at Jan 20, 2002
 12:15:16 pm"
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:23:15 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Why yes!

Tell her to try inchant.com, they make custom sized bras, and have many
in stock.  Also I'd recommend herroom.com - they have a great comparison
system for shopping online.  Aviana bras, which you can locate with a google
search, go up to a G cup, but it's a larger G cup, and are
very comfy.

For pregnancy I'd also recommend decentexposures.com - they make soft stretchy
bras that are comfortable for gaining lots of weight, and you can go ahead
and order them as nursing bras too.  I'm around her size, and I use 
decent exposures for sleep bras - they are wonderfully comfortable and
last forever.  The favorite one I have now is ten years old and the only
sign of wear it shows is that the black is somewhat faded - the stretch-iness
has miraculously held up.

I have dozens more bookmarked, but those are the ones I have personal experience
with and recommend.  

:)
.heather.meadows.


> Hello all,
> I have a friend that wanted to know if I can find a source for her 
> daughter-in-law.  She is pregnant and has a bra size of 36H, and is 
> having no luck in finding bras in that size.  Any ideas of any online 
> companies that might go that high in cup size?  I really do not want to 
> sew bras for her if I can get around it.
> Thank you kindly
> 
>   Ooh had our first snow of the season yesterday... its beautiful.
> 
> Linda T
> www.seams-to-be.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
In-Reply-To: <115.b2cda59.297c6392@aol.com> "from LalahTT@aol.com at Jan 20,
 2002 01:16:50 pm"
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:24:23 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Well, one of ours is apparently pretty convinced he's a rottweiler - 
he just flops down on the floor next to the rotties and tries
to steal their bones.  It's pretty cute.

.heather.


> In a message dated 1/20/02 1:11:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> alice@wonderland.com writes:
> 
> 
> > rather like a little kitten raised among puppies.
> > 
>        Most kittens raised with puppies would soon teach them that they 
> should behave like kittens.  One kitten can easily train a half dozen pups 
> (or one adult human).
> 
> Lalah
> Never Give up, Never Surrender,
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
> http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
> 
> 

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In a message dated 1/20/2002 1:11:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
afmmurphy@earthlink.net writes:


> And part of the problem is that most people truly have no idea how time 
> consuming costuming is. 

This is completely understandable considering they just run to the store and 
pull clothes off a rack...why not costumes?....and if they did any theatre in 
High School, they saw how it was thrown together. It's JUST a costume.

But what is one supposed to think of the owner of the rental place across 
from the film studio here who wanted me to make for her mid-19th century 
gowns, with hoop, for $100....which she then rents for $150?

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/20/2002 1:11:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, afmmurphy@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">And part of the problem is that most people truly have no idea how time 
<BR>consuming costuming is. </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>This is completely understandable considering they just run to the store and pull clothes off a rack...why not costumes?....and if they did any theatre in High School, they saw how it was thrown together. It's JUST a costume.
<BR>
<BR>But what is one supposed to think of the owner of the rental place across from the film studio here who wanted me to make for her mid-19th century gowns, with hoop, for $100....which she then rents for $150?</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 1/20/02 10:11:06 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
afmmurphy@earthlink.net writes:


> And part of the problem is that most people truly have no idea how time 
> consuming costuming is. They think they are asking for an afternoon's 
> 

Even "friends" have this mentality.  I'm contemplating telling one certain 
friend, the next time she asks me to sew for free, "ok, the woodwork on the 
front of my house needs painting.  If I am doing something for you, you 
should be doing something for me."  This gal is constantly thinking of new 
garb she wants, for herself and her husband, and expects me to sew for free.

Another thing I HATE is people asking me to alter garb.  Please save me from 
those who receive worn-out, second-hand garb and want me to make it fit, or 
fix it!

Katrin

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#0000a0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>In a message dated 1/20/02 10:11:06 AM Pacific Standard Time, afmmurphy@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></B>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">And part of the problem is that most people truly have no idea how time 
<BR>consuming costuming is. They think they are asking for an afternoon's 
<BR>work, when it will take about a week</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#0000a0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>
<BR>Even "friends" have this mentality. &nbsp;I'm contemplating telling one certain friend, the next time she asks me to sew for free, "ok, the woodwork on the front of my house needs painting. &nbsp;If I am doing something for you, you should be doing something for me." &nbsp;This gal is constantly thinking of new garb she wants, for herself and her husband, and expects me to sew for free.
<BR>
<BR>Another thing I HATE is people asking me to alter garb. &nbsp;Please save me from those who receive worn-out, second-hand garb and want me to make it fit, or fix it!
<BR>
<BR>Katrin</B></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Unpaned trunkhose
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:54:54 -0800
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Can anyone point me to an an example of Elizabethan period trunkhose, middle
to upper class,  which do NOT have a paned overlay?  I don't mean Venetian
breeches, which are full around the waist and tapered to knee length, but
the full, puffy "shorts" which can be anywhere from crotch to just above the
knee length.  I've seen some paintings which might show plain gathered
trunkhose, but they're too indistinct for me to be sure.  

Margo


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>Another thing I HATE is people asking me to alter garb.  Please save me from 
>those who receive worn-out, second-hand garb and want me to make it fit, or 
>fix it!
>
Oh, God, mending!  It seems like every man who hears I sew wants to bring me
his jeans to patch.  I don't have time to sew what I want to sew, why on
earth would I spend it doing grunt work?  (She says, looking pointedly at
the jacket with broken zipper her husband has draped over the chair next to
the computer.  Take it to the dry cleaners that does repairs!)

Margo


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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:02:56 EST
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Janet Arnold POF pp 88-92 there are 3 pair there and more on pp 74-78 with 
patterns and line drawings.
Lady G
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:03:54 -0500
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Have you tried the nursing wear catalogs?  Most of them go pretty high.  I
am in my second trimester and wear a 40F and have gotten them from
motherwear.com   You can also try elizabethlee.com.  They mainly carry
patterns for nursing clothing, but also have bras.
Andrea

> Hello all,
> I have a friend that wanted to know if I can find a source for her
> daughter-in-law.  She is pregnant and has a bra size of 36H, and is
> having no luck in finding bras in that size.  Any ideas of any online
> companies that might go that high in cup size?  I really do not want to
> sew bras for her if I can get around it.
> Thank you kindly
>
>   Ooh had our first snow of the season yesterday... its beautiful.
>
> Linda T
> www.seams-to-be.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:07:59 -0800
Status: RO

I should have been more specific, I'm looking for mid-Elizabethan, around
1680's.  The ones in Arnold are early 1600's.

Margo

At 02:02 PM 01/20/2002 EST, you wrote:
>Janet Arnold POF pp 88-92 there are 3 pair there and more on pp 74-78 with 
>patterns and line drawings.
>Lady G
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>


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From: Margo@Margospatterns.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Unpaned trunkhose OOPS
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:08:32 -0800
Status: RO

That's 1580's, not 1680's. of course.

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:12:58 EST
Status: RO

Sometimes e-mail postings arrive in interesting combinations.
I got the "Large cup bras" posting from here and a spam subjected as "Golden 
Globes, who has them-who's getting them" at the same time. The juxtaposition 
was just tooo pat.
Lady G
on who's person nothing can be referred to as "golden" or "globular" SIGH!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:20:43 EST
Status: RO

Strictly Elizabethan England or would anywhere be okay? I think I've got a 
reference to them in the Low countries from that timeframe, but I'll have to 
dig thru a bit. Let me know.
Lady G
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 17:17:29 +0000
Status: RO

Sally Ann Chandler <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk> wrote
>Hello everyone,
>
>Does anyone in the UK know where I can get a second hand academic gown and 
>mortarboard - graduate gown please.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Sally Ann
>medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk

If it's for costume, try your nearest G&S society - they might have them
from Princess Ida

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 20 14:16:56 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Money For Sewing
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:51:09 -0700
Status: RO

I'd love to share a few VERY hard-won tips on the quandry of sewing for 
others:

1: You are not a bad, evil, or selfish person if you just say, politely, No.

2: You do not owe anyone a reason why not.  If they press for a reason, the 
best response is, "I'm not able to at this time."

3: It is perfectly okay to tell people what you do NOT do: "You want me to 
adjust that 70's suit into a medieval monks robes?  Oh, you'll want to find 
a specialist.  I don't do alterations."

4: You are not a bad person if you just say NO.

5: Those who butter you up with the "gifts of God" schtick are wanting 
things for free.  Those who truly need your services will voluteer barter, 
payments, and other recompense.

6: It is perfectly okay to stipulate the terms of a project exhange (ie: you 
paint my woodwork, and I'll work you project in over the next X months.)

It's always easy for other people to develop new projects for us.  It's our 
own responsibility to say Yea or Nay.  Nay is a good word. ;-)

Regards,
Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com


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I watched part of this movie Saturday the 19th.  During the dance scene I 
noticed the dance cards on the ladies wrists.  Would the Queen really have 
used one?  I was wondering about that.
Thanks,
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I watched part of this movie Saturday the 19th. &nbsp;During the dance scene I noticed the dance cards on the ladies wrists. &nbsp;Would the Queen really have used one? &nbsp;I was wondering about that.
<BR>Thanks,
<BR>Kelly
<BR>m311@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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       That was very well said.  I love the first rule.  That is the hardest 
one for me.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;That was very well said. &nbsp;I love the first rule. &nbsp;That is the hardest one for me.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] kid skin for gloves
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:36:07 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Does anyone know of a source for real kid (young goat, not child) for
glovemaking?  And can anyone tell me how much I'd need, maximum, for a
pair of gloves for unknown hands?

The kid is being purchased, assuming I can find a source, as a prize for
an SCA glovemaking competition.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin for gloves
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:49:18 -0600
Status: RO

There are several sources, most are in Canada as those from India and the
middle east in general have a shipping ban on this right now.

I understand that the Leather Factory has finally listened to my repeated
pleas for them to carry it and are now carrying it. :)

A personal source for Etrofino leather (the finest kid you will ever find)
that is in Dallas that has a connection with the Canadian leather place is
our Local Equestrian guru. You can email her directly as I think she
currently has three skins for sale. llechatton@hotmail.com, her name is Lisa
LeChatton. She can get more but you all will have to discuss that with her
personally. :)

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤

----- Original Message -----
From: "Emma Elizabeth Lehman" <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 2:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] kid skin for gloves


>
> Does anyone know of a source for real kid (young goat, not child) for
> glovemaking?  And can anyone tell me how much I'd need, maximum, for a
> pair of gloves for unknown hands?
>
> The kid is being purchased, assuming I can find a source, as a prize for
> an SCA glovemaking competition.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 20 15:59:28 2002
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: figgy pudding
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:32:58 -0000
Status: RO

Just been lurking for a few days, and spotted a subject I actually know a little 
bit about.

Figgy Pudding. The "original": in Forme of Cury.

http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/foc/FoC086small.html

Scroll down to the bottom of the page, and there it is. Bears very little 
resemblance to the more modern Christmas pudding, but may well be what's 
referred to in the carol.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 20 18:49:57 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: figgy pudding
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 16:11:45 -0800
Status: RO

Cindy Renfrow has redacted the recipe for figgy pudding--among many others-- in
"Take A Thousand Eggs or More".  If you're interested in period cookery, this is
an absolutel must!  (See http://www.thousandeggs.com/ to get it from the author
directly.)


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jane Williams
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 1:33 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: figgy pudding
>
>
> Just been lurking for a few days, and spotted a subject I actually
> know a little
> bit about.
>
> Figgy Pudding. The "original": in Forme of Cury.
>
> http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/foc/FoC086small.html
>
> Scroll down to the bottom of the page, and there it is. Bears very little
> resemblance to the more modern Christmas pudding, but may well be what's
> referred to in the carol.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 20 19:02:04 2002
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 18:45:07 -0600
Status: RO

Well,

No one of y'all that attended 12th night in Chicago yesterday took the time 
to say hi...  Somewhat disappointing...  I don't bite...

<shrug>



Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Large cup bras online?
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 19:49:56 -0500
Status: RO

Try Lady Grace Bras, http://www.ladygrace.com/ . They have a couple of
Nursing Bras in that size range.
Dinah Tackett

----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Thompson" <lindastb@home.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 1:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Large cup bras online?


> Hello all,
> I have a friend that wanted to know if I can find a source for her
> daughter-in-law.  She is pregnant and has a bra size of 36H, and is
> having no luck in finding bras in that size.  Any ideas of any online
> companies that might go that high in cup size?  I really do not want to
> sew bras for her if I can get around it.
> Thank you kindly
>
>   Ooh had our first snow of the season yesterday... its beautiful.
>
> Linda T
> www.seams-to-be.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: figgy pudding, British food
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 19:50:54 EST
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In a message dated 1/20/02 1:11:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, LalahTT@aol.com 
writes:


> Sounds a lot like the plum pudding my family always has for Christmas.  But 
> ours isn't cooked in a mold.  It is packed into cheese cloth and suspended 
> in a steamer and steamed for hours.  It ends up being pretty much of a 
> round shape and is wonderful with a hard sauce made with confectioners 
> sugar, butter and rum.   
> 

Steamed puddings can be cooked in a mold or wrapped in fabric.  Special 
pudding molds have lids, or you can improvise one with a can and foil for a 
lid.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 1/20/02 1:11:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, LalahTT@aol.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Sounds a lot like the plum pudding my family always has for Christmas.&nbsp; But ours isn't cooked in a mold.&nbsp; It is packed into cheese cloth and suspended in a steamer and steamed for hours.&nbsp; It ends up being pretty much of a round shape and is wonderful with a hard sauce made with confectioners sugar, butter and rum.&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
Steamed puddings can be cooked in a mold or wrapped in fabric.&nbsp; Special pudding molds have lids, or you can improvise one with a can and foil for a lid.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] sillly corset tale
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 16:58:16 -0800
Status: RO


They were my 11th thru 15th corsets. We designed the patterns right on the
wearers. IMHO, the only way to do it. After you've done a few others, first!
OK, we looked at a few real ones in museums & in vintage clothing dealer
collections and a field trip to some vintage clothing dealers show in SF
(where the bride lived). Maybe even looked at Norah Waugh's book.
--cin
> LOL!  What pattern did you use for the corsets?
> 
> -- Mara
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 17:19:34 -0800
Status: RO


Wow, lot of variables. Do you know what kind of silk it was?  The biggest
differences will be whether it was from wild or cultivated worms, whether it
was processed, and what kind of finishing.  Any ideas?  You'll need to have
a guess or 2 at any chemicals added to the wool, too.  Lots fo variables.
Sounds like it might be hard to repeat the experiment without vast amounts
of detail.

How fun!
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo having a chem lab flashback

> Yes -- on the heavy side of suiting fabric, like a tweed but 
> in silk, if you can imagine that.
> 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:44:19 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 20 Jan 2002, Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> Wow, lot of variables. Do you know what kind of silk it was?  The biggest
> differences will be whether it was from wild or cultivated worms, whether it
> was processed, and what kind of finishing.  Any ideas?  You'll need to have
> a guess or 2 at any chemicals added to the wool, too.  Lots fo variables.
> Sounds like it might be hard to repeat the experiment without vast amounts
> of detail.

No clue on the silk -- "designer remainder" is all the outlet is told, and
they're lucky when they get a fiber content. It has a slight raw feel to
it, but not many slubs. Beyond that, anyone's guess. The wool was men's
suiting worsted, high-quality stuff, that had some finishing chemical on
it that I hoped I'd eliminated by washing on hot before the dyeing
process.

I'll be dyeing the other silk eventually, without wool in the washer, and
probably a different color. Even if it doesn't "full," I'll be happy with
it, because it's good fabric and takes dye well. But I'd love to know how
to replicate that fulling effect!

--Robin

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] barter for costumes
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 17:35:16 -0800
Status: RO

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------_=_NextPart_001_01C1A21B.E0C8D780
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Do it.  I  do this all the time.  "A hour for an hour" is my motto.  I will
not accept money as the IRS would suddenly decide that my tax deductible
costumes & related tools are no longer deductible. (section 501c of the tax
code.  Generally says that volunteers at musuems, and other non-profits may
deduct any uncompensated uniforms, classes, tools, travel, etc.)  The IRS
has not figured out how to tax barter.  Thus I have traded a houppeland that
you just saw for a year of cat-sitting, a pourpoint for some graphics source
code, a Victorian evening gown for days & days of yardwork, an ensemble for
a catered dinner party and many other deals.

--cin in Tokyo

I'm contemplating telling one certain friend, the next time she asks me to
sew for free, "ok, the woodwork on the front of my house needs painting.  If
I am doing something for you, you should be doing something for me."  This
gal is constantly thinking of new garb she wants, for herself and her
husband, and expects me to sew for free. 



------_=_NextPart_001_01C1A21B.E0C8D780
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">


<META content="MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=880532201-21012002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Do 
it.&nbsp; I&nbsp; do this all the time.&nbsp; "A hour for an hour" is my 
motto.&nbsp; I will not accept money as the IRS would suddenly decide that my 
tax deductible costumes &amp; related tools&nbsp;are no longer 
deductible.&nbsp;(section 501c of the tax code.&nbsp; Generally says that 
volunteers at musuems, and other non-profits may deduct any&nbsp;uncompensated 
uniforms, classes, tools, travel, etc.)&nbsp; The IRS has not figured out how to 
tax barter.&nbsp; Thus I have traded a houppeland that you just saw for a year 
of cat-sitting, a pourpoint for some graphics source code, a Victorian evening 
gown for days &amp; days of yardwork, an ensemble for a catered dinner 
party&nbsp;and many other deals.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial size=2>--cin</FONT>&nbsp;<SPAN 
class=880532201-21012002><FONT face=Arial size=2>in Tokyo</FONT></SPAN><BR><FONT 
face=arial,helvetica><FONT lang=0 face="Comic Sans MS" size=2 
FAMILY="SCRIPT"><B><BR>I'm contemplating telling one certain friend, the next 
time she asks me to sew for free, "ok, the woodwork on the front of my house 
needs painting. &nbsp;If I am doing something for you, you should be doing 
something for me." &nbsp;This gal is constantly thinking of new garb she wants, 
for herself and her husband, and expects me to sew for free. 
<BR></B></FONT></FONT></P></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disapointment :-(
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 19:48:17 -0600
Status: RO

I beg to differ. I introduced myself to you while in the Feast Hall early
in the afternoon and then spoke to you in the Pub during dinner. I was
the one who offered to pay for you to dance on the table. You simply
failed to notice that I was me!


Karen


On Sun, 20 Jan 2002 18:45:07 -0600 Gorgeous Muiredach
<muiredach@bmee.net> writes:
> Well,
> 
> No one of y'all that attended 12th night in Chicago yesterday took 
> the time 
> to say hi...  Somewhat disappointing...  I don't bite...
> 
> <shrug>
> 
> 
> 
> Gorgeous Muiredach
> Rokkehealden Shire
> Middle Kingdom
> aka
> Nicolas Steenhout
> "You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 20 20:13:56 2002
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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:43:05 -0500
Status: RO

Ah... well, I was going to say that if you were doing later-period stuff,
it's enough to make a lovely woman's jacket.  Who knows... obviously the
fabric isn't ripe yet and needs to age a bit more before it reveals its
true purpose ;D

-- Mara

>Oh, I misspoke -- I have even less of it than I thought. Only 2 3/4 yards.
>I think I know what I might do with it, but it's not a top priority
>project, so I'll wait a while. What it really wants to be is a man's short
>cotehardie or pourpoint -- strong, lots of integriety, but really
>luxurious. But I have no need to make men's clothing at this point, and no
>friends with such need, and I wouldn't waste it on a stranger.
>
>--Robin


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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] decorative hair combs?
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 18:08:47 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


I'm ideally looking for horn, cellulose or bone combs.  I know where to
find metal and plastic ones.  Failing that, does anyone have a source
for _undecorated_ french twist combs (the big ones).  I could always
decorate my own, but I'd rather put the effort in on something that
will last longer than an acrylic or lucite comb that will snap if
it comes into contact with anything that contains alcohol (like
hairspray).  My hair is _almost_ long enough to start putting up
again all the time.  Probably by morris season, I'll need to put
it up, to keep my hair out of my mouth and embrochure. [grin]  It's
just about long enough to start reminding me why I kept it short the
last couple years, but I miss my braids and fancy hairtoys.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Gorgeous Muiredach <muiredach@bmee.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disapointment :-(
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:06:59 -0600
Status: RO

At 07:48 PM 1/20/2002, you wrote:
>I beg to differ. I introduced myself to you while in the Feast Hall early
>in the afternoon and then spoke to you in the Pub during dinner. I was
>the one who offered to pay for you to dance on the table. You simply
>failed to notice that I was me!

Oh!  A thousand apologies...  I sit corrected...  I should have mentionned 
I'm the kind of guy that needs to have it spelled out...  :-/  I didn't 
catch you say you were on the list, and you weren't wearing a BIG RED H...

And I did nearly climb on that table to dance...

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:59:23 -0500
Status: RO

At 12:20 PM 01/20/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>(snip) Many of
>us on this list sew, not because we love sewing, but because we want
>costumes and can't afford to have other people make them for us.
>
>Just keeping the peace --
>
>Gail Finke

Speaking for myself, I'm one of those dreadful people who goes to events,
looks at the clothes the vendors are selling, then goes home and makes them
myself because I can't bear to pay the prices being asked... but then, I
can't bear to charge what my labor is worth either because I can't imagine
paying those prices myself.  So I guess I get the raw end of the deal both
ways :D  Which is why I sew for friends only, and on a barter basis.  For
example, the price of a jacket I recently made for a friend was a copy of
Waugh's _Cut of Men's Clothes_, a handwoven blanket, and a pair of period
shoes.  Why is it that I can quantify my labor's worth in goods, but not
money?  I dunno.  Seems more fair to me, somehow, yet I know that if I
added up the price of all of those things and asked for the money instead,
I'd get it.  Maybe I just don't like charging my friends money, yet working
a trade in objects is more acceptable. 

Anyway, Gail, I don't think anyone is trying to start a fight.  Costumers
have a right to complain about customers who _can_ afford to pay them well
but don't, because they don't understand the value of the labor involved.
And the rest of us who are too poor and/or cheap to pay those prices --
have learned to sew or barter to get what we want.  As you said.  <g>

Cheers,
Mara

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 20 20:58:58 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:33:40 -0500
Status: RO

At 1/19/2002 11:56 PM, you wrote:
>*sigh*....I think I've got a roaring good case of silk envy.....It
>sounds absolutely yummy.....
>--Sue (going back to combing through her fabric stashes to get rid of
>all of the Fabric Unsuitable and Inauthentic for Pre-17th Century Use
>[and blaming it all on Robin] <g>)

Well, if you *really* can't find a use -- send it to me...

In my mundane world I'm a scrap quilter. I have made quilts out of 
everything from leather, fiberglass, acetate, rayon and even double knit 
sweater material.

Don't ask -- somehow I got suckered into one of those "Bet you can't" 
situations.

Katheryne

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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:41:45 -0500
Status: RO

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
That dance was before she was Queen, wasn't it?
<br>Lisa
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>I watched
part of this movie Saturday the 19th.&nbsp; During the dance scene I noticed
the dance cards on the ladies wrists.&nbsp; Would the Queen really have
used one?&nbsp; I was wondering about that.</font></font></blockquote>
</html>

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:46:06 -0500
Status: RO

At 01:47 PM 01/20/2002 -0500, you wrote: 
>
> Even "friends" have this mentality.  I'm contemplating telling one certain
> friend, the next time she asks me to sew for free, "ok, the woodwork on the
> front of my house needs painting.  If I am doing something for you, you
> should be doing something for me."  This gal is constantly thinking of new
> garb she wants, for herself and her husband, and expects me to sew for
free. 


Sounds like a good plan!  Except that she ought also to be doing your dishes,
weeding the garden, doing laundry, cooking dinner... all the stuff that needs
doing around your house all the while you're plying your needle for her.  Fair
exchange of labor, right?

>
> Another thing I HATE is people asking me to alter garb.  Please save me from
> those who receive worn-out, second-hand garb and want me to make it fit, or
> fix it! 
>
> Katrin 


Oh, yes, that's a nightmare.  A friend wanted me to see if a coat that someone
made for him, years back, could be saved. It's early 18th c., but the damned
thing doesn't have any buckram or interfacing in the front, so it hangs
badly. 
I told him we could cut it down to make a jacket... but unstitching the thing
and inserting the proper materials would be a nightmare and not worth the time
or money.  I'm just sad that he paid good money, to a professional seamstress
(an 18th c. sutler, I don't know which one) to have it made, and she didn't do
a proper job. 

Speaking of mending, I've been home sick since Wednesday with the flu.  Am
mostly better now, but spent the past four days in bed, reading and doing
mending, because I was too cranky and restless to sleep.  I intended to spend
the long weekend getting to some of my own long-delayed costume projects, but,
nope, haven't had the energy.  At least I've knocked some of the little stuff
off the list, like darning a sock and hemming a skirt etc., so they won't be
there nagging at me!  Forgive the crow over small accomplishments.  I've just
been so sick and irritable that I need to feel good about something.  And I
highly recommed Laurel Ulrich Thatcher's new book, "The Age of Homespun" --
she's the woman who wrote "The Midwife's Tale".  Very readable, enjoyable and
informative.

-- Mara 

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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:10:28 -0500
Status: RO


> > Another thing I HATE is people asking me to alter garb.  Please save me 
> from those who receive worn-out, second-hand garb and want me to make it 
> fit, or fix it!
> >
> > Katrin

Katrin,

I still remember the "barter" I did for a seamstress friend of mine.

I cut out many of the simple items she was making [chemises, pants, shirts] 
and put the pieces into labeled bags for her.
Then she helped me step by step to make my first dress. I did the work and 
she did the brain work.  [now sew the sleeve into the arm hole, -- done -- 
now do the hem, etc]
I also did a little serging, and other simple stuff for her to pay for the 
help & encouragement she gave me.

This way both of us felt like we got something out of the exchange and no 
one was out any money/ time/ effort.

Katheryne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:59:04 -0700
Status: RO

Oh, I can find a use for it, alright (sorry about not contributing to
your interesting-sounding quilts, though <g>...they sound almost like
collages). I've just made the decision (sort of a process rather than
one single moment, and it's been "coming" for about a year now) to be
more authentic in what I wear--kinda the next level up, I guess.  I have
a lot of fabric in my stash that's periodoid, rather than period, if you
know what I mean.  Nice stuff, all of it, but it's cotton twills,
corduroys, etc. I want to concentrate on making clothing for my SCA
stuff that's made of linens and wools, and silk when appropriate.  And
use appropriate trimmings and embroidery, instead of going for
medievaloid.  I make pretty good stuff as it is, but being on-line the
last couple of years, and discovering things like Ben's classes in
Anglo-Saxon clothing, and Drea's website, and Marc Carlson's marvelous
stuff, and taking that workshop from Robin last summer, has given me a
greater appreciation of just how nice it would be, to be authentic from
top-to-toe.  I'm even sewing things by hand <g>...quite an
accomplishment for me, as I really *hate* plain-sewing by hand (although
I love embroidery, so go figure <ggg>).
The fabrics and trims I cull out will, most likely, be used to make
nice, washable tunics and gowns for our "gold key" (clothing for
newcomers and visitors, for the non-SCA folks out there).  And of course
I'm keeping my pink wool and linen, so that someday I can make that pink
and orange outfit Teddy challenged me to do last year (still looking for
orange wool of a weight good for a houpelande or surcoat, as the pink
will be a fully lined Gothic Fitted Gown (tm).
--Sue

Purple Kat wrote:
> 
> At 1/19/2002 11:56 PM, you wrote:
> >*sigh*....I think I've got a roaring good case of silk envy.....It
> >sounds absolutely yummy.....
> >--Sue (going back to combing through her fabric stashes to get rid of
> >all of the Fabric Unsuitable and Inauthentic for Pre-17th Century Use
> >[and blaming it all on Robin] <g>)
> 
> Well, if you *really* can't find a use -- send it to me...
> 
> In my mundane world I'm a scrap quilter. I have made quilts out of
> everything from leather, fiberglass, acetate, rayon and even double knit
> sweater material.
> 
> Don't ask -- somehow I got suckered into one of those "Bet you can't"
> situations.
> 
> Katheryne
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:56:47 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 1/20/2002 7:11:15 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
purplkat@optonline.net writes:

<< This way both of us felt like we got something out of the exchange and no 
 one was out any money/ time/ effort.
 
 Katheryne
  >>
I have helped friends in a similar manner. However, this one particular 
person is not willing to learn to sew.  She apparently sees it as no 
sacrifice or gift of my time and effort, if I come home from work and spend 
the evening sewing for her.  I think she has other isssues...

Katrin
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:01:49 -0700
Status: RO

Well, heck....I sure woulda said "hi" if I'd been there....I'm just a
looong way from Chicago at the moment <g>.
--Maire/Sue, who thinks she should check with a *certain lady* about the
biting thing ;-)

Gorgeous Muiredach wrote:
> 
> Well,
> 
> No one of y'all that attended 12th night in Chicago yesterday took the time
> to say hi...  Somewhat disappointing...  I don't bite...
> 
> <shrug>
> 
> Gorgeous Muiredach
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 23:31:04 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 1/20/02 10:00:41 PM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> That dance was before she was Queen, wasn't it? 
> 

No I believe it was after.  It was when Albert was there to see her again 
after all those years.  They kept saying she was queen.  I only saw bits and 
pieces but I think I have this right.
Sometime I will have to watch the whole thing.
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/20/02 10:00:41 PM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">That dance was before she was Queen, wasn't it? 
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>No I believe it was after. &nbsp;It was when Albert was there to see her again after all those years. &nbsp;They kept saying she was queen. &nbsp;I only saw bits and pieces but I think I have this right.
<BR>Sometime I will have to watch the whole thing.
<BR>Kelly
<BR>m311@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 20 23:20:58 2002
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 23:02:02 -0600
Status: RO

At 10:01 PM 1/20/2002, you wrote:
>Well, heck....I sure woulda said "hi" if I'd been there....I'm just a
>looong way from Chicago at the moment <g>.

Well Maire dearest, I did say for *those who were there*...

>--Maire/Sue, who thinks she should check with a *certain lady* about the
>biting thing ;-)

Don't listen to what she has to say about my biting...  It's all lies 
:-)  Besides... She asked for it...


Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 21 00:56:00 2002
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From: Margo@Margospatterns.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:28:27 -0800
Status: RO

I suspect the "fulling" might be due to the herringbone weave rather than
the fiber.  I had some herringbone rayon suiting, and when I washed it I got
a thick, spongy fabric with no visible herringbone.

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 21 01:02:51 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 01:52:16 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 20 Jan 2002 Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:

> I suspect the "fulling" might be due to the herringbone weave rather than
> the fiber.  I had some herringbone rayon suiting, and when I washed it I got
> a thick, spongy fabric with no visible herringbone.

Yes, that's what happened here ... but I can't figure out what herringbone
would have to do with it. Herringbone is essentially twill, isn't it, save
that the direction of the diagonals changes at intervals?

--Robin


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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:41:38 +0000
Status: RO

This style of effigy (leaning on one elbow) seems to have been a fashion at the time. There's one illustrated in the Cunnington 17th century book (possibly the Exeter one? - book not to hand). When I saw a similar effigy in Ludlow parish church (Shropshire), I thought "oh, it's the one in the book" but it isn't, she's on the other elbow! I think there's also one in St. Albans Abbey.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:04:32 +0000
Status: RO

Kelly wrote:
>Back to London.  All of our breakfasts were ate at the B&B.  Now at this one 
>in London she only put out jam, milk, oj, bread, cold cereal and a toaster.  
>We had to fix it ourselves.  I have no idea what hot breakfast foods would be 
>like.  

Most B&Bs serve either a standard "fry-up" (bacon and  egg plus sausage, baked beans and/or tomato, mushrooms...) or a choice of some of the above or boiled or scrambled eggs, or sometimes even kippers (smoked fish). Personally I never eat a cooked breakfast at home, so what you got would suit me as long as the price reflected the lack of hot food!
By "the T-square" do you mean Trafalgar Square?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 05:20:33 -0600
Status: RO

Well, I'm a quilter too, and i'm asking! Seriously would love to see pics.
I'm in the middle of making 20 premature-baby-size quilts for charity right
now as payment for an online auction I won through one of my lists!

Dianne
. I have made quilts out of
> everything from leather, fiberglass, acetate, rayon and even double knit
> sweater material.
>
> Don't ask -- somehow I got suckered into one of those "Bet you can't"
> situations.
>
> Katheryne
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: figgy pudding, British food
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:37:00 +0000
Status: RO

"Pudding" originally meant something, usually savoury, cooked in a skin like a giant sausage (as "black pudding" still does). Later the definition stretched to mean something boiled in a cloth, or other cooked thickened mixtures (Yorkshire pudding is made of pancake-type batter). Nowadays sweet puddings are usually steamed or baked, and, as Gail says, "pudding" is often used loosely for the sweet course.
Christmas pudding was originally boiled ina cloth, later boiled or steamed in a basin, but not a fancy mould, if that's what a Bundt pan is. They can be any size, but a little goes a long way, especially after Christmas dinner!


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> gailscott@eos.net 01/20/02 05:35pm >>>

My next-door neighbor used to make a Christmas pudding from a family recipe
that came from England (where -- I believe -- pudding is a word that means
"dessert" and not the custardy-thing we use it for). It was a very dense and
wet kind of cake full of fruit and soaked in rum, with an extremely strong
flavor. It was small, about 6 or 7 inches in circumference, molded to a
shape (I think it was made in a mini Bundt pan), and you ate it by slices
about 1/4 of an inch thick.

I don't know if that's a "figgy pudding" but it was definitely a "pudding."
I think it was the kind that can be set on fire for effect, but they gave us
hunks and didn't do any pyrotechnics.

I have been to England 3 times and I had very good food there each time,
even in London. The London B&Bs I went to generally had cold breakfasts
(hey, there's always Weetabix!), but outside of London we always had "full
English breakfast" which mystified me by usually including tomatoes. We do
not eat tomatoes in the US at breakfast, at least in the East and MidWest.
(One of my trips was a summer school trip, where we stayed at Trinity
College, Oxford, and ate at their Hall -- we had tomatoes every meal.) We
had wonderful sandwiches from street vendors in London, lots of good Indian
food, good meals at pubs and restaurants, great fish and chips, and great
sandwiches and pasties from bakeries.

If you are going to England, try all sorts of places. Ask for
recommendations from your hotel, B&B, or the tourist bureau. If you are on a
budget, stay at B&Bs and have lunch at bakeries. That will give you two
cheap meals, anyway.

Gail Finke



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 06:01:56 -0600
Status: RO


Seems more fair to me, somehow, yet I know that if I
> added up the price of all of those things and asked for the money instead,
> I'd get it.  Maybe I just don't like charging my friends money, yet
working
> a trade in objects is more acceptable.

Mara, I feel like a trade is more acceptable to me because it IS easier to
quantify. Not everyone makes the same amount of money, but everyone is given
the same number of hours in a day. As for me, a trade would be more
acceptable because cash would invariably wind up being spent on something
other than what I had planned!

Dianne

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:59:32 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


Kathy,

A mustang? That's quite a responsibility!  How did you decide to become
horsey folk?  Best of luck with your horse and new direction. 

How are you and Sagan doing, by the way?

Thanks,

Drea


> I just thought I would say Goodbye to my friends on h-costume
> before unsubscribing.
> 
> I am following a new path in my life and at this time costume
> and fabric don't have anything to do with it.  Notice I said at this
> time.
> 
> We are now the proud owners of a six year old Spanish Mustang, named
> Napoleon.  He is not broke to ride and was abandoned by the people
> who adopted him from the BLM.  So we have our work cut out for
> us.  But it is so rewarding!  I just can't explain the feelings of joy
> that
> comes with a connection to a horse.  It's amazing.  Every time I am with
> him, no matter how much labor it is, I feel as if I have just had a
> vacation.
> All you equestrians out there know what I am talking about.
> 
> So after another year or so I may be back for advice on costuming for
> the Cowboy Mounted Shooting garb I will need.  Yes, galloping around
> a course, six guns blazing, all done up in period tack and clothing.  I
> can't
> wait!!!!!!
> 
> Bye for now,
> 
> Kathy Hopkins
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:01:58 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


Oops--that was private.  Obviously.  :)

Suffering from severe monday-itis,

Drea

On Fri, 18 Jan 2002, Kathy M Hopkins wrote:

> Greetings,
> 
> I just thought I would say Goodbye to my friends on h-costume
> before unsubscribing.
> 
> I am following a new path in my life and at this time costume
> and fabric don't have anything to do with it.  Notice I said at this
> time.
> 
> We are now the proud owners of a six year old Spanish Mustang, named
> Napoleon.  He is not broke to ride and was abandoned by the people
> who adopted him from the BLM.  So we have our work cut out for
> us.  But it is so rewarding!  I just can't explain the feelings of joy
> that
> comes with a connection to a horse.  It's amazing.  Every time I am with
> him, no matter how much labor it is, I feel as if I have just had a
> vacation.
> All you equestrians out there know what I am talking about.
> 
> So after another year or so I may be back for advice on costuming for
> the Cowboy Mounted Shooting garb I will need.  Yes, galloping around
> a course, six guns blazing, all done up in period tack and clothing.  I
> can't
> wait!!!!!!
> 
> Bye for now,
> 
> Kathy Hopkins
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 08:13:11 -0700
Status: RO

Baked beans? For breakfast? How completely _weird_ <ggg>
--Sue, refraining from saying "eeeuuuuuw"...... (although the tomatoes
and mushrooms sound nummy ;-)

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> 
> Kelly wrote:
> >Back to London.  All of our breakfasts were ate at the B&B.  Now at this one
> >in London she only put out jam, milk, oj, bread, cold cereal and a toaster.
> >We had to fix it ourselves.  I have no idea what hot breakfast foods would be
> >like.
> 
> Most B&Bs serve either a standard "fry-up" (bacon and  egg plus sausage, baked beans and/or tomato, mushrooms...) or a choice of some of the above or boiled or scrambled eggs, or sometimes even kippers (smoked fish). Personally I never eat a cooked breakfast at home, so what you got would suit me as long as the price reflected the lack of hot food!
> By "the T-square" do you mean Trafalgar Square?
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]OT British (Southern take on food)
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:00:28 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 21/1/02 9:10:39 AM, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:
<< Baked beans? For breakfast? How completely _weird_ <ggg>
--Sue, refraining from saying "eeeuuuuuw"...... (although the tomatoes
and mushrooms sound nummy ;- >>

I'll say it "euuuuw" {grin} BUT I'd rather have baked beans for breakfast 
than grits <major EUUUUUUUUWWWWWW> and some of the other things we 
Southerners put on our plates and like. Figgy pudding, bubble and squeek, 
bangers and mash etc all sound marvy compared to a dinner of turnip greens, 
pot likker, souse (now there's an euwwww for ya), brains and eggs, liver and 
lights, hogs head, hand slung chitterlings (now there's a mental picture), 
fried pork rinds and a myriad of other things that regularly turn up on the 
average Southerners menu. My mother's favorite food is fried chicken feet 
[shudder, don't go there, just DON'T, it's safer).
Lady G
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:18:57 -0800
Status: RO



> Another thing I HATE is people asking me to alter garb.  Please save me from those who receive worn-out, second-hand
> garb and want me to make it fit, or fix it! 
> 
> Katrin

I have a very firm rule when it comes to alterations, I only do
alterations for people I am sleeping with.

Spent far too much time doing alterations on stock costume to do is just
for the fun of it!

Stephen
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 21 12:14:32 2002
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From: Margo@Margospatterns.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:47:03 -0800
Status: RO

Stephen wrote:

>I have a very firm rule when it comes to alterations, I only do
>alterations for people I am sleeping with.
>
Knowing that you're happily married, Stephen,  I can't help but wonder if
stating this policy has resulted in any awkward offers......

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:57:09 -0500
Status: RO

Basically, yes, Instead of warping 1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4... you warp 
1,2,3,4,3,2,1,2,3,4 or some variation of that. That's actually a point 
twill, herringbone sometimes has another shift in there. (I haven't 
woven for a while, so I'm a little vague, here.) But it does affect 
structure - you can end up with longer floats.  I'd never thought about 
it, but I suppose they could full more closely. I've never woven it in 
wool, always cotton, which shrank down to be nice and thick and durable, 
but washing made the pattern more, not less, obvious.

Anne

Robin Netherton wrote:

>On Sun, 20 Jan 2002 Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:
>
>>I suspect the "fulling" might be due to the herringbone weave rather than
>>the fiber.  I had some herringbone rayon suiting, and when I washed it I got
>>a thick, spongy fabric with no visible herringbone.
>>
>
>Yes, that's what happened here ... but I can't figure out what herringbone
>would have to do with it. Herringbone is essentially twill, isn't it, save
>that the direction of the diagonals changes at intervals?
>
>--Robin
>
>


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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: figgy pudding
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:14:06 +0000
Status: RO

Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> wrote
>Just been lurking for a few days, and spotted a subject I actually know a little 
>bit about.
>
>Figgy Pudding. The "original": in Forme of Cury.
>
>http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/foc/FoC086small.html
>
>Scroll down to the bottom of the page, and there it is. Bears very little 
>resemblance to the more modern Christmas pudding, but may well be what's 
>referred to in the carol.
>
It actually tastes amazingly like modern Christmas pudding - rich and
fruity and alcoholic.  It's very heavy - eat with almost equal volumes
of whipped cream.
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:22:55 +0000
Status: RO

If you travel up through Britain, you will find the standard cooked
breakfast changes as you go.  Bacon, sausage and some sort of egg are
basic.  Beans, mushrooms, tomato, black pudding, fried bread, hash
browns come and go.  Once you get to Scotland you will be offered
haggis, potato scone and Lorne sausage (square slices of sausagemeat)
too.

Jean

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
>Baked beans? For breakfast? How completely _weird_ <ggg>
>--Sue, refraining from saying "eeeuuuuuw"...... (although the tomatoes
>and mushrooms sound nummy ;-)
>
>Kate M Bunting wrote:
>> 
>> Kelly wrote:
>> >Back to London.  All of our breakfasts were ate at the B&B.  Now at this one
>> >in London she only put out jam, milk, oj, bread, cold cereal and a toaster.
>> >We had to fix it ourselves.  I have no idea what hot breakfast foods would be
>> >like.
>> 
>> Most B&Bs serve either a standard "fry-up" (bacon and  egg plus sausage, baked 
>beans and/or tomato, mushrooms...) or a choice of some of the above or boiled or 
>scrambled eggs, or sometimes even kippers (smoked fish). Personally I never eat 
>a cooked breakfast at home, so what you got would suit me as long as the price 
>reflected the lack of hot food!
>> By "the T-square" do you mean Trafalgar Square?
>> 
>> Kate Bunting
>> Library, University of Derby
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] dye (was fulled silk)
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:30:09 EST
Status: RO


DYE TIPS:

Just to offer some experience here, I've used RIT dyes for years.  Nothin' 
wrong with that.  Done right, you can get lovely even color on most types of 
fabric -- even those that supposedly don't dye well.  Reading the fine print 
in the directions is a must.  For light colors, you need 1 box per every 3 
yards of fabric.  For medium to dark colors, or brights, use 2 boxes per 3 
yds.  I wash my fabric in the washer on hot first, with "All Free & Clear."  
(I like to serge the 2 cut edges first, cuz ya lose less yardage to 
ravelling.)  Then, I fill my stainless steel kitchen sink with scalding 
tapwater.  (If your tap doesn't get hot enough, you could add a pot of boiled 
water from the stove.)  I add the RIT, a cup of salt, and however much 
detergent it says in the directions -- a tablespoon, I think.  Mix until 
dissolved.  Add the fabric and stir wearing latex gloves and/or a steel 
serving utensil.  You'll want to lift it out by the fabric edge and re-insert 
a few times, to ensure even dying that you can't get from a washing machine 
(cuz it twists up).  40 minutes works for most fabrics.  Keep agitating the 
whole time.  When done, let water drain out and fill again  with warm water 
to rinse excess dye.  Agitate, then drain sink.  Repeat process at least 3 
times in progressively cooler water.  Keep rinsing until cold water comes out 
clear.

Testing with a swatch is, of course a good idea, but not always practical 
with this method.  You have to add the fabric while the water is hot, after 
all.  But if you were dyeing something else, and wanted to add your swatch to 
see what another fabric would look like in the same dye, you could do that.  
Brocades done this way can sometimes comes out 2-tone, as the non-shiny 
pattern may not take the dye at all, or to a lesser degree.  This can be 
stunning, so long as  you didn't hate the original color.

Hope this helps!
Gillian, who cannot go outside for at least another week due to pneumonia and 
is freaking out cuz it means missing the sale at the fabric store!
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Re: [YeMerrieGreenwoodList] Knitting Patterns
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:49:31 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

If anyone can help this person, please do so by 
replying directly to her as she is (obviously) not on 
this list.  She gave permission for me to forward her 
request here.

Thank you.

Brenna

>    Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 07:16:43 -0000
>    From: "jadetenshi" <hotaru613@aol.com>
> Subject: period knitting patterns
>
> To the knitters of the group or anyone who would know 
about this...
>
> Does anyone know of any period knitting patterns I 
find, or what key
> words to look under, or what kind of knitted 
garment/item is
> acceptable at the time.  Anykind of advice for a 
beginner knitter for
> a renaissaunce faire member should know, need to 
know, or wants to
> know.
>
> -Lori Irwin
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: money for costumes + BUSINESS CARDS!
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:55:23 EST
Status: RO


Making money at sewing:

After having too many friends swamp me with projects for too little cash, I 
laid down the law.  I said, "I make $10 an hour sewing for strangers.  So 
every hour I do your [friends'] stuff for $1 an hr I lose $9, because I could 
have used that time to take on another custom order.  So, you can pay $10 an 
hr like the rest of them, or pay $7 plus barter we can agree on."

After 2 years of logging my hrs on projects -- just kept a journal listing 
daily start and stop times -- I can usually give an accurate estimate on the 
time needed for a project.  So, when I get a client inquiry, I tell them they 
must pay me $10/hr, for an estimated X # of hrs, plus materials cost of 
"blank".  They can accept or decline at that point.  The hardest part is 
resisting the temptation to offer to cut down the price when they waver.  But 
I've come to learn there are enough people willing to pay my price that I no 
longer have a part-time job on the side.  If one person says no, another will 
say yes.  But it does help to have a professional-looking business card.  Let 
me highly recommend:

vistaprint.com

You get 250 color business cards for "free" plus $5 shipping.  You design 
them from an easy online template, and I personally used the "address" lines 
to write in what kinds of things I make.  And no, I don't work for them.  
Just a very happy customer, who gets compliments on her cards all the time.  
If they only knew it costs 5 bucks!

Anyway, that's I how make my living.

--Gillian the seamstress
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] money for costumes
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:55:18 -0800
Status: RO

I'm probably being contrary to the good-feelings of this thread, but I hate
working for barter.  I find it much harder to compare my time/effort/materials
against someone elses. Five hours of sewing isn't the same kind of work as 5
hours of yard work, to my mind.  So, how much IS?  But the real trouble is, time
or not, I sew (or have sewn) for others mainly because I needed the money.  I
can't pay a bill with embroidery, or whatever trade is offered is something I
just don't need and wouldn't spend money to have someone do, no matter how nice
it would be to have.  And finally, several times I've made arrangements for a
trade, the other side of the trade never materialized, and that is hard on a
friendship, too.

What's difficult about this is charging by the hour, since people want to know
how much they're going to have to budget.  So I finally just sat down and worked
out a per-piece rate for various items of Elizabethan wear, and that's what I go
by.  Or went by.  In any case, my prices apparently were too high (although
really not quite as high as they probably should have been) since eventually
people stopped asking me.  Also, after a few years of production sewing every
Spring/Summer, I just got tired.  So I sew very seldom for anyone but myself and
my husband, and discourage anyone from asking.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Greg and Dianne Stucki
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 4:02 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes
>
>
>
> Seems more fair to me, somehow, yet I know that if I
> > added up the price of all of those things and asked for the money instead,
> > I'd get it.  Maybe I just don't like charging my friends money, yet
> working
> > a trade in objects is more acceptable.
>
> Mara, I feel like a trade is more acceptable to me because it IS easier to
> quantify. Not everyone makes the same amount of money, but everyone is given
> the same number of hours in a day. As for me, a trade would be more
> acceptable because cash would invariably wind up being spent on something
> other than what I had planned!
>
> Dianne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye (was fulled silk)
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:19:36 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 21 Jan 2002 Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> DYE TIPS:
<Lots of good stuff snipped>

I don't have a suitable sink for dyeing, so I use the washer -- and I
bought a washer with a metal drum instead of a plastic one just for this
reason. (You can still dye with a plastic tub, but it turns colors, which
is unnerving when you put your regular wash in later.)

> For light colors, you need 1 box per every 3 yards of fabric.  For
> medium to dark colors, or brights, use 2 boxes per 3 yds.

I have had my fill of dissolving the powder dyes, and I use only the
liquid bottles now. For many years I have made a practice of buying up the
potentially suitable colors at drugstores and such that are going out of
business -- there's often a nice selection of Rit bottles marked down to
.99/bottle or some such. 

> Testing with a swatch is, of course a good idea, but not always practical 
> with this method.

Having bottles on hand makes test-dyeing swatches very easy. For each of
my basic dyeing colors (gold, red, blue, green, etc.) I set aside one
bottle as the one to use for swatch-dyeing, and I mark it clearly so I
know it's not a full bottle. To test, I put 1/2 cup boiling water into a
glass (Pyrex) custard cup, stir in 1/2 tsp. of dye, then drop in the
washed wet swatch and let sit for an hour. Then I rinse with cold water.
As always, protect your surface with newspapers and wear rubber gloves. I
stir with a disposable plastic spoon. I usually line up five or six cups
at a time and may test several different fabrics. I may not get exactly
the same shade, but this is enough to show me how the dye will take on a
given fabric, particularly on blends and two-tone brocades. I can also
experiment with mixes of colors this way, to get in the neighborhood of
the shade I want.

> I wash my fabric in the washer on hot first, with "All Free & Clear."

Hey, that's what I used this week! Usually I use Tide Free or Cheer Free,
though.

> You'll want to lift it out by the fabric edge and re-insert a few
> times, to ensure even dying that you can't get from a washing machine
> (cuz it twists up).

I do this when washer dyeing too, every 10-15 minutes, when I reset the
cycle knob to continue the agitation. This was a real pain this time,
because I had 11 one-yard pieces of wool plus the four-yard piece of silk!
The whole process took a couple of hours, as I wanted to be sure of a deep
color, but the water was still very warm by the time I decided to rinse.

--Robin


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In a message dated 1/21/02 12:18:37 PM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> By "the T-square" do you mean Trafalgar Square?
> 
Yes, I couldn't remember how to spell it.
Kelly


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/21/02 12:18:37 PM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">By "the T-square" do you mean Trafalgar Square?
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>Yes, I couldn't remember how to spell it.
<BR>Kelly
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sillly corset tale
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:40:54 -0500
Status: RO

At 04:58 PM 01/20/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>
>They were my 11th thru 15th corsets. We designed the patterns right on the
>wearers. IMHO, the only way to do it. After you've done a few others, first!
>OK, we looked at a few real ones in museums & in vintage clothing dealer
>collections and a field trip to some vintage clothing dealers show in SF
>(where the bride lived). Maybe even looked at Norah Waugh's book.
>--cin

Ah, thanks, I was wondering.  I've made up a couple of Victorian corsets
from the Laughing Moon pattern, but hadn't seen any Edwardian (ca.
1900-1910) corset patterns for sale.  I've drafted 18th c. stays directly
on the customer, but haven't tried doing that for later period corsets.  Is
it difficult?  Do you start with a sloper, or...?

-- Mara

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:01:26 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net> wrote:
> I've made up a couple
> of Victorian corsets
> from the Laughing Moon pattern, but hadn't seen any
> Edwardian (ca.
> 1900-1910) corset patterns for sale.  
> -- Mara
> 


Huh.  I have (but have not yet made up, so don't ask)
the Past Patterns #106 "Edwardian Corset."  The liner
notes, which I just skimmed through again, make a few
references to an "original" that they apparently based
the pattern on, but don't seem to specifically date
that original.  The woman in the cover picture (a
period-looking line drawing) has that lovely Grecian
bend.  I bought this pattern intending it to be the
foundation for a c. 1905 gown (not made yet, either). 
I got it from Amazon D.G., but I expect you could get
it elsewhere as well.

-Angela

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 21 14:33:34 2002
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:01:15 -0600
Status: RO

I recently did my first barter for sewing.  A sister of a friend needs a simple tunic made for her fiance and sleeves made for her wedding dress.  She had tried hiring a regular seamstress, but that person couldn't work without a pattern and didn't understand "period" clothing/styles and "lost" fabric and basically refused to carry out parts of the design requested.  I don't know how much she was charging.  
I had a hard time trying to come up with a fee, because I love to sew and help out,  but you know, I had grass ankle deep that had to get mowed before the holidays, and I could either sew their stuff or mow my grass... He was out of work and was able to get the grass mowed on a day when I was at my full time job and even tuned up the mower.  It all worked in the end because her car ended up  needing a transmission and there was no longer funds for the seamstress.  For me, I would have had to pay someone else forty dollars to get my lawn mowed.  It worked.
Alexandria
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Subject: [h-cost] money/trade  for costumes
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:59:01 -0800
Status: RO

I do both things and it has seemed to work for me.  I have beautiful 
hardwood bolt racks in my shop that I traded for costumes for the builder's 
two children.  With the little cash I do earn I generally just buy more 
fabric, so it's good to have a safe place to stack it all where I can see 
what I have.

I guess we all "sell" our art for different reasons just like we make it for 
different ones.  My mental illness progressed to a point that I haven't been 
able to hold down a regular job in four years, but on good days I can sew up 
a storm.  I just schedule some down time into my estimate and then if I 
finish early the customer is that much happier.

I'm blessed with a husband who works a real job and takes care of our bills, 
but my sewing gives me a sense of worth and contributing something to my 
world.  I don't know if I could support myself on what I make, but those of 
you who do are such an inspiration.  Just know that cash or trade, what you 
all do is make the world a more beautiful place.

Jennifer


>From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] money for costumes
>Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:55:18 -0800
>
>I'm probably being contrary to the good-feelings of this thread, but I hate
>working for barter.  I find it much harder to compare my 
>time/effort/materials
>against someone elses.

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 15:14:31 -0500
Status: RO

>   I
> can't pay a bill with embroidery, or whatever trade is offered is something I
> just don't need and wouldn't spend money to have someone do, no matter how nice
> it would be to have
>
> MaggiRos
>

It really depends on what the other person has to barter with.  I am a stay-at-home
mom, but I used to be a hairdresser.  I now do a little hair for barter.  Some of
the things I've gotten in return are as valuble as money.  I've had someone repair
my toilets and my garbage disposal.  If he hadn't done it, I would have had to pay
a plumber $50-60 an hour to do.  I've had customers do brake jobs and other car
repairs that would have cost hundreds of dollars.  Yeah, there's no cash being
exchanged, but in all those cases, it saved me enough money so that I could pay
bills.
Andrea


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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 15:13:08 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:33 PM 01/20/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, if you *really* can't find a use -- send it to me...
>
>In my mundane world I'm a scrap quilter. I have made quilts out of 
>everything from leather, fiberglass, acetate, rayon and even double knit 
>sweater material.
>
>Don't ask -- somehow I got suckered into one of those "Bet you can't" 
>situations.
>
>Katheryne

Hey, want some scraps?  I've got a large bag of scraps of corduroy, wool,
linen and other misc. stuff that I was vaguely considering making into
something like a hat, but am now thinking of throwing out because I'll
never get around to it...

-- Mara

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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:19:16 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I suspect this effect is related to satin - you know,
lots of long floats obscuring the ground weave, and so
it's difficult to discern the individual
threads/weaving pattern, but just seeing a nice smooth
surface.  When your (herringbone) fabric shrinks up,
the "ground" would tend to disappear underneath your
longer floats.  Further, according to my reference, "a
marked predominance of either warp of weft tends to
lessen the prominence of twill diagonals," and it
sounds like your fabric shrank more length-wise (warp)
than width-wise (weft).  If the longer floats were in
the weft threads, then that would accentuate the
"satin" effect and de-accentuate the twill design.

On felt, this source says "wool fibers have a scaly
surface structure which gives them, more than other
fibers, a tendency to cling firmly to each other when
subjected to the manipulations of the felting
process."  Since silk has an unusually smooth surface
structure, I would be surprised that the fibers would
be able to grab onto and adhere to each other, which
is what happens during fulling.

-Angela
(more on this source to follow in a post titled "book
review)


--- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Basically, yes, Instead of warping
> 1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4... you warp 
> 1,2,3,4,3,2,1,2,3,4 or some variation of that.
> That's actually a point 
> twill, herringbone sometimes has another shift in
> there. (I haven't 
> woven for a while, so I'm a little vague, here.) But
> it does affect 
> structure - you can end up with longer floats.  I'd
> never thought about 
> it, but I suppose they could full more closely. I've
> never woven it in 
> wool, always cotton, which shrank down to be nice
> and thick and durable, 
> but washing made the pattern more, not less,
> obvious.
> 
> Anne
> 
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> >On Sun, 20 Jan 2002 Margo@Margospatterns.com wrote:
> >
> >>I suspect the "fulling" might be due to the
> herringbone weave rather than
> >>the fiber.  I had some herringbone rayon suiting,
> and when I washed it I got
> >>a thick, spongy fabric with no visible
> herringbone.
> >>
> >
> >Yes, that's what happened here ... but I can't
> figure out what herringbone
> >would have to do with it. Herringbone is
> essentially twill, isn't it, save
> >that the direction of the diagonals changes at
> intervals?
> >
> >--Robin
> >
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] book review: Emery ??
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:31:40 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I had been meaning to ask the list about a book I
picked up at a used book store several months ago, but
forgot about it until I recently ran to it as
reference for the "fulled silk" question.

The book is "The Primary Structures of Fabrics - An
Illustrated Classification" by Irene Emery, originally
published by the Textile Museum, Washington, D.C., in
1966, this edition c1994.  ISBN 0-8230-4394-0.

The three parts of the book are Components of 
Fabric Structures, Classification of the Structures of
Fabrics, and Structures Accessory to Fabrics.  There
are hundreds of very clear photographs throughout the
book, showing all kinds of knots, knits, weaves, and
variations, done up in string so that you can see
what's going on.  I started to read it, and was very
impressed by the clarity and level of precision
involved.  I got nearly half-way through before I got
bogged down by the fact that I was basically reading
an encyclopedia (not excactly the most exciting
writing style), and set it aside - but I intend to go
back and read the rest of it someday.

My question is: has anyone ever heard of this woman,
and/or this book?  She gives some very specific
definitions for things, e.g. "fabric" versus
"textile", "braid" versus "plait" etc..  Does anyone
follow these definitions, or do the words remain as
squishy as they were when she set about to nail them
down?  1966 is a long time ago in terms of emerging
terminology in the academic and textile worlds.  How
closely should I read this book?

Thanks to all.
-Angela

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] money for costumes
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:39:53 -0800
Status: RO

Ah now that's different!  :)  I just don't seem to know anyone with those skills
who also needs new costumes!  That sort of thing really would work out nicely.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Andrea Gideon
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 12:15 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes
>
>
> >   I
> > can't pay a bill with embroidery, or whatever trade is offered is
> something I
> > just don't need and wouldn't spend money to have someone do, no
> matter how nice
> > it would be to have
> >
> > MaggiRos
> >
>
> It really depends on what the other person has to barter with.  I am
> a stay-at-home
> mom, but I used to be a hairdresser.  I now do a little hair for
> barter.  Some of
> the things I've gotten in return are as valuble as money.  I've had
> someone repair
> my toilets and my garbage disposal.  If he hadn't done it, I would
> have had to pay
> a plumber $50-60 an hour to do.  I've had customers do brake jobs and
> other car
> repairs that would have cost hundreds of dollars.  Yeah, there's no cash being
> exchanged, but in all those cases, it saved me enough money so that I
> could pay
> bills.
> Andrea
>
>


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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:35:35 -0800
Status: RO

Jennifer wrote:

I do both things and it has seemed to work for me.  I have beautiful
hardwood bolt racks in my shop that I traded for costumes for the builder's
two children.  With the little cash I do earn I generally just buy more
fabric, so it's good to have a safe place to stack it all where I can see
what I have.

----------------------------

Jennifer,

	What do your bolt racks look like?  I am about to get my sewing room
back-the one I had specially made with lots of florescent light in "natural"
bulbs, and 8 electrical outlets, all on their own big circuit!  I have
boxes, chests, and baskets of fabric and I can't use the floor to ceiling
2x6 with 3/4" doweling in between to hang fabric from in this room, so I'd
be fascinated to see how others solve the problem of having their fabric
visible, easily accessible and up out of the way.

Regina Romsey


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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:33:40 -0500
Status: RO

At 1/21/2002 03:39 PM, you wrote:
>Ah now that's different!  :)  I just don't seem to know anyone with those 
>skills
>who also needs new costumes!  That sort of thing really would work out nicely.
>
>
>MaggiRos

Katheryne waves her hand franticly!!!!

ME!!  ME!!! ME!!!!

I *love* to fix cars, and repair things around the house. Unfortunately, I 
can re-wire a phone, do plumbing or replace a car head gasket -- BUT -- 
have me try to lengthen and alter a dress pattern????

So if you are near the NYC area I think we can trade specialties. I'll pay 
for the fabric as long as you pay for the parts for repairs.

Katheryne

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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] sillly corset tale
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:43:00 +1100
Status: RO

Hmm I once saw a re-enactment of the fate of the Russain royal family in
which the costumer had put the daughters into corsets upside-down (with the
stocking clips jutting towards thier collars),

-C.

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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:44:53 GMT
Status: RO

On Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:35:35 -0800, the following was written in this
electric book by "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>:

>	What do your bolt racks look like?  I am about to get my sewing room
>back-the one I had specially made with lots of florescent light in "natural"
>bulbs, and 8 electrical outlets, all on their own big circuit!  I have
>boxes, chests, and baskets of fabric and I can't use the floor to ceiling
>2x6 with 3/4" doweling in between to hang fabric from in this room, so I'd
>be fascinated to see how others solve the problem of having their fabric
>visible, easily accessible and up out of the way.
I'm not jennifer, but what I use in my (not very big, or custom
designed, but well lit and comfy) studio are cube shelves. These:
(beware the wrap)

http://www.officemax.com/max/solutions/product/prodBlock.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&expansionOID=-536891936&prodBlockOID=49297

They are listed at $30, but are often on sale for $20. 

I have two walls lined to within 3' of the ceiling with them, the big
one packed solid with flat folds of fabric, sorted by type. The nice
thing about these is that I can change them if I need or want to
rearrange my sewing studio, since they are modular. You can get more
storage out of two sets combined than out of two sets seperately. I
also have a couple of 'drawers' for scraps and projects, that are your
garden-variety cheapo filecrates. They fit perfectly. Wonderful
things. I love'em.

My plastic bins (ex-fabric storage) are now used for storing things in
my garage, and for toting things to and from events.

Maura Bass
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book review: Emery ??
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:58:00 GMT
Status: RO

On Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:31:40 -0800 (PST), the following was written in
this electric book by Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>:

>I had been meaning to ask the list about a book I
>picked up at a used book store several months ago, but
>forgot about it until I recently ran to it as
>reference for the "fulled silk" question.
>
>The book is "The Primary Structures of Fabrics - An
>Illustrated Classification" by Irene Emery, originally
>published by the Textile Museum, Washington, D.C., in
>1966, this edition c1994.  ISBN 0-8230-4394-0.

It's a wonderful book. I showed it to my Textile Sciences teacher and
she congratulated me on owning and using a copy of this pioneering
work, and encouraged me to bring it to class to share as often as
possible (which was no mean feat, given the size of the book and the
two-mile walk to the college from my house!).

If you are unsure of definitions (some may have changed, but many have
not), get a copy of Pizzuto's Fabric Science for cross-reference
purposes. Mine is 6th edition (circa 1995), and it's a textbook, so
finding a used copy shouldn't be difficult.

I find it very useful for many things, partly because I also spin,
weave, knit, crochet, etc. It's in my weaving library, but I often get
it out to show people what 'twill' and 'satin' structures are (among
other things).

Maura Bass
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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From: "Lyn Greaves- Thorny Rose" <rosamund@frontiernet.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:28:57 -0500
Status: RO

I use the Closet Maid plastic coated metal rack shelving.  (Carried by both
Lowe's and Home Depot in the closet section)

It comes with both the bars on the walls (where you place the shelf
supports) or free supports.

