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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian bedspreads (block-printed fabrics for
  gowns)
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 22:46:30 -0800
Status: RO

I've seen some yardage like this, without the borders, at nicer fabric 
stores and quilt places.  'Stone Mountain and Daughters' in Berkeley has 
them, as does 'Mendel's Far-Out Fabrics' in San Francisco (in The 
Haight).  The yardage is a finer weave (shirt-weight) than the bedspreads 
usually are.

>I just spent way too much time online searching for block-printed textiles
>suitable for 18th c. gowns.  Finally turned this up:
>
>http://www.madturban.com/
>
>Some of them aren't quite accurate, but there are a few that are dead-on.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 06:36:13 -0500
Status: RO


I've always wondered if there was any way to remove the rubber backing. Has
anyone ever tried to?
laurie

> Oh cool! I have those exact same curtains in my stash! Ha, I got mine before
> I even knew about Teddy, so does that make me an "orangehead" too? Like you,
> I have NO idea what to do with them, especially since they have that yucky
> rubber backing, but I remember I just HAD to bring them home. I'm in the
> process of cleaning up my sewing/fabric/craft rooms, so they may have to
> find another home.  Believe it or not, I also have the black/silver version
> of the same pattern.
> 
> Hello, my name is Linda, and I'm a fabriholic......<g>
> Virginia Beach, Va USA
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Linda J. Thompson" <
> Subject: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sueded and "felted" silk
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 08:59:02 -0500
Status: RO


Robin:

I asked a friend who spins silk about your two fabrics, and here are her
responses. (FYI: She is doing a lot of research on silk spinning, and does
not weave.)

First: The "felted" silk. My friend says that the commercial silk industry
does all kinds of things to fabrics to prepare them for market, and that you
probably washed out the sizing and perhaps other chemicals that controlled
the fibers, allowing them to do what they want. Spun silk is made up of
"short" fibers, which she says are longer than wool fibers but still
relatively short, all spun together. The ends of the silk fibers stick out
just like they do in spun wool, and depending on the quality of the silk
that's spun to begin with, they will behave different ways when allowed to.
Sizing, heat rolling, and other commercial treatments make the spun silk
stay flat like reeled silk, which is silk fibers reeled straight from the
cuccoon in immense lengths (up to 1/2 mile long!).

Second: Sueded silk, she says, would not have been used in the 12th century.
According to her, all silk in 12th century Europe was imported from
Byzantium, which wove all its fabrics from reeled silk. No matter what you
did with it, the little ends wouldn't fuzz up because there weren't any
little ends. Fabric made from reeled silk was and is strong, lustrous, and
very expensive. Spinning silk from short pieces made it less expensive,
because you could use the waste pieces (such as the bits on the outside of
the cuccoons). My friend said that by the time the silk industry had made it
to Italy in the 15th century, weavers were using waste silk for either the
warp or the weft (I can't remember which) and that this was a big
controversy and the subject of many statutes, because it was using
"inferior" fibers. So perhaps this kind of fabric might have been used in
and beyond the Renaissance. She didn't know whether it was or not, but it
could have been. 

FYI, my friend told me that no one is really sure how many silk cuccoons
were used at a time to make thread for weaving. One thread is so fine you
can barely see it, but some people say that as few as two were put together
for a weaving thread. Others do not agree.

Anyone who wants further information about sources, etc., please email me
privately and I will put you in touch with my knowledgeable friend. I just
posted what I thought would be of general interest --

Gail Finke


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sueded silk?
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 14:29:15 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> (Then she offered me a part-time job, as a fill-in two half-days a
> week, seeing as how I know more about their fabrics better than her
> other employees. Pay is standard retail, which is lousy, but the 50
> percent employee discount will more than balance *that* out, given the
> volume of shopping I do there. I do believe I'll say yes. My day job
> is a home business, so I can squeeze the time in. Who wouldn't want to
> spend 8 hours a week fondling fabric and get paid for it? The store
> inventory is at least half composed of linen, wool, and silk, and I'll
> get first pick of new stock.)

Woooohooo!  Go for it Robin!!!

Teddy
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Packthread stays, again
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 11:32:14 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Well, I stumbled across it at the Library of Congress, when I was there
researching something else (talk about serendipity)...

-- Mara


On Thu, 28 Feb 2002, Martha Kelly wrote:

> This sounds like a fascinating article.  Where would one find it?  Are the
> "Proceedings" published and available in libraries? I tried the research
> search engine of the NY Public Library to no avail, though I learned that
> the Mactaggarts did write a book about finishing harpsichord cases. I also
> found "Costume" which is the magazine of the Costume Society - but nothing
> about proceedings from conferences.
>
> By the way, I had this same problem with many of the articles in Vicki Betts
> wonderful Civil War Fashion Bibliography.  I tried NYPL and the library at
> FIT, but maybe I'm not looking in the right places.
>
> Martha
>
>
> In _Some Aspects of the Use of Non-Fashionable Stays, by P. and R. A.
> Mactaggart_, from _Strata of Society: Proceedings of the Seventh Annual
> Conference of the Costume Society_, April 6-8, 1973:
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Linen Sale
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:00:03 -0500
Status: RO


Hi everyone,

Not sure about the geographical representation on this list, but folks in
Mass., RI and CT might be interested to know that The Fabric Place has linen
on sale, 20% off.  They have a good selection and it's fine quality Irish
100% linen of all different weights and colors.  Reg. prices range from $8 -
$15 per yard, not great, but any deal is a deal.

They do have a website, www.fabricplace.com, but only one linen is listed
there and it's $18 a yard (supposedly a discount on a bulk/bolt purchase!).
Not sure if the website honors the monthly flyer sales but there is a link.

As a fabricaholic like most of the rest of you, I've been beaming all day
due to my morning linen purchase.

Laurie

P.S.  I'm interested in trading a My Double medium-size dress form (32"
waist at its smallest) for a small dress form.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sueded and "felted" silk
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:12:07 -0500
Status: RO

Gosh, it certainly is!  Thanks!

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va USA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gail & Scott Finke"
Subject: [h-cost] Re: sueded and "felted" silk


<snippage of really great silk description!>

> Anyone who wants further information about sources, etc., please email me
> privately and I will put you in touch with my knowledgeable friend. I just
> posted what I thought would be of general interest --
>
> Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:21:33 -0500
Status: RO

This is one of those questions that pops up regularly, and so far, I haven't
heard anyone come up with an easy, cheap, safe way to do it.  I've heard
some pretty industrious suggestions, including using lighter fluid and other
dangerous chemicals, but nothing that makes it really cost and safety
effective.  I do know that eventually, with repeated washing and drying on
hot, the rubber will begin to disintegrate and flake off.  Personally, if I
have to work that hard just to prepare my fabric before I even get to the
cutting stage, it just ain't worth it!  Maybe if I were doing some wild
fantasy costume, and the drapes were "it", I might go to all that trouble.
I have used the rubber-backed curtains for such things as ground-cloths and
backgrounds for wallhangings. I've also upholstered a couple of chairs with
them.

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va USA

----- Original Message -----
From: "randl" <randl@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too


>
> I've always wondered if there was any way to remove the rubber backing.
Has
> anyone ever tried to?
> laurie
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda and Orange.. riiiighhttt.
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 16:07:03 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:35 AM -0600 2/28/02, Linda J. Thompson wrote:
>That's what we all need to see Teddy.
>
>An enourmous 50 year old woman decked out in a neon orange 
>Elizabethan costume.  It would almost be as bad as me wearing a 
>waist cincher over a see through chemise.. (Gawd I hate that when it 
>shows up at fair)
>
>It would give small children and animals nightmares for years!
>LOL...
>
>Who knows maybe I will find the right client for it.  :)
>
>Now all I have to do is get the moth ball smell out of it.. why 
>anyone would store polyester fabric in moth balls. :(

We actually had one of those walking around the Northern California 
Renaissance Faire for a few years (as a paying customer, I hasten to 
add, _not_ a faire worker!). As far as I could tell, she wasn't doing 
it deliberately to be funny, either.

The effect was enhanced by the fact that her farthingale hoops were 
too big and she wore them straight from her waist -- no bumroll.

She looked for all the world like an animated traffic cone :-)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 16:07:03 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:35 AM -0600 2/28/02, Linda J. Thompson wrote:
>That's what we all need to see Teddy.
>
>An enourmous 50 year old woman decked out in a neon orange 
>Elizabethan costume.  It would almost be as bad as me wearing a 
>waist cincher over a see through chemise.. (Gawd I hate that when it 
>shows up at fair)
>
>It would give small children and animals nightmares for years!
>LOL...
>
>Who knows maybe I will find the right client for it.  :)
>
>Now all I have to do is get the moth ball smell out of it.. why 
>anyone would store polyester fabric in moth balls. :(

We actually had one of those walking around the Northern California 
Renaissance Faire for a few years (as a paying customer, I hasten to 
add, _not_ a faire worker!). As far as I could tell, she wasn't doing 
it deliberately to be funny, either.

The effect was enhanced by the fact that her farthingale hoops were 
too big and she wore them straight from her waist -- no bumroll.

She looked for all the world like an animated traffic cone :-)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 20:01:15 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 1/3/02 6:57:56 PM, claning@igc.org writes:

<< The effect was enhanced by the fact that her farthingale hoops were too 
big and she wore them straight from her waist -- no bumroll. >>

I saw something similar at Scarborough a couple of years ago. She was in the 
lasies room complaining that her hoops showed (at least she noticed, most 
don't). I told her I could fix it, dove upnder her skirt and reduced her 
hoops to a reasonable amount. The hoops disappeared and she went out with a 
smile.
Lady G
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Subject: [h-cost] Wool Satin
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 17:31:50 -0800
Status: RO

>>My local natural-fiber fabric store once carried some bolts of wool 
>>satin.  I could stand there and fondle them for hours, but the 
>>price was absolutely prohibitive (IIRC, around $50/yd).  Still, 
>>it's nice to know that someone, somewhere _does_ make the stuff.

When I was in Vancouver, BC at Christmastime, I found several colors 
of wool satin in a fabric store (I don't recall the name, but it was 
right next to the Indian fabric district, yet not an Indian fabric 
store. There was NOTHING any good in this store except for the wool 
satin!). With the exchange rate, I could have gotten some for about 
$20US/yd, I think. Maybe it was a little less. I didn't, and have 
been kicking myself ever since.

It was interesting stuff. It was definitely wool, but with a sheen 
I'm not used to seeing in wool.

I wonder if that store still has it.
-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: rubber backing, was Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 16:02:03 +1300
Status: RO



> This is one of those questions that pops up regularly, and so far, I
haven't
> heard anyone come up with an easy, cheap, safe way to do it.  I've heard
> some pretty industrious suggestions, including using lighter fluid and
other
> dangerous chemicals, but nothing that makes it really cost and safety
> effective.

I used some cotton-poly rubber backed stuff to make my blue dress
(http://recital.tripod.com/costume/blue.htm). The stove top dying process
made the rubber very soft, and when I hung it out to dry, where the rubber
backing was folded onti itself, became bonded and peeled relatively easily
from the fabric.
Maybe someone would test to see if they can do the same thing to a whole
piece of fabric? I simply lined it all and as the process managed to at
least thin the rubber elsewhere, it really was no hotter than any other
heavy fabric I've used:).

michaela


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 22:56:45 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 1 Mar 2002, Linda Rice wrote:

> I do know that eventually, with repeated washing and drying on hot,
> the rubber will begin to disintegrate and flake off.

I once had some rubber-backed stuff that was losing its backing, and I
found that without the backing, the material was dreadfully weak and limp.
It's not intended to exist without the backing, and was unusable when the
backing was removed.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool Satin
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 19:41:13 -0800
Status: RO

Was it Rokko fabrics on Fraser,  - a few blocks over from the main Indian
shopping district at Main and 49th?
> 
> When I was in Vancouver, BC at Christmastime, I found several colors
> of wool satin in a fabric store (I don't recall the name, but it was
> right next to the Indian fabric district, yet not an Indian fabric
> store. There was NOTHING any good in this store except for the wool
> satin!). With the exchange rate, I could have gotten some for about
> $20US/yd, I think. Maybe it was a little less. I didn't, and have
> been kicking myself ever since.
> 
> It was interesting stuff. It was definitely wool, but with a sheen
> I'm not used to seeing in wool.
> 
> I wonder if that store still has it.
> --
> -- Wendi

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Subject: [h-cost] Sueded silk? Working at Fabric Store
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 22:00:23 -0600
Status: RO

Robin,

welcome to the club.  I Started part-time at Fabric Wharehouse/Hacock's in
October of '97.  Friends of mine laughed when I said this was extra income
to help pay off some bills.  I now have a basement full of fabric, mostly
modern stuff, and not enough time to sew.  Oh, I'm a part-time supervisor
now;)

Genie

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sueded silk again
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 23:40:26 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


(Responding both the Kayta and Gail in the post)

On Thu, 28 Feb 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> ...I find conscious re-interpretation, as theatrical people often do,
> much preferable to pseudo-scholarly justification, so I'm
> over-sensitive to the possibility that the latter might have happened.
> 
> Two hot buttons, for me, are 'the tourists won't know the difference'
> (voiced by docents), and 'if they'd had it they'd have used it (so
> we'll use it)' (voiced by SCA members).  The first is lying, and the
> second is sloppy reasoning.

Well, I can see how my offhand questions might have been interpreted to
suggest that I was doing the latter, but I can reassure you I'm more
careful than that :-)  My first concern was to find out just how the
fabric I was holding got its texture. Once I knew that, I could work on
the question of whether that technique was parallel to anything done in
any of the particular periods in which I was working. I was not simply
going to say, "Well, they could have accomplished this if they tried, so
it's legal." But looking back over my posts, as I inched my way along my
train of fact-finding, I can see how it might have looked as though I was
stopping at that point.

As it happens, Gail has just provided the missing links in my knowledge,
when she quoted a knowledgeable friend saying this:

> Second: Sueded silk, she says, would not have been used in the 12th
> century. According to her, all silk in 12th century Europe was
> imported from Byzantium, which wove all its fabrics from reeled silk.
> No matter what you did with it, the little ends wouldn't fuzz up
> because there weren't any little ends. Fabric made from reeled silk
> was and is strong, lustrous, and very expensive. Spinning silk from
> short pieces made it less expensive, because you could use the waste
> pieces (such as the bits on the outside of the cuccoons). My friend
> said that by the time the silk industry had made it to Italy in the
> 15th century, weavers were using waste silk for either the warp or the
> weft (I can't remember which) and that this was a big controversy and
> the subject of many statutes, because it was using "inferior" fibers.
> So perhaps this kind of fabric might have been used in and beyond the
> Renaissance. She didn't know whether it was or not, but it could have
> been.

I knew silk was being imported, not produced in Europe, in the 12th
century, and I knew that waste silk has short fibers, and I knew about the
use of waste silk to make inferior fabrics (under strict regulations) in
the 15th century European silk industry. But I didn't know that (1) only
waste silk would produce a softened effect when brushed, and (2) that only
reeled silk was imported at this time.

If so, this means that the bolt I have in hand is not usable for 12th
century, but might be usable for something rather later.

This does still leave me with a quandary regarding the 12th century silk
garment I need to make, and an issue that may call into question both (1)
and (2) above. (Gail, I'd love to hear your friend's comments on the
following.)

First, there are plenty of references to silk overdresses in the 12th
century, but the reeled silk I've seen modernly is typically very thin and
crisp, and the garments we see in the images suggest a heavy, drapey
fabric. The soft silk I have in hand would work well to create that look,
as would a fine woolen or worsted, but the reeled silk available now does
not usually fill that bill.  Is there reeled silk available now that is
heavy and drapey? If not, are we sure there was then? I have not seen
enough archaeological silk samples close-up to get an impression, and I
haven't studied the history of silk manufacture.

As part of the same train of thought, there is plenty of written evidence
of the use of silk for heavy purposes such as tentmaking and drapery and
horses' trappings; silk as a fiber was valued for its strength. I don't
have solid dates on these uses -- I'm working from memory. But I doubt
that flimsy, fine, or crisp silk would be suitable for such uses. That
raises, again, the issue of the availability of heavy reeled silk, and
also the possibility that there was some point at which waste silk was
also imported for heavier purposes.

In any case, I wouldn't be surprised if, in the 12th century, the rules
against importation of waste silk were not yet established. What is the
possibility that waste silks were being imported at the same time as the
reeled silks, but for different purposes? Didn't the Byzantines use their
waste fibers?

> FYI, my friend told me that no one is really sure how many silk
> cuccoons were used at a time to make thread for weaving. One thread is
> so fine you can barely see it, but some people say that as few as two
> were put together for a weaving thread. Others do not agree.

I don't know how you could get heavy silk fabrics otherwise, but I am not
a weaver. I wonder, though, if a heavy silk fabric made of multiple-strand
threads might be able to hold up to brushing to produce nap, if the
brushing actually broke fibers rather than making existing short fibers
stand up.

At this point, I think I'm going to put the sample I have under a
microscope and see if I can figure out anything about the length of the
fibers. Hints on what to look for are very welcome.

Changing topics to my bizarre experience with a herringbone "raw" silk
that "fulled," Gail quotes her friend again:

> First: The "felted" silk. My friend says that the commercial silk
> industry does all kinds of things to fabrics to prepare them for
> market, and that you probably washed out the sizing and perhaps other
> chemicals that controlled the fibers, allowing them to do what they
> want. Spun silk is made up of "short" fibers, which she says are
> longer than wool fibers but still relatively short, all spun together.
> The ends of the silk fibers stick out just like they do in spun wool,
> and depending on the quality of the silk that's spun to begin with,
> they will behave different ways when allowed to. Sizing, heat rolling,
> and other commercial treatments make the spun silk stay flat like
> reeled silk, which is silk fibers reeled straight from the cuccoon in
> immense lengths (up to 1/2 mile long!).

There's no doubt that this piece was indeed a spun silk, and that's
probably a fair explanation for the surface texture change. I wonder if
this would explain the tremendous shrinkage I got, too. If so, it would be
essentially equivalent to the effect of fulling on wool -- as the fibers
stop lying flat and start to fluff up, the fabric becomes thicker, and
loses some length and width.

--Robin


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: rubber backing, was Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 20:49:36 -0800
Status: RO

I made a hooded rain cape out of rubber-backed brocade once.  When I was 
finished, I carefully ironed the cotton lining onto the rubber.  I didn't 
melt the rubber stuff enough to seep thru the cotton, but that lining was 
cemented in place.  I didn't have to deal with the rubbery-ness, but I had 
a nicely lined brocade cape which was modern-waterproof while still looking 
period.

> > This is one of those questions that pops up regularly, and so far, I
>haven't
> > heard anyone come up with an easy, cheap, safe way to do it.  I've heard
> > some pretty industrious suggestions, including using lighter fluid and
>other
> > dangerous chemicals, but nothing that makes it really cost and safety
> > effective.
>
>I used some cotton-poly rubber backed stuff to make my blue dress
>(http://recital.tripod.com/costume/blue.htm). The stove top dying process
>made the rubber very soft, and when I hung it out to dry, where the rubber
>backing was folded onti itself, became bonded and peeled relatively easily
>from the fabric.
>Maybe someone would test to see if they can do the same thing to a whole
>piece of fabric? I simply lined it all and as the process managed to at
>least thin the rubber elsewhere, it really was no hotter than any other
>heavy fabric I've used:).
>
>michaela
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sueded silk again
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 21:07:14 -0800
Status: RO

Did these folks line their silk garments?  Could you line yours and get the 
right combination of surface shine and drapey weight you wanted?

>First, there are plenty of references to silk overdresses in the 12th
>century, but the reeled silk I've seen modernly is typically very thin and
>crisp, and the garments we see in the images suggest a heavy, drapey
>fabric. The soft silk I have in hand would work well to create that look,
>as would a fine woolen or worsted, but the reeled silk available now does
>not usually fill that bill.  Is there reeled silk available now that is
>heavy and drapey? If not, are we sure there was then? I have not seen
>enough archaeological silk samples close-up to get an impression, and I
>haven't studied the history of silk manufacture.
>
>As part of the same train of thought, there is plenty of written evidence
>of the use of silk for heavy purposes such as tentmaking and drapery and
>horses' trappings; silk as a fiber was valued for its strength. I don't
>have solid dates on these uses -- I'm working from memory. But I doubt
>that flimsy, fine, or crisp silk would be suitable for such uses. That
>raises, again, the issue of the availability of heavy reeled silk, and
>also the possibility that there was some point at which waste silk was
>also imported for heavier purposes.


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 21:31:25 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Looks like I'm on a 1950s kick.  My husband helped convince me to buy
a couple retro-looking stamps from Hot Potatoes.  We'll soon be receiving
two large stamps, one of a Bohr atom (Science!), and one of another matching
starburst shape.  George wants to be ScienceMan.  Actually, he wants me
to block print him a work shirt using those stamps.  It'll go fine with my
black-on-black polka dot 50s dress.  Maybe I'll use silver embossing 
powder on his shirt, for the really cheezy 1950s futuristic look.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: rubber backing, was Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 22:23:36 -0700
Status: RO

Okay....*sigh*....I know, without a shadow of a doubt, that it's been
*way, way* too long a week when I see this subject line, and all that's
going through my head is:
"Rubber ducky, you're the one.  You make bathtime lots of fun....."
aaaarrrrgggggghhhhh........
Sue, running off to find the *sane* bits left of her life....

michaela wrote:
> 
> > This is one of those questions that pops up regularly, and so far, I
> haven't
> > heard anyone come up with an easy, cheap, safe way to do it.  I've heard
> > some pretty industrious suggestions, including using lighter fluid and
> other
> > dangerous chemicals, but nothing that makes it really cost and safety
> > effective.
> 
> I used some cotton-poly rubber backed stuff to make my blue dress
> (http://recital.tripod.com/costume/blue.htm). The stove top dying process
> made the rubber very soft, and when I hung it out to dry, where the rubber
> backing was folded onti itself, became bonded and peeled relatively easily
> from the fabric.
> Maybe someone would test to see if they can do the same thing to a whole
> piece of fabric? I simply lined it all and as the process managed to at
> least thin the rubber elsewhere, it really was no hotter than any other
> heavy fabric I've used:).
> 
> michaela
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 00:15:44 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] A puzzle for the silk experts (was: Sueded silk)
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 01:14:37 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


For those who came in late :-) I've been puzzling over a fabric I've
bought that was called "sueded silk" -- dress weight, substantial enough
not to see through, drapey, very very soft to the touch, but slightly
"sticky" like silk, smooth with a gentle shine, no slubs, and no nap
visible to the eye. It is not sandwashed silk. I've been trying to figure
out whether it might be a good representation of a medieval silk (I'm
looking for 12th c., but I could use it for something else if it was more
appropriate to a later period). Several people have commented that its
softness suggests it is a spun silk that has been brushed to raise the
short fibers into a "micro-nap," and that thus it would not have been used
in the middle ages, when reeled silks were the norm.

I just took a 7-inch-long strip from the weft edge and pulled out a 7-inch
long weft thread. It was two-ply, and I separated it. And then kept
separating. Every time I thought I was down to a unique fiber, I found
that it split apart again. Ultimately I got down to a fiber that was about
the width of a piece of dust. (This was not easy, and I lost quite a few
fibers into the air and had to start over.) It tangled easily till I got
the knack of separating the fibers, but it was not tightly twisted, and
did not seem prone to breaking. Of course I was handling it very gently;
I'm sure I could have broken it if I tried at all, but it didn't break on
its own just from the de-plying.

Every single one of these fibers was the full 7 inches I started with. 

Under a microscope, the thread was transparent; I could see its outline in
red (the fabric is red) and otherwise look right through the fiber. I saw
nothing else of note, but it's a very small student microscope, and I
don't know what to look for.

I then pulled a warp thread, which was only two inches (the width of my
sample swatch). A close look showed many short fiber ends sticking up from
the thread, which I had not seen on the weft. This, I think, is the source
of the micro-nap. However, when I plied the thread, I came up with the
same gossamer fibers, and the vast majority of them were the full length
of the two-inch thread.

I suspect I am looking at a reeled silk whose warp threads were brushed
enough to break a few of the surface fibers along the threads and create
the soft texture, leaving most of the threads intact. The weft threads do
not appear to have been broken in this way.

But I am not a silk expert. So, I ask those who know: Would the presence
of fibers that all ran the full length of a 7-inch-long thread be
sufficient to indicate a reeled silk? Is there something else I should be
checking for? Should I cut a much longer piece to be sure?

--Robin


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 00:25:38 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sueded silk again
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 01:25:23 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 1 Mar 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> Did these folks line their silk garments?  Could you line yours and
> get the right combination of surface shine and drapey weight you
> wanted?

Evidence on linings is uncertain at this time, and what I've been able to
find suggests they were used in some garments but not universally. I may
line mine, but although a lining would add weight to the garment, in my
experience it would not change the surface draping/folding of the outer
layer. Most of the silks people point to today as "reeled" rather than
"spun" are too crisp or too fine/limp to hang right, at least as I
understand "right." I may be wrong ;-)

In any case, I'm not looking just to make this work visually with the
fabric I have in hand. If it was only the look I needed, there are a lot
of things I could do. But I'm trying to determine the weight/type of
fabric that *would* have been used, and then to locate a modern equivalent
that will help me test the construction to see if I can achieve the same
heavy, drapey look I see in the images, and maybe answer some questions as
well. This is possibly not an achievable goal, given the gaps in the
evidence, but I want to get as close as I can.

However, as I've posted in another post a few minutes ago, it may be a
reeled silk I have after all, which might put it back in the running.

--Robin


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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 09:47:31 -0000
Status: RO

I picked this book up from a book club a while back because
a) I'm a beginner, this is a book about middle ages dress, I'm buying it
b) it was cheap
c) it's got lots of pretty pictures.

But.... written in the 1840s?

Can I take any of those pretty pictures as being accurate, useful, or anything else?

ISBN 188544024-3

It's in Amazon, but with no reviews



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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 02:03:50 -0800
Status: RO

Fur trade Living History?  What are the dates on this?  Is this the same 
period as the folks who do Rendezvous (ron-de-voo's)/Mountain Men stuff?

Dragonwolfcat writes, in a message sent 04:54 PM 2/28/02 -0800:
>Fort Vancouver is the one that Mickey was talking about--she says that Fort
>Nisqually has more fun though.
>
>She wasn't aware of any others down that way though, other than talking to
>the musuems and any other time frames of living history you might be
>interested in.  She's more interested in Fur Trade living history, although
>we have grand conversations about textiles.
>
>jonnalyhn
>
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
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>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 01:30:51 -0800
Status: RO

At 7:41 PM -0800 3/1/02, Cruiskeen wrote:
>Was it Rokko fabrics on Fraser,  - a few blocks over from the main Indian
>shopping district at Main and 49th?

Hm, I don't think so. I'm pretty sure it had a more generic name. But 
it was right in that area. Darn, I can see the place in my mind... 
but I don't recall the street.
-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 08:30:46 -0500
Status: RO

And there are those of us on the list who hand make clothing in
appropriate fabrics and colors for the particular time and place
using the most stringent research they can find, and by hooking
up with museum curators and archeologists that still get
penalized for being SCA by other 'serious' historical costumers.
margali
member of the SCA 23 years and counting, and with the exception
of cooking slops every garment made and worn accurate. I even
carve bone and cast my own jewelry and pins for my roman, norse
and scythian clothing. When I kept sheep, I took my wool and
turned it into clothing using dye stuffs scrounged from my woods
and scoured the wool with soap made from sheep fat and wood ash
lye. I may lurk most of the time, but then again I don't know
many people on any mailing list that commute 70 miles each way to
work through a major metropolitan area, work a full day and still
have to maintain hearth and home.

-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> I've been noticing a lot of h-costume
> conversations lately geared toward SCA activities.  I get so much out the
> higher level, 'scholarly' type threads here, and I guess I just want to keep
> it that way.
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Line the rubber backed stuff with something like light weight cotton and make 
a cloak for rainy days

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Line the rubber backed stuff with something like light weight cotton and make a cloak for rainy days
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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I made the mistake of working part time for a fabric store a few years back.  
My stash grew, but the bank account didn't.  Working full time in a book 
store was even worse.  I felt like one of those homeless people that sits 
with a sign saying they will work for food.  I needed one that said I will 
work for books (or fabric), because that is pretty much the way it turned 
out.  The craft store wasn't a good idea either.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I made the mistake of working part time for a fabric store a few years back. &nbsp;My stash grew, but the bank account didn't. &nbsp;Working full time in a book store was even worse. &nbsp;I felt like one of those homeless people that sits with a sign saying they will work for food. &nbsp;I needed one that said I will work for books (or fabric), because that is pretty much the way it turned out. &nbsp;The craft store wasn't a good idea either.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 10:41:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: silk question
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 11:16:14 -0500
Status: RO


Robin et al:

I am going to get all these questions to my friend, but she doesn't check
her email every day and so it might take a few days, even if I phone her
(which I will).

But in the meantime, I wanted to clarify something -- I didn't mean to say
that people always wove with only two reeled fibers. That's the low end of
what has been posited for the sheerest silk. Most silk at the time, I think
she said, was thick. We were discussing how sheer it could be made without
breaking (silk fibers are very strong, as most of you probably know, but
they aren't unbreakable). I don't know what the upper end of numbers of
cocoons per weaving thread was.

I don't want to speculate any more when I can ask someone, so I'll stop
there. But I have to say, I'm very curious about what garment this is that
you're trying to recreate!

Gail


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 10:44:33 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: rubber-backed brocade
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 11:19:45 -0500
Status: RO


I once talked with a woman whose Tudor-era skirt was made of a beautiful
rubber-lined brocade. She told me that she made it because she loved the
fabric, but that it was tough on machine needles and extremely hot to wear.
She had a farthingale under it, so it didn't touch her skin (that's why she
chose that particular garment to make), but it was hot nevertheless.

Just an FYI for anyone thinking of using it. The only thing I've ever used
it for was draping over camp stools to use as temporary seating. No sewing
involved, and it looks nice, especially with velvet pillows on top.

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 11:45:39 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] cotton Satin
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 12:27:04 EST
Status: RO

Someone on list gave a site that sells cotton satin. I'm down to my last 2 
yards and will need more after I get back from GW. Would whoever sent in the 
site please send it in again? I cannot remember what the subject line was and 
I can't find it (along with a myriad of other things) here in Texas.
Thanks,
Lady G
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 12:05:51 2002
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 12:47:51 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:

<< > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared toward 
SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type threads 
here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>

Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send 
in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If 
you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and 
each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the 
numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is 
there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just 
chattier/more vocal.
Lady G
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I am new to SCA and have been doing 14th century, but am moving into 
Elizabethan now.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I am new to SCA and have been doing 14th century, but am moving into Elizabethan now. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 12:40:37 2002
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 13:22:36 EST
Status: RO

hi--I'm Kathryn---
I've played with SCA almost 30 years, now--as well as with Faire in various 
groups, as well as Friends of the English Regency. I live in the Ventura , 
California area. My parents insist that I was grabbing for fabric, buttons 
and beads from my stroller at a VERY early age. I am a confirmed 
jewelry/embroidery/costumning junkie. Love costumning of all periods--but in 
particular 13th, 16th, Regency, and Edwardian. Have taught metal 
thread/bullion embroidery for 15 years--another  side-line.Love to hear about 
'more scholarly ' approaches to costumne and costumne research , as well:) We 
are all continuing to learn and 'hone our skills' no matter how long we have 
been at this:) I look forward to attending one of the Kalmazoo conferences 
one of these years.  I notice that the over all 'consciousness' and quality 
of work appears to hve improved over the years in our local branch of 
SCA----as well as the other groups I've played in, through all the different 
costumning groups co-mingling more and sharing what they know. I think it's 
important that we continue to share with each other from our  varying points 
of view---but be careful not to look down our noses at other groups. Everyone 
has to start somewhere! 
I have generally enjoyed many of the threads I've read on this list--but also 
been  occasionaly a little dismayed when things have 'tangented' too far from 
the primary focus --costumning---  or deteriorated into snarking---which I 
feel is unproductive. 
Just my two cents---
Albra/Kathryn
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From: Patris MEALLIER <argad@wanadoo.fr>
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:01:08 +0100
Status: RO

Well... I've been on this website, which is from USA but it appears that the

thread, and may be the lace also, comes from Germany...

...for those of us in Europe wouldn't it be simpler to find who the German
producer is ?

Incidentally I've found a metal lace producer in Lyon (France)
which sent me some samples. But they haven't got the internet !

Patrice Meallier "Huchehault"
http://pro.wanadoo.fr/huchehault/




Leif Drews a *crit :

> Oh well......... forgot to add the adress....... sorry!
>
> http://www.cmtonline.com/~kplamp/
>
> Bjarne
>
> --

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 12:06:22 -0700
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On Sat, Mar 02, 2002 at 12:47:51PM -0500, LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send 
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.

Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your mailboxes,
people.

						...eliz

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 20:31:27 +0100
Status: RO

> On Sat, Mar 02, 2002 at 12:47:51PM -0500, LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
>> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
>> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.
> 
> Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your mailboxes,
> people.
What if we all sent our mail to the Lady Gryphon and she can summarize?
That's how they do it on other lists :)

BTW since I'm already taking up bandwith: I have been in the SCA for over 3
years now. This is what has gotten me into costuming. I have met more people
very concerned about authenticity than not in the SCA. I like every period
but have done most of my stuff around French and German 1350 though I am now
trying my hand at Elizabethan renaissance around 1580. The dress I am making
will be as close as I can make it to authentic taking my budget into account
(which definitely already really hurts but it is for a very special
occasion)

Cassandra von Schwabing :)
MKA Cassandra Greer :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 14:39:14 -0500
Status: RO

>Everybody on list send in an e-mail

Okay.  :)

>your affiliation
SCA

>preferred year
Early to mid 15th century.

>preferred activity
I make my own garb, accessories, and some jewelry.  I also occasionally 
make stuff for others.


Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@loudzen.com
www.loudzen.com/users/jessica

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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 14:45:22 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 2/3/02 1:07:29 PM, eliz@indra.com writes:

<< Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your mailboxes,
people. >>

Yes and taking into consideration that everyone won't write and it will 
probably take a month for those who do e-mail about it it's less than 10 
extras per day.
Lady G
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I get such a kick out of these threads.  I joined the list for reference and 
technical advice from theatrical and other costuming professionals.  I'm a 
theatrical costumer with about 12 years of experience, having been a 
seamstress since my teens.  Always did the Halloween thing, until I 
discovered that if I jumped over to theater I could get paid and do it more 
than once a year!  The era that really rang my bell was the 1920s, but I know 
do many others with just as much gusto (Cavalier, Italian Renaissance, etc 
etc).  

I joined the list while sitting at home after surgery in 1997 or thereabouts. 
Not absolutely sure if that came first, or just got me more active.  Never 
done the SCA thing, but sometimes I wish I did.

Oh yeah, I've never regretted being on this list.  I have yet to be let down. 
You are all so giving of your time and knowledge. It is truly a privilige to 
be among you.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"See! How she leans her cheek upon her hand, 
O! That I were a glove upon that hand,
That I might touch that cheek."
Romeo & Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Narrow" LANG="0">I get such a kick out of these threads.&nbsp; I joined the list for reference and technical advice from theatrical and other costuming professionals.&nbsp; I'm a theatrical costumer with about 12 years of experience, having been a seamstress since my teens.&nbsp; Always did the Halloween thing, until I discovered that if I jumped over to theater I could get paid and do it more than once a year!&nbsp; The era that really rang my bell was the 1920s, but I know do many others with just as much gusto (Cavalier, Italian Renaissance, etc etc).&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
I joined the list while sitting at home after surgery in 1997 or thereabouts. Not absolutely sure if that came first, or just got me more active.&nbsp; Never done the SCA thing, but sometimes I wish I did.<BR>
<BR>
Oh yeah, I've never regretted being on this list.&nbsp; I have yet to be let down. You are all so giving of your time and knowledge. It is truly a privilige to be among you.<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes <BR>
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
<BR>
"See! How she leans her cheek upon her hand, <BR>
O! That I were a glove upon that hand,<BR>
That I might touch that cheek."<BR>
Romeo &amp; Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_ca.76ed616.29b28b89_boundary--
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 21:38:12 +0100
Status: RO


Hello
I am Bjarne from Denmark.
I have no connections to RCA, i dont even know what it is.
The only reason i am here is because i am interrested in all kinds of
discutions about making historical accurate costumes. It dont bather me
wheather people on this list makes for SCA or other things as long as
the topics are interresting wich they usually are.

Bjarne


--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 14:41:49 -0600
Status: RO

Hmmm...affiliation is Bristol Renn Faire patron and very recently SCA. I
mostly do Elizabethan, 1580ish or so, middle class or upper merchant class
(it's a tad bit more affordable!). I am dabbling with the idea of some
earlier era - maybe 12th century or so - for easier clothing for the SCA
stuff. And one of these days I'm going to make something out of The Voice of
Fashion (late Victorian/Edwardian) that I bought two years ago!

I tend to try to get as authentic as I can, or at least know what the
authentic thing to do is, so I can fake it as close as possible :-)

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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St. Louis Costumers' Guild/International Costumers' Guild, a little SCA, 
Imperium Antiquitus....

I do Tudor, Cockney, Roman...hope to do some early 17th century soon.  I'm 
here to learn, discover books & websites, find cloth & trim sites.

With a name like fabrichoarder, I'm in the right place!

Ramona

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>St. Louis Costumers' Guild/International Costumers' Guild, a little SCA, Imperium Antiquitus....
<BR>
<BR>I do Tudor, Cockney, Roman...hope to do some early 17th century soon. &nbsp;I'm here to learn, discover books &amp; websites, find cloth &amp; trim sites.
<BR>
<BR>With a name like fabrichoarder, I'm in the right place!
<BR>
<BR>Ramona</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 22:18:24 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

I am a member of the SCA.
But if I could find an other group specialized in 16th century (clothing or
dancing) I would join them too.
I really like to make and wear 16th century clothing.
But I also like 15th century Italian clothing.
Actually making this clothing and reseurching it is someting I do almost 24 ours
a day ;-)
Over two months I will have picktures of my wedding wich is offcourse in 16th
century style...
But now I have still a few meters of embroidery to doo ;-(

Greetings,
        Deredere


LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:
>
> << > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared toward
> SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type threads
> here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>
>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If
> you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and
> each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
> numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
> there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
> chattier/more vocal.
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 16:23:10 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Mar 2002, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> I don't want to speculate any more when I can ask someone, so I'll
> stop there. But I have to say, I'm very curious about what garment
> this is that you're trying to recreate!

The outfit will be that of a noblewoman of the 12th century French court,
and it is for a university French professor whose doctoral thesis was on
costume reference in 12th century romance. In these romances, the noble
heroes/heroines and royalty are typically described as wearing bliauts of
silk.

About all we know about "bliaut" from written contexts is that it is an
overgarment worn by upperclass men and women. Although costume historians
tend to apply the word "bliaut" to the cryptic garment seen on the
sculptures of Chartres and a few other buildings of that period, we have
no way to know if anyone in the 12th century called those particular
garments "bliauts." Manuscript illuminations and other artwork tend to
show a more believable/achievable overdress style, without the weird seams
and pleatings/crinklings/whatever that you see on the statues. I think it
is most likely that "bliaut" was a more generic term for overgown, which
may have included the Chartres-style gowns as only one subset. In any
case, it's reasonable to assume that if the Chartres overgown style
existed, it was probably worn only by a small subset of people (e.g.
royalty) and apparently occurred in a very small segment of place and time
within the longer period and larger area in which the term "bliaut" was
used.

The bliaut is sometimes described in the romances as being worn over an
undergown called a chainse, which is sometimes described as being of white
linen, but probably is not the same as a chemise, and the white linen
chainses in the literature may have been outliers -- that is, the author
may have mentioned the white linen of a lady's chainse in certain cases
because it was *different* from the norm, and thus an unusual
characteristic that has significance to the depiction of the character.
This is one example of a problem that often comes up when you try to use
literary references as documentation for clothing, as descriptions of
literary characters often mention *atypical*, not typical clothing -- and
that's why the clothing is described, as listeners/readers would already
know what was typical and would recognize the distinctions. The most often
quoted source for such references in this period is Eunice Goddard's book
on clothing references in 11th and 12th century French romances, but
Goddard's goal was simply to catalog and collate mentions. In her
analysis, she often fails to note the context of the references, so unless
you are familiar with the romances already, you might not realize that a
particular garment was associated only with, say, a fairy-woman or other
supernatural creature.

More than you wanted to know!

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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I joined h-costume in 1995 when I was a student in college.  I was taking my
first historic costume and art history classes.  I want to learn more about
Ancient Egyptian costume because I was struggling keeping all the kingdoms
apart.  The two classes were really confusing me with all the dates and
names.  I really found it fun to discuss what I was being taught in my
classes with the members of h-costume.  I have learned so much from the
members on the list because so many people have different time frame
interests.  I also learned of so many resources to pull for my projects.
H-costume was the first email list I was ever on.

I like all eras of historic fashions.  I kinda think of them in the same
manner as my children... I love them all and it is hard to pick one as my
favorite.

My affiliation... I have been a member of Costume Society of America since
1996.  I served as their webmaster for three years.  I took a year off after
that... I needed a break to develop my business.  Now I am back again.

Email list I am on... this one is long...
***fantasy
***vintage
***h-needlework
***tlhs (long hair email list)
***DC Webwomen (tech list for women in Wahington DC area)

I own four email lists.  Two are private lists.  Public lists at
yahoogroups:
***costumegallery (newsletter for my website)
***FilmCostumes

Other lists that I am on at yahoogroups:
***19cWoman
***50sFashion
***Ballgownsect
***boys-costumes
***bustlesandbows
***Costume_Closet
***costumedc
***costumeinfo
***dldc (distance education list)
***elegancebeauty
***replicaclothing
***sewinghistoric
***sewretro
***sewvictorian
***VintageCouture

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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<DIV>I joined h-costume in 1995 when I was a student in college.&nbsp; I =
was=20
taking my first historic costume and art history classes.&nbsp; I want =
to learn=20
more about Ancient Egyptian costume because I was struggling keeping all =
the=20
kingdoms apart.&nbsp; The two classes were really confusing me with all =
the=20
dates and names.&nbsp; I really found it fun to discuss what I was being =

taught&nbsp;in my classes with the members of h-costume.&nbsp; I have =
learned so=20
much from the members on the list because so many people have different =
time=20
frame interests.&nbsp; I also learned of so many resources to pull for =
my=20
projects.&nbsp; H-costume was the first email list I was ever on.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I like all eras of historic fashions.&nbsp; I&nbsp;kinda think of =
them in=20
the same manner as my children... I love them all and it is hard to pick =
one as=20
my favorite.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>My affiliation... I have been a member of Costume Society of =
America since=20
1996.&nbsp; I served as their webmaster for three years.&nbsp; I took a=20
year&nbsp;off after that... I needed a break to develop my =
business.&nbsp; Now I=20
am back again.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Email list I am on... this one is long...</DIV>
<DIV>***fantasy</DIV>
<DIV>***vintage</DIV>
<DIV>***h-needlework</DIV>
<DIV>***tlhs (long hair email list)</DIV>
<DIV>***DC Webwomen (tech list for women in Wahington DC area)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I own four email lists.&nbsp; Two are private lists.&nbsp; Public =
lists at=20
yahoogroups:</DIV>
<DIV>***costumegallery (newsletter for my website)</DIV>
<DIV>***FilmCostumes</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Other lists that I am on at&nbsp;yahoogroups:</DIV>
<DIV>***19cWoman</DIV>
<DIV>***50sFashion</DIV>
<DIV>***Ballgownsect</DIV>
<DIV>***boys-costumes</DIV>
<DIV>***bustlesandbows</DIV>
<DIV>***Costume_Closet</DIV>
<DIV>***costumedc</DIV>
<DIV>***costumeinfo</DIV>
<DIV>***dldc (distance education list)</DIV>
<DIV>***elegancebeauty</DIV>
<DIV>***replicaclothing</DIV>
<DIV>***sewinghistoric</DIV>
<DIV>***sewretro</DIV>
<DIV>***sewvictorian</DIV>
<DIV>***VintageCouture</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 15:32:48 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 22:13:10 +0100
Status: RO

OOOOps, there you go. i said RCA, but i ment SCA.......
Sorry

Bjarne

Leif Drews wrote:

> Hello
> I am Bjarne from Denmark.
> I have no connections to RCA, i dont even know what it is.
> The only reason i am here is because i am interrested in all kinds of
> discutions about making historical accurate costumes. It dont bather me
> wheather people on this list makes for SCA or other things as long as
> the topics are interresting wich they usually are.
>
> Bjarne
>
> --
>
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
>
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
>
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 13:35:16 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume

  I've been in the SCA for 7-years now, and like to
focus on the 16c, both English and Italian.  
  My fiancee is a Rector for the Tattershall School of
Defense, and I also make all his clothes.
  A friend recommended this list as a more "educated"
one for making clothes.

Sheila
Lady Turrel


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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 17:17:49 -0500
Status: RO

I started out sewing as a kid, made only Halloween costumes for many years
as sewing is not a cheap hobby and I cannot compete with the prices I see at
Walmart.  Then I discovered Renaissance Festivals, the SCA, and all these
other groups I had no idea existed, and my descent into fabric
stashaholicism started.  I am fascinated by SCA-period (read 12-16th century
for me, anyway) clothing, and pretty much everything except Regency styles.
I have no place to wear most of this stuff, but that does not stop my
collection of techniques.  I am looking forward very much to being done with
school (mid-life career change stuff) and actually having time to put into
practice some of the tremendous amount I have learned from this list.
-Megan McHugh

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sheila
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 4:35 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Why are you on h-costume



> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume

  I've been in the SCA for 7-years now, and like to
focus on the 16c, both English and Italian.
  My fiancee is a Rector for the Tattershall School of
Defense, and I also make all his clothes.
  A friend recommended this list as a more "educated"
one for making clothes.

Sheila
Lady Turrel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:27:13 +1300
Status: RO

> > Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
send
> > in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
activity.

Only fringe SCA, only been to a few events and probably will stay that
way:).
I'm a cross period person, 15thC "Flemish" 16thC german, 1800-1840s,
1870s-1880s mostly. I skip the crin years. I know people love them, I can't
stand them. And I have to wear one in MAAN for a 4 1/2 week season, wah!

michaela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: silk question
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 23:32:45 +0100
Status: RO

> About all we know about "bliaut" from written contexts is that it is an
...large snip
> 
> The bliaut is sometimes described in the romances as being worn over an
..large snip...
> 
> More than you wanted to know!
On the contrary!!!! feed me more! yummy!

Cass :)

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry Shaw: "Dress and Decoration of the Middle Ages"
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 18:56:49 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> I picked this book up from a book club a while back because
> a) I'm a beginner, this is a book about middle ages dress, I'm buying it
> b) it was cheap
> c) it's got lots of pretty pictures.
> 
> But.... written in the 1840s?
> 
> Can I take any of those pretty pictures as being accurate, useful, or
> anything else?

As redrawings go, some of these are really quite good; Shaw is a more
faithful copyist than some of his contemporaries. Some of the images have
flaws, misreadings, or outright changes. In particular, he tends to lower
the waist on women's clothing and increase the bustline to "improve" the
figure. If you know the originals, you can distinguish the good from the
not-so-good. But if you know the originals, why would you be using Shaw?
At least he's pretty good about citing his sources.

The best use is this: If you see something in here you like, you can then
track down the original and work from that. If you don't know where to
find the original, give a holler -- I could put my fingers on half of
those images within 60 seconds on my own bookshelf, and I bet there are
others on this list who could do the same.

I can't speak for the text. I haven't read it carefully. I have seen
another of Shaw's books that has such awful errors that I wouldn't trust
any of his analysis of clothing.

--Robin

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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 15:53:31 -0800
Status: RO

To LadyGryphon-

h-cost for 13c, not into reenacting yet, primarily feast/picnic/archery
activities; love Regency discussion (adore the dancing);  appreciate
discussion of 1840s, 1890s, 1910s

18c woman list for rendezvous activities and love of the georgian
attire, prefer 1740s (picnic, dancing, tea activities)

musketeer list for cavalier era (picnic/dancing), weaponry interest for husband



LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. I
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 18:10:32 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 15:49:06 -0800
Status: RO

>>> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
> send
>>> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
> activity.

SCA & Ren Faire, but mainly SCA.  I know that my excuse as far as the SCA is
concerned is that it's virtually the only well-organized medieval
reenactment group within reasonable driving distance.  ::Soap Box Warning::
So, in many ways, it's the only creative outlet I have.  It kinda rubs me
the wrong way when people roll their eyes at the fact that I do SCA, as
though it discredits my hardwork and research that I invest in my costumes.
I hate that the SCA has such a stigma attached to it, but I can't deny that
I do enjoy the variety that it has to offer.  You definately get out of it
what you put into it...

Okay, you can have the soapbox back.  :)

Sarah Lorraine

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: silk question
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 19:34:04 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Mar 2002, Cassandra Greer wrote:

> > About all we know about "bliaut" from written contexts is that it is an
> ...large snip
> > 
> > The bliaut is sometimes described in the romances as being worn over an
> ..large snip...
> > 
> > More than you wanted to know!

> On the contrary!!!! feed me more! yummy!

Oh, golly. The bliaut is a frequent topic of discussion on this list. Have
you looked at the archives at <http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives>?
I can point you to a few threads that address this topic that I
happen to have saved notes on, as follows:

	Real & unreal - fold lines -- Oct 2000
	Queen of Sheba bliaut (WAS Paris trip report) -- Jan 2001
	Bliaut patterns/instructions -- Nov 2001

You can search for those by subject line, and you can probably find a lot
more by searching subject lines just for the words "bliaut" or "12th
century" or "Chartres."

That should keep you busy for a little while ;-)

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 18:41:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Why I'm Here
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 17:23:15 -0700
Status: RO

My main focus is 1840-1860, with short forays into 1880-1910; we do 
non-military impressions for American Civil War, westward migration (Oregon 
& Mormon Trail), etc.  Occasionally I get an earlier or later project to 
work on, and having a multi-era list to throw things at is a huge help.  I 
have only an academic interest in things before 1700, but enjoy the chats 
that get going about them.

Regards,
Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 19:20:44 2002
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 20:08:25 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

Currently, my only outlet as far as costume making is the SCA--my primary
period of interest is England, from the Conquest through the 14th century,
with the focus on the 13th century.  However, I've studied several other
periods in some depth, including 16th century/Elizabethan, Norse, Rus', and
migrations period Europe (Germanic tribes). I was at one time involved in
ECW reenacting, but haven't been lately. I have at least a passing interest
in several other periods, including Regency and 1920s-1940s.

For costume research, I'm currently interested in clerical/monastic
clothing, with the focus being the 13th century since that's the sources I
know best. I have a doctorate in medieval history with a focus on the same
period, but am not working in academia.

Susan
(SCA Nicolaa de Bracton)

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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 21:57:21 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:01 PM -0500 3/1/02, LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 1/3/02 6:57:56 PM, claning@igc.org writes:
>
><< The effect was enhanced by the fact that her farthingale hoops were too
>big and she wore them straight from her waist -- no bumroll. >>
>
>I saw something similar at Scarborough a couple of years ago. She was in the
>lasies room complaining that her hoops showed (at least she noticed, most
>don't). I told her I could fix it, dove upnder her skirt and reduced her
>hoops to a reasonable amount. The hoops disappeared and she went out with a
>smile.
>Lady G

That does help. I see far too many ladies in Elizabethans whose hoops 
show -- usually due to not enough layers between the hoops and the 
gown, or else not enough yardage in the outermost skirt. In my 
experience you need at least 2 layers in between and twice as much 
circumference in the skirt as in the farthingale. The most 
conspicuous area is usually the front, since a lot of people wear a 
forepart to the skirt that's lighter weight than the rest of the 
skirt. Fortunately I have an industrial-strength stiffened forepart 
with a layer of denim in it (thanks, Margo! <g>), which pretty much 
eliminates *that* problem. Five yards of medium-weight wool and a 
heavy petticoat over the hoops take care of the rest of it.

I almost think this is the most common problem with women who don't 
have a lot of experience or information with Elizabethan clothing. 
Running a close second is having the skirts too short. I see entirely 
too many nice Elizabethans where the gorgeous red-and-gold brocade 
stops a good 3 to 4 inches above the floor. <sigh>
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 22:17:19 -0500
Status: RO

 Hi, I'm Diana . I joined the list to learn what I could about
historical clothing. My intestest is Renaissance faires and the period
clothing for the time from 1500's to mid 1600's. I want to make clothing
as close to historially correct as I can.  I make anything from peasent
to nobles for myself and friends. As a newbie to all this I tend to read
more then post.  I ask questions when I don't understand or need help. I
don't feel I have enough knowledge in anything to contribute worth while
comments or suggestions.

Diana
Aka Dhannti
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 21:28:47 -0500
Status: RO

I'm on this list because there are such a great variety of interests and
time periods represented -- and there is a wealth of knowledge constantly
pouring into the list. I think I have learned more here in four years (has
it been four?) than I had learned previously on my own. The list has opened
up so many avenues of discussion (everything from portraiture to
construction techniques and more).

My favorite periods are the Regency (my "specialty") and the
Edwardian/Teens. I'm one of those crazy people who actually wears this stuff
on a regular basis to the grocery store. I don't have a lot of patience with
ugliness in fashion and just refuse to wait for the rest of the world to
catch up (or is it "regress?")! LOL!

My husband, three boys and I do 1812 and ACW reenacting here in Alabama and
hope to get into some Colonial reenacting in the future. We are both
lifelong history nuts and really enjoy the details of the periods we've
studied. That and English Lit (my major in college) have really contributed
to my passion for historic costume.

So many great folks on the list from all around the world! It is nice to be
among kindred spirits. :-)

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 14:55:53 -0800
Status: RO



LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If
> you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and
> each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
> numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
> there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
> chattier/more vocal.

Also an SCA person, now in my eighth year (has it been that long already?). I've
also belonged to other groups and hang around the fringes of a folk dance group
for the occasional historic dances they have, which are currently my only excuses

for wearing costume outside SCA period. My favourite period is the 15th century
but my wardrobe has stuff from Roman through to the 1780s (but the folk dance
group is having an Austen ball in a couple of months and I recently acquired some

nice dark blue spotted cotton so that may get pushed up a few years....)
Claire

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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 20:51:37 -0700
Status: RO

Okey-doke....here goes Sue, babbling on....
I'm on this list because it's *not* the SCA.  It's my relief from
it...not that I don't enjoy it, really I do, but I like other things as
well, and there are _no_ other reenactment/recreation groups in the
_state_ that I'm aware of.  This is my place to learn, and experiment,
and drool in awe at people's work (I'd just _die_ for something of
Bjarne's for instance ;-D) I get that in the SCA, too, but this is
*different*, and I cherish that.

My primary areas of knowledge/practice are 16th century monochrome
embroidery and English (Tudor/Elizabethan) women's clothing.  Robin's
seen my blackwork *snort*, so she can vouch for how crazy I am about
that.....
But, I've been having the time of my life learning about, and being
tempted by, everybody else's areas of interest, especially
ECW/Restoration, American Colonial, and Victorian/Edwardian (I'm pretty
vague about the latter because I don't know much about it, but there's a
lot of it I'd like to play with <g>).  And I've been taking Ben's
classes on early and middle Anglo-Saxon clothing, along with a *whole*
lotta others through Penny's website (just ask her...she makes jokes
about it, sometimes <g>)
I think the thing I like most about this list is how passionate and
involved we all are in our various areas of interest, whether we
specialize in theatrical costuming, or adore movies, or do costume/SciFi
cons, or any one of the dozens of historical groups I've become aware of
through this list....And we're all over the world, which is completely
cool....
Oh, and last but far from least, it is a purely spiritual, mental, and
almost physical joy to have a chance to rub <electronic> elbows with
actual scholarly types....like Robin, or Ben, or Drea, or any of the
wonderful teachers from Penny's website (and Penny, too), and everyone
else that I'm drawing a complete bloody blank on [okay, so it's Saturday
night, and I left my brain in my desk drawer at work <g>]....You guys
challenge me, and that's a blessing.  Thank you.

--Sue (old, used SCA laurel)
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 21:57:02 -0600
Status: RO



LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:


>Everybody on list send 
>in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If 
>you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and 
>each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the 
>numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is 
>there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just 
>chattier/more vocal.
>
I used to do SCA, but moved away from it about 10 years ago.  With my 
experience there, though, I understand the context that many questions 
asked come from.

Since I switched my involvement from the SCA to the International 
Costumer's Guild, I have expanded my range of interests considerably 
(part of why I left SCA in the first place).  I can't claim a favorite 
time; I prefer to challenge myself with every new project I do.  There 
are outfits I did not think myself capable of doing, or suitable for my 
body type, that I know look forward to making.  I accept that my depth 
of knowledge isn't, and probably won't ever be, at the same level as 
many of you; that's my choice - to be a good dabbler rather than a great 
specialist.

I am on the h-needlework list as well as the following yahoogroups:

ICG-D - International Costumer's Guild
HistoricKnit - self-explanatory
Apicius - for people interested in cooking/recipes through time

Karen

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From: Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 15:36:36 -0800
Status: RO



Teddy wrote:

>
> > Ironing 5m of fabric is tedious to say the least.
>
> Yep - I often put some music on, or iron in front of a few episodes
> of Buffy on video or DVD.
>
> > Hence I usually try to avoid pre-washing where possible.
>
> Nothing could persuade me to do that - I prefer the security of
> knowing my fabric has been wash-abused and shrunk *before* I
> take the time to make it up - thatway whatever I make can be
> thrown in the machine and washed whenever it needs it instead of
> waiting for me to jfeel rich enough to afford drycleaning bills.
>

I can't say I've ever had any serious shrinkage accidents. Mind you I
make most of my stuff so that it doesn't need to be washed, and the
under layers are mostly linen, which doesn't seem to shrink much, and
loose which doesn't matter if they do. I always wash on cold anyway.
That probably helps. The most troubles I've had when washing have been
when some friendly person has decided to help out with washing and
thrown hand-wash only stuff into the washer, or washed on warm stuff
which has only ever been washed on cold.



>
> > Is there a clever way around this? Or is it yet another of the joys
> > of a front-loader?
>
> Nope, i think Ironing is a universal drudge-chore no matter where
> your washer loads from....<G>

Hmmm, probably why I rarely ever do it. And it's hot work too, which
is all the more reason (in my books) to avoid it (says she who just spent

two days straight cooking).
Mostly I think I'm just lazy....:-)
Claire

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From: Crissy <sewinggoddess@att.net>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 00:11:07 -0500
Status: RO


Hi, my name is Crissy and I 'm a costume junkie.  I do belong to the SCA and I
enjoy the ability to be a little *different* in my garb.  Like a well fitted
period outfit in a periodoid-type fabric.....Now mind you... I fit everything
quite well, and the lines of the garments are usually close to correct. I just
like to use bright colors....it's an addiction.
  I also love corsets and I'm making a Victorian  corset off the laughing moon
pattern. I also go to visit a local Civ war event each year...and go
shopping.....
    Now my Mother does costumes for the local Opera company, so we discuss a wide
range of time periods between us.  I't really funny when we go fabric shopping
together and one of us will hold up a  bolt of fabric and squeal..."OOOhhh , look
wouldn't this make a GREAT ( insert costume piece here) "

Crissy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 22:56:02 -0800
Status: RO

I am affliated with the SCA, and I do Elizabethan, Late Italian, and German
Renn.  Basically anything after 1500-1650.

I also like the Dangerous Liasions era of clothing... 1750--1785, but am not
affliated with any groups of that era as I don't live close enough to get to
anything like that on any kind of basis.

Brandy Dickson


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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 23:24:52 -0800
Status: RO




affiliation,--SCA, life in general


preferred year,--Almost all of them pre-1940


preferred activity.--Wearing wonderful, unique, me kind of clothes.

I have only been on this list for about a year and a half, but I find it's 
one of the things I look forward to every day.  It's like a recharger for my 
creative batteries when the rest of the world wants to grow up.  I will 
NEVER stop playing dress-up and I will never stop learning more about how to 
make the things I dream become reality.  God blessed me with a natural 
ability to sew and all of you have blessed me with the ability to do it 
Right!!

I think there is a lot of value in passing on our knowledge whatever level 
it is at.  Sometimes people ask questions and I even know the answers, so 
everyone has something to contribute as well as something to learn.

This week I slip out of historical mode and have six days to make a 
crossdyed taffetta gown for the "company formal" this year.  The beads and 
Venice lace still haven't arrived and I may have to debut before it's 
finished, but this one is just because I can so it's purple, full, and has a 
reinforced huge trained hem.  I get to float around all evening looking 
"smashing".  Who could ask for more?

Jennifer




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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 02:40:35 -0600
Status: RO

At 12:47 PM 3/2/2002 -0500, you wrote:

>In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:
>
><< > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared toward
>SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type threads
>here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>
>
>Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
>in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If
>you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and
>each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
>numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
>there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
>chattier/more vocal.
>Lady G

Good question Lady G.  Well, here goes...

I've been historical-clothing obsessed most of my life and got into the SCA 
about 14 yrs ago to have an excuse to make some of the stuff.  My specialty 
is 16th c. English but, I also am interested in the 16th c. in a lot of 
other places, 15th c, 17th c, 18th c, 19th c, first half 20th c...  you get 
the idea... : )  I want to try playing/reenacting with other times & groups 
but haven't had time to pursue that right now... (the joys of being a grad 
student).

Cheers,
Danielle
(SCA Gwendoline Rosamond) 

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 19:21:11 +1030
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>I'm on the list because I love history, not the political or religious stuff but the day to day lives of all classes. My favourite pediods are 1400 - 1900, although all I've made so far is Gothic, Roman and several Italian Renaissance gowns, I'm planning some Elizabethan and Tudor gowns for this year (If I can afford the fabric!).</DIV>
<DIV>I've been part of a Living History group (ancient to 1800) for a couple of years.</DIV>
<DIV>I want to go to University to study history.</DIV>
<DIV>I love this list because if someone has a question all they have to do is send it in and responses come pouring out. It's a great help to know that you have the minds of so many great costumers to pick.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca Anderson</DIV>
<DIV>aka</DIV>
<DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>P.S&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>You wrote : From: "Jennie Chancey" &lt;<A href="http://lw12fd.law12.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/compose?curmbox=F000000001&amp;a=144f73ed7f794906376a41e8306a7eaf&amp;mailto=1&amp;to=jchancey@ala.net&amp;msg=MSG1015127674.53&amp;start=2046034&amp;len=22741&amp;src=&amp;type=x" target=_top><FONT color=#000099>jchancey@ala.net</FONT></A>&gt;<BR>"&nbsp;I'm one of those crazy people who actually wears this stuff<BR>on a regular basis to the grocery store. I don't have a lot of patience with<BR>ugliness in fashion and just refuse to wait for the rest of the world to<BR>catch up (or is it "regress?")! LOL!"<BR>Me too, me too!</DIV>
<DIV>you get a lot of strange looks, but its a great conversation starter.<BR></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM101201/13'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: silk question
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 14:48:07 +0100
Status: RO

HI Robin! 
>>> More than you wanted to know!
>> On the contrary!!!! feed me more! yummy!
> Oh, golly. The bliaut is a frequent topic of discussion on this list. Have
> you looked at the archives at <http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives>?
> I can point you to a few threads that address this topic that I
> happen to have saved notes on, as follows:
> 
> Real & unreal - fold lines -- Oct 2000
> Queen of Sheba bliaut (WAS Paris trip report) -- Jan 2001
> Bliaut patterns/instructions -- Nov 2001
> 
> You can search for those by subject line, and you can probably find a lot
> more by searching subject lines just for the words "bliaut" or "12th
> century" or "Chartres."
> 
> That should keep you busy for a little while ;-)

Thank you for the tip! I just joined the list last week and am starting to
get a feel for what's here!

Thanks again!

Cass :)

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Subject: [h-cost] Sueded silk? Working at Fabric Store
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 09:15:22 -0600
Status: RO

Hey Lalah,

I know what you mean.  Its a toss up here as to whether the fabric or the
books will take over the house.  Never worked at a book store, probably
never would have a paycheck if I did. ;>

Genie

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Subject: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 09:27:08 -0600
Status: RO

I'm a member of the St Louis Costumer's Guild.  Never had much chance to get
into SCA or other historical costuming.  Another member of SLCG and on this
list Karen Heim got me interested enough to subscribe to this and
h-needlework.  I've been to two Costume Con's and helped run CC16 a few
years ago.  I sew, of course, and have done one or two masquerade
presenttations with the group..Time and finances kepp me from doing much
more.  The postings on these two list are always
informative_and_entertaining (thanks Bjarne and Teddy).

Genie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 10:37:40 2002
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From: Crissy <sewinggoddess@att.net>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 11:24:28 -0500
Status: RO

Paycheck?  You mean you're supposed to bring them HOME???? And not trade your
services in the store for more fabric????   Oooops! I guess I've been doing
it wrong all these years....<sigh>

 <giggle>

 Crissy, Assistant Manager, Jo-Ann Fabrics.

Genie wrote:

> Hey Lalah,
>
> I know what you mean.  Its a toss up here as to whether the fabric or the
> books will take over the house.  Never worked at a book store, probably
> never would have a paycheck if I did. ;>
>
> Genie
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 10:42:33 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:41:57 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Mar 2002 LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> Everybody on list send in an e-mail listing your affiliation...

None, if you mean groups to "play" in. I research medieval costume, and I
lecture for various audiences on request, including SCA groups, writer's
organizations, college classes, etc. I also lecture for academic
conferences in medieval studies, particularly the annual Medieval Congress
at Kalamazoo, where I organize a track of textile/dress sessions annually
and give papers roughly every other year.

Because I focus on medieval costume and speak for SCA groups, people who
know me only online usually assume I'm in the SCA. I was, when I was in
college, but I have not been active for nearly 20 years. I am still in
close touch with many of my onetime SCA friends, some of whom are still
active.

> preferred year...

11th through 15th centuries, mostly France/Flanders/England, though I
stray a bit sometimes.

> preferred activity.

I study not just practical construction, but also the use of costume in
artwork, with an eye to distinguishing the differences between real and
symbolic elements. I also study the development of medieval costume
scholarship over the last couple of centuries, mostly as a means to track
down the origins of questionable theories.

Because my focus isn't specifically on making things to wear, I don't
always sew the clothing I study; some of my best research has been on
clothing that never existed. What I sew, I don't always finish,
particularly if my interest is testing a construction method. Once I've
figured out the cut, I am not terribly interested in trims, decoration,
accessories. (Though I greatly admire people who can embroider, make lace,
or do other such embellishment. I have no patience for doing this myself.)

I love this list -- I have met so many people with so many specialties.
There are a lot of areas I know I'm weak in, and it's great to know that I
can toss out a question to this group and almost always find *someone* who
has studied it already. I've also made some good friends through this
list.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 08:41:06 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I've sewn most of my life and have always loved to play dress-up
(you'd think I'd outgrow that...). Anyway, I'm in the SCA; I went to
my first event in Germany 12 years ago and was bitten by the
costuming bug (nasty little thing--there's no cure and treatment is
*very* expensive!!). :-D

I love 16th century Italian clothing--it's what I wear most of the
time. I'm learning about Tudor and the Cranach-style German gowns
because I have friends who want gowns like them (gonna learn and then
teach them how to make them...).

Authenticity is something that's very important to me. When I'm
teaching someone to sew, I try to gently nudge that person in the
direction of making their garment as authentic as possible. It's
amazing to see when they realize that being more authentic doesn't
have to cost lots more and doesn't always take more time.

The H-Costume list is great! I've my own archive of postings from the
list that numbers over 1,000. One of these days (in my copius amounts
of spare time) I'll organize them, print them and put them into a
binder.

Kate
known in the SCA as THL Ailith Mackintosh

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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 13:59:59 -0800
Status: RO

I would never penalize anyone for being SCA.  Or for not being SCA, for 
that matter.  The fact that SCA costume standards are notoriously lax does 
not imply that every member agrees with those standards.  I don't, tho I 
understand why some do.  (For example, I have low standards for the 
periodness of the SCA food I eat and high ones for the SCA clothes I wear, 
feast-wench slops included, but you say your cooking slops are the least 
period of all your SCA garments, while your cooking is likely to come with 
footnotes and awards.)  There are 'serious' historical costumers, and 
very-non-serious ones, in every costume-wearing historical group.  OTOH, I 
live in Northern California, and I know 
sheep-owner/spinner/weaver/knitter/natural-dyer/garment-maker people who do 
no living history at all.

BTW, I used to have a commute like yours.  When I lived in Southern 
California (joined the SCA in 1971), I had one job where my husband and I 
lived in San Diego, a major metropolitan area, and I worked in Anaheim, in 
another major metropolitan area, 90 miles away.  My deepest sympathies and 
sincere commiseration.

>And there are those of us on the list who hand make clothing in
>appropriate fabrics and colors for the particular time and place
>using the most stringent research they can find, and by hooking
>up with museum curators and archeologists that still get
>penalized for being SCA by other 'serious' historical costumers.
>margali
>member of the SCA 23 years and counting, and with the exception
>of cooking slops every garment made and worn accurate. I even
>carve bone and cast my own jewelry and pins for my roman, norse
>and scythian clothing. When I kept sheep, I took my wool and
>turned it into clothing using dye stuffs scrounged from my woods
>and scoured the wool with soap made from sheep fat and wood ash
>lye. I may lurk most of the time, but then again I don't know
>many people on any mailing list that commute 70 miles each way to
>work through a major metropolitan area, work a full day and still
>have to maintain hearth and home.
>
>--
>~~~~~
>The Quote Starts Here:
> > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume
> > conversations lately geared toward SCA activities.  I get so much out the
> > higher level, 'scholarly' type threads here, and I guess I just want to 
> keep
> > it that way.
>_______________________________________________
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 13:38:37 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 15:24:34 -0800
Status: RO


>Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
>in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.

This reply just ate an hour and a half, so my first pass is what you 
get.  Where there is no group affiliation it means I am still looking for a 
group, so I have to wear the clothes whenever I can.  I'm on h-costume 
because it's got an amazing collection of costumers, who know tons of stuff 
I don't and will answer questions if I ask nice.

SCA (since 1971); interest (mostly) in German/Eastern Europe costumes 
1400-1600 and in making things for the total slice-of-life look, from 
furniture to lighting to wall hangings to tools, dishes, embroidery and 
needlework, and 'moveables'.

Renaissance Faire (since 1974); interest in costumes (German, English), 
living history (and props for), knitting, needlework and embroidery, 
crafts, manners.

Georgian (since 1976), no group; interest in the clothes and manners.

English Regency (since 1983), various groups; interest in costumes, 
embroidery and needlework, dancing.

California Gold Rush/late 1840's (since 1996), no group; interest in 
costumes, California history, living history (and props for), displaced 
Californios.

Victorian/1840-60 (since 1982 or 83), Dickens' Faire; interest in costumes 
and living history (and props for), accents, manners, dancing, embroidery 
and needlework, crochet.

Victorian/1860-65 (since 1978), looking for ACW groups; interest in 
costumes, living history (and props for).

Victorian/1880's (since 1995), trying to contact Wild West groups; interest 
in costumes, Montana Territory/State history, living history (and props 
for), women's rights movements.

Victorian/1890-1910 (since 1975+), various living history sites and events; 
interest in costumes, docent work (and props for), Craftsman needlework and 
architecture.

1920-24, (since 1990) no group; interest in costuming and needlework.

PEERS/any period (since 1996); interest costumes and dancing.

Gaskell Ocasional Dance Society/"formal, 19th and 20th century" (since 
1980); interest costumes and dancing.

Early 1950's-60's (since 1990), no group; interest in costumes, dancing

Late 1960's-early 70's (since 1974), no group; interest in costumes, Hippie 
needle-crafts, beginnings of fibre art, alternative architecture.

Ethnic (since late 60's), no group; interest in
  Central Asia/1800+, costumes, embroidery, jewelry, ikat, Amur applique
  China/1800+, costume, embroidery, cloisonne
  Eastern Europe and Balkans/1800+, costumes and embroidery
  Egypt/Coptic, costume, weaving
  India/1800+, costumes, decorated fabric, embroidery
  Japan/1500+, costume, decorated fabric, Ainu costume and needlework
  Pacific Northwest native people/1800+, costumes, weaving, wood-work, 
design, silver-work
  Palestine/1800+, costumes, embroidery, cross stitch
  Russia/1500 to Revolution, costume and embroidery
  West Africa/1600+, costumes, decorated fabric, European trade beads

I'm also interested in future costuming as seen thru the eyes of years in 
the past, like a 1900 speculation on what people might be wearing in 1950, 
or that Space Age stuff Coureges was doing in the late 60's and the Pan Am 
stewardesses in the film '2001'.  Group - science fiction or costume 
conventions.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 14:27:31 2002
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From: "Jennifer Thompson" <blue_jefiner@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 20:09:22
Status: RO

My name is Jennifer Thompson, and my main focus at the moment is on late 
15th c. and 16th, century costume.  I'm currently obsessed with Florentine 
fashions, but I am also interested in Flemish, Spanish, and German dress.  I 
love research and the more scholarly aspects of historical costume, and 
although my sewing skills aren't as good as they should be, I'm trying to 
learn as I go.

I am not affiliated with any organization, but I would like to get involved 
with a good, authenticity-minded re-enactment group if I ever live closer to 
a real city.  For the moment, I just wear my costumes to the Renaissance 
festivals here in Texas, but we live too far from them to go as often as I 
would like.  So sometimes I just wear my garb around the house and give the 
UPS man quite a surprise when he comes knocking on my door!  ;-)

-jen
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 14:33:23 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] why am I on H-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:16:56 -0600
Status: RO


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Hello all, I must admit that I do play in the SCA; however I also like th=
e Boroque, Victorian and the Edwardian periods. Basically anything that h=
as "nummy" fabrics and a hoop and makes me feel "pretty"! I am a nurse mu=
ndanely and I have to be practical with my clothing. I enjoy this list be=
cause it gives me info from people who have far more experience in sewing=
 and costuming than I could ever hope to accumulate elsewhere.  Thanks Gu=
ys!    kim  Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http://e=
xplorer.msn.com

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Hello all, I m=
ust admit that I do play in the SCA; however I also like the Boroque, Vic=
torian and the Edwardian periods. Basically anything that has&nbsp;"nummy=
" fabrics and a hoop and makes me feel&nbsp;"pretty"! I am a nurse mundan=
ely and I have to be practical with my clothing. I enjoy this list becaus=
e it gives me info&nbsp;from people who have far more experience in sewin=
g and costuming than I could ever hope to accumulate elsewhere.&nbsp; Tha=
nks Guys!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; kim&nbsp;&nbsp;<BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML><b=
r clear=3Dall><hr>Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : <a=
 href=3D'http://explorer.msn.com'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>

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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] make your own shoes?
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 11:21:50 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:08 PM 02/11/2002 -0800, Heather Meadows wrote:
>
>
>Has anyone read -- or used - this book?
>
>http://www.marywalesloomis.com
>


I have!  If you want to make variations on modern high heeled pumps,  it's
great. If you're looking for techniques to make pre 16th century shoes, or
soft flat slippers or boots, it won't do you much good. 

She has you make a plaster cast of your feet to use as a last, so it's good
for people with funny shaped feet. Her technique is actually modified from
millinery methods, stretching buckram and fabric over the last.  You still
need to buy, or salvage, heels and hardware like nails, braces, etc. 

Margo

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Subject: [h-cost] the SCA :) and other costume groups :)
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 12:08:21 -0800
Status: RO


>::Soap Box Warning::
>So, in many ways, it's the only creative outlet I have.  It kinda rubs me
>the wrong way when people roll their eyes at the fact that I do SCA, as
>though it discredits my hardwork and research that I invest in my costumes.
>I hate that the SCA has such a stigma attached to it, but I can't deny that
>I do enjoy the variety that it has to offer.  You definately get out of it
>what you put into it...

I totally agree with your last sentence quoted above.

The SCA has the costume standards it has because it was not originally set 
up as a historical-re-enactment group like, for example, the black powder 
groups.  It was originally a bunch of Hippies and Tolkein-readers 
protesting the 20th century, and having a Medieval farewell party for 
someone (writer Dianne Paxton) going away to the Peace Corps.  Over time 
'real' historians joined (and then some without the need for quotation 
marks), and the general level of costuming, and everything else, went up.

The problem is that the reputation stayed, and there's no fast/easy way to 
change it.  That the SCA isn't completely written off as 'just a costume 
party' is because of the people who really care about whatever their field 
of Medieval study is, and who maintain their own high standards.  That it 
still has its not-serious/party reputation is because of the folks who 
mostly just want to dress up and go there.  I know several of the original 
members, Ms. Paxton included, and costume scholarship just isn't their field.

I joined the SCA in it's fourth year of existence, and already there were 
members like myself who thought the usual costume level was pretty 
boring.  We all did what we could, by example and by teaching, along with 
the cooks and other crafters who cared more about their fields than about 
ours.  Things did get better.  It's easier to dress well in the SCA now 
than it was 31 years ago, if only because there are more books, patterns, 
research, pro costumers, and serious scholars now than there were 
then.  (The same goes for cooking and the other period crafts.)

The cure for my own impatience with SCA costuming was to branch out into 
other centuries, and other groups, where costuming was as important to them 
as it was to me.  That's probably the real reason I joined h-costume.  No 
matter how well the people in this group costume, and no matter why they do 
it, the costuming they do is as important to them as it is to me.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 21:37:37 +0100
Status: RO

Mmm, do you ever sleep?

Cass :)
 
> This reply just ate an hour and a half, so my first pass is what you
> get.  Where there is no group affiliation it means I am still looking for a
> group, so I have to wear the clothes whenever I can.  I'm on h-costume
> because it's got an amazing collection of costumers, who know tons of stuff
> I don't and will answer questions if I ask nice.
> 
> SCA (since 1971); interest (mostly) in German/Eastern Europe costumes
> 1400-1600 and in making things for the total slice-of-life look, from
> furniture to lighting to wall hangings to tools, dishes, embroidery and
> needlework, and 'moveables'.
> 
> Renaissance Faire (since 1974); interest in costumes (German, English),
> living history (and props for), knitting, needlework and embroidery,
> crafts, manners.
> 
> Georgian (since 1976), no group; interest in the clothes and manners.
> 
> English Regency (since 1983), various groups; interest in costumes,
> embroidery and needlework, dancing.
> 
> California Gold Rush/late 1840's (since 1996), no group; interest in
> costumes, California history, living history (and props for), displaced
> Californios.
> 
> Victorian/1840-60 (since 1982 or 83), Dickens' Faire; interest in costumes
> and living history (and props for), accents, manners, dancing, embroidery
> and needlework, crochet.
> 
> Victorian/1860-65 (since 1978), looking for ACW groups; interest in
> costumes, living history (and props for).
> 
> Victorian/1880's (since 1995), trying to contact Wild West groups; interest
> in costumes, Montana Territory/State history, living history (and props
> for), women's rights movements.
> 
> Victorian/1890-1910 (since 1975+), various living history sites and events;
> interest in costumes, docent work (and props for), Craftsman needlework and
> architecture.
> 
> 1920-24, (since 1990) no group; interest in costuming and needlework.
> 
> PEERS/any period (since 1996); interest costumes and dancing.
> 
> Gaskell Ocasional Dance Society/"formal, 19th and 20th century" (since
> 1980); interest costumes and dancing.
> 
> Early 1950's-60's (since 1990), no group; interest in costumes, dancing
> 
> Late 1960's-early 70's (since 1974), no group; interest in costumes, Hippie
> needle-crafts, beginnings of fibre art, alternative architecture.
> 
> Ethnic (since late 60's), no group; interest in
> Central Asia/1800+, costumes, embroidery, jewelry, ikat, Amur applique
> China/1800+, costume, embroidery, cloisonne
> Eastern Europe and Balkans/1800+, costumes and embroidery
> Egypt/Coptic, costume, weaving
> India/1800+, costumes, decorated fabric, embroidery
> Japan/1500+, costume, decorated fabric, Ainu costume and needlework
> Pacific Northwest native people/1800+, costumes, weaving, wood-work,
> design, silver-work
> Palestine/1800+, costumes, embroidery, cross stitch
> Russia/1500 to Revolution, costume and embroidery
> West Africa/1600+, costumes, decorated fabric, European trade beads
> 
> I'm also interested in future costuming as seen thru the eyes of years in
> the past, like a 1900 speculation on what people might be wearing in 1950,
> or that Space Age stuff Coureges was doing in the late 60's and the Pan Am
> stewardesses in the film '2001'.  Group - science fiction or costume
> conventions.
> 
> Kayta
>   //// \\\
>  ////-@@\\\
> ((((   7 )))
>  (((  <> ))))
>     )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 12:37:26 -0800
Status: RO

on 3/3/02 8:09 PM, Jennifer Thompson at blue_jefiner@hotmail.com wrote:

> My name is Jennifer Thompson,

HI JEN!!!  ::waves maniacally::

> and my main focus at the moment is on late
> 15th c. and 16th, century costume.  I'm currently obsessed with Florentine
> fashions, but I am also interested in Flemish, Spanish, and German dress.  I
> love research and the more scholarly aspects of historical costume, and
> although my sewing skills aren't as good as they should be, I'm trying to
> learn as I go.

Don't listen to her.  She's a vertiable sewing & research goddess.  ;)

> 
> I am not affiliated with any organization, but I would like to get involved
> with a good, authenticity-minded re-enactment group if I ever live closer to
> a real city.  For the moment, I just wear my costumes to the Renaissance
> festivals here in Texas, but we live too far from them to go as often as I
> would like.  So sometimes I just wear my garb around the house and give the
> UPS man quite a surprise when he comes knocking on my door!  ;-)

And what else is there in life but to make other people do double & triple
takes when they least expect it? ;)

So, since I was so into my soapbox the other day, I neglected to mention
what my specific interests are in the costuming paradygm.  As I stated
eariler, I'm loosely involved with the SCA and even more loosely involved
with faire.  I had my start at Northern, but moved away from it after I
realized that their idea of "theater" and my idea of "reality" conflicted
horribly.  Found the SCA and the shoe fit well enough to begin developing my
talents.

Interests: Um, lots of stuff.  Primarily, it's mid 14th c. Italian, early
15th c. Italian and Burgundian late 15th c. Northern/Flemish and English
clothing from 1500-1590.  The latter is what I've done the majority of my
work on.  

Authenticity is pretty much the emphasis with my clothing, but I'll never
admit to it being anywhere near authentic.  I like to get as close as I can
as far as money, resources and comfort will allow, but ultimately there is
always a point where I have to make a "cheat" in order to survive (it's no
question when it's a toss up between dying of heatstroke and wearing a 100%
wool gown in the middle of summer with all the appropriate layers of
clothing in between).

Sarah Lorraine

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Making your own linen
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:36:20 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Someone in our local ad-hoc garb-making club wants to
start with flax and spin & weave his own linen. 
Personally I think he's nuts, but I would appreciate
it if anyone can direct him to info on this.  Thanks!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

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From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 13:38:41 -0800
Status: RO

I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!

Sarah Lorraine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:27:58 +1100
Status: RO

From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>

>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.

Affiliation: Pike and Musket Society (aka Routier). Year: circa 1642.
Activities: Sewing for family of four, two of who are constantly growing,
developing embroidery interests, and with the family, making camping
equipment (as good as is practical). I also turn up to things, either assist
or organise food preparation for events. Also research and advise on the
little things that make us look good, and where to find them/how to make
them.

No other actual fixed affiliations at the moment, but family has a working
knowledge, interest, and way too many books, costumes, and accoutrements in
many ages. One concentration is Ancient Roman (mainly Roman Britain), and
all ages through to the 16th century - mainly Britain. Some of these are
getting a bit old in their research, and am currently collating research to
make more extant-piece-style garments. Number One son has expressed an
interest in the Viking influenced times in Northern Britain, so I'll have to
get him some better clothing for that period shortly.

Glenda.


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My period of choice is early 19th century--1801-1821.  Mainly American 
Federal period, trying to figure out how American women were translating the 
styles of Europe.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">My period of choice is early 19th century--1801-1821.&nbsp; Mainly American Federal period, trying to figure out how American women were translating the styles of Europe.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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I will be teaching another session of "The Early 19th Century--the Total 
Look" beginning this week.  The emphasis of this class is doing primary 
research and then interpreting it to put together a fully-accessorized look, 
primarily for living history interpreters.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I will be teaching another session of "The Early 19th Century--the Total Look" beginning this week.&nbsp; The emphasis of this class is doing primary research and then interpreting it to put together a fully-accessorized look, primarily for living history interpreters.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] the SCA :) and other costume groups :)
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:21:47 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

> The SCA has the costume standards it has because it was not originally set
> up as a historical-re-enactment group like, for example, the black powder
> groups.  It was originally a bunch of Hippies and Tolkein-readers
> protesting the 20th century, and having a Medieval farewell party for
> someone (writer Dianne Paxton) going away to the Peace Corps.  Over time
> 'real' historians joined (and then some without the need for quotation
> marks), and the general level of costuming, and everything else, went up.

While I would agree with most of this, I've heard other accounts from People
Who Were There who said that the mix was primarily Tolkien readers, fans of
Arthurian romance, and folks who had taken a medieval studies class here or
there in college (rather than hardcore hippies.  Of course, none of them
knew that what they were doing was founding a club, which explains a lot of
things about the SCA--it very much grew organically.

Sorry for the SCA digression...

Susan

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:17:38 EST
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In a message dated 3/3/02 6:16:25 PM, nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:

<< which explains a lot of things about the SCA--it very much grew 
organically. >>

As a further digression-organic IS period. Right?
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 20:11:32 -0500
Status: RO

Hello!

I'm Laurie, I've been in the SCA for about 13 years. I like to try a little
of everything, for many different periods. I prefer the post 1400's, but I
*really* like Greek chitons for summer events. Right now I'm torn b/w early
15th century English and late 15th c Italian (Venetian). Soon I'll be
entering unexplored territory, colonial American c.1750. My husband's idea,
should be interesting. If anyone can come up w/some tips for a settler's
wife, I'd appreciate it.
In reference to a current textile thread, I just picked up 5yds of grey/blue
wool sateen w/coodinating cotton brocade. The sateen was priced at
$10.00/yd, which I thought was pretty resonable for the quality.
As for the costume vs recreation, hobby vs scholar... please keep in mind
that the SCA has a bajillion active members, and we all play at the level
we're comfortable at. Some are more into the research, some prefer the "gee,
it *looks* like the picture" approach. With so many members, you'll find
just about every extreme, and then some:)

Laurie Gage
in the SCA as Isabeau de l'Isle

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 21:19:14 -0500
Status: RO

I am in the SCA, and prefer to focus on 14th, 15th and 16th Century England,
Ireland and Scotland.  I joined this list because I am the kind of person
who loves learning, and saw this as a good list to learn the proper ways,
not only of how to DO, but on how to Research how to DO.;-)  I've always
been fascinated by cultures and peoples- now I'm fascinated by clothes too.
Moira bean Eoin
(modernly Heather)
----- Original Message -----
From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 12:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


>
> In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:
>
> << > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared
toward
> SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type
threads
> here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>
>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.
If
> you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with
and
> each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
> numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
> there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
> chattier/more vocal.
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 21:12:48 -0500
Status: RO

>LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
>> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
activity. I

Ha! Where to start...
-- Scottish Highland (1745) reenactment group
-- Baggage train for Thirty Years War (1630s)
-- Misc. War of 1812 events, sometimes
-- Sometimes show up for French & Indian War Events, as my Scottish
Highland kit mostly translates (petticoat, shift, jacket, shoes)
-- Thinking about putting together a 1869 flavor outfit for the occasional
Western Shooting occasion, or just for fun
-- Thinking about putting together some Edwardian-flavor outfits, just for fun
-- "" some WW II period outfits, just for fun

<grin>

-- Mara

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Subject: [h-cost] A new learning adventure
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 21:16:19 -0500
Status: RO

I am really excited!!!  Tomorrow night I go to DuPont's manufacturing plant
to work on a Boy Scout textiles merit page with my teenage sons.  A lot of
people do not realize that DuPont manufactures a lot of man-made textiles.
The course's duration is three Mondays in March.  I can't wait to see what I
learn.

If you all want, I will report back what I learned.  BTW, this is the last
time the Richmond, VA Dupont plant will offer this course, but you might
want to check a plant near you and see if they offer the program.  This is a
great way to introduce teenager Scouts to the textile industry.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sueded and "felted" silk
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 12:10:53 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:59 AM -0500 3/1/02, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>FYI, my friend told me that no one is really sure how many silk cuccoons
>were used at a time to make thread for weaving. One thread is so fine you
>can barely see it, but some people say that as few as two were put together
>for a weaving thread. Others do not agree.

For a random data-point, after a workshop in reeling silk, I ended up 
with a spool of 20-strand silk thread which, if doubled, makes a very 
nice sewing thread.  (Not doubled, it's not quite strong enough.)  I 
could imagine weaving with the 20-strand thread, but pretty much only 
gauze-weight fabrics.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:10:56 -0800
Status: RO

I'm on this list to learn anything I can about almost any period of
costume/clothing.

My primary activity is with the SCA (19 years this June eep!) where I am
focused on early 14th Century Welsh reinactment.  I'm also working on a
costume library to help people in my area decide what they want to wear.
The goal is to not only have my online and paper library, but a binder for
each culture and time period which will have information on appropriate
fabrics(with swatches so that non-A/R folk know what it looks and feels
like), embellishments, colours and silhouettes.  A lot of the locals in my
area rely on Norris and Peacock for their inspiration, and I'd like to have
other things available for people.

I've also been involved in Black Powder/Rendevous and Pioneer reinactment,
Renaissance Faires, and invited to join a Dicken's Choral Group.

I want to know a little bit about most eras up to about the 1890's, and be
conversant with the differences in styles, whether European, Eurasian, or
other.

Angharat







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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:43:08 -0800
Status: RO

I thought that wearing my Tibetan Panel Coat and some other clothing would
be fun while traipsing the Northwest Sewing Expo yesterday.

Because of its, shall we say eye-catching quality, I was requested by the
Needle Arts Guild to prepare an hour long presentation, with an hour of
questions afterwards for next year.

The gist of what I am understanding is that they would like to have me bring
in some of the work I am doing for my interests-whether historical or for
science fiction/fantasy conventions, so long as it has needlework involved,
and talk about it. They are looking for more things to raise interest in
people, and to encourage people to do more needlework.

Since I'd have 17 months to prepare for this, I thought I would give it a
try.  However, I've never been the main speaker for anything, especially not
for anything interesting like costuming or embellishments, nor have I ever
had to speak for more than ten minutes.

I know a lot of you have experience in this and was wondering how some of
you might advise on how to approach and tighten up a subject like this.

My first impression is to pick one central time frame and show how people
now are using needle arts to recreate that time period-whether the Middle
Ages, Elizabethan, Regency or something else.  In all honesty, I would
probably need to pick the Middle Ages, simply because I personally have the
most information and finished projects in this area, and will be working on
7 more for the local Costumer's Guild Challenges this fall.

Does this sound like it could be a feasible start on a topic?

Angharat



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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 20:02:56 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
>the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
>Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
>hoods,

Truthfully, this _is_ how I constructed my first one, based on what
I was seeing in paintings.  I also decided that without constructing a
real block for a buckram frame, it was a pain to stiffen.  Then I came
across everyone else's two-piece french hoods and slapped myself on the
forehead.  "Duh!  That's SOOOOOO much eaiser to do!"  I'm almost always
under time constraints for costumes, and hats are the one frivolity I
permit myself to spend a lot of time messing with.  But I'm still not
up to making my own hat blocks, or completely wiring a non-framed piece
just so it'll stand up.  

Oh god, I just remembered the first hat I made.  I used copper wire and
Pellon for the frame.  The Pellon at least solved the problem of "how do
I pad out this sucker?"  I've since learned more period methods.  The 
spoon bonnet I made used red flannel as padding (red silk dupioni cover).
Come to think of it, I may still have the buckram frame for that first
french hood attempt up on a shelf somewhere...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] the SCA :) and other costume groups :)
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 20:08:25 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

"Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> [...]
> , and folks who had taken a medieval studies class here or
> there in college (rather than hardcore hippies.  Of course, none of them
> knew that what they were doing was founding a club, which explains a lot of
> things about the SCA--it very much grew organically.

Most of the "hippies" in Berkeley _were_ students.  Take a look at the 
footage of student protests in "Berkeley in the 60s."  Funnier, one of
my friends' parents were among that first little group that formed the
SCA and they were out at the People's Park protests in armor.  Which 
I suppose isn't too stupid an idea if you're pretty sure a riot is
going to happen.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:02:24 -0800
Status: RO


> >Has anyone read -- or used - this book?
> >
> >http://www.marywalesloomis.com
> >
>
>
>I have!  If you want to make variations on modern high heeled pumps,  it's
>great. If you're looking for techniques to make pre 16th century shoes, or
>soft flat slippers or boots, it won't do you much good.
>
>She has you make a plaster cast of your feet to use as a last, so it's good
>for people with funny shaped feet. Her technique is actually modified from
>millinery methods, stretching buckram and fabric over the last.  You still
>need to buy, or salvage, heels and hardware like nails, braces, etc.

The method is great for about 1600 onward, except for maybe 1800 thru the 
1840's.  Shoes and boots.


Kayta
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Subject: wool in Summer (was Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:33:55 -0800
Status: RO


>I like to get as close as I can
>as far as money, resources and comfort will allow, but ultimately there is
>always a point where I have to make a "cheat" in order to survive (it's no
>question when it's a toss up between dying of heatstroke and wearing a 100%
>wool gown in the middle of summer with all the appropriate layers of
>clothing in between).