    GO WITH THE BARS. . . that said, I tried the free supports and had 4
shelves collapse- seems they are only rated for about 100lbs per linear foot
(according to the maker), but only about 1 foot high of fabric collapsed
them.

HOWEVER, once I switched to the other, I haven't had a problem.  Using them,
I have over 100 feet of shelf space in my 15 foot square room (along with my
4ft by 8ft cutting table. . ) and only shrank my room 20" on each wall (20"
wide shelves)



Lyn Greaves
Thorny Rose

** A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 4:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage


> Jennifer wrote:
>
> I do both things and it has seemed to work for me.  I have beautiful
> hardwood bolt racks in my shop that I traded for costumes for the
builder's
> two children.  With the little cash I do earn I generally just buy more
> fabric, so it's good to have a safe place to stack it all where I can see
> what I have.
>
> ----------------------------
>
> Jennifer,
>
> What do your bolt racks look like?  I am about to get my sewing room
> back-the one I had specially made with lots of florescent light in
"natural"
> bulbs, and 8 electrical outlets, all on their own big circuit!  I have
> boxes, chests, and baskets of fabric and I can't use the floor to ceiling
> 2x6 with 3/4" doweling in between to hang fabric from in this room, so I'd
> be fascinated to see how others solve the problem of having their fabric
> visible, easily accessible and up out of the way.
>
> Regina Romsey
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 21 17:59:54 2002
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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Edwardian corsets (was: sillly corset tale)
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:28:42 -0500
Status: RO

At 12:01 PM 01/21/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Huh.  I have (but have not yet made up, so don't ask)
>the Past Patterns #106 "Edwardian Corset."  The liner
>notes, which I just skimmed through again, make a few
>references to an "original" that they apparently based
>the pattern on, but don't seem to specifically date
>that original.  The woman in the cover picture (a
>period-looking line drawing) has that lovely Grecian
>bend.  I bought this pattern intending it to be the
>foundation for a c. 1905 gown (not made yet, either). 
>I got it from Amazon D.G., but I expect you could get
>it elsewhere as well.
>
>-Angela

Well, I've seen that one on the web, but for some reason assumed it was a
bit earlier in date... ca. 1890, maybe?  Well, let me know if it works for
your 1905 gown, please?

Thanks,
Mara

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From: "Sue Shatto" <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:32:02 -0500
Status: RO

I bought 3 or 4 fabric bolt racks from Minnesota Fabrics when they went out
of business. They are white humps that slip inside the bolt. They are in a
curved configuration. I'd be glad to sell them to anyone who needs them for
$10 a piece and mailing cost.
Cordially,
Sue Shatto
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick, MD 21701
http://wwwVictorianMillinery.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <chimericalgirl@attbi.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage


> On Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:35:35 -0800, the following was written in this
> electric book by "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>:
>
> > What do your bolt racks look like?  I am about to get my sewing room
> >back-the one I had specially made with lots of florescent light in
"natural"
> >bulbs, and 8 electrical outlets, all on their own big circuit!  I have
> >boxes, chests, and baskets of fabric and I can't use the floor to ceiling
> >2x6 with 3/4" doweling in between to hang fabric from in this room, so
I'd
> >be fascinated to see how others solve the problem of having their fabric
> >visible, easily accessible and up out of the way.
> I'm not jennifer, but what I use in my (not very big, or custom
> designed, but well lit and comfy) studio are cube shelves. These:
> (beware the wrap)
>
>
http://www.officemax.com/max/solutions/product/prodBlock.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=
yes&expansionOID=-536891936&prodBlockOID=49297
>
> They are listed at $30, but are often on sale for $20.
>
> I have two walls lined to within 3' of the ceiling with them, the big
> one packed solid with flat folds of fabric, sorted by type. The nice
> thing about these is that I can change them if I need or want to
> rearrange my sewing studio, since they are modular. You can get more
> storage out of two sets combined than out of two sets seperately. I
> also have a couple of 'drawers' for scraps and projects, that are your
> garden-variety cheapo filecrates. They fit perfectly. Wonderful
> things. I love'em.
>
> My plastic bins (ex-fabric storage) are now used for storing things in
> my garage, and for toting things to and from events.
>
> Maura Bass
> ---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
> "We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either
> hand..." - the Flash Girls
>         }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 23:44:18 +0000
Status: RO

Hi list.

I'm thinking about early set-in sleeves, prompted by a friend.  I can
see from Marc's extant garment pages that they were using s-shaped
sleeve heads in the 14th century.  Now, with modern curved sleeve heads,
you have to gather the top to ease it into the armhole.  Is there any
evidence whether this was always done?  Is it possible to make a set-in
sleeve fit without gathering?  Or is there some way you don't need it on
a s-shaped sleeve but you do on a "sine-curve" one?

I'm quite surprised by these sleeves, because I would have thought you
needed pattern drafting on paper to get a sleeve and armhole to match.
What do those of you who are experienced in draping patterns think?

JEan 
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:39:43 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:43 AM 01/22/2002 +1100, you wrote:
>Hmm I once saw a re-enactment of the fate of the Russain royal family in
>which the costumer had put the daughters into corsets upside-down (with the
>stocking clips jutting towards thier collars),
>
>-C.

(snort)  That's too funny!  What did he think the clips were for???

Speaking of stocking clips or garter clips, I've seen a couple of
illustrations of early 19th c. costume where the women have their corsets
on, over petticoats and knickers etc., with the garters clipped to their
stockings.  The garters, of course, are attached to their corsets, which
are worn over the petticoat/combination/other underclothes, but they attach
to the stockings, which are, of course, _under_ everything else, so the
garters wind up bunching the petticoat up between the top of the stocking
and the bottom of the corset.  Looks inconvenient as heck, and has me
wondering why such a cumbersome method was devised.  I have a good idea
that it's because the older style of garter -- a band of material  tied
around the leg at the top of the stocking -- was pretty inconvenient in its
own way, as I find that no matter how I tie my garters for 18th c.
reenacting, they won't stay put, so I wind up rolling the tops of my
stockings so they make their own garters.  So attaching suspenders to the
bottom of a corset might actually be an advance... but it still looks
awkward to me.

Did women in this period sometimes use other methods to hold up their
stockings?  Just curious.

-- Mara

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 21 18:57:22 2002
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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:31:01 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

The gathering is not really gathering. :)  If you
trace a line on the sleeve piece along the stitching
line, and measure it, and do the same on the body
piece, you should see that they are the same length. 
However, because there are curves involved, the length
of the edge of the fabric on the two pieces is
different.  When you line up the two pieces of fabric
to sew them together, it is easiest to put the edges
together and line them up that way - but because the
edges are different lengths, they end up not fitting
together properly.  So you run the slight gathering
stitch to encourage the fabric to lay the way you
want, to counteract the effect of the curve: when you
are done stitching, the seam should lay smooth, with
no "gathering."  Because this technique is used to
counteract curves, it is useful for any seam where one
piece is curved, or a different shape from the other,
not exclusively for our common sleevecap shape.

I have never tried not doing this, but I would expect
that what would happen would be that the sleeve piece
would stretch on the bias, and pull funny at the seam.
 So I would expect that people draping a fit would
figure this out, even if through a slightly different
empirical process.

-Angela


--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Hi list.
> 
> I'm thinking about early set-in sleeves, prompted by
> a friend.  I can
> see from Marc's extant garment pages that they were
> using s-shaped
> sleeve heads in the 14th century.  Now, with modern
> curved sleeve heads,
> you have to gather the top to ease it into the
> armhole.  Is there any
> evidence whether this was always done?  Is it
> possible to make a set-in
> sleeve fit without gathering?  Or is there some way
> you don't need it on
> a s-shaped sleeve but you do on a "sine-curve" one?
> 
> I'm quite surprised by these sleeves, because I
> would have thought you
> needed pattern drafting on paper to get a sleeve and
> armhole to match.
> What do those of you who are experienced in draping
> patterns think?
> 
> JEan 
> -- 
> Jean Waddie

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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:49:59 -0700
Status: RO


My best case of this was a few summers ago: I needed to have my
medieval crossbow repaired.  The person who was best able to do it
didn't have the time because he had to do some caligraphy.  I'm not a
caligrapher, but another friend is - but she didn't have time to do it
because she needed to make some garb for Pennsic.  Aha!  I used to be
a garb merchant!  I made her garb from fabric she provided, she did
the caligraphy for our other friend, and he fixed my crossbow.  

					...eliz

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:01:17 -0800
Status: RO

12 or so strips of stiff fabric (canvas, mail bag). Keep pinching & pinning
until you have a soft fitting body shape that kinda looks like the pictures.
Copy draft to paper.  Repeat. Add bones & casings when you're ready.  You
know casings & closures & finishings already.  'Bout the same.  Nuthin'
really different from 18th or 19th c, except the busk shape.
PS. What about Past Patterns?  I vaguely think they have an Edwardian?
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo 

> I've drafted 18th c. stays directly
> on the customer, but haven't tried doing that for later 
> period corsets.  Is
> it difficult?  Do you start with a sloper, or...?
> 
> -- Mara
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:giving up making costumes
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:05:40 -0800
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Bjarne,

   I am so sad to hear this! I do hope you will at least continue to sew =
for yourself and those close to you. Your work is downright incredible; =
so much that you inspired me in the fine art of fine costuming. I agree =
that you should get top dollar for your work. Just from viewing photos =
of it I can tell it would be worth each and every cent.
               You truly are a great artisan. I do honestly hope one day =
you will return to your work.

                                            -Victoria

  


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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"
size=3D3>Bjarne,</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"
size=3D3></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D3>&nbsp;&nbsp; I
am so sad to hear this! I do hope you will at least continue to sew for =
yourself
and those close to you. Your work is downright incredible; so =
much&nbsp;that you
inspired me in the fine art of fine costuming. I agree that you should =
get top
dollar for your work. Just from viewing photos of it I can tell it would =
be
worth each and every cent.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"
size=3D3>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
You truly are a great artisan. I do honestly hope one day you will =
return to
your work.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"
size=3D3></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D3><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; -Victoria</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT><BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [vint] Vintage clothing show web sites
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Does anyone know what happened to the vintage show that was supposed to =
take place early this year in Miami?
Sherry

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Large cup bras online?
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 02:31:20 -0500
Status: RO

In lists.sca.h-costume, you wrote:
> Try Lady Grace Bras, http://www.ladygrace.com/ . They have a couple of
> Nursing Bras in that size range.

I'm a big fan of http://www.bodywise.com.au/

K.

-- 
Lady Katherine Rowberd (mka Kirrily "Skud" Robert)
katherine@infotrope.net  http://infotrope.net/sca/
Caldrithig, Skraeling Althing, Ealdormere
"The rose is red, the leaves are grene, God save Elizabeth our Queene"
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dorothy Dodderidge's Tomb Effigy
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:14:49 -0800
Status: RO

I should add that I think the billowy, sort of hood-like thing Ms. 
Dodderidge is wearing on her head is probably supposed to represent a 
very fine, almost transparent silk veil propped out on wires. You see 
these kind of dimly in the background of many of the portraits of 
Queen Elizabeth and sometimes other noble ladies. It looks much odder 
carved in stone than in the portraits.

At 9:41 AM +0000 1/21/02, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>This style of effigy (leaning on one elbow) seems to have been a 
>fashion at the time. There's one illustrated in the Cunnington 17th 
>century book (possibly the Exeter one? - book not to hand). When I 
>saw a similar effigy in Ludlow parish church (Shropshire), I thought 
>"oh, it's the one in the book" but it isn't, she's on the other 
>elbow! I think there's also one in St. Albans Abbey.


-- 
____________________________________________________________
O  "Christian Ashley, gentlewoman to Lady Stafford"
|     Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
+   Guild of St. George, Northern California
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:38:16 -0800
Status: RO

Robin, since you don't know the fiber content, do you think you could 
have gotten a silk/wool blend rather than pure silk? They aren't 
common of course (except these days you see silk blended with 
ANYTHING) but I've worked with some silk-wool blend yarns that were 
very silky in feel, yet were only about 50% silk.

(I was making a pair of very silly heavy socks with ribs that spiral 
to the right on one sock, to the left on the other -- you can wear 
them either spiraling toward each other or away <g>:)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:58:29 -0800
Status: RO

I finally tracked down one of my favorite authors' quotes on British food.

"Yorkshire pudding is really only popover batter treated differently. 
What is better with roast beef? No one needs to turn up his nose at 
English cooking until he has tasted English roast beef with Yorkshire 
pudding -- and then he certainly won't. All right -- suppose they do 
have four vegetables, three of which are cabbage. A lot worse things 
can happen to you than some well-cooked cabbage (gooseberry tart with 
custard made of imitation eggs, for instance, or, nearer home, 
doughnuts that have soaked fat, or pale, tough piecrust)."

(Louise Andrews Kent, _Mrs. Appleyard's Kitchen_, 1942)
-- 
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|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fwd: Re: [YeMerrieGreenwoodList] Knitting Patterns
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:11:48 -0800
Status: RO

Lori, you wrote:
>  > Does anyone know of any period knitting patterns I can find, or what key
>  > words to look under, or what kind of knitted garment/item is
>  > acceptable at the time.  Anykind of advice for a beginner knitter for
>  > a renaissaunce faire member should know, need to know, or wants to
>>  know.
>  >
>  > -Lori Irwin

Knitting seems to have come to Europe from the Mediterranean area 
sometime in the 1300s or early 1400s. At first it seems to have been 
used mostly for "accessory" items such as hats and gloves. For a 
Renaissance Faire set in the 16th century (1500s, in the reign of 
Henry VIII or Elizabeth I), I'd suggest the following would be 
appropriate:

(1) Simple knitted bowl-shaped caps (sometimes called "watch caps"), 
probably mostly seen on lower-class working men, sailors, etc. These 
could be anywhere from 3 or 4 stitches to the inch in coarse wool 
yarn, down to 10 to 15 stitches to the inch in very fine wool yarn. 
The coarser ones would probably be felted (knitted extra large and 
then washed in hot water and soap to shrink them).

(2) Finely knitted wool or silk coin purses: simple rectangular bags, 
maybe 3x5 inches, with drawstring tops and possibly tassels at the 
bottom. Solid colors, stripes, and maybe simple color patterns would 
probably be appropriate. There are a number of such purses in silk 
described in the inventories of Henry VIII, and there's a surviving 
one in wool from about 1685. They invariably seem to be used to hold 
coins.

(3) Knitted wool or silk stockings, anywhere from coarse wool for 
working women and men (about 6 or 7 stitches to the inch) to very 
fine ones patterned with knit and purl stitches in silk for noble men 
or women. These seem often to have been about knee high, but some of 
the men's fitted "hose" worn by noblemen were also knitted of silk or 
very fine wool, and these reached all the way to the top of the leg.

(4) Knitted wool "flat caps" -- the kind that look like a beret. (You 
sometimes see these too on people playing Scottish highlanders, and 
the knitted ones are authentic, while the often seen crocheted ones 
are not. We don't see anything like crochet till around 1800 at the 
earliest.)

(5) Knitted mittens or gloves, if the weather is cold.

(6) People _might_ also have been wearing short-sleeved knitted wool 
undershirts in cold weather, but these wouldn't show, and the only 
one I know of that we actually have surviving is from about 1685, 
almost 100 years after the period we're talking about. (And most 
Renaissance Faires I know about are in the summer, anyway :)

Remember that knitting at this period was mostly a commerical 
activity, done for money: either by poor people making items out of 
coarse wool for sale, or expensive specialist craftsmen knitting very 
fine and elaborate items in silk for the aristocracy. It didn't 
really become a leisure-time recreation for middle- or upper-class 
ladies until well after 1600 (and perhaps not really till the 1800s).

In the last few years of the 16th century (i.e. the 1590s) you begin 
to see elaborately patterned, button-front silk "sweaters" or jackets 
worn by a few of the nobility, probably only at home or in informal 
situations. These become fairly common in the first half of the 17th 
century, and quite a few have survived and are in various museums. 
They seem to have been commercially made, quite possibly on knitting 
frames rather than on needles.

Other than these, we don't seem to see large "body" garments during 
this period,  just accessories. Knitted shawls don't become common 
until the Victorian era, and the sweater or knitted shirt as an 
everyday garment doesn't seem to be common until sometime in the 20th 
century, after the First World War.

*          *           *          *          *          *          *          *

For a beginner, I'd recommend making a simple wool pouch or two. You 
can simply knit a rectangular panel about 3" by 10", fold it in half, 
sew up the sides and run a drawstring in and out at the top. I'd 
suggest you use the smallest needles and the finest wool you're 
comfortable with.

NONE of the silk items are beginners' projects. The silk used is very 
fine and slippery, and it can be very frustrating to deal with until 
you have quite a bit of experience with wool.

The bowl-shaped cap and simple plain stockings are probably the next 
easiest, but they do require you to teach yourself (or have someone 
teach you) to knit around on four needles. This is really much easier 
than it sounds. I always recommend Elizabeth Zimmerman's _Knitting 
Without Tears_ to beginners, as she has lots of good ideas about 
knitting, very clear drawings and explanations, and she's also quite 
funny. I know Amazon.com carries it and I expect other booksellers 
would too.

I don't know of many instructions out there written specifically for 
beginners, but feel free to e-mail me privately and I can write you 
some.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:03:15 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 21 Jan 2002, Chris Laning wrote:

> Robin, since you don't know the fiber content, do you think you could
> have gotten a silk/wool blend rather than pure silk? They aren't
> common of course (except these days you see silk blended with
> ANYTHING) but I've worked with some silk-wool blend yarns that were
> very silky in feel, yet were only about 50% silk.

Well, the fiber content is the one thing I feel secure about. The owner of
this place is very careful not to label anything unless he gets the
content from his source -- when they don't give him a content, he doesn't
guess, and just puts "blend" even if it might be pure wool or whatever.
(And sometimes he does get a wool/silk blend, but I haven't convinced
myself that's documentably medieval, so I haven't bought any.)

Naturally, I don't trust his source anyway, and burn-tested it myself. I
got the very mild whiff of burning animal tissue that you get with silk,
but not the strong smell you get with wool. I checked the ash and burn
behavior too; I forget the details, but I was satisfied that it was indeed
silk as labeled. There may have been, say, a bit of rayon that I didn't
identify, but I'm pretty sure there was no wool. And the silk hand is
unmistakeable.

(I could probably put it under a microscope to check more.)

It's the *type* of silk I don't know. It does have a bit of "raw" feel,
but not the awful slubbiness normally associated with "raw silk."

--Robin

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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:48:45 -0500
Status: RO

At 08:13 AM 1/21/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Baked beans? For breakfast? How completely _weird_ <ggg>
>--Sue, refraining from saying "eeeuuuuuw"...... (although the tomatoes
>and mushrooms sound nummy ;-)
>
 Odd, why would the time of day affect the taste of food?

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:14:58 -0600
Status: RO

Jean Waddie wrote:
> 
> Is it possible to make a set-in
> sleeve fit without gathering?  Or is there some way you don't need it on
> a s-shaped sleeve but you do on a "sine-curve" one?

As Angela says, it's not precisely gathering, but I must disagree when
she says that the seam lines on sleeve and armscye are the same length. 
The sleeve is usually just slightly longer, and the extra length, known
as "ease," is all in the top half.  This is why sleeves usually have
notches about halfway up the armscye front and back--to make sure that
the ease all goes at the top.  The reason for this is that the armscye
seam on a basic fitted garment usually hits just before the shoulder
starts to curve down into the arm, leaving the rounded end of the
shoulder to be covered by the top of the sleeve.  The ease in the top of
the sleeve allows the sleeve to swell slightly to gracefully follow this
curve, rather than being flat over the opening like a manhole cover.
 
> I'm quite surprised by these sleeves, because I would have thought you
> needed pattern drafting on paper to get a sleeve and armhole to match.
> What do those of you who are experienced in draping patterns think?

You can draw it straight onto the fabric, but you have to estimate well
and then measure to make sure the sleeve cap is the right length.  A
good non-period cheat is to measure the armscye, add your 1/2-3/4" of
ease, then use the tape measure on its edge to form a curve that is the
right shape and length.  Draw along the tape measure.  Measure the
resulting curve, adjust the curve as necessary, then cut outside the
line (adding your seam allowance).  Or, make your adjustments by adding
a triangular gusset to the seam, which will be on the back of your arm
(a perfect place for a little extra give).  You can see the type of
gusset I mean here (thank you Marc):
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/%7Emarc-carlson/cloth/herjol42.html

Melanie Schuessler
[cutter/draper, Skylight Opera Theatre]
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:05:33 -0800
Status: RO

Sorry, Kat, I don't think this is going to work out, since I'm in Los Angeles.
Good try, though! :)


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Purple Kat
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 2:34 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] money for costumes
>
>
> At 1/21/2002 03:39 PM, you wrote:
> >Ah now that's different!  :)  I just don't seem to know anyone with those
> >skills
> >who also needs new costumes!  That sort of thing really would work
> out nicely.
> >
> >
> >MaggiRos
>
> Katheryne waves her hand franticly!!!!
>
> ME!!  ME!!! ME!!!!
>
> I *love* to fix cars, and repair things around the house. Unfortunately, I
> can re-wire a phone, do plumbing or replace a car head gasket -- BUT --
> have me try to lengthen and alter a dress pattern????
>
> So if you are near the NYC area I think we can trade specialties. I'll pay
> for the fabric as long as you pay for the parts for repairs.
>
> Katheryne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 21 21:23:37 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: knitting at ren. faires
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:56:57 -0500
Status: RO

>From what I found, if you're doing a Faire set in England, before about 1550, the
only knitting you *might* find is the fulled caps... unless you're protraying a
Landsknect follower (they had knit garments earlier).  Toward the end of that
period you *might* find undertunics for very young children/infants.

Of course, all of the items that Chris passed on are find for Elizabethian
England.  (BTW, apparently Henry VIII *never* wore anything but cut and fitted
cloth hose/stockings... and as far as the lists folks have studied, never owned any
knit hose)

*But* also you will find that pretty much all knitters were at the very bottom of
the pecking order... knitting being something that was taught at some "improved"
poor houses (forget the proper name for them right now) to give the women there a
way to try to provide for themselves... as was bobbin lace which also arrived in
England as a craft around that time.  Oh... and towards the end of Elizabeth's
reign, as the colonies began, knitting was taught to children at Dame Schools (and
their equivalent... there are at least three names for the same thing... woman
(usually) teaching basics to children so they can read their prayers, at the same
time they teach them to sew or knit... I *think* I've come across simple backstrap
weaving... for garters, etc. as well... but don't know what my source was for that
one).

*g*  I was trying to come up with another character for faire that would get me out
of nobles (even if it will mean my knees will start to dislike me by the end of
faire)... and since it's been a Henry VIII faire for years, kept finding my ideas
trashed  (the one requirement is that I am able to do some sort of "finger twiddle"
on and off during faire... well, than and it has to fit in with the Hengrave Hall
household or w/in the wool business (other than spinster there's not much there for
the first half of the century).

-Elisabeth



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 21 21:49:27 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:39:38 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 21 Jan 2002, Jean Waddie wrote:

> I'm thinking about early set-in sleeves, prompted by a friend.  I can
> see from Marc's extant garment pages that they were using s-shaped
> sleeve heads in the 14th century.  Now, with modern curved sleeve
> heads, you have to gather the top to ease it into the armhole.  Is
> there any evidence whether this was always done?  Is it possible to
> make a set-in sleeve fit without gathering?  Or is there some way you
> don't need it on a s-shaped sleeve but you do on a "sine-curve" one?
> 
> I'm quite surprised by these sleeves, because I would have thought you
> needed pattern drafting on paper to get a sleeve and armhole to match.
> What do those of you who are experienced in draping patterns think?

Speaking personally: I do not do pattern drafting -- I mark and cut
directly on the fabric, and I do most of my measurements by wrapping
fabric on the body. My set-in sleeves, when completed, fit exactly in
their armholes, and I do not use ease. They are not "manhole covers" as
Melanie describes in another post, but you do not need ease to provide for
the swell of the shoulder and upper arm; you just need to find the right
angles and curves, and you need to place your armhole seam at the right
spot on the body, and the grainline of the sleeve piece on just the right
line of the arm.

I see no indication of the use of ease or any puffiness of the sleeve head
from the introduction of the set-in sleeve (about 1330) to well into the
15th century. That's for fitted dresses, not things like houppelande
sleeves, which are sometimes clearly shown as being pleated into the
shoulder and hang loose or wide from there. I do see some suggestion of
ease by the 16th century, so certainly Melanie's method makes more sense
for the period she's working in. By then, though, many new tailoring
methods had been introduced, and the entire approach to garment
construction was different than it had been a century or two earlier. (I
haven't looked closely enough at Arnold's books to determine what the
status of sleeve ease was on the garments she examined, as this doesn't
represent was was done in my own period of interest.)

My method for setting the sleeve into the armhole mostly involves matching
up the seam lines and ignoring the seam allowances, and then clipping
curves and trimming close. The setting-in process is easiest done by hand,
and sometimes I adjust the armhole or sleeve seam(s) to compensate if I
misjudged the curve of the sleeve piece. The curves are dynamic enough
that a tightening or expansion of even 1/8 inch can make a dramatic
difference in the product, so there's lots of (literally!) wiggle room for
adjusting to fit. Remember that the fabrics used were very flexible, too,
particularly on curves. Paper patterns and numerical measurements do not
account for the flexibility provided by curved edges, springy fabrics, and
hand-basting.

The sleeve cap itself is very shallow and wide compared to modern, and the
highest part falls at the upper back of the shoulder, about two or three
inches behind the shoulder line, while the deepest part of the opposite
curve falls at the lower front of the armpit, about two or three inches
forward of the body's side seam. The armhole is also very small, and cut
very close to the underarm; if you cut it even a bit too low, you lose
range of motion.

You mention the garments on Marc's page. If you mean the Greenland
sleeves, note also that many of them had at least one inserted triangular
gusset. In analyzing several of the Greenland gowns, I found that, for
those cases at least, the sleeve pieces were the same width as the gore
pieces, which was half the width of the body pieces, suggesting a logical
cutting layout that generated rectangles and triangles that were then
shaped into body, gore, and sleeve components. When the width of the
sleeve-rectangle was not as wide as the sleeve needed to be, the gusset
made up the difference. The use of the gusset would also make fitting a
breeze. I would guess that the sleeve-piece was set in without ease,
leaving a gap where it came short, and the gusset was cut to fit the gap.

--Robin


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] sillly corset tale
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 19:42:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net> wrote:
> >
> >They were my 11th thru 15th corsets. We designed the patterns right on the
> >wearers. IMHO, the only way to do it. After you've done a few others, first!
> >OK, we looked at a few real ones in museums & in vintage clothing dealer
> >collections and a field trip to some vintage clothing dealers show in SF
> >(where the bride lived). Maybe even looked at Norah Waugh's book.
> >--cin
> 
> Ah, thanks, I was wondering.  I've made up a couple of Victorian corsets
> from the Laughing Moon pattern, but hadn't seen any Edwardian (ca.
> 1900-1910) corset patterns for sale.  I've drafted 18th c. stays directly
> on the customer, but haven't tried doing that for later period corsets.  Is
> it difficult?  Do you start with a sloper, or...?

Hmm, I must be missing posts again, or getting them in mixed-up order.

Past Patterns makes an Edwardian Corset pattern that works fine.  It was,
in fact, the first corset I ever made, though I'd done ren faire bodices
before that.  If your client isn't hourglass-shaped to start with, you
may need to do some tinkering with the side pieces.  

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] money for costumes/barter
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:32:36 -0800
Status: RO


------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1A2BA.C36B9930
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Hmm, where to snip?  Well, the one time I've bartered, and it was for day=
care, she did all the arranging dancing & swimming classes and the transp=
orting to and from during the summer for my youngest.  
She did the babysitting last summer, so you see she was the one working o=
n faith.  And given I am going through a nasty divorce with major life in=
terruptions, that was pretty hefty faith, on her part.

The barter was my sewing 12th night garb out of fabric the gal chose from=
 my stash.  And it worked!  Can't believe it did!  I got her dress done j=
ust in time for the 12th night that happened on 1/10.   The gown was cart=
ridge pleated, besides.

I felt it was a fair trade, and so did she.  It can work, but as you say =
if it didn't it could have put a real strain on the friendship.

 Gia/Giacinta
----- Original Message -----
From: Maggie Secara
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 11:05 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] money for costumes

I'm probably being contrary to the good-feelings of this thread, but I ha=
te
working for barter.  I find it much harder to compare my time/effort/mate=
rials
against someone elses. Five hours of sewing isn't the same kind of work a=
s 5
hours of yard work, to my mind.  So, how much IS?  But the real trouble i=
s, time
or not, I sew (or have sewn) for others mainly because I needed the money=
.  I
can't pay a bill with embroidery, or whatever trade is offered is somethi=
ng I
just don't need and wouldn't spend money to have someone do, no matter ho=
w nice
it would be to have.  And finally, several times I've made arrangements f=
or a
trade, the other side of the trade never materialized, and that is hard o=
n a
friendship, too.

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1A2BA.C36B9930
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <=
DIV>Hmm, where to snip?&nbsp; Well, the one time I've bartered, and it wa=
s for daycare, she did all the arranging dancing &amp; swimming classes a=
nd the transporting to and from&nbsp;during the&nbsp;summer for my younge=
st.&nbsp; <BR>She did the babysitting last summer, so you see she was the=
 one working on faith.&nbsp; And given I am going through a nasty divorce=
 with major life interruptions, that was pretty hefty faith, on her part.=
</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>The barter was my sewing 12th night garb ou=
t of fabric the gal chose from my stash.&nbsp; And it worked!&nbsp; Can't=
 believe it did!&nbsp; I got her dress done just in time for the 12th nig=
ht that happened on 1/10.&nbsp;&nbsp; The gown was cartridge pleated, bes=
ides.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I felt it was a fair trade, and so did=
&nbsp;she.&nbsp; It can work, but as you say if it didn't it could have p=
ut a real strain on the friendship.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;Gi=
a/Giacinta</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5=
px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">=
 <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV =
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B=
> Maggie Secara</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday=
, January 21, 2002 11:05 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:<=
/B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:=
</B> RE: [h-cost] money for costumes</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>I'm probably =
being contrary to the good-feelings of this thread, but I hate<BR>working=
 for barter.&nbsp; I find it much harder to compare my time/effort/materi=
als<BR>against someone elses. Five hours of sewing isn't the same kind of=
 work as 5<BR>hours of yard work, to my mind.&nbsp; So, how much IS?&nbsp=
; But the real trouble is, time<BR>or not, I sew (or have sewn) for other=
s mainly because I needed the money.&nbsp; I<BR>can't pay a bill with emb=
roidery, or whatever trade is offered is something I<BR>just don't need a=
nd wouldn't spend money to have someone do, no matter how nice<BR>it woul=
d be to have.&nbsp; And finally, several times I've made arrangements for=
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 23:02:46 -0600
Status: RO

A few more thoughts in response to Robin's wonderful descriptions:

First, I neglected to mention that the shallower the curve on a sleeve
cap, the less ease is needed.  Second, if you're using wool, the
elasticity of the fabric itself may provide all the spring you need to
get a smooth line over the shoulder.  So with a shallower earlier-period
curve in wool, I could see how you could do without ease as Robin says.  

One might encounter difficulties, however, in plain cotton or other
fabrics with no give, depending on how steep the curve of the sleeve cap
is. A fitted sleeve on a fitted bodice in cotton with no ease over the
sleeve cap tends to pull in unattractive ways when you put it on a body.
 Just my experience.

> I see no indication of the use of ease or any puffiness of the sleeve head
> from the introduction of the set-in sleeve (about 1330) to well into the
> 15th century.

Observation:  one can have a bit of ease with no puffiness at all. 
Question:  do we have exact enough information to be able to tell
whether or not there was ease in the 14th or 15th centuries?  I'm
talking about 1/2" to 3/4", which is not at all visible in looking at a
garment.  The only way to tell would be to carefully measure an extant
garment that had been taken apart.  Since wool is so forgiving, even
looking at a set-in sleeve on an extant piece might be deceiving, as the
ease can just disappear into the sponginess of the wool.

I'd love to have more information on this.

Melanie
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 23:59:51 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. I can probably help with some knitted items. It depends on what
period we are talking about (Henrican or Elizabethan English) and how
the person defines "beginner". The items in question are historical
redactions of existing archaeological finds, and may not be applicable
for RenFaire usage. Mike T.

Brenna Sharp wrote:

> If anyone can help this person, please do so by
> replying directly to her as she is (obviously) not on
> this list.  She gave permission for me to forward her
> request here.
>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:25:06 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:44 PM +0000 1/21/02, Jean Waddie wrote:
>Hi list.
>
>I'm thinking about early set-in sleeves, prompted by a friend.  I can
>see from Marc's extant garment pages that they were using s-shaped
>sleeve heads in the 14th century.  Now, with modern curved sleeve heads,
>you have to gather the top to ease it into the armhole.  Is there any
>evidence whether this was always done?  Is it possible to make a set-in
>sleeve fit without gathering?  Or is there some way you don't need it on
>a s-shaped sleeve but you do on a "sine-curve" one?

My experience, in working up reproductions of garments of this type, 
is that you don't have any ease or gathering and they fit perfectly 
anyway.  The shallower S-curve at the top of the sleeve means that 
the "undistorted" position for the sleeve (i.e. the one it would 
assume under zero gravity) is with the sleeves much more elevated 
towards the horizontal than for a modern cap sleeve.  The more 
extreme shape of modern sleeves is designed so that the "undistorted" 
position is  roughly with your arms down at your sides.

Picture, if you will, a cylinder (i.e., your sleeve) intersecting a 
vertical plane (an approximation for the garment).  If you set the 
cylinder horizontal (arms straight out to your sides), it will 
intersect the plane perpendicular to the sleeve axis, producing a 
perfectly circular cross-section, this is the equivalent of a 
completely unshaped sleeve and armscye.  The top of your sleeve is a 
straight line and is the smallest possible sewing line for attachment 
to the garment.

Now drop your arms/cylinder to a 45 degree angle.  The cylinder 
intersects your body-plane at an angle, with an elliptical cross 
section.  If you flatten out your cylinder, the top edge will form a 
sine-wave, and the length of the stitch "path" will be significantly 
longer than the preceding example.  All with the exact same "arm" 
size.

The further you drop your arms/cylinder towards the vertical, the 
more elongated your elliptical cross-section will be, and the longer 
your stitch-path will become ... except that now the top end of your 
hypothetical sleeve intersects the plane of your garment somewhere 
over your head.  So instead you take the upper part of the 
sleeve-cross-section-ellipse and crumple it down onto your actual 
shoulder, i.e., gather or ease the top of the sleeve.

I.e., the gathering is primarily a function of the angle at which the 
sleeve is designed to sit "naturally", and has nothing to do with fit 
in an absolute sense.

Heather
(see -- geometry _was_ useful!)
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 01:05:19 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO



Melanie and I agree on essentially all counts. Some elaborations follow:

> First, I neglected to mention that the shallower the curve on a sleeve
> cap, the less ease is needed.  Second, if you're using wool, the
> elasticity of the fabric itself may provide all the spring you need to
> get a smooth line over the shoulder.  So with a shallower
> earlier-period curve in wool, I could see how you could do without
> ease as Robin says.

Yes. That shallow cap is vital; the corresponding increase in width allows
for the fit over the upper arm that would otherwise be achieved with ease.
(Heather's description of the math behind this is wonderful.)

Wool is of course perfect. Linen is also very flexible, and I have done
the same with silk (with increased difficulty, but you need the *right*
silk).

> One might encounter difficulties, however, in plain cotton or other
> fabrics with no give, depending on how steep the curve of the sleeve
> cap is. A fitted sleeve on a fitted bodice in cotton with no ease over
> the sleeve cap tends to pull in unattractive ways when you put it on a
> body.  Just my experience.

Mine too.  It took me years to realize that the fitting problems I
struggled with most only occurred when I was using cotton.  Eventually I
gave up using cotton and even cotton blends, and those fitting problems
magically disappeared. One more likely reason why medieval people did not
generally use cotton for clothes, even when they were happily using it for
bed hangings and cushions and embroidery grounds.

> > I see no indication of the use of ease or any puffiness of the sleeve head
> > from the introduction of the set-in sleeve (about 1330) to well into the
> > 15th century.
> 
> Observation:  one can have a bit of ease with no puffiness at all. 
> Question:  do we have exact enough information to be able to tell
> whether or not there was ease in the 14th or 15th centuries?  I'm
> talking about 1/2" to 3/4", which is not at all visible in looking at a
> garment.  The only way to tell would be to carefully measure an extant
> garment that had been taken apart.  Since wool is so forgiving, even
> looking at a set-in sleeve on an extant piece might be deceiving, as the
> ease can just disappear into the sponginess of the wool.

I was thinking specifically of the puffiness as my visual clue. Heather is
the expert on extant garments, and I trust her assessment on that. But
Melanie is right that some inconsistency in measurement between armhole
and sleeve edge would probably be indistinguishable, particularly after
the armhole molds to the wearer. My guess, though, just on the basis of my
own experience in fitting without patterns, is that any such discrepancy
would occur as a natural process of handling the fabric and
pushing/pulling it into place, and was less likely to have been a result
of a conscious decision to "cut the sleeve cap larger and gather it in to
distribute the excess," which suggests a pre-planned approach.

In general, I have a strong suspicion that medieval clothing construction
was highly idiosyncratic; that different seamstresses developed their own
variants on techniques within a general framework of standard practice;
and that there were few rules of what was "correct" or "good" practice.
Today, we learn in sewing classes that there are certain ways to measure,
stitch, clip, turn, press, alter, etc., and we learn certain conventions
for everything from which side the buttons go on to how large the seam
allowances should be. I can't imagine that there would have -- could have
-- been such formality in medieval practice. Certain techniques were
clearly prized (e.g. small even stitches) and certain approaches were
clearly more workable from a practical aspect (e.g. buttonholes should be
placed perpendicular to the fabric edge). But in any case where there is
more than one workable approach (e.g. seam finishes), you can reasonably
expect more than one approach to have been used.

So, maybe some seamstresses found it useful to work a little extra fabric
invisibly into their sleeve caps. And others probably did not. Because a
fit-it-on-the-body approach makes it easy to do the latter without much
trouble, I would seriously doubt that intentional ease was anything near a
standard practice.

And of course that's just my own guess!

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 01:43:40 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 21 Jan 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> My experience, in working up reproductions of garments of this type,
> is that you don't have any ease or gathering and they fit perfectly
> anyway.  The shallower S-curve at the top of the sleeve means that the
> "undistorted" position for the sleeve (i.e. the one it would assume
> under zero gravity) is with the sleeves much more elevated towards the
> horizontal than for a modern cap sleeve.

This idea of the elevated "undistorted" position conforms to my own sense,
both from practical experience and from looking at images of extant
garments. Heather, you've seen a lot more than I have of the latter, so I
have a related question for you. Can you tell us whether the "undistorted"
position tends to place those elevated arms forward to some degree, rather
than straight out to the sides?

What I've found in practice is that if I'm going to fit fabric closely to
some area of the body, I need to move that body part to the mid-position
of its typical range of motion. For instance, if I want to do a long
fitted sleeve, I bend the arm halfway between fully flexed and completely
straight. If I fit to that position, there is room in the elbow for the
arm to both flex completely and straighten completely. (If I fit the
fabric to a straight arm, there is not enough room to bend it fully; if I
fit to a fully bent arm, then straightening is difficult.)

Elevating the arm near to the horizontal, as you describe, follows the
same logic for the shoulder, and I've found in practice that fitting to
that default position works well in allowing for range of arm motion both
up and down.

So I would expect also for the default position to place the arms extended
forward to some degree, not straight out to the sides. The range of motion
on that plane goes from hugging yourself (at one extreme) to throwing your
arms back (at the other extreme). But a person's arms don't really bend
very far back; the extreme is only barely behind holding your arms
straight out to the sides. I find that if I fit someone with their arms
straight out to the sides, I don't get enough fabric across the back of
the shoulder to allow for full movement to the front. I have better luck
with a default position of the arms elevated not quite to horizontal, and
forward somewhat but not quite straight ahead. That means the height of
the sleeve cap shifts back a bit from the top of the shoulder, placing the
most fabric where the back of the shoulder will expand when you hug
yourself. The deepest dip of the curve is at the opposite point of the
circle, at the lower front armpit, forward of the side seam, which happens
to be the point on the circle that needs the least degree of stretch
during natural arm movement.

I would surmise this placement of the high and low points of the sleeve
curve is what is going on with the Greenland gowns, but Norlund's writeup
leaves out the crucial issue of how the sleeve is placed within the
armhole, i.e. the degree of rotation. The most he gave us was the clue
that the gussets were in back, but there's still a lot of room for
variation on that.

> The further you drop your arms/cylinder towards the vertical, the 
> more elongated your elliptical cross-section will be, and the longer 
> your stitch-path will become ... except that now the top end of your 
> hypothetical sleeve intersects the plane of your garment somewhere 
> over your head.  So instead you take the upper part of the 
> sleeve-cross-section-ellipse and crumple it down onto your actual 
> shoulder, i.e., gather or ease the top of the sleeve.

For an interesting alternative approach based on the default position of
the vertical arm, in which the arm-cylinder is parallel to the body plane,
check out the cut of Romulan clothes in Star Trek (Next Gen and DS9). I
was always impressed at how the costume designer came up with a logical
shoulder construction that was quite distinct from standard European cut,
and IIRC, it appears in all the Romulan clothing, as though it were the
standard technique in that culture. This cut helps define the overall
"boxy" feel of Romulan style.

--Robin

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin for gloves
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:49:12 -0800
Status: RO


>Tandy's leather used to cary this stuff in their stores.  Look in their 
>catalog.  (I'd actually look for that 'skiver' stuff, used for 
>linings.)  I'd get 2 square feet or slightly more, and that would be 
>enough for my big hands.  Get 3 just to be sure, and allow for things like 
>cuffs.



>Does anyone know of a source for real kid (young goat, not child) for
>glovemaking?  And can anyone tell me how much I'd need, maximum, for a
>pair of gloves for unknown hands?
>
>The kid is being purchased, assuming I can find a source, as a prize for
>an SCA glovemaking competition.


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 07:32:44 -0000
Status: RO

On 21 Jan 2002 at 10:49, Brenna Sharp wrote:

> >    From: "jadetenshi" <hotaru613@aol.com>
> > Subject: period knitting patterns
> >
> > To the knitters of the group or anyone who would know 
> about this...
> >
> > Does anyone know of any period knitting patterns I 
> find, or what key
> > words to look under, or what kind of knitted 
> garment/item is
> > acceptable at the time.
> -Lori Irwin

HI Lori,

I'm not sure what period you're working with, but I'd recommend a book called "A History 
of Hand Knitting" by Richard Rutt. Published by Batsford, ISBN 0-7134-5118-1

It includes what he says is the oldest extant knitting pattern, from 1655, for a pair of hose.

And the rest of the book is very, very good! There's lots of knitting earlier than that, much 
of it beautiful, and a great overview of the whole subject. Just no patterns.



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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 07:32:44 -0000
Status: RO

On 21 Jan 2002 at 10:49, Brenna Sharp wrote:

> >    From: "jadetenshi" <hotaru613@aol.com>
> > Subject: period knitting patterns
> >
> > To the knitters of the group or anyone who would know 
> about this...
> >
> > Does anyone know of any period knitting patterns I 
> find, or what key
> > words to look under, or what kind of knitted 
> garment/item is
> > acceptable at the time.
> -Lori Irwin

HI Lori,

I'm not sure what period you're working with, but I'd recommend a book called "A History 
of Hand Knitting" by Richard Rutt. Published by Batsford, ISBN 0-7134-5118-1

It includes what he says is the oldest extant knitting pattern, from 1655, for a pair of hose.

And the rest of the book is very, very good! There's lots of knitting earlier than that, much 
of it beautiful, and a great overview of the whole subject. Just no patterns.



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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 01:28:49 -0800
Status: RO



>Jennifer,
>
>	What do your bolt racks look like?  I am about to get my sewing room
>back-the one I had specially made with lots of florescent light in 
>"natural"
>bulbs, and 8 electrical outlets, all on their own big circuit!  I have
>boxes, chests, and baskets of fabric and I can't use the floor to ceiling
>2x6 with 3/4" doweling in between to hang fabric from in this room, so I'd
>be fascinated to see how others solve the problem of having their fabric
>visible, easily accessible and up out of the way.
>
>Regina Romsey
>
>

Andrew (a man with the knack for making things with wood, like my rope bed 
for events) just measured the back wall of my two-car-tandem garage and 
built me 15" wide shelves the length of the wall and 36" apart.  It gives me 
two full length (12') shelves for 60" fabric bolts and one on top for 45" 
bolts.  He also mounted it to the studs in my wall so I never have to worry 
about tipping.

Shop is kind of glorified for where I work, but I've sealed off my side from 
my husband's with plastic sheeting and added a heater.  I have my two 
working machines on old desks and my mother's dining table to cut on.  But I 
used to use a corner of my bedroom, so I'm thrilled to death to have room to 
work and not have to cut things out on my knees in the livingroom anymore!!! 
  grins

Jennifer

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dorothy Dodderidge's Tomb Effigy
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:45:42 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Kate

Living spitting distance from St Albans Abbey, I can
check up on this but it doesn't ring a bell at the
moment.  If anyone want a picture of it I can easilt
go and take on.  Just let me know.

Rachel

 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: >
This style of effigy (leaning on one elbow) seems to
> have been a fashion at the time. There's one
> illustrated in the Cunnington 17th century book
> (possibly the Exeter one? - book not to hand). When
> I saw a similar effigy in Ludlow parish church
> (Shropshire), I thought "oh, it's the one in the
> book" but it isn't, she's on the other elbow! I
> think there's also one in St. Albans Abbey.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 03:58:16 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
[...] 
> What I've found in practice is that if I'm going to fit fabric closely to
> some area of the body, I need to move that body part to the mid-position
> of its typical range of motion. For instance, if I want to do a long
> fitted sleeve, I bend the arm halfway between fully flexed and completely
> straight. If I fit to that position, there is room in the elbow for the
> arm to both flex completely and straighten completely. (If I fit the
> fabric to a straight arm, there is not enough room to bend it fully; if I
> fit to a fully bent arm, then straightening is difficult.)

Okay, now you've got me curious.  Are all these sleeves cut in one
piece?  Medieval is _not_ my period, so I'm thinking now.  I know
that at least from the Roccoco period down to victorian times, it
was sometimes the custom to cut the sleeve in two pieces, with a 
seam at the top of the arm, and one on the bottom.  The whole sleeve
had a slightly curved shaped, instead of being cylindrical.  The top
seam of the sleeve was often rotated a little forward or back to give
the sleeve the right amount of ease.  How early did this technique
start?  I still feel that a two piece sleeve, curved or not, sometimes
fits much better than a one piece one.  But I really, really hate modern
set-in sleeves, where there is often entirely too much ease at the 
sleeve cap.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sizes
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:03:10 +0000 (GMT)
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> My 12 year old daughter hasn't grown taller yet but has started to
> fill out in the waist.  She is just a bit chubby.  I can't find
> jeans hardly for her.  The girls are to small and the misses/adults
> have hips which she doesn't yet. 

Then buy her boys/mens ones instead.....  they'll have the wider 
sizes without the hips.

Teddy


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANOTHER farthingale question
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:07:33 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >What I need to do however, is sort out some sort of quick and easy
> >pattern for a farthingale that will fit a seven to ten year old.
> >
> 
> The easiest way to do this is to make a gored skirt.  For a small
> girl, you can probably get away with a two-gore, front and back,
> cutting it from 45" fabric, but you can make more gores is you like. 
> If you want to be more accurate you can make straight front and back
> pieces and give them triagular side gores a la the Alcega pattern. 
> Make sure you have at least 6-12" or so ease at the waist, so you can
> gather it to a waist band, or use a drawstring, and adjust it as she
> gets bigger and still have some gathering for the proper line.  You'll
> want to add about 4" extra length for the spring out from waist to
> hem, in addition to those grow tucks.  

Thanks, Margo.

I haven't got the tucks or boning in yet but I cut out a roughly Alcega-
patterned version and plan to run with that (it has to be finished 
A.S.A.P as I leave for the event on Thursday morning and i haven't 
finish *my* outfit yet (and it's MY Coronation!!!)

Teddy
(about to to try cramming 3 days of sewing into a day.....!)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Clogs...OT.
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:10:18 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Henk,

>   ROTFL Teddy!!! You made my day! I love Victoria Wood, especially the
> 'Dinner Ladies' and old 'Acorn Antiques' re-runs. They have me in 
> stitches. Glad to find a colleague in this, as overhere my wife finds
> them mildly funny (and hard to understand...) and I have heard of
> no-one else in Nederland who likes her. Am I abnormal? Or what?
> 
> Incidentally: I like the Alan Bennett monologues as well as I do old
> Stanley Holloway rants and Spike Milligan and the Goons. Oh well... I
> must be peculiar.

I don't think so. In addition to the Victoria Wood tapes, I have Goon 
Shows and Joyce Grenfell recordings kept by the casette player in 
my sewing room.

Teddy
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:19:26 +0000
Status: RO

Reminds me of the time I was in a group who portrayed 18th cent. redcoats, using borrowed film costumes. On one occasion some non-reenactors had been lent uniforms and drafted in to act as casualties. As I passed one lying on the ground I swear he had his breeches on back to front! 


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> lindo@radix.net 01/21/02 11:39pm >>>
At 09:43 AM 01/22/2002 +1100, you wrote:
>Hmm I once saw a re-enactment of the fate of the Russain royal family in
>which the costumer had put the daughters into corsets upside-down (with the
>stocking clips jutting towards thier collars),
>
>-C.

>(snort)  That's too funny!  What did he think the clips were for???



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Subject: [h-cost] Foot shape study
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:22:41 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On another list, someone just referred to a study that found that people
of Celtic and Anglo-Saxon descent have different foot shapes.

Can anyone recall that study, and perhaps either tell me the results, or
point me to a copy online?

Thanks,
Mara


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANOTHER farthingale question
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:23:03 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Why not make it as is for her current height, with the ability to add
> another hoop and its associated fabric on the bottom each time as she
> grows?  So when she is 16, her original farthingale will be the top
> half of her latest one?  Would that work, geometrically?

That'd involve maths, wouldn't it?  I steer well clear of anything 
involving maths!

Teddy
(an extra year at school to scrape-through with a pass on  his 
maths exam....)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seriously OT: British Food
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:36:09 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> Teddy, I believe the floor is yours-
> Grin,
> Lady G

Then I'll give it a quick mop over and keep well out of the way of 
those who know what they're doing in the food department.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, Nearly-King of the Far-Isles, part-time Knave, Creature of
air and darkness, and Hairdresser of Death apparently!)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] seriously OT British
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:59:35 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I hope you are joking.  British food is wonderful, and
> there is more to it than grease and fat!  

But the stuff with the grease and fat tastes far better than the stuff 
without...

> Saying that one dish from a whole country is like coneming Germany
> for having an unhealthy facination with Worst, or the French with
> frogs legs. 

French bread - dreadful stuff - either it taaste's like cake or it's all 
crust and no inner.   Neither are any good for spreading Marmite 
on....

Teddy
(so finicky about food that someone's written a book about it)
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Subject: [h-cost] Sleeves
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:26:32 -0700
Status: RO

The very nature of draping add the right amount of wearing ease to a 
garment, which must be calculated and estimated when flat-drafting.

Personally, setting a high-cap sleeve, I don't use any sort of easing 
stitches; on wools, there can be nearly 3" of extra length in the sleeve cap 
before "puckers" will happen; linens and cottons do better with a bit less 
extra.  I use careful pinning to distribute the "fullness" (which isn't 
really "full) exactly where it's needed, then after the sleeve is draped and 
removed, the seam line is steamed and "shrunk" a bit to fit smoothly.  Then 
it's just a simple matter of stitching the seam.

It's interesting to me that early sleeves were rotated forward in the 
armscye that way; it's still the practice in the 1860's, and it makes it 
very easy to get a nice range of motion.  I hadn't realized that method had 
been used so much before.  (Ah, the things we learn, lurking!)

Regards,
Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Plaid for romans?
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:45:07 -0500
Status: RO


A friend has suddenly decided that she wants to do Roman -- properly.  Not 
just a "ohmygodIneedgarbquick!" outfit.  I've pointed her to websites, 
books, etc, and she's off to a good start.  But.... one question that I 
can't answer and so am posting here.

-----
Okay, I have absolutely no documentation for this, nor can I find any,
not that I am trying to be a period freak. I just want to make sure I am
in the realm of possibility before I buy fabric. Do you know if the
Roman's have patterned fabric aside from stripes (checks, perhaps)?
-----

Does anyone know -- did Romans use anything besides stripes and solids?
  Parsla


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Toddler Tunics
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:06:52 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> Yes they did, but several SCA friends I know with little boys refuse
> to dress them in "dresses" and make them wear little tunics and pants.
>  My son, now almost 3, will be getting pants for his third birthday,
> as he is now working on potty training.

A friend's son (who must be about 14 now) came to events in skirts 
until he was around four or five and "old enough" to have trunk-hose 
and doublets.... His outgrwn stuff was used by his little sister 
(including his first skirted doublet which had anels of contrasting 
fabric added like guards around the bottom to make them full-length 
skirts on her...<g>)

I've not really seen him since they moved away when he was 
seven, but I don't think it's done him any harm to be properly 
dressed for events as a toddler.  He's coming to my coronation at 
the weekend, and I'm really looking forward to seeing what sort of a 
teenagers he and his sister have become.

Teddy

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Subject: [h-cost] Reed Boning
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:28:10 -0500
Status: RO

I've just found a great source for reed boning.  www.granndgarb.com 
has several sorts of reed (sizes/shapes) and I ordered the 1/4" flat 
oval reed (780 ft for $7.80US) -- and it's arrived today.  The entire 
bundle weighs less than the steel needed to properly bone a single 
Elizabethan corset... *lol*  It's only a  little less stiff than the 
spring steel I'm accustomed to using (1/4" spring steel bones)...
It's not nearly as brittle as I would have expected it to be, 
either.  It's less than 1/8" thick -- about 1.5/16ths (awful 
fraction, I know), and bends well in either direction without damage. 

Just thought I'd share! =)





Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 22 13:40:34 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Edwardian corsets (was: sillly corset tale)
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:50:13 -0800
Status: RO

Hi,
I have the past patterns one, but didn't use it when I went to make my
edwardian corset.  If you look at the instructions & cover, they have the
boning running the wrong way.  the one I used is from  Victoria Lousie,
Mercer, the  P1999001 - 1901-1907 Edwardian Corset.  And it worked well.

Susan

>
> --- Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net> wrote:
> > I've made up a couple
> > of Victorian corsets
> > from the Laughing Moon pattern, but hadn't seen any
> > Edwardian (ca.
> > 1900-1910) corset patterns for sale.
> > -- Mara
> >
>
>
> Huh.  I have (but have not yet made up, so don't ask)
> the Past Patterns #106 "Edwardian Corset."  The liner
> notes, which I just skimmed through again, make a few
> references to an "original" that they apparently based
> the pattern on, but don't seem to specifically date
> that original.  The woman in the cover picture (a
> period-looking line drawing) has that lovely Grecian
> bend.  I bought this pattern intending it to be the
> foundation for a c. 1905 gown (not made yet, either).
> I got it from Amazon D.G., but I expect you could get
> it elsewhere as well.
>
> -Angela
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 22 14:53:34 2002
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:20:52 -0600
Status: RO

I have a questions regarding the knitting madonna's and other representations of knitting prior to 1600, when knitting in the round, how many needles were they using?  

Seems Americans use four needles (earliest ref is a 1943 knitting book), Europeans use five and I wonder when this split happened.

Alexandria
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:48:21 -0000
Status: RO

On 22 Jan 2002 at 14:20, Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> I have a questions regarding the knitting madonna's and other
> representations of knitting prior to 1600, when knitting in the round,
> how many needles were they using?  
> 
> Seems Americans use four needles (earliest ref is a 1943 knitting
> book), Europeans use five and I wonder when this split happened.

RIchard Rutt's book says:
"The pictures show that knitting was done in the round on four needles (though some of 
them could be interpreted as showing five-needle knitting)"

Well, actually he says a great deal more than that, but the overall theme seems to be that 
the knitting madonnas of the fourteenth century were portrayed as usually using four, but 
sometimes five needles: one is mentioned as possibly using three (which sounds very 
awkward to me). He also mentions a picture from 1492 where five needles are being used. 
And there are far too many where the number of needles is very uncertain :(


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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:46:16 EST
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--part1_10e.b26b0b6.297f37a8_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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In a message dated 1/22/2002 2:16:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
costumer@dendarii.org writes:


> I have the past patterns one, but didn't use it when I went to make my
> edwardian corset.  

A wise decision. I hate that pattern. It is not the pattern depicted on the 
envelope. I bought it [expecting the cover illustration] and never used it. I 
ended up taking a pattern from a real corset of the period a friend had that 
DID look like the illustration. It was complicated.

I have another Edwardian corset pattern that is easy as pie. It too is taken 
from an actual corset I found in the bottom of a trunk at a yard sale. It is 
in 4 pieces [each side] and lightly boned. Obviously not intended for evening 
wear but rather day wear or even sports wear. Gives one the shape, however. I 
put a bone between each existing bone to give it more.....er....bones.

I'll send anyone a copy of it ....if I can find the thing. I remember lending 
the pattern to someone back during the "Titanic" craze but don't remember 
getting it back. I still have the corset though...somewhere in the bottom of 
a box. I just don't do that much Edwardian.

Seriously....let me find it and I'll make copies....until it gets to be too 
much trouble that is.

--part1_10e.b26b0b6.297f37a8_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/22/2002 2:16:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, costumer@dendarii.org writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have the past patterns one, but didn't use it when I went to make my
<BR>edwardian corset. &nbsp;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>A wise decision. I hate that pattern. It is not the pattern depicted on the envelope. I bought it [expecting the cover illustration] and never used it. I ended up taking a pattern from a real corset of the period a friend had that DID look like the illustration. It was complicated.
<BR>
<BR>I have another Edwardian corset pattern that is easy as pie. It too is taken from an actual corset I found in the bottom of a trunk at a yard sale. It is in 4 pieces [each side] and lightly boned. Obviously not intended for evening wear but rather day wear or even sports wear. Gives one the shape, however. I put a bone between each existing bone to give it more.....er....bones.
<BR>
<BR>I'll send anyone a copy of it ....if I can find the thing. I remember lending the pattern to someone back during the "Titanic" craze but don't remember getting it back. I still have the corset though...somewhere in the bottom of a box. I just don't do that much Edwardian.
<BR>
<BR>Seriously....let me find it and I'll make copies....until it gets to be too much trouble that is.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_10e.b26b0b6.297f37a8_boundary--
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:14:57 -0800
Status: RO

Susan writes, in a message sent 10:50 AM 1/22/02 -0800:
>Hi,
>I have the past patterns one, but didn't use it when I went to make my
>edwardian corset.  If you look at the instructions & cover, they have the
>boning running the wrong way.  the one I used is from  Victoria Lousie,
>Mercer, the  P1999001 - 1901-1907 Edwardian Corset.  And it worked well.

I made one from Norah Waugh's 'Corsets and Crinolines', and it needed 
almost no fitting on me.


Kayta
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/----\   /---\))

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Subject: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:14:55 -0500
Status: RO

Here is the article that the Associated Press interviewed me for.  I am
quoted twice in the article, so look near the middle and near the end. The
article should show up in your newspaper within the next two weeks in the
fashion section. It went out on the AP wire on Jan. 21 to news sources
around the world. Everyone please call your newspaper and ask them to run
the article.  If they do please save me a the entire page of the newspaper.
I am making a large scrapbook of all the newspapers that run the article.
Thanks, Penny

 Here is the article:

SPECIAL EDITION
Fashion: Patriotic and Pretty
AP Photos NY700, NY701
By FRANCINE PARNES=
For AP Special Edition=

Patriotic red, white and blue clothing may be popular stateside in the
new war era, but American women during World War II took their style cues
from glamorous Hollywood. Besides yearning to look pretty, many felt that
beauty was their duty.

Ilene Beckerman, author of "Love, Loss and What I Wore" (Algonquin,
1995), a memoir of her wardrobe through the decades, remembers the era.

"Young women tried to look glamorous during the war years, even though
there were so few men around. Maybe it was because women were supposed to
keep the home fires burning. Maybe it was because they didn't want to forget
romance. The smallest thing could lift your spirits, like high heels."

Born in 1935, Beckerman was too young for pumps but coveted them
nonetheless.

"I always wanted to have a pink fluffy bed jacket like Claudette Colbert
would wear in the movies," says Beckerman, from Hampton, N.J. "And fancy
house slippers with high heels and pompoms in the front, preferably in pink
also."

Girls grew up fast. "Even my 15-year-old sister _ her real name was
Blossom but everybody called her Tootsie _ tried to be glamorous," says
Beckerman, who was raised in Manhattan. "She had gold high-heeled platforms
with ankle straps like Ann Sheridan would wear in the movies. My sister
woulddo her hair in pompadours and put on her gold shoes and try to get into
a
USO Canteen on 65th Street to give coffee and doughnuts to soldiers and
sailors,"  Beckerman says. "She never made it because you had to be 18."

"It was not as if glamour went out the window during World War II," says
Harold Koda, curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of
Art in Manhattan. "Women felt it was a social responsibility to continue to
make an effort in how they dressed, as inspiration for the men overseas. It
was very much like after the Sept. 11 attacks when the mayor of New York
City and the governor of New York stated that one of the more heroic acts
for the
general population was to carry on with
a stiff upper lip, as if things were going on as usual when in fact we were
in crisis. In the '40s, it was patriotic and a kind of psychological
resistance, saying life goes on."

It was not surprising that Hollywood glamour pervaded the fashion
forefront, says Penny E. Dunlap Ladnier, owner of
http://www.costumegallery.com, an instructional fashion Web site.

"When Paris was bombed in 1940, the fashion design houses shut down.
Without the fashion designers to tell women what to wear, women turned to
movie stars to influence their fashions," says Ladnier of Chesterfield, Va.
"A line of sewing patterns called Hollywood Patterns was sold
throughout the 1940s. Women wanted to start wearing exactly what the stars
wore."

Still, this was the era of substitute materials, when fabric rationing
led to shorter and narrower skirts.

"Before World War II, nylons cost a little over $1," says Beckerman.
"During the war, they cost $20 on the black market. Instead of real
stockings, my mother, my older sister and most of the women in the city who
cared about how they looked used leg makeup, a liquid that came in a small
bottle. They spent lots of time putting it on, being careful not to get any
on the bedspread. Their hands got all yucky and they had to stay still until
their legs dried. Then they'd take a brown eyebrow pencil and make a seam up
the back, trying to get it as straight as possible. My mother could only
afford Woolworth's leg makeup. The color was so orange it didn't fool
anyone." Rain did not help matters.

With rationing, hats became smaller; sometimes even whimsical."They
became more like ornaments than full hats," says Koda. "It was as if the
garnish of the hat became the hat itself."

Rationing also affected wool, important for the military, says Koda.

"The need to conserve fabric provoked design innovations and
constructions. Designers began to explore interesting seaming and piecing,
rather than relying on heavy fabric," says Koda. "Applique and patch pockets
were precluded because there was a general rule of thumb, you did not put
fabric on fabric because that was wasteful. And when zippers and buttons
were rationed, (designer) Claire McCardell used old brass shoe hooks as
closures.
They became a design feature."

For many, fashion came through garments that had multiple uses.

Pamela Smith, Ridgewood, N.J.-based author of "The Official Price Guide
to Vintage Fashion and Fabrics" (House of Collectibles, $17 paperback),
cites one innovative dress by McCardell. "Designed in 1942 as an all-purpose
house
dress, it was immensely popular, in topstitched denim with large pockets,
wrap front, and attached oven mitt," she says.

Despite all the restrictions, wedding gowns were readily available in
stores, often in rayon crepe-backed satin, the most popular bridal fabric,
says Nancy Eaton in Nokomis, Fla., next to Venice.

"Even materials like cotton eyelet were used toward the mid-1940s," says
Eaton, author of "Your Vintage Wedding" (HarperCollins, $26.95 hardcover).
"But because so many wartime weddings were hastily produced affairs arranged
on short notice _ for example, right before the groom
was shipped overseas, or while he was on furlough _ quite a few brides opted
for informal weddings, wearing dressy suits or dresses instead of formal
gowns," she says. "If I had to pick one quintessential image of a World War
II-era wedding, it would show a bride in a suit and a groom in uniform."