The Landsknechten at Northern have figured out how to do the 
wool-plus-underlayers thing in a California Summer, and I'm here to tell 
you it's possible, even livable.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:37:20 -0800
Status: RO

Gosh, that's what I always thought.  And why I thought it.

>Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
>hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
>morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
>anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
>clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!


Kayta
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:52:00 -0800
Status: RO

Sleep?  Is sleeping period?

Oh, I forgot the ECW thing I did, and would like to get more into, as 
there's a local group forming.  Sure I sleep.  I just don't go to as many 
events as I'd like to.

>Mmm, do you ever sleep?
>
>Cass :)
>
> > This reply just ate an hour and a half, so my first pass is what you
> > get.  Where there is no group affiliation it means I am still looking for a
> > group, so I have to wear the clothes whenever I can.  I'm on h-costume
> > because it's got an amazing collection of costumers, who know tons of stuff
> > I don't and will answer questions if I ask nice.
> >
> > SCA (since 1971); interest (mostly) in German/Eastern Europe costumes
> > 1400-1600 and in making things for the total slice-of-life look, from
> > furniture to lighting to wall hangings to tools, dishes, embroidery and
> > needlework, and 'moveables'.
> >
> > Renaissance Faire (since 1974); interest in costumes (German, English),
> > living history (and props for), knitting, needlework and embroidery,
> > crafts, manners.
> >
> > Georgian (since 1976), no group; interest in the clothes and manners.
> >
> > English Regency (since 1983), various groups; interest in costumes,
> > embroidery and needlework, dancing.
> >
> > California Gold Rush/late 1840's (since 1996), no group; interest in
> > costumes, California history, living history (and props for), displaced
> > Californios.
> >
> > Victorian/1840-60 (since 1982 or 83), Dickens' Faire; interest in costumes
> > and living history (and props for), accents, manners, dancing, embroidery
> > and needlework, crochet.
> >
> > Victorian/1860-65 (since 1978), looking for ACW groups; interest in
> > costumes, living history (and props for).
> >
> > Victorian/1880's (since 1995), trying to contact Wild West groups; interest
> > in costumes, Montana Territory/State history, living history (and props
> > for), women's rights movements.
> >
> > Victorian/1890-1910 (since 1975+), various living history sites and events;
> > interest in costumes, docent work (and props for), Craftsman needlework and
> > architecture.
> >
> > 1920-24, (since 1990) no group; interest in costuming and needlework.
> >
> > PEERS/any period (since 1996); interest costumes and dancing.
> >
> > Gaskell Ocasional Dance Society/"formal, 19th and 20th century" (since
> > 1980); interest costumes and dancing.
> >
> > Early 1950's-60's (since 1990), no group; interest in costumes, dancing
> >
> > Late 1960's-early 70's (since 1974), no group; interest in costumes, Hippie
> > needle-crafts, beginnings of fibre art, alternative architecture.
> >
> > Ethnic (since late 60's), no group; interest in
> > Central Asia/1800+, costumes, embroidery, jewelry, ikat, Amur applique
> > China/1800+, costume, embroidery, cloisonne
> > Eastern Europe and Balkans/1800+, costumes and embroidery
> > Egypt/Coptic, costume, weaving
> > India/1800+, costumes, decorated fabric, embroidery
> > Japan/1500+, costume, decorated fabric, Ainu costume and needlework
> > Pacific Northwest native people/1800+, costumes, weaving, wood-work,
> > design, silver-work
> > Palestine/1800+, costumes, embroidery, cross stitch
> > Russia/1500 to Revolution, costume and embroidery
> > West Africa/1600+, costumes, decorated fabric, European trade beads
> >
> > I'm also interested in future costuming as seen thru the eyes of years in
> > the past, like a 1900 speculation on what people might be wearing in 1950,
> > or that Space Age stuff Coureges was doing in the late 60's and the Pan Am
> > stewardesses in the film '2001'.  Group - science fiction or costume
> > conventions.
> >
> > Kayta
> >   //// \\\
> >  ////-@@\\\
> > ((((   7 )))
> >  (((  <> ))))
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> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
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Kayta
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  h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:48:07 -0800
Status: RO


>As for the costume vs recreation, hobby vs scholar... please keep in mind
>that the SCA has a bajillion active members, and we all play at the level
>we're comfortable at. Some are more into the research, some prefer the "gee,
>it *looks* like the picture" approach. With so many members, you'll find
>just about every extreme, and then some:)

Everyone seems to have their own authenticity bug.  And people who are 
authentic in one field are usually not in some other field.  My costumes 
are such that I get called a 'costume Laurel' in the SCA, and I've been a 
historical judge at 3 different CostumeCons.  OTOH, at mealtimes I sneak 
off to my car, open a can of something, and stick the spoon right in it to 
eat, no heat, no preparation.  (An 'iced tea' spoon will reach all the way 
to the bottom of a can of soup and still stick out far enough to not get 
your fingers icky.)  I am in awe of real cooks.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar  4 02:25:17 2002
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:07:27 -0000
Status: RO

On 2 Mar 2002 at 18:56, Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Sat, 2 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> > Can I take any of those pretty pictures as being accurate, useful, or
> > anything else?

> As redrawings go, some of these are really quite good; Shaw is a more
> faithful copyist than some of his contemporaries. .....
 
> The best use is this: If you see something in here you like, you can then
> track down the original and work from that. If you don't know where to
> find the original, give a holler -- I could put my fingers on half of
> those images within 60 seconds on my own bookshelf, and I bet there are
> others on this list who could do the same.

Well, the one I'm interested in at present is a collection of C14 headdresses, on page 
149

http://www.williams.nildram.co.uk/crafts/c14headdresses_sm.jpg

(Those who are gently guiding me in the direction of Doing Things Right suggest that I 
really ought to be wearing something on my head).

So I'm staring at that little lot, wondering how to make any of them and which is the 
most practical.

Finding the original: Shaw says "The manuscript to which we refer appears to have 
been written and illuminated toward the south of France, during the reign (1364-1380) 
of Charles V. It was formerly in the Lamoignon Collection, from which it passed to the 
library of the Duke of Roxburghe, from whom it was purchased by the trustees of the 
British Museum ..... It is a fine manuscript on vellum, contaiing a copy of the French 
text of the Romance of King Meliadus..... battle scenes, varied now and then with 
tournaments. The latter are always accompanied by numerous figures of ladies, as 
spectators, amd have furnished us with the greater part of the subjects on the facing 
page..."


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Subject: [h-cost] New Corsetry book-Foundations of Fashion
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:13:46 -0000
Status: RO

For those interested in undergarments :)

Foundations of Fashion by Philip Warren

The Symington Corsetry collection 1860-1990

Fashionable corsetry, foundation wear and swimwear, from the collections of
this famous Leicestershire manufacturer, producer of the famous Liberty
bodice. Original advertising, photos, factory equipment

Either direct from corsetry@outofprintbooks.co.uk or via www.bookavenue.com

Mel
.

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:10:22 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

As requested:

Affiliation:  The Tudor Group
Preferred Year: 1560-1603
Preferred Activity: Living history group - so we do scenes from everyday living - I mainly do
textiles.

Definately interested in the scholarly aspects.

Rachel

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:46:41 +0000
Status: RO

Affiliation : The Sealed Knot (English Civil War reenactment) for past 25 years, and a music group which is an offshoot of same.
Years: 1630s/40s
Activities: Nowadays, civilian living history (music and some knitting/lucetting)
and playing music at historic houses.

(The SK is another society which started more than 30 years ago with members in makeshift "fancy dress" and has gradually moved towards greater accuracy. Because we're a very big society with some members more interested in battles (and beer) than costume, some of the smaller and more tightly controlled reenactment groups are inclined to sneer, but the living history section works hard to be as authentic as possible.)

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date id of German doll head
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 11:28:04 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> Does it cost an arm and a leg to make the reproductions? I've seen
> pictures of reproduced Bru and Jumeau heads that are incredible. I
> really don't need another expensive hobby and I already have boxes
> of dolls with no place to display them. But...I fell in love with
> this Jumeau. 
> 
> Beth

It's been quite a number of years since I made any porcellaine dolls 
but I doubt the relative costs have gone up much.   There are 
several ways of doing it.  You could buy the doll parts ready made 
and assemble and dress (historical costume content!!..<G>) the 
dolls yourself, this gives you the choice of hair colour and style too 
as you can buy the heads without the wigs and choose the eye-
colour you want too... You could buy readt made but undressed 
dolls to dress for yourself, or you could invest in the moulds for the 
heads you particularly like and start producing your own for the cost 
of the slip (liquid clay) and other materials, plus the firing costs (if 
you have acdcess to somewhere with a kiln that will fire your 
pieces for you) or by getting your own small kiln (bigger initial 
investment, cheaper in the long run) and firing your own.  This 
works out especailly well if you buy moulds for lots of different 
heads but of the same size - that way you only nees one set of 
hand and feet moulds that you can use for all the heads.

If you're relly interested in getting more info, check out some of the 
doll making magazines (there must be websites too, but i haven't 
looked) ... there may be a place in your area doing beginners 
classes in porcellaine doll making.

As to heads pirated from original dolls, they tend to be smaller than 
the originals as the clay shrinks in the drying and firing process.  
The pirated mould is taken from the (already shrunk) finished doll 
head, the heads made from that mould are slightly smaller (I forget 
how much) because they shrink once dryed and fired.

Hope this helps

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] rubber-backing (WAS: Teddy/Orange.. got me too)
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 11:41:56 +0000 (GMT)
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> I've always wondered if there was any way to remove the rubber
> backing. Has anyone ever tried to? laurie

I've had *some* luck with boiling the fabric - it's hit and miss 
though.  I have two lengths of the same fabric that were both 
backed.  I boiled both (seperately, they wouldn't fit in the machine 
together) and one came out with the backing flakey so it could be 
rubbed/peeled, the other didn't change at all.
 
Teddy

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda and Orange.. riiiighhttt.
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 11:37:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> That's what we all need to see Teddy.
> 
> An enourmous 50 year old woman decked out in a neon orange
> Elizabethan costume. 

The bigger you are, the more there is to display the fabric on... that 
can be seen as an advantage, you know.... and the colour isn't 
exactly neon - unless the colour is off a *lot* on my monitor your 
scan of the fabric, it's into the duller range by my standards.  Just 
look on it as a challenge to make the outfit look sophisticated and 
sumptuous rather than just *LOUD*

> It would give small children and animals nightmares for years!
> LOL...

Toughens them up for life.  You should ask some of my firends 
about the teenage boys I've worried while wearing my Rocky Horror 
outfit in public.  

http://www.sfgoth.com/~tenebrae/teddy/rh.html

I'd be willing to bet that they think twice about taking out their 
attitude problems on anyone who dresses "wierd" after they've 
encountered me.....  <evil-bunny grin>
 
> Who knows maybe I will find the right client for it.  :)

That would be good too.
 
> Now all I have to do is get the moth ball smell out of it.. why anyone
> would store polyester fabric in moth balls.

They go for polyester too, so do carpet beetle - not as much but it 
does happen.

I still find it a crying shame that these fabrics are made in 
polyesters instead of all in natural fibres.   I will resort to polycotton 
belends simply because it's cheaper to buy and there's often 
more/better choice of colour and patern in the available polyblemd 
fabrics than in natural fibre brocades and adamasks at affordable 
prices

Teddy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:14:46 +0000 (GMT)
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> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
> send in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
> activity. If you belong to more than one group, include all the groups
> you play with and each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep
> a tally and send the numbers in when I'm done. 

Several groups, one similar period coverage to but *not* SCA. one 
15th century, mostly Wars of the Roses, until recently, also one 
17th century - English Civil War group.

Also interested in most periods up to 1840s (mens) or 1930s 
(womens) with a definate gap for both around the later 17th century 
when mens and womens clothing was (in *my* opinion) just plain 
*ugly* .....<G>

Mostly I do late(ish) 15th and some 16th century stuff.

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Teddy and other orange freaks;)
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 01:30:37 +1300
Status: RO

Tangerine, wool, 150cm wide, $NZ5/m

That's like less than $US2 per yard.

I do not know just what i am going to do with 5m of the stuff, but I'm
thinking of a full length coat trimmed with black with wool embroidery,
lined in blue. So called "mundane wear, but not.

Or should I do some real german ren stuff.

I'm torn, I'll get some wear and jaw drops with the coat idea, but it
screams Cranach.

really just wanted to make a few people envious with this post;)

I'm still stunned by the price, I really am. It's a furnishings shop... why
can't fashion fabrics stores here have the same kind of sales????

michaela
orange freak from childhood. So now I have hair to match;)
http://recital.tripod.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A pot to ... in
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:45:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I can't say I've ever had any serious shrinkage accidents. Mind you I
> make most of my stuff so that it doesn't need to be washed, and the
> under layers are mostly linen, which doesn't seem to shrink much, and
> loose which doesn't matter if they do. I always wash on cold anyway.
> That probably helps. The most troubles I've had when washing have been
> when some friendly person has decided to help out with washing and
> thrown hand-wash only stuff into the washer, or washed on warm stuff
> which has only ever been washed on cold.

Ah... well, most of my stuff gets washed right along with my 
everyday clothes (lots of it get *worn* as everyday clothes too) 
andthe only way I sort my washing is by colour with the occasional 
delicates wash for knitted sweaters.  If it needs hand-washing, I 
don't own it.

Most of my stuff *needs* washing.  Appart from mud and dirt from 
just being at outdoor events (sometimes soaked upas far as the 
knee at winter events or very wet "English Summer" ones) there's 
stains from spillages (serving or just accidents at fearsts) children 
(grubby and stuicky hands dirty shoue when I'm carrying, plus the 
rolling on the floor wlie playing with them,  and all the marks from 
brushing aginst dirty stuff in big costumes where it's pretty 
unavoidable (full length houpellande with big dagged sleeves in a 
narrow staircase up the tower of a 12 the century castle, for 
example).

I'm not a tidy person, and I don't tend to avoid things that could 
prove dirty or messy... my stuf *has* to be washable...<G>

Of course, now that I'm King, I get ordered out of the kitchens and 
back to High Table if I try and wander in to help serve or wash up 
during a feast...<grump!>

Teddy

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, King of the Far-Isles, part-time Knave, Creature of
air and darkness, and Hairdresser of Death apparently!)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 07:09:49 -0600
Status: RO

I was infected by the costuming bug at the tender age of 14 when I joined
a Rev War group thru the auspices of a Senior Girl Scout troop. I was
already predisposed to a costuming obsession due to an unhealthy interest
in playing dress up as a child. I went on to participate in the SCA (and
still do when other activities permit), and then I got assimilated by the
RenFaire and have been concentrating on later 16th century ever since. In
the SCA my persona is technically an Anglo-Saxon, but I've always loved
the cotehardie styles and would like to get more proficient at them. I'm
also getting into Victorian these days and would love a good excuse to
make Cavalier.....and I've done a bit of Regency. 

I've been on h-costume since summer of '97, and I've enjoyed both the
discussions we've had on the board, and meeting folks from the list in
person (Hi Teddy, Mel, Danielle, Melanie, Drea, Deb, and everyone else
I've had the pleasure of meeting). This list is a constant source of
inspiration!


Karen
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From: The Duchess <duchess@bustles-and-bows.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 13:09:20 +0000
Status: RO

At 12:47 02/03/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.

No affiliation as I haven't found any group in my era of preference 
(1880's) so I just attend whatever festivals etc that I can locate.

Lissa aka Elizabeth, Duchess of Woking by decree of HRH Queen Victoria 
(Ilfracombe)

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:43:53 -0000
Status: RO

Can we get some

Mel

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 06:55:46 -0700
Status: RO

Hey....definitely good legs...but doesn't it get a little -uhm- cool?
when worn in public <weg>
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> 

> Toughens them up for life.  You should ask some of my firends
> about the teenage boys I've worried while wearing my Rocky Horror
> outfit in public.
> 
> http://www.sfgoth.com/~tenebrae/teddy/rh.html
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:18:30 EST
Status: RO

If you are trying to appeal to a broad audience, I think the Middle Ages 
might be, or seem, like a turn-off.  But you are right, you do need a way to 
organize your topic, and you probably do want to show a variety of techniques 
and ideas.  Maybe a "through time and place"--one technique from one time 
period, another from another.  What kinds of needlework seem really big where 
you are, and how can you tie in to that enthusiasm?  Quilting, for example, 
seems big all over, and many of those people (forgive me, list members, if 
you are among them) seem to be real fanatics.  (Not that we costume people 
are fanatics!  If I put all that time and effort into a project, I want to 
wear it!)
This sounds like a great opportunity for you.  Are they paying you, I hope?
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar  4 09:45:23 2002
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Date: Mon,  4 Mar 2002 09:20:44 -0600
Status: RO

> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list> send in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
> activity. If you belong to more than one group, include all the groups
> you play with and each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep
> a tally and send the numbers in when I'm done. 

My name is ALexandria and I'm a garbaholic- oops, that's a different group.

I've been doing SCA off and on as life allows for just about 12 years.  My main interest is late Elizabethan, but when asked, or the spark happens, I'll make Norse to Cavalier, for friends, family and myself.  I have a couple of eras that I also wear besides the Elizabethan, include Byzantium, circa 1000, and Venetian, circa 1500, and since signing up with an earlier period laurel, I've also started adding a lot of 14th century stuff. One of my goals in life is to have something from every era and country in the SCA period, whether it's a life size copy or for a doll display.  I figure I have a life expectancy of another 40-50 years, I might make it..

Alex
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy and other orange freaks;)
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 15:22:14 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Tangerine, wool, 150cm wide, $NZ5/m
> 
> That's like less than $US2 per yard.

Wow!
 
> I do not know just what i am going to do with 5m of the stuff, but I'm
> thinking of a full length coat trimmed with black with wool
> embroidery, lined in blue. So called "mundane wear, but not.
> 
> Or should I do some real german ren stuff.
> 
> I'm torn, I'll get some wear and jaw drops with the coat idea, but it
> screams Cranach.
> 
> really just wanted to make a few people envious with this post;)

Well, you've succeded.
 
> orange freak from childhood. So now I have hair to match;)
> http://recital.tripod.com

Love some of the fantasy stuff....

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda and Orange.. riiiighhttt.
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 15:30:24 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Hey....definitely good legs...but doesn't it get a little -uhm- cool?
> when worn in public <weg> --sue

> > http://www.sfgoth.com/~tenebrae/teddy/rh.html

Depends where and when the "public" is.... I've travelled by tube 
(underground train) through London to get to the theatre dressed in 
that outfit (alone and with groups of friends) I've walked through 
various towns (including various bits of London)... ok that's mostly 
in the summer, though there was the time I got changed in the 
sports-club next door to the Royal Free Hospital in Hampstead 
(where I was working at the time) and had to travel by train to 
Wimbledon (where the theatre was) during a fairly chilly February 
Evening so I put on a little red crushed velvet dress for the journey 
and shimmied out of it when I reached the lobbey of the theatre 
(much to the amazement and of the young man who had just 
handed me my ticket and thought I was a girl until I dropped the 
dress....<Evil grin!>)

Teddy
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 10:43:32 -0500
Status: RO

Pardon my de-lurking...
Yes, I'm one of the ones who doesn't pipe up too often.

I am not in SCA.
Affiliated with no groups, except Costume Society of America.
Theatre Costume Design student.
Don't do too much actual costume-making for myself - no where to wear it!
Most interested in learning actual historical details, thus I appreciate the SCAdians -  
and all - who have really gotten in and studied the minutiae.
Preferred years of study - 1885 to 1935 - and underwear in all time periods.

Back to silent-mode,
Kathy Hoover



 Everybody on list send in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. 
If you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and 
each will get a fraction toward the total. 

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Subject: Re: playing at different levels (was Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:57:26 EST
Status: RO

Giggle:) thanks for the tip on the 'ice tea spoon, Kayta, I'll make a note of 
that!!! When I'm desperate and short on time:)
Although my main focus is costumning and embroidery--I do love cooking---and 
have done several feasts throughout  my SCA years, where I tried to be as 
authentic as possible for the time period I was working in. 
I can also relate to what Teddy was saying about being' booted out of the 
kitchen while  being King'----when I became Crown Princess for our local SCA 
Kingdom---a week before the huge  period Roman  feast I'd planned-----no one 
warned me that the day I showed up to do my feast  it would be 'yanked out 
from under me':( I was really , really disappointed.And am still 'miffed' 
after all these years--that I never did get to cook my Roman feast :( On the 
other hand, I get to do a French early 16th century one later this month--:) 
In time --perhaps, I can talk them into another Roman one --(evil grin)
Albra/Kathryn
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:08:23 -0800
Status: RO

I would be interested in this information also, as I'm considering
weaving my own linen for a 14th century chemise.

Colleen

-----Original Message-----
From: Joan Garner [mailto:joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 1:36 PM
To: costume list
Subject: [h-cost] Making your own linen


Someone in our local ad-hoc garb-making club wants to
start with flax and spin & weave his own linen. 
Personally I think he's nuts, but I would appreciate
it if anyone can direct him to info on this.  Thanks!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:16:22 -0600
Status: RO

It makes sense to me as well. Also the french hood's shape would be more
flattering to its younger, and probably, at first, mostly unmarried, earlier
wearers, especially in England. One got to show at least a little of one's
crowning glory and didn't have the heavy lappets of the gable hood to act as
:blinders to a degree. The so-called gable-hood, was probably intentionally
unflattering to most as matrons and older women were not supposed to be
slaves to their appearance. Jane Seymore, as Queen, banned the French Hood
to her ladies-in-waiting and other attendants. Historians assumed that she
did so so as to be id'ed as more moral than Anne Boleyn, but a later
portrait of Anne, as well as her coronation medal portray her in an English
gable hood in the same style as Jane's famous portrait.

Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 11:35:41 EST
Status: RO

> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. 

I was in SCA while I was in college, but had to drop due to time constraints 
after graduation.  (You can't fit three-day weekends and six-day workweeks 
into the same Gregorian calendar week.)  I majored in theater, and have a 
strong interest in history, the two of those are what got me interested in 
costuming.  Most of my costuming in recent years has been for my nephew for 
Halloween, but I'm hoping to start sewing more stuff for me.

Leah
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 08:51:07 -0800
Status: RO

Why am I on H-costume?  It doesn't actually have much to do with groups
with which I'm affiliated.  I'm on H-costume because it's my community.  

I joined the list when I was a stay home mother with a newborn and a three
year old.  I had no money to spend on fabric, and I couldn't get much
sewing done because there was always a child in my lap.  H-costume rescued
me from the crushing loneliness of motherhood and gave me a group of people
I could talk to about the things that interested me, even if I did have to
do all my posting one handed because I was breastfeeding the baby while
typing!

When we moved, I found myself in a small town where the only costuming is
of the polyester saloon girl Old West variety.  I decided to try teaching
classes through the Parls and Rec department, and the list was there to
answer my questions, offer advice, and cheer me on when I wrote the
syllabuses (syllabi?) for my Elizabethan and Gold Rush classes.  

I found a somewhat local group of costumers, when the Sacramento chapter of
the International Costumers Guild had its inception on the list.  

And, when an out of the blue I was offered the opportunity to start my
pattern business, you were there for me again, offering advice on
everything from pattern drafting software to packaging, helping me find my
way when I realized things  I thought I knew were wrong, and cheerleading
me through the two years it took to make my dream come true.  

The time I've been on this list has been the most rewarding, artistically,
technically, and yes, it's beginning to look like financially, of my life,
and I owe a huge part of it to the members and administrators.  I don't say
it often enough, so let me finish this valentine by saying thank you to
each and every one of you.  I love you guys!

Margo




"One Tough Costumer"

Costume Classes in Northern California:  www.margospatterns.com/mayclass.htm

See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 18:50:10 +0100
Status: RO

 
> I found a somewhat local group of costumers, when the Sacramento chapter of
> the International Costumers Guild had its inception on the list.
> 
> And, when an out of the blue I was offered the opportunity to start my
> pattern business, you were there for me again, offering advice on
> everything from pattern drafting software to packaging, helping me find my
> way when I realized things  I thought I knew were wrong, and cheerleading
> me through the two years it took to make my dream come true.

Hi Margo!

Hopefully in the two months I will be able to show some of the fruits of
your labor - I've gotten your patterns and they will help with my own dress
:))) I have started looking through the manuals and they look really good!

As soon as the project is finished (it has to be done by May 1!) I will try
to get picture on line!

Cass :)

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy and other orange freaks;)
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 12:47:52 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

So why not make both the coat and the cranach gown? <g>  At $2/yard, why
not?


On Tue, 5 Mar 2002, michaela wrote:

> Tangerine, wool, 150cm wide, $NZ5/m
>
> That's like less than $US2 per yard.
>
> I do not know just what i am going to do with 5m of the stuff, but I'm
> thinking of a full length coat trimmed with black with wool embroidery,
> lined in blue. So called "mundane wear, but not.
>
> Or should I do some real german ren stuff.
>
> I'm torn, I'll get some wear and jaw drops with the coat idea, but it
> screams Cranach.
>

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From: " Sarah Goodman" <lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 01:44:22 +0800
Status: RO

Well, I did play around with this last night and I learned a few things.  First, this style of hood makes a dead-on replica of the earliest french hood style that was somewhere between henin lappet and french hood (the portrait of Catherine of Aragon as a young woman is a good example).  The other thing I learned is that it doesn't give enough of a "coronet" effect.  I wired the edge and it didn't help much.  Those of you who have made this work, how did you get the turned back edge to "stand up", if you will, to give the appropriate coronet, as with the later style of hood (1540's)?  Is there still a seperate structure that the hood part attaches to via the billiments or am I just going about this all wrong?  

BTW, I was going off of Norris' pattern in _Tudor Fashion_ if that has something to do with it.  He's pretty vague about the construction right about 1540 or so; he hints that the coronet part becomes a seperate piece right about this time, but his illustrations suggest that they're still one piece.  Argh.

Sarah

-----Original Message-----
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:37:20 -0800 
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...


> Gosh, that's what I always thought.  And why I thought it.
> 
> >Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
> >a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
> >least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
> >99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
> >hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
> >evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
> >morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
> >anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
> >clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!
> 
> 
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

-- 


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Subject: [h-cost] Why I'm here
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 17:46:35
Status: RO

Affiliation: SCA

Want to affiliate with (when I have more money): International Costumers 
Guild, Embroiderers Guild of America, American Sewing Guild

Time Periods/Geography: Renaissance Italy (my SCA persona), Islamic areas 
(my husbands' persona), with occasional forays into Tudor (my wedding 
dress), Elizabethan, and 12th c. England

My first exposure to Historical Reenactment was as a Girl Scout - we had a 
camping event at a local Living Historical Farm in Central Ohio - 1870's - 
1880's. There I learned to hand quilt, which I am going to take up again 
Someday.

My first exposure to sewing/needlework was definitely in the womb - my 
mother is an accomplished needleworker - sewing, knitting, crochet, 
needlepoint. (she recently picked up shuttle tatting) She used to compete at 
the Ohio State Fair and won a LOT of awards.

I joined the list back in 1999, and it's because of an almost compulsive 
need to Do It Right. I love seeing the pictures of people's projects, and 
the conversations on how things were done. I especially love being able to 
ask about people's experience with different techniques - like lacing holes.

Mary K. Temple
Austin, Texas
SCA:
Lady Katerine Rowley
Bryn Gwlad, Ansteorra

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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the SCA :) and other costume groups :)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:43:07 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Another factor that helps to explain the lower overall
costuming standards in the SCA is that there are no
spectators.  There are people who want to come to
events just for the fighting, or the partying, or the
shopping, or the dancing, or, or.  The rules state
that in order to even be present, you have to be
wearing "an attempt at pre-1600 clothing," yet not
everyone actually cares about detail.  At Ren Faires
the performers hold themselves to one standard
(probably varies by faire), and the visitors get to do
whatever they want; also at other living history
events there are the re-enactors, and the spectators,
who do not dress up.  And no one confuses the people
who aren't making a serious study with those who are. 
Since, in the SCA, anyone who wants to participate at
all is a "member" (paid member of the official
organization or not, they're usually treated as a
member by the local group), of course your overall
standard will be lower.

My two cents.

-Angela
known in the SCA as Wentlian Harper, and trying also
to become known for beautiful and authentic clothing -
thanks to all here for helping me pursue that goal.


--- Susan Carroll-Clark <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
wrote:
> Greetings--
> 
> > The SCA has the costume standards it has because
> it was not originally set
> > up as a historical-re-enactment group like, for
> example, the black powder
> > groups.  

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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 11:16:37 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

My current list of costuming projects I'd like to do
includes (in no real order):

-Elizabethan
-Tudor
-14th century European (haven't really narrowed it
down much more than that)
-14-16th century Persian
-16th century Ottoman Turkish
-16th century European's idea of Ottoman clothing
(this is what I think of when someone says "historical
costuming")
-Italian Renaissance
-Edwardian
-Victorian
-ACW or antebellum, haven't narrowed it down yet

I am active in the SCA, and it provides a great place
to wear the 16th c. & earlier stuff.  I had been
planning to make the later stuff just for fun but
didn't really have anywhere to wear them, until I
recently found out about a dance group in my area that
centers around 1840-1910 (I'm not sure if that's
exactly right).  Although I haven't yet managed to go
to any of their "tea dances" or balls, I plan to get
involved at some point.

Additionally, my boyfriend wants one of those jackets
with the high collar, I think it's 1795ish, that I
will make for him for just fancy dress wear.  Also, I
guess I have agreed to build him a 12th century Welsh
wardrobe (in exchange for him driving me to the fabric
store every time I want to go, since I don't have a
car).  We also occasionally do various ethnic or
historically themed clothing just for fancy dress or
everyday wear.  I am less concerned with authenticity,
and more willing to blend in modern materials or
stylings, when I'm not planning on wearing an item to
a reenactment event.

I have really enjoyed the enthusiasm about "getting
the details right" for historical clothing, that I
have seen on this list in the time that I've been here
(don't remember when I joined, but I remember being
here a year ago and probably before).  Also, it's a
great resource for pointing me in the right direction
when I decide I want to embark on a new era or style
that I don't as yet know anything about.

Like many on this list, I was bit by the costuming bug
at a young age.  Before my mother (a homemaker and
seamstress) would allow me to use the sewing machine,
she did let me sit at it with the power off, and I
would "gather" cloth onto the needle and pretend to
sew.  Of course I played dress-up, but I also enjoyed
taking big remnants of cloth from my mother's
projects, and designing various togas and saris for
myself.  Then a BA in theatrical costuming set me well
on my way to a desk job and a wonderful hobby. :)

-Angela


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References: <sc834ff3.086@wvugrpwise1.wvu.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:33:59 -0500
Status: RO

<<<from one redhead to another>>>

Hi Kathy!!!!!!  Making your bi-annual visit out of  the Land of Lurkdom!!!
And when do you graduate?????

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


> Pardon my de-lurking...
> Yes, I'm one of the ones who doesn't pipe up too often.
>
> I am not in SCA.
> Affiliated with no groups, except Costume Society of America.
> Theatre Costume Design student.
> Don't do too much actual costume-making for myself - no where to wear it!
> Most interested in learning actual historical details, thus I appreciate
the SCAdians -
> and all - who have really gotten in and studied the minutiae.
> Preferred years of study - 1885 to 1935 - and underwear in all time
periods.
>
> Back to silent-mode,
> Kathy Hoover



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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:14:11 -0800
Status: RO


>Giggle:) thanks for the tip on the 'ice tea spoon, Kayta, I'll make a note of
>that!!! When I'm desperate and short on time:)
>Although my main focus is costumning and embroidery--I do love cooking---and
>have done several feasts throughout my SCA years, where I tried to be as
>authentic as possible for the time period I was working in.

I have authentic-looking place settings, and table manners, for all the 
characters/periods I usually do, for events where you bring those and 
someone else cooks.  At events where I can buy food from a booth, I dump 
their food onto my dishes and eat it in front of the mundane tourists, 
using table manners appropriate to the social class of my 
character/costume.  This is especially fun when I have just sneaked away 
from a Victorian/Edwardian event, still in costume, and gone to a fast food 
place.  Yes, hamburgers and french fries can be eaten with knife and fork, 
while still wearing ones gloves.  I'm making a Victorian knife and fork 
carrier from a Godey's, intended for use while traveling, just for 
this.  But when I don't have to eat in public, it's the cans in the car, or 
leftovers in Tupperware in the ice chest.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:50:54 -0800
Status: RO

Lee M. Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> > [...]
> > , and folks who had taken a medieval studies class here or
> > there in college (rather than hardcore hippies.  Of course, none of
> > them knew that what they were doing was founding a club, which
> > explains a lot of things about the SCA--it very much grew
> > organically.
> 
> Most of the "hippies" in Berkeley _were_ students.  Take a look at the
> footage of student protests in "Berkeley in the 60s."  Funnier, one of
> my friends' parents were among that first little group that formed the
> SCA and they were out at the People's Park protests in armor.  Which I
> suppose isn't too stupid an idea if you're pretty sure a riot is going
> to happen.

But they were mostly things like *history* students, not textile 
archeology students. (It was a history post-grad's graduation party, 
after all.)

I think that many of the SCA people I know on this list and not on 
the list have gone *way* beyond that. I know that I found the SCA 
to be a place where I could have synergy with people who knew 
more than I did about costuming and textile archeology and it grew 
from there.

I'm definitely SCA (for nearly 20 years now), but I have a lot of 
interests (pre17th century in all the periods and mid18thC 
especially). (Although I assure you I delete everything about 
Victorian/Edwardian costume and feel those people can delete any 
accidental SCA reference I make just as easily.)

However, I've been doing sewing since age 3 1/2years (although the 
needle in my sister's heel with all the hospitalization made a 
moritorium until I turned 4) and I've been doing costumes for myself 
since I was in grade school (since mom would sew them for herself 
but I was on my own for me. She *always* won our church 
halloweeen costume contest! I always thought that it was unfair 
she wouldn't do something just as good for me.) 

I ended up joining the SCA because there *were* people doing 
costumes for more than just Halloween. (And I quickly learned a 
lot!) 

I've tried some other reinactment groups and things like Costume 
Con, but just don't find them as satisfying as the SCA (even with all 
it's warts.)

I am also on this list because I found other textile archeology 
junkies like me. ;) (But I wouldn't have found it without the SCA.)


Kateryne of Hindscroft, OL, GdS, etc

All it takes for evil to triumph is for the good to do nothing.
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 17:07:42 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/4/2002 3:22:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:

<< while still wearing ones gloves.  >>
Are you SURE that Victorian/Edwardian manners called for wearing gloves while 
eating?  I cannot quote chapter and verse, but I think it highly unlikely.
Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:37:05 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> << while still wearing ones gloves.  >>
> Are you SURE that Victorian/Edwardian manners called for wearing gloves while 
> eating?  I cannot quote chapter and verse, but I think it highly unlikely.

Actually, I remember reading one of those etiquette books.  You could
eat with your gloves on BUT we're talking about the type of gloves 
that button at the wrist.  So you pulled your hand out of the main
glove and out through the opening made by unbuttoning the gloves.
This would be for an afternoon tea.  Luncheon, dinner and supper
were informal or formal meals and different.

Oh, and there was a bit in the section on a lady's wardrobe
that noted one should have extra white gloves to deal with
soiling from jellies and jams.  So for tea, at least, it was
normal.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making your own linen
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:56:15 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:36 PM -0800 3/3/02, Joan Garner wrote:
>Someone in our local ad-hoc garb-making club wants to
>start with flax and spin & weave his own linen.
>Personally I think he's nuts, but I would appreciate
>it if anyone can direct him to info on this.  Thanks!

I've done it -- well, I didn't weave cloth, I made a little 
bobbin-lace doily.  It was long enough ago that I don't remember 
exactly what books I was working from, but there are a lot of 
"history of linen" type books that will describe the process.  One 
important thing is to be prepared for a lot of experimentation, and 
for not necessarily getting all the way to woven cloth the first 
time.  When you're first figuring out how to process the fiber, you 
can get a lot of wastage.  I started out with a very small plot of 
flax: about 4x4 feet.  And I ended up with a doily about four inches 
in diameter (plus a bunch of miscellaneous thread ends).  A lot of 
the loss was in the initial separation of the fiber from the woody 
core -- I'd probably retted the flax either too long or not long 
enough.  Then, in hackling it, I probably ended up discarding more 
than half my fiber as too short (because it hadn't been processed 
properly in the breaking process).  At any rate, I would undoubtedly 
have gotten a better yield the second time, but I'd moved on to other 
projects.  (This was more or less a "just to say I can" project for 
me.)  I've also had people tell me that I'd have gotten better 
results using a different strain of flax.  If he hasn't spun linen 
before, then it'll also take him a bit of experience to learn to spin 
a fine and even enough thread to weave with.  And he needs to 
understand that he's unlikely to be able to produce shirt-quality 
linen any time soon -- I'd be aiming for something in the line of 
"very nice quality burlap".

He's not nuts -- but the learning curve is fairly steep.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:15:52 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 4 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> Well, the one I'm interested in at present is a collection of C14
> headdresses, on page 149
> 
> http://www.williams.nildram.co.uk/crafts/c14headdresses_sm.jpg
> ...
> 
> Finding the original: Shaw says "The manuscript to which we refer
> appears to have been written and illuminated toward the south of
> France, during the reign (1364-1380)  of Charles V. It was formerly in
> the Lamoignon Collection, from which it passed to the library of the
> Duke of Roxburghe, from whom it was purchased by the trustees of the
> British Museum ..... It is a fine manuscript on vellum, contaiing a
> copy of the French text of the Romance of King Meliadus..... battle
> scenes, varied now and then with tournaments. The latter are always
> accompanied by numerous figures of ladies, as spectators, amd have
> furnished us with the greater part of the subjects on the facing
> page..."

This image was new to me. I'm intrigued by some of the expressions on the
ladies' faces, and wonder if they're faithful to the original! Some of the
clothing styles, particularly those in the middle row, look a bit
suspicious for 14th c. French -- I would place those necklines and lacing
arrangements, and the headdresses too, at a later date and perhaps in
other countries (e.g. Germany). Shaw obviously did a little mix-and-match
for this page. Either he pulled material from another source, or else this
manuscript includes artwork from two periods, which does occasionally
happen -- and Shaw notes that the manuscript's illumination was not
completed, so it might have had some work added at a later date. I haven't
heard of this manuscript, so it's possible also that it was later
reclassified/redated (e.g. it might have been two separate pieces bound
together).

The clothing and headdresses in the top and bottom rows are mostly within
the realm of possibility, if you ignore the waistline seams (surely Shaw's
addition), but you can find many examples from this period in other, more
reliable books, such as Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume: The
14th and 15th Centuries," or Millia Davenport's "Book of Costume."

I would love it if someone on this list could identify the source(s) of
these images. Hard to believe I've never even heard of "The Romance of
King Meliadus."

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 20:35:22 -0800
Status: RO

I'm finally having my website worked on.  My Sweetie is doing the hard 
part, setting it up so all I have to do in add images and text from time to 
time.  I intend to include costumes I have made, antique/ethnic stuff I 
own, how-to articles from historical magazines I own, and notes/patterns 
from classes I have given, as well as the obligatory pictures of cats and 
children.  I also hope to link to every costume resource site I routinely 
visit.

How do I get permission to make links from my site to someone else's 
site?  I'm thinking of those cool resource sites some people on this list 
have, also of museums and commercial parts-sources.  Is it correct 
nettiquite to ask first, or shall I assume if it's on the web then it's OK 
for me to just set up a link?  What's the correct place to actually link to 
- the home page, or the coolest image on the site?

How early does a thing's copyright date have to be for me to put it on my 
site and not violate the law?  For example, I own a pre-printed dress from 
the Bucilla embroidery company, dated 1925 right on it, where the 
embroidery is done but nothing is cut out.

How do I keep honest people from using the stuff on my site for their own 
commercial purposes, while still letting them use the stuff?  Is there a 
share-ware-like situation where I can put something I created, and if 
people want to use it then they are requested to send me some little bit of 
money?  Is there a way to prevent the downloading of some of the images?

I plan to keep my site simple to download and navigate, using no 
complicated graphics, animation, etc.  Is there any other thing I need to 
remember, to keep things user-friendly?  Besides good content and new 
things every once in a while, what makes a cool costume site?

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 20:49:19 -0800
Status: RO


><< while still wearing ones gloves.  >>
>Are you SURE that Victorian/Edwardian manners called for wearing gloves while
>eating?  I cannot quote chapter and verse, but I think it highly unlikely.

If one were eating outdoors at a sidewalk cafe, I don't believe the gloves 
came off.  Places like McD would qualify, if one ate outdoors.  But I will 
look in my Charles Dana Gibson book, recently unearthed, to see what he 
shows women wearing at outdoor cafes in the 1890's.  You are certainly 
right about anything formal.

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 20:55:26 -0800
Status: RO

on 3/4/02 8:35 PM, Carolyn Kayta Barrows at kayta@frys.com wrote:

> I'm finally having my website worked on.  My Sweetie is doing the hard
> part, setting it up so all I have to do in add images and text from time to
> time.  I intend to include costumes I have made, antique/ethnic stuff I
> own, how-to articles from historical magazines I own, and notes/patterns
> from classes I have given, as well as the obligatory pictures of cats and
> children.  I also hope to link to every costume resource site I routinely
> visit.

Welcome to the dark world of costuming websites... :)

> 
> How do I get permission to make links from my site to someone else's
> site?  I'm thinking of those cool resource sites some people on this list
> have, also of museums and commercial parts-sources.  Is it correct
> nettiquite to ask first, or shall I assume if it's on the web then it's OK
> for me to just set up a link?  What's the correct place to actually link to
> - the home page, or the coolest image on the site?

What I normally do is just drop a line to the person whose site I'm linking
to, stating who I am, what I do, why I admire their site and ask if it's
cool if I link to it.  I've never been turned down.  I've also made some
good friendships with people who I've met while getting permission to link
to their site. 

Now, speaking as a website owner, I don't have a problem if someone links to
my site without asking permission or giving a heads-up.  That's just my
personal feeling about it... As long as no one is plagerizing, I'm cool with
it (a quick search on google lets me keep tabs on who is using my site for
what reason).  I haven't been completely ripped off at this point in time,
but I'm sure there's a good possibility of it happening.  However, I don't
let it keep me up at night worrying about it.

> 
> How early does a thing's copyright date have to be for me to put it on my
> site and not violate the law?  For example, I own a pre-printed dress from
> the Bucilla embroidery company, dated 1925 right on it, where the
> embroidery is done but nothing is cut out.

I'm totally clueless about copyright issues... And it shows.  I've been
meaning to research the matter more thoroughly, because I've been opperating
under the assumption that as long as I credit the owner of the artwork, I'm
not hurting anyone.  Apparently this isn't the case as far as the net is
concerned (works well with school papers, though).  I'd be interested in
hearing the particulars about this, too.

> 
> How do I keep honest people from using the stuff on my site for their own
> commercial purposes, while still letting them use the stuff?  Is there a
> share-ware-like situation where I can put something I created, and if
> people want to use it then they are requested to send me some little bit of
> money?  Is there a way to prevent the downloading of some of the images?
> 

There are some ways of making it slightly more difficult to steal images,
but there are simple ways around those.  Thing is, I chose not to worry to
much about this happening.  There's been a couple of instances where I've
joined a group on Yahoo! only to discover that images of my work have been
"stolen" from my site and placed in a folder in the group for discussion,
though.  It does bother me that people have done this (mainly because it's
less work to just link to the site and go from there, rather than download
the image to the computer and then upload it to Yahoo!), but as far as I can
tell, it's harmless discussion involved.  Except for the pictures of my
corset that someone swiped for discussion... That was a bit awkward, but
that's only because it's kind of weird to find images of yourself in your
underwear on someone elses' site...

Again, it's all up to how "selfish" you feel about your work.  The way I
look at it, the images on my website are free to whoever wants to look at
them and that opens me wide up for issues like the ones I've just described.
But, I knew that going into it, so it's not a major shock for me.  Just know
what you're up against before putting anything on the site that might be A)
Offensive in some way (even the most benign stuff is bound to rub someone
the wrong way, and they're going to tell you about it) and B) So cool that
someone will be tempted to snatch the content and use it for their own
devious purposes.  

> I plan to keep my site simple to download and navigate, using no
> complicated graphics, animation, etc.  Is there any other thing I need to
> remember, to keep things user-friendly?  Besides good content and new
> things every once in a while, what makes a cool costume site?

Number one thing that I think is absolutely crucial in a good costume site:
Pictures.  Lots and lots of pictures of original work with good detailed
shots from different angles, worn by living models and plenty of discussion
on technique.  Okay, so that's more than one thing, but I feel those are
terribly important in a good costume site.  Just my $0.02...

Have fun and drop us a link!

Sarah Lorraine
http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate

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Subject: [h-cost] Report Back from DuPont TextileTour
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 01:06:42 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, I am so excited after tonight big adventure touring one of three parts
of the DuPont plant here in Richmond, VA.  I wish all of you could have been
with us.  I learned so much.  There were 250 girl and boy scouts in our
group.  Very impressive that this many youngster wanted to learn about
textiles.  They split the group into three sets and sent us off to a
separate factory within the plant.  Each week we rotate factories until we
have been to them all.  They are VERY professional with the presentation and
organized so well.  All of the employees who helped with the presentation
volunteered to put it on for us.

So I will give you a little background on this plant, called Spruce Plant.
This plant has three factories, each manufacturing a different non-woven
textile.  The textiles are Kevlar, Nomex, and Teflon.  This plant is the
largest DuPont plant in the world. Dupont does have several other plants all
over the world that creates various types of textiles.  I asked what was the
first thing that DuPont manufactured.  It was gunpowder.

The textile we saw manufacturing tonight is Tyvek.  We first had a lecture
session, explaining the manufacturing process, characteristics, end uses,
etc.  Then we toured the factory.

So I bet a lot of you are wondering what Tyvek is?  You all have it in your
homes!  The little labels on your furniture that states that this label can
not be removed under penalty of law.  You have tried to remove it by hand
and it won't rip, then you have to cut it with scissors... that label's
textile is Tyvek.  And strength is its #1 advantage!  This textile is also
used for envelopes... the big soft white ones that are the dickens to open.
Guess who they were manufacturing Tyvek for tonight?  UPS.  They are going
to make envelopes out of the textile.  Remember how I said it is the dickens
to get into those Tyvek envelopes?  Tyvek is almost puncture proof, and
repels up to 60 lbs of water.  Don't you think that would make a great
package to ship good in?  Each bolt is tested at the beginning of
production.  The first 8 yards are removed and tested for flaws, durability,
strength, water resistance.  We got to see them testing for each.

Tyvek was discovered by DuPont in the 1967 on accident.  They were
experimenting to make another fabric and a vial on the vat leaked one night.
A steady stream of the solution went all over the floor.  When the workers
came into the factory the next morning the solution had hardened into a
textile!  The Richmond Plant has been manufacturing it ever since.  The only
other plant to manufacture the textile is in Germany.

Other things made out of Tyvek are windbreaker jackets, hats, and medical
supplies.  They are great for surgical covering because they have very
little lint.  We had a doctor in our group and he verified this.  The reason
it doesn't have lint is because Tyvek has the shortest fibers in the world.

Now I bet some of you are wondering what non-woven fabrics are? Think of a
piece of felt.  The Tyvek fibers are sprayed out of hundreds of nozzles and
layered on top of one another.  The nozzles moved in sequence.  We saw this
in the factory and were amazed.  They move so quickly that it appears that
they are moving in a steady stream straight down.  But the turned on a
strobe (sp) light and  we saw that the nozzles were moving in a beautiful
sequenced motion.  This was way too cool and everyone loved it.  The fibers
grip on to one another, then forms the textile.

Those who recycle can appreciate this... Tyvek is made from recycled plastic
milk containers.  When you recycle your milk containers they go to DuPont!
They have recycled enough milk containers to circle the world.

Some other characteristics of Tyvek:
***Does not dye well, but will accept ink for printing exceptionally well.
It holds some of the highest definition inks in the world.  My husband
proved this to me, when he pulled out a wadded up map made of Tyvek that he
got at the State Fair five years ago.  He said, "I have had it wadded up in
this drawer for five years and look at the print and fabric.  It is in
perfect condition."
***It doesn't burn but will melt.
***The textile doesn't breathe.  This makes the wearer very hot.
***For wearing... it can only be laundered about 6 times.  Then the textile
starts to break down.  My GYN doctor has dressing gowns for the patients
made of Tyvek.

As for the factory itself... it is 40 years old, but has some state of the
art things.  The supervisors ride around in huba-crafts (sp).  They are
magnetically charged and float around about an inch off of the floor.... so
Star War-ish! The rider stands up in them kinda like a jet ski and zips
around the factory.  This was so cool!!!!

The other state of the art thing were robots that moved things around in the
factory.  These were free standing and mobile robots, that would move things
from one side of the factory to the other side, moving gigantic bolts of
textiles. The robots were about four foot high and were real... kinda like
R2D2.  We were warned if one comes our way to move out of its way.  It does
not know to move around you.   WOW!!!!  The teenagers and adults were so
excited!!!  So space age!

Well, I will let you all know what happens at our next two sessions.  We do
not go back to the plant until Mar. 18th.  I hope it is the factory where we
see how they make bullet proof vests.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I'm a costumer, not a webmaster
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 01:19:14 -0500
Status: RO

One wonderful avenue of learning about internet laws is through The Internet
Library Case Update Newsletter.  They send you a profiled lawsuit case every
week via email about the internet.  I have learned a LOT from this.  I
encourage anyone doing business on the internet to get this newsletter.
This week's newsletter was really interesting about a photographer who sued
a search engine for copyright violation.  This was a two sided coin.  Below
is how to subscribe and read past newsletters.  If interested in this week's
letter, I suggest you read ALL of it.  It packs a punch in the end.

Last week's newsletter was about a former Playmate of the Year's website
being sued by Playboy magazine for trademark infringement.

Directions: (copied from the newsletter)
If you found this Internet Library Case Update of interest, and are not
already a subscriber to my free service, notify me at
http://www.phillipsnizer.com/form.htm, and I will provide you with future
case updates.  Additional case summaries can be found on the Internet
Library at http://www.phillipsnizer.com/internetlib.htm.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 00:21:46 -0600
Status: RO

Hi, all!

Group:  St. Louis Costumers' Guild, chapter of International Costumers' Guild
Period:  All

We do 99.9% fantasy and SF costuming, but many of them have started from 
historical patterns.  So far we've modified (among others) Victorian, late 
17th/early 18th Cent (panniers), houppelandes, medieval tunics, Roman, and 
an Elizabethan is in the future plans.  We have somehow fallen into 
specializing in religious-themed costumes and re-creations of artwork and 
book covers.  We've learned a lot from all the discussions on this list, 
since we don't do (at least not yet) purely historical costumes - it points 
us to things we may not have thought of when considering a particular style.

This list is the greatest!

Pierre and Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:00:24 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:38 PM -0800 3/3/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:
>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
>the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
>Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
>hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
>morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
>anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
>clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!

Although a french hood doesn't _have_ to have a "coronet" at all. The 
1570's ones my Renaissance guild wears are just a flat, basically 
crescent-shaped underlayer that is heavily stiffened and wired, then 
bent into shape around the face and covered with fabric. When it's 
exactly the right shape, the front points just touch the cheekbones, 
the width at the bottom just covers the earlobes, and the whole thing 
slopes just a little upward from the forehead to the back of the 
hood. (I can't describe the angle properly because I'm still waiting 
to get one fitted.) The whole thing is only about two or two and a 
half inches from front to back.

Unfortunately it's practically impossible to create a "pattern" for 
one because everyone's head shape and face are different. The one our 
costume director wears, for instance, is a couple of inches too long 
for me and tilts up too much in the back. (She says the "radar dish" 
look is Right Out!)

What she recommends is studying portraits, then experimenting with 
cutting pieces of stiff paper into various shapes until you find 
something that looks right and is flattering to your face. I've 
noticed that Mary Tudor wears hoods like this in her portraits that 
are practically flat on top of her head, for instance.

I don't know too much about the theory, but I'll ask. I have this 
vague feeling that earlier hoods like the gable or English hood do 
involve pinning up lappets of a previous style, but I don't know 
what's evolving from what.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar  5 01:26:04 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 02:06:56 -0500
Status: RO

Karen,

You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of America
meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone else going to
Chicago in June for CSA?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: <seamstrix@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


> I was infected by the costuming bug at the tender age of 14 when I joined
> a Rev War group thru the auspices of a Senior Girl Scout troop. I was
> already predisposed to a costuming obsession due to an unhealthy interest
> in playing dress up as a child. I went on to participate in the SCA (and
> still do when other activities permit), and then I got assimilated by the
> RenFaire and have been concentrating on later 16th century ever since. In
> the SCA my persona is technically an Anglo-Saxon, but I've always loved
> the cotehardie styles and would like to get more proficient at them. I'm
> also getting into Victorian these days and would love a good excuse to
> make Cavalier.....and I've done a bit of Regency.
>
> I've been on h-costume since summer of '97, and I've enjoyed both the
> discussions we've had on the board, and meeting folks from the list in
> person (Hi Teddy, Mel, Danielle, Melanie, Drea, Deb, and everyone else
> I've had the pleasure of meeting). This list is a constant source of
> inspiration!
>
>
> Karen
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 23:24:33 -0800
Status: RO

on 3/4/02 11:00 PM, Chris Laning at claning@igc.org wrote:

> 
> Although a french hood doesn't _have_ to have a "coronet" at all. The
> 1570's ones my Renaissance guild wears are just a flat, basically
> crescent-shaped underlayer that is heavily stiffened and wired, then
> bent into shape around the face and covered with fabric. When it's
> exactly the right shape, the front points just touch the cheekbones,
> the width at the bottom just covers the earlobes, and the whole thing
> slopes just a little upward from the forehead to the back of the
> hood. (I can't describe the angle properly because I'm still waiting
> to get one fitted.) The whole thing is only about two or two and a
> half inches from front to back.

Right.  This is the way I was taught to do it, too.  The "coronet" is
essentially the curved piece that projects out at an angle from the head
(what you just described).  The term was something I picked up from Norris a
while ago, and I've noticed that other costumers also refer to it as a
"coronet".  It could be possible, however, that this is a confused term.

What makes this other method of making the hood so interesting is that it
suggests that the "coronet" piece wasn't a seperate article, as described in
your email, but an integral part of the entire "hood" that has been flipped
back against the crown of the head and embellished with a contrasting fabric
and jewels (the billiments).  It's actually a really darn good theory when
one tracks the evolution of the french hood, and it does aproximate the look
of the earlier french hood styles really nicely.  However... I just need one
good picture of someone wearing a french hood made in this manner to
convince me that it's actually workable.  Not that I don't believe you
guys... I just want picture proof. ;)

Sarah Lorraine

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 07:48:53 -0000
Status: RO

On 4 Mar 2002 at 23:15, Robin Netherton wrote:

> 
> On Mon, 4 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:
> 
> > Well, the one I'm interested in at present is a collection of C14
> > headdresses, on page 149
> > 
> > http://www.williams.nildram.co.uk/crafts/c14headdresses_sm.jpg
> 
> This image was new to me. I'm intrigued by some of the expressions on the
> ladies' faces, and wonder if they're faithful to the original! 

It did make me wonder what was happening in the scene they were watching!

> The clothing and headdresses in the top and bottom rows are mostly within
> the realm of possibility, if you ignore the waistline seams

OK: I'm after headdresses in any case.

> but you can find many examples from this period in other, more
> reliable books, such as Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume: The
> 14th and 15th Centuries," or Millia Davenport's "Book of Costume."

Amazon is failing to find either of these :(
Bookfinder isn't coming up with the Scott, but has found the Davenport. Prices from 
 16.90 (in Canada: add postage) up to silly money. Is this a "must have", in the opinion 
of the list?

Are there "how to" web sites I should be looking at for my head-dresses?



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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 19:10:07 -0800
Status: RO



Sarah Lorriane wrote:

> I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
> the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
> Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
> a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
> least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
> 99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
> hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
> evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
> morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
> anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
> clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!
>
>

I can see an argument for this, as some of the hoods worn around 1500 in France

and Flanders had soft turn-backs. However, some of them also had strange
understructures that may also have evolved into a stiff brim. Needs more
looking
into. I think though, that even if the French hood evolved this way it was not
made
this way when say Anne Boleyn wore it. It seems quite clearly to have separate
components then.

Claire


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] I'm a costumer, not a webmaster
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 08:37:21 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi

Regarding th copyright and fair use of material it is worth bearing in mind that the law on this
matter is very different in different countries.  In the UK as I understand it we are not allowed
to use images, text (unless quoted) etc etc etc without the express permission of the owner.  So
it is worth knowing that if you use a graphic of an image (whether it is in a book or on the web)
from a UK museum or gallery without their permission you could be prosecuted for copyright
infingement.  I know the NPG operates this policy but it is not too expensive to get the graphics
licenced.  They may not ask you to pay anything if you are using their images for educational
rather than commercial purposes.

Make any sense?

Rachel

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 00:47:39 -0800
Status: RO


>Welcome to the dark world of costuming websites... :)

Doesn't look all that dark to me.  I just looked at the web-sites of people 
on this list (most of us don't seem to have them), and I noticed lots of 
colour, photo-graphics, patterned backgrounds, animation, etc.  My concept 
is much simpler than the ones I saw, so I hope it doesn't look too 
amateurish by comparison.

>Again, it's all up to how "selfish" you feel about your work.  The way I
>look at it, the images on my website are free to whoever wants to look at
>them and that opens me wide up for issues like the ones I've just described.
>But, I knew that going into it, so it's not a major shock for me.  Just know
>what you're up against before putting anything on the site that might be A)
>Offensive in some way (even the most benign stuff is bound to rub someone
>the wrong way, and they're going to tell you about it) and B) So cool that
>someone will be tempted to snatch the content and use it for their own
>devious purposes.

Some stuff I just own, I didn't make.  Images of those things will be up 
there for all to see, and, presumably, download for non-commercial 
use.  Other stuff I will have put long hours into, like class notes and 
mini-classes, and it would be nice if I got something back for my 
time.  How do I work that?  Hide the location, post a teaser, and say if 
they send a check I'll tell them where to look for the rest of it?  Do it 
on the honour system, like the share-ware people do?

>Number one thing that I think is absolutely crucial in a good costume site:
>Pictures.  Lots and lots of pictures of original work with good detailed
>shots from different angles, worn by living models and plenty of discussion
>on technique.

That was my plan.  I have lots of historical pieces that never see the 
light of day, so I want a place to show them to people who will care about 
them (antique handmade lace to show Leif, weird costumes to show Teddy, 
antique doll clothes to show Elizabeth, etc.)  And most of the people on 
this list have seen none of my work, for all the talk I do, so I want a 
place to brag and show off.

BTW, what's a 'costume ring'?

>Have fun and drop us a link!
>
>Sarah Lorraine
>http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 01:21:13 -0800
Status: RO


>Regarding th copyright and fair use of material it is worth bearing in 
>mind that the law on this
>matter is very different in different countries.  In the UK as I 
>understand it we are not allowed
>to use images, text (unless quoted) etc etc etc without the express 
>permission of the owner.  So
>it is worth knowing that if you use a graphic of an image (whether it is 
>in a book or on the web)
>from a UK museum or gallery without their permission you could be 
>prosecuted for copyright
>infingement.  I know the NPG operates this policy but it is not too 
>expensive to get the graphics
>licenced.  They may not ask you to pay anything if you are using their 
>images for educational
>rather than commercial purposes.
>
>Make any sense?

Yes it does, but those aren't the kinds of images I want to use.  I have an 
early 1900's woman's magazine with an illustrated article on what 'stout' 
women should be wearing.  I have an 1894 Butterick knitting book, with 
directions for sweaters with two different kinds of leg-of-mutton 
sleeves.  I have a piece of cloth printed in 1925, it says, for 
embroidering then making up as a dress.  Some of the printed stuff I have 
is from companies which went out of business decades ago.   How does 
copyright work on things like these which had actual copyrights on them once?

Kayta
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 09:34:49 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Well, I did play around with this last night and I learned a few
> things. First, this style of hood makes a dead-on replica of the
> earliest french hood style that was somewhere between henin lappet and
> french hood (the portrait of Catherine of Aragon as a young woman is a
> good example).  The other thing I learned is that it doesn't give
> enough of a "coronet" effect.  I wired the edge and it didn't help
> much.  Those of you who have made this work, how did you get the
> turned back edge to "stand up", if you will, to give the appropriate
> coronet, as with the later style of hood (1540's)?  Is there still a
> seperate structure that the hood part attaches to via the billiments
> or am I just going about this all wrong?  

Hi Sarah,

Have you tried putting your hair in two plaits that wind around each 
other across the top of your head towards the back - with that 
under the hood, the back of the turn-back part sould sit up on it at 
about the right angle.

Teddy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry Shaw and other books
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 09:59:09 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > but you can find many examples from this period in other, more
> > reliable books, such as Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume:
> > The 14th and 15th Centuries," or Millia Davenport's "Book of
> > Costume."
> 
> Amazon is failing to find either of these :(
> Bookfinder isn't coming up with the Scott, but has found the
> Davenport. Prices from £16.90 (in Canada: add postage) up to silly
> money. Is this a "must have", in the opinion of the list?
> 
> Are there "how to" web sites I should be looking at for my
> head-dresses?

Jane,

How about seeing if your local library has them - or requesting 
them on Inter-Library Loan if they don't - that way you can have a 
look at them first and decide if they cover what you wnat and if they 
are worth paying out the money for.

Teddy
(doing the Librarian thing)


Teddy

Bibliographical Services
Middlesex University
Bounds Green Road
London
N11 2NQ
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I'm a costumer, not a webmaster
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 10:21:27 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Kayta

I would check with the publishers (if possible) to see if their copyright is still in force. 
There are a few guides on the net about UK copyright, and I presume other countries too.  The
length of time that a image remains in copyright varies, but I would imagine that 100 years would
probably be the limit.  Best to check though.

Regarding the material, if you take a photograph of it then you own the copyright on that image so
you are fine to put that on your site.

Rachel

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 
> Yes it does, but those aren't the kinds of images I want to use.  I have an 
> early 1900's woman's magazine with an illustrated article on what 'stout' 
> women should be wearing.  I have an 1894 Butterick knitting book, with 
> directions for sweaters with two different kinds of leg-of-mutton 
> sleeves.  I have a piece of cloth printed in 1925, it says, for 
> embroidering then making up as a dress.  Some of the printed stuff I have 
> is from companies which went out of business decades ago.   How does 
> copyright work on things like these which had actual copyrights on them once?
> 
> Kayta
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Oh, I am so excited after tonight big adventure touring one of three =
parts
of the DuPont plant here in Richmond, VA.  I wish all of you could have =
been
with us.  I learned so much.  There were 250 girl and boy scouts in our
group.  Very impressive that this many youngster wanted to learn about
textiles. =20

Penny, your trip sounds very interesting! Thanks for sharing that! And =
how cool of the factory to handle a group that size!

Dianne


Thought For The Day: There is a very fine line between "hobby" and =
"mental illness".

------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C1C412.C7C4BF60
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV>Oh, I am so excited after tonight big adventure touring one of =
three=20
parts<BR>of the DuPont plant here in Richmond, VA.&nbsp; I wish all of =
you could=20
have been<BR>with us.&nbsp; I learned so much.&nbsp; There were 250 girl =
and boy=20
scouts in our<BR>group.&nbsp; Very impressive that this many youngster =
wanted to=20
learn about<BR>textiles.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Penny, your trip sounds very =
interesting! Thanks=20
for sharing that! And how cool of the factory to handle a group that=20
size!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dianne</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thought For The Day: There is a very =
fine line=20
between "hobby" and "mental illness".</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:00:03 +0100
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Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:

> Dianne  Thought For The Day: There is a very fine line between "hobby"
> and "mental illness".
>
> You can say that again, i agree wholehearted!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 04:49:22 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


The one thing I keep being struck by is how many people keep
saying "oh i'd love to do that period, but I have no place
to wear it."  

That makes me SO SAD I cannot express it!

If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
why don't you start a group to do that with?  Your group doesn't even
have to be specific to that time period, it could be like a lot of the local
costumer's guilds and be for anyone interested in lots of periods, and
fantasy...

just get together 3-4 people in your area, start a local mailing list, 
at yahoo or topica.com, have a costumed picnic or a dress up day at a museum,
and take some business cards with you with the mailing list info... after 2 or
3 outings you'll probably have enough people who'vee asked about your group
and are interested that you can organize bigger events!

I'd recommend seeing the greater bay area costumer's guild page for some
great event ideas.  http://www.gbacg.org/

I don't know -- I know I'm lucky to live in an area where there's lots of
chances to do things, and plenty of events were it's ok to show up out of period
if you've just finished something you really love ;)  But seeing a hundred
or so responses with the same theme just made me sad!

.heather.meadows.


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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 09:50:04 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 5 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> > but you can find many examples from this period in other, more
> > reliable books, such as Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume: The
> > 14th and 15th Centuries," or Millia Davenport's "Book of Costume."
> 
> Amazon is failing to find either of these :( Bookfinder isn't coming
> up with the Scott, but has found the Davenport. Prices from £16.90 (in
> Canada: add postage) up to silly money. Is this a "must have", in the
> opinion of the list?

Depends on how much research you intend to do. Davenport is a huge
compendium of images of dress from all periods, all from period artwork no
redrawings. But the images are all small and b/w. I use it as sort of an
"index" to other images I can find elsewhere. For the serious costumer who
needs a constant reference covering multiple periods, it's a must, but as
you said, is hard to find and expensive.

Scott's book focuses specifically on English costume of the 14th and 15th
centuries and is VERY useful if you intend to do a lot of work in this
period. She also uses only images from period artwork and sculpture, no
redrawings. You may find it in your local library, either under that
title, or bound into the compilation volume called "Visual History of
Dress" that includes several authors' works on different centuries. I'd
suggest you try library copies (ILL if needed) before you buy anything.

--Robin


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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 06:40:09 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Another list I am on has recently been discussing
copyright laws at some length.  It was stated quite
confidently (and repeatedly) on that list that, in the
US, anything written/drawn/whatever before 1923 (I'm
90% certain of that date) is no longer copyrighted. 
Beyond that things get a little more confusing,
because the law has been changed several times, and
there are a couple of different categories, but I
think a general rule is life of the artist plus 70
years.

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> How does 
> copyright work on things like these which had actual
> copyrights on them once?

If you draw/write/whatever something, it is
copyrighted, whether or not the copyright has ever
been registered.  Registering the copyright simply
allows you to prove that you thought of it first,
should someone else claim it is theirs.

Here is an informational site that can answer a few
more questions:

http://lcweb.loc.gov/copyright/faq.html

I'm not a lawyer either, but I hope this is at least a
little helpful!

-Angela

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Subject: [h-cost] 450 years of lace exhibition
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:47:25 -0000
Status: RO


Hi everyone,

I don't know whether this is common knowlege, but the Allhallows Lace museum
is hosting an exhibition covering 450 years of lace from 12 August to the 14
September 2002 in Honiton, Devon, England.

http://www.honitonlace.com/2002/index.htm

I found this via

http://www.honitonlace.com

which has a droolworthy selection of antique laces for sale, for non
lacemakers, and antique equipment etc for people who make lace.

best wishes
Stevie



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 10:19:34 -0500
Status: RO

We have actually discussed copyright law several times over the years in
great length on the list.  If anyone would like that information it is easy
to find in the archives.  The current date is 1927 and goes back 75 years.
But you also have to be careful of violating a trademark.  It a trademark
has been renewed, you can not use a company's name without permission.  If
you choose to use the trademark without permission it is called trademark
infringement. You can get in just as much trouble violating a trademark as
much as a copyright.  Read the article at the website I sent last night
about the Playboy VS the Playmate.  I think you will understand, it spells
it out very clearly.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "no place to wear it"
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 07:39:00 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:
> 
> The one thing I keep being struck by is how many people keep
> saying "oh i'd love to do that period, but I have no place
> to wear it."  

I have that problem too sometimes, but I have found a venue where
just about anything goes, although it may not suit some listmembers.
I will wear some of my period corsets/costumes to the local "goth"
dance club and to "fetish balls." There are a few local promoters
around here who have been doing special themed goth nights and fetish
balls (in an effort to energize the scene in this small sleepy town).
Sometimes I have a costume that coincides with the theme, sometimes I
just wear whatever I want, and it can be as over-the-top as I want.
One of these promoters wants to do a 1001 Arabian Nights theme this
summer, and I can't wait to show off some of my middle-eastern duds. 

However, I DO wish I had a better place to do 18th c. clothing. The
local "black powder" groups that I know of are funny about letting
"unattached" women into their group. 

mirv


=====
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Date: 5 Mar 2002 07:47:01 -0800
Status: RO

> If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
> just get together 3-4 people in your area, start a local mailing list, 

Sounds easy enough but where do you find those 3-4 people? Might be possible in the States but I happen to live in Finland... and I used to live in Korea, where it would have been even more difficult. Actually, i moved back here just recently and haven´t really had the time to find out whether there are any events for the time period I´m interested in (basically anything from 1600 onward, but mostly 1750ish and early 20th cent.)I think not. Lucky you!

Riina


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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 07:55:04 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hmmm, I still have to read these publications in more
detail, but I think I see where some confusion is
coming in.  Penny, you say

> The current date is 1927
> and goes back 75 years.

I believe that the rule had been that for works
created before Jan. 1, 1978, the total copyright term
was 75 years.  However, in 1998 the "Sonny Bono"
extension was enacted, adding 20 years onto every
copyright term.  This means that works created in 1923
would have expired in '98 (75 years), but works
created in 1924 now have 95 years before they expire,
which makes them good until 2019.

But, I have heard that the Supreme Court is
considering taking a closer look at the "Sonny Bono
act," which could result in it being repealed or
amended.

> But you also have to be careful of violating a
> trademark.  

Very good point here.  Here's the government's website
on trademarks, which I haven't looked at at all:

http://www.uspto.gov/web/offices/tac/tmlaw2.html

Still not a lawyer-
Angela

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Date: Tue,  5 Mar 2002 15:58:02 +0000
Status: RO

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote :

> We have actually discussed copyright law several times over the years in
> great length on the list....The current date is 1927 and goes back 75 years.

I thought someone just said that this only applies to the USA?




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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 10:59:19 -0500
Status: RO




>From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
>
>experimenting with
>cutting pieces of stiff paper into various shapes until you find
>something that looks right and is flattering to your face.

One thing I learned when making my first kokoshnik (a Russian headress that 
-vaguely- resembles a French hood) is to use plain old manilla file folders 
for this.  They're nice and sturdy, and you can use the center crease to 
ensure that it comes out symmetric.

Parsla

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 10:19:56 -0600
Status: RO


Hi Penny,


Just let me know where the meeting will be and/or where the hotel you
will be staying is and I will play friendly native guide and figure out a
good place to meet and maybe have dinner or some such. I'm looking
forward to meeting more cyber-friends in the flesh. (And don't forget
that cemetery tour I promised you.....<EG>)

Shameless Commercial Plug: And for everyone who is looking for a place to
wear that costume they are dying to make, CostumeCon 21 will be Easter
weekend 2003 here in beautiful, exotic (and kinda chilly right now)
Chicago. This is for ALL types of costuming, all periods, all inspiration
sources. Everyone is welcome!!!

Karen
Programming Chair- CC21




On Tue, 5 Mar 2002 02:06:56 -0500 "Penny Ladnier"
<penny@costumegallery.com> writes:
> Karen,
> 
> You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of 
> America meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone
else 
> going to Chicago in June for CSA?
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:29:30 -0500
Status: RO

Jane,

Thank you for pointing that out.  Different countries have different
copyright laws.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright


> Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote :
>
> > We have actually discussed copyright law several times over the years in
> > great length on the list....The current date is 1927 and goes back 75
years.
>
> I thought someone just said that this only applies to the USA?
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 08:33:53 -0800
Status: RO


> Another list I am on has recently been discussing
> copyright laws at some length.  It was stated quite
> confidently (and repeatedly) on that list that, in the
> US, anything written/drawn/whatever before 1923 (I'm
> 90% certain of that date) is no longer copyrighted. 

Even with that you have to be careful, as the work in which the 
period piece appears may be copyrighted. (To paraphrase from the 
copyright class I took recently.)

> Beyond that things get a little more confusing,
> because the law has been changed several times, and
> there are a couple of different categories, but I
> think a general rule is life of the artist plus 70
> years.

This is confusing, especially because it is currently changing so 
rapidly. There are statutes being struck down and raised, as well 
as court cases (such as the Corell one) which are changing a lot of 
things, especially for the Internet.

> Here is an informational site that can answer a few
> more questions:
> 
> http://lcweb.loc.gov/copyright/faq.html

There is also:

http://www.copyright.com 

This is a site which was created at the request of Congress to help 
people comply with copyright law.

http://www.libraries.psu.edu/avs/fairuse/default.html

This site has information directly from CONFU, the Conference on 
Fair Use, discussing internet uses.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 08:33:52 -0800
Status: RO


> If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
> why don't you start a group to do that with?

Because that takes so much time and effort (especially at the 
grass root stage when you don't even have 3-4 people to start with) 
that most of us do not have the wherewithal to do so. While I might 
have time to make a dress and wear it at an event, if I had to do 
such organizing, I wouldn't have time for either.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar  5 11:05:19 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:45:37 -0500
Status: RO

Angela,

Drea has actually spoke with a lawyer about copyright issues.  She's not on
the list at the moment, but my understanding from chatting with her,
copyright expiration dates are different for various types of
publications... depending on what copyright law was in affect at the time.
Recent copyright laws pertain to things that are published that are
published in current time.

There is an excellent webpage that covers copyright law timeline,
http://arl.cni.org/info/frn/copy/timeline.html
This webpage's master site is the Association of Research Libraries (Wash
DC) is http://arl.cni.org/info/frn/copy/copytoc.html  Lots of current
information on copyrights.

Enough said, back to work.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:49:10 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Good thought, Heather!
In our area (greater Washington, DC area) we've got groups doing stuff
that can be tied to the locale, like Revolutionary War, War of 1812, et
cetera, but we've also got groups (all of the ones I'm involved in, come
to think of it) that have no historical ties to the area whatsoever -- the
group doing Thirty Years War (Germany), or 1745 Scotland, for instance.
Someone decided they wanted to start a group, and just _did_ it!  The
Scottish group mostly goes to local Celtic and Scottish festivals as part
of a Living History display.  The Thirty Years War groups participate in
"Military Timeline" events, where a local park will put together a
"timeline" display of groups doing military impressions, ranging from,
say, a unit of Roman Legionnaires, to Vikings, to World War II reenactors.

The reason these events are military timeline events is because most of
the folks who started them did so out of interest in the military
history, but the displays are beginning to diversify and show civilian
activities (like taverns, market displays, dyeing/spinning demos).
I'm not sure how you'd go about establishing a purely civilian timeline
event, since most reenactment groups do focus on military history.

Anyway, if you have a couple of reenacting groups in your area, you might
see if you can interest them, and a local park, in doing a 'timeline' event.
I think the parks that host these events use them as a way to get visitors
into the site.

-- Mara


On Tue, 5 Mar 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:

>
> The one thing I keep being struck by is how many people keep
> saying "oh i'd love to do that period, but I have no place
> to wear it."
>
> That makes me SO SAD I cannot express it!
>
> If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
> why don't you start a group to do that with?  Your group doesn't even
> have to be specific to that time period, it could be like a lot of the local
> costumer's guilds and be for anyone interested in lots of periods, and
> fantasy...

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 21:52:03 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:55 PM -0800 3/4/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:

>Now, speaking as a website owner, I don't have a problem if someone links to
>my site without asking permission or giving a heads-up.  That's just my
>personal feeling about it... As long as no one is plagerizing, I'm cool with
>it (a quick search on google lets me keep tabs on who is using my site for
>what reason).  I haven't been completely ripped off at this point in time,
>but I'm sure there's a good possibility of it happening.  However, I don't
>let it keep me up at night worrying about it.

 From practical experience (both mine and other people's), I can think 
of one reason for appreciating being asked before being linked to. 
If someone links to your site in a manner that brings you a heavy 
traffic of questions or requests that are enough out of your line of 
interest that they would be much more work than fun to answer, it can 
be a problem.  (Either you try to answer the questions anyway and get 
annoyed, or you ignore them or brush them off, and then the 
questioners -- who might otherwise have gone to a website of someone 
who _was_ interested in their questions -- get annoyed.)

I get a little taste of this with my historic name articles on the 
web (although I don't have a site of my own).  Just today I traced 
down _one_ of the sources of some of my odd requests: someone told me 
that Ask Jeeves told her to ask me her "what does my Gaelic name 
mean" question.  (I also get a lot of, "Can you trace my genealogy?" 
questions because people who run genealogy sites have linked to my 
articles.)  Friends of mine who run medieval history sites have 
occasionally discovered that their sites have been linked to "people 
you can ask to do the research for your term paper that's due 
tomorrow" sites.

So it can be of practical use to be given a chance to ok links, as 
long as you're willing occasionally to be the bad guy and say, 
"Sorry, but I think my material is enough off topic for your likely 
clientele that the link won't be useful to either party."

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 02:03:23 +0800
Status: RO

Heather Rose Jones writes:
> 
>  From practical experience (both mine and other people's), I can think 
> of one reason for appreciating being asked before being linked to. 
> If someone links to your site in a manner that brings you a heavy 
> traffic of questions or requests that are enough out of your line of 
> interest that they would be much more work than fun to answer, it can 
> be a problem.  (Either you try to answer the questions anyway and get 
> annoyed, or you ignore them or brush them off, and then the 
> questioners -- who might otherwise have gone to a website of someone 
> who _was_ interested in their questions -- get annoyed.)

Good point.  I've dealt with this on an infrequent basis, but most of my mail is made up of kids looking for research material, or asking me to basically write the paper for them... 

> 
> I get a little taste of this with my historic name articles on the 
> web (although I don't have a site of my own).  Just today I traced 
> down _one_ of the sources of some of my odd requests: someone told me 
> that Ask Jeeves told her to ask me her "what does my Gaelic name 
> mean" question.  (I also get a lot of, "Can you trace my genealogy?" 
> questions because people who run genealogy sites have linked to my 
> articles.)  Friends of mine who run medieval history sites have 
> occasionally discovered that their sites have been linked to "people 
> you can ask to do the research for your term paper that's due 
> tomorrow" sites.

LOL.  Yeah, my site must be on that list... Much of this problem was cleared up, however, when I posted a lengthly diatribe on my "About Me" page stating precisely what the site was there for and what I would and wouldn't do for the reader.  I haven't been getting as much of the "research" email since I published the site, but I did get one interesting email last week from a professional costumer who took an awful lot of offense at my "condesending" tone of that particular page (she stopped short of calling me a "garb nazi", but leveled just about every other insult she could).  I can sincerely see how that page might be taken the wrong way... I'm pretty brutally honest about what I do and what people can expect from the site and from me, and I suppose if you're in the wrong frame of mind it might come across as being something other than honest.  Honestly, though, it was born out of sheer frustration with people who would email me and either beg me to make them a costume (f!
lattering, really, but not what I do), offer to buy my costumes (again, flattering, but sorry they're not for sale) or harass me for information on "clothes from the midevill (sic) time" for their school reports.  

Sarah Lorraine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 10:16:31 -0800
Status: RO

The following website gives concise information on when US copyrighted
works fall  into the public domain:

http://www.unc.edu/~unclng/public-d.htm

Some comments on the various messages on this topic:

The only way to find out whether registration for a work has been
renewed is to do a search in the Copyright Office, have a professional
search firm do it, or contact the creator of the work (or publisher,
or someone with definite legal information) and ask them.

You need to respect the copyright law of the country in which the work
was copyrighted.  According to my lawyer, if a work was copyrighted in
two countries--say Great Britain and the US--you need to go by the
longer copyright period of the two.

Any additions or changes to a modern reprint of a public-domain work
or works are copyrighted.  This includes anthologies, editing of the
original text or illustrations, addition of new materials,
translations, etc.  All our books are registered under modern
copyright law.

According to my lawyer, if a work is now clearly in the public domain,
new legislation can't take it out of the public domain again.  Changes
extending the term of copyright were done before the copyrights of the
works in question actually expired.  Also, I believe that the term of
modern copyright for a specific work can't be shortened by new
legislation--that would apply to works created later.  Generally,
legislation  has been extending copyright protection rather than
otherwise.

Although copyright laws periodically change and sometimes seem
difficult for some laypersons to understand, they are laws and it is
necessary to abide by them.  (That is, it's not legal to throw  up
your hands and say, "It's all too confusing and might change anyway,
so I'll just go ahead and use any material I find however I want.")

Fran Grimble


Angela Kovatch wrote:

> Hmmm, I still have to read these publications in more
> detail, but I think I see where some confusion is
> coming in.  Penny, you say
>
> > The current date is 1927
> > and goes back 75 years.
>
> I believe that the rule had been that for works
> created before Jan. 1, 1978, the total copyright term
> was 75 years.  However, in 1998 the "Sonny Bono"
> extension was enacted, adding 20 years onto every
> copyright term.  This means that works created in 1923
> would have expired in '98 (75 years), but works
> created in 1924 now have 95 years before they expire,
> which makes them good until 2019.
>
> But, I have heard that the Supreme Court is
> considering taking a closer look at the "Sonny Bono
> act," which could result in it being repealed or
> amended.
>

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 10:22:24 -0800
Status: RO


>the work in which the
>period piece appears may be copyrighted.

That's my situation.  The old magazine is the thing with the date on 
it.  Since the material in it was new when the magazine was new, I was 
going by the date on the magazine.  But my images of the old thing will be 
new, and my use will be for the benefit of researchers and not-for-profit, 
which should help my situation.  Another thing which will help me is that I 
plan to use my own artwork wherever possible.  I'm pretty sure I will own 
the rights to that.

Kayta
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 10:38:54 -0800
Status: RO


> > If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
> > just get together 3-4 people in your area, start a local mailing list,
>
>Sounds easy enough but where do you find those 3-4 people? Might be 
>possible in the States but I happen to live in Finland... and I used to 
>live in Korea, where it would have been even more difficult.

Speaking as a former co-president of the South Bay Costumer's Guild, now 
defunct, it's not that easy even if you live in an area well populated by 
other costumers.  You have to be good at running clubs, good at publicity, 
good at keeping the internal politics manageable, have plenty of 
time/money, and not politically offend anyone in the next-nearest 
chapter.  (While our next-nearest chapter supported us in every way they 
could, a few vocal members of it saw us only as competition, not as more 
places to play.)  And you have to plan and run events people want to 
attend.  All of the above circumstances conspired against us, and we are no 
more.

Kayta
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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sueded silk again
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:12:54 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Robin wrote:
> If so, it would be
> essentially equivalent to the effect of fulling on
> wool -- as the fibers
> stop lying flat and start to fluff up, the fabric
> becomes thicker, and
> loses some length and width.

I have to admit I'm still a little dubious about this
idea.  In my mind, one of the "essential" qualities of
fulled wool is that the fibers have locked together to
some degree.  I understand that this means it can be
used (and was, at least some in history) as a method
of finishing seams or edges of fabric. 

Think of the difference between a braid of fine blond
(human) hair, with the ends of individual hairs
sticking out along the braid, and a nice neat
dreadlock of African hair (well, okay, that might be
analogous to felt, but I think you can make dreadlocks
by starting out with braids, which is analogous to
fulling).  They're both kinda fuzzy, but the braid can
be picked out again.  And the difference between the
scaliness of wool fibers and the smoothness of silk
fibers is even greater.

Perhaps the shrinkage might, to some degree, mimic
this effect of making the fabric less prone to
fraying, as it would produce, in effect, a more
tightly-woven cloth.

Anyway, really interesting stuff about the difference
between spun and reeled silk.

-Angela


--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> Changing topics to my bizarre experience with a
> herringbone "raw" silk
> that "fulled," Gail quotes her friend again:
> 
> > First: The "felted" silk. My friend says that the
> commercial silk
> > industry does all kinds of things to fabrics to
> prepare them for
> > market, and that you probably washed out the
> sizing and perhaps other
> > chemicals that controlled the fibers, allowing
> them to do what they
> > want. Spun silk is made up of "short" fibers,
> which she says are
> > longer than wool fibers but still relatively
> short, all spun together.
> > The ends of the silk fibers stick out just like
> they do in spun wool,
> > and depending on the quality of the silk that's
> spun to begin with,
> > they will behave different ways when allowed to.
> Sizing, heat rolling,
> > and other commercial treatments make the spun silk
> stay flat like
> > reeled silk, which is silk fibers reeled straight
> from the cuccoon in
> > immense lengths (up to 1/2 mile long!).
> 
> There's no doubt that this piece was indeed a spun
> silk, and that's
> probably a fair explanation for the surface texture
> change. I wonder if
> this would explain the tremendous shrinkage I got,
> too. If so, it would be
> essentially equivalent to the effect of fulling on
> wool -- as the fibers
> stop lying flat and start to fluff up, the fabric
> becomes thicker, and
> loses some length and width.
> 
> --Robin
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:03:50 -0000
Status: RO

Hi everyone,

I'm not a member of the SCA or any similar groups; I am a researcher at the
Shakespeare Institute, Stratford upon Avon, and my research interests lie in
costume matters primarily in Tudor and early Stuart, though I stray outside
those time periods with great pleasure...

I have learned, and intend to continue learning, a great deal from the huge
range of ideas and information which comes up on h-cost, not least because
costume history is completely ignored by a very large proportion of those
who study Shakespeare and his collaborators and rivals. On Sunday, for
example, I was at a research seminar at the Globe, and noted in the context
of a potential anochronism references to codpieces in a play usually dated
around 1597. I was assailed on all sides by people convinced, apparently on
the basis of a hazy recollection of  Henry VIII's "Champion the Wonder
Horse" armour, that massive codpieces were de rigeur for all men in England
well into the reign of Charles II. And then there was the question of what
actually went into a codpiece...

best wishes to all h-costians, whatever our backgrounds,
Stevie


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:24:32 +0000
Status: RO

Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
>At 1:38 PM -0800 3/3/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:
>>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
>>the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
>>Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
>>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
>>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
>>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
>>hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
>>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
>>morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
>>anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
>>clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!
>
>
>I don't know too much about the theory, but I'll ask. I have this vague 
>feeling that earlier hoods like the gable or English hood do involve 
>pinning up lappets of a previous style, but I don't know what's 
>evolving from what.

There are some pictures that definitely seem as if the English hood 
develops from the hennin with lappets (I'm sorry, I can't reference the 
pictures, but you could start from the Visual History books - they're 
usually my first source).  I think maybe the French wore much more 
floaty linen with their hennins, but there's a very dark, sober English 
look with the V-necked gown and quite a small "flowerpot" with a very 
deep piece of velvet hung over it.  The flowerpot gets shorter and the 
lappets become more pronounced, and sometimes angled at the front to 
give that gable look. The pictures that really persuaded me were ones of 
young girls, who sometimes wear just the lappets with their hair loose 
behind.  In addition to one with the plain lappet, whose mother is 
wearing a flowerpot and V-neck gown, I found one (in the Museum of 
London, IIRC) of a girl wearing the front of an English hood, the 
lappets with the angles, with her hair loose behind in just the same 
way.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 11:32:55 -0800
Status: RO



Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> >the work in which the
> >period piece appears may be copyrighted.
>
> That's my situation.  The old magazine is the thing with the date on
> it.  Since the material in it was new when the magazine was new, I was
> going by the date on the magazine.  But my images of the old thing will be
> new, and my use will be for the benefit of researchers and not-for-profit,
> which should help my situation.  Another thing which will help me is that I
> plan to use my own artwork wherever possible.  I'm pretty sure I will own
> the rights to that.
>

I don't have your original message any more . . . but as to "for the benefit of
researchers and not-for-profit."  Neither in itself  makes the use of
copyrighted material legal.  "Educational use" does not legally apply  to just
anyone wanting to learn something.  "Fair use" for educational purposes
actually seems to apply to formal classroom use and then only under certain
circumstances (such as, there was not enough time to have students buy the
text, only a certain quantity of the work may be used, etc.). "Not for
profit"--what is at issue is whether the market for a copyrighted work is
damaged by the use of it. Which can take place even if--or even because--the
person reusing the work does not charge for it.

Fran


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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:35:02 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO



> Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your
> mailboxes, people.

Eliz,
could you remind me how to unsub?  Thanks!


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 14:55:49 -0500
Status: RO




I've been stealing USPS envelopes from the mailroom at school for years for 
the Tyvek.... makes great stencils!

Parsla


>So I bet a lot of you are wondering what Tyvek is?  You all have it in your
>homes!  The little labels on your furniture that states that this label can
>not be removed under penalty of law.  You have tried to remove it by hand
>and it won't rip, then you have to cut it with scissors... that label's
>textile is Tyvek.  And strength is its #1 advantage!  This textile is also
>used for envelopes... the big soft white ones that are the dickens to open.
>Guess who they were manufacturing Tyvek for tonight?  UPS.  They are going
>to make envelopes out of the textile.  Remember how I said it is the 
>dickens
>to get into those Tyvek envelopes?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 04:52:12 +0800
Status: RO

Ironically, I actually put this same thing together this morning after someone on another list rather unintentionally mentioned the same theory about a version of the truncated hennin being the support for the french hood... Hehehehe.  I'm really excited about this new development.  I can't wait to see if it works... :)

Thanks to everyone for all the help!

Sarah

-----Original Message-----
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:24:32 +0000 
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...


> Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
> >At 1:38 PM -0800 3/3/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:
> >>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
> >>the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
> >>Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
> >>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
> >>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
> >>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
> >>hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
> >>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
> >>morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
> >>anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
> >>clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!
> >
> >
> >I don't know too much about the theory, but I'll ask. I have this vague 
> >feeling that earlier hoods like the gable or English hood do involve 
> >pinning up lappets of a previous style, but I don't know what's 
> >evolving from what.
> 
> There are some pictures that definitely seem as if the English hood 
> develops from the hennin with lappets (I'm sorry, I can't reference the 
> pictures, but you could start from the Visual History books - they're 
> usually my first source).  I think maybe the French wore much more 
> floaty linen with their hennins, but there's a very dark, sober English 
> look with the V-necked gown and quite a small "flowerpot" with a very 
> deep piece of velvet hung over it.  The flowerpot gets shorter and the 
> lappets become more pronounced, and sometimes angled at the front to 
> give that gable look. The pictures that really persuaded me were ones of 
> young girls, who sometimes wear just the lappets with their hair loose 
> behind.  In addition to one with the plain lappet, whose mother is 
> wearing a flowerpot and V-neck gown, I found one (in the Museum of 
> London, IIRC) of a girl wearing the front of an English hood, the 
> lappets with the angles, with her hair loose behind in just the same 
> way.
> 
> Jean
> 
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

-- 


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Subject: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:09:47 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I might have asked this question before...do any of you know of a
cheaper source of corset coutil? I have been ordering from Greenberg
and Hammer, but I am still looking for a better price.  

mirv


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Check out my new EBay store: http://www.ebaystores.com/darkthreadsdesigns
My personal page: http://www.geocities.com/mirv_sewing/
My business Web site (under construction): http://www.darkthreads.com/
Adventure can be real happiness.--Fortune Cookie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:23:34 -0800
Status: RO


> But my images of the old thing
> will be new, and my use will be for the benefit of researchers and
> not-for-profit, which should help my situation. 

That may not be of help to you. You really should either contact a 
copyright lawyer (not just a regular lawyer. That's like asking a 
pediatrician about cardiac bypass. I'm a pediatrician and it's very 
apt). Either that or go to one of the sites that has been mentioned 
(especially ones regarding fair use doctrine).

I had always thought that I was pretty safe as long as I was not 
benefiting financially but it was for a not-for-profit organization, but 
that isn't always the case.

 Another thing which
> will help me is that I plan to use my own artwork wherever possible. 
> I'm pretty sure I will own the rights to that.

It depends on your artwork! 

I was very surprised when I took the copyright class to learn that if I 
did a line drawing based on an image still under copyright, that was 
considered copyright infringement. (The restriction is law is based 
on trademarks. Although I would never think of it as being a 
trademark, the applicable laws do consider it as such.) 

Another thing that I found interesting is that if I take an image or 
recipe or song for comparison to another image/recipe/song and do 
a detailed analysis of it, I'm not as likely to have violated copyright 
than if I had just put the image/recipe/song there. The comparison, 
evidently, is considered "critical review" or somesuch thing.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:23:34 -0800
Status: RO

F
> Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
> >At 1:38 PM -0800 3/3/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:
> >>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's
> >>Florigilium on the topic of a unique method of constructing a french
> >>hood, described by Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a
> >>single piece of fabric with a turned back "brim" that was shaped
> >>into the coronet structure (this is at least what I was getting from
> >>her discription).  This totally goes against 99% of what the rest of
> >>the costuming world has been doing with french hoods, but her
> >>reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
> >>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and
> >>gradually morphing into the structure we consider the french hood. 
> >>Does anyone know anything else about this method, or if Susanna is
> >>reachable for further clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her
> >>idea!
> >
> >
> >I don't know too much about the theory, but I'll ask. I have this
> >vague feeling that earlier hoods like the gable or English hood do
> >involve pinning up lappets of a previous style, but I don't know
> >what's evolving from what.

Jean Waddie replied:
> There are some pictures that definitely seem as if the English hood
> develops from the hennin with lappets (I'm sorry, I can't reference
> the pictures, but you could start from the Visual History books -
> they're usually my first source).  I think maybe the French wore much
> more floaty linen with their hennins, but there's a very dark, sober
> English look with the V-necked gown and quite a small "flowerpot" with
> a very deep piece of velvet hung over it.  The flowerpot gets shorter
> and the lappets become more pronounced, and sometimes angled at the
> front to give that gable look. The pictures that really persuaded me
> were ones of young girls, who sometimes wear just the lappets with
> their hair loose behind.  In addition to one with the plain lappet,
> whose mother is wearing a flowerpot and V-neck gown, I found one (in
> the Museum of London, IIRC) of a girl wearing the front of an English
> hood, the lappets with the angles, with her hair loose behind in just
> the same way.

I've been doing quite a bit of research on the French Hood over the 
last several years. I do believe it started out as a variation on the 
various types of hoods (which you see all over Europe in various 
shapes at the end of the 15th Century) but then developed into 
other things. In France they seem to have developed into a hood 
either attached to the top of a paste (which is the period name for 
the horseshoe) or having the paste laid on top of the hood. The 
biliments (which is the period term, but also spelled habiliments, 
billiments, bylyments and all sorts of other spellings in the 
inventories) was what held the hood and the paste together. The 
paste is listed separately in the inventories of Henry VIII 
(sometimes in combination with the biliments both upper and 
lower, sometimes with just one or the other), so I don't think it is 
just an turned back part of the hood, which is often listed 
separately as well. 

Also, one might think by my "either attached to the top or laid on" 
that I'm not sure which it is. Actually, I'm sure based on what I have 
found that both were done. The "attached to the top" method 
seems to be more common in the Anne Boleyn through Kateryne 
Parr period in time (but in France they seemed to have used the 
same methods during the same time period), but the laid on top 
method more common both before and after that. (Perhaps in that 
15 to 20 year period they were experimenting with the other 
method. Whatever reason, it went both ways.)

The same original hood in England developed very differently and 
used the lappets far more: the pedimented hoods, which then 
evolved into the gable hoods. (Which I've also been researching, 
but haven't quite got things worked out to my satisfaction on how 
they are put together. Although Jean's method is one of the closest 
I've found for them. Thanks, Jean, for the information. I got even 
more pics of those headdress wires from the MOL when I was in 
England in 1999. They have far more in storage than the two on 
display, although they pulled the ones from the display for me to 
photograph more closely.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Ulrika A. O'Brien" <uaobrien@uci.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:29:15 -0800
Status: RO

I can't vouch for them, because I just googled "coutil" to
see what came up, but there's a UK shop that seems to have
pretty good prices:

http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/index.htm

I've only bought coutil from AlterYears, so I don't
have a sense of what Greenberg and Hammer charge.

A friend of mine found coutil very cheap in the shop at
the Los Angeles Fashion Institute, in an odd shade of
teal, so if you have some similar teaching institution
handy, it might be worth checking to see if they
sell off their end lots and such.


At 01:09 PM 3/5/2002, you wrote:
>I might have asked this question before...do any of you know of a
>cheaper source of corset coutil? I have been ordering from Greenberg
>and Hammer, but I am still looking for a better price.
>
>mirv
>
>
>=====
>Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
>Check out my new EBay store: http://www.ebaystores.com/darkthreadsdesigns
>My personal page: http://www.geocities.com/mirv_sewing/
>My business Web site (under construction): http://www.darkthreads.com/
>Adventure can be real happiness.--Fortune Cookie
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
>http://mail.yahoo.com/
>_______________________________________________
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  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 14:12:01 -0800
Status: RO

While those discussing this thread may not agree with the
text of the following web page, it does provide a handy
reference for pictures of various stages of the French hood:

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/frenchhood.html







  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:13:48 -0600
Status: RO

Kat,
Do you have pictures up anyplace on your french hoods?  It would be 
fantastic to see them other than in a portrait.

Thanks
-- 
Linda Thompson
www.seams-to-be.com where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:41:00 -0800
Status: RO


> Kat,
> Do you have pictures up anyplace on your french hoods?  It would be
> fantastic to see them other than in a portrait.

Sorry, I don't have a website (and for copyright reasons would never 
put my article or documentation on the web). I've made several of 
them but I only show one (because the others have things that I 
don't like people to emulate, like embroidery on the paste, which I 
can't find *any* documentation for. Goldsmith work abounds, but 
not the embroidery type of goldwork.

A friend of mine keeps telling me that she will take pictures and put 
them on her website, but it never seems to get done. (And it's 
pretty hard to catch me holding still for a picture. There's a reason I 
was a runway model as a child, not a catalog model! I am anything 
but photogenic.) 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: playing at different levels (was Re: [h-cost] Why are you on
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 17:42:54 -0500
Status: RO

>> just about every extreme, and then some:)
> 
> Everyone seems to have their own authenticity bug.  And people who are
> authentic in one field are usually not in some other field.  My costumes
> are such that I get called a 'costume Laurel' in the SCA, and I've been a
> historical judge at 3 different CostumeCons.  OTOH, at mealtimes I sneak
> off to my car, open a can of something, and stick the spoon right in it to
> eat, no heat, no preparation.  (An 'iced tea' spoon will reach all the way
> to the bottom of a can of soup and still stick out far enough to not get
> your fingers icky.)  I am in awe of real cooks.
> 
> Kayta
Many of my local friends are cooking laurels/apprentices who go to events
loaded w/enough food to feed everyone there. Oddly enough, they wonder how I
can go to an event with just my garb, coronet and a goblet. Why cook when
you don't have to?!
laurie

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 14:56:14 -0800
Status: RO

Try 'hover-craft'.

>The supervisors ride around in huba-crafts (sp).  They are
>magnetically charged and float around about an inch off of the floor.... so
>Star War-ish!

I mostly know about Tyvek from construction, where sheets of it are used as 
water barriers inside walls.

Did they say how to clean Tyvek windbreakers?  Spot-cleaned with a sponge?

Kayta
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 15:31:37 -0800
Status: RO


>  Another thing which
> > will help me is that I plan to use my own artwork wherever possible.
> > I'm pretty sure I will own the rights to that.
>
>It depends on your artwork!
>
>I was very surprised when I took the copyright class to learn that if I
>did a line drawing based on an image still under copyright, that was
>considered copyright infringement.

Well, at least I got one thing right.  I was thinking of creating my own 
incidental graphics for the site, and putting up some of my original 
graphic work, none of which is based on copyrighted material.  In addition, 
I was thinking of doing a Janet Arnold/Nancy Bradfield on some of my 
antique garments, for when the photos need a little clarification.

All you other website owners must have had tons of fun checking everything 
on your own websites.  I'll start with nothing published after my mother 
was born (1924), I'll visit all those copyright sites you folks mentioned, 
and then we'll see what I actually get to use..


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:07:48 -0800
Status: RO


>Many of my local friends are cooking laurels/apprentices who go to events
>loaded w/enough food to feed everyone there. Oddly enough, they wonder how I
>can go to an event with just my garb, coronet and a goblet. Why cook when
>you don't have to?!

I don't have a coronet, but I do have a plate, bowl, and spoon.  Other than 
that I couldn't agree with you more.  I do have a fairly authentic set of 
clothes for when it's my turn to work in the kitchen-like-place my old 
group at Ren. Faire had.  I volunteer to do my share washing dishes and 
carrying filled bowls out and empty ones back, and the real cook-types like 
that.

Cooking-costume content:  real cooks tell me that they wear wool aprons 
when cooking on campfires/open hearths, because wool deals best (=most 
safely) with flying sparks.


Kayta
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:40:40 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 5 Mar 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> All you other website owners must have had tons of fun checking
> everything on your own websites.  I'll start with nothing published
> after my mother was born (1924), I'll visit all those copyright sites
> you folks mentioned, and then we'll see what I actually get to use..

My impression is that many website owners *don't* do such checking. I'm
rather disturbed to see just how many images of artworks, pattern
sketches, etc. are lifted from museum sites, in-copyright books, etc. and
reproduced on costume websites. Just because an image comes from a
centuries-old book or painting doesn't mean that the photograph of it is
not under copyright. (Though there was a very recent court decision, now
under appea; I think, that presented the possibility that reproductions of
out-of-copyright two-dimensional artwork are themselves not copyrightable.
The validity and application of this premise remains to be determined.) In
any case, it's easy enough to link to an existing museum site if you want
to show people an artwork that's already webbed.

Not long ago, a friend of mine found that costume drawings she had made
for a class handout (and posted on her own website) had been re-posted,
without her knowledge, to a yahoo group, to be used as a reference by
members of that group. She was not averse to sharing the information, but
she was disturbed that it was reprinted without the context of the rest of
the article, and improperly credited too. She pointed out to the reposter
that it would be more useful to simply refer people to her own website,
but I believe the reposter responded by simply correcting the credit line.
Giving credit does not relieve you of the need to get permission to repost
someone's work.

I note my copyright on all handouts I do for my lectures, not because I'm
trying to withhold material, but because I want to approve its use and
reproduction in controlled contexts. I provide my contact information and
ask explictly that the material not be reproduced without my permission.  
Many of my lectures are for SCA groups, and there is an strong culture of
information-sharing in the SCA. This in itself is admirable, but I have
found it also leads to a lot of Xeroxing and emailing and wholesale
distribution of materials in the name of "helping people," without an
understanding that copyright still applies even if you are not getting
money, even if you're in a nonprofit educational organization, and even if
your motives are pure.

Interestingly, I found much the same culture when I worked for a magazine
published by a branch of the U.S. government. Materials prepared by U.S.
government employees for U.S. government publications are free of
copyright and may be reproduced at will, but our magazine included
third-party photos and artwork for which we had to pay for permissions for
one-time use. Periodically we'd discover that another government
publication had seen something in our magazine ... and picked it up,
uncredited, for their own publications, under the assumption that if it
was in a government publication it was theirs to use. I thought of this
when a photographer friend of mine found that some of his copyrighted
photos of an SCA event had been picked up and reposted, uncredited, on an
SCA website -- the site owners apparently thought that all SCA photos were
fair game for use by all SCA branches. Gaak...

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:43:21 +1300
Status: RO

> Even with that you have to be careful, as the work in which the
> period piece appears may be copyrighted. (To paraphrase from the
> copyright class I took recently.)


A nice example of this, is the musical Phantom of the Opera. All the
characters costumes, sets etc are the property of the RUG, and even when
they end a show and dump items in the trash, they are able to charge people
collecting them: reselling or keeping as collectors items.

And the actual creation of the show is interesting, in this reagrds too. ALW
found an original printing of the book (1911) and was able to write the play
because that book was out of copyright. Never mind there were reprintings
that were within copyright.

That was 1985 in England and as discussed the laws are really confusing and
different over time and place. I just found it interesting in light of this
discussion.

Also, I found in some older collector doll magazines a mass produced doll so
obviously based on the idea of a OOAK, but with no mention of them procuring
rights etc, or explaining their inspiration. I have yet to discover what
came about from that.

michaela
http://recital.tripod.com
so how does this affect people who recreate a costume? With self drafted
patterns that obviously deiate from the original with fabrics that are only
in passing the same.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Report Back from DuPont TextileTour
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 20:44:34 -0500
Status: RO

Kayta,

The only thing they said was that the winder breakers could be machine
washed but only about 6 times.  After that the textile would start breaking
down.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: Lynn Downward <lynnie1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 18:20:45 -0800
Status: RO

Not SCA.  Was part of the California Ren. Faire for 23 years, now retired.
I'm still working the Dickens Faire in San Francisco and the smaller ren
fair in San Luis Obispo.
LynnD
----- Original Message -----
From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 9:47 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


>
> In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:
>
> << > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared
toward
> SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type
threads
> here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>
>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.
If
> you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with
and
> each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
> numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
> there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
> chattier/more vocal.
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 21:18:24 -0600
Status: RO

I thought the CSA meeting was in Minneapolis?  Or am I confusing it with 
Ars Textrina?  I was planning to go...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:06 AM 3/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Karen,
>
>You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of America
>meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone else going to
>Chicago in June for CSA?
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> >
> > I've been on h-costume since summer of '97, and I've enjoyed both the
> > discussions we've had on the board, and meeting folks from the list in
> > person (Hi Teddy, Mel, Danielle, Melanie, Drea, Deb, and everyone else
> > I've had the pleasure of meeting). This list is a constant source of
> > inspiration!
> >
> >
> > Karen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 22:34:25 -0500
Status: RO

Danielle,

CSA National is in Chicago the first week of June.  You might be thinking of
a region's meeting.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


> I thought the CSA meeting was in Minneapolis?  Or am I confusing it with
> Ars Textrina?  I was planning to go...
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> At 02:06 AM 3/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Karen,
> >
> >You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of America
> >meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone else going
to
> >Chicago in June for CSA?
> >
> >Penny Ladnier
> >Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> >http://www.costumegallery.com
> >http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I've been on h-costume since summer of '97, and I've enjoyed both the
> > > discussions we've had on the board, and meeting folks from the list in
> > > person (Hi Teddy, Mel, Danielle, Melanie, Drea, Deb, and everyone else
> > > I've had the pleasure of meeting). This list is a constant source of
> > > inspiration!
> > >
> > >
> > > Karen
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 22:52:34 -0600
Status: RO

I have a question for the corset-makers out there...

A friend has been having difficulties constructing a corset for herself. She
explains the problem as that she is pear-shaped, and so the corsets she has
made tend to ride up on her. Or as she described it (paraphrase) "I don't
have any sort of hourglass shape in the waist to keep the corset where it
belongs." If she can get a corset to fit, it flattens her out more than what
she is looking for. (She basically wants *some* cleavage, and it tends to
create *none*). She said she tried Drea's pattern generator, but it did not
work out well. I have not yet seen her attempts, so I can't give much more
details than that.

It sounds like she needs something that will keep the corset sitting where
it is supposed to. I do not have this problem, as I am quite hourglass
shaped and the corset stays just fine :-)

Any hints, tips, instructions, details that we can use to draft up a corset
that will work for her? Thanks!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:42:32 -0700
Status: RO

No, not me....*sigh*....I actually think the next time I'm traveling out
of town for anything (at all) will be July, when I'm headed up to Canada
for an SCA event.  I'm trying really, really hard to be a good girl, and
save all my money and vacation time for my trip to England this
September.....
--Sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Karen,
> 
> You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of America
> meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone else going to
> Chicago in June for CSA?
> 
> Penny Ladnier
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 00:40:10 2002
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:21:31 -0800
Status: RO

Back in about 1978 I attended my first Northern Renaissance Pleasure Faire. 
And was hooked! I started out with the Scottish group (Clan Colin, no 
longer at Faire; then helped found St. Brigid's, also no longer at Faire), 
then joined the Guild of St. George, portraying a member of Queen 
Elizabeth's Court. Been doing that ever since. Love it!
My next group was the SCA. I retained my liking for 16th Century 
English-Scottish history. I've been toying with the idea of getting back 
into active status (a lot of that is due to Robin Netherton's very 
interesting discussions on the 4-panel Gothic dress that sounds *very* 
comfortable for SCA camping uses).
Then there is my by now 20+-year-old interest in pre-Gold Rush California; 
at Sutter's Fort we represent 1846. I am a member of the Women's Costume 
Committee. This is the group I like to hand-sew my garments for (mainly 
because I *like* handsewing <g>); many of them think I'm nuts, but 
h-costumers understand.
I have also, at various times, participated in the Dickens Christmas Fair 
(not as often as I would like due to the distance from home and the fact I 
still need to work full-time).
My latest venture is as a founding member of the Greater Sacramento Area 
Costumers' Guild (GSACG). I can second Kayta's statements about the amount 
of work even a small club requires. We are still hanging in there and going 
into our 3rd (!) year. But you do need dedicated people who have the time, 
energy, and talent to organize things.
I don't exactly remember how I found out about h-costume, but it's one of 
my favorite discussion lists. And you keep bringing up fascinating bits 
that make me want to try out *lots* of different places and times. It's 
great fun having discussions with people from all around the world.
I'm just thinking about the fact that in less than 3 years I will be able 
to retire from my State job. The world will open even more...

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 00:37:32 -0600
Status: RO

Has she tried shortening the bodies by an inch or two? It might not be a
tightness issue, it might be a hip issue. If she is very 'pear shaped',
the motion of her hips while walking (dancing?) might be pushing the
corset up. Just a thought.


Karen
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 "from Joe Cool at Mar 5, 2002 11:35:02 am"
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 23:08:36 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

It's right in the mail headers of every piece of mail sent to the list;

> List-Help: <mailto:h-costume-request@mail.indra.com?subject=help>
> List-Post: <mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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> List-Id: Re-creating period costume,






> 
> 
> > Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your
> > mailboxes, people.
> 
> Eliz,
> could you remind me how to unsub?  Thanks!
> 
> 
> =====
> --cin
> Cynthia
> hysteria95126@yahoo.com
> 
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Copyright (Was: I'm a costumer, not a webmaster)
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 08:36:52 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Following on from the discussion on copyright issues in different countries I found the following
site which has a brief run-down on the state of things this side of the pond.
http://www.patent.gov.uk/copy/

Basically copyright lasts for 70 years after the death of the author.  There are a number of
things that you should be aware of.  It is actaully copyright infrigement to download anything off
the internet without the express permission of the owner as it is classified as copying.  I
believe this applies equally for anything that originates in the UK and the EC.

Rachel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Copyright (Was: I'm a costumer, not a webmaster)
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 03:35:08 -0500
Status: RO

So this is why all the British students write me!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Rachel" <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 3:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Copyright (Was: I'm a costumer, not a webmaster)


> Following on from the discussion on copyright issues in different
countries I found the following
> site which has a brief run-down on the state of things this side of the
pond.
> http://www.patent.gov.uk/copy/
>
> Basically copyright lasts for 70 years after the death of the author.
There are a number of
> things that you should be aware of.  It is actaully copyright infrigement
to download anything off
> the internet without the express permission of the owner as it is
classified as copying.  I
> believe this applies equally for anything that originates in the UK and
the EC.
>
> Rachel
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 04:10:17 2002
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Date: Wed,  6 Mar 2002 09:52:10 +0000
Status: RO

> > It is actaully copyright infrigement
> to download anything off
> > the internet without the express permission of the owner as it is
> classified as copying.  I
> > believe this applies equally for anything that originates in the UK and
> the EC.

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote :

> So this is why all the British students write me!
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com

More likely to be the quality of your site. Or its listing on search engines. Or both.

I can't see anything on your front page that screams "this is American!", so I doubt if they know or care what country you're in.  That's the great thing about the INTERnet: it's international. 

Of course, when it comes to law, this does get complicated. In my day job, I work for an American company, but I'm British and based in Britain. We run web-sites aimed at German, French and various other European countries. The web servers are in Britain, the company is American, but we sell and operate under the laws of whichever country the customer's in: so if someone in (say) China copies a picture off a French site, whose laws do they get done under?  I dunno. I leave that to our legal department.








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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 05:11:57 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 05:52:51 -0500
Status: RO

    You might try Farthingales www.farthingales.on.ca for corset coutil.
Their services and prices are good. I know she ships anywhere.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 05:27:50 2002
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 12:20:52 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

I bought white cotton damast and painted it.
I wanted to make it a warm yellow but it turned out orange.
Yes! Orange!

I don't know what I can do with it.
Is this fabrick o.k. for an Italian renaissance dress?
Or is the pattern too modern?
The colour to orange?
I think it will look great with an over dress of dark green.
Mmmm....


http://members.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/fabrick

Greetings,
        Deredere


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 08:08:21 2002
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 07:50:29 -0600
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> Not long ago, a friend of mine found that costume drawings she had made
> for a class handout (and posted on her own website) had been re-posted,
> without her knowledge, to a yahoo group, to be used as a reference by
> members of that group. She was not averse to sharing the information, but
> she was disturbed that it was reprinted without the context of the rest of
> the article, and improperly credited too.

I have come across another costume website that has grabbed a photo of
me from my site (of me in my Elizabethan underwear, no less!), and
posted it to their site.  They didn't ask my permission that I recall,
but at least they credit it to me and put a link to my site right beside it.

Another imaginative soul had taken my houppelande photo and pasted Queen
Amidala's head on it for a future Star Wars fashions site!

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:19:37 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/5/2002 10:18:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dannw@mediaone.net writes:

<<  thought the CSA meeting was in Minneapolis?  Or am I confusing it with 
 Ars Textrina?  I was planning to go...
  >>
CSA is in Chicago, at the Drake Hotel, June 5-8.  It may be Ars Textrina that 
is in Minneapolis--I don't keep up with it anymore.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabrick question
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 07:38:33 -0700
Status: RO

I'm sure that people like Teddy and Danielle would be glad to "adopt" it
and give it a good home for you <g>
--Sue

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I bought white cotton damast and painted it.
> I wanted to make it a warm yellow but it turned out orange.
> Yes! Orange!
> 
> I don't know what I can do with it.
> Is this fabrick o.k. for an Italian renaissance dress?
> Or is the pattern too modern?
> The colour to orange?
> I think it will look great with an over dress of dark green.
> Mmmm....
> 
> http://members.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/fabrick
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 08:49:18 -0600
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

>
>Giving credit does not relieve you of the need to get permission to repost
>someone's work.
>

Two words.  "Fair Use"  I'm not particularly disagreeing with your post, 
but we do have to remember fair use lest the government finish 
destroying the concept.  Fair Use says that if I use a small portion of 
your work, such that it does not destroy the value of your work, and I 
credit you and the specific work I am quoting, it is legal.

So, if I use the miniscule portion that pertains to sixteenth century 
shirts of a large costume book on my website with proper attributions, I 
am covered by fair use.  If I scan Janet Arnold's article on sixteenth 
and seventeenth century shirts & post it, I am really, really violating 
copyright.  If I use one of her diagrams from the article, I am in the 
grey area.  If I took Kipar's picture of the columbine boy's shirt, that 
would be a violation.  Besides, it takes me less space to link to it. 
 ;>  If I use a closeup picture of the armpit from Levy's lace book, I 
haven't destroyed the value of the book.  If I were to finally get my 
hands on the New Caroligian Modelbook, and scanned the needlework 
pattern from the columbine shirt, I would be damaging the value of the book.

All that said, I'm not really disagreeing with your post.  You just 
hadn';t mentioned fair use, and it _is_ important.

-Magdalena

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:07:24 EST
Status: RO

A revision of the copyright law is under consideration in the U.S. Congress.  
It is particularly interesting because it would involve extending rights yet 
again.  And it seems that, philosophically, not only are copyright laws 
designed to protect the creator, but also to insure public access and, 
eventually, public domain.  There is debate as to whether it is fair to keep 
retroactively extending copyright, virtually forever, as the whole idea 
orignally was that, eventually, rights would expire and the public would have 
free access.  I'm not sure when this is set to come before Congress again or 
what the outcome will be--just heard a snippet of this discussion on NPR.
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 11:36:29 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:35:03 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I wrote:
> >Giving credit does not relieve you of the need to get permission to repost
> >someone's work.

Magdalena reminded us:
> Fair Use says that if I use a small portion of 
> your work, such that it does not destroy the value of your work, and I 
> credit you and the specific work I am quoting, it is legal. ...
> All that said, I'm not really disagreeing with your post.  You just 
> hadn';t mentioned fair use, and it _is_ important.

Yes, that's true, but let me elaborate on that further. I've spent my
lifetime in the publishing business, and have come to be acutely aware
that the *context* in which you use something is as important to a judge's
determination of fair use as is the quantity and proportion of material
re-used. Fair use is generally understood only to apply in cases of
criticism, review, or scholarship. So, if I'm analyzing a book in an
article for an academic journal or a review for a magazine, I can quote
snippets from it (though not a whole chapter!). But I might not be able to
reprint the same material in another context.

In my earlier post I described this situation:

> Not long ago, a friend of mine found that costume drawings she had
> made for a class handout (and posted on her own website) had been
> re-posted, without her knowledge, to a yahoo group, to be used as a
> reference by members of that group. She was not averse to sharing the
> information, but she was disturbed that it was reprinted without the
> context of the rest of the article, and improperly credited too. She
> pointed out to the reposter that it would be more useful to simply
> refer people to her own website, but I believe the reposter responded
> by simply correcting the credit line. Giving credit does not relieve
> you of the need to get permission to repost someone's work.

In this case, the reposter simply took a diagram of a garment construction
from my friend's handout and stuck it into the Files section of that Yahoo
group. The only text on it was the caption, which was amended to say
something like "Construction of a 16th-century shirt, drawn by Mary
Jones." (though it wasn't a shirt, and her name isn't Mary Jones.) The
reposter put a post out at the same time to alert people that she had
added this to the files, but there was no discussion of the validity,
source, or context of the image, and even if there had been, the
discussion would not be apparent to people who went through the Files
section at a later date and found the image. Lacking any clear context of
analysis or discussion, the credit alone was not sufficient for the
reposter to claim fair use -- it was a clear violation.

I have since noticed that there are many such images stuck in the Files
sections of certain groups, including images of historic artworks that are
most likely taken from museum sites or in-copyright books. Without an
accompanying analysis, these images stand alone, and do not represent fair
use. (If there were some way to link each image to the discussion about it
in the group's archives, that might help.)

So, to look at your examples in this light:

> So, if I use the miniscule portion that pertains to sixteenth century
> shirts of a large costume book on my website with proper attributions,
> I am covered by fair use.

If you are analyzing, critiquing, or commenting on Arnold's treatment,
that would generally be seen as fair use. But suppose you were writing
your own costume book, with lots of little sections, each describing a
particular type of garment, and instead of writing your own 2-3 paragraphs
on 16th-c. shirts, you dropped in Arnold's equivalent passage whole (with
a footnote) because you figure she said it better than you could and you
didn't have anything more to add. A judge would probably consider that a
violation. (And it's the judge's opinion that matters, not yours.)

Remember, though, that the *information* Arnold presents is not
copyrighted; copyright applies to the *wording*. If you presented your own
paraphrase of Arnold's information, without lifting whole sentences and
paragraphs intact, you are on firmer ground. Credit in such a case is
considered a sign of academic honesty and further establishes that you are
paraphrasing rather than plagiarizing, but the legality doesn't revolve
strictly around the use of credit.

> If I use one of her diagrams from the article, I am in the 
> grey area.

This is harder. Some judges may view any single image as a whole, even if
it is part of a series of images, or only one image from an article.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] someplace to wear costumes
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:18:40 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


For those of you looking for a place to wear 19th century costumes in
Massachusetts....

Just a reminder that we will be having a Tea Dance this Sunday, with
Patri Pugliese teaching and leading dances of the mid-19th century,
such as Waltz, Polka, Schottische, contras, and quadrilles.

As usual, we will have scrumptious refreshments unrivalled throughout
the dance world.  Except, of course, at CVD's balls, where the same
cooks ply their trade...

Music brought to you through the miracle of electronics.

Attire: casual -- that is, period daywear, if you have it and want to
wear it, or something modern and comfortable to dance in; women are
requested to wear a skirt rather than trousers, and men the reverse;
T-shirts are frowned on...and shorts are Right Out.

Price: still a lowly $5.

Location: the First Unitarian Society of Newton, 1326 Washington Street.

For details, directions, or to resolve dilemmas, call or write:
(617) 964-7684, or michael@vintagedancers.org.  Please note, any of
you who have my MEDIAONE address in your address books, that that
address is changing; use the vintagedancers address to be sure of
reaching me.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 10:16:11 -0800
Status: RO

>
>
> This is harder. Some judges may view any single image as a whole, even if
> it is part of a series of images, or only one image from an article.
>
> -

One image (photo, drawing, pattern diagram)  is legally a whole, because it can
be sold and re-sold separately for different articles, books, etc, not
necessarily in combination with the other images it was originally published
with.   Photographers and artists resell individual images all the time.

The purpose of fair use is not to relieve you of the work of creating images,
writing text, etc. by using other people's work in whole or in part, by itself or
combined with bits quoted from numerous creators.  Its purpose is to allow you to
quote those other works for criticism, comment, review, analysis, etc.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
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Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
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       I am not up on Italian Ren, but if the color on my monitor is close to 
accurate, it is a gorgeous color and should be fabulous under dark green.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am not up on Italian Ren, but if the color on my monitor is close to accurate, it is a gorgeous color and should be fabulous under dark green.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:17:11 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> A revision of the copyright law is under
> consideration in the U.S. Congress.  
> It is particularly interesting because it would
> involve extending rights yet 
> again.  

Ann-
Do you happen to remember any more details about this
(approx. what day you heard it on, which show...)?  I
am very curious about this.  When I searched NPR's
website, the only related story I could come up with
was the one I saw in the New York Times recently,
about the US Supreme Court (not Congress) agreeing to
review the current laws and decide whether the 1998
extension was in fact legal, which might result in it
getting reversed, thus shortening copyright from
current terms.  Apparently the Constitution mentions
the argument you gave - that the original intent was
for works to eventually fall into the public domain -
so extending copyright repeatedly and indefinitely
might be decided to be unconstitutional.  (One of the
biggest visible supporters of the extensions is
Disney, because some early Mickey Mouse images would
be about to fall into the public domain.)

I would find it very curious if new legislation is
being considered at the same time the current
legislation is being questioned and might end up being
thrown out.  But then again, our congressmen&women
don't always do things in the way that makes most
sense. :)

-Angela

>From NPR's website:

This segment is from
All Things Considered 
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 

Listen to Segment
Listen to Entire Show
View Program Segments 

Supreme Court - Copyright Law
NPR's Rick Karr reports the Supreme Court has agreed
to hear a challenge to the 1998 Sonny Bono Copyright
Term Extension Act, which added twenty years to the
term of all future copyrights and all existing
copyrights. Some copyrights now last as long as
ninety-five years. Librarians, online civil
libertarians, and film preservationists opposed the
legislation, saying few materials copyrighted since
the nineteen twenties have passed into the public
domain and the Bono Act only makes the situation
worse. (3:00) 


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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:29:06 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/6/2002 1:18:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
a_kovatch@yahoo.com writes:

<< agreeing to
 review the current laws and decide whether the 1998
 extension was in fact legal, which might result in it
 getting reversed, thus shortening copyright from
 current terms. >>
You may be correct--the story I heard may just have referred to the pending 
court case.  You know how you sometimes listen with half an ear?  That may 
have been the case with me.  I thought the discussion was about new 
legislation as well as the court case, but I could be mistaken.  I'm not even 
100% sure if it was on "All Things Considered," but I think so.  Forgive me 
for posting information and not being more precise.

But the story brought to mind that, when I viewed an exhibit on copyright at 
the Library of Congress several years ago, the point was made about public 
access, so I found that part of the story interesting.  Most of us, I 
believe, assume that copyright laws exist solely to protect the creator.  (Of 
course, protecting the creator does in itself aid public access.  Supposedly, 
one would be more likely to put one's work out there where people could see 
it if one were assured of some protection.)

Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 21:35:22 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I just want to add my 2 cents two. It is very beautifull....... i would
not be afraid to use it in any period..........Yes green would be
gorgeous
Bjarne

LalahTT@aol.com wrote:

>       I am not up on Italian Ren, but if the color on my monitor is
> close to accurate, it is a gorgeous color and should be fabulous under
> dark green.
>
> Lalah
> Never Give up, Never Surrender,
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
> http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
>

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 21:29:14 -0000
Status: RO

Ulrika wrote:


> I can't vouch for them, because I just googled "coutil" to
> see what came up, but there's a UK shop that seems to have
> pretty good prices:
>
> http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/index.htm
>

I suggest that anyone dealing with Whaleys should be careful; by coincidence
I have just had to argue with them on an overcharge of almost £400 on an
order which should have cost less than £100. They have grudgingly refunded
the money which they had wrongly removed from my bank account in the first
place, but it doesn't exactly inspire one with confidence.
I won't waste bandwidth copying the exchange of e-mails to the list, but if
anyone wants the gory details I'll happily forward them off-list...

best wishes
Stevie



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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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References: <3C85FB93.11BB7A44@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabrick question
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:06:31 +1300
Status: RO

> I don't know what I can do with it.

Sit it somewhere where you will look at it often, but can still go about
whatever else you want to do, so that you might happen to glance at it and
then something else, and poof! Inspiration:)

> Is this fabrick o.k. for an Italian renaissance dress?
> Or is the pattern too modern?

Pattern is perhaps too free and 'naturalistic' for italian ren... but the
colour is wonderful. And I would be inclined to go with what *I* wanted to
do with the fabric, rather than worry over someone else getting a bee in
their bonnet;). Do you happen to have other eras that you want to try? I'm
not absolutely up to par on my 18thC patterns, but I'm sure it could be
close to something at some point of that century?
Of course a ballgown of the 50s/60s might be perfect:).

> The colour to orange?

How can anything be too orange?!?!?!;)

> I think it will look great with an over dress of dark green.
> Mmmm....

Yes:) Some gold embroidery and cream somewhere and pearls would also look
divine with this colour:)

michaela
http://recital.tripod.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 19:08:48 -0500
Status: RO



>>> a_kovatch@yahoo.com 03/06/02 01:17PM >>>
--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> A revision of the copyright law is under
> consideration in the U.S. Congress.  
> It is particularly interesting because it would
> involve extending rights yet 
> again.  

 (One of the
biggest visible supporters of the extensions is
Disney, because some early Mickey Mouse images would
be about to fall into the public domain.)
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Another supporter at that time was the estate of George Gershwin, 
who was about to begin losing the copyright on his music.


I am including something I just got today in my email.  I work at a University Library and copyright regulations remain a topic of great concern and confusion.  I'm sorry I'm not too much help in translating what this all means, I just know it's a quagmire and it's usually the little guy (us) who will pay the price.  This information is about international intellectual property rights on the web.  

Kathy Hoover
West Virginia University Library


SMALL WORLD, BROAD TREATY: WIPO COPYRIGHT TREATY SET TO
KICK IN
For librarians already concerned with the domestic
challenges offered by the broadly written Digital
Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA), those concerns are now
poised to go global. On March 6th, the World Intellectual
Property Organization (WIPO) treaty on Copyright Terms
(WCT) will go into effect, updating for the digital world
the international copyright policies adopted under the
Berne Convention. Officials at WIPO say the WCT provides a
response "to the challenges of new digital technologies."
The treaty is similar to the DMCA, including one aspect of
the new policy that will surely draw the attention of
librarians and copyright experts in the U.S.--an "anti-
circumvention" provision. Like section 1201 of the DMCA,
the WCT specifically prohibits "the deliberate alteration
or deletion of electronic rights management information."
The WIPO treaty, considered by many to be the driving force
behind the adoption of the DMCA in 1998, was adopted in
1996, and ratified in December of 2001, after 30 members of
WIPO, including the U.S., officially adopted the treaty.

"While we have reached the key number of 30 countries
required for entry into force, I urge all other countries
to follow suit and to incorporate the provisions of the
WCT," said WIPO director general Kamil Idris in a
statement. "This will create the conditions necessary for
the broad-based and legitimate distribution of creative
works and recordings on the Internet." Ironically, just as
the WCT is set to kick in, the DMCA is now under heavy fire
from critics in the United States. On April 1, a California
court will hear a motion from attorneys representing
ElComSoft, the Russian employer of programmer Dmitry
Sklyarov, arrested in the U.S. and accused of circumventing
encryption controls in Adobe e-books, arguing that the DMCA
is unconstitutional (see LJ Academic Newswire 2/19/02).
Last month, Virginia congressman Rick Boucher penned an
editorial on the online C-NET saying that the DMCA needs to
be rewritten. "In the three years since [the DMCA] was
enacted," wrote Boucher, "we have not seen [an increase in]
digital content. Instead, we have seen a rash of lawsuits;
the imprisonment by U.S. authorities of a Russian computer
programmer who had come to the United States to give a
technical talk; and, more recently, the release of compact
discs into the market that cannot be played in computers or
even some CD players."


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 21:32:49 2002
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 21:57:21 -0500
Status: RO

For those in the DC area:
I had some time today and wandered into G-Street Fabrics in Rockville.  Boy
was I disappointed.  They have eliminated their Janome department (still
have a few parts left at 50% off) and now only sell Berninas. They will stop
servicing Janome/New Home at the end of March, yes, this month.
Then I wandered over to the book section.  It is mostly gone.  They are only
stocking sewing books and quilting books.  All the Hunnisett, Janet Arnold,
the fashion books, the stuff I went there for is gone. They have a few books
left at deep discount, and I missed when most of the costume stuff sold as I
have not been there lately.  I did pick up "3000 Shoes from 1896 by Roseann
Etinger and two copies of "Lace for Dolls & Dolls' Houses: over 45
decorative patterns in bobbin & needlelace" by Ann Collier. They have
several more copies of this one, at $6.00 instead of the $29.95 it was
priced at originally.  The quilting stuff is now upstairs, and some of the
quilting notions are now in their upstairs notions department, mixed in with
the other notions.  All in all, I was very disappointed.  I talked with the
manager, and they were ready to sell me a bernina at cost, throw in a fabric
coupon, and all, but instead we are servicing my Janome before they go.  I
will have to travel to Fairfax or Frederick if the machine ever needs any
future servicing.
So, if you want to look at what is left of a great costume store, get there
quick.
-Megan

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 22:38:21 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 23:04:59 EST
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I, too, have noticed that G Street has cut back and consolidated.  They do 
have some good buys in silk taffeta, though--several colors for $18.77/yd.  
Too bad I'm not in the mark for any right now.  But much of the first floor, 
where quilting shared space with home dec, seems to have been turned over to 
custom decorative sewing.  Trims have been cut way back, too, and, of course, 
the books.

On the plus side, though, the store is a lot neater, since they don't have to 
stack stuff on the floors.  (I once visited a tony fabric store in another 
city, and told the salesperson that I lived in Washington and could therefore 
shop G Street.  She said her daughter had visited there and disappointed 
because it was so messy.)

Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I, too, have noticed that G Street has cut back and consolidated.&nbsp; They do have some good buys in silk taffeta, though--several colors for $18.77/yd.&nbsp; Too bad I'm not in the mark for any right now.&nbsp; But much of the first floor, where quilting shared space with home dec, seems to have been turned over to custom decorative sewing.&nbsp; Trims have been cut way back, too, and, of course, the books.<BR>
<BR>
On the plus side, though, the store is a lot neater, since they don't have to stack stuff on the floors.&nbsp; (I once visited a tony fabric store in another city, and told the salesperson that I lived in Washington and could therefore shop G Street.&nbsp; She said her daughter had visited there and disappointed because it was so messy.)<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 01:38:17 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 6 Mar 2002 AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> On the plus side, though, the store is a lot neater, since they don't have to 
> stack stuff on the floors.  (I once visited a tony fabric store in another 
> city, and told the salesperson that I lived in Washington and could therefore 
> shop G Street.  She said her daughter had visited there and disappointed 
> because it was so messy.)

Rockville G Street, messy? Never would I have applied that word to it.
Now, their old building on G Street, that was a real rabbit warren. I
remember pulling a bolt of something nice out from under some dusty stack
and finding a price of $.97 on it. The clerk shook his head in wonder and
said, "Where did you find that one? That's a prehistoric price." When they
moved to Rockville everything got upscaled. I never would have thought of
them as "messy" in any sense.

(But I like 'em messy.)

--Robin

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From: "Rebecca Anderson" <lady_adele@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 17:30:49 +1030
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV><A href="http://lw12fd.law12.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/compose?curmbox=F000000001&amp;a=05733a40d84ad22cb69fc00fd4c3d346&amp;mailto=1&amp;to=h-costume@mail.indra.com&amp;msg=MSG1015363857.62&amp;start=1906380&amp;len=25165&amp;src=&amp;type=x" target=_top><FONT color=#000099></FONT></A><BR><BR>&gt;I might have asked this question before...do any of you know of a<BR>&gt;cheaper source of corset coutil? I have been ordering from Greenberg<BR>&gt;and Hammer, but I am still looking for a better price.<BR></DIV>
<DIV>Does Coutil go by any other name? I can't find it in my area.</DIV>
<DIV>Hmmm..... maybe I;m just not looking hard enough.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca Anderson</DIV>
<DIV>aka</DIV>
<DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM101201/11'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 09:41:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Deredere,  

> I bought white cotton damast and painted it. I wanted to make it a
> warm yellow but it turned out orange. Yes! Orange! 

Can I ask why you painted it rather than dying it.... or am I 
misunderstanding?
 
On my monitor it looks like a warm yellow, only *everso slightly* 
orange, if you're looking for it to be... if it counts as orange at all.

> I don't know what I can do with it. Is this fabrick o.k. for an
> Italian renaissance dress? Or is the pattern too modern? 

the pattern looks more 18th century to me, but I could be *way* off 
on that. Someone who knows better will no doubt chip in.... I hope.

> The colour to orange? 

As I said it looks yellow to me.

> I think it will look great with an over dress of dark green.
> Mmmm.... 

Yellow and green, the best colour combination there is. 

Teddy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 11:58:37 +0100
Status: RO

HI Teddy!
 
>> I bought white cotton damast and painted it. I wanted to make it a
>> warm yellow but it turned out orange. Yes! Orange!
> 
> Can I ask why you painted it rather than dying it.... or am I
> misunderstanding?
Deredere is from Holland and not a native speaker and I think she did meant
she dyed it :)

Cass :)

(American in DE but is good friends with Deredere thru the SCA :)

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 08:24:23 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/7/2002 1:40:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:

<<  That's a prehistoric price." When they
 moved to Rockville everything got upscaled. I never would have thought of
 them as "messy" in any sense. >>
I had a friend who worked in the Centreville store for a while, and he 
agreed.  They were stuffing so much fabric in at one time that it was 
literally on the floor.  Oh, they made some attempt to stand bolts up to look 
good, but you had to be careful where you walked to avoid stepping on 
something.  I call that messy.  This was three or four years ago, and the 
visitors came in the early '90s.  Now many areas of the store, of course, 
such as bridal, the designer, and evening platforms, always were, and still 
are, very attractively arranged.  Anyway, the stock seems to be thinned out 
quite a bit.
I think all fabric stores are retrenching.  Jo-Ann's has just quit selling 
ribbon by the yard and is now only selling pre-packaged reels.  (And making 
it sound in their flyer like this is such a great deal--so convenient.)  And 
the big box Jo-Ann's, ETC, near us also seems to have cut way back on fabric 
selection.  
I suppose there are fewer and fewer home sewers.  It makes sense because kids 
certainly aren't learning to sew in school anymore.
A costume colleague said we had better be glad we have been hoarding fabric 
because, if the trend continues, we may not be able to find anything in ten 
years.
We may come to rely more heavily on mail order for specialty fabrics.  The 
question is, will these firms be able to stay in business?
Well, I, for one, am trying diligently to use what I already have stashed.  
(Although I did buy one piece of cotton print on my last trip to G Street.)
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar  7 08:49:25 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] web stuff I find I do know
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 23:23:05 -0800
Status: RO

For knitting/crochet directions from an antique original, use an optical 
character reader program to get it into the computer.  These programs think 
they can read text, and every place they can't make sense of it, they tell 
you so you can fix it.  So with the original in one hand and the keyboard 
at the other hand, you can sort of proofread the scanned text, so you don't 
have to type the whole thing in, making typos as you go.  I plan to post 
the instructions to a teens crochet 'opera bag' on my page, which my 
Sweetie scanned in this way, then I corrected, because I crochet and he 
doesn't.

If your image is all black and white, with no grey, save the image as a 
gif.  The way a gif works is to look at how many of what colour comes next, 
as if you were charting needlepoint one row at a time.  A gif of a pen and 
ink drawing will be smaller than a jpg of one.  All the original line-art 
for my page will be gif s.

OTOH, if you have a pencil sketch, with many greys in it, or a colour 
photograph, a jpg of it will be smaller than a gif of it.  (My Sweetie 
explained why, in geek, and I didn't get it.)  The accompanying image of 
the teens crochet opera bag is a jpg.

Before my site goes public, I will post it 'privately', and let some 
knowledgeable people (=Silicon Valley geek friends of mine) preview it for 
'bugs'.  The way to keep a site relatively private is to not link to it or 
from it.  Search engines send out 'spiders', which go from link to link 
finding out where things are.  If you don't have any links in or out, the 
'spiders' have much more difficulty finding it.  Anyway, once the page has 
been 'debugged', I will go public, and everybody will be invited to a 
'housewarming'.

I haven't been this excited since I was pregnant.

Kayta
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:22:54 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 7 Mar 2002 AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 3/7/2002 1:40:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:
> 
> <<  That's a prehistoric price." When they
>  moved to Rockville everything got upscaled. I never would have thought of
>  them as "messy" in any sense. >>
> I had a friend who worked in the Centreville store for a while, and he 
> agreed.  They were stuffing so much fabric in at one time that it was 
> literally on the floor.  Oh, they made some attempt to stand bolts up to look 
> good, but you had to be careful where you walked to avoid stepping on 
> something.  I call that messy.

Yes, I'd agree that the Centreville store was noticeably more haphazard
than Rockville.

> Anyway, the stock seems to be thinned out quite a bit.

This is very disturbing. G Street was always pretty dependable when you
needed some really specific/scarce trim or fabric. The loss of the books
is also upsetting. (Particularly since I somehow missed their 50% off all
books sale when I was last in the store, in September. They may have
beeen clearing them out then.)

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 14:04:51 +0100
Status: RO



Cassandra Greer wrote:

> HI Teddy!
>
> >> I bought white cotton damast and painted it. I wanted to make it a
> >> warm yellow but it turned out orange. Yes! Orange!
> >
> > Can I ask why you painted it rather than dying it.... or am I
> > misunderstanding?
> Deredere is from Holland and not a native speaker and I think she did meant
> she dyed it :)
>
> Cass :)
>
> (American in DE but is good friends with Deredere thru the SCA :)

Mmm....
I am working too hard on my wedding dress.....
Yes, I ment dying.

Greetings,
        Josiene

>
>
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 10:00:17 -0500
Status: RO



This discussion is getting way off-topic for the list, but I want to further
explain something.

Copyright, trademark, and patent law are all branches of "intellectual
property law."

In the United States, the purpose of these laws is both to protect the
creator of a work and to protect the public.

All these laws protect the creator of a work so that he/she can profit from
it *for a limited period of time.* They expire so that no one can keep hold
of that "intellectual property" forever. They also allow competition. An
early US case concerned a company that published business forms. It sued
another company that published business forms with a different design. The
court had to decide exactly what the law covered. Its decision was that the
first company had the copyright on that particular design of business forms,
and that any other company could publish business forms as long as they had
a different design.

This protects the first company, which had invested in the design of the
forms and the manufacture of the plates used to print them. It protects the
second company, which did NOT COPY the existing forms, but which invested
its own time and resources into creating and manufacturing new ones (a
critical point). And it protects the public, which benefits from a choice of
business forms. 

Intellectual property law is extremely complicated, as this discussion
proves. It is also constantly evolving. There is a fine line between copying
and copyright infringement, which is why you can legally buy cheap knockoffs
of expensive products.

Gail Finke




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:10:56 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/index.htm
> 
> I suggest that anyone dealing with Whaleys should be careful; by
> coincidence I have just had to argue with them on an overcharge of
> almost £400 on an order which should have cost less than £100.
> They have grudgingly refunded the money which they had wrongly
> removed from my bank account in the first place, but it doesn't
> exactly inspire one with confidence. I won't waste bandwidth
> copying the exchange of e-mails to the list, but if anyone wants
> the gory details I'll happily forward them off-list... 

Hi Stevie,

I'm sorry to hear that you've had such problems with Whaleys.  I've 
been dealing with them for *years* have never had any problems 
with them and have always found them very friendly and helpful.

Teddy


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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:17:41 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Cass,

> > > I bought white cotton damast and painted it. I wanted to make it a
> > > warm yellow but it turned out orange. Yes! Orange!
> > 
> > Can I ask why you painted it rather than dying it.... or am I
> > misunderstanding?
>
> Deredere is from Holland and not a native speaker and I think she
> did meant she dyed it :) 

Ahhh... that makes more sense - it didn't *look* painted in the 
picture and I thought I might be missing out on some new 
technique or something.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:26:13 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Mmm....
> I am working too hard on my wedding dress.....
> Yes, I ment dying.

Oooh!  Wedding-dress.... do tell, do tell. Is it a period style or 
modern?

Or are you keeping it secret until the big day?

Teddy
(Librarians are *allowed* to be nosey and to gossip - it's known as 
practising our information gathering and dissemination skills)

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:58:09 -0600
Status: RO

For those of you that may have bookmarked my site...I had to move it
yesterday.  Those nasty folks at f2s decided to shut down their free
services.  I moved to Tripod and have lots of obnoxoius ads...but at least
they don't shut you down for bandwidth violations like Geocities.

  http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm

I have recently added some photos for the start of the 2002 project.  Let me
know if you have problems getting to the site.

Karen Verschoor
Hosuton, TX

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar  7 10:29:54 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:12:00 -0000
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:

>I'm sorry to hear that you've had such problems with Whaleys.  I've
>been dealing with them for *years* have never had any problems
>with them and have always found them very friendly and helpful.

Yes, that was one of the reasons that I'm extremely p'd off with them; if it
weren't for the fact that £400 is a great deal of money to disappear it
wouldn't even have occurred to me to check what they charged. And though
they assured me the money would be refunded by this morning I have just
checked my bank account and it's still not back. I am not a happy bunny...

best wishes
Stevie
off to write another e-mail to them...

> > http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/index.htm
>
> I suggest that anyone dealing with Whaleys should be careful; by
> coincidence I have just had to argue with them on an overcharge of
> almost £400 on an order which should have cost less than £100.
> They have grudgingly refunded the money which they had wrongly
> removed from my bank account in the first place, but it doesn't
> exactly inspire one with confidence. I won't waste bandwidth
> copying the exchange of e-mails to the list, but if anyone wants
> the gory details I'll happily forward them
off-list_________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar  7 11:25:56 2002
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Date: 7 Mar 2002 09:08:04 -0800
Status: RO

...but at least
> they don't shut you down for bandwidth violations like Geocities.
> 
>   http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm
> 
Don't they? Then why can´t I get there? (looking forward to seeing your new photos)

Riina


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 11:18:01 -0600
Status: RO

I guess I way underestimated how many people go there.  I broke down and
upgraded which will get rid of the ads...but will take a little while to
take effect.  Try again in an hour or so!

Sorry!

Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX

.
> >
> >   http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm
> >
> Don't they? Then why can´t I get there? (looking forward to seeing your
new photos)
>



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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 12:53:59 -0500
Status: RO

It *might* be something somewhat temporary.  I'm wondering if they're going to start offering more special order stuff (like JoAnns does with their decorating fabric... swatches at the store that they'll order for you and get fairly quickly).

I do know that they'll be opening a new store in Potomac Mills Mall... I think the date I was given is June... in the old SCAN place, so it'll be pretty big.  Maybe they'll re-expand the books and stuff there, since space can't possibly be that much of an issue with a shop the size that store was.


Fingers crossed, and already anticipating a trip, even if it is further than Rockville for me....

-Elisabeth

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Subject: [h-cost] Dress Accessories will be out in July
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:06:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

This came today!

kate

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Dress Accessories
Medieval Finds from Excavations in London

Dear Colleagues,

Boydell & Brewer is pleased to announce the summer reissue of _Dress
Accessories_.  This is the third volume in the series Medieval Finds
from Excavations in London and is an invaluable sourcebook,
documenting the discoveries of items of medieval dress accessories in
London.  Discussing over two thousand brooches, rings, buckles,
pendants etc. this is a book that will appeal to the general reader
as well as the dress historian and archaeologist.  Appearing in
hardback for $60/35GBP, this book is heavily illustrated in color and
black and white.  

Dress Accessories will be available in July.  We encourage you to
place your orders now and be put on back order.  When the book
becomes available, it will be shipped to you immediately.  

Boydell & Brewer is also pleased to announce the forthcoming
publication of _Heraldry, Pageantry and Social Display in Medieval
England_, edited by Peter Coss and Maurice Keen.  

Social display, studied seriously for the first time, is discussed
through a range of artifacts including monumental effigies, brasses,
jewels, seals, coins etc.  Well illustrated in color and black and
white, this volume addresses a series of interrelated themes around
the issue of display. 

Also available in July for $70.00/45GBP.  

The discount schedule for both books is as follows: 
1-4 copies 20%
5 or more 40%
20 or more 45%
50 or more 50%

If you would like additional information about these title or any of
the titles in the Medieval Finds from Excavations in London series,
please visit our website at: http://www.boydell.co.uk/LIVING1.HTM, or
email me at krispayne@compuserve.com.

I look forward to receiving your orders!

Kristin Payne
Sales/Marketing Manager
Boydell & Brewer
668 Mt. Hope Ave., Rochester NY 14620
P: (585) 275-0419 * F: (585) 271-8778
www.boydell.co.uk
email: krispayne@compuserve.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar  7 14:31:42 2002
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 21:11:50 +0100
Status: RO

Hello
I do look forwards for having a look on your site. Good Luck! It is quite funny
to make webpages. But my puter dont have more space, so i have to wait till
after our hollidays this summer. We are going to have a new puter then!

Bjarne

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> For knitting/crochet directions from an antique original, use an optical
> character reader program to get it into the computer.  These programs think
> they can read text, and every place they can't make sense of it, they tell
> you so you can fix it.  So with the original in one hand and the keyboard
> at the other hand, you can sort of proofread the scanned text, so you don't
> have to type the whole thing in, making typos as you go.  I plan to post
> the instructions to a teens crochet 'opera bag' on my page, which my
> Sweetie scanned in this way, then I corrected, because I crochet and he
> doesn't.
>
> If your image is all black and white, with no grey, save the image as a
> gif.  The way a gif works is to look at how many of what colour comes next,
> as if you were charting needlepoint one row at a time.  A gif of a pen and
> ink drawing will be smaller than a jpg of one.  All the original line-art
> for my page will be gif s.
>
> OTOH, if you have a pencil sketch, with many greys in it, or a colour
> photograph, a jpg of it will be smaller than a gif of it.  (My Sweetie
> explained why, in geek, and I didn't get it.)  The accompanying image of
> the teens crochet opera bag is a jpg.
>
> Before my site goes public, I will post it 'privately', and let some
> knowledgeable people (=Silicon Valley geek friends of mine) preview it for
> 'bugs'.  The way to keep a site relatively private is to not link to it or
> from it.  Search engines send out 'spiders', which go from link to link
> finding out where things are.  If you don't have any links in or out, the
> 'spiders' have much more difficulty finding it.  Anyway, once the page has
> been 'debugged', I will go public, and everybody will be invited to a
> 'housewarming'.
>
> I haven't been this excited since I was pregnant.
>
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:56:32 -0800
Status: RO

Some of you may have noticed that the fair use website I gave you 
didn't work. 

This one is the newest one (as they have evidently changed 
directories. Sigh.):
http://www.libraries.psu.edu/mtss/fairuse/default.html


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 22:00:57 -0600
Status: RO

5This is just from my experience, but...
It depends on what you are re-creating.  Granted, my experience is with 
fantasy-Science fiction costumes, but there may be some similarities.  I 
have a friend who does furry creatures, and he says, whatever you 
do,  don't re-create anything from Disney - even if it's just for your own 
enjoyment, if they find out, they WILL come after you.  Paramount used to 
be the same about Star Trek, but now as long as you're not selling the 
costumes or appearing in them to make money, they're at least not pursuing 
you.  We've re-created paintings by a couple of different artists as 
costumes, and they uniformly have been very flattered.  When this same 
friend did a re-creation of the Hamm's beer bear several years ago, he 
contacted the company, who sent him all kinds of promotional info as 
background and even a copy of the sheet music for the theme song.

So, as far as making costumes, I think it depends on what you are going to 
do with it and what it's source is.  This is just my opinion, and IANAL.

Sandy

>michaela
>http://recital.tripod.com
>so how does this affect people who recreate a costume? With self drafted
>patterns that obviously deiate from the original with fabrics that are only
>in passing the same.

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 20:40:52 +0000
Status: RO

Hi everyone,

Firstly, it's a very long time since I contributed to this list - must
be at least three years ago, probably longer - so I'm a little out of
touch on what the current thinking is on French hoods.  However the
recent spate of mail on the subject has aroused by interest.

>Those of you who have made this work, how did you get the turned back edge to 
>"stand up", if you will, to give the appropriate coronet, as with the later 
>style of hood (1540's)?  Is there still a seperate structure that the hood part 
>attaches to via the billiments or am I just going about this all wrong?

Some years ago (about five or so) I did my one serious attempt at a
historical costume.  I'd dabbled around a bit, done quite a lot of basic
research, but eventually the subject of the French Hood piqued my
curiosity to such an extent that I thought I'd have a go at making one -
and what was more, I would use as many primary sources as was possible,
avoiding secondary when I could.

So began a search for as many books with pictures by Holbein and his
contemporaries.  I admit, I got lucky with a couple of books (acquired
from a second hand book shop) which were devoted to Holbein's works.
And from that research came (after nearly a year) not just a French
Hood, but a complete Tudor court gown, dated around 1540.  The work I
did on the hood I wrote up in an article which was printed in The
Mantle, now the publication of Costume Guild UK.

The article was entitled "It's just an illusion?" and for a good reason.
For there was one painting by Holbein that was key, and that was a
profile portrait of the Princess Mary, daughter of Henry VIII and
Catherine of Aragon.  The reason that it was so important was that it
showed a French Hood that appeared to lie flat upon the head.  A close
look at many other portraits depicting this style of headdress convinced
me of one thing, that the angle of the "coronet" was not achieved by the
headdress itself, but was achieved by the arrangement of the hair
underneath it!  What was more, if you angle your head just so, a French
hood can appear as though it is raised, when in fact it is not! - hence
the title of the article. 

My 1540 French hood is actually composed of six parts: the underlying
cap; a strip of cloth that holds the cap in place; the black hood
section; the paste (or coloured band of cloth between the two biliments)
and the upper and lower biliments.  I do now have a website, and if you
want to take a look at the costume (and the headdress of course) then go
to www.ireadh.demon.co.uk/costumes.  The costume is shown from two
angles, front and side on.

Hope this helps.
-- 
Maggie Percival
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 12:36:30 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:49 AM 3/5/02 -0800, Heather Meadows wrote:

>The one thing I keep being struck by is how many people keep
>saying "oh i'd love to do that period, but I have no place
>to wear it."
>
>If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
>why don't you start a group


I'd like to urge everyone to heed Heather's excellent advice. Because I'm
the GBACG webmaster I receive many requests for info about events.

GBACG didn't start out as the large, active organization it is today. It
started very small (11 years ago) with a few events and built on that. The new
guild in Sacramento is small but, they are finding that if they continue to 
organize
a few events each year, they will attract more members.

There is a small group of women north of the San Francisco Bay Area
(Lake County) who are interested in 19th century events. Three of us
from GBACG met with them at a 'Victorianish' restaurant in Petaluma (about an
hour north of San Francisco) and we had lunch. We all wore late 19th c. attire.
There were 7 of us and we did look smashing. It was delightful.

An event can be as simple as a picnic and a game of croquet in a local
park.

If there is a restaurant in your area that evokes a particular time or
place, collect a small group, dress up, and go out for lunch or dinner.

Another possibility are fund-raising events and exhibit openings put on by 
museums.
They are often delighted to give free admission to a few, gorgeously 
dressed people
who add colour and atmosphere to their event.

If there is an antique fair or sewing expo coming to your area, contact the 
organizers
and offer to do a small fashion show.

Or dress up in the period of a film and go to the opening. If you contact 
the theatre
ahead of time, they might set aside a section of seats for you --- and you 
can make
an entrance!

Events don't need to be complicated or expensive .... just a group of 
people who
want to enjoy themselves.

Sally Norton
www.gbacg.org

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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 13:34:45 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_12665531==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


I forgot to mention the most obvious places (I think my brain cells are
shrinking): Costume Con and Costume College. These are the perfect
places to be admired and share your enthusiasm for costuming. I've
been to both events several times and they are each wonderful and fun
and I'm going again.

-- Sally Norton


Costume College
July 27 - 29
Airtel Plaza Hotel, Van Nuys, CA
Memberships still available

http://www.costumersguildwest.org/links.html

Costume-Con 21
April 18-21, 2003, (Easter Weekend)
Chicago, Illinois.

http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/
--=====================_12665531==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<br>
I forgot to mention the most obvious places (I think my brain cells
are<br>
shrinking): Costume Con and Costume College. These are the perfect<br>
places to be admired and share your enthusiasm for costuming. I've<br>
been to both events several times and they are each wonderful and
fun<br>
and I'm going again.<br>
<br>
-- Sally Norton<br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Costume College<br>
</b>July 27 - 29<br>
Airtel Plaza Hotel, Van Nuys, CA<br>
Memberships still available<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.costumersguildwest.org/links.html" eudora="autourl">http://www.costumersguildwest.org/links.html</a><br>
<br>
<b>Costume-Con 21<br>
</b>April 18-21, 2003, (Easter Weekend)<br>
Chicago, Illinois.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/" eudora="autourl">http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/</a></html>

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 01:41:07 -0500
Status: RO

Hi People,
I'm in need of some suggestions-
I want to have some nice18th century style
mules/shoes made for myself. I have no experience
ordering custome made shoes.
I have found several web sites with what appear to be
beautiful period footwear.
Does anybody have any recommendations or suggestions on
historic footwear makers ?
Also, has anyone ever ordered shoes from
Plantagenet Shoes? They're in the UK & I live in the US,
but I'm willing to pay extra for shipping if the shoes' quality is
better.
Any input?
Lisa R.

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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone know where I can find this pic?
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Greetings, :-)

I've found a picture I'm very interested in studying in color and/or in
finer detail.  It's in the wonderful book _A Visual History of Costume
The Fourteenth & Fifteenth Centuries_ by Margaret Scott.  It's Picture
94, identified as: 

Flemish street scene, with presentation of a book to Philip the Good of
Burgundy in the background.  Jean le Tavernier.  _Conquestes de
Charlemagne_, MS 9066, f. 11.  Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels.

Anyone know where this might be found online or on a CD?  I'm
particularly interested in the portable market stall and the pattens
that are being worn.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Gregory G. Stapleton

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
6.0.4630.0">
<TITLE>Anyone know where I can find this pic?</TITLE>
</HEAD>
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<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Greetings,</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"> <FONT FACE=3D"Wingdings" SIZE=3D2>J</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">I</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">ve found a picture I</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">m very interested in =
studying in color and/or in finer detail.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us">&nbsp;<FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial"> It</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">s in the wonderful book _</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><I></I></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><I><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">A Visual History of Costume The Fourteenth &amp; =
Fifteenth Centuries</FONT></I></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">_</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial"> by Margaret Scott</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">.&nbsp; It</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">s Picture 94, identified as: </FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Flemish street scene, with presentation of a book to =
Philip the Good of Burgundy in the background.&nbsp; Jean le =
Tavernier.&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"> <FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">_</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><I></I></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><I><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Conquestes de Charlemagne</FONT></I></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">_</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">, MS 9066, f. 11.&nbsp; =
Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels.</FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Anyone know where this might be found online or on a =
CD?</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT =
SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&nbsp; I</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">m particularly interested =
in the portable market stall and the pattens that are being =
worn.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Any =
help greatly appreciated.</FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Thanks,</FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Gregory G. Stapleton</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN></P>

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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 01:03:12 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks Kat!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 4:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Copyright web site correction


> Some of you may have noticed that the fair use website I gave you
> didn't work.
>
> This one is the newest one (as they have evidently changed
> directories. Sigh.):
> http://www.libraries.psu.edu/mtss/fairuse/default.html
>
>
> Kat
>
> Kat(June Russell)
> kat@grendal.rain.com
> Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Dianne,

This DuPont plant has been offering the textile merit badge for years.  So I
guess they have had time to iron out the kinks in their program.  The group
we are in has 267 people including adults.  This is the largest group DuPont
has ever had.  They did point out that this would be the last large group.
Next time, the cut-off will be 150 people.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>This DuPont plant has been offering the textile&nbsp;merit badge =
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years.&nbsp; So I guess they have had time to iron out the kinks in =
their=20
program.&nbsp; The group we are in has 267 people including =
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is the largest group&nbsp;DuPont has ever had.&nbsp; They did point out =
that=20
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<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Ebay Regency-style paisley shawl
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:09:46 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I was considering bidding on this item, but really can't justify the
expense at the moment.  It's still a good deal -- $69.00 (at present).  It
looks like it'd be appropriate for a Regency impression:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=704255342

Regards,
Mara


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: G-Street
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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 18:12:42 +0000
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>What I was told by someone that works there (when I complained about the lack of costume books) was that G Street had changed ownership (management?) and that the new people are not as interested in costuming as the previous owners had been.</P>
<P>My impression is that it's permanent (though I did fill out a comment card requesting the costume books back, just in case that does any good).</P>
<P>Karen<BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: Liz / Cozit <COZIT@COMCAST.NET>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: h-costume@indra.com 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: [h-cost] Re: G-Street 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 12:53:59 -0500 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;It *might* be something somewhat temporary. I'm wondering if they're going to start offering more special order stuff (like JoAnns does with their decorating fabric... swatches at the store that they'll order for you and get fairly quickly). 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I do know that they'll be opening a new store in Potomac Mills Mall... I think the date I was given is June... in the old SCAN place, so it'll be pretty big. Maybe they'll re-expand the books and stuff there, since space can't possibly be that much of an issue with a shop the size that store was. 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Fingers crossed, and already anticipating a trip, even if it is further than Rockville for me.... 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;-Elisabeth 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;_______________________________________________ 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;h-costume mailing list 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;h-costume@mail.indra.com 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM105401/16'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Subject: [h-cost] Could someone resend the tapsetry link?
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 13:34:49 -0500
Status: RO

I have a friend who is really intersted in getting some mediveal 
tapestries, and I accidentally deleted the email which had that great 
link for tapestries.  (I think they were listed in both US and 
Canadian prices, and the link was posted within the last few weeks).  
If someone could re-post it, I would be grateful. =)



Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  9 12:53:11 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] 18th C Spanish/Italian
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 12:05:08 -0700
Status: RO


Can anyone point me to some good references for Spanish and Italian
clothing (male & female) of the mid-18th C?

Thanks,
					...eliz

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  9 12:53:46 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Accessories will be out in July
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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 23:19:42 -0500
Status: RO

In the Textile Society newsletter there is a short brief about this book,

except the title is different:
"Shoes & Patterns: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London,"
by Francis Grew, Margrethe DeNeergarad & Susan Mitford.
152 pages, 27 b/w ill. $45+ ship

Is this a different book from "Dress Accessories"?
Deb R

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 23:31:43 -0500
Status: RO

Never mind...went to the B&B website and I see now
that "Dress Accessories" is different from "Shoes and Pattens"
-that's *patTENs*..
The Textile Society newsletter has it misspelled as 'patterns.'
Deb R

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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 07:57:26 -0500
Status: RO

If you can stand another copyright question -- I'm working with someone to
publish a small booklet on 18th c. costume, and would like to have a couple
of paintings redrawn for the book.  We're not using the original paintings,
so I figured we'd be ok.  The paintings in question all date from the 18th
century.

-- Does anyone know of any reasons we _can't_ use redrawn versions of these
paintings?  My impression was that the redrawings are the artistic
creations of the artist who does the redrawings, and no permission is
required, since the original paintings were created 200+ years ago.

-- If we used images the original paintings, would we need to ask
permission of the museums that own them, or not?  Have they passed into the
public domain?  My impression is that we _would_ need to ask permission of
the museums, and/or pay a fee.

-- Mara



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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 09:01:26 -0800
Status: RO



Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:

> If you can stand another copyright question -- I'm working with someone to
> publish a small booklet on 18th c. costume, and would like to have a couple
> of paintings redrawn for the book.  We're not using the original paintings,
> so I figured we'd be ok.  The paintings in question all date from the 18th
> century.
>
> -- Does anyone know of any reasons we _can't_ use redrawn versions of these
> paintings?  My impression was that the redrawings are the artistic
> creations of the artist who does the redrawings, and no permission is
> required, since the original paintings were created 200+ years ago.

Yes, the redrawings are the artistic creations of the artist who does the
redrawings.

>
>
> -- If we used images the original paintings, would we need to ask
> permission of the museums that own them, or not?  Have they passed into the
> public domain?  My impression is that we _would_ need to ask permission of
> the museums, and/or pay a fee.
>

If you are reproducing the museum's photographs of their paintings,  these are
covered by modern copyright.  So yes, the museum's permission (or the
permission of whoever holds the copyright)  is necessary.

If you are redrawing from those photos, permission is not necessary.

Fran


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:15:19 -0000
Status: RO

On 5 Mar 2002 at 1:41, martyr@gti.net wrote:
> Also, has anyone ever ordered shoes from
> Plantagenet Shoes? They're in the UK & I live in the US,
> but I'm willing to pay extra for shipping if the shoes' quality is
> better.

I've seen them at shows: they apear to be good quality shoes, but I'm not qualified to 
comment on how authentic they are.



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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 21:23:03 +0100
Status: RO

Hi
For Italian mid 18th. century clothes, there are some catalogs from
"Galleria Del Costume", Florence Italy. I have 3 catalogs but i know
there are more. They start at the beginning of 18th century and goes on
to present time. There are fine photo,s of real garments in them.

Bjarne

Elizabeth Lear wrote:

> Can anyone point me to some good references for Spanish and Italian
> clothing (male & female) of the mid-18th C?
>
> Thanks,
>                                         ...eliz
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:14:33 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I just got a birthday box from my parents.

It contained both "Shoes and Pattens" and "Stepping Through Time."

yay!

Emma

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 18:14:13 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:52 PM 3/5/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>It sounds like she needs something that will keep the corset sitting where
>it is supposed to. I do not have this problem, as I am quite hourglass
>shaped and the corset stays just fine :-)
>
>Any hints, tips, instructions, details that we can use to draft up a corset
>that will work for her? Thanks!

Aside from shortening it just a bit (I've found that when I fit a corset, I
need to pay close attention to the fit over the hips, and often wind up
shortening the cardboard mockups in this area), maybe she could fasten her
petticoats to the corset tabs (i.e., put eyelets in the tabs and lace the
petticoat waistband to the corset) for some additional weight to help hold
it down.  But I'd try fitting it better over the hips first.

Regards,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright -- use of images
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 18:34:06 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:01 AM 3/9/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>If you are reproducing the museum's photographs of their paintings,  these
are
>covered by modern copyright.  So yes, the museum's permission (or the
>permission of whoever holds the copyright)  is necessary.
>
>If you are redrawing from those photos, permission is not necessary.
>
>Fran

Thanks, Fran!  That's more or less what I figured.  Good to have it confirmed.

Regards,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Histoic Footwear Makers
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 18:35:07 -0500
Status: RO

At 01:41 AM 3/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi People,
>I'm in need of some suggestions-
>I want to have some nice18th century style
>mules/shoes made for myself. I have no experience
>ordering custome made shoes.
>I have found several web sites with what appear to be
>beautiful period footwear.
>Does anybody have any recommendations or suggestions on
>historic footwear makers ?
>Also, has anyone ever ordered shoes from
>Plantagenet Shoes? They're in the UK & I live in the US,
>but I'm willing to pay extra for shipping if the shoes' quality is
>better.
>Any input?
>Lisa R.

Could you post some of the URLs to these cordwainers?  I've seen Sarah
Juniper's new site, but would love to see others, as well.

Regards,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Accessories will be out in July
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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 16:49:56 +0000
Status: RO

Yes. Completely different book.

				Arlys

On Fri, 08 Mar 2002 23:19:42 -0500 martyr@gti.net writes:
> In the Textile Society newsletter there is a short brief about this 
> book,
> 
> except the title is different:
> "Shoes & Patterns: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London,"
> by Francis Grew, Margrethe DeNeergarad & Susan Mitford.
> 152 pages, 27 b/w ill. $45+ ship
> 
> Is this a different book from "Dress Accessories"?
> Deb R
> 
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> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 20:51:04 -0700
Status: RO

And all the other good stuff that goes with it, too. <g>
Hi, everybody.  I pretty much know "diddly" about 18th century
costuming, but I'm learning....taking classes through Penny's website.
One class I'm going to be taking later this spring is from JP Ryan,
who's teaching us how to make caraco jackets.  It sounds as if there's a
wide range of fabric choices, depending on how "formal" your outfit it,
but I'm afraid of picking the exactly *wrong* thing to make the jacket,
petticoats, etc. out of.  Has anyone out there got any ideas about what
I really need to stay clear of, and what might really work? I haven't
seen any reference to napped fabrics, so I assume they're out? but what
silk types/weaves/weights? ditto, cottons and wools? What about colors?
are there any "close enough" furnishing fabrics? Are some stripes okay,
and others not? all that sort of stuff.....
Any assistance would be *much* appreciated....my historical costuming
experience is pretty solidly pre-17th century, so I'm afraid my fabric
tastes/choices might be inappropriately influenced for a later time
period.
Thanks in advance,
Sue
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Subject: [h-cost] star shapes --
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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 21:05:56 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO



I know there was some discussion of this last
September, but I just found this illustraded "how to 
cut a five pointed star shape" and I thought others might
appreciate it too!

http://www.dltk-kids.com/usa/fold_and_cut_star_shape.htm

.heather.


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 >
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 21:03:51 -0800
Status: RO

Victorian, yes.  Regency, not quite.  Regency ones tend to have paisley 
borders on plain middles, where later ones tend to be allover/solid 
paisleys.  OTOH, gaga!

>I was considering bidding on this item, but really can't justify the
>expense at the moment.  It's still a good deal -- $69.00 (at present).  It
>looks like it'd be appropriate for a Regency impression:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=704255342


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:07:58 +0100
Status: RO

:-D

It is ofcourse in period style.
It's in16th century style...
I have some pictures of work in progress on the internet.
But if you want to see the real pictures you have to wait untill after
3,4 and 5 Mai.
We are still working hard on our kostumes.
I hope I will finish my dress by the end of the week.
But I also have to make the flowergirl dress and the ringbearers
costume.
There going to be the small versions of us ;-)
The costume of my oon to be husband is getting very beatifull.
He does all the embroidery and I help him with the sewing.

Here is the link for the pictures
http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/16th_century_wedding

Greetings,
        Deredere

Teddy wrote:

> > Mmm....
> > I am working too hard on my wedding dress.....
> > Yes, I ment dying.
>
> Oooh!  Wedding-dress.... do tell, do tell. Is it a period style or
> modern?
>
> Or are you keeping it secret until the big day?
>
> Teddy
> (Librarians are *allowed* to be nosey and to gossip - it's known as
> practising our information gathering and dissemination skills)
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 05:57:41 -0500
Status: RO

>
>It is ofcourse in period style.
>It's in16th century style...
>I have some pictures of work in progress on the internet.


Lovely, lovely, lovely!
Brava!

Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net

Editor, Boston Early Music News
Deadline March. 28 for April 15  issue
   for events April 15-May 31, 2002
 http://www.earlymusicboston.com
    /bemn   for CALENDAR
    /Pavane  for Pavane Renaissance Dance Ensemble
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29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #780 - 2 msgs
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:27:21 -0600
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
| Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:
|
| > If you can stand another copyright question -- I'm working with
someone to
| > publish a small booklet on 18th c. costume, and would like to have
a couple
| > of paintings redrawn for the book.  We're not using the original
paintings,
| > so I figured we'd be ok.  The paintings in question all date from
the 18th
| > century.
| >
| > -- Does anyone know of any reasons we _can't_ use redrawn versions
of these
| > paintings?  My impression was that the redrawings are the artistic
| > creations of the artist who does the redrawings, and no permission
is
| > required, since the original paintings were created 200+ years
ago.
|
| Yes, the redrawings are the artistic creations of the artist who
does the
| redrawings.
|
| > -- If we used images the original paintings, would we need to ask
| > permission of the museums that own them, or not?  Have they passed
into the
| > public domain?  My impression is that we _would_ need to ask
permission of
| > the museums, and/or pay a fee.
| >
|
| If you are reproducing the museum's photographs of their paintings,
these are
| covered by modern copyright.  So yes, the museum's permission (or
the
| permission of whoever holds the copyright)  is necessary.
|
| If you are redrawing from those photos, permission is not necessary.
|
| Fran

This can get pretty hairy though. So, fair warning - the only persons
who can make a legal judgement on copyright issues that hit a grey
area like that last (redrawing from museum photos) are judges.

As an example I encountered, I wanted to use a choice among two or
three Kandinsky works on a webpage I was creating for an event in
which the internationally-known Kandinsky Trio was performing - for
educational purposes at a secondary educational institution.  There's
a clause in the Copyright Law allowing among other things a single
image from a work to be copied for purely educational purposes, but
only a judge can determine whether or not the usage fulfills the
"educational" requirement, and this was a performance, albeit paid for
via student fees. In order to assure that I wasn't breaking copyright
on behalf of the University, I contacted the current owners of the
images to see if they would allow it - and they would, if we paid them
a hefty fee (this was an agency in NYC), per image use. I had a
six-figure budget to work with, and the fee would have completely
sapped it, for one event in a calendar full of more. The artwork
itself was old enough to be outside the current copyright laws, but
the agency owned the rights to all the images of the works that I knew
of, at that point - once Copyright Law came into effect, these rights
had been filed/purchased/reserved by his estate, and then again as all
of that was sold to various entities with each piece sold from the
estate. I judged it not worth further effort (it was just a web page
for a finite event), and ended up using a common graphics program to
make an image after the style of Kandinsky's Improvisation No. 32.

If there was this much hoopla needed with an educational institute's
usage of an image of an artwork (and the Trio was closely associated
with the agency who owned the rights to the images I was trying to
choose among, to boot, with a good relationship with them), I strongly
recommend that if you work from an image you have not yourself made
for a book which you hope to *sell,* you at least consult with a
lawyer or judge experienced in copyright law.

Margaret Northwode
"Douce et innocent à l'extérieur, mauvaise et croquante à
l'intérieur."

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 12:16:32 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 10 Mar 2002, Heather McCafferty 2 wrote:

> This can get pretty hairy though. So, fair warning - the only persons
> who can make a legal judgement on copyright issues that hit a grey
> area like that last (redrawing from museum photos) are judges.

And to add to that: Not all judges share the same opinions, and there's a
lot of grey area in copyright law, particularly when you start dealing
with electronic media. The one time I was involved in a copyright case, it
was part of a larger dispute that was being handled in bankruptcy court.
The judge was a bankruptcy judge, and he didn't know anything about
copyright, and didn't much care. My lawyer, fortunately, had a background
in journalism, and we both had access to my union's lawyers. The lawyers
had an uphill battle convincing the judge there certainly *was* precedent
for our claim, and explaining how copyright worked. Even so, the judge
insisted on making distinctions between who owned the *work* (our writing)
and who owned the disks on which it was stored (the company that never
paid us for the writing, but asserted ownership and sold it anyway)!

Fortunately we won, but I have known of other cases in which the judge in
charge made decisions on what made sense to him, which may not match what
you would normally expect from people who are well-versed in copyright
law. Yes, you can appeal, but that takes money. When it looked like we
would lose our case, our lawyer pointed out that we could appeal based on
the fact that the judge would have clearly misinterpreted copyright law.
But since the company we were suing was already bankrupt, the chances of
us ever recovering funds were pretty slim to begin with. (In our case, the
judge determined that we still owned copyright on the work, yet permitted
the company to sell it at a massive profit as part of its assets. When we
threatened further legal action, we ultimately gained a settlement of
about 10 cents on the dollar of the money we were owed.)

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Connection
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:14:55 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,
I've been trying to contact Silk Connection to buy some of the silk gauze
and the email keeps bouncing. Does anyone have a clue as to what is
happening with them?
best wishes
Stevie

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about fabric for 18th c. caraco jacket
  and petticoats
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 19:09:44 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, Sue,
What sort of impression are you going for?  My default advice would be to
use linen.  There are probably some furnishing fabrics that could work;
Williamsburg's "Tuckahoe", "Wetherburn", and "Indienne" might work for you:

http://www.williamsburgmarketplace.com/product_line.asp?MGID=25&fromcat=true

The problem with some of the Waverley prints, I'm told, is that the scale
is a little large for 18th c. clothing; but then some 18th c. clothing does
show up with large scale prints (not common, but occasionally done).  I
think the practice of weaving a damask pattern onto striped fabrics is
modern.  Cabbage roses are NOT 18th century - you see a lot of 1970s
colonial revival costumes made with the stuff.  Toile prints seem to have
been reserved for upholstery, not used for clothing.

I found some yummy textiles here:
http://www.housefabrics.com/fabric1.htm
But you'd want to look through a couple of books on 18th c. textiles before
ordering... Some of the plain stripes look ok to me.
I've got a copy of Florence Montgomery's _Textiles in America_ on loan from
a friend, but that's out of print and VERY expensive.  I heard a rumor that
it might get reprinted... but in the meantime, see if your library can find
it for you.  Another good book is Barbara Johnson's album (I forget the
exact title) -- a scrapbook that an 18th c. lady kept of all the fabrics
she bought from her teens through her old age.  

Best of all, this site has matelasse, which is fabric woven to imitate
quilting, invented ca. 1763.  So for those of you who've been lusting after
a quilted petticoat, but don't have the time to make one -- this is a
definite option!

Cheers,
Mara

At 08:51 PM 3/9/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>And all the other good stuff that goes with it, too. <g>
>Hi, everybody.  I pretty much know "diddly" about 18th century
>costuming, but I'm learning....taking classes through Penny's website.
>One class I'm going to be taking later this spring is from JP Ryan,
>who's teaching us how to make caraco jackets.  It sounds as if there's a
>wide range of fabric choices, depending on how "formal" your outfit it,
>but I'm afraid of picking the exactly *wrong* thing to make the jacket,
>petticoats, etc. out of.  Has anyone out there got any ideas about what
>I really need to stay clear of, and what might really work? I haven't
>seen any reference to napped fabrics, so I assume they're out? but what
>silk types/weaves/weights? ditto, cottons and wools? What about colors?
>are there any "close enough" furnishing fabrics? Are some stripes okay,
>and others not? all that sort of stuff.....
>Any assistance would be *much* appreciated....my historical costuming
>experience is pretty solidly pre-17th century, so I'm afraid my fabric
>tastes/choices might be inappropriately influenced for a later time
>period.
>Thanks in advance,
>Sue

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 19:16:55 -0500
Status: RO

At 08:51 PM 3/9/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> I haven't
>seen any reference to napped fabrics, so I assume they're out? but what
>silk types/weaves/weights? ditto, cottons and wools? What about colors?
>are there any "close enough" furnishing fabrics? Are some stripes okay,
>and others not? all that sort of stuff.....

Forgot to answer some of these issues...
Janice Ryan said, at a talk I attended a while back, that cotton velvet is
an acceptable compromise for 18th c. costume, but I don't think I'd use it
for a caracao -- more for a riding habit, I think.
Plain wool would be fine for a working woman's caracao.
Modern cotton broadcloth is probably too thin.
Any colors you could get in the 17th century were also obtainable in the
18th <g>.
Graduated stripes are not ok; and stripes that don't mirror-repeat (i.e.,
stripes that go "blue green yellow blue green yellow") generally aren't
appropriate.
I think that damask might be a bit too fancy for a caracao jacket, but am
not really certain...

If you want to do something really different, Silk Road Fabrics has some
ikat cottons that would be appropriate.  These were called "clouded"
fabrics in the 18th century, and both silk and cotton clouded fabrics have
shown up in period references.  I'd love to see an 18th c. gown made from
this stuff, just to show something that people just don't think of as 18th
century!

http://www.srfabrics.com/cottons/ikat3.html
Swatch 120, in particular, looks good to me...

-- Mara 

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 01:34:12 -0500
Status: RO

This is Plantagenet Shoes URL:
http://www.plantagenetshoes.freeserve.co.uk/

>Could you post some of the URLs to these cordwainers?  I've seen Sarah
>Juniper's new site, but would love to see others, as well.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Histoic Footwear Makers
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:20:02 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> On 5 Mar 2002 at 1:41, martyr@gti.net wrote:
> > Also, has anyone ever ordered shoes from
> > Plantagenet Shoes? They're in the UK & I live in the US,
> > but I'm willing to pay extra for shipping if the shoes' quality is
> > better.

They made my bucket top (17th cnetury boots) and I'm extremely 
happy with them.  Not only are they good quality,  comfortable and 
fit perfectly, but they look great and only cost a little more than the 
low-heeled "off the peg" ones that lots of 17th century traders sell.... 
on the other hand, Morgan measured my feet himself, i have no 
experience of mail ordering stuff from them.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:34:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi  Deredere,  

> It is ofcourse in period style.
> It's in16th century style...
> I have some pictures of work in progress on the internet.
> 
> Here is the link for the pictures
> http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/16th_century_wedding

Oh wow!  That is going to be *so* beautiful.  And i love the choice 
of hairstyle and veil too.  It looks lovely.

I'll look forward to seeing pictures of the whole wedding party.

Thanks for sharing

Teddy
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 05:56:46 -0500
Status: RO

Well, I didn't find a whole lot of other cordwainers on the web.
What I would like are some customized poulaines.
If you were extremely happy with his work, I'm satisfied
he knows what he's doing. I could trace my own foot & send
it to him.
Thanks Teddy!
Lisa

> They made my bucket top (17th century boots) and I'm extremely
> happy with them.

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:42:57 -0000
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:

> Oh wow!  That is going to be *so* beautiful.  And i love the choice
> of hairstyle and veil too.  It looks lovely.

and Teddy is always right!

But I'm not familiar with the portrait inspiring the gown; have I missed the
attribution?


> I'll look forward to seeing pictures of the whole wedding party.

As do I...

congratulations!

Stevie

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 05:28:21 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> But I'm not familiar with the portrait inspiring the gown; have I
> missed the
> attribution?

It's Isabella of Portugal, circa 1535 by Titian. According to 20,000
Years of Fashion, the painting is in the Prado in Madrid.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: attribution was:  (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:06:13 -0000
Status: RO

Kate wrote:


> > But I'm not familiar with the portrait inspiring the gown; have I
> > missed the
> > attribution?
> 
> It's Isabella of Portugal, circa 1535 by Titian. According to 20,000
> Years of Fashion, the painting is in the Prado in Madrid.

It is indeed, at

http://www.spanisharts.com/prado/tiziano/isabel.htm

which dates the painting around 1548.

Many thanks 

best wishes

Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:16:14 -0700
Status: RO

IIRC [weren't there two?] the first one (garnet-colored gown) is a
Titian portrait of Isabella of Spain? mid-16th c.? [a friend of mine
also used this one for her wedding dress <g>].  The second portrait is
one of the Bronzino portraits of Eleanor of Toledo.
--Sue

Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Teddy wrote:
> 
> > Oh wow!  That is going to be *so* beautiful.  And i love the choice
> > of hairstyle and veil too.  It looks lovely.
> 
> and Teddy is always right!
> 
> But I'm not familiar with the portrait inspiring the gown; have I missed the
> attribution?
> 
> > I'll look forward to seeing pictures of the whole wedding party.
> 
> As do I...
> 
> congratulations!
> 
> Stevie
> 
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 08:09:57 -0600
Status: RO

I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the shoes,
I can't find any prices.  In addition, it seems the only way to contact
her is with an overseas phone call or fax.  Am I missing the handy email
address and price list, or are they not there?

Melanie Schuessler
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:28:18 -0700
Status: RO

Any reason you want to stick with coutil?  I have used cotton canvas or
denim as an interlining (I know I am assuming that is what you are using it
for) and had great results.  It is cheap and readily available.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 11 11:22:55 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:06:20 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Yes, I've used denim and whatever I could find, but I think that
coutil looks nicer. The last corset that I lined with denim scraps
looked...well, it looked like I lined it with denim scraps. I just
wish I didn't have to pay $12/yd +shipping for coutil.

--- Saragrace knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Any reason you want to stick with coutil?  I have used cotton
> canvas or
> denim as an interlining (I know I am assuming that is what you are
> using it
> for) and had great results.  It is cheap and readily available.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Check out my new EBay store: http://www.ebaystores.com/darkthreadsdesigns
My personal page: http://www.geocities.com/mirv_sewing/
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Adventure can be real happiness.--Fortune Cookie

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:35:03 -0800
Status: RO

Hi all, 

Deb R wrote:
<<In the Textile Society newsletter there is a short brief about this
book,

except the title is different:
"Shoes & Patterns: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London,"
by Francis Grew, Margrethe DeNeergarad & Susan Mitford.
152 pages, 27 b/w ill. $45+ ship

Is this a different book from "Dress Accessories"?>>

Yes, it is.  Dress Accessories focuses on rings, brooches, purses and
many other kinds of dress accessories, rather than the shoes, boots and
pattens covered in the Shoes and Pattens book.

Best regards,

Colleen


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:57:01 EST
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It will take more than a tracing around your foot.  I have been making some 
soft suede medieval shoes and now I know that you need more measurements than 
that.  For a minimum you need to measure across your foot at the instep, mark 
the place you measured on the tracing and give the length.  He will probably 
need more than that for firmer shoes.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>It will take more than a tracing around your foot. &nbsp;I have been making some soft suede medieval shoes and now I know that you need more measurements than that. &nbsp;For a minimum you need to measure across your foot at the instep, mark the place you measured on the tracing and give the length. &nbsp;He will probably need more than that for firmer shoes.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:57:59 +0000
Status: RO

I wondered about the prices too, but noticed that she says she has no
e-mail.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> melanie@faucet.net 03/11/02 02:09pm >>>
I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the
shoes,
I can't find any prices.  In addition, it seems the only way to
contact
her is with an overseas phone call or fax.  Am I missing the handy
email
address and price list, or are they not there?

Melanie Schuessler
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 11 12:44:36 2002
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns--Butterrick too
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:22:45 -0600
Status: RO

I was in my local JoAnns yesterday and the new Simplicity pattern book is
out. I don't recall the numbers on these, but there is an early-mid 1860's
dress with undersleeves and optional apron, corset(two variations--one has
bust gussets; one without)with chemise, and a pattern just for the early to
mid '60's hoopskirt with back interest. JoAnns will have the Simplicity
patterns all at $1.99 next Sat and Sunday. The same person that did the
1850's dress, underpinnings and hoopskirt pattern did this trio too.  I
think the pattern # are 7412, 7415, and 7416. Sleeves and bodice look pretty
authentic in cut, adjusted to the modern figure. What is nice to see is that
one of the dress models is not a size two and carries the large pink plaid
gown with 30+ yards of black braid/ribbon trim off much more successfully
than a very delicately framed model would. Women who recalled later wearing
crinolines in their younger years, remembered fondly how cool they felt in
summer, that they had more freedom of movement and the colorful and often
ornately decorated stockings and footwear that they could choose males a
glimpse of with the correct dip of the crins.

Joanns also has a 2-week sale on their Butterrick patterns. I picked up 7217
and 7218, part of their "Making History" costume series. One is a basic
c1897-1898  skirt with variations and other is a coordinating "waist"(of
course, they call it a blouse. I dated both to about 1897-98 based on the
cut of the skirt(properly gored)and the slightly pouter-pigeon front of the
blouse and reduction of the extreme leg of mutton sleeves from a couple of
years earlier.
Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
From: Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:44:32 +0000
Status: RO

Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :

> I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the shoes,
> I can't find any prices.  In addition, it seems the only way to contact
> her is with an overseas phone call or fax.  Am I missing the handy email
> address and price list, or are they not there?

The front page says "(sorry I don't have e-mail)", so I don't think you're missing that.

And I can't find any prices, either, other than the mention of deposits on the order form.

Google searching....

A review on an entirely different page says "@ about 150 Euro"

Someone mentions Sarah as being one of the most affordable shoemakers.

But that's about it, I'm afraid. No specific prices. Sounds like you're down to phone, fax, or letter.



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From: "Parsla Liepa" <pliepa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject:  Women who Ruled art exhibit (was Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:52:01 -0500
Status: RO


>one of the Bronzino portraits of Eleanor of Toledo.

For those in the South-eastern Michigan area, there is currently an exhibit 
at the University of Michigan Art Museum on "Women who Ruled: Queens, 
Goddesses, Amazons, 1500-1650."   It will be in Ann Arbor until early May, 
and then it will travel.

http://www.umich.edu/~umma/women/

There's the aforementioned Eleanora of Toledo portrait there, an Elizabeth I 
by George Gower, a Venus by Guido Reni, and a Judith by Carravaggio, among 
lots of others.  Lots of etchings, especially.

The exhibit features women who were politically powerful (Elizabeth, a 
couple of the d'Medicis, Eleanora of Toledo, etc), as well as other women 
who were powerful and made an impact-- Joan of Arc, Judith, Amazons, Helen 
of Troy, Eve, etc -- and the way they portrayed in the 15th-16th centuries.

I had a great time yesterday afternoon, having gone in as soon as the 
exhibit opened and then had to be kicked out when the museum closed.

Parsla


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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:44:03 -0500
Status: RO

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Could I just send him a pair of my own well-fitted shoes?
<br>Deb
<br>&nbsp;
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>It will
take more than a tracing around your foot.&nbsp; I have been making some
soft suede medieval shoes and now I know that you need more measurements
than that.&nbsp; For a minimum you need to measure across your foot at
the instep, mark the place you measured on the tracing and give the length.&nbsp;
He will probably need more than that for firmer shoes.</font></font></blockquote>
</html>

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Subject: [h-cost] Thoughts on Attifet/Caul/Coif-References
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:54:51 -0700
Status: RO

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Anyone know where I can find this pic?I am about ready to tackle an Attifet.
I have Margo's pattern, but am interested in any references you know of.  A
search of the Archives resulted in From the Neck Up and an Elizabethan
Costuming books I"ve not heard of till now - Hill & Bucknell and Winter .

I was surprised that they are not mentioned in QEWU and that made me start
to wonder if she doesn't use that name.  What is the differece between a
caul/coif  (just that the former has a band and the latter is more like a
biggens and that neither are wired?) attifet?  There are various headdresses
that look like they are wired, and then of course the veils that have that
heart shape but come out a bit further from the head.

Anyway, just interested in anyone's thoughts and experiences building an
Attifet.