With factory work came trousers for women. "Working women started
wearing coveralls and pants to work for safety reasons," says Ladnier. "Many
women
were working with heavy machinery, and climbing in and out of spaces, making
dresses impractical. Women decided that they liked
wearing pants and started wearing them outside of work situations."

Again Hollywood led the way. "Marlene Dietrich was often pictured
wearing slacks in movie books like Photoplay and Modern Screen but they only
showed
her from the front," says Beckerman. "My mother always gave women who wore
pants in the street the once-over. She'd say, 'Don't those women know what
they look like from the back?' Very few women looked like Marlene from any
angle."

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:39:31 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 1/22/02 1:03:04 PM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> 

I am just going to make her some.  For awhile I did by the both the same 
brands, my son and daughter, so that he could where them after she out grew 
them.  The styles are different in the boys stuff now.  There are some she 
might wear but some our way out there styles.  It is just easier to make them.
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/22/02 1:03:04 PM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Then buy her boys/mens ones instead</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I am just going to make her some. &nbsp;For awhile I did by the both the same brands, my son and daughter, so that he could where them after she out grew them. &nbsp;The styles are different in the boys stuff now. &nbsp;There are some she might wear but some our way out there styles. &nbsp;It is just easier to make them.
<BR>Kelly
<BR>m311@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Viking tunic pattern from Haithabu
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:29:26 +0000
Status: RO

Dear list,

I am forwarding this query from a friend.  I hope some of you find it 
interesting and can maybe shed some light on these very odd-looking 
finds.

(For those not so immersed in this period, Haithabu may be more familiar 
as Hederby)

Many thanks,

JEan


I and a friend in Australia have beenresearching some of the textile 
(wool) finds from Haithabu with the view to making a tunic based on 
them. These finds were published by Inga Hägg (I. Hägg, Die Textilfunde 
aus dem Hafen von Haithabu. Berichte über dieAusgrabungen in Haithabu, 
Bericht 20. Neumünster: Karl Wachholz Verlag, 1984.) with not too much 
info on how and why the fragments were integrated into a costume. There 
is a tunic on a dummy at the Wikinger Museum Haithabu that is based on 
the finds. The finds are from several different pieces of fabric and so 
may not of been in the same tunic, in fact probably not.

These finds have some very interesting features (eg slits in the gores to reach
your pouch, curved sholder/arm cutouts) but one of the most curious is Hägg
saying that there is a horizontal seam around the waist. Other examples of this
in this time period are exceedingly rare (the Viborg tunic has a false seam
around the front and back). Unfortunately Hägg doesn't elaborate on why she
believes there to be this seam although it is important to note that both sholder
pieces (one front and one back origionally joined with a sholder seam) have the
warp horizontal. This in itself is rather odd.

So my questions are;

- Has anyone got any references to other tunics (up to ~13th cent) that have
horizontal waist seams?

- If there is no waist seam then there must be single pieces hanging from the
sholder to the hem front and back (the gores had their warps approx. vertical as
is usual). Has anyone any ideas on whether this is likely and what problems
may be encounted in doing this?

As far was we see there is only a couple of alternatives
1. Hägg wrongly identified the warp threads in the fragments (I wouldn't think
this is very likely).
2. The front and back hung in one piece from sholder to hem with the warp
horizontal (if so, a peice of fabric about 90cm wide would be needed). Why on
earth would someone make it like that?
3. That due to limitations in the amount of fabric available (or some other
reason), the upper and lower portions of the tunic were different with the two
being joined by a waist seam.

Your views and thoughts on these questions and alternatives would be greatly
appreciated. You can contact me directly at graemenott@hotmail.com

Cheers,
Graeme




-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:44:25 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Great article, Penny!  And nice to see your quotes
there as well.


Megan
--- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> Here is the article that the Associated Press
> interviewed me for.  I am
> quoted twice in the article, so look near the middle
> and near the end. 

=====
Megan McConnell
ICQ:  57164109

"When I'm old, I don't want them to say of me, "She's  so charming." I want them to say, "Be careful, I think she's armed."    -G. Stoddart

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:35:09 -0800
Status: RO

Hello all!
I am overwhelmed by your kind conserns about my situation. It is so kind
of you all to write all those good thoaghts MANY THANKS :-)
Well i wont give up doing it, it is just i wont do it cheap for others
anymore! I know that there will be much less to do this way, but then i
have thoaght that i would start to make historical fashion dolls. Give
the costumes real miniature lace and embroidery and then try to sell it
on ebay.
Another thing i could do is making lace hankerchiefs and sell them on
ebay. Tere i can put a minimum bit to it and be sure to get a reasonable
price.

	Barjne,  I think you will find a market.  I remember that my going away
gift to myself when I left Germany was 1 yard of antique handmade gold lace.
It's about 6" wide and I found a whole packet of it in Wuertzburg along with
narrower (cheaper too) versions.  I paid $100 for it and was very happy.
I'm not even a lace addict!

Regina Romsey


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Subject: [h-cost] Roman plaid
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:25:50 EST
Status: RO

<<Okay, I have absolutely no documentation for this, nor can I find any,
not that I am trying to be a period freak. I just want to make sure I am
in the realm of possibility before I buy fabric. Do you know if the
Roman's have patterned fabric aside from stripes (checks, perhaps)?>>

The Etruscans, who predated the Romans, and from whom the Romans borrowed 
many clothing ideas were fond of plaid, as were the "Barbarian" tribes of the 
time.  It is very conceivable that the Romans borrowed the idea, like most of 
their other ones from those they conquered.  However, to my knowledge there 
is no research available which shows a Roman figure in plaid.  Cheryl Odom

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:05:25 -0600
Status: RO

Now that you all have started talking about this, I remember my mother 
making "plumb pudding".
Every Christmas she would put the basic "cake makings" in a huge bowl, 
then add candied fruit,
 and molasses.  I especially remember her yelling at me for dipping my 
finger in the batter.
She would put it in coffee cans (not the huge ones)  and cover them with 
aluminum foil then
put them in a huge retangular steamer.  I think she could get like 6 or 
8 in that thing.  The only
thing I could never figure out is why it was called "Plumb" pudding, 
when there where no
plumbs in it. *L*

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/20/02 1:11:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> LalahTT@aol.com writes:
>
>
>> Sounds a lot like the plum pudding my family always has for 
>> Christmas.  But ours isn't cooked in a mold.  It is packed into 
>> cheese cloth and suspended in a steamer and steamed for hours.  It 
>> ends up being pretty much of a round shape and is wonderful with a 
>> hard sauce made with confectioners sugar, butter and rum.  
>
>
>
> Steamed puddings can be cooked in a mold or wrapped in fabric.  
> Special pudding molds have lids, or you can improvise one with a can 
> and foil for a lid.
> Ann Wass



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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:38:39 -0800
Status: RO

The master retires this summer.
http://www.cnn.com/2002/WORLD/europe/01/22/yves.farewell/index.html

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 22 22:10:46 2002
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:46:05 -0600
Status: RO

Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
>
> it was sometimes the custom to cut the sleeve in two pieces, with a
> seam at the top of the arm, and one on the bottom.  The whole sleeve
> had a slightly curved shaped, instead of being cylindrical.  The top
> seam of the sleeve was often rotated a little forward or back to give
> the sleeve the right amount of ease.  How early did this technique
> start? 

At least as early as the sixteenth century.  You can see several doublet
sleeves along these lines in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion
1560-1620.  Most of them are dated 1600-1615, but if they were doing it
in 1600, they were probably doing it in 1599 as well.  There's also the
kirtle dated 1570-80 that has a two-piece sleeve.

Melanie Schuessler
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman plaid
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:50:04 +1100
Status: RO

I haven't seen any either Cheryl. I have, however, seen textile pieces that
have woven checks of different spun directions, but the same colour done as
a striped/checked pattern, so it would give a change in
light-reflectiveness(?).

Parsla, These types of stripes are the only ones I've seen that are
throughout the fabric. The others are decorative stripes vertically on the
front, or horizontally near the hem, rather than coloured stripes through
the garment. There are sometimes gold thread woven as a dociration through
the whole fabric, but these would only be small amounts of thread every now
and then, rather than 1:1 stripes.

The books I use for Roman textiles are Vol III of the Vindolanda Research
reports (north of England) and the NESAT reports (there's an article in
NESAT6 - Textiles in European Archaeology of French finds - only 1 checked
piece in Gallic-France found!). I haven't got any resources from Rome
itself, but these people would be the more likely to have more checked-style
cloth. Maybe the fashion-conscious thought that the checks were 'sooo
rustic'.

Also, the tabby weave wasn't the only weave used by the Romans. They used
patterned tabby, basket-weave pattern, all sorts of twills - straight,
diamond, chevron,herringbone in varying combinations - 2/2; 3/3; 2/1 etc
etc.

A good website is http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing.html for men's
clothing and http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing2.html for women's.

One good thing about Roman clothing - it's dead easy to make.

BTW: For women's clothing if it's to be worn in the heat - use natural cloth
only - any polyester type content will make the wearer feel like they're in
a sauna!

Glenda.

----- Original Message -----
From: <Cheryldee@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 1:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Roman plaid


> <<Okay, I have absolutely no documentation for this, nor can I find any,
> not that I am trying to be a period freak. I just want to make sure I am
> in the realm of possibility before I buy fabric. Do you know if the
> Roman's have patterned fabric aside from stripes (checks, perhaps)?>>
>
> The Etruscans, who predated the Romans, and from whom the Romans borrowed
> many clothing ideas were fond of plaid, as were the "Barbarian" tribes of
the
> time.  It is very conceivable that the Romans borrowed the idea, like most
of
> their other ones from those they conquered.  However, to my knowledge
there
> is no research available which shows a Roman figure in plaid.  Cheryl Odom
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:24:08 -0500
Status: RO

LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html The first color in the test pick as
your favorite color to wear.  I took the whole test in order of preference
of the colors that I like to wear.  Will Teddy's fan club pick orange
first?????  <<<running and hiding from Teddy>>>

Hmmmm.... seems I am laid back according to the test.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:37:24 -0800
Status: RO

The orange didn't come out very nice on my monitor.  I tried it twice, once
starting with the green, once with the blue.  Interesting, but hitting about the
same level of accuracy as a sun sign horoscope analysis.

Still, I always love a new personality test :)


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 9:24 PM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
>
>
> LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
> http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html The first color in the test pick as
> your favorite color to wear.  I took the whole test in order of preference
> of the colors that I like to wear.  Will Teddy's fan club pick orange
> first?????  <<<running and hiding from Teddy>>>
>
> Hmmmm.... seems I am laid back according to the test.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 23 00:12:13 2002
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@home.com>
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:55:12 -0500
Status: RO

Wow, that's cool!  The music is kinda scary tho.  I kept waiting for Regis
to ask me if that was 'my final answer'.

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va. USA

----- Original Message -----
From: Penny Ladnier

LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html The first color in the test pick as
your favorite color to wear.  I took the whole test in order of preference
of the colors that I like to wear.
Hmmmm.... seems I am laid back according to the test.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 23 00:32:18 2002
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 01:04:07 -0500
Status: RO

The Historic Costume Bulletin Board that has been hosted by Drea's site for
years has moved.  It now has a new home on The Costume Gallery.   Drea has
done a wonderful job for many years maintaining and hosting it from her
site.  My hat is off to this lady. She has done a wonderful job!  We now
have like a joint ownership... Drea is the site administrator (handles the
technical end), and I am the person who keeps up with the posts to make sure
flames wars are put out and keep an eye out for offensive language.  A bar
of soap is next to my keyboard.

If you want to visit the HCBB, we have tried to keep it simple.  All you
have to do is go to the Gallery, www.costumegallery.com , and click on the
link on the top bar.

Again, I thank you, Drea for your many years of service to the costuming
community.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 01:07:17 -0500
Status: RO

So Maggie and Linda.... what did it say about you???  Time to tell all!!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 23 00:47:35 2002
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:18:05 -0700
Status: RO

Oh, how completely weird....they actually "got" me pretty good....except
for the end, when they said I'd be really good Management Material (I'm
about as far from that sort of thing as a person can get, without
working completely by myself).
--Sue (definitely a Teddy Fan, but I picked green first)

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
> http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html The first color in the test pick as
> your favorite color to wear.  I took the whole test in order of preference
> of the colors that I like to wear.  Will Teddy's fan club pick orange
> first?????  <<<running and hiding from Teddy>>>
> 
> Hmmmm.... seems I am laid back according to the test.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:33:15 -0800
Status: RO

LOL, the results are a little bandwidth-greedy, and it doesn't use simple names
or numbers or titles or categories. I wish I could tell you I'm a Winter, or a
UCSB, or a Lawful Good (with conditions) but they haven't given us those kind of
options.

My choices start with green-blue-red (or blue-green-red) and end with tawney
(orange) then grey.  The middle is more or less random.  Figure me out at your
will :)


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 10:07 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
>
>
> So Maggie and Linda.... what did it say about you???  Time to tell all!!!!
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: knitting at ren. faires
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:37:51 -0800
Status: RO



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Liz / Cozit
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 6:57 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: knitting at ren. faires
>
>
> From what I found, if you're doing a Faire set in England, before
> about 1550, the
> only knitting you *might* find is the fulled caps... unless you're
> protraying a
> Landsknect follower (they had knit garments earlier).  Toward the end of that
> period you *might* find undertunics for very young children/infants.
>
>
> *g*  I was trying to come up with another character for faire that
> would get me out
> of nobles (even if it will mean my knees will start to dislike me by
> the end of
> faire)... and since it's been a Henry VIII faire for years, kept
> finding my ideas
> trashed  (the one requirement is that I am able to do some sort of
> "finger twiddle"
> on and off during faire... well, than and it has to fit in with the
> Hengrave Hall
> household or w/in the wool business (other than spinster there's not
> much there for
> the first half of the century).

How about ordinary sewing?  One of my favorite tricks is to make up a man's
shirt, by machine, then rip out all the seams.  Now the stitch lines are all
there but more or less invisible to the passer by.  Use steel head pins and you
can sit and sew it back together by hand and look much more practical-ly
occupied than by doing decorative work.  The needle holes may disappear, but
it's remarkably easy to pin and stitch where you have stitched before. :)

You can also get the fellows to bring you their mending.  It's amazing how many
elbows get blown during Battle Pageant or fight circle, especially if their
girlfriends used cotton instead of linen.  Or sew on their buttons like Wendy,
or ...  And then (ah ha) they have to pay you!

This is especially good for campfollowers, but even noble ladies stitched shirts
for their gentlemen!

MaggiRos
who is sometimes Clara Munter, the Soldaten's Freunde



>
> -Elisabeth
>
>
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 23 02:40:52 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Plaid for romans?
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:49:36 -0800
Status: RO

Try asking at Nova Roma www.novaroma.org
I recommend a formal courtesy, when asking as an outsider.  As a group, they do
know a good deal about their chosen era.


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Parsla Liepa
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 8:45 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Plaid for romans?
>
>
>
> A friend has suddenly decided that she wants to do Roman -- properly.  Not
> just a "ohmygodIneedgarbquick!" outfit.  I've pointed her to websites,
> books, etc, and she's off to a good start.  But.... one question that I
> can't answer and so am posting here.
>
> -----
> Okay, I have absolutely no documentation for this, nor can I find any,
> not that I am trying to be a period freak. I just want to make sure I am
> in the realm of possibility before I buy fabric. Do you know if the
> Roman's have patterned fabric aside from stripes (checks, perhaps)?
> -----
>
> Does anyone know -- did Romans use anything besides stripes and solids?
>   Parsla
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Toddler Tunics
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:06:28 -0800
Status: RO

Not too long ago, friends of mine at Faire kept their small children of any sex
(2-18 months) in a shift or leine (Irish shirt).  I'm sure no one thought the
boys were girls because of it, and whoever did were only customers (at Faire) or
passersby anyway. Nobody is saying they have to wait till the boys are 6-7
before putting them in breeches.  Just till they're out of diapers (nappies).
The chief's daughter was about 3 when she put her hands deep into the leine
sleeves, drew them up, and said  "Look! Clan puppets!"  (oh never mind <g>)

If you don't call it a dress, it isn't a dress.  It's just a shirt they can
crawl, toddle and fall down in.  Get over it.  Life will be that much simpler.

Think how much simpler it would be if you put the tiny ones in swaddling bands!
And how popular!

Maggie
~thinking of Cuchulain, who nursed till he could pull the tree, planted at his
birth, out of the ground by the roots.  (Ma, c'n Conner stay for lunch!)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Teddy
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 9:07 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Toddler Tunics
>
>
>
> > Yes they did, but several SCA friends I know with little boys refuse
> > to dress them in "dresses" and make them wear little tunics and pants.
> >  My son, now almost 3, will be getting pants for his third birthday,
> > as he is now working on potty training.
>
> A friend's son (who must be about 14 now) came to events in skirts
> until he was around four or five and "old enough" to have trunk-hose
> and doublets.... His outgrwn stuff was used by his little sister
> (including his first skirted doublet which had anels of contrasting
> fabric added like guards around the bottom to make them full-length
> skirts on her...<g>)
>
> I've not really seen him since they moved away when he was
> seven, but I don't think it's done him any harm to be properly
> dressed for events as a toddler.  He's coming to my coronation at
> the weekend, and I'm really looking forward to seeing what sort of a
> teenagers he and his sister have become.
>
> Teddy
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] [Costume_Closet] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:14:55 -0500
Status: RO

Here is the article that the Associated Press interviewed me for.  I am
quoted twice in the article, so look near the middle and near the end. The
article should show up in your newspaper within the next two weeks in the
fashion section. It went out on the AP wire on Jan. 21 to news sources
around the world. Everyone please call your newspaper and ask them to run
the article.  If they do please save me a the entire page of the newspaper.
I am making a large scrapbook of all the newspapers that run the article.
Thanks, Penny

 Here is the article:

SPECIAL EDITION
Fashion: Patriotic and Pretty
AP Photos NY700, NY701
By FRANCINE PARNES=
For AP Special Edition=

Patriotic red, white and blue clothing may be popular stateside in the
new war era, but American women during World War II took their style cues
from glamorous Hollywood. Besides yearning to look pretty, many felt that
beauty was their duty.

Ilene Beckerman, author of "Love, Loss and What I Wore" (Algonquin,
1995), a memoir of her wardrobe through the decades, remembers the era.

"Young women tried to look glamorous during the war years, even though
there were so few men around. Maybe it was because women were supposed to
keep the home fires burning. Maybe it was because they didn't want to forget
romance. The smallest thing could lift your spirits, like high heels."

Born in 1935, Beckerman was too young for pumps but coveted them
nonetheless.

"I always wanted to have a pink fluffy bed jacket like Claudette Colbert
would wear in the movies," says Beckerman, from Hampton, N.J. "And fancy
house slippers with high heels and pompoms in the front, preferably in pink
also."

Girls grew up fast. "Even my 15-year-old sister _ her real name was
Blossom but everybody called her Tootsie _ tried to be glamorous," says
Beckerman, who was raised in Manhattan. "She had gold high-heeled platforms
with ankle straps like Ann Sheridan would wear in the movies. My sister
woulddo her hair in pompadours and put on her gold shoes and try to get into
a
USO Canteen on 65th Street to give coffee and doughnuts to soldiers and
sailors,"  Beckerman says. "She never made it because you had to be 18."

"It was not as if glamour went out the window during World War II," says
Harold Koda, curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of
Art in Manhattan. "Women felt it was a social responsibility to continue to
make an effort in how they dressed, as inspiration for the men overseas. It
was very much like after the Sept. 11 attacks when the mayor of New York
City and the governor of New York stated that one of the more heroic acts
for the
general population was to carry on with
a stiff upper lip, as if things were going on as usual when in fact we were
in crisis. In the '40s, it was patriotic and a kind of psychological
resistance, saying life goes on."

It was not surprising that Hollywood glamour pervaded the fashion
forefront, says Penny E. Dunlap Ladnier, owner of
http://www.costumegallery.com, an instructional fashion Web site.

"When Paris was bombed in 1940, the fashion design houses shut down.
Without the fashion designers to tell women what to wear, women turned to
movie stars to influence their fashions," says Ladnier of Chesterfield, Va.
"A line of sewing patterns called Hollywood Patterns was sold
throughout the 1940s. Women wanted to start wearing exactly what the stars
wore."

Still, this was the era of substitute materials, when fabric rationing
led to shorter and narrower skirts.

"Before World War II, nylons cost a little over $1," says Beckerman.
"During the war, they cost $20 on the black market. Instead of real
stockings, my mother, my older sister and most of the women in the city who
cared about how they looked used leg makeup, a liquid that came in a small
bottle. They spent lots of time putting it on, being careful not to get any
on the bedspread. Their hands got all yucky and they had to stay still until
their legs dried. Then they'd take a brown eyebrow pencil and make a seam up
the back, trying to get it as straight as possible. My mother could only
afford Woolworth's leg makeup. The color was so orange it didn't fool
anyone." Rain did not help matters.

With rationing, hats became smaller; sometimes even whimsical."They
became more like ornaments than full hats," says Koda. "It was as if the
garnish of the hat became the hat itself."

Rationing also affected wool, important for the military, says Koda.

"The need to conserve fabric provoked design innovations and
constructions. Designers began to explore interesting seaming and piecing,
rather than relying on heavy fabric," says Koda. "Applique and patch pockets
were precluded because there was a general rule of thumb, you did not put
fabric on fabric because that was wasteful. And when zippers and buttons
were rationed, (designer) Claire McCardell used old brass shoe hooks as
closures.
They became a design feature."

For many, fashion came through garments that had multiple uses.

Pamela Smith, Ridgewood, N.J.-based author of "The Official Price Guide
to Vintage Fashion and Fabrics" (House of Collectibles, $17 paperback),
cites one innovative dress by McCardell. "Designed in 1942 as an all-purpose
house
dress, it was immensely popular, in topstitched denim with large pockets,
wrap front, and attached oven mitt," she says.

Despite all the restrictions, wedding gowns were readily available in
stores, often in rayon crepe-backed satin, the most popular bridal fabric,
says Nancy Eaton in Nokomis, Fla., next to Venice.

"Even materials like cotton eyelet were used toward the mid-1940s," says
Eaton, author of "Your Vintage Wedding" (HarperCollins, $26.95 hardcover).
"But because so many wartime weddings were hastily produced affairs arranged
on short notice _ for example, right before the groom
was shipped overseas, or while he was on furlough _ quite a few brides opted
for informal weddings, wearing dressy suits or dresses instead of formal
gowns," she says. "If I had to pick one quintessential image of a World War
II-era wedding, it would show a bride in a suit and a groom in uniform."

With factory work came trousers for women. "Working women started
wearing coveralls and pants to work for safety reasons," says Ladnier. "Many
women
were working with heavy machinery, and climbing in and out of spaces, making
dresses impractical. Women decided that they liked
wearing pants and started wearing them outside of work situations."

Again Hollywood led the way. "Marlene Dietrich was often pictured
wearing slacks in movie books like Photoplay and Modern Screen but they only
showed
her from the front," says Beckerman. "My mother always gave women who wore
pants in the street the once-over. She'd say, 'Don't those women know what
they look like from the back?' Very few women looked like Marlene from any
angle."

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:48:25 -0800
Status: RO

I've been meaning to ask y'all about sleeve calculation for years, and I usually
just forget.  I haven't read all of this thread yet, and it's approaching 1:00am
here (on a work night, oh dear!) so I'm just sving all the pieces.

My basic question is: how do I pattern a sleeve to match the armsceye I just
draped to perfection?  I have a feeling the answer is in this thread, but it's
too late to pursue just now.  I'm just delighted it's come up at last.

And so to bed...


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 11:44 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
>
>


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:20:23 -0800
Status: RO




Maggie Secara


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 3:15 PM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
>
>
> Here is the article that the Associated Press interviewed me for.  I am
> quoted twice in the article, so look near the middle and near the end. The
> article should show up in your newspaper within the next two weeks in the
> fashion section. It went out on the AP wire on Jan. 21 to news sources
> around the world. Everyone please call your newspaper and ask them to run
> the article.  If they do please save me a the entire page of the newspaper.
> I am making a large scrapbook of all the newspapers that run the article.
> Thanks, Penny
>

> Girls grew up fast. "Even my 15-year-old sister _ her real name was
> Blossom but everybody called her Tootsie _

My grandmother's name is Hortense, but her brothers all called her Tootsie. :)
She, through my mother, assures me that "The Sweetheart of Sigma Chi" was
written for her.


MaggiRos
~My Pi Phi girl!/I love you best of all fraternities...


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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] YSL's last couture collection
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:40:29 -0800
Status: RO

How charming, the comments from La Croix (La KWA, darling.  La KWA, says Eddie.
Don't you know anything? (*Absolutely Fabulous*)) and Lagerfeld.

On another hand, I'm a little amused to see Monseigneur complaining that it's
now all about money where it once was about art.  It's often hard for us common
folk to eliminate the money from the aesthetic equation.


MaggiRos
~Mrs 'Arris Goes to Paris


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Cynthia Barnes
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 7:39 PM
> To: H-Costume (E-mail)
> Subject: [h-cost] YSL's last couture collection
>
>
> The master retires this summer.
> http://www.cnn.com/2002/WORLD/europe/01/22/yves.farewell/index.html
>
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 03:55:10 -0500
Status: RO

It is so sad that YSL is retiring, but why do fashion designers always have
to play cut throat in the press.  It doesn't make them look better.

When I was in college, I took classes with both the costume design and the
fashion design students.  The costume design students loved to share ideas
and help one another.  The fashion design students were so scared someone
would steal their brilliant idea of a creation.  Everything was a secret.
So petty.  And the gossip was unreal!  I think that really stunted their
creative growth.  I have also heard the arts & crafts industry is this
scared/secretive group too.  Anyone have experience with the A&C industry?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:38:38 +0000
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We use four in Britain too. I know knitting techniques are slightly different in continental Europe.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> dragonlair@wireweb.net 01/22/02 08:20pm >>>
I have a questions regarding the knitting madonna's and other representations of knitting prior to 1600, when knitting in the round, how many needles were they using?  

Seems Americans use four needles (earliest ref is a 1943 knitting book), Europeans use five and I wonder when this split happened.

Alexandria
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:23:59 +1300
Status: RO

> LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
> http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html The first color in the test pick as
> your favorite color to wear.  I took the whole test in order of preference
> of the colors that I like to wear.  Will Teddy's fan club pick orange
> first?????  <<<running and hiding from Teddy>>>

It was spot on. Exactly where I am at the moment. So much so, I'm using it
in my journal, and going to fill out their little survey. Mind you it is
based on phychological principles isn't it?

michaela

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 05:49:05 -0500
Status: RO

that or fuschia.

: )

-kelly

----- Original Message -----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 12:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test


> LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
> http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html The first color in the test pick as
> your favorite color to wear.  I took the whole test in order of preference
> of the colors that I like to wear.  Will Teddy's fan club pick orange
> first?????  <<<running and hiding from Teddy>>>
>
> Hmmmm.... seems I am laid back according to the test.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:35:10 -0800
Status: RO



Maggie Secara wrote:

> LOL, the results are a little bandwidth-greedy, and it doesn't use simple names
> or numbers or titles or categories. I wish I could tell you I'm a Winter, or a
> UCSB, or a Lawful Good (with conditions) but they haven't given us those kind of
> options.
>
> My choices start with green-blue-red (or blue-green-red) and end with tawney
> (orange) then grey.  The middle is more or less random.  Figure me out at your
> will :)
>

Interesting how a slight change in order changes some parts.
I think it had bits right, but I didn't like the tone of the results. It reads like
a bad romance novel.
Then again I may just be grumpy because I just lost all my bookmarks and the
contents of my inbox (including some unreplied-to emails)
Claire


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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 07:54:37 -0500
Status: RO

I found this really interesting website... it shows windows displays at
designer shops.  Check it out...
http://www.fashionwindows.com/windows2/default.asp  OOOOooo I wanted to
grown up and design window displays.

Okay, I will keep this historic... This website has the history of the
mannequin... this is where you start
http://www.fashionwindows.com/mannequin_history/default.asp  It is several
pages long.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:25:54 -0500
Status: RO

I finally finished updating my 1940s fashion history webpage.  I usually do
this is August.  But I found some new websites... so that a peak.
http://www.costumegallery.com/1940.htm  If anyone knows of a site with a
good article about 1940s fashions, please give me a yell.

BTW, when you have some time go to the Opera Gloves Gallery links.  But plan
on spending a long time.  This site is massive.  It is one of my favorite
websites.

Good night all, ZZZZZZZZ

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:28:34 -0500
Status: RO

MaggiRos... are you kin to this lady????????

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 3:20 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!


>
>
>
> Maggie Secara
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 3:15 PM
> > To: h-costume
> > Subject: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
> >
> >
> > Here is the article that the Associated Press interviewed me for.  I am
> > quoted twice in the article, so look near the middle and near the end.
The
> > article should show up in your newspaper within the next two weeks in
the
> > fashion section. It went out on the AP wire on Jan. 21 to news sources
> > around the world. Everyone please call your newspaper and ask them to
run
> > the article.  If they do please save me a the entire page of the
newspaper.
> > I am making a large scrapbook of all the newspapers that run the
article.
> > Thanks, Penny
> >
>
> > Girls grew up fast. "Even my 15-year-old sister _ her real name was
> > Blossom but everybody called her Tootsie _
>
> My grandmother's name is Hortense, but her brothers all called her
Tootsie. :)
> She, through my mother, assures me that "The Sweetheart of Sigma Chi" was
> written for her.
>
>
> MaggiRos
> ~My Pi Phi girl!/I love you best of all fraternities...
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:19:39 -0500
Status: RO

Cool! I'll look for it, and ask about it.

Parenthetically, I know another reason, in one case at least,  for 
pants. A woman I knew had worked in a factory during the war. She told 
me that her work itself didn't really require pants, and she and a few 
others continued wearing skirts (which, after all, they already owned), 
until they realized that the foreman was casually walking past the 
platform where they stood,  and glancing up their skirts. That weekend, 
they all bought slacks! Not a skirt to be seen on the floor after that. 
But I don't think they would have told any outsider.

Anne

Penny Ladnier wrote:

>
>With factory work came trousers for women. "Working women started
>wearing coveralls and pants to work for safety reasons," says Ladnier. "Many
>women
>were working with heavy machinery, and climbing in and out of spaces, making
>dresses impractical. Women decided that they liked
>wearing pants and started wearing them outside of work situations."
>
>



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:40:04 EST
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       I must be totally off the wall.  I took the test and waited for the 
results.  The music played and finally the busy little strip at the bottom of 
the page said "done".  But the page remained blank.  I even tried to reload 
and got the same results.  I always knew I was a bit weird, but most of these 
tests try to fit me into their little descriptions somewhere.  Oh well. . . 

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I must be totally off the wall. &nbsp;I took the test and waited for the results. &nbsp;The music played and finally the busy little strip at the bottom of the page said "done". &nbsp;But the page remained blank. &nbsp;I even tried to reload and got the same results. &nbsp;I always knew I was a bit weird, but most of these tests try to fit me into their little descriptions somewhere. &nbsp;Oh well. . . 
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:39:16 -0500
Status: RO

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Poor Lalah..........  did you make every block white?????  Are you an angel?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: LalahTT@aol.com
  To: h-costume@indra.com
  Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 11:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test


       I must be totally off the wall.  I took the test and waited for the
results.  The music played and finally the busy little strip at the bottom
of the page said "done"..  But the page remained blank.  I even tried to
reload and got the same results.  I always knew I was a bit weird, but most
of these tests try to fit me into their little descriptions somewhere.  Oh
well. . .

  Lalah
  Never Give up, Never Surrender,
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
  Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
  http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4912.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Poor Lalah..........&nbsp; did you make every block =
white?????&nbsp; Are
you an angel?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
  <A title=3DLalahTT@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:LalahTT@aol.com">LalahTT@aol.com</A>
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 23, =
2002 11:40
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] A Teddy =
Fan Club
  Test</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT
  size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I must be totally off the wall. =
&nbsp;I
  took the test and waited for the results. &nbsp;The music played and =
finally
  the busy little strip at the bottom of the page said "done".. =
&nbsp;But the
  page remained blank. &nbsp;I even tried to reload and got the same =
results.
  &nbsp;I always knew I was a bit weird, but most of these tests try to =
fit me
  into their little descriptions somewhere. &nbsp;Oh well. . . =
<BR><BR>Lalah
  <BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender, <BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - =
- - - -
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - <BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check =
out Beary
  Classy Bears at
  <BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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In a message dated 1/23/02 11:56:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
penny@costumegallery.com writes:


> Poor Lalah..........  did you make every block white?????  Are you an angel?

       I made every block white and I am about as far from being an angel as 
one can get.  I will try it again later and maybe the computer will feel more 
cooperative.  In the meantime, I just feel unique.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/23/02 11:56:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, penny@costumegallery.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Poor Lalah.......... &nbsp;did you make every block white????? &nbsp;Are you an angel?</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I made every block white and I am about as far from being an angel as one can get. &nbsp;I will try it again later and maybe the computer will feel more cooperative. &nbsp;In the meantime, I just feel unique.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 23 12:14:48 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:49:40 -0800
Status: RO

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This test is based on a pretty well known psychological diagnostics tool 
called the Luscher Color Test.

The original test uses cards and you have the subject select them in order 
from most favorite to least favorite.  The colors are not true; i.e. the 
red isn't primary red but a tomato red.  Carl Luscher's choose the off 
colors specifically, for a variety of reasons.  Sometimes a color has more 
importance in the schema  if it was selected for the 5th  position then in 
the first position and some placements are co- dependant. Just as an 
example: if you choose purple in the 2 position and yellow in the last 
position.

Now the colors as they displayed on my screen are not the same as the 
original test and I wonder if this on-line test was modified to support 
that.  I'm guessing yes since the data you get back is much more condensed 
then the original. I'd suggest looking up his work if you are interested.

Curiously enough thought the results were pretty general (I give them a lot 
of slack as to predictability) and the colors were off,  I found my 
diagnosis came pretty close to home. I just wish it focused on more then 
one or two outcomes.

Now if you liked this but want more, I suggest finding the Myers-Briggs 
Personality Sorter.  I know you can find the condensed version online now 
under the Keirsey  (sp?) Personality Sorter but it's really worth your time 
to find the complete 72 (or was it 76) question version.

At 11:40 AM 1/23/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>      I must be totally off the wall.  I took the test and waited for the 
> results.  The music played and finally the busy little strip at the 
> bottom of the page said "done".  But the page remained blank.  I even 
> tried to reload and got the same results.  I always knew I was a bit 
> weird, but most of these tests try to fit me into their little 
> descriptions somewhere.  Oh well. . .
>
>Lalah
>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

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<font face="Arial, Helvetica"><br>
This test is based on a pretty well known psychological diagnostics tool
called the Luscher Color Test.&nbsp; <br><br>
The original test uses cards and you have the subject select them in
order from most favorite to least favorite.&nbsp; The colors are not
true; i.e. the red isn't primary red but a tomato red.&nbsp; Carl
Luscher's choose the off colors specifically, for a variety of
reasons.&nbsp; Sometimes a color has more importance in the schema&nbsp;
if it was selected for the 5th&nbsp; position then in the first position
and some placements are co- dependant. Just as an example: if you choose
purple in the 2 position and yellow in the last position. <br><br>
Now the colors as they displayed on my screen are not the same as the
original test and I wonder if this on-line test was modified to support
that.&nbsp; I'm guessing yes since the data you get back is much more
condensed then the original. I'd suggest looking up his work if you are
interested.&nbsp; <br><br>
Curiously enough thought the results were pretty general (I give them a
lot of slack as to predictability) and the colors were off,&nbsp; I found
my diagnosis came pretty close to home. I just wish it focused on more
then one or two outcomes.<br><br>
Now if you liked this but want more, I suggest finding the Myers-Briggs
Personality Sorter.&nbsp; I know you can find the condensed version
online now under the Keirsey&nbsp; (sp?) Personality Sorter but it's
really worth your time to find the complete 72 (or was it 76) question
version.<br><br>
At 11:40 AM 1/23/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br>
</font><blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
I must be totally off the wall.&nbsp; I took the test and waited for the
results.&nbsp; The music played and finally the busy little strip at the
bottom of the page said &quot;done&quot;.&nbsp; But the page remained
blank.&nbsp; I even tried to reload and got the same results.&nbsp; I
always knew I was a bit weird, but most of these tests try to fit me into
their little descriptions somewhere.&nbsp; Oh well. . . <br><br>
Lalah <br>
Never Give up, Never Surrender, <br>
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - <br>
Looking for a great gift?&nbsp; Check out Beary Classy Bears at <br>
<a href="http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html" eudora="autourl">http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html</a>
<br>
</font></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica" color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font face="Arial, Helvetica">University of California, Davis <br>
</font></b></html>

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From: Shea Young <younganne@usa.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test]
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Date: 23 Jan 2002 09:54:19 PST
Status: RO

Don't worry Lalah - the site didn't behave for me either....

Shea

LalahTT@aol.com wrote:

> I took the test and waited for the results.  The music played and finally
the busy little strip at the bottom of the page said "done".  


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       I thought the color test looked familiar.  Somewhere in my library I 
have the book with the color cards.  Used it back in my counseling days.  
Strange thing to forget, but these senior moments come way too often now days.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I thought the color test looked familiar. &nbsp;Somewhere in my library I have the book with the color cards. &nbsp;Used it back in my counseling days. &nbsp;Strange thing to forget, but these senior moments come way too often now days.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] YSL's last couture collection
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At 03:55 AM 1/23/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>It is so sad that YSL is retiring, but why do fashion designers always have
>to play cut throat in the press.  It doesn't make them look better.

Funny, maybe it was just my school (CalArts) but in the advanced 
curriculum,  I found it to be very competitive within the costume/theatre 
design folks.  And during my years at FIDM, i found most of my fellow 
design students to be very open. The curious thing was I also found that 
everyone separated into racially segregated cliques.  While student 
teaching, I did notice a bit more proprietary behavior occurring with the 
International students (mostly Asians) but I just assumed it was a cultural 
thing.

>When I was in college, I took classes with both the costume design and the
>fashion design students.  The costume design students loved to share ideas
>and help one another.  The fashion design students were so scared someone
>would steal their brilliant idea of a creation.  Everything was a secret.
>So petty.  And the gossip was unreal!  I think that really stunted their
>creative growth.  I have also heard the arts & crafts industry is this
>scared/secretive group too.  Anyone have experience with the A&C industry?

I'm assuming you don't mean the Arts and Crafts movement of the late 19th 
and early 20th century.  That particular movement was all about being 
accessible to the common man, both through intellectually and materially. I 
mean, these folks were the hippies of the turn of century. I find E. 
Hubbard to be a fascinating person >; )

>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis


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<html>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica">At 03:55 AM 1/23/2002 -0500, you
wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>It is so sad that YSL is retiring,
but why do fashion designers always have<br>
to play cut throat in the press.&nbsp; It doesn't make them look
better.</font></blockquote><br>
Funny, maybe it was just my school (CalArts) but in the advanced
curriculum,&nbsp; I found it to be very competitive within the
costume/theatre design folks.&nbsp; And during my years at FIDM, i found
most of my fellow design students to be very open. The curious thing was
I also found that everyone separated into racially segregated
cliques.&nbsp; While student teaching, I did notice a bit more
proprietary behavior occurring with the International students (mostly
Asians) but I just assumed it was a cultural thing. <br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="Arial, Helvetica">When
I was in college, I took classes with both the costume design and
the<br>
fashion design students.&nbsp; The costume design students loved to share
ideas<br>
and help one another.&nbsp; The fashion design students were so scared
someone<br>
would steal their brilliant idea of a creation.&nbsp; Everything was a
secret.<br>
So petty.&nbsp; And the gossip was unreal!&nbsp; I think that really
stunted their<br>
creative growth.&nbsp; I have also heard the arts &amp; crafts industry
is this<br>
scared/secretive group too.&nbsp; Anyone have experience with the A&amp;C
industry?</font></blockquote><br>
I'm assuming you don't mean the Arts and Crafts movement of the late 19th
and early 20th century.&nbsp; That particular movement was all about
being accessible to the common man, both through intellectually and
materially. I mean, these folks were the hippies of the turn of century.
I find E. Hubbard to be a fascinating person &gt;; )<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="Arial, Helvetica">Penny
Ladnier<br>
Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume Classroom<br>
<a href="http://www.costumegallery.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.costumegallery.com</a><br>
<a href="http://www.costumeclassroom.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.costumeclassroom.com</a><br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica" color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font face="Arial, Helvetica">University of California, Davis
<br><br>
</font></b></html>

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:58:06 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,
I just tried the test and  I was supised that the outcome was verry true
for me.
I really reconized myself in the text.
Exept the last vour centences.

Greetings,
        Deredere

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:53:34 -0600
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C1A415.59921960
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I experienced the same problem - until I changed my cookie acceptance =
level.  *Then* I was able to see the result.

Marie

  In a message dated 1/23/02 11:56:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, =
penny@costumegallery.com writes:



    Poor Lalah..........  did you make every block white?????  Are you =
an angel?


        I made every block white and I am about as far from being an =
angel as one can get.  I will try it again later and maybe the computer =
will feel more cooperative.  In the meantime, I just feel unique.

  Lalah
  Never Give up, Never Surrender,


------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C1A415.59921960
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I experienced the same problem - until I changed my =
cookie
acceptance level.&nbsp; *Then* I was able to see the =
result.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Marie</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>In a =
message dated
  1/23/02 11:56:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, <A
  href=3D"mailto:penny@costumegallery.com">penny@costumegallery.com</A> =
writes:
  <BR><BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE
  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"
  TYPE=3D"CITE">Poor Lalah.......... &nbsp;did you make every block =
white?????
    &nbsp;Are you an angel?</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =
lang=3D0 size=3D3
    FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
face=3DArial
  lang=3D0 size=3D2 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I
  made every block white and I am about as far from being an angel as =
one can
  get. &nbsp;I will try it again later and maybe the computer will feel =
more
  cooperative. &nbsp;In the meantime, I just feel unique. <BR><BR>Lalah
  <BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C1A415.59921960--

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:01:52 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


> I use the Closet Maid plastic coated metal rack shelving.  (Carried by both
> Lowe's and Home Depot in the closet section)
> 
> It comes with both the bars on the walls (where you place the shelf
> supports) or free supports.

I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet tall,
are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of
different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable
cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place the
shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a whole
wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built in.

Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:47:03 +0000
Status: RO

Wow!  I am fascinated by the deep technical intricacies this question 
has brought up, and all the factors that interact in what is, of course, 
the most difficult part of a garment to fit.  I will have to take it all 
away and integrate all this information.

Many thanks!

Jean

PS - My husband, and friends who make mailshirts, got the chance once to 
get a close look at a real mailshirt in the National Museum of Scotland. 
They all really wanted to know how people did the underarm in period, 
because it's so hard to do tidily.  And the answer was - they had to 
fudge and cobble it together too!
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting at ren. faires
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:53:01 +0000
Status: RO

Maggie Secara <maggiros@adelphia.net> wrote
>
>How about ordinary sewing?  One of my favorite tricks is to make up a man's
>shirt, by machine, then rip out all the seams.  Now the stitch lines are all
>there but more or less invisible to the passer by.  Use steel head pins and you
>can sit and sew it back together by hand and look much more practical-ly
>occupied than by doing decorative work.  The needle holes may disappear, but
>it's remarkably easy to pin and stitch where you have stitched before. :)
>
>You can also get the fellows to bring you their mending.  It's amazing how many
>elbows get blown during Battle Pageant or fight circle, especially if their
>girlfriends used cotton instead of linen.  Or sew on their buttons like Wendy,
>or ...  And then (ah ha) they have to pay you!
>
>This is especially good for campfollowers, but even noble ladies 
>stitched shirts
>for their gentlemen!
>
>MaggiRos
>who is sometimes Clara Munter, the Soldaten's Freunde
>
Don't know if it's appropriate for the date, but I do endless lucet 
cord, which is easy to do even when people talk to you.  Hubby uses it 
to hold up his mail leggings, and at least one piece breaks in every 
battle.  Just-in-time mending techniques!

Jean
>
>
>>
>> -Elisabeth
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:31:46 +0000
Status: RO

Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU> wrote
>At 11:44 PM +0000 1/21/02, Jean Waddie wrote:
>>Hi list.
>>
>>I'm thinking about early set-in sleeves, prompted by a friend.  I can
>>see from Marc's extant garment pages that they were using s-shaped
>>sleeve heads in the 14th century.  Now, with modern curved sleeve heads,
>>you have to gather the top to ease it into the armhole.  Is there any
>>evidence whether this was always done?  Is it possible to make a set-in
>>sleeve fit without gathering?  Or is there some way you don't need it on
>>a s-shaped sleeve but you do on a "sine-curve" one?
>
>My experience, in working up reproductions of garments of this type, is 
>that you don't have any ease or gathering and they fit perfectly 
>anyway. The shallower S-curve at the top of the sleeve means that the 
>"undistorted" position for the sleeve (i.e. the one it would assume 
>under zero gravity) is with the sleeves much more elevated towards the 
>horizontal than for a modern cap sleeve.  The more extreme shape of 
>modern sleeves is designed so that the "undistorted" position is 
>roughly with your arms down at your sides.
>
That makes sense.  So they were, in a way, working away from the t-tunic 
style, where the undistorted position is totally horizontal.  And that's 
maybe a reason for developing the set-in sleeve, to reduce the bulk 
under the arm you get from a horizontal sleeve.  Aha, I begin to 
understand.

JEan

>Picture, if you will, a cylinder (i.e., your sleeve) intersecting a 
>vertical plane (an approximation for the garment).  If you set the 
>cylinder horizontal (arms straight out to your sides), it will 
>intersect the plane perpendicular to the sleeve axis, producing a 
>perfectly circular cross-section, this is the equivalent of a 
>completely unshaped sleeve and armscye.  The top of your sleeve is a 
>straight line and is the smallest possible sewing line for attachment 
>to the garment.
>
>Now drop your arms/cylinder to a 45 degree angle.  The cylinder 
>intersects your body-plane at an angle, with an elliptical cross 
>section.  If you flatten out your cylinder, the top edge will form a 
>sine-wave, and the length of the stitch "path" will be significantly 
>longer than the preceding example.  All with the exact same "arm" size.
>
>The further you drop your arms/cylinder towards the vertical, the more 
>elongated your elliptical cross-section will be, and the longer your 
>stitch-path will become ... except that now the top end of your 
>hypothetical sleeve intersects the plane of your garment somewhere over 
>your head. So instead you take the upper part of the 
>sleeve-cross-section-ellipse and crumple it down onto your actual 
>shoulder, i.e., gather or ease the top of the sleeve.
>
>I.e., the gathering is primarily a function of the angle at which the 
>sleeve is designed to sit "naturally", and has nothing to do with fit 
>in an absolute sense.
>
>Heather
>(see -- geometry _was_ useful!)

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:59:25 +0000
Status: RO

I have a super technique in a book my mother (the needlework teacher) 
gave me - Betty Foster, "Creating Fashion" - Macdonald & Co, 1983, ISBN 
0356 097072  Although it's obviously biased towards the 70s and early 
80s (batwings and blousons) it really gives you the techniques to create 
any shape from a basic block.

If you don't get anything else by the weekend, I'll try to copy the 
sleeve calculation into Word or something I can send you.

Jean

Maggie Secara <maggiros@adelphia.net> wrote
>I've been meaning to ask y'all about sleeve calculation for years, and 
>I usually
>just forget.  I haven't read all of this thread yet, and it's 
>approaching 1:00am
>here (on a work night, oh dear!) so I'm just sving all the pieces.
>
>My basic question is: how do I pattern a sleeve to match the armsceye I just
>draped to perfection?  I have a feeling the answer is in this thread, but it's
>too late to pursue just now.  I'm just delighted it's come up at last.
>
>And so to bed...
>
>
>MaggiRos
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
>> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
>> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 11:44 PM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
>>
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:56:38 -0800
Status: RO

Kate M Bunting writes, in a message sent 09:38 AM 1/23/02 +0000:
>We use four in Britain too. I know knitting techniques are slightly 
>different in continental Europe.

I learned to use five to differentiate myself from the English, I playing a 
German at Ren. Faire.  They used four, and 'threw' their stitches as an 
English knitter does.  I learned the Continental method, where the yarn 
goes over the left index finger to be picked up, and did that too, same 
reason.  After meeting me, they claimed to have learned the Continental 
method from me, and did it that way, it being their actual preference.


Kayta
    //// \\\
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/----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:25:13 -0600
Status: RO

It wouldn't work for me.  I picked my colors then a box popped up 
saying "document contained no data, contact administrator".

Does that mean the order of colors I chose means I am in a void? 
*L*

Katie

michaela wrote:
> 
> > LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
> > http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html The first color in the test pick as
> > your favorite color to wear.  I took the whole test in order of preference
> > of the colors that I like to wear.  Will Teddy's fan club pick orange
> > first?????  <<<running and hiding from Teddy>>>
> 
> It was spot on. Exactly where I am at the moment. So much so, I'm using it
> in my journal, and going to fill out their little survey. Mind you it is
> based on phychological principles isn't it?
> 
> michaela
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:41:55 -0600
Status: RO

Donnie (my husband) and I worked for Vanity Fair for about a year. 
He was the "stock guy", he piled the work around us sewers.  They 
"trained" us for about a week or 2 on "factory defect stuff". You 
know the stuff you can buy at the Factory Oulet Stores.  Then put
us on the line.  "Training" consisted of mostly timing tests. 
*L*

Katie

Heather wrote:
> 
> part of it happens when they have someone new doing it.  When I worked in a
> tropical wear factory, they often let people who were "trying out" cut/sew
> the real thing, rather than having them try on something that wasn't going
> out.  I don't know, but maybe Less and other big companies do this as well,
> and maybe Levi and Wrangler have their newbies and interviews try out on
> cheap stuff.
> Moira
> (still finding it funny that the tropical wear shop was in Massachusetts);-)
>
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:45:10 -0600
Status: RO

Well trying to get names and devices passed is sometimes like a 
wrestling match for some. *Laughs then runs and hides incase 
there is any Laurels here*

Katie

Gwyn Carnegie wrote:
> 
> Silly me. I got to the bottom of the page and saw "Notes on The
> Wrestling Laurels" automatically thought it was spoof paper on Laurels
> in the SCA.
> 
> At 10:25 AM 1/15/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> 
> > it's at:
> > http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/superwides.htm
> >
> > Enjoy!
> >
> > Drea
> >
> Gwyn Carnegie
> University of California, Davis
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:52:33 -0500
Status: RO

At 01:28 PM 01/22/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I've just found a great source for reed boning.  www.granndgarb.com 
>has several sorts of reed (sizes/shapes) and I ordered the 1/4" flat 
>oval reed (780 ft for $7.80US) -- and it's arrived today.  (snip)

I use half-oval reed to bone corsets, and find that it works pretty well; I
put two pieces of reed, flat sides together, per channel, so that the
pieces reinforce each other.  Good luck, and happy sewing!

Cheers,
Mara

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:01:10 -0500
Status: RO

<html>
Oh, let me beg you to make me a copy!&nbsp; Please!<br>
<br>
Can I offer, by way of exchange, a tracing and photo of an old corset-ish
thing that was in my mom's cedar chest?&nbsp; It was apparently worn by
one of the women in her family, and I can't quite call it a corset, as I
don't think it offers enough support to truly be a corset, and is made of
velvet.&nbsp; I can't quite date it, as I've never seen anything like it
in costume books...&nbsp; I made a 'copy' of this thing when I was 14 and
wore it for a &quot;Renaissance&quot; SCA outfit (I know better
now).<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
Mara<br>
<br>
At 04:46 PM 01/22/2002 -0500, you wrote: <br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>I have another Edwardian corset pattern that
is easy as pie. It too is taken from an actual corset I found in the
bottom of a trunk at a yard sale. It is in 4 pieces [each side] and
lightly boned. Obviously not intended for evening wear but rather day
wear or even sports wear. Gives one the shape, however. I put a bone
between each existing bone to give it more.....er....bones. <br>
<br>
I'll send anyone a copy of it ....if I can find the thing. I remember
lending the pattern to someone back during the &quot;Titanic&quot; craze
but don't remember getting it back. I still have the corset
though...somewhere in the bottom of a box. I just don't do that much
Edwardian. <br>
<br>
Seriously....let me find it and I'll make copies....until it gets to be
too much trouble that is. </blockquote><br>
<BR>
</html>
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:20:50 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

drea, you should really take pictures of your IKEA storage 
for inspiration for other fabric collectors!  

.heather.


> 
> > I use the Closet Maid plastic coated metal rack shelving.  (Carried by both
> > Lowe's and Home Depot in the closet section)
> > 
> > It comes with both the bars on the walls (where you place the shelf
> > supports) or free supports.
> 
> I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet tall,
> are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of
> different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable
> cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place the
> shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a whole
> wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built in.
> 
> Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:29:13 -0500
Status: RO

HEY this is pretty accurate- my life really DOES suck at present.!
Did everyone else get a negative result or
is it *ahem* just me?


A snippet of my result:

"You are feeling really miserable at this time... and you'd like to form a
relationship with someone with whom you could really communicate. At the same time
... whoever it may be... that special "someone" must not conflict with your own
belief system or ideals... All the problems that you have been experiencing of
late seem to have become a part of your  life and there is little that can be done
to change the situation. Your emotions run high. , etc, etc.

Uh, thanks.
Deb R

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:31:49 -0500
Status: RO


> LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
> http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html
Heavens - it wasn't that far off.  School this year is a killer timewise - I
am teaching SEVEN DIFFERENT things.  I don't get to play in the SCA very
much at all - between school during the week, and having to go home to take
care of Mom at least two weekends a month,  it is hitting home a lot.
Rowena

You are feeling exhausted ... worn out ... drained. You feel that far too
much is being asked of you but you still want to overcome these difficulties
and establish yourself despite the effect such an effort seems to have on
you. You are a proud person, assertive most of the time but at this
particular moment you are acting as if you have become resigned to the
situation. What you need... is some tender loving care- a gentle pat on the
head..(or maybe a "kick-up-the backside") and then you'll be raring to go...

Recently you have been experiencing considerable mental anguish and turmoil.
You are bored and discontent. Nothing seems to be going right for you. Even
your relationships aren't working out and you don't quite know which way to
turn.

Your confidence has been shattered... There are so many things that you
would like to do with your life, so many dreams to be fulfilled, and you
know that your hopes and dreams are not just figments of your imagination...
they are real, and you are looking for reassurance from someone. Basically
your fears are such that you may be prevented in attaining your hopes and
dreams. Even now you would like to broaden your fields of endeavour...but in
order to develop your "inner- self" you need peace and solace. You are
distressed by the fear that you may be prevented from attaining your goals..
What you really need at this particular moment in time is quiet reassurance
from someone close to you to restore your confidence.

Whatever you strive to do, something always seems to be holding you back.
There is no subterfuge in you. You are a clear thinker and all you demand
from life, in a relationship, is a partner whom you can trust and with whom
you can, together, develop a foundation of trust based on understanding. You
are your own person... and you demand freedom of thought ...to follow your
own convictions. You have no interest in "two-timing" and all you seek is
sincerity and "straight-dealing".

You are trying to build up your own position and you resist all external
influences. You insist that you are your own person and you will not
tolerate any outside interference. Decisive and proud, you are true
managerial material...


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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:50:14 -0500
Status: RO

Okay so these all have an alarming, overly-melancholy tone. And that music
re-enforces the forboding vibe.

The phrases it uses- "confidence shattered" "hopes and dreams-prevented"
"considerable mental anguish and turmoil"
Like something you'd expect in a suicide note, right?...

Deb

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:03:26 EST
Status: RO

Gee, mine was so sacchriney sweet I almost didn't make it thru. From what the 
result said I'm a wonderfully, fantastically, nice person who just needs a 
little bit more warm fuzzies in her life to make everything complete. (a) 
I've got 2 kids under 10 who can't walk across a room wihtout a sidetrip to 
hug "the momma" and a hubby who's pretty much the same way and (b) if I'm as 
sweet and kind and wonderful and etc as they said I don't want to know me. 
Ugh! I took it twice and came up with similar responses on each. The thing 
is-I didn't listen to the music. I've got headphones in the plug on my 
computer so I can't hear what it says. My son plays Reading Blaster and it's 
sibling programs and seems to enjoy it best at almost full volume so I put 
the phones in and leave them. Let's try waiting a couple of days and taking 
it again-if you listened-don't. If you didn't listen-do and see what happens.
Lady G (the nice and wonderous >snort<)
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:54:54 -0800
Status: RO


I got that exact paragraph... cant say it's true for me. Quite sorry life
doth suck for you.  We are seriously excited and happy about moving back to
our friends. Worst thing lately is a harddrive that siezed. Big deal. I
think MaggieRos(? hope I've attributed this correctly) said it all when she
likened it to a horoscope.  Utter garbage.  Might as well believe the
Dogbert reference letter writer. (a treasure!)

Speaking of moving & of colors ... we will be moving into a 1919 house.
(Calif high-style Craftsman; not the bungalow style.)  Can anyone pitch in
with color ideas?  I'm having a terrible time finding sites with color
pictures of original stuff.  'Bout ready to give up and just use the fashion
colors of the day.  Problem there is that '19 is one of those transition
times... not really 20's style, it's not Nouveau, it's not bold Deco, not
war years & not classic teens look.  Help?
--cin
In Tokyo, but not for very much longer

> HEY this is pretty accurate- my life really DOES suck at present.!
> Did everyone else get a negative result or is it *ahem* just me?
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:51:53 -0600
Status: RO

Awww but you are the most sweetest, warmest, most huggible person in 
the whole wide world!! *makes kisses faces, then runs and hides*

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Gee, mine was so sacchriney sweet I almost didn't make it thru. From what the
> result said I'm a wonderfully, fantastically, nice person who just needs a
> little bit more warm fuzzies in her life to make everything complete. (a)
> I've got 2 kids under 10 who can't walk across a room wihtout a sidetrip to
> hug "the momma" and a hubby who's pretty much the same way and (b) if I'm as
> sweet and kind and wonderful and etc as they said I don't want to know me.
> Ugh! I took it twice and came up with similar responses on each. The thing
> is-I didn't listen to the music. I've got headphones in the plug on my
> computer so I can't hear what it says. My son plays Reading Blaster and it's
> sibling programs and seems to enjoy it best at almost full volume so I put
> the phones in and leave them. Let's try waiting a couple of days and taking
> it again-if you listened-don't. If you didn't listen-do and see what happens.
> Lady G (the nice and wonderous >snort<)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Craftsman House/1919 fashion colors (was: A Teddy Fan Club Test)
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:32:27 -0800
Status: RO

To Cynthia-

I have a book called "In the Arts and Crafts Style", by Barbara Mayer,
all about the houses and accoutrements of the era.  The interiors show
either white/off-white walls (which may be a more contemporary
treatment) to show off the extensive woodwork or really high
wainscoating with wallpaper in William Morris-type prints. The colors in
the wallpapers are the kind you see in those faded medieval tapestries -
sagey green, off-brown, red in between brown and pink, faded gold, and
light periwinkle.  I'm so envious of your new-old house and I hope you
have a fabulous time decorating it.

Hope the book gives some useful clues, 

Theresa Eacker

Cynthia Barnes wrote:(Rigorous Pruning)

> Speaking of moving & of colors ... we will be moving into a 1919 house.
> (Calif high-style Craftsman; not the bungalow style.)  Can anyone pitch in
> with color ideas?  I'm having a terrible time finding sites with color
> pictures of original stuff.  'Bout ready to give up and just use the fashion
> colors of the day. e
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:27:46 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 23/1/02 6:55:06 PM, nejma@tds.net writes:
<< Awww but you are the most sweetest, warmest, most huggible person in 
the whole wide world!! *makes kisses faces, then runs and hides* >>

Darling, wonderful love, how I've missed your arms around me on those deep 
dark nights on the oasis. The scent of the wind and camel dung wafting across 
the desert sands... Speaking of camel dung, that's what the results are. All 
it really proves is I like purples and abhor orange! Does that mean purple 
people are nicer than orange people? Somehow I doubt it. Did the oranges get 
"worse scores" than the purple people did? SPILL!
Actually-euwww. Where on earth did I get THAT reputation. I'd run and hide 
too. I think I will. Red is NOT my colour, purple is much better.
Hiding out for now,
Later,
Lady G
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@home.com>
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:45:56 -0500
Status: RO

Mine was pretty much a 'true' report, I am going through a rough patch, and
I am stubborn, no doubt.  But, like a horoscope or fortune cookie, you can
read into it what you want to, or toss it.  Like I said, I'm really
stubborn. ;o>
I still hate that music!

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va. USA


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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:51:40 -0500
Status: RO

Wow lucky, lucky you!
There is a house museum near me in NJ called 'Craftsman Farms'. It was the
designer Gustav Stickley's house. Everything in there is all aged hardwood, mostly
from exotic fruit trees. That look would be pretty pricey to dupe, I'm guessing,
but anyway, they have an online gift shop with books about everything Craftsman...

Deb R.

Here is the Museum web site:
http://www.parsippany.net/craftsmanfarms.html

Here is the Shop website:
http://stickleymuseumshop.safeshopper.com/

Have fun decorating!

> we will be moving into a 1919 house.
> (Calif high-style Craftsman; not the bungalow style.)  Can anyone pitch in
> with color ideas?  I'm having a terrible time finding sites with color
> pictures of original stuff.

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:01:04 -0600
Status: RO


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I'm sure IKEA is great, if you live near a store (since the online 
catalog admits that there is more to see in the store than they show 
you), OR if you can get them to send you a D**N catalog!  I've tried 
several times to get a catalog sent to me (since the nearest store is in 
Chicagoland), but NOOO, they aren't interested in my money.

Karen (grumbling to no one in particular)

aleed wrote:

>
>I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet tall,
>are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of
>different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable
>cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place the
>shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a whole
>wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built in.
>
>Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)
>


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<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
I'm sure IKEA is great, if you live near a store (since the online catalog
admits that there is more to see in the store than they show you), OR if
you can get them to send you a D**N catalog! &nbsp;I've tried several times to
get a catalog sent to me (since the nearest store is in Chicagoland), but
NOOO, they aren't interested in my money.<br>
<br>
Karen (grumbling to no one in particular)<br>
<br>
aleed wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:Pine.GSU.4.10.10201231441260.23914-100000@picard.dnaco.net">
  <blockquote type="cite"></blockquote>
    <pre wrap=""><!----><br>I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet tall,<br>are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of<br>different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable<br>cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place the<br>shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a whole<br>wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built in.<br><br>Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)<br><br></pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    </body>
    </html>

--------------070107050204070703020003--

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:59:39 -0500
Status: RO

 Well no matter *what* order I seem to put the blocks in I get a
message of doom and despair. What does it all mean?!
I guess I really am miserable. And I thought I was pretty content today.
Oh well there's always tomorrow...
Deb R.



> .. Speaking of camel dung, that's what the results are. All
> it really proves is I like purples and abhor orange!

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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Looking for speculations ...
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:03:55 EST
Status: RO


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I've got a puzzle for the group.  One of my aunts has a friend who went 
panning for gold in Montana and ...

>>>
I also found this relic nearby. Can you give me any ideas about what it may 
be? It is solid silver mounted on a thin plate of brass. I am guessing it is 
some kind of decoration from a ladies hair piece. What is your guess?
<A HREF="http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/bonaro123/vwp?.dir=/Gold&.src=ph&.dnm=decoration1.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/bonaro123/lst%3f%26.dir=/Gold%26.src=ph%26.view=t">http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/bonaro123/vwp?.dir=/Gold&.src=ph&
.dnm=decoration1.jpg&.view=t&
.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/bonaro123/lst%3f%26.dir=/Gold%26.src=ph%26.

view=t</A> 
>>>

(Apologies for the long URL.  Yes, he posted the picture on Yahoo, so you'll 
need a Yahoo account to view it.)