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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Anyone know where I can find this pic?</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D140424702-12032002>I am=20
about ready to tackle an Attifet.&nbsp; I have Margo's pattern, but am=20
interested in any references you know of.&nbsp; A search of the Archives =

resulted in From the Neck Up and an Elizabethan Costuming books I"ve not =
heard=20
of till now <FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3>- =
</FONT><FONT=20
face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3>Hill &amp; Bucknell =
and Winter=20
.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3><SPAN=20
class=3D140424702-12032002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3><SPAN=20
class=3D140424702-12032002>I was surprised that they are not mentioned =
in QEWU and=20
that made me start to wonder if she doesn't use that name.&nbsp; What is =
the=20
differece between a caul/coif&nbsp; (just that the former has a band and =
the=20
latter is more like a biggens and that neither are =
wired?)&nbsp;attifet?&nbsp;=20
There are various headdresses that look like they are wired, and then of =
course=20
the veils that have that heart shape but come out a bit further from the =

head.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3><SPAN=20
class=3D140424702-12032002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3><SPAN=20
class=3D140424702-12032002>Anyway, just interested in anyone's thoughts =
and=20
experiences building an Attifet.</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 11 23:50:28 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thoughts on Attifet/Caul/Coif-References
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:40:14 -0600
Status: RO

> Saragrace knauf wrote:
> 
> I am about ready to tackle an Attifet.  I have Margo's pattern, but am
> interested in any references you know of.  A search of the Archives
> resulted in From the Neck Up and an Elizabethan Costuming books I"ve
> not heard of till now - Hill & Bucknell and Winter .

I can't speculate on whether there was such a thing as an "attifet" made
in the way that these books suggest, but I'd be cautious in taking any
of them as gospel.

If you're going for historic accuracy (or as close as one can get with
no surviving examples), please don't use either Hill & Bucknell or
Winter.  Hill and Bucknell has so many imaginary patterns in it (ie,
patterns that could not possibly work on a 3D body or patterns that have
no historic basis) that I wouldn't want to trust their reconstruction if
they have one.  Winter is a good starting point for RenFaire, but I
wouldn't use it for anything serious.

>From the Neck Up is a _wonderful_ millinery how-to book, but again she's
just guessing the shape to get the look.  I don't think she researched
what that look evolved from and what it turned into to get a sense of
the actual construction.

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:46:48 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


I understand that this book is out of print .. does
anyone have any recommendations on where to find a
copy ?
Thanks
Carol

=====
....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....

"The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."

"The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde

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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:52:38 -0600
Status: RO

Amazon.co.uk still had copies last I looked, 85.00 American dollars. It is
no longer out of print, they ran a new batch 2 years ago and started selling
them again last year. A fluke on the part of Amazon.co.uk cause quite a stir
here then. :)

They mispriced the book, which has a base price of 75.00, at 35.00 American
dollars. Unfortunately the artist and former print shop worker in me quickly
picked out that the printing and more importantly the binding was of a
lesser quality than the original print run. But if you want it for the
educational value it is priceless none the less!

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Ansteorra, Steppes, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤
----- Original Message -----
From: "carol" <ladynoire1013@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 9:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> I understand that this book is out of print .. does
> anyone have any recommendations on where to find a
> copy ?
> Thanks
> Carol
>
> =====
> ....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....
>
> "The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of
dark desires."
>
> "The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar
Wilde
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:56:29 -0500
Status: RO

Fred Struthers has it in his winter catalog for $190.00, I think?
His e-mail is: fsbks@mcn.org
Deb R.

>I understand that this book is out of print .. does
>anyone have any recommendations on where to find a
>copy ?

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:15:08 -0600
Status: RO

At 03:44 PM 3/11/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :
>
> > I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the shoes,
> > I can't find any prices.  In addition, it seems the only way to contact
> > her is with an overseas phone call or fax.  Am I missing the handy email
> > address and price list, or are they not there?
>
>The front page says "(sorry I don't have e-mail)", so I don't think you're 
>missing that.
>
>And I can't find any prices, either, other than the mention of deposits on 
>the order form.
>
>Google searching....
>
>A review on an entirely different page says "@ about 150 Euro"
>
>Someone mentions Sarah as being one of the most affordable shoemakers.
>
>But that's about it, I'm afraid. No specific prices. Sounds like you're 
>down to phone, fax, or letter.

Um... have you seen this page?  It definitely has prices on it and they 
range from 92 pounds to 448 pounds plus any extras.

http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 00:41:07 -0500
Status: RO

At www.poisonpenpress.com  Devra has it listed at $165 US.

She also has an entire page devoted to "costume" books.  Worth a look if
nothing else.


Lyn Greaves
Lady Rosamund d'Alwareton, CM, OTerp, OSalamander

Remember: Amateurs built the ark, but professionals built the Titanic


----- Original Message -----
From: "carol" <ladynoire1013@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 10:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> I understand that this book is out of print .. does
> anyone have any recommendations on where to find a
> copy ?
> Thanks
> Carol
>
> =====
> ....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....
>
> "The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of
dark desires."
>
> "The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar
Wilde
>
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:33:37 -0000
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On 11 Mar 2002 at 22:15, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> 
> Um... have you seen this page?  It definitely has prices on it and they 
> range from 92 pounds to 448 pounds plus any extras.
> 
> http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm

How very odd. I wonder why she has two completely different web pages? I was looking 
at:
www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/ 

which has the pictures. Looks like the page with prices has no pictures?



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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> Well, I didn't find a whole lot of other cordwainers on the web.
> What I would like are some customized poulaines.
> If you were extremely happy with his work, I'm satisfied
> he knows what he's doing. I could trace my own foot & send
> it to him.
> Thanks Teddy!

You're welcome Lisa.  Morgan's work is very good, and I don't think 
I've ever heard any complaints about his footwear in all the yers I've 
been going to events where he trades.

He isn't the cheapest, nor the most expensive and you do get 
quality for the price.

> > They made my bucket top (17th century boots) and I'm extremely
> > happy with them.

Teddy

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:30:28 +0000 (GMT)
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> Yes, I've used denim and whatever I could find, but I think that
> coutil looks nicer. The last corset that I lined with denim scraps
> looked...well, it looked like I lined it with denim scraps. I just
> wish I didn't have to pay $12/yd +shipping for coutil. 

Erm... I'd have thought that anyone close enough to see the 
*inside* of your corset would *not* be interested in whether it was 
lined in denim or coutil...  Unless denim lined corsets are, for some 
reason a real turn-off for them..... or something?

Teddy
(probably missing some subtle point here...)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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> Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :
> 
> > I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the
> > shoes, I can't find any prices. 

> And I can't find any prices, either, other than the mention of
> deposits on the order form.

Hmmm... I'll have a look at home and see if I still have her pricelist 
form the Cressing Temple traders faire last May... prices may have 
gone up since then but it'd be an indication.... if I can find it...<g>

Teddy

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:06:35 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

What about Kevin Garlick.  He made some Tudor shoes for me and they are so comfortable.  We sorted
it all out by post and they fit perfectly.  Kevin sends out very specific instructions on how to
measure your feet.  However he does usually have a long waiting list (mind you he did mine for me
quite quckly).

Kevin Garlick
21 South Street
Ventnor
England
PO38 1NG
Tel : 01983-854753
Fax : 01983-854753

Try emailing kmgarlick@lineone.net I found it on a living history forum
(http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/1700-1800/forum/xw_160.html) so it might not be right.

Rachel 

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 
> > Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :
> > 
> > > I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the
> > > shoes, I can't find any prices. 
> 
> > And I can't find any prices, either, other than the mention of
> > deposits on the order form.
> 
> Hmmm... I'll have a look at home and see if I still have her pricelist 
> form the Cressing Temple traders faire last May... prices may have 
> gone up since then but it'd be an indication.... if I can find it...<g>
> 
> Teddy
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:10:18 -0600
Status: RO

Thanks to all who offered info on Sarah Juniper's prices.  I now have at
least an idea of how much they would be.  Now to gather money....anyone
have a money tree?

Melanie
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:41:50 GMT
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Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :

> Thanks to all who offered info on Sarah Juniper's prices.  I now have at
> least an idea of how much they would be.  Now to gather money....anyone
> have a money tree?


http://shop.store.yahoo.com/twinleafcatalogue/631025.html

Yours for $2.25





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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 2002 10:30:28 am"
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:02:05 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I don't know about the original poster, but with the stress levels
my bust can create in a corset, something that has even a little bit of streth
like denim just doesn't look nearly as good and solid as coutil.  
wearing denim, I always feeling like I'm listing to one side.. ;)

.heather.

> 
> > Yes, I've used denim and whatever I could find, but I think that
> > coutil looks nicer. The last corset that I lined with denim scraps
> > looked...well, it looked like I lined it with denim scraps. I just
> > wish I didn't have to pay $12/yd +shipping for coutil. 
> 
> Erm... I'd have thought that anyone close enough to see the 
> *inside* of your corset would *not* be interested in whether it was 
> lined in denim or coutil...  Unless denim lined corsets are, for some 
> reason a real turn-off for them..... or something?
> 
> Teddy
> (probably missing some subtle point here...)
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:05:40 +0000 (GMT)
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> Thanks to all who offered info on Sarah Juniper's prices.  I now have
> at least an idea of how much they would be.  Now to gather
> money....anyone have a money tree?
> 

Hey Melanie, 

How about picking a tree, and charging people for watching when 
you climb it in full farthingale looking for money to gather?

Of course, they'd be more likely to give money to a sponsored 
Elizabethan tree-climb if it were for a charity.... I know *we* would 
consider period shoes for a costumer as a Good Cause, but most 
of your paying public might have different ideas....<G>

Teddy

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--part1_17b.4f0afdd.29bf79f4_boundary
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       I just got a copy from Amazon.co.uk.  I had to wait almost two months, 
but it finally arrived.  Amazon.com can get it too, but it costs a lot more 
in spite of the heavy cost of shipping from England.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



--part1_17b.4f0afdd.29bf79f4_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I just got a copy from Amazon.co.uk. &nbsp;I had to wait almost two months, but it finally arrived. &nbsp;Amazon.com can get it too, but it costs a lot more in spite of the heavy cost of shipping from England.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_17b.4f0afdd.29bf79f4_boundary--
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:10:29 -0800
Status: RO

I use Pillow Ticking.  Is that the same as coutil?

Brandy

Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?


> I don't know about the original poster, but with the stress levels
> my bust can create in a corset, something that has even a little bit of
streth
> like denim just doesn't look nearly as good and solid as coutil.
> wearing denim, I always feeling like I'm listing to one side.. ;)
>
> .heather.



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To: h-costume@indra.com, <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:57:25 -0800
Status: RO



Until recently, I thought "coutile" meant a herringbone twill weave cotton
fabric.  Then I ordered coutile from a supplier and got plain twill, no
herringbone weave.  When I qestioned it, I was told that "coutile" meant
twill, and if I want herringbone I need to ask for it specifically.

I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.  


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"

Costume Classes in Northern California:  www.margospatterns.com/mayclass.htm

See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:14:50 -0600
Status: RO

OK - after checking fit on hips....should we include tabs on this corset, or
would they just create the same problem?

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin + Mara Riley" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question


> At 10:52 PM 3/5/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> >It sounds like she needs something that will keep the corset sitting
where
> >it is supposed to. I do not have this problem, as I am quite hourglass
> >shaped and the corset stays just fine :-)
> >
> >Any hints, tips, instructions, details that we can use to draft up a
corset
> >that will work for her? Thanks!
>
> Aside from shortening it just a bit (I've found that when I fit a corset,
I
> need to pay close attention to the fit over the hips, and often wind up
> shortening the cardboard mockups in this area), maybe she could fasten her
> petticoats to the corset tabs (i.e., put eyelets in the tabs and lace the
> petticoat waistband to the corset) for some additional weight to help hold
> it down.  But I'd try fitting it better over the hips first.
>
> Regards,
> Mara
> Kevin + Mara Riley
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:03:33 -0000
Status: RO

Margo Anderson wrote, of cotton


>Herringbone
> coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
> thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.

Have you any views on herringbone linen for these purposes? I've recently
acquired large amounts thereof, and after redecorating my living room with
it (trust me- a staple gun is much faster than buckets of paint) I had in
mind numerous jackets, skirts petticoats etc. Corsets would be good too...

best wishes

Stevie

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:59:40 -0700
Status: RO

Would Mistress Rondinella please contact me privately?

Thanks,

MD/Marged
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:23:31 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:03 PM 03/12/2002 -0000, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>Margo Anderson wrote, of cotton
>
>
>>Herringbone
>> coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
>> thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
>
>Have you any views on herringbone linen for these purposes? I've recently
>acquired large amounts thereof, 

Aside from being exceedingly jealous, as I've never even seen herringbone
linen, I couldn't say.  It would probably depend on the tightness of the
weave.  


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"

Costume Classes in Northern California:  www.margospatterns.com/mayclass.htm

See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:54:20 -0500
Status: RO

Yeah, there's nothing like someone saying they have enough herringbone
linen to cover their walls to really make a girl go completely green
with envy!  Yowza!   Anyway, herringbone linen isn't all that difficult
to obtain, I've even managed to get it at Joann's, believe it or not.
Hmm, upon recollection, that may have been a linen/cotton blend...
still quite nice tho.  My new favorite treasure is a 5 yard piece of
1/8" herringbone linen that I bartered with a friend to get. Very fine,
in a lovely old gold color.  
Probably not good for lining corsets, but very nice for an early period
underdress.

Getting back to the hemp thread of a couple of weeks ago,
www.hemptraders.com  carries a herringbone hemp fabric, along with
several different weights of up to 17 oz canvas.  If you ask, they'll
gladly send swatches.  

Linda

At 10:03 PM 03/12/2002 -0000, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>Margo Anderson wrote, of cotton
>
>
>>Herringbone
>> coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is
much
>> thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
>
>Have you any views on herringbone linen for these purposes? I've
recently
>acquired large amounts thereof, 

Aside from being exceedingly jealous, as I've never even seen
herringbone
linen, I couldn't say.  It would probably depend on the tightness of the
weave.  


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 19:21:35 -0700
Status: RO

Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
corset with coutil.....;-)
--Sue

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> Until recently, I thought "coutile" meant a herringbone twill weave cotton
> fabric.  Then I ordered coutile from a supplier and got plain twill, no
> herringbone weave.  When I qestioned it, I was told that "coutile" meant
> twill, and if I want herringbone I need to ask for it specifically.
> 
> I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
> includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
> plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
> coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
> thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
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Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
> corset with coutil.....;-)

I dunno about Margo, but I buy mine from Lacis in Berkeley.
http://www.lacis.com/

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:24:53 -0700
Status: RO

I've done it with all three and had great sucess-no stretching or
distortions in 3 years.  I am very careful to buy all cotton denim or
canvas-they like to slip those blends in.  Of course I bone the S*&$ out of
my corsets though with actual boning casing, bias tape or twill tape
(depending on my mood).  That is just so I can cheat and not have to draw
all those lines and avoids multiple layers of  fabric from shifting.  I
haven't seen any great advantage to the coutil except that I was able to dye
it the color I wanted and therefore didn't use it as an interlining but as
the actual lining.  On the other hand, $12 bucks/yard (And I got at least 2
corsets out of a yard) isn't much to invest in an item which will last a
long time if taken care of.

Cheers, Sg


**I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
**includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
**plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
**coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
**thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.

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From: Kate <ailithmac@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mistress Rondinella
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 19:34:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

So far as I know, Rondi isn't on any of the lists that you posted
this note to. I will be happy to forward it to her, though.

kate

--- Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com> wrote:
> Would Mistress Rondinella please contact me privately?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> MD/Marged
> _______________________________________________
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Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to reach Linda Rice, and the
address I have for her is bouncing. Linda, please contact me directly.
Thanks.

--Robin

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:43:41 -0500
Status: RO

--=====================_258637233==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 07:43 AM 3/12/02 -0700, you wrote:
>On 11 Mar 2002 at 22:15, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> >
> > Um... have you seen this page?  It definitely has prices on it and they
> > range from 92 pounds to 448 pounds plus any extras.
> >
> > http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm
>
>How very odd. I wonder why she has two completely different web pages? I 
>was looking
>at:
>www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/

The page for Ages Of Elegance belongs to a friend of mine, Dawn Wood, and 
it's possible she's either a dealer for Sarah Juniper, or got permission to 
post a current price list.  Either way, write and ask *grin*


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_258637233==_.ALT
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<html>
At 07:43 AM 3/12/02 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>On 11 Mar 2002 at 22:15, Danielle
Nunn-Weinberg wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Um... have you seen this page?&nbsp; It definitely has prices on it
and they <br>
&gt; range from 92 pounds to 448 pounds plus any extras.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt;
<a href="http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm" eudora="autourl">http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm</a><br>
<br>
How very odd. I wonder why she has two completely different web pages? I
was looking <br>
at:<br>
<a href="http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/" eudora="autourl">www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/</a>
</blockquote><br>
The page for Ages Of Elegance belongs to a friend of mine, Dawn Wood, and it's possible she's either a dealer for Sarah Juniper, or got permission to post a current price list.&nbsp; Either way, write and ask *grin*<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</a><a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">html<br>
</a><font size=4>Gallery: <a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

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At 07:21 PM 03/12/2002 -0700, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
>corset with coutil.....;-)

Why, Granndgarb.com, of course!  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"

Costume Classes in Northern California:  www.margospatterns.com/mayclass.htm

See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:01:20 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I get mine from greenberg & hammer in NY, It's around $10 a yard if
you buy in ten yard increments.  

Speaking of which, I should order some more.

.heather.


> Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
> corset with coutil.....;-)
> --Sue
> 
> Margo Anderson wrote:
> > 
> > Until recently, I thought "coutile" meant a herringbone twill weave cotton
> > fabric.  Then I ordered coutile from a supplier and got plain twill, no
> > herringbone weave.  When I qestioned it, I was told that "coutile" meant
> > twill, and if I want herringbone I need to ask for it specifically.
> > 
> > I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
> > includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
> > plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
> > coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
> > thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
> > 
> > Margo
> > "One Tough Costumer"
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 03:54:47 -0500
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Robin,

Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside your
window that she will be there in a minute.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 12:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Linda Rice?


>
> Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to reach Linda Rice, and the
> address I have for her is bouncing. Linda, please contact me directly.
> Thanks.
>
> --Robin
>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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> I don't know about the original poster, but with the stress levels my
> bust can create in a corset, something that has even a little bit of
> streth like denim just doesn't look nearly as good and solid as
> coutil. wearing denim, I always feeling like I'm listing to one side..
> ;)

Thanks Heather, that's just the sort of detail I might need when 
making a corset for someone in the future....

Teddy  

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 08:34:19 -0500
Status: RO

Oh Penny, you know me so well! Thanks for the compliment. <g>

On a side note, Robin says my post to her came in garbled.  Is it like
that for anyone else?  We just got a new computer, and I haven't quite
gotten WindowsXP figured out yet.  I swear it's set to send in text, but
maybe I'm missing a setting someplace. Sorry!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] 
On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
 
Robin,

Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside your
window that she will be there in a minute.

Penny Ladnier




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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 07:40:26 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Robin,
> 
> Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside your
> window that she will be there in a minute.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 12:48 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
> 
> >
> > Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to reach Linda Rice, and the
> > address I have for her is bouncing. Linda, please contact me directly.
> > Thanks.
> >
> > --Robin
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 09:43:16 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


$10-15 dollars a yard is a small price to pay when a corset takes so
little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as heavy a coutil as
I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.

I do have a funny story about ising a plain twill for a corset.  I think
it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
works better if self-lined).

A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk)rz
**
pulling on the diagonal.  If it had been self lined
it would have been stabilized.  I wonder if extra boning would hav also
solved the problem.  It was funny when she first put it on and before we
figured out what was happening.

On Tue, 12 Mar 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:

>I get mine from greenberg & hammer in NY, It's around $10 a yard if
>you buy in ten yard increments.
>
>Speaking of which, I should order some more.
>
>.heather.
>
>
>> Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
>> corset with coutil.....;-)
>> --Sue
>>
>> Margo Anderson wrote:
>> >
>> > Until recently, I thought "coutile" meant a herringbone twill weave cotton
>> > fabric.  Then I ordered coutile from a supplier and got plain twill, no
>> > herringbone weave.  When I qestioned it, I was told that "coutile" meant
>> > twill, and if I want herringbone I need to ask for it specifically.
>> >
>> > I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
>> > includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
>> > plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
>> > coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
>> > thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
>> >
>> > Margo
>> > "One Tough Costumer"
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset couti
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 09:50:30 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


I hit something that sent this message too soon.  Here goes again.

$10-15 dollars a yard seems to be a small price to pay when a corset
takes so little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as stiff a
coutil as I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.

I do have a funny story about using a plain twill for a corset.  I think
it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
works better if self-lined).

A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk) it was pulling on
the diagonal.  If it had been self lined it would have been stabilized.
I wonder if extra boning casings would have also solved the problem.
It was funny when she first put it on and before we figured out what was
happening.  We thought the dressmaker might have been on drugs :~).

I can sometimes find good twilled cottons in a good upholstery/drapery
department.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 13 12:46:19 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] URL: selection of Renaissance sculpture portraits, Dalmatia
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:42:03 +0100
Status: RO

Hello,

here is its URL:
http://pubwww.srce.hr/muzej_sibenik/portreti/portret-g02.html

You can forward any related queries to me.
Sincerely,

Jadran Kale
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
    @  http://zupanija.sibenik.museum
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 11:49:00 -0500
Status: RO

Question -- what happens if you use two layers (lining & interlining) of a
twill and make sure one will twist one way and the other in the opposite
direction?
Kate

Katy Bishop wrote:

> I hit something that sent this message too soon.  Here goes again.
>
> $10-15 dollars a yard seems to be a small price to pay when a corset
> takes so little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as stiff a
> coutil as I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.
>
> I do have a funny story about using a plain twill for a corset.  I think
> it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
> works better if self-lined).
>
> A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
> unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
> what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
> body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk) it was pulling on
> the diagonal.  If it had been self lined it would have been stabilized.
> I wonder if extra boning casings would have also solved the problem.
> It was funny when she first put it on and before we figured out what was
> happening.  We thought the dressmaker might have been on drugs :~).
>
> I can sometimes find good twilled cottons in a good upholstery/drapery
> department.
>
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 10:43:19 -0800
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------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1CA7B.E387F1D0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
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Which window???  Where??

Yeah, it's akin to waving a red flag in front of the charging bull or lig=
hting that candle to torment the helpless moths..

Gia/Giacinta

----- Original Message -----
From: Sue Clemenger
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 6:58 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice?

Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
> Robin,
>
> Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside your
> window that she will be there in a minute.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 12:48 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
>
> >
> > Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to reach Linda Rice, and t=
he
> > address I have for her is bouncing. Linda, please contact me directly=
.
> > Thanks.
> >
> > --Robin
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Which window??=
?&nbsp; Where??</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Yeah, it's akin to waving a =
red flag in front of the charging bull or lighting that candle to torment=
 the helpless moths..</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DI=
V>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px=
; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <=
DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV st=
yle=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> =
Sue Clemenger</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesda=
y, March 13, 2002 6:58 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B=
> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</=
B> Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice?</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Yeah, but, Penny....us=
ing bait like that might attract the wrong sort,<BR>like me, in addition =
to Linda....&lt;g&gt;<BR>--sue<BR><BR>Penny Ladnier wrote:<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt=
; Robin,<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave s=
ome fabric outside your<BR>&gt; window that she will be there in a minute=
.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Penny Ladnier<BR>&gt; Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; =
Costume Classroom<BR>&gt; http://www.costumegallery.com<BR>&gt; http://ww=
w.costumeclassroom.com<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; ----- Original Message -----<BR>&g=
t; From: "Robin Netherton" &lt;robin@shell.nightowl.net&gt;<BR>&gt; To: "=
Historic Costume List" &lt;h-costume@indra.com&gt;<BR>&gt; Sent: Wednesda=
y, March 13, 2002 12:48 AM<BR>&gt; Subject: [h-cost] Linda Rice?<BR>&gt;<=
BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to r=
each Linda Rice, and the<BR>&gt; &gt; address I have for her is bouncing.=
 Linda, please contact me directly.<BR>&gt; &gt; Thanks.<BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>=
&gt; &gt; --Robin<BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h=
-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.co=
m/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:10:30 EST
Status: RO

A good place for coutil for corsets is Alter Years in Southern California.  Their web address is - www.alteryears.com and the regular address is: 8960 E. Huntington Dr., San Gabriel, CA 91775-1267 (626) 614-9400 (phone), (626) 614-9499 (fax).  The shop is near Pasadena and is a costumer's dream fantasy!  I believe it sells for $10 or $12/yd. but it is the herringbone weave.  They also sell corset kits and patterns as well. 

Good luck.

Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
(323) 344-0919
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Kate Pinner <pinner@mccc.edu>
cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset couti
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:30:19 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


I think, if you use twill for lining and outer fabric, wrong sides
together, the weave will be going different ways and will stabilize each
other.  The only corsets I have made from drill were self lined and
stayed straight.

Katy

On Wed, 13 Mar 2002, Kate Pinner wrote:

>Question -- what happens if you use two layers (lining & interlining) of a
>twill and make sure one will twist one way and the other in the opposite
>direction?
>Kate
>
>Katy Bishop wrote:
>
>> I hit something that sent this message too soon.  Here goes again.
>>
>> $10-15 dollars a yard seems to be a small price to pay when a corset
>> takes so little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as stiff a
>> coutil as I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.
>>
>> I do have a funny story about using a plain twill for a corset.  I think
>> it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
>> works better if self-lined).
>>
>> A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
>> unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
>> what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
>> body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk) it was pulling on
>> the diagonal.  If it had been self lined it would have been stabilized.
>> I wonder if extra boning casings would have also solved the problem.
>> It was funny when she first put it on and before we figured out what was
>> happening.  We thought the dressmaker might have been on drugs :~).
>>
>> I can sometimes find good twilled cottons in a good upholstery/drapery
>> department.
>>
>> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>_______________________________________________
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:29:54 -0500
Status: RO

Penny, you are so bad!  Now I'm gonna hafta explain this: 

A couple of weeks ago, I heard through another friend of mine that a
woman who lives in Richmond (VA) was getting out of the SCA and was
going to have a "yard sale" of her stash.  Well, gee, twist my arm!  So,
since I was driving over an hour to get there but couldn't meet with
this person until after 6pm, I figured I might as well find Penny and
make an afternoon adventure of it. Gang, let me warn you, Penny is evil!
Yes! Really!  She forced me to go to a couple of antique stores, one of
which was literally packed to the gills with so much neat old stuff it
made my head swim. It's a good thing that I didn't have enough money to
buy furniture, or else that boar's headed breakfront would be in my
living room right now. (It was $9500, yikes!)

Then, because we still had an hour to kill, she made me go to a used
bookstore. Arrgh!! No, Penny please, not the books!  Yes, I bought a
couple of books, which was so not in my budget. I find used books even
harder to resist than new ones, because after all, it's not like it will
be there when you come back next week, right? I got a really neat one on
Jacobean embroidery, and one on Greek folk costumes, and an old one on
brass rubbings.  

So, we finally get to the house with the stash for sale. I can feel my
adrenalin rising as I knock on the front door. I am ready for the hunt!
Much to my delight, the lady had wonderful taste in fabrics, and the
majority of her stash was wools, linens and silks. She seemed to have
the same interests as I do, which is Viking period and 14th century.
Almost 2 hours later, I'm still wallowing in fabric paradise, yakking
away, while poor Penny is sitting on the couch giving me that look that
I thought only my sister could give. (My sister has sworn NEVER to go to
within 2 miles of a fabric or craft store with me again!) Penny gently
reminds me that it's almost 8 o'clock, and she hasn't had dinner yet.
Food? Who needs food, I got fabric! Can I help it if I get easily
entranced by the flutter of silk veiling? That the small piece of
embroidered red silk made me dream of little red silk slippers? I could
go on (and on and on) but I know that most of you here understand
exactly what I'm talking about. I finally made it out of there with 3
big bags of stuff, and a bit more that she's holding for me. I also got
13 yards of heavy linen canvas to make a tent with, or perhaps soft
armor if I decide that it isn't enough for that project.

So, be careful where you wave your fabrics, I just might show up! Penny,
you ready for a road trip? <g>

Linda

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
 
Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Robin, 
> Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside
your
> window that she will be there in a minute.



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Subject: [h-cost] Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:27:52 -0700
Status: RO

My re-enactment group has asked me to help them get their costumes to be
more authentic.  This group identifies themselves as 'Celtic', but roughly
translated I think they really mean Scots.  Though their "period" can be
anywhere from 11th century to 1650, most of them attempt the Elizabethan
period.  They are working class trades folk-people who spin, weave, -mostly
make their consumables.

Most of them wear a leine, bodices and several skirts.   I've not found much
specific to that time or place.  I've assumed that with the proximity of
England, Scotland that the fashions which the wealthy liberally imported
from the continent just trickled down to the lower classes-they just
imitated it to the degree they could.  So do you think a bodice and skirt is
still appropriate?  Most of the stuff I have seen looks more like they have
a gown attached to a bodice.

So-I'd be interested in your thoughts on that


Now the fitting question.  Most of these gals are generously sized.  They
are not interested in "cinching it up" so to speak-wearing a corset.  Is it
safe to assume that bodices (skirt attached or not) might be lightly boned
(like at the closure) and just stiffly lined?  I was thinking about using
the "lying down and letting gravity take its course" method for getting a
snug but not too tight fit.  I used that successfully on myself when I made
Drea's Kirtle-anyone had any experience with it fitting larger women?

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Subject: [h-cost] coutil/twill corset
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:09:50 -0600
Status: RO

I use twill all the time for corsets and have never had a problem with 
them twisting.   Possibly because, when I cut out the fabric for the 
corsets I have the fabric folded and cut out 2 panels at a time, so 
therefore when the lining is sewn to the outer fabric, the twills 
would naturally be going in the opposite direction. Maybe they work 
together to stablize it?

I use coutil whenever it is important for the corset to be as thinly 
made as possible.  Like if it is going under a fine muslin or 
lightweight damask or silk charmeuse  that is fitted.  I use coutil as 
a lining for corsets that are made from satin or silk brocades for 
stability and durability.

I use canvas mostly for elizabethan/tudor styled corsets.  It does 
stretch, but since I recommend to my people that they wash the corset 
after the first couple of wearings, they usually shrink just enough to 
  compensate for the stretching.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:55:54 -0500
Status: RO

Hmmm... the first time I have been accused of making someone go shopping.  I
guess I will need to break your arm to come to Richmond for the big antique
show at the fairgrounds this weekend!!!!!  I am going to it to look for more
photographs and fashion plates.  I am also looking for my next gown to wear
to the ball this summer.  Linda, I think the antique book show is in May.

Oh!  The Southern Women's Show is at the fairgrounds April 12-14.  I went
last year and it was GRAND!!!  Lots of fun fashion shows.  This show travels
all over the South.  So if interested and want to see if it is coming to
city  http://www.southernshows.com/sws/index.html

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice?


> Penny, you are so bad!  Now I'm gonna hafta explain this:
>
> A couple of weeks ago, I heard through another friend of mine that a
> woman who lives in Richmond (VA) was getting out of the SCA and was
> going to have a "yard sale" of her stash.  Well, gee, twist my arm!  So,
> since I was driving over an hour to get there but couldn't meet with
> this person until after 6pm, I figured I might as well find Penny and
> make an afternoon adventure of it. Gang, let me warn you, Penny is evil!
> Yes! Really!  She forced me to go to a couple of antique stores, one of
> which was literally packed to the gills with so much neat old stuff it
> made my head swim. It's a good thing that I didn't have enough money to
> buy furniture, or else that boar's headed breakfront would be in my
> living room right now. (It was $9500, yikes!)
>
> Then, because we still had an hour to kill, she made me go to a used
> bookstore. Arrgh!! No, Penny please, not the books!  Yes, I bought a
> couple of books, which was so not in my budget. I find used books even
> harder to resist than new ones, because after all, it's not like it will
> be there when you come back next week, right? I got a really neat one on
> Jacobean embroidery, and one on Greek folk costumes, and an old one on
> brass rubbings.
>
> So, we finally get to the house with the stash for sale. I can feel my
> adrenalin rising as I knock on the front door. I am ready for the hunt!
> Much to my delight, the lady had wonderful taste in fabrics, and the
> majority of her stash was wools, linens and silks. She seemed to have
> the same interests as I do, which is Viking period and 14th century.
> Almost 2 hours later, I'm still wallowing in fabric paradise, yakking
> away, while poor Penny is sitting on the couch giving me that look that
> I thought only my sister could give. (My sister has sworn NEVER to go to
> within 2 miles of a fabric or craft store with me again!) Penny gently
> reminds me that it's almost 8 o'clock, and she hasn't had dinner yet.
> Food? Who needs food, I got fabric! Can I help it if I get easily
> entranced by the flutter of silk veiling? That the small piece of
> embroidered red silk made me dream of little red silk slippers? I could
> go on (and on and on) but I know that most of you here understand
> exactly what I'm talking about. I finally made it out of there with 3
> big bags of stuff, and a bit more that she's holding for me. I also got
> 13 yards of heavy linen canvas to make a tent with, or perhaps soft
> armor if I decide that it isn't enough for that project.
>
> So, be careful where you wave your fabrics, I just might show up! Penny,
> you ready for a road trip? <g>
>
> Linda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
>
> Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
> like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
> --sue
>
> Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >
> > Robin,
> > Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside
> your
> > window that she will be there in a minute.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
>


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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:06:08 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:27 PM 03/13/2002 -0700, Saragrace knauf wrote:

>Now the fitting question.  Most of these gals are generously sized.  They
>are not interested in "cinching it up" so to speak-wearing a corset.  Is it
>safe to assume that bodices (skirt attached or not) might be lightly boned
>(like at the closure) and just stiffly lined?  

That's how I do it.  I recently taught a class in lower class Renn Faire
costume and realized I'd been noble too long--I didn't have anything
resembling a lower class "wench" bodice.  So I made one.  Rather to my
srprise, I found that my standard pattern for a upper class front fastened
bodice worked just fine with no alteration beyond using lacing rather than
hooks.  It makes a big difference when your goal is authentic flattening
rather than "tits on a plate'!

I made it in wool, flatlined with duck, and boned it at the center front
opening, and with diagonals running from the corner of the neck to the
center front waist, and from the lower front armseye to the center front
waist.  These two pairs of diagonals flattened my bosom quite adequately
and gave me  comfortable support.  I'm a size 28 C-D cup.  

You can see a picture of the results here:
http://www.margospatterns.com/MayClass.htm

Which is probably the only time anyone's ever going to see me wearing the
Generic Wench, brass grommets and all.  That's my Flemish attempt next to
me, but it doesn't fit that dress form at all.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:08:53 -0700
Status: RO

 Oh yes-this looks very nice.  I think I will cheat a bit and use your
patterns for the starting point!
**http://www.margospatterns.com/MayClass.htm


Sg

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 20:41:47 -0500
Status: RO

Penny- two words: Power Bars.

My boyfriend is the SAME WAY in resale shops, so I hav always learned to
carry something to eat that travels well.

And yes, I know they taste like a hockey puck.

-kel
----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Rice <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice?


> Penny, you are so bad!  Now I'm gonna hafta explain this:
>
> A couple of weeks ago, I heard through another friend of mine that a
> woman who lives in Richmond (VA) was getting out of the SCA and was
> going to have a "yard sale" of her stash.  Well, gee, twist my arm!  So,
> since I was driving over an hour to get there but couldn't meet with
> this person until after 6pm, I figured I might as well find Penny and
> make an afternoon adventure of it. Gang, let me warn you, Penny is evil!
> Yes! Really!  She forced me to go to a couple of antique stores, one of
> which was literally packed to the gills with so much neat old stuff it
> made my head swim. It's a good thing that I didn't have enough money to
> buy furniture, or else that boar's headed breakfront would be in my
> living room right now. (It was $9500, yikes!)
>
> Then, because we still had an hour to kill, she made me go to a used
> bookstore. Arrgh!! No, Penny please, not the books!  Yes, I bought a
> couple of books, which was so not in my budget. I find used books even
> harder to resist than new ones, because after all, it's not like it will
> be there when you come back next week, right? I got a really neat one on
> Jacobean embroidery, and one on Greek folk costumes, and an old one on
> brass rubbings.
>
> So, we finally get to the house with the stash for sale. I can feel my
> adrenalin rising as I knock on the front door. I am ready for the hunt!
> Much to my delight, the lady had wonderful taste in fabrics, and the
> majority of her stash was wools, linens and silks. She seemed to have
> the same interests as I do, which is Viking period and 14th century.
> Almost 2 hours later, I'm still wallowing in fabric paradise, yakking
> away, while poor Penny is sitting on the couch giving me that look that
> I thought only my sister could give. (My sister has sworn NEVER to go to
> within 2 miles of a fabric or craft store with me again!) Penny gently
> reminds me that it's almost 8 o'clock, and she hasn't had dinner yet.
> Food? Who needs food, I got fabric! Can I help it if I get easily
> entranced by the flutter of silk veiling? That the small piece of
> embroidered red silk made me dream of little red silk slippers? I could
> go on (and on and on) but I know that most of you here understand
> exactly what I'm talking about. I finally made it out of there with 3
> big bags of stuff, and a bit more that she's holding for me. I also got
> 13 yards of heavy linen canvas to make a tent with, or perhaps soft
> armor if I decide that it isn't enough for that project.
>
> So, be careful where you wave your fabrics, I just might show up! Penny,
> you ready for a road trip? <g>
>
> Linda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
>
> Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
> like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
> --sue
>
> Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >
> > Robin,
> > Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside
> your
> > window that she will be there in a minute.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
>
>
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Half round pearls?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:56:09 -0500
Status: RO

Can anyone tell me how pearls (which seem to be half-round pearls) 
may have been attached to a 1560's Renaissance gown fabric? You would 
think the painted depictions would show holes in the pearls if they 
were sewn in place, but none I have seen do.  Would they have used 
some kind of glue? 

  Also, does anyone know of a source for non-oval 8-10 mm half round 
pearls (preferably glass) I can order from?  I'm having a terrible 
time finding anything other than fresh water rice pearls and faux 
plastic spherical beads.  

(And by the way, Bjarne, I have tried the emboiery of metalic gold 
with a similarly colored silk thread on the ivory organza 
chemisette/partlet and it works perfectly! I decided I would prefer 
gold on white, instead of white on white to match the rest of the 
gown I'm working on.  Thanks for the tip -- I would never have 
thought of it on my own.)

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Half round pearls?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:02:36 -0600
Status: RO

I have gotten half-round glass pearls from Berger Beads in LA. I don't
believe they do business on the web, but you can call and ask them about
their stock, the times that I have called them they have been very
helpful.

And they sell something called 'rim settings' which are a thin band of
gold or silver with prongs that go down into the fabric. They are quite
effective and set the pearls off quite nicely. Yes, Berger carries those
as well.


Karen




On Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:56:09 -0500 "Kimberly Tribe"
<Kimberly@Antiquarum.zzn.com> writes:
> Can anyone tell me how pearls (which seem to be half-round pearls) 
> may have been attached to a 1560's Renaissance gown fabric? You 
> would think the painted depictions would show holes in the pearls if
they 
> 
> were sewn in place, but none I have seen do.  Would they have used 
> some kind of glue? 
> 
>   Also, does anyone know of a source for non-oval 8-10 mm half round 
> pearls (preferably glass) I can order from?  I'm having a terrible 
> time finding anything other than fresh water rice pearls and faux 
> plastic spherical beads.  
> 
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Half round pearls?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 19:50:29 -0800
Status: RO

 
>
>  Also, does anyone know of a source for non-oval 8-10 mm half round 
>pearls (preferably glass) I can order from?  I'm having a terrible 
>time finding anything other than fresh water rice pearls and faux 
>plastic spherical beads.  
>
Try this site:

rhinestoneguy.com

They have half round, or flat back, pearls.  They're plastic, but the ones
I bought look pretty good. They also might be able to find glass ones for
you, their website says they can find special requests.  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 23:50:29 -0600
Status: RO

You might want to try http://www.macdonaldfaber.com/ they are located in 
Toronto and the prices are in Canadian.  That is where I bought mine.  It 
isn't cheap but they have some different styles available.  Oh, and they 
call it corset cloth on the site.  You might want to try them...

Oh, and they also sell boning and millinery supplies...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:43 AM 3/13/2002 -0500, you wrote:

>$10-15 dollars a yard is a small price to pay when a corset takes so
>little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as heavy a coutil as
>I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.
>
>I do have a funny story about ising a plain twill for a corset.  I think
>it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
>works better if self-lined).
>
>A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
>unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
>what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
>body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk)rz
>**
>pulling on the diagonal.  If it had been self lined
>it would have been stabilized.  I wonder if extra boning would hav also
>solved the problem.  It was funny when she first put it on and before we
>figured out what was happening.

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for Margo (WAS: Period "Peasant Bodice")
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:00:55 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Margo,

Leading on from nothing in particular....

Did you ever finish the outfit you were making to review the 
Simplicity "Shakespeare in Love" pattern?  I know you put it aside 
when you started work on your pattern business, but did you ever 
get back to it?

Teddy


Teddy

Bibliographical Services
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London
N11 2NQ
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E-mail: teddy1@mdx.ac.uk
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 06:31:51 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Many Thanks to everyone for all your help in finding
this book .... when it arrives, I will post many happy
dances to you all
Regards
Carol

=====
....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....

"The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."

"The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde

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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:37:03 -0600
Status: RO

This is something I have always had issues with. And I was curious as 
to what others opinions were.

Does everyone think that female peasants during the late Renaissance 
era in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is 
simply people trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and standard 
RenFair, but in reality how many woman in the real working class level 
would have worn bodices that were stiff and tight?

In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists works, 
that I have seen, whenever I see working people in the pictures, they 
are usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves in the bustline 
area.  Granted, mostly these are European artists and paintings for 
the most part, but I just feel strongly that it would carry over to 
England also.  For examples of what I am talking about check out the 
art of the following  Aertsen, Beuckelaer, Bruegel.  I am sure there 
are many more, I just don't have time to find them.

Anyone have an opinion?
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:36:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net> wrote:
> Does everyone think that female peasants during the late
> Renaissance 
> era in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is 
> simply people trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and
> standard 
> RenFair, but in reality how many woman in the real working class
> level 
> would have worn bodices that were stiff and tight?

I think if they were ample-bosomed, they would have worn a tight
bodice for support. I am in the D+ category, and I like my bodices to
be SNUG, and not just because of the way it looks, but because it
provides the support I need. I could not STAND to work in a loose
bodice! Gotta keep those puppies strapped down real tight...


mirv




=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 14 11:51:00 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for Margo (WAS: Period "Peasant Bodice")
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:24:35 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:00 AM 03/14/2002 +0000, Teddy wrote:
>Hi Margo,
>
>Leading on from nothing in particular....
>
>Did you ever finish the outfit you were making to review the 
>Simplicity "Shakespeare in Love" pattern?  I know you put it aside 
>when you started work on your pattern business, but did you ever 
>get back to it?
>
No, I never did.  First I was too busy, and now...well, I'm still too busy,
but it also seems counterproductive to spend a lot of my time creating a
webpage to help people use that pattern when, in my humble opinion, there's
now a better option.  My patterns include all the construction details I
thought were so nifty about the SIL pattern, but they also have properly
cut bodices and a lot of other options as well.

If anyone else wants to do it, though, go ahead!

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 14 13:21:06 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:15:24 -0500
Status: RO

I've fitted the garments you're describing on larger ladies before, 
and I've found that you usually need an additional piece of boning at 
the sides under the arm to keep the sides from creeping and bunching -
- because the skirts which are attached are usually not heavy enough 
in weight to keep the sides from folding horizontally/bunching.  I 
suppose if your stiffening were fairly severe it would work in the 
same manner, but you would still probably have some creeping as even 
stiff interlinings will fold under any stress.  

Just my two-bits. =)

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:01:42 -0500
Status: RO

Starting at 1PM (east coast time) right now, TCM (Turner's movie channel)
will be
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out what time these movies are in your time zone go to
http://www.turnerclassicmovies.com/Schedule/Index

Penny Ladnier
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http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: "Brenna" <brenna@robewarriors.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:25:15 -0800
Status: RO

If the sides are bunching then possibly the bodice waist has been made too
long.

I know this has probably been pointed out but I'll do it again anyways -
the correct (and sensible) order of construction would be from the skin
out - first the chemise, then the skirt, _then_ the bodice.  I've seen too
many women try to figure out why their bodice won't fit right when they did
it _first_ without establishing the waistline via the skirt or the armseye
or neckline by way of the chemise.

As for extensive boning (or the lack thereof), my experience has shown that
even the most ample bust can be supported well (in the Elizabethan style) by
just four bones - two on each side.

The first pair runs straight down the front regardless of the closure
placement.

The second, if needed, runs from the bottom point up to about where the
armseye curves from horizontal to vertical on the front of the body.  You
have to "play" with that one to see just where it should be.  (If there is a
back closure, then a pair is needed there for closure support or _it_ will
scrunch.)

If it looks like it needs vertical boning on the sides, then the bodice is
too long.  Try shortening it.  If you don't want to cut it right away, just
turn it up and tug down on the foldline.  It should prove itself.

Been there; done that; tailoring has become one of my fortes.....  (I'll
make that #%^*% thing _fit_!) <g>

btw - the skirt fabric for a lower-class woman would be _heavy_, not light.
Those sheer float-y fabrics that so many use would be, in period,
prohibitively expensive for the lower-classes.  The time and effort to spin
and then weave with that fine a thread ..... And then to finish the seam so
it didn't fall apart ..... again, extra work.


ttyl,
Brenna

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:48:52 -0800
Status: RO


>Does everyone think that female peasants during the late Renaissance era 
>in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is simply people 
>trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and standard RenFair, but in 
>reality how many woman in the real working class level would have worn 
>bodices that were stiff and tight?

There's tight, and there's tight.  Tight enough to keep the anatomy from 
flopping (I call that 'snug'), yes.  Tight enough to constrict the 
diaphragm and affect breathing (I call that 'kinky'), no need to.

>In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists works, that 
>I have seen, whenever I see working people in the pictures, they are 
>usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves in the bustline 
>area.  Granted, mostly these are European artists and paintings for the 
>most part, but I just feel strongly that it would carry over to England 
>also.  For examples of what I am talking about check out the art of the 
>following  Aertsen, Beuckelaer, Bruegel.  I am sure there are many more, I 
>just don't have time to find them.

The bodices are tight enough to keep the anatomy behaving, as witness the 
smooth lines of said bodices.  But the flat front thing seems to have been 
upper class, and usually English/French/Spanish.  The Germans didn't do it 
unless they were wearing Spanish-inspired styles.

Kayta
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From: Liz / Cozit <cozit@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question? msgs
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:22:57 -0500
Status: RO

I have to admit to some creeping problems with my Irish dress.  The bodice is *not* too
long, if anything, it's about a quarter or half inch too short... my shape just wants to
make it creep up, and I find that I tug it down periodically... more often than I notice a
real need to.  Two bones down the center front, since that's where it's laced.  Next similar
such I'll be putting another on each side, most likely.

Laced snugly... far from tight, but enough that I won't have to keep "adjusting myself" more
than every few hours, without the additional boning and/or stiffening the nobles bodice has
it does make a noticable curve in front, somedays more than others... and I'm not
particularly large in front... well, other than the weight that's been creeping up on me.

A heavier skirt would help a bit... but not all that much... since I've attatched the
underskirt to the inside of the bodice on occasion as well, and the creeping has been no
less.

Still experimenting,
-Elisabeth

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 14 16:32:38 2002
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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question? msgs
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:27:31 -0800
Status: RO

Um, Liz .... if you're having to re-adjust at all, it's not fitting right.
It sounds too loose.

I've fitted bodices well enough for women who had to worry about "jiggle
factor" that even after dancing a jig, they didn't need to re-adjust
anything.

Bear in mind that when you go to fuss with your clothes
_when_you're_wearing_them_  that it frequently makes your shoulders and,
hence, bodice to rise causing it to _seem_ like the bodice is too short.

Try having someone else check (and tug and check) it.  Preferrably someone
who knows what they're doing.  <g>   It can make all the difference in the
world.....

later,
Brenna

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric source
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:24:55 -0600
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1CB6C.64EF5EC0
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Does anyone have a good online source for wool? I have silk and linen =
and cotton merchants in my bookmarks, but no one seems to have a very =
good selection of wools.


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of =
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1CB6C.64EF5EC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have a good online source =
for wool? I=20
have silk and linen and cotton merchants in my bookmarks, but no one =
seems to=20
have a very good selection of wools.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>**********************<BR>Rebecca =
Schmitt<BR>aka=20
Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of=20
Bristol,<BR>BRF FOF</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>So many books, so little =
time</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:lotsofteapots@charter.net">lotsofteapots@charter.net</A><B=
R>**********************<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1CB6C.64EF5EC0--

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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:38:56 -0600
Status: RO


 >There's tight, and there's tight.  Tight enough to keep the anatomy from
 >flopping (I call that 'snug'), yes.  Tight enough to constrict the
 >diaphragm and affect breathing (I call that 'kinky'), no need to.


 >>In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists works, that
 >>I have seen, whenever I see working people in the pictures, they are
 >>usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves in the bustline
 >>area.  Granted, mostly these are European artists and paintings for the
 >>most part, but I just feel strongly that it would carry over to England
 >>also.  For examples of what I am talking about check out the art of the
 >>following  Aertsen, Beuckelaer, Bruegel.  I am sure there are many more, I
 >>just don't have time to find them.


 >The bodices are tight enough to keep the anatomy behaving, as witness the
 >smooth lines of said bodices.  But the flat front thing seems to have been
 >upper class, and usually English/French/Spanish.  The Germans didn't do it
 >unless they were wearing Spanish-inspired styles.

 >Kayta

But if you look at Bruegels work, the bodices on the peasants aren't tight at all.
They don't waste a lot of fabric so they follow the form, but they are hardly
snug in many cases.  You can see areas where there are wrinkles and folds
in the fabric.

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 16:22:38 -0500
Status: RO

Taline
I give all makeup tests in Apr during exam week and they are short
answer tests (not multiple choice). I will have to see your Doctor's
certificate and you will have to arrange a test time with me closer to
early April
Kathy

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:59:54 -0800
Status: RO

Ah, and here am I trying to find a website host so I can go on-line with my
shop.  I have summer-weight wools in stock.

Rebecca,

Contact me off-line and tell me just what you're looking for.

Brenna Sharp
  brenna@robewarriors.com
B Sharp Fabrics
Portland OR
OR Bus. Lic. #065455-94


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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:07:23 -0800
Status: RO

What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
meter stick?

Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
call them?

In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
that true in countries that only use the metric system?

Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
copying patterns from clothes?

Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
or only a few?

Thanks for any enlightenment,

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web page!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 23:51:18 +0100
Status: RO



Lavolta Press wrote:

>
> In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
> English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
> that true in countries that only use the metric system?
>

Here in the Netherlands they only sell the metric ones.
I have one with also inches on it but it is is damaged.
I use a lot of patterns wich are in inches.
So I tried to find a new one.
But I havn't found one yet.


>
> Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
> of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
> me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
> copying patterns from clothes?

I can olny find pattern-drafting paper without lines ore dots on it.
I had paper with squares on it, they were 4 by 4 cm.

Greetings,
        Deredere

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 00:16:43 +0100
Status: RO

--=====================_6597927==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


>
>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
>English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
>that true in countries that only use the metric system?

i haven't seen any tools with inches on them in germany. i needed one for 
use with inch patterns, so i brought a double-sided ruler home from hong kong.

>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?

there's copying paper with a 1 cm grid. not dotted, but actual lines. i 
think it only seems small if you're not used to it.

>Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
>or only a few?

if you mean the english-speaking countries, i think most people are still 
rooted in the imperial system - whenever an englishperson talks of 
measurements to me, the imperial/metric gap between them and me is 
painfully noticeable. the continent is very firmly metric, of course.

ciao,
alexa


--=====================_6597927==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<blockquote type=cite cite><br>
<font size=3>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with
both<br>
English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).&nbsp;
Is<br>
that true in countries that only use the metric
system?</font></blockquote><br>
i haven't seen any tools with inches on them in germany. i needed one for
use with inch patterns, so i brought a double-sided ruler home from hong
kong. <br>
<br>
<font size=3><blockquote type=cite cite>Do they sell dotted
pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead<br>
of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid&nbsp; is used (1 cm seems small
to<br>
me)?  </font></blockquote><br>
there's copying paper with a 1 cm grid. not dotted, but actual lines. i
think it only seems small if you're not used to it. <br>
<br>
<font size=3><blockquote type=cite cite>Do most sewers in these countries
still understand the English system,<br>
or only a few?</blockquote><br>
if you mean the english-speaking countries, i think most people are still
rooted in the imperial system - whenever an englishperson talks of
measurements to me, the imperial/metric gap between them and me is
painfully noticeable. the continent is very firmly metric, of
course.<br>
<br>
ciao,<br>
alexa<br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_6597927==_.ALT--

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:00:19 +1300
Status: RO

> What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
> meter stick?

NZ is extremely comparable to Aus, except their sizes are one step more
generous than we are. Except we are now using their sizes...

I don't know specifically what you are refering to, we have long metal
rulers for metal and wood crafts, and in the sewing business we tend to just
use measuring tapes.
When we buy fabric, there is a metal ruler sunk into the table, and from the
customer side it looks like it has both inches and cms on it. It's about
1.5m long


> Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
> what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
> call them?

yes, a 30cm ruler, often it will have mm on the other side, but occasionally
you can still find rulers with cm on one edge and inches on the other. It's
approx the same length as a 12" ruler.

The shorter rulers are 15cm and as above.

They are just called rulers or short rulers. On the packet they are sold
according to the metric length.

> In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
> English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
> that true in countries that only use the metric system?

Um... increasingly difficult to find both inches and cms on rulers not just
used for sewing, but because we get so many items from countries that
primarily sell to the US we still get both units on many tools. Measuring
tapes nearly always have inches on one side and cms on the other.

> Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
> of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
> me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
> copying patterns from clothes?

I have a big cardboard cutting mat with 2.5cm grids. This is close to a 1"
grid but over a distance quite quite different. I haven't seen the gridded
interfacing stuff, which I am dying to use as it would make my pattern
transfer that much easier.

> Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
> or only a few?


Very well understood, and it depends on the age really. Though when younger
like myself you were genrally taught by an older generation that used the
empirical system. And of course Patterns of Fashion and tailoring books
primarily use the empirical system.

I have to tag on a quote here.
NOTE FOR YOUNG PEOPLE AND AMERICANS: One shilling = Five pee. It helps to
understand the antique finances of the Witchfinder army if you know the
original British monotary system:
Two farthings = One ha'penny. Two ha'penny's = One Penny. Three pennies = A
thruppeny bit. Two thrupences = A sixpense. Two sixpenses = a shilling, or a
Bob. Two bob = a florin. One florin and one sixpense = Half a crown. Four
half crowns = ten bob note. Two ten bon notes = One pound (or 240 pennies).
One pound and one shilling = One Guinea.
The British resisted decimalized currency for a long time because they
thought it was too complicated.

~Terry Pratchett, Good Omens (it feels more like Pterry than Neil Gaimen who
co wrote the novel)

michaela


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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:11:01 -0600
Status: RO

At 08:37 AM 3/14/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>This is something I have always had issues with. And I was curious as to 
>what others opinions were.
>
>Does everyone think that female peasants during the late Renaissance era 
>in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is simply people 
>trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and standard RenFair, but in 
>reality how many woman in the real working class level would have worn 
>bodices that were stiff and tight?
>
>In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists works, that 
>I have seen, whenever I see working people in the pictures, they are 
>usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves in the bustline 
>area.  Granted, mostly these are European artists and paintings for the 
>most part, but I just feel strongly that it would carry over to England 
>also.  For examples of what I am talking about check out the art of the 
>following  Aertsen, Beuckelaer, Bruegel.  I am sure there are many more, I 
>just don't have time to find them.
>
>Anyone have an opinion?
>--
>Linda Thompson

Yup, I certainly do. :  )  I personally have found no evidence for the 
lower orders wearing boned bodices...  If you look at sketches, etchings, 
prints, etc...  you can see more images of artisan or labouring class 
people.  In all the ones that come to mind, there are bust curves on the 
women, and wrinkles in the bodices.  It becomes quite readily apparent that 
it is pretty much only in portraiture (where the artist has to please the 
person who commissioned the painting) that you see perfectly smooth, 
wrinkle-free bodice fronts.  Besides, if you look at the Holbein drawings 
you can even find bust curves and wrinkles.  So, I think they were probably 
worn snug enough to give support but not too tight to interfere with 
movement or comfort.

Cheers,
Danielle

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:22:31 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

Actually, in Canada (or at least where I lived in Ontario) it was still 
called a yardstick.  : )  Most rulers available had inches on one side an 
centimeters on the other and were frequently either 12 or 18 inches 
long.  The switch to metric from Imperial seems to have happened in the 
later 1970s in Canada because I remember having to switch systems while I 
was in grade school so it's not as firmly entrenched as it might be in some 
other countries.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:07 PM 3/14/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
>meter stick?
>
>Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
>what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
>call them?
>
>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
>English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
>that true in countries that only use the metric system?
>
>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
>copying patterns from clothes?
>
>Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
>or only a few?
>
>Thanks for any enlightenment,
>
>Fran
>
>---------------------------------------------
>Visit our web page!
>Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 01:47:56
Status: RO

>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
>copying patterns from clothes?
>
"gridded interfacing type stuff" ? Where can I get some of this?

Mary/Katerine

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:07:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Jo-anns sells it, with the interfacing.


> >Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
> >of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
> >me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
> >copying patterns from clothes?
> >
> "gridded interfacing type stuff" ? Where can I get some of this?
> 
> Mary/Katerine
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world?s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
> http://www.hotmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Salon.com article on Victorian corsets
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 18:12:23 -0800
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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An interesting book review/opinion piece:

http://www.salon.com/sex/gallery/2002/03/01/corset/index.html

- Kendra


------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1C603.A16F1DE0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>An interesting book review/opinion=20
piece:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.salon.com/sex/gallery/2002/03/01/corset/index.html">ht=
tp://www.salon.com/sex/gallery/2002/03/01/corset/index.html</A></FONT></D=
IV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Kendra</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Question-Silk 'Shantung Chiffon'?
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:35:20 -0500
Status: RO

Has anyone ever heard of silk shantung chiffon?
There is a blouse made from this at the Max Studio web site.
I've never heard of such a fabric.
Think it's a mis-print?
Lisa

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 10:56:18 -0800
Status: RO

I have been invited by the Lace Museum in Sunnyvale, California, to give a
talk on my field of expertise (Friday, March 15). The topic of the
slideshow/lecture is "Metal Lace in Fashion: Past, present, future?" I will
discuss progress of precious metal lace throughout centuries of fashion.

For more information, please visit the Lace Museum's website at
http://www.thelacemuseum.org/Lenka.html

Lenka
---
Lenka Suchanek
Vancouver Canada
Silver Pin Studio: Art of Handmade Lace
Fine Wire Lace: Patterns & Supplies
http://www.silverpinstudio.com




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Subject: [h-cost] Book about Homespun
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 11:57:28 -0800
Status: RO

Dear Members,
I work for a company that provides technical services for university libraries
world wide and I'm briefly delurking to share information about a great book
that came through today. So for those of you that haven't seen it:   
"The Age of Homespun: Objects and Stories in the Creation of an American Myth"
by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich.  ISBN 0-679-44594-3
It is described as "Using objects that Americans have saved through the
centuries and stories they have passed along, as well as histories teased from
documents, Laurel Thatcher Ulrich chronicles the production of cloth  - and of
history - in early America".  
I haven't read it, but a quick look through the 11 chapters is promising. I
would have preferred that the photos be in color, but that's a small gripe
compared to what appears to be some interesting research. 

Ms. Ulrich won the Pulitzer Prize for History in 1991 for her wonderful 
telling of "A Midwife's Tale: The Life of Martha Ballard Based on Her Diary,
1785-1812". The PBS movie was quite well done also, mixing the story of
historians trying to decipher the spellings and meanings of the period and
presenting a dramatization of the events within.   

Have fun!   Shea Young in Portland, Oregon



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Subject: [h-cost] Ebay auction: Book on Bust adjustment method
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:38:45 -0500
Status: RO

Hey all -

Saw this when I was surfing, and I know there has been discussion on
adjusting patterns for multiple cup sizes before:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1712262871

-kel


Kelly A Rinne
http://www.costumedesign.net

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:53:16 -0700
Status: RO

No, I wish I did though....*huge sigh*....
I'd just fallen in love with gstreet fabrics when they shut down their
website.  Did manage to score some very nice brick-colored wool and some
camel-colored stuff, and was all ready to buy more.....*sniff, sniff*
--Sue

> Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a good online source for wool? I have silk and linen
> and cotton merchants in my bookmarks, but no one seems to have a very
> good selection of wools.
> 
> 
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> Bristol,
> BRF FOF
> 
> So many books, so little time
> 
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:55:02 -0700
Status: RO

Huh????
--sue

Kathy Cleaver wrote:
> 
> Taline
> I give all makeup tests in Apr during exam week and they are short
> answer tests (not multiple choice). I will have to see your Doctor's
> certificate and you will have to arrange a test time with me closer to
> early April
> Kathy
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:01:12 -0700
Status: RO

Dunno about that one...the only two things I have *ever* seen adequately
support my bust (I'm some sort of 56G, mumble, mumble) are my
Elizabethan corset (with rather more than four bones), and one of
Robin's gothic fitted gowns.  If I'm wearing another style (ItalianRen,
for instance, or one of the earlier styles involving some sort of
tee-tunic, or the lower-class wench stuff I wore for years before I
turned it into loaner garb for our SCA group) I pretty much *have* to
cheat and wear a bra.
I'm looking forward to trying some of the corded bodies and stays that
have been showing up recently.....
--Sue

Brenna wrote:
> 
> 
> As for extensive boning (or the lack thereof), my experience has shown that
> even the most ample bust can be supported well (in the Elizabethan style) by
> just four bones - two on each side.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Mar 15 01:06:59 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@sound.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Half round pearls?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 22:56:15 -0600
Status: RO

Kimberly,

Ornamental Resources (http://www.ornabead.com) has 8mm white pearl
cabachons in their glass stones section - $17.00 per gram. (no idea how
many are in a gram, though.)

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 09:56 PM 3/13/02 -0500, you wrote:

>   Also, does anyone know of a source for non-oval 8-10 mm half round
>pearls (preferably glass) I can order from?  I'm having a terrible
>time finding anything other than fresh water rice pearls and faux
>plastic spherical beads.
>
>Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Question-Silk 'Shantung Chiffon'?
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 01:33:41 EST
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In a message dated 3/14/2002 6:09:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, martyr@gti.net 
writes:


> Has anyone ever heard of silk shantung chiffon?
> There is a blouse made from this at the Max Studio web site.
> I've never heard of such a fabric.
> Think it's a mis-print?
> Lisa

It sounds impossible to me, but perhaps it's some sort of nubby weave into a 
chiffon?? If you find out, I'd love to know the procedure or see a scan of a 
sample.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"As in a theater, the eyes of men, 
after a well-graced actor leaves the stage, 
are idly bent on him that enters next, 
thinking his prattle to be tedious."
Richard II;  V, ii - W. Shakespeare

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Narrow" LANG="0">In a message dated 3/14/2002 6:09:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, martyr@gti.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Has anyone ever heard of silk shantung chiffon?<BR>
There is a blouse made from this at the Max Studio web site.<BR>
I've never heard of such a fabric.<BR>
Think it's a mis-print?<BR>
Lisa</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Narrow" LANG="0"><BR>
It sounds impossible to me, but perhaps it's some sort of nubby weave into a chiffon?? If you find out, I'd love to know the procedure or see a scan of a sample.<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes <BR>
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
<BR>
"As in a theater, the eyes of men, <BR>
after a well-graced actor leaves the stage, <BR>
are idly bent on him that enters next, <BR>
thinking his prattle to be tedious."<BR>
Richard II;&nbsp; V, ii - W. Shakespeare<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 02:26:08 -0500
Status: RO

Yesterday I went to Joanne's... it is no longer there!!!  I went to Fabric
Warehouse (a great warehouse for Hancock Fabrics).  It is no longer
there!!!!!!  Now this sounds a little suspicious.  I took Linda to her car
on the same street that both of these fabric stores were.  She had to pass
both of the shops to go home.  Did she stop and buy all the fabric at these
shops, then they had to close up their businesses??????????  Is Linda hiding
all the fabric that Richmond had?????

Time to take a trip to VA Beach to see what IS in her sewing room.  No one
invite Linda to your town until I figure this one out.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 18:32:18 +1100
Status: RO

At 02:07  2002-03-14 -0800, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
wrote:

>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
>copying patterns from clothes?

I'm in Australia, and I have a stack of pattern drafting paper with 1cm 
grid on it (bold lines every 5cm), made by Burda, which most sewing shops 
sell. I've never seen gridded interfacing, however.

  - Sonia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Question-Silk 'Shantung Chiffon'?
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 02:48:11 -0500
Status: RO

No, I think it's a just misprint. No one has heard of it.
Of course I would let everyone in on it if I were to find it.
I wrote to the company but no response yet.
Lisa

>It sounds impossible to me, but perhaps it's some sort of nubby weave
into >a chiffon?? If you find out, I'd love to know the procedure or see
a scan of a >sample.

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:30:17 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Answers for England:
> What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
> meter stick?
We still have yard sticks but in addition there is also a meter rule.

>Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
> what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
> call them?
You can still buy 6" and 12" rulers in any stationary shop in the UK.  They now come with
centimeters on the other side so you get 6"/15cm and 12"/30cm rulers.

It is worth noting that this might change soon as the EU wants all member countries to move to an
entirely metric system (clothing measurements included).

> Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
> of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
> me)?  
I have seen 1/2in grid for pattern drafting but they are becoming rarer and they are moving more
towards the metric grids.

> How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
> copying patterns from clothes?
Never seen this!

> Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
> or only a few?
Depends what you mean by the English system.  Over here patterns are still printed with both
metric and imperial measurements.  Although most sewers I know, myself included, use imperial
despite being taught metric at school!

Rachel

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:33:49 +0100
Status: RO

Hi
In Denmark they use a meterstick. It is only 50 cm. long 1/2 a meter long. But
they also use a centimeter band 1 meter long sitting on the table where they cut
the fabrics.
I use a centimeter band or tape?
I dont have any problems with the differences in meassures. I use an Ennascope (
picture devise) that blows up the pictures on the wall. I use this when i want
to copy patterns from books. I can use my centimeter tape here to get the size i
want.
The only advantage we have with the meter system is that we gets more fabric
than you do, because you only use yards ha ha...........

Bjarne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:42:45 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
Yes i read your story about shopping. I am glad that it wasnt me that visited
Penny.
Mostly because i have spend a fortune lately buying silk embroidery threads. I
think that Hedgehog handworks have sold out all their silk chenille threads
because of me and i have ordered a lot of silk floss two. Then i visited Silk
Anettes shop at Farum in Denmark, and i emptyed all her hand dyed silkthreads
two.....
I am in a totally freak embroidery koholic mood these days. i have a project in
my head i want to do when i have finished my suit. And in an hour or so, you
will find me again at the library at the Museum of Decorative Arts, drawing old
embroidery motifs.................What is this going to end with?

Bjarne

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Yesterday I went to Joanne's... it is no longer there!!!  I went to Fabric
> Warehouse (a great warehouse for Hancock Fabrics).  It is no longer
> there!!!!!!  Now this sounds a little suspicious.  I took Linda to her car
> on the same street that both of these fabric stores were.  She had to pass
> both of the shops to go home.  Did she stop and buy all the fabric at these
> shops, then they had to close up their businesses??????????  Is Linda hiding
> all the fabric that Richmond had?????
>
> Time to take a trip to VA Beach to see what IS in her sewing room.  No one
> invite Linda to your town until I figure this one out.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:49:14 +0000
Status: RO


>>> fran@lavoltapress.com 03/14/02 10:07pm >>>
>What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
>meter stick?

I've mostly heard the term "yardstick" used in a metaphorical sense,
rather than to describe an actual ruler.

>Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
>what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
>call them?

12 and 6-inch rulers with cms. on the other edge are still in common
use; I don't know what the rulers currently in the shops are like.

>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
>English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
>that true in countries that only use the metric system?

>Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English
system,
>or only a few?

The UK is less completely metricated than many Americans seem to think.
We've used the metric system for 30-odd years, but it's only in the past
few that shops have actually been prohibited from using imperial weights
and measures - until then, fabric was often still sold by the yard.

Most of those under 50 will have been taught to measure in metric at
school, but many still think in imperial - "He's six feet tall"  "I want
to lose five pounds"  (people's weight is expressed in stones = 14 lb.)
And, for the time being at least, we still measure distance in miles and
beer (in pubs) in pints!



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:24:13 +0000 (GMT)
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> This is something I have always had issues with. And I was curious as
> to what others opinions were.
> 
> Does everyone think that female peasants during the late Renaissance
> era in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is
> simply people trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and standard
> RenFair, but in reality how many woman in the real working class level
> would have worn bodices that were stiff and tight?
> 
> In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists
> works, that I have seen, whenever I see working people in the
> pictures, they are usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves
> in the bustline area. Granted, mostly these are European artists
> and paintings for the most part, but I just feel strongly that it
> would carry over to England also. For examples of what I am talking
> about check out the art of the following Aertsen, Beuckelaer,
> Bruegel.  I am sure there are many more, I just don't have time to
> find them. 
> 
> Anyone have an opinion?

I have an opinion, but that's all it is really - not backed up by any 
form of research....

They may have, and probably did (what class of people is 
*whithout* the subset that will try their best to emulate their "social 
superiors" to whatever extent their recources enable them?) wear 
*tight* bodices, but I suspect for the most part it wasn't *stiff*.  If 
you were to make two bodices form the same person, from the 
same cloth and cut to the same pattern but heavily stiffened and 
boned one and only interlined one with a sturdy cloth, the amount of 
curves and "natural" body shape allowed by them would be 
drastically different.... for that matter an unboned/unstiuffened 
bodice worn over a high-fashion corset will give a different shape 
from the same bodice worn without the corset underneath.

OK enough waffle from me. 

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for Margo
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:32:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >Did you ever finish the outfit you were making to review the 
> >Simplicity "Shakespeare in Love" pattern?  I know you put it aside
> >when you started work on your pattern business, but did you ever get
> >back to it?
> >
> No, I never did.  First I was too busy, and now...well, I'm still too
> busy, but it also seems counterproductive to spend a lot of my time
> creating a webpage to help people use that pattern when, in my humble
> opinion, there's now a better option.  My patterns include all the
> construction details I thought were so nifty about the SIL pattern,
> but they also have properly cut bodices and a lot of other options as
> well.

Well, if you ever get around to making the gown you were planning 
but using *your* patterns you'll have to let us know.. the fabric and 
colour cominations sounded lovely...  fawn and green with gold 
trim, I believe?

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:57:44 GMT
Status: RO

Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote :

> Answers for England:
> It is worth noting that this might change soon as the EU wants all member
> countries to move to an
> entirely metric system (clothing measurements included).

We will then tell the EU what they can do with their entirely metric system. Insisting on having measurements in cm *as well* I can understand, but making measurements in inches illegal is completely silly.

> Although most sewers I know, myself included,
> use imperial
> despite being taught metric at school!

Me too. Well, I was taught both at school, but the imperial system has more useful size units for most things.




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On Thu, 14 March 2002, webmaster@marquise.de wrote:


 i haven't seen any tools with inches on them in germany. i needed one for use with inch patterns, so i brought a double-sided ruler home from hong
> kong. 


I had a hard time looking for one in Finland. I finally found one -- yes, made in China.

Rulers here seem to be either 20 or 30 cm, and a "yardstick" is always 50 cm, so you need to measure twice for every metre of fabric. And the grid is 1 cm, with thicker lines in every 5 cm 
i think.

I'm used to the imperial system too, but I think only because i've been living in Korea, where they use it for measuring fabric, although they use metric system for basically everything else. In the beginning I always bought too little fabric, especially as they are not as wide as here (here 150 cm is the standard for all but very special 6 expensive fabrics).

Riina in Finland


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:20:30 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> We will then tell the EU what they can do with their entirely metric system. Insisting on having
> measurements in cm *as well* I can understand, but making measurements in inches illegal is
> completely silly.
> 
>

Well it didn't stop them with the weights and measures!  I still cook in pounds and ounces no
matter what brussels tells me otherwise.  Come to that I still ask for half a pound of meat at the
deli counter!

Rachel

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:47:40 -0500
Status: RO



When I went to elementary school, in the 1970s, we had to learn the metric
system because "everything is going to change over in a few years." Same
thing in middle school. Same thing in high school. This year will be my
twentieth high school reunion, and the metric system here (US) is still
pretty much used only for technical things. Everyday stuff is the old way. I
wonder why that is?

Gail Finke
Who is 5ft. 2in.



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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 07:26:22 -0700
Status: RO

I remember that, too <g>
I think, maybe, the Powers That Be gave up....there may have been just
too much resistance to it.  And converting some stuff here in the U.S.
would have been a fiendish pain in the @ss. Acres and quarter-sections
and sections make a lot of sense based on feet and miles, but metric???
yee-gods.
--Sue, who has a job dealing with both Canadian and American clients, so
it gets interesting with the mileage measurements sometimes <g>

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> 
> When I went to elementary school, in the 1970s, we had to learn the metric
> system because "everything is going to change over in a few years." Same
> thing in middle school. Same thing in high school. This year will be my
> twentieth high school reunion, and the metric system here (US) is still
> pretty much used only for technical things. Everyday stuff is the old way. I
> wonder why that is?
> 
> Gail Finke
> Who is 5ft. 2in.
>
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:40:40 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 15 Mar 2002, Leif Drews wrote:

> I am in a totally freak embroidery koholic mood these days. i have a project in
> my head i want to do when i have finished my suit. And in an hour or so, you
> will find me again at the library at the Museum of Decorative Arts, drawing old
> embroidery motifs.................What is this going to end with?

It will end with more beautiful work for us to sigh over ... and more
ideas from you for more beautiful work to keep you busy!

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Gridded pattern material (was dumb math)
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:31:46 -0600
Status: RO


> "gridded interfacing type stuff" ? Where can I get some of this?
>
> Mary/Katerine
In the states its on the same shelf as the interfacing.  I bought mine at
Joann's...a whole bolt when they had one of their 50% off interfacing sale.
It is very handy when re-styling patterns.  I use it to tape on a basic
bodice pattern that you know fits to the grided material and re-draw based
on a miniature gridded drawing such as you find in Janet Arnold's books.

Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX

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Date: 15 Mar 2002 07:20:14 -0800
Status: RO

On Fri, 15 March 2002, Jane Williams wrote:


> 
> Me too. Well, I was taught both at school, but the imperial system has more useful size units for most things.

What do you mean by more useful? I managed the first twenty-something years without the imperial units and they didn't make my life any easier when I had to start using them... It's what you're used to using in everyday life, not what you've been taught to use at school. This is not to say that I think the new EU regulations are anything but silly, just wondering
how imperial system could be more useful. For me, the thing I like in the metric system is that it's always very easy to calculate how much something changes when you change something else. The imperial system isn't very logical, if you're not used to it.


Riina
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns--Butterrick too
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:58:44 -0600
Status: RO

Hello All,

I went out yesterday and bought the new Butterick Victorian patterns. I
was wondering about the style of some of the elements given in both the
shirtwaist and skirt patterns. Later last night I was looking thru one of
my Victorian fashion books (Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from "La
Mode Illustree" Dover) and what should I spy on page #137 (1897) but a
selection of sleeves and skirts which contains two of the sleeves
designs, the lace collar, and one of the skirts! On the previous page
(#136) there is a small illustration of another of the skirts! I thought
that the pattern looked pretty good, but this is a much higher level of
authenticity than I was expecting. Now I don't know if the blouse body
pattern they have these items attached to are equally authentic, it looks
like a standard modern blouse body to me, but maybe others on the list
with more detailed knowledge of the period can address that issue. 



Karen
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:09:25 -0500
Status: RO

I grew up in the US, and moved to Canada only a few years ago, so the 
differences are quite fresh in my mind from the US perspective...

Yes, in Canada they have yardsticks and metersticks (usually a 
meterstick has the standard yard measurements as well).  They do sell 
12" and 6" rulers and most people here still don't refer to things in 
terms of meters (for fabric and construction anyway).  If you asked 
the average person how tall thier ceilings were, they would give it 
to you in feet, and how wide thier property is in yards, not in 
metric.  I would say that most here still don't really know the 
metric system as well as the empirial system -- if you asked someone 
how large a centimeter is here they often would show you with thier 
fingers something a little larger than a 1/2" *lol*

While the signposts all relate distance and speed limits in terms of 
kilometers, people would still say "She lives about 5 miles from 
here..."  I have only heard someone use Km to measure distance a hand 
full of times in 2 years. Obviously 30 or so years hasn't been enough 
to convertCanadians completely to the metric system (probably because 
we are so closely connected to the US -- geographically and 
economically)

Some places that sell fabric here price it by the meter, though have 
the per/yard price there as well.  Then again, some places still ONLY 
sell by the yard.  

As for drafting paper (for any purpose), I can only find it graded by 
the inch and increments of inches.  (Which makes it a REAL pain to 
convert UK pattern drafting books onto it! *lol*).

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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: metric vs. Imperial
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:21:37 -0500
Status: RO

And in medicine - why is it that everything is metric, including baby's
birth weights, except height and weight in adults and older children? I've
been using metric at work for almost 20 years except for height and weight
( I usually work with adults), but use imperial at home and for sewing?  I
guess we are somewhat intermixed here in the US.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 9:26 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: metric vs. Imperial


I remember that, too <g>
I think, maybe, the Powers That Be gave up....there may have been just
too much resistance to it.  And converting some stuff here in the U.S.
would have been a fiendish pain in the @ss. Acres and quarter-sections
and sections make a lot of sense based on feet and miles, but metric???
yee-gods.
--Sue, who has a job dealing with both Canadian and American clients, so
it gets interesting with the mileage measurements sometimes <g>

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>
> When I went to elementary school, in the 1970s, we had to learn the metric
> system because "everything is going to change over in a few years." Same
> thing in middle school. Same thing in high school. This year will be my
> twentieth high school reunion, and the metric system here (US) is still
> pretty much used only for technical things. Everyday stuff is the old way.
I
> wonder why that is?
>
> Gail Finke
> Who is 5ft. 2in.
>
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit (was Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:27:03 -0700
Status: RO

Thank you for pointing this out!  I just ordered my copy of the
catalogue.  It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the sp) college
in Massachusetts from Michigan.


**>one of the Bronzino portraits of Eleanor of Toledo.
**
**For those in the South-eastern Michigan area, there is 
**currently an exhibit 
**at the University of Michigan Art Museum on "Women who Ruled: Queens, 
**Goddesses, Amazons, 1500-1650."   It will be in Ann Arbor 
**until early May, 
**and then it will travel.
**
**http://www.umich.edu/~umma/women/
**
**There's the aforementioned Eleanora of Toledo portrait there, 
**an Elizabeth I 
**by George Gower, a Venus by Guido Reni, and a Judith by 
**Carravaggio, among 
**lots of others.  Lots of etchings, especially.
**
**The exhibit features women who were politically powerful 
**(Elizabeth, a 
**couple of the d'Medicis, Eleanora of Toledo, etc), as well as 
**other women 
**who were powerful and made an impact-- Joan of Arc, Judith, 
**Amazons, Helen 
**of Troy, Eve, etc -- and the way they portrayed in the 
**15th-16th centuries.
**
**I had a great time yesterday afternoon, having gone in as soon as the 
**exhibit opened and then had to be kicked out when the museum closed.
**
**Parsla
**
**
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 17:48:24 -0000
Status: RO

On 15 Mar 2002 at 7:20, riina vuokko wrote:

> On Fri, 15 March 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> > Me too. Well, I was taught both at school, but the imperial system has more useful size units for most things.
> 
> What do you mean by more useful?

Not so much with length, but with weights. The ounce is a useful quantity when cooking: 
the gram is not. I might use a pound of one ingredient: I'm unlikely to use a kilo in home 
cooking.

Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and there's no metric 
thing of about that size.

Oh, and the decimal system has one real problem: dividing by three. A third of a yard is 
a foot: a third of a foot is four inches. A third of a metre is 33.3-recurring centimetres?
 No, give me base-12 any time. 


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From: "C.A.Critchell" <marmaeve@aros.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 01:07:53 -0700
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Hello,

I was given referance to this list by Drea Leed and it has taken me some =
time to be able to make use of it.=20

In the west there is a SCA based competition called the "Golden Swan" =
for compleatness of Persona. I would like to enter, but knowing that the =
standards are as high as those of the "Tudor Guild" and as demanding as =
an Oxford Final examination, I wish to be as ready as possible.

On Drea's incredible site "the Elizabethan Costume Homepage" she goes in =
to wonderful detail about the Effigy corset. In that article she =
mentions drawers or underwear but beyond the citations mentioned for the =
corset she didn't have any for the drawers. I am looking for more =
information on Elizabethan Underwear, working on the Garb section of the =
Golden Swan from the inside out.

If there is anyone who can direct me towards any referant, I would =
appriecate it.

Respectfully,
C.A.Critchell
(If there are any errors of text or irritating passages, I hope you will =
excuse them. I'm Dyslexic and don't always put things across correctly.)



------=_NextPart_000_0233_01C1CBBD.D5D443C0
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I was given referance to this list =
by Drea Leed=20
and it has taken me some time to be able to make use of it. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>In the west there is a SCA based =
competition=20
called the &quot;Golden Swan&quot; for compleatness of Persona. I would =
like to=20
enter, but knowing that the standards are as high as those of the =
&quot;Tudor=20
Guild&quot; and as demanding as an Oxford Final examination, I wish to =
be as=20
ready as possible.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>On Drea's incredible site &quot;the =
Elizabethan=20
Costume Homepage&quot; she goes in to wonderful detail about the Effigy =
corset.=20
In that article she mentions drawers or underwear but beyond the =
citations=20
mentioned for the corset she didn't have any for the drawers. I am =
looking for=20
more information on Elizabethan Underwear, working on the Garb section =
of the=20
Golden Swan from the inside out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>If there is anyone who can direct me =
towards any=20
referant, I would appriecate it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Respectfully,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>C.A.Critchell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>(If there are any errors of text or =
irritating=20
passages, I hope you will excuse them. I'm Dyslexic and don't always put =
things=20
across correctly.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0233_01C1CBBD.D5D443C0--

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Subject: [h-cost] Welsh Lady 1100
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 06:47:13 -0800
Status: RO

Greetings!
    I am trying to find information on costuming a lady from east Wales from
around 1100AD.  Heather Rose Jones has been recommended as a resourse but I
have no contact information.  If anyone could help with either the costume
or locating Heather I'd be very appreciative.
Gratefully,
Anne Howe
<nesnxtc@earthlink.net>

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:50:00 -0500
Status: RO

It's a conspiracy, but not by me.  One of our Joann's closed recently
too, and they did it very quietly and without much notice.  I assume
they simply sent their stock over to the other stores and never had a
sale or anything. We used to have 3 Joann's evenly distributed around
the city, now we have 2 at opposite ends of town.

What I don't understand is why?  Every time I went into that store, I
always had to wait in a line, sometimes a short one, sometimes really
long. There was never a lack of traffic, and there certainly wasn't any
real competition close by. It will certainly be missed in that
neighborhood.

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 Penny Ladnier
 
Yesterday I went to Joanne's... it is no longer there!!!  I went to
Fabric
Warehouse (a great warehouse for Hancock Fabrics).  It is no longer
there!!!!!!  


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 question) weddingpictures
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:27:35 -0500
Status: RO

>Thank you for pointing this out!  I just ordered my copy of the
>catalogue.  It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the sp) college
>in Massachusetts from Michigan.


you must mean either LESLEY College (not my first guess) or
WELLESLEY College -- more likely...

Sheila B

Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net

Editor, Boston Early Music News
Deadline March. 28 for April 15  issue
   for events April 15-May 31, 2002
 http://www.earlymusicboston.com
    /bemn   for CALENDAR
    /Pavane  for Pavane Renaissance Dance Ensemble
    /brs/brs/  for Boston Recorder Society

29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366




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From: "Ulrika A. O'Brien" <uaobrien@uci.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:36:29 -0800
Status: RO

At 09:48 AM 3/15/2002, Jane Williams wrote:
>Not so much with length, but with weights. The ounce is a useful quantity 
>when cooking:
>the gram is not. I might use a pound of one ingredient: I'm unlikely to 
>use a kilo in home cooking.

But, at least in Sweden, it's common to use an intermediate unit:
the hectogram: 100 grams, which is a perfectly useful and convenient
size.  I think the claim of superior usefulness for Imperial measures
is just nonsensical, and a matter of what you're used to.


>Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and 
>there's no metric thing of about that size.


Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.




  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:16:03 +0100
Status: RO

In Norway, I'd say that hardly anyone uses imperial measurements; most
people don't know that an inch is about 2.54 cm, for example, or that
there are twelve inches in a foot. We learn that in school and promptly
forget it. :) There's also the archaic Norwegian measurement system, but
to be honest I don't know it very well, and have no idea how it
corresponds to the imperial system - if at all. "Tomme" should equal an
inch, and carpenters and such use something called a "tommestokk" -
literally, inch stick - which are hinged flat sticks that can fold out
to 2 meters long and fold down to about 30 cm. Oddly enough, the inch
sticks are often also only marked with centimeters - or maybe they have
inches as well. I've misplaced mine so I can't check.

I've only occasionally been able to find measuring tape with inches as
well as centimeters - most measuring tapes have centimeters on both
sides, with all the millimeters marked. Some have no extra markings on
ome side and stronger lines every 10 cm on the reverse side. When we buy
fabric there's usually a ruler sunk into the desk, but meter sticks and
half-meter sticks are also fairly widely used. Gridded drafting paper
for patterns I've never seen, but then I haven't looked either. Now I
want it though!

Norwegians are so used to the metric system that using anything else
seems very strange and counterintuitive. Please note, though, that I
have no formal sewing education, and that there may be professional
practices that I don't know about.


Ingrid
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit (was Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:48:10 -0700
Status: RO

Yes, you are correct!  (now calmed down enough to see she spelled "too"
wrong also!)

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of sheilabb@earthlink.net
**Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 11:28 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit (was Re: [h-cost] 
**(Fabric question) weddingpictures
**
**
**>Thank you for pointing this out!  I just ordered my copy of the 
**>catalogue.  It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the 
**sp) college 
**>in Massachusetts from Michigan.
**
**
**you must mean either LESLEY College (not my first guess) or 
**WELLESLEY College -- more likely...
**
**Sheila B
**
**Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net
**
**Editor, Boston Early Music News
**Deadline March. 28 for April 15  issue
**   for events April 15-May 31, 2002  http://www.earlymusicboston.com
**    /bemn   for CALENDAR
**    /Pavane  for Pavane Renaissance Dance Ensemble
**    /brs/brs/  for Boston Recorder Society
**
**29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
**VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366
**
**
**
**
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:56:21 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

>It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the sp)
>college in Massachusetts from Michigan.


My Lady, could you tell me where you found the list of
where the exhibit is going?  I looked through the site
to see how close it would get to D.C. and couldn't
find the information anywhere.

Thanks,

Orlaith


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Subject: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:52:48 -0700
Status: RO

Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:50:20 -0800
Status: RO

At 01:07 AM 03/15/2002 -0700, C.A.Critchell wrote:
>she goes in to wonderful detail about the Effigy corset.  In that article
>she mentions drawers or underwear but beyond the citations  mentioned for
>the corset she didn't have any for the drawers. 

I heard Jean Hunnisett lecture last year, and during her lecture she showed
a slide of the Effigy in its undies.  She's of the opinion that the drawers
were not period, but were added, probably when the effigy was redressed
during the 18th century, to hold padding in place or to provide a surface
to pin to. (the Effigy body is made of wood). 

I tend to agree with her.  From the photo they looked like puffy  shorts
with a drawstring around the top and some sort of gathering at the leg
openings, I couldn't see what.  The legs were quite short, to the upper
thigh.  They were plain fabric with no decoration.  The most telling part
was that they quite obviously did not fit the effigy, being way too short
in the crotch, with the drawstring "waist" sitting about where a pair of
modern bikinis would, and with the fabric at the crotch area strained and
pulling. They would have been quite uncomfortable on a human body, as well
as precarious.  

As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that Elizabethan women did not
wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so far, no one's proved
they did. 

Margo 
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:26:45 -0800
Status: RO

Someday I want to make a wardrobe and do a riverboat tour-y kind of thing 
fully in costume the whole trip.  I also fell in love with the idea of doing 
a European Castle tour in full garb.  Most of the time I just go to dinner 
or shopping in misc. pieces of my costumes.  Whatever is clean works for me. 
  ;}

Jennifer

PS.  I'm getting my web page back up slowly.  If you want to check it out go 
to http://www.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi   It will take a while to get 
all the glitches out, but I'm back online and ready for sewing.


>From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
>Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:52:48 -0700
>
>Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
>to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
>(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume







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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:40:06 -0500
Status: RO

--=====================_23402629==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 12:05 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
>to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
>(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?

*sheepish grin, raising hand*  Heck yes?  It's rather funny, actually... 
the local hack stable lets me use their horses in my photo shoots whenever 
I want.. they're pretty cool about the whole thing since I no longer have 
horses of my own *sigh*.  There's a black Percheron/Belgian mare there that 
I periodically drape in caparisons and ride in full kit on, so anybody on a 
guided trail ride gets a huge start when they see a fully-garbed medieval 
personage pounding through the woods *grin*.  Heck they even let me bring 
my own weaponry and ride with it.  Wonder if they'd consider selling that 
mare... hmmm.....


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_23402629==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 12:05 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Okay now I know this is really
silly, but I just thought it might be fun<br>
to ask.&nbsp; Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their
costumes<br>
(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?&nbsp; You know, like
riding<br>
down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?</blockquote><br>
*sheepish grin, raising hand*&nbsp; Heck yes?&nbsp; It's rather funny,
actually... the local hack stable lets me use their horses in my photo
shoots whenever I want.. they're pretty cool about the whole thing since
I no longer have horses of my own *sigh*.&nbsp; There's a black
Percheron/Belgian mare there that I periodically drape in caparisons and
ride in full kit on, so anybody on a guided trail ride gets a huge start
when they see a fully-garbed medieval personage pounding through the
woods *grin*.&nbsp; Heck they even let me bring my own weaponry and ride
with it.&nbsp; Wonder if they'd consider selling that mare...
hmmm.....<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</a><a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">html<br>
</a><font size=4>Gallery:
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_23402629==_.ALT--

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit-(Where it is going from Michicgan)
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:43:55 -0700
Status: RO

I talked to someone in the Museum store when I was ordering the exhibit
catalogue.  I also asked for the curator's (Ann Dixon) email to confirm
the schedule.  I will post it as soon as I hear back from her.

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Nelson Beth
**Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 11:56 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: [h-cost] RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit
**
**
**>It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the sp)
**>college in Massachusetts from Michigan.
**
**
**My Lady, could you tell me where you found the list of
**where the exhibit is going?  I looked through the site
**to see how close it would get to D.C. and couldn't
**find the information anywhere.
**
**Thanks,
**
**Orlaith
**
**
**__________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Mar 15 16:48:21 2002
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:35:45 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Well, I sometimes think, since I spend most of my
waking hours at the office, that I would like to turn
my office into a time-travel portal.  I would do as
much "Medieval-esque" decorating as I could get away
with and wear my comfy gunnas & T-tunics.  Just a
fantasy, of course -- I'd never be allowed to do it.

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

Another fantasy -- I get the same salary I get for
admin. assistant work to just stroll around campus in
garb and play my harp.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:00:02 -0800
Status: RO

> >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
> >there's no metric thing of about that size.
>
> Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.

Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
dimensions...  :)

Dan

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 15:02:02 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

I've always wanted to learn to ride side-saddle so I can wear a Regency 
riding habit and go for a gallop in Hyde park... : )

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:52 AM 3/15/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
>to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
>(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?




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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:03:31 -0700
Status: RO

**I've always wanted to learn to ride side-saddle so I can wear ...Oh me
too.

You guys make me ashamed of myself.  I want to wear a mask and walk the
streets like Queen Margo!!!  Blush-yeah right!  ;} (Evil grin)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:23:01 -0800
Status: RO

At 01:00 PM 3/15/2002, you wrote:
> > >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
> > >there's no metric thing of about that size.
> >
> > Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> > perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
>
>Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
>dimensions...  :)

Depends on the size of your feet!  I know men who have foot-long
feet, but lots of women might well be no closer to a foot than
a decimeter.




  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 15:32:52 -0600
Status: RO

At 02:03 PM 3/15/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>**I've always wanted to learn to ride side-saddle so I can wear ...Oh me
>too.
>
>You guys make me ashamed of myself.  I want to wear a mask and walk the
>streets like Queen Margo!!!  Blush-yeah right!  ;} (Evil grin)

LOL!  That would be a lot of fun too... <G>

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:35:04 -0800
Status: RO


>As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that Elizabethan women did not
>wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so far, no one's proved
>they did.

Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so at 
least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:38:14 -0800
Status: RO


>Whatever is clean works for me.  ;}

Interesting - nothing I fantasize about doing, in historical costume, gets 
better than an 'R' rating.

Kayta
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Welsh Lady 1100
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:21:31 -0800
Status: RO

At 6:47 AM -0800 3/15/02, Anne Howe wrote:
>Greetings!
>     I am trying to find information on costuming a lady from east Wales from
>around 1100AD.  Heather Rose Jones has been recommended as a resourse but I
>have no contact information.  If anyone could help with either the costume
>or locating Heather I'd be very appreciative.

You rang?

I don't know how much immediately practical use I'm going to be, 
though.  My short answer is: "Read my booklet 'Medieval Welsh 
Clothing to 1300' ... if you can track down a copy."  It's a 
compilation and analysis of all the information I could find at the 
time on the topic.  Unfortunately there are only a very few people 
who sell it for me, and I've sworn off doing my own retailing until 
the dissertation is finished.  The long answer is contained in the 
booklet itself.  The medium-length answer boils down to something 
like "they seem to have been wearing clothing not vastly different 
from what other people in the northwestern corner of Europe were 
wearing, with a slight predilection for rectangular rather than 
rounded cloaks, and quite probably showing an overall lower average 
standard of living than some of their neighbors.

The main problem is that there isn't a lot of available data -- 
little to nothing in the way of archaeological material, extremely 
little surviving visual art reflecting native styles, written 
descriptions that are either directly fictional (the romances) or 
lump together a hodge-podge of periods (legal texts) or are the 
observations of outsiders with a political agenda (Giraldus 
Cambrensis).  There's a lot of sifting, filtering, and extrapolating 
to do, and it still comes down to "not vastly different from their 
neighbors".

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Welsh Lady 1100
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:21:31 -0800
Status: RO

At 6:47 AM -0800 3/15/02, Anne Howe wrote:
>Greetings!
>     I am trying to find information on costuming a lady from east Wales from
>around 1100AD.  Heather Rose Jones has been recommended as a resourse but I
>have no contact information.  If anyone could help with either the costume
>or locating Heather I'd be very appreciative.

You rang?

I don't know how much immediately practical use I'm going to be, 
though.  My short answer is: "Read my booklet 'Medieval Welsh 
Clothing to 1300' ... if you can track down a copy."  It's a 
compilation and analysis of all the information I could find at the 
time on the topic.  Unfortunately there are only a very few people 
who sell it for me, and I've sworn off doing my own retailing until 
the dissertation is finished.  The long answer is contained in the 
booklet itself.  The medium-length answer boils down to something 
like "they seem to have been wearing clothing not vastly different 
from what other people in the northwestern corner of Europe were 
wearing, with a slight predilection for rectangular rather than 
rounded cloaks, and quite probably showing an overall lower average 
standard of living than some of their neighbors.

The main problem is that there isn't a lot of available data -- 
little to nothing in the way of archaeological material, extremely 
little surviving visual art reflecting native styles, written 
descriptions that are either directly fictional (the romances) or 
lump together a hodge-podge of periods (legal texts) or are the 
observations of outsiders with a political agenda (Giraldus 
Cambrensis).  There's a lot of sifting, filtering, and extrapolating 
to do, and it still comes down to "not vastly different from their 
neighbors".

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:42:53 -0800
Status: RO

At 02:35 PM 03/15/2002 -0800, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>
>>As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that Elizabethan women did not
>>wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so far, no one's proved
>>they did.
>
>Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so at 
>least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.

Where can I find these inventories?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:18:22 -0800
Status: RO



"Ulrika A. O'Brien" wrote:

> At 01:00 PM 3/15/2002, you wrote:
> > > >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
> > > >there's no metric thing of about that size.
> > >
> > > Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> > > perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
> >
> >Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
> >dimensions...  :)
>
> Depends on the size of your feet!  I know men who have foot-long
> feet, but lots of women might well be no closer to a foot than
> a decimeter.
>
>

True - my feet are 8" long at best, but my handspan is almost exactly 20cm
which is very handy (pun intended) :-P
Claire


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Subject: [h-cost] Curators Response to:Women who Ruled art exhibit-(Where it is going from Michicgan)
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:07:35 -0700
Status: RO

-----Original Message-----
From: Annette Dixon [mailto:adixon@umich.edu] 
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 3:57 PM
To: saragrace@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Women Who Ruled-Exhibit in other cities scheduled?


Hello,
The exhibition will be at the Davis Museum and Cultural Center at
Wellesley College, Wellesley, Massachusetts from Sept. 14 to Dec. 8.
2002. That's the only venue besides Ann Arbor,Michigan.
You're welcome!
All best,
Annette Dixon


Hi, I just ordered my catalogue and was wondering if you knew the
schedule for the exhibit.  I understand it is going to Massachusetts
later in the year.  Is it going anywhere else?   (Please, Please,
Please, Phoenix AZ!!!)

Thank you so much for putting this together!!

Saragrace T. Knauf

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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:19:14 -0700
Status: RO

I wonder if we could get Drea to look in her database of Mary Tudor's
inventories.  I tried to do it myself, but the selection for underwear
isn't there (no chemise, smocks, etc either).  Though I would have
thought Drea would have published it widely if some tasty morsel like
this showed up.  I wouldn't be surprised if such inventories existed for
MQOS though.  I read the biography of Bess of Hardwick recently and she
kept meticulous records.  Since her hubby was tasked with supporting
MQOS (often at his own expense) and always asking ' Liz for more money
to do so, I bet they kept close track of it.  Whether it is readily
available is another question.  

Lets take a trip to England and look-:}

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Margo Anderson
**Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 3:43 PM
**To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
**
**
**At 02:35 PM 03/15/2002 -0800, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
**>
**>>As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that 
**Elizabethan women did 
**>>not wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so 
**far, no one's 
**>>proved they did.
**>
**>Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of 
**Scots, so 
**>at
**>least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.
**
**Where can I find these inventories?
**
**Margo
**"One Tough Costumer"
**
**
**See the Historic Costume Patterns website at 
**margospatterns.com _______________________________________________
**h-costume mailing list
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:02:31 -0800
Status: RO


> >>As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that Elizabethan women did not
> >>wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so far, no one's proved
> >>they did.
> >
> >Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so at
> >least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.
>
>Where can I find these inventories?

No idea.  This is mentioned in 'The Embroidery of Mary Queen of Scots', and 
there may be a bibliographical note in the back about where the actual 
inventories are.  I remember this bit of trivia, but no longer own the book.

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:11:52 -0500
Status: RO

I think Drea is still off-list.  So you might want to write her personally.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:51:57 -0800
Status: RO


> Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so
> at least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.

But Mary was far more French than English and she was also one 
of the women considered scandalous (much like the d'Este sisters 
when they started wearing them in Italy.) So, even if they showed 
up, it didn't mean that *Elizabethan" (ie English) women wore them.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:51:57 -0800
Status: RO


> At 01:07 AM 03/15/2002 -0700, C.A.Critchell wrote:
> >she goes in to wonderful detail about the Effigy corset.  In that
> >article she mentions drawers or underwear but beyond the citations 
> >mentioned for the corset she didn't have any for the drawers. 
> 
> I heard Jean Hunnisett lecture last year, and during her lecture she
> showed a slide of the Effigy in its undies.  She's of the opinion that
> the drawers were not period, but were added, probably when the effigy
> was redressed during the 18th century, to hold padding in place or to
> provide a surface to pin to. (the Effigy body is made of wood). 
> 
> I tend to agree with her.  From the photo they looked like puffy 
> shorts with a drawstring around the top and some sort of gathering at
> the leg openings, I couldn't see what.  The legs were quite short, to
> the upper thigh.  They were plain fabric with no decoration.  The most
> telling part was that they quite obviously did not fit the effigy,
> being way too short in the crotch, with the drawstring "waist" sitting
> about where a pair of modern bikinis would, and with the fabric at the
> crotch area strained and pulling. They would have been quite
> uncomfortable on a human body, as well as precarious.  

After seeing them in person, I strongly felt that these could not 
have been Elizabeth's undies, for the reasons Margo mentioned. 
Also, the weren't in the style of the known Italian women's 
underwear. They looked like they were meant for a child to wear 
and much more like the drawers I've seen for 18th century stuff. 
The front didn't even close but sat much like my old cords which 
were about 10 sizes too small fit when I tried to pull them on.

We must keep in mind that when the effigy was redressed, they 
put *panniers* beneath the skirts of the dress which never would 
have been worn with the dress. If they could do that, they certainly 
weren't above putting a pair of drawers they were familiar with on it!

We do know that some women in this time period did wear undies. 
They are discussed in some of the men's travel letters as being 
shocking and that their (English) women wouldn't do such a thing.

For some reason, modern women can't believe that *anyone* could 
go without underpanties. However, in some cultures they weren't 
worn even into the beginning of the 20th Century (and don't say 
"well, they must have been thin" because the Samoan women I'm 
thinking of were anything but thin, and they lived in a very sweaty 
environment. Same thing but with colder weather for the Russian 
peasant women.) 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:47:52 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne,

You can come visit me.  I'd love to show you some of the lovely embroidered
pieces in museums here.  There is a late 1700s gown that has 15-20 floral
bouquets on it at the Valentine.  Each bouquet is different.  Just stunning.
Some of my favorite embroidered fabrics are in the Colonial Williamsburg
collection.  My jaw dropped when they opened the archives of fabric.  Some
of history's best kept secrets are archived in museums.  Some haven't seen
the light of day in decades.

Will I take Linda to see these things... no!  They might disappear.  LOL!!
I know Bjarne will only sketch the designs not ***borrow*** the fabrics.

BTW, Linda... do you have a thing for E.A. Poe too???  His items come up
missing for the collections in Richmond occasionally.  Were you the person
who took Poe's statue a few years ago and left it at the Raven Bar?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 20:03:35 -0500
Status: RO

Penny, I have only one thing to say about that, 

Nevermore!

And Penny is right, we are extremely fortunate to live in a place with
so much wonderful history at our fingertips.  It may not be Merry Old
Europe, but it's still got a lot to keep you busy!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
 
Bjarne,

You can come visit me.  I'd love to show you some of the lovely
embroidered
pieces in museums here.  There is a late 1700s gown that has 15-20
floral
bouquets on it at the Valentine.  Each bouquet is different.  Just
stunning.
Some of my favorite embroidered fabrics are in the Colonial Williamsburg
collection.  My jaw dropped when they opened the archives of fabric.
Some
of history's best kept secrets are archived in museums.  Some haven't
seen
the light of day in decades.

Will I take Linda to see these things... no!  They might disappear.
LOL!!
I know Bjarne will only sketch the designs not ***borrow*** the fabrics.

BTW, Linda... do you have a thing for E.A. Poe too???  His items come up
missing for the collections in Richmond occasionally.  Were you the
person
who took Poe's statue a few years ago and left it at the Raven Bar?

Penny Ladnier



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:07:28 -0800
Status: RO


> > Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so
> > at least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.
>
>But Mary was far more French than English and she was also one
>of the women considered scandalous (much like the d'Este sisters
>when they started wearing them in Italy.) So, even if they showed
>up, it didn't mean that *Elizabethan" (ie English) women wore them.

You missed the part where I put Elizabethan in ' ' marks.  While Mary Queen 
of Scots did live in England at the right time, she probably learned about 
under-drawers from her 'French' mother-in-law who was, I believe, Marie de 
Medici, an Italian.  So I can't believe MQoS was the only woman in all of 
England and France who wore under-drawers.  I agree they were way uncommon, 
and I'm not taking bets on how many others wore them, but certainly there 
were a few - not all 'Elizabethan' women were English.

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 23:03:21 -0500
Status: RO

Yes! I would love to wear full 16th century nobles and do a castle tour
of France and Germany. The cutting off my ex's head with my rapier would
be a bonus. But thats another fantasy.

Di
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Hi Victoria-I almost missed your post-are you able to change your
subject line?  . What a hoot.  We could probably start a whole 'nother
email list on horses used for recreation.  I haven't done it yet, not
for lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.  Do you have any
good sources for equestrian stuff?  Where do you live?
 
oooh aaahh, percheron/belgian.-yum.  My sister is raising a belgian
polish arab mix.  I want a Friesian!!  
 
Oh, yeah-costume stuff-Great pictures on your site.  No horsy pictures
though-ooops this is the costume list!
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Victoria Wickens
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 12:40 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #793 - 9 msgs



At 12:05 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:


Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?


*sheepish grin, raising hand*  Heck yes?  It's rather funny, actually...
the local hack stable lets me use their horses in my photo shoots
whenever I want.. they're pretty cool about the whole thing since I no
longer have horses of my own *sigh*.  There's a black Percheron/Belgian
mare there that I periodically drape in caparisons and ride in full kit
on, so anybody on a guided trail ride gets a huge start when they see a
fully-garbed medieval personage pounding through the woods *grin*.  Heck
they even let me bring my own weaponry and ride with it.  Wonder if
they'd consider selling that mare... hmmm.....



Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.
<http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html> html
<http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html> 
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/




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<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D200520404-16032002>Hi=20
Victoria-I almost missed your post-are you able to change your subject=20
line?&nbsp; .&nbsp;What a hoot.&nbsp; We could probably start a whole =
'nother=20
email list on horses used for recreation.&nbsp; I haven't done it yet, =
not for=20
lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.&nbsp; Do you have any =
good=20
sources for equestrian stuff?&nbsp; Where do you =
live?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D200520404-16032002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D200520404-16032002>oooh=20
aaahh, percheron/belgian.-yum.&nbsp; My sister is raising a belgian =
polish arab=20
mix.&nbsp; I want a Friesian!!&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D200520404-16032002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D200520404-16032002>Oh,=20
yeah-costume stuff-Great pictures on your site.&nbsp; No horsy pictures=20
though-ooops this is the costume list!</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original =
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
</B>Victoria Wickens<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 15, 2002 12:40=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] Re: =
h-costume=20
digest, Vol 1 #793 - 9 msgs<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #800000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">At=20
  12:05 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:<BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">Okay now I know this =
is really=20
    silly, but I just thought it might be fun<BR>to ask.&nbsp; Does =
anyone else=20
    fantasize about doing things in their costumes<BR>(finished, planned =
or also=20
    just dreamed about)?&nbsp; You know, like riding<BR>down your ex and =

    whacking his head off with a sword?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>*sheepish grin, =
raising=20
  hand*&nbsp; Heck yes?&nbsp; It's rather funny, actually... the local =
hack=20
  stable lets me use their horses in my photo shoots whenever I want.. =
they're=20
  pretty cool about the whole thing since I no longer have horses of my =
own=20
  *sigh*.&nbsp; There's a black Percheron/Belgian mare there that I =
periodically=20
  drape in caparisons and ride in full kit on, so anybody on a guided =
trail ride=20
  gets a huge start when they see a fully-garbed medieval personage =
pounding=20
  through the woods *grin*.&nbsp; Heck they even let me bring my own =
weaponry=20
  and ride with it.&nbsp; Wonder if they'd consider selling that mare... =

  hmmm.....<BR><BR><X-SIGSEP>
  <P></X-SIGSEP>Victoria Wickens<BR>Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<BR><A=20
  href=3D"http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html"=20
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eudora=3D"autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</A><BR><BR=
></FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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When I was at the natural history museum in Chicago a few weeks ago I
saw this incredible 
Eskimo 'suit' of eider down duck.  This  was  obviously made of a  hid e
of  feathers.    Does  anyone have any sources that might have
information about how to tan a hide so that the feathers would stay put?

 
Can you imagine a collar of 'breast of pheasant' or 'peacock'?

 


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I was at the natural history museum in Chicago&nbsp;a few weeks ago I =
saw this=20
incredible </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D190461804-16032002>Eskimo 'suit' of eider down duck.&nbsp; =
This&nbsp;=20
was&nbsp; obviously made of a&nbsp; hid e of&nbsp; =
feathers.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Does&nbsp; anyone have any sources that might have information about how =
to tan=20
a hide so that the feathers would stay put?&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:46:54 -0800
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At 1:00 PM -0800 3/15/02, Daniel Fenwick wrote:
>  > >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
>>  >there's no metric thing of about that size.
>>
>>  Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
>>  perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
>
>Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
>dimensions...  :)

Not everyone's foot is a foot.  Not everyone's stride is a yard.  I 
like decimeters because the width of my palm is one.  I don't use 
them much, but I like them.

Heather
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From: Sheila <turrel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

> No idea.  This is mentioned in 'The Embroidery of
> Mary Queen of Scots', and 
> there may be a bibliographical note in the back
> about where the actual 
> inventories are.  I remember this bit of trivia, but
> no longer own the book.

  Don't suppose you remember who wrote or published
it?  I can't seem to find it at amazon or bookfinder.

Sheila

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "tanning" hides of feathers
In-Reply-To: <000201c1cca2$c140c420$6501a8c0@phoenix.speedchoice.com>
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 20:43:42 -0800
Status: RO

I had a room mate once who worked in the kitchen at a casino restaurant.
They had a "wild game night" when they served ducks and pheasants raised on
the owner's estate.  One of the chefs taught my friend how to skin a bird,
and to bury  the "hide" in a box of salt for a few weeks.  They came out
reasonably pliable, and not at all stinky.  I used some of the feathers to
make feather earrings and hatbands (hey, it was the 70's, after all).  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar 16 01:27:22 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Victoria Wickens <windsong@broadviewnet.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Horses and Costumes
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 00:20:36 -0500
Status: RO

--=====================_58238883==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 09:35 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Victoria-I almost missed your post-are you able to change your
>subject line?  .

Yeah, but I just got lazy *grin*.  My apologies.

>  What a hoot.  We could probably start a whole 'nother
>email list on horses used for recreation.

Oooo, I always wanted to do that *grin*  thankfully Himself (the hubby) is 
into horses as well, but he does ACW *sigh* and I do MUCH earlier stuff 
*grin*.  I'm game, or we can chat offlist if you like!!

>I haven't done it yet, not
>for lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.

Ooo? *perking*  Do any of them need a good home? *hopeful look*

>Do you have any
>good sources for equestrian stuff?  Where do you live?

Central NY, smack-dab in the middle of Syracuse and Rochester, and it 
depends on what you mean by Equestrian Stuff.  I make my own caparisons, 
usually mountable over an English or a MacClellan saddle, and I sometimes 
use the horse's regular bridle if I cannot manage to rig one that matches 
the rest of the caparisons.  Stateline Tack is about an hour and change 
from me, in Brockport.

>  oooh aaahh, percheron/belgian.-yum.  My sister is raising a belgian
>polish arab mix.  I want a Friesian!!

Oooo, me too!!!  *grin*  I got a pic somewhere of me and Belle (that's her 
name, but I affectionately call her Tank, because of her propensity for 
taking down small trees as we dash madly through the forest) if you'd like 
to see it... nothing of us in garb though, as the last stuff I made was for 
a much smaller horse, and the velvet caparisons are on the back burner for 
now *sigh*

>  Oh, yeah-costume stuff-Great pictures on your site.  No horsy pictures
>though-ooops this is the costume list!

*grin*  Thank you and hopefully soon if I can light a fire under my 
webmistress... have more pics to scan of other outfits I've done and I do 
have SOME shots of the Horseman's Cloak, but they aren't the greatest 
quality.  If you want to see them, I can email them to you.  Now to find 
another web-pointing service that's not going to charge me through the 
nose.  If anyone has any ideas, email them to me offlist, please?


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_58238883==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 09:35 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Hi Victoria-I almost missed your
post-are you able to change your<br>
subject line?&nbsp; .</blockquote><br>
Yeah, but I just got lazy *grin*.&nbsp; My apologies.<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&nbsp;What a hoot.&nbsp; We could
probably start a whole 'nother<br>
email list on horses used for recreation.&nbsp; </blockquote><br>
Oooo, I always wanted to do that *grin*&nbsp; thankfully Himself (the
hubby) is into horses as well, but he does ACW *sigh* and I do MUCH
earlier stuff *grin*.&nbsp; I'm game, or we can chat offlist if you
like!!<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I haven't done it yet, not<br>
for lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.&nbsp;
</blockquote><br>
Ooo? *perking*&nbsp; Do any of them need a good home? *hopeful 
look*<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Do you have any<br>
good sources for equestrian stuff?&nbsp; Where do you
live?</blockquote><br>
Central NY, smack-dab in the middle of Syracuse and Rochester, and it
depends on what you mean by Equestrian Stuff.&nbsp; I make my own
caparisons, usually mountable over an English or a MacClellan saddle, and
I sometimes use the horse's regular bridle if I cannot manage to rig one
that matches the rest of the caparisons.&nbsp; Stateline Tack is about an
hour and change from me, in Brockport.<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&nbsp;oooh aaahh,
percheron/belgian.-yum.&nbsp; My sister is raising a belgian<br>
polish arab mix.&nbsp; I want a Friesian!!&nbsp; </blockquote><br>
Oooo, me too!!!&nbsp; *grin*&nbsp; I got a pic somewhere of me and Belle
(that's her name, but I affectionately call her Tank, because of her
propensity for taking down small trees as we dash madly through the
forest) if you'd like to see it... nothing of us in garb though, as the
last stuff I made was for a much smaller horse, and the velvet caparisons
are on the back burner for now *sigh*<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&nbsp;Oh, yeah-costume stuff-Great
pictures on your site.&nbsp; No horsy pictures<br>
though-ooops this is the costume list!</blockquote><br>
*grin*&nbsp; Thank you and hopefully soon if I can light a fire under my
webmistress... have more pics to scan of other outfits I've done and I do
have SOME shots of the Horseman's Cloak, but they aren't the greatest
quality.&nbsp; If you want to see them, I can email them to you.&nbsp;
Now to find another web-pointing service that's not going to charge me
through the nose.&nbsp; If anyone has any ideas, email them to me
offlist, please?<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</a><a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">html<br>
</a><font size=4>Gallery:
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_58238883==_.ALT--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar 16 01:46:26 2002
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Horses and Costumes
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You are not going to believe this (I hardly can!).  My sister lives in
Cato, N.Y.  (Between Rochester and Syracuse).  That little (little-hah!)
polish/Belgian mix is there.   What is ACW?  (something west?)  I live
in Phoenix AZ.  My gosh you must be up late!  
 
Do you have a place to keep a horse?   Oh-costume-oh bother.  Lets chat
off list.  My hubby is big time into guns-I might be able to coax him
into a western outfit.  I've been trying to get him into tights for
years-no deal.  (oh I managed to work something related to costumes in
here!)
 
 
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Victoria Wickens
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 10:21 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Horses and Costumes


At 09:35 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:


Hi Victoria-I almost missed your post-are you able to change your
subject line?  .


Yeah, but I just got lazy *grin*.  My apologies.



 What a hoot.  We could probably start a whole 'nother
email list on horses used for recreation.  


Oooo, I always wanted to do that *grin*  thankfully Himself (the hubby)
is into horses as well, but he does ACW *sigh* and I do MUCH earlier
stuff *grin*.  I'm game, or we can chat offlist if you like!!



I haven't done it yet, not
for lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.  


Ooo? *perking*  Do any of them need a good home? *hopeful look*



Do you have any
good sources for equestrian stuff?  Where do you live?


Central NY, smack-dab in the middle of Syracuse and Rochester, and it
depends on what you mean by Equestrian Stuff.  I make my own caparisons,
usually mountable over an English or a MacClellan saddle, and I
sometimes use the horse's regular bridle if I cannot manage to rig one
that matches the rest of the caparisons.  Stateline Tack is about an
hour and change from me, in Brockport.



 oooh aaahh, percheron/belgian.-yum.  My sister is raising a belgian
polish arab mix.  I want a Friesian!!  


Oooo, me too!!!  *grin*  I got a pic somewhere of me and Belle (that's
her name, but I affectionately call her Tank, because of her propensity
for taking down small trees as we dash madly through the forest) if
you'd like to see it... nothing of us in garb though, as the last stuff
I made was for a much smaller horse, and the velvet caparisons are on
the back burner for now *sigh*



 Oh, yeah-costume stuff-Great pictures on your site.  No horsy pictures
though-ooops this is the costume list!


*grin*  Thank you and hopefully soon if I can light a fire under my
webmistress... have more pics to scan of other outfits I've done and I
do have SOME shots of the Horseman's Cloak, but they aren't the greatest
quality.  If you want to see them, I can email them to you.  Now to find
another web-pointing service that's not going to charge me through the
nose.  If anyone has any ideas, email them to me offlist, please?



Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.
<http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html> html
<http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html> 
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/




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charset=3Dus-ascii">
<TITLE>Message</TITLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000 size=3D2>You=20
are not going to believe this (I hardly can!).&nbsp; My sister lives in =
Cato,=20
N.Y.&nbsp; (Between Rochester and Syracuse).&nbsp; That little=20
(little-hah!)&nbsp;polish/Belgian mix is there.&nbsp;&nbsp; What is =
ACW?&nbsp;=20
(something west?)&nbsp; I live in Phoenix AZ.&nbsp; My gosh you must be =
up=20
late!&nbsp; </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000 size=3D2>Do=20
you have a place to keep a horse?&nbsp; &nbsp;Oh-costume-oh =
bother.&nbsp; Lets=20
chat off list.&nbsp; My hubby is big time into guns-I might be able to =
coax him=20
into a western outfit.&nbsp; I've been trying to get him into tights for =

years-no deal.&nbsp; (oh I managed to work something related to costumes =
in=20
here!)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #800000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
  h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
  </B>Victoria Wickens<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 15, 2002 10:21=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] Re: =
Horses=20
  and Costumes<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>At 09:35 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you =
wrote:<BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">Hi Victoria-I almost =
missed your=20
    post-are you able to change your<BR>subject line?&nbsp;=20
  .</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Yeah, but I just got lazy *grin*.&nbsp; My=20
apologies.<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">&nbsp;What a =
hoot.&nbsp; We could=20
    probably start a whole 'nother<BR>email list on horses used for=20
    recreation.&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Oooo, I always wanted to do that=20
  *grin*&nbsp; thankfully Himself (the hubby) is into horses as well, =
but he=20
  does ACW *sigh* and I do MUCH earlier stuff *grin*.&nbsp; I'm game, or =
we can=20
  chat offlist if you like!!<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">I haven't done it =
yet, not<BR>for=20
    lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.&nbsp; =
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Ooo?=20
  *perking*&nbsp; Do any of them need a good home? *hopeful =
look*<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">Do you have =
any<BR>good sources=20
    for equestrian stuff?&nbsp; Where do you =
live?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Central NY,=20
  smack-dab in the middle of Syracuse and Rochester, and it depends on =
what you=20
  mean by Equestrian Stuff.&nbsp; I make my own caparisons, usually =
mountable=20
  over an English or a MacClellan saddle, and I sometimes use the =
horse's=20
  regular bridle if I cannot manage to rig one that matches the rest of =
the=20
  caparisons.&nbsp; Stateline Tack is about an hour and change from me, =
in=20
  Brockport.<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">&nbsp;oooh aaahh,=20
    percheron/belgian.-yum.&nbsp; My sister is raising a =
belgian<BR>polish arab=20
    mix.&nbsp; I want a Friesian!!&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Oooo, me =
too!!!&nbsp;=20
  *grin*&nbsp; I got a pic somewhere of me and Belle (that's her name, =
but I=20
  affectionately call her Tank, because of her propensity for taking =
down small=20
  trees as we dash madly through the forest) if you'd like to see it... =
nothing=20
  of us in garb though, as the last stuff I made was for a much smaller =
horse,=20
  and the velvet caparisons are on the back burner for now =
*sigh*<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">&nbsp;Oh, =
yeah-costume=20
    stuff-Great pictures on your site.&nbsp; No horsy =
pictures<BR>though-ooops=20
    this is the costume list!</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>*grin*&nbsp; Thank you and =
hopefully=20
  soon if I can light a fire under my webmistress... have more pics to =
scan of=20
  other outfits I've done and I do have SOME shots of the Horseman's =
Cloak, but=20
  they aren't the greatest quality.&nbsp; If you want to see them, I can =
email=20
  them to you.&nbsp; Now to find another web-pointing service that's not =
going=20
  to charge me through the nose.&nbsp; If anyone has any ideas, email =
them to me=20
  offlist, please?<BR><BR><X-SIGSEP>
  <P></X-SIGSEP>Victoria Wickens<BR>Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<BR><A=20
  href=3D"http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html"=20
  eudora=3D"autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</A><A=20
  href=3D"http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html"=20
  eudora=3D"autourl">html<BR></A><FONT size=3D4>Gallery: <A=20
  href=3D"http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/"=20
  =
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 22:14:44 -0800
Status: RO


>I had a room mate once who worked in the kitchen at a casino restaurant.
>They had a "wild game night" when they served ducks and pheasants raised on
>the owner's estate.  One of the chefs taught my friend how to skin a bird,
>and to bury  the "hide" in a box of salt for a few weeks.  They came out
>reasonably pliable, and not at all stinky.  I used some of the feathers to
>make feather earrings and hatbands (hey, it was the 70's, after all).

Borax is good too.  The 20 Mule Team kind is fine.  Someone I know made 
friends with a duck hunter, and he gave us a gunny sack full of 
non-matching mallard wings.  We dried them out in borax, and she did an 
1890's hat with hers.


Kayta
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 01:36:58 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, Linda, you will be back in Richmond... I got a postcard in the mail
today the Antique Book show/ Antiques Spectacular is... <<<drum roll>>> Mar.
23-24 at the Showplace on Mechanicsville Turnpike (Rt. 360).  Sat. 10-6, Sun
12-5.  This is my favorite antique show.

My husband is wanting us to move back West to New Mexico or Colorado.  I
have put my foot down... I won't leave Costume Heaven!!!  We can have an
Autumn/Winter home in the West but I am staying in Virginia the majority of
the time.  We have access to so many libraries and museums... nothing like
going to the original source.  Plus there are a lot of costuming events
here.  Such a respect for history and the arts.

When we moved the website to its new host, we checked on our new demographic
software, more people visited the site from California and Virginia than
anywhere else in the U.S.  I thought at first... well, AOL is based in
Virginia so that is why Virginia came in high.  The statistics are based on
where your server is located.  Recently, I bought two large maps, on of the
world and a separate U.S. map with the individual states.  I placed both
maps on the floor, then went through my records for the classes.  I called
out the location country/state of every student who has taken a class.  As I
called it out the info, my children placed a color coded dot on the location
on the map.  After doing this for a while, my little Katie said, "Mom, you
need to open up a school for California and Virginia for costume."  We have
an overwhelming amount of students from California.  Statistically, for
almost every class we have 2 students from California and at least one from
Virginia.

I just finished writing my first grant proposal, so I am full of statistics.
If you hear someone screaming for joy in about a month... it will mean we
got the grant.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 07:04:05 -0000
Status: RO

We used phesant wings on an 1870s had, the full wing bone & flesh, it was
died it a very very slow oven, two years later & no noticible stink. I'd
suggest looking at recipes for taxidermy for keeping the feathers on

Mel

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 07:05:58 -0000
Status: RO

There are quite a few lists re horses & dressing up Parade horse is one,
then the SCA lists for equestrians, medieval there is warhorse & cavalry for
later

Mel

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 08:16:26 -0000
Status: RO

On 15 Mar 2002 at 10:36, Ulrika A. O'Brien wrote:

> But, at least in Sweden, it's common to use an intermediate unit:
> the hectogram: 100 grams, which is a perfectly useful and convenient
> size.  

Never even heard of that one. I can see how the word derives, but I've never herad of 
anyone using it. 100 grams: about 4 ounces: yes, that's quite a nice unit.


> A decimeter is a perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.

Ten centimetres? Yes, again, it would be, if it was ever used.

You know, I can see why this metric stuff caught on in Sweden, if you got that sort of 
unit to play with. Over here, they do daft things like measuring cars in millimetres.




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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 08:16:27 -0000
Status: RO

On 15 Mar 2002 at 13:23, Ulrika A. O'Brien wrote:

> At 01:00 PM 3/15/2002, you wrote:
> > > >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
> > > >there's no metric thing of about that size.
> > >
> > > Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> > > perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
> >
> >Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
> >dimensions...  :)
> 
> Depends on the size of your feet!  I know men who have foot-long
> feet, but lots of women might well be no closer to a foot than
> a decimeter.

If I'm measuring a field, rather than a bit of cloth, a pace is about a yard. Me not having 
very long legs, I can't pace a metre. But that's pretty approximate anyway.

The "hand" (across the knuckles including the thumb), standard unit for measuring 
horses, is useful. Four inches. But (grabbing a ruler), that would also be about 10cm, 
which is this "decimetre" thing. I'll have to start using that, it's a good unit.



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Date: 16 Mar 2002 01:28:51 -0800
Status: RO

I might use a pound of one ingredient: I'm unlikely to use a kilo in home 
> cooking.

I often do, but then my husband keeps complaining that I cook enough for an army. Perhaps we should move to England - a good way to lose weight...

> Oh, and the decimal system has one real problem: dividing by three. A third of a yard is 
> a foot: a third of a foot is four inches. A third of a metre is 33.3-recurring centimetres?
>  No, give me base-12 any time. 

OK, I give up! I never thought dividing by three  would be that important, I'm happy to divide by 5... But this is like argueing whether raspberries taste better than strawberries.

By the way, I was just reading Newsweek and in an article about fashion shows they said "11 cm heels". Could somebody in the States explain whether this is just because the fashion designer happened to be european and the poor editors didn't kow how much tat would be in inches, or do high-heeled shoes belong to the same category with new-born babies?

just wondering,

Riina
> 
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 11:37:35 +0100
Status: RO

Jane Williams skrev:
> > A decimeter is a perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
> 
> Ten centimetres? Yes, again, it would be, if it was ever used.
> 
> You know, I can see why this metric stuff caught on in Sweden, if you got that sort of
> unit to play with. Over here, they do daft things like measuring cars in millimetres.

Really? *giggle* In that case, I can se why people seem disinclied to
adopt the metric system! :D 

But seriously, there are all kinds of intermediate units that can be
used - and even when they're not, 20 or 30 centimeters are perfectly
useful units when you know how much one centimeter is. It really does
only boil down to what you're used to and what feels natural to you.

Ingrid
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:00:26 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

> By the way, I was just reading Newsweek and in an article about fashion
shows they said "11 cm heels". Could somebody in the States explain whether
this is just because the fashion designer happened to be european and the
poor editors didn't kow how much tat would be in inches, or do high-heeled
shoes belong to the same category with new-born babies?

Was it online Newsweek or a non-US edition?  They often change things like
measurements to metric when they provide content to non-US customers.

If it was a US edition, I'm stumped. Maybe an editor just missed it.

Susan

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 06:53:29 -0800
Status: RO


>We used pheasant wings on an 1870s had, the full wing bone & flesh, it was
>died it a very very slow oven, two years later & no noticible stink. I'd
>suggest looking at recipes for taxidermy for keeping the feathers on

We looked at recipes for taxidermy, and that's where we got the borax 
idea.  The skin shrank in the drying process, and those feathers were in 
there good and solid.

The stink is decay.  The decay-bacteria won't grow on something dry like 
taxidermed bird parts.  We stored our wings in plastic bags with a little 
borax in with them to keep them dry, so no mold would grow in there.

Kayta
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 07:23:58 -0800
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I looked up several animals on the US Fish and Game Department website, to 
find out which ones were endangered/protected and which ones were OK for 
hats (and costumes).  If you use the wrong animal parts, Fish and Game can 
fine you, confiscate the garment they are on, and maybe even jail you.

Anything with a hunting/fishing season (pheasants, quahog clams, etc.) is 
assumed to have been got legally.  Fallen feathers from protected species 
are technically illegal, even tho it is possible to tell a fallen feather 
from a plucked-out one.  Licensed hawk owners are not allowed to give you 
fallen feathers from their own birds, altho they may legally wear these 
themselves.  Some Native Americans can wear some protected animal parts.

'Escaped domestic animal' (chickens, cows, Dalmations, etc.) parts are 
always legal, as are varmint parts (rats, coyotes, etc.)  Things like 
ostriches, which are endangered in the wild but ranched in the US, are 
legal in the US but may not be legal elsewhere.  (20 years ago, when we 
were going to Australia/Lochac, we were told that we couldn't bring our 
ostrich feathers into Australia, because their customs officers couldn't 
tell ranched ones from endangered ones.  Likewise, we couldn't legally 
bring back any kangaroo parts, even leather from what the Aussies know are 
vermin species, because US customs officers can't tell one from the other.)

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:11:03 -0800
Status: RO

At 2:38 PM -0800 3/15/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>Whatever is clean works for me.  ;}
>
>Interesting - nothing I fantasize about doing, in historical 
>costume, gets better than an 'R' rating.

Maybe it's the writer in me, but one of the things I always consider 
when making a historic outfit is its "taking off" potential.  What 
would it be like to undress someone wearing this?

Heather
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Heather Rose Jones
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 12:43:00 -0500
Status: RO

>At 2:38 PM -0800 3/15/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>>Whatever is clean works for me.  ;}
>>
>>Interesting - nothing I fantasize about doing, in historical 
>>costume, gets better than an 'R' rating.
>
>Maybe it's the writer in me, but one of the things I always consider 
>when making a historic outfit is its "taking off" potential.  What 
>would it be like to undress someone wearing this?
>
>Heather

      Although with the Queen Margot scenario, you don't have to take 
off anything...

      Suddenly I see Costume Cons becoming much more popular with non-costumers.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 13:08:46 -0500
Status: RO


> 
> Although with the Queen Margot scenario, you don't have to take
> off anything...
> 
> Suddenly I see Costume Cons becoming much more popular with non-costumers.
> 
> -Carol
I remember seeing the "alley scene" for the first time, and yeah it was
steamy, but I couldn't help whining that the back of the dress would be
scored by the stone wall behind her.
No, not a textile freak at all!
Laurie

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 11:44:41 -0700
Status: RO

And then, of course, there's us poor souls who mostly use
feet/inches/yards, and live in a country that does, and own a swedish
car....*sigh*.....the nearest volvo repair place is two states away in
Washington.....
--Sue

Jane Williams wrote:

> You know, I can see why this metric stuff caught on in Sweden, if you got that sort of
> unit to play with. Over here, they do daft things like measuring cars in millimetres.
>
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From: "Ruth Bean" <ruthbean@onetel.net.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 18:52:52 -0000
Status: RO

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:03:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Sheila <turrel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
To: h-costume@indra.com
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com


> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

> No idea.  This is mentioned in 'The Embroidery of
> Mary Queen of Scots', and=20
> there may be a bibliographical note in the back
> about where the actual=20
> inventories are.  I remember this bit of trivia, but
> no longer own the book.

  Don't suppose you remember who wrote or published
it?  I can't seem to find it at amazon or bookfinder.

Sheila


Margaret Swain wrote The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots. It was last =
reprinted December 2000 and we are the publisher. Copies should still be =
available in the USA from Unicorn Books, Petaluma, CA, or if not from us =
directly. The reading list does contain a reference:
Thomson, T: Collection of inventories and other records of the royal =
wardrobe (Edinburgh, 1815), but we haven't seen this!

Nigel Bean

Ruth Bean Publishers
Victoria Farmhouse
Carlton, Bedford MK43 7LP
England
Tel: 44-1234-720356  Fx: 44-1234-720590
E-mail: ruthbean@onetel.net.uk



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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">Date:=20
Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:03:58 -0800 (PST)<BR>From: Sheila &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:turrel@yahoo.com">turrel@yahoo.com</A>&gt;<BR>Subject: =
Re: [h-cost]=20
Elizabethan Underthings<BR>To: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A><BR>Reply-To: =
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</A><BR>=
<BR><BR>&gt;=20
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings<BR>&gt; Reply-To: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</A><BR>=
<BR>&gt;=20
No idea.&nbsp; This is mentioned in 'The Embroidery of<BR>&gt; Mary =
Queen of=20
Scots', and <BR>&gt; there may be a bibliographical note in the =
back<BR>&gt;=20
about where the actual <BR>&gt; inventories are.&nbsp; I remember this =
bit of=20
trivia, but<BR>&gt; no longer own the book.<BR><BR>&nbsp; Don't suppose =
you=20
remember who wrote or published<BR>it?&nbsp; I can't seem to find it at =
amazon=20
or bookfinder.<BR><BR>Sheila</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Margaret Swain wrote <EM><STRONG>The Needlework of =
Mary Queen=20
of Scots.</STRONG></EM>&nbsp;It was last reprinted December 2000 and we =
are the=20
publisher. Copies should still be available in the USA from Unicorn =
Books,=20
Petaluma, CA, or if not from us directly.&nbsp;The reading list does =
contain a=20
reference:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thomson, T: <EM><STRONG>Collection of inventories =
and other=20
records of the royal wardrobe</STRONG></EM> (Edinburgh, 1815), but we =
haven't=20
seen this!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Nigel Bean</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ruth Bean Publishers<BR>Victoria =
Farmhouse<BR>Carlton, Bedford=20
MK43 7LP<BR>England<BR>Tel: 44-1234-720356&nbsp; Fx: =
44-1234-720590<BR>E-mail:=20
<A =
href=3D"mailto:ruthbean@onetel.net.uk">ruthbean@onetel.net.uk</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots

Author:  Margaret Swain

Copyright:  1973

Publisher:  Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, Inc.

ISBN:  0-442-29962-1

On page 46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent to 
Lochleven during her captivity.

Ramona

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots
<BR>
<BR>Author: &nbsp;Margaret Swain
<BR>
<BR>Copyright: &nbsp;1973
<BR>
<BR>Publisher: &nbsp;Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, Inc.
<BR>
<BR>ISBN: &nbsp;0-442-29962-1
<BR>
<BR>On page 46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent to Lochleven during her captivity.
<BR>
<BR>Ramona</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Alice In Wonderland Question
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 12:39:15 -0700
Status: RO


Hi all,

In 1999, CBS aired a miniseries of Alice In Wonderland directed by Nick 
Willing, and having a girl named Tina Majorino as Alice... Whoopi Goldberg 
was the Cheshire Cat.  The shoes that Alice wore were WONDERFUL and I'd love 
to know if anyone knows how to contact the costume designer for this movie?

Regards,
Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com



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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:42:06 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Just a note on the "tanning" aspect of the conversation. The
processes you mention (salt and borax) are closer to tawing than tanning. The
salts draw out moisture from the flesh and skin in the same way that natron
was used to preserve Egyptian bodies. Tawing was done with alum and salt, and
is the basis for modern type chemical tanning. However, merely salting or
using borax are not enough to properly convert the skin to the pliable and
relatively bacteria-safe product that you would want. The tannin in the
tanning process helps to permanently convert some of the tissue. Tawing, at
least in the Medieval period, was considered less of a quality process than
tanning, although many quality products were made from it, because the
process was less lasting. As a side note, the third method of leather
preservation other than tanning and tawing is chamoising, where the hides and
skins are subjected to oil and oxidation processes. The buff leather used for
armor straps and, indeed, many sorts of body armor from the 16th and 17th
Cents., such as the ubiquitous "buffcoat", are made in this manner.  Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 13:12:48 -0800
Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women


> Dunno about that one...the only two things I have *ever* seen adequately
> support my bust (I'm some sort of 56G, mumble, mumble) are my

Okay, ya got me.  I think the largest Elizabethan-style I've fitted was a
40FF.

> Elizabethan corset (with rather more than four bones), and one of
> Robin's gothic fitted gowns.  If I'm wearing another style (ItalianRen,
> for instance, or one of the earlier styles involving some sort of
> tee-tunic, or the lower-class wench stuff I wore for years before I
> turned it into loaner garb for our SCA group) I pretty much *have* to
> cheat and wear a bra.

Another rather large woman I worked with for a cote-hardie was about your
size but the belt-the-chemise-under-the-bust trick was sufficient for
support apparently.  As far as I know, she didn't wear a bra.  ('Course, I
only know of her wearing the outfit once.  She usually does Elizabethan and
fits her own.)

> I'm looking forward to trying some of the corded bodies and stays that
> have been showing up recently.....

Yeah, it's been sounding interesting.  Myself, I'm going to experiment with
natural reed splits "real soon now". <g>

If you are in (or coming thru) the Portland, OR area, get in touch off-line,
eh?  I'd like a chance at fitting someone your size.  Most shy away thinking
I'll try tight-lacing them.


ttyl,
Brenna



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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 16:11:04 -0500
Status: RO

If you mean this book, "The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots" by Margaret Swain
1986 Ruth Bean Pubs. ISBN 0-903585-22-7, I have a copy. I looked briefly through
the inventories section, but didn't find a reference to netherbreeches. If you can
remember if this is the book, and about where in it the reference is, I will look
for it. As a sidenote, I have had this or a similar discussion with a number of
folks. In this case, I will refer to a greater authority, Millia Davenport's Book
of Costume. Pg 632-633 Photos 1689-93 The description reads "XVIc. Italian.
Sicilian. 5-piece set of Linen Underwear, embroidered in silk and metal threads:
camisia (underdress), shirt, stockings (without foot), and two pairs of
underdrawers. Underdrawers, like most refinements of dress, originated in Italy.
Moryson mentions "silke or linnen breeches under their gownes" as being
characteristic of Italian townswomen's dress. He says they are not worn at all in
Germany; they are obviously none too common in his native England at end XVIc."
Mike T.



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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 17:26:09 -0500
Status: RO

Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive down to
meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour with you
all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 7:48 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping


Bjarne,

You can come visit me.  I'd love to show you some of the lovely embroidered
pieces in museums here.  There is a late 1700s gown that has 15-20 floral
bouquets on it at the Valentine.  Each bouquet is different.  Just stunning.
Some of my favorite embroidered fabrics are in the Colonial Williamsburg
collection.  My jaw dropped when they opened the archives of fabric.  Some
of history's best kept secrets are archived in museums.  Some haven't seen
the light of day in decades.

Will I take Linda to see these things... no!  They might disappear.  LOL!!
I know Bjarne will only sketch the designs not ***borrow*** the fabrics.

BTW, Linda... do you have a thing for E.A. Poe too???  His items come up
missing for the collections in Richmond occasionally.  Were you the person
who took Poe's statue a few years ago and left it at the Raven Bar?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 17:46:00 -0500
Status: RO

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
I hadn't before, but now you've given me an idea....
<br>But how does one orchestrate such a scenario? *sigh*
<br>It'll never happen...
<br>Deb R
<blockquote class=cite cite="" type="cite">You know, like riding
<br>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?</blockquote>

<br>&nbsp;</html>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "tanning" hides of feathers
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:18:50 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:14 PM -0800 3/15/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>I had a room mate once who worked in the kitchen at a casino restaurant.
>>They had a "wild game night" when they served ducks and pheasants raised on
>>the owner's estate.  One of the chefs taught my friend how to skin a bird,
>>and to bury  the "hide" in a box of salt for a few weeks.  They came out
>>reasonably pliable, and not at all stinky.  I used some of the feathers to
>>make feather earrings and hatbands (hey, it was the 70's, after all).
>
>Borax is good too.  The 20 Mule Team kind is fine.  Someone I know 
>made friends with a duck hunter, and he gave us a gunny sack full of 
>non-matching mallard wings.  We dried them out in borax, and she did 
>an 1890's hat with hers.

As a former amateur taxidermist ...

Both these methods work for preserving a bird skin with feathers 
intact, but only if the skin is not required to be pliable.  Both 
methods are simply a drying process, using either salt or borax to 
pull moisture out of the hide.  (Borax works much more strongly and 
is what I used in taxidermy.)  In both cases, if you have a 
particularly fat skin or greasy feathers (e.g., most water birds) 
it's important to note that the treatment does nothing to the fat, 
and it may eventually become rancid and rot the skin.  Conversely, if 
you want to try doing an "oil-tan" method on the skin, this may be a 
bonus (or you could try adding oil to the dried skin).

I never tried processing a bird "pelt" for permanent flexibility. 
The oil-tan method is the obvious one to try (similarly to methods 
used for some small furs) since it doesn't involve soaking the pelt 
entirely in liquid (which can mess up the feathers).  This would 
involve first drying the skin (and removing _excess) fat from it) and 
then working small amounts of oil into it while flexing the skin to 
soften it.  Oil tanned items do have a potential for rotting, in the 
long run, because there hasn't actually been a chemical denaturing of 
the protein fibers, as you get with any of the chemical tanning 
methods.

Regular chemical soaking methods can be used on the actual skin part 
of a bird-skin, witness ostrich leather used on some fancy boots and 
accessories.  But any method that involves soaking in a liquid 
solution will tend to affect the feathers badly.  (Getting blood on 
the feathers anywhere in the process also causes problems.)

I'll also add a caution that even a processed bird skin may be 
overwhelmingly tempting to a cat who has had experience hunting (and 
therefore is familiar with bird smells).  I had a cat "take out" one 
of my mounted specimens once.

Heather

-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar 16 19:33:19 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] lecture
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:21:31 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I went to a  lecture today that the danish textile history society
"Tenen" had arranged.
It was a lecture with dias show that textile conservator Else Østergård
held about the royal burrials at Roskilde Cathedral. Else Østergård has
written a book about it, wich some of you know. It is called "Fru
Kirstens Børn" (Misses Kirsten's Children" There was some dias showed
that never had ben shown to the public yeat of another burrial that came
up at Roskilde, the same time as the royal Coiffins was examinated.
Those dias'es showed the burrial of a little nobility girl.
The pictures was very interresting as the lecture also. Else Østergård
had shown the lecture to Janet Arnold also, and Janet Arnold could tell
Else Østergård that the pearl embroiered "crown" at the childs head was
an Elizabethan Cuff from a pair of gloves. They had some Pellicans
embroidered on them.
The childrens clothes had gold laces on, gold lace that is rekonstrukted
so that it can be made today. A danish lady had made some
rekonstruktions of them. Some of them had spangels worked to the points
of the laces. (some of my students in Pennys Classroom who took the lace
course, has seen them, and they have also had the patterns for the laces
from me.)
Else Østergård could not explain why the children was dressed in grown
up clothes, they were dressed in knitted silk sweaters with metal
thread, a very elaborate pattern. and some knitted silk stockings also
with patterned metal lace. It is hard to imagine that they would not
have had fine clothes for this purpose. Perhaps the clothes was recykled
to the smaller children. Kirsten Munk had many children with the king..
I was very excited about this, and it was worth waiting for.
The examination of the coiffins took place about 20 years ago. They had
no idea that it would be such a fine find. The coiffins was going to be
restored, and therefore they just wanted to write down details of the
find.
She also told us that it was because those coiffins had no seals in
them, that they were permitted to open them. Coiffins with seals has
strichly orders not to be examined.

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Fantasy
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:25:34 -0800
Status: RO

I've got three ex-husbands, so I could do it three times, so far.  But my 
recent ex is taking care of our two kids while I'm doing poverty, so maybe 
I keep him.

>I hadn't before, but now you've given me an idea....
>But how does one orchestrate such a scenario? *sigh*
>It'll never happen...
>Deb R
>>You know, like riding
>>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?




Kayta
    //// \\\
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Tapestry exhibit
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 19:09:30 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


The New York Times had a highly positive review this week of an exhibit
called "Tapestry in the Renaissance: Art and Magnificence" at New York's
Metropolitan Museum. It features 41 tapestries from the late 15th and the
16th centuries, including Flemish, Italian, and French, and the reviewer
says they're all of top quality. I *think* the review was either March 11
or March 15 (someone else sent it to me, so I don't have the full info),
so you might still find it on the Times website if you check fast, before
it moves into archive. 

Included in the exhibit are several tapestries designed by Raphael and at
least one by Bronzino. I have no idea how much of costume interest there
is in the images for people working in the period, as certainly many of
the scenes will be Biblical, Classical, or allegorical, but I'd guess
there's something of use. And I personally find tapestries useful for
adjusting my sense of period fabric colors, since I know I'm looking at
dyes, not paints.

The exhibit is open through June 19. I will certainly miss this one. If
you get there, given them a wave for me.

--Robin

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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 18:55:01 -0800
Status: RO

I don't have any ex's, but I have two lovely daughters so I could use this 
concept over and over!!  *cackles*  I even know someone to borrow the horse 
from!!

Jennifer


>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Fantasy
>Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:25:34 -0800
>
>I've got three ex-husbands, so I could do it three times, so far.  But my
>recent ex is taking care of our two kids while I'm doing poverty, so maybe
>I keep him.
>
>>I hadn't before, but now you've given me an idea....
>>But how does one orchestrate such a scenario? *sigh*
>>It'll never happen...
>>Deb R
>>>You know, like riding
>>>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?
>
>
>
>
>Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
>/----\   /---\))
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 21:06:19 -0700
Status: RO

That sounds like it was a wonderful lecture, Bjarne.  What time period
did the children live in?
--Sue

Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi.
> I went to a  lecture today that the danish textile history society
> "Tenen" had arranged.
> It was a lecture with dias show that textile conservator Else Østergård
> held about the royal burrials at Roskilde Cathedral. Else Østergård has
> written a book about it, wich some of you know. It is called "Fru
> Kirstens Børn" (Misses Kirsten's Children" There was some dias showed
> that never had ben shown to the public yeat of another burrial that came
> up at Roskilde, the same time as the royal Coiffins was examinated.
> Those dias'es showed the burrial of a little nobility girl.
> The pictures was very interresting as the lecture also. Else Østergård
> had shown the lecture to Janet Arnold also, and Janet Arnold could tell
> Else Østergård that the pearl embroiered "crown" at the childs head was
> an Elizabethan Cuff from a pair of gloves. They had some Pellicans
> embroidered on them.
> The childrens clothes had gold laces on, gold lace that is rekonstrukted
> so that it can be made today. A danish lady had made some
> rekonstruktions of them. Some of them had spangels worked to the points
> of the laces. (some of my students in Pennys Classroom who took the lace
> course, has seen them, and they have also had the patterns for the laces
> from me.)
> Else Østergård could not explain why the children was dressed in grown
> up clothes, they were dressed in knitted silk sweaters with metal
> thread, a very elaborate pattern. and some knitted silk stockings also
> with patterned metal lace. It is hard to imagine that they would not
> have had fine clothes for this purpose. Perhaps the clothes was recykled
> to the smaller children. Kirsten Munk had many children with the king..
> I was very excited about this, and it was worth waiting for.
> The examination of the coiffins took place about 20 years ago. They had
> no idea that it would be such a fine find. The coiffins was going to be
> restored, and therefore they just wanted to write down details of the
> find.
> She also told us that it was because those coiffins had no seals in
> them, that they were permitted to open them. Coiffins with seals has
> strichly orders not to be examined.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> --
> 
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
> 
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
> 
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
> 
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> 
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 21:07:49 -0700
Status: RO

Shoot, Megan, if Bjarne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly
over to do the museum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,
really, in my immediate locale.
--Sue (in Montana)

"Megan M." wrote:
> 
> Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive down to
> meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour with you
> all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
> -Megan
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From: "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 20:58:11 -0800
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------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1CD2D.4823C250
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It'd be so cool to have a tour, like what Merouda did once, here at the H=
enry Museum in Seattle at the University of Washington.  =20

I'd sign on for it!

Gia

----- Original Message -----
From: Sue Clemenger
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2002 8:29 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping

Shoot, Megan, if Bjarne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly
over to do the museum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,
really, in my immediate locale.
--Sue (in Montana)

"Megan M." wrote:
>
> Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive dow=
n to
> meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour with=
 you
> all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
> -Megan
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>It'd be so coo=
l to have a tour, like what Merouda did once, here at the Henry Museum in=
 Seattle at the University of Washington.&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> =
<DIV>I'd sign on for it!</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia</DIV> <DIV>&nbs=
p;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARG=
IN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV st=
yle=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D=
"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Sue Cl=
emenger</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, Marc=
h 16, 2002 8:29 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-cos=
tume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: =
[h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Shoot, Megan, if Bja=
rne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly<BR>over to do the mu=
seum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,<BR>really, in my imme=
diate locale.<BR>--Sue (in Montana)<BR><BR>"Megan M." wrote:<BR>&gt;<BR>&=
gt; Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive d=
own to<BR>&gt; meet you both.&nbsp; I'm only in DC, but would love to do =
a museum tour with you<BR>&gt; all.&nbsp; I promise not to "borrow" the f=
abric either.<BR>&gt; -Megan<BR>_________________________________________=
______<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://ma=
il.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 17 02:24:27 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:15:21 -0600
Status: RO

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> We do know that some women in this time period did wear undies.
> They are discussed in some of the men's travel letters as being
> shocking and that their (English) women wouldn't do such a thing.

Where can I find these letters?

Regards,
Melanie Schuessler
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 22:02:21 -0800
Status: RO


>
>Okay, ya got me.  I think the largest Elizabethan-style I've fitted was a
>40FF.


I once made an Elizabethan corset for a woman with a 76 inch bust.  It
looked fairly good, but she complained that it wasn't comfortable.  Imagine
that.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 01:49:04 -0500
Status: RO

Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!  Richmond has so much
fun stuff to do, I think you should make it a weekend event. Hmm,
there’s the Valentine, the Museum of the Confederacy, EA Poe, the Fine
Arts Museum, ….what else am I forgetting?  The restaurants and night
life aren't too shabby either!  And of course, Williamsburg is only
about 45 minutes away, so we'll HAVE to go there too!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Gia Gavino

It'd be so cool to have a tour, like what Merouda did once, here at the
Henry Museum in Seattle at the University of Washington.  
 I'd sign on for it!
 Gia
 
From: Sue Clemenger
Shoot, Megan, if Bjarne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly
over to do the museum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,
really, in my immediate locale.
--Sue (in Montana)

"Megan M." wrote:
>
> Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive
down to
> meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour
with you
> all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
> -Megan
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 10:34:48 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
Oh yes i forgot to tell about the year. The first girl died in 1627, the
second boy in 1629 ( i think)
Sorry about that.

Bjarne

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> That sounds like it was a wonderful lecture, Bjarne.  What time period
> did the children live in?
> --Sue
>
> Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > Hi.
> > I went to a  lecture today that the danish textile history society
> > "Tenen" had arranged.
> > It was a lecture with dias show that textile conservator Else Østergård
> > held about the royal burrials at Roskilde Cathedral. Else Østergård has
> > written a book about it, wich some of you know. It is called "Fru
> > Kirstens Børn" (Misses Kirsten's Children" There was some dias showed
> > that never had ben shown to the public yeat of another burrial that came
> > up at Roskilde, the same time as the royal Coiffins was examinated.
> > Those dias'es showed the burrial of a little nobility girl.
> > The pictures was very interresting as the lecture also. Else Østergård
> > had shown the lecture to Janet Arnold also, and Janet Arnold could tell
> > Else Østergård that the pearl embroiered "crown" at the childs head was
> > an Elizabethan Cuff from a pair of gloves. They had some Pellicans
> > embroidered on them.
> > The childrens clothes had gold laces on, gold lace that is rekonstrukted
> > so that it can be made today. A danish lady had made some
> > rekonstruktions of them. Some of them had spangels worked to the points
> > of the laces. (some of my students in Pennys Classroom who took the lace
> > course, has seen them, and they have also had the patterns for the laces
> > from me.)
> > Else Østergård could not explain why the children was dressed in grown
> > up clothes, they were dressed in knitted silk sweaters with metal
> > thread, a very elaborate pattern. and some knitted silk stockings also
> > with patterned metal lace. It is hard to imagine that they would not
> > have had fine clothes for this purpose. Perhaps the clothes was recykled
> > to the smaller children. Kirsten Munk had many children with the king..
> > I was very excited about this, and it was worth waiting for.
> > The examination of the coiffins took place about 20 years ago. They had
> > no idea that it would be such a fine find. The coiffins was going to be
> > restored, and therefore they just wanted to write down details of the
> > find.
> > She also told us that it was because those coiffins had no seals in
> > them, that they were permitted to open them. Coiffins with seals has
> > strichly orders not to be examined.
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > --
> >
> > Leif Drews
> > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> > 1635  København V
> >
> > Bjarne Drews
> > Åboulevard 5,3.th
> > 1635 København V
> >
> > tlf. 35 37 13 70
> >
> > My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> >
> > Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: 17 Mar 2002 02:40:54 -0800
Status: RO


> Was it online Newsweek or a non-US edition?  They often change things like
> measurements to metric when they provide content to non-US customers.
> 
> If it was a US edition, I'm stumped. Maybe an editor just missed it.
> 
> Susan

Sorry I can't check now, but yes, it might have been an international edition as I was reading it here in Finland. I never noticed any other metric measurements though, but then I never thought of it.

Riina 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 17 09:25:13 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] VA Museum Tour
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 14:14:16 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I would love to come, it would be wonderfull.
Maybe some day..........
Remember, if any of h-costume members ever comes to Copenhagen, let me
know and i would love to show you arround to the Museum goodies. It
would be wonderfull to have good company with someone who really
apreciates same things as i do..........

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:00:49 -0500
Status: RO

Well, of course, we should do this tour IN COSTUME, right?
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Linda Rice
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 1:49 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)


Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!  Richmond has so much
fun stuff to do, I think you should make it a weekend event. Hmm,
there’s the Valentine, the Museum of the Confederacy, EA Poe, the Fine
Arts Museum, ….what else am I forgetting?  The restaurants and night
life aren't too shabby either!  And of course, Williamsburg is only
about 45 minutes away, so we'll HAVE to go there too!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Gia Gavino

It'd be so cool to have a tour, like what Merouda did once, here at the
Henry Museum in Seattle at the University of Washington. 
 I'd sign on for it!
 Gia
 
From: Sue Clemenger
Shoot, Megan, if Bjarne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly
over to do the museum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,
really, in my immediate locale.
--Sue (in Montana)

"Megan M." wrote:
>
> Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive
down to
> meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour
with you
> all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
> -Megan
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:37:15 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, that was a cool tour--I got to go on it during KWAS. Those cut and
voided velvets--oooh, drool city <g>.
--sue
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:44:58 -0700
Status: RO

I dunno, Megan....it'd be kinda hard to get mine into luggage <g>. 
Would be loads of fun to see the different costumes people would choose
to wear, though, since we "cover" so many different centuries.
--Sue, struck with this very bizarre image of trying to explain to the
nice security people that all that metal in her corset is safe, really
it is....[hmmm...yet another reason to make some stays with natural
materials <gggg>]

"Megan M." wrote:
> 
> Well, of course, we should do this tour IN COSTUME, right?
> -Megan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Linda Rice
> Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 1:49 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
> 
> Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
> for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:10:38 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> --Sue, struck with this very bizarre image of trying to explain to the
> nice security people that all that metal in her corset is safe, really
> it is....[hmmm...yet another reason to make some stays with natural
> materials <gggg>]

A Spanish farthingale, collapsed and twisted double on itself, fits nicely
into a suitcase, and under the X-ray looks like so much spaghetti...

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
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Suddenly I get visions of the proverbial can of worms, springing out at t=
he security gate, as an unsuspecting guard opens the suitcase...
LOL!!!!

I do like the idea of going in costume, but I'm more intrigued about gett=
ing as much research as I can possible squeeze into the time there.  Mayb=
e we could have a nice dinner out in costume?
 =20
Gia/Giacinta

----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Netherton
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 8:58 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)

A Spanish farthingale, collapsed and twisted double on itself, fits nicel=
y
into a suitcase, and under the X-ray looks like so much spaghetti...

--Robin

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Suddenly I get=
 visions of the proverbial can of worms, springing out at the security ga=
te, as an unsuspecting guard opens the suitcase...</DIV> <DIV>LOL!!!!</DI=
V> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I do like the idea of going in costume, but I'm=
 more intrigued about getting as much research as I can possible squeeze =
into the time there.&nbsp; Maybe we could have a nice dinner out in costu=
me?</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BL=
OCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px=
; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT:=
 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND:=
 #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Robin Netherton</D=
IV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 17, 2002 8=
:58 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.c=
om</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Va =
Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>A Spanish farthing=
ale, collapsed and twisted double on itself, fits nicely<BR>into a suitca=
se, and under the X-ray looks like so much spaghetti...<BR><BR>--Robin<BR=
><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costume mailing=
 list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listin=
fo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 17 14:19:27 2002
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 11:13:58 -0700
Status: RO

Yet another reason to stick to things like fitted gowns and ItalianRen
stuff, I suspect.....
--Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
carryon luggage for her embroidery projects [yes, I know I could put
them in my checked luggage, but a girl's gotta have *something* to work
on when she flies all the way across the U.S. and _then_ the Atlantic
Ocean <ggg>]

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> > --Sue, struck with this very bizarre image of trying to explain to the
> > nice security people that all that metal in her corset is safe, really
> > it is....[hmmm...yet another reason to make some stays with natural
> > materials <gggg>]
> 
> A Spanish farthingale, collapsed and twisted double on itself, fits nicely
> into a suitcase, and under the X-ray looks like so much spaghetti...
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 19:49:23 +0000
Status: RO

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote
>What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
>meter stick?
>
>Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
>what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
>call them?
>
>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
>English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
>that true in countries that only use the metric system?
>
>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
>copying patterns from clothes?
>
>Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
>or only a few?
>
>Thanks for any enlightenment,
>
>Fran

Everyone I know tends to use what comes to a handy number.  They started 
teaching metric in schools about my time (I'm 33), but you learn to sew 
and cook (and do woodwork) from your parents, so we're still in 
generations that think in Imperial measurements.  Most measuring 
instruments still come in both.  I and my husband are quite happy to 
measure something as "4 inches by 1.5 cm".  A local timber (lumber) 
merchants advertises that their staff are happy to deal with customers 
who come in with those sort of requirements.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:45:51 -0000
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From: FABRICHOARDER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 14:14:52 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
To: h-costume@indra.com
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com


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The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots

Author:  Margaret Swain

Copyright:  1973

Publisher:  Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, Inc.

ISBN:  0-442-29962-1

On page 46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent =
to=20
Lochleven during her captivity.

Ramona

Ramona's reference should read 'page 56' for both the current Ruth Bean =
edition and the earlier 1973 edition (out of print since the early =
1980s).

Nigel

Ruth Bean Publishers
Victoria Farmhouse
Carlton, Bedford MK43 7LP
England
Tel: 44-1234-720356  Fx: 44-1234-720590
E-mail: ruthbean@onetel.net.uk



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</HEAD>
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">From:=20
<A =
href=3D"mailto:FABRICHOARDER@aol.com">FABRICHOARDER@aol.com</A><BR>Date: =
Sat,=20
16 Mar 2002 14:14:52 EST<BR>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan =
Underthings<BR>To:=20
<A =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A><BR>Reply-To: =
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</A><BR>=
<BR><BR>--part1_181.530dd03.29c4f3ac_boundary<BR>Content-Type:=20
text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII"<BR>Content-Transfer-Encoding: =
7bit<BR><BR>The=20
Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots<BR><BR>Author:&nbsp; Margaret=20
Swain<BR><BR>Copyright:&nbsp; 1973<BR><BR>Publisher:&nbsp; Van Nostrand =
Reinhold=20
Company, Inc.<BR><BR>ISBN:&nbsp; 0-442-29962-1<BR><BR>On page 46, the =
author=20
notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent to <BR>Lochleven =
during her=20
captivity.<BR><BR>Ramona<BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ramona's reference should read 'page 56' for both =
the current=20
Ruth Bean edition and the earlier 1973 edition (out of print since the =
early=20
1980s).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Nigel</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ruth Bean Publishers<BR>Victoria =
Farmhouse<BR>Carlton, Bedford=20
MK43 7LP<BR>England<BR>Tel: 44-1234-720356&nbsp; Fx: =
44-1234-720590<BR>E-mail:=20
<A =
href=3D"mailto:ruthbean@onetel.net.uk">ruthbean@onetel.net.uk</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
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Hi. I looked at my Ruth Bean copy and the reference wasn't on pg 46 as
it was in the 1973 edition. Any idea where it is in the 1986 edition?
Mike T.


> On page 46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)"
> sent to Lochleven during her captivity.
>
> Ramona

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Hi. I looked at my Ruth Bean copy and the reference wasn't on pg 46 as
it was in the 1973 edition. Any idea where it is in the 1986 edition?&nbsp;
Mike T.
<br>&nbsp;
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>On page
46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent to Lochleven
during her captivity.</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Ramona</font></font></blockquote>
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 16:16:04 -0600
Status: RO

Sue, I think someone has mentioned the circular thingy from Clotilde that 
is a thread cutter, but no sharp edges.  Also, I got a set of needle 
threaders at Joann's (in the quilting notions area) and these threaders 
have built in thread cutters on them (a notch with a tiny edge at the 
bottom).  The threaders are mostly plastic, just the tiny wires for 
threading and the less than 1 mm thread cutter are metal.

Sandy

>--Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
>carryon luggage for her embroidery projects [yes, I know I could put
>them in my checked luggage, but a girl's gotta have *something* to work
>on when she flies all the way across the U.S. and _then_ the Atlantic
>Ocean <ggg>]

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 17:30:57 -0500
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At 01:49 AM 3/17/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
>for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!  Richmond has so much
>fun stuff to do, I think you should make it a weekend event. Hmm,
>there’s the Valentine, the Museum of the Confederacy, EA Poe, the Fine
>Arts Museum, ….what else am I forgetting?  The restaurants and night
>life aren't too shabby either!  And of course, Williamsburg is only
>about 45 minutes away, so we'll HAVE to go there too!
>
>Linda
>

I could work out a "behind the Scenes" at Williamsburg, if there was an
interest.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 16:19:07 -0500
Status: RO

Oh Yeah!!   Just name the time and meeting place, and I'll be there! 

Thanks!

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 5:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)

I could work out a "behind the Scenes" at Williamsburg, if there was an
interest.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	


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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:14:10 -0800
Status: RO


> --Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> carryon luggage for her embroidery projects ...

Clothilda sells a Thread Cutter Pendant by Clover that looks like a
necklace medallion.  It arrived after my trip, so I didn't get to try
it on the plane, but they advertise it as security safe.

I took a rope Spanish Farthingale and a corset boned with bamboo
skewers and two 1/2" bones to Australia last month, and security
didn't pester me - about that.  They stressed over my nail clippers,
but those didn't have a file, so they let me keep them.  Nail clippers
make passable thread cutters.

btw, the Aussies have some brilliant costumers, and put on a fun
CostumeCon.  I hope they can make CostumeCon next year.
   Deb
   The Mantua-Maker


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:23:56 -0600
Status: RO

At 10:18 AM 3/16/2002 -0800, you wrote:
> > >Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
> > >dimensions...  :)
> >
> > Depends on the size of your feet!  I know men who have foot-long
> > feet, but lots of women might well be no closer to a foot than
> > a decimeter.
> >
> >
>
>True - my feet are 8" long at best, but my handspan is almost exactly 20cm
>which is very handy (pun intended) :-P
>Claire

I've just discovered that my feet are 10" long.  Hm.  That could be pretty 
useful...

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:59:49 -0500
Status: RO

I'm not ignoring ya'll... I have the flu.  I will get back with you when I
am better.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:23:25 -0700
Status: RO

A couple of people have recommended the thread cutters you're talking
about, and I've actually seen them for sale locally.  My problem is, my
primary form of embroidery is itsy-bitsy blackwork, and for that, I need
my very sharp little embroidery scissors I spent *way* too much money
on.

I'd love to make it to a Costume Con.  They sound like loads of fun. 
Can't make much this year, but maybe 2003.....heck, by then, maybe I'll
actually have something done enough to wear.....
--Sue

"Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" wrote:
> 
> > --Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> > carryon luggage for her embroidery projects ...
> 
> Clothilda sells a Thread Cutter Pendant by Clover that looks like a
> necklace medallion.  It arrived after my trip, so I didn't get to try
> it on the plane, but they advertise it as security safe.
> 
> I took a rope Spanish Farthingale and a corset boned with bamboo
> skewers and two 1/2" bones to Australia last month, and security
> didn't pester me - about that.  They stressed over my nail clippers,
> but those didn't have a file, so they let me keep them.  Nail clippers
> make passable thread cutters.
> 
> btw, the Aussies have some brilliant costumers, and put on a fun
> CostumeCon.  I hope they can make CostumeCon next year.
>    Deb
>    The Mantua-Maker
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:52:02 -0600
Status: RO

Yet another shameless commercial plug for CostumeCon 21 in 2003- Yes,
please come!!! You have over a year to make those totally fabulous
outfits you've been planning for years.......Oh and if anyone has any
ideas for panels or workshops you'd like to attend/be part of, please let
me know!

Karen Bergquist
Programming Chair CC21




On Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:23:25 -0700 Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> I'd love to make it to a Costume Con.  They sound like loads of fun. 
> Can't make much this year, but maybe 2003.....heck, by then, maybe 
> I'll actually have something done enough to wear.....
> --Sue

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Subject: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:49:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> But, at least in Sweden, it's common to use an intermediate unit: the
> hectogram: 100 grams, which is a perfectly useful and convenient size.
>  I think the claim of superior usefulness for Imperial measures is
> just nonsensical, and a matter of what you're used to.

> Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.

Hectogram I'd heard of but had no idea what it is (or, for that 
matter, any concept of how much 100grams is in terms of how 
much something real wouod weigh)

Decimeter is completely new to me and sounds like something 
made-up for use on a low-budget SF show....<G>

Teddy
(grew up with the metric system taught in school and still can't use 
it -  yards, feet and inches are *real* measurements I can think, 
calculate *and* guesstimate in)

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:53:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might
> be fun to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in
> their costumes (finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You
> know, like riding down your ex and whacking his head off with a
> sword? 
 
Turning up to a school reunion and fraking all the small minded, 
small-town bastards I grew up with!

Teddy
(who will get the opportunity to do something similar in May when 
there's actually a re-enactment event in his home town... never 
thought he'd see the day)




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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 07:14:07 -0700
Status: RO

So where _is_ CostumeCon 21 being held? And when?
--Sue, slow on Monday mornings

seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> 
> Yet another shameless commercial plug for CostumeCon 21 in 2003- Yes,
> please come!!! You have over a year to make those totally fabulous
> outfits you've been planning for years.......Oh and if anyone has any
> ideas for panels or workshops you'd like to attend/be part of, please let
> me know!
> 
> Karen Bergquist
> Programming Chair CC21
> 
> On Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:23:25 -0700 Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> writes:
> > I'd love to make it to a Costume Con.  They sound like loads of fun.
> > Can't make much this year, but maybe 2003.....heck, by then, maybe
> > I'll actually have something done enough to wear.....
> > --Sue
> 
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:05:54 -0600
Status: RO

Hehehehe.....I thought folks on the list would be fed up with hearing me
plug the con already! Here's the link to our site. CostumeCon 21 is here
in beautiful, exotic Chicago, Illinois USA!


Karen



http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/

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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 06:30:10 -0800
Status: RO

 
> 
>Turning up to a school reunion and fraking all the small minded, 
>small-town bastards I grew up with!
>
>Teddy
>(who will get the opportunity to do something similar in May when 
>there's actually a re-enactment event in his home town... never 
>thought he'd see the day)


Ooh, parallel lives, Teddy!  In May there's going to be a Ren Faire in my
home town.  It should be interesting, even if I am going to hear "I
remember you, you were the one with the cape!" about nine gazillion times.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:56:55 -0500
Status: RO

Hello all!

I have really enjoyed your fantasies!  Mine always involve a Scotsman or
Viking, for some reason ...

Could someone please send me the URL for the corded body photos, and
references as to where to purchase the 1/4" hemp cord?

Also, there are a few fabric links on sewing.com - one is trimfabric.com
This site sells fabrics by the bolt at great prices ($2-3 yard) as well as
end cuts.  Worth a look.

Thanks!  Laurie


Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration's mission is to inspire people
everywhere to care about and protect our oceans by exploring and sharing
their biological, ecological and cultural treasures. The not-for-profit
Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration are divisions of Sea Research
Foundation, Inc.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Thread cutters
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:24:36 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Sue, I think someone has mentioned the circular thingy from Clotilde
> that is a thread cutter, but no sharp edges.  Also, I got a set of
> needle threaders at Joann's (in the quilting notions area) and these
> threaders have built in thread cutters on them (a notch with a tiny
> edge at the bottom).  The threaders are mostly plastic, just the tiny
> wires for threading and the less than 1 mm thread cutter are metal.
> 
> Sandy
> 
> >--Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> >carryon luggage for her embroidery projects [yes, I know I could put
> >them in my checked luggage, but a girl's gotta have *something* to
> >work on when she flies all the way across the U.S. and _then_ the
> >Atlantic Ocean <ggg>]

But, from what I hear, you won't be allowed to take the *needles* on 
as cary-on so having the thread cutter will bve pretty useless

Teddy
(still boggled that a friend who returned to CA from London in 
February had her *shoes* confiscated and destroyed because they 
had a bit of English mud on them.... and she wasn't even 
compensated for the loss of the shoes.  If it had been me there 
they'd have had an international incident in their airport!  In my book 
that's *theft*.)
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:28:24 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
My fantasy is not very peculiar. The danish lace guild is having a lace
day in august.
I have made arrangements with Castle Selsoe to come fully dressed in my
(hopefully finished embroidered costume) and demonstrate lace making.
I am travelling with train and bus, so i definately will not be dressed,
but i change at the castle. Not 10 wild horses would make me travel in
bus and train dressed like an 18th. century gentleman. I simply lack the
nervs to do such a thing.
When i was going to a ball at Stockholm last autumn, they suggested me
to take the bus fully dressed. Well the other members do that, but i
wouldnt have the nerve to do such a thing, a public bus? Gues i am very
shy, but......... They said that people in Stockholm is used to se the
members dressed in costume..

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:26:47 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I've just discovered that my feet are 10" long.  Hm.  That could be
> pretty useful...

Neat - that will be useful - thanks Danielle!

Teddy
(same size feet as Danielle)
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:31:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


 
> >Turning up to a school reunion and freaking all the small minded,
> >small-town bastards I grew up with!
> >
> >Teddy
> >(who will get the opportunity to do something similar in May when
> >there's actually a re-enactment event in his home town... never
> >thought he'd see the day)
> 
> 
> Ooh, parallel lives, Teddy!  In May there's going to be a Ren Faire in
> my home town.  It should be interesting, even if I am going to hear "I
> remember you, you were the one with the cape!" about nine gazillion
> times.
> 
> Margo

Go for it Margo!  Perhaps you can run a book on how many times 
they'll say it to you and award yourself a "reward" if you guess 
right....<G>

Teddy
(they're going to be using the school field of my old school as 
camping space!)
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:07:03 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


There's a Suzanne Vega song that feels like a costume fantasy to me, even
though there's only a hint of actual costume-related lyric, mostly in the 
opening lines:

  If I had met you on some journey, where would we be now?
  If we had met on some eastbound train, through some dark sleeping town?
  Would you have worn your silken robes all made of royal blue?
  Would I have dressed in smoke and fire, for you to see through?

Something about that image makes me want to put on something 1920-ish in
fluttery layers of red and black silk organza with silvery beaded trims,
and a mysterious hat loaded with black net veiling, and get on a train.
Trouble is, it's the wrong century for luxury train travel, and I no
longer have the figure for that type of clothing... And I don't even do
costumes from any period consistent with trains!

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Straw hat blanks?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:17:53 -0700
Status: RO

I am looking for a supplier of straw hat blanks for a class I will be
teaching.  Ideally they would have a very low crown (~1 inch tall) about
5 inches in diameter with at least an 18 inch brim.  I have seen some
Italian ones that are very finely woven, soft and pliable.  Any ideas?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straw hat blanks?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:33:40 -0700
Status: RO


If you're familiar with the company "Hat Matters", they seem to have a
lot of nice stuff.  They're always at Pennsic and other
costume-related events, but you can also reach them by email at
hatmatter@aol.com (note the lack of the 's' on matter in the email
address).  If they have the item in stock, you can send them a check
and they'll ship it to you.  One caveat - they're on the road a lot,
so things take longer than you're used to if they're away and not
reading email.

						...eliz

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:35:32 GMT
Status: RO

Saragrace Knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote :

> I am looking for a supplier of straw hat blanks for a class I will be
> teaching.  Ideally they would have a very low crown (~1 inch tall) about
> 5 inches in diameter with at least an 18 inch brim

Bad timing here: I saw something just like that at Blackbird Leys yesterday. But I wasn't interested, so I don't remember which supplier was selling them :(

List of traders at Blackbird Leys can be found here:

http://www.montacute.net/reenactors/traders.htm

but I'm afraid that's rather a long list.



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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 08:55:51 -0800
Status: RO

At 3:24 PM +0000 3/18/02, Teddy wrote:

>(still boggled that a friend who returned to CA from London in
>February had her *shoes* confiscated and destroyed because they
>had a bit of English mud on them.... and she wasn't even
>compensated for the loss of the shoes.  If it had been me there
>they'd have had an international incident in their airport!  In my book
>that's *theft*.)

(I'm interpreting "CA" here as California, although on reflection I 
suppose it could be Canada.)  I can see the situation from your point 
of view -- on the other hand, by law, "smuggling" foreign soil into 
the US is illegal (for good and valid reasons) and was even before 
the current hoof-and-mouth flap, so it could also be viewed as 
confiscating the instrument of an illegal act.  California is pretty 
fanatic about protecting our agricultural economy -- it's illegal for 
ordinary people to bring soil into California from another _state_ of 
the US (or to bring in fresh fruit, for that matter).  People are 
responsible for knowing these things.  So, from the individual point 
of view, confiscating and destroying shoes because they have 
potentially infected mud on them seems extreme, but from the larger 
point of view, you're balancing it against vast sums in 
crop/livestock losses and eradication programs.  (We've been there 
and done that with the Mediterranean fruit fly, and we're currently 
doing that with the glassy-winged sharpshooter.  I'd just as soon 
give hoof-and-mouth a miss.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 08:51:01 -0800
Status: RO


>
>Something about that image makes me want to put on something 1920-ish in
>fluttery layers of red and black silk organza with silvery beaded trims,
>and a mysterious hat loaded with black net veiling, and get on a train.
>Trouble is, it's the wrong century for luxury train travel, 


I believe the Orient Express is now running as a themed costume event, at
least on occasion.  My sister the 1930's chantuese has been trying to get
the piano bar gig on it for some time.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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In a message dated 3/18/2002 11:36:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
jane@williams.nildram.co.uk writes:


> > I am looking for a supplier of straw hat blanks for a class I will be
> > teaching.  Ideally they would have a very low crown (~1 inch tall) about
> > 5 inches in diameter with at least an 18 inch brim
> 

Hatcrafters is a great company that makes all kinds of hats for theatre and 
such. "Hatcrafters" is the felt form department but they have another 
division that does straw.....I just can't remember what it's called. Call 
Hatcrafters in PA at {610}623-2620 and ask how to get their straw hats. They 
are very nice and helpful people who want to give you what you want. They may 
even give you some kind of discount for bulk orders or educational stuff.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 3/18/2002 11:36:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, jane@williams.nildram.co.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt; I am looking for a supplier of straw hat blanks for a class I will be
<BR>&gt; teaching. &nbsp;Ideally they would have a very low crown (~1 inch tall) about
<BR>&gt; 5 inches in diameter with at least an 18 inch brim
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Hatcrafters is a great company that makes all kinds of hats for theatre and such. "Hatcrafters" is the felt form department but they have another division that does straw.....I just can't remember what it's called. Call Hatcrafters in PA at {610}623-2620 and ask how to get their straw hats. They are very nice and helpful people who want to give you what you want. They may even give you some kind of discount for bulk orders or educational stuff.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:01:09 EST
Status: RO

Hello to the list.

Is there an accessible archives location for messages from this list?  Thanks.

Nancy / Ingvild
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:39:36 -0800
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> > --Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> > carryon luggage for her embroidery projects ...
>
My solution (tested  so far on 3 plane trips) is to bring along dental
floss.  The dispenser cuts threads very well, and doesn't do too shabby a
job on yarn, either!

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA

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In a message dated 3/18/02 1:04:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
someone@eskimo.com writes:


> My solution (tested  so far on 3 plane trips) is to bring along dental
> floss.  The dispenser cuts threads very well, and doesn't do too shabby a
> job on yarn, either!
> 

       Now that is about as clever an idea as I have heard anyone come up 
with.  
Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/18/02 1:04:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, someone@eskimo.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">My solution (tested &nbsp;so far on 3 plane trips) is to bring along dental
<BR>floss. &nbsp;The dispenser cuts threads very well, and doesn't do too shabby a
<BR>job on yarn, either!
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Now that is about as clever an idea as I have heard anyone come up with. &nbsp;
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_66.1dc929ed.29c78c11_boundary--
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 14:00:55 -0600 (CST)
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On Mon, 18 Mar 2002 SNSpies@aol.com wrote:

> Is there an accessible archives location for messages from this list?  Thanks.

Below is a slightly updated version of the last post I made to answer
this (frequent) question. Clip and save!

==================

-- Method 1:
The indra server theoretically holds digests since the time we switched to
the mailman software. Obviously these don't go back very far. Use the
h-cost signup webpage and follow the archive links. Last time I looked,
however, very few posts had actually made it in there. It would be nice to
see this fixed, but I'm not holding my breath.

-- Method 2:
To search by keyword, use Eric Praetzel's searchable archive at:
	http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives
Eric made some changes to the search method a few months ago that speed
the search but reduce your ability to search. You can no longer search by
keyword in text, just by the poster's name and subject line ... not much
use for many of the sorts of questions I ask. But it's a start, and if you
know that one of the listmembers is an expert on some topic, you can
always search on his/her name and then follow subject lines once you find
useful threads. A bit more disturbing, when Eric tidied up the files to
eliminate extra headers, some of the text was lost from some postings; I
have found a few lines missing here and there from my old posts.
Eventually I realized that when a text line happened to include a colon
after the first word on that line, the software assumed that line was a
header and wiped it. If you find some odd breaks in a posting, that may be
the cause.

-- Method 3:
For older archives (1993-1996), go to Franchesca Havas' site at
http://www.io.com/~ches/h-costume/ . You can ftp or download zipped files.
I'm not sure if Ches has later archives too. I hope *someone* is keeping
them.

--Robin



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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 12:28:29 -0700
Status: RO

I travel a lot with my job and take pins and needles all the time.  I've
only been on an international flight to Canada since 9/11, but this is
what I do:

I take a paper napkin and stick a whole bunch of pins in it and a few
needles, wrap it flat in tin foil and put it in the bottom of a plastic
shoe box with my needle work.  I don't known if they don't see it, or
don't care, but I do it all the time and have never been questioned.  I
don't carry scissors however.  I do carry one of those little thread
cutters that fit on your finger-but I usually use my teeth anyway!!  I
was really bummed at first because I thought I wouldn't be able to think
of anything to take with me to work on, but I have butt loads of hand
sewing to do and embroidery.   I started basting stuff to sew later, but
then found out I could sew well enough not to have to go back and sew on
my machine!


I figure if they do say anything, I just loose a 20-50 pins and a few
needles.

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Subject: [h-cost] Tanning, Tawing, and Taxidermy?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:56:40 -0800
Status: RO

I'm delurking now that this whole thread has started, it's reminded me of a 
project that has long been on the back burner for me.  I used to be in 4H, 
in the rabbit project, and when we did our "culling" I always wanted to at 
least keep the pelts for later use.  (Ours were much better quality than the 
ones I could get at the crafts store, and rex fur to boot!) Can anyone out 
there imagine a rex-fur collar?  Or gloves, for that matter?  I know one 
lady made her godson a rex-fur teddy bear... it was amazing.

My only problem back then, and now is that I had no idea how to go about 
tanning the hides, despite the instructions for "tawing" that I found in the 
ARBA (American Rabbit Breeder's Assoc.) handbook.  Many of the instructions 
I've found contain things that I can't imagine getting anywhere in any 
useful quantity.  (*Battery acid*?!!?)

Does anyone out there have instructions on how to tan or taw small rabbit 
hides (as opposed to leather)?  Or recipies for tanning or tawing solutions 
whose ingridients are easy to come by?

-Laura

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 12:15:48 -0800
Status: RO


> >Turning up to a school reunion and fraking all the small minded,
> >small-town bastards I grew up with!
>
>Ooh, parallel lives, Teddy!  In May there's going to be a Ren Faire in my
>home town.  It should be interesting, even if I am going to hear "I
>remember you, you were the one with the cape!" about nine gazillion times.

I wouldn't have missed my ten-year reunion for an all expenses paid trip to 
the V&A.  I wore a leather jacket, blue jeans, a large belt knife, and 
great big platform shoes (reunion was in 1977).  I found out that the 
snobby ones had gotten snobbier, the good ones had stayed good, and many of 
the others had grown out of high-school mentality and had turned out OK.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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> From: "Kala Jathos" <matrixsinger@hotmail.com>
[...] 
> Does anyone out there have instructions on how to tan or taw small rabbit 
> hides (as opposed to leather)?  Or recipies for tanning or tawing solutions 
> whose ingridients are easy to come by?

There are tanning kits out there that specify "fur on".  The Leather Factory
sells two different tanning sets.  One is for regular leather, and one is
for pelts.  I don't have a catalogue handy right now, but the kit's supposed
to contain everything you need.  You might also want to check with Tandy
Leather.  Both companies are based in Texas, where plenty of folk still do
their own hunting and tanning.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:29:03 EST
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Boy, you guys are young.  My 50th high school reunion is coming in May, but I 
am not going.  I only went to that school for my senior year and never got 
very interested in any of the other students except the band members.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Boy, you guys are young. &nbsp;My 50th high school reunion is coming in May, but I am not going. &nbsp;I only went to that school for my senior year and never got very interested in any of the other students except the band members. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Curator job!
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 20:38:11 +0000
Status: RO

Hey, I just noticed this opening!  It's here at the University of 
Washington, located in confused Seattle Wa. where it's snowing...in mid 
-March!

Anyone interested?

http://www.washington.edu/admin/employment/2002archive/03-2002archive/RC16165.html

Gia

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:39:47 -0000
Status: RO

I just want to point out that the description states this position is only for UW employees, so won't do much good unless you already work there.

Margretta



> "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Hey, I just noticed this opening!  It's here at the University of 
> Washington, located in confused Seattle Wa. where it's snowing...in mid 
> -March!
> 
> Anyone interested?
> 
> http://www.washington.edu/admin/employment/2002archive/03-2002archive/RC16165.html
> 
> Gia
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tanning, Tawing, and Taxidermy?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:07:55 +0000
Status: RO

For those of us new to the subject, what's the difference between tanning
and tawing?


				Arlys


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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:44:16 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I just want to ask, if there are others who has tryed this:
I am planning to make a robe a la francaise. I want to embroider it.
There will be an embroidered stomacher, embroidered panels at the split
open overskirt and embroidery on the underskirt front. I want to make
some guirlandes with embroidered roses.
It will be a long lasting project like the suit i am making for myself.
Now the cost of materials will be quite expensive, i want to make the
entire dress in silk taffeta. And all the embroidery threads are
expensive silks two, including the expensive silk chenille from
Hedgehog.
Well i dont have anybody to make this dress for, and therefore i was
thinking about making a standard size ( a small 38 ) The dress includes
a pair of stays and a panier.
Do you think i would be able to sell it on ebay?
I know i would never be payed equal to the time consuming task to make
it, but i should at least have my expenses + about  800 dollars.
Do you think this would be possible?
I simply just must make that dress i have in my head....................

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:03:17 EST
Status: RO


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Bjarne, 

There is a good chance you will eventually be able to sell it on ebay, but it 
may not go the first go round, since it's a pricier item.  Just make sure to 
let me/us know when you are putting it on line and we here at h-cost can 
fight over it!  We'll get the price right up there for ya (ha ha).

I've seen 20s dresses in not so good shape go for $350 plus on the average. 
What you should do is watch comparable goodies and see what they sell for and 
get an idea of what the market will bear shortly before putting it up.  You 
can always start it at your cost with no reserve and wait.... I don't know 
the current market for repro of period clothing, so I can't be sure but there 
is a market for the genuine article in bad condition, so I would imagine 
folks would pay a lot for something you'd created with all that handwork. You 
may just have to be patient.  Also, timing is everything.  You might try 
putting it up just before Halloween (with an eye toward the nicer costumed 
events, not trick or treat), or perhaps in the spring for a wedding.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
W. Shakespeare

In a message dated 3/18/2002 1:48:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:


> Do you think i would be able to sell it on ebay?
> I know i would never be payed equal to the time consuming task to make
> it, but i should at least have my expenses + about  800 dollars.
> Do you think this would be possible?
> I simply just must make that dress i have in my head....................

--part1_189.508cebd.29c7be25_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Bjarne, <BR>
<BR>
There is a good chance you will eventually be able to sell it on ebay, but it may not go the first go round, since it's a pricier item.&nbsp; Just make sure to let me/us know when you are putting it on line and we here at h-cost can fight over it!&nbsp; We'll get the price right up there for ya (ha ha).<BR>
<BR>
I've seen 20s dresses in not so good shape go for $350 plus on the average. What you should do is watch comparable goodies and see what they sell for and get an idea of what the market will bear shortly before putting it up.&nbsp; You can always start it at your cost with no reserve and wait.... I don't know the current market for repro of period clothing, so I can't be sure but there is a market for the genuine article in bad condition, so I would imagine folks would pay a lot for something you'd created with all that handwork. You may just have to be patient.&nbsp; Also, timing is everything.&nbsp; You might try putting it up just before Halloween (with an eye toward the nicer costumed events, not trick or treat), or perhaps in the spring for a wedding.<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"Do you not know I am a woman?.&nbsp; When I think, I must speak."<BR>
W. Shakespeare<BR>
<BR>
In a message dated 3/18/2002 1:48:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Do you think i would be able to sell it on ebay?<BR>
I know i would never be payed equal to the time consuming task to make<BR>
it, but i should at least have my expenses + about&nbsp; 800 dollars.<BR>
Do you think this would be possible?<BR>
I simply just must make that dress i have in my head....................</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:13:58 -0500
Status: RO

Always an interest in that one......... but scheduling is another story.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 5:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)


At 01:49 AM 3/17/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
>for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!  Richmond has so much
>fun stuff to do, I think you should make it a weekend event. Hmm,
>there’s the Valentine, the Museum of the Confederacy, EA Poe, the Fine
>Arts Museum, ….what else am I forgetting?  The restaurants and night
>life aren't too shabby either!  And of course, Williamsburg is only
>about 45 minutes away, so we'll HAVE to go there too!
>
>Linda
>

I could work out a "behind the Scenes" at Williamsburg, if there was an
interest.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:21:49 -0600
Status: RO

Where is it?  Chicago-Chicago, that toddlin' town!!