The gentleman who found this also sent my aunt some additional information 
that might help date this piece:

>>>
"When I first found the decoration it had two tabs on it. I do not
believe it had a row of them but instead believe that there were probably
four, one near each corner. I think they were used to stitch the thing
down with thread. When dredging in a river you can approximate the time
period you are digging in by the sort of trash you are finding. Fir
instance if you find beer cans with pull tops they that layer of gravel
is from the 60's +/-.  The layer where I found the decoration was strewn
heavily with hand forged square nails. In fact, the black discoloration
on the silver is because of direct contact with some iron nails. The
gravel in this area was hard packed and undisturbed since it was
deposited. In doing some historical research on the area I found that the
mining district failed and the mill was burned in place around 1920. The
giant water wheel they used for power was also burned and all of the
debris fell directly into the stream...where I later dredged it up 80
years later."
>>>

Anyone have a guess on just what he found?

Leah

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I've got a puzzle for the group.&nbsp; One of my aunts has a friend who went panning for gold in Montana and ...<BR>
<BR>
&gt;&gt;&gt;<BR>
I also found this relic nearby. Can you give me any ideas about what it may be? It is solid silver mounted on a thin plate of brass. I am guessing it is some kind of decoration from a ladies hair piece. What is your guess?<BR>
<A HREF="http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/bonaro123/vwp?.dir=/Gold&.src=ph&.dnm=decoration1.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/bonaro123/lst%3f%26.dir=/Gold%26.src=ph%26.view=t">http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/bonaro123/vwp?.dir=/Gold&amp;.src=ph&amp;.dnm=decoration1.jpg&amp;.view=t&amp;.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/bonaro123/lst%3f%26.dir=/Gold%26.src=ph%26.view=t</A> <BR>
&gt;&gt;&gt;<BR>
<BR>
(Apologies for the long URL.&nbsp; Yes, he posted the picture on Yahoo, so you'll need a Yahoo account to view it.)<BR>
<BR>
The gentleman who found this also sent my aunt some additional information that might help date this piece:<BR>
<BR>
&gt;&gt;&gt;<BR>
"When I first found the decoration it had two tabs on it. I do not<BR>
believe it had a row of them but instead believe that there were probably<BR>
four, one near each corner. I think they were used to stitch the thing<BR>
down with thread. When dredging in a river you can approximate the time<BR>
period you are digging in by the sort of trash you are finding. Fir<BR>
instance if you find beer cans with pull tops they that layer of gravel<BR>
is from the 60's +/-.&nbsp; The layer where I found the decoration was strewn<BR>
heavily with hand forged square nails. In fact, the black discoloration<BR>
on the silver is because of direct contact with some iron nails. The<BR>
gravel in this area was hard packed and undisturbed since it was<BR>
deposited. In doing some historical research on the area I found that the<BR>
mining district failed and the mill was burned in place around 1920. The<BR>
giant water wheel they used for power was also burned and all of the<BR>
debris fell directly into the stream...where I later dredged it up 80<BR>
years later."<BR>
&gt;&gt;&gt;<BR>
<BR>
Anyone have a guess on just what he found?<BR>
<BR>
Leah</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Looking for speculations ...
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:08:52 EST
Status: RO

I'd say part of a shoe buckle, Just opinion, nothing real.
Lady G
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fwd: Looking for speculations ... sliver & brass pla
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:18:43 -0800
Status: RO


My WAG is a plaque applied to a fairly rigid, flat-surfaced object, such as
a ladies handbag or a heavily decorated, velvet covered photo album. As it
is, other apparel applications like belt or dress ornament would bend the
thin metal. OTOH, perhaps it was back in either application with something
stiffer like pasteboard, fabric, buckram. gutta percha and/or batting which
disappeared in the riverwater. (I think your correspondant said he was
panning?) Seems rather art nouveau in style. 
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo 
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:19:28 -0600
Status: RO

I don't know it looks kind fancy for a shoe ornament for someone 
who worked at a mill, and I would think if it was in the mill 
when it burned it would have melted. 

Katie

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I'd say part of a shoe buckle, Just opinion, nothing real.
> Lady G
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:24:42 EST
Status: RO

My reasoning was the dozen or so of them I have in my collection, one is very 
similar to this (most are marcasite), mine has a pasteboard backing with a 
couple of clips set into the backing. I've got a couple without any backing 
left on them and they look quite similar. But again, just my opinion, nothing 
real.
Lady G

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:45:39 -0700
Status: RO

I agree with Margo completely....my first farthingale was made like
this.  I used half-inch tubing (the kind you get in hardware stores for
water coolers and such) for the hoops--inexpensive, easy to mangle into
a suitcase, etc.
--Sue

Margo@margospatterns.com wrote:
> 
> >What I need to do however, is sort out some sort of quick and easy
> >pattern for a farthingale that will fit a seven to ten year old.
> >
> 
> The easiest way to do this is to make a gored skirt.  For a small girl, you
> can probably get away with a two-gore, front and back, cutting it from 45"
> fabric, but you can make more gores is you like.  If you want to be more
> accurate you can make straight front and back pieces and give them triagular
> side gores a la the Alcega pattern.  Make sure you have at least 6-12" or so
> ease at the waist, so you can gather it to a waist band, or use a
> drawstring, and adjust it as she gets bigger and still have some gathering
> for the proper line.  You'll want to add about 4" extra length for the
> spring out from waist to hem, in addition to those grow tucks.
> 
> Margo
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:52:12 -0700
Status: RO

Gawd, what would that about those of us who have a sort of
generic-mongrel-Heinz57-british-isles type of ethnic background....?
Sue, WASP-ish far enough back to wear yellow and black stripes...;-P

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> On another list, someone just referred to a study that found that people
> of Celtic and Anglo-Saxon descent have different foot shapes.
> 
> Can anyone recall that study, and perhaps either tell me the results, or
> point me to a copy online?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mara
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 02:49:45 GMT
Status: RO

On Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:59:39 -0500, the following was written in this
electric book by Deb Rand <martyr@gti.net>:

> Well no matter *what* order I seem to put the blocks in I get a
>message of doom and despair. What does it all mean?!
>I guess I really am miserable. And I thought I was pretty content today.
>Oh well there's always tomorrow...
>Deb R.

Mine said I was alone, lonely, and I'd be unlikely to find anyone to
spend my life with.

Odd, since i'm married and have numerous friends.

I suppose it has silly arbitrary meanings for the colours, and it's
probably somehow related to the fact that I loathe yellow.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: [Ansteorra] Seeking a sari shop
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:00:01 -0600
Status: RO

Can anyone help him? :)

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sluggy!" <slugmusk@linuxlegend.com>
To: <ansteorra@ansteorra.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 8:51 PM
Subject: [Ansteorra] Seeking a sari shop


> Greetings, all!
>
> I am in Houston on business for the week and I might have much of Friday
> free. I am hoping to find a particular sari shop that is near the
> hospital district. Does anyone know the name of it?
>
> Sluggy!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Ansteorra mailing list
> Ansteorra@ansteorra.org
> http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/ansteorra
>

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:13:34 -0800
Status: RO



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jean Waddie
> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 11:59 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
>
>
> I have a super technique in a book my mother (the needlework teacher)
> gave me - Betty Foster, "Creating Fashion" - Macdonald & Co, 1983, ISBN
> 0356 097072  Although it's obviously biased towards the 70s and early
> 80s (batwings and blousons) it really gives you the techniques to create
> any shape from a basic block.
>
> If you don't get anything else by the weekend, I'll try to copy the
> sleeve calculation into Word or something I can send you.
>

Wow, ok!  Cool!


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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:24:16 -0500
Status: RO

That is weird- they were pretty close for me too, except for the ending
where they were way off base- said "in the recent past all your hopes and
aspirations have been denied you...." I beg to differ!I think I've done
pretty well lately, myself.
Even though I picked blue first, I'm still a Teddy fan at heart!
-Megan McHugh

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 1:18 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test


Oh, how completely weird....they actually "got" me pretty good....except
for the end, when they said I'd be really good Management Material (I'm
about as far from that sort of thing as a person can get, without
working completely by myself).
--Sue (definitely a Teddy Fan, but I picked green first)

Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
> LOL!!!  Go take this color test... and learn more about yourself.
> http://www.colorgenics.com/intro.html The first color in the test pick as
> your favorite color to wear.  I took the whole test in order of preference
> of the colors that I like to wear.  Will Teddy's fan club pick orange
> first?????  <<<running and hiding from Teddy>>>
>
> Hmmmm.... seems I am laid back according to the test.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:38:50 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. Rutt shows the earliest representations of knitting ( The Buxtehude Abbey altarpiece, dated ca. 1390, the Madonna of Humility from the 1340s-50s, The Modena Madonna
ca 1360s, and the Lorenzetti Holy Family of ca. 1345) are seen with the Virgin using 4 needles. I haven't been able to find a reference for the beginning of use of
European sets of needles.

>
> I have a questions regarding the knitting madonna's and other representations of knitting prior to 1600, when knitting in the round, how many needles were they using?
>
> Seems Americans use four needles (earliest ref is a 1943 knitting book), Europeans use five and I wonder when this split happened.
>

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:47:56 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 23/1/02 9:23:02 PM, mmchugh@starpower.net writes:

<< Will Teddy's fan club pick orange first?????  <<<running and hiding from 
Teddy>>
Penny,
Better run and hide from Teddy's non-orange fans first. Grinnest. At least he 
and I have found the common ground of green. >giggle< Orange was my LAST 
pick, purple, red, black, yellow my first few. I did it again and listened to 
the music this time and came up with the same result. My Tetris game used to 
have the same "song" playing in the background but heavier bass notes but 
very similar. Strange music but I like it. Never said I was normal.
Lady G
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking tunic pattern from Haithabu
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 12:06:55 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:29 PM +0000 1/22/02, Jean Waddie wrote:
>Dear list,
>
>I am forwarding this query from a friend.  I hope some of you find 
>it interesting and can maybe shed some light on these very 
>odd-looking finds.

<snip>

>So my questions are;
>
>- Has anyone got any references to other tunics (up to ~13th cent) that have
>horizontal waist seams?


In terms of piecing separate pieces of cloth together, not that I can 
recall.  But a large number of tunics of the sub-Roman period (this 
primarily involves Coptic garments, but see also the French find at 
Martres-de-Veyre) have a relatively deep "tuck" sewn into an 
otherwise continuous, straight tunic at waist level.  I've seen a 
number of speculations on why this was done, whether to shorten the 
garment, or to prevent or repair extra wear under a belt -- but I 
don't know if there is a definitive answer.


>As far was we see there is only a couple of alternatives
>1. Hägg wrongly identified the warp threads in the fragments (I wouldn't think
>this is very likely).
>2. The front and back hung in one piece from sholder to hem with the warp
>horizontal (if so, a peice of fabric about 90cm wide would be needed). Why on
>earth would someone make it like that?


The simple answer may be, "because the design of the looms they were 
using made that a more efficient way to weave the cloth".  For 
example, Coptic tunics were woven in exactly this way, with the front 
and back of the garment in a single continuous panel perpendicular to 
the warp direction.  I believe a number of single-piece rectangular 
cloaks from northern Germany and Scandinavia in the Migration Era 
were also woven in fairly wide widths.  If you're weaving on an 
upright loom, some of the loom dynamics make it easier and more 
efficient to weave the same square footage in a wide, short piece 
than a narrow, long one.  One of the main driving forces for narrower 
loom widths was the need to be able to throw the shuttle between 
outstretch arms, but on the upright loom styles you weren't throwing 
the shuttle, so this wasn't a determining factor in width. 
(Thread-paths in some of the cloths described in Hald's "Ancient 
Danish Textiles" strongly suggest that two or three weavers were 
working side by side, passing the shuttles back and forth between 
them to complete the width.)  Upright looms continued in use well 
after the rise in popularity of horizontal looms with thrown 
shuttles.  It could be possible that someone was using an 
"extra-wide" fabric from a loom of this type, even in an era when a 
narrower cloth from a horizontal loom would be more typical.

Not a certain answer, by any means, but one possibility.

>3. That due to limitations in the amount of fabric available (or some other
>reason), the upper and lower portions of the tunic were different with the two
>being joined by a waist seam.


Possible -- or that an older garment had been patched at the waist 
(due to belt wear?) and that in the fragment remaining only the upper 
part of the patch remains, disguising the fact that it was a patch 
rather than a part of the original garment design?

One of the things that drives me mildly batty about Hagg's material 
is that she gives the appearance of drawing extremely definite and 
elaborately detailed conclusions about the nature of the original 
garments from textile fragments that appear to me to be relatively 
small and highly ambiguous.  I confess that I haven't yet worked my 
way through all her text -- I read German enough to work through it, 
but not very fluently -- and it may be that all my questions would be 
answered if I did.  But I see people using her interpretations 
(especially of the shaped Viking over-dress) with the sort of 
certainty that I tend to reserve for entire garments, and not for 
fragmentary scraps with a single remaining seam!


>Your views and thoughts on these questions and alternatives would be greatly
>appreciated. You can contact me directly at graemenott@hotmail.com

Copied to this address as well as the list.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:42:53 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:43 AM -0600 1/22/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>On Mon, 21 Jan 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>
>>  My experience, in working up reproductions of garments of this type,
>>  is that you don't have any ease or gathering and they fit perfectly
>>  anyway.  The shallower S-curve at the top of the sleeve means that the
>>  "undistorted" position for the sleeve (i.e. the one it would assume
>>  under zero gravity) is with the sleeves much more elevated towards the
>>  horizontal than for a modern cap sleeve.
>
>This idea of the elevated "undistorted" position conforms to my own sense,
>both from practical experience and from looking at images of extant
>garments. Heather, you've seen a lot more than I have of the latter, so I
>have a related question for you. Can you tell us whether the "undistorted"
>position tends to place those elevated arms forward to some degree, rather
>than straight out to the sides?

That seems to relate more to relative widths and shaping of the body 
panels.  I haven't really experimented much with it, but I should 
think that if you've got a relatively unshaped  body panel, equally 
wide at front and back (e.g., the Bocksten tunic), then the 
"undistorted" position would be with your arms positioned towards the 
back of the normal range.  But if you start increasing the width of 
the back panel relative to the front, either by extending the side 
gussets up into the armscye (as in -- I think -- the Moselund tunic, 
this  is from memory because I don't have the relevant description in 
the database) or by cutting into the front panel (as in the 
multiply-gored Herjolfsnes garments), or both, then you're going to 
get more of a "natural" set towards the front.  But I think this is 
only going to be noticeable if the garment is relatively 
tight-fitting, and individual variation in body type will also affect 
it (e.g., a large bust will affect the natural fall of the sleeves 
given the same panel-width proportions).

Purely as an impressionistic thing, since the shift towards 
"forward-set" sleeves correlates with the shift towards 
"downward-set" sleeves, I would tend to suspect that the same 
motivations are involved -- i.e., moving from a design that 
prioritizes simplicity of design to one that prioritizes conforming 
more to the body's "resting" position.

Heather
(who still can't get used to the notion that people consider me an 
"expert" on the topic -- hey, I've just looked at a lot of books!)
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:11:14 -0800
Status: RO

To my grandmother?  Why yes, I am! :)


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 5:29 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
>
>
> MaggiRos... are you kin to this lady????????
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 3:20 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Maggie Secara
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> > > Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 3:15 PM
> > > To: h-costume
> > > Subject: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
> > >
> > >
> > > Here is the article that the Associated Press interviewed me for.  I am
> > > quoted twice in the article, so look near the middle and near the end.
> The
> > > article should show up in your newspaper within the next two weeks in
> the
> > > fashion section. It went out on the AP wire on Jan. 21 to news sources
> > > around the world. Everyone please call your newspaper and ask them to
> run
> > > the article.  If they do please save me a the entire page of the
> newspaper.
> > > I am making a large scrapbook of all the newspapers that run the
> article.
> > > Thanks, Penny
> > >
> >
> > > Girls grew up fast. "Even my 15-year-old sister _ her real name was
> > > Blossom but everybody called her Tootsie _
> >
> > My grandmother's name is Hortense, but her brothers all called her
> Tootsie. :)
> > She, through my mother, assures me that "The Sweetheart of Sigma Chi" was
> > written for her.
> >
> >
> > MaggiRos
> > ~My Pi Phi girl!/I love you best of all fraternities...
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:09:06 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. It looks like a brass belt buckle frame onto which the decorative
item was attached. The tabs would have been folded back 90% and a pin
with the hooks for the belt would have been attached, roller-buckle
style. It most closely resembles the style of German WWII military
buckles, if I am correct. The other side could have been attached to the
belt, or a hook might have been soldered on. Just a guess, Mike T.


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 23 22:49:06 2002
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:24:01 EST
Status: RO

I've just had a horrible pun. I'm going to call my rag bag "The Crisper", 
after all where DOES one keep the cabbage?
Ducking and running,
Lady G
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 23 22:56:11 2002
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:30:36 -0800
Status: RO


boo! hiss!
--cin
> I've just had a horrible pun. I'm going to call my rag bag 
> "The Crisper", after all where DOES one keep the cabbage?
> Ducking and running,
> Lady G
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:36:09 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 23/1/02 10:31:46 PM, Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com writes:
<< boo! hiss!

--cin >>

{Bow, curtsey, acknowledging applause (and groans).} Sorry, I'm afflicted 
with them sometimes. The meds only help so far, I'm a mongrel garbster/herald 
mix.
Grins,
Lady G
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:53:37 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I asked:
> >Can you tell us whether the "undistorted"
> >position tends to place those elevated arms forward to some degree, rather
> >than straight out to the sides?

Heather replied:
> That seems to relate more to relative widths and shaping of the body 
> panels.  I haven't really experimented much with it, but I should 
> think that if you've got a relatively unshaped  body panel, equally 
> wide at front and back (e.g., the Bocksten tunic), then the 
> "undistorted" position would be with your arms positioned towards the 
> back of the normal range.  But if you start increasing the width of 
> the back panel relative to the front, either by extending the side 
> gussets up into the armscye (as in -- I think -- the Moselund tunic, 
> this  is from memory because I don't have the relevant description in 
> the database) or by cutting into the front panel (as in the 
> multiply-gored Herjolfsnes garments), or both, then you're going to 
> get more of a "natural" set towards the front.

OK, I wasn't clear. Let me try again. I'm not referring to the size of the
body panels, which governs the location of the armholes. I'm referring to
the shape and rotation of the sleeve within the armhole. This relates only
to set-in sleeves, where there's a part of the sleeve that's longer (at
the sleeve cap) and a part that's shorter (at the dip of the curve). We've
already discussed how the default position had the arms raised out from
the body to some degree, not hanging straight down. If your sleeve cap is
at the top of the shoulder, the neutral position of these sleeves/arms
would have them raised out to the sides. That is, if you are standing on a
clock face, facing toward the 12, your arms are rising up pointing at the
9 and the 3. But if your sleeve cap is rotated a bit toward the back of
the shoulder, the neutral position moves more in the direction of reaching
forward -- say, pointing toward the 10 and 2 on the clock face, or 11 and
1 for more of an extreme. The degree of forwardness and the degree of
elevation would depend on the combined factors of the height of the sleeve
cap and the rotation within the armhole.

This rotation factor is independent of the amount of fabric at the back or
front of the body section.

Put another way: The T-tunic shape doesn't allow for the forward motion,
and would automatically stick the arms out to the sides. The set-in sleeve
lets you move the default to the more natural somewhat-foward position of
the human arm. Did people take advantage of this as they developed the
set-in sleeve? I would think so, particularly if one reason for the
development of that cut was to remove the excess of fabric under the arm,
because that excess is greater at the front (where the dip should be
placed). But perhaps there was an intermediate stage where the t-tunic
shape was followed, and the rotation of the sleeve occurred later. I can
think of a reason this might have happened, but it is too hard to explain
without a blackboard, chalk, and eraser.

Did I do better this time?

--Robin

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:57:06 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Deb Rand <martyr@gti.net>
> 
> Okay so these all have an alarming, overly-melancholy tone. And that music
> re-enforces the forboding vibe.
> 
> The phrases it uses- "confidence shattered" "hopes and dreams-prevented"
> "considerable mental anguish and turmoil"
> Like something you'd expect in a suicide note, right?...

Or someone trying to sell you on _their_ form of life-management.
It actually reminds me of the Scientology "personality test" and
is probably about as accurate.  In fact, doing this in person with
cards would be extremely similar to doing a cold reading as a tarot
reader.  You watch their reactions to what you say, and tailor your
prefab pieces to their responses.

Color me skeptical.
Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:22:25 -0500
Status: RO

Penny asked:

>When I was in college, I took classes with both the costume design and the
>fashion design students.  The costume design students loved to share ideas
>and help one another.  The fashion design students were so scared someone
>would steal their brilliant idea of a creation.  Everything was a secret.
>So petty.  And the gossip was unreal!  I think that really stunted their
>creative growth.  I have also heard the arts & crafts industry is this
>scared/secretive group too.  Anyone have experience with the A&C industry?

I have some- I take classes and have done a couple of shows (small 
metals, mostly). It varies a lot. Some people are very open and 
generous, and others quite secretive. The amusing bits come when a 
secretive type decides to teach a class- you can almost see the smoke 
coming out of their ears as they plot out how little they can get 
away with sharing, or try to avoid thorough answers to questions that 
cross the bounds of what they;re willing to share! Not a good 
situation for those who paid for the class, of course.

So in metals, at least, it varies across the spectrum.

-Amanda
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:47:35 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 23/1/02 10:40:53 PM, lee@retro.com writes:
<< Color me skeptical.
Lee M.Thompson-Herbert >>

Ditto.
Lady G (who's not anything like the test said in reality and never was no 
matter WHAT Katie said, wait a minute...I thought it was Katydid not Katiesaid
, oh well I live in the country, things change faster in the real world, but 
I'd better have a talk with the bugs later, >BG<)
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ragbag thoughts...
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:56:55 -0800
Status: RO

ROFL I love it!


MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of LadyGryphon@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 8:24 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Ragbag thoughts...
>
>
> I've just had a horrible pun. I'm going to call my rag bag "The Crisper",
> after all where DOES one keep the cabbage?
> Ducking and running,
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 00:02:25 -0500
Status: RO

As we can see here, the psychological testing thing is often wrong.
But exactly how does the process of random color selection translate into
something like "you are miserable" or "alone, lonely, and unlikely to find
anyone to spend your life with?"
Why is the wording of the psych profiles so gloomy & pessimistic?
Obviously the Doc believes yellow-phoebic people are naturally
misanthropic-predisposed to miserable, unfulfilled lives as a result.
Is it something to do with warm vs cool colors?
Deb R.


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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:06:16 -0600
Status: RO

I did not, and you have no photographic proof!!  Because I have 
a friend at Wal-Marts photolab that lied and said the machine 
ate the prints and negitives!  HA!

*L*

LadyG wrote:
>snip< 
> I thought it was Katydid not Katiesaid
>
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 00:14:20 EST
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In a message dated 23/1/02 11:09:39 PM, nejma@tds.net writes:
<< I did not, and you have no photographic proof!!  Because I have 
a friend at Wal-Marts photolab that lied and said the machine 
ate the prints and negitives!  HA! >>

Aha but I DO have photographic proof AND signed affadivits (the camel 
talked). AND I've got a friend at Kodak... 
Snortle,
Lady G
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 23:22:01 -0600
Status: RO

Damn the luck!  

*L*

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 23/1/02 11:09:39 PM, nejma@tds.net writes:
> 
> Aha but I DO have photographic proof AND signed affadivits (the camel
> talked). AND I've got a friend at Kodak...
> Snortle,
> Lady G
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NDBBJKDNMPMECEIDCBGMAENNCNAA.maggiros@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 00:23:18 -0500
Status: RO

OFF-LIST

MaggiRos,

I was asking was the lady in the article your grandmother?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 10:11 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!


> To my grandmother?  Why yes, I am! :)
>
>
> MaggiRos
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 5:29 AM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
> >
> >
> > MaggiRos... are you kin to this lady????????
> >
> > Penny Ladnier
> > Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> > http://www.costumegallery.com
> > http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 3:20 AM
> > Subject: RE: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Maggie Secara
> > >
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> > > > Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 3:15 PM
> > > > To: h-costume
> > > > Subject: [h-cost] Here is the Associated Press Article!!!!!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Here is the article that the Associated Press interviewed me for.  I
am
> > > > quoted twice in the article, so look near the middle and near the
end.
> > The
> > > > article should show up in your newspaper within the next two weeks
in
> > the
> > > > fashion section. It went out on the AP wire on Jan. 21 to news
sources
> > > > around the world. Everyone please call your newspaper and ask them
to
> > run
> > > > the article.  If they do please save me a the entire page of the
> > newspaper.
> > > > I am making a large scrapbook of all the newspapers that run the
> > article.
> > > > Thanks, Penny
> > > >
> > >
> > > > Girls grew up fast. "Even my 15-year-old sister _ her real name was
> > > > Blossom but everybody called her Tootsie _
> > >
> > > My grandmother's name is Hortense, but her brothers all called her
> > Tootsie. :)
> > > She, through my mother, assures me that "The Sweetheart of Sigma Chi"
was
> > > written for her.
> > >
> > >
> > > MaggiRos
> > > ~My Pi Phi girl!/I love you best of all fraternities...
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 00:33:27 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 23/1/02 11:02:44 PM, martyr@gti.net writes:

<< Is it something to do with warm vs cool colors? >>

Never did follow the "winter, spring, summer, fall" colour thing. Thought it 
was a bit silly when it came out. I have a prejudice against the 
yellow/orange family after having spent 4.5 years in Orlando Fla (Orange 
Blossom Trail, Orange County, The Orange Tree etc). Over load in a big way. 
But it's never been my favorite family. Always been a purple fiend even when 
it wasn't popular and the only way I could get purple was to make it myself. 
In 1973 Sears carried a shades of purple bedspread and I was sooooo glad to 
get it. Oh well just part of being...
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:19:35 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:53 PM -0600 1/23/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>I asked:
>>  >Can you tell us whether the "undistorted"
>>  >position tends to place those elevated arms forward to some degree, rather
>>  >than straight out to the sides?
>
>Heather replied:

<with something irrelevant>

>OK, I wasn't clear. Let me try again. I'm not referring to the size of the
>body panels, which governs the location of the armholes. I'm referring to
>the shape and rotation of the sleeve within the armhole. This relates only
>to set-in sleeves, where there's a part of the sleeve that's longer (at
>the sleeve cap) and a part that's shorter (at the dip of the curve). We've
>already discussed how the default position had the arms raised out from
>the body to some degree, not hanging straight down. If your sleeve cap is
>at the top of the shoulder, the neutral position of these sleeves/arms
>would have them raised out to the sides. That is, if you are standing on a
>clock face, facing toward the 12, your arms are rising up pointing at the
>9 and the 3. But if your sleeve cap is rotated a bit toward the back of
>the shoulder, the neutral position moves more in the direction of reaching
>forward -- say, pointing toward the 10 and 2 on the clock face, or 11 and
>1 for more of an extreme. The degree of forwardness and the degree of
>elevation would depend on the combined factors of the height of the sleeve
>cap and the rotation within the armhole.


Ah <light dawns> ok, I know what you're talking about.  In fact, one 
of the things that puzzled me about some of the medieval shaped 
sleeves (but now I'm forgetting which one -- I think it may have been 
the Moselund, but I'll have to check diagrams) was that if you lined 
up the sleeve the way it seemed to want to line up (based on a couple 
of different factors), you had a inward curve cut on the sleeve (what 
on a modern sleeve would be the underarm position) rotated to the 
front and matching the inward curve of the front panel ... which 
seemed to place the "undistorted" position with the arms at the 
_forward_ end of the range of motion.  Let me go back and look at my 
diagrams and mock-ups so I'm sure which garment I'm talking about and 
I'll describe it better.


>This rotation factor is independent of the amount of fabric at the back or
>front of the body section.
>
>Put another way: The T-tunic shape doesn't allow for the forward motion,
>and would automatically stick the arms out to the sides. The set-in sleeve
>lets you move the default to the more natural somewhat-foward position of
>the human arm. Did people take advantage of this as they developed the
>set-in sleeve? I would think so, particularly if one reason for the
>development of that cut was to remove the excess of fabric under the arm,
>because that excess is greater at the front (where the dip should be
>placed). But perhaps there was an intermediate stage where the t-tunic
>shape was followed, and the rotation of the sleeve occurred later. I can
>think of a reason this might have happened, but it is too hard to explain
>without a blackboard, chalk, and eraser.

Problem is, not all the published descriptions of garments give a 
clear indication of how the sleeves were oriented in the armscye.  In 
a couple of examples, there's some indication due to actual angles in 
the sleeve edge that seem to match up with irregularities in the 
armscye (e.g. flat-topped underarm gusset meeting straight vertical 
back panel).  And when there's a serious tapering from elbow to 
wrist, it's really awkward if you line it up anywhere except along 
the outer edge of the elbow.  But otherwise, it depends on whether 
the person writing up the report mentions it specifically (or clearly 
indicates it in diagrams).

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 02:04:23 -0500
Status: RO

I think much of it is is based on the chakras.Yellow is the color of your solar
plexus chakra and is for happines, growth optimism, etc. people who are
depressed would be afriad or disinclined towards yellow in particular.
Yellow is good for curiosity, learning, getting your juices going both
learning and stomach.
Deb


> Never did follow the "winter, spring, summer, fall" colour thing. Thought it
> was a bit silly when it came out. I have a prejudice against the
> yellow/orange family after having spent 4.5 years in Orlando Fla (Orange
> Blossom Trail, Orange County, The Orange Tree etc). Over load in a big way._

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 02:28:29 -0500
Status: RO

hmm...... yellow was the last color I picked and my report came back with
nothing negative. I picked red, then purple, black, orange...

The first part of mine seemed like it didn't belong to the rest of the
report.  First paragraph said I was laid back.  Which really isn't me.  The
other paragraphs, was right on the target.  High energy and goal driven.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Deb Rand" <martyr@gti.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:04 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test


> I think much of it is is based on the chakras.Yellow is the color of your
solar
> plexus chakra and is for happines, growth optimism, etc. people who are
> depressed would be afriad or disinclined towards yellow in particular.
> Yellow is good for curiosity, learning, getting your juices going both
> learning and stomach.
> Deb
>
>
> > Never did follow the "winter, spring, summer, fall" colour thing.
Thought it
> > was a bit silly when it came out. I have a prejudice against the
> > yellow/orange family after having spent 4.5 years in Orlando Fla (Orange
> > Blossom Trail, Orange County, The Orange Tree etc). Over load in a big
way._
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test/1919 fashion colors
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 00:44:37 -0800
Status: RO


>Speaking of moving & of colors ... we will be moving into a 1919 house.
>(Calif high-style Craftsman; not the bungalow style.)  Can anyone pitch in
>with color ideas?  I'm having a terrible time finding sites with color
>pictures of original stuff.  'Bout ready to give up and just use the fashion
>colors of the day.  Problem there is that '19 is one of those transition
>times... not really 20's style, it's not Nouveau, it's not bold Deco, not
>war years & not classic teens look.  Help?

I have, here and unpacked, several books about houses/interiors/furnishings 
of this period, including a portfolio of repro wallpaper.

Kayta
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:Craftsman House/1919 fashion colors
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 01:00:11 -0800
Status: RO


Looks delicious! (Amazon has 20 sample pages & pics up.)  Thank you,
Theresa.  You're exactly right with the extensive woodwork & wainscotting.
(everywhere!)  Bare wood showing everywhere in that book ... ours must have
been painted 6 bazillion times.

DebR spake>That look would be pretty pricey to dupe, I'm guessing,
We'll be adding a lot of "sweat equity".

Kayta offered books>  yay! responded off list.

If anyone wants to lend us a medieval tapestry for the wall... maybe next
year?  <grin>
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo 

> I have a book called "In the Arts and Crafts Style", by Barbara Mayer,
> all about the houses and accoutrements of the era.  The interiors show
> either white/off-white walls (which may be a more contemporary
> treatment) to show off the extensive woodwork or really high
> wainscoating with wallpaper in William Morris-type prints. 
> The colors in
> the wallpapers are the kind you see in those faded medieval 
> tapestries -
> sagey green, off-brown, red in between brown and pink, faded gold, and
> light periwinkle.  I'm so envious of your new-old house and I hope you
> have a fabulous time decorating it.
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ragbag thoughts...
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 07:10:09 -0600
Status: RO

A bad pun is its own re-word.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 10:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Ragbag thoughts...


> I've just had a horrible pun. I'm going to call my rag bag "The Crisper",
> after all where DOES one keep the cabbage?
> Ducking and running,
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:Craftsman House/1919 fashion colors
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 03:02:47 -0800
Status: RO

Cyn - can't find sites?  I tried to keep this to textile sites, but the 
antique stores will have what period textiles they can get, and the 
bookstores will have books with pictures of period furnishing textiles in them.

(from the Fall/Winter 'Style 1900' magazine)

Prarie Textiles (www.annwallace.com) - repro textile stuff
The Craftsman Home, Berkeley (www.craftsmanhome.com) - antiques, etc.
The Gamble House, Pasadena (www.gamblehouse.org) - this is the big 
craftsman house featured in 'Back to the Future'
Willow Glen Books, and Willow Glen Kitchens, San Jose (www.willowglen.com)
Bradbury and Bradbury, Benicia (www.bradbury.com) - repro wallpaper
The Persian Carpet (www.artsandcraftscarpets.com)
Jax Arts and Crafts Rugs (jaxrugs.com)
Charles Rupert (www.charles-rupert.com) - wallpaper and fabrics
The Arts and Crafts Press, Berkeley? (www.artsandcraftspress.com)
Thistle Handworks (www.thistlehandworks.com) - repro textile stuff

(and there's a lace curtain place and a dress fabric place which must be in 
the other magazine)

'Style 1900' and 'American Craftsman' magazines are available at Barnes and 
Noble bookstores.

Cynthia Barnes writes, in a message sent 01:00 AM 1/24/02 -0800:

>Looks delicious! (Amazon has 20 sample pages & pics up.)  Thank you,
>Theresa.  You're exactly right with the extensive woodwork & wainscotting.
>(everywhere!)  Bare wood showing everywhere in that book ... ours must have
>been painted 6 bazillion times.
>
>DebR spake>That look would be pretty pricey to dupe, I'm guessing,
>We'll be adding a lot of "sweat equity".
>
>Kayta offered books>  yay! responded off list.
>
>If anyone wants to lend us a medieval tapestry for the wall... maybe next
>year?  <grin>
>--cin
>Cynthia in Tokyo
>
> > I have a book called "In the Arts and Crafts Style", by Barbara Mayer,
> > all about the houses and accoutrements of the era.  The interiors show
> > either white/off-white walls (which may be a more contemporary
> > treatment) to show off the extensive woodwork or really high
> > wainscoating with wallpaper in William Morris-type prints.
> > The colors in
> > the wallpapers are the kind you see in those faded medieval
> > tapestries -
> > sagey green, off-brown, red in between brown and pink, faded gold, and
> > light periwinkle.  I'm so envious of your new-old house and I hope you
> > have a fabulous time decorating it.
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:43:33 +0000
Status: RO


Jean Waddie wrote:
>Don't know if it's appropriate for the date, but I do endless lucet 
>cord, which is easy to do even when people talk to you.  Hubby uses it 
>to hold up his mail leggings, and at least one piece breaks in every 
>battle.  Just-in-time mending techniques!

I find that lucet-ing (?) in a 17th century LH camp attracts almost as much interest from the public as playing music does, even when I'm not the only person doing it.

PS Sent www.dabbler.com/ndlwrk/stocking.html direct to the original enquirer, as requested.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: [h-cost] Merveilleuse Muck Up
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:48:25 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I promised you some photos of my version of the Merveilleuse Dress from 
1803.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/regency.htm

Bjarne

-- 


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT: A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:20:47 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, same sort of discrepancy with me (although I'm starting to forget
the specifics), although reversed.  The first part was eerily spot-on,
and the last bit (where they were describing as management material) not
only really didn't have anything to do with the rest of it, but was
_really_ not me.  I'm good at a lot of things, but managing other people
is *not* one of them.
--Sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> hmm...... yellow was the last color I picked and my report came back with
> nothing negative. I picked red, then purple, black, orange...
> 
> The first part of mine seemed like it didn't belong to the rest of the
> report.  First paragraph said I was laid back.  Which really isn't me.  The
> other paragraphs, was right on the target.  High energy and goal driven.
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:33:08 -0700
Status: RO

***GROAN****
Bad costumer, _no_ biscuit.....
--Sue (who fears that one day, she'll make one too many puns, and
someone will make her a herald <G>)

Greg and Dianne Stucki wrote:
> 
> A bad pun is its own re-word.
> 
> Dianne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 10:24 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Ragbag thoughts...
> 
> > I've just had a horrible pun. I'm going to call my rag bag "The Crisper",
> > after all where DOES one keep the cabbage?
> > Ducking and running,
> > Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:30:47 -0600
Status: RO

>In a message dated 23/1/02 11:02:44 PM, martyr@gti.net writes:
>
><< Is it something to do with warm vs cool colors? >>
>
>Never did follow the "winter, spring, summer, fall" colour thing.

What I thought was interesting about the "winter, spring, summer, fall" colour schemes was that I was already pretty much wearing those colours.  I had a few items that were in other colours that I never wore, they just were never "right" when I pulled them out.  

Now, there are certain colours that I'm told I can wear, but I refuse to.  
Alexandria
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:06:04 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 24/1/02 9:29:46 AM, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:
<< --Sue (who fears that one day, she'll make one too many puns, and
someone will make her a herald <G>) >>

Sue, you make that sound like a PUNishment. Besides, if someone makes you a 
Herald that would be a good thing, think of all the work you could make 
him/her do and you could get more sewing done in your new spare time.
Grins,
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:12:00 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 24/1/02 9:37:52 AM, dragonlair@wireweb.net writes:
<< Now, there are certain colours that I'm told I can wear, but I refuse to.  
Alexandria >>

People tell me I look good in teal or yellow or any shade of orange (I will 
make a consession to orange with rust but it has to be a brownish rust), 
personally those are 3 colours I wouldn't even be buried in. I also won't 
wear blue and gold together. School uniforms will do that to you. I 
steadfastly refuse to wear my skirts at knee level. Short is fine, ankle 
length is fine, just not knee length.
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:15:09 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 24/1/02 6:12:36 AM, goofy1@suscom.net writes:
<< A bad pun is its own re-word.

Dianne >>

If you teach a punster to sew you'll be able to keep each other in stitches, 
on several levels.
Running, ducking and hiding,
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:36:19 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO



On Wed, 23 Jan 2002, Karen Heim wrote:

> I'm sure IKEA is great, if you live near a store (since the online 
> catalog admits that there is more to see in the store than they show 
> you), OR if you can get them to send you a D**N catalog!  I've tried 
> several times to get a catalog sent to me (since the nearest store is in 
> Chicagoland), but NOOO, they aren't interested in my money.

We drive 5 hours to the nearest IKEA.  In Pittsburg.  :)  I've heard bad
things about their mailorder service, but the store is fantastic!

Drea

> 
> Karen (grumbling to no one in particular)
> 
> aleed wrote:
> 
> >
> >I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet tall,
> >are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of
> >different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable
> >cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place the
> >shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a whole
> >wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built in.
> >
> >Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)
> >
> 
> 


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In a message dated 1/24/02 11:17:03 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
LadyGryphon@aol.com writes:


> 
> If you teach a punster to sew you'll be able to keep each other in 
> stitches, 
> on several levels.
> Running, ducking and hiding,
> 

             And well you should !
Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/24/02 11:17:03 AM Eastern Standard Time, LadyGryphon@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR>If you teach a punster to sew you'll be able to keep each other in stitches, 
<BR>on several levels.
<BR>Running, ducking and hiding,
<BR>Lady G</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;And well you should !
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:51:48 EST
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In a message dated 24/1/02 10:49:55 AM, LalahTT@aol.com writes:

>Running, ducking and hiding, Lady G<
>>And well you should ! Lalah<<

Hey at least I'm multi-talented enough to do 3 things at once. See?
Run, duck, hide.
Lady G
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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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--- Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu> wrote:
> 
> This test is based on a pretty well known
> psychological diagnostics tool 
> called the Luscher Color Test.
> 
> The colors
> are not true; i.e. the 
> red isn't primary red but a tomato red.  Carl
> Luscher's choose the off 
> colors specifically, for a variety of reasons. 


Hmm, the specific shade of the color is important, but
every computer moniter displays shades slightly
differently.  I would expect this would lower whatever
validity this test had in the first place. 

For example, most oranges I don't like a whole lot,
but this one showed up on my screen like a rust-brown,
barely deserving of the name "orange", and I did kinda
like it.

-Angela

P.S. The site didn't work for me either.  I pick one
color, it says it's generating my personal profile,
and then it gives me a screen saying it hopes that was
informative and would I like to try again.  I'll have
to try it on a different computer.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
http://auctions.yahoo.com
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       Do you run, duck and hide all at the same time, or one at a time in 
that order?

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Do you run, duck and hide all at the same time, or one at a time in that order?
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:17:54 -0600
Status: RO

Wow! That is beautiful Bjarne! 

*le sigh* I wish I could wear dresses with trains.

Katie

Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi.
> I promised you some photos of my version of the Merveilleuse Dress from
> 1803.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/regency.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> --
> 
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
> 
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
> 
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
> 
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> 
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:21:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

It's a good thing I know that I'm content with life
and happily married, because the test basically told
me that I'm miserable, fearful and alone!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:21:10 -0800
Status: RO

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Congratulations on the house!

Now this is something I do know.  There is a paint company that does a 
color line specifically for restoration house. The color ways are broken 
down into eras.    Shermin William has one called the Preservation Palette 
that contains actual color developed by the American Life Foundation from 
period sources.  I'm pretty sure
  Standard Brands has one titled "The American Heritage Collection".   Here 
is one website with photos of restoration exterior paint 
http://www.arts-crafts.com/market/robs/early20.html (I love the 1917 
American Foursquare).   When you really begin to go into restoration mode, 
ask your local historical society for references.They should be able to 
hook you up with paint contractors with a better feel for the esthetic of 
the period.

If you decide to go for broke and wallpaper, I can't praise Bradbury & 
Bradbury enough http://www.bradbury.com/.  It just doesn't get any better.

When I began restoring my house, I collected a ton of links which are, of 
course, all stored on my home computer. They include everything from 
reproduction rugs and restoration hardware to garden supplies and even some 
reproduction furniture and lighting.  I can send them to you in an html 
file (I think) and to anyone else who wants them.

As to the style of the house, there are a couple of things you can do to 
identify it.  My first guess would be that it's a kit house.  I can give 
you some pointers as to how to tell if it was.  Just drop me a note off the 
list and I'll try to give you a hand.  Also, here is a very brief 
introduction to architecture types of the 
period:  http://www.ragtime.org/arch/index.html.  That should hopefully 
help you identify what is a distinguishing characteristic and what isn't.

And then of course once you finish working on the house, you have to begin 
collecting all the clothing from the period too >; )

At 04:54 PM 1/23/2002 -0800, you wrote:

>Speaking of moving & of colors ... we will be moving into a 1919 house.
>(Calif high-style Craftsman; not the bungalow style.)  Can anyone pitch in
>with color ideas?  I'm having a terrible time finding sites with color
>pictures of original stuff.  'Bout ready to give up and just use the fashion
>colors of the day.  Problem there is that '19 is one of those transition
>times... not really 20's style, it's not Nouveau, it's not bold Deco, not
>war years & not classic teens look.  Help?
>--cin
>In Tokyo, but not for very much longer

Gwyn Carnegie;  who now owns too many 1900 to 1925 hats - everyone has to 
have a weakness >; )
University of California, Davis


--=====================_4965062==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica"><br>
Congratulations on the house!&nbsp; <br><br>
Now this is something I do know.&nbsp; There is a paint company that does
a color line specifically for restoration house. The color ways are
broken down into eras.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Shermin William has one called
the Preservation Palette that contains actual color developed by the
American Life Foundation from period sources.&nbsp; I'm pretty sure 
<br>
&nbsp;Standard Brands has one titled &quot;The American Heritage
Collection&quot;.&nbsp;&nbsp; Here is one website with photos of
restoration exterior paint
<a href="http://www.arts-crafts.com/market/robs/early20.html" eudora="autourl">http://www.arts-crafts.com/market/robs/early20.html</a>
(I love the 1917 American Foursquare).&nbsp;&nbsp; When you really begin to go into restoration mode, ask your local historical society for references.They should be able to hook you up with paint contractors with a better feel for the esthetic of the period.&nbsp; <br><br>
If you decide to go for broke and wallpaper, I can't praise Bradbury &amp; Bradbury enough <a href="http://www.bradbury.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.bradbury.com/</a>.&nbsp; It just doesn't get any better.<br><br>
When I began restoring my house, I collected a ton of links which are, of course, all stored on my home computer. They include everything from reproduction rugs and restoration hardware to garden supplies and even some reproduction furniture and lighting.&nbsp; I can send them to you in an html file (I think) and to anyone else who wants them.<br><br>
As to the style of the house, there are a couple of things you can do to identify it.&nbsp; My first guess would be that it's a kit house.&nbsp; I can give you some pointers as to how to tell if it was.&nbsp; Just drop me a note off the list and I'll try to give you a hand.&nbsp; Also, here is a very brief introduction to architecture types of the period:&nbsp; <a href="http://www.ragtime.org/arch/index.html" eudora="autourl">http://www.ragtime.org/arch/index.html</a>.&nbsp; That should hopefully help you identify what is a distinguishing characteristic and what isn't.<br><br>
And then of course once you finish working on the house, you have to begin collecting all the clothing from the period too &gt;; )<br><br>
At 04:54 PM 1/23/2002 -0800, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Speaking of moving &amp; of colors ... we will be moving into a 1919 house.<br>
(Calif high-style Craftsman; not the bungalow style.)&nbsp; Can anyone pitch in<br>
with color ideas?&nbsp; I'm having a terrible time finding sites with color<br>
pictures of original stuff.&nbsp; 'Bout ready to give up and just use the fashion<br>
colors of the day.&nbsp; Problem there is that '19 is one of those transition<br>
times... not really 20's style, it's not Nouveau, it's not bold Deco, not<br>
war years &amp; not classic teens look.&nbsp; Help?<br>
--cin<br>
In Tokyo, but not for very much longer<br>
</font></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica" color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie;&nbsp; </b></font><font face="Arial, Helvetica">who now owns too many 1900 to 1925 hats - everyone has to have a weakness &gt;; )<br>
<b>University of California, Davis <br><br>
</font></b></html>

--=====================_4965062==_.ALT--

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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:28:22 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 24/1/02 11:19:27 AM, LalahTT@aol.com writes:
<< Do you run, duck and hide all at the same time, or one at a time in that 
order?
Lalah >>

Actually I can do all three at the same time and am generally changing 
colours while I'm doing it.
Big Grins,
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:46:29 -0800
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Absolutely Fabulous Bjarne!  I'm in awe of the embroidery.

Did anyone catch the fontage in the background?  I love those things.

At 03:48 PM 1/24/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi.
>I promised you some photos of my version of the Merveilleuse Dress from 1803.
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/regency.htm
>
>Bjarne

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

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<html>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica"><br>
Absolutely Fabulous Bjarne!&nbsp; I'm in awe of the embroidery.&nbsp;
<br><br>
Did anyone catch the fontage in the background?&nbsp; I love those
things.<br><br>
At 03:48 PM 1/24/2002 +0100, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Hi.<br>
I promised you some photos of my version of the Merveilleuse Dress from
1803.<br>
<a href="http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/regency.htm" eudora="autourl">http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/regency.htm</a><br><br>
Bjarne</font></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica" color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font face="Arial, Helvetica">University of California, Davis
<br>
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:53:13 -0600
Status: RO

I find that lucet-ing (?) in a 17th century LH camp attracts almost as much interest from the public as playing music does, even when I'm not the only person doing it.

PS Sent www.dabbler.com/ndlwrk/stocking.html direct to the original enquirer, as requested.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

I got my whole camp doing this at a war last summer.  The cords came in *very* handy for repairs after a blow knocked a lot of tents down.  A piece was also used as a last-minute lacing for someone who was late to court :).  I have found it handy to keep one lucet going with a lt-weight cotton and use the resulting cord for shirt ties.  Much better than ribbons, they never come undone!

I was doing this at Renfaire one time and a patron said it was the same method her family had used during the depression to make shoelaces but they used scraps of string and a big two-pronged kitchen fork :).

Catherine

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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 10:04:09 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

my housemate and I used to rent a truck and drive to southern california about 
once every 18 months to hit the IKEAs there - about a 7 hour drive. 
Now there's one int he Bay Area, I go every few months, cause I'm a junkie
too.  I had a party when the bay area IKEA opened.  :)


.heather.


> 
> 
> On Wed, 23 Jan 2002, Karen Heim wrote:
> 
> > I'm sure IKEA is great, if you live near a store (since the online 
> > catalog admits that there is more to see in the store than they show 
> > you), OR if you can get them to send you a D**N catalog!  I've tried 
> > several times to get a catalog sent to me (since the nearest store is in 
> > Chicagoland), but NOOO, they aren't interested in my money.
> 
> We drive 5 hours to the nearest IKEA.  In Pittsburg.  :)  I've heard bad
> things about their mailorder service, but the store is fantastic!
> 
> Drea
> 
> > 
> > Karen (grumbling to no one in particular)
> > 
> > aleed wrote:
> > 
> > >
> > >I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet tall,
> > >are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of
> > >different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable
> > >cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place the
> > >shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a whole
> > >wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built in.
> > >
> > >Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)
> > >
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Craftsmans 1919 fashion colors
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Date: 24 Jan 2002 13:25:23 PST
Status: RO

Cin,

The Greene Brothers built many such homes in California AND they were
fascinated by Japanese design, colors, etc. What a coincidence, eh? Not
really, it was still all the rage... Here is their home page:
http://thunder.sonic.net/~mityam/index.html
It might be a good place to start. Most original linens, furnishings, etc.
that I come across are earth and jewel tones - typical craftsman.

Shea  

Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com> wrote:
 
> Speaking of moving & of colors ... we will be moving into a 1919 house.
> (Calif high-style Craftsman; not the bungalow style.)  Can anyone pitch > in
with color ideas?  


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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitting at ren. faires
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:04:39 +0000
Status: RO

Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu> wrote
>I find that lucet-ing (?) in a 17th century LH camp attracts almost as 
>much interest from the public as playing music does, even when I'm not 
>the only person doing it.
>
>PS Sent www.dabbler.com/ndlwrk/stocking.html direct to the original 
>enquirer, as requested.
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
>
>I got my whole camp doing this at a war last summer.  The cords came in 
>*very* handy for repairs after a blow knocked a lot of tents down.  A 
>piece was also used as a last-minute lacing for someone who was late to 
>court :).  I have found it handy to keep one lucet going with a 
>lt-weight cotton and use the resulting cord for shirt ties.  Much 
>better than ribbons, they never come undone!
>
>I was doing this at Renfaire one time and a patron said it was the same 
>method her family had used during the depression to make shoelaces but 
>they used scraps of string and a big two-pronged kitchen fork :).
>
>Catherine

People always ask "what are you making, what's it for", and my response 
is "string".  I explain that it's much stronger than just a spun thread, 
and you can use it for anything you need to tie.

"String, string, string string, everybody needs string..."

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:19:28 -0500
Status: RO

On 24 Jan 02, at 20:04, Jean Waddie wrote:
e
> 
> People always ask "what are you making, what's it for", and my
> response is "string".  I explain that it's much stronger than just a
> spun thread, and you can use it for anything you need to tie.
> 
> "String, string, string string, everybody needs string..."
> 
> Jean

I always say I'm making big string out of little string... ;-)

--Jessica
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:33:28 -0500
Status: RO

At 08:27 PM 01/23/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Speaking of camel dung, that's what the results are. All 
>it really proves is I like purples and abhor orange! Does that mean purple 
>people are nicer than orange people? Somehow I doubt it. Did the oranges get 
>"worse scores" than the purple people did? SPILL!

I think I got the results I did because I picked red first, then green...
Someone decided that these are disharmonious, anti-social colors, and
therefore the results are skewed.  Not fair, if you ask me.  I bet the
people who got 'nice' results picked blue first.

-- Mara

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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:37:37 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:52 PM 01/23/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Gawd, what would that about those of us who have a sort of
>generic-mongrel-Heinz57-british-isles type of ethnic background....?
>Sue, WASP-ish far enough back to wear yellow and black stripes...;-P

Beats the heck out of me, since I fall in that category, too :D  I think
the study was done in England, in areas where the population base isn't so
mixed as it is in the States.

-- Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:44:56 -0500
Status: RO

I picked, red, then green, then grey, then brown, or something like that.
Got results that said I was going through a lot of turmoil (snort). 

This reminds me of the experiment where a prof. gave everyone in his class
a horoscope that, he told them, had been done just for them, based on their
birthdate, and told them to rate it on a 1 to 10 scale for accuracy.  They
all rated it pretty highly.  Then he had them pass it to the person behind
them in the row of seats.  They were all the same horoscope.

We read what we want to into these things.

-- Mara

At 02:28 AM 01/24/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>hmm...... yellow was the last color I picked and my report came back with
>nothing negative. I picked red, then purple, black, orange...
>
>The first part of mine seemed like it didn't belong to the rest of the
>report.  First paragraph said I was laid back.  Which really isn't me.  The
>other paragraphs, was right on the target.  High energy and goal driven.
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>


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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Merveilleuse Muck Up
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:49:24 -0500
Status: RO

At 03:48 PM 01/24/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi.
>I promised you some photos of my version of the Merveilleuse Dress from 
>1803.
> >http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/regency.htm
>
>Bjarne

It's beautiful, Bjarne!  Thanks for sharing,

Mara

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 14:58:00 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net> wrote:
> I think I got the results I did because I picked red
> first, then green...Someone decided that these are
>disharmonious, anti-social colors, and therefore the
>results are skewed.  
> -- Mara

I picked green first, then red, then black and the
program decided that I am a lonely unhappy
misanthrope!
I'll cop to "crabby", but I really have to draw the
line at "misanthropic."  ;-)

Seriously, I'm glad I'm in good mental health, because
if I was "on the edge" and then got that report about
how miserable I supposedly am, it could really do some
damage.

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

__________________________________________________
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:59:45 GMT
Status: RO

On Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:33:28 -0500, the following was written in this
electric book by Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>:

>At 08:27 PM 01/23/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>>Speaking of camel dung, that's what the results are. All 
>>it really proves is I like purples and abhor orange! Does that mean purple 
>>people are nicer than orange people? Somehow I doubt it. Did the oranges get 
>>"worse scores" than the purple people did? SPILL!
>
>I think I got the results I did because I picked red first, then green...
>Someone decided that these are disharmonious, anti-social colors, and
>therefore the results are skewed.  Not fair, if you ask me.  I bet the
>people who got 'nice' results picked blue first.

Nope. Blue is my favorite colour. I'm one of those that is supposed to
be lonely, alone, and hopeloess fo finding anyone to be with, which is
false. :P

Maura Bass
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:10:47 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 24/1/02 4:41:34 PM, lindo@radix.net writes:
<<I bet the people who got 'nice' results picked blue first. >>

I picked purple, blue, black, red, grey, green, yellow, and the nasty orange. 
All the colours that were listed as "depressing" colours when I was growing 
up first and the "upbeat cheerful" colours last and got rave reviews. I may 
not have the grey, green and yellow in the right order but I did have them in 
the middle.
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 16:33:47 -0800
Status: RO


Any more like this and I'll need serger-y.
--cin in tokyo
> If you teach a punster to sew you'll be able to keep each 
> other in stitches, on several levels.
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:04:27 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 24/1/02 6:35:42 PM, Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com writes:
<< Any more like this and I'll need serger-y.

--cin in tokyo >>

Sorry Cin, didn't mean to keep needling you and sew will do my best to clip 
this thread. I know it's hard to pin down a punster. Sometimes it seams like 
once the pattern gets started there's just no end to it.
Grins,
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ragbag thoughts...
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:40:54 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Don't you mean, it' seams like there's no finish?


> In a message dated 24/1/02 6:35:42 PM, Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com writes:
> << Any more like this and I'll need serger-y.
> 
> --cin in tokyo >>
> 
> Sorry Cin, didn't mean to keep needling you and sew will do my best to clip 
> this thread. I know it's hard to pin down a punster. Sometimes it seams like 
> once the pattern gets started there's just no end to it.
> Grins,
> Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:51:43 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 24/1/02 7:42:16 PM, alice@wonderland.com writes:
<< Don't you mean, it' seams like there's no finish? >>

We've got to stop punning, we'll bias people against us, then where will we 
be?
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:54:59 EST
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In a message dated 1/24/02 5:53:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
LadyGryphon@aol.com writes:


> We've got to stop punning, we'll bias people against us, then where will we 
> be?
> Lady G
> 

or bee?

Katrin (who also cottons to a good pun)

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#0000a0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>In a message dated 1/24/02 5:53:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, LadyGryphon@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></B>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">We've got to stop punning, we'll bias people against us, then where will we 
<BR>be?
<BR>Lady G
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#0000a0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>
<BR>or bee?
<BR>
<BR>Katrin (who also cottons to a good pun)</B></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitting again
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 21:17:26 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 22 Jan 2002, Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> I have a questions regarding the knitting madonna's and other
> representations of knitting prior to 1600, when knitting in the round,
> how many needles were they using?

I don't know anything about knitting, but this does give me a great
opening to plug one of the DISTAFF sessions at the International Medieval
Congress at Kalamazoo this May. We're having a session just on medieval
knitting & other non-woven textiles. Anne Reaves, who is accomplished at
medieval knitting techniques, will be talking on "The Iconography of
Knitting Madonnas." The other speakers are Chris Laning on "Motifs and
Technology in Knitted Silk Purses of the 14th Century," and Anne Marie
Decker on "The Forgotten Technique of Nalbinding." All three women are
known to some members of this list.

--Robin

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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 21:12:13 -0500
Status: RO

Drea, you say you are only 5 hours from Pittsburgh.  What town?  I am from
Pittsburgh, although I do not live there at present.
-Megan McHugh

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of aleed
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:36 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage




On Wed, 23 Jan 2002, Karen Heim wrote:

> I'm sure IKEA is great, if you live near a store (since the online
> catalog admits that there is more to see in the store than they show
> you), OR if you can get them to send you a D**N catalog!  I've tried
> several times to get a catalog sent to me (since the nearest store is in
> Chicagoland), but NOOO, they aren't interested in my money.

We drive 5 hours to the nearest IKEA.  In Pittsburg.  :)  I've heard bad
things about their mailorder service, but the store is fantastic!

Drea

>
> Karen (grumbling to no one in particular)
>
> aleed wrote:
>
> >
> >I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet tall,
> >are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of
> >different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable
> >cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place the
> >shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a whole
> >wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built in.
> >
> >Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)
> >
>
>


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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:22:38 -0800
Status: RO


Sizing up my rivals for a good dressing down... Ahem:

Ladies, this bombast is not in good seaming; allowances can be made for
polite, well reasoned material. We, I feel, muslin mitt, off the cuff,
blanket statements. Wool we to press on in such a fashion, our happy group
shawl come apart at the seams. I shell, to the baste of my ability, maintain
a measured response.
And voile-la, there, you have it,
--cin

<previous darts & picks chalked up to experience>
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1919 fashion colors/ Craftsman 
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:36:45 -0800
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Marie, Gwyn, Kayta, Shea,
I'm overwhelmed with the amount of fabulous info. Thanks all very much.
Somewhere between the mentions of Japanoiserie and wallpaper, I remembered a
couple of guys I'd met at a Providence RI Dance week. Here's an interesting
little textile that I happened to find on their site.
<http://www.burrows.com/carplace.html> http://www.burrows.com/carplace.html
Repro, of course, but charming.
 
Of course I'd love all your links, Marie.  Once the moving boxes arrive,
that's the end of the sewing machine, the fabric, the books & costume
projects for a while. I'll have plenty of time to surf!
 
>And then of course once you finish working on the house, you have to
>begin collecting all the clothing from the period too 
>Gwyn Carnegie;  who now owns too many 1900 to 1925 hats - everyone 
>has to have a weakness >;
 
Oh, cruel temptress cease & desist!   Actually, I do have this odd little
dress from a great aunt that's quite possibly late teens.. Approx mid-calf
to ankle length. Waist seam, close to true waist position.  Black airy-fairy
lace/net with very little design; narrow silk satin tubes (not piping, cuz
it's not only in the seams or as edge bindings.) It's too fragile to wear,
but what would have gone under it?  I'm sorry, I dont have a photo or even a
very good mental picture of it.  It's been a while.
 
(Off-topic Craftsman era architectural detail taken off list, in the
interest of politeness.)
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo
 
 

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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=680013101-25012002>Marie, Gwyn, Kayta, 
Shea,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=680013101-25012002><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm overwhelmed with 
the amount of fabulous info. Thanks all very much.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN class=680013101-25012002>Somewhere 
between the mentions of Japanoiserie and wallpaper, I remembered&nbsp;a couple 
of guys I'd met at a Providence RI Dance week.&nbsp;</SPAN><SPAN 
class=680013101-25012002>Here's an interesting little textile that I happened to 
find on their site.&nbsp; </SPAN><SPAN class=680013101-25012002><A 
href="http://www.burrows.com/carplace.html"><FONT 
color=#000000>http://www.burrows.com/carplace.html</FONT></A>&nbsp;Repro, of 
course, but charming.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN 
class=680013101-25012002></SPAN></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=680013101-25012002>Of course I'd love 
all your links, Marie.&nbsp; Once the moving boxes arrive, that's the end of the 
sewing machine, the fabric, the books &amp; costume projects for a&nbsp;while. 
I'll have plenty of time to surf!</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN 
class=680013101-25012002></SPAN></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=680013101-25012002>&gt;And then of 
course once you finish working on the house, you have to</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=680013101-25012002>&gt;begin collecting 
all the clothing from the period too </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=680013101-25012002><FONT size=2>&gt;Gwyn 
Carnegie;&nbsp; </FONT><FONT face="Arial, Helvetica"><FONT size=2>who now owns 
too many 1900 to 1925 hats - everyone </FONT></FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=680013101-25012002><FONT 
face="Arial, Helvetica"><FONT size=2>&gt;has to have a weakness 
&gt;;</FONT></FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=680013101-25012002><FONT 
face="Arial, Helvetica"><FONT size=2>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></FONT></SPAN></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=680013101-25012002><FONT 
face="Arial, Helvetica"><FONT size=2>Oh, cruel temptress cease &amp; 
desist!&nbsp; &nbsp;Actually, I do have this odd little dress from a great aunt 
that's quite possibly late teens.. Approx&nbsp;mid-calf to ankle 
length.&nbsp;Waist seam, close to true waist position. &nbsp;Black airy-fairy 
lace/net with very little design; narrow silk satin tubes (not piping, cuz it's 
not only&nbsp;in the seams or as edge bindings.) It's too fragile to wear, but 
what would have gone under it?&nbsp; I'm sorry, I dont have a photo or even a 
very good mental picture of it.&nbsp; It's been a 
while.</FONT></FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=680013101-25012002><FONT 
face="Arial, Helvetica"><FONT size=2>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></FONT></SPAN></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>
<DIV><SPAN class=680013101-25012002><FONT face=Arial size=2>(Off-topic Craftsman 
era architectural detail taken off list, in the interest of 
politeness.)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>--cin</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=680013101-25012002></SPAN><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2>C<SPAN 
class=680013101-25012002>ynthia in Tokyo</SPAN></FONT></FONT><BR><SPAN 
class=680013101-25012002><FONT size=2>&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=680013101-25012002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Daniel Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
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Subject: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:47:24 -0800
Status: RO

Here is a pic with my finished Cote and my ladies finished Gown from 12th
Night. Her gown is made basically from Mistress Cori's instructions (
http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/corikirtle.html ), although could
be a bit tighter.

http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/_2002_006_12.html

The plaque belts are from Raymond's Quiet Press, the linen chause are from
Historic Enterprises as are the shoes that you can't see in this pic.

Dan





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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:11:38 -0700
Status: RO

All of you are just *warped*.....
--Maire, not about to zip her lip where puns are concerned, it seams
like...... <beg>

Heather Meadows wrote:
> 
> Don't you mean, it' seams like there's no finish?
> 
> > In a message dated 24/1/02 6:35:42 PM, Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com writes:
> > << Any more like this and I'll need serger-y.
> >
> > --cin in tokyo >>
> >
> > Sorry Cin, didn't mean to keep needling you and sew will do my best to clip
> > this thread. I know it's hard to pin down a punster. Sometimes it seams like
> > once the pattern gets started there's just no end to it.
> > Grins,
> > Lady G
> > _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 00:59:41 EST
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In a message dated 24/1/02 11:10:02 PM, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:
<< All of you are just *warped*.....
--Maire, not about to zip her lip where puns are concerned, it seams
like...... <beg> >>

Warped and not about to be weft out! Some of the tension could be cut out if 
we could just shuttle the topic to the correct thread. Then we could bind the 
edges seamlessly and we'd be in the pink tho perhaps a bit guimpy after our 
fray. But we do do it for the pun of it so it's okay.
Love,
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:40:05 -0800
Status: RO


Cease with no doily, laced we be told to get stuffed, get upbraided or even
dis-iron-ered!
These puns! They starch getting on my nerves mannekin it taffeta to
concentrate.  Distaff has dis-organdy-ized my workday. I plaid enough and
bow out, weaving my unravelled opponents. I hope they will not cut each
other to ribbons!