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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:20:08 EST
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       I agree that you should be able to get a decent price for your work on 
dBay, but I do not agree that you should put it up with no reserve.  Use the 
reserve.  In case you don't get a decent bid you don't have to accept it.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I agree that you should be able to get a decent price for your work on dBay, but I do not agree that you should put it up with no reserve. &nbsp;Use the reserve. &nbsp;In case you don't get a decent bid you don't have to accept it.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_63.851f38c.29c7c218_boundary--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:33:08 -0500
Status: RO

Between high school graduation and my ten year re-union, I lost about twenty
pounds. I wore a dress that was super-tight to the waist and laced up the
back, with a rather full skirt, and throughly enjoyed seeing all the
cheerleaders who had gotten fat!

Dianne


> I wouldn't have missed my ten-year reunion for an all expenses paid trip
to
> the V&A.  I wore a leather jacket, blue jeans, a large belt knife, and
> great big platform shoes (reunion was in 1977).  I found out that the
> snobby ones had gotten snobbier, the good ones had stayed good, and many
of
> the others had grown out of high-school mentality and had turned out OK.
>
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Millinery Supplies
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:48:18 -0600
Status: RO

I use
MANNY'S MILLINERY SUPPLY CENTER
26 West 38th St., New York, NY 10018, (212) 840-2235, (212) 840-2236, (212) 944-0178 fax

I do not know if they currently have what you are looking for.  But they do have a catalog 
you can request.
they are reasonalby priced and ship fairly fast.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 18:43:46 -0500
Status: RO


Come now, Teddy! It's not that hard:

millimeter
centimenter
decimeter
meter
dekameter
hectometer
kilometer

Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same increments of
measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.

I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour would be (partly
because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). But I have to admit it
has a nice orderliness to it. I know how much a cup of flour is. But how
much is a quart? I always have to look it up.

Gail Finke


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: mud in California
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 18:47:07 -0500
Status: RO


glassy-winged sharpshooter???

Gail Finke

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From: Joe Cool <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt -- Robe Francaise
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:16:46 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi.
> I just want to ask, if there are others who has tryed this:
> I am planning to make a robe a la francaise. I want to
> embroider it.
> There will be an embroidered stomacher, embroidered panels at
> the split
> open overskirt and embroidery on the underskirt front. I want
> to make some guirlandes with embroidered roses.

You amaze me.  I have the same "I want". This has to be the 3rd
time we've done this.  *laughing*  I even bought the fabric as I
want my embroidered gown on a striped silk ground.  Since I dont
embroider, I was planning on using the embroidery machine.  As
usual, I have no place to wear it, really.  Just wanting it.

Same thing happened with the 1740's man's suit.  He doesnt have
anyplace to wear it, but it looks good so far.  (Waiting for the
ruffled linen shirt to arrive.)

As for your question, I dont know.  I've neither bought nor sold
via Ebay.

--cin
formerly known as "Cynthia in Tokyo"


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Subject: OT: Re: [h-cost] Re: mud in California
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:28:54 -0800
Status: RO

on 3/18/02 3:47 PM, Gail & Scott Finke at gailscott@eos.net wrote:

> 
> glassy-winged sharpshooter???
> 

It's a bug.  To me, it looks a lot like a lacewing/may fly sort of critter.
It's currently destroying grape crops up and down the state in a big way.
The wine industry is being pretty hard hit at the moment...

Sarah

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 18 21:39:56 2002
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:28:55 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hi All!
  I recently was watching "The Return of Martin
Guerre" (1982) with Gerard Depardieu  for a class.  It
takes place in 15c France and is all in French. The
American movie "Summersby" with Jodi Foster was based
off of it.
  I thought the costumes looked pretty good, and was
wondering if anyone else had seen this and had an
opinion.

Thanks!
Sheila

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] archives?
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:28:32 +1200
Status: RO

> -- Method 1:
> The indra server theoretically holds digests since the time we switched to
> the mailman software. Obviously these don't go back very far. Use the
> h-cost signup webpage and follow the archive links. Last time I looked,
> however, very few posts had actually made it in there. It would be nice to
> see this fixed, but I'm not holding my breath.

I cannot access them at all. Today I got:
Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /pipermail/h-costume/ on this server.

last time it was a 404 error message, so I have no idea how to view the
recent archives. Signing in didn't help last time either. Is the url correct
on the page for the new archives?
http://mail.indra.com/pipermail/h-costume/

michaela

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:06:00 -0800
Status: RO

At 6:47 PM -0500 3/18/02, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>glassy-winged sharpshooter???
>
>Gail Finke

Major recent vineyard pest.

Heather
-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt -- Robe Francaise
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:18:21 -0700
Status: RO

Striped silk???? Oooooh.....drooooooollll......
Wherever did you find striped silk suitable for the 18th century??
I want a sacque dress so bad I can hardly stand it.....Hadn't thought
much about the embroidery for the dress itself (since I don't really do
much surface embroidery), but I was really hoping to do the sleeve
ruffles (not sure of correct term here) in very fine linen with some of
that marvelous danish pulled-thread work.....now *that* stuff I can
do..... <gg>....Hmmmm....maybe I could work some sort of trade with
Bjarne.....
--Sue, mourning the fact that she'll probably never be a size 38 (what's
that in American sizes? A 10? smaller? larger?), so she'd never be able
to put in a decent bid for Bjarne's dress.....*sigh*.....

Cynthia-formerly-from-Tokyo wrote:
> 
> --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> > Hi.
> > I just want to ask, if there are others who has tryed this:
> > I am planning to make a robe a la francaise. I want to
> > embroider it.
> > There will be an embroidered stomacher, embroidered panels at
> > the split
> > open overskirt and embroidery on the underskirt front. I want
> > to make some guirlandes with embroidered roses.
> 
> You amaze me.  I have the same "I want". This has to be the 3rd
> time we've done this.  *laughing*  I even bought the fabric as I
> want my embroidered gown on a striped silk ground.  Since I dont
> embroider, I was planning on using the embroidery machine.  As
> usual, I have no place to wear it, really.  Just wanting it.
> 
> Same thing happened with the 1740's man's suit.  He doesnt have
> anyplace to wear it, but it looks good so far.  (Waiting for the
> ruffled linen shirt to arrive.)
> 
> As for your question, I dont know.  I've neither bought nor sold
> via Ebay.
> 
> --cin
> formerly known as "Cynthia in Tokyo"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 18 22:26:35 2002
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:20:50 -0700
Status: RO

When I traveled last November, I didn't have any problems with the
embroidery needles, although I'd checked in advance.  Just anything
cutting-ish.  Oh, and corkscrews, which I thought was a pretty weird
one.
Gawd, Teddy, I'd go completely bonkers if I had to stay embroidery-free
all the way to and from England.....
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> 
> > Sue, I think someone has mentioned the circular thingy from Clotilde
> > that is a thread cutter, but no sharp edges.  Also, I got a set of
> > needle threaders at Joann's (in the quilting notions area) and these
> > threaders have built in thread cutters on them (a notch with a tiny
> > edge at the bottom).  The threaders are mostly plastic, just the tiny
> > wires for threading and the less than 1 mm thread cutter are metal.
> >
> > Sandy
> >
> > >--Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> > >carryon luggage for her embroidery projects [yes, I know I could put
> > >them in my checked luggage, but a girl's gotta have *something* to
> > >work on when she flies all the way across the U.S. and _then_ the
> > >Atlantic Ocean <ggg>]
> 
> But, from what I hear, you won't be allowed to take the *needles* on
> as cary-on so having the thread cutter will bve pretty useless
> 
> Teddy
> (still boggled that a friend who returned to CA from London in
> February had her *shoes* confiscated and destroyed because they
> had a bit of English mud on them.... and she wasn't even
> compensated for the loss of the shoes.  If it had been me there
> they'd have had an international incident in their airport!  In my book
> that's *theft*.)
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:02:35 -0500
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--------------5C84A6105980D9B8A1778D7F
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Thanks, found it at the bottom of the page!  Mike T.


>
>
> Ramona's reference should read 'page 56' for both the current Ruth
> Bean edition and the earlier 1973 edition (out of print since the
> early 1980s).

--------------5C84A6105980D9B8A1778D7F
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
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<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
Thanks, found it at the bottom of the page!&nbsp; Mike T.
<br>&nbsp;
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>
<div dir=ltr 
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;</div>
<font size=-1>Ramona's reference should read 'page 56' for both the current
Ruth Bean edition and the earlier 1973 edition (out of print since the
early 1980s).</font>&nbsp;</blockquote>

</body>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 18 23:50:25 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tanning, Tawing, and Taxidermy?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:30:28 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. In short, tanning requires the use of some form of tannin, found in
many vegetable products such as oak bark, sumac and good old tea. Tawing,
also called whittawing, because the hides and skins become whitish, uses alum
as it's main ingredient. Some good references are;  East Midlands Industrial
Archaeology Conference Proceedings pamphlet #27 "Leather Manufacture through
the Ages" by S. Thomas, L.A. Clarkson and R. Thomson Oct 1983 (no ISBN) and
"Leather and the Warrior"  by John W. Waterer 1981 The Scolar Press ISBN
0-9504182-1-8 Waterer's bibliography in the aforementioned book also contains
other good sources of information.  Mike T.

Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> For those of us new to the subject, what's the difference between tanning
> and tawing?
>
>                                 Arlys
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 00:18:11 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] archives?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:25:15 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 19 Mar 2002, michaela wrote:

> > The indra server theoretically holds digests since the time we switched to
> > the mailman software. Obviously these don't go back very far. Use the
> > h-cost signup webpage and follow the archive links. Last time I looked,
> > however, very few posts had actually made it in there. It would be nice to
> > see this fixed, but I'm not holding my breath.
> 
> I cannot access them at all. Today I got:
> Forbidden
> You don't have permission to access /pipermail/h-costume/ on this server.
> 
> last time it was a 404 error message, so I have no idea how to view the
> recent archives. Signing in didn't help last time either. Is the url correct
> on the page for the new archives?
> http://mail.indra.com/pipermail/h-costume/

Frankly, last time I saw them there was hardly anything there. I sincerely
doubt there's been much change, assuming they exist at all anymore.
Perhaps our listowner Elizabeth knows something more about this, but I
haven't spent much time worrying about it; I personally rely on Eric's
archive.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:21:33 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Just got my David Brown/Oxbow Books catalog and wanted to point out
a few books that might be of interest to some on the list.
"The Devil's Cloth: a History of stripes and striped fabric" by Michel
Pastoureau 2001 Columbia UP 0231123663 (I suppose this is the ISBN?) $22.95
BP 16.95
"Treading in the Past; Sandals of the Anisazi" ed. Kathy Kankainen 1995 Utah
UP $9.98 on sale through David Brown Books (US dist. for Oxbow) Hope this is
of some interest to someone... Mike T.



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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 20:55:57 -0800
Status: RO


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Well shoot!  I know that there are some folks here that do work at the UW=
.

Thank you for pointing this out..

Gia

----- Original Message -----
From: mdevries@sunflower.com
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 1:59 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: re: [h-cost] Curator job!

I just want to point out that the description states this position is onl=
y for UW employees, so won't do much good unless you already work there.

Margretta



> "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Hey, I just noticed this opening!  It's here at the University of
> Washington, located in confused Seattle Wa. where it's snowing...in mid
> -March!
>
> Anyone interested?
>
> http://www.washington.edu/admin/employment/2002archive/03-2002archive/R=
C16165.html
>
> Gia
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world=E2=80=99s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Well shoot!&nb=
sp; I know that there are some folks here that do work at the UW.</DIV> <=
DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Thank you for pointing this out..</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;=
</DIV> <DIV>Gia</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGH=
T: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px sol=
id; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Me=
ssage -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; CO=
LOR: black"><B>From:</B> mdevries@sunflower.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT:=
 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, March 18, 2002 1:59 PM</DIV> <DIV style=
=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"=
FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Cc:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT=
: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> re: [h-cost] Curator job!</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;=
</DIV>I just want to point out that the description states this position =
is only for UW employees, so won't do much good unless you already work t=
here.<BR><BR>Margretta<BR><BR><BR><BR>&gt; "Gia Gavino" &lt;giagavino@msn=
.com&gt; wrote:<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Hey, I just noticed this opening!&nbsp; I=
t's here at the University of<BR>&gt; Washington, located in confused Sea=
ttle Wa. where it's snowing...in mid<BR>&gt; -March!<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Anyo=
ne interested?<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; http://www.washington.edu/admin/employment=
/2002archive/03-2002archive/RC16165.html<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Gia<BR>&gt;<BR>&=
gt; _________________________________________________________________<BR>=
&gt; Join the world=E2=80=99s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.<BR=
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t;<BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costume mailin=
g list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listi=
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 00:22:24 -0600
Status: RO

At 03:26 PM 3/18/2002 +0000, you wrote:

> > I've just discovered that my feet are 10" long.  Hm.  That could be
> > pretty useful...
>
>Neat - that will be useful - thanks Danielle!
>
>Teddy
>(same size feet as Danielle)

LOL!  I actually got out the ruler to measure them... : )  Oh, and it's 
good thing they didn't check my suitcases because my green shoes were quite 
muddy and I sure wouldn't have wanted them confiscated.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 02:38:20 2002
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From: "Linda Walton" <linda@sapiens.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 06:23:50 -0000
Status: RO

For those whose fantasies take them that little bit further . . .

I've just come across these two places, which can be hired as holiday
cottages, quite cheaply:-

Medieval Longhouse
http://www.helpfulholidays.com/property.asp?ref=J315S

Tudor wing
http://www.helpfulholidays.com/property.asp?ref=J316S

They are both part of the same building which, if hired as a whole, will
sleep twelve people.  Just imagine trying the effect of wearing historic
costume in really authentic surroundings for a whole week or longer.  By the
way, although all the buildings are in their original form, the kitchen and
bathroom fittings and the beds are modern.

(Note:  I have no connection with the company, but have done business with
them before, and find that they really live up to their name!)

Linda Walton,
in sunny Buckinghamshire, U.K.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 02:42:17 2002
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:27:00 -0800
Status: RO

I always just put the least I'm willing to accept as the minimum.  I don't 
even look at auctions with reserves because I don't want to play guessing 
games to go shopping.  I put a buy-it-now price that I think is top end of 
the value and a starting bid I can live with so people know what they're 
bidding on without the whole "how much is the reserve?" hassles.  Just my 
Ebay $.02.

Jennifer
Distant Designs
http://www.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi


>From: LalahTT@aol.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt
>Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:20:08 EST
>
>        I agree that you should be able to get a decent price for your work 
>on
>dBay, but I do not agree that you should put it up with no reserve.  Use 
>the
>reserve.  In case you don't get a decent bid you don't have to accept it.
>
>Lalah
>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
>
>







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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 02:40:45 -0500
Status: RO

Well, I enjoy the reserve option in some cases, especially items of debatable
value, because it allows the bidder the option of bidding without having to
commit to the item if the reserve turns out to be more than they would want to
pay. But I do think the reserve should be reasonable in relation to the starting
price. "Brand New Prada purse" starting at $2.00 with a reserve of $200, is
not a very clever attempt to lure in bidders. Yeah, I guess it only works when
the value of the object is questionable; could be $10-could be $100-who knows?
Bid and find out..Now eBay has the 'buy it now' option if you don't even want to
bother with the "fun" of an online auction.
Deb




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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] things you fantasize to do in costume
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:47:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I am travelling with train and bus, so i definately will not be
> dressed, but i change at the castle. Not 10 wild horses would make
> me travel in bus and train dressed like an 18th. century gentleman.
> I simply lack the nervs to do such a thing. When i was going to a
> ball at Stockholm last autumn, they suggested me to take the bus
> fully dressed. Well the other members do that, but i wouldnt have
> the nerve to do such a thing, a public bus? Gues i am very shy,
> but......... They said that people in Stockholm is used to se the
> members dressed in costume.. 

Hi Bjarne

You should try it some time when you are with a group of others 
also dressed in costume, that  way you can *ease* into it without 
feeling that you're all alone and the only one in costume.

Teddy
(Who has been known to travel right across the country by public 
transport in costume to get to an event... not to mention alone on 
the London underground in Rocky Horror costume on the way to 
and from the theatre to see the show)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Thread cutters
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:52:42 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> So, from the individual point of view, confiscating and destroying
> shoes because they have potentially infected mud on them seems
> extreme, but from the larger point of view, you're balancing it
> against vast sums in crop/livestock losses and eradication
> programs. 

I still think it's nuts.  England had already been declared free of Foot-
and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have 
*cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if 
they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss 
of the shoes.... absolutely NUTS

Teddy


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:09:16 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Come now, Teddy! It's not that hard:
> 
> millimeter
> centimenter
> decimeter
> meter
> dekameter
> hectometer
> kilometer
> 
> Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same
> increments of measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.
> 
> I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour would be
> (partly because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). 

But that's the problem.  I can guestimate a pound of something, I 
wouldn't have a clue for *any of the ones in your list.

> But I have to admit it has a nice orderliness to it. I know how
> much a cup of flour is. 

We have different sized cups here.   An English "standard cup" is 
different from an American one...<g>

> But how much is a quart? I always have to look it up. 

Not a measurement used in England either.
 
Similar to English people being weighed in "stones" - each stone 
being 14 pounds, so American people's weights seem awfully high 
to us because we'd have to devide the number of pounds by 14 to 
get it into stones so we could understand it.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Thread cutters
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:12:53 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> When I traveled last November, I didn't have any problems with the
> embroidery needles, although I'd checked in advance.  Just
> anything cutting-ish.  Oh, and corkscrews, which I thought was a
> pretty weird one. Gawd, Teddy, I'd go completely bonkers if I had
> to stay embroidery-free all the way to and from England..... --sue 

Uh-oh!  That could be dangerous information for me.  It means I 
*can* still count on the flight to Chicago for costume con being 
"available" sewing time for finishing off costumes.....

Teddy
(who has been known to finish sewing costumes five minutes 
*after* he should have been presenting them on-stage... it's a good 
thing Masquerades always run late)
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 22:15:57 +1200
Status: RO

> Teddy
> (Who has been known to travel right across the country by public
> transport in costume to get to an event... not to mention alone on
> the London underground in Rocky Horror costume on the way to
> and from the theatre to see the show)


I trecked from the Hyde Park in to Her Majesty's in London and across
København in the wedding dress from Phantom of the Opera, as well as cautch
a taxi in Hamburg in the same dress.
http://recital.tripod.com/costume/weddingdress.htm
But then again I do still dress up for Halloween (actually just started,
took a long time to catch on here in NZ).

Rocky Horror is going to be performed here later this year, and I was so
geared up to go, but Kevin Smith was supposed to play Frank, and now he is
dead. So sad, I don't think they have yet decided who will replace him.

michaela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:19:02 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >(same size feet as Danielle)
> 
> LOL!  I actually got out the ruler to measure them... : ) 

Which means I don't need to bother measuring mine...<G>

> Oh, and it's good thing they didn't check my suitcases because my
> green shoes were quite muddy and I sure wouldn't have wanted them
> confiscated. 

Tut-tut, and it's the same Norfolk Countryside mud as Seanan had 
on hers.  Expect the sound of sirens and theauthorities to be 
battering down your doors in the middle of the night... Perhaps 
they'll put the area around St Paul into quarantine until everyone 
and everything has been thoroughly disinfected (or burnt?).

Or perhaps they aren't as bothered in MN as they are in California... 
<snortle!>

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:27:14 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> For those whose fantasies take them that little bit further . . .
> 
> I've just come across these two places, which can be hired as holiday
> cottages, quite cheaply:-
> 
> Medieval Longhouse
> http://www.helpfulholidays.com/property.asp?ref=J315S
> 
> Tudor wing
> http://www.helpfulholidays.com/property.asp?ref=J316S
> 
> They are both part of the same building which, if hired as a whole,
> will sleep twelve people.  Just imagine trying the effect of wearing
> historic costume in really authentic surroundings for a whole week or
> longer.  By the way, although all the buildings are in their original
> form, the kitchen and bathroom fittings and the beds are modern.
> 
> (Note:  I have no connection with the company, but have done business
> with them before, and find that they really live up to their name!)

Hi Linda,

That's not uncommon.  A friend of mine (current President of the 
Costume Guild UK) and her husband regularly rent historical 
buildings for their holidays, they're both costumers and he's a 
photographer.  They often invite costumer friends to stay with them 
so they can do costume photo shoots with spectacular parts of the 
buildings as backdrops. 

Strangely enough, however, she's only recently got into historic 
costume.  Up until then they were all science-fiction or fantasy.  
Most of the ones designed and made for her by her husband 
involving very little costume and a lot of body paint - often with 
wings of some sort...

Teddy
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:44:49 -0800
Status: RO



Teddy wrote:

> > So, from the individual point of view, confiscating and destroying
> > shoes because they have potentially infected mud on them seems
> > extreme, but from the larger point of view, you're balancing it
> > against vast sums in crop/livestock losses and eradication
> > programs.
>
> I still think it's nuts.  England had already been declared free of Foot-
> and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have
> *cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if
> they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss
> of the shoes.... absolutely NUTS

That's what they did when we moved to New Zealand (from the UK). When our
stuff came off the boat the custom guys came around, and cleaned every little

bit of grass and dirt off the lawnmower, the tent etc, put it in little
plastic bags and
took it away. Now that's service....
Claire
(On the other hand they very nearly didn't let us into the country on account
of
our family being too large...)

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 05:43:41 -0700
Status: RO


Yes, unfortunately, the Indra.com archives aren't working.  The
auto-archive worked for a few weeks after we switched mailing software
in July, but the sysadmin and I can't figure out why it broke and
Eric's archives are more accessible (as in you can search), so I think
I'm finally going to just punt and remove the mention of Indra
archives from the list page and point people to Eric's site.

						...eliz

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Thread cutters
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:34:46 +0100
Status: RO


>But, from what I hear, you won't be allowed to take the *needles* on
>as cary-on so having the thread cutter will bve pretty useless

I don't know about on flights, but we went to the US Embassy in Brussels 
last week, and despite pretty thorough security, I was able to bring in my 
needle for my cross-stitch.  When we flew back to the US for Christmas, I 
asked one check-in agent about needles, and she said as long as something 
wasn't on the list, it was OK.  I suspect it probably varies depending on 
the official person and his or her mood.  I know out security check at the 
Embassy (for myself, my husband, our 15 month old, and a stroller with a 
full shopping basket) got a little rushed through at the end because there 
was one person doing all the security checks, and the line behind us was 
growing.  I suspect it's all the luck (or lack thereof) of the draw.

Kimberly

Kimberly Ellerthorpe	       	                    kre226@skynet.be
http://kimberlyrose.freeservers.com/home.htm
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:31:45 +0000
Status: RO

Replying to Gail and Teddy:

> millimeter
> centimenter
> decimeter
> meter
> dekameter
> hectometer
> kilometer
> 
> Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same
> increments of measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.
> 
> I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour would be
> (partly because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). 

100 grams is roughly 4 oz. We learned all these units at school but
I've never heard deci-, deka- or hecto- ones actually used. 

>We have different sized cups here.   An English "standard cup" is 
>different from an American one...<g>

I don't even know what an English standard cup is; most of our recipes
require you to measure dry ingredients by weight. I know an American cup
is 8 fluid ounces. What I can't understand is how you measure fats by
volume. Perhaps it's a question of learning to guesstimate?

>> But how much is a quart? I always have to look it up. 

>Not a measurement used in England either.

Oh, yes it is! It's two pints, though, admittedly, seldom referred to
nowadays. 
Four quarts = 1 gallon

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:09:30 -0600
Status: RO

I recently had an interesting experience in the subtle differences
between British and American measurements. I was trying to make English
style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English cuisine) and
my first attempt turned out extremely runny and unpalatable although I am
a good cook and followed the directions on the tin exactly. My English
friend then informed me that tablespoons are significantly bigger in
England and that an English pint is actually 20oz not 16oz as it is in
America. Once I used the English measurements he gave me (English
tablespoons are HUGE!!!), the custard turned out fine. I still think it's
weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
American, what do I know?


Karen 

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:21:09 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 3/19/02 5:08:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 
writes:


> I still think it's nuts.  England had already been declared free of Foot-
> and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have 
> *cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if 
> they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss 
> 

       I have to agree with Teddy.  Paranoia is an ugly thing and this 
country is going a bit overboard these days.  We will be lucky if we don't 
end up in a dictatorship in the next couple of years at the rate we are going 
right now.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/19/02 5:08:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I still think it's nuts. &nbsp;England had already been declared free of Foot-
<BR>and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have 
<BR>*cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if 
<BR>they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss 
<BR>of the shoes.... absolutely NUTS</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I have to agree with Teddy. &nbsp;Paranoia is an ugly thing and this country is going a bit overboard these days. &nbsp;We will be lucky if we don't end up in a dictatorship in the next couple of years at the rate we are going right now.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming "Stylish Ladies" exhibit
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:22:32 EST
Status: RO

Hello everyone,

>From April 6 to June 2, 2002, the Durham Western Heritage Museum in Omaha NE 
will have an exhibit titled "Stylish Ladies".  There's not much information 
on the website yet, but I was down there the other day for the Lewis and 
Clark exhibit and the woman at the front counter said it will include dresses 
from the 1860's to the 1960's.

It's in one of the smaller galleries, not the big one used for travelling 
exhibits, but if you're going to be in the area you might want to check it 
out.

Oh, yeah, the website for further information -- http://www.dwhm.org

Leah
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:41:38 GMT
Status: RO

Seamstrix@juno.com wrote :

> ...I was trying to make English
> style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
> hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English cuisine) ....I still think it's
> weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
> American, what do I know?

Think of it as "instant custard sauce". Like those packet mixes of Hollandaise sauce and so on, but bought in bulk. A few of us still know how to make "real" custard, but life is too short to stir eggs over a gentle heat when you can go "powder, milk, microwave, 3 min".





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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 20:59:38 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:21 PM -0500 3/18/02, leigh tartaglio wrote:
>Hi, All. Just got my David Brown/Oxbow Books catalog and wanted to point out
>a few books that might be of interest to some on the list.
>"The Devil's Cloth: a History of stripes and striped fabric" by Michel
>Pastoureau 2001 Columbia UP 0231123663 (I suppose this is the ISBN?) $22.95
>BP 16.95

Pastoureau writes on some fascinating topics -- he has a new book on 
about the social history of the color blue -- but some of his 
philosophical positions (to say nothing about his tendency towards 
peculiarly fixed ideas) set my teeth on edge.  "The Devil's Cloth" 
reads like the book of a man who designed a conclusion and then went 
looking for data to support it.  Great pictures, though!

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] things you fantasize to do in costume
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:54:30 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> I trecked from the Hyde Park in to Her Majesty's in London and
> across København in the wedding dress from Phantom of the Opera, as
> well as cautch a taxi in Hamburg in the same dress.
> http://recital.tripod.com/costume/weddingdress.htm But then again
> I do still dress up for Halloween (actually just started, took a
> long time to catch on here in NZ). 

Excellent!
 
> Rocky Horror is going to be performed here later this year, and I was
> so geared up to go, but Kevin Smith was supposed to play Frank, and
> now he is dead. So sad, I don't think they have yet decided who will
> replace him.

I hope you'll go to see it anyway... and in costume too!
 


Teddy

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N11 2NQ
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Goodness, is that how it goes?  I've been sort of following this thread, =
mostly deleting it, because..well, because I find it so weird to have dif=
ferent increments like this.

The names of the increments *sound* really orderly and logical, but I don=
't know the actual *physical* amount.  It's like languages.  And if you r=
eally think about it, It's about language.

So, is a millimeter equivalent to an 1/8 inch?  or is it smaller?  Or big=
ger?

*sigh*

I guess I have to just make sure I *never* lose my measuring tools that h=
ave both measuring systems on them.  Or (because I did a lot of deleting)=
 is there going to be another measurement system?

Gia/Giacinta
the math challenged

----- Original Message -----
From: Gail & Scott Finke
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 4:01 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: metric measurements


Come now, Teddy! It's not that hard:

millimeter
centimenter
decimeter
meter
dekameter
hectometer
kilometer

Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same increments o=
f
measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.

I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour would be (partly
because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). But I have to admit =
it
has a nice orderliness to it. I know how much a cup of flour is. But how
much is a quart? I always have to look it up.

Gail Finke


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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Goodness, is t=
hat how it goes?&nbsp; I've been sort of following this thread, mostly de=
leting it, because..well, because I find it so weird to have different in=
crements like this.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>The names of the increme=
nts *sound* really orderly and logical, but I don't know the actual *phys=
ical* amount.&nbsp; It's like languages.&nbsp; And if you really think ab=
out it, It's about language.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>So, is a millim=
eter equivalent to an 1/8 inch?&nbsp; or is it smaller?&nbsp; Or bigger?<=
/DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>*sigh*</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I guess =
I have to just make sure I *never* lose my measuring tools that have both=
 measuring systems on them.&nbsp; Or (because I did a lot of deleting) is=
 there going to be another measurement system?</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <D=
IV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DIV>the math challenged</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <B=
LOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5p=
x; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT=
: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND=
: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Gail &amp; Scott =
Finke</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, March 18=
, 2002 4:01 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume=
@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost]=
 Re: metric measurements</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><BR>Come now, Teddy! It's=
 not that hard:<BR><BR>millimeter<BR>centimenter<BR>decimeter<BR>meter<BR=
>dekameter<BR>hectometer<BR>kilometer<BR><BR>Substitute grams or liters f=
or meters, and you have the same increments of<BR>measurement. So a hecto=
gram is 100 grams.<BR><BR>I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, sa=
y, flour would be (partly<BR>because I have no idea how much a gram of fl=
our is). But I have to admit it<BR>has a nice orderliness to it. I know h=
ow much a cup of flour is. But how<BR>much is a quart? I always have to l=
ook it up.<BR><BR>Gail Finke<BR><BR><BR>_________________________________=
______________<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>h=
ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></=
HTML>

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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> >> But how much is a quart? I always have to look it up. 
> 
> >Not a measurement used in England either.
> 
> Oh, yes it is! It's two pints, though, admittedly, seldom referred to
> nowadays. Four quarts = 1 gallon

Really?  Thanks Kate!  I've never heard of it being used here before 
though I've come across plenty of references to it in American films 
and TV shows.

Teddy
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As an american, the instant lifestyle is really getting to be so universa=
l.  I still have folks who are amazed that I love to cook from scratch...=
but that's ok.  I have a really good reason!  My youngest has food allerg=
ies and the best way to make sure the food doesn't have what she's allerg=
ic to, is to make it from scratch.

And a major bonus:  I find it usually *tastes* better.  To get this onto =
a costume note, I find it so satisfying to make food 'period' to eat whil=
e I and my family and friends enjoy the repast in costumes.  Feasts from =
another time, a wonderful respite from the hectic, crazy world to really =
unwind and indulge in crafts such as needlepoint, pottery or other things=
 while the food is cooking or to enjoy the company of my friends in the k=
itchen as we all do things for the feast.

That's sounds sooooo silly, but I gotta take my relief when and how I can=
...My life is crazy and horrible (at times) to need this.

Gia/Giacinta
----- Original Message -----
From: Jane Williams
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:58 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: Jane Williams
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements

Seamstrix@juno.com wrote :

> ...I was trying to make English
> style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
> hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English cuisine) .=
...I still think it's
> weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
> American, what do I know?

Think of it as "instant custard sauce". Like those packet mixes of Hollan=
daise sauce and so on, but bought in bulk. A few of us still know how to =
make "real" custard, but life is too short to stir eggs over a gentle hea=
t when you can go "powder, milk, microwave, 3 min".





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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <=
DIV>As an american, the instant lifestyle is really getting to be so univ=
ersal.&nbsp; I still have folks who are amazed that I love to cook from s=
cratch...but that's ok.&nbsp; I have a really good reason!&nbsp; My young=
est has food allergies and the best way to make sure the food doesn't hav=
e what she's allergic to, is to make it from scratch.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</=
DIV> <DIV>And a major bonus:&nbsp; I find it usually *tastes* better.&nbs=
p; To get this onto a costume note, I find it so satisfying to make food =
'period' to eat while I and my family and friends enjoy the repast in cos=
tumes.&nbsp; Feasts from another time, a wonderful respite from the hecti=
c, crazy world to really unwind and indulge in crafts such as needlepoint=
, pottery or other things while the food is cooking or to enjoy the compa=
ny of my friends in the kitchen as we all do things for the feast.</DIV> =
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>That's sounds sooooo silly, but I gotta take my re=
lief when and how I can...My life is crazy and horrible (at times) to nee=
d this.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=
=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT:=
 #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">-=
---- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT=
: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Jane Williams</DIV> <DIV style=3D=
"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:58 AM</DIV> <DI=
V style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV st=
yle=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Cc:</B> Jane Williams</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FON=
T: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] metric measurements</DIV> <DI=
V>&nbsp;</DIV>Seamstrix@juno.com wrote :<BR><BR>&gt; ...I was trying to m=
ake English<BR>&gt; style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarc=
h and is made with<BR>&gt; hot milk for those Americans who haven't exper=
ienced English cuisine) ....I still think it's<BR>&gt; weird to make some=
thing called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an<BR>&gt; American, wha=
t do I know?<BR><BR>Think of it as "instant custard sauce". Like those pa=
cket mixes of Hollandaise sauce and so on, but bought in bulk. A few of u=
s still know how to make "real" custard, but life is too short to stir eg=
gs over a gentle heat when you can go "powder, milk, microwave, 3 min".<B=
R><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>=
h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.c=
om/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:20:53 +0000 (GMT)
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Karen

True custard is made with eggs (even in England).  What you were making sounds like Bird's Custard
Powder, which is everyday type custard rather than the fancy egg custard, or at least it is in my
house.  Bird's was made by a Victorian gentleman whose wife was allergic to eggs and so couldn't
have custard.  He invented this egg free powder that you add to milk and hey presto instant
custard was born.  It's lovely stuff and my other half with happily eat a bowl of the stuff on its
own!

Strange though about the pints and tablespoons I assumed that they would be the same.  So how
large is an American tablespoon?

Rachel

 --- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > I recently had an interesting experience in the subtle
differences
> between British and American measurements. I was trying to make English
> style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
> hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English cuisine) and
> my first attempt turned out extremely runny and unpalatable although I am
> a good cook and followed the directions on the tin exactly. My English
> friend then informed me that tablespoons are significantly bigger in
> England and that an English pint is actually 20oz not 16oz as it is in
> America. Once I used the English measurements he gave me (English
> tablespoons are HUGE!!!), the custard turned out fine. I still think it's
> weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
> American, what do I know?
> 
> 
> Karen 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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<<So, is a millimeter equivalent to an 1/8 inch?  or is it smaller?  Or 
bigger?>>
 
       A millimeter is less than half of an eighth of an inch.  When you stop 
and think about it, the metric system is really easier than the inches and 
pints and teaspoons we use here in the US.  There are twelve inches in a foot 
and three feet in a yard.  There are ten millimeters in a centimeter and a 
hundred centimeters in a meter.  Then when you start with teaspoons, pints, 
gallons, ounces and so forth, all with their own different ways of graduating 
it is amazing that we ever learned it at all.  Graduating everything by ten 
is so much easier.

       I am a 67 year old US citizen, born and raised, but I like the metric 
system better than this jumble we deal with.  OK, now I will sit back and 
take my beating.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



--part1_cb.1f2d32d1.29c8bf97_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>&lt;&lt;So, is a millimeter equivalent to an 1/8 inch? &nbsp;or is it smaller? &nbsp;Or bigger?&gt;&gt;
<BR> 
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A millimeter is less than half of an eighth of an inch. &nbsp;When you stop and think about it, the metric system is really easier than the inches and pints and teaspoons we use here in the US. &nbsp;There are twelve inches in a foot and three feet in a yard. &nbsp;There are ten millimeters in a centimeter and a hundred centimeters in a meter. &nbsp;Then when you start with teaspoons, pints, gallons, ounces and so forth, all with their own different ways of graduating it is amazing that we ever learned it at all. &nbsp;Graduating everything by ten is so much easier.
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am a 67 year old US citizen, born and raised, but I like the metric system better than this jumble we deal with. &nbsp;OK, now I will sit back and take my beating. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: metric measurements
From: Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:29:09 GMT
Status: RO

Gia Gavino <giagavino@msn.com> wrote :

> So, is a millimeter equivalent to an 1/8 inch?&nbsp; or is it smaller?&nbsp; Or bigger? 

Well, I remember there are 2-and-a-bit centimetres to an inch. So there must be *about* 24 millimetres to an inch. And an eighth of 24 is three: so an eighth is about 3 mm?

Holding two multi-system rulers against each other: yes, that looks about right.

BTW, a related thought.  The material we use for counted crosstitch is measured in Holes Per Inch (HPI), with 14 being the standard, 18 being popular, and so on. Do countries that use purely metric systems have different fabrics? Or do you end up with 5.51 Holes Per Centimetre? Or what?





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:44:16 -0800
Status: RO

> Really?  Thanks Kate!  I've never heard of it being used here before
> though I've come across plenty of references to it in American films
> and TV shows.

A quart is a farely common unit in the US.  Milk (and other liquids) tend ot
be sold by the quart, half gallon and gallon.  Paint is sold by the quart
and gallon, etc.

Dan

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:47:48 -0800
Status: RO

> Strange though about the pints and tablespoons I assumed that they would
be the same.  So how
> large is an American tablespoon?

A pint is 16 ounces and a table spoon is 3 teaspoons.

Now, manufacturers of silver ware have started making both types of spoons
shallower, so the spoons that come with your silverware don't actually hold
as much as they did 20 years ago.  But, measuring spoons are still the same
amounts.

Dan

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:09:39 -0800
Status: RO

This book arrived in the mail yesterday:  _Kvinnligt mode under tva
sekel_ by Britta Hammar and and Pernilla Rasmussen.  It is in Swedish,
so, if like me you don't read Swedish, all you can do is look at the
pictures.

These, however, are informative.  The book concentrates on women's
clothing of the 18th  and early 19th centuries. Its purpose appears to
be to show the techniques used as well as the outsides of the
garments.  To this end there are photos of complete garments;
close-ups of fabrics, interior construction, and decoration; modern
drawings showing stitching and seaming techniques; and fashion plates.

And, there are scale patterns of 28 garments, each labeled with the
scale used and IDs for the pattern pieces.  The labels, such as "skala
1:4" and "underarm" can readily be made out by an English speaker who
already has a good idea of what the pattern pieces are.  As there are
no assembly instructions, there is also no question of translating
them.

The book is hardcover, measures about 8 1/4 by 9 inches, has 191
pages, 144 color photos, 49 technical drawings, and 28 scale
patterns.  The price of the book and the shipping was  625.00 SEK.
Other people should get their own shipping
quotes.

My husband bought this book for me for Christmas. It was late in
arriving because, although Kulturen Lund (the museum who sold it to
him) was very helpful, international payment was a problem. Our bank
won't change currency.  Neither will theirs.  The museum won't take
credit cards (at least not Visa which is what we have).  He tried an
international money order in Euros, but it turns out the museum can't
accept Euros.  He finally found the answer at Citibank,
www.c2it.com.  You can link your credit card and have a check sent to
the museum in Swedish currency.

The first contact person at the museum he dealt with was Karolina
Rosenqvist  (karolina.rosenqvist@kulturen.com), who gave him general
information.  Later he dealt with Gunnel Persson
(gunnel.persson@kulturen.com) in accounting.  At any rate, once he
figured out how to pay the order process went very smoothly, and the
book arrived quickly.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance



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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:40:04 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Mon, 18 Mar 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Striped silk???? Oooooh.....drooooooollll......
> Wherever did you find striped silk suitable for the 18th century??
> I want a sacque dress so bad I can hardly stand it.....Hadn't thought
> much about the embroidery for the dress itself (since I don't really do
> much surface embroidery),

For a striped silk dress, I'd go with ruching rather than embroidery... Or
fly fringe.

> but I was really hoping to do the sleeve
> ruffles (not sure of correct term here)

Engageantes :)

> in very fine linen with some of
> that marvelous danish pulled-thread work.....now *that* stuff I can
> do..... <gg>....Hmmmm....maybe I could work some sort of trade with
> Bjarne.....

Sounds lovely, Sue!

-- Mara

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:01:25 -0800
Status: RO

I was traveling to an SCA event, and stopped to help some stranded 
motorists because one of them had put his SCA shield, painted heraldically, 
propped up against the back of the car.  Funny thing - a number of years 
later we were on our way to an ACW event, and stopped to help someone else 
because they had their cannon on a trailer behind their car.  The second 
group had never heard of the first group.  (We followed them for a while 
after they got going again, and saw a police car pull up beside their car, 
not behind it.  They must have given the right answer out the window, 
because the policeman didn't stop them.)

> > I am travelling with train and bus, so i definately will not be
> > dressed, but i change at the castle. Not 10 wild horses would make
> > me travel in bus and train dressed like an 18th. century gentleman.
> > I simply lack the nervs to do such a thing. When i was going to a
> > ball at Stockholm last autumn, they suggested me to take the bus
> > fully dressed. Well the other members do that, but i wouldnt have
> > the nerve to do such a thing, a public bus? Gues i am very shy,
> > but......... They said that people in Stockholm is used to se the
> > members dressed in costume..
>
>You should try it some time when you are with a group of others
>also dressed in costume, that  way you can *ease* into it without
>feeling that you're all alone and the only one in costume.
>
>Teddy
>(Who has been known to travel right across the country by public
>transport in costume to get to an event... not to mention alone on
>the London underground in Rocky Horror costume on the way to
>and from the theatre to see the show)


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:10:29 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:21 AM -0500 3/19/02, LalahTT@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 3/19/02 5:08:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
>teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:
>
>>I still think it's nuts.  England had already been declared free of Foot-
>>and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have
>>*cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if
>>they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss
>>of the shoes.... absolutely NUTS
>>
>
>
>       I have to agree with Teddy.  Paranoia is an ugly thing and 
>this country is going a bit overboard these days.  We will be lucky 
>if we don't end up in a dictatorship in the next couple of years at 
>the rate we are going right now.

The California agricultural protection regulations specifically, and 
import regulations in general, are nothing new and have nothing to do 
with terrorism (or, for that matter, _specifically_ with 
foot-and-mouth disease).  There are long lists of items that people 
aren't allowed to bring back from foreign trips -- it's the 
responsibility of the traveler to keep track.  Sorry to sound 
unsympathetic, but the shoe incident isn't qualitatively different 
from someone buying an illegal-to-import souvenir and then having it 
confiscated.  The import-regulation folks at the airports deal with 
constant streams of people trying to bring in things they aren't 
supposed to -- they don't get paid enough to clean shoes on top of 
that.  Put yourself in their shoes (as it were) -- it isn't just one 
pair of muddy shoes, it's a pair of muddy shoes, and then a 
home-cured ham from cousin Georg, and then a couple apples you bought 
in the market to eat on the plane and forgot about, and then the 
darling coat you picked up in the second-hand store that you didn't 
realize had an endangered species as the collar, and then the man 
with five brand new cameras who's trying to convince you that he 
already owned them before the trip, and then ....

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:31:12 -0500
Status: RO



Teddy:

Just a little question about "cup size" :-).

Which is bigger? An English or an American cup? We use cups, pints, quarts,
and gallons to measure liquids for cooking. What do you use?

I have an English friend who said she'd never heard of measuring in cups
before she moved here. She used liters. (I guess that would be litres.) She
said she was lost trying to follow our recipes. I never did figure out why
she didn't just buy a measuring cup. They're available everywhere, cheap,
and many even have both cups and liters!

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:18:34 +0000
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
>
>> But, at least in Sweden, it's common to use an intermediate unit: the
>> hectogram: 100 grams, which is a perfectly useful and convenient size.
>>  I think the claim of superior usefulness for Imperial measures is
>> just nonsensical, and a matter of what you're used to.
>
>> Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
>> perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
>
>Hectogram I'd heard of but had no idea what it is (or, for that
>matter, any concept of how much 100grams is in terms of how
>much something real wouod weigh)
>
>Decimeter is completely new to me and sounds like something
>made-up for use on a low-budget SF show....<G>
>
>Teddy
>(grew up with the metric system taught in school and still can't use
>it -  yards, feet and inches are *real* measurements I can think,
>calculate *and* guesstimate in)

Teddy,

We went to IKEA last week and bought Swedish meatballs (yum!) and the 
packet of sauce to go with them, which measured the milk in decilitres. 
Try converting that to floz!
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 18:18:57 +0100
Status: RO

> 
>> But, at least in Sweden, it's common to use an intermediate unit: the
>> hectogram: 100 grams, which is a perfectly useful and convenient size.
>>  I think the claim of superior usefulness for Imperial measures is
>> just nonsensical, and a matter of what you're used to.
> 
>> Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
>> perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
> 
> Hectogram I'd heard of but had no idea what it is (or, for that
> matter, any concept of how much 100grams is in terms of how
> much something real wouod weigh)
A chocolate bar here in Europe :)))

Cass :)

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 19:25:12 -0000
Status: RO

On 19 Mar 2002 at 13:31, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Teddy:
> 
> Just a little question about "cup size" :-).
> 
> Which is bigger? An English or an American cup? We use cups, pints, quarts,
> and gallons to measure liquids for cooking. What do you use?

I'm not Teddy, but as an English cook: I use fl oz, pints, and in theory gallons: or litres 
and millilitres, depending on what the recipe uses. My measuring jug is marked in both.

I've only ever seen "cup" used as a measure in American/Canadian recipes. 


> I have an English friend who said she'd never heard of measuring in cups
> before she moved here. She used liters. (I guess that would be litres.) She
> said she was lost trying to follow our recipes. I never did figure out why
> she didn't just buy a measuring cup. They're available everywhere, cheap,
> and many even have both cups and liters!

Possibly she was confused by the same thing as me: the use of a liquid measure (such 
as a cup) to measure solid things, like flour. How much flour I can get into a measuring 
jug depends on how hard I pack it down, and how much chopped veg depends on how 
finely I've chopped it. So I much prefer to use weight measures for anything 
compressible.

Is your flour sold by the cup, or by the pound? And if the latter, how do you take a 
recipe that says "use X cups of flour", and figure how how many bags to buy?



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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 10:32:08 -0800
Status: RO

Henk, could you contact me privately, please?  I have a question for you
about some translation stuff.

Thanks!

Colleen
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to see if my email is actually working.

Colleen
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Subject: [h-cost] low crown straw hats
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:25:08 -0500
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hello
Judith M sent a confusing email to us about someone looking for straw =
hats.  I'm not sure if this is the email address to answer to.  Anyways, =
we have a supply of low crown (1+ACI-) straw hats (with the 5+ACI- head =
diameter) in 3 sizes:
13+ACI- total diameter, 15+ACI- diameter, 20+ACI- diameter (the 7+ACI- =
hat).
If you are interested please contact us at turtledove+AEA-gbso.net.  We =
have these stocked in Florida and in Vermont.   We are currently in =
Florida, but this email address reaches us anywhere.

Carol Yargeau, Just Two Tailors

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C1CE80.53211FA0
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+/v8APAAh-DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC +ACI--//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN+ACIAPg-
+ADw-HTML+AD4APA-HEAD+AD4-
+ADw-META http-equiv+AD0-Content-Type content+AD0AIg-text/html+ADs- =
charset+AD0-utf-7+ACIAPg-
+ADw-META content+AD0AIg-MSHTML 6.00.2600.0+ACI- name+AD0-GENERATOR+AD4-
+ADw-STYLE+AD4APA-/STYLE+AD4-
+ADw-/HEAD+AD4-
+ADw-BODY bgColor+AD0AIw-ffffff+AD4-
+ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT size+AD0-2+AD4-Hello+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4-
+ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT size+AD0-2+AD4-Judith M sent a confusing email to =
us about someone looking=20
for straw hats.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- I'm not sure if this is the email address =
to answer=20
to.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- Anyways, we have a supply of low crown (1+ACI-) straw =
hats (with the 5+ACI-=20
head diameter) in 3 sizes:+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4-
+ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT size+AD0-2+AD4-13+ACI- total diameter, 15+ACI- =
diameter, 20+ACI- diameter (the 7+ACI-=20
hat).+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4-
+ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT size+AD0-2+AD4-If you are interested please contact =
us at +ADw-A=20
href+AD0AIg-mailto:turtledove+AEA-gbso.net+ACIAPg-turtledove+AEA-gbso.net=
+ADw-/A+AD4-.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- We have these=20
stocked in Florida and in Vermont.+ACY-nbsp+ADsAJg-nbsp+ADs- We are =
currently in Florida, but=20
this email address reaches us anywhere.+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4-
+ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT =
size+AD0-2+AD4APA-/FONT+AD4AJg-nbsp+ADsAPA-/DIV+AD4-
+ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT size+AD0-2+AD4-Carol Yargeau, Just Two =
Tailors+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4APA-/BODY+AD4APA-/HTML+AD4-

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C1CE80.53211FA0--


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 16:09:42 2002
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:59:20 -0700
Status: RO


delete this part:

> -- Method 1:
> The indra server theoretically holds digests since the time we switched to
> the mailman software. Obviously these don't go back very far. Use the
> h-cost signup webpage and follow the archive links. Last time I looked,
> however, very few posts had actually made it in there. It would be nice to
> see this fixed, but I'm not holding my breath.

keep this part:

> -- Method 2:
> To search by keyword, use Eric Praetzel's searchable archive at:
> 	http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives
> Eric made some changes to the search method a few months ago that speed
> the search but reduce your ability to search. You can no longer search by
> keyword in text, just by the poster's name and subject line ... not much
> use for many of the sorts of questions I ask. But it's a start, and if you
> know that one of the listmembers is an expert on some topic, you can
> always search on his/her name and then follow subject lines once you find
> useful threads. A bit more disturbing, when Eric tidied up the files to
> eliminate extra headers, some of the text was lost from some postings; I
> have found a few lines missing here and there from my old posts.
> Eventually I realized that when a text line happened to include a colon
> after the first word on that line, the software assumed that line was a
> header and wiped it. If you find some odd breaks in a posting, that may be
> the cause.
> 
> -- Method 3:
> For older archives (1993-1996), go to Franchesca Havas' site at
> http://www.io.com/~ches/h-costume/ . You can ftp or download zipped files.
> I'm not sure if Ches has later archives too. I hope *someone* is keeping
> them.
> 
> --Robin
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Subject: [h-cost] Cups/conversion tables
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:18:07 -0500
Status: RO

Here's a couple of websites that may help:

http://www.convert-me.com/en/

http://www.ex.ac.uk/cimt/dictunit/dictunit.htm

http://ts.nist.gov/ts/htdocs/230/235/appxc/appxc.htm

http://math2.org/math/general/measures.htm

Hope this helps!

Linda


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 16:39:45 2002
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:27:46 +0000
Status: RO

I'm not Teddy either, but I use pints or fl.oz. (Most recipe books give
metric quantities too, but warn you to stick to one system at a time!) I
once sent for a recipe booklet from Quaker Oats which was first
published in the US and came with a note explaining that the American
cup is 8 fl.oz., but I didn't know that that was half a pint to
Americans.
I'm still wondering how Americans measure butter etc. in cups.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> gailscott@eos.net 03/19/02 06:31pm >>>


Teddy:

Just a little question about "cup size" :-).

Which is bigger? An English or an American cup? We use cups, pints,
quarts,
and gallons to measure liquids for cooking. What do you use?

I have an English friend who said she'd never heard of measuring in
cups
before she moved here. She used liters. (I guess that would be litres.)
She
said she was lost trying to follow our recipes. I never did figure out
why
she didn't just buy a measuring cup. They're available everywhere,
cheap,
and many even have both cups and liters!

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:58:06 +0100
Status: RO

> On 19 Mar 2002 at 13:31, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> 
>> Teddy:
>> 
>> Just a little question about "cup size" :-).
>> 
>> Which is bigger? An English or an American cup? We use cups, pints, quarts,
>> and gallons to measure liquids for cooking. What do you use?
> 
> I'm not Teddy, but as an English cook: I use fl oz, pints, and in theory
> gallons: or litres
> and millilitres, depending on what the recipe uses. My measuring jug is marked
> in both.
> 
> I've only ever seen "cup" used as a measure in American/Canadian recipes.
> 
> 
>> I have an English friend who said she'd never heard of measuring in cups
>> before she moved here. She used liters. (I guess that would be litres.) She
>> said she was lost trying to follow our recipes. I never did figure out why
>> she didn't just buy a measuring cup. They're available everywhere, cheap,
>> and many even have both cups and liters!
> 
> Possibly she was confused by the same thing as me: the use of a liquid measure
> (such 
> as a cup) to measure solid things, like flour. How much flour I can get into a
> measuring 
> jug depends on how hard I pack it down, and how much chopped veg depends on
> how 
> finely I've chopped it. So I much prefer to use weight measures for anything
> compressible.
> 
> Is your flour sold by the cup, or by the pound? And if the latter, how do you
> take a 
> recipe that says "use X cups of flour", and figure how how many bags to buy?
In theory we are supposed to sift flour before we (Americans) use it in a
recipe (this makes the flour consistent) - but I don't know anyone who
actually does - I don't but my recipes turn out anyway :) As for how many
bags to buy I have never been in a situation where I had to worry about
needing so much. Flour is cheap so it just gets bought whenever needed.

As for other compressible things, I guess I have developed a feel for what
the recipe calls for. No this isn't very scientific but it works for me and
I haven't gotten any complaints from the 'victims' of my recipes ;)

Now I live in Germany and use both Am and metric systems depending on the
recipe I use and still have no problems either way - am quite comfortable in
both systems and can even convert between the two if necessary, ie
translating a chocolate chip cookie recipe so that a German can use it.

Cass :) 

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:50:24 -0500
Status: RO



Teddy,
Who is Kevin Smith and who did he play in Rocky?
I saw the show like, the very week it opened in NYC 2 years ago,
with Joan Jett & Dick Cavett. Was Kevin S. in that cast?
I'm sorry he's dead, BTW.
Deb R

> > Rocky Horror is going to be performed here later this year, and I was
> > so geared up to go, but Kevin Smith was supposed to play Frank, and
> > now he is dead. So sad, I don't think they have yet decided who will
> > replace him.

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:03:23 -0800
Status: RO

U.S. flour is sold by the pound.  Don't know about Canadian or Mexican.
Something to also be aware of is what kind of wheat the flour is made of
since that will affect things.  Soft wheats make better batter breads like
biscuits,  hard wheat makes better breads; cake flour versus bread flour.
Mostly I just buy "All Purpose Flour".

American cooking still has some "art" spots in it.  Deriving from the days
when it was "take a tea cup full", or "a lump of butter the size of a
walnut".  One thing I have learned is that I never pack my flour into the
cup.  I used to dip my cup, 1/2 cup, 1/4 cup measure into the flour and
level it off with a knife.  Now I put the flour into a sifter and shake it
into the cup, again leveling it when it is full.  Packing, scooping, and
sifting can make the same recipe turn out slightly differently.

How do I figure how many bags of flour?  I look on the side of the bag, or
use the rule of thumb that there are about 37 cups per 10 pounds in Gold
Medal (common stateside brand).

Chopped veggies are an  "art", aka, by guess and by golly, and a "cup" of
them is an "about" measure.

Weight is far more precise, and someday I'm going to get one of those nifty
kitchen scales.... someday.  Problem with them is that they are way more
expensive, mechanical, take up room on my counter, and haven't been passed
down from my mother/aunt/grandmother.  They also don't bend back into shape
after I've dropped and stepped on them!

Regina Romsey


Possibly she was confused by the same thing as me: the use of a liquid
measure (such
as a cup) to measure solid things, like flour. How much flour I can get into
a measuring
jug depends on how hard I pack it down, and how much chopped veg depends on
how
finely I've chopped it. So I much prefer to use weight measures for anything
compressible.

Is your flour sold by the cup, or by the pound? And if the latter, how do
you take a
recipe that says "use X cups of flour", and figure how how many bags to buy?



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CC: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
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Subject: [h-cost] Getting textiles into a foreign continent...Australia
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 22:04:34 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

Here we are about to think about moving our household to Australia. Of course
we will give up a lot. But I don't want to lose all my textiles. Now, for
the 10 years I have lived in this city, I have always lived with clothes moths,
and each year, they devoured one or the other woolen item which was left
without attention in the corner or waiting to be washed or even in the
cupboard or as yarn, about to be worked into something... or as UFO.
I absolutely don't want to import any moth eggs into Australia. Besides, it's
forbidden. When I pack my things, I want to be sure they are absolutely
moth-free. Given that in this household there is hardly anything I can
guarantee to be absolutely moth free... does anyone have any idea how to
do this?
I was thinking about buying a microwave just for packing, microwaving
everything in small amounts, then packing it into closed plastic bags and those,
again, into cardboard boxes which will be shipped to Australia. Do you
think this is a good idea? How long, how high would I have to microwave?
Would this affect the fiber badly? Would I have to treat non-wool textiles
as well?
Barbara Maren
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:35:43 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 19 Mar 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> I'm still wondering how Americans measure butter etc. in cups.

We don't actually put it in cups.  Butter (and margarine) come four sticks
in a one-pound box, and two sticks is said to equal one cup. I haven't
actually tried seeing if that comes out, so for all I know the "cup"
equivalency is arbitrary. For one-half cup of butter, you just use one
stick. For one-quarter cup, you use half a stick. The sticks are marked in
increments, by tablespoon (eight to a stick, or 32 to a pound) and also as
partial cups, so you can slice off three tablespoons or one-third cup or
whatever just by following the markings on the wrapper. My butter dish
even has the standard increments marked on it, which makes it easy when I
need, say, 1.5 tablespoons and I don't want to cut into a new wrapped
stick.

The "cup" designation in this case is more semantic than anything -- most
Americans don't realize they're essentially measuring by weight, without
weighing.

As for flour, there is a standard method you're taught in cooking classes:
dip the cup into loosened (not packed) flour, rap the side of the cup once
with a knife, then use the knife to level off. When a small variation
really matters, some recipes will specify whether you should sift, and if
so, before or after measuring.

An English friend gave me a set of English measuring cups and spoons to go
with a cookbook she gave me. To my surprise, much later, I found they
measured the same as my American cups and spoons. I don't know if there
was a problem with the set she gave me, or whether there really is no
difference, even if everyone says there is.

--Robin

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:18:49 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 19 Mar 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> I'm still wondering how Americans measure butter etc. in cups.

We don't -- each stick of butter is wrapped in waxed paper that is marked
off in one tablespoon increments.  One stick is half a cup of butter; half
a stick is 1/4 cup; and these measurements are marked on the wrapping
paper, too.

There is a way to measure fats in a measuring cup -- fill a measuring cup
with water, then put spoonfulls of butter or lard in the water until the
level of the water reaches desired measurement.  So, for example, if you
wanted half a cup of butter, you'd fill the cup to 1/2 cup then add butter
or lard, and when the water line reaches 1 cup, you know you've got half a
cup  of water and half a cup of butter.  But I've never had to resort to
this method, as the sticks are all marked.

-- Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 11:02:51 -0800
Status: RO

At 3:41 PM +0000 3/19/02, Jane Williams wrote:
>Seamstrix@juno.com wrote :
>
>>  ...I was trying to make English
>>  style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
>>  hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English 
>>cuisine) ....I still think it's
>>  weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
>>  American, what do I know?
>
>Think of it as "instant custard sauce". Like those packet mixes of 
>Hollandaise sauce and so on, but bought in bulk. A few of us still 
>know how to make "real" custard, but life is too short to stir eggs 
>over a gentle heat when you can go "powder, milk, microwave, 3 min".

You can get some good results with microwaving egg-custard if you do 
it in small batches (or individual servings) and get the timing 
right.  My process is: mix the milk and all other ingredients 
_except_ the eggs and microwave until just at boiling temperature. 
Beat the egg yolks thoroughly and pour the milk mixture in slowly 
while continuing to beat.  Finish in microwave for about half a 
minute of cooking plus a minute or so to sit.  Not enormously more 
time than the above, although a smidge trickier in the process.

(I've mostly done this for one-serving batches.  I'm in the process 
of developing a personal cookbook around the theme "self-indulgent 
baking for one -- free from guilt and leftovers".)

Heather
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 11:05:39 -0800
Status: RO

At 4:20 PM +0000 3/19/02, Rachel wrote:
>Karen
>
>True custard is made with eggs (even in England).  What you were 
>making sounds like Bird's Custard
>Powder, which is everyday type custard rather than the fancy egg 
>custard, or at least it is in my
>house.  Bird's was made by a Victorian gentleman whose wife was 
>allergic to eggs and so couldn't
>have custard.  He invented this egg free powder that you add to milk 
>and hey presto instant
>custard was born.  It's lovely stuff and my other half with happily 
>eat a bowl of the stuff on its
>own!
>
>Strange though about the pints and tablespoons I assumed that they 
>would be the same.  So how
>large is an American tablespoon?

An American tablespoon is one-sixteenth of an American cup -- i.e., 
if you were measuring water, one Am. Tbsp would be one ounce.

Heather
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:33:52 -0500
Status: RO

A teaspoon is 5 ml, and a tablespoon is 15 ml (per my medication
instructor).  But since flatware is not accurate, you need to use actual
measuring spoons to get it right.
-Megan
(that nursing school stuff actually coming in handy on a costume list??)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Daniel Fenwick
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 11:48 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements


> Strange though about the pints and tablespoons I assumed that they would
be the same.  So how
> large is an American tablespoon?

A pint is 16 ounces and a table spoon is 3 teaspoons.

Now, manufacturers of silver ware have started making both types of spoons
shallower, so the spoons that come with your silverware don't actually hold
as much as they did 20 years ago.  But, measuring spoons are still the same
amounts.

Dan

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:27:12 -0600
Status: RO

Here in the States one can buy a set of nesting measuring cups that are
different sizes. If one needs a quarter cup of shortening, one simply
gets out the quarter cup and fills it with shotening until even with the
rim. I remember my home economics teacher very carefully showing the
class how to pack the shortening so as to eliminate air bubbles.  Also,
we have sticks of butter with various measurements marked on the wrapper
so if you need a third of a cup of butter, you just cut the stick at that
point. 

Karen 



On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:27:46 +0000 "Kate M Bunting"
<K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> writes:

> I'm still wondering how Americans measure butter etc. in cups.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Rocky Horror was: things you fantasize...
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:35:13 -0500
Status: RO

who is Kevin Smith?


-kelly
----- Original Message -----
From: michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] things you fantasize to do in costume


> > Teddy
> > (Who has been known to travel right across the country by public
> > transport in costume to get to an event... not to mention alone on
> > the London underground in Rocky Horror costume on the way to
> > and from the theatre to see the show)
>
>
> I trecked from the Hyde Park in to Her Majesty's in London and across
> København in the wedding dress from Phantom of the Opera, as well as
cautch
> a taxi in Hamburg in the same dress.
> http://recital.tripod.com/costume/weddingdress.htm
> But then again I do still dress up for Halloween (actually just started,
> took a long time to catch on here in NZ).
>
> Rocky Horror is going to be performed here later this year, and I was so
> geared up to go, but Kevin Smith was supposed to play Frank, and now he is
> dead. So sad, I don't think they have yet decided who will replace him.
>
> michaela
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
>
>
>
>

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:47:28 +1100
Status: RO

> A teaspoon is 5 ml, and a tablespoon is 15 ml (per my medication
> instructor).  But since flatware is not accurate, you need to use actual
> measuring spoons to get it right.
> -Megan
> (that nursing school stuff actually coming in handy on a costume list??)

However in Australia, a Tablespoon is 20ml.  Something I always have to
remember about when cooking from US or English recipes.

Regards
Meliora.

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:51:14 -0500
Status: RO

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I don't mind going nowhere, as long as it's an interesting path

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I don't mind going nowhere, as long as =
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rocky Horror was: things you fantasize...
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:56:59 -0600
Status: RO

Kevin Smith was a New Zealand actor who is probably best known to most of
us as Ares- God of War on "Hercules" and "Xena". He died last month of
injuries from an accident which occured on the set of a movie he was
filming in china. Very sad.


Karen


On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:35:13 -0500 "Kelly Rinne"
<kelly@costumedesign.net> writes:
> who is Kevin Smith?
> 
> 
> -kelly

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From: shawnna ayers <shawnnaayers@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rocky Horror was: things you fantasize...
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:20:57 -0800
Status: RO

Oh that's awful.  I remember him from the shows, but I've also seen him in
other productions.  He was good.  I really enjoyed him.

Shawnna

seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

> Kevin Smith was a New Zealand actor who is probably best known to most of
> us as Ares- God of War on "Hercules" and "Xena". He died last month of
> injuries from an accident which occured on the set of a movie he was
> filming in china. Very sad.
>
> Karen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rocky Horror was: things you fantasize...
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:50:55 -0500
Status: RO

on 3/19/02 4:56 PM, seamstrix@juno.com at seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

> Kevin Smith was a New Zealand actor who is probably best known to most of
> us as Ares- God of War on "Hercules" and "Xena". He died last month of
> injuries from an accident which occured on the set of a movie he was
> filming in china. Very sad.
> 
> 
> Karen
> 
> 
> On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:35:13 -0500 "Kelly Rinne"
> <kelly@costumedesign.net> writes:
NOOOOOOOOO! oh mi'gosh. he was one of the reasons i kept watching the damn
show. how sad!
laurie

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 22:52:53 -0000
Status: RO

> Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU> wrote:
> 
> An American tablespoon is one-sixteenth of an American 
> cup -- i.e., if you were measuring water, one Am. Tbsp 
> would be one ounce.

But, I feel the need to point out that one cup is really only 8 ounces, so that would make a Tbsp 1/2 ounce.  

Margretta
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:51:26 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Barbara.
You dont have to buy a microwawe. Just put your things in the deep freezer for a
couple of days, and then it is free of living  moth eggs. Absolutely 100% safe to
do.
I know because a Museum i worked for did this with everything they were given to be
sure not to get any moths.

Bjarne

Barbara Maren Winkler wrote:

> Here we are about to think about moving our household to Australia. Of course
> we will give up a lot. But I don't want to lose all my textiles. Now, for
> the 10 years I have lived in this city, I have always lived with clothes moths,
> and each year, they devoured one or the other woolen item which was left
> without attention in the corner or waiting to be washed or even in the
> cupboard or as yarn, about to be worked into something... or as UFO.
> I absolutely don't want to import any moth eggs into Australia. Besides, it's
> forbidden. When I pack my things, I want to be sure they are absolutely
> moth-free. Given that in this household there is hardly anything I can
> guarantee to be absolutely moth free... does anyone have any idea how to
> do this?
> I was thinking about buying a microwave just for packing, microwaving
> everything in small amounts, then packing it into closed plastic bags and those,
> again, into cardboard boxes which will be shipped to Australia. Do you
> think this is a good idea? How long, how high would I have to microwave?
> Would this affect the fiber badly? Would I have to treat non-wool textiles
> as well?
> Barbara Maren
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:20:14 -0600
Status: RO

At 10:04 PM 3/19/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>Here we are about to think about moving our household to Australia. Of course
>we will give up a lot. But I don't want to lose all my textiles. Now, for
>the 10 years I have lived in this city, I have always lived with clothes 
>moths,
>and each year, they devoured one or the other woolen item which was left
>without attention in the corner or waiting to be washed or even in the
>cupboard or as yarn, about to be worked into something... or as UFO.
>I absolutely don't want to import any moth eggs into Australia. Besides, it's
>forbidden. When I pack my things, I want to be sure they are absolutely
>moth-free. Given that in this household there is hardly anything I can
>guarantee to be absolutely moth free... does anyone have any idea how to
>do this?
>I was thinking about buying a microwave just for packing, microwaving
>everything in small amounts, then packing it into closed plastic bags and 
>those,
>again, into cardboard boxes which will be shipped to Australia. Do you
>think this is a good idea? How long, how high would I have to microwave?
>Would this affect the fiber badly? Would I have to treat non-wool textiles
>as well?
>Barbara Maren

The way to get rid of moths according to Lotus Stack, curator of textiles 
at the MIA, the do it at home method is: freeze your fabric for 48 hours, 
then put it in the fridge to thaw for 24 hours, then put it back in the 
freezer for 24, then the fridge again for 24.  Critters are supposed to be 
dead at that point.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:26:06 -0500
Status: RO

Excellent! Is this a quote or your personal philosophy? ~Deb

> I don't mind going nowhere, as long as it's an interesting path

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Subject: [h-cost] Reviving Velvet
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 01:31:38 +0000
Status: RO

Hi,

I was wondering if the list could help me out with this.
I have 13m of 1.5m wide, high quality, 100% cotton triple velvet, which 
until last night was properly stored on a rack hanging by the selvage. 
However, last night the rope holding it snaped (it is very heavy)and I 
discovered is crushed in a heap on the floor. The majority of wrinkles have 
dropped out under the weight of the velvet once I rehung it, but they are a 
few pressure marks where it hit other things on the floor that I am having 
trouble shifting. I can lightly steam the outside layer by hanging it in my 
bathroom, but stuff on the inside will not get exposed to the steam and I 
don't have enough space to hang the 13m's out separately and lift the nap 
with a small comb.

So I have two questions: will it matter if I don't attend to this now? ie 
will these things be harder to get out if I leave them there longer (I have 
not done this in the past) and what methods do others use to revive velvet 
pile on large pieces of fabric?

Thanks,

Massaria

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 22:02:38 2002
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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Reviving Velvet
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 19:56:36 -0600
Status: RO

I'm not sure if it would hurt to wait to fix this on cotton velvet or not.  But what I do 
when I get dents, and creases in the velvets I work with is use a steam iron and hold it 
at a distance from the fabric and steam the spots out.  Do not use an iron that shoots a 
jet, as it will actually move the pile around and create matting.

I do not know how you have the fabric attached to the rack, but if you accordian fold the 
fabric, and hang it that way the humidity might have a chance to get to the areas you need 
it too. Or you could actually just move some of the fabric folds out of your way and find 
the spots.  I usually accordian fold my fine fabrics and hang them from the selvage using 
the heavy clothes hangers that have the clips on them.

Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 18:05:19 -0800
Status: RO


>Is your flour sold by the cup, or by the pound? And if the latter, how do 
>you take a
>recipe that says "use X cups of flour", and figure how how many bags to buy?

As far as I know, American recipes call for the ingredients the way they 
want them ('one cup sifted flour' when they want you to sift first, etc.), 
and the trick is not to pack the stuff in there but spoon it in.  I never 
thought it was that important on most recipes, but then, I'm not really a cook.

Kayta
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:43:19 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I could stretch and make this on-topic by pointing out that today's
graduation gowns are descendents of medieval scholars' robes. But I won't.
I'll get right to the point. A friend of mine (who did her doctoral
dissertation on costume reference in 12th-century literature -- OK, that's
on-topic!) is preparing for her graduation ceremony. She wrote me this:

"I went to the campus bookstore this afternoon to procure a graduation
gown.  The letter the grad school sent out said that they were $65.  I
went in with images of the beautiful gowns you see, sooooo professorial,
at ceremonies and such, only to find that if I want something even
approaching nice-looking, I'd have to shell out some $340!  I was
outraged!  I mean, how on earth can a poly-cotton blend garment with a few
machine-stiched doo-dahs on it cost anywhere near $300?  Arg!  Arg!!  And
Arg!!!! ... I just had to rant with someone who would understand that, as
the author of a dissertation about CLOTHING, I might wish to look good
when they give me my degree.  It's sickening.  Really."

Apparently the $65 gowns are acetate :-P  I asked her about rentals, but
she apparently wasn't given that option.

So my questions to the list: Is there a source online for purchasing
graduation gowns at a better price?

And, has anyone had any experience renting a graduation gown in the last
few years? I've pointed my friend to some possible places she might check,
such as costume rental stores and school suppliers, but it would help if
someone has a practical experience to bring to bear.

--Robin

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From: "Jamie Zdziarski" <jamie@thecoffeehouse.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:48:32 -0500
Status: RO

LOL...I read this and thought "you know this is exactly what I thought
too"........Then I made 3 Doctorial gowns.......I WILL NEVER DO IT
AGAIN!!!!!!!!!! They are a pain in the butt...to me anyhow, they look
simple enough, but looks can be decieving. That price is awesome, when
we looked around we couldn't get them cheaper than $450! Now for the
materials for 3 were only about $150 but there is NO WAY I will ever
ever ever do another one!!  

I hope you find a great one at a price you're willing to pay! :)

Jamie

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:43 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources



I could stretch and make this on-topic by pointing out that today's
graduation gowns are descendents of medieval scholars' robes. But I
won't. I'll get right to the point. A friend of mine (who did her
doctoral dissertation on costume reference in 12th-century literature --
OK, that's
on-topic!) is preparing for her graduation ceremony. She wrote me this:

"I went to the campus bookstore this afternoon to procure a graduation
gown.  The letter the grad school sent out said that they were $65.  I
went in with images of the beautiful gowns you see, sooooo professorial,
at ceremonies and such, only to find that if I want something even
approaching nice-looking, I'd have to shell out some $340!  I was
outraged!  I mean, how on earth can a poly-cotton blend garment with a
few machine-stiched doo-dahs on it cost anywhere near $300?  Arg!  Arg!!
And Arg!!!! ... I just had to rant with someone who would understand
that, as the author of a dissertation about CLOTHING, I might wish to
look good when they give me my degree.  It's sickening.  Really."

Apparently the $65 gowns are acetate :-P  I asked her about rentals, but
she apparently wasn't given that option.

So my questions to the list: Is there a source online for purchasing
graduation gowns at a better price?

And, has anyone had any experience renting a graduation gown in the last
few years? I've pointed my friend to some possible places she might
check, such as costume rental stores and school suppliers, but it would
help if someone has a practical experience to bring to bear.

--Robin

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 23:13:44 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] low crown straw hats
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:08:18 -0600
Status: RO

Hi,

Can you try resending this?  It came out as complete gibberish...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:25 PM 3/18/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>+/v8APAAh-DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC +ACI--//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 
>Transitional//EN+ACIAPg- +ADw-HTML+AD4APA-HEAD+AD4- +ADw-META 
>http-equiv+AD0-Content-Type content+AD0AIg-text/html+ADs- 
>charset+AD0-utf-7+ACIAPg- +ADw-META content+AD0AIg-MSHTML 6.00.2600.0+ACI- 
>name+AD0-GENERATOR+AD4- +ADw-STYLE+AD4APA-/STYLE+AD4- +ADw-/HEAD+AD4- 
>+ADw-BODY bgColor+AD0AIw-ffffff+AD4- +ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT 
>size+AD0-2+AD4-Hello+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4- +ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT 
>size+AD0-2+AD4-Judith M sent a confusing email to us about someone looking 
>for straw hats.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- I'm not sure if this is the email address to 
>answer to.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- Anyways, we have a supply of low crown (1+ACI-) 
>straw hats (with the 5+ACI- head diameter) in 3 
>sizes:+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4- +ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT 
>size+AD0-2+AD4-13+ACI- total diameter, 15+ACI- diameter, 20+ACI- diameter 
>(the 7+ACI- hat).+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4- +ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT 
>size+AD0-2+AD4-If you are interested please contact us at +ADw-A 
>href+AD0AIg-mailto:turtledove+AEA-gbso.net+ACIAPg-turtledove+AEA-gbso.net+ADw-/A+AD4-.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- 
>We have these stocked in Florida and in Vermont.+ACY-nbsp+ADsAJg-nbsp+ADs- 
>We are currently in Florida, but this email address reaches us 
>anywhere.+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4- +ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT 
>size+AD0-2+AD4APA-/FONT+AD4AJg-nbsp+ADsAPA-/DIV+AD4- +ADw-DIV+AD4APA-FONT 
>size+AD0-2+AD4-Carol Yargeau, Just Two 
>Tailors+ADw-/FONT+AD4APA-/DIV+AD4APA-/BODY+AD4APA-/HTML+AD4-

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 23:21:38 2002
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:12:05 -0600
Status: RO

At 10:19 AM 3/19/2002 +0000, you wrote:
> > Oh, and it's good thing they didn't check my suitcases because my
> > green shoes were quite muddy and I sure wouldn't have wanted them
> > confiscated.
>
>Tut-tut, and it's the same Norfolk Countryside mud as Seanan had
>on hers.  Expect the sound of sirens and theauthorities to be
>battering down your doors in the middle of the night... Perhaps
>they'll put the area around St Paul into quarantine until everyone
>and everything has been thoroughly disinfected (or burnt?).

Yup.  Same mud.  However, I guess they took pity on the cripple. : 
)   Frankly, I didn't even think about when I was packing.  I was too busy 
trying to break laws of physics by getting everything in that suitcase... : )

>Or perhaps they aren't as bothered in MN as they are in California...
><snortle!>

I dunno.  I've never been there.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: "Massaria dC" <massaria@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 03:14:37 +0000
Status: RO

>And, has anyone had any experience renting a graduation gown in the >last 
>few years?

Yes and they are fine, but it largely depends on who you rent them from and 
how long you wear them for. I will give you a scary example, which is I 
think the worst case I know of....

My sisters had a friend who was employed by her univeristy one summer as a 
"gown sniffer". Her job was to go through the stock of some 600 undergrad 
gowns that they rent out for ceremonies and smell them!! She was instructed 
to put them into 3 different groups, ones that smelt a little, ones that 
were smelly but not too bad and ones that reeked of BO and made you gag. The 
later group they dry cleaned, the former two piles were rented out again. So 
it was possible to rent a gown that had not be cleaned for at least 2 years 
in any given graduation period and that smelt a bit. If you only wore them 
for a few hours, it was ok, but if you stoped and thought about it, it was 
really gross.

This place was fairly cheap for hire gowns and this is why, whereas other 
places I know of charge 3 times the price, but get their stuff cleaned after 
each hire. Seems to depends alot on where you are.

Personally I will be either buying a gown (despite the expense) or getting 
one made, if I attend my doctoral graduation.

Massaria



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 18:35:43 -0800
Status: RO

At 09:48 PM 03/19/2002 -0500, Jamie Zdziarski wrote:
>LOL...I read this and thought "you know this is exactly what I thought
>too"........Then I made 3 Doctorial gowns.......I WILL NEVER DO IT
>AGAIN!!!!!!!!!! They are a pain in the butt...to me anyhow, they look
>simple enough, but looks can be decieving. 

So what was so difficult about them?  They do look simple, like a basic
squarish yoke with the sleeves and body cartridge pleated on. Is there
something I'm missing?

For some reason, I find myself interested in academic dress even though
I've never worn it, nor am I likely to.  Oh well, maybe after I win the
lottery and give millions to charity some university will give me an
honorary degree and I can make myself one.  In silk gabardine, of course.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 23:49:39 2002
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From: "Jennie Chancey" <jchancey@ala.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Old South Ball in Atlanta -- short notice!
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:42:22 -0500
Status: RO

ATTENTION! Antebellum Ball in Atlanta Saturday, April 20th, 7-10 p.m.
(practice at 6 p.m. for those who need practice).

 My husband (Matt) is the editor of an online magazine called The Gold
Economy. He is hosting a convention in Atlanta on April 19th and 20th at the
beautiful Grand Hyatt in Buckhead for businesses that are involved in
Internet commerce. The climax of the convention is an antebellum ball on
Saturday evening 7-10 p.m. that will feature a live string band. The theme
for the ball will be "A Night in the Old South." Many of the conference
participants will be, as my husband calls them, "white-collar computer
 geeks" who are unfamiliar with antebellum dances. So my husband asked me to
issue an open invitation to all reenactors or Victorian costume nuts on my
list who would like to attend the ball. Please come and enjoy the music and
dancing. Matt believes that if there are several couples there who know what
they are doing, it will encourage some of the other participants to try
something new and enjoy themselves. However, space is limited, so he will
only admit the first 20 couples who register by e-mail (singles welcome
also). The cost will be $15 per couple or $10 for an individual (you can pay
at the door). Period costume is strongly encouraged, but it is not required.
You can register with my husband at mchancey@ala.net.

Thanks!

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:47:29 -0600
Status: RO

If you do, let me know, I'd love that kind of cook book.

Onaree

Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> 
> (I've mostly done this for one-serving batches.  I'm in the process
> of developing a personal cookbook around the theme "self-indulgent
> baking for one -- free from guilt and leftovers".)
> 
> Heather
> --
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Ubi dubium ibi libertas:  Where there is doubt, there is freedom. --
Latin proverb
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:43:56 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Thanks, Heather, for the heads-up. Sounds like a lot of scholars I have
heard from in the past. I'll tell you the story of my head-to-head with Dr. Ivor
Noel Hume someday. I have witnesses on this list... BTW, there is another book I
found that might be of interest: "Women's Dress in the Ancient Greek World" ed.
by Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones (a Welshman, perhaps?)  Classical Press of Wales Nov.
2001 0715631306 $59.50/ BP 45.00, available through Oxbow/ David Brown Books
Cheers, Mike T.


>   "The Devil's Cloth"
> reads like the book of a man who designed a conclusion and then went
> looking for data to support it.  Great pictures, though!
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 01:49:38 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting textiles into a foreign  
 continent...Australia
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:26:45 -0800
Status: RO

At 5:20 PM -0600 3/19/02, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
>
>The way to get rid of moths according to Lotus Stack, curator of 
>textiles at the MIA, the do it at home method is: freeze your fabric 
>for 48 hours, then put it in the fridge to thaw for 24 hours, then 
>put it back in the freezer for 24, then the fridge again for 24. 
>Critters are supposed to be dead at that point.

With the addition that moths _can_ easily get into ordinary plastic 
bags that are fastened with wire ties, no matter how tightly you 
think you have sealed them. On the other hand, the "zipper-lock" type 
of bags (which are airtight) do seem to be mothproof if they are 
absolutely sealed tight. I had moths show up in some yarn that was in 
an un-sealed bag, and the only yarns nearby that escaped being eaten 
were those in sealed ziplock bags.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 01:53:35 2002
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:45:44 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:43 PM 3/19/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi, All. Thanks, Heather, for the heads-up. Sounds like a lot of scholars I
have
>heard from in the past. I'll tell you the story of my head-to-head with Dr.
Ivor
>Noel Hume someday. I have witnesses on this list... BTW, there is another
book I
>found that might be of interest: "Women's Dress in the Ancient Greek World" ed.
>by Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones (a Welshman, perhaps?)  Classical Press of Wales Nov.
>2001 0715631306 $59.50/ BP 45.00, available through Oxbow/ David Brown Books
>Cheers, Mike T.
>
Ah...the difficult D., Hume.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: re: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:51:06 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:52 PM +0000 3/19/02, mdevries@sunflower.com wrote:
>>Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU> wrote:
>>
>>An American tablespoon is one-sixteenth of an American cup -- i.e., 
>>if you were measuring water, one Am. Tbsp would be one ounce.
>
>But, I feel the need to point out that one cup is really only 8 
>ounces, so that would make a Tbsp 1/2 ounce.

Oops. I'm generally better at math than that.  Yeah, 1/2 ounce -- 
that's what I meant to say.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 07:38:50 +0100
Status: RO

Hi
1mm. is !/10 of a centimeter. There goes 2,54 cm. to an inch so you must
find out your self, i am not that particular good in numbers.

Bjarne

Gia Gavino wrote:

> Goodness, is that how it goes?  I've been sort of following this
> thread, mostly deleting it, because..well, because I find it so weird
> to have different increments like this. The names of the increments
> *sound* really orderly and logical, but I don't know the actual
> *physical* amount.  It's like languages.  And if you really think
> about it, It's about language. So, is a millimeter equivalent to an
> 1/8 inch?  or is it smaller?  Or bigger? *sigh* I guess I have to just
> make sure I *never* lose my measuring tools that have both measuring
> systems on them.  Or (because I did a lot of deleting) is there going
> to be another measurement system? Gia/Giacintathe math challenged
>
>      ----- Original Message -----
>      From: Gail & Scott Finke
>      Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 4:01 PM
>      To: h-costume@indra.com
>      Subject: [h-cost] Re: metric measurements
>
>
>
>      Come now, Teddy! It's not that hard:
>
>      millimeter
>      centimenter
>      decimeter
>      meter
>      dekameter
>      hectometer
>      kilometer
>
>      Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same
>      increments of
>      measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.
>
>      I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour
>      would be (partly
>      because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). But I
>      have to admit it
>      has a nice orderliness to it. I know how much a cup of flour
>      is. But how
>      much is a quart? I always have to look it up.
>
>      Gail Finke
>
>
>      _______________________________________________
>      h-costume mailing list
>      h-costume@mail.indra.com
>      http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 07:40:59 -0000
Status: RO

On 19 Mar 2002 at 17:50, randl wrote:

> > Kevin Smith was a New Zealand actor who is probably best known to most of
> > us as Ares- God of War on "Hercules" and "Xena". He died last month of
> > injuries from an accident which occured on the set of a movie he was
> > filming in china. Very sad.

> > On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:35:13 -0500 "Kelly Rinne"
> > <kelly@costumedesign.net> writes:
> NOOOOOOOOO! oh mi'gosh. he was one of the reasons i kept watching the damn
> show. how sad!
> laurie

Don't worry, Xena will bring him back... oh no, this is real life, isn't it? Drat. He was 
gorgeous to look at and could actually act: definitely one of the reasons for watching.



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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:17:46 -0800
Status: RO

If anyone wants to make a straw hat, any size or shape, they can start with 
straw braid hats they buy at craft stores.  Thrift store place mats made of 
straw braid work too, and come in more colours.  They can take the braid 
apart (it's usually just chain stitched together, so this is easy) and they 
can sew it back together any way they like.  The braid doesn't care if it 
becomes a late-1700's 'Pamela bonnet', an 1840's 'coal scuttle' bonnet, or 
an 1880's 'three stories and a basement' hat.  Or something else entirely.

>Can you try resending this?  It came out as complete gibberish...
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>At 01:25 PM 3/18/2002 -0500, you wrote:

(I edited most of the gibberish out)

>Hello  Judith M sent a confusing email to us about someone looking for 
>straw hats.  I'm not sure if this is the email address to answer 
>to.  Anyways, we have a supply of low crown  straw hats (with the 5+ACI- 
>head diameter) in 3 sizes:  total diameter, 15+ACI- diameter, 20+ACI- 
>diameter (the 7+ACI- hat). If you are interested please contact us at 
>+ADw-A 
>href+AD0AIg-mailto:turtledove+AEA-gbso.net+ACIAPg-turtledove+AEA-gbso.net+ADw-/A+AD4-.+ACY-nbsp+ADs- 
>We have these stocked in Florida and in Vermont.  We are currently in 
>Florida, but this email address reaches us anywhere.  -Carol Yargeau, Just 
>Two Tailors
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: 20 Mar 2002 00:36:19 -0800
Status: RO


it isn't just one 
> pair of muddy shoes, 

Well yes, but it isn´t thet difficult to wash or disinfect shoes - that´s what they did to all travellers coming from England in all or most airports in Europe because of the foot and mouth. There can be bacteria or bugs on your shoe soles even if there´s no visible mud.

Sympathetic to California but they don´t have to be silly, do they? I mean of course you are responsible for checking that there isn´t anything illegal in your luggage but it's quite hard to imagine all the businessmen taking their shoes off and checking the soles before they enter the plane.

Riina


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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:38:39 +1200
Status: RO

> However in Australia, a Tablespoon is 20ml.  Something I always have to
> remember about when cooking from US or English recipes.

Really? Here in NZ it's 15ml. Because one teaspoon is 5ml and one tablespoon
is 3 teaspoons. At least it depends on what recipe book you are looking
at;).

We basically have recipies from everywhere on my shelves, about the only
thing in common is all of them have the temperatures in C rather than F. I
can covert metric to empirical happily in all areas but temp. I only know
"normal" blood temp is around 100F and 36C. Unless of course it's by 1900s
book which talks about fires....

In all other areas I see very little benefit either way 9except for what you
may be used to) but in temperature... C all the way. Freezing point of water
at sea level is 0C and boiling point of water at sea level is 100C. Absolute
zero is -273C. Mind you we also measured in K for physics occasionally....

This *does* have bearing on costuming btw, as it's handy to know for when
you want to dye things:D.

We happen to have a nice old set of scales with lbs and oz just in case.

michaela

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>        A millimeter is less than half of an eighth of an inch. 
> When you stop and think about it, the metric system is really
> easier than the inches and pints and teaspoons we use here in the
> US.  There are twelve inches in a foot and three feet in a yard. 
> There are ten millimeters in a centimeter and a hundred centimeters
> in a meter.  Then when you start with teaspoons, pints, gallons,
> ounces and so forth, all with their own different ways of
> graduating it is amazing that we ever learned it at all. 
> Graduating everything by ten is so much easier. 

Hey Lalah, don't forget the fiddly little ones like 3 barleycorns to an 
inch....

Not that you ever hear those being used any more - not in this neck 
of the woods at least.

Teddy


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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:39:22 +0100
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<http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/listenagain/index.shtml>

If you go to this link, then click on Broderie Anglaise. It is a very
interresting discussion in the radio. It is if you have Real Player.
It was someone on my lace list who sended this. I thoaght you would like
it!

Bjarne

Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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<html>
<body text="#3333FF" bgcolor="#FFFFFF" link="#0000EE" vlink="#3333FF" alink="#3333FF">
<http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/listenagain/index.shtml>&lt;<A HREF="http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/listenagain/index.shtml">http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/listenagain/index.shtml</A>>
<p>If you go to this link, then click on Broderie Anglaise. It is a very
interresting discussion in the radio. It is if you have Real Player.
<br>It was someone on my lace list who sended this. I thoaght you would
like it!
<p>Bjarne
<p>Leif Drews
<br>&Aring;boulevard 5, 3 th
<br>1635&nbsp; K&oslash;benhavn V
<p>Bjarne Drews
<br>&Aring;boulevard 5,3.th
<br>1635 K&oslash;benhavn V
<p>tlf. 35 37 13 70
<p>My new domain name: <A HREF="http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk">http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk</A>
<p>Homepage: <A HREF="http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph">http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph</A>
<p>Homepage: <A HREF="http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html">http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html</A>
<br>&nbsp;
</body>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 10:55:25 +0000 (GMT)
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> Just a little question about "cup size" :-).
> 
> Which is bigger? An English or an American cup? 

I have no idea (not a cook, as Jane Williams can attest) but a friend 
of mine (who is a good cook) has a father in San Fransico and a 
mother in southern England so had a split upbringing half US, half 
UK - so I'll ask her

> We use cups, pints, quarts, and gallons to measure liquids for
> cooking. What do you use? 

Jane!  Help me out here!  Erm.... From what I recall from the little 
cooking I've done... English cups, English pints, have no idea about 
quarts as I've only eever encountered them in US films, shows, 
books, and fluid ounces (or "floz" fl.oz. as they get written)

> I have an English friend who said she'd never heard of measuring in
> cups before she moved here. She used liters. (I guess that would be
> litres.) She said she was lost trying to follow our recipes. I never
> did figure out why she didn't just buy a measuring cup. They're
> available everywhere, cheap, and many even have both cups and liters!

Perhaps, like me, she came from a family that never had a 
measuring cup and never encountered them.  They came as a 
wondeful surprize to me when i moved into a house with someone 
who had one.

Teddy
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:00:38 +0000 (GMT)
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Hello Jean,

> We went to IKEA last week and bought Swedish meatballs (yum!) and
> the packet of sauce to go with them, which measured the milk in
> decilitres. Try converting that to floz!

I'd rather not have to!... though I agree with you abotu the meatballs.

They also sell Lingonberry Jam in the shop at IKEA (about the only 
place I can find it) but I was disappointed not to find the 
cheesey/caramelly spread there that I had lived so much when 
visiting friends in Uppsala.... luckily, there's a Swedish shop in 
London that sells it..<G>

Teddy

Teddy

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rocky Horror cast (WAS: things you fantasize to do in
 costume)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:09:11 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Who is Kevin Smith and who did he play in Rocky? I saw the show
> like, the very week it opened in NYC 2 years ago, with Joan Jett &
> Dick Cavett. Was Kevin S. in that cast? I'm sorry he's dead, 

HI Deb,

Sorry, I'm not enough of a dyed in the woold Rocky Fan to follow all 
the casts in all countries and I don't know *any* of the names 
you've just listed.  Michaela mentioned Kevin Smith, but I have no 
idead who he is.

I do remember seeing Tony Head (Giles from Buffy) Playing Frank 
in the stage show of Rocky Horror however, not to mention Tim 
McInnery (Percey from Blackadder)... both of whom were good in 
the role.

Teddy
(Non-fanatical Rocky-Horror Fan)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 06:22:09 -0500
Status: RO

It's actually my signature, but also a rather good philosophy--the blank
post was what a direct result of what happens when you leave a 3 y.o. close
to the computer while you leave the room for two minutes! (Criminy, now he's
sending email already. I'm in biiiig trouble with this one! LOL)

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
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Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (no subject)


> Excellent! Is this a quote or your personal philosophy? ~Deb
>
> > I don't mind going nowhere, as long as it's an interesting path
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:57:49 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Just a little question about "cup size" :-).
> 
> Which is bigger? An English or an American cup? We use cups,
> pints, quarts, and gallons to measure liquids for cooking. What do
> you use? 

OK, my friend answered my email pretty fast - she's never 
encountered cups in an English recipe she's cooked so wasn't 
aware that they were used as a unit of measurement over here.... 
no help in finding the size difference I'm afraid.

Teddy


Teddy

Bibliographical Services
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Bounds Green Road
London
N11 2NQ
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reviving Velvet
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:12:42 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> So I have two questions: will it matter if I don't attend to this now?
> ie will these things be harder to get out if I leave them there longer
> (I have not done this in the past) and what methods do others use to
> revive velvet pile on large pieces of fabric?

I'd say that if cotton velvet can revive to look good after coming out 
of a boil-wash looking like and over-wrung rag, then a little crushing 
form falling on the floor won't do any lasting harm to it.  I boil all my 
cotton velvet before I use it (often, months or years beofre i get 
around to using it) so I know it's pre-shrunk and any unstable dye 
has been given a thorough washing.  Sometimes i re-dye it at the 
same time.  If it doesn't unwrinkle from hangning, steaming  (and/or 
pressing on the back) the individual pieces once it's cut or even 
once it is made into a garment usually works well enough.

Teddy
(past master at using old cotton velvet curtains for costume)

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 09:23:41 2002
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:14:56 +0000
Status: RO

I've only seen cups used as a measure in old (1920s-30s)
"farmhouse"-type recipes. I think this would mean a big teacup, but I've
no idea how many fl. oz.!

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 03/20/02 12:57pm >>>

OK, my friend answered my email pretty fast - she's never 
encountered cups in an English recipe she's cooked so wasn't 
aware that they were used as a unit of measurement over here.... 
no help in finding the size difference I'm afraid.

Teddy


Teddy

Bibliographical Services
Middlesex University
Bounds Green Road
London
N11 2NQ
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E-mail: teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 09:38:34 2002
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From: "Jamie Zdziarski" <jamie@thecoffeehouse.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:30:28 -0500
Status: RO

Well first off you don't just cartridge pleat, you have to fill it with
something, heavier than you would a skirt, so it would be stiff.  Then
you have to cartridge pleat around a yoke in back (well I did, I guess
you could only do the sleeves, but the ppl I was doing them for wanted
it just like E.R Moores doctorial gowns)then you only line the yoke of
the gown.........but the biggest pain was sewing the velvet strips down
the front...to get them to lay right was a pain.....I'll try to get a
pic of them in their gowns from them tonight and send it to you...I have
made everything from Elizabethan to Animal Mascots and this was by hard
the most tedious and annoying thing I have ever sewn to date
LOL...perhaps you more experience costumers would have no problem ;) 

Jamie

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 9:36 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources


At 09:48 PM 03/19/2002 -0500, Jamie Zdziarski wrote:
>LOL...I read this and thought "you know this is exactly what I thought 
>too"........Then I made 3 Doctorial gowns.......I WILL NEVER DO IT 
>AGAIN!!!!!!!!!! They are a pain in the butt...to me anyhow, they look 
>simple enough, but looks can be decieving.

So what was so difficult about them?  They do look simple, like a basic
squarish yoke with the sleeves and body cartridge pleated on. Is there
something I'm missing?

For some reason, I find myself interested in academic dress even though
I've never worn it, nor am I likely to.  Oh well, maybe after I win the
lottery and give millions to charity some university will give me an
honorary degree and I can make myself one.  In silk gabardine, of
course.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:32:39 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Yup.  Same mud.  However, I guess they took pity on the cripple. : )  
> Frankly, I didn't even think about when I was packing.  I was too busy
> trying to break laws of physics by getting everything in that
> suitcase... : )

And your *really did push the boundaries!

Still working on a way to get the fabric you left behind over to you... 
looking hopeful.  I'll e-mail you direct when I have something 
definate... You really do need that black brocade Tudor

Teddy
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:12:35 EST
Status: RO

I did not want to wear one of the "Ben Cooper" type (sleazy purchase with no 
cartridge pleats and flocked velvet) but rather order a real gown, but found 
out that the beginning of the semester time when you rent was too late to 
order one custom made.  So I bought the cheap one and borrowed a hood from a 
friend.  I had grand plans of making a real one, with cartridge pleats, 
velvet stripes, and colored piping.  But then I left academia so I never 
bothered.  I still have the velvet and the piping, though.

So if you want a good one custom made, be sure you allow plenty of time.

Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 14:29:28 -0000
Status: RO

I'll come out of lurking to ask:

So, O guru of velvet curtains, do you have any good speedy tips for
defluffing them once you've boil washed them?

Lisa

(not relishing the thought of depilling 10 yards of pink velvet with a cat
hair defluffer)


--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:12:42 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reviving Velvet
To: h-costume@indra.com
Organization: Middlesex University
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

<snippage>  If it doesn't unwrinkle from hangning, steaming  (and/or 
pressing on the back) the individual pieces once it's cut or even 
once it is made into a garment usually works well enough.

Teddy
(past master at using old cotton velvet curtains for costume)

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 14:29:32 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I've only seen cups used as a measure in old (1920s-30s)
> "farmhouse"-type recipes. I think this would mean a big teacup, but
> I've no idea how many fl. oz.!

Research time....  Jane, Lissa suggested that she bring her 
American cup measures to Spring Revel on Saturday and I'll bring 
my English measuring cone with the "standard cup" measurement 
on it and we can do a comparison.
 
Obligatory costume content - all of the people at the Revel should 
be in pre 1603 costume....<G>

Teddy

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 07:39:42 -0700
Status: RO

Gjetost? I've made it...it's pretty good.  I can also buy it in a deli
here in town. <g>
--Sue

Teddy wrote:
> 

> They also sell Lingonberry Jam in the shop at IKEA (about the only
> place I can find it) but I was disappointed not to find the
> cheesey/caramelly spread there that I had lived so much when
> visiting friends in Uppsala.... luckily, there's a Swedish shop in
> London that sells it..<G>
> 
> Teddy
> 
> Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: reviving velvet
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 05:34:00 -0800
Status: RO


>
I'll come out of lurking to ask:

So, O guru of velvet curtains, do you have any good speedy tips for
defluffing them once you've boil washed them?

Lisa

(not relishing the thought of depilling 10 yards of pink velvet with a cat
hair defluffer)


Velvet doesn't usually pill.  Unless you're re-using velvet that's so old
the pile is falling off (in which case you probably shouldn't bother to
make clothing out of it) you won't even have too many of the little "velvet
boogers", as my husband so charmingly puts it. That's as long as all cut
edges are finished with serging, zigzagging, or some other method, of
course.   

If you do have a lot of fuzz on your velvet, try putting it in the dryer
with a couple of terry cloth towels. 

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Antique Book Sale
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:12:39 -0500
Status: RO

Coming out of the sick bed to let you know one thing...
The Richmond, VA Antiques Spectacular is this weekend at the Showplace at
3000 Mechicsville Pike.  This is the show with the Antique Book Fair.  Sat:
10-6 Sun: 12-5

Back to bed....
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:01:33 -0000
Status: RO

On 20 Mar 2002 at 14:29, Teddy wrote:


> > I've only seen cups used as a measure in old (1920s-30s)
> > "farmhouse"-type recipes. I think this would mean a big teacup, but
> > I've no idea how many fl. oz.!
 
> Research time....  Jane, Lissa suggested that she bring her 
> American cup measures to Spring Revel on Saturday and I'll bring 
> my English measuring cone with the "standard cup" measurement 
> on it and we can do a comparison.

Excellent idea! I've been doing some web-searching, and found lots of definitive 
answers that disagree with each other. The one thing I can say for sure is that a "cup" 
seems to be a lot bigger than anything I'd want to drink tea out of.

> Obligatory costume content - all of the people at the Revel should 
> be in pre 1603 costume....<G>

And I have my head-gear problem sorted, and just need to re-attach the sleeves to the 
dress. (Might fit them with points instead.)



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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 07:39:42 am"
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:10:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

God I love that stuff.  I go to speciality store in San Francisco to
get it -- all they sell is cheeses - and whenever i order some gjetost
the proprietor wrinkles her nose at me and asks me if i know what it is.
I just gleefully nod, and dream of getting home with it for a swedish breakfast 
with hot black coffee.

.heather.


somewhat on topic content -- I'm exhausted this morning after midterms
yesterday.  I'd never had to do a lab practical exam before -- hands on sewing -
and for my Tailoring class we had to sew bound buttonholes and welt pockets
without notes.  2.5 hours seemed like plenty of time, but I managed to push
it until the end ;)



> Gjetost? I've made it...it's pretty good.  I can also buy it in a deli
> here in town. <g>
> --Sue
> 
> Teddy wrote:
> > 
> 
> > They also sell Lingonberry Jam in the shop at IKEA (about the only
> > place I can find it) but I was disappointed not to find the
> > cheesey/caramelly spread there that I had lived so much when
> > visiting friends in Uppsala.... luckily, there's a Swedish shop in
> > London that sells it..<G>
> > 
> > Teddy
> > 
> > Teddy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "Massaria dC" <massaria@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reviving Velvet
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:04:51 +0000
Status: RO

Linda wrote:

>But what I do when I get dents, and creases in the velvets I work with is 
>use a steam iron and hold it at a distance from the fabric and steam the 
>spots out.

Yeah I tried this, but my iron only works when it is flat and so if I have 
the velvet hanging it will not steam it and I don't have enough space to lay 
it out and then steam it - the problems of a small living space.

>Do not use an iron that shoots a
>jet, as it will actually move the pile around and create matting.

Oh that is a good tip - never thought of that!

>I do not know how you have the fabric attached to the rack, but if you 
>accordian fold the
>fabric, and hang it that way the humidity might have a chance to get to the 
>areas you need
>it too. Or you could actually just move some of the fabric folds out of 
>your way and find
>the spots.

It is currently wrapped around the hanger, again 'cause it was easier to do 
it that way in the small space, but I think you are right and
accordian hanging would be better and then I can just shift the folds to try 
to steam each section separately.

Thanks for your help!

Massaria

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:24:42 +0000
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:

>I'd say that if cotton velvet can revive to look good after coming >out of 
>a boil-wash looking like and over-wrung rag, then a little >crushing form 
>falling on the floor won't do any lasting harm to it.  I boil all my cotton 
>velvet before I use it (often, months or years >beofre i get around to 
>using it)

This is good to know. I was suprised at how easily this stuff crushed. I 
have other cotton velvet, which I have just had shoved in a
box under the weight of other fabric for about 7 years now and it is
still fine, no crushing or creasing or anything, but it has a very short nap 
whereas this other stuff is quite long. I also have a medium length cotton, 
rayon backed velvet which crushes lightly under it's own weight but is fine 
if I hang it in the bathroom for a couple of days. I think the real problem 
was that I have never had to deal with so much at once, especially something 
so long and heavy.

Having had it hanging for 24 hours now, probably 90% of the creases and 
crush marks are gone, so that is good. Got say though that I would never 
have thought you could boil it!

Thanks for the help, I feel much better now!

Massaria






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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:32:16 +0000
Status: RO

Two years ago, I was doing a feast for 80.  My main recipe book was 
American, in quantities for 2 or 4.  So - divide by 2 or 4, multiply by 
80, convert to English imperial (eg the right size pints and cups), then 
convert to the measurements used in the shop, which is sometimes from a 
volume to a weight.  Can you imagine calculating the weight of 80 
pinches of a spice?!

Jean

>>We have different sized cups here.   An English "standard cup" is
>>different from an American one...<g>
>
>I don't even know what an English standard cup is; most of our recipes
>require you to measure dry ingredients by weight. I know an American cup
>is 8 fluid ounces. What I can't understand is how you measure fats by
>volume. Perhaps it's a question of learning to guesstimate?
>
>>> But how much is a quart? I always have to look it up.
>
>>Not a measurement used in England either.
>
>Oh, yes it is! It's two pints, though, admittedly, seldom referred to
>nowadays.
>Four quarts = 1 gallon
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] "Islamic Knitting" accepted for PieceWork!
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:01:26 -0800
Status: RO

Woohoo <big grin>! My knitting needles are doing a happy dance -- 
because I just got a note from the editor at PieceWork, and they've 
accepted my "Medieval Islamic Knitting" article for the Sept/Oct 2002 
issue!!

This is a first sale for me, and I am really excited (as you can no 
doubt tell!)

And thanks to everyone who made encouraging noises and suggestions, 
back when I first submitted it (which was something like two years 
ago)!!
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:11:22 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:49 AM +0000 3/18/02, Teddy wrote:
>Hectogram I'd heard of but had no idea what it is (or, for that
>matter, any concept of how much 100grams is in terms of how
>much something real wouod weigh)

For grams, think raisins. One good-sized ordinary raisin is 
approximately one gram. 28 raisins make one ounce weight. (The 
"standard" raisin for such purposes is about half and inch long and 
rubbery in texture, not too moist and not too dry.)

I remember we did " body measurements" once in Girl Scouts. Most 
people have one finger joint somewhere that's just about an inch. My 
handspan without the thumb (index finger to little finger) is about 
six inches, and my full handspan with the thumb is eight, which has 
been especially useful. As high as I can reach with both feet flat on 
the ground is almost exactly seven feet. And my index finger from the 
tip down to the top of the palm is three inches. I'm sure the same 
thing could be done in centimeters easily. (A rainy-day amusement?)

But if we went completely metric we could no longer use "A pint's a 
pound, the world around." That's a pretty good approximation for most 
ordinary liquids :) Somehow I don't see anyone making up folk poetry 
about deciliters....

>Tut-tut, and it's the same Norfolk Countryside mud as Seanan had
>on hers.  Expect the sound of sirens and theauthorities to be
>battering down your doors in the middle of the night... Perhaps
>they'll put the area around St Paul into quarantine until everyone
>and everything has been thoroughly disinfected (or burnt?).
>
>Or perhaps they aren't as bothered in MN as they are in California...
><snortle!>

Possibly not -- or they may just not have a big, powerful agriculture 
lobby breathing down their necks, "suggesting" that they make 
stronger rules. (Not that I don't understand a certain amount of 
hysteria about insect pests that would just LOVE California crops if 
they could get them....)

In practical terms, I haven't had to stop at a California border 
station for agricultural inspection for years -- they're always 
closed when I drive by -- nor been asked about fruit, mud, or 
anything else when taking a plane home to California from somewhere. 
I suspect the inspections are much more focused on commercial 
shipments.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 17:41:37 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rocky Horror cast (WAS: things you fantasize to do 
 incostume)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:33:49 -0500
Status: RO

Teddy-I am sure you know Dick Cavett!
Legendary talk show host from the '60s & 70s,
interviewed everyone interesting & cool-
Jimi, Janis, John & Yoko-among many others.

I bet you'd know recongnize him if you saw him...
He played the narrator for a while in NY.
*Great* in the role, received much applause..

Joan Jett sang 'I love Rock-n-Roll' in the '80s.
You might not remember her.

So, Percy from the Black Adder played Frank?

Deb

> Sorry, I'm not enough of a dyed in the woold Rocky Fan to follow all
> the casts in all countries and I don't know *any* of the names
> you've just listed.

> I do remember seeing Tony Head (Giles from Buffy) Playing Frank
> in the stage show of Rocky Horror however, not to mention Tim
> McInnery (Percey from Blackadder)... both of whom were good in
> the role.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 17:44:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:36:34 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

>I'm still wondering how Americans measure butter etc.
>in cups.

>Kate Bunting

The easy answer to that is lots if you buy butter in
sticks.  1 pound of butter contains 4 half cup sticks
(each stick is also 8 tablespoons).

>Is your flour sold by the cup, or by the pound? And
>if the latter, how do you take a recipe that >says
"use X cups of flour", and figure how how many >bags
to buy?

Flour and sugar are both sold by the pound, and I
usually end up buying in 5 pound bags.  Yes this does
make it interesting when you buying for a specific
project instead of just buying to stock the pantry. 
In June I was working on a lunch for the SCA and
discovered that one of my cookbooks had a chart with
cup/pound conversions which was a great thing.  I
don't remember off the top of my head how much weight
a cup of flour is but I could find it again if I need
to.  :)  

Recipes for flour say to sift the flour and then spoon
it into the mesuring cup so that it is not packed.  I
usually just run a whisk through it a little before I
spoon it in.  Of course then you are supposed to use
dry mesuring cups which allow you to run a straight
edge (like a knife) over the surface of the cup to
take off whatever flour is mounded on top of the cup. 
When the flour is even with the top edge you have (in
theory at least) an exact cup.  Interestingly I'm on
the SCA-Cooks mailing list with a lot of professional
cooks and apparently professional cookbooks don't use
cups, they measure everything by weight.

Orlaith



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Islamic Knitting" accepted for PieceWork!
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:41:31 -0500
Status: RO

Congratulations!  Remind us again in August, ok? 

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 Woohoo <big grin>! My knitting needles are doing a happy dance -- 
because I just got a note from the editor at PieceWork, and they've 
accepted my "Medieval Islamic Knitting" article for the Sept/Oct 2002 
issue!!

This is a first sale for me, and I am really excited (as you can no 
doubt tell!)

And thanks to everyone who made encouraging noises and suggestions, 
back when I first submitted it (which was something like two years 
ago)!!
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 17:53:12 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Islamic Knitting" accepted for PieceWork!
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:32:57 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:01 PM 03/20/2002 -0800, Chris Laning wrote:
>Woohoo <big grin>! My knitting needles are doing a happy dance -- 
>because I just got a note from the editor at PieceWork, and they've 
>accepted my "Medieval Islamic Knitting" article for the Sept/Oct 2002 
>issue!!


WELL DONE!!!!  Congratulations!

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 18:01:39 2002
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Antique Book Sale
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:58:17 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, evil temptress!  Someone lash me to the post before I go and spend
the mortgage money!  (The food money is already gone!)

Linda


-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier
 Subject: [h-cost] Antique Book Sale

Coming out of the sick bed to let you know one thing...
The Richmond, VA Antiques Spectacular is this weekend at the Showplace
at
3000 Mechicsville Pike.  This is the show with the Antique Book Fair.
Sat:
10-6 Sun: 12-5




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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 14:00:16 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

>Excellent idea! I've been doing some web-searching,
>and found lots of definitive answers that disagree
>with each other. The one thing I can say for sure 
>is that a "cup" seems to be a lot bigger than
>anything I'd want to drink tea out of.

On the other hand a cup is 8 ozs which is not enough
liquid to drink when eating it seems in America.  We
don't seem to use tea cups, we use coffee mugs wich
are quite a bit bigger.  If you go to your local
corner 7-11 to get a drink you can't even buy a
fountain soda that is 8 oz IIRC.  I believe that the
sizes go from 16 oz to something like 64 oz (but they
may have doubled that since the last time I looked).

Orlaith


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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:44:47 -0800
Status: RO

>At 09:48 PM 03/19/2002 -0500, Jamie Zdziarski wrote:
>>LOL...I read this and thought "you know this is exactly what I thought
>>too"........Then I made 3 Doctorial gowns.......I WILL NEVER DO IT
>>AGAIN!!!!!!!!!! They are a pain in the butt...to me anyhow, they look
>  >simple enough, but looks can be decieving.

At various times I've thought about making my own doctoral gown, just 
to get quality materials for a decent price.  But it turns out that 
my parents believe they have a tradition of buying the doctoral 
regalia for their children as a graduation present (hey, I'll be the 
third, so I think it may count as an actual tradition), so doing 
anything other than gratefully accepting the present would raise 
sticky family social-politics issues.  So I'll probably just make a 
solidly historic 16th c. doctoral robe for fun and save it for 
costume events.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 20:25:46 2002
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:02:11 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

When I got my doctorate, you had the option of either using one of the
university's gowns for not too much money, or arranging to rent or buy "the
real thing."  I, and just about everyone else, did the former, and I sort of
wish now that I'd rented the real gown. The ones we used were very generic
gowns that could be used by undergrads and grads alike--so nothing at all
special about them;  the one distinct thing we did get were the hoods (also
rented).  The actual doctoral gowns from the University of Toronto are quite
elegant--black, with wide red wool bands flanking the front opening.
Needless to say, the rentals didn't have them, and unless I return to
academia again some day, I'll unfortunately never have a chance to wear one.

Susan

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:24:43 -0500
Status: RO

OK, all this talk about scholarly doctoral robes - anyone have a link to a
line drawing or good picture of one?
-Megan


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Heather Rose Jones
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:45 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources


>At 09:48 PM 03/19/2002 -0500, Jamie Zdziarski wrote:
>>LOL...I read this and thought "you know this is exactly what I thought
>>too"........Then I made 3 Doctorial gowns.......I WILL NEVER DO IT
>>AGAIN!!!!!!!!!! They are a pain in the butt...to me anyhow, they look
>  >simple enough, but looks can be decieving.

At various times I've thought about making my own doctoral gown, just
to get quality materials for a decent price.  But it turns out that
my parents believe they have a tradition of buying the doctoral
regalia for their children as a graduation present (hey, I'll be the
third, so I think it may count as an actual tradition), so doing
anything other than gratefully accepting the present would raise
sticky family social-politics issues.  So I'll probably just make a
solidly historic 16th c. doctoral robe for fun and save it for
costume events.

Heather
--
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 20:57:27 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:44:22 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:24 PM 3/20/2002, you wrote:
>OK, all this talk about scholarly doctoral robes - anyone have a link to a
>line drawing or good picture of one?

Here's a couple of links I found:

http://www.uclastore.ucla.edu/graduation/phdreg.html

http://www-bookstore.usc.edu/faculty/regalia.asp

http://www.willsieco.com/academic_regalia.asp

At the site below click on the link for "Picture of UC Regalia"

http://www.epicenter1.com/colleges/faculty.html





  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Subject: [h-cost] Who will be wearing it????
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:27:01 -0500
Status: RO

I saw tonight on the news that a lady will be wearing a gown with 5,000
diamonds sew on it to the Oscars Sunday night.  The lady who will be wearing
it and designer will not be disclosed until that night.  The news clip
showed the seamstress sewing the diamonds onto a tea colored netting.  The
diamonds are random all over the dress and look about a half carat in size.

Any bets that Nicole will be the lucky lady?  I would be so scared to wear
that dress.  Imagine how easily a diamond could fall off or snag on
something.  I know how careful we have to be with the Diana gown for sequins
falling off.  Scary thought if it were diamonds.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: Joe Cool <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt -- Robe Francaise
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:55:25 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> Striped silk???? Oooooh.....drooooooollll......
> Wherever did you find striped silk suitable for the 18th
> century??
> I want a sacque dress so bad I can hardly stand it...

I feel your pain!

Thai Silks (Los Altos, CA). Choice of 1 and I bought it all
(sorry). Far as I know it was never posted on the website.  I
just happened to be on a biz trip from Tokyo->SF and dropped in
to the store.
In November, I saw a whole bunch of places in Singapore selling
stripes. Lots cheaper, but by that point I'd already stuffed my
suitcase with all that would fit.  Fortunately I have a pair of
good friends living there who also plays in various Silly
Dressup Societies.  She kindly indulges me.


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:59:34 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 20/3/02 6:58:12 PM, penny@costumegallery.com writes:

<< Any bets that Nicole will be the lucky lady? >>

If she wears "that" necklace WITH the dress...oh my!
Lady G
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 20:13:42 -0500
Status: RO

Great links.... does anyone make a pattern for one?
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Ulrika A. O'Brien
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 7:44 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources


At 04:24 PM 3/20/2002, you wrote:
>OK, all this talk about scholarly doctoral robes - anyone have a link to a
>line drawing or good picture of one?

Here's a couple of links I found:

http://www.uclastore.ucla.edu/graduation/phdreg.html

http://www-bookstore.usc.edu/faculty/regalia.asp

http://www.willsieco.com/academic_regalia.asp

At the site below click on the link for "Picture of UC Regalia"

http://www.epicenter1.com/colleges/faculty.html





  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 20 22:56:28 2002
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:38:58 -0500
Status: RO

Robin,
    I think I have two grad gowns.  I'll check on it. What color does it
need to be?

Cordially,
Sue Shatto
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick, MD 21701
http://wwwVictorianMillinery.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:43 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources


>
> I could stretch and make this on-topic by pointing out that today's
> graduation gowns are descendents of medieval scholars' robes. But I won't.
> I'll get right to the point. A friend of mine (who did her doctoral
> dissertation on costume reference in 12th-century literature -- OK, that's
> on-topic!) is preparing for her graduation ceremony. She wrote me this:
>
> "I went to the campus bookstore this afternoon to procure a graduation
> gown.  The letter the grad school sent out said that they were $65.  I
> went in with images of the beautiful gowns you see, sooooo professorial,
> at ceremonies and such, only to find that if I want something even
> approaching nice-looking, I'd have to shell out some $340!  I was
> outraged!  I mean, how on earth can a poly-cotton blend garment with a few
> machine-stiched doo-dahs on it cost anywhere near $300?  Arg!  Arg!!  And
> Arg!!!! ... I just had to rant with someone who would understand that, as
> the author of a dissertation about CLOTHING, I might wish to look good
> when they give me my degree.  It's sickening.  Really."
>
> Apparently the $65 gowns are acetate :-P  I asked her about rentals, but
> she apparently wasn't given that option.
>
> So my questions to the list: Is there a source online for purchasing
> graduation gowns at a better price?
>
> And, has anyone had any experience renting a graduation gown in the last
> few years? I've pointed my friend to some possible places she might check,
> such as costume rental stores and school suppliers, but it would help if
> someone has a practical experience to bring to bear.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:57:30 -0500
Status: RO


To measure solids using cups, you can "guesstimate" with a liquid measuring
cup, which is taller than what you're measuring (obviously -- or the stuff
would spill out) and has the gradations marked on it, or you can use special
sets up cups for solids. The top of these is the measurement you need. You
do not have to sift flour into these! You scoop it in (never pack it) and
then tap the sides lightly until the flour settles.

You can use these also for shortening (although Crisco now comes in marked
sticks) or for butter that comes in tubs. In either case, you pack them
tightly and scrape the top stuff off with a knife so that it's flat and
even.

Now brown sugar is interesting. Recipes call for it "lightly packed" or
"tightly packed." How's that for exact?

Flour comes by the pound, in 5 or 10-lb. bags at grocery stores or bigger
bags at specialty stores. When you're baking you add it by the cup, even for
huge recipes.

Gail Finke


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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:07:24 -0500
Status: RO



Congratulations! If you remind us all in August, sales of the magazine may
go up so much that they ask you to be a regular columnist!

Gail Finke


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From: <bec@lost.nu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:51:53 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Hi,

This is a long-ish post since this topic is on current for me, and I have
a question that I have been meaning to send to the list (at the bottom of
my posting). I have just last year made my doctoral graduation robes. I
would agree that this turned out to be a drama, although partly for non
sewing reasons. It was a very fiddly sewing project because you want it to
look RIGHT as well as stand up to the scrutiny of being worn for official
academic occasions (rare as they may be). For the person with the
original question, do a web search for academic and legal robes, and you
will come up with heaps of places to buy online.

Every year from the beginning of my program I tried to find out the
official gown specs from the University of Toronto, but they would only
give me the written ones in the university regulations, with no pictures.
They suggested that I rent the gown or have an outside company make a
custom gown for upwards of $400-$700, depending on fabric.

The 3 companies who rented the gowns would not of course give me a photo,
although I did go see them in person. They were actually pretty well made,
which did justify the cost, but I had decided to make mine myself since at
the end of high-school I had made the decision to go into science instead
of costume design, and it was important to prove to myself that I had
managed to learn enough costuming concurrent to my studies to be able to
make my own gown!

<BEGIN RANT> When the big day drew near I predictably ran out of time, so
decided just to rent and then make it myself later. This turned out to be
mistake that almost ruined the day for me. I turned up at the gown-ing
room very excited, paid my deposit and picked up what turned out to be a
shabby polyester gown in plain black! No red sleeve guards or red braided
robe-front-guards or hat or anything! The only authentic thing was the
hood. Basically we were divided into those who paid to get custom gowns,
and those that thought that they were renting the real thing but were
shafted by the cheap-minded rental company. I almost burst into tears in
the robing room when I saw it. After 10 years of post-graduate study I
wondered if I really did get my degree if I was not wearing the right
clothing specified in the university regulations. Other costume minded
people on the list will hopefully understand, although I think that my
family thought that I was over-reacting! <END RANT>

Anyway, the rest of the day was OK, but I was even more determined to make
the gown properly. I bought top-notch fabrics, in tropical-weight wools
(black and red, with a great deal from the Toronto fabric district) and
silk taffeta for the hood lining, but had to get synthetic cord (note, buy
heaps extra as it fluffs). I had little luck finding patterns for academic
gowns, so I bought a Simplicity (?) choir-robe pattern and altered that.

The cartridge pleating was tricky to do since, in my ignorance, I did not
at first line it in heavy facing as one poster suggested, and had to
un-pick it twice. I am still not happy with that and will likely un-pick
it all again to redo with heavier interfacing. My gown had very fine white
braid on the front facings and on the red wool hood with white silk
lining. This braid was a headache to sew flat, again likely through lack
of experience with such things, and sort of wobbled about what would have
been a straight line, even after I sewing it through by hand _3_times.

QUESTION

For anyone still reading, I am thinking of un-picking and re-doing the
hood braid. So, I have one layer of thin wool, one layer of medium-weight
silk taffeta, and then 1/8th inch wide synthetic braid sewn an inch from
the hood edge, all around. How do I make this braid sit flat and not
wobble about in a meandering line? Should I buy a new and different type
of braid? Where can I buy thin silk braids and tapes? Should I inter-line
the hood first, and if so, with what?

Thanks
Rebecca
--
bec@lost.nu

> From: "Jamie Zdziarski" <jamie@thecoffeehouse.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:30:28 -0500
>
> Well first off you don't just cartridge pleat, you have to fill it with
> something, heavier than you would a skirt, so it would be stiff.  Then
> you have to cartridge pleat around a yoke in back (well I did, I guess
> you could only do the sleeves, but the ppl I was doing them for wanted
> it just like E.R Moores doctorial gowns)then you only line the yoke of
> the gown.........but the biggest pain was sewing the velvet strips down
> the front...to get them to lay right was a pain.....I'll try to get a
> pic of them in their gowns from them tonight and send it to you...I have
> made everything from Elizabethan to Animal Mascots and this was by hard
> the most tedious and annoying thing I have ever sewn to date
> LOL...perhaps you more experience costumers would have no problem ;)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: cups (OT)
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:02:50 -0000
Status: RO

On 20 Mar 2002 at 14:00, Nelson Beth wrote:

> On the other hand a cup is 8 ozs which is not enough
> liquid to drink when eating it seems in America.  We
> don't seem to use tea cups, we use coffee mugs wich
> are quite a bit bigger. 

Yes, same here. Tea cups are for being dainty, with the cucumber sandwiches. They 
live in the cupboard and rarely come out.


>  If you go to your local
> corner 7-11 to get a drink you can't even buy a
> fountain soda that is 8 oz IIRC.  I believe that the
> sizes go from 16 oz to something like 64 oz (but they
> may have doubled that since the last time I looked).

I'm not sure what sizes drink come in from, say, McDonalds, but "big", "huge", 
"enormous" seems to cover it.

Beer and cider come in pints (or halves if you're being wimpy). And that's what I'd drink 
with a meal. So in fl oz that's 10 or 20. 



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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:01:43 +1200
Status: RO

> Gjetost? I've made it...it's pretty good.  I can also buy it in a deli
> here in town. <g>
> --Sue

Now I'm poretty open minded to new foods (being half dutchy can hardly stand
aside an mock food choices can I?) but I couldn't quite get this stuff. I
think I just needed it to go go slightly one way or the other. It was a bit
like a salt and sugar mixture for me. A mixture in salmiak but the salt is
actually ammonium chlodie, not sodium chloride so it's much sharper.

I think I'd need to figure out some way to use to it to really make the
flavour live for me.

michaela
who tatses the difference between marmite and vegemite. One has sugar and
the other doesn't, so there *is* a difference.

> > They also sell Lingonberry Jam in the shop at IKEA (about the only
> > place I can find it) but I was disappointed not to find the
> > cheesey/caramelly spread there that I had lived so much when
> > visiting friends in Uppsala.... luckily, there's a Swedish shop in
> > London that sells it..<G>
> >
> > Teddy
> >
> > Teddy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: reviving velvet
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 09:56:51 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Lisa,

> I'll come out of lurking to ask:
> 
> So, O guru of velvet curtains, do you have any good speedy tips for
> defluffing them once you've boil washed them?
> 
> Lisa
> 
> (not relishing the thought of depilling 10 yards of pink velvet with a
> cat hair defluffer)

Not really, I occasionally get one that fluffs up (the older/poorer 
condition the velvet to begin with, the more it tend s to shed pile that 
sticks to the exisiting pile) which seems to fall off pretty much while 
I'm making it up into something - the last bits can easily be 
removced with one of those lint-roller things.

On the whole, however, provided the cut ends are zig-zagged to 
prevent fraying before it's boiled and the area where it's hung to dry 
isn't thick with dust/fluff and threads, I don't get much problem with 
fluffing.

Teddy



Teddy

Bibliographical Services
Middlesex University
Bounds Green Road
London
N11 2NQ
Tel: (020) 8362 6405
E-mail: teddy1@mdx.ac.uk
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 09:58:55 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Gjetost? I've made it...it's pretty good.  I can also buy it in a deli
> here in town. <g> --Sue

Nope, never heard of that... can never remember what the stuff is 
called (can you tell I'm crap at languages) but that isn't it... it begns 
with an F....

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:03:37 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > Research time....  Jane, Lissa suggested that she bring her 
> > American cup measures to Spring Revel on Saturday and I'll bring my
> > English measuring cone with the "standard cup" measurement on it and
> > we can do a comparison.
> 
> Excellent idea! I've been doing some web-searching, and found lots of
> definitive answers that disagree with each other. The one thing I can
> say for sure is that a "cup" seems to be a lot bigger than anything
> I'd want to drink tea out of.

According to our measure - a "Standard cup" is just under and 
English pint, and a half pint is equal to one "breakfast cup"

> > Obligatory costume content - all of the people at the Revel should
> > be in pre 1603 costume....<G>
> 
> And I have my head-gear problem sorted, and just need to re-attach
> the sleeves to the dress. (Might fit them with points instead.) 

As he doesn't need to be there for Court, I won't be coming as Guy. 
 Hold on to your accents, folk of the Far-Isles - Eeurgh is coming to 
Spring Revel!

Teddy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:06:52 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Two years ago, I was doing a feast for 80.  My main recipe book was
> American, in quantities for 2 or 4.  So - divide by 2 or 4, multiply
> by 80, convert to English imperial (eg the right size pints and cups),
> then convert to the measurements used in the shop, which is sometimes
> from a volume to a weight.  Can you imagine calculating the weight of
> 80 pinches of a spice?!

Jean!  You are a *mad* woman!

Teddy
(lacking the patioence for cooking of anything but the easiest sort)
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:13:28 -0000
Status: RO

I think in retrospect I should have taken the few minutes to finish the
unfinished edges. Still, I'll know for next time. Think I'll try the towel
approach. Thanks!

Lisa

<Margo wrote:>

Velvet doesn't usually pill.  Unless you're re-using velvet that's so old
the pile is falling off (in which case you probably shouldn't bother to
make clothing out of it) you won't even have too many of the little "velvet
boogers", as my husband so charmingly puts it. That's as long as all cut
edges are finished with serging, zigzagging, or some other method, of
course.   

If you do have a lot of fuzz on your velvet, try putting it in the dryer
with a couple of terry cloth towels. 

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:10:21 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> For grams, think raisins. One good-sized ordinary raisin is 
> approximately one gram. 28 raisins make one ounce weight. (The 
> "standard" raisin for such purposes is about half and inch long and
> rubbery in texture, not too moist and not too dry.)

*BLEURCH!*  Raisins are horrible things - can never understand 
why people ruin perfectly good cakes and otherdishes by putting 
dried fruit in them.

Teddy

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 costume)
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:13:53 +0000 (GMT)
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> Teddy-I am sure you know Dick Cavett!
> Legendary talk show host from the '60s & 70s,
> interviewed everyone interesting & cool-
> Jimi, Janis, John & Yoko-among many others.

I don't think he ever made it over to England - if he did, he passed 
me by completely.
 
> Joan Jett sang 'I love Rock-n-Roll' in the '80s.
> You might not remember her.

Nope.
 
> So, Percy from the Black Adder played Frank?

Absolutely.  I saw him a couple of times at the Picadilly Theatre...  
Adrian  Edmondson (Viv from "the Young Ones", if you've ever 
seen that) played Brad in the same production.

Teddy
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:33:10 GMT
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :

> > Two years ago, I was doing a feast for 80.  My main recipe book was
> > American, in quantities for 2 or 4.  So - divide by 2 or 4, multiply
> > by 80, convert to English imperial (eg the right size pints and cups),
> > then convert to the measurements used in the shop, which is sometimes
> > from a volume to a weight.  Can you imagine calculating the weight of
> > 80 pinches of a spice?!
> 
> Jean!  You are a *mad* woman!

Sounds perfectly sane to me. Wasn't Pleyn Delit, was it?

I've now given up on using the American "redactions" of period recipes just because of this conversion problem: half a "cup" of raisins, times 40, is how many 200g bags? I just look at the medieval version where it says "take rasyns a grete deal and a lytle poudour of gynger" and work direct from that. Same result (I don't know what I'm doing either way), less sums.

An interesting (and costume-related!) thought: did in-period instructions for tailoring give precise units? Or was tailoring like cooking: "take a lot, cook until done"?

I just can't imagine medieval patterns saying "2 yards of 1/2" braid, 5 yards of bias binding, add another 1/2 yard for sizes 16 and above..."






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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:34:54 GMT
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :

> As he doesn't need to be there for Court, I won't be coming as Guy. 
>  Hold on to your accents, folk of the Far-Isles - Eeurgh is coming to 
> Spring Revel!

 Great! He was due some new garb, wasn't he? Anything doing, or are you still sewing?






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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 06:40:51 -0500
Status: RO

>> For grams, think raisins. One good-sized ordinary raisin is
>> approximately one gram. 28 raisins make one ounce weight. (The
>> "standard" raisin for such purposes is about half and inch long and
>> rubbery in texture, not too moist and not too dry.)
>

Teddy, in shock, writes
>*BLEURCH!*  Raisins are horrible things - can never understand
>why people ruin perfectly good cakes and otherdishes by putting
>dried fruit in them.


Well, I soak my raisins in sherry overnight or pop 'em into the microwave
for a bit.  These "happy raisins" are great in our herbed stuffing and are
simply fabulous in our bread pudding (especially with the whiskey sauce)....


Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:55:32 -0000
Status: RO

>According to our measure - a "Standard cup" is just under and 
English pint, and a half pint is equal to one "breakfast cup

For cooking ??? One can buy cooking cups fairly easily I cup isn't a pint. 

I cook from US books frequently & our cup measure seems to work fine

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:59:23 GMT
Status: RO

Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com> wrote :

> >According to our measure - a "Standard cup" is just under and 
> English pint, and a half pint is equal to one "breakfast cup
> 
> For cooking ??? One can buy cooking cups fairly easily I cup isn't a pint. 
> 
> I cook from US books frequently & our cup measure seems to work fine

Maybe you've got a US cup measure? I got one with my breadmaker.

Wonderful conversion site at:

http://www.wwrecipes.com/convert.htm

Says inter alia:
1 breakfast cup = 10 fl oz = 1/2 pint
1 tea cup = 1/3 pint
Standard cup (UK, Canada, Oz, NZ): 250ml
(And 1 pint is 570ml, so that's a bit under 1/2 pint)

And it has a wonderful list of how much one "cup" of various things weighs!




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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:22:58 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 21 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> An interesting (and costume-related!) thought: did in-period
> instructions for tailoring give precise units? Or was tailoring like
> cooking: "take a lot, cook until done"?
> 
> I just can't imagine medieval patterns saying "2 yards of 1/2" braid,
> 5 yards of bias binding, add another 1/2 yard for sizes 16 and
> above..."

Well, if you ever find *any* medieval instructions for tailoring, I'd love
to know. As far as I know there are neither patterns nor written
instructions extant from before the late 16th century, and I doubt there
were any in existence pre-1500 or thereabouts. I don't see any evidence of
standard sizes in use in the middle ages, and measuring units varied from
one place to another.

However, if you look in Stella Mary Newton's "Fashion in the Age of the
Black Prince," you'll find some references to wardrobe account references
that indicate X number of ells of wool, plus X amount of silk for
trimmings, plus X fur pelts, or whatever, to go into a gown or gowns.
Newton uses these to draw a few tentative conclusions over which terms
referred to short gowns and which to long, based on the amount of fabric
purchased for them.

--Robin


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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:21:18 -0000
Status: RO

>Maybe you've got a US cup measure? I got one with my breadmaker.

No I brought it from a British shop, I've bought several from different UK
shops they all seem to be about the same

Mel

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 09:09:25 EST
Status: RO

I know this sounds like sacrilege, but you might want to use the thin fusible 
tape and fuse the braid first, just to hold it in place, and then stitch.  
You can also buy fusible thread--stitch a line of it around, fuse the braid 
to it, and then handstitch in place.
A stabilizer might help, too--there are tear-away ones available.

Ann Wass

P.S.  The cheap rental robe is what I was referring to as the "Ben Cooper" 
one.  (Maker of the cheap Halloween costumes that poor kids have to wear if 
their parents can't sew something for them.)
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Subject: [h-cost] moths
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:03:15 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


It is best to warm the items up before placing them in the freezer to
de-moth, i.e. waking the buggies first.  For instance putting them in a
garbage bag out in the sun.  Freeze them for a few days while in a
plastic bag, then get them warm again and freeze a second time to get
any really hardy bugs.  This is what we recommended at the MFA textile
dept. in Boston.

Katy

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

On Tue, 19 Mar 2002, Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi Barbara.
>You dont have to buy a microwawe. Just put your things in the deep freezer for a
>couple of days, and then it is free of living  moth eggs. Absolutely 100% safe to
>do.
>I know because a Museum i worked for did this with everything they were given to be
>sure not to get any moths.
>
>Bjarne
>
>Barbara Maren Winkler wrote:
>
>> Here we are about to think about moving our household to Australia. Of course
>> we will give up a lot. But I don't want to lose all my textiles. Now, for
>> the 10 years I have lived in this city, I have always lived with clothes moths,
>> and each year, they devoured one or the other woolen item which was left
>> without attention in the corner or waiting to be washed or even in the
>> cupboard or as yarn, about to be worked into something... or as UFO.
>> I absolutely don't want to import any moth eggs into Australia. Besides, it's
>> forbidden. When I pack my things, I want to be sure they are absolutely
>> moth-free. Given that in this household there is hardly anything I can
>> guarantee to be absolutely moth free... does anyone have any idea how to
>> do this?
>> I was thinking about buying a microwave just for packing, microwaving
>> everything in small amounts, then packing it into closed plastic bags and those,
>> again, into cardboard boxes which will be shipped to Australia. Do you
>> think this is a good idea? How long, how high would I have to microwave?
>> Would this affect the fiber badly? Would I have to treat non-wool textiles
>> as well?
>> Barbara Maren


Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Raisins:  was Dumb math questions for non-UScostumers
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I wonder how they would be with a bit of brandy or some other kind of liq=
uor?  =20

But this thread is getting way off topic.  Maybe we should take this off =
list?
Gia/Giacinta

----- Original Message -----
From: sheilabb@earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 3:54 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Raisins: was Dumb math questions for non-UScost=
umers


Teddy, in shock, writes
>*BLEURCH!*  Raisins are horrible things - can never understand
>why people ruin perfectly good cakes and otherdishes by putting
>dried fruit in them.


Well, I soak my raisins in sherry overnight or pop 'em into the microwave
for a bit.  These "happy raisins" are great in our herbed stuffing and ar=
e
simply fabulous in our bread pudding (especially with the whiskey sauce).=
...

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1D0AA.87385C00
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>I wonder how t=
hey would be with a bit of brandy or some other kind of liquor?&nbsp; </D=
IV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>But this thread is getting way off topic.&nbsp=
; Maybe we should take this off list?</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DIV>=
&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DI=
V style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV styl=
e=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> sh=
eilabb@earthlink.net</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> T=
hursday, March 21, 2002 3:54 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>=
To:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subj=
ect:</B> Re: [h-cost] OT: Raisins: was Dumb math questions for non-UScost=
umers</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><BR>Teddy, in shock, writes<BR>&gt;*BLEURCH!=
*&nbsp; Raisins are horrible things - can never understand<BR>&gt;why peo=
ple ruin perfectly good cakes and otherdishes by putting<BR>&gt;dried fru=
it in them.<BR><BR><BR>Well, I soak my raisins in sherry overnight or pop=
 'em into the microwave<BR>for a bit.&nbsp; These "happy raisins" are gre=
at in our herbed stuffing and are<BR>simply fabulous in our bread pudding=
 (especially with the whiskey sauce)....<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTM=
L>

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Subject: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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I am really interested in going to some museums on the east coast that ha=
ve textiles.   I think someone posted something about a east coast museum=
 that has a wonderful collection of tapestries?

Cheap Tickets sent me an email announcement that a round trip tix to new =
york is 207 plus tax and to dc is 270 and I'd love to take advantage of t=
hose prices.

Sooooo....  Anyone got ideas?  I'd like to get my tix within the next few=
 days..and maybe do the excursion in June or thereafter.

Thanks!
Gia/Giacinta

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>I am really in=
terested in going to some museums on the east coast that have textiles.&n=
bsp;&nbsp; I think someone posted something about a east coast museum tha=
t has a wonderful collection of tapestries?</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>=
Cheap Tickets sent me an email announcement that a round trip tix to new =
york is 207 plus tax and to dc is 270 and I'd love to take advantage of t=
hose prices.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Sooooo....&nbsp; Anyone got ide=
as?&nbsp; I'd like to get my tix within the next few days..and maybe do t=
he excursion in June or thereafter.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Thanks!<=
/DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta<BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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> michaela
> who tatses the difference between marmite and vegemite. One has
> sugar and the other doesn't, so there *is* a difference. 

Absolutely!

Marmite is nectar of the gods, Vegemite <shudder> is enough to 
make me heave.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eeurgh
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:07:38 +0000 (GMT)
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> > As he doesn't need to be there for Court, I won't be coming as Guy. 
> >  Hold on to your accents, folk of the Far-Isles - Eeurgh is coming
> >  to 
> > Spring Revel!
> 
>  Great! He was due some new garb, wasn't he? Anything doing, or are
>  you still sewing?

The newest thing Eeurgh has is the undershirt I made at the start of 
last summer.
 
Teddy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Raisins:  was Dumb math
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:10:59 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >*BLEURCH!*  Raisins are horrible things - can never understand
> >why people ruin perfectly good cakes and otherdishes by putting
> >dried fruit in them.
> 
> Well, I soak my raisins in sherry overnight or pop 'em into the
> microwave for a bit.  These "happy raisins" are great in our herbed
> stuffing and are simply fabulous in our bread pudding (especially with
> the whiskey sauce)....

Oh yuck! Sheila!  Are you *trying* to make me hurl?!

Teddy
(Doesn't touch alcohol, only eats fresh fruit that's not had anything 
done to it, only eats meat from animals with 4 legs and won;t 
contemplate eating most vegetables - ask Jane what it's like 
cooking a Coronation Feast for a king with those sorts of food 
requirements!)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:13:31 +0000 (GMT)
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> >According to our measure - a "Standard cup" is just under and 
> English pint, and a half pint is equal to one "breakfast cup
> 
> For cooking ??? One can buy cooking cups fairly easily I cup isn't a
> pint.

Hmmm.... Perhaps I got it wrong - this is one of those conical 
"cooks measres" things - I had to try and follow the "cup" level 
around until I got to the "pints" measurement.....  I was sue it wasn't 
that much below the "pint" line, but i could have shifted my eye up 
(or down) as I rotated the cone.

Teddy
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Teddy, with your horrible nutritional plan it is a wonder you lived long 
enough to become king.  Veggies are NECESSARY for good health.  Fruits and 
nuts and berries are fine, but not for a complete diet.  For shame.  Force 
yourself to eat a vegetable at least once a day.  We love you and would hate 
to lose you to malnutrition.  And just as an aside, soaking raisins in orange 
juice makes them nice and plump and tasty.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Teddy, with your horrible nutritional plan it is a wonder you lived long enough to become king. &nbsp;Veggies are NECESSARY for good health. &nbsp;Fruits and nuts and berries are fine, but not for a complete diet. &nbsp;For shame. &nbsp;Force yourself to eat a vegetable at least once a day. &nbsp;We love you and would hate to lose you to malnutrition. &nbsp;And just as an aside, soaking raisins in orange juice makes them nice and plump and tasty. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:15:16 +0000
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Teddy, you are after my own heart! :-)

But then, I'm allergic to dried fruit.

				Arlys
> *BLEURCH!*  Raisins are horrible things - can never understand 
> why people ruin perfectly good cakes and otherdishes by putting 
> dried fruit in them.
> 
> Teddy
> 
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:54:33 -0800
Status: RO

In the late 19th century, authors of works on pattern making were still
arguing vigorously about whether it was best to draft a perfect pattern using
precise measurements, or to start with a basic muslin in a ballpark size and
do intensive fitting on it.

Fran

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Thu, 21 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:
>
> > An interesting (and costume-related!) thought: did in-period
> > instructions for tailoring give precise units? Or was tailoring like
> > cooking: "take a lot, cook until done"?
> >
> > I just can't imagine medieval patterns saying "2 yards of 1/2" braid,
> > 5 yards of bias binding, add another 1/2 yard for sizes 16 and
> > above..."
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: measurements
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:14:55 -0600
Status: RO

Re: American measurements

Firstly, I've never heard of a "breakfast" cup, though I have a _White
House Cookbook_ from around 1908 that does briefly talk about the
differences in measurements, somewhere in the beginning of the book.
Evidently, they were in the middle of the change to the modern US
equivalents. Therefore a teacup is a different measure than a coffee
cup, in the book. I'd get it out, and quote it directly, but it's very
delicate, and my daughter is about. She's not quite two years, and has
already grabbed pages out of it when I wasn't looking (she grew about
three inches one day without telling me, so it was within her reach,
unbeknownst to me). I'll be happy to get it out when she's taking a
nap or something, if any here would like me to type it up. I'm getting
really concerned about the preservation of this book actually, because
the glue has nearly totally gone, and the pages have browned and
gotten very brittle. I've had it for about four years, handled it only
a little bit, and I'm about to resort to only handling it with gloves
on. (My favorite recipe is a tonic for colicky children - one of the
ingredients is tincture of opium!)

At any rate, to the best of my knowledge, the States have only one
liquid cup measurement. It is eight fluid ounces, and also equals a
half-pint. (Or at least, so says my good Pyrex measuring bowl.) A cup
of dry measure roughly equals the same volume, though the compactness
of the contents can make for a "loose cup" or a "stuffed cup." An
example would be a cup of unsifted flour, versus the same of sifted
flour, with both having leveled tops. The unsifted flour contains more
flour per cubic unit, but they're still both a cup measurement in the
States. A tablespoon roughly equals (on the same basis) an ounce, as
eight tablespoons equals a dry cup.

Therefore, in the US,
8 fl. oz. = 1 c. = 1/2 pint, 2 c. = 1 pint
2 pints = 1 quart
4 quarts = 1 gallon

One method of resolving this question might also be to have a look at
some of the books put out by the Culinary Institue of America, or
writing the appropraite department of the US government - there are
several free government publications available on the American
measures system, though I don't really know any of the publications
numbers. I'm sure they're available somewhere online, though, or
through your local library.

Hopefully helpful,
Margaret Northwode
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <OE86erW6n8bF12ulVsa0003b946@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:51:44 -0500
Status: RO

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Gia,

You might want to check into the Textile Museum in DC.  Their phone number
is 202-483-0994.  I'm not sure if they have a website.  Maybe they have some
tapestries.  I know there is a stunning Medieval tapestry at the Virginia
Museum of Fine Art.  But that is the only one I have seen there.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Gia Gavino
  To: Costume List
  Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 10:41 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] field trip anyone?


  I am really interested in going to some museums on the east coast that
have textiles.   I think someone posted something about a east coast museum
that has a wonderful collection of tapestries?

  Cheap Tickets sent me an email announcement that a round trip tix to new
york is 207 plus tax and to dc is 270 and I'd love to take advantage of
those prices.

  Sooooo....  Anyone got ideas?  I'd like to get my tix within the next few
days..and maybe do the excursion in June or thereafter.

  Thanks!
  Gia/Giacinta



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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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</HEAD>
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style=3D"BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; FONT: 10pt =
verdana; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"=20
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3>Gia,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3>You might want to check into the =
Textile Museum in=20
DC.&nbsp; Their phone number is 202-483-0994.&nbsp; I'm not sure if they =
have a=20
website.&nbsp; Maybe they have some tapestries.&nbsp; I know there is a =
stunning=20
Medieval tapestry at the Virginia Museum of Fine Art.&nbsp; But that is =
the only=20
one I have seen there.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dgiagavino@msn.com href=3D"mailto:giagavino@msn.com">Gia =
Gavino</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">Costume List</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 21, 2002 =
10:41=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] field trip=20
anyone?</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>I am really interested in going to some museums on the east coast =
that=20
  have textiles.&nbsp;&nbsp; I think someone posted something about a =
east coast=20
  museum that has a wonderful collection of tapestries?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Cheap Tickets sent me an email announcement that a round trip tix =
to new=20
  york is 207 plus tax and to dc is 270 and I'd love to take advantage =
of those=20
  prices.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Sooooo....&nbsp; Anyone got ideas?&nbsp; I'd like to get my tix =
within=20
  the next few days..and maybe do the excursion in June or =
thereafter.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Thanks!</DIV>
  <DIV>Gia/Giacinta<BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 21 15:20:46 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:43:33 -0500
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You really should consider flying to Boston and going up to Lowell, MA. =
Here's why:

http://www.startribune.com/stOnLine/cgi-bin/article?thisSlug=3DLWTR011600=
&date=3D16-Jan-2000

http://www.nps.gov/lowe/

An entire National Park devoted to early U.S. textile production. =
Outstanding exhibits.=20

Lloyd Mitchell (Kathleen's husband)
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Penny Ladnier=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 11:51 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] field trip anyone?


  Gia,

  You might want to check into the Textile Museum in DC.  Their phone =
number is 202-483-0994.  I'm not sure if they have a website.  Maybe =
they have some tapestries.  I know there is a stunning Medieval tapestry =
at the Virginia Museum of Fine Art.  But that is the only one I have =
seen there. =20

  Penny Ladnier
  Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
  http://www.costumegallery.com=20
  http://www.costumeclassroom.com

    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: Gia Gavino=20
    To: Costume List=20
    Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 10:41 AM
    Subject: [h-cost] field trip anyone?


    I am really interested in going to some museums on the east coast =
that have textiles.   I think someone posted something about a east =
coast museum that has a wonderful collection of tapestries?

    Cheap Tickets sent me an email announcement that a round trip tix to =
new york is 207 plus tax and to dc is 270 and I'd love to take advantage =
of those prices.

    Sooooo....  Anyone got ideas?  I'd like to get my tix within the =
next few days..and maybe do the excursion in June or thereafter.

    Thanks!
    Gia/Giacinta



------=_NextPart_000_007E_01C1D0DE.648F13E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY=20
style=3D"BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; FONT: 10pt =
verdana; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"=20
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>You really should consider flying to Boston and =
going up=20
to Lowell, MA. Here's why:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><A=20
href=3D"http://www.startribune.com/stOnLine/cgi-bin/article?thisSlug=3DLW=
TR011600&amp;date=3D16-Jan-2000">http://www.startribune.com/stOnLine/cgi-=
bin/article?thisSlug=3DLWTR011600&amp;date=3D16-Jan-2000</A></FONT></DIV>=

<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><A=20
href=3D"http://www.nps.gov/lowe/">http://www.nps.gov/lowe/</A></FONT></DI=
V>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>An entire National Park devoted to early U.S. =
textile=20
production. Outstanding exhibits. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Lloyd Mitchell (Kathleen's husband)</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dpenny@costumegallery.com =
href=3D"mailto:penny@costumegallery.com">Penny=20
  Ladnier</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 21, 2002 =
11:51=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] field =
trip=20
  anyone?</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3>Gia,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3>You might want to check into the =
Textile Museum=20
  in DC.&nbsp; Their phone number is 202-483-0994.&nbsp; I'm not sure if =
they=20
  have a website.&nbsp; Maybe they have some tapestries.&nbsp; I know =
there is a=20
  stunning Medieval tapestry at the Virginia Museum of Fine Art.&nbsp; =
But that=20
  is the only one I have seen there.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
  style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
    <DIV=20
    style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
    <A title=3Dgiagavino@msn.com href=3D"mailto:giagavino@msn.com">Gia =
Gavino</A>=20
    </DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
    href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">Costume List</A> </DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 21, =
2002 10:41=20
    AM</DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] field trip=20
    anyone?</DIV>
    <DIV><BR></DIV>
    <DIV>I am really interested in going to some museums on the east =
coast that=20
    have textiles.&nbsp;&nbsp; I think someone posted something about a =
east=20
    coast museum that has a wonderful collection of tapestries?</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Cheap Tickets sent me an email announcement that a round trip =
tix to=20
    new york is 207 plus tax and to dc is 270 and I'd love to take =
advantage of=20
    those prices.</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Sooooo....&nbsp; Anyone got ideas?&nbsp; I'd like to get my tix =
within=20
    the next few days..and maybe do the excursion in June or =
thereafter.</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Thanks!</DIV>
    =
<DIV>Gia/Giacinta<BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 19:32:48 -0000
Status: RO

>Hmmm.... Perhaps I got it wrong - this is one of those conical 
"cooks measres" things - I had to try and follow the "cup" level 
around until I got to the "pints" measurement.....  I was sue it wasn't 
that much below the "pint" line, but i could have shifted my eye up 
(or down) as I rotated the cone

I'll check mine

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Raisins:  was Dumb math
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:17:16 -0800
Status: RO



Teddy wrote:

>
>
> Oh yuck! Sheila!  Are you *trying* to make me hurl?!
>
> Teddy
> (Doesn't touch alcohol, only eats fresh fruit that's not had anything
> done to it, only eats meat from animals with 4 legs and won;t
> contemplate eating most vegetables - ask Jane what it's like
> cooking a Coronation Feast for a king with those sorts of food
> requirements!)
>

Can't be any worse than cooking for a group that includes vegans, people who

won't eat pork, people who will only eat meat and gluten intolerants.....:-P

I used to go out with someone who would only eat meat and potatoes, and then

only if the meat was plain with no sauces. Oh, and chocolate of course. But
what
made me cringe the most is that he used to drink Coke for
breakfast....blech!

Claire

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 21 17:44:16 2002
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:19:44 -0500
Status: RO

Are the diamonds loose or mounted?
Of the best actress nominees this year Nicole seems like the most likely
candidate for a diamond dress. But who knows-perhaps
Renee Zellweger? Could it be a presenter who's wearing it?

I found Christina Aguilera's outfit for the past Grammys quite impressive.
She wore a vintage Madame Grès gown and Vivienne Westwood
shoes from 'Sex' in London. Sex was the punk shop where the Sex Pistols hung out
in the '70s.
Deb

> I saw tonight on the news that a lady will be wearing a gown with 5,000
> diamonds sew on it to the Oscars Sunday night.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 21 17:44:34 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Raisins:  was Dumb math
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:22:04 -0700
Status: RO


Ok, the measurements discussion was at least somewhat related to
costume, but we're back on food again.  Please take it to private
mail, thanks.

					...eliz, list admin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:25:05 +0000
Status: RO

Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> wrote
>Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :
>
>> > Two years ago, I was doing a feast for 80.  My main recipe book was
>> > American, in quantities for 2 or 4.  So - divide by 2 or 4, multiply
>> > by 80, convert to English imperial (eg the right size pints and cups),
>> > then convert to the measurements used in the shop, which is sometimes
>> > from a volume to a weight.  Can you imagine calculating the weight of
>> > 80 pinches of a spice?!
>>
>> Jean!  You are a *mad* woman!
>
>Sounds perfectly sane to me. Wasn't Pleyn Delit, was it?
>
>I've now given up on using the American "redactions" of period recipes 
>just because of this conversion problem: half a "cup" of raisins, times 
>40, is how many 200g bags? I just look at the medieval version where it 
>says "take rasyns a grete deal and a lytle poudour of gynger" and work 
>direct from that. Same result (I don't know what I'm doing either way), 
>less sums.
>
>An interesting (and costume-related!) thought: did in-period 
>instructions for tailoring give precise units? Or was tailoring like 
>cooking: "take a lot, cook until done"?
>
>I just can't imagine medieval patterns saying "2 yards of 1/2" braid, 5 
>yards of bias binding, add another 1/2 yard for sizes 16 and above..."
>
But in sewing you can always measure what you need in advance - or if 
not in advance, you make it up so far and then measure for the next bit. 
I never measure quantities for cooking unless it's something that has to 
mix for the right consistency, but it is essential if you want something 
to rise, or hold together so you can mould it, and so on - and you can't 
just cut a wee bit more off if it's too sloppy!  I think people in the 
past were just much more experienced at judging how much was needed.

JEan
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:22:33 -0700
Status: RO

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Definitely hit the DC Textile Museum -I was there a few years ago (eek,
more like 6   ).I don't remember tapestry specifically, but lots of
other historical pieces  ( Some 7K. BC stuff that was incredible-I don't
think we weave cloth that fine and intricate anymore!!)    I think the
Cloisters in New York City has the Unicorn Tapestry-I saw it there many
moons ago, but I was young and didn't know enough to ask if it was on
loan.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 9:52 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] field trip anyone?


Gia,
 
You might want to check into the Textile Museum in DC.  Their phone
number is 202-483-0994.  I'm not sure if they have a website.  Maybe
they have some tapestries.  I know there is a stunning Medieval tapestry
at the Virginia Museum of Fine Art.  But that is the only one I have
seen there.  
 
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com 
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Gia Gavino <mailto:giagavino@msn.com>  
To: Costume List <mailto:h-costume@indra.com>  
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 10:41 AM
Subject: [h-cost] field trip anyone?

I am really interested in going to some museums on the east coast that
have textiles.   I think someone posted something about a east coast
museum that has a wonderful collection of tapestries?
 
Cheap Tickets sent me an email announcement that a round trip tix to new
york is 207 plus tax and to dc is 270 and I'd love to take advantage of
those prices.
 
Sooooo....  Anyone got ideas?  I'd like to get my tix within the next
few days..and maybe do the excursion in June or thereafter.
 
Thanks!
Gia/Giacinta




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style=3D"BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; FONT: 10pt =
verdana; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"=20
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D340131921-21032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000>Definitely=20
hit the DC Textile Museum -I was there a few years ago (eek, more=20
like&nbsp;6&nbsp;&nbsp; ).I don't remember tapestry specifically, =
but&nbsp;lots=20
of other historical pieces&nbsp; ( Some&nbsp;7K. BC stuff that was =
incredible-I=20
don't think we&nbsp;weave cloth that fine and intricate=20
anymore!!)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I think the Cloisters in New York City has =
the=20
Unicorn Tapestry-I saw it there many moons ago, but I was young and =
didn't know=20
enough to ask if it was on loan.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #800000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
  h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
  </B>Penny Ladnier<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 21, 2002 9:52=20
  AM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] =
field=20
  trip anyone?<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3>Gia,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3>You might want to check into the =
Textile Museum=20
  in DC.&nbsp; Their phone number is 202-483-0994.&nbsp; I'm not sure if =
they=20
  have a website.&nbsp; Maybe they have some tapestries.&nbsp; I know =
there is a=20
  stunning Medieval tapestry at the Virginia Museum of Fine Art.&nbsp; =
But that=20
  is the only one I have seen there.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
  style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
    <DIV=20
    style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
    <A title=3Dgiagavino@msn.com href=3D"mailto:giagavino@msn.com">Gia =
Gavino</A>=20
    </DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
    href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">Costume List</A> </DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 21, =
2002 10:41=20
    AM</DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] field trip=20
    anyone?</DIV>
    <DIV><BR></DIV>
    <DIV>I am really interested in going to some museums on the east =
coast that=20
    have textiles.&nbsp;&nbsp; I think someone posted something about a =
east=20
    coast museum that has a wonderful collection of tapestries?</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Cheap Tickets sent me an email announcement that a round trip =
tix to=20
    new york is 207 plus tax and to dc is 270 and I'd love to take =
advantage of=20
    those prices.</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Sooooo....&nbsp; Anyone got ideas?&nbsp; I'd like to get my tix =
within=20
    the next few days..and maybe do the excursion in June or =
thereafter.</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Thanks!</DIV>
    =
<DIV>Gia/Giacinta<BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0048_01C1D0E3.D86C14C0--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 21 17:58:39 2002
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:00:43 -0500
Status: RO

Its a shame there does not seem to be a pattern out for the major styles.
You still would have to find out the specs for the individual school, but at
least would have a basis to start from.  I guess I'll just have to look at
pictures and guess from there.  Or rent one of the monstrosities (graduating
again in 2 months, can you tell?).
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of bec@lost.nu
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 10:52 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources



Hi,

This is a long-ish post since this topic is on current for me, and I have
a question that I have been meaning to send to the list (at the bottom of
my posting). I have just last year made my doctoral graduation robes. I
would agree that this turned out to be a drama, although partly for non
sewing reasons. It was a very fiddly sewing project because you want it to
look RIGHT as well as stand up to the scrutiny of being worn for official
academic occasions (rare as they may be). For the person with the
original question, do a web search for academic and legal robes, and you
will come up with heaps of places to buy online.

Every year from the beginning of my program I tried to find out the
official gown specs from the University of Toronto, but they would only
give me the written ones in the university regulations, with no pictures.
They suggested that I rent the gown or have an outside company make a
custom gown for upwards of $400-$700, depending on fabric.

The 3 companies who rented the gowns would not of course give me a photo,
although I did go see them in person. They were actually pretty well made,
which did justify the cost, but I had decided to make mine myself since at
the end of high-school I had made the decision to go into science instead
of costume design, and it was important to prove to myself that I had
managed to learn enough costuming concurrent to my studies to be able to
make my own gown!

<BEGIN RANT> When the big day drew near I predictably ran out of time, so
decided just to rent and then make it myself later. This turned out to be
mistake that almost ruined the day for me. I turned up at the gown-ing
room very excited, paid my deposit and picked up what turned out to be a
shabby polyester gown in plain black! No red sleeve guards or red braided
robe-front-guards or hat or anything! The only authentic thing was the
hood. Basically we were divided into those who paid to get custom gowns,
and those that thought that they were renting the real thing but were
shafted by the cheap-minded rental company. I almost burst into tears in
the robing room when I saw it. After 10 years of post-graduate study I
wondered if I really did get my degree if I was not wearing the right
clothing specified in the university regulations. Other costume minded
people on the list will hopefully understand, although I think that my
family thought that I was over-reacting! <END RANT>

Anyway, the rest of the day was OK, but I was even more determined to make
the gown properly. I bought top-notch fabrics, in tropical-weight wools
(black and red, with a great deal from the Toronto fabric district) and
silk taffeta for the hood lining, but had to get synthetic cord (note, buy
heaps extra as it fluffs). I had little luck finding patterns for academic
gowns, so I bought a Simplicity (?) choir-robe pattern and altered that.

The cartridge pleating was tricky to do since, in my ignorance, I did not
at first line it in heavy facing as one poster suggested, and had to
un-pick it twice. I am still not happy with that and will likely un-pick
it all again to redo with heavier interfacing. My gown had very fine white
braid on the front facings and on the red wool hood with white silk
lining. This braid was a headache to sew flat, again likely through lack
of experience with such things, and sort of wobbled about what would have
been a straight line, even after I sewing it through by hand _3_times.

QUESTION

For anyone still reading, I am thinking of un-picking and re-doing the
hood braid. So, I have one layer of thin wool, one layer of medium-weight
silk taffeta, and then 1/8th inch wide synthetic braid sewn an inch from
the hood edge, all around. How do I make this braid sit flat and not
wobble about in a meandering line? Should I buy a new and different type
of braid? Where can I buy thin silk braids and tapes? Should I inter-line
the hood first, and if so, with what?

Thanks
Rebecca
--
bec@lost.nu

> From: "Jamie Zdziarski" <jamie@thecoffeehouse.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:30:28 -0500
>
> Well first off you don't just cartridge pleat, you have to fill it with
> something, heavier than you would a skirt, so it would be stiff.  Then
> you have to cartridge pleat around a yoke in back (well I did, I guess
> you could only do the sleeves, but the ppl I was doing them for wanted
> it just like E.R Moores doctorial gowns)then you only line the yoke of
> the gown.........but the biggest pain was sewing the velvet strips down
> the front...to get them to lay right was a pain.....I'll try to get a
> pic of them in their gowns from them tonight and send it to you...I have
> made everything from Elizabethan to Animal Mascots and this was by hard
> the most tedious and annoying thing I have ever sewn to date
> LOL...perhaps you more experience costumers would have no problem ;)

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 21 18:47:48 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:34:09 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 21 Mar 2002, Saragrace knauf wrote:

> Definitely hit the DC Textile Museum -I was there a few years ago
> (eek, more like 6 ).I don't remember tapestry specifically, but lots
> of other historical pieces ( Some 7K. BC stuff that was incredible-I
> don't think we weave cloth that fine and intricate anymore!!)

I believe Gia was interested in European medieval; I do not think there is
much, if anything, at the Textile Museum from this period. Lots of Asian,
African, Mediterranean, ancient, folk, etc. IIRC. I have not been there
for at least 10 years, so I don't know if anything has changed.

I don't know of any medieval tapestry in the DC area. If you're interested
in European medieval art and visiting in DC, your best sources are:
  -- the National Gallery, for paintings and some decorative art (the
latter hidden away in some out-of-the-way exhibit rooms)
  -- Dumbarton Oaks, for Byzantine art
  -- the National Cathedral -- no actual art to look at, but an
excellent bookstore with a strong focus on medieval
  -- the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore, worth the drive from DC to see
one of the best medieval collections in the country, including
manuscripts, armor, tapestry, ivory, metalwork, sculpture, enamel, and
more.

> I think the Cloisters in New York City has the Unicorn Tapestry-I saw
> it there many moons ago, but I was young and didn't know enough to ask
> if it was on loan.

The Cloisters has the "Hunt of the Unicorn" series. This is different from
the "Lady with the Unicorn" series, which is in the Cluny Museum in Paris.
Both sets are magnificent, but quite different, which causes great
confusion among people who come looking for "the unicorn tapestry."

Between the Cluny, the Louvre, and a couple of smaller museums, I saw more
medieval tapestries in Paris than I dreamed were still extant. After a
while I couldn't look at them anymore, as they all seemed to blur
together. I took a few hundred pictures that I still haven't filed and
labeled, and the trip was over a year ago, so I will probably never figure
out which images are close-ups from which tapestries, even though I took
detailed notes. Bleah.

--Robin



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 18:00:33 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

> Its a shame there does not seem to be a pattern out for the major styles.
> You still would have to find out the specs for the individual school, but
at
> least would have a basis to start from.  I guess I'll just have to look at
> pictures and guess from there.  Or rent one of the monstrosities
(graduating
> again in 2 months, can you tell?).

>From what I know of academic regalia, this is because the regulations change
from school to school and from degree to degree as far as length, sleeve
styles, color, and ornamentation (placement, material, color, and size of
front and arm guards).  If your university does hoods (and most do for at
least doctorates), there's the shape and decoration of that to contend with.
It's one of the last realms of true exclusive regalia (heck, there are even
patterns available now for ecclesiastic regalia) because it would be
difficult to come up with any kind of "generic."  Maybe for a basic
bachelor's gown, but the advanced degree gowns get tricky.

Susan

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 19:14:47 -0500
Status: RO

The tapestry at The VMFA is stunning.  It is of a wedding and the lady's
gown is so graceful.  I just fell in love with it upon first sight.  It is
really large.... once upon a time, I wrote down all the info on it.  For
some reason I think one of the plantation homes here has some tapestries on
the walls.  For some reason, I think I have toured one with tapestries.
Okay, VA members do you recall tapestries in one of the plantation homes or
mansions?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:04:54 -0500
Status: RO

Well, much as I love the museums in DC (and all the Smithsonian museums there are free... though not all the others in the area (some are, of course)...)

NYC has th Cooper-Hewitt (Smithsonian's textile museum), the Cloisters (home of the Unicorn Tapestries... and other misc. that I actually found even more facinating), and for a while at least, the tapestry exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (think that's right) that someone mentioned here earlier in the week.

If you *do* come down to DC, the National Art Galleries sometimes have textiles on exhibit, there's the Textiles Museum (still haven't made it there), the Folger sometimes has things on exhibit (relating to Shakespeare and his plays), the Smithsonian's Museum of American History has a *small* textiles exhibit (not sure what's there right now), the First Ladies' gowns, the Star Spangled Banner conservation project underway, and a few various things here and there elsewhere in exhibits.  Sometimes the
Freer also has textiles from the Orient on display, but their exhibits change fairly regularly and I don't get there often enough to even begin to guess what's there.


Safest bet for Textiles is NYC.... but DC has a lot of things scattered here and there usually... among other interesting stuff.

-Elisabeth
(who, btw also rarely eats veggies... they don't agree with me in more than just taste... some of us have true "intolerances" (as opposed to actual allergies) to them that, um, really mess up our systems.... thank goodness for the coincidence of the OB/GYN I had while pregnant with my first... diets can be worked around minimal salads, increased yellow "veggies" and fruit when you need to.... makes "dieting" more complicated though.....)

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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:05:21 -0500
Status: RO



My brother got his doctorate last year, and the whole class rented from the
same place (it was a very small class, the first graduating class from a new
school of psychology). The robes were gorgeous, beautifully made. But
apparently they did not come in a wide range of sizes (or else the person
who ordered them ordered all "large"). My brother looked great, the gown
flowed properly and was the correct length. But a couple of larger women in
the class looked stuffed into theirs.

During the reception, a school employee went around collecting the robes and
hoods, just shoving them into boxes. I was shocked, but no one else seemed
to share my enchantment with these beautiful garments!

I hope to get my masters degree in five years or so. I'd love to buy a gown
but at those prices I'll have to start saving now!

Gail Finke


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 18:11:50 -0800
Status: RO

At 7:51 PM -0800 3/20/02, <bec@lost.nu> wrote:
>QUESTION
>
>For anyone still reading, I am thinking of un-picking and re-doing the
>hood braid. So, I have one layer of thin wool, one layer of medium-weight
>silk taffeta, and then 1/8th inch wide synthetic braid sewn an inch from
>the hood edge, all around. How do I make this braid sit flat and not
>wobble about in a meandering line? Should I buy a new and different type
>of braid? Where can I buy thin silk braids and tapes? Should I inter-line
>the hood first, and if so, with what?

I am a great believer in glue for handling troublesome slippery stuff.

I very often "glue baste" with an ordinary (USA) stationery-store 
gluestick, when I have to lay down a straight line of slippery ribbon 
or cord and have it stay put -- without becoming wavy or distorted -- 
until I can stitch it. Glue stick is especially good for things that 
are going to be washed, since it's water soluble and will dissolve 
the first time you wash the garment (and thus not be overly stiff).

My experience is that pinning tends to distort the ribbon or cord too 
much, and hand basting is just as likely to end up with a crooked 
line as hand sewing. But with glue, you can stretch the ribbon or 
cord slightly to keep it straight as you apply it, and smooth it with 
your fingers.

Glue stick doesn't "stick" effectively to all fabrics (fluffy wools, 
synthetic interfacing etc.) but a lot of the time it's great. (For 
those not familiar with gluesticks, they are basically a casein glue 
in semi-solid form that can be rubbed onto a surface. For those who 
_are_ familiar with them, get them at an ordinary store, don't pay 
50% more for them at a fabric store. AFAIK, it's the same formula.)

I remember suggesting to Margo when she was making my Elizabethan 
gown, and having trouble getting the braid trim to stay put, that she 
use an iron-on adhesive that comes in the form of a thread. As I 
recall, you can stitch along the pattern lines on the background 
fabric with this thread in the needle, and then lay your braid on top 
of the stitched line and apply the iron briefly to "stick" the braid 
down till you can sew it properly. (Or you can stitch through the 
center of the braid before applying it, with the glue-thread in the 
bottom bobbin, then lay it on the fabric and iron it down. I forget 
which worked better.)

When I need to stick a flat piece of fabric to another piece of 
fabric, I usually reach for my can of light-tack spray adhesive from 
the graphics tool shelf. If you spray the back of the fabric you're 
applying, it will stick smoothly to the background unless you peel it 
off. In my experience, this also washes out -- I've used it many 
times to stick paper signs to a cloth background, and throwing the 
slightly sticky background cloth into the washing machine afterwards 
with detergent (after removing the paper!) has always produced a 
quite normal-feeling piece of fabric after washing and drying. This 
is also a very, very helpful trick for applique, because fabric that 
is firmly stuck down all over doesn't bubble and warp as you're 
trying to stitch the edges.

(Another, similar use: sticking patterns to fabric. I've made an 
applique kit that has a demi-sun with wavy rays cut out of felt, 
applied to a velveteen background. It's next to impossible to mark 
the pattern on the very fuzzy felt, and it's entirely too easy for 
the rays to get stretched out of shape, so I printed out the outlines 
on my computer, stuck the printed paper to the felt, and people can 
then cut out both layers along the outline, apply the fabric side to 
the background fabric, and then peel off the paper which has held the 
"sun rays" stable.)

If you go looking for this, be sure you are getting an adhesive 
labeled "light tack" or "re-positionable". Don't get rubber cement -- 
it's too aggressively sticky, doesn't wash out, and after a couple of 
years it can damage or discolor the cloth as it breaks down. And do 
your spraying outdoors -- the stuff gets all over.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:53:00 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:00 PM 03/21/2002 -0500, Megan M. wrote:
>Its a shame there does not seem to be a pattern out for the major styles.


Hmmm...from the response on this list, and from other postings I've seen on
sewing websites, newsgroups, and BBS's, I'm beginning to think there's a
niche to be filled.  Especially if the same pattern could include both
historical and modern interpreations.  

If anyone's interested in researching such a project, give me an email off
line.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: Debra Douglass <ddoug@catrio.org>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 18:01:59 -0600
Status: RO

On 3/20/2002, on h-costume@indra.com, Meliora wrote: 
 >>> A teaspoon is 5 ml, and a tablespoon is 15 ml (per my medication
 >>> instructor).  But since flatware is not accurate, you need to use actual
 >>> measuring spoons to get it right.
 >>> -Megan
 >>> (that nursing school stuff actually coming in handy on a costume list??)
 >>
 >>However in Australia, a Tablespoon is 20ml.  Something I always have to
 >>remember about when cooking from US or English recipes.


You can use this site to get quick conversions:

http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/conversions.html

-Debra
-- 
.------------------------------------------------------------------.
|Debra Douglass          ddoug@catrio.org     http://www.catrio.org|   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:39:52 -0500
Status: RO

their website is http://www.textilemuseum.org/
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Subject: [h-cost] Another Blast from the Past
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 23:19:57 -0500
Status: RO

Someone asked me this question tonight... (Eliz, yes, the 1970s are
considered historic now)  Who was the costume designer for the Jackson 5?
Anyone have books on this?  If you have that dumb rock fashion book, I know
the answer isn't in there. (useless book)  Several bands wore this same type
costumes with all the fringe, bright colors, such as the Osmonds, Sly and
the Family Stone,  etc.  Was there one costume designer making these looks
for the rock bands?  My favorite of all the costume bands was Earth, Wind,
and Fire.  They did an HBO special that I would die to have a copy of.
Their costumes were WONDERFUL!!!  They were in this same fashion with lots
of fringe and color, but they also had large capes that they twirled around
in.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: cups (OT)
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 06:40:57 -0000
Status: RO

> >According to our measure - a "Standard cup" is just under and
> English pint, and a half pint is equal to one "breakfast cup

1 cup as used in English cooking & the same size as I use when doing US
recipes is 8 fl oz or 250ml approx. Which is just under a pint.

1 table spoon 15ml
1 desert spoon 10ml
1 teaspoon 5ml


Mel

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 01:49:46 -0500
Status: RO

Gosh, it's been a long time since I took the plantation tours.  I can't
really remember anything like that specifically, but that doesn't mean
anything at all other than that my poor brain is fried. <g> When I was
into the Big Houses, I wasn't really all that into medieval.  However,
there is a real Tudor house here in Norfolk, if I get a chance I'll get
over there and see what they've got.  Nothing worth flying across
country for, though, I'm sure!

Linda 
Virginia Beach, Va, USA

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
 
The tapestry at The VMFA is stunning.  
I think one of the plantation homes here has some tapestries on the
walls.  For some reason, I think I have toured one with tapestries.
Okay, VA members do you recall tapestries in one of the plantation homes
or
mansions?



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] academic robes
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 00:28:35 -0800
Status: RO


>I hope to get my masters degree in five years or so. I'd love to buy a gown
>but at those prices I'll have to start saving now!

This is h-costume, and graduation gowns are historically based.  Can't we 
make these for ourselves?

Kayta
(who has watched Harry Potter too much, and has decided she can't live 
without an academic robe of some sort, but will never get one without 
making it because she's a college dropout)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cups (OT) dye is mentioned...
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 20:33:19 +1200
Status: RO

> 1 cup as used in English cooking & the same size as I use when doing US
> recipes is 8 fl oz or 250ml approx. Which is just under a pint.

A pint is closer to 600ml (someone gave the measurement before as 570ml). We
used to have glass bottles for milk with the pint level marked a heck of a
lot different to a cup.
And here we go:
http://www.epicurus.com/measures.htm even though it mentions pint as being
equal to either 500ml (US) or 575ml(UK?) it is still at least 2 cups.

Actually, just to show what a hodge podge of measurements we use here in NZ.
I have a recipe that called for 110gms butter, but then goes into cup
measures for the rest of the ingredients. Oooh, just had a thought to check
my dylon pots.. on sec..(to get this partly on topic)
Ooh, it's a british product.. and has a London phone number to call.. well
how unhandy...

It has fairly haphazard conversions:
1pint=500ml and 1lb=250gms

The tin contains 10gms of powder, in this case pre dye: which is wonderful
on silk. I got 10m fuschia and white cilk chiffon to it's naturalish shade
of greyish whitish.

michaela

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Raisins:  was Dumb math
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:45:28 +0000 (GMT)
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> Teddy, with your horrible nutritional plan it is a wonder you
> lived long enough to become king.  Veggies are NECESSARY for good
> health. Fruits and nuts and berries are fine, but not for a
> complete diet.

Personally I think that's all hype and propoganda by the vegetable 
growers and vegetarians....<g>

Honestly - the very *idea* of eating vegetables is enough to make 
me want to hurl.   Last time anyone made me eat vegetables I 
actually threw up all over the place.

> And just as an aside, soaking raisins in orange juice makes them
> nice and plump and tasty.  

<shudder!>
 
Lalah


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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 01:57:11 -0500
Status: RO

Chris, these are all great ideas! Thanks for sending them along, they
will make my life much easier!

Linda


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 

I am a great believer in glue for handling troublesome slippery stuff.

<snippage of much great info>
________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 11:50:17 -0000
Status: RO


michaela wrote:

> I
> can covert metric to empirical happily in all areas but temp. I only know
> "normal" blood temp is around 100F and 36C.

Er, up to a point Lord Copper. "Normal" human temperature is 98.6 F and 37C
respectively. Remember the golden rule:  to convert C to F multiply by 9,
divide by 5 and add 32.
My temperature this morning was 39C, so I'm going back to bed as soon as
I've crawled to the photoshop to get the pics for my daughters' Year Book. I
had to get her in the right costume, of course...
best wishes
Stevie


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: pints and gowns
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:08:58 -0500
Status: RO



Actually, a cup (8 fl. oz.) is half a pint, at least the way we do it in the
US.

As far as academic gowns go, you don't have to be a graduate to have one!
Historically, STUDENTS wore gowns too, although they were different from the
ones the professors (degreed folk) had. When I spent a summer in Oxford in
the 80s, students still wore them. I loved to see one late for a lecture (or
whatever it was) running across a lawn in his gown. I assume students still
wear them at Oxford and lots of other places, just like the kids at
Hogwarts.

So if you're the kind of person who makes yourself ballgowns even though
you're not "really" a wealthy woman who spends "The Season" in London or New
York, or who wears uniforms even though he isn't "really" a soldier, I don't
see why all of us can't have academic robes. We're all "really" students of
costume and history, at least in a broad sense. Hey, we could even come up
with our own style!

Definitely do a pattern, Margo!

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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Wow!  Thank you everyone for all your input and *wonderful* suggestions! =
 The more information I have the better my trip will be!

*sigh*  So nice to be on such a wonderfully knowledgeable and sharing lis=
t!
Gia/Giacinta

----- Original Message -----
From: schnood
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 9:51 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] field trip anyone?

their website is http://www.textilemuseum.org/
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Wow!&nbsp; Tha=
nk you everyone for all your input and *wonderful* suggestions!&nbsp; The=
 more information I have the better my trip will be!</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</D=
IV> <DIV>*sigh*&nbsp; So nice to be on such a wonderfully knowledgeable a=
nd sharing list!</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQU=
OTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BOR=
DER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt=
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4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> schnood</DIV> <DIV styl=
e=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 21, 2002 9:51 PM</DIV=
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <D=
IV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] field trip any=
one?</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>their website is http://www.textilemuseum.org=
/<BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costume mailing=
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Subject: [h-cost] The met and the Costume Institute
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:24:18 -0600
Status: RO

Hi,

I'm going to Boston in mid may for my daughters graduation from undergrad school, and we 
go through NY to get there and back.

I was thinking of stopping at the Met and seeing what they had in the Costume Gallery, but 
I was perusing there website and discovered they do not have a permanent display.
They do say that it is available for students and historians.  I don't actually fit either 
of those classifications, although I do study, and am into costume historically.  Has 
anyone actually been to the Costume Institute to view their collection?  And what do you 
have to do to see it?  And is it easily accessable?

Thanks
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] The met and the Costume Institute
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:53:32 -0400
Status: RO

Dear Linda

The Costume Institute doesn't have a permanent display, as you read, but
they mount wonderful shows.  You missed "Extreme Beauty" which just closed,
but "Adrian" (the Hollywood designer) opens May 14 and I bet it will be
stunning.

The permanent collection is huge, of course, and is stored in the most
impressive museum way - cabinets, boxes, etc all acid free, temperature
controlled, whatever.  If you need to study something specific you can make
an appointment (well in advance) and the collection manager will arrange for
you to have a "backstage" pass.  There you're issued white gloves and the
article is brought to you and laid with reverence on tissue on a table. This
is just wonderful when you need to study something in depth.  As you can
see, it's not for casual viewing. If you'd like to know how to get in touch
with them to set up an appointment (they have a nifty library too), feel
free to contact me off list. I've been there five or six times to research
specific items.  It sounds scary, but everybody is awfully nice.

Be sure to check out the gallery at FIT and also the Museum of the City of
New York to see what they may be showing.  Too bad the Brooklyn Museum has a
spectacular costume collection sitting in mothballs!

Martha

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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:11:54 -0800
Status: RO

At 03:50 AM 3/22/2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:

>michaela wrote:
>
> > I
> > can covert metric to empirical happily in all areas but temp. I only know
> > "normal" blood temp is around 100F and 36C.
>
>Er, up to a point Lord Copper. "Normal" human temperature is 98.6 F and 
>37C respectively.

Yes, apparently Mrs. Fahrenheit was running a slight fever the
day Mr. Fahrenheit established the range and interval of his scale.




  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:17:01 -0800
Status: RO


> I was thinking of stopping at the Met and seeing what they had in the
> Costume Gallery, but I was perusing there website and discovered they
> do not have a permanent display. They do say that it is available for
> students and historians.

Unless your use of this list is to make costumes and only want to 
sew, then you probably are a "historian". However, they don't want 
"lookie lous", they want people researching specific things when it 
comes to appointments. For example, at the Museum of London I 
had an appointment to look at "16th Century Headdress Wires" (of 
which they have quite a few.) I didn't have an appointment to look at 
"everything you have on the 16th century".

It's actually easier in some ways than one might expect to get an 
appointment. If you are interested, write to me and I'll send you 
information.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 00:22:33 -0800
Status: RO

Maybe Margo you should offer a Presant Version of your pattern.  Just
the bodice, a full shift, and skirt.  I mean there are enough people
that want that look, they might as well have a good pattern to work
off.  Instead of that one from Simplicity.

Stephen

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> That's how I do it.  I recently taught a class in lower class Renn Faire
> costume and realized I'd been noble too long--I didn't have anything
> resembling a lower class "wench" bodice.  So I made one.  Rather to my
> srprise, I found that my standard pattern for a upper class front fastened
> bodice worked just fine with no alteration beyond using lacing rather than
> hooks.  It makes a big difference when your goal is authentic flattening
> rather than "tits on a plate'!
> 
> I made it in wool, flatlined with duck, and boned it at the center front
> opening, and with diagonals running from the corner of the neck to the
> center front waist, and from the lower front armseye to the center front
> waist.  These two pairs of diagonals flattened my bosom quite adequately
> and gave me  comfortable support.  I'm a size 28 C-D cup.
> 
> You can see a picture of the results here:
> http://www.margospatterns.com/MayClass.htm
> 
> Which is probably the only time anyone's ever going to see me wearing the
> Generic Wench, brass grommets and all.  That's my Flemish attempt next to
> me, but it doesn't fit that dress form at all.
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
> See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 16:02:00 -0500
Status: RO

Linda,
Check out some exhibit catalogs from the Met such as 'In Style,' 'Bloom',
'Fashion & Surrealism', etc., then make a list of pieces you'd be
interested in studying. Then when you call you'll have some points of
reference.
Once you are at the Met, be very scholarly. Bring everything needed to
study a garment-sketch pads, take lots of notes, make diagrams, etc. If I
remember right, they have tape measures there for you to use. Also, you can
take non-flash pictures but it's tricky with the funky lighting. I went
there once to study that sublime c.1927 Boue Soeurs court gown in the 'In
Style' book. Managed to talk this guy I knew at the time who was a
photographer, to go with me and take the photos for me. He took 2 rolls of
the dress which came out pretty well, except the pink was a bit off in some
shots. You have to use  special film & have a filter on the lens-I forget
what type, but the people at the Met should know all this. It takes a bit
of planning and work, but if you enjoy costume, you'll really cherish the
hands-on work and you will be so glad you actually did it.
Have fun!
Deb


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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:33:55 +0000
Status: RO

Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote
>
>
>My brother got his doctorate last year, and the whole class rented from the
>same place (it was a very small class, the first graduating class from a new
>school of psychology). The robes were gorgeous, beautifully made. But
>apparently they did not come in a wide range of sizes (or else the person
>who ordered them ordered all "large"). My brother looked great, the gown
>flowed properly and was the correct length. But a couple of larger women in
>the class looked stuffed into theirs.
>
>During the reception, a school employee went around collecting the robes and
>hoods, just shoving them into boxes. I was shocked, but no one else seemed
>to share my enchantment with these beautiful garments!
>
>I hope to get my masters degree in five years or so. I'd love to buy a gown
>but at those prices I'll have to start saving now!
>
>Gail Finke

This made me giggle - "the whole class rented from the same place".  I 
know the UK is smaller than many states, but there is basically one 
supplier here.  Ede and Ravenscroft do academic gowns, legal gowns and 
wigs, and clerical clothing.  As I remember it, when you get the details 
of your graduation, you get a card with their details and you pretty 
much just tick off which University, which degree and whether you want 
to keep the gown for an extra few hours to get photos taken.  They take 
over a big hall near the graduation hall and the machine just rolls into 
action to get everyone their right kit.  I don't remember what they were 
like for width, (since ours were worn open, it didn't make much 
difference) but they tend to be all much the same length, so they range 
from ankle length to knee length, depending on height.

The more specialised gowns they probably make specially if necessary. 
Jessye Norman got an honorary degree at my ceremony, which was a bright 
red closed gown with braiding on.  She certainly wouldn't have put up 
with being stuffed in, and she looked _magnificent_.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 14:16:27 -0800
Status: RO


>As far as academic gowns go, you don't have to be a graduate to have one!
>Historically, STUDENTS wore gowns too, although they were different from the
>ones the professors (degreed folk) had. When I spent a summer in Oxford in
>the 80s, students still wore them. I loved to see one late for a lecture (or
>whatever it was) running across a lawn in his gown. I assume students still
>wear them at Oxford and lots of other places, just like the kids at
>Hogwarts.
>
>So if you're the kind of person who makes yourself ballgowns even though
>you're not "really" a wealthy woman who spends "The Season" in London or New
>York, or who wears uniforms even though he isn't "really" a soldier, I don't
>see why all of us can't have academic robes. We're all "really" students of
>costume and history, at least in a broad sense. Hey, we could even come up
>with our own style!

If I do it right, I can wear it for German Ren, which is where the 
'coolest' ones came from in the first place.  Or I could do the Harry 
Potter one I want.  Or both.  And I can always use it for a bathrobe in the 
winter.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 13:31:07 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:22 AM 03/23/2002 -0800, Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
>Maybe Margo you should offer a Presant Version of your pattern.  Just
>the bodice, a full shift, and skirt.  I mean there are enough people
>that want that look, they might as well have a good pattern to work
>off.  Instead of that one from Simplicity.
>
I thought about it, but concluded that Alter Years already has it pretty
well covered with their peasant shift, skirt, and bodice patterns.  Also,
as I've mentioned before, I'm not all that convinced that the Basic Wench
is really in tune with historical accuracy, which is the focus of my
company's offerings.  

I'm inclined to believe that the Market Woman's look, as exemplified by
Drea's website and book, is far closer to reality.   The good news is that
Drea and I will be collaborating on a Market Woman's Wardrobe pattern,
hopefully within the next year.  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 18:30:37 EST
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In a message dated 3/22/02 6:16:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
margo@margospatterns.com writes:


> .   The good news is that
> Drea and I will be collaborating on a Market Woman's Wardrobe pattern,
> hopefully within the next year.  
       
       When can we preorder?