--cin

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1919 fashion colors (was RE: A Teddy Fan Club Test/1919 fashion colors)
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:44:14 -0800
Status: RO

After some very good notes on color, Gwyn signed herself
>>>Gwyn Carnegie;  who now owns too many 1900 to 1925 hats - everyone has to
have a weakness >; )
>>>

To which I reply, that like shoes, there is no such thing as too many hats, and
1900-1925 --especially the 20s--got all my favorites.  Don't have any, just
appreciate from afar!

MaggiRos


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Subject: [h-cost] too many shoes
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 01:11:37 -0800
Status: RO

I actually do have too many shoes.  I'm having to pay storage on them, 
along with all my other stuff, and I don't know what to do with them.  I 
will be keeping some historical ones, and most of, if not all of, my ethnic 
ones.  But what do I do with all the extra historical ones?  Must I hassle 
with selling them?  Do any museums really want them?  Now what?

>After some very good notes on color, Gwyn signed herself
> >>>Gwyn Carnegie;  who now owns too many 1900 to 1925 hats - everyone has to
>have a weakness >; )
> >>>
>
>To which I reply, that like shoes, there is no such thing as too many 
>hats, and
>1900-1925 --especially the 20s--got all my favorites.  Don't have any, just
>appreciate from afar!


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:39:00 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


Springfield, OH.  5 hours due west.

Drea

On Thu, 24 Jan 2002, Megan M. wrote:

> Drea, you say you are only 5 hours from Pittsburgh.  What town?  I am from
> Pittsburgh, although I do not live there at present.
> -Megan McHugh
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of aleed
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:36 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, 23 Jan 2002, Karen Heim wrote:
> 
> > I'm sure IKEA is great, if you live near a store (since the online
> > catalog admits that there is more to see in the store than they show
> > you), OR if you can get them to send you a D**N catalog!  I've tried
> > several times to get a catalog sent to me (since the nearest store is in
> > Chicagoland), but NOOO, they aren't interested in my money.
> 
> We drive 5 hours to the nearest IKEA.  In Pittsburg.  :)  I've heard bad
> things about their mailorder service, but the store is fantastic!
> 
> Drea
> 
> >
> > Karen (grumbling to no one in particular)
> >
> > aleed wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet tall,
> > >are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of
> > >different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable
> > >cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place the
> > >shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a whole
> > >wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built in.
> > >
> > >Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)
> > >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Jan 25 09:54:11 2002
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:28:13 -0600
Status: RO

"String, string, string string, everybody needs string..."

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

ROTFL!  I keep one lucet going at all times using a cotton tatting thread to make neck and wrist ties for shirts.  They work *so* much better than anything else I have found, they will stay tied together even through a long day at faire.  I had fun one year getting the spinners to give me short lengths of different yarns to try out.  Alpaca was so soft to work with!

Funny this should come up right now.  I was at the local EGA meeting last night and someone had a lucet they didn't know how to use so I gave them a quick lesson.  I am now supposed to bring mine next month for more lessons :).

Catherine

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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 07:47:16 -0800
Status: RO

At 01:11 AM 01/25/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>I actually do have too many shoes.  I'm having to pay storage on them, 
>along with all my other stuff, and I don't know what to do with them.  I 
>will be keeping some historical ones, and most of, if not all of, my ethnic 
>ones.  But what do I do with all the extra historical ones?  Must I hassle 
>with selling them?  Do any museums really want them?  Now what?

Last I heard, Tara of The Costumer's Maifesto site was soliciting donations
of shoes to her university theater department.

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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From: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] too many shoes
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 11:18:04 -0600
Status: RO

At 07:47 AM 1/25/2002 -0800, Margo@margospatterns.com wrote:
>At 01:11 AM 01/25/2002 -0800, you wrote:
> >I actually do have too many shoes.  I'm having to pay storage on them,
> >along with all my other stuff, and I don't know what to do with them.  I
> >will be keeping some historical ones, and most of, if not all of, my ethnic
> >ones.  But what do I do with all the extra historical ones?  Must I hassle
> >with selling them?  Do any museums really want them?  Now what?
>
>Last I heard, Tara of The Costumer's Maifesto site was soliciting donations
>of shoes to her university theater department.
>
>Margo

And there is always this list of US .....   most of us have to be fond
of shoes too.   If you put up photos of them,   I bet you'd find takers
(free or for $)  for many of them!
Deb Baddorf

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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:24:38 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


I'm buying some unfinished bookcases, and plan to finish them myself.
They're going to be holding some really pricy and really old books--some
over 200 years old.  Does anyone know what finishes I should use or avoid?
Is linseed oil OK, or should I use polyurethane? Will having glass doors
on the front help preserve them, or should they get some air flow?

Rather off topic, I know, but there are fabric conservationists on this
list and I was hoping they might have some pointers. :)

Thanks,

Drea


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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:19:30 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_5081031==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 01:25 PM 1/24/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Cin,
>
>The Greene Brothers built many such homes in California AND they were
>fascinated by Japanese design, colors, etc. What a coincidence, eh? Not
>really, it was still all the rage... Here is their home page:
>http://thunder.sonic.net/~mityam/index.html
>It might be a good place to start. Most original linens, furnishings, etc.
>that I come across are earth and jewel tones - typical craftsman.

  There are actually different styles (Pacific school, Prairie school, 
etc.). The Greene and Greenes are incredible. I have a Greene and Greene 
about 3 blocks from me. The bungalow movement begins as far back as 1870 
during one the Orientalism fads, if my memory hasn't completely left me. 
The style borrows freely from Japanese residential homes in how it uses 
interior spaces, The Greene and Greene's just take the concept one step 
further with their japanese inspired  woodwork. You should see the 
buildings that are considered the forerunners of the style.  Imagine a 
large tea house with Victorian gingerbread ornamentation. They are just 
strange at best.

The style of architecture, as well as the fashions of the time, were all 
based on the concept that the common American could and should be able to 
build his own home, as well as  make their own clothes, and carve out a 
safe place for his family with his own two hands. Craftsman Kit houses made 
owning homes affordable to almost anyone and home owners were good 
Americans >; ).  It was a time of patriotic movements, civic idealism, and 
a "return" to democracy. It was also not unlike the "return" to republican 
rule and the simplified clothing through classical dress during the 1790's 
to 1810. Does the turning of a century begin this change?  Do the personal 
ideals begin the trends or do the events shape the ideals and trends?  I've 
never gotten a satisfactory answer.

Personally, I find it all fascinating >; )


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis
who is wondering why she didn't study architecture instead of design all 
those years ago

--=====================_5081031==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 01:25 PM 1/24/2002 -0800, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Cin,<br><br>
The Greene Brothers built many such homes in California AND they
were<br>
fascinated by Japanese design, colors, etc. What a coincidence, eh?
Not<br>
really, it was still all the rage... Here is their home page:<br>
<a href="http://thunder.sonic.net/~mityam/index.html" eudora="autourl">http://thunder.sonic.net/~mityam/index.html</a><br>
It might be a good place to start. Most original linens, furnishings,
etc.<br>
that I come across are earth and jewel tones - typical
craftsman.</blockquote><br>
&nbsp;There are actually different styles (Pacific school, Prairie
school, etc.). The Greene and Greenes are incredible. I have a Greene and
Greene about 3 blocks from me. The bungalow movement begins as far back
as 1870 during one the Orientalism fads, if my memory hasn't completely
left me. The style borrows freely from Japanese residential homes in how
it uses interior spaces, The Greene and Greene's just take the concept
one step further with their japanese inspired&nbsp; woodwork. You should
see the buildings that are considered the forerunners of the style.&nbsp;
Imagine a large tea house with Victorian gingerbread ornamentation. They
are just strange at best.<br><br>
The style of architecture, as well as the fashions of the time, were all
based on the concept that the common American could and should be able to
build his own home, as well as&nbsp; make their own clothes, and carve
out a safe place for his family with his own two hands. Craftsman Kit
houses made owning homes affordable to almost anyone and home owners were
good Americans &gt;; ).&nbsp; It was a time of patriotic movements, civic
idealism, and a &quot;return&quot; to democracy. It was also not unlike
the &quot;return&quot; to republican rule and the simplified clothing
through classical dress during the 1790's to 1810. Does the turning of a
century begin this change?&nbsp; Do the personal ideals begin the trends
or do the events shape the ideals and trends?&nbsp; I've never gotten a
satisfactory answer.<br><br>
Personally, I find it all fascinating &gt;; )&nbsp; <br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br>
</b><tt><font face="Courier New, Courier" size=2>who is wondering why she
didn't study architecture instead of design all those years ago<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_5081031==_.ALT--

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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:26:02 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 25/1/02 11:19:28 AM, baddorf@inil.com writes:
<< And there is always this list of US .....   most of us have to be fond
of shoes too.   If you put up photos of them,   I bet you'd find takers
(free or for $)  for many of them!
Deb Baddorf >>

Oh YES Please. Imelda Marcos ain't got nothin' on me.
Lady G
Who just bought a pair of 1972 stacks in silk oriental brocade, Love 'em!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Preserving books?
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:57:04 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, Drea.  I don't, myself, know...but one of the member of the Barony
is a conservator in a museum, and this sounds right up her alley.  I'll
ask her for you.
--Maire

aleed wrote:
> 
> I'm buying some unfinished bookcases, and plan to finish them myself.
> They're going to be holding some really pricy and really old books--some
> over 200 years old.  Does anyone know what finishes I should use or avoid?
> Is linseed oil OK, or should I use polyurethane? Will having glass doors
> on the front help preserve them, or should they get some air flow?
> 
> Rather off topic, I know, but there are fabric conservationists on this
> list and I was hoping they might have some pointers. :)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] sewing madonnas?
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:16:08 +0000
Status: RO

Talking of knitting madonnas, are there any sewing madonnas?  I want to 
know how people held thread in period.  I'm just sort of unconvinced by 
the wooden spools people sell at reenactors' markets - they don't look 
right to me, but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of someone 
sewing, certainly not with any tools beside them.  Any clues?

Jean

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>On Tue, 22 Jan 2002, Alexandria Doyle wrote:
>
>> I have a questions regarding the knitting madonna's and other
>> representations of knitting prior to 1600, when knitting in the round,
>> how many needles were they using?
>
>I don't know anything about knitting, but this does give me a great
>opening to plug one of the DISTAFF sessions at the International Medieval
>Congress at Kalamazoo this May. We're having a session just on medieval
>knitting & other non-woven textiles. Anne Reaves, who is accomplished at
>medieval knitting techniques, will be talking on "The Iconography of
>Knitting Madonnas." The other speakers are Chris Laning on "Motifs and
>Technology in Knitted Silk Purses of the 14th Century," and Anne Marie
>Decker on "The Forgotten Technique of Nalbinding." All three women are
>known to some members of this list.
>
>--Robin
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gathered sleeve head
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:55:10 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:19 PM -0800 1/23/02, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>Ah <light dawns> ok, I know what you're talking about.  In fact, one 
>of the things that puzzled me about some of the medieval shaped 
>sleeves (but now I'm forgetting which one -- I think it may have 
>been the Moselund, but I'll have to check diagrams) was that if you 
>lined up the sleeve the way it seemed to want to line up (based on a 
>couple of different factors), you had a inward curve cut on the 
>sleeve (what on a modern sleeve would be the underarm position) 
>rotated to the front and matching the inward curve of the front 
>panel ... which seemed to place the "undistorted" position with the 
>arms at the _forward_ end of the range of motion.  Let me go back 
>and look at my diagrams and mock-ups so I'm sure which garment I'm 
>talking about and I'll describe it better.

Yeah, it was the Moselund tunic -- you can see a rough version of the 
thing at Marc Carlson's clothing site.  His doesn't show some of the 
relevant details of the part of the side gussets that form the lower 
back edge of the armscye, but it's a start.  There's a sharp angle at 
one point on the sleeve edge, and after you put the various body 
pieces together, there's only one place where the armscye also has a 
similar sharp angle.  If you line those up when you set in the 
sleeve, the lengthwise sleeve seam goes down the outside edge of the 
arm as expected, but the "cut-in" on the sleeve corresponds to the 
"cut-in" on the front body panel, causing the sleeves to have a 
natural "stance" that is significantly rotated towards the front.  As 
I recall, it's enough that if the tunic is fit relatively tightly, 
you can actually rip out that part of the armscye seam if you throw 
your arms suddenly backwards.

This actually suggests that I may have interpreted something wrongly 
-- either being wrong in matching up the "angles' on the two parts, 
or being wrong in making the garment relatively close-fitting.  (I'd 
tend to guess the latter before the former.  I made it up at exactly 
the scale of the original which fit me, but tightly, causing the 
problems.  Hence, my suspicions.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing madonnas?
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:43:44 GMT
Status: RO

On Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:16:08 +0000, the following was written in this
electric book by Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>:

>
>Talking of knitting madonnas, are there any sewing madonnas?  I want to 
>know how people held thread in period.  I'm just sort of unconvinced by 
>the wooden spools people sell at reenactors' markets - they don't look 
>right to me, but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of someone 
>sewing, certainly not with any tools beside them.  Any clues?

Since I'm not sure what period you are asking about, I'm going to be
very general.

Wooden spools are period - for 19th century and later:
http://www.paisley.org/paisley1/history/clarkfamily.html

Apparently they were invented in the early 19th century, for the
mechanized textile factories, but were not widely used by home sewers
until the advent of affordable sewing machines in the mid 19th
century. For pre-machine sewing, and 'traditional' sewing sets,
threadwinders were used instead of spools.

Threadwinders are star-shaped hardwood, horn, ivory, or metal tools on
which thread from a skein is wrapped to keep it in order in the sewing
box. For my sewing box, I have used small wooden craft cutouts in the
shape of snowflakes, but i hope to be able to replace thse with horn
ones (Less likely to snag delicate threads, for one - the wood cutouts
I have are not hardwood).

Prior to the use of purpose-made threadwinders, thread was wound on
whatever was to hand - there are archaological examples of silks being
wound onto small sticks to keep it orderly in  _Textiles and
Clothing_. This was a pretty universal idea, since there are also
examples found all over the world, in all eras. 


However, I am not sure how far back threadwinders go. I use them
because they are efficient, and *more* period than spools. For my 12th
century timeframe, it may well turn out that sticks are a more correct
solution than threadwinders.

Maura Bass
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Preserving books?
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:46:23 +0000
Status: RO

I would use polyurethane to finish the cases, becuase once it is dry there is
no possibility that it will migrate into the books, as linseed oil might...
and the slick surface you would have with the polyurethane will be easy to
dust.

I personally would not use a glass front because I live in a damp climate and
this would inhibit air circulation which isn't at all good. You will have to
dust more frequently, but dust doesn't hurt books - it's just a nuisance.
Ideally the shelves should be in the driest place of your house, away from
the wall a bit, and the whole shelf at least a few inches off the floor.

I always like to hear that people care for their books!!!

Fred Struthers

aleed wrote:

> I'm buying some unfinished bookcases, and plan to finish them myself.
> They're going to be holding some really pricy and really old books--some
> over 200 years old.  Does anyone know what finishes I should use or avoid?
> Is linseed oil OK, or should I use polyurethane? Will having glass doors
> on the front help preserve them, or should they get some air flow?
>
> Rather off topic, I know, but there are fabric conservationists on this
> list and I was hoping they might have some pointers. :)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drea
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:56:04 -0500
Status: RO

Ah well, 5 hours the wrong way.  I do wind up in Dayton and Cincinnatti
every once in awhile, but am now on the east coast.  I was just wondering if
we were neighbors and I didn't know it.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of aleed
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 9:39 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage



Springfield, OH.  5 hours due west.

Drea

On Thu, 24 Jan 2002, Megan M. wrote:

> Drea, you say you are only 5 hours from Pittsburgh.  What town?  I am from
> Pittsburgh, although I do not live there at present.
> -Megan McHugh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of aleed
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:36 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, 23 Jan 2002, Karen Heim wrote:
>
> > I'm sure IKEA is great, if you live near a store (since the online
> > catalog admits that there is more to see in the store than they show
> > you), OR if you can get them to send you a D**N catalog!  I've tried
> > several times to get a catalog sent to me (since the nearest store is in
> > Chicagoland), but NOOO, they aren't interested in my money.
>
> We drive 5 hours to the nearest IKEA.  In Pittsburg.  :)  I've heard bad
> things about their mailorder service, but the store is fantastic!
>
> Drea
>
> >
> > Karen (grumbling to no one in particular)
> >
> > aleed wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >I've found the IKEA shelves, with the extension to make them 8 feet
tall,
> > >are a fabric collector's dream come true.  They come in a number of
> > >different woods, are pretty cheap, sturdy, and come with attachable
> > >cupboard doors. They can fit 60" wide fabric bolts, and you can place
the
> > >shelves to hold 45" wide fabric bolts or 60" if you like. I lined a
whole
> > >wall of my sewing room with them, and  at 8 feet tall they look built
in.
> > >
> > >Drea (self-confessed IKEA Junkie)
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:03:30 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Megan, where are you?  I live on the east coast, too.
Margaret

--- "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> Ah well, 5 hours the wrong way.  I do wind up in
> Dayton and Cincinnatti
> every once in awhile, but am now on the east coast. 
> I was just wondering if
> we were neighbors and I didn't know it.
> -Megan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of aleed
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 9:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
> 
> 
> 
> Springfield, OH.  5 hours due west.


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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:03:02 +0000
Status: RO

Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote
>I have a super technique in a book my mother (the needlework teacher) 
>gave me - Betty Foster, "Creating Fashion" - Macdonald & Co, 1983, ISBN 
>0356 097072  Although it's obviously biased towards the 70s and early 
>80s (batwings and blousons) it really gives you the techniques to 
>create any shape from a basic block.
>
>If you don't get anything else by the weekend, I'll try to copy the 
>sleeve calculation into Word or something I can send you.
>
>Jean

OK, here it is....

This is based on the method set out in Betty Foster's "Creating 
Fashion", to draft a sleeve pattern that fits your armhole.  Obviously 
there are other pattern drafting manuals out there, but this one is to 
hand and I have found it works.  You will, of course, want to refer to 
all the information which Robin, Melanie et al have given, which has 
certainly given me an insight into how sleeves work that I didn't have 
before.  But if, like me, you're more confident starting from paper than 
just draping, this gives you a start to adapt from.

I've decided not to try and reproduce the diagram, but I hope you can 
follow these instructions in words.  If you draw it out with the 
measurements marked on the first time, you can work from your own 
diagram in future. You will need a friend to help with the measurements. 
This is, of course, for a modern sleeve, with the default arm position 
down at your side.

1.  Measure round the widest part of your upper arm, and add 4cm (sorry, 
this is in cm).  This is measurement a.
2.  Measure the length of your sleeve, from the stitching line at the 
top of the shoulder, round a bent elbow, to the wrist.  This is length 
b.
3.  Draw a rectangle, a by b.  I will call the shoulder-to-wrist lines 
vertical and the others horizontal.
4.  Divide a by 4, and draw in vertical lines at the quarter, half and 
three-quarter lines.
5.  Measure the distance from the top of the shoulder to your elbow. 
Take this distance diagonally from the centre of the top line until you 
hit the side of your rectangle.  Draw a horizontal line across from this 
point.
6.  Measure round the stitching line of your armhole and divide by 3. 
This is measurement c.  Draw a horizontal line at c down from the top. 
This will be the armhole line.

You now have a grid of four boxes across and three up and down - yes? 
Now to draw in the curvy bit.

7. Measure 4cm down from the top on the left quarter line - this is the 
back.  Measure 5 cm down from the right quarter line - this is the 
front. Join the dots from the left end of the armhole line, to the point 
you just marked on the left quarter line, to the centre top, and 
similarly down the other side.
8. Find roughly the centre of the first of the four lines you just drew, 
and mark a point 1cm below it, at right angles to the line.  Do the same 
1cm above the next line, 1.5cm above the third and 2cm below the last. 
These points help you get the curve right, since the front armhole is 
always cut on a deeper curve than the back.  Draw the curve of the top 
of the sleeve through the 9 points you have now.

This basic block gives you a plain, straight sleeve. To make a tapered 
sleeve, mark your wrist measurement on the bottom line.  Measure the 
widest point of your forearm, and the distance of this point from your 
wrist, and mark a dotted line on the grid.  Draw from the ends of the 
armhole line down to the wrist, making sure you stay outside the forearm 
line so the sleeves don't bind there.  I usually have quite a sharp 
angle at that point, but it doesn't look wrong when it's made up.

Once you have this basic block, you can cut along any of the grid lines 
to change the shape, while keeping the measurements you need.  For 
example, for a puffed top to the sleeve, you cut down the vertical lines 
from shoulder to elbow, fan them out at the shoulder and then gather the 
extra fabric into the armhole.  For a short flared sleeve, cut it off at 
the appropriate length and fan the pieces out at the bottom.  For a 
fitted, bent-elbow sleeve, cut across the elbow line and spread it at 
one side.

To do an s-curve sleeve head, of course, you just cut down one of the 
quarter lines and move that piece to the other side.  You can do this at 
any point, to place the seam exactly where you want it.  Or seams.

I was thinking how you would adapt this to get the shallower curve of 
period sleeve-heads.  The height of the sleeve-head is determined by the 
size of the armhole, so this will have some effect, with the tighter 
armhole. However, if you are going for a raised default arm position 
(DAM? Shall we invent a TLA?), you will need to shorten measurement c 
further, to flatten it even more.

To move the arm position forward, as described by Robin, that's about 
how you position the finished sleeve in the armhole - where the highest 
point on the sleeve cap goes in relation to the top of the shoulder. 
Obviously you then need to adjust, add gussets, whatever.

I hope you found this helpful.

Jean


-- 
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing madonnas?
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:10:32 +0000
Status: RO

Sorry for being unspecific - bad Jeannie!  12th century is what I'm 
doing.  I must have missed that in Textiles and Clothing - odd bits of 
stick or rolled up scraps of cloth was exactly what I was thinking. 
Thanks :-)

Jean


chimericalgirl@attbi.com wrote
>On Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:16:08 +0000, the following was written in this
>electric book by Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>:
>
>>
>>Talking of knitting madonnas, are there any sewing madonnas?  I want to
>>know how people held thread in period.  I'm just sort of unconvinced by
>>the wooden spools people sell at reenactors' markets - they don't look
>>right to me, but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of someone
>>sewing, certainly not with any tools beside them.  Any clues?
>
>Since I'm not sure what period you are asking about, I'm going to be
>very general.
>
>Wooden spools are period - for 19th century and later:
>http://www.paisley.org/paisley1/history/clarkfamily.html
>
>Apparently they were invented in the early 19th century, for the
>mechanized textile factories, but were not widely used by home sewers
>until the advent of affordable sewing machines in the mid 19th
>century. For pre-machine sewing, and 'traditional' sewing sets,
>threadwinders were used instead of spools.
>
>Threadwinders are star-shaped hardwood, horn, ivory, or metal tools on
>which thread from a skein is wrapped to keep it in order in the sewing
>box. For my sewing box, I have used small wooden craft cutouts in the
>shape of snowflakes, but i hope to be able to replace thse with horn
>ones (Less likely to snag delicate threads, for one - the wood cutouts
>I have are not hardwood).
>
>Prior to the use of purpose-made threadwinders, thread was wound on
>whatever was to hand - there are archaological examples of silks being
>wound onto small sticks to keep it orderly in  _Textiles and
>Clothing_. This was a pretty universal idea, since there are also
>examples found all over the world, in all eras.
>
>
>However, I am not sure how far back threadwinders go. I use them
>because they are efficient, and *more* period than spools. For my 12th
>century timeframe, it may well turn out that sticks are a more correct
>solution than threadwinders.
>
>Maura Bass
>---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
>"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either
>hand..." - the Flash Girls
>        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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In a message dated 1/25/2002 1:19:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk writes:


> I'm just sort of unconvinced by 
> the wooden spools people sell at reenactors' markets - they don't look 
> right to me, but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of someone 
> sewing, certainly not with any tools beside them.  Any clues?
> 
> 

I asked Coats & Clark about this and, as far as I can tell from their 
literature, spools don't come along until the mid 19th century.  (But, as is 
often the case with this sort of thing, their literature does not say 
definitively, "J.P. Coats sold spools at such and such a date.")  Since I 
interpret early 19th century, I now use thread winders.  I feel pretty 
confident that these were around by early 19th c., but not sure how far back 
they go.  Thread was evidently sold in skeins, or twists, and you would wind 
it as needed.  But again, not sure how far back this goes.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/25/2002 1:19:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'm just sort of unconvinced by <BR>
the wooden spools people sell at reenactors' markets - they don't look <BR>
right to me, but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of someone <BR>
sewing, certainly not with any tools beside them.&nbsp; Any clues?<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I asked Coats &amp; Clark about this and, as far as I can tell from their literature, spools don't come along until the mid 19th century.&nbsp; (But, as is often the case with this sort of thing, their literature does not say definitively, "J.P. Coats sold spools at such and such a date.")&nbsp; Since I interpret early 19th century, I now use thread winders.&nbsp; I feel pretty confident that these were around by early 19th c., but not sure how far back they go.&nbsp; Thread was evidently sold in skeins, or twists, and you would wind it as needed.&nbsp; But again, not sure how far back this goes.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 19:55:13 -0500
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In the sleeve cap discussion (I am about a dozen digests behind -- boy, has
everyone been posting lately!) people have been talking about whether there
was one "right" way to sew in the middle ages, or whether people pretty much
developed their own techniques.

The story I have to tell is a modern one, so it might not do to extrapolate
backward. But in the "it could have been done" tradition, I thought I'd
share a story that appeared in our local paper, The Cincinnati Enquirer,
earlier this week.

The story is about an African immegrant who is developing his own sewing
business. He speaks very little English and works at a box packing factory
(I think). But he was trained as a tailor, informally, by an uncle, who
taught him to sew when he was a child. He somehow hooked up with the owner
of an African goods store, who had a lot of pieces of mud cloth and wanted
them made into coats. He showed the young man what he wanted, the young man
took them home -- and came back with several fully lined jackets that he
sewed without patterns (and, incidentally, without sizes). Now he makes the
unisex coats out of heavy mud cloth, making up the patterns and making them
in whatever sizes he wants. The owner can't keep them in stock. The owner
then showed him some hats that he was having trouble getting in from Africa,
and now the tailor makes hats too, in all different designs that he made up.

The writer visited the man's apartment and watched him work. He plans the
garments and draws sketches, then sews without any patterns at all -- he
just picks up scissors and cuts. He eases the fabric together by hand. His
only tools (besides two industrial sewing machines) are sharp scissors and
chalk, but he says he rarely uses the chalk. No rulers or tape measures.

The man said that he doesn't like mud cloth, which is difficult to sew, but
prefers softer, light weight African fabrics. Also, although the garments he
is selling seem to be rather geometrically shaped, he said that he can sew
fitted garments such as dress trousers (he said he can sew anything he
sees), and that he can and does fit people. But he never uses patterns for
anything.

Maybe this is a unique talent, sort of like a photographic memory, or maybe
this is how people sew all over the world. But patterns are a recent
invention, and sewing is age-old.

I thought it was fascinating and that you all might be interested!

Gail Finke


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According to Ewen at Long Ship Trader's (the only person I have actually =
asked about this)- wooden thread winders were available in SCA period =
(nothing more specific was asked) and they were most likely a small =
piece of wood that you wound your thread around.

(I had asked because I had found a source for mother of pearl winders)

Lyn Greaves

** A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: AnnBWass@aol.com
  To: h-costume@indra.com
  Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 6:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing madonnas?


  In a message dated 1/25/2002 1:19:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, =
anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk writes:



    I'm just sort of unconvinced by
    the wooden spools people sell at reenactors' markets - they don't =
look
    right to me, but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of someone
    sewing, certainly not with any tools beside them.  Any clues?




  I asked Coats & Clark about this and, as far as I can tell from their =
literature, spools don't come along until the mid 19th century.  (But, =
as is often the case with this sort of thing, their literature does not =
say definitively, "J.P. Coats sold spools at such and such a date.")  =
Since I interpret early 19th century, I now use thread winders.  I feel =
pretty confident that these were around by early 19th c., but not sure =
how far back they go.  Thread was evidently sold in skeins, or twists, =
and you would wind it as needed.  But again, not sure how far back this =
goes.
  Ann Wass

------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C1A5E1.0B6249E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>According to Ewen at Long Ship Trader's (the only =
person I
have actually asked about this)- wooden thread winders were available in =
SCA
period (nothing more specific was asked) and they were most likely a =
small piece
of wood that you wound your thread around.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>(I had asked because I had found a source for mother =
of pearl
winders)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>Lyn Greaves</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>** A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
  <A title=3DAnnBWass@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:AnnBWass@aol.com">AnnBWass@aol.com</A>
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, January 25, 2002 =
6:35
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] sewing
  madonnas?</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>In a =
message dated
  1/25/2002 1:19:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, <A
  =
href=3D"mailto:anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk">anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk=
</A>
  writes:<BR><BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
  TYPE=3D"CITE">I'm just sort of unconvinced by <BR>the wooden spools =
people
    sell at reenactors' markets - they don't look <BR>right to me, but I =
don't
    think I've ever seen a picture of someone <BR>sewing, certainly not =
with any
    tools beside them.&nbsp; Any clues?<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>I =
asked Coats
  &amp; Clark about this and, as far as I can tell from their =
literature, spools
  don't come along until the mid 19th century.&nbsp; (But, as is often =
the case
  with this sort of thing, their literature does not say definitively, =
"J.P.
  Coats sold spools at such and such a date.")&nbsp; Since I interpret =
early
  19th century, I now use thread winders.&nbsp; I feel pretty confident =
that
  these were around by early 19th c., but not sure how far back they =
go.&nbsp;
  Thread was evidently sold in skeins, or twists, and you would wind it =
as
  needed.&nbsp; But again, not sure how far back this goes.<BR>Ann =
Wass</FONT>
  </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C1A5E1.0B6249E0--

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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 22:09:21 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. I can't speak for the 12th Cent., but I know that the MoL book notes
that some bones were found in textile context with a polished groove that
indicated possible thread winding. I would suspect that these were hollowed
out (or perhaps bird bones, already hollow) and plugged at one end, beeswax
inserted in the other end and pins and needles stored inside. I use a hollow
deer bone done up that way in my medieval kit for my thread and pins/needles.
I know a very similar device in turned wood was found on the wreck of the
Mary Rose (early-mid 16th Cent.). I would suggest looking for evidence in
Norse finds (Jorvik, Hedeby, Dublin, etc. since that is closer to your
period) I seem to remember some textile related items at York, but I couldn't
find them in the Viking Dig book by Hall. I bought all of the postcards when
I was there last (the shoes, the combs, etc.), but I can't find them now.
Check online with some of the early groups out there (reenactment types) that
have good contacts with archaeological sites. They usually have up-to-date
info.  Mike T.

Jean Waddie wrote:

> Sorry for being unspecific - bad Jeannie!  12th century is what I'm
> doing.  I must have missed that in Textiles and Clothing - odd bits of
> stick or rolled up scraps of cloth was exactly what I was thinking.
> Thanks :-)
>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing madonnas?
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 11:42:38 -0800
Status: RO

At 6:16 PM +0000 1/25/02, Jean Waddie wrote:
>Talking of knitting madonnas, are there any sewing madonnas?  I want 
>to know how people held thread in period.  I'm just sort of 
>unconvinced by the wooden spools people sell at reenactors' markets 
>- they don't look right to me, but I don't think I've ever seen a 
>picture of someone sewing, certainly not with any tools beside them. 
>Any clues?

Yup.  A wonderful source of images of the Virgin doing various types 
of handwork (and thus, images of various types of handwork) is "Die 
Handarbeiten der Maria" by Robert L. Wyss in "Artes Minores: Dank an 
Werner Abegg" edited by Michael Stettler et al. (Verlag Stampfli & 
Cie Ag., Bern, 1973).

When I was putting together a research project on containers used for 
medieval hand-work, this was one of my major sources of images.

As far as how threads were handled, one of the knitting Madonnas is 
working with multiple threads from a "spool rack", where the spools 
are relatively modern in shape although of the long narrow variety. 
You also see thread wrapped around rectangular cards.  The most 
common thing seems to be small hanks of thread in a figure-8 pattern 
(i.e., possibly just a round loop that has twisted naturally when 
releasted from tension, or possibly wound in a figure 8 around two 
fingers -- hard to tell from the scale).  This is all from memory at 
the moment, since I archived that project off my laptop and can't 
reference it at the moment.  (And, yes, at some point I'll see about 
getting it up on the web. Don't nag.)

One thing I didn't find in medieval depictions was the 
polygonal-with-knobs-or-notches "thread winders" that you can find at 
various vendors.  (I use them myself.)  This may be due to gaps in my 
data, or it may be because they are a later development.  I wish that 
someone would do a serious research book on the history of sewing and 
needlework equipment -- one aimed at the historian and re-enactor 
rather than the ones that are aimed at collectors, and so limit 
themselves to recent centuries.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: [h-cost] Book on really ancient shoes
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 22:22:19 -0800
Status: RO

Catalogue des chaussures de l'Antiquite Egyptienne
Musee de Louvre:  Departement des Antiquites Egyptiennes
ISBN 2-7118-3900-1
263 pages

Classifications and patterns of dozens of pairs of shoes.  Seems to be
mostly Dynastic period.  In French, but consists largely of b/w and
color photos, drawings, and patterns.

I bought it with some other books from Fred Struthers' latest catalog
of books on costume and textiles.  He always has a good selection of
hard-to-find foreign museum catalogs.  His email is fsbks@mcn.org.

Fran

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From: Lisa Leong <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing madonnas?
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:39:15 -1000 (HST)
Status: RO

> I wish that
> someone would do a serious research book on the history of sewing and
> needlework equipment -- one aimed at the historian and re-enactor
> rather than the ones that are aimed at collectors, and so limit
> themselves to recent centuries.

	Speaking of which, have any of you looked through The Story of
Antique Needlework Tools by Bridget McConnel?  The description says it
includes tools from ancient Egypt through the 20th century.  I imagine a
great deal of it is from the 19th and 20th centuries and am wondering
how much of it is from earlier.

lisa

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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 22:47:15 -0800
Status: RO

I'm just happy when costuemd people do something besides drag out their white
plastic spools as they came from the store.  Anything is better than that! :)



Maggiros

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On Behalf Of
AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 3:35 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing madonnas?


In a message dated 1/25/2002 1:19:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk writes:



I'm just sort of unconvinced by
the wooden spools people sell at reenactors' markets - they don't look
right to me, but I don't think I've ever seen a picture of someone
sewing, certainly not with any tools beside them.  Any clues?




I asked Coats & Clark about this and, as far as I can tell from their
literature, spools don't come along until the mid 19th century.  (But, as is
often the case with this sort of thing, their literature does not say
definitively, "J.P. Coats sold spools at such and such a date.")  Since I
interpret early 19th century, I now use thread winders.  I feel pretty confident
that these were around by early 19th c., but not sure how far back they go.
Thread was evidently sold in skeins, or twists, and you would wind it as needed.
But again, not sure how far back this goes.
Ann Wass


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Subject: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 05:03:54 -0800
Status: RO


>I'm just happy when costuemd people do something besides drag out their white
>plastic spools as they came from the store.  Anything is better than that! :)

My Ren. box (upper lower class German Kampfrau) has hand-wound skeins of 
embroidery thread, several colours of sewing thread wound around a smooth 
stick, scissors that look like small sheep shears, a darning egg, and pins 
and needles and hooks and eyes in those turned wood tubes with turned wood 
tops.  I also have a little box of buttons, a couple of bodkins, and some 
spare leather lacing.  What else should go in there?

I don't have a box for English Regency, because I don't do that period very 
often.  If I do Regency, I usually only bring needle, thread, and the work 
itself, and I hide the non-period scissors.

I put all my Victorian and Edwardian (middle middle class housewife) stuff 
in one basket right now, and use it for both periods.  (Eventually I will 
make two baskets, one for 1850-ish and one for 1880-1900.)  Right now the 
basket has my wood embroidery thread winders, my bone needle case, my 
antique paper of pins (Edwardian or later), more bodkins, my little 
scissors which were made in Prussia (2 pairs), a brown glass bottle of 
hooks and eyes, and buttons (bone and mother of pearl), with a cork 
stopper, another darning egg, and a velvet emery strawberry.  I also have 
several skeins of embroidery thread (1920's or earlier) with old-looking 
labels, and some scraps of ribbon.  The Victorian one will get a thread 
spool caddy like I saw in a Godey's, and maybe a pin cushion out of another 
Godey's.  I still need a good repro-Victorian tape measure.  For Edwardian 
I add a Nouveau-ish card of hooks and eyes, some thread spools which have 
the label printed right on the wood, and an Edwardian darning gadget with a 
clip to hold the work steady.  What else should go in there?  What 
distinguishing things will make the contents of one basket look Victorian 
and that of the other look late Victorian/Edwardian?  (All the women's 
magazines of each period can tell me what the outsides look like.)

Kayta
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In a message dated 1/25/2002 8:03:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:


> . But patterns are a recent
> invention, and sewing is age-old.
> 

I think fitting is a talent some people have, and some don't.  Before the 
invention of paper patterns, at least in the early 19th century, women often 
used an old garment (or bodice lining) as a pattern to cut the bodice.  The 
skirt, of course, was largely rectangles and/or triangles.  Some women had a 
dressmaker cut just the bodice, especially if they wanted a different style, 
and then sewed it together themselves, if they could not afford to have the 
dressmaker make the whole garment.

Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/25/2002 8:03:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, gailscott@eos.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">. But patterns are a recent<BR>
invention, and sewing is age-old.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I think fitting is a talent some people have, and some don't.&nbsp; Before the invention of paper patterns, at least in the early 19th century, women often used an old garment (or bodice lining) as a pattern to cut the bodice.&nbsp; The skirt, of course, was largely rectangles and/or triangles.&nbsp; Some women had a dressmaker cut just the bodice, especially if they wanted a different style, and then sewed it together themselves, if they could not afford to have the dressmaker make the whole garment.<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 21:45:30 -0500
Status: RO

OK, this seals it, I'm getting a lucet... Yes, I do always need string!

Catherine Kinsey wrote:

>"String, string, string string, everybody needs string..."
>
>Jean
>



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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 06:22:34 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I'm guessing this would simply be a basket, right?  As
you have all heard ad nauseum, I'm doing a
splendiferous new outfit for myself.  I was just
curled up on my sofa over my 2nd cup of coffee working
on a gorgeous almonier [oh I give up...never _could_
spell French] belt-pouchy gizmo when it occured to me
that as lovely as it is, it sure won't hold a harp
tuning key and spare strings!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:18:37 EST
Status: RO

What kind of being was this thing created for????? It looks like a human body 
with a pair of airplane nose cones grafted on to it. Think bullet bra. BIG 
bullet bra. The measurements are correct (bust is a bit small in inches tho 
the sight of the bust on this thing scares me) so I won't have to take the 
cover up much but my husband (who's a, 'scuse me, tit man) said "don't point 
those things at me". How do I get it to human proportions?
Feeling underdeveloped,
Lady G
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 10:16:50 -0400
Status: RO

Dear Lady G

Yes indeed, an untamed Uniquely You is possibly one of the scariest things
that can come in a box. That being said, I'm a great believer in Uniquely
You dress forms because you can corset them and get a similar effect to
corseting a human body - something you can't do with a Wolf Form. (Right now
I have one in my studio wearing an 1860's corset because I'm draping a
bodice on it.) But first you have to make the Uniquely You your own body
measurements.  This is not easy, but worth the effort.

The gist of the exercise is that the fabric cover compresses all that foam
rubber, making a very firm dress form when all is done.  A good place to
start is to actually put the fabric cover on yourself and have someone fit
it VERY TIGHTLY.  Then zip it on the foam body and measure the result.
Warning:  this is only the beginning of the process.  The pressure of the
foam innards distorts your fitting and you have to keep adjusting until you
get it right.  That means taking the cover off, sewing in a nip and a tuck
and then returning the cover to the form.  And it's not easy to get the
cover on the rubber, either.  I find the putting the thing between my knees
and squeezing is the best method. (Be sure not to do this in front of an
uncurtained window.)

As a finishing touch, I make a muslin cap for the neck and for the shoulder
extensions and I also cover the bottom with muslin.  I have found that the
foam rubber deteriorates when exposed to the air. (Not rapidly - I have a
Uniquely You that's 20 years old and another that's brand new.)

I am a bit concerned that you say the bust is small.  The foam base you
start with should be lots larger than your measurements.  Perhaps you bought
a size too small? I know that's hard to believe when you look at it....

If you should need advice or encouragement along the way, feel free to
e-mail me.  I have used these forms for years and just made up several new
ones recently.

Martha K

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uniquely You Questions...
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 09:47:15 -0600
Status: RO

LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> What kind of being was this thing created for????? It looks like a human body
> with a pair of airplane nose cones grafted on to it. Think bullet bra. BIG
> bullet bra. The measurements are correct (bust is a bit small in inches tho
> the sight of the bust on this thing scares me) so I won't have to take the
> cover up much but my husband (who's a, 'scuse me, tit man) said "don't point
> those things at me". How do I get it to human proportions?

When we got one for the costume shop where I work, I had the same
reaction.  I basically sewed a curve across the end of each point, which
rounded them off a bit.  What I can't figure out is why the thing has
such a frightening bust but no derriere.  Perhaps it's modelled after
the fifties line?  Bullet bra and a really severe girdle? 

Good luck
Melanie
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 08:16:36 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Sounds Interesting - Found on the Fairfax Library
homepage.  "Threads of Time: Toast & Strawberries, a
woman-owned boutique in Washington, D.C., presents a
fashion show and "Threads of Time: African American
Designers, 1854-1954" on February 9 at 1:00 p.m. at
the Lorton Library."

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
http://auctions.yahoo.com
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 11:39:33 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 26/1/02 9:25:26 AM, marthakelly@nyc.rr.com writes:

<< I am a bit concerned that you say the bust is small. >>

The dress form I have was listed as "small" and it looks HUGE. Sorry if I 
wasn't clear.
Lady G
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a 12th Century lady's giant canvas totebag
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 15:58:06 +0000
Status: RO

Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> wrote
>I'm guessing this would simply be a basket, right?  As
>you have all heard ad nauseum, I'm doing a
>splendiferous new outfit for myself.  I was just
>curled up on my sofa over my 2nd cup of coffee working
>on a gorgeous almonier [oh I give up...never _could_
>spell French] belt-pouchy gizmo when it occured to me
>that as lovely as it is, it sure won't hold a harp
>tuning key and spare strings!
>
>Iohanna the Harper
>[Joan Hall]
>"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
>"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
>
How giant are you thinking of?  Surely your harp key and strings aren't 
that big? Or is it a question of those, plus all the other stuff that 
has to go in it? What do you put your harp in?

We generally go with shoulder bags - the ones with just a flap over the 
top, no actual fastening, or maybe a toggle and loop.  You can make it 
as big as you like - we have an enormous one our airbed fits in 
(uninflated!), because it's so unwieldy to carry down from our flat to 
the car.
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 15:58:06 +0000
Status: RO

Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> wrote
>I'm guessing this would simply be a basket, right?  As
>you have all heard ad nauseum, I'm doing a
>splendiferous new outfit for myself.  I was just
>curled up on my sofa over my 2nd cup of coffee working
>on a gorgeous almonier [oh I give up...never _could_
>spell French] belt-pouchy gizmo when it occured to me
>that as lovely as it is, it sure won't hold a harp
>tuning key and spare strings!
>
>Iohanna the Harper
>[Joan Hall]
>"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
>"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
>
How giant are you thinking of?  Surely your harp key and strings aren't 
that big? Or is it a question of those, plus all the other stuff that 
has to go in it? What do you put your harp in?

We generally go with shoulder bags - the ones with just a flap over the 
top, no actual fastening, or maybe a toggle and loop.  You can make it 
as big as you like - we have an enormous one our airbed fits in 
(uninflated!), because it's so unwieldy to carry down from our flat to 
the car.
-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 09:44:50 +0000
Status: RO

My apologies to the list. I tried to write Joan Garner privately and the
message bounced. Thank you for your indulgence.

				Arlys

On Sat, 26 Jan 2002 07:50:28 +0000 Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> writes:
> Hi Joan.
> 
> I haven't forgotten--I still need to send you my blackwork handout.
> 
> The last two weeks have been utter chaos, and I haven't had time. I 
> hope to get it out to you this week.
> 
> Sorry about that. :(
> 				Arlys
> 
> On Sat, 26 Jan 2002 06:22:34 -0800 (PST) Joan Garner 
> <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes:
> > I'm guessing this would simply be a basket, right?  As
> > you have all heard ad nauseum, I'm doing a
> > splendiferous new outfit for myself.  I was just
> > curled up on my sofa over my 2nd cup of coffee working
> > on a gorgeous almonier [oh I give up...never _could_
> > spell French] belt-pouchy gizmo when it occured to me
> > that as lovely as it is, it sure won't hold a harp
> > tuning key and spare strings!
> > 
> > Iohanna the Harper
> > [Joan Hall]
> > "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> > "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> > 
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
> > http://auctions.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Uniquely You Questions...
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 12:41:16 -0400
Status: RO

The dress form I have was listed as "small" and it looks HUGE. Sorry if I
wasn't clear.
Lady G

According to the manufacturer, a "small" form with a size 6 cover will take
you up to a 40" bust.
I'm sure you read all that when you bought the thing. It's just hard to
believe it could ever be squished down to human proportions.

There's something I forgot to mention.  I learned this the hard way.
Because of all the pressure from within, there is a great strain on the
seams.  The fabric, which looks like polyester poplin, will literally pull
apart.  So, after you get it the proper size, I strongly recommend that you
reinforce the seams. Flat fell them or back the seams with a strip of muslin
or tape.

Martha
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uniquely You Questions...
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 10:18:06 -0800
Status: RO

One thing that I did on my Uniquely You form was split it appart and "core"
both halves of the form from the inside (it's just two pieces glued
together).  This allowed it to actually compress in a corset, which is a
nice thing for a dress form to do when the only thing you use it for is
costuming.  If you do this, you have to be conscious of not digging too
deep, or else you will puncture through the form (the foam is very dense, so
it's easy to get carried away).  I didn't core the breasts as much as the
waist on my dummy, out of concern that it would cause the breasts to
"deflate" a bit.  Shouldn't have worried in retrospect, however.

On a side note, I don't care for my Uniquely You all that much.  Now that I
can corset it, it has made life somewhat easier, but the thing just is not
shaped like a human.  The shoulders are too broad and rounded for my size
and the neck is far too wide to fit an accurite colar.  And, as was said
before, it has no hips or tummy or anything else a normal woman has.  These
days I use it mainly for getting the basic idea of a mock up before fitting
it to my own body, or just to hem skirts.  If I knew this back when I orded
the thing, I would have sunk my $180 into constructing my own form.

Just my $0.02.  :)

Sarah Lorraine

on 1/26/02 8:41 AM, Martha Kelly at marthakelly@nyc.rr.com wrote:

> The dress form I have was listed as "small" and it looks HUGE. Sorry if I
> wasn't clear.
> Lady G
> 
> According to the manufacturer, a "small" form with a size 6 cover will take
> you up to a 40" bust.
> I'm sure you read all that when you bought the thing. It's just hard to
> believe it could ever be squished down to human proportions.
> 
> There's something I forgot to mention.  I learned this the hard way.
> Because of all the pressure from within, there is a great strain on the
> seams.  The fabric, which looks like polyester poplin, will literally pull
> apart.  So, after you get it the proper size, I strongly recommend that you
> reinforce the seams. Flat fell them or back the seams with a strip of muslin
> or tape.
> 
> Martha
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 26 14:02:57 2002
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:37:59 -0500
Status: RO

> .  And, as was said
> before, it has no hips or tummy or anything else a normal woman has.  These
> days I use it mainly for getting the basic idea of a mock up before fitting
> it to my own body, or just to hem skirts.
>
> Sarah Lorraine

This was a major issue for me, too, as I got mine right after having a baby.  I
ended up letting out seams from the waist down on my cover.  When I put the cover
on the foam, it bagged quite a bit.  I just stuffed the hip and butt area with
fiberfill.  Not only did she look exactly like me, but as my post-partum figure
returned to normal, I was able to take some of the stuffing out.
Andrea

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
References: <95683E64E705CB41BB06F348AE5F597B0E8ED3@tko-exch.phoenix.com> <003701c1a54a$a15bde80$6401a8c0@home.com>
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:23:00 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Daniel.
Thanks a lot for those photos. I browsed and enjoyed all the wonderfull 
photos. It was like a fairytale, Bravo!

Bjarne

Daniel Fenwick wrote:

>Here is a pic with my finished Cote and my ladies finished Gown from 12th
>Night. Her gown is made basically from Mistress Cori's instructions (
>http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/corikirtle.html ), although could
>be a bit tighter.
>
>http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/_2002_006_12.html
>
>The plaque belts are from Raymond's Quiet Press, the linen chause are from
>Historic Enterprises as are the shoes that you can't see in this pic.
>
>Dan


Leif Drews
boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 15:48:35 -0500
Status: RO

I'm in a Maryland suburb of DC, Gaithersburg, to be precise.  Where are you?
-Megan McHugh

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margaret Farrow
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 3:04 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage


Megan, where are you?  I live on the east coast, too.
Margaret

--- "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> Ah well, 5 hours the wrong way.  I do wind up in
> Dayton and Cincinnatti
> every once in awhile, but am now on the east coast. 
> I was just wondering if
> we were neighbors and I didn't know it.
> -Megan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of aleed
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 9:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
> 
> 
> 
> Springfield, OH.  5 hours due west.
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Subject: [h-cost] Another inventive hoopskirt boning idea
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 16:52:08 -0500
Status: RO

I was in the hardware store this afternoon looking for something god 
to use for hoop boning (since I don't want to pay more than $2 a yard 
for hoop steel here)...  they didn't have any kind of tubing that was 
rigid enough to hold the right form or to not have a memory for tight 
curves, and no strapping of any sort, so I started to leave -- then 
my husband stopped me in front of the clothes line wire!  It was 
perfect!  

(Not the soft stuff mind you, but the super heavy duty kind with a 
break strength of 1700Lbs -- the 1100lb and lower stuff was a bit too 
pliable to hold up piles of brocade and velvet).  It's the steel wire 
inside a slick plastic tubing (if you're unfamilliar with "clothes 
line cable").  It's narrower than any of the plumbing tubing (which 
will help give a smoother looking hoop than the larger pvc tubing 
would), and stiff enough to spring back into a straight line (so it 
won't collapse easily).  And it only cost $16.00CND for a 60 yard 
roll of it.  Not too bad!

I also thought of something else while I was in there -- using the 
heavy duty weed whacker line for corset boning (it's like 3-4 mm 
round reed, but MUCH more durable).  It't quite stiff enough for 
Elizabethan corsets, and a rather large roll of the stuff is under 
$5.00.

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:26:17 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Salisbury, Maryland...20 minutes from the
beach...about two hours from you.
Margaret

--- "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> I'm in a Maryland suburb of DC, Gaithersburg, to be
> precise.  Where are you?
> -Megan McHugh

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 26 16:58:54 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] corset bone stops
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:32:17 -0800
Status: RO

This is an answer to a question someone on another list asked me, about the 
embroidered 'bone stoppers' on my Victorian corset.  She said she didn't 
mind me re-posting it:

> > >>I was also meaning to ask you... How was it that
> > you'd stitched the
> > >>boning on your corset in so that it doesn't pop
> > out?  I was admiring it
> > >>one morning and forgot to ask, and I saw
> > >>something similar looking in a victorian corset ad
> > I found, so it
> > >>reminded me to ask. :)
> > >
> > >Mine uses a 6-stitch tack, worked like the
> > herringbone stitch in
> > >embroidery.  The needle comes out at 1, goes in at
> > 2, out at 3, in at 4,
> > >out at 5, in at 6, out at 7, in at 8, out at 9, in
> > at 'a', out at 'b', and
> > >in at 'c', then gets fastened off on the back.  The
> > stitches look diagonal
> > >on the front, and horizontal on the back.
> > >
> > >I originally did these on mine because I'm an
> > authenticity snob, and I
> > >have seen them in many corset ads/photos, but it
> > turned out to be a good
> > >idea.  The points at the ends keep the bone from
> > moving up or down in its
> > >channel, and the points at the sides keep the bone
> > from slipping sideways
> > >off the points at the ends.  The trick seems to be
> > to stitch snug but not
> > >too tight, or the bone is forced thru the cloth
> > anyway (one of mine did
> > >this, and I had to fix it).
> > >
> > >     |        |
> > > ->| |<-bone->| |<-bone
> > >   | |        | |  channel
> > >   | |        | |  here
> > >     |        |
> > >   3\|        |/2
> > >     \        /
> > >   7\|\      /|/6
> > >     \ \    / /
> > >   b\|\ \  / /|/a
> > >     \ \ \/ / /
> > >   | |\ \/\/ /| |
> > >   | | \/\/\/ | |
> > >   | | /\/\/\ | |
> > >   | |/_/\/\_\| |
> > >     1 5 9c 8 4
> > >
> > >
> > >BTW, do you mind if I re-post your question and my
> > answer to another list?


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another inventive hoopskirt boning idea
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:26:55 -0800
Status: RO


>
>I also thought of something else while I was in there -- using the
>heavy duty weed whacker line for corset boning (it's like 3-4 mm
>round reed, but MUCH more durable).  It't quite stiff enough for
>Elizabethan corsets, and a rather large roll of the stuff is under
>$5.00.

This has successfully been used for corded petticoats.


Kayta
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 18:39:32 EST
Status: RO

Martha, Thanks for the suggestion, I'd wondered about the strength of the 
seams so will do that either tonight or tomorrow.
Lady G
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Subject: [h-cost] 1900-1925 hats
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:38:08 -0500
Status: RO

>After some very good notes on color, Gwyn signed herself
>>>>Gwyn Carnegie;  who now owns too many 1900 to 1925 hats - everyone has to
>have a weakness >; )

Gwyn, could you post pics of your collection, please?  I'd love to see
them, as I'm on a bit of a hat kick myself lately...

-- Mara


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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Preserving books?
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:42:42 -0500
Status: RO

At 12:24 PM 01/25/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I'm buying some unfinished bookcases, and plan to finish them myself.
>They're going to be holding some really pricy and really old books--some
>over 200 years old.  Does anyone know what finishes I should use or avoid?
>Is linseed oil OK, or should I use polyurethane? Will having glass doors
>on the front help preserve them, or should they get some air flow?

My husband (woodworker) says use polyurethane or a very good varnish, and
let it cure for 3-4 days before putting anything on them.

Speaking of which, I've been meaning to inventory and take pictures of my
costume books.  I don't have any antique books (yet), but I've discovered
that a bunch of costume books that I bought while they were still in print
have dramatically increased in value, so if I had a house fire and didn't
have a list of what I'd lost, I'd have a hard time replacing them...  

-- Mara

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] too many shoes
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:45:29 -0500
Status: RO

At 12:26 PM 01/25/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Oh YES Please. Imelda Marcos ain't got nothin' on me.
>Lady G
>Who just bought a pair of 1972 stacks in silk oriental brocade, Love 'em!

I'm afraid I'm headed down that road, myself.  I just bid on yet another
pair of ankle boots, on Ebay...

My current weakness is shoes or boots with Louis heels -- the ones with a
little 'waist' on 'em, ya know?  When those were in style -- late 1980s --
I wasn't doing 18th c. reenacting.  I wish now that I'd bought a whole
bunch of them, particularly a pair that my friend Mary Kate bought: green
damask with a lovely 'fan' tongue.  Sigh...  I haven't seen any of these on
Ebay.  What key words should I be using?

-- Mara

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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:52:51 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 26/1/02 8:51:09 PM, lindo@radix.net writes:
<< What key words should I be using?
-- Mara >>

I've been looking for about 2 years and Keep coming up with"Just the Right 
Shoe", I'm really staarting to hate mini shoes! If you ever find out the 
magic words to use and don't share...grrrrr!
Lady G
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uniquely You Questions...
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:59:04 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:18 AM 01/26/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>On a side note, I don't care for my Uniquely You all that much.  Now that I
>can corset it, it has made life somewhat easier, but the thing just is not
>shaped like a human.  The shoulders are too broad and rounded for my size
>and the neck is far too wide to fit an accurite colar.  And, as was said
>before, it has no hips or tummy or anything else a normal woman has.  These
>days I use it mainly for getting the basic idea of a mock up before fitting
>it to my own body, or just to hem skirts.  If I knew this back when I orded
>the thing, I would have sunk my $180 into constructing my own form.
>
>Just my $0.02.  :)
>
>Sarah Lorraine

I got mine as a Christmas present from my hubby a few years ago, and I
pointed him to a sale, so he got it for 50% off, so I don't feel bad about
mine :D  It certainly has helped me drape stuff that I could never have
done otherwise.  Yes, I do have to 'fine-tune' it after I get the basic
pattern draped; I always have to take things in at the small of the back
(just as I do on commercial patterns), and I ought to mark my shoulder line
on the cover in permanent marker.  I think it's worth having -- especially
if you can get it on sale, or get a used one, and don't have a good friend
or relative living close by to help you drape and fit clothing.

-- Mara


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 22:11:19 -0500
Status: RO

Well, this was one of the few "tests" that got me fairly accurately,
including where I am now emotionally.  the only thing is, I picked my first
color more because it reminds me of my kingdom than anything else.;-)
Moira

> It was spot on. Exactly where I am at the moment. So much so, I'm using it
> in my journal, and going to fill out their little survey. Mind you it is
> based on phychological principles isn't it?
>


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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] too many shoes
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 22:06:31 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:52 PM 01/26/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I've been looking for about 2 years and Keep coming up with"Just the Right 
>Shoe", I'm really staarting to hate mini shoes! If you ever find out the 
>magic words to use and don't share...grrrrr!
>Lady G

LOL -- of course I'll share (the keyword)!  I just won't tell you which
items I'm bidding on... :D

-- Mara

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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 22:14:52 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 26/1/02 9:12:10 PM, lindo@radix.net writes:
<< LOL -- of course I'll share (the keyword)!  I just won't tell you which
items I'm bidding on... :D
-- Mara >>

DEAL!
Lady G who's still drooling over her stacks. They are lovely. My favorite 
pair was a truly hideous pair of 1940's black suede ones I found at a yard 
sale when I was 8. I wore them til they fell off my feet and couldn't be 
repaired again. I knew they were ugly then and I know they were ugly now, why 
am I still looking for a pair?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 22:31:12 -0500
Status: RO

Did you play the version with the Nintendo characters that showed up as you
beat various levels? (I beat it just over 11yrs ago)
Moira
who remembers the even older version from the arcades of the 80s.

 I did it again and listened to
> the music this time and came up with the same result. My Tetris game used
to
> have the same "song" playing in the background but heavier bass notes but
> very similar. Strange music but I like it. Never said I was normal.
> Lady G


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Teddy Fan Club Test
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 22:30:52 EST
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In a message dated 26/1/02 9:27:08 PM, moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net writes:
<< Did you play the version with the Nintendo characters that showed up as you

beat various levels? (I beat it just over 11yrs ago)

Moira

who remembers the even older version from the arcades of the 80s.

 >>

Don't have a clue. Just whichever Mac version they let me have for free when 
I typed in Tetris on Yahoo. Sue me I'm cheap. It's been a while since I've 
played (about a year) but the last game was set up to start with 11 layers of 
blocks in place. Don't even know exactly what THAT means. Just like things 
tidy and it seems to be the ultimate tidy game. :-}
Lady G
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 26 22:21:48 2002
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 23:00:20 -0500
Status: RO

Then for the purposes of this list, we are neighbors. Perhaps we can meet
sometime, when we are not both incredibly busy.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margaret Farrow
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 5:26 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage


Salisbury, Maryland...20 minutes from the
beach...about two hours from you.
Margaret

--- "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> I'm in a Maryland suburb of DC, Gaithersburg, to be
> precise.  Where are you?
> -Megan McHugh



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Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jan 26 22:42:47 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 23:11:41 -0500
Status: RO

At 05:03 AM 1/26/02 -0800, you wrote:

>I don't have a box for English Regency, because I don't do that period very 
>often.  If I do Regency, I usually only bring needle, thread, and the work 
>itself, and I hide the non-period scissors.
>
>
   Scissors for regency are surprisingly easy to come by, as many modern
scissors are very close.  While I am no expert on the period in question, I
have seen several earlier (18th century) scissors and actually used one pair
of originals.  I also  own two "repros".  There are also a large number
shown in Diderot's Encyclpedia.  All of these  (except for one pair of
Tailors Shears) look much like modern all steel scissors.  The only
difference being that they are hand forged (which the trained eye can
detect) and some of the older scissors have fancy details.  Many do not
however and look just like modern scissors.  I say this because if this is
true in 1770, than I suspect it is true a couple of decades later.

        I have seen one pair of scissors that did not match the above
description, and I think they were regency (though they may have been
earlier).  I went to Charlottesville specifically to see these (no really I
did).   We were discussing period scissors over on the revlist and a
question came up regarding the chinese scissors so frequently used by
reenactors.  I think these are the ones you are describing as looking like
sheep shears, but maybe not, there are some repro nippers out there now that
look exactly like little sheep shears (I keep meaning to buy a pair).  The
chinese ones are usually black and have short blades and huge finger rings.
Many of us mentioned not having seen these in period sources, and having
seen several originals that looked just like modern scissors (see above...).
By period I do specifically mean the American Revolution, I have seen very
similar scissors in older (16th century) sources.

        Anyway, I was told there was a pair of original 18th century
scissors, of the chinese style at the Jefferson museum (not Monticello) at
Charlottsville.  So I drove up there (actually I intended to tour the house
as well, do not try that during Easter week)  I did find the scissors
belonging to a Jefferson daughter. They were part of a pocket sewing kit,
very like what are commonly referred to by reenactors as "housewives".  I
believe the sign attributed this to the federal period (there was a date I
just forget what it was, but I believe it was rather late).  The scissors
did look exactly like the chinese scissors but were very small,  I mean
smaller than most embroidery scissors today.  The big loops made great sense
then, because it was the only way to operate them (using a thumb and one
finger).

    Frankly, I do not think those original scissors are a suitable example
for using chinese scissors of a far greater size (though I do have a pair I
frequently use for nippers in modern life.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: [h-cost] Uniquely You Questions/Twin-Fit
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:19:20 -0800
Status: RO

I got a Twin-Fit last year and I really like it.  It's the harder body 
style, but with several dials to adjust parts up and down.  This one goes 
down to my smallest daughter and up to my full size.  I do think it will 
still need some tummy padding to get the total image (yuck) but I can change 
it within about four dress sizes just by the different dials.  I also got it 
on sale for $99 instead of $169.  The fabric cover is sort of flimsy, but I 
plan to make a tight stretchy sort of cover to protect the original one from 
pins etc.

Just my thoughts on forms



>At 10:18 AM 01/26/2002 -0800, you wrote:
> >On a side note, I don't care for my Uniquely You all that much.  Now that 
>I
> >can corset it, it has made life somewhat easier, but the thing just is 
>not
> >shaped like a human.  The shoulders are too broad and rounded for my size
> >and the neck is far too wide to fit an accurite colar.  And, as was said
> >before, it has no hips or tummy or anything else a normal woman has.  
>These
> >days I use it mainly for getting the basic idea of a mock up before 
>fitting
> >it to my own body, or just to hem skirts.  If I knew this back when I 
>orded
> >the thing, I would have sunk my $180 into constructing my own form.
> >
> >Just my $0.02.  :)
> >
> >Sarah Lorraine
>
>I got mine as a Christmas present from my hubby a few years ago, and I
>pointed him to a sale, so he got it for 50% off, so I don't feel bad about
>mine :D  It certainly has helped me drape stuff that I could never have
>done otherwise.  Yes, I do have to 'fine-tune' it after I get the basic
>pattern draped; I always have to take things in at the small of the back
>(just as I do on commercial patterns), and I ought to mark my shoulder line
>on the cover in permanent marker.  I think it's worth having -- especially
>if you can get it on sale, or get a used one, and don't have a good friend
>or relative living close by to help you drape and fit clothing.
>
>-- Mara
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 01:03:47 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. There was a pair of excavated scissors at Philipsburg Manor on the
Hudson, tenatively dated to the 1660s (the original date of the settled site,
although the site currently recreates 18th Cent. life), that looked remarkably
like the Chinese scissors seen today. I took one pair once (modern Chinese
scissors, that is), and heated and bent the arms to resemble a pair from a 1640s
Dutch painting I have seen, I believe, in DC. I can't find the picture right
now, though. I have also made a pair for my wife from a cheap pair of scissors
with nicely rounded rings (I did a little file work, and they looked remarkably
like some I have seen in a few museums.) There is a large paperback book I have
called Scissors (Magna Books 1990 ISBN 1-85422-182-5) that has color photos of
scissors, shears and other similar devices (candletrimmers, etc.) from Neolithic
times (flints) up to a pair given to Benito Mussolini. The book also has
illustrations of paintings and sculptures showing scissors and shears, including
a disturbing bas-relief of a woman using shears to trim her pubic hair (?!),
dated 1185 from Milan. The Museum of London book on Medieval finds titled Knives
and Scabbards has some excavated examples of shears and scissors (pgs 106-114),
the MoL book called Medieval Households has a section on thimbles, needles and
thread reels (pgs 265-270, that's where I saw the bone being used as a thread
reel), and the Dress Accessories one has a whole section on pins. The thread
winders from the Mary Rose can be seen on pg. 97 of Alexander McKee's book " How
we found the Mary Rose" 1982 ISBN 0-312-39630-9. I have found period
medical/surgical texts to contain many illos of scissors which appear very
similar to scissors used to cut cloth. Also, I have a book on London Tradesman's
cards of the 18th cent. (Dover 1968) which has cutlers cards displaying scissors
similar to those dating back to the 16th Cent.     Mike T.



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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 00:08:18 -0800
Status: RO

Without catching up to the rest of today's mail:  Corticelli silk thread comes
on wooden spools with the label printed right on the wood.  I haven't bought any
lately, but I used to get it (sewing silk and buttonhole) at International Silks
& Woolens and 3rd Street Fabrics in Los Angeles.

In general, anything that doesn't draw attention to itself by being plastic or
otherwise synthetic should serve.

MaggiRos


What else should go in there?  What
> distinguishing things will make the contents of one basket look Victorian
> and that of the other look late Victorian/Edwardian?  (All the women's
> magazines of each period can tell me what the outsides look like.)
>


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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Uniquely You Questions...
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 00:37:00 -0800
Status: RO

Mara said:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Yes, I do have to 'fine-tune' it after I get the basic
> pattern draped; I always have to take things in at the small of the back
> (just as I do on commercial patterns), and I ought to mark my shoulder line
> on the cover in permanent marker.  I think it's worth having -- especially
> if you can get it on sale, or get a used one, and don't have a good friend
> or relative living close by to help you drape and fit clothing.
>

And there it is.  It comes as a (perhaps bizarre) kind of figure ready to be
compressed into your actual shape.  They should probably mention that in the
sales material.  :)  It is a form, as a form letter is a form, and must be
customized before it looks anything like you.  (When mine came, we called it
"Tits McCoy".)

Just as you cannot fit anything on yourself, you cannot fit this by youself.
You need a friend, preferably one more skilled than you are yourself, to fiddle
with the cover, but any costumer friend will do.  My Uniquely You (which suited
me very well until I stopped doing Faire and started getting fat) has two
horizontal folds at the bust about 3/4 inch apart, another at the waist. (This
takes into account IIRC both the shortish waist and the annoyingly out of
proportion small bosom)  There is also a tuck between neck and actual point.
I'm just short all over. :-)

Make it fit you.  Take it off.  Put it on the foam and zip it up. This may take
some work. Voila, it looks a lot like you.  Set the height so the shoulder
matches your shoulder height and so the waist matches your waist to floor. If it
doesn't, do it all again until it does. Now you can pin your own hems without
having to trust anyone to believe that when you say "on the carpet" you mean "on
the carpet".  (On the carpet = on the grass)

In any case, when you open the shipping box, DON'T PANIC.  Gasp, Laugh, then
pick up the phone.

Incidentally, the best bodice pattern I ever had was draped on me by my then
boyfriend who had never done such a thing before.  But he has a good eye, and
had been draped on numerous occasions before, and had paid attention.   Your
tailor doesn't *have* to be more experienced than you as long as you have a full
length mirror and a clue. ;)

Of course, all this changes if you're trying to use a single form for multiple
parties.  In that case, you're on your own.

Just my tuppence ha'penny,


MaggiRos


MaggiRos








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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 01:44:15 -0800
Status: RO


>I think these are the ones you are describing as looking like
>sheep shears, but maybe not, there are some repro nippers out there now that
>look exactly like little sheep shears (I keep meaning to buy a pair).  The
>chinese ones are usually black and have short blades and huge finger rings.
>Many of us mentioned not having seen these in period sources, and having
>seen several originals that looked just like modern scissors (see above...).
>By period I do specifically mean the American Revolution, I have seen very
>similar scissors in older (16th century) sources.

Jost Amman, one of my main sources (he published illustrations c.1560) 
shows the sheep-shear kind of scissors, so I use the little Japanese ones 
for my Ren German character.  I also have a 2" pair Clover, the modern 
notions company, made, but they're stainless and look it, so they're in my 
modern sewing kit.  I don't use this shape for anything later than 1600.

For Regency/Federal period I would only use the modern hinge-in-the-middle 
shape of scissors, having seen a few antiques/repros of that period, in 
places like e-bay.  I just don't bother getting a pair because I do that 
period so infrequently, and then only to dance.  (California knew very 
little of George IV or George Washington, so there's not much call for 
recreating it here except to dance).

Kayta
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 01:47:59 -0800
Status: RO

Thanks for the leads, but I guess I was hoping for specifics.  What one or 
two things really set the period in a historical sewing basket?  I know 
what un-sets it ;)

>Without catching up to the rest of today's mail:  Corticelli silk thread comes
>on wooden spools with the label printed right on the wood.  I haven't 
>bought any
>lately, but I used to get it (sewing silk and buttonhole) at International 
>Silks
>& Woolens and 3rd Street Fabrics in Los Angeles.
>
>In general, anything that doesn't draw attention to itself by being plastic or
>otherwise synthetic should serve.
>
>MaggiRos
>
>
>What else should go in there?  What
> > distinguishing things will make the contents of one basket look Victorian
> > and that of the other look late Victorian/Edwardian?  (All the women's
> > magazines of each period can tell me what the outsides look like.)
> >
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a 12th Century lady's giant canvas totebag
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 03:26:18 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> How giant are you thinking of?  Surely your harp key
> and strings aren't 
> that big? 

Everything I'm talking about would easily fit into a
gallon zip-lock bag.  I didn't know if a simple
shoulder bag was "allowed" or if it was hopelessly
non-period unless you're a farmer and it's one of
those seed-sowing bags!

 What do you put your harp in?
> 
This is a pathetic instance of turning a simple sewing
project into a nightmare of complexity!  ;-)   When I
bought Rosamunde (my cherrywood lap harp) she was so
expensive that I couldn't afford a case and have been
carrying her around naked (her, not me, sillies!) for
the past seven years.  Two years ago I decided to sew
a fabric case for her -- just a big harp-shaped
drawstring bag.  But then I got so carried away with
Victorian crazy-quilt patchwork, embroidery and other
embellishments that (a) I don't seem to have the time
& energy to finish it and (b) I would now need a case
to protect the delicate hyper-embellished treasure
that the case has become!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"  

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Jan 27 06:17:43 2002
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 06:52:35 -0500
Status: RO


>My distict apologies, ladies and gentlemen, for having to do this -- but I 
>have written to the list moderator AND tried to unsubscribe several times 
>and, as they say, the "list ain't having any."


This is a fabulous place for knowledge and interesting information, but my 
SCA years are long gone, and I can't read 30+ emails every day in the hopes 
of occasionally finding a nugget of info on World War I fashions...


List moderator, please note and unsubscribe me.  Thank you.


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a 12th Century lady's giant canvas totebag
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:39:31 +0000
Status: RO

Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> wrote
>
>--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>> How giant are you thinking of?  Surely your harp key
>> and strings aren't
>> that big?
>
>Everything I'm talking about would easily fit into a
>gallon zip-lock bag.  I didn't know if a simple
>shoulder bag was "allowed" or if it was hopelessly
>non-period unless you're a farmer and it's one of
>those seed-sowing bags!
>
I have been led to believe that shoulder bags are more correct than 
pouches for 12th century, certainly for women because they wore fancy 
girdles rather than practical belts you could hang things off.  My 
"essentials" bag for Conquest is a small (6in square?) shoulder bag 
which I wear diagonally all the time - it takes the car keys, the 
contact lens case, the suncream and my lucet.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 05:05:28 -0800 (PST)
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--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>I have been led to believe that shoulder bags are
>more correct than pouches for 12th century,
>certainly for women because they wore fancy girdles
>rather than practical belts you could hang things
>off.

Aha!!  Problem/mystery solved, thank you!  The lovely
little pouchy-thing I made could only hold a credit
card, driver's license & a single key because it had
to be light enough to hang off the afore-mentioned
fancy girdle.  I think I'll keep it, it's so pretty
and there was something I read about fancy embroidered
little alms-bags, but now I can happily construct a
bag for harp key, strings and even a small portable
embroidery project.  

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

__________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking tunic pattern from Haithabu
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 11:24:54 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Jean-
	I've been trying to check out one of my photos, but it's
too dark to see much at the waist.

> I and a friend in Australia have beenresearching some of the textile
> (wool) finds from Haithabu with the view to making a tunic based on
> them. These finds were published by Inga Hägg (I. Hägg, Die Textilfunde
> aus dem Hafen von Haithabu. Berichte über dieAusgrabungen in Haithabu,
> Bericht 20. Neumünster: Karl Wachholz Verlag, 1984.) with not too much
> info on how and why the fragments were integrated into a costume. There
> is a tunic on a dummy at the Wikinger Museum Haithabu that is based on
> the finds. The finds are from several different pieces of fabric and so
> may not of been in the same tunic, in fact probably not.
	Hmm, did your friend see the dummy at the museum, or is
Hagg saying that it's there? I was just htere last July, and
was there prieviously in '96, and I saw no dummies of any
costuming things. However, there *is* a dummy at the Ribe
museum that seems to be wearing a Hedeby costume (that's the
photo I was trying to examine, unsuccessfully; it's in a dim
area). The pants on the dummy are red on the front and
orange on the back as has been described for some pants find
at Hedeby. It's wearing a belt, so we couldn't really tell
much about a seam at the waist.

> These finds have some very interesting features (eg slits in the gores to reach
> your pouch, curved sholder/arm cutouts) but one of the most curious is Hägg
> saying that there is a horizontal seam around the waist. Other examples of this
> in this time period are exceedingly rare (the Viborg tunic has a false seam
> around the front and back). Unfortunately Hägg doesn't elaborate on why she
> believes there to be this seam although it is important to note that both sholder
> pieces (one front and one back origionally joined with a sholder seam) have the
> warp horizontal. This in itself is rather odd.
	I don't know about the pocket slits in the gores, but there
is a scrap of fabric on display (and in the exhibition book)
that shows an area of a rounded neck and a rounded armsceye.
One of the really annoying finds about Hedeby is that it was
a trading town for quite a long while, and not everything
found there is viking age. It's just not necessarily
possible to figure out which is and which isn't.

> So my questions are;
> - Has anyone got any references to other tunics (up to ~13th cent) that have
> horizontal waist seams?
> 
> - If there is no waist seam then there must be single pieces hanging from the
> sholder to the hem front and back (the gores had their warps approx. vertical as
> is usual). Has anyone any ideas on whether this is likely and what problems
> may be encounted in doing this?
	Well, I have made apron-dressed that I had to cut
cross-grain like this. It was the only way to get the garmet
out of the amount of fabric that I had. Since the linen was
a tabby-weave, it didn't seem to make any difference. It
hangs just fine. But then, my pieces were straight
rectangles, no angles involved to mess with the bias. If you
are working with scraps, trying to piece something together
and that is the only way to make the panel big enough....
why not?

> 3. That due to limitations in the amount of fabric available (or some other
> reason), the upper and lower portions of the tunic were different with the two
> being joined by a waist seam.
	Again, if you are piecing from left over fabric, you might
have enough to go around the body, but need to piece at the
waist to make a lower skirt for the tunic. Besides, the seam
would be hidden with the belt.

	I have a copy of the book, but my German is so old that
about all I can do is read the captions and occasional bits
of text. Gee I wish someone would translate it!!

	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Preserving books?
From: Gary Walker <vefstjorn@ravensgard.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 18:28:16 -0800
Status: RO

on 1/25/02 9:24 AM, aleed at aleed@dnaco.net wrote:

> 
> I'm buying some unfinished bookcases, and plan to finish them myself.
> They're going to be holding some really pricy and really old books--some
> over 200 years old.  Does anyone know what finishes I should use or avoid?
> Is linseed oil OK, or should I use polyurethane? Will having glass doors
> on the front help preserve them, or should they get some air flow?
> 
> Rather off topic, I know, but there are fabric conservationists on this
> list and I was hoping they might have some pointers. :)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea

Drea, 

http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/ has zillions of preservation related links,
and a finder for professional conservators.  I hunted for a simple FAQ with
an answer for this question, but there was too much stuff.

... My husband the woodworker is now available.  He agrees about
polyurethane's virtures, as Fred suggested.

However he disagrees about the glass.

Modern wood-pulp paper attracts dust mites as it ages.  A snugly-fitted
glass door will keep moisture down inside (and we live in the Pacific
NorthWET) and dust mite debris out of the rest of the house.  A well-fit
door will create an interior micro-climate that stays steady when the
outside (house interior) micro-climate fluctuates in temperature and
humidity.  If moisture inside a closed bookcase is an extreme concern there
are a number of ways to capture what moisture is inside; for example, a
Dri-Z-Air "water sucker", or crystalline dessicant packets.

Hope this helps,
Chimene & Gerek


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From: Margaret Farrow <mlysett@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 09:06:55 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I agree.  That would be wonderful.
Margaret

--- "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> Then for the purposes of this list, we are
> neighbors. Perhaps we can meet
> sometime, when we are not both incredibly busy.
> -Megan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margaret Farrow
> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 5:26 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bolt Racks-fabric storage
> 
> 
> Salisbury, Maryland...20 minutes from the
> beach...about two hours from you.
> Margaret
> 
> --- "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> > I'm in a Maryland suburb of DC, Gaithersburg, to
> be
> > precise.  Where are you?
> > -Megan McHugh
> 
> 
> 
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:14:02 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:44 PM -0500 1/25/02, Lyn Greaves- Thorny Rose wrote:
>According to Ewen at Long Ship Trader's (the only person I have 
>actually asked about this)- wooden thread winders were available in 
>SCA period (nothing more specific was asked) and they were most 
>likely a small piece of wood that you wound your thread around.

Mind you, when someone at an SCA event is trying to sell me something 
and assures me that it's period but can't give me any specifics, I 
may not always take the claim at face value!

Heather
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 11:07:38 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:47 AM -0800 1/27/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>Thanks for the leads, but I guess I was hoping for specifics.  What 
>one or two things really set the period in a historical sewing 
>basket?  I know what un-sets it ;)

When I researched this, I was only looking at pre-1600 (roughly) 
material, so it's hard to draw any really significant conclusions 
(and the early end of my scope was, realistically, only around the 
13th century, with a few earlier outliers for archaeological 
material).

Within that period (roughly13-16th century) there was actually a 
surprising continuity of use in the _containers_.  Baskets of similar 
shapes and designs get used for similar purpoes throughout.  Small to 
medium-sized bentwood boxes get used (or at least associated with) 
images of sewing throughout.  The one style of container that seems 
to be innovative towards the 16th century is a "sewing box" or 
"sewing pillow" -- a rigid container either shaped like one of those 
little portable writing desks, or simply like a broad shallow box, 
with a padded and cloth-covered top on which the work was done.

In terms of sewing _equipment_ (as opposed to containers) about the 
only items consistently visible in the artwork I studied that could 
be compared are scissors.  And, again, there was a significant 
continuity from the earliest to the latest images -- everyone was 
using relatively modern-looking hinged scissors with small round 
loops.  (I've got some earlier archaeological examples of this style 
too, but I can't contextualize them as well as the artistic images.) 
For people doing _handwork_ (as opposed, for example, to finishing or 
cutting cloth yardage, where I sometimes found the one-piece 
spring-shears) this is the only style of scissor I saw in my data.

Like a lot of people, I'm attracted to the small one-piece 
spring-shears because they look "non-modern", but for medieval 
handwork I've come to the conclusion that this is one of those 
misguided substitutions of the inaccurate but "exotic" for the 
accurate but "familiar".

Heather
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Preserving books?
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:01:03 -0800
Status: RO

Just a note.  When I visited Marlborough House (Churchill family, home of
the Dukes of Marlborough) and went through the library I noticed that there
was no glass on the doors to the book cases, it was all a decorative
grillwork.  I asked the guide about that, and he said that it allowed the
old books to "breathe", and did not allow moisture to collect inside the
case.  Some of the works in this library are period, others are copies of
Winston Churchill's books from last century.

	Certainly England can be just as moist and the Pacific Northwet!

Regina, home in Portland, OR  (snow!?  Where did someone get this big idea?)
-----------------------------------------
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/ has zillions of preservation related links,
and a finder for professional conservators.  I hunted for a simple FAQ with
an answer for this question, but there was too much stuff.

... My husband the woodworker is now available.  He agrees about
polyurethane's virtures, as Fred suggested.

However he disagrees about the glass.

Modern wood-pulp paper attracts dust mites as it ages.  A snugly-fitted
glass door will keep moisture down inside (and we live in the Pacific
NorthWET) and dust mite debris out of the rest of the house.  A well-fit
door will create an interior micro-climate that stays steady when the
outside (house interior) micro-climate fluctuates in temperature and
humidity.  If moisture inside a closed bookcase is an extreme concern there
are a number of ways to capture what moisture is inside; for example, a
Dri-Z-Air "water sucker", or crystalline dessicant packets.

Hope this helps,
Chimene & Gerek


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Subject: [h-cost] Another Medieval Woman Calendar Mystery
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:08:36 -0800
Status: RO

Greetings,

A Lady friend has spent the past several months, since late October,
looking for a copy of the Medieval Woman Calendar.  Does any know if it
still available and where.


Your humble and obedient servant,
David S Mallinak
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In a message dated 1/27/2002 1:07:33 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
matchlck@erols.com writes:


> Medieval Woman Calendar.  Does any know if it
> still available and where.
> 


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/27/2002 1:07:33 PM Pacific Standard Time, matchlck@erols.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Medieval Woman Calendar.&nbsp; Does any know if it<BR>
still available and where.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Medieval Woman Calendar Mystery
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:15:03 EST
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In a message dated 1/27/2002 1:07:33 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
matchlck@erols.com writes:


> Medieval Woman Calendar.  Does any know if it
> still available and where.
> 

Just checked Amazon.com and the calendar is still available.

Katrin

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/27/2002 1:07:33 PM Pacific Standard Time, matchlck@erols.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Medieval Woman Calendar.&nbsp; Does any know if it<BR>
still available and where.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Just checked Amazon.com and the calendar is still available.<BR>
<BR>
Katrin<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Medieval Woman Calendar Mystery
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 15:18:44 -0700
Status: RO

Hi.  I actually have an extra......would be willing to sell it.
--Sue

"David S. Mallinak" wrote:
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> A Lady friend has spent the past several months, since late October,
> looking for a copy of the Medieval Woman Calendar.  Does any know if it
> still available and where.
> 
> Your humble and obedient servant,
> David S Mallinak
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:51:35 -0600
Status: RO

There was a show on PBS called "The 1900 House".  For those of you 
that missed it, it was about a family of 5 that voulenteered to 
be "transplanted" to "life at the turn of the century".  The 
wife had a set of books published back then about "What ever 
good wife should know about running a household".  

I couldn't find the name of the books, but there is a whole 
page of resources..

http://www.pbs.org/wnet/1900house/resources/index.html

maybe you could find something there about what made up the 
sewing basket.

*g*
Katie

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>snip< 
> What else should go in there?  What distinguishing things will make
> the contents of one basket look Victorian and that of the other look
> late Victorian/Edwardian?  (All the women's magazines of each period
> can tell me what the outsides look like.)
> 
> Kayta
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 00:55:42 +0100
Status: RO

dear list (s),

sorry for the cross-posting, but i really need some help here to generate 
some benefit for all of us.

i have created a number of webpages where i've used german sources, pages 
that i think would be of interest to us all. i'm feeling out of my depth 
with many of the special terms used, so i'm hoping that some of you out 
there can help me translating the stuff into english. other pages need 
translating from french to english. i really hope that some of you take up 
the challenge.

what i ned help with is
- 17th to 19th century hairdos and how they're made up (german, 
hairdresser's language)
- 18th and early 19th century cosmetics (german, chemist's language)
- garsault's "l'art de la lingere" and "l'art du tailleur" (french, 
tailor's language)

if you volunteer to help, you will of course receive credits... and some 
other recompense, but i don't exactly know what that might be yet. state 
your wishes, and we'll see what can be done.


salut,
alexa
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 19:59:09 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:14 PM 01/26/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>DEAL!
>Lady G who's still drooling over her stacks. They are lovely. My favorite 
>pair was a truly hideous pair of 1940's black suede ones I found at a yard 
>sale when I was 8. I wore them til they fell off my feet and couldn't be 
>repaired again. I knew they were ugly then and I know they were ugly now,
why 
>am I still looking for a pair?

Same reason I had a pair of yard sale boots I wore to shreds when I was a
teenager... :D

- Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Medieval Woman Calendar Mystery
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:58:03 +0000
Status: RO

I found mine at Barnes & Noble.

	Arlys


On Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:08:36 -0800 "David S. Mallinak"
<matchlck@erols.com> writes:
> Greetings,
> 
> A Lady friend has spent the past several months, since late October,
> looking for a copy of the Medieval Woman Calendar.  Does any know if 
> it
> still available and where.
> 
> 
> Your humble and obedient servant,
> David S Mallinak
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 17:13:29 +0000
Status: RO

See if you can find a copy of Thomasina Beck's THE EMBROIDERER'S STORY.
There's some wonderful information and period pictures in it. She starts
with the Elizabethans.

				Arlys

On Sun, 27 Jan 2002 11:07:38 -0800 Heather Rose Jones
<hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU> writes:
> At 1:47 AM -0800 1/27/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >Thanks for the leads, but I guess I was hoping for specifics.  What 
> 
> >one or two things really set the period in a historical sewing 
> >basket?  I know what un-sets it ;)
> 
> When I researched this, I was only looking at pre-1600 (roughly) 
> material, so it's hard to draw any really significant conclusions 
> (and the early end of my scope was, realistically, only around the 
> 13th century, with a few earlier outliers for archaeological 
> material).
> 
> Within that period (roughly13-16th century) there was actually a 
> surprising continuity of use in the _containers_.  Baskets of 
> similar 
> shapes and designs get used for similar purpoes throughout.  Small 
> to 
> medium-sized bentwood boxes get used (or at least associated with) 
> images of sewing throughout.  The one style of container that seems 
> to be innovative towards the 16th century is a "sewing box" or 
> "sewing pillow" -- a rigid container either shaped like one of those 
> 
> little portable writing desks, or simply like a broad shallow box, 
> with a padded and cloth-covered top on which the work was done.
> 
> In terms of sewing _equipment_ (as opposed to containers) about the 
> only items consistently visible in the artwork I studied that could 
> be compared are scissors.  And, again, there was a significant 
> continuity from the earliest to the latest images -- everyone was 
> using relatively modern-looking hinged scissors with small round 
> loops.  (I've got some earlier archaeological examples of this style 
> 
> too, but I can't contextualize them as well as the artistic images.) 
> 
> For people doing _handwork_ (as opposed, for example, to finishing 
> or 
> cutting cloth yardage, where I sometimes found the one-piece 
> spring-shears) this is the only style of scissor I saw in my data.
> 
> Like a lot of people, I'm attracted to the small one-piece 
> spring-shears because they look "non-modern", but for medieval 
> handwork I've come to the conclusion that this is one of those 
> misguided substitutions of the inaccurate but "exotic" for the 
> accurate but "familiar".
> 
> Heather
> -- 
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 20:27:36 -0500
Status: RO

At 02:32 PM 01/26/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>This is an answer to a question someone on another list asked me, about the 
>embroidered 'bone stoppers' on my Victorian corset.  She said she didn't 
>mind me re-posting it:

Very interesting, thank you!

-_ Mara

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Preserving books?
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 18:01:23 -0800
Status: RO


I make little book sleeves and cases for mine out of buffered paper.  My
favorite source is Light Impressions. Search on line for archival supply.
It's worth a good read for the information.
The Smithsonian's photo archivist did an all day lecture for the docents &
curators of SJHM (San Jose Hysterical Museum) some years back. This was his
recommendation.  He said, particularly for photos, if possible, to avoid
contact or enclosure with wood as wood is acidic & outgases.  Most paper
made after 1850 is acidic and self-destructs.
Search the h-cost archives under preserving photos &/or books &/or garments.
Many good suggestions presented in the past.
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo tragically pining for all her treasured vintage photos,
fashions plates, etiquette books, housekeeping & other books wrapped in
buffered paper in a climate controlled storage locker.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 18:12:54 -0800
Status: RO

>Here is a pic with my finished Cote and my ladies finished 
>Gown from 12th Night. Her gown is ...
>http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/_2002_006_12.html

Dan F,
Bravi! T'was much fun looking at all the pictures. I confess I wandered thru
most of them. Thanks, BTW, I have your pourpoint analysis translated. Send a
fax # off list & I'll get it to you.
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo 
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Subject: [h-cost] FW: Tapestries
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 18:21:34 -0800
Status: RO


Lookie what Shea found... had to share!
--cin in Tokyo

-----Original Message-----
From: Shea Young [mailto:younganne@usa.net]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 11:01 AM
To: Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com
Subject: Tapestries


Hi there,

You mentioned tapestries in passing and bingo! - look what my husband found.
They are beautiful!
> 
> http://www.tapestrieswp.abcguide.com/galleries/medieval.html

Shea
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 19:34:40 -0800
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>...back as 1870 during one the Orientalism fads, if my memory hasn't
completely left me.
 
These fads seem to recur every 20 years for the last 200 or more.
 
>It was also not unlike the "return" to republican rule and the simplified
clothing through 
>classical dress during the 1790's to 1810. Does the turning of a century
begin this change?
 
Wars, & depression certainly seem to solidify such thoughts.  I'm thinking
in particular of the 1890s depression & the Craftsman movement.
 
>Imagine a large tea house with Victorian gingerbread ornamentation. They
are just strange at best.

Japan has happily borrowed Victoriana and incorporated it locally.  There
are Japanese tea shops (cafes, not the cha no yu houses) hotel lobbies,
streetscapes & even an entire 19th c planned housing development with
Victorian-oid encrustations.  Real 19th c buildings are extremely rare in
Tokyo with the constant "urban renewal", the skyrocketing land values (even
after the real estate crash in the 1980-90s). These structures were even
rare after the rather thorough firebombing of Tokyo during WWII.  There is
rumored to be a ~200 yr old izakaya near Asakusa. Supposedly been in that
family for 8-9 generations.
 
Personally, I find it all fascinating >; )  
 
Yup!
 
Swooping back to costume... There are Japanese made 19th c fashion plates
(in yukio-e style) of ladies variously in hoops, bustles, and wasp-waists.
I confess that I didnt buy the 3-plate set of the imperial family in
mega-bustles. Too pricey since the colors had bled.  Saw another of a
restaurant scene with a gaijin in a tricornered hat & breeches in the middle
background.  Over US$400!   I did buy a 2-plate set of a street scene
including a uniformed Japanese General riding in a rickshaw and a boy with
hakama (large flowing Japanese "trousers"), geta & tabi (wooden sandals,
split-toe socks), circa 1880 Western suit coat and a derby!  How could I
resist such a treasure!  Cho-segoi !

--cin 
Cynthia in Tokyo, sulking cuz the antiques fleamarket was rained out last
weekend

 


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<DIV><SPAN class=328370003-28012002>&gt;...</SPAN>back as 1870 during one the 
Orientalism fads, if my memory hasn't completely left me.</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=328370003-28012002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=328370003-28012002>These fads&nbsp;seem to recur every 20 years for the 
last&nbsp;200 or more.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=328370003-28012002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT><SPAN class=328370003-28012002>&gt;It was also not unlike the 
"return" to republican rule and the simplified clothing through 
</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT><SPAN class=328370003-28012002>&gt;classical dress during the 1790's 
to 1810.&nbsp;Does the turning of a century begin this 
change?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT><SPAN class=328370003-28012002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=328370003-28012002>Wars, &amp; depression certainly seem to solidify such 
thoughts.&nbsp; I'm thinking in particular of the 1890s depression &amp; the 
Craftsman movement.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><FONT 
face="Times New Roman"><FONT color=#000000><FONT size=3><SPAN 
class=328370003-28012002>&gt;</SPAN>Imagine a large tea house with Victorian 
gingerbread ornamentation. They are just strange at 
best.</FONT></FONT></FONT><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=328370003-28012002><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff 
size=2>Japan has happily borrowed Victoriana and incorporated it locally.&nbsp; 
There are Japanese tea shops (cafes, not the cha no yu houses) hotel lobbies, 
streetscapes &amp; even an entire 19th c planned housing development&nbsp;with 
Victorian-oid encrustations.&nbsp; Real 19th c buildings are extremely rare in 
Tokyo with the constant "urban renewal", the skyrocketing land values (even 
after the real estate crash in the 1980-90s). These structures were even rare 
after the rather thorough firebombing of Tokyo during WWII.&nbsp; There is 
rumored to be a ~200 yr old izakaya near Asakusa. Supposedly been in that family 
for 8-9 generations.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=328370003-28012002><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=328370003-28012002>Personally, I find it all fascinating &gt;; 
)&nbsp; </SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=328370003-28012002></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=328370003-28012002><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff 
size=2>Yup!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=328370003-28012002><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=328370003-28012002><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff 
size=2>Swooping back to costume... </FONT></SPAN><SPAN 
class=328370003-28012002><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2>There 
are Japanese made 19th c fashion plates (in yukio-e style) of ladies variously 
in hoops, bustles, and wasp-waists.&nbsp; I confess that I didnt buy the 3-plate 
set of the imperial family in mega-bustles. Too pricey since the colors had 
bled.&nbsp; Saw another of a restaurant scene&nbsp;with&nbsp;a gaijin in a 
tricornered hat &amp; breeches in the middle background.&nbsp; Over US$400! 
&nbsp; I did buy a 2-plate set of a street scene including a uniformed Japanese 
General riding in a rickshaw and a boy with hakama (large flowing Japanese 
"trousers"), geta &amp; tabi (wooden sandals, split-toe socks),&nbsp;circa 1880 
Western&nbsp;suit coat&nbsp;and a derby!&nbsp; How could I resist such a 
treasure!&nbsp; Cho-segoi !</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial size=2>--cin</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial><FONT 
size=2>Cynthia&nbsp;<SPAN class=328370003-28012002>in</SPAN> Tokyo<SPAN 
class=328370003-28012002>, sulking cuz the antiques fleamarket was rained out 
last weekend</SPAN></FONT></FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</P></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 23:14:17 -0500
Status: RO

> Like a lot of people, I'm attracted to the small one-piece
> spring-shears because they look "non-modern", but for medieval
> handwork I've come to the conclusion that this is one of those
> misguided substitutions of the inaccurate but "exotic" for the
> accurate but "familiar".
>
> Heather

Hi. The one thing that I noticed in the MoL book about the medieval
shears vs. the modern Chinese snips is that the bow (the U-shaped spring
section of the shears) of the medieval version has a rounded section at
the apex, bent more like a C= than a U, even on the smallest ones, which
are larger than the modern Chinese snips. The MoL book does not give
indications of specific usage (haircutting vs clothcutting vs
sheepshearing, etc.), but I have seen period illos with both scissors and
shears being used for many purposes. It seems that scissors were used in
instances where greater cutting force was needed (such as leathercutting,
for example, in instances when the moonshaped knife was not in use), and
shears where the surface area of the cut was needed to be largest
(woolshearing, etc.). These are generalizations, though. It may also be
cultural, based on period (the shears seem to be earlier), regional, or a
mixture of some of the above, or none at all. I don't know of a study on
the subject, but I am interested in your findings on containers. I have
seen illos of the bentwood materials (modern versions can be gotten from
Scandinavian sources) and some woven pieces. I have noticed in my
research on surgical things that the boxes used to pack bandages look
remarkably like those used for sewing.  Mike T.

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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 23:53:48 -0500
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Hi. Oh, well. The best I have is the (probably) ubiquitous photo
portrait of the Emperor on his white horse. He is wearing Westernized
military uniform, nothing like wearing hakama with a suitcoat. Being
1880, he (your plate of the boy) was not carrying a katana, but perhaps
he has a bamboo walking stick? Great image!  Mike T.



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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 21:02:15 -0800
Status: RO


> Hi Daniel.
> Thanks a lot for those photos. I browsed and enjoyed all the wonderfull
> photos. It was like a fairytale, Bravo!
>
> Bjarne

You're most welcome.  Howeer, I didn't takethe photo's, just posed for a
few.  :)  The gentleman that took them is starting a business, so he has
been shooting a lot of portraits and so on like that.  He's doing good work.
:)

Dan

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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 22:25:30 -0800
Status: RO

Cynthia Barnes writes, in a message sent 07:34 PM 1/27/02 -0800:

>Swooping back to costume... There are Japanese made 19th c fashion plates 
>(in yukio-e style) of ladies variously in hoops, bustles, and 
>wasp-waists.  I confess that I didnt buy the 3-plate set of the imperial 
>family in mega-bustles. Too pricey since the colors had bled.  Saw another 
>of a restaurant scene with a gaijin in a tricornered hat & breeches in the 
>middle background.  Over US$400!   I did buy a 2-plate set of a street 
>scene including a uniformed Japanese General riding in a rickshaw and a 
>boy with hakama (large flowing Japanese "trousers"), geta & tabi (wooden 
>sandals, split-toe socks), circa 1880 Western suit coat and a derby!  How 
>could I resist such a treasure!  Cho-segoi !

I guess you'll have to see my copy of 'The World of the Meiji Print', which 
contains Japanese wood block prints both of Japanese women in Western 
dresses, and Western women (the ones in hoops are the funniest).


Kayta
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 22:29:35 -0800
Status: RO


>Like a lot of people, I'm attracted to the small one-piece spring-shears 
>because they look "non-modern", but for medieval handwork I've come to the 
>conclusion that this is one of those misguided substitutions of the 
>inaccurate but "exotic" for the accurate but "familiar".

Jost Amman, in his book of woodcuts c.1560, shows these one-piece 
scissors.  Since most of my pre-1600 sewing is done as a 
Landsknecht/Kampfrau, it seems to fit.  My upper-class German SCA persona 
would probably have stork-scissors for needlework use.

>  I don't know of a study on
>the subject, but I am interested in your findings on containers. I have
>seen illos of the bentwood materials (modern versions can be gotten from
>Scandinavian sources) and some woven pieces. I have noticed in my
>research on surgical things that the boxes used to pack bandages look
>remarkably like those used for sewing.

I use a wood box which used to contain Madelines - oval with thin wood 
sides and a wood top - similar to the round ones I see in Jost Amman, for 
my Kampfrau.  My upper class German persona doesn't really have a sewing 
box yet, but it would be fancier than a plain unpainted wood box.

Kayta
    //// \\\
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 08:19:29 +0000 (GMT)
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Dear Katie

The 1900 House was originally filmed for Channel 4 in the UK.  They released a book to go with the
series and it will probably have the information about those "Housewifes" books.  I'm not sure if
amazon in america has it but here are the details from the UK.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0752272284/o/qid=1012205846/sr=8-2/ref=sr_aps_b_2_2/202-4284777-3403830

Regards

Rachel

 --- Katie <nejma@tds.net> wrote: > There was a show on PBS called "The 1900 House".  For those of
you 
> that missed it, it was about a family of 5 that voulenteered to 
> be "transplanted" to "life at the turn of the century".  The 
> wife had a set of books published back then about "What ever 
> good wife should know about running a household".  
> 
> I couldn't find the name of the books, but there is a whole 
> page of resources..
> 
> http://www.pbs.org/wnet/1900house/resources/index.html
> 
> maybe you could find something there about what made up the 
> sewing basket.
> 
> *g*
> Katie
> 
> Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >snip< 
> > What else should go in there?  What distinguishing things will make
> > the contents of one basket look Victorian and that of the other look
> > late Victorian/Edwardian?  (All the women's magazines of each period
> > can tell me what the outsides look like.)
> > 
> > Kayta
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: 14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 00:29:19 -0800
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Where is he located?  I can't take a decent picture of my costumes to save 
my life.  If we're close I'd love to send him business.

Jennifer


>From: "Daniel Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
>Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 21:02:15 -0800
>
>
> > Hi Daniel.
> > Thanks a lot for those photos. I browsed and enjoyed all the wonderfull
> > photos. It was like a fairytale, Bravo!
> >
> > Bjarne
>
>You're most welcome.  Howeer, I didn't takethe photo's, just posed for a
>few.  :)  The gentleman that took them is starting a business, so he has
>been shooting a lot of portraits and so on like that.  He's doing good 
>work.
>:)
>
>Dan
>
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 00:59:49 -0800
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> Hi. Oh, well. The best I have is the (probably) ubiquitous photo
> portrait of the Emperor on his white horse. He is wearing Westernized
> military uniform, nothing like wearing hakama with a suitcoat. 

Havent seen it. (Maybe it's not that ubiquitous? <grin>) Which Emperor &
what date?

> Being
> 1880, he (your plate of the boy) was not carrying a katana, 
> but perhaps he has a bamboo walking stick? Great image!  Mike T.

I think it was books or boxes. When I get a Round Tuit someday I'll scan in
some of my handcolored prints & plates from all over the world.

>I guess you'll have to see my copy of 'The World of the 
>Meiji Print', which contains Japanese wood block prints both 
> of Japanese women in Western dresses, and Western women 
>(the ones in hoops are the funniest).

OK, I accept! Trying desperately to liberate some more Meiji prints for
myself. I just love the changes in fashion (clothing and all the other arts,
too) when cultures bump into each other.
--cin
Cynthia in Tokyo
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Dan,

You wrote:
  Here is a pic with my finished Cote and my ladies finished Gown from =
12th
  Night. Her gown is made basically from Mistress Cori's instructions (
  http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/corikirtle.html ), although =
could
  be a bit tighter.

  http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/_2002_006_12.html

  The plaque belts are from Raymond's Quiet Press, the linen chause are =
from
  Historic Enterprises as are the shoes that you can't see in this pic.

  Looks good, wonderful photograph. BUT....where are the =
headcoverings??? Everybody in the 14th c wore something on their head, =
especially the ladies. Men had at least a coif or hood if it was colder =
and endless ways of draping the latter about the head. I've often seen =
this in Americans; they don't want to wear hats or veils because they =
don't in their own 'mundane' life as well (except for baseball caps). =
Why is that?

  By the way: the cloth is patterned. Is this a medieval woven pattern =
or what? Just curious.


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

------=_NextPart_000_011F_01C1A7F5.73A7FDE0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Dan,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>Here is a pic with my finished Cote and my ladies finished Gown =
from
  12th<BR>Night. Her gown is made basically from Mistress Cori's =
instructions
  (<BR><A
  =
href=3D"http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/corikirtle.html">http://=
sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/corikirtle.html</A>
  ), although could<BR>be a bit tighter.<BR><BR><A
  =
href=3D"http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/_2002_006_12.html">http://=
www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/_2002_006_12.html</A><BR><BR>The
  plaque belts are from Raymond's Quiet Press, the linen chause are
  from<BR>Historic Enterprises as are the shoes that you can't see in =
this
  pic.<BR><BR>Looks good, wonderful photograph. BUT....where are the
  headcoverings??? Everybody in the 14th c wore something on their head, =

  especially the ladies. Men had at least a coif or hood if it was =
colder and
  endless ways of draping the latter about the head. I've often seen =
this in
  Americans; they don't want to wear hats or veils because they don't in =
their
  own 'mundane' life as well (except for baseball caps). Why is =
that?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>By the way: the cloth is patterned. Is this a medieval woven =
pattern or
  what? Just curious.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></B=
ODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 08:02:06 -0500
Status: RO


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<blockquote TYPE=CITE>
<blockquote 
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;&nbsp;By
the way: the cloth is patterned. Is this a medieval woven pattern or what?
Just curious.&nbsp;&nbsp;Henk&nbsp;&nbsp;Visit the revised and even more
colourful tScapreel website;
<br>Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
<br>Now on our very own domain: <a href="http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</a></blockquote>
</blockquote>

<p><br>Two questions:&nbsp; Was patterned cloth not used in the 14th cent?&nbsp;
AND, I went to your website, but couldn't find the link to the English
page.&nbsp; What I saw looked great, but I wish I could understand it.&nbsp;
How do I get to the English?
<p>Andrea
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: 14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 08:51:37 -0800
Status: RO


> Where is he located?  I can't take a decent picture of my costumes to save
> my life.  If we're close I'd love to send him business.
>
> Jennifer

He lives in Southern California.  He came to the West Kingdom 12th Night to
do the photos.  If you conrtact me off-list I'll try to get you an email
address if you'd like.

Dan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 09:18:04 -0800
Status: RO

<
Looks good, wonderful photograph. BUT....where are the headcoverings???
Everybody in the 14th c wore something on their head, especially the ladies.
Men had at least a coif or hood if it was colder and endless ways of draping
the latter about the head. I've often seen this in Americans; they don't
want to wear hats or veils because they don't in their own 'mundane' life as
well (except for baseball caps). Why is that?
>

The hoods and so on are still in parts on my living room floor.  They will
eventually be finished.

Americans in general don't tend to wear hats, so they tend to forget that
detail when doing historical costumes, particularly since most of the books
that are readily available here gloss over the subject.

<
By the way: the cloth is patterned. Is this a medieval woven pattern or
what? Just curious.
>

The pattern is what was easily available on very short notice that gave
something of the right feel.  Getting fabric with a truly medieval pattern
is almost impossible here, but you can get close with some of the upholstery
fabrics that are available, if you're careful.  I started her dress after
the 1st of December (drafting the pattern.)  I moved in the middle of the
month.  So there wasn't much time to hunt for fabric.  However, patterned
fabrics of many kinds seem to have been used during the 14th century, at
least in England and France.  The deBlois pourpoint is one good example, but
there are several others.  There are a few good pictures and/or diagrams in
the Museum of London, Textiles and Clothing book (which has been republished
by Boydell and Brewer.)

Dan

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:19:34 -0500
Status: RO


I asked about this on another list that I'm that is full of people who make 
shoes and tend to be interested in trivia such as this....

No body remembers any details other than there was a television program a 
while back (months? years? unknown)that said that at the time it was a 
breakthrough discovery, because it was a -physical- method for archeologists 
to differentiate if a grave was Saxon vs Celtic during certain time periods 
where the two overlapped geographically. The original foot difference 
discovery was made by a podiatrist turned amateur archeologist.  I believe, 
but am not positive, that the
difference had to do with length to width ratio of the foot.


Parsla

> >Gawd, what would that about those of us who have a sort of
> >generic-mongrel-Heinz57-british-isles type of ethnic background....?
> >Sue, WASP-ish far enough back to wear yellow and black stripes...;-P
>
>Beats the heck out of me, since I fall in that category, too :D  I think
>the study was done in England, in areas where the population base isn't so
>mixed as it is in the States.
>
>-- Mara
>


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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:07:47 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


>From what I recall, the anglo-saxons had toes that went straight across
while the celts had a long big toe and the rest of the toes tapered more
sharply from there.

Drea

 On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, Parsla Liepa wrote:

> 
> I asked about this on another list that I'm that is full of people who make 
> shoes and tend to be interested in trivia such as this....
> 
> No body remembers any details other than there was a television program a 
> while back (months? years? unknown)that said that at the time it was a 
> breakthrough discovery, because it was a -physical- method for archeologists 
> to differentiate if a grave was Saxon vs Celtic during certain time periods 
> where the two overlapped geographically. The original foot difference 
> discovery was made by a podiatrist turned amateur archeologist.  I believe, 
> but am not positive, that the
> difference had to do with length to width ratio of the foot.
> 
> 
> Parsla
> 
> > >Gawd, what would that about those of us who have a sort of
> > >generic-mongrel-Heinz57-british-isles type of ethnic background....?
> > >Sue, WASP-ish far enough back to wear yellow and black stripes...;-P
> >
> >Beats the heck out of me, since I fall in that category, too :D  I think
> >the study was done in England, in areas where the population base isn't so
> >mixed as it is in the States.
> >
> >-- Mara
> >
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
> http://www.hotmail.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:16:41 -0600
Status: RO



Rachel wrote:

>>snip<<
> I'm not sure if amazon in america has it but here are the 

 > details from the UK.
 >

I just checked and yes it is availible on the american amazon.
I just wish I could remember the name of the books themselves.
But it aired in 2000, I remember bits and pieces of the show
itself.

There is simular show airing April 29, 2002, called "The
Frontier House" set in 1883 Montana.

http://www.pbs.org/wnet/frontierhouse/

Katie

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:56:51 +0100
Status: RO

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  Henk & Pauline 't Jong
  tScapreel
  Medieval Consultants
  Dordrecht - Netherland


  Hi Andrea,

  You wrote:
      Two questions:  Was patterned cloth not used in the 14th cent? 

  Yes, but patterns of a certain style only (mostly in silks and =
silk-velvets of brocades, and these were very costly) or else =
embroidered with a repeating motive (so not woven). The last were also =
very costly and both were only worn by very rich merchants or as =
courtgear for the more well-to-do aristocracy. As far as I could make =
out the small pattern used in the cottes in the photograph; this does =
not look much like the usually bigger patterns of both examples I =
mention above.

      AND, I went to your website, but couldn't find the link to the =
English page.  What I saw looked great, but I wish I could               =
  understand it.  How do I get to the English?

  At the top of the Dutch homepage / indexpage is an English sentence =
which says: To read and view our pages in English, click HERE
  So that's basically what you have to do. I just tried it again and it =
works alright for me.

  Hope this helps,


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
  Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR>Hi Andrea,</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Two questions:&nbsp; Was patterned cloth not =
used in
  the 14th cent?&nbsp; </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Yes, but patterns of a certain style only (mostly in silks and
  silk-velvets of brocades, and these were very costly) or else =
embroidered with
  a repeating motive (so not woven). The last were also very costly and =
both
  were only worn by very rich merchants or as courtgear for the more =
well-to-do
  aristocracy. As far as I could make out the small pattern used in the =
cottes
  in the photograph; this does not look much like the usually bigger =
patterns of
  both examples I mention above.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; AND, I went to your website, but couldn't find =
the
  link to the English page.&nbsp; What I saw looked great, but I wish I =
could
  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
  understand it.&nbsp; How do I get to the English? </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>At the top of the Dutch homepage / indexpage is an English =
sentence which
  says: <FONT face=3DArial size=3D-1><STRONG>To read and view our pages =
in English,
  click <A href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl/html/indexenglish.html" =
target=3D_top>HERE
  </A></STRONG></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>So that's basically what you have to do. I just tried it again =
and it
  works alright for me.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Hope this helps,</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></B=
ODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 28 13:06:47 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:42:06 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

> Looks good, wonderful photograph. BUT....where are the headcoverings???
> Everybody in the 14th c wore something on their head, especially the ladies.
> Men had at least a coif or hood if it was colder and endless ways of draping
> the latter about the head. I've often seen this in Americans; they don't
> want to wear hats or veils because they don't in their own 'mundane' life as
> well (except for baseball caps). Why is that?

I noticed that, too, Henk.  I looked through the whole picture gallery,
and, for the most part, they look like -- modern people wearing Halloween
costumes.  Modern hairstyles, modern makeup, modern underpinnings... it's
like watching a '50s Hollywood costume drama and noticing the dated
hairstyles :)

Maybe people get entrenched in a way of looking at themselves, and resist
wearing headgear and leaving off / changing their makeup because it's so
much part of them that they don't "see" the difference between their look
and what you actually see in period artwork.

-- Mara

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:01:47 -0600
Status: RO

Okay so who had toes like this...
Second toe longer then big toe..
(take her sock off and puts her foot on the floor, then
notices the large gap between her big toe and second toe.
"Chimp" pops in her head....puts her sock back on and
shuts up)


aleed wrote:

>>From what I recall, the anglo-saxons had toes that went straight across
> while the celts had a long big toe and the rest of the toes tapered more
> sharply from there.
> 
> Drea
> 


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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:05:43 -0500
Status: RO


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 28 13:49:47 2002
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Foot shape study
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 19:25:27 GMT
Status: RO

On Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:01:47 -0600, the following was written in this
electric book by Katie <nejma@tds.net>:

>Okay so who had toes like this...
>Second toe longer then big toe..

Toefingers! I have them too. Very useful when picking up pencils nad
other things off the floor.

>(take her sock off and puts her foot on the floor, then
>notices the large gap between her big toe and second toe.
>"Chimp" pops in her head....puts her sock back on and
>shuts up)

In my family, we call these 'piano-player's feet', and most of us hve
them.

Hmm. I'm (traceably) German, French, Irish (apparently 'Viking irish'
according to etymolygy of names), Welsh, English, Iriquois and some
other things on my father's side that we haven't tracked down yet.

Perhaps its a mutt thing?

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:47:58 -0600
Status: RO



chimericalgirl@attbi.com wrote:

>
> Toefingers! I have them too. Very useful when picking up pencils nad
> other things off the floor.
>


Don't forget pinching!!  *L*

 
> 
> 
> In my family, we call these 'piano-player's feet', and most of us hve
> them.
> 
> Hmm. I'm (traceably) German, French, Irish (apparently 'Viking irish'
> according to etymolygy of names), Welsh, English, Iriquois and some
> other things on my father's side that we haven't tracked down yet.
> 


Well I was adopted, and my parents have been little to no help in
at least giving me a medical history for my biological parents.
 From my mother I get "Why do you want to know?  You never loved
us anyway." *deep sigh* Such a drama queen.  My dad, all he will
tell me is that my biological mother was having an affair with a
married man, and he never met her.   My sister says she remembers
a social worker coming to the house before I showed up.  I found
a case number for my adoption years back, but it is no good to me
cause Texas says I can't even look at my own records.   Soooo here
I sit, ancestrally depreived. *L*




> Perhaps its a mutt thing?
> 
> Maura
> ---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
> "We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
> hand..." - the Flash Girls
>         }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 28 14:16:52 2002
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 11:52:07 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I am making good enough progress on my take on the
Shinrone Gown (late 16th century Irish) that I think I
might be able to wear it within the next couple of
weeks.  So now I am considering what to do with my
hair.  I would like to copy the style of a woman
pictured on this page:

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/oneills/clothing.html

In the picture directly under the heading "Women" the
one on the right (in the blue dress) has braids
wrapping across the top of her head, with some sort of
circlet on top.  What is that, exactly?  Is it metal? 
Leather?  Braided trim?  Something else entirely? 
What are the little white dots made of?

(For those of you who have Dunlevy's book "Dress in
Ireland" there's a nice full-page color print of this
picture in there.)

Incidentally, when I was looking for a nice on-line
copy of this picture, I ran across this page:

http://jan.ucc.nau.edu/~wew/celt-clothing/

which has the same picture, in a grainy,
black-and-white version, but it does not identify the
picture.  What is this?  Is this the original, that
someone has cleaned up and colored in to result in the
first one, or is this a poor-quality copy of the
original color picture?  Or is one a redrawing of the
other?

So many questions....  Thanks as usual in advance for
all your helpful insights.

-Angela

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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Foot shape/toes
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:02:54 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I recall from my Genetics class in high school that in
terms of toe length, the allele ("version" of a gene)
for second toe longer than big toe is dominant. (So if
your mom gives you the allele for big toe longest, and
your dad gives you the allele for second toe longest,
you will grow up with second toe longest.)  So, as
backgrounds mix, more and more people will assumedly
be born with, what do you call them, toefingers.

-Angela


--- chimericalgirl@attbi.com wrote:
> On Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:01:47 -0600, the following
> was written in this
> electric book by Katie <nejma@tds.net>:
> 
> >Okay so who had toes like this...
> >Second toe longer then big toe..
> 
> Toefingers! I have them too. Very useful when
> picking up pencils nad
> other things off the floor.
> > 
> Perhaps its a mutt thing?
> 
> Maura

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:15:55 -0800
Status: RO


> >From what I recall, the anglo-saxons had toes that went straight across
> while the celts had a long big toe and the rest of the toes tapered more
> sharply from there.

My first four toes (including the big one) are all straight across, and then
my little one is where it would be if they all were tapered...and I have no
Anglo-Saxon *or* Celtic blood in me!  I come from a long line of Eastern
European Jews!

How would this mess up the study?

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's she got on her head?
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:26:42 -0600
Status: RO

On the page for head gear, it said that the young ladies
wore ribbon wrapped around their heads...

"They maydes weare on the forepart of their head about
  foure yards of coloured ribbon smoothly layd, and theyre
  owne hayre playted behind."

I would guess the dots are "artistic license", when
the artist painted something was needed to "dress it up".
*g*

Heck I don't know, why do I take up bandwith on stuff like
this? *L*

Katie


Angela Kovatch wrote:

> I am making good enough progress on my take on the
> Shinrone Gown (late 16th century Irish) that I think I
> might be able to wear it within the next couple of
> weeks.  So now I am considering what to do with my
> hair.  I would like to copy the style of a woman
> pictured on this page:
> 
> http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/oneills/clothing.html
> 
> In the picture directly under the heading "Women" the
> one on the right (in the blue dress) has braids
> wrapping across the top of her head, with some sort of
> circlet on top.  What is that, exactly?  Is it metal? 
> Leather?  Braided trim?  Something else entirely? 
> What are the little white dots made of?
> 
> (For those of you who have Dunlevy's book "Dress in
> Ireland" there's a nice full-page color print of this
> picture in there.)
> 
> Incidentally, when I was looking for a nice on-line
> copy of this picture, I ran across this page:
> 
> http://jan.ucc.nau.edu/~wew/celt-clothing/
> 
> which has the same picture, in a grainy,
> black-and-white version, but it does not identify the
> picture.  What is this?  Is this the original, that
> someone has cleaned up and colored in to result in the
> first one, or is this a poor-quality copy of the
> original color picture?  Or is one a redrawing of the
> other?
> 
> So many questions....  Thanks as usual in advance for
> all your helpful insights.
> 
> -Angela
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jan 28 15:14:50 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Foot shape study
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:49:57 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Um, well, my third toe is longer than either the big toe or the second
one... tell me that isn't a bit odd!

-- Mara


On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, Katie wrote:

> Okay so who had toes like this...
> Second toe longer then big toe..
> (take her sock off and puts her foot on the floor, then
> notices the large gap between her big toe and second toe.
> "Chimp" pops in her head....puts her sock back on and
> shuts up)

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 19:44:40 +0000
Status: RO

Cor!  So ballet dancers have to be primarily anglo-saxon, because you 
need toes roughly the same length to do pointe work successfully.  But 
... my mother is Scottish, and my father is from Yorkshire, and my feet 
are definitely Celtic style, but they're inherited from my father...?

Probably not a very useful method for divining the race of your 
ancestors, then :-)

Jean


aleed <aleed@dnaco.net> wrote
>
>From what I recall, the anglo-saxons had toes that went straight across
>while the celts had a long big toe and the rest of the toes tapered more
>sharply from there.
>
>Drea
>
> On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, Parsla Liepa wrote:
>
>>
>> I asked about this on another list that I'm that is full of people who make
>> shoes and tend to be interested in trivia such as this....
>>
>> No body remembers any details other than there was a television program a
>> while back (months? years? unknown)that said that at the time it was a
>> breakthrough discovery, because it was a -physical- method for archeologists
>> to differentiate if a grave was Saxon vs Celtic during certain time periods
>> where the two overlapped geographically. The original foot difference
>> discovery was made by a podiatrist turned amateur archeologist.  I believe,
>> but am not positive, that the
>> difference had to do with length to width ratio of the foot.
>>
>>
>> Parsla
>>
>> > >Gawd, what would that about those of us who have a sort of
>> > >generic-mongrel-Heinz57-british-isles type of ethnic background....?
>> > >Sue, WASP-ish far enough back to wear yellow and black stripes...;-P
>> >
>> >Beats the heck out of me, since I fall in that category, too :D  I think
>> >the study was done in England, in areas where the population base isn't so
>> >mixed as it is in the States.
>> >
>> >-- Mara
>> >
>>
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Join the worldâ€™s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
>> http://www.hotmail.com
>>
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>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Foot shape/toes
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:59:19 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:02 PM -0800 1/28/02, Angela Kovatch wrote:
>I recall from my Genetics class in high school that in
>terms of toe length, the allele ("version" of a gene)
>for second toe longer than big toe is dominant. (So if
>your mom gives you the allele for big toe longest, and
>your dad gives you the allele for second toe longest,
>you will grow up with second toe longest.)  So, as
>backgrounds mix, more and more people will assumedly
>be born with, what do you call them, toefingers.

I have the second toe longer than the big toe on one foot, and 
shorter on the other -- a triumph of nurture over nature, since it's 
the result of one of them being broken a time or two (but now I can't 
remember which was broken and whether it made the toe longer or 
shorter!).  Otherwise I'm one of those "cut straight across" types, 
and boy was I happy when the shoe industry decided that it was ok for 
women with my type of feet to wear girls' shoes.
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 05:22:14 +0800
Status: RO

Okay, in all fairness, we're talking about the people in my kingdom here (the picture page was for the SCA West Kingdom's 12th Night, which, unfortunately, I missed, but rest assured, had I gone, I would have worn appropriate headgear *laugh*).  BUT... I do have to agree 100% as this is one of my biggest peeves.  Headcovering is so rare to find at events, but what irks me more than even that, are women who insist upon wearing their 16th c. French Hoods like modern alice bands, with their bangs hanging out front.  Grrrr.  It just looks... tacky.  Another one is wearing crowns over hairsprayed hairdos... ::sigh::

Sarah Lorraine
who purposefully grew her bangs out and won't cut her hair because it's not "period".  I know, I'm a geek. ;)

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:42:06 -0500 (EST)
 
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown


> > Looks good, wonderful photograph. BUT....where are the headcoverings???
> > Everybody in the 14th c wore something on their head, especially the ladies.
> > Men had at least a coif or hood if it was colder and endless ways of draping
> > the latter about the head. I've often seen this in Americans; they don't
> > want to wear hats or veils because they don't in their own 'mundane' life as
> > well (except for baseball caps). Why is that?
> 
> I noticed that, too, Henk.  I looked through the whole picture gallery,
> and, for the most part, they look like -- modern people wearing Halloween
> costumes.  Modern hairstyles, modern makeup, modern underpinnings... it's
> like watching a '50s Hollywood costume drama and noticing the dated
> hairstyles :)
> 
> Maybe people get entrenched in a way of looking at themselves, and resist
> wearing headgear and leaving off / changing their makeup because it's so
> much part of them that they don't "see" the difference between their look
> and what you actually see in period artwork.
> 
> -- Mara
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

-- 


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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:59:06 -0600
Status: RO

I am confused wasn't head coverings mostly for married women,
and unmairred women were able to wear their hair down no covering
on their heads? I might be wrong but I think that is what
I have read.  Mundanely I am a married woman, but my persona is
unmarried.  Seeing as Society is not a rolplaying game my persona
will forever more be single, so I should be able to wear my hair
down and my head uncovered. Correct?

Sarah Goodman wrote:

> Okay, in all fairness, we're talking about the people in my kingdom here (the picture page was for the SCA West Kingdom's 12th Night, which, unfortunately, I missed, but rest assured, had I gone, I would have worn appropriate headgear *laugh*).  BUT... I do have to agree 100% as this is one of my biggest peeves.  Headcovering is so rare to find at events, but what irks me more than even that, are women who insist upon wearing their 16th c. French Hoods like modern alice bands, with their bangs hanging out front.  Grrrr.  It just looks... tacky.  Another one is wearing crowns over hairsprayed hairdos... ::sigh::
> 
> Sarah Lorraine
> who purposefully grew her bangs out and won't cut her hair because it's not "period".  I know, I'm a geek. ;)
> 


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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:57:37 -0800
Status: RO

> I am confused wasn't head coverings mostly for married women,
> and unmairred women were able to wear their hair down no covering
> on their heads? I might be wrong but I think that is what
> I have read.  Mundanely I am a married woman, but my persona is
> unmarried.  Seeing as Society is not a rolplaying game my persona
> will forever more be single, so I should be able to wear my hair
> down and my head uncovered. Correct?

That depends on the time and place.  In this case, there are many examples
showing men and women wearing some kind of head covering.  there are also
many examples showing bare heads.  Take a look through Fashion in the Age of
the Black Prince.  You should be able to find examples of both just in the
40 years or so the book covers.

Dan


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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 18:13:57 -0500
Status: RO


>
>My first four toes (including the big one) are all straight across, and 
>then
>my little one is where it would be if they all were tapered...and I have no
>Anglo-Saxon *or* Celtic blood in me!  I come from a long line of Eastern
>European Jews!
>
>How would this mess up the study?
>
>
I'm the same way -- middle toes all the same length, and all roughly the 
same length as the big toe.  Pinky toe is tiny, with a nail barely big 
enough to bother putting polish on.  And I'm a thoroughbred Latvian, as best 
as we can tell.  (Great grandfather may have been Lithuanian, but we're not 
sure. Don't know any surnames that far back)

Parsla

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Foot shape study
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 18:18:11 -0600
Status: RO

Me and my whole family. Care for a banana?

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie" <nejma@tds.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Foot shape study


> Okay so who had toes like this...
> Second toe longer then big toe..


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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone on the list do Janet Arnold-style grid patterns?
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:28:31 -0500
Status: RO

If this is something you do, please contact me off-list. I need a
professional for a job this year -- someone who can study some original
garments and "translate" them into gridded patterns for a book.

Thanks!
Jennie Chancey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone on the list do Janet Arnold-style grid patterns?
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 03:58:55 -0800
Status: RO

Hello

I saw your note on H-costume.  I have a back ground in both Drafting,
and a degree in costume design and pattern drafting.  I have on a number
of occasions created patterns using original garments and the made a
gridded pattern.  Also seeing I am staying home with my son, I have the
time to spend on the work.

Please feel free to call me at 916-492-2731.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl

Jennie Chancey wrote:
> 
> If this is something you do, please contact me off-list. I need a
> professional for a job this year -- someone who can study some original
> garments and "translate" them into gridded patterns for a book.
> 
> Thanks!
> Jennie Chancey
> 
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
> http://www.sensibility.com
> winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:21:13 -0800
Status: RO


> I am confused wasn't head coverings mostly for married women,
> and unmairred women were able to wear their hair down no covering
> on their heads? I might be wrong but I think that is what
> I have read.  Mundanely I am a married woman, but my persona is
> unmarried.  Seeing as Society is not a rolplaying game my persona
> will forever more be single, so I should be able to wear my hair
> down and my head uncovered. Correct?

In most periods where hair was covered for marrieds and uncovered 
for unmarrieds, a time would come (based on chronologic age, not 
mental age or wishful thinking) when the unmarrieds would still 
start covering the head. If you were of an age (which varies 
considerably between times and places in medieval and early 
modern Europe) to be married but weren't, you would *still* wear a 
head covering. (It survived through many time periods to the point 
where in Victorian times they talk about "putting on caps".) It was 
even something carried on into the 20th Century in the form of 
wearing hats or some sort of head covering in church (especially in 
the Catholic church.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 21:08:49 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, Katie wrote:

> I am confused wasn't head coverings mostly for married women,
> and unmairred women were able to wear their hair down no covering
> on their heads? I might be wrong but I think that is what
> I have read.

That's an overgeneralization, unfortunately common in bad reference books.
It's fair to say that in much of the Middle Ages, and in many parts of
Europe, if hair could be shown acceptably at all, it would most likely be
on (1) virginal girls, (2) queens, and (3) brides (an extension of both
(1) and (2)). Hair shown in other than the accepted contexts might denote
wantonness, mental illness, or extreme distress (e.g. my house is on fire
and I am running into the street with my hair unbound).

However, there was no hard and fast rule that applies throughout the
medieval period and in all of Europe. Practice varied by place and time,
and the variations are many. For instance, there were some places/times in
which married women could have hair showing (but still were expected to
have some ornamentation on the head, or some way of restraining the hair).
There were some places/times in which unmarried women were still expected
to bind or cover the hair, but perhaps in a different manner than married
women. Hairstyle is probably the element of dress that is most variable by
region and year. You'll see many such variations just in the time
consistent with the fitted dress of the sort that prompted this thread. If
you want to document the hair display of your persona, you'd be best off
studying the art and other materials from your persona's specific place
and time, and making sure your hair choice matches your clothing choice.

Bear in mind also that "unmarried women" is an awfully broad phrase, and
not really applicable in a medieval context the same way it is today, when
women's roles, lifespan, and expectations of marriage/childbearing are
very different. In many medieval time/place contexts, age was as much a
factor as marital status; women were expected to cover the hair after a
certain age whether they were married or not. Many women who remained
unmarried entered religious orders -- and there's a reason we say "took
the veil" to describe that action. Women who chose to remain single
(eventually called spinsters in English, because so many unmarried women
were able to support themselves by fiber production) might assume hair
coverings to signify their independent economic status (as opposed to a
virgin still living under her father's support, waiting to be married
off).

In such a context, it would be inappropriate to wear unbound/uncovered
hair with a costume style of a place/time in which such rules applied,
even if your persona is unmarried. It would be equivalent to a woman of 40
today wearing a Britney Spears outfit. Even if she has the figure for it,
you would instantly recognize it as inappropriate or tacky.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 21:33:05 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

> I am confused wasn't head coverings mostly for married women,
> and unmairred women were able to wear their hair down no covering
> on their heads? I might be wrong but I think that is what
> I have read.  Mundanely I am a married woman, but my persona is
> unmarried.  Seeing as Society is not a rolplaying game my persona
> will forever more be single, so I should be able to wear my hair
> down and my head uncovered. Correct?

Yes and no.  Headgear wasn't just something to distinguish the married from
the unmarried, it was part of the whole fashionable ensemble, and for the
lower classes, also served a functional purpose of keeping the head cool,
absorbing sweat, keeping the hair out of the eyes, etc.

Headgear makes the outfit, and I am a firm believer that hats are fun.
(There are periods where less headgear is common, but the hair is usually
dressed in those periods).

Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 21:50:15 -0500
Status: RO

Hmmm, 4 children....homeschooling.....sewing for 6.....local
Herald.....scout and cub scout mom....yup!  I qualify for a bare head under
mental illness! ;-}
Moira
2)). Hair shown in other than the accepted contexts might denote
> wantonness, mental illness, or extreme distress (e.g. my house is on fire
> and I am running into the street with my hair unbound).


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From: carol <ladynoire1013@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone on the list do Janet Arnold-style grid patterns?
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 19:42:06 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Hello Stephen
Any advice on how to modify those JA patterns for a
larger size ?
thanks
Carol

=====
....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....

"The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."

"The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Foot shape study
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 16:07:17 -0500
Status: RO

Well, my mom did... *G* (Um, that would be Celt or Scandinavian...) 
Prehensile toe, too! Which can be quite handy.

I have 4 toes all the same length, then this poor little smidge of a 
little toe. Buying shoes is fun...


Katie wrote:

> Okay so who had toes like this...
> Second toe longer then big toe..
> (take her sock off and puts her foot on the floor, then
> notices the large gap between her big toe and second toe.
> "Chimp" pops in her head....puts her sock back on and
> shuts up)
>
>



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 21:19:49 -0800
Status: RO


> In such a context, it would be inappropriate to wear unbound/uncovered
> hair with a costume style of a place/time in which such rules applied,
> even if your persona is unmarried. It would be equivalent to a woman of 40
> today wearing a Britney Spears outfit. Even if she has the figure for it,
> you would instantly recognize it as inappropriate or tacky.

What! You mean I can't wear those outfits?! 

Are you saying I'd look like "mutton dressed up as lamb"?

;)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone on the list do Janet Arnold-style grid patterns?
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:35:09 -0000
Status: RO

Try getting CPM drafting software you can trace them in & adjust to any size

Mel

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From: "Linda Walton" <linda@sapiens.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Foot shape/toes
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:45:09 -0000
Status: RO

The programme which mentioned this study was an episode of "Time Team",
shown in the U.K. at least a couple of years ago I think.  It shows the work
of professional archaeologists.

The lady concerned, (I wish I could remember her name), had been a
chiropodist, I think, and had pointed out a major difference between Norman
and Anglo-Saxon feet.  This concerned the structure under the instep, where
it was made narrower and higher or broader and flatter by a tendon, (or
something), which seemed to pass diagonally across the tarsal bones.  The
two different sorts could be detected in the bones found in burials, as well
as in illustrations of the time.  The Normans have longer, pointed feet and
seem to stand 'higher', the English are more 'down to earth'.  Celtic feet
were not mentioned at all.

I have a distant memory of reading a report from an archaeological magazine,
but regret I can't be of any further help in finding it.

Linda Walton.
High Wycombe,
Buckinghamshire, U.K.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Foot shape study
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:58:47 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- chimericalgirl@attbi.com wrote: > 
>Perhaps its a mutt thing?
> 

Not necessarily, this foot arrangement runs in my family and we are Irish, English and Scottish,
although not much of the English once you back 100 years or so.  However my partner who's genetic
origins are Orkadian Viking does not.  Make of that what you will.

Rachel UK.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period sewing baskets - contents?
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 23:55:48 -0800
Status: RO

Thanx for the tip.  In 1883, in Montana, my grandmother was 3 years old, 
and my grandfather was still a cowboy.  I'll HAVE to catch this one.

>There is simular show airing April 29, 2002, called "The
>Frontier House" set in 1883 Montana.
>
>http://www.pbs.org/wnet/frontierhouse/
>
>Katie
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:00:26 +1030
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P><BR><BR></P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>I agree<BR></P></DIV>
<P>"Headcovering is so rare to find at events, but what irks me more than even that,<BR>are women who insist upon wearing their 16th c. French Hoods like modern alice<BR>bands, with their bangs hanging out front.&nbsp; Grrrr.&nbsp; It just looks... tacky. <BR>Another one is wearing crowns over hairsprayed hairdos... ::sigh::"</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>But what i would realy like to know is how to construct a proper french hood i haven't been able to find any information on this topic, anywhere.</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>P.S. where&nbsp;did this US&nbsp; term "bangs" come from? I believe what you are refering to is kown as a fringe here in Australia. <BR><BR>"Sarah Lorraine who purposefully grew her bangs out and won't cut her hair because it's not<BR>"period".&nbsp; I know, I'm a geek. ;)"<BR><BR>Rebecca Anderson</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>aka</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>Lady Adele Anders</P>
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag2_etl_EN.asp'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:39:10 -0500
Status: RO

>
>
> P.S. where did this US  term "bangs" come from? I believe what you are
> refering to is kown as a fringe here in Australia.
>
> Rebecca Anderson
>
> aka
>
> Lady Adele Anders
>
As a mundane hairdresser in the US, I can't tell you where the term
bangs came from, but all our training books and in any industry shows,
magazine, seminars, ect, professionals use the term "fringe".

Andrea

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 29 07:16:33 2002
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 04:52:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

After a disastrous (& final) attempt to trim my bangs
myself, the next day a colleague from Ireland kept
telling me "Your fringes are all wonky."  It took me
most of the morning to realize she was pointing out
that my bangs were crooked!

and no, I have _no_ idea why we call them bangs. 
Penny, are you there????

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

--- Andrea Gideon <andrea@gideonfamily.org> wrote:
> >
> >
> > P.S. where did this US  term "bangs" come from? I
> believe what you are
> > refering to is kown as a fringe here in Australia.
> >
> > Rebecca Anderson
> >
> > aka
> >
> > Lady Adele Anders
> >
> As a mundane hairdresser in the US, I can't tell you
> where the term
> bangs came from, but all our training books and in
> any industry shows,
> magazine, seminars, ect, professionals use the term
> "fringe".
> 
> Andrea
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 14:36:30 +0100
Status: RO

--=====================_105661171==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

At 13:39 29.01.2002 , you wrote:
> >
> >
> > P.S. where did this US  term "bangs" come from? I believe what you are
> > refering to is kown as a fringe here in Australia.

merriam-webster online is a valuable tool. :)
http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary

Main Entry:     bang
Function:       noun
Etymology:      probably short for bangtail (short tail)
Date:   1878
: a fringe of banged hair -- usually used in plural

ciao,
alexa


Yours, etc, Elisabeth Amalie Gr=E4fin von Haimhausen
also known outside the 18th century  as
His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)
http://www.marquise.de                  costume@gmx.li
--=====================_105661171==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<font size=3D3>At 13:39 29.01.2002 , you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite cite>&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; P.S. where did this US&nbsp; term &quot;bangs&quot; come from? I
believe what you are<br>
&gt; refering to is kown as a fringe here in
Australia.</blockquote><br>
merriam-webster online is a valuable tool. :)<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary</a><br>
<br>
Main Entry:<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>bang<br>
Function:<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>noun<br>
Etymology:<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>probably
short for bangtail (short tail)<br>
Date:<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>1878<br>
: a fringe of banged hair -- usually used in plural<br>
<br>
ciao,<br>
alexa</font><br>
<br>
<br>
<div>Yours, etc, Elisabeth Amalie Gr=E4fin von Haimhausen </div>
<div>also known outside the 18th century&nbsp; as </div>
<div>His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)</div>
<a href=3D"http://www.marquise.de/" EUDORA=3DAUTOURL>http://www.marquise.de<=
/a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
costume@gmx.li
</html>

--=====================_105661171==_.ALT--

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:50:42 +0000
Status: RO

This isn't specifically Irish - "wonky" is a British Isles colloquialism for "faulty" or "lopsided",  and, as others have pointed out, "fringe" (in the singular) is the normal term here and in Australia.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com 01/29/02 12:52pm >>>
After a disastrous (& final) attempt to trim my bangs
myself, the next day a colleague from Ireland kept
telling me "Your fringes are all wonky."  It took me
most of the morning to realize she was pointing out
that my bangs were crooked!

and no, I have _no_ idea why we call them bangs. 
Penny, are you there????

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

--- Andrea Gideon <andrea@gideonfamily.org> wrote:
> >
> >
> > P.S. where did this US  term "bangs" come from? I
> believe what you are
> > refering to is kown as a fringe here in Australia.
> >
> > Rebecca Anderson
> >
> > aka
> >
> > Lady Adele Anders
> >
> As a mundane hairdresser in the US, I can't tell you
> where the term
> bangs came from, but all our training books and in
> any industry shows,
> magazine, seminars, ect, professionals use the term
> "fringe".
> 
> Andrea
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone on the list do Janet Arnold-style grid patterns?
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:23:27 EST
Status: RO

 
> Hello Stephen
> Any advice on how to modify those JA patterns for a
> larger size ?
> thanks
> Carol

If you put them on overheads and then blow them up to the right width, it works pretty well. (Tape paper to wall, trace projection at right width). I had some finagling to do with the height, but otherwise, the pattern was fine.
         --Kathy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:32:42 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Mon, 28 Jan 2002 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> > even if your persona is unmarried. It would be equivalent to a woman of 40
> > today wearing a Britney Spears outfit. Even if she has the figure for it,
> > you would instantly recognize it as inappropriate or tacky.

There's a woman in the HOG (Harley Owner's Group) chapter my hubby and I
used to belong to.  She was a biker chick back in the late '60s -- and
hasn't changed her look since, I swear.  Tight pants, cropped tops, spike
heels, and skin that's tanned so much that it looks like a leather saddle.
Well, Amy's a character, and nobody's gonna tell her that she looks, well,
like a 60-year-old trying to be 15 again.  <grin>  Hell, she can still
kick-start her panhead...

-- Mara

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:26:45 -0700
Status: RO

Try some of the links on this site....<g>
--Sue
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/general.html

Rebecca Anderson wrote:
> 
> But what i would realy like to know is how to construct a proper
> french hood i haven't been able to find any information on this topic,
> anywhere.
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:35:46 -0800
Status: RO

> I have 4 toes all the same length, then this poor little smidge of a
> little toe. Buying shoes is fun...
>
Buying shoes is the bane of my existence!  Have you found any types that
actually fit feet like ours?

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:26:18 -0800 (PST)
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--- Rebecca Anderson <lady_adele@hotmail.com> wrote:
but what irks me more than even that,<BR>are women who
insist upon wearing their 16th c. French Hoods like
modern alice<BR>bands, with their bangs hanging out
front.&nbsp; Grrrr.&nbsp; It just looks... tacky.
<BR>Another one is wearing crowns over hairsprayed
hairdos... ::sigh

May I add another "early fashion don't" -- an
otherwise impeccably period look ruined (in my
opinion) with High-Goth-Club-Rat jewelry.

Iohanna the Harper
(who is much kind after her decidedly non-period
coffee)
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:02:03 -0800
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> > I have 4 toes all the same length, then this poor little smidge of a
> > little toe. Buying shoes is fun...
> >
> Buying shoes is the bane of my existence!  Have you found any types that
> actually fit feet like ours?

Tudor era shoes?

Every once in a while I come across a pair of shoes (in the stores, 
not hand made) which are square and wide across the front. They 
look for all the world like early Tudor shoes.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: [h-cost] Hosen problems
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 09:34:59 -0500
Status: RO

For the Laurelling of Thomas Longshanks, Mistress Aelfwyn (his lady) and I
recreated one of the plaid parti-colored tunics/cotehardies from Cataluna.
I did the tunic, and I'll try to get a picture in the files soon.  Aelfwyn
made the hose, the shirt, and now, the hood.  And Master Finnr did the
shoes, belt and pouch.

Now the refining has started, and she has  some questions as to the
placement of the ties on the underbreeches, and some problems with stress
points.  I'm passing this on to you, in the hopes that those of you who are
experienced with hosen can help.

Jessamyn 

............................................................................
.....

If someone has resources I don't have, about hose or underbreeches, I'd sure
appreciate knowing about/getting them, so by all means ask the lists please.

So far, I know that the Bocksten hose are made just like Tom's, except that
I put a separate sole on. I also know that later (1430, from the Catherine
of Cleves Hours) the hose could be cut with the point at the side of the
hip, rather than the front. However, St. Vincent's breeches (contemporary
Catalan) have openings at the waistband in the front, and I'm therefore
assuming that (a) St. Vincent wore hose when he wasn't busy being martyred
and (b) they were cut like the Bocksten and Bremen hose, with a point at the
top center front, and were tied to the waistband at the front of the
underbreeches.

I made a trial pair of underbreeches yesterday (while trying to watch the
Eagles-Rams game) and have at least come up with something to test for
stress points.

Cynara


------ End of Forwarded Message

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 29 11:41:42 2002
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From: Patris MEALLIER <argad@wanadoo.fr>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [lumieres] translators sought for 18th/19th cosmetics and
 17th-19thhairdos
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:41:14 +0100
Status: RO

Well if I can give some help with french translations
I'll be happy to
... although I do'nt know much about tailoring
except my own experiences...

Patrice
http://pro.wanadoo.fr/huchehault



Amalie a *crit :

> dear list (s),
>
> sorry for the cross-posting, but i really need some help here to generate
> some benefit for all of us.
>
> i have created a number of webpages where i've used german sources, pages
> that i think would be of interest to us all. i'm feeling out of my depth
> with many of the special terms used, so i'm hoping that some of you out
> there can help me translating the stuff into english. other pages need
> translating from french to english. i really hope that some of you take up
> the challenge.
>
> what i ned help with is
> - 17th to 19th century hairdos and how they're made up (german,
> hairdresser's language)
> - 18th and early 19th century cosmetics (german, chemist's language)
> - garsault's "l'art de la lingere" and "l'art du tailleur" (french,
> tailor's language)
>
> if you volunteer to help, you will of course receive credits... and some
> other recompense, but i don't exactly know what that might be yet. state
> your wishes, and we'll see what can be done.
>
> salut,
> alexa
>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:57:01 -0500
Status: RO




Iohanna the Harper wrote:

> May I add another "early fashion don't" -- an
> otherwise impeccably period look ruined (in my
> opinion) with High-Goth-Club-Rat jewelry.

Could you describe this?  I am so out of the loop on things.

Diana
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 29 11:44:21 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Spanish Loose Gown pattern favor
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:18:43 -0700
Status: RO


I have a copy of the Mantua-Maker's Spanish Loose Gown pattern on its
way to me, but I was hoping to get a head start with the assistance of
someone who already has a copy of it:

 - what are the measurements given for sizes 18-20-22?
 - what are the yardage requirements for each of thse sizes?
 - what are the recommended fabrics for the garment?

If I can find this out, I can wallow through my fabric stash and see
what I have that's useable, or go out and get something suitable,
before the pattern arrives.

Thanks!
					...eliz

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:24:59 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I work in the admissions office of a college.  This
morning we received a long rambling email from a woman
in Kansas.  She had a very "American-sounding" name,
so English is almost certainly her native language. 
[No ESL excuses for her!] She concluded her email
with: "I want you to know that I am prepared to
rigorously pursue my Bachelorette of Arts degree."

We're just having a marvelous time with this.  My
colleague Siobhan has suggested a contest to develop
the curriculum for the Bachelorette of Arts.  Since I
really work with graduate admission, I get to work on
the "follow-up" degree:  Mistress of Arts.  Even the
janitor got in the act:  he contributed the idea that
the diploma for Bachelorette of Arts must be printed
on pink paper.

ok...I'll go quietly now...

Iohanna the Harper (to some of you)
Joan Hall (to some of you)
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:34:25 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Dhannti <dychap@inetone.net> wrote:
High-Goth-Club-Rat jewelry.
> 
> Could you describe this?  I am so out of the loop on
> things.

go to www.blackrose.co.uk/

and browse the jewelry section.  Fun stuff.  I myself
have (to the horror of my husband & children)a heavy
brushed-steel-chainmail-and-black-leather handpiece. 
However, I wear it with jeans and a sweater, not my
12th C. garb!!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:58:20 -0600
Status: RO

Okay so basicly since I am an old woman ;) I should
have my head covered anyway. *L* Okay I can live with
that, it gives me an excuse to go to the fabric store.
*L*

"Honey, going to the fabric store need veil material."
Vaaarrrooommm!!!

Katie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Dan,

You wrote:
      The hoods and so on are still in parts on my living room floor.  =
They will
      eventually be finished.

  Ah, that explains it...

      Americans in general don't tend to wear hats, so they tend to =
forget that
      detail when doing historical costumes, particularly since most of =
the books
      that are readily available here gloss over the subject.

  Is that so? What books are these?

      The pattern is what was easily available on very short notice that =
gave
      something of the right feel.  Getting fabric with a truly medieval =
pattern
      is almost impossible here, but you can get close with some of the =
upholstery
      fabrics that are available, if you're careful.  I started her =
dress after
      the 1st of December (drafting the pattern.)  I moved in the middle =
of the
      month.  So there wasn't much time to hunt for fabric.  However, =
patterned
      fabrics of many kinds seem to have been used during the 14th =
century, at
      least in England and France.  The deBlois pourpoint is one good =
example, but
      there are several others.  There are a few good pictures and/or =
diagrams in
      the Museum of London, Textiles and Clothing book (which has been =
republished
      by Boydell and Brewer.)

  The Blois pourpoint is a patterned silk-damask coat (with a linen =
lining), as are most other saved clothing (f.i. queen Margaret's cotte). =
In the MOL books the only patterns in woollen cloth are stripes, checks =
and mingled colours and woven-in heraldry in wall hangings, which are =
different kettle of fish.

  I think the upholstery cloths are the culprit here: most don't have =
medieval patterns and IMO they feel wrong (although this wasn't visible =
in the picture). If you don't mind me saying so: I would go for =
unpatterned woollen cloth every time. I realize it's hard to come by in =
the States, but I'm sure many members of this list could point you to =
sources, where you can get these cloths relatively cheap and in many =
wonderful colours. Just a tip.

  Regards,


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl



------=_NextPart_000_01A0_01C1A83B.F838E6A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Dan,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The hoods and so on are still in parts on my =
living
  room floor.&nbsp; They will<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; eventually be
finished.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Ah, that explains it...</DIV>
  <DIV><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Americans in general don't tend to wear =
hats, so
  they tend to forget that<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; detail when doing =
historical
  costumes, particularly since most of the books<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
that are
  readily available here gloss over the subject.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Is that so? What books are these?<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The =
pattern
  is what was easily available on very short notice that
  gave<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; something of the right feel.&nbsp; Getting =
fabric
  with a truly medieval pattern<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; is almost =
impossible here,
  but you can get close with some of the =
upholstery<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
  fabrics that are available, if you're careful.&nbsp; I started her =
dress
  after<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; the 1st of December (drafting the =
pattern.)&nbsp;
  I moved in the middle of the<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; month.&nbsp; So =
there
  wasn't much time to hunt for fabric.&nbsp; However,
  patterned<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; fabrics of many kinds seem to have =
been used
  during the 14th century, at<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; least in England and =

  France.&nbsp; The deBlois pourpoint is one good example,
  but<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; there are several others.&nbsp; There are a =
few good
  pictures and/or diagrams in<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; the Museum of =
London,
  Textiles and Clothing book (which has been =
republished<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
  by Boydell and Brewer.)<BR><BR>The Blois pourpoint is a patterned =
silk-damask
  coat (with a linen lining), as are most other saved clothing (f.i. =
queen
  Margaret's cotte). In the MOL books the only patterns in woollen cloth =
are
  stripes, checks and mingled colours and woven-in heraldry in wall =
hangings,
  which are different kettle of fish.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I think the upholstery cloths are the culprit here: most don't =
have
  medieval patterns and IMO they feel wrong (although this wasn't =
visible in the
  picture). If you don't mind me saying so: I would go for unpatterned =
woollen
  cloth every time. I realize it's hard to come by in the States, but =
I'm sure
  many members of this list could point you to sources, where you can =
get these
  cloths relatively cheap and in many wonderful colours. Just a =
tip.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Regards,</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A><BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQ=
UOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:58:40 -0800
Status: RO

<
Hi Dan,

You wrote:
      The hoods and so on are still in parts on my living room floor.  They
will
      eventually be finished.

  Ah, that explains it...
>

They'll eventually get done, but my lady has asked that I not finish them
without her help since she wants to learn how to assemble them.

<
      Americans in general don't tend to wear hats, so they tend to forget
that
      detail when doing historical costumes, particularly since most of the
books
      that are readily available here gloss over the subject.

  Is that so? What books are these?
>

The very few commonly available.  I work at a University and have a btter
collection of costuming books (for the 13-15th centuries) than the library
on campus.

<
  The Blois pourpoint is a patterned silk-damask coat (with a linen lining),
as are most other saved clothing (f.i. queen Margaret's cotte). In the MOL
books the only patterns in woollen cloth are stripes, checks and mingled
colours and woven-in heraldry in wall hangings, which are different kettle
of fish.
>

I have photos of the pourpoint.  If I could get fabric to match I'd be a
happy person.  :)

<
  I think the upholstery cloths are the culprit here: most don't have
medieval patterns and IMO they feel wrong (although this wasn't visible in
the picture). If you don't mind me saying so: I would go for unpatterned
woollen cloth every time. I realize it's hard to come by in the States, but
I'm sure many members of this list could point you to sources, where you can
get these cloths relatively cheap and in many wonderful colours. Just a tip.
>

If I could wear wool, that might be an option, but I can't so it's not.  :(

Dan

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Subject: re: [h-cost] Off-topic for both lists!  Funny moment at the office
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 19:00:59 -0000
Status: RO

As a native of Kansas, I just have to mention that this is not "normal" for us...  But it is very disappointing to know that people have such a problem with language. :(

Margretta de Vries



> Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> I work in the admissions office of a college.  This
> morning we received a long rambling email from a woman
> in Kansas.  She had a very "American-sounding" name,
> so English is almost certainly her native language. 
> [No ESL excuses for her!] She concluded her email
> with: "I want you to know that I am prepared to
> rigorously pursue my Bachelorette of Arts degree."
> 
> We're just having a marvelous time with this.  My
> colleague Siobhan has suggested a contest to develop
> the curriculum for the Bachelorette of Arts.  Since I
> really work with graduate admission, I get to work on
> the "follow-up" degree:  Mistress of Arts.  Even the
> janitor got in the act:  he contributed the idea that
> the diploma for Bachelorette of Arts must be printed
> on pink paper.
> 
> ok...I'll go quietly now...
> 
> Iohanna the Harper (to some of you)
> Joan Hall (to some of you)
> "If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
> "Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-topic for both lists!  Funny moment at the office
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 14:11:19 EST
Status: RO

Been there done that. Spent 2 years working in the credit department at 
Manufacturers Hanover Trust in Jericho NY. An excuse for non-payment siad 
something like-"I order a Pink Gorilla to come over to juggle and sing and 
dance, it never showed up." The general consensus was that in order to get a 
Pink Gorilla to sing and dance at your party-you must ask rather than order 
them to do so. Apparantly they don't respond to being bossed around very 
well. Giggle.
Lady G
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:50:14 -0600
Status: RO

Joan Garner wrote:

> and no, I have _no_ idea why we call them bangs.
> Penny, are you there????

The OED was no further help.  Same 1878 date, although it seems calling
it "bang*s*" is fairly recent.

--Charlene

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:50:43 -0600
Status: RO

Kate M Bunting wrote:

> This isn't specifically Irish - "wonky" is a British Isles colloquialism for "faulty" or "lopsided",  and, as others have pointed out, "fringe" (in the singular) is the normal term here and in Australia.

"Wonky" is also used in the US.

--Charlene

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:56:53 +0100
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Dan,

You wrote:
      That depends on the time and place.  In this case, there are many =
examples
      showing men and women wearing some kind of head covering.  there =
are also
      many examples showing bare heads.  Take a look through Fashion in =
the Age of
      the Black Prince.  You should be able to find examples of both =
just in the
      40 years or so the book covers.

  Of course you're right there, BUT the sources she shows are almost =
only portraying aristocracy, courtiers and rich merchants, and it had =
become fashionable to 'do' bare heads, the weather permitting, in these =
circles. The Romance of Alexandre (ca 1338) even shows the latest =
fashion for young aristocratic women: NO VEILS and DECOLLETEE'S! And did =
they come in for a battering by the clergy!!! Everybody with even a =
smidgeon of decorum thoufgt this at least scandalous en at worst the =
sounding the trumps at the end of the world.

  So, basically, everybody who was not 'fashionable' (and remember it =
was only useful to be fashionable at court, for which you had to be rich =
and influential, and when you were young enough to get away with wearing =
tight clothes), wore headcoverings. Even young girls of a marriagable =
age, in some noble circles already from 12 years onwards. Besides =
headcoverings being cool, sweat-absorbers and keeping hair out of the =
eyes, they are very useful to keep out draughts (all medieval houses and =
castles were draughty) and it keeps your hair form getting greasy or =
dirty too fast by the infuence of fires, smoke and soot (practical =
experience), and that goes for the 'well-offs' as well. Men had the same =
problem, together with the soiling effects of some kinds of work, like =
smithing, tanning, fulling, dyeing, brick- and pottery making, etc. Only =
outside in summer and with the sun shining it was OK to be bareheaded, =
but workers in the field at haying or harvest time wore coifs or =
strawhats against sunstroke.

  What strikes me the most, however, after having seen the whole line-up =
of the West-Kingdom's 12th Night revels, is that all you people look so =
'terribly' <g> American. I honestly don't know if it's the faces, the =
hair or what, but I could not ever confuse you guys with anybody else =
but US citizens. Ant ideas why this is, List?

  In casu 'bangs' or 'frills': wear a headband to turn the bangs back =
(seriously! don't be afraid it will stay back there, it'll take only an =
hour or less afterwards for the hair to find the usual shape again) and =
you'll have the proper bare forehead the medieval people loved so much =
in women. It just is so very un-medieval to have bangs coming out from =
under female headwear. Men, however, can comb their hair forwards and/or =
over the ears for most periods. Desist the operatic beard (1950's and =
later Hollywood hairdressers type) and the too clean cut moustache and =
goatee, be either clean shaven or have a real, short cut, beard with all =
the hair growing where it belongs (depending on the face). Stubble is =
all right too. For second half 14th c: drooping but not too thick =
moustaches are OK for knights and nobility, and for older people of the =
same status forked beards are fashionable in the same period.

  Just some free advice for getting even more 'period' from you friendly =
medieval consultant...


  Henk


  (I know it's SCA policy, but these white knight's belts together with =
a proper swordbelt are just too much. Have the swordbelt white, if you =
must, or leave off the white one because it's definetely not a medieval =
custom that you could know a knight by the colour of his belt, and don't =
wear ermine if you're not royalty, and all female crowns before ca 1350 =
were worn over veils, and a lot of the time afterwards as well, except =
on the crowning occasion when the (always long) hair was worn loose)

  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

------=_NextPart_000_00CD_01C1A907.7AC23E20
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Dan,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; That depends on the time and place.&nbsp; In =
this
  case, there are many examples<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; showing men and =
women
  wearing some kind of head covering.&nbsp; there are =
also<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
  many examples showing bare heads.&nbsp; Take a look through Fashion in =
the Age
  of<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; the Black Prince.&nbsp; You should be able to =
find
  examples of both just in the<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 40 years or so the =
book
  covers.<BR><BR>Of course you're right there, BUT the sources she shows =
are
  almost only portraying aristocracy, courtiers and rich merchants, and =
it had
  become fashionable to 'do' bare heads, the weather permitting, in =
these
  circles. The Romance of Alexandre (ca 1338) even shows the latest =
fashion for
  young aristocratic women: NO VEILS and DECOLLETEE'S! And did they come =
in for
  a battering by the clergy!!! Everybody with even a smidgeon of decorum =
thoufgt
  this at least scandalous en at worst the sounding the trumps&nbsp;at =
the end
  of the world.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>So, basically, everybody who was not 'fashionable' (and remember =
it was
  only useful to be fashionable at court, for which you had to be rich =
and
  influential, and when you were young enough to get away with wearing =
tight
  clothes), wore headcoverings. Even young girls of a marriagable age, =
in some
  noble circles already from 12 years onwards. Besides headcoverings =
being cool,
  sweat-absorbers and keeping hair out of the eyes, they are very useful =

  to&nbsp;keep out draughts (all medieval houses and castles were =
draughty) and
  it keeps your hair form getting greasy or dirty too fast by the =
infuence of
  fires, smoke and soot (practical experience), and that goes for the
  'well-offs' as well. Men had the same problem, together with the =
soiling
  effects of some kinds of work, like smithing, tanning, fulling, =
dyeing, brick-
  and pottery making, etc. Only outside in summer and with the sun =
shining it
  was OK to be bareheaded, but workers in the field at haying or harvest =
time
  wore coifs or strawhats against sunstroke.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>What strikes me the most, however, after having seen the whole =
line-up of
  the West-Kingdom's 12th Night revels, is that all you people look so
  'terribly' &lt;g&gt; American. I honestly don't know if it's the =
faces, the
  hair or what, but I could not ever confuse you guys with anybody else =
but US
  citizens. Ant ideas why this is, List?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>In casu 'bangs' or 'frills': wear a headband to turn the bangs =
back
  (seriously! don't be afraid it will&nbsp;stay back there, it'll take =
only an
  hour or&nbsp;less afterwards for the hair to find the usual shape =
again) and
  you'll have the proper bare forehead the medieval people loved so much =
in
  women. It just is so very un-medieval to have bangs coming out from =
under
  female headwear. Men, however, can comb their hair forwards and/or =
over the
  ears for most periods. Desist the operatic beard (1950's and later =
Hollywood
  hairdressers type) and the too clean cut moustache and goatee, be =
either clean
  shaven or have a real, short cut, beard with all the hair growing =
where it
  belongs (depending on the face). Stubble is all right too. For second =
half
  14th c: drooping but not too thick moustaches are OK for knights and =
nobility,
  and for older people of the same status forked beards are fashionable =
in the
  same period.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Just some free advice for getting even more 'period' from you =
friendly
  medieval consultant...</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>(I know it's SCA policy, but these white knight's belts together =
with a
  proper swordbelt are just too much. Have the swordbelt white, if you =
must, or
  leave off the white one because it's definetely not a medieval custom =
that you
  could know a knight by the colour of his belt, and don't wear ermine =
if you're
  not royalty, and all female crowns before ca 1350 were worn over =
veils, and a
  lot of the time afterwards as well, except on the crowning occasion =
when the
  (always long) hair was worn loose)</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></B=
ODY></HTML>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:32:59 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> May I add another "early fashion don't" -- an
> otherwise impeccably period look ruined (in my
> opinion) with High-Goth-Club-Rat jewelry.
>
>Could you describe this?  I am so out of the loop on things.

Probably Alchemy Gothic and similar manufacturer's cheezy jewelry.
See:
http://www.pendragongothic.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Pendants_322.html

Ahaha.  The "Celtic Ankh" is a new one.  And the Infernal Compass-Rose.
Think of drippy occult jewelry, except this stuff isn't even made of 
silver.  The original "look" ends up being similar to the original 
descriptions of Magrat Garlick in _Weird Sisters_.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:16:46 +0000
Status: RO

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote
>
>> I am confused wasn't head coverings mostly for married women,
>> and unmairred women were able to wear their hair down no covering
>> on their heads? I might be wrong but I think that is what
>> I have read.  Mundanely I am a married woman, but my persona is
>> unmarried.  Seeing as Society is not a rolplaying game my persona
>> will forever more be single, so I should be able to wear my hair
>> down and my head uncovered. Correct?
>
>In most periods where hair was covered for marrieds and uncovered
>for unmarrieds, a time would come (based on chronologic age, not
>mental age or wishful thinking) when the unmarrieds would still
>start covering the head. If you were of an age (which varies
>considerably between times and places in medieval and early
>modern Europe) to be married but weren't, you would *still* wear a
>head covering. (It survived through many time periods to the point
>where in Victorian times they talk about "putting on caps".) It was
>even something carried on into the 20th Century in the form of
>wearing hats or some sort of head covering in church (especially in
>the Catholic church.)
>
Or indeed just to putting the hair up - remember Chalet School girls 
growing their hair when they got to a certain age, so they could put it 
up the next year?  Not sure if it was 16 or 18.

Jean
>
>Kat
>
>Kat(June Russell)
>kat@grendal.rain.com
>Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!



-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:34:35
Status: RO

Ah! But finding the "right" shoe is wonderful!! I have triangular feet - 
wide at the ball and toes, narrow heel and then my arch is shorter and 
higher than most of the arch supports put in shoes. (sigh) I have a couple 
of pairs that have gone to the "shoe hospital" several times for fix-ups 
because they fit so well. I won't buy shoes without trying them on. No mail 
order for me. My dad had a pair of dress shoes that he took such care of 
that they lasted for 15 years. (I got my feet and hands from him)

Mary/Katerine
(who's parents were both in the shoe industry, and so grew up as a shoe 
hound...)

> > I have 4 toes all the same length, then this poor little smidge of a
> > little toe. Buying shoes is fun...
> >
>Buying shoes is the bane of my existence!  Have you found any types that
>actually fit feet like ours?
>
>Pam Dotson
>Everett, WA  USA
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:36:06 -0800
Status: RO

<
You wrote:
      That depends on the time and place.  In this case, there are many
examples
      showing men and women wearing some kind of head covering.  there are
also
      many examples showing bare heads.  Take a look through Fashion in the
Age of
      the Black Prince.  You should be able to find examples of both just in
the
      40 years or so the book covers.

  Of course you're right there, BUT the sources she shows are almost only
portraying aristocracy, courtiers and rich merchants, and it had become
fashionable to 'do' bare heads, the weather permitting, in these circles.
The Romance of Alexandre (ca 1338) even shows the latest fashion for young
aristocratic women: NO VEILS and DECOLLETEE'S! And did they come in for a
battering by the clergy!!! Everybody with even a smidgeon of decorum thoufgt
this at least scandalous en at worst the sounding the trumps at the end of
the world.
>

True.  Your answer just broadens the possibilities.  :)  For the time period
in question, if you are doing someone of the aristocracy, then a bare head
could well be perfectly acceptable and as accurate, if not more so, than a
head covering.  :)

For a different time, that could well be very different.  I always wear a
hat with my late 16th century doublet, for example.  (Even though I
absolutely hate the hat.  :) )

<
  What strikes me the most, however, after having seen the whole line-up of
the West-Kingdom's 12th Night revels, is that all you people look so
'terribly' <g> American. I honestly don't know if it's the faces, the hair
or what, but I could not ever confuse you guys with anybody else but US
citizens. Ant ideas why this is, List?
>

Maybe because we are all Americans?  :)  Other than that I can't tell you,
unless it's in the details that are hard to pick up out of books or that
don't seem as important in our culture but are in yours.

<
  In casu 'bangs' or 'frills': wear a headband to turn the bangs back
(seriously! don't be afraid it will stay back there, it'll take only an hour
or less afterwards for the hair to find the usual shape again) and you'll
have the proper bare forehead the medieval people loved so much in women. It
just is so very un-medieval to have bangs coming out from under female
headwear.
>

And really, it looks goofy, too.  But then I've never been a fan of bangs.
:)

<
 Men, however, can comb their hair forwards and/or over the ears for most
periods. Desist the operatic beard (1950's and later Hollywood hairdressers
type) and the too clean cut moustache and goatee, be either clean shaven or
have a real, short cut, beard with all the hair growing where it belongs
(depending on the face).
>

Now, on me, that would be a LOT of beard.  LOL

<
 Stubble is all right too. For second half 14th c: drooping but not too
thick moustaches are OK for knights and nobility, and for older people of
the same status forked beards are fashionable in the same period.
>

I have considered the drooping mustache, but my lady hates them...
Sometimes it's better to keep one's lady happy.  :)

<
  Just some free advice for getting even more 'period' from you friendly
medieval consultant...
>

And your advice is always appreciated.

<
  (I know it's SCA policy, but these white knight's belts together with a
proper swordbelt are just too much. Have the swordbelt white, if you must,
>

I have suggested this to more than one knight.  Unfortunately, very few seem
to want to actually make the sword belt themselves, so white is rather hard
to come by.

<
 or leave off the white one because it's definetely not a medieval custom
that you could know a knight by the colour of his belt,
>

This, too, is true.  but the tradition is so well entrenched I don't see it
changing any time soon.  In fact, lots of people keep trying to reserve yet
more colors of belt (and I won't get into a rant about that, here.)

<
 and don't wear ermine if you're not royalty,
>

The only person I know of who wears it is a Duke.  He seldom wears the
coronet, but regularly wears the ermine mantle.

<
 and all female crowns before ca 1350 were worn over veils, and a lot of the
time afterwards as well, except on the crowning occasion when the (always
long) hair was worn loose)
>

Interesting.  That's a detail I hadn't picked up on.

<
  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl
>

You've got some really interesting stuff there.  I need to find time to
actually go and look at all of it.  :)

Dan

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:43:14
Status: RO

IIRC, Laura Ingalls Wilder referred to them as "bangs" in her books...that 
would be about the right time frame...

Mary/Katerine


>Joan Garner wrote:
>
> > and no, I have _no_ idea why we call them bangs.
> > Penny, are you there????
>
>The OED was no further help.  Same 1878 date, although it seems calling
>it "bang*s*" is fairly recent.
>
>--Charlene
>
>--
>When a lion escapes from a circus in Africa, how do they know when
>they've caught the right one?  --George Carlin
>=====
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:49:48 -0800
Status: RO


>
>Iohanna the Harper
>(who is much kind after her decidedly non-period
>coffee)

At Ren. Faire here in N. California, any dark-coloured soft drink, in an 
opaque mug, is referred to as "dark ale" and any light-coloured one is 
referred to as "light ale" (even if it's orange).  Coffee and tea are 
similarly re-named.  (I'm glad I have a tankard with a lid, which hides the 
ice cubes.)

So how long ago was coffee drunk in Europe?  I seem to recall an Italian 
coffee roaster from the 1400's, and coffee beans being made into broth 
after one of the sieges of Vienna.

Kayta
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:18:07 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> From: "Daniel Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
[...]
>   (I know it's SCA policy, but these white knight's belts together with a
> proper swordbelt are just too much. Have the swordbelt white, if you must,
[...]
>  or leave off the white one because it's definetely not a medieval custom
> that you could know a knight by the colour of his belt,
> 
> This, too, is true.  but the tradition is so well entrenched I don't see it
> changing any time soon.  In fact, lots of people keep trying to reserve yet
> more colors of belt (and I won't get into a rant about that, here.)

Snort.  I remember my first SCA event, I got told that I shouldn't
wear a red belt.  I remember making a snarky comment that I hoped
they didn't have anyone with a swedish persona, then.  No Lucindas
in that crowd. ;}  Truthfully, if we're talking true red instead of
cordovan red, that's a harder and more expensive color to get than
white on leathers.  Off-white and white leather could be bleached
with ammonia (stale urine).  True red leather involves bleaching 
the leather at least some, then using one of the various scarlet
dyes.  Expensive.

[...]
>  and all female crowns before ca 1350 were worn over veils, and a lot of the
> time afterwards as well, except on the crowning occasion when the (always
> long) hair was worn loose)
> 
> Interesting.  That's a detail I hadn't picked up on.

Yes the Queen of Spades crown that I did for a fantasy costume was 
modeled on norman coronets and crowns.  Not only was it more practical
to wear a coif under it (no hair sticking out in weird directions, no
nasty groove in my forehead), but it looked more like the paintings
I'd been working from as source material.   If I'd been doing a crown
as a historical piece instead of a fantasy piece, I would've used a 
veil as the underpinning most likely.  

By the way, I priced out what I'd have to charge someone else for a
headpiece like that, and decided I just would decline any requests.
The beads and lead crystal stones alone came out to over US$ 100,
and the piece was several weeks of work.  It reminded me why most
of my jewelry is done for myself or as gifts for special people.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: period coffee? (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 21:16:42 GMT
Status: RO

On Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:49:48 -0800, the following was written in this
electric book by Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>:

>
>At Ren. Faire here in N. California, any dark-coloured soft drink, in an 
>opaque mug, is referred to as "dark ale" and any light-coloured one is 
>referred to as "light ale" (even if it's orange).  Coffee and tea are 
>similarly re-named.  (I'm glad I have a tankard with a lid, which hides the 
>ice cubes.)

We used to call it (eight or so years ago, in St Brigid's - Scots)
'uiske-dhu' or 'black water'. I'm sure it was incorrect Gaelic, but it
covered up what we were actually drinking first thing in the morning.

We did someting similar with our electrolyte drink, but in that case
we only 'Gaelicized' the colloquial name (batsweat - yes, just as
disgusting as it sounds, but it kept us alive). Unfortunately I don't
recall the name we used in public.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Preserving books?
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 16:22:51 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


Thanks everyone for all your help!  I feel much better about
bookshelf-making now.

Yours,

Drea

On Sat, 26 Jan 2002, Gary Walker wrote:

> on 1/25/02 9:24 AM, aleed at aleed@dnaco.net wrote:
> 
> > 
> > I'm buying some unfinished bookcases, and plan to finish them myself.
> > They're going to be holding some really pricy and really old books--some
> > over 200 years old.  Does anyone know what finishes I should use or avoid?
> > Is linseed oil OK, or should I use polyurethane? Will having glass doors
> > on the front help preserve them, or should they get some air flow?
> > 
> > Rather off topic, I know, but there are fabric conservationists on this
> > list and I was hoping they might have some pointers. :)
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Drea
> 
> Drea, 
> 
> http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/ has zillions of preservation related links,
> and a finder for professional conservators.  I hunted for a simple FAQ with
> an answer for this question, but there was too much stuff.
> 
> ... My husband the woodworker is now available.  He agrees about
> polyurethane's virtures, as Fred suggested.
> 
> However he disagrees about the glass.
> 
> Modern wood-pulp paper attracts dust mites as it ages.  A snugly-fitted
> glass door will keep moisture down inside (and we live in the Pacific
> NorthWET) and dust mite debris out of the rest of the house.  A well-fit
> door will create an interior micro-climate that stays steady when the
> outside (house interior) micro-climate fluctuates in temperature and
> humidity.  If moisture inside a closed bookcase is an extreme concern there
> are a number of ways to capture what moisture is inside; for example, a
> Dri-Z-Air "water sucker", or crystalline dessicant packets.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> Chimene & Gerek
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jan 29 15:49:37 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: what to do with long hair (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:24:14 -0800
Status: RO


>I agree
>
>"Headcovering is so rare to find at events, but what irks me more than 
>even that,
>are women who insist upon wearing their 16th c. French Hoods like modern alice
>bands, with their bangs hanging out front.  Grrrr.  It just looks... tacky.
>Another one is wearing crowns over hairsprayed hairdos... ::sigh::"

I personally like my hair short, similar to the asymmetric thing in my 
ASCII sig portrait.  But I realized I had to grow it long if I wanted to do 
historical with it.  Wearing a wig over short hair, for historical, is not 
an option for me, because wigs make me sweat in a most unladylike manner.

So I'm trying to design a hairdo which looks modern, for day to day, with 
t-shirt and jeans, and is long enough to do period for Edwardian, where all 
I am wearing on my head is hairpins and combs, indoors, and can't cover up 
short hair.  Wearing long hair fastened behind in a bunch with a hair 
thing, mundanely, makes me look like an old Hippie (which I am, but I don't 
want to emphasize that fact).  Maybe a low ponytail, like my (old 
Hippie/biker) Sweetie wears, but with a nice hair thing because he's a guy 
and I'm not?

Any advice here would be welcome.

Kayta
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: period coffee?
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 16:24:11 -0500
Status: RO

At 12:49 PM 1/29/02 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>
>>Iohanna the Harper
>>(who is much kind after her decidedly non-period
>>coffee)
>
>At Ren. Faire here in N. California, any dark-coloured soft drink, in an 
>opaque mug, is referred to as "dark ale" and any light-coloured one is 
>referred to as "light ale" (even if it's orange).  Coffee and tea are 
>similarly re-named.  (I'm glad I have a tankard with a lid, which hides the 
>ice cubes.)
>
>So how long ago was coffee drunk in Europe?  I seem to recall an Italian 
>coffee roaster from the 1400's, and coffee beans being made into broth 
>after one of the sieges of Vienna.
>
>Kayta
>

        Depends on where.  Coffee originating in Ethiopia as a plant has
been cultivated in Yemen from about the sixth century.  There is some
evidence of Black African cultivation earlier, but apparently they used it
as a solid food.  COFFEE A GUIDE TO BUYING, BREWING, and ENJOYING by Kenneth
Davids 1981, 101 Productions San Francisco it's popularity raced throughout
the world in the 16th century. Originally the beverage was controlled by the
arabs, but eventually some seeds snuck out, and the plant was growing
throughout India.  Later the French and the Dutch would be responsible for
transporting trees around the world, though the main cities were still Mocha
and Java. This source give little documentation and avoids dates, but
suggests that it remained a pricey commodity untill 1715.

        The ART of DINING by Sara Paston-Williams 1995 National Trust
Enterprises.Ltd. London is a far more schlarly work and it states that there
are references to coffee in travelogues to the East, but the first refernce
she found to the beverage in England is through a coffee house opened by a
Jewish man in 1650.  She gives the introduction to chocalate in England to
about the same date, and tea predating by a small amount to 1635.

        To all accounts however, the heyday of these hot beverages in
Britain and much of Europe is the 17th and 18th Centuries.  I would not be
surprised however is Spain made use of them earlier, due to her older
connection to North America (Chocalate) and her moorish connections (coffee).


 I am greatly interested in the three hot beverages, which I suppose is left
over from my days in the business.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:31:00 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

But coffee *is* period ...if you're in the Middle
East.  (As is cotton)

-Angela

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
References: <20020128212214.67379.qmail@earthlink.net>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:47:53 +0000
Status: RO

Henk 't Jong - tScapreel <scapreel@tip.nl> wrote
>   
>  What strikes me the most, however, after having seen the whole line-up
>  of the West-Kingdom's 12th Night revels, is that all you people look so
>  'terribly' <g> American. I honestly don't know if it's the faces, the hair or
>  what, but I could not ever confuse you guys with anybody else but US
>  citizens. Ant ideas why this is, List?
>   
Straight teeth and noses?  (Just a guess, I haven't managed to access 
the page, but I know exactly what you mean)

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:38:06 -0800
Status: RO


>
> > This, too, is true.  but the tradition is so well entrenched I don't see it
> > changing any time soon.  In fact, lots of people keep trying to reserve yet
> > more colors of belt (and I won't get into a rant about that, here.)
>
>Snort.  I remember my first SCA event, I got told that I shouldn't
>wear a red belt.

I second the derisive snort.  I have a German SCA persona, of an economic 
status where she could afford to wear the large-link gold chains which 
knights have taken for themselves.  So I wear these in multiples, because 
knights only wear one.  Similarly, SCA horsey-types can wear spurs as long 
as they are not roweled spurs.

Heraldry for my persona doesn't follow their rules either, as I am German 
and of a much later period of heraldry than they use.  So I registered 
something, and I use the German variation of one of the elements.  The 
representation I use is so similar to the thing I registered that nobody 
else could register it, and the differing element looks very much like its 
English equivalent.  Nobody has squawked yet.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From: "Parsla Liepa" <pliepa@hotmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 16:39:14 -0500
Status: RO


In the process of sorting through my inbox, I realized that I never said 
Thank You to all who helped me with my question about plaid fabric being 
used for Roman costume.

My friend who came to me with the original question (which I then forwarded 
here) told me that I have 'the coolest contacts!' Nah... I just know where 
to ask my questions...

Thank you.
Parsla



Vocatus atque non vocatus, Deus aderit.


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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:06:57 -0600
Status: RO


>She had a very "American-sounding" name,
>so English is almost certainly her native language.
>[No ESL excuses for her!]

Playing Devil's Advocate here...  How about English *is* her second 
language?  She might be Deaf and have her primary language be ASL.

How about she has some cognitive disability that makes her use weird 
expressions/syntax, while being extremely intelligent?

These are two disability awareness item that a lot of folks don't think of.

Not disability related.  My name is Nicolas Steenhout.  That's pretty much 
English sounding.  English is my fourth language.

Of course, she just *may* be uneducated and a bit of an idiot, but let's 
not jump to conclusions.

Ok, off my soap box.

Gorgeous Muiredach
Rokkehealden Shire
Middle Kingdom
aka
Nicolas Steenhout
"You must deal with me as I think of myself" J. Hockenberry

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Bangs (was: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was: Head-coverings])
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 19:08:26 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 29 Jan 2002, Mary Temple wrote:

> IIRC, Laura Ingalls Wilder referred to them as "bangs" in her books...that 
> would be about the right time frame...

Been a while since I read the book, but didn't her father refer to it as a
"lunatic fringe"?

--Robin

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:08:43 -0700
Status: RO


I would like to remind everyone that, as stated in the list
guidelines, "general discussion regarding the groups or organizations
that sponsor costumed events is discouraged".  Please take the
discussion of SCA regalia off the list.  Thanks.

					...eliz, list admin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 19:12:06 -0500
Status: RO



Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:

> 
> Probably Alchemy Gothic and similar manufacturer's cheezy jewelry.
> See:
> http://www.pendragongothic.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Pendants_322.html
> 
> Ahaha.  The "Celtic Ankh" is a new one.  And the Infernal Compass-Rose.
> Think of drippy occult jewelry, except this stuff isn't even made of
> silver.  The original "look" ends up being similar to the original
> descriptions of Magrat Garlick in _Weird Sisters_.
> 
*smiles*  I see now. It's most of what someone sells on ebay as
Renaissance.  Where would someone look for more period -1600 century or
there abouts- jewelry?

Diana
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@sound.net>
Subject: Re: period coffee? (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 19:57:04 -0600
Status: RO

At 09:16 PM 1/29/02 +0000, you wrote:

>We did someting similar with our electrolyte drink, but in that case
>we only 'Gaelicized' the colloquial name (batsweat - yes, just as
>disgusting as it sounds, but it kept us alive). Unfortunately I don't
>recall the name we used in public.
>
>Maura

We call our Gatorade "dragon squeezings". <grin>
Don't ask me why - no idea.

Sheryl Nance-Durst

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Subject: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 21:26:15 -0500
Status: RO

I just finished a new 18th c. wool jacket, using J.P. Ryan's new ladies'
jackets pattern:

http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/MVC-005F.JPG
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/MVC-010F.JPG

The pics aren't the best, due to lighting (inside, at night), and I'm not
wearing the rest of my kit, so it's not the full effect.  You can't see it,
but I just spent the evening artificially distressing it, so the jacket
looks a bit more like something a campfollower might wear.  There's
something perverse about making a wonderful new garment, then getting it
grimy (with mineral oil and soot, etc.).  Hard to do, but once I got
started, strangely fun.

Cheers,
Mara

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:24:14 -0600
Status: RO

Thanks but bananas give me heartburn something terrible...
guess I my toes can't be "chimp" toes huh? *L*

Greg and Dianne Stucki wrote:

> Me and my whole family. Care for a banana?
> 
> Dianne


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Bangs (was: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was: Head-coverings])
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 19:28:55 -0700
Status: RO

I think you're right...and didn't she curl them with some sort of
curling iron, heated up using a lamp of some sort?
--Sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 29 Jan 2002, Mary Temple wrote:
> 
> > IIRC, Laura Ingalls Wilder referred to them as "bangs" in her books...that
> > would be about the right time frame...
> 
> Been a while since I read the book, but didn't her father refer to it as a
> "lunatic fringe"?
> 
> --Robin
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Subject: Re: period coffee? (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:34:52 -0600
Status: RO

I call it "Merlin's morning social brew" cause it magicly make
me a social person after drinking it in the morning. *L*

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From: Katie <nejma@tds.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:43:41 -0600
Status: RO

Well done!

Katie

Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:

> I just finished a new 18th c. wool jacket, using J.P. Ryan's new ladies'
> jackets pattern:
> 
> http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/MVC-005F.JPG
> http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/MVC-010F.JPG
> 
> The pics aren't the best, due to lighting (inside, at night), and I'm not
> wearing the rest of my kit, so it's not the full effect.  You can't see it,
> but I just spent the evening artificially distressing it, so the jacket
> looks a bit more like something a campfollower might wear.  There's
> something perverse about making a wonderful new garment, then getting it
> grimy (with mineral oil and soot, etc.).  Hard to do, but once I got
> started, strangely fun.
> 
> Cheers,
> Mara
> 
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> 


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Subject: Re: period coffee? (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 21:47:02 -0600
Status: RO

I don't care what you call it, as long as you don't call it gone!

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie" <nejma@tds.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: period coffee? (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings


> I call it "Merlin's morning social brew" cause it magicly make
> me a social person after drinking it in the morning. *L*
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: Margo@Margospatterns.com
Subject: Re: Bangs (was: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was:
  Head-coverings])
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 19:22:48 -0800
Status: RO

At 07:28 PM 01/29/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I think you're right...and didn't she curl them with some sort of
>curling iron, heated up using a lamp of some sort?

No, she used her slate pencil, heated up on the wood stove.

Margo 


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
margospatterns.com

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:54:01 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:00 PM +1030 1/29/02, Rebecca Anderson wrote:

>P.S. where did this US  term "bangs" come from? I believe what you 
>are refering to is kown as a fringe here in Australia.

I can't say anything definitive without looking it up, but I do know 
that "hair cut short straight across" shows up in descriptions of 
horses, whether for manes or tails -- the phrase "bang-tailed nag" 
comes to mind.  It may be originally a horsey term that crept across, 
but that still begs the question of its origin.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:20:28 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:08 PM -0600 1/28/02, Robin Netherton wrote:

>Bear in mind also that "unmarried women" is an awfully broad phrase, and
>not really applicable in a medieval context the same way it is today, when
>women's roles, lifespan, and expectations of marriage/childbearing are
>very different. In many medieval time/place contexts, age was as much a
>factor as marital status; women were expected to cover the hair after a
>certain age whether they were married or not. Many women who remained
>unmarried entered religious orders -- and there's a reason we say "took
>the veil" to describe that action. Women who chose to remain single
>(eventually called spinsters in English, because so many unmarried women
>were able to support themselves by fiber production) might assume hair
>coverings to signify their independent economic status (as opposed to a
>virgin still living under her father's support, waiting to be married
>off).

Using this as a jump-off point -- for those who are interested in the 
topic of the social and legal position of adult, unmarried women in 
pre-modern times, I highly recommend a recent collection of essays 
"Singlewomen in the European Past 1250-1800" edited by Judith Bennett 
and Amy Froide (University of Pennsylvania Press, 1999).  Very 
scholarly and rigorous and yet (in my opinion) also very readable by 
the non-specialist.

Heather
-- 
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:56:51 -0500
Status: RO

They're supposed to fit? *G* My fourth toe is permanently bent. I can't 
straighten it any more.

Well, add long toes, long feet,  narrow heel, high arch... Luckily, they 
are also very strong feet. I work on my feet, so this is an issue, and 
for many jobs I need to wear dress shoes. My ideal shoe is a sandal, 
otherwise I mostly get really cheap ones. The more "good support" a shoe 
has, the worse it is for me, because it is supporting my foot in places 
my foot does not want to be. I'm going nuts because Payless no longer 
seems to carry my sneakers... and they, oddly, seem to use a last that 
works for me. Otherwise, I wear sandals from May through September, to 
try to let my poor toes straighten out.

I had Birkenstocks once, which were very comfortable, but looked like 
boats, because I had to get them about three sizes "too large" to get 
enough room for my toes, and place the arch properly. I forgot to make a 
note of the size, and haven't gotten new ones, because I will have to 
spend another 2 hours in the store with a patient salesperson who 
believes me... and is willing to run back and forth and let me try them 
all on...

Yes, I am strongly considering learning to make shoes. Marc, are you 
following this? LOL! I have a new friend who is a leatherworker, and 
doesn't yet know that he may find himself teaching me to work leather...

Anne

Pam Dotson wrote:

>>I have 4 toes all the same length, then this poor little smidge of a
>>little toe. Buying shoes is fun...
>>
>Buying shoes is the bane of my existence!  Have you found any types that
>actually fit feet like ours?
>
>Pam Dotson
>Everett, WA  USA
>
>_
>



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
References: <3C55C9AA.1000202@tds.net> <3C558889.4172.4F5C87C@localhost> <nNubWdCuMwV8Iw9V@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 19:12:05 -0500
Status: RO

I don't know what Chalet School is... but there's a reference in a play 
called Dear Brutus, by James Barry. One character is a girl who is about 
15, talking to her father about the next year, when it would be time to 
put her hair up and be a woman. She says she'll be "girl/woman, day 
about, for a year. You won't know which I am until you see if my hair is 
up, and even then you won't know, because if it up I'll take it down, 
and if it's down, I'll put it up." (Paraphrasing, here, haven't read it 
in a long time.) Clearly, even though the cut off age wasn't as absolute 
as it had been earlier, a grown woman wore her hair up! I read this when 
I was her age, and thought it a good description of the way I felt. BTW, 
Helen Hayes played her when she was the right age...

Anne

Jean Waddie wrote:

>>
> Or indeed just to putting the hair up - remember Chalet School girls 
> growing their hair when they got to a certain age, so they could put 
> it up the next year?  Not sure if it was 16 or 18.
>
> Jean
>
>>
>> Kat
>>



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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:14:47 EST
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In a message dated 1/29/2002 9:26:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lindo@radix.net writes:


> .  There's
> something perverse about making a wonderful new garment, then getting it
> grimy (with mineral oil and soot, etc.).  Hard to do, but once I got
> started, strangely fun.
> 

I love distressing [theatre word] or teching [movie word] costumes. It's like 
make up for clothes. It should have logic and tell a story. Y'know....Oh, she 
wipes her hands on hips a lot. Look, her cuffs have been snagged and run 
through the muck several times. She sits on the ground in that skirt a lot. 
She's been scrubbing the floor on her knees, look at the water stains. She's 
been outdoors a long time, the shoulders and back are faded......

It is fun. It's like creating a back story.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/29/2002 9:26:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, lindo@radix.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">. &nbsp;There's
<BR>something perverse about making a wonderful new garment, then getting it
<BR>grimy (with mineral oil and soot, etc.). &nbsp;Hard to do, but once I got
<BR>started, strangely fun.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I love distressing [theatre word] or teching [movie word] costumes. It's like make up for clothes. It should have logic and tell a story. Y'know....Oh, she wipes her hands on hips a lot. Look, her cuffs have been snagged and run through the muck several times. She sits on the ground in that skirt a lot. She's been scrubbing the floor on her knees, look at the water stains. She's been outdoors a long time, the shoulders and back are faded......
<BR>
<BR>It is fun. It's like creating a back story.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:22:11 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, Katya. If you mean by stork-scissors the scissors shaped like a bird, I'm
pretty sure they are late 18th Cent., if not later. I like the wooden boxes
from Amman (Brushmaker and Apothecary). They can be gotten sometimes in IKEAs
and sometimes in shops that sell Scandinavian things. Some modern craftsmen do
them, but they use a slightly different technique to make them. I think the one
shown in Amman in the background of the Tailor is a turned box, similar to ones
from the Vasa wreck (Swedish 17th cent.) I'll try and find some of those
scissor pics I have. Mike T.

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> >Like a lot of people, I'm attracted to the small one-piece spring-shears
> >because they look "non-modern", but for medieval handwork I've come to the
> >conclusion that this is one of those misguided substitutions of the
> >inaccurate but "exotic" for the accurate but "familiar".
>
> Jost Amman, in his book of woodcuts c.1560, shows these one-piece
> scissors.  Since most of my pre-1600 sewing is done as a
> Landsknecht/Kampfrau, it seems to fit.  My upper-class German SCA persona
> would probably have stork-scissors for needlework use.
>
> >  I don't know of a study on
> >the subject, but I am interested in your findings on containers. I have
> >seen illos of the bentwood materials (modern versions can be gotten from
> >Scandinavian sources) and some woven pieces. I have noticed in my
> >research on surgical things that the boxes used to pack bandages look
> >remarkably like those used for sewing.
>
> I use a wood box which used to contain Madelines - oval with thin wood
> sides and a wood top - similar to the round ones I see in Jost Amman, for
> my Kampfrau.  My upper class German persona doesn't really have a sewing
> box yet, but it would be fancier than a plain unpainted wood box.
>
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:30:27 -0500
Status: RO

> Havent seen it. (Maybe it's not that ubiquitous? <grin>) Which Emperor &
> what date?

The last of Illustrious Memory, circa 1936ish. Mike T.

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:36:38 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, Angela. You should send a note to Kass (the creator of the
reconstructinghistory site) and ask her opinion. I don't remember if she
is on this list, but she will definitely give you some idea based on her
research... Mike T.


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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:47:07 -0500
Status: RO

Make up for clothes. What a wonderful description! Character make up...

I think it is fun, too.

Anne

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>
> I love distressing [theatre word] or teching [movie word] costumes. 
> It's like make up for clothes. It should have logic and tell a story. 
> Y'know....Oh, she wipes her hands on hips a lot. Look, her cuffs have 
> been snagged and run through the muck several times. She sits on the 
> ground in that skirt a lot. She's been scrubbing the floor on her 
> knees, look at the water stains. She's been outdoors a long time, the 
> shoulders and back are faded......
>
> It is fun. It's like creating a back story.



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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:56:19 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. Since this is the h-costume list and not the SCA or RenFaire
authenticity list, I suppose you could do whatever you wanted without
worrying about it being "period". It is "period", but which "Period" you
are referring to is based on your grasp of how historical you find
yourself needing to be. If you are talking from an SCA perspective, you
can always quote the oft-heard mantra about "creativity" being in the
title. If you are doing RenFaire, no one will care anyway, and if you
are a reenactor or a Living History person, you will drink it before the
site opens or the public sees it unless you can adequately document it
for your period, your social class and your region. I can't think of any
costume related thing to add to this, aside from the thought that this
discussion mirrors the attitudes prevalent in each of the abovementioned
groups as relates to their clothing, also. Mike T.

Angela Kovatch wrote:

> But coffee *is* period ...if you're in the Middle
> East.  (As is cotton)
>
> -Angela
>

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:59:58 -0700
Status: RO

Oh, duh <g> I must be remembering something else, then.....
--Sue

Margo@margospatterns.com wrote:
> 
> At 07:28 PM 01/29/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> >I think you're right...and didn't she curl them with some sort of
> >curling iron, heated up using a lamp of some sort?
> 
> No, she used her slate pencil, heated up on the wood stove.
> 
> Margo
> 
> Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
> margospatterns.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:02:18 -0700
Status: RO

Hey, nice job, but there's something wonderfully quirky about seeing it
worn over a pair of blue jeans <ggg>
--Sue, who has JP's stays pattern, and who is taking another class from
her later this spring....

Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> I just finished a new 18th c. wool jacket, using J.P. Ryan's new ladies'
> jackets pattern:
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:33:14 -0800
Status: RO


>If you mean by stork-scissors the scissors shaped like a bird, I'm
>pretty sure they are late 18th Cent., if not later.

I seem to recall they're earlier.  I don't own any, but if my rich Ren. 
character had her own box, something just as fancy would be in there.

>I like the wooden boxes
>from Amman (Brushmaker and Apothecary). They can be gotten sometimes in IKEAs
>and sometimes in shops that sell Scandinavian things.

The craft places carry these, in several sizes and shapes (round and 
oval).  I'm using a box from cost Plus, which used to contain Madelines 
(cookies).

>Some modern craftsmen do
>them, but they use a slightly different technique to make them.

Some look more like what the American colonists used, and I stay away from 
those for Ren.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: period coffee?
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:46:26 -0800
Status: RO


>Hi. Since this is the h-costume list and not the SCA or RenFaire
>authenticity list, I suppose you could do whatever you wanted without
>worrying about it being "period". It is "period", but which "Period" you
>are referring to is based on your grasp of how historical you find
>yourself needing to be. If you are talking from an SCA perspective, you
>can always quote the oft-heard mantra about "creativity" being in the
>title. If you are doing RenFaire, no one will care anyway, and if you
>are a reenactor or a Living History person, you will drink it before the
>site opens or the public sees it unless you can adequately document it
>for your period, your social class and your region. I can't think of any
>costume related thing to add to this, aside from the thought that this
>discussion mirrors the attitudes prevalent in each of the abovementioned
>groups as relates to their clothing, also.

I'm very much of the 'hide it' school of thought for Ren., as I don't drink 
alcohol and most of 'them' didn't drink water.  I get thirsty on a hot day, 
and I put what I drink into a covered tankard so at least it looks ok from 
the outside.  Even if I have to buy it in a paper cup, it goes into my 
tankard (most Ren. Faire beverage stands will obligingly fill any 
cup/mug/tankard you bring them).  And 'light ale/dark ale' is as hokey as I 
am willing to call it.  But if I am doing Georgian thru Edwardian, I get to 
drink tea, usually out of one of my period-looking china cups (thank 
providence for thrift stores).


Kayta
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:13:43 +0000
Status: RO

Possibly "Little Women", where IIRC Jo causes Meg's curls to singe and break off by overheating the curling tongs?


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mooncat@in-tch.com 01/30/02 05:59am >>>
Oh, duh <g> I must be remembering something else, then.....
--Sue

Margo@margospatterns.com wrote:
> 
> At 07:28 PM 01/29/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> >I think you're right...and didn't she curl them with some sort of
> >curling iron, heated up using a lamp of some sort?
> 
> No, she used her slate pencil, heated up on the wood stove.
> 
> Margo
> 
> Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
> margospatterns.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: what to do with long hair (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:48:03 +0000
Status: RO

Kayta wrote:

>I personally like my hair short, similar to the asymmetric thing in my 
>ASCII sig portrait.  But I realized I had to grow it long if I wanted to do 
>historical with it.  Wearing a wig over short hair, for historical, is not 
>an option for me, because wigs make me sweat in a most unladylike >manner.
>So I'm trying to design a hairdo which looks modern, for day to day, with 
>t-shirt and jeans, and is long enough to do period for Edwardian, where all 
>I am wearing on my head is hairpins and combs, indoors, and can't cover >up short hair.  Wearing long hair fastened behind in a bunch with a hair 
>thing, mundanely, makes me look like an old Hippie (which I am, but I don't 
>want to emphasize that fact).  Maybe a low ponytail, like my (old 
>Hippie/biker) Sweetie wears, but with a nice hair thing because he's a guy 
>and I'm not?

>Any advice here would be welcome.

I can't offer any useful advice because my hair is so thick (and grows so low around my face and neck) that wearing it long mundanely isn't really an option. I grew it three times as a girl, once with a fringe (bangs) and twice without. I had enough to do it like the young Queen Victoria, with plaits (braids) looped round my ears and a bun at the back, but the only grown-up style suitable for everyday I could manage was a 1930s-style bun in the back of my neck (where it grows thickest). I envy those women whose hair falls neatly into a long tail which can be coiled into a bun with a minimum of fastening. 
For 17th century reenactment I cover the lot with a coif or, with upper-class clothing, pin it back from my face and hide the spiky ends under a veil.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Andrea Gideon,

Your last 2 messages didn't come through to the list, at least not where =
I can read them. What's gone wrong?


Henk


Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
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<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Andrea Gideon,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Your last 2 messages didn't come through to the list, at least not =
where I
can read them. What's gone wrong?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very own =
domain:
<A =
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Gorgeous (g),

You wrote:
      Not disability related.  My name is Nicolas Steenhout.  That's =
pretty much
      English sounding.  English is my fourth language.

  Sounds and looks Dutch to me: the Dutch word Steenhout means Stonewood =
in English. Nicolas is almost Dutch (Nicolaas) and always shortened to =
either Nico or Klaas. But if you are of Dutch descent you probably know =
that already. Well, now the list knows...


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
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  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

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<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Gorgeous (g),</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Not disability related.&nbsp; My name is =
Nicolas
  Steenhout.&nbsp; That's pretty much <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; English
  sounding.&nbsp; English is my fourth language.<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Sounds and looks Dutch to me: the&nbsp;Dutch word Steenhout means =

  Stonewood in English. Nicolas is almost Dutch (Nicolaas) and always =
shortened
  to either Nico or Klaas. But if you are of Dutch descent you probably =
know
  that already. Well, now the list knows...</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></B=
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
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Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Dan,

It looks like we're very much on the same wavelength in all this, which =
is great. Glad feelings in the SCA (well, the West Kingdom...) are =
changing.
  You've got some really interesting stuff there.  I need to find time =
to
  actually go and look at all of it.  :)

  Hope you'll pick up some stuff you can use. Please ask if you want to =
know more.

  Regards,


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl


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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Dan,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>It looks like we're very much on the same wavelength in all this, =
which is
great. Glad feelings in the SCA (well, the West Kingdom...) are =
changing.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>You've got some really interesting stuff there.&nbsp; I need to =
find time
  to<BR>actually go and look at all of it.&nbsp; :)<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Hope you'll pick up some stuff you can use. Please ask if you =
want to
  know more.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Regards,</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE=
></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.3.1.2.20020129132609.00d603b0@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 12:35:06 +0100
Status: RO

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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Carolyn,

You wrote:
      Heraldry for my persona doesn't follow their rules either, as I am =
German
  and of a much later period of heraldry than they use.  So I registered =

  something, and I use the German variation of one of the elements.  The =

  representation I use is so similar to the thing I registered that =
nobody
  else could register it, and the differing element looks very much like =
its
  English equivalent.  Nobody has squawked yet.


  I'm curious now. What's your coat of arms like? Any chance of a =
picture of it somewhere?


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Carolyn,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Heraldry for my persona doesn't follow their =
rules
  either, as I am German <BR>and of a much later period of heraldry than =
they
  use.&nbsp; So I registered <BR>something, and I use the German =
variation of
  one of the elements.&nbsp; The <BR>representation I use is so similar =
to the
  thing I registered that nobody <BR>else could register it, and the =
differing
  element looks very much like its <BR>English equivalent.&nbsp; Nobody =
has
  squawked yet.<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>I'm curious now. What's your coat of arms like? Any chance of a =
picture
  of it somewhere?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel =
website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very =
own
  domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></B=
ODY></HTML>

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: what to do with long hair (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 04:23:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
>Wearing long hair fastened behind in a bunch with a
>hair thing, mundanely, makes me look like an old
>Hippie (which I am, but I don't want to emphasize
>that fact). 

>From one old hippie to another - what I do with my
couple-of-inches-below-my-shoulders hair for the
office is the crochet-bun-cover-and-a-hair-stick
thing. I'm all thumbs with hair and I can put my hair
up (neatly) in less than 3 minutes.  I've been
crocheting the bun covers out of size 10 crochet
thread and have about 10 colors now, and I've become
the Hair Stick Queen.  Now I've brought my daughter to
the bun-cover-and-hairstick side of the Force.  She
likes it because it's neat, quick and professional
looking for teaching.

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If my home is my castle, where are the servants?"
"Hey, you!  Are you a servant?"



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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 07:58:52 -0500
Status: RO

At 08:16 PM 01/29/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Or indeed just to putting the hair up - remember Chalet School girls 
>growing their hair when they got to a certain age, so they could put it 
>up the next year?  Not sure if it was 16 or 18.
>
>Jean

That one's still around... My mom gets quite bent out of shape if I wear my
hair down, because, according to her, "a lady above a certain age" (about
16, I think) should either cut her hair short (shorter than shoulder
length) or wear it up.  I've got hair to the middle of my back, and wear it
any number of ways -- usually braided or clipped back in a barette, but
sometimes in a chignon.  She was born in 1944, and had her debut when she
was 16, in Birmingham AL, so...

-- Mara 


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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 05:11:15 -0800
Status: RO


>That one's still around... My mom gets quite bent out of shape if I wear my
>hair down, because, according to her, "a lady above a certain age" (about
>16, I think) should either cut her hair short (shorter than shoulder
>length) or wear it up.  I've got hair to the middle of my back, and wear it
>any number of ways -- usually braided or clipped back in a barette, but
>sometimes in a chignon.  She was born in 1944, and had her debut when she
>was 16, in Birmingham AL, so...

I was born in 1949, and I remember that even in California.  I think it's 
Medieval, except the part about cutting it short.  These days it seems to 
be more OK for women to wear their hair down, and I see some pretty long 
grey hair walking around on women older than I am.


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:07:39 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Somewhat behind on e-mails so just saw this one....

> No one of y'all that attended 12th night in Chicago yesterday took the
> time to say hi...  Somewhat disappointing...  I don't bite...

"What," he asked with a wicked gleam in his eye, "not even if they 
ask really nicely?".....

Teddy
(Sorry you were disappointed, but I just couldn't resist a line like 
that!)



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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 06:23:48 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
> --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> >Wearing long hair fastened behind in a bunch with a
> >hair thing, mundanely, makes me look like an old
> >Hippie (which I am, but I don't want to emphasize
> >that fact). 
> 
> From one old hippie to another - what I do with my
> couple-of-inches-below-my-shoulders hair for the
> office is the crochet-bun-cover-and-a-hair-stick
> thing. I'm all thumbs with hair and I can put my hair
> up (neatly) in less than 3 minutes.  I've been
> crocheting the bun covers out of size 10 crochet
> thread and have about 10 colors now, and I've become
> the Hair Stick Queen.  Now I've brought my daughter to
> the bun-cover-and-hairstick side of the Force.  She
> likes it because it's neat, quick and professional
> looking for teaching.

Let me once again tout Anne Akers Johnson's book, _Hair. A Book of Braiding
and Styles_.  For everyday wear, I'd suggest out of this book the French
Twist, the Flip (ponyflip), Quiff (works with shorter hair, I can now use
this one), Roll (I used to wear a varient that caught up all your hair),
Rolled Braid, Rolled Bun, Reverse Roll (varient of a rope twist), Top
Twist (related to the Quiff), any number of varients of a braided bun.
All of these can look quite professional with practice (and smoothing 
serum, in my case).  For that matter, a simple french braid can look
good after you've practiced at it for a while.  I'm waiting for my
hair to grow out enough that I can put it all in a single braid/queue.
The Quiff or Top Twist are good for that growing-in phase.

[wondering how long before people start calling me "Rapunzel" again]
Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:34:38 -0500
Status: RO

On 29 Jan 02, at 23:02, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Hey, nice job, but there's something wonderfully quirky about seeing
> it worn over a pair of blue jeans <ggg> --Sue, who has JP's stays
> pattern, and who is taking another class from her later this
> spring....

I was thinking myself that it looked rather nifty as a mundane-wear 
jacket... remembering the thread a little while ago about wearing 
elements of costume as everyday wear. Maybe I'll have to make 
one for myself, to wear to work! (Like I need to add to the miles-
long project list...)

--Jessica
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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: period coffee?
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 06:52:02 -0800 (PST)
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--- leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote:
> Hi. Since this is the h-costume list and not the SCA
> or RenFaire
> authenticity list, 

Perfectly right.  The funny thing is, I wrote the post
thinking "hey, not everyone is on this list to do
Elizabethan or (European) medieval"  and wanted to
subtly remind everyone that there is more to the wide
world of historic costuming (hence the reference to
cotton, an option for sewing material) and reenacting.
 But after I sent it, I realized that I had let my own
reference set of SCA "period" unconsciously sneak in
to my writing.  A thousand apologies for sloppy use of
terminology.

-Angela


> Mike T.
> 
> Angela Kovatch wrote:
> 
> > But coffee *is* period ...if you're in the Middle
> > East.  (As is cotton)
> >
> > -Angela
> >

__________________________________________________
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] First few pictures of Teddy's Coronation
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 15:43:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hello all

I figure someone's bound to ask so here's the first few pictures that 
have been made web-ready.....

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/farisles/lst

and pick the "coronation" folder.

I didn't finish gthe new oufit, despite many late nights in a row, so 
wore my simplest, unadorned linen 15th century under the robe of 
state. White braes and shirt, oatmeal paltock/underdoublet thingy 
and lace-on straight sleeves with dark oliveish green seperate-leg 
hose.  I'll finish the off white damask and velvet set for when i 
preside over May Revel Court - if i'm lucky..<G>

The Ceremony went well, as did the feasts, fireworks and other 
celebrations,  Court dragged on far too long as the world and his 
wife wanted to bring matters before the new King and/or shower 
him with gifts and there were a lot of visitors and ambasadors from 
other lands (including Karen Bergquist, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg 
and mel Wilson from h-costume).

Unfortunately the fighters and archers got a raw-deal as the bad 
weather prevented the tourneys from taking place.  But I got so 
many lovely, well thought-out Coronation gifts that I was in tears 
afterwards.

Teddy


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fulled silk?!?!
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 15:45:53 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I suspect the "fulling" might be due to the herringbone weave
> rather than the fiber.  I had some herringbone rayon suiting, and
> when I washed it I got a thick, spongy fabric with no visible
> herringbone. 

And I had the same thing happen with herringbone linen, of all 
things.  The resultant fabric made a *lovely* tunic for a friend and it 
was so soft and springy I'm sorry I didn't use it for fitted hose 
instead

Teddy
 


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Sue's fabric stash (WAS:Fulled silk?!?!)
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 15:35:02 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> And of course I'm keeping my pink wool and linen, so that someday I
> can make that pink and orange outfit Teddy challenged me to do last
> year (still looking for orange wool of a weight good for a
> houpelande or surcoat, as the pink will be a fully lined Gothic
> Fitted Gown (tm). 

The Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny strikes again!  Yay!

Teddy
(back from Coronation - King now - on a *high* but brain-dead from 
lack of sleep and a couple of weeks behind with e-mails - 
especially h-cost digests!)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] First few pictures of Teddy's Coronation
From: Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
Cc: Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 16:02:36 +0000
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :

> Hello all
> 
> I figure someone's bound to ask so here's the first few pictures that 
> have been made web-ready.....
> 
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/farisles/lst
> 
> and pick the "coronation" folder.

Make that the "Coronation - Phil" folder. The one labelled "Coronation - Jane", even when filled, will be much less garb-relevant.




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] First few pictures of Teddy's Coronation
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:54:43 -0800
Status: RO


 > Make that the "Coronation - Phil" folder. The one labelled 
>"Coronation - Jane", even when filled, will be much less garb-
>relevant.

Oh, but the pig is so cute. ;)

Teddy looks soooo regal!


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's she got on her head?
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:52:55 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- Katie <nejma@tds.net> wrote:
> On the page for head gear, it said 

I guess I should read the web page I asked you all to
look at. <sheepish laugh>  I looked at every site I
could find about Irish clothing months ago when I
started the project, but I guess I wasn't paying
attention to head decorations at that point.  Then
when I went back looking for a good copy of the
picture, everything looked so familiar that I didn't
bother to re-read it.

The good news is that in the last few months my hair
has grown just enough so that I think I can just
barely pull off the braids over the top of the head
look.

-Angela



that the young
> ladies
> wore ribbon wrapped around their heads...
> 
> "They maydes weare on the forepart of their head
> about
>   foure yards of coloured ribbon smoothly layd, and
> theyre
>   owne hayre playted behind."
> 
> I would guess the dots are "artistic license", when
> the artist painted something was needed to "dress it
> up".
> *g*
> 
> Heck I don't know, why do I take up bandwith on
> stuff like
> this? *L*
> 
> Katie
> 
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: veils and crowns
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:51:47 -0500
Status: RO


Thank you, Henk!!!!!!

Crown OVER veil, crown OVER veil, crown OVER veil . . . why is that so hard
a concept?

In the SCA I am a baroness, so I wear a coronet. In the early years, when I
was very casual about such things, I used to wear my coronet without a veil.
Since centering on 14th and 15th century costumes, I always wear a veil. And
it is MUCH more comfortable, for one thing. Also, it just looks a lot
better. Crowns show up much better against veils, for one thing.

Because I'm in the SCA I have costumes from other eras too, and sometimes
the right head covering is dirty or lost or a crumpled ball of linen I
forgot to iron. In that case, I wear the wrong head covering. It bothers me,
but most people don't know the difference, and I'd rather have something on
my head than nothing!

You are right about the white belt, too. If our club is going to give a
white belt for knights, there's nothing wrong with that. But then it ought
to be a sword belt, or other appropriate belt for the costume. Not just a
plain white belt stuck on top of whatever you already own.

Gail Finke

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
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References: <95683E64E705CB41BB06F348AE5F597B0E8ED3@tko-exch.phoenix.com> <003701c1a54a$a15bde80$6401a8c0@home.com> <012801c1a7ed$18d3b560$32eaf1c3@henk> <009f01c1a81f$bf435cc0$31c5fea9@ed.unr.edu> <000001c1a8f3$077df8a0$4dcaf1c3@henk> <00f601c1a8f6$f744ffc0$31c5fea9@ed.unr.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 19:28:11 +0100
Status: RO

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------=_NextPart_000_0189_01C1A9C4.41341120
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Dan,

You wrote:
      They'll eventually get done, but my lady has asked that I not =
finish them
      without her help since she wants to learn how to assemble them.

  And a useful excercise this is. Do you finish your medieval 'garb' by =
hand?


      I have photos of the pourpoint.  If I could get fabric to match =
I'd be a
      happy person.  :)

  I bet you'll be looking for a long time... ;-(


      If I could wear wool, that might be an option, but I can't so it's =
not.  :(


  Not any wool? F.i. 80 or 70 % wool and dralon etc the rest? Or lined =
wool? Bummer!


  Henk


  Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

------=_NextPart_000_0189_01C1A9C4.41341120
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Dan,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; They'll eventually get done, but my lady has =
asked
  that I not finish them<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; without her help since =
she wants
  to learn how to assemble them.<BR><BR>And a useful excercise this is. =
Do you
  finish your medieval 'garb' by hand?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have photos of the pourpoint.&nbsp; If I =
could
  get fabric to match I'd be a<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; happy person.&nbsp; =

  :)<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>I bet you'll be looking for a long time... ;-(<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If I could wear wool, that might be an option, but I
  can't so it's not.&nbsp; :(<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Not any wool? F.i. 80 or 70 % wool and dralon etc the rest? Or lined
  wool? Bummer!</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the revised and even more colourful tScapreel website;<BR>Separate
  English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very own domain: <A
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: veils and crowns
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 15:34:38 -0500
Status: RO

This reminds me of a link someone posted a while back, about how to 
wear veils and circlets to avoid what the author called 
"muffin-head." I lost the link, and would appreciate it if someone 
would post it or send it to me again. We may be selling our jewelry 
at a Ren Faire this fall so it's become more relevant to me than it 
was when it was posted.

Thanks much!

-Amanda Fisher
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From: chimericalgirl@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: veils and crowns
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 21:44:23 GMT
Status: RO

On Wed, 30 Jan 2002 15:34:38 -0500, the following was written in this
electric book by sustre@pixelations.com:

>This reminds me of a link someone posted a while back, about how to 
>wear veils and circlets to avoid what the author called 
>"muffin-head." I lost the link, and would appreciate it if someone 
>would post it or send it to me again. We may be selling our jewelry 
>at a Ren Faire this fall so it's become more relevant to me than it 
>was when it was posted.

http://www.virtue.to/articles/veils.html

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: what to do with long hair (was Re: [h-cost] Head-coverings
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 <4.3.1.2.20020129125122.00d5c2e0@mail.frys.com>
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 22:12:06 +0000
Status: RO

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote
>
>>I agree
>>
>>"Headcovering is so rare to find at events, but what irks me more than 
>>even that,
>>are women who insist upon wearing their 16th c. French Hoods like modern alice
>>bands, with their bangs hanging out front.  Grrrr.  It just looks... tacky.
>>Another one is wearing crowns over hairsprayed hairdos... ::sigh::"
>
>I personally like my hair short, similar to the asymmetric thing in my 
>ASCII sig portrait.  But I realized I had to grow it long if I wanted 
>to do historical with it.  Wearing a wig over short hair, for 
>historical, is not an option for me, because wigs make me sweat in a 
>most unladylike manner.
>
>So I'm trying to design a hairdo which looks modern, for day to day, 
>with t-shirt and jeans, and is long enough to do period for Edwardian, 
>where all I am wearing on my head is hairpins and combs, indoors, and 
>can't cover up short hair.  Wearing long hair fastened behind in a 
>bunch with a hair thing, mundanely, makes me look like an old Hippie 
>(which I am, but I don't want to emphasize that fact).  Maybe a low 
>ponytail, like my (old Hippie/biker) Sweetie wears, but with a nice 
>hair thing because he's a guy and I'm not?
>
>Any advice here would be welcome.
>
>Kayta

Have you tried a hairpiece?  I was helping a fellow performer with hers 
in a show a few years ago, and I can't now remember exactly how it 
fixed, but I know the first step was to get her hair into a ponytail, 
which was about an inch long - she had a very short bob.  If you can get 
the short side of your hair into a pony with the long side, a hairpiece 
would just fill it out and then you can style it up and around.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jan 30 16:46:50 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone on the list do Janet Arnold-style grid patterns?
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 02:21:13 -0800
Status: RO

Well personally what I do is just drape a new pattern using the JA's as
a guide.  It's a long simpler and less fussy than adjusting a period
pattern to fit a modern body.  I did have one friend that was so small
that I had to take in any period pattern I used on her.  But that
doesn't happen very often.

Stephen

carol wrote:
> 
> Hello Stephen
> Any advice on how to modify those JA patterns for a
> larger size ?
> thanks
> Carol
> 
> =====
> ....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....
> 
> "The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."
> 
> "The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 14:55:41 -0800
Status: RO


>Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote

>I personally like my hair short, similar to the asymmetric thing in my 
>ASCII sig portrait.  But I realized I had to grow it long if I wanted to 
>do historical with it.  Wearing a wig over short hair, for historical, is 
>not an option for me, because wigs make me sweat in a most unladylike manner.
>>
>>So I'm trying to design a hairdo which looks modern, for day to day,


>Have you tried a hairpiece?  I was helping a fellow performer with hers in 
>a show a few years ago, and I can't now remember exactly how it fixed, but 
>I know the first step was to get her hair into a ponytail, which was about 
>an inch long - she had a very short bob.  If you can get the short side of 
>your hair into a pony with the long side, a hairpiece would just fill it 
>out and then you can style it up and around.

Hadn't thought about hairpieces.  My salt-and-pepper hair colour could be 
re-created if I combined two hairpieces, one grey and one brown.

The trouble is it has to be long at both sides for 1850's, and be long in 
back for 1890-1910.  The wonderful asymmetrical cut just wouldn't do 
this.  My hair is long in back right now, and in a low ponytail which hangs 
about a foot down my back.  The sides are just long enough to tuck behind 
my ears, still growing out from my last haircut (which did away with the 
asymmetry, but left me with it short in front).

Maybe I could use the hairpiece idea to add a modern touch to a simple long 
haircut.  There are plenty of different shapes of hairpieces available 
these days, even at those giant drug stores.  Maybe I could accomplish the 
asymmetry with one of them, suitably colour matched or non-real blue.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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References: <28021005729@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disapointment :-(
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 19:03:53 -0500
Status: RO

Well Teddy....... did you take the Teddy Fan Club Color Test?  We had so
much fun with it on the list?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 19:13:59 -0500
Status: RO

So Teddy, who is who in the photos?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Long hair
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 10:51:59 -0800
Status: RO

At 5:11 AM -0800 1/30/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>That one's still around... My mom gets quite bent out of shape if I wear my
>>hair down, because, according to her, "a lady above a certain age" (about
>>16, I think) should either cut her hair short (shorter than shoulder
>>length) or wear it up.  I've got hair to the middle of my back, and wear it
>>any number of ways -- usually braided or clipped back in a barette, but
>>sometimes in a chignon.  She was born in 1944, and had her debut when she
>>was 16, in Birmingham AL, so...
>
>I was born in 1949, and I remember that even in California.  I think 
>it's Medieval, except the part about cutting it short.  These days 
>it seems to be more OK for women to wear their hair down, and I see 
>some pretty long grey hair walking around on women older than I am.
>

Even the "cutting it short" part is medieval if you consider it the 
equivalent of joining a religious order (which sometimes involved 
cutting the hair short, although you couldn't see it under the 
headgear).

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 21:08:30 -0500
Status: RO

<html>
At 11:14 PM 01/29/2002 -0500, you wrote: <br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>I love distressing [theatre word] or teching
[movie word] costumes. It's like make up for clothes. It should have
logic and tell a story. Y'know....Oh, she wipes her hands on hips a lot.
Look, her cuffs have been snagged and run through the muck several times.
She sits on the ground in that skirt a lot. She's been scrubbing the
floor on her knees, look at the water stains. She's been outdoors a long
time, the shoulders and back are faded...... <br>
<br>
It is fun. It's like creating a back story. </blockquote><br>
Yep... that's what I was trying to keep in mind for this jacket; wear on
the elbows and cuffs, and where you'd wipe your hands on the
front/sides.&nbsp; A bit of wear on the shoulders where one might have a
haversack strap... &lt;g&gt;&nbsp; I tried not to overdo it with the
patches (three, not very obtrusive -- one on the elbow in dark red wool,
another on the cuff in brown linen, a third in an almost but not quite
matching green wool on the front bottom hem).&nbsp; I don't want the
patches and grime to be immediately obvious so much as subtle and
&quot;there&quot;.&nbsp; Too immediately visible wouldn't look
natural.<br>
<br>
Now I need to decide what, if anything, to do to my petticoats.&nbsp; The
top one is charcoal grey, so it hides stains pretty well...<br>
<br>
-- Mara
<BR>
</html>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 21:09:58 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:02 PM 01/29/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Hey, nice job, but there's something wonderfully quirky about seeing it
>worn over a pair of blue jeans <ggg>
>--Sue, who has JP's stays pattern, and who is taking another class from
>her later this spring....

Thanks!  I sometimes wear my red 17th c. jacket over blue jeans, so... :D

-- Mara

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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 22:51:49 -0500
Status: RO

Where can I purchase this pattern?  I like the jacket, and I can't find the
links to 5 Rivers or a couple of the other places that might have it.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kevin + Mara Riley
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 9:26 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket


I just finished a new 18th c. wool jacket, using J.P. Ryan's new ladies'
jackets pattern:

http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/MVC-005F.JPG
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Temp/MVC-010F.JPG

The pics aren't the best, due to lighting (inside, at night), and I'm not
wearing the rest of my kit, so it's not the full effect.  You can't see it,
but I just spent the evening artificially distressing it, so the jacket
looks a bit more like something a campfollower might wear.  There's
something perverse about making a wonderful new garment, then getting it
grimy (with mineral oil and soot, etc.).  Hard to do, but once I got
started, strangely fun.

Cheers,
Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headcoverings...was 14th Century Cote and Gown
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 23:49:15 -0500
Status: RO

and...well... now that I'm making a veil, I thought I just needed a new gown
to go with it....;-)
Moira

> Okay so basicly since I am an old woman ;) I should
> have my head covered anyway. *L* Okay I can live with
> that, it gives me an excuse to go to the fabric store.
> *L*
>
> "Honey, going to the fabric store need veil material."
> Vaaarrrooommm!!!
>
> Katie


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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 23:52:30 -0500
Status: RO

OOC, where in the US is it used?  I've only heard it said by people from the
UK as far as I can remember.
Moira

> > This isn't specifically Irish - "wonky" is a British Isles colloquialism
for "faulty" or "lopsided",  and, as others have pointed out, "fringe" (in
the singular) is the normal term here and in Australia.
>
> "Wonky" is also used in the US.
>
> --Charlene
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 22:18:32 -0700
Status: RO

Here's JP's website:
http://www.jpryan.com/
Lots of way-cool stuff.
Also, she teaches classes through Penny's website (which is how I came
into contact with her).  If you're interested, click on this:
http://www.costumeclassroom.com/
and then go to the instructors, and then to JP Ryan....she's got a
couple of classes coming up later this year.  One is on the ladies'
caraco jacket, and the other is on the pet-en-l'air (aka Robe a la
Francaise).  Completely yummy looking.
--Sue


"Megan M." wrote:
> 
> Where can I purchase this pattern?  I like the jacket, and I can't find the
> links to 5 Rivers or a couple of the other places that might have it.
> -Megan
>
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 02:48:54 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks Sue for the plug.  Janice has just added the pet-en-l'air (aka Robe a
la Francaise) class starting June 4.  I have also added some photos of the
costumes to the class description webpage.  Janice provides a concise
history of the garment on this webpage.  It is very interesting reading.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 12:18 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket


> Here's JP's website:
> http://www.jpryan.com/
> Lots of way-cool stuff.
> Also, she teaches classes through Penny's website (which is how I came
> into contact with her).  If you're interested, click on this:
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com/
> and then go to the instructors, and then to JP Ryan....she's got a
> couple of classes coming up later this year.  One is on the ladies'
> caraco jacket, and the other is on the pet-en-l'air (aka Robe a la
> Francaise).  Completely yummy looking.
> --Sue



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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 05:41:18 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, Mara, I love the back of the jacket!!!  I found your original message.

I was thinking last night that I would love a men's justaucorp coat to wear
for everyday.  I just love that style.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headcoverings...was 14th Century Cote and Gown
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 03:45:56 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Heather <moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net> wrote:
> and...well... now that I'm making a veil, I thought
> I just needed a new gown to go with it....;-)
> Moira

Of course you do!  Absolutely! You need it and you
deserve it!  Ok, now it's your turn to tell me that I
clearly _need_ a (mundane)cobalt blue silk blouse to
wear with my new hair sticks: carved fake ivory with
cobalt blue glass beads.

By the way, I too am getting a new veil.  I bought a
lovely piece of China silk...new veil for me, new veil
for Lady Elizabeth (the doll with more garb than me)
and enough left over for a couple of squares.  I am
constructing an all-white-and-ivory
silk-and-lace-patchwork skirt for a baby's christening
gown.  No particular baby in mind -- I just love
making baby clothes and then I search for someone to
sell them to or donate them to charity. (My 3 kids are
done reproducing!)  I'm sure other Mad Seamstresses
understand. ;-)  However,(back to veils) my "Achilles'
heel" as a seamstress is the rolled hem.  Can anyone
direct me to a site which shows clear directions? 
(It's a lot like cooking.  I think I'm really good,
but then there will be some ridiculously simple thing
I can't do:  I can make a Beef Wellington to bring
tears to the angels, but I make the worst fried
chicken in the Western World...makes me feel like a
total failure as an American!)

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
"If this is coffee, please bring me some tea.  But if
this is tea, why then please bring me some coffee."
--Abraham Lincoln

__________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Foot shape study
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Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 00:57:56 +1300
Status: RO

> >>I have 4 toes all the same length, then this poor little smidge of a
> >>little toe. Buying shoes is fun...
> >>
> >Buying shoes is the bane of my existence!  Have you found any types that
> >actually fit feet like ours?

me too! I have .. hmm. not really little, not really short.. just not not
long enough feet;) Size 7 1/2 multiples and I;m 5'7".. and they only widen
at the base of the toes, very high instep, highish arches and a big toe that
is nearly 1cm longer than the longest little toe and then the next toe is
set back, then the next from that.. until you get to the teeeny little toe
that pokes out of sandles it's set so far back.

Good shape for dancing though;)

michaela

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Subject: [h-cost] Sort of OT:PHantom Costume RIng updated
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Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 01:17:21 +1300
Status: RO

Hello all. Phantom of the Opera is set in the 1880s, and the ALW musical
uses historical costumes, but in a modern way.. hence the slight OT.

I just uploaded a completely new overhauled Phantom Costume Resourses page,
incorporating The Masque, the costume web ring I run.
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/phantom/index.htm
All links just recently checked by me, but a few probably slipped through
the net on the Miscellaneous page, and I need to tidy a bit here and there.
The links are primarily to pages of recreations of the costumes, but I do
have a list of links to actually costumes worn in the show. Two exhibitions
so far and the odd "costume in the background" pics.
I know I do not have all the sites out there, so if I have missed you,
please email me at with the site and what it is about. I will continue to
search myself, but the job will be so much easier if you let me know.

I'm thinking of extending it to incorporate Moulin Rouge costumes.. being
equally theatrical and parallel to Phantom (Paris, Belle Epoque, singers,
love triangle type situation...) it wouldn't be to the full extent, and not
a poor cousin to the Phantom aspect, but a sister ring. Anyone interested?

Also of course really good sites on 1880s fashion would be a big help. I'm
working on that section, but will upload it later.. what is there now is
what most people using the web ring are wanting:)

michaela
http://recital.tripod.com/costume/phantom.htm

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 31 08:20:34 2002
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 07:00:46 -0700
Status: RO

I agree.  It'd work beautifully as a kind of funky blazer/jacket
thing...you could wear over all sorts of modern clothing.
--Sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Oh, Mara, I love the back of the jacket!!!  I found your original message.
> 
> I was thinking last night that I would love a men's justaucorp coat to wear
> for everyday.  I just love that style.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 07:03:52 -0700
Status: RO

I'm almost as far from the UK as one can get, and still be in the U.S.
(Missoula, in NW Montana, a couple hours south of the Canadian border),
and I've heard it used here, although not commonly.
--sue

Heather wrote:
> 
> OOC, where in the US is it used?  I've only heard it said by people from the
> UK as far as I can remember.
> Moira
> 
> > > This isn't specifically Irish - "wonky" is a British Isles colloquialism
> for "faulty" or "lopsided",  and, as others have pointed out, "fringe" (in
> the singular) is the normal term here and in Australia.
> >
> > "Wonky" is also used in the US.
> >
> > --Charlene
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 31 09:27:54 2002
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 07:03:04 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> After a brief hiatus from eBay, I just listed a new item today. If
> interested please check it out/tell your friends. I am a new eBayer
> and trying to build up my rating. I still have quite a way to go.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1698768692
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> mirv


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
http://www.geocities.com/mirv_sewing/
http://www.darkthreads.com/
Adventure can be real happiness.--Fortune Cookie

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:36:58 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> At 08:13 AM 1/21/02 -0700, you wrote:
> >Baked beans? For breakfast? How completely _weird_ <ggg>
> >--Sue, refraining from saying "eeeuuuuuw"...... (although the
> >tomatoes and mushrooms sound nummy ;-)
> >
>  Odd, why would the time of day affect the taste of food?

I dunno... I'm in the likes baked beans for breakfast, but only on 
buttered toast, not on the plate with the fry-up where they make the 
chips(that's fries to the Americans ofn the list) soggy and inedible, 
but whilst I like Branflakes(A breakfast cerial) at most times of day 
they taste much better in the middle of the night.

Food can be appealing when combined or not combined with 
different things - jelly (or jello, I think Americans call it, what you call 
"jelly", we call "jam" in England) and ice-cream, for instnace.  I'm 
fond of both, but find I can't eat them if they've both been put 
together in the same bowl - it's just *revolting* served like that.  So I 
can happily accept that food tastes different to particular people at 
different times of day.  Some people think my fondness for re-
heated left-over beef-curry sandwitches for breakfast is peculiar, 
but would happily help me eat them at lunch or supper time, others 
would happily join me eating them at breakfast, others refuse to 
have anything to do with them at any time even if they ordinarily 
*like* curry.

Teddy
(lifelong "awkward bugger" when it comes to food.  If it doesn't have 
4 legs and run around a farmyard, field or piece of woodland, it's 
not likely to be considered edible by me)
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 10:57:15 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 31/1/02 9:43:12 AM, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:

<< "jelly", we call "jam" in England >>

Speaking of which, (a) we have jam, jelly and preserves not to mention 
conserves compotes and (b) what's the American equivelant of a "jam tart"? 
I've heard of them but keep getting this mental image that is totally 
unappetizing.
Thanks,
Lady G
Who ate peanut butter and jelly/jam sandwiches on 3 plates until she hit 
school age.
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:59:04 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> So Teddy, who is who in the photos?

I'm the one in the long red cloak witht he "ermine" shoulder-cape 
and the crown on my head....<G>

Tom is the bishop (wearing the mitre) putting the crown there.  
Gillian is the lady in the blue tunic with yellow undertunic, her 
daughter Kethry is the little girl in the black and silver gown (which I 
see she had unfastened up the front of the bodice and not 
refastened for the photos (poor girl thought it was all over when the 
ceremony finished and wanted to get changed into a lighter dress, 
then found out about the photo session...<G>)  I didn't finish the 
farthingale to go under it so she wore it without.

Liss ais the girl in the green Elizabethan with red forepart and 
undersleeves that her husband Phil (green velvet doublet hodling 
baby Alex) made her last year just as she became pregnant so this 
is her first wearing of the finished outfit....  As she lost weight rather 
than gaining it while pregnant and hasn't gained it back since, it's 
now too big for her (as you can see by the looseness of the bodice) 
 Phil had time to take in the corset but not the bodice.

Erm.... I'm also the one with the stupid grin, in the glasses wearing 
the long green houpellande with the dagged sleeves and displaying 
a badly ripped shirtsleeve.

Karen Bergquist and Danielle Nunn Weinberg are the girls draped 
either side of Raedwulf, danielle in the kirtle she made between 
arriving at my house and us setting out for the event,  Karen in one 
of the several variations on her Elizabethan  that she managed to 
pack (including farthingale and accessories) in an increadibly small 
vacuume-shrunk bag to bring over from Chicago.

Any others you wnat to know about give details and I'll answer if I 
can....

Teddy
(briefly skipping ahead to more recent messages rather than wait 
the few weeks it might take to catch up on the backlog)

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] First few pictures of Teddy's Coronation
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 16:09:40 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Make that the "Coronation - Phil" folder. The one labelled "Coronation
> - Jane", even when filled, will be much less garb-relevant.

Hey Jane!

When did you subscribe to h-costume?

BTW, folks, Jane's in some of the pictures too - look in the crowd 
around me on the throne.  Jane, our Alderman, is the one in the 
dgged-edged blue, pink and grey houpellande with light yellow 
undergown showing in the neckline and sleeves.... she's wearing a 
truncated henin and wired veil... and she had an active and tiring 
weekend despite not being well.  The Coronation feast on Saturday 
night was sumptuous and superb.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Toddler Tunics
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 16:34:14 +0000 (GMT)
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> A friend's son (who must be about 14 now) came to events in skirts
> until he was around four or five and "old enough" to have trunk-hose
> and doublets.... His outgrwn stuff was used by his little sister
> (including his first skirted doublet which had anels of contrasting
> fabric added like guards around the bottom to make them full-length
> skirts on her...<g>)
> 
> I've not really seen him since they moved away when he was 
> seven, but I don't think it's done him any harm to be properly 
> dressed for events as a toddler.  He's coming to my coronation at the
> weekend, and I'm really looking forward to seeing what sort of a
> teenagers he and his sister have become.

Well, you cn see them both in the photos I previously posted the 
URL for. - The ones of me with all the children sitting in front have 
these two at the left hand side of the picture wearing (and this was 
the big surprizfor me) their parents' old garb, now that they've 
grown enough to fit in it!

It was so great to see them aagain and they said they would nag 
their mother into coming to more events again.

Yaaaay!

Teddy
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In a message dated 1/31/02 10:59:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
LadyGryphon@aol.com writes:


> Lady G
> Who ate peanut butter and jelly/jam sandwiches on 3 plates until she hit 
> school age.
> 
       And who now eats a totally disgusting thing called nutter butters made 
with marshmallow whip and peanut butter.  Makes my teeth hurt to think about 
it.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/31/02 10:59:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, LadyGryphon@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Lady G
<BR>Who ate peanut butter and jelly/jam sandwiches on 3 plates until she hit 
<BR>school age.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;And who now eats a totally disgusting thing called nutter butters made with marshmallow whip and peanut butter. &nbsp;Makes my teeth hurt to think about it.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 31/1/02 11:00:55 AM, LalahTT@aol.com writes:

<< And who now eats a totally disgusting thing called nutter butters made 
with marshmallow whip and peanut butter >>

That's FlufferNutter's and They are Yummiest! AND I don't even use a plate 
for them because they don't last long enough to use one!
Grinningly,
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was: Head-coverings]
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:13:00 -0600
Status: RO

Heather wrote:
 
> OOC, where in the US is it used?  I've only heard it said by people from the
> UK as far as I can remember.
> Moira

I was raised in South Carolina and have lived in Maine and Texas.  Not
sure where I picked it up.  My friends in Texas know the term.

--Charlene

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In a message dated 1/31/02 12:06:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
LadyGryphon@aol.com writes:


> That's FlufferNutter's 

       Whatever -- they still sound like they would glue my mouth shut (not a 
bad idea at that).

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 1/31/02 12:06:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, LadyGryphon@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">That's FlufferNutter's </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Whatever -- they still sound like they would glue my mouth shut (not a bad idea at that).
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:16:09 -0600
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LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> conserves compotes and (b) what's the American equivelant of a "jam tart"?
> I've heard of them but keep getting this mental image that is totally
> unappetizing.

Out of curiosity, I did a quick search at Google.  The first hit was a
Greek recipe site.  :)

http://www.greekcuisine.com/new/detail.html?RecipeID=126

--Charlene

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In a message dated 31/1/02 11:15:39 AM, LalahTT@aol.com writes:

<< they still sound like they would glue my mouth shut >>

Just so long as they don't glue your fingers together >snicker<
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 09:24:41 -0800
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At 11:13 AM 01/31/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Heather wrote:
> 
>> OOC, where in the US is it used?  I've only heard it said by people from the
>> UK as far as I can remember.
>>

I use it, but I may have picked it up from British movies, books, or
possibly from our British list members.

Anyway, it's a great and useful word.  

Margo


Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
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At 11:16 AM 01/31/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
>
>> conserves compotes and (b) what's the American equivelant of a "jam tart"?

I've made tarts using a sweetened pie crust shell, with strawberry jam
filling.  they're yummy.  You know those Perrridge Farm fruit filled
cookies?  Like that!

Margo


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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 12:35:33 EST
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In a message dated 31/1/02 11:33:11 AM, Margo@margospatterns.com writes:

<<  You know those Perrridge Farm fruit filled
cookies?  Like that! >>

Oh now I see. I just had this mental image of a grape jelly pie and the 
resultant goo. EWWWW! Melted jelly soaked crust glued to the pie pan. So 
they're more like tarts than pie. I can deal with that.
Thanks,
Lady G
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In a message dated 1/31/2002 8:57:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
mooncat@in-tch.com writes:


> I agree.  It'd work beautifully as a kind of funky blazer/jacket
> thing...you could wear over all sorts of modern clothing.
> 

Ahhhhh....I remember about a million years ago [well, 1979] a beautiful girl 
in the drama department of my college, Julie, used to borrow things from us 
costume majors to wear out on the town. She was particularly fond [as was I] 
of a mid 1890s bodice with jeans. The fancy fabrics, ornaments and 
leg-o-mutton sleeves looks great with the "casual" jeans. Sorta anticipating 
Versaci [did I spell his name right?] evening wear.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/31/2002 8:57:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I agree. &nbsp;It'd work beautifully as a kind of funky blazer/jacket
<BR>thing...you could wear over all sorts of modern clothing.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Ahhhhh....I remember about a million years ago [well, 1979] a beautiful girl in the drama department of my college, Julie, used to borrow things from us costume majors to wear out on the town. She was particularly fond [as was I] of a mid 1890s bodice with jeans. The fancy fabrics, ornaments and leg-o-mutton sleeves looks great with the "casual" jeans. Sorta anticipating Versaci [did I spell his name right?] evening wear.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:11:54 +0000 (GMT)
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> I think much of it is is based on the chakras.Yellow is the color
> of your solar plexus chakra and is for happines, growth optimism,
> etc. people who are depressed would be afriad or disinclined
> towards yellow in particular. Yellow is good for curiosity,
> learning, getting your juices going both learning and stomach. 

Sorry Deb, but I think that' a load of dingo's kidneys.

I've always worn yellow, even back int he bad old days when I was 
depressed to the point of attempting suicide.

Teddy

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In a message dated 1/31/2002 1:15:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:


> 

Of course, she looked better in it than I did.


Badda-bing!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 1/31/2002 1:15:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">She was particularly fond [as was I] of a mid 1890s bodice with jeans. </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Of course, she looked better in it than I did.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Badda-bing!</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colour test thingy...
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> Well Teddy....... did you take the Teddy Fan Club Color Test?  We
> had so much fun with it on the list? 

So I'm just getting to see.... I took it and it was completely wrong 
about me (and the choise of shades was awful)



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, King of the Far-Isles, part-time Knave, Creature of
air and darkness, and Hairdresser of Death apparently!)
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 12:53:35 -0600
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I was searching for an article at NPR's website and came across this: 
http://www.npr.org/programs/atc/newyorkworks/newyorkworks.html

It's a series on vanishing jobs in New York.  They interviewed a lady
whose family has been in the undergarmet business since the late 19th
century.

--Charlene

-- 
A house without books is like a room without windows.  -- Horace Mann
=====
Free Book Searches (out-of-print, hard-to-find, foreign, used, new) -
mailto:findbook@flash.net
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:59:18
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A friend was telling me that something about wool damages cotton? She was 
saying that she has a wool garment where certain sections of the lining are 
linen, and others are cotton. The linen looks brand new, while the cotton is 
almost completely destroyed. While asking some "local experts", she was told 
that something in the wool damages the cotton fibers.

Has anyone else had experience with this?

Thanks in advance,

Mary/Katerine

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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 14:10:11 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 31/1/02 12:54:48 PM, charlene@flash.net writes:

<< They interviewed a lady whose family has been in the undergarmet business 
since the late 19th century. >>

Lucille's out on LI is still there and she does outstanding work. She made or 
adjusted a dozen bras for me over the 5 years I was out there. Her daughter 
Dorothy is her partner and Dot's daughter Sara is learning the trade from Mom 
and Grandma. Corsetiers beat bra shops hands down. It's had to believe 
(especially in NY) that real bra fitters/makers are dying out. I sent so many 
friends (both male and female) out there I used to get a discount on all the 
work they did.
On a side note-does anyone know where you can get Felina bras (Gabrielle 
prefered) for under $38 each? They are the closest to the custom jobs I've 
been able to find and they actually LAST.
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 14:37:48 -0500
Status: RO

MMMM, even better than peanut butter and banana sandwich!
Moira
who grew up hating pb&j, but loves plain peanut butter sandwiches.

> << And who now eats a totally disgusting thing called nutter butters made
> with marshmallow whip and peanut butter >>
>
> That's FlufferNutter's and They are Yummiest! AND I don't even use a plate
> for them because they don't last long enough to use one!
> Grinningly,
> Lady G


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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 19:32:38 GMT
Status: RO

On Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:59:18, the following was written in this
electric book by "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>:

>A friend was telling me that something about wool damages cotton? She was 
>saying that she has a wool garment where certain sections of the lining are 
>linen, and others are cotton. The linen looks brand new, while the cotton is 
>almost completely destroyed. While asking some "local experts", she was told 
>that something in the wool damages the cotton fibers.

This sounds like a pile of ... misinformation. Really, it's a yes and
no thing.

Cotton's fibers are short, so it handles wear differently than linen.
It will wear out faster, for one thing. The only thing I can think of
that would be specifically injurious to cotton about wool is that wool
is (very) slightly acidic, and is resistant to acidic environments.
The human body is an acidic environment. Cotton clothes usually last
as long as they do precisely because we wash them and remove the
acidic sweat (and any sharp-edged dust particles) before it has a
chance to do serious damage. 

My guess, without being able to look at the garment to see where the
damage is, is that the cotton simply dissolved after long exposure to
sweat vapor from being worn. The linen may simply be in the wrong
place to have had enough contact to cause visible damage - I'm
guessing that the cotton was used to line the sleeves and upper back.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
"We went out with both lips blazing, and a pen in either 
hand..." - the Flash Girls
        }{ http://www.chimericalgirl.net }{
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 20:19:40 -0000
Status: RO

On 31 Jan 2002 at 16:09, Teddy wrote:

> Hey Jane!
> When did you subscribe to h-costume?

About a week ago, I think. Various people, including you and Marion, kept 
recommending it. I'm mainly lurking and learning and being impressed.

> BTW, folks, Jane's in some of the pictures too - look in the crowd 
> around me on the throne.  

On the extreme RH edge of a few, I think. I've got a  web page about how I tried to 
make it, mainly so Teddy could look and advise, I'll have to bring it up to date with the 
finished article.

>  The Coronation feast on Saturday  night was sumptuous and superb.

Even the few bits of it cooked by me :)
No, I did about half the cooking and all the planning. If you want to know things about 
medieval food, I'll try to help. That's the area where I sometimes know what I'm on 
about. On costuming matters, I'll carry on lurking.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was: Head-coverings]
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 12:21:02 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I know it from North Carolina and 'wonky' is certainly in heavy use in California.

.heather.meadows.


> Heather wrote:
>  
> > OOC, where in the US is it used?  I've only heard it said by people from the
> > UK as far as I can remember.
> > Moira
> 
> I was raised in South Carolina and have lived in Maine and Texas.  Not
> sure where I picked it up.  My friends in Texas know the term.
> 
> --Charlene
> 
> -- 
> A house without books is like a room without windows.  -- Horace Mann
> =====
> Free Book Searches (out-of-print, hard-to-find, foreign, used, new) -
> mailto:findbook@flash.net
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was: Head-coverings]
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 12:42:32 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

And I've heard and used it in the Midwest.

-Angela

--- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:
> I know it from North Carolina and 'wonky' is
> certainly in heavy use in California.
> 
> .heather.meadows.
> 
> 
> > Heather wrote:
> >  
> > > OOC, where in the US is it used?  I've only
> heard it said by people from the
> > > UK as far as I can remember.
> > > Moira
> > 
> > I was raised in South Carolina and have lived in
> Maine and Texas.  Not
> > sure where I picked it up.  My friends in Texas
> know the term.
> > 
> > --Charlene
> > 
> > -- 
> > A house without books is like a room without
> windows.  -- Horace Mann
> > =====
> > Free Book Searches (out-of-print, hard-to-find,
> foreign, used, new) -
> > mailto:findbook@flash.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 12:41:48 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:
> I know it from North Carolina and 'wonky' is
> certainly in heavy use in California.

It is?????

Joan Hall (born & raised in California)
"If this is coffee, please bring me some tea.  But if
this is tea, why then please bring me some coffee."
--Abraham Lincoln, to a waitress

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was: Head-coverings]
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 20:46:41 GMT
Status: RO

On Thu, 31 Jan 2002 12:41:48 -0800 (PST), the following was written in
this electric book by Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>:

>
>--- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:
>> I know it from North Carolina and 'wonky' is
>> certainly in heavy use in California.
>
>It is?????

Yes, in the SF bay area, for certain. Mostly among 20- and
30-somethings raised on PBS, though.

Maura
---chimericalgirl@attbi.com-Goddess of Last Minute Miracles---
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seriously OT British
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 12:55:26 -0800
Status: RO


>So I
>can happily accept that food tastes different to particular people at
>different times of day.  Some people think my fondness for re-
>heated left-over beef-curry sandwitches for breakfast is peculiar,
>but would happily help me eat them at lunch or supper time, others
>would happily join me eating them at breakfast, others refuse to
>have anything to do with them at any time even if they ordinarily
>*like* curry.

Leftover cold pizza is the BEST breakfast.  I had cravings for it when I 
was pregnant, but nobody noticed because I always used to have cravings for 
it and still do.


Kayta
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 16:16:19 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 31/1/02 1:36:30 PM, moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net writes:
<< peanut butter and banana sandwich >>
The ones that always (excuse the phrasing) seems to gross people out the most 
are peanut butter and cheese or peanut butter and onion (thin slices of 
Bermuda or a flat huge purple onion). Either one of which is yummy.
Obligitory costume content so people don't kick us onto the cooking list, 
just put 9 yards of lovely trim around the hem of a slate moire Tudor and now 
my hubby's bothering me for a tunic with the trim on it. I'm only waiting to 
see how far up the nice list he can get before this weekend. hmmmmm is that 
extortion or blackmail?
Lady G
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:16:28 -0600
Status: RO

I wish I could handle bananas...my dad on the other hand is
quiet fond of Peanut Butter/banana/mayonase sandwiches.

*Cring/gag*
Katie

Heather wrote:

> MMMM, even better than peanut butter and banana sandwich!
> Moira
> who grew up hating pb&j, but loves plain peanut butter sandwiches.
> 


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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:21:26 -0600
Status: RO

*snickers* My cravings where: Hot Dogs from "The Great American
Hot Dog Company" (I lived in Huntington Beach CA at the time),
and fudge bars (ice cream) with a side of pickled jalapenos.
Slight variation of "pickles and ice cream", but it countes!

*ROFL*
Katie

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
>
> Leftover cold pizza is the BEST breakfast.  I had cravings for it when I 
> was pregnant, but nobody noticed because I always used to have cravings 
> for it and still do.
> 
> 


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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was: Head-coverings]
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:33:29 -0500
Status: RO

My husband is from Toronto and uses the phrase often.  I am from Pittsburgh,
PA and never heard it until I met my husband.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Joan Garner
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 3:42 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dublin slang [was: Head-coverings]



--- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:
> I know it from North Carolina and 'wonky' is
> certainly in heavy use in California.

It is?????

Joan Hall (born & raised in California)
"If this is coffee, please bring me some tea.  But if
this is tea, why then please bring me some coffee."
--Abraham Lincoln, to a waitress

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:31:54 -0500
Status: RO

<html>
<blockquote type=cite cite>
<dl>
<dd>Henk wrote:</blockquote>
</dl><blockquote><blockquote type=cite cite>
<dl>
<dd>What strikes me the most, however, after having seen the whole
line-up of the West-Kingdom's 12th Night revels, is that all you people
look so 'terribly' &lt;g&gt; American. I honestly don't know if it's the
faces, the hair or what, but I could not ever confuse you guys with
anybody else but US citizens. Ant ideas why this is, List?</blockquote>
</dl>I think it's the hairstyles, and the makeup on the women.&nbsp; I
can usually tell if I'm looking at American or British (or other
European) TV, even with the sound off, just from the hairstyles and
makeup, though the clothing is often a clue, too.<br>
<br>
-- Mara<br>
<br>
<BR>
</html>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: "Goth" jewelry
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:35:43 -0500
Status: RO

(snort) Exactly!
There was a humor thing going around a while ago about how you can tell
someone is a pagan; one of the clues is the tons of bad silver jewelry.
Guess the same thing applies to Goths.  "Let's be different from everyone
else, and all look alike."  Do Goths ever outgrow that look?  What happens
to ex-Goths?  I know what happens to ex-Punks, since I have a few friends
who were punks as teens, but...

-- Mara

At 12:32 PM 01/29/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>The original "look" ends up being similar to the original 
>descriptions of Magrat Garlick in _Weird Sisters_.
>
>Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: Green 18th c. jacket
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 21:24:03 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks!  Yes, I love the style of the back, too.  I'm gonna have to make
another one in linen for summer wear...  and am making up a man's
justaucorps for my hubby.  I've thought about making one for myself, too...
 Would need to re-draft it, of course.  I have some dark blue melton that
I'm going to make up as a lady's riding habit jacket, one of these years.

-- Mara


At 05:41 AM 01/31/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Oh, Mara, I love the back of the jacket!!!  I found your original message.
>
>I was thinking last night that I would love a men's justaucorp coat to wear
>for everyday.  I just love that style.
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jan 31 21:01:37 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Edge finishing, 11th-12th c.?
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 21:45:47 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Can anyone point me to any solid evidence of stitches/methods used to
finish edges of wool garments in late 11th or 12th century Norman
(French/English) clothing? I'd be interested in any archaeological data
that comes close to this place and time.

I feel pretty secure on the range of methods for 14th century, but that's
primarily from the Museum of London book and other sources that don't
reach back to 11th/12th, IIRC. So, I don't know if (for example) turning
once and binding with a strip of silk would be appropriate; I suspect not,
primarily because silk was less commonly available then compared with
later. Also, the earlier garments were likely not lined, whereas lining
was much more likely to be the norm for body garments in the 14th c., and
that affects edge finishes too.

The St. Louis shirt is closer in time, but it's linen (and God knows I
could never replicate the bound seams I saw on the garment ... incredibly
fine work).

The wool is well-fulled and does not tend to fray.  My inclination is to
fold the edge over once and do a running stitch and/or a widely spaced
buttonhole stitch (hmm, is that called blanket stitch? I forget).  For
seams throughout the body, I am just opening and doing a running stitch
parallel to the seam line to hold the seam allowances down on either side.
But I'm stumped for neck and cuff edges. I'm sure there's something out
there giving us hints on edge finishes for this period, but I don't know
where to put my hands on it right off.

Many thanks to anyone with a clue.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  14th century Cote and Gown
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 22:17:57 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


>             Henk wrote:
> 
>                         What strikes me the most, however,
>                         after having seen the whole line-up
>                         of the West-Kingdom's 12th Night
>                         revels, is that all you people look
>                         so 'terribly' <g> American. I
>                         honestly don't know if it's the
>                         faces, the hair or what, but I could
>                         not ever confuse you guys with
>                         anybody else but US citizens. Ant
>                         ideas why this is, List?

Mara replied:

>                   I think it's the hairstyles, and the makeup on
>                   the women.  I can usually tell if I'm looking at
>                   American or British (or other European) TV, even
>                   with the sound off, just from the hairstyles and
>                   makeup, though the clothing is often a clue, too.

In addition to the above, I think much has to do with ethnic type, which
affects facial shape, body shape, coloring, and much more. America is a
hodgepodge of ethnic types; you get some people who have the distinct look
of some particular heritage, but the range of heritages is vast, and on
top of that there's a lot of mixing. By comparison, European populations
are more homogeneous. I am not saying there is no variation and no mixing,
but there is a typical visual "look" for many nationalities that is
missing among Americans. So, when a European looks at a group of
Americans, the heterogeneity of the group can be enough to make the group
look non-European -- but because there isn't a specific characteristic in
common, the difference is hard to put a finger on.

Another factor -- and I'm guessing here, not having looked over the site
myself -- may be weight or body size. In traveling (and shopping!) in
Europe, I have often been struck by the overall smaller body size of
Europeans and the relative rareness of overweight. Americans seem to have
a larger proportion of larger people, and the difference is evident in
degree as well as number. For no clear reason (and I do not wish to
speculate), I have found this particularly apparent in the SCA (and in
certain similar groups, such as American sf fandom). 

I've had to take this into account as I teach costuming, since most
medieval constructions were designed around the assumption of a generally
slimmer body size and smaller bone structure. For instance, if you want to
use period fabric widths, you'll run into trouble if your body is too wide
for that fabric width to accommodate in the traditional number of panels.
And some fitting methods that work just fine with a medievally
average-sized woman don't work on large women.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 22:14:07 -0500
Status: RO

Hey, Mara... lets start a new fashion craze with the justaucorp coat!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: "Massaria dC" <massaria@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: "Goth" jewelry
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Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 04:38:29 +0000
Status: RO

>Guess the same thing applies to Goths.  "Let's be different from >everyone 
>else, and all look alike."

Goths are well aware of this part of there subculture, at least the
ones who don't take it too seriously.

>Do Goths ever outgrow that look?  What happens
>to ex-Goths?

I am an "ex-goth", though I still have blue hair even now, I don't dress as 
a goth any more. All my friends are pretty much now ex-goths as well, in 
that they don't really dress as goths anymore. However, even though all the 
make-up is gone, and the jewellery that you describe, most of us still have 
a wardrobe of black, burgundy and purple. One of my ex-boyfriends still goes 
to clubs but he got himself a t-shirt which has SOG on the front standing 
for "Sad Old Goth" as this pretty much how he views still being a goth in 
your 30's

Having said this I know people in their late 40's who still dress as goths, 
but most people tend to stop in my experience.

Massaria

Or were you talking about people who dress in furs and horns trying to 
recreate the original Goths of late antiquity? - I know a few of them too, 
who also "grew-up" and stopped dressing that way ;-}

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Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 00:13:05 -0500
Status: RO

Okay, I stand corrected now. ;-)
Moira
-----
> I know it from North Carolina and 'wonky' is certainly in heavy use in
California.
>
> .heather.meadows.


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Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 00:17:33 -0500
Status: RO

always better than a twinkie-weiner sandwich. ;-}
Moira
who knew someone who only ate peanut butter and mustard sandwiches.;-p

> *snickers* My cravings where: Hot Dogs from "The Great American
> Hot Dog Company" (I lived in Huntington Beach CA at the time),
> and fudge bars (ice cream) with a side of pickled jalapenos.
> Slight variation of "pickles and ice cream", but it countes!


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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 17:56:39 -0800
Status: RO

Oops - forgot the costume content:  When I was a couple of days before my 
older daughter's due date, I went dancing.  I wore one of those 1801-ish 
high waisted things, engineered so that I didn't look pregnant, only very 
large.  I managed to get the skirt to hang straight down the front over the 
kid inside, without bulging.  I think we went out for pizza just 
beforehand, so I was able to have cold pizza for breakfast the next day.

An odd thing happens to some women just about a week before the baby 
arrives - they get a house-cleaning fit.  I think it has something to do 
with a nesting impulse.  Anyway, about a week before the aforementioned kid 
was actually born I had the earth-shattering thought that the kid didn't 
have anything to wear for Ren. Faire (clean house?  Me??).  So I spent the 
next few days feverishly sewing Ren-baby clothes (cap, shoes, shirt, and 
Ren. over-gown with leading strings).  The kid was 4 days late from her 
official due date.

>*snickers* My cravings where: Hot Dogs from "The Great American
>Hot Dog Company" (I lived in Huntington Beach CA at the time),
>and fudge bars (ice cream) with a side of pickled jalapenos.
>Slight variation of "pickles and ice cream", but it countes!
>
>*ROFL*
>Katie
>
>Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>
>>
>>Leftover cold pizza is the BEST breakfast.  I had cravings for it when I 
>>was pregnant, but nobody noticed because I always used to have cravings 
>>for it and still do.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 21:42:52 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:35 AM -0500 1/30/02, Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:
>Do Goths ever outgrow that look?  What happens
>to ex-Goths?  I know what happens to ex-Punks, since I have a few friends
>who were punks as teens, but...

I overheard someone talking not too long ago about a Goth couple who 
had just had their first baby and had asked [whoever was talking] 
about making them some baby clothes. In black. <g>
-- 
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O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 22:37:57 -0800
Status: RO


>Or were you talking about people who dress in furs and horns trying to 
>recreate the original Goths of late antiquity? - I know a few of them too, 
>who also "grew-up" and stopped dressing that way ;-}


Oh, you mean the bunny-fur Barbarians, of the 'two frightened squirrels' 
school of costuming?


Kayta
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: wearing black (was Re: [h-cost] OT: "Goth" jewelry
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 22:58:34 -0800
Status: RO


>>Do Goths ever outgrow that look?  What happens
>>to ex-Goths?  I know what happens to ex-Punks, since I have a few friends
>>who were punks as teens, but...
>
>I overheard someone talking not too long ago about a Goth couple who had 
>just had their first baby and had asked [whoever was talking] about making 
>them some baby clothes. In black. <g>

I am not a Goth, nor are my kids, but one of them has always liked black as 
her favourite colour - since she was only a few years old.  Black - it's 
not just for Mourning anymore.

OCC:  What colour is for mourning these days, since Goths and Punks use 
black for everyday-wear?  When did black become OK to wear during the day?

Kayta
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