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/22/02 6:16:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, margo@margospatterns.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">. &nbsp;&nbsp;The good news is that
<BR>Drea and I will be collaborating on a Market Woman's Wardrobe pattern,
<BR>hopefully within the next year. &nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<B>When can we preorder?</B>
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Diamond studded gown wearer revealed!
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 17:41:49 -0600
Status: RO


According to news accounts which I have been hearing, the diamond studded
gown we were speculating on will not be worn by an actress nominee at
all. It will be worn by entertainment reporter Jules Asner of 'E!'
Entertainment fame. It is reported to be worth 5 million dollars. The
gown is currently under 24 hour guard and will be auctioned off for
charity after the awards ceremony.


Karen

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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 19:25:03 -0500
Status: RO

O-oh. Yes that makes sense since the pre show fashion extravaganza
is presented by E! I wonder if Jules is related to the actor
Ed Asner-anyone know?
Deb

>  It will be worn by entertainment reporter Jules Asner of 'E!'
> Entertainment fame.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Diamond studded gown wearer revealed!
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 19:25:13 -0500
Status: RO

How disappointing, unless you're Jules Asner! It would've made a bigger
statement if Nicole wore it and would've put it in league w/ Marilyn
Monroe's crystal studded "nude" gown.
laurie

> According to news accounts which I have been hearing, the diamond studded
> gown we were speculating on will not be worn by an actress nominee at
> all. It will be worn by entertainment reporter Jules Asner of 'E!'
> Entertainment fame. It is reported to be worth 5 million dollars. The
> gown is currently under 24 hour guard and will be auctioned off for
> charity after the awards ceremony.
> 
> 
> Karen
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Mar 22 21:31:55 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Diamond studded gown wearer revealed!
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 20:10:43 -0500
Status: RO

Karen,

Where did you here this from about Jules?  A quote from the LA Times about
the dress:

"The important thing is to make sure not too many people hug the star
wearing the dress," jokes Glenn Rothman the diamond company's president."

Which leads me to think a *real* star would be wearing the dress not Jules.
And Jules hasn't done the pre-show before.  That has been Joan and Melissa's
job for the past few years on E!  I have seen it advertised on E! that J&M
were doing it again this year.  I really question Jules wearing a nice dress
too because her reputation is for screwing around.  I would want someone
with that kind of rep wearing that expensive of a gown.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Diamond studded gown wearer revealed!
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 15:52:51 -0800
Status: RO

 I really question Jules wearing a nice dress
>too because her reputation is for screwing around.  I would want someone
>with that kind of rep wearing that expensive of a gown.

So hussies shouldn't wear expensive dresses?  This is *Hollywood* we're
talking about, Penny!


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:03:28 -0500
Status: RO

Here they are http://www.costumegallery.com/OAwards.htm

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Mar 22 23:33:05 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The met and the Costume Institute
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 19:23:06 -0800
Status: RO

>You have to
> use  special film & have a filter on the lens-I forget what type, but
> the people at the Met should know all this.

Probably Tungsten film with a filter to get rid of the fluorescent 
green. If they are just using regular incandescent lights you can 
just use the tungsten film without a special filter.

If you use regular daylight film, it will be very yellow (if 
incandescent) or very green (if fluorescent.)

I had never used tungsten film, but I've been finding it a lot nicer 
than losing an f-stop to the filter for incandecent when using regular 
daylight film.

If you get a permit from the Met, you can usually use a tripod and 
get longer exposures (so that your film grain will be smaller than if 
you have to use faster film.)

Last time I went to the Met I used some Provia 1600. However, it 
came out so yellow that I will probably try to reshoot everything I 
can when I go back. The tungsten film has a max ISO of 320 
(although you can push it to 1280 they tell me, but that still isn't 
1600 which was not as good as I would like.) However, I was 
working without a tripod (because I didn't think that I could get one 
because it sounded so restrictive. I was told otherwise when they 
noticed me shooting.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 23:21:38 -0600
Status: RO

It was discussed on 'E!' Live tonight and there was also an article on it
on the lycos news service. The story was credited to Associated Press so
it seems to have reasonable validity. 'E!' has just expanded their 'news'
coverage so they may be adding to their usual red carpet coverage.


Karen

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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 02:26:54 -0800
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>Here they are http://www.costumegallery.com/OAwards.htm

*Opinion alert*

So what's all the fuss?  Expensive, yes.  But the value of the gems don't 
improve a very ordinary dress and pair of shoes.


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 15:09:33 -0000
Status: RO

> 1 cup as used in English cooking & the same size as I use when doing US
> recipes is 8 fl oz or 250ml approx. Which is just under a pint.

A pint is closer to 600ml (someone gave the measurement before as 570ml). We
used to have glass bottles for milk with the pint level marked a heck

Ops that should have been half a pint too early in the morning ! Sorry !!

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] 1780's Stocking Weaving
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 23:40:16 +1100
Status: RO

Hi all,

My mum is currently researching some of our ancestors, and found a young
gent who has his occupation in England in 1790 listed as "Stocking Weaver".

Mum did a small amount of investigation and found that this might have
something to do with industrialised lace-making?

Can anyone give any help or pointers as to where we could find further info
about this occupation and process?

Thanks
Melissa.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1780's Stocking Weaving
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:00:58 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Melissa,

      A good start is the Shire Album _Framework Kntting_.

>Hi all,
>
>My mum is currently researching some of our ancestors, and found a 
>young gent who has his occupation in England in 1790 listed as 
>"Stocking Weaver".
>
>Mum did a small amount of investigation and found that this might 
>have something to do with industrialised lace-making?
>
>Can anyone give any help or pointers as to where we could find 
>further info about this occupation and process?
>
>Thanks
>Melissa.
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:16:10 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 23/3/02 4:36:15 AM, kayta@frys.com writes:

<< So what's all the fuss?  Expensive, yes.  But the value of the gems don't 
improve a very ordinary dress and pair of shoes. >>

My initial response was similar. Maybe it will look better ON?
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Diamond Gown and Shoe Photos
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 10:27:49 -0600
Status: RO

Shoes look kinda clunky but I agree. Perhaps they will look better on. :)

It would make sense that the dress would be worn by someone that will have
the most coverage on camera. If worn by a star we will glimpse it for 10
seconds as she walks by with 15 other stars around her. If the reporter type
is wearing it the dress gets most if not all the attention the full time of
the coverage.

Still, a historical moment in costuming, kinda like the American express
dress. Or is it a historical moment in design? Not a flattering cut for the
dummy that is for sure. (the dress dummy...)

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Ansteorra, Steppes, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤
----- Original Message -----
From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Diamond Gown and Shoe Photos


>
> In a message dated 23/3/02 4:36:15 AM, kayta@frys.com writes:
>
> << So what's all the fuss?  Expensive, yes.  But the value of the gems
don't
> improve a very ordinary dress and pair of shoes. >>
>
> My initial response was similar. Maybe it will look better ON?
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 12:07:35 -0700
Status: RO

Is there something special about millinary wire?  If I want to use wire
in a hat, as long as it is stainless steel and is of the right gage is
there any reason to buy "millinery wire"?

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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 20:23:24 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Meliora.
I dont think a stocking weaver has anything to do with lace. I think it is a
person that takes care of the stocking knitting machine. I am not absolutely
sure, but i think so....

Bjarne

Meliora wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> My mum is currently researching some of our ancestors, and found a young
> gent who has his occupation in England in 1790 listed as "Stocking Weaver".
>
> Mum did a small amount of investigation and found that this might have
> something to do with industrialised lace-making?
>
> Can anyone give any help or pointers as to where we could find further info
> about this occupation and process?
>
> Thanks
> Melissa.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Millinery Wire
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 20:31:48 +0100
Status: RO

Hello

Millinnary wire is whipped arround the wire with either black or white
thread. This thread helps your buttonhole stitches to stay in place. It
easily slides when you just buttonholes a "naked" steel.
This is my experiments with this......

Bjarne

Saragrace knauf wrote:

> Is there something special about millinary wire?  If I want to use wire
> in a hat, as long as it is stainless steel and is of the right gage is
> there any reason to buy "millinery wire"?
>
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--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar 23 16:50:55 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Blast from the Past
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 13:41:40 -0700
Status: RO

On Thu, Mar 21, 2002 at 11:19:57PM -0500, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Was there one costume designer making these looks
> for the rock bands?

Arrgh, I remember reading something about this a few years ago, I
think it was an interview with a guy who designed and made a lot of
them.

Here's a good link - the info on the CI show ROCK STYLE from a couple
of years ago, listing designers.  No pics, but there is a catalog you
can buy.
	http://www.fashionmall.com/museum/full_list.asp


					...eliz
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From: "Meliora" <meliora@webone.com.au>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1780's Stocking Weaving
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 08:38:28 +1100
Status: RO

Hi Bjarne,

> Hi Meliora.
> I dont think a stocking weaver has anything to do with lace. I
> think it is a
> person that takes care of the stocking knitting machine. I am not
> absolutely sure, but i think so....
> Bjarne

That's what we thought too - but then she found vague references to
lace-making at the same time, hence the reason for the original query to
find out a definitive answer :)

Regards
Mel.

> Meliora wrote:
>
> > Hi all,

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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 17:41:44 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks Eliz... I wish I could have gone to that exhibit!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 23:28:00 +0000
Status: RO

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote
>
>>As far as academic gowns go, you don't have to be a graduate to have one!
>>Historically, STUDENTS wore gowns too, although they were different from the
>>ones the professors (degreed folk) had. When I spent a summer in Oxford in
>>the 80s, students still wore them. I loved to see one late for a lecture (or
>>whatever it was) running across a lawn in his gown. I assume students still
>>wear them at Oxford and lots of other places, just like the kids at
>>Hogwarts.
>>
I don't think students at Oxford and Cambridge wear their gowns except 
for exams (if you were there in the summer, it was probably exam time). 
I do know that students at St Andrews still wear their bright red ones a 
lot of the time (graduates get black gowns - maybe they want to be able 
to see where the students are!).  There's a strict code about how you 
wear it - first years must wear it properly, on both shoulders, second 
and third years wear it off one or the other, and final year get to wear 
it off both shoulders. Not very practical, but it's a status thing.

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Money tree (was footwear)
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 20:00:27 -0500
Status: RO

>Hey Melanie, 
>
>How about picking a tree, and charging people for watching when 
>you climb it in full farthingale looking for money to gather?
>
>Of course, they'd be more likely to give money to a sponsored 
>Elizabethan tree-climb if it were for a charity.... I know *we* would 
>consider period shoes for a costumer as a Good Cause, but most 
>of your paying public might have different ideas....<G>
>
>Teddy

Sounds like a conversation I had with a couple of friends at MTA.  We were
discussing period undergarments, which got the guys who were standing
nearby very interested (usually when we discuss women's clothing they tune
out).  Obviously, what we need at the event next year is a multi-period
striptease - down to shift level only, of course! - so we can all examine
each other's underclothes and see what really IS worn underneath the outer
layers.  And can do it as a fundraiser while we're at it, to benefit our
fabric stash funds ;O

-- Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 18:37:22 -0800
Status: RO


><< So what's all the fuss?  Expensive, yes.  But the value of the gems don't
>improve a very ordinary dress and pair of shoes. >>
>
>My initial response was similar. Maybe it will look better ON?

I mean, they could have gotten the same effect, visually, with fake 
diamonds, or even sequins.  I guess visual was not what they were going 
for.  Viewer interest, perhaps, or bragging rights.  (If I had that many 
diamonds and didn't know what to do with them, I'd hire someone like Margo 
to do an entire German Ren. wardrobe.)

Kayta
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 20:08:41 -0800
Status: RO

At 06:37 PM 03/23/2002 -0800, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
(If I had that many 
>diamonds and didn't know what to do with them, I'd hire someone like Margo 
>to do an entire German Ren. wardrobe.)

I no longer accept custom comissions, but I might yield for that project!
If I hear you've won the lottery, I'll be awaiting your call.

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 24 01:18:07 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1780's Stocking Weaving
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 23:54:47 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Melissa,

      Sorry to be so brief before.  Stocking weavers are those who 
make hosiery on a knitting frame.  As knitting frames developed, a 
point bar was added which allowed for the knitting of lacy patterns. 
The points are a series of metal pieces that can transfer a stitch to 
an adjacent needle, making the openwork.  Knitting frames were the 
beginning of lacemaking machines.

       -Carol
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 24 09:25:26 2002
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 14:03:03 +0100
Status: RO

Hey yes, that is a good idea.
There was a similar show some years back where the hairdressers who makes
historical hairstyles shared their show with a design school.
There was an 18th century lady who got undressed at the stage to her chemise
and a civil war lady two. It was very popular!!!

Bjarne

Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:

> >Hey Melanie,
> >
> >How about picking a tree, and charging people for watching when
> >you climb it in full farthingale looking for money to gather?
> >
> >Of course, they'd be more likely to give money to a sponsored
> >Elizabethan tree-climb if it were for a charity.... I know *we* would
> >consider period shoes for a costumer as a Good Cause, but most
> >of your paying public might have different ideas....<G>
> >
> >Teddy
>
> Sounds like a conversation I had with a couple of friends at MTA.  We were
> discussing period undergarments, which got the guys who were standing
> nearby very interested (usually when we discuss women's clothing they tune
> out).  Obviously, what we need at the event next year is a multi-period
> striptease - down to shift level only, of course! - so we can all examine
> each other's underclothes and see what really IS worn underneath the outer
> layers.  And can do it as a fundraiser while we're at it, to benefit our
> fabric stash funds ;O
>
> -- Mara
> Kevin + Mara Riley
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 11:45:46 -0500
Status: RO

Best advice is to get a Tandy Leather catalog [IIRC they are
online] and they sell premade tanning solutions, both hair on and
hair off solutions. They are quite reasonably proced. I used to
use the hair on to do my sheepskins.
margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
Quoth
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 12:26:34 -0500
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ISn't gjetost simply whey that is heated gently until it
condenses? I have made that as a way to use up excess wheyt from
cheesemaking.
margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
Quoth
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 12:32:52 -0500
Status: RO

Do you actually work at the aquarium?
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration's mission is to inspire
> people
> everywhere to care about and protect our oceans by exploring and sharing
> their biological, ecological and cultural treasures. The not-for-profit
> Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration are divisions of Sea Research
> Foundation, Inc.
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 12:44:13 -0500
Status: RO

American express dress?
What is an american express dress?
margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> Still, a historical moment in costuming, kinda like the American express
> dress. Or is it a historical moment in design? Not a flattering cut for the
> dummy that is for sure. (the dress dummy...)
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 13:02:46 EST
Status: RO

The American Express Dress was a dress made of American Express Gold cards.
Connected by "chain mail".

I suppose if you were REALLY among the elite, it would be made of platinum 
cards today.

Conversely, the peasant American Express dress would be made of green and 
white, mundane American Express cards, with the underpinnings possibly of 
unpaid bills.

Katrin
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 10:07:02 -0800
Status: RO

The costume designer for 'Priscilla, Queen of the Desert' got an Oscar that 
year.  At the presentation she went up to collect her Oscar wearing a dress 
made of many many American Express Gold cards, punched at the corners and 
held together with jump rings.  American Express made a big fuss and tried 
to get it back from her, but apparently she'd gotten all the cards in a 
legal manner.  So they ended up buying it from her, price not disclosed, 
and afterwards displayed it for promotional purposes.  There was a similar 
dress in the film, made of rubber sandals jump-ringed together.

>American express dress?
>What is an american express dress?

> > Still, a historical moment in costuming, kinda like the American express
> > dress. Or is it a historical moment in design? Not a flattering cut for the
> > dummy that is for sure. (the dress dummy...)


Kayta
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 13:20:59 -0500
Status: RO

Ah, sounds very uncomfortable.

I guess that I am seriously unamerican, I just got my first
credit card, at the ripe old age of 40, simply because it came
with my account at my credit union, they will either auto deduct
the monthly payment or payment in full from my account every
month for me, and I am using it specifically for my work and car
expenses. I figure that we are moving to arizona in about 3
years, and with the car loan, and this credit card I can get a
better credit rating for when we go to get a mortgage for
building my dream house.

margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
description of american express dress snipped.
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 19:07:06 -0000
Status: RO

On 23 Mar 2002 at 23:28, Jean Waddie wrote:


Whan I was there (OK, this is a while ago), gowns were worn for graduation (June) and 
for matriculation (October). Some of the older colleges also required them to be worn 
for formal dinners, but mine didn't. You didn't have to wear them for exams. So most of 
us hired gowns at the beginning and end of our academic lives, and never needed them 
in between.



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Subject: [h-cost] Henk!!!!
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 23:24:22 -0800
Status: RO


Hello

I seem to have lost the site address for Henk's site.  Could either Henk
or anyone who has it please post it.  There is something I have to
double check.

Thanks

Stephen
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 18:23:21 -0500
Status: RO

We have two new classes at the Costume Classroom taught by Stephen Bergdahl.
The first one is part of our Clone Yourself series:  Make a Simple Tailored
Jacket.  The second class, Stephen will be using Margo Anderson's
Elizabethan pattern for the class, Making an Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe:
Outer Garments.  This class will not be taught until October but there has
been a lot of interest for this class since he is teaching the Elizabethan
Under Garments class in April.  So sign up early if you want a spot in the
class.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henk!!!!
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 17:12:19 -0700
Status: RO

Here ya go, Stephen....

http://home-4.worldonline.nl/~t701065/ or
http://scapreel.club.tip.nl/

--Sue

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
> 
> Hello
> 
> I seem to have lost the site address for Henk's site.  Could either Henk
> or anyone who has it please post it.  There is something I have to
> double check.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] gjetost
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 17:23:49 -0700
Status: RO

Uh, specifically, it's the whey left after making cheese from goat's
milk.  The cow's milk version is known as "mjetost."  Nummy stuff. 
Takes a *long* time to cook down.
--sue

marilyn traber wrote:
> 
> ISn't gjetost simply whey that is heated gently until it
> condenses? I have made that as a way to use up excess wheyt from
> cheesemaking.
> margali
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 04:20:51 -0800
Status: RO

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> Here ya go, Stephen....
> 
> http://home-4.worldonline.nl/~t701065/ or
> http://scapreel.club.tip.nl/
> 
> --Sue
> 
> Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
> >
> > Hello
> >
> > I seem to have lost the site address for Henk's site.  Could either Henk
> > or anyone who has it please post it.  There is something I have to
> > double check.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Stephen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] field trip anyone?
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:32:41 -0800
Status: RO

At 07:41 AM 3/21/02 -0800, Gia Gavino wrote:
>I am really interested in going to some museums on the east coast that 
>have textiles.   I think someone posted something about a east coast 
>museum that has a wonderful collection of tapestries?
>

I'm planning to go to NYC the first weekend in June to see the Adrian 
exhibit at the Met.

For the Medievalists among us, the Pierpont Morgan Library has an 
extraordinary collection
of illustrated Medieval and Renaissance manuscripts. For a glimpse, go here:

http://www.morganlibrary.org/collections/medren/html/index.html


Sally Norton
GBACG Webmaster
http://www.gbacg.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 18:22:08 -0800
Status: RO

A few months ago someone mentioned a new pattern line called Fig Leaf
Patterns.  Their website is finally up and running at:
http://www.figleafpatterns.com/

The patterns that they are currently offering are:

1771 Open Robe
1795 Work Dress
1799 Long-Sleeved Bib-Front Dress
1799 Apron
1857 Day Dress
1859 Day Dress
1889 Four Piece Ensemble
1855 Cage Crinoline
1860 Dress from Peachtree Mercantile (the one created by the Atlanta History
Center)
1917 Officer's Trench Coat

Now, I have to ask -- has anyone used these patterns?  Any reviews?

- Kendra


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Graduation gown sources
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 00:48:31 -0800
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

> So my questions to the list: Is there a source online for purchasing
> graduation gowns at a better price?

Look up Ecclesiastical Suppliers.  When I wanted to go to the local country
dance Halloween party as my favorite dance I needed a priest (Jesuit)
robe.  Most of the suppliers also carried gowns of various sort. There were
even a few that had webpages and a means of finding a local store.  


(In case anyone was  wondering which County Dance: John Tallas Cannon)

Your humble and obedient servant,
David S Mallinak
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Subject: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 22:09:37 -0800
Status: RO

Oooh, I get to be first!  

The Worst Dressed Award is a surprise: Gwyneth Paltrow.  Someone get her a
bra and some mascara remover, please.  A new hairdo wouldn't hurt, either.

The woman who won for Best Supporting actress, I forget her name, could use
a sandwich while you're up.  And tell her, if you haven't got anything to
hold up a strapless dress other than the bones in your chest, consider a
different cut, please. 

Sharon Stone's gown was, well, audacious.  If the back were an inch lower,
she'd look like a piggy bank. 

The Men's Unfortunate Tailoring Award had many contenders, but I think the
winner has to be the makeup artist in the fringed Tuxedo. and what was with
all the men in dark business suits and ties?  I know these guys can afford
to rent a tux!

Halle Barry's dress was a museum quality gown for a historic event.
Additional points to whoever did her makeup in such a way that she still
looked great after crying that hard.  

Whoopee Goldberg's clothes were marvelous, all hand dyed silks and velvets,
accented with great jewels. I want her wardrobe.  I also want Barbara
Streisand's ruby necklace, but not that piano-shawl-gone-amok of a dress.

So am I h-costume's Mr Blackwell, or what?  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 02:09:45 -0500
Status: RO

Margo wrote:

> The woman who won for Best Supporting actress, I forget her name, could
use
> a sandwich while you're up.  And tell her, if you haven't got anything to
> hold up a strapless dress other than the bones in your chest, consider a
> different cut, please.
>

This was Jennifer Connelly-- anyone else remember her in "Labyrinth"?  :)

Lyn Greaves
Lady Rosamund d'Alwareton, CM, OTerp, OSalamander

Remember: Amateurs built the ark, but professionals built the Titanic


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 01:23:29 -0600
Status: RO

I missed most of the ceremonies and all of the pre-show- :-( But I
thought that Jennifer Connolly (Best Supporting Actress) looked
positively emaciated! She used to have a very lush '40's style figure
(check her out in "Rocketeer") and it looks like she has just dropped a
bunch of weight and it doesn't suit her. And the color of that gown just
washed her out completely, she has very strong natural color and needs a
dress with some color to it to look her best. Too bad as she is really a
very beautiful woman and coudl look so much better. I thought that Halle
Berry's gown was fab!!! I can't say enough- it was a daring look that she
pulled off prefectly and that made her look totally beautiful. Gwyneth
Paltrow looked terrible. She is a very lovely woman, but her dress was a
nightmare! She should have practiced walking with books on her head so
that she would remember to stand up straight. And who decided that
black-rimmed eyes were IT? Bad fashion choice!


Karen

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Subject: [h-cost] The Oscars
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 02:21:31 -0500
Status: RO

They should be paying me to make predictions for Best Costume Designs... and
quit worrying about all that voting. LOL!!!  I'm on a roll.  Three films
that within the first 15 minutes of seeing the films, I told my husband,
there goes the Oscar for Best Costume.  What are those three... Restoration,
Titanic, and Moulin Rouge.  BTW, I also said the same thing about set design
(art direction) for Restoration and Moulin Rouge.

It still breaks my heart that they destroyed all those stunning sets from
Moulin Rouge.

As for the show... Whoppee.... you are so brave!  The feathers were so
cool!!!

My personal picks for best dressed... a toss up between Halle Berry and
Sharon Stone.  Honorable mention... Marisa Tomei, very elegant.

I keep wondering what was under the skirt of Halle's dress to be supporting
the weigh of all that satin.  I just can't believe the chiffon in the bodice
was holding all that weigh.  The applique was beautiful and so nicely
placed.  The shirt was made a beautiful train!

I would die to wear that dress Sharon Stone was wearing.  OH! I loved how
her husband twirled her around on the red carpet and all the fringe swirled
out.  Then John T. twirled her on the stage.  What a dream!

I didn't catch that any of the gowns were vintage.  I did hear a lot of
people state that they had on vintage jewelry.  Babs necklace was stunning.

As for the expensive diamonds....

Who was the lady who wore the diamond shoes and the LARGE diamond necklace.
She said the necklace was worth 27 million and she had 3 guards.  She came
down the red carpet right after Joan Rivers took over the pre-show around
3:00 East Coast time.  She was one of the first actresses down the red
carpet.  The lady said that she was a poor girl growing up in Mexico and she
married and now lives in a castle.  I missed her name.  That necklace was so
beautiful.

Jules swap dresses with Nicole... she could have done the diamonds justice.

Disappointments... HAIR!!!!!!!!!   My little daughter who follows hairstyles
like I follow costumes, just screamed.  Did they all just forget to do their
hair!!  They should be wearing it up with an evening gown.  If that is too
difficult at least style it.

Did Gwnynth P. (sp) and Jennifer Lopez switch gowns????  Enough said.

Nicole... please dear, return my 1978 bridesmaids dresses when you are
finished with it.  Even the color was bad on her.  Jennifer took my
bridesmaids hairstyle.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 02:34:01 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, Margo, you bet me by two seconds...LOL!!!  You must edit or type faster
than me!

The makeup guy's fringe was a hoot!

I thought the same thing about Bab's dress/gown/curtain.

I just really did not like the ladies wearing pastels and ruffles for
evening wear.

You know I forgot to mention another honorable mention for me... Reese
Witherspoon in her Valentino gown.  She looked so classy in it.  AND her
hair looked lovely.

Did you notice we were missing some of the red carpet usuals...  Winona and
Drew????  I always look forward to seeing what they have come up every year.

I was disappointed in Julia Roberts and Renee... I just expected more
pizazz.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 02:36:15 -0500
Status: RO

Lyn,

Labyrinth!!!! That was it!!!!!!  My husband and I kept saying that she
looked familiar!  Gosh, why didn't they name that film when they named all
of her other films.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 02:40:00 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, I know one that dress that was beautiful... I believe it was during one
of the tech awards.  There were three men and one woman who accepted the
award.  The woman was in "A New Look" black satin dress.  Oh, it was
beautiful!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 00:35:28 -0800
Status: RO

Dear List, I just received a mailing from The Wisconsin Historical Society.
They have created a new pattern. It's an 1894 walking suit, based on an extant
item in their costume and textile collection. It's sized up to a 24! The site
is <www.wisconsinhistory.org/patterns                                         
                                           
Shea Young


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Subject: [h-cost] Diamond Lady
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 03:57:24 -0500
Status: RO

I found the actress who wore all the diamond on www.oscar.com .  She is
Laura Elena Harring.

And the lady in the beautiful "New Look" dress is Lisa Blount.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:26:55 +0000
Status: RO

Gjetost means "goat cheese". I didn't know it was made from whey, but that explains why it's so different from the French type of goat's-milk cheese. Personally I detest the Scandinavian variety!


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mooncat@in-tch.com 03/25/02 12:23am >>>
Uh, specifically, it's the whey left after making cheese from goat's
milk.  The cow's milk version is known as "mjetost."  Nummy stuff. 
Takes a *long* time to cook down.
--sue

marilyn traber wrote:
> 
> ISn't gjetost simply whey that is heated gently until it
> condenses? I have made that as a way to use up excess wheyt from
> cheesemaking.
> margali
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:12:29 +0000
Status: RO


Michaela wrote:

>Actually, just to show what a hodge podge of measurements we use here in >NZ.
>I have a recipe that called for 110gms butter, but then goes into cup
>measures for the rest of the ingredients. 

Probably for the same reason that I mentioned - for those of us accustomed to weighing our ingredients, using "cupfuls" of butter is problematic.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1780's Stocking Weaving
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:22:04 +0000
Status: RO

Nottingham was the centre for industrialised lacemaking, but not until the 19th century.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> meliora@webone.com.au 03/23/02 12:40pm >>>
Hi all,

My mum is currently researching some of our ancestors, and found a young
gent who has his occupation in England in 1790 listed as "Stocking Weaver".

Mum did a small amount of investigation and found that this might have
something to do with industrialised lace-making?

Can anyone give any help or pointers as to where we could find further info
about this occupation and process?

Thanks
Melissa.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Underwear show, was Money tree (was footwear)
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:28:25 +0000
Status: RO

There was a fashion parade of underwear at the History in Action event (Kirby Hall, UK) two years ago. I didn't see it, but there are highlights on the video.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk 03/24/02 01:03pm >>>
Hey yes, that is a good idea.
There was a similar show some years back where the hairdressers who makes
historical hairstyles shared their show with a design school.
There was an 18th century lady who got undressed at the stage to her chemise
and a civil war lady two. It was very popular!!!

Bjarne



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 06:31:51 -0500
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Margo Anderson" > The woman who won for Best Supporting actress, I
forget her name, could use
> a sandwich while you're up.  And tell her, if you haven't got anything to
> hold up a strapless dress other than the bones in your chest, consider a
> different cut, please.
Jennifer Connelly, who starred in Labyrinth when she was a lovely young
thing of about fifteenn ( with David Biwie as Jareth---a visual feast!)

The strapless-tho-I-have-no-bust is the newest "in" thing. Anyone see Angie
Harmon's wedding dress, or Gwyneth's pink Oscar gown from a couple of years
ago?

Dianne

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  [h-cost] The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:16:52 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Didn't see any of the coverage myself but....

> The Men's Unfortunate Tailoring Award had many contenders, but I
> think the winner has to be the makeup artist in the fringed Tuxedo.
> and what was with all the men in dark business suits and ties?  I
> know these guys can afford to rent a tux! 

And a tux is an improvement over a suit how?  As far as I'm 
concerned the only modern mens suit (tux included) that has *any* 
hope of looking in *any* way *attractive* is a zoot suit (preferably in 
a bright colour)  The rest just look so *boring* they might as well 
wear jeans and t-shirt... at least the occasional interesting picture 
on a t-shirt would do away with the "stamped out of the "Mr Bland-
and-Boring 2002" mold look.

Teddy


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - gjetost
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:02:25 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Uh, specifically, it's the whey left after making cheese from
> goat's milk.  The cow's milk version is known as "mjetost."  Nummy
> stuff. Takes a *long* time to cook down. 

That's the stuff (the second, not the first) the one I'm thinking of has 
another name (probably the brand mname???) Fjallbrynt or 
something similar.... <does hasty websearch>  yep... here is the 
very stuff.... http://www.fjallbrynt.nu/

Teddy
(now completely out of it again)

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:11:41 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> A few months ago someone mentioned a new pattern line called Fig
> Leaf Patterns.  Their website is finally up and running at:
> http://www.figleafpatterns.com/ 

> Now, I have to ask -- has anyone used these patterns?  Any
> reviews? 

Hi Kendra,

No review from me, I'm afraid, but I couldn't get much from their 
website anyway - the frontpage looked fine but if i opened any ofthe 
other pages for individual patterns or the "contact us" one, all I got 
was screens of this soert of thing....



> <HTML>  
> <HEAD>
>   <META NAME="GENERATOR" CONTENT="Adobe PageMill 3.0 Mac">
>   <TITLE>Untitled Document</TITLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY BACKGROUND="figleafwebjpegimages/litebackgroundtilepattern.jpg">
> 
> <TABLE WIDTH="500" BORDER="0" CELLSPACING="2" CELLPADDING="0">
>   <TR>
>     <TD WIDTH="50%">
>       <P><CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER></P>
> 
>       <P><CENTER><FONT SIZE="+3"><IMG
>       SRC="figleafwebjpegimages/realfigleaflogo.jpg" WIDTH="120"
>       HEIGHT="120" ALIGN="BOTTOM" BORDER="0"
>       NATURALSIZEFLAG="3"></FONT></CENTER></P>
> 
>       <P><CENTER><FONT SIZE="+3">Contact Us</FONT></CENTER></P>
> 
>       <P><CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2">We are interested in hearing from
>       you!</FONT></CENTER></P>


I've e-mailed to let them know (there was an e-mail addy 
embedded in the gobledygook), but it's not currently much good for 
viewing the details of the patterns they offer....<G>

Teddy 


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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 07:55:27 EST
Status: RO

Stepping out of Lurking...

First off, I loved the Fringed Tux.  It was a novelty item and all about his 
personality and I have no doubt that that gentleman could carry it off.

Loved Halle Berry and Sharon Stone.  Also woman in black satin ballerina 
length dress who won for best short film "Accountant".  She had on perfect 
shoes.  I also really liked Sandra Bullocks dress.  Jada looked stunning.  
Kate Winslett looked beautiful as well.  I live in awe of Uma's abundant 
cleavage...if ya got it, flaunt it!


Now, Jennifer Connley looked like a horror, Cameron Diaz looked like she woke 
up in her dress and put a scrunchy in her hair and barely made it to the 
show.  Worst of all was Ms. Paltrow.  YIKES!!!!   Fashion Icon my blankety 
blank blank!!! 

I agree about the hair, sucked all around with few exceptions.

Cheers!
Pasha
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
From: Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:48:34 GMT
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :
> No review from me, I'm afraid, but I couldn't get much from their 
> website anyway - the frontpage looked fine but if i opened any ofthe 
> other pages for individual patterns or the "contact us" one, all I got 
> was ....

I've just tried it, and got slightly better results. Some broken pictures, but not as bad. They've certainly got a problem, but you may get lucky depending on your browser. Worth a go, I'd say.




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 06:15:15 -0700
Status: RO

I didn't see the Oscars, but I've got an "I wonder" as far as the men's
suits go, given that the Oscars are held in the U.S. and all....
There was a big push/general understanding??? when they finally held the
Grammys....many (most?) men chose to wear sober business suits instead
of the flashier tuxes out of respect for the victims of 9-11 (since the
Grammys had been postponed a couple of times as a result of that day). 
Perhaps the idea hung around long enough for the Oscars (although the
women still sound like they were pretty flashy).
Of course, I like men in just about anything <g>....zoot suits, jeans
and tee shirts,.....<gggg>
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> 
> Didn't see any of the coverage myself but....
> 
> > The Men's Unfortunate Tailoring Award had many contenders, but I
> > think the winner has to be the makeup artist in the fringed Tuxedo.
> > and what was with all the men in dark business suits and ties?  I
> > know these guys can afford to rent a tux!
> 
> And a tux is an improvement over a suit how?  As far as I'm
> concerned the only modern mens suit (tux included) that has *any*
> hope of looking in *any* way *attractive* is a zoot suit (preferably in
> a bright colour)  The rest just look so *boring* they might as well
> wear jeans and t-shirt... at least the occasional interesting picture
> on a t-shirt would do away with the "stamped out of the "Mr Bland-
> and-Boring 2002" mold look.
> 
> Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1780's Stocking Weaving
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:15:30 -0500
Status: RO

Prior to that, though, and into the 20th century, it was also a 
hosiery manufacturing area.  Besides the lace museum, there are two 
nearby framework knitting museums in Wigston and Ruddington.  Great 
places to visit - both have rooms full of knitting frames!

      -Carol

>Nottingham was the centre for industrialised lacemaking, but not 
>until the 19th century.
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 16:11:06 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

Friends of mine wil have a marriage in western style.
I would love to make a nice costume but I have no Idea what.
Are there any nice patterns?
I would love to make a early amerikan dress.
But they will be more modern.


Greetings,
        Deredere

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 08:43:56 -0500
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Teddy" <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
at least the occasional interesting picture
> on a t-shirt would do away with the "stamped out of the "Mr Bland-
> and-Boring 2002" mold look.
>
> Teddy
>

Or the T-shirt Stella McCartney wore when her dad was given an award at the
R&R Hall of Fame (can't remember if it was lifetime achievement or
individual induction). Said "About F****** Time" on it.

Whether you agree with the sentiment or not, it was a change from what
everyone else was wearing!

Dianne

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Subject: [h-cost] Oscars
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:36:03 -0600
Status: RO

I liked what Nicole was wearing.  I'm not a real ruffles fan, but I didn't think she 
looked all that bad in it.

I also liked what Julia was wearing.  It just seemed to fit her personality.

I hated the rag that Jennifer was wearing, it was most definetly the worst color for her 
and they had to have glued it to her torso.

Gwyneth looked terrible, She is not known for standing up all that straight to begin with, 
but that dress accentuated it immensely. She needed a stylist bigtime.

Jodi Foster... The entire time she was doing her presentation I felt like reaching into 
the TV and hiking up the top.  The dress was attractive, it just looked like her right 
breast was going to slip out the side the entire time.

And Halle Berry, that dress was fabulous, she looked wonderful, and graceful even when she 
was on stage blubbering.  I read someplace that she has terrific skin tone and color, and 
her makeup is very minimal to begin with.

And I want the pattern for the gold silk velvet robe that Whoopie had on.  Anyone know how 
it was done?
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:44:06 +0100
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Stephen,

You wrote:
  I seem to have lost the site address for Henk's site.  Could either =
Henk
  or anyone who has it please post it.  There is something I have to
  double check.

  Here it is:

  Visit the colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage=20
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

  Henk

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Stephen,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>I seem to have lost the site address for Henk's site.&nbsp; Could =
either=20
  Henk<BR>or anyone who has it please post it.&nbsp; There is something =
I have=20
  to<BR>double check.<BR><BR>Here it is:</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the colourful tScapreel website;<BR>Separate English pages=20
  clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very own domain: <A=20
  href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:48:29 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO

What I loved about the show: Whoope!!! She looked great, even that Nicole
Kidman costume was fitted to Whoope to a T, very nice.

Will Smith's wife, wow what a dress! Lisa Blount was exceptional. Jenifer
Lopez was stunning showing off her signature back side with pride. Marcia
Gay Harden was just wonderful in her gown that looked like a vintage
piece. Renee Zellweger looked classic to me. Reese
Witherspoon was another classic lines beauty.

The guys, well what can I say. I love a good suit and many of them wore
mid thigh length formal coat-tux's. They were stunning and a very nice
touch to go with the theme of the show.

And from the Oscar website itself:
Best Tribute: The whole show, which had its heart--and its art--in the
right place, with tributes to Sidney Poitier, Arthur Hiller, Paul Newman,
the city of New York, the members of the film community who died and all
those who perished in the attacks of September 11.

Last year after everyone got their digs in one of you all posted that we 
need to pull back from this type of horrible put downs. If you have 
anything to say say it well and positive. If not then leave it alone. 

What happened to that discussion?? I thought many of you agreed with what 
had been said and would not post like this again about an event. 
Especially about being thin! Some of you were in shock over the comments 
made about being thin. This issue of Vogue is dedicated to this very 
issue. I remember being thin. And I remember the digs and the curses that 
they hoped that one day I would be fat. Well they got their wish, I am 
fat, and you know what? I am still the same person. There is no difference 
other than appearance so please lay off thin people. It is not because we 
strive to be thin, it just happens and then it goes away sometimes. It is 
called genetics.

Points to consider before you post such high ended negativity about 
others:
1.) Actors and Actresses sometimes have to lose or gain weight for roles. 
Many start living the role before they shoot as well as through out the 
shoot. Some, like Gwyn, keep the role on and may not be able to shake it 
off for a while. They are human. If we have a hard time shaking our 
problems off why should it be any different for them.

2.) And this is my wild quess. EVERYONE was in black, and I mean just 
about everyone, (ok Shrek was not but that is not my point), they made it 
clear through out the night that this show was for those heros we lost in 
New York. Black is worn in morning, out of respect. You do the best you 
can when somber and black are the theme for your event.


-- 
Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
chiara@io.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cowgirl costume question
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For a Western/Cowgirl look you could try using Buckaroo Bobbins patterns.


http://www.buckaroobobbins.com

They specialize in Western/Late 19th Century styles. 

Karen


On Mon, 25 Mar 2002 16:11:06 +0100 Deredere & Owen Iskander
<triade@kabelfoon.nl> writes:
> Hi,
> 
> Friends of mine wil have a marriage in western style.
> I would love to make a nice costume but I have no Idea what.
> Are there any nice patterns?
> I would love to make a early amerikan dress.
> But they will be more modern.
> 
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 16:28:55 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Or the T-shirt Stella McCartney wore when her dad was given an award
> at the R&R Hall of Fame (can't remember if it was lifetime achievement
> or individual induction). Said "About F****** Time" on it.
> 
> Whether you agree with the sentiment or not, it was a change from what
> everyone else was wearing!

Absolutely.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Oscars
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:09:13 -0600
Status: RO





> They should be paying me to make predictions for Best Costume Designs...
and
> quit worrying about all that voting. LOL!!!  I'm on a roll.  Three films
> that within the first 15 minutes of seeing the films, I told my husband,
> there goes the Oscar for Best Costume.  What are those three...
Restoration,
> Titanic, and Moulin Rouge.  BTW, I also said the same thing about set
design
> (art direction) for Restoration and Moulin Rouge.

Same here--at least the last three years: Moulin Rouge, Gladiator(although I
questioned the authenticity, but Greeks and Romans in any era are not my
interest in costume study)and Titanic. Don't know what's all coming out this
year, but I want to see the Cat's Meow next month(if it comes to the
supposed backwaters of Omaha, just to see Kirsten Dunst's costumes as Marion
Davis).
>
> It still breaks my heart that they destroyed all those stunning sets from
> Moulin Rouge.

You think they could have sold them, even in bits and pieces.
>
> As for the show... Whoppee.... you are so brave!  The feathers were so
> cool!!!

And such a comment on what is considered "Oscar wear"
>
> My personal picks for best dressed... a toss up between Halle Berry and
> Sharon Stone.  Honorable mention... Marisa Tomei, very elegant.

Halle Berry wins my vote for the women nominees--I would have liked it
better if she'd kept the embrodiered them going all the way down the skirt
in front and the skirt more greenish(at least on my TV)instead of the
rusted/burgundy solid skirt. Sharon Stone for best presenter(although I
didn't get the hair). Kate Winslet looked lovely in red.

Last year's very done hair got booed by the fashion police, so most went for
the loose semi-ringlet look and are getting booed again. I think the pastels
were a compromise(and what designers are showing for Spring 2002) as black
might be taken for too funeral in the wake of 9/11 and bold colors, like
red, too gaudy. There was also a movement to go more casual and
relaxed--also possibly related to 9/11. Vintage gowns were out this year.

Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Oscars:  Let's Dish!/Chiaras Request
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:15:44 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 3/25/02 9:04:31 AM Mountain Standard Time, chiara@io.com 
writes:


> 
> Last year after everyone got their digs in one of you all posted that we 
> need to pull back from this type of horrible put downs. If you have 
> anything to say say it well and positive. If not then leave it alone. 
> 
> What happened to that discussion?? I thought many of you agreed with what 
> had been said and would not post like this again about an event. 
> Especially about being thin! Some of you were in shock over the comments 
> made about being thin. This issue of Vogue is dedicated to this very 
> issue. I remember being thin. And I remember the digs and the curses that 
> they hoped that one day I would be fat. Well they got their wish, I am 
> fat, and you know what? I am still the same person. There is no difference 
> other than appearance so please lay off thin people. It is not because we 
> strive to be thin, it just happens and then it goes away sometimes. It is 
> called genetics.
> 
> Points to consider before you post such high ended negativity about 
> others:
> 1.) Actors and Actresses sometimes have to lose or gain weight for roles. 
> Many start living the role before they shoot as well as through out the 
> shoot. Some, like Gwyn, keep the role on and may not be able to shake it 
> off for a while. They are human. If we have a hard time shaking our 
> problems off why should it be any different for them.
> 
> 2.) And this is my wild quess. EVERYONE was in black, and I mean just 
> about everyone, (ok Shrek was not but that is not my point), they made it 
> clear through out the night that this show was for those heros we lost in 
> New York. Black is worn in morning, out of respect. You do the best you 
> can when somber and black are the theme for your event.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sincerely,
> Chiara Francesca
> chiara@io.com
> 
Okay,

I can understand someone's sensitivity to harsh words concerning being thin 
or fat or short or tall.  However, we are on a costuming list and discussing 
whether someone's dress is great or is not seems entirely appropriate to me.  
Part of costuming is understanding what looks good or great on someone 
because of the fit.  A persons build is key to carrying off the dress.  If it 
is germane to the conversation a comment regarding someone's build seem 
appropriate to me.  It is difficult enough to get your point across when 
communicating via email.  We are all costumers here (I think), can't we 
please be frank with one another instead of tiptoeing around the fact that so 
and so looked like hell because they were too thin or too fat for their 
particular gown or tux?  I mean, if you can't be honest with your costumer 
you'll look like crap!  Can we relax the sensitivity and have a candid 
conversation?

No Offense intended, just don't police me!

Pasha

--part1_142.babbfd3.29d0b540_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/25/02 9:04:31 AM Mountain Standard Time, chiara@io.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR>
Last year after everyone got their digs in one of you all posted that we <BR>
need to pull back from this type of horrible put downs. If you have <BR>
anything to say say it well and positive. If not then leave it alone. <BR>
<BR>
What happened to that discussion?? I thought many of you agreed with what <BR>
had been said and would not post like this again about an event. <BR>
Especially about being thin! Some of you were in shock over the comments <BR>
made about being thin. This issue of Vogue is dedicated to this very <BR>
issue. I remember being thin. And I remember the digs and the curses that <BR>
they hoped that one day I would be fat. Well they got their wish, I am <BR>
fat, and you know what? I am still the same person. There is no difference <BR>
other than appearance so please lay off thin people. It is not because we <BR>
strive to be thin, it just happens and then it goes away sometimes. It is <BR>
called genetics.<BR>
<BR>
Points to consider before you post such high ended negativity about <BR>
others:<BR>
1.) Actors and Actresses sometimes have to lose or gain weight for roles. <BR>
Many start living the role before they shoot as well as through out the <BR>
shoot. Some, like Gwyn, keep the role on and may not be able to shake it <BR>
off for a while. They are human. If we have a hard time shaking our <BR>
problems off why should it be any different for them.<BR>
<BR>
2.) And this is my wild quess. EVERYONE was in black, and I mean just <BR>
about everyone, (ok Shrek was not but that is not my point), they made it <BR>
clear through out the night that this show was for those heros we lost in <BR>
New York. Black is worn in morning, out of respect. You do the best you <BR>
can when somber and black are the theme for your event.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
-- <BR>
Sincerely,<BR>
Chiara Francesca<BR>
chiara@io.com<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Okay,<BR>
<BR>
I can understand someone's sensitivity to harsh words concerning being thin or fat or short or tall.&nbsp; However, we are on a costuming list and discussing whether someone's dress is great or is not seems entirely appropriate to me.&nbsp; Part of costuming is understanding what looks good or great on someone because of the fit.&nbsp; A persons build is key to carrying off the dress.&nbsp; If it is germane to the conversation a comment regarding someone's build seem appropriate to me.&nbsp; It is difficult enough to get your point across when communicating via email.&nbsp; We are all costumers here (I think), can't we please be frank with one another instead of tiptoeing around the fact that so and so looked like hell because they were too thin or too fat for their particular gown or tux?&nbsp; I mean, if you can't be honest with your costumer you'll look like crap!&nbsp; Can we relax the sensitivity and have a candid conversation?<BR>
<BR>
No Offense intended, just don't police me!<BR>
<BR>
Pasha<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_142.babbfd3.29d0b540_boundary--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:34:39 -0800
Status: RO

It looks like most of the patterns are not yet available, according to the order
form. However, the designer/drafter is the same person as for Heirloom
Impressions. Heirloom Impressions is now defunct, but their patterns may still
be around at Alteryears and some sellers like that.  They published a 1910s
men's vest and a woman's 1890s shoulder cape.

Fran Grimble

Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> A few months ago someone mentioned a new pattern line called Fig Leaf
> Patterns.  Their website is finally up and running at:
> http://www.figleafpatterns.com/
>
> The patterns that they are currently offering are:
>
> 1771 Open Robe
> 1795 Work Dress
> 1799 Long-Sleeved Bib-Front Dress
> 1799 Apron
> 1857 Day Dress
> 1859 Day Dress
> 1889 Four Piece Ensemble
> 1855 Cage Crinoline
> 1860 Dress from Peachtree Mercantile (the one created by the Atlanta History
> Center)
> 1917 Officer's Trench Coat
>
> Now, I have to ask -- has anyone used these patterns?  Any reviews?
>
> - Kendra
>

---------------------------------------------
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Subject: [h-cost] The Oscars
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:41:57 -0600
Status: RO

Jodi Foster... The entire time she was doing her presentation I felt like reaching into 
the TV and hiking up the top.  The dress was attractive, it just looked like her right 
breast was going to slip out the side the entire time.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
Exactly what I wanted to do!  I liked the style but I think it would have worked better on her hiked up a bit.

I liked the style of Jenneifer Connolley's dress but my first thought was, ooooh, do it in sea greens and blues and she could have looked like Venus rising from the sea :).

I missed a lot of the red carpet coverage but looking at the photos available this morning I do kind of wonder about Gwyneth's dress, as in, huh?  Maybe I missed an interview or something that said she was going for a new look????

I also missed who was going to be wearing 'the' diamond dress so while watching the show I thought it was the women who won for the best documentary (about the violinist).  It looked like she had a net sheath over a net bustier and the sheath seemed to have a lot of large diamond pendants sewn to it.  Which also made me wonder, how did she sit :)?

I loved Halle's dress!  For me, that is class!!!  And Whoopee was great!  I wish we had seen more of her.

Oh yeah, and did anyone see Peter Jackson's feet?  I had heard he always went everywhere barefoot and was intending to do so at the Oscars.  Anyone see any toes???

Catherine

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:04:37 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Can anyone recommend a pattern source (from a major company would be great
if I could get it from a local fabric store) for a Chinese-style long coat
-- the kind that usually has straight sleeves and frogs down the front?
I'm not looking for something particularly historically authentic for this
-- just something I can use as a starting point to adapt for some modern
evening wear. I have a hunk of Chinese silk with motifs stamped on it that
I want to use for something "Oriental" looking, and I think a long jacket
with some loose black silk pants under it would work, or maybe with a
skirt.

(Not that I have much excuse to wear this sort of stuff, but I'm going to
the ballet next month, and my date will probably be dressed rather
Bohemian, so the conventional dressy-dress will look odd.)

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mandarin jacket? (not quite on-topic)
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:32:03 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 25 Mar 2002, Robin Netherton wrote:

> Can anyone recommend a pattern source (from a major company would be
> great if I could get it from a local fabric store) for a Chinese-style
> long coat -- the kind that usually has straight sleeves and frogs down
> the front?

OK, I just found one ... Folkwear's Chinese Jacket. At $20, it's a bit
steep for a whim. If anyone has this and is willing to sell or loan it,
I'd be indebeted. Thanks.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:55:57 -0500
Status: RO


Chiara, I think you are overreacting. The comments about being thin were all
very mild, and I don't think anyone (this year) was saying anything more
about the particular thin actresses in question than that they did not
choose flattering dresses.

I think we can all agree that all styles do not look equally good on all
body types.

I only saw the first half of the show, but I sure loved Halle Berry's gown.
How it could bear so much and yet still be incredibly elegant is really
amazing.

And I, too, watched Jody Foster in horrified fascination to see if any part
of her fell out of that dress. I told my husband that I hoped she was glued
in, but she didn't seem to be. She certainly had a lot of poise to be able
to stand and talk while she must have been worried!

Cameron Diaz's gown was the ugliest one I saw, but I only saw the top of
Gwyneth Paltrow's, so perhaps I would revise my opinion if the rest of it
looked just as bad.

So who wore the one with all the diamonds? Was she a presenter or just
someone attending? I didn't see the diamond necklace mentioned earlier, so I
guess I'll have to wait until "People" magazine comes out with the Oscar
issue.

I thought Nicole Kidman's was an elegant style, but I really didn't like the
color. She always wears colors that make her look sickly -- rather (IMHO)
like a walking corpse. An elegant walking corpse, but a corpse nonetheless.

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
In-Reply-To: <20020325.012329.-176615.2.Seamstrix@juno.com> "from seamstrix@juno.com
 at Mar 25, 2002 01:23:29 am"
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:06:27 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

We call those the "Lollipop women" because their heads look SO BIG on top
of their bodies.  Reese witherspoon, jennifer connelly, and rene zellweger
all looked like that.  Uma Thurman, however, was the picture of health and
radiance, all swollen with pregnancy! 

.heather.

> I missed most of the ceremonies and all of the pre-show- :-( But I
> thought that Jennifer Connolly (Best Supporting Actress) looked
> positively emaciated! She used to have a very lush '40's style figure
> (check her out in "Rocketeer") and it looks like she has just dropped a
> bunch of weight and it doesn't suit her. And the color of that gown just
> washed her out completely, she has very strong natural color and needs a
> dress with some color to it to look her best. Too bad as she is really a
> very beautiful woman and coudl look so much better. I thought that Halle
> Berry's gown was fab!!! I can't say enough- it was a daring look that she
> pulled off prefectly and that made her look totally beautiful. Gwyneth
> Paltrow looked terrible. She is a very lovely woman, but her dress was a
> nightmare! She should have practiced walking with books on her head so
> that she would remember to stand up straight. And who decided that
> black-rimmed eyes were IT? Bad fashion choice!
> 
> 
> Karen
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 25 15:31:41 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
In-Reply-To: <78F41CE7EFF@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk> "from Teddy at Mar 25,
 2002 12:11:41 pm"
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:12:26 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Yeah they need some help.  THe second level pages will work in
Internet Explorer, but not in Netscape, since it demands good code.
The front page, however, needs table fixing, since it displays
horribly.

Page Mill is evil, someone needs to tell them this ;)

.heather.


> 
> > A few months ago someone mentioned a new pattern line called Fig
> > Leaf Patterns.  Their website is finally up and running at:
> > http://www.figleafpatterns.com/ 
> 
> > Now, I have to ask -- has anyone used these patterns?  Any
> > reviews? 
> 
> Hi Kendra,
> 
> No review from me, I'm afraid, but I couldn't get much from their 
> website anyway - the frontpage looked fine but if i opened any ofthe 
> other pages for individual patterns or the "contact us" one, all I got 
> was screens of this soert of thing....
> 
> 
> 
> > <HTML>  
> > <HEAD>
> >   <META NAME="GENERATOR" CONTENT="Adobe PageMill 3.0 Mac">
> >   <TITLE>Untitled Document</TITLE>
> > </HEAD>
> > <BODY BACKGROUND="figleafwebjpegimages/litebackgroundtilepattern.jpg">
> > 
> > <TABLE WIDTH="500" BORDER="0" CELLSPACING="2" CELLPADDING="0">
> >   <TR>
> >     <TD WIDTH="50%">
> >       <P><CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER></P>
> > 
> >       <P><CENTER><FONT SIZE="+3"><IMG
> >       SRC="figleafwebjpegimages/realfigleaflogo.jpg" WIDTH="120"
> >       HEIGHT="120" ALIGN="BOTTOM" BORDER="0"
> >       NATURALSIZEFLAG="3"></FONT></CENTER></P>
> > 
> >       <P><CENTER><FONT SIZE="+3">Contact Us</FONT></CENTER></P>
> > 
> >       <P><CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2">We are interested in hearing from
> >       you!</FONT></CENTER></P>
> 
> 
> I've e-mailed to let them know (there was an e-mail addy 
> embedded in the gobledygook), but it's not currently much good for 
> viewing the details of the patterns they offer....<G>
> 
> Teddy 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 25 15:32:04 2002
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:01:06 -0800
Status: RO

If it's just for a wedding, as in, strict authenticity is not required, 
look in the pattern catalogs in the costume section.  Your bride and groom 
will probably not be dressed any more authentic than that.

Friends of mine wil have a marriage in western style.
>I would love to make a nice costume but I have no Idea what.
>Are there any nice patterns?
>I would love to make a early amerikan dress.
>But they will be more modern.


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 25 15:40:27 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mandarin jacket? (not quite on-topic)
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:15:00 -0800
Status: RO

Try Folkwear patterns (go online) or Max Tilke's book of ethnic garments ( 
http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/ ), which shows the seam lines 
of everything in it, and from which you can deduce the cut.

>Can anyone recommend a pattern source (from a major company would be great
>if I could get it from a local fabric store) for a Chinese-style long coat
>-- the kind that usually has straight sleeves and frogs down the front?
>I'm not looking for something particularly historically authentic for this
>-- just something I can use as a starting point to adapt for some modern
>evening wear. I have a hunk of Chinese silk with motifs stamped on it that
>I want to use for something "Oriental" looking, and I think a long jacket
>with some loose black silk pants under it would work, or maybe with a
>skirt.
>
>(Not that I have much excuse to wear this sort of stuff, but I'm going to
>the ballet next month, and my date will probably be dressed rather
>Bohemian, so the conventional dressy-dress will look odd.)
>
>--Robin
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Kayta
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 14:25:37 -0500
Status: RO


I -know- I've seen one before, but can't find it quickly online.  Perhaps 
Simplicity 6055 could be easily adapted?
  Parsla

>Can anyone recommend a pattern source (from a major company would be great
>if I could get it from a local fabric store) for a Chinese-style long coat
>-- the kind that usually has straight sleeves and frogs down the front?
>I'm not looking for something particularly historically authentic for this
>-- just something I can use as a starting point to adapt for some modern
>evening wear. I have a hunk of Chinese silk with motifs stamped on it that
>I want to use for something "Oriental" looking, and I think a long jacket
>with some loose black silk pants under it would work, or maybe with a
>skirt.
>
>(Not that I have much excuse to wear this sort of stuff, but I'm going to
>the ballet next month, and my date will probably be dressed rather
>Bohemian, so the conventional dressy-dress will look odd.)
>
>--Robin
>
>
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:40:58 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Okay, it took me a while, but I finally found pics of
Jules Asner wearing the diamond gown.  Here is the
link

http://www.wireimage.com/GalleryListing.asp?navtyp=gls====8847

Orlaith

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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 14:49:11 -0400
Status: RO




... or Max Tilke's book of ethnic garments
http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/

I can't BELIEVE this book is on line.  I feel I should download the whole
thing QUICK before it goes away. Who says the Internet ain't great!

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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 08:20:09 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:31 PM -0800 3/22/02, Margo Anderson wrote:

>I'm inclined to believe that the Market Woman's look, as exemplified by
>Drea's website and book, is far closer to reality.   The good news is that
>Drea and I will be collaborating on a Market Woman's Wardrobe pattern,
>hopefully within the next year.

Sounds like a match made in heaven!  And I agree with your (snipped 
comments) -- stick to your guns on the historicity standards.  There 
are plenty of people putting out "renaissance wench" type patterns 
and not enough aiming at your level of quality.

Heather
-- 
*****
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hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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       Sure as heck doesn't look like it is worth five million bucks to me. 

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sure as heck doesn't look like it is worth five million bucks to me. 
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 16:37:39 -0600
Status: RO

At various Costume Con's there has been one or more panels on period
underwear.  One was called Knickers & Knockers.

Genie:)

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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 16:49:51 -0600
Status: RO

I think I want Lawrence Fishbourne's tux jacket, looked like a brocade ar
maybe a velvet pattern.

Genie

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From: Joe Cool <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Millinery Wire
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 15:49:52 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Saragrace knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Is there something special about millinary wire? 

The good kind is both covered, as Bjarne mentions, and
galvanized. It doesnt rust. It also comes bare.  When covered,
the covering comes in black or white; the wire itself is in many
gauges. (The most I've seen is 1 dozen gauges each blk/
white/bare)  The various gauges vary in flexibility, rigidity.
Rigid is nice, as it stays where placed. Flexible is nice as it
can be moved to place, wrapped or tied off, and it breaks less
quickly if bent repeatedly.

> If I want to use wire
> in a hat, as long as it is stainless steel and is of the right
> gage is there any reason to buy "millinery wire"?

Provided all your other needs are met, go for it.


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Diamond Lady
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:03:48 -0500
Status: RO

OK, I chose to go to bed last night, so I just saw the gowns....

I can only imagine Nicole thought she was a Barbie doll?
Personally, I'm kind of glad I didn't stay up for it.  I don't usually like
many of the outfits. ;-p  (Now, let me loose at, say, an SCA war........):-D
Moira

> I found the actress who wore all the diamond on www.oscar.com .  She is
> Laura Elena Harring.
>
> And the lady in the beautiful "New Look" dress is Lisa Blount.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:10:17 -0500
Status: RO

Actually, If men were to free themselves, I'd love it if they'd try some
Italian Renn outfits. I know it perks up my day.;-D
Moira

 Didn't see any of the coverage myself but....
>
> > The Men's Unfortunate Tailoring Award had many contenders, but I
> > think the winner has to be the makeup artist in the fringed Tuxedo.
> > and what was with all the men in dark business suits and ties?  I
> > know these guys can afford to rent a tux!
>
> And a tux is an improvement over a suit how?

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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 19:19:12 -0800
Status: RO


>   I
> > > know these guys can afford to rent a tux!
> >
> > And a tux is an improvement over a suit how?

It's darker, and doesn't show up on camera as well???


Kayta
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 21:35:35 -0600
Status: RO

Ah, Gwyneth's pink dress.  All the reviewers thought it was *so* lovely. 
 I thought it could have been nice if:
1.  The bodice didn't hang down so far.
2.  The bodice fit correctly, rather than looking 2 sizes too big, and 
gapping unattractively.

Yuck.  She looked like a little girl dressing up in Mommy's clothes.

Speaking of women who have lost quite a bit of weight, did you all 
notice how skinny Kate Winslet is now?  People seemed so pleased, like 
she'd gone from some type of uncontrolled hog to a sleek, polished 
gazelle.  I thought she was almost unrecognizable.  She's gone from 
looking like a ripe peach to more resembling a small glaced apricot.

*phbbbt*

Karen

Dianne and greg Stucki wrote:

>
>The strapless-tho-I-have-no-bust is the newest "in" thing. Anyone see Angie
>Harmon's wedding dress, or Gwyneth's pink Oscar gown from a couple of years
>ago?
>


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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 19:52:46 -0800
Status: RO

By "Indian", I mean "People who come from India", just to clear up any
confusion... :)

I think I've been seriously infected lately by a spate of Hindi movies that
my sister has been subjecting me to, and now I desperately want to dress in
sari (not entirely sure how to pluralize that).  What is more, I'd like to
understand the history of the sari in more detail.  Can anyone point me the
right direction (ie. some place other than the numerous websites that I've
already looked at that believe that usefull information is contained in the
words "many, many years ago")?

I appreciate the help, as always... :)

Sarah Lorraine

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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 23:22:43 -0600
Status: RO

OK, here's my 2 cents worth:
My favorite dress - Halle Berry's - Wonderful!!
My 2nd favorite - Everything Whoopie wore.
My least favorite - Gwyneth Paltrow (big surprise!)
My 2nd least favorite - Julia Roberts - to me it looked like she was 
hanging from a clothesline by two clips at the shoulder points - just too 
uncomfortable - looking.
My favorite male outfit - Samuel L. Jackson (again) in the long coat tux 
with a very subtle pattern in the fabric - really cool!
My 2nd favorite male - the fringed tux - just because it was so unusual.

BTW, does anyone recognize what type of feathers were on Whoopie's opening 
costume?  The only ones I know of that come that long are Lady Amherst 
Pheasant tails, but those didn't really look like pheasant tails.  I know, 
details,  details.

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] gjetost (OT)
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:35:21 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:26 AM +0000 3/25/02, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>Gjetost means "goat cheese". I didn't know it was made from whey, 
>but that explains why it's so different from the French type of 
>goat's-milk cheese. Personally I detest the Scandinavian variety!

In the Scandinavian study group I was in my senior year in college, 
most of us hated the stuff at first taste. One problem is that most 
of us looked at it and -- consciously or unconsciously -- thought of 
Fels Naphtha laundry soap, which it greatly resembles at first 
glance. This does _not_ set one's taste buds up for a pleasant 
experience! <g>

Some brave souls continued to experiment with it, and eventually all 
of us decided it wasn't nearly so peculiar if you just don't think of 
it as "cheese." It really isn't -- in fact, being made of whey, it's 
really a sort of "anti-cheese." But although it's not nearly as 
sweet, if you think "caramel" or "brown sugar" you will be much more 
favorably disposed toward it.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The history of Indian costume?
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 18:53:44 +1200
Status: RO

> I think I've been seriously infected lately by a spate of Hindi movies
that
> my sister has been subjecting me to, and now I desperately want to dress
in
> sari (not entirely sure how to pluralize that).  What is more, I'd like to
> understand the history of the sari in more detail.  Can anyone point me
the
> right direction (ie. some place other than the numerous websites that I've
> already looked at that believe that usefull information is contained in
the
> words "many, many years ago")?

The style of drapery as we are most familiar is actually very modern and
from what I recall actually as an anti caste type thing. Women of all social
levels wear it, and so it's not so limiting as in it doesn't say anything
about what region or class you come from.

I have collected many many sarees and went on a search a few years ago to
see what styles I could use:) I found a great link through costumes.org and
I'll see if it is still around. I also found some books in my Uni library
with some info as to what was worn when. Going of course almost purely by
illustrations from various eras.
http://www.costumes.org/pages/asiancostlinks.htm
The page I got the following links from
http://www.shakti.clara.net/sari/index.html
this is the link I found most useful, shows styles for different regions,
and I think how long the styles have been in use
http://udel.edu/~orzada/india.htm
simple explanation of terms of traditional dress
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/2geographicsearch/India/india.html
photos of mens and womens costume now.
http://www.kerala.com/fashion/hwsari.htm
how to wrap in the now common style

As for my own collection.. my favs are for the most part woven with metal or
tinsel threads, or embroidered with beads or sequins... or my very simple
aqua shading to mid blue with a green-gold woven border... oooh, I have a
piccie of that scanned actually
http://recital.tripod.com/cv/images2.htm it's called sari profile and the
top right hand image, to save you downloading all the photos of me;) Doesn't
show much, just the pretty colour:)

michaela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] the diamond gown pictures
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 02:53:37 -0500
Status: RO

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Lalah,

I heard Jules make a correction on the price of the gown.  It is worth $2.5.
She said the gown had a total of 5,000 carats on it.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: LalahTT@aol.com
  To: h-costume@indra.com
  Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 4:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] the diamond gown pictures


       Sure as heck doesn't look like it is worth five million bucks to me.

  Lalah
  Never Give up, Never Surrender,
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
  Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
  http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4912.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Lalah,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I heard Jules make a correction on the price of the gown.&nbsp; It =
is worth=20
$2.5.&nbsp; She said the gown had a total of 5,000&nbsp;carats on =
it.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DLalahTT@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:LalahTT@aol.com">LalahTT@aol.com</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, March 25, 2002 =
4:33=20
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] the =
diamond gown=20
  pictures</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT=20
  size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sure as heck doesn't look like =
it is=20
  worth five million bucks to me. <BR><BR>Lalah <BR>Never Give up, Never =

  Surrender, <BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - =
- - - -=20
  <BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at =
<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html">ht=
tp://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html</A>=20
  <BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Subject:  Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 00:20:44 -0800
Status: RO

Yes, I noticed this too.  What happened is that they forgot to put ".htm" or 
".html" on the end of the filenames, so they load as raw text, and so raw 
HTML when you click on them. However, if you're really really persistant, 
you can do this...

Click (or right click) on the link, and download the file, then go and 
change the name of the file (either while you're saving it, or once it's on 
the desktop) by adding ".html" or ".htm" on the end.  Then open the file 
that you've just downloaded and changed.  The pictures won't show up without 
a little more tinkering, but you can get a basic idea of the layout of the 
page.

-Laura

>Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:11:41 +0000 (GMT)
>From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Organization: Middlesex University
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
> > A few months ago someone mentioned a new pattern line called Fig
> > Leaf Patterns.  Their website is finally up and running at:
> > http://www.figleafpatterns.com/
>
> > Now, I have to ask -- has anyone used these patterns?  Any
> > reviews?
>
>Hi Kendra,
>
>No review from me, I'm afraid, but I couldn't get much from their
>website anyway - the frontpage looked fine but if i opened any ofthe
>other pages for individual patterns or the "contact us" one, all I got
>was screens of this soert of thing....
> > < snipped HTML here >
>I've e-mailed to let them know (there was an e-mail addy
>embedded in the gobledygook), but it's not currently much good for
>viewing the details of the patterns they offer....<G>
>
>Teddy

_________________________________________________________________
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 10:07:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > > And a tux is an improvement over a suit how?
> 
> It's darker, and doesn't show up on camera as well???

OK.  Point awarded to Kayta for that one

Teddy


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 26 06:53:32 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] corset/stays workshops
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 05:36:31 -0500
Status: RO

    For any of you looking for a weekend getaway into sewing, we're offering
a Georgian (18th c.) stays workshop May 18 & 19, and November 2 & 3, and a
Regency corset workshop June 22 & 23 and November 16 & 17. September 21 & 22
is our Elizabethan Blackwork weekend workshop. All to be held at the old
stone house here in the pretty, historic village of Neustadt, Ontario. For
all the US listers, the exchange rate makes this a very affordable weekend
trip and workshop.

    Course the question always is: where is Neustadt? Just south of Hanover,
east of the infamous Walkerton which now has the cleanest water in all of
Ontario, about three hours northwest of the great and only Toronto.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 26 06:53:40 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Mandarin jacket? (not quite on-topic)
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 05:37:14 -0500
Status: RO

    You might want to check out the Folkwear Chinese Jacket:
http://www.5rivers.org/estore Once into our secure, online catalogue click
on Historical Sewing Patterns, then Folkwear, then Chinese Jacket. While it
doesn't have a floor length version, it does have a long version which could
be easily adapted to floor length.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
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Their home page is off by a "Tab" (typing term), and I *wish* I could cli=
ck on the picture of the pattern to come up with a larger, for more detai=
l, page.  Like as with a thumbnail.  =20

 The way it's set up now is confusing.  At first I thought I was just rea=
ding a person's research, and then as I "dug" I could figure out they wer=
e selling patterns, even though the URL does say patterns...  =20

Gia/Giacinta
just my 02 worth (not adjusted for inflation)

>Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:11:41 +0000 (GMT)
>From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Organization: Middlesex University
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
> > A few months ago someone mentioned a new pattern line called Fig
> > Leaf Patterns.  Their website is finally up and running at:
> > http://www.figleafpatterns.com/
>
> > Now, I have to ask -- has anyone used these patterns?  Any
> > reviews?
>
>Hi Kendra,
>
>No review from me, I'm afraid, but I couldn't get much from their
>website anyway - the frontpage looked fine but if i opened any ofthe
>other pages for individual patterns or the "contact us" one, all I got
>was screens of this soert of thing....
> > < snipped HTML here >
>I've e-mailed to let them know (there was an e-mail addy
>embedded in the gobledygook), but it's not currently much good for
>viewing the details of the patterns they offer....<G>
>
>Teddy

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <=
DIV>Their home page is off by a "Tab" (typing term), and I *wish* I could=
 click on the picture of the pattern to come up with a larger, for more&n=
bsp;detail, page.&nbsp; Like as with a thumbnail.&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp=
;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;The way it's set up now is confusing.&nbsp; At first I=
 thought I was just reading a person's research, and then as I "dug" I co=
uld figure out they were selling patterns, even though the URL does say p=
atterns...&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DIV>ju=
st my 02 worth (not adjusted for inflation)</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PA=
DDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000=
00 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <P>&nbsp;</P> <P>&gt;Date: Mon, 25 Mar =
2002 12:11:41 +0000 (GMT)<BR>&gt;From: Teddy &lt;teddy1@mdx.ac.uk&gt;<BR>=
&gt;Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fig Leaf Patterns website up<BR>&gt;To: h-costu=
me@indra.com<BR>&gt;Organization: Middlesex University<BR>&gt;Reply-To: h=
-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; A few months ago som=
eone mentioned a new pattern line called Fig<BR>&gt; &gt; Leaf Patterns.&=
nbsp; Their website is finally up and running at:<BR>&gt; &gt; http://www=
.figleafpatterns.com/<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; Now, I have to ask -- has anyo=
ne used these patterns?&nbsp; Any<BR>&gt; &gt; reviews?<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;Hi=
 Kendra,<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;No review from me, I'm afraid, but I couldn't get=
 much from their<BR>&gt;website anyway - the frontpage looked fine but if=
 i opened any ofthe<BR>&gt;other pages for individual patterns or the "co=
ntact us" one, all I got<BR>&gt;was screens of this soert of thing....<BR=
>&gt; &gt; &lt; snipped HTML here &gt;<BR>&gt;I've e-mailed to let them k=
now (there was an e-mail addy<BR>&gt;embedded in the gobledygook), but it=
's not currently much good for<BR>&gt;viewing the details of the patterns=
 they offer....&lt;G&gt;<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;Teddy<BR><BR>____________________=
_____________________________________________<BR>MSN Photos is the easies=
t way to share and print your photos:<BR>http://photos.msn.com/support/wo=
rldwide.aspx<BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-=
costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com=
/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:15:58 +1030
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>&gt;Catherine wrote:</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;<BR>&gt;Oh yeah, and did anyone see Peter Jackson's feet?&nbsp; I had heard he always went<BR>&gt;everywhere barefoot and was intending to do so at the Oscars.&nbsp; Anyone see any<BR>&gt;toes???<BR><BR><BR>Yeah! I bet he has hairy feet!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca Anderson</DIV>
<DIV>aka</DIV>
<DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM301201/12'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 12:12:49 EST
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Penny, I wouldn't spend 2.5 mil on it if I had it either.  I can think of 
better ways to spend money than on something as unattractive and useless as 
that gown.  But thanks, I guess that is better than 5 million.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Penny, I wouldn't spend 2.5 mil on it if I had it either. &nbsp;I can think of better ways to spend money than on something as unattractive and useless as that gown. &nbsp;But thanks, I guess that is better than 5 million.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 26 16:46:44 2002
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 at "Mar 25, 2002 09:18:32 pm"
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CC: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  the diamond gown pictures
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 21:34:33 +0100 (CET)
Status: RO

Orlaith (Nelson Beth <grdygirl@yahoo.com>) posted for us:
> Okay, it took me a while, but I finally found pics of
> Jules Asner wearing the diamond gown.  Here is the
> link
> 
> http://www.wireimage.com/GalleryListing.asp?navtyp=gls====8847

Thanks, but all I really manage to envy her for... is the weather.
Wow: blue sky, palm trees, and sunshine. Not here. The weather insists on being
grey and just above zero Celsius (32 F).

Barbara Maren in Berlin
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 15:13:26 -0600
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how come I keep getting the list (digest form) with some emails that are in standard text 
then right behind it a copy of it in HTML?  This is getting annoying, and taking up 
bandwidth. Anyone know how to turn it off?
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 26 17:25:27 2002
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 14:14:03 -0700
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On Tue, Mar 26, 2002 at 03:13:26PM -0600, Linda J. Thompson wrote:
> how come I keep getting the list (digest form) with some emails that are in 
> standard text then right behind it a copy of it in HTML?  This is getting 
> annoying, and taking up bandwidth. Anyone know how to turn it off?

It's not you, it's the author of the message.  If everyone would turn
off HTML in their mailers, it would all be beautiful.

						...eliz

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 26 17:30:16 2002
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From: "Carol E. Newby" <ladybug@neei.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] list email html code???
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 13:23:12 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Directions on how to turn off html in various email programs is available
at:

http://www.uark.edu/campus/compserv/internet/email/turnoffhtml.html

Carol

On Tue, 26 Mar 2002, Elizabeth Lear wrote:

> On Tue, Mar 26, 2002 at 03:13:26PM -0600, Linda J. Thompson wrote:
> > how come I keep getting the list (digest form) with some emails that are in
> > standard text then right behind it a copy of it in HTML?  This is getting
> > annoying, and taking up bandwidth. Anyone know how to turn it off?
>
> It's not you, it's the author of the message.  If everyone would turn
> off HTML in their mailers, it would all be beautiful.

~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~
Carol E. Newby             Elspeth the Semstress of Dunkeld, OP
ladybug@neei.com                   http://www.neei.com/~ladybug

    "Unseen and soon forgotten, the journey... is the art"
                                    - anonymous


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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 14:42:08 -0800
Status: RO


> how come I keep getting the list (digest form) with some emails that are
in standard text
> then right behind it a copy of it in HTML?  This is getting annoying, and
taking up
> bandwidth. Anyone know how to turn it off?

The person sending the message has to be considerate enough to send their
messages in plain text only.  What is happening is people are sending
messages in both plain text and html.  Makes for cute email to people who
get the message by itself but is hell on people with text readers and on the
digest.

Dan

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 26 20:27:16 2002
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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] HCostume fabric sell or swap...
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 19:22:45 -0500
Status: RO

Come and joing the H-costume fabric sell or swap.  It is
group set up for list members to sell or trade unwanted
fabric or costumes to other list members.  The group doesn't
appear to have been used for awhile so why not start your
spring cleaning....

Cheers,
Danielle

	
Your invitation to join:
"HCostume fabric sell or swap..."

TO JOIN, CLICK HERE:
http://www.communityzero.com/hcostume/index.cfm?key=656-QDB

After clicking on the above link you will see the community's 
welcome page.  Click the 'JOIN THIS COMMUNITY' link found on 
the center of the welcome page.

Your invitation key is: 656-QDB

----------------------------------------------------------------

If you cannot click on the link, cut and paste the Web address 
into the "Address" area of your Web browser.  Note that the 
invitation key is NOT your user name.  You must select your own
user name and password when creating a new account.

This is a private and interactive website for the group. 
Registration is free and your privacy will be respected. You 
will not receive e-mail SPAM after registration.

If you experience problems using the above link, please ensure
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 20:23:54 -0500
Status: RO

Hiya,

I'm hoping that someone can help point me in the right direction.

My Dad, knowing that I am a costuming type, has enlisted my aid in 
finding an image of a pair of floppy "Three Musketeers" style boots.   
Unfortunately, that's way outsite the time period I focus in, so I don't 
have anything in my own collection.  And my attempts at searching for 
images on the web have so far turned up nothing usable.  (All the 
portraits I've found either aren't full length, or the person isn't 
wearing boots.)

So, can anyone point me to any images on the web that might show this 
style of boot?


Jessica Clark
SCA: Irene leNoir
irene@loudzen.com
www.loudzen.com/users/jessica

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The history of Indian costume?
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 10:15:22 -0800
Status: RO

At 7:52 PM -0800 3/25/02, Sarah Goodman wrote:
>By "Indian", I mean "People who come from India", just to clear up any
>confusion... :)
>
>I think I've been seriously infected lately by a spate of Hindi movies that
>my sister has been subjecting me to, and now I desperately want to dress in
>sari (not entirely sure how to pluralize that).  What is more, I'd like to
>understand the history of the sari in more detail.  Can anyone point me the
>right direction (ie. some place other than the numerous websites that I've
>already looked at that believe that usefull information is contained in the
>words "many, many years ago")?

I'm going to be unhelpfully tantalizing.  I know that in the last 
several years I've seen two gorgeous coffee-table-size books, one on 
the history of Indian clothing, and one on various regional styles in 
draped clothing in modern India.  (There's a third I remember that I 
think would be less useful, that primarily focuses on photographs of 
upper-class Indian families, and so is much more limited both in 
time-frame and in styles.)

Heather
-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The history of Indian costume?
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 21:07:36 -0500
Status: RO

>> words "many, many years ago")?
> 
> I'm going to be unhelpfully tantalizing.  I know that in the last
> several years I've seen two gorgeous coffee-table-size books, one on
> the history of Indian clothing, and one on various regional styles in
> draped clothing in modern India.  (There's a third I remember that I
> think would be less useful, that primarily focuses on photographs of
> upper-class Indian families, and so is much more limited both in
> time-frame and in styles.)
> 
> Heather
Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping-Chantal Boulanger
It covers regional styles or sari draping as well as dhotis for men and
women. there is some "period" information, but most of her research is based
on contemporary sources.
The book itself is a large soft cover w/a spiral binding which makes it alot
easier to study the pictures and drape at the same time.
Laurie

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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:22:54 -0500
Status: RO



Okay, I'll bite: Who is this Jules woman (isn't Jules a man's name?) and why
was she picked to wear a $5 million gown? Wouldn't anyone else wear it?

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Floppy Boots
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In a message dated 3/26/2002 8:39:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
irene@loudzen.com writes:


> So, can anyone point me to any images on the web that might show this 
> style of boot?
> 

If you rent the Richard Lester version of "3 Musketeers" or "4 Musketeers"  
you'll see Oliver Reed running around and fighting in a pair. 

Or you could buy a 5th of Capt. Morgan spiced rum.....


Or go here...

 <A HREF="http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/index1.html">Web Gallery of Art - Frame Version</A> 


and do a search for 1601-1650 Dutch Portraits and Genre paintings. I came up 
with

Jacob Duck, Guardsroom with Soldiers Playing Cards 

in the Genre category, and many a Portrait by Frans Hals [who obviously 
painted every living person in the Netherlands at the time]. Here are two 
with the boots you want in them:

Portrait of Willem van Heythuysen

Family Group in Landscape, ca. 1648


A search of other schools in the same period [like the French School] will no 
doubt yield other examples.


Have fun!



--part1_155.b42f902.29d29b95_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 3/26/2002 8:39:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, irene@loudzen.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">So, can anyone point me to any images on the web that might show this 
<BR>style of boot?
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>If you rent the Richard Lester version of "3 Musketeers" or "4 Musketeers" &nbsp;you'll see Oliver Reed running around and fighting in a pair. 
<BR>
<BR>Or you could buy a 5th of Capt. Morgan spiced rum.....
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Or go here...
<BR>
<BR> <A HREF="http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/index1.html">Web Gallery of Art - Frame Version</A> 
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>and do a search for 1601-1650 Dutch Portraits and Genre paintings. I came up with
<BR>
<BR>Jacob Duck, <I>Guardsroom with Soldiers Playing Cards 
<BR>
<BR></I>in the Genre category, and many a Portrait by Frans Hals [who obviously painted every living person in the Netherlands at the time]. Here are two with the boots you want in them:
<BR>
<BR><I>Portrait of Willem van Heythuysen
<BR>
<BR>Family Group in Landscape, ca. 1648
<BR></I>
<BR>
<BR>A search of other schools in the same period [like the French School] will no doubt yield other examples.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Have fun!
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 19:52:41 -0800
Status: RO


>Okay, I'll bite: Who is this Jules woman (isn't Jules a man's name?) and why
>was she picked to wear a $5 million gown? Wouldn't anyone else wear it?

The whole idea of sewing real diamonds onto a dress has to be about 
publicity.  I mean, aren't they going to auction the thing off for charity 
now that the Oscar thing is over?  My guess is they wanted someone - anyone 
- 'visible' to wear it, again for publicity, so the charity would benefit 
afterwards.  Not that they didn't think they'd benefit from it beforehand...

Kayta
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From: Lynn Downward <lynnie1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Floppy Boots
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 19:53:04 -0800
Status: RO

How about a picture of 'Puss in Boots" from the fairy tale?
LynnD
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Irene leNoir" <irene@loudzen.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 5:23 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Seeking Floppy Boots


> Hiya,
> 
> I'm hoping that someone can help point me in the right direction.
> 
> My Dad, knowing that I am a costuming type, has enlisted my aid in 
> finding an image of a pair of floppy "Three Musketeers" style boots.   
> Unfortunately, that's way outsite the time period I focus in, so I don't 
> have anything in my own collection.  And my attempts at searching for 
> images on the web have so far turned up nothing usable.  (All the 
> portraits I've found either aren't full length, or the person isn't 
> wearing boots.)
> 
> So, can anyone point me to any images on the web that might show this 
> style of boot?
> 
> 
> Jessica Clark
> SCA: Irene leNoir
> irene@loudzen.com
> www.loudzen.com/users/jessica
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The history of Indian costume?
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:13:15 +1200
Status: RO


> Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping-Chantal Boulanger
> It covers regional styles or sari draping as well as dhotis for men and
> women. there is some "period" information, but most of her research is
based
> on contemporary sources.
> The book itself is a large soft cover w/a spiral binding which makes it
alot
> easier to study the pictures and drape at the same time.


The web page I gave earlier was about this book/author.
http://www.shakti.clara.net/sari/index.html
Obviously not as in depth as the book, but several pages and photos. I did
find a book in the library called 100 Sarees or something like it. Oh,
that's probably another thing, in search engines use "saree OR sari". You'll
get more hits that way.

michaela



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: diamond gown
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:25:08 +1200
Status: RO

> The whole idea of sewing real diamonds onto a dress has to be about
> publicity.  I mean, aren't they going to auction the thing off for charity
> now that the Oscar thing is over?  My guess is they wanted someone -
anyone
> - 'visible' to wear it, again for publicity, so the charity would benefit
> afterwards.  Not that they didn't think they'd benefit from it
beforehand...

To be honest, those of us in different countries did not get to see it at
all. If they had've persuaded Nicole to wear it, we would have seen it many
times as she was in the front row and the camera was on her a lot of the
time.
Not a bad dress.. I don't paricularly like the ruffle/fall thing.. but it
really didn't take advantage of the very nature of diamonds. A neutral
background is all well and good but maybe a more peach colour, then it would
have looked like dewdrops on skin.
Or a black background and the diamonds would have looked like stars.. or
white and you'd have the icey fire of the diamonds come through...

eh... just not the style I would have used if I had all those diamonds to
play with.

michaela

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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 23:49:35 -0800
Status: RO


>To be honest, those of us in different countries did not get to see it at
>all.

Neither did anyone in this country who had anything better to do.


Kayta
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:05:16 +0000
Status: RO

Jessica Clark wrote:

>So, can anyone point me to any images on the web that might show this 
>style of boot?

http://www.costumes.org/pages/timelinepages/1630to1665a.htm 

has a photo of an original floppy boot about 2/3 of the way down; also the next page (link at the bottom) has more links. (The assertion that Royalists wore square toed boots and Parliamentarians pointed ones is highly suspect IMHO)





Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:00:38 -0500
Status: RO



Well, I'm in this country and I didn't see it. I didn't watch anything but
the ceremony. And I've never heard of Jules Whatever Her Name Is. If the
point is publicity, then either they didn't get much, or I'm not in the
targeted audience (likely enough). It just seems strange to me that they
couldn't get an actual movie star to wear a dress with "only" $2.5 million
worth of diamonds on it. I would have thought someone would jump at the
opportunity, unless the charity it's going to be auctioned off for is weird.

Gail Finke

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: diamond gown
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:33:21 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 26 Mar 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> >To be honest, those of us in different countries did not get to see it at
> >all.
> 
> Neither did anyone in this country who had anything better to do.

I watched the whole ceremony and never saw a sign of it, though I was
hoping to after the discussion on this list. After the ceremony, I
switched to E! for the interviews, and there was Jules Asner (this is the
first time I've seen her -- what an airhead!), but she was wearing some
orangey-yellow thing. Evidently she was required to change out of the
diamond dress. So much for publicity.

--Robin


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] (H-COST): Early tudor question...
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:11:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hello listfolks, here's a question/challenge for the Tudor experts on 
the list.

Can you produce a *short* (say one paragraph, between 4 and 6 
sentences) description of the "typical" style of dress for a middle-
class English-woman of around 1502?

I was asked about this last night and, as I'm no expert, found I was 
guestimating from vague memories of images that seemed around 
the right period and place.... so wondered how others on the list 
would do

Teddy
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Textile: The Journal of Cloth & Culture
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:31:26 -0500
Status: RO


This was sent to another list I'm on.  Has anyone here heard of this?  

Linda


Apologies for cross-posting: 
Call for Manuscripts 
Berg Publishers are pleased to announce a new journal: 
Textile: The Journal of Cloth & Culture 
Ed. Pennina Barnett and Janis Jefferies, both of Goldsmiths College, 
University of London and Mary Schoeser, University of California at
Davis 
Cloth accesses an astonishingly broad range of human experiences. The
raw 
material from which things are made, it has various associations:
sensual, 
somatic, decorative, functional and ritual.  Yet although textiles are
part 
of our everyday lives, their very familiarity and accessibility belie a 
complex set of histories, and invite a range of speculations about their

personal, social and cultural meanings. This ability to move within and 
reference multiple sites gives textiles their potency. 
This exciting new journal brings together research in textiles in an 
innovative and distinctive academic forum, and will be of interest to
all 
those who share a multifaceted view of textiles within an expanded
field. 
Representing a dynamic and wide-ranging set of critical practices, it 
provides a platform for points of departure between art and craft;
gender 
and identity; cloth, body and architecture; labour and technology; 
techno-design and practice  all situated within the broader contexts of 
material and visual culture. 
Textile invites submissions informed by technology and visual media,
history 
and cultural theory; anthropology; philosophy; political economy and 
psychoanalysis.  It will draw on a range of artistic practices, studio
and 
digital work, manufacture and object production. 
We would like to invite submissions for the inaugural volume, which will

consist of three issues, to be published in 2003.  Should you have a
topic 
you would like us to consider, please send an abstract  of 300-500 words
to 
one of the following editors: 
Pennina Barnett or Janis Jefferies            
Department of the Visual Arts                
Goldsmiths College                    
University of London                    
New Cross                        
London SE14 6NW                    
UK                            
Email: p.barnett@gold.ac.uk                 
j.jefferies@gold.ac.uk    
Fax: +44 (0) 20 7919 7673 
Mary Schoeser 
Department of Design 
College of Agricultural & 
Environmental Sciences 
University of California at Davis 
Davis, CA 
USA 
mschoeser@bak.rr.com 
Style guidelines are available by emailing kearle@berg1.demon.co.uk or
from 
the Berg website www.bergpublishers.com. 
Advisory Board: 
Ingrid Bachmann, Concordia University, Canada 
Elizabeth Barber, Occidental College, USA 
Dilys Blum, Philadelphia Museum of Art, USA 
Grace Cochrane, Powerhouse Museum, Australia 
Susan Conway, Rhode Island School of Art & Design, USA 
Ian Hunter, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK 
Sarat Maharaj, Goldsmiths College, University of London, UK 
John Picton, School of Oriental and African Studies, University of
London, 
UK 
Lotus Stack, Minneapolis Institute of the Arts, USA 
Nick Stanley, Birmingham Institute of Art & Design 
Anne Wilson, The Art Institute of Chicago, USA 
Diana Wood Conroy, University of Wollongong, Australia 
Book Reviews Editor 
Victoria Mitchell, Norwich School of Art & Design, UK 
UK/RoW Exhibitions Reviews Editor 
Jennifer Harris, The Whitworth Art Gallery, UK 
US Exhibitions Reviews Editor 
TBA 

********************************************************************** 
This email and any files transmitted with it are intended solely 
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. 
If you have received this email in error please notify the sender. 
Royal Institute of British Architects 
66 Portland Place, London, England W1B 1AD 
bal@inst.riba.org 
********************************************************************** 

 


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:53:38 +0000
Status: RO

Karen Heim <axejudge@accessus.net> wrote
>Ah, Gwyneth's pink dress.  All the reviewers thought it was *so* 
>lovely. I thought it could have been nice if:
>1.  The bodice didn't hang down so far.
>2.  The bodice fit correctly, rather than looking 2 sizes too big, and 
>gapping unattractively.
>
>Yuck.  She looked like a little girl dressing up in Mommy's clothes.
>
>Speaking of women who have lost quite a bit of weight, did you all 
>notice how skinny Kate Winslet is now?  People seemed so pleased, like 
>she'd gone from some type of uncontrolled hog to a sleek, polished 
>gazelle.  I thought she was almost unrecognizable.  She's gone from 
>looking like a ripe peach to more resembling a small glaced apricot.
>
>*phbbbt*
>
>Karen
>
>Dianne and greg Stucki wrote:
>
>>
>>The strapless-tho-I-have-no-bust is the newest "in" thing. Anyone see Angie
>>Harmon's wedding dress, or Gwyneth's pink Oscar gown from a couple of years
>>ago?
>>
The problem seems to me that women these days wear strapless dresses too 
low - some people look like it's just hanging off their nipples!  Even 
if you don't have much bust, it still has to sit on top of it.

Another modern "don't know how to wear it" was Jennifer Lopez' bottom. 
Who would choose to accentuate their bum like that?  Even if you have 
the prettiest bum in the world.  Too many wedding dresses now have a bow 
at the back down there, hanging underneath and drawing attention instead 
of perching on top and flattering.

And before I stop moaning - why would anyone with fabulous pale skin 
like Nicole ever wear pale colours?  I am still breathless with 
adoration from seeing Moulin Rouge last week (for the first time - I'm 
just slow).  Wear black, dear girl!
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Floppy Boots
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:29:53 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Museum Replicas (http://www.museumreplicas.com/home.htm) sells high-topped
boots, but they're not terribly accurate, so far as I can tell.  The
picture of their "Renaissance boot" isn't loading.  The "Musketeer Boot"
doesn't look too bad, from what I can see, but I haven't seen them up
close so can't comment definitively.

-- Mara


On Tue, 26 Mar 2002, Irene leNoir wrote:

> Hiya,
>
> I'm hoping that someone can help point me in the right direction.
>
> My Dad, knowing that I am a costuming type, has enlisted my aid in
> finding an image of a pair of floppy "Three Musketeers" style boots.
> Unfortunately, that's way outsite the time period I focus in, so I don't
> have anything in my own collection.  And my attempts at searching for
> images on the web have so far turned up nothing usable.  (All the
> portraits I've found either aren't full length, or the person isn't
> wearing boots.)
>
> So, can anyone point me to any images on the web that might show this
> style of boot?
>
>
> Jessica Clark
> SCA: Irene leNoir
> irene@loudzen.com
> www.loudzen.com/users/jessica
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (H-COST): Early tudor question...
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:36:27 +0000
Status: RO

You've chosen (or had forced upon you) a really tough one there, Teddy! 
Is this anything to do with the celebrations for the Treaty of Perpetual 
Peace, by any chance?

I've always had a real job trying to find good sources for anything 
between about 1495 and 1515.  It's very transitional and hard to define, 
and certainly doesn't get much publicity.  The following is on the basis 
of 3 or 4 church brasses:

A close-fitting gown with soft lines, probably cut without a waist seam 
and worn with a hanging girdle.  The skirt is flared and hangs 
naturally.  There is little sign of skirt support or stiff corsetry. 
Sleeves are full length, tight, with a deep, conical fur-lined cuff 
turned back.  Necklines are high and of varied styles, some having a 
small pointed collar, others square or rounded, but always above the top 
of the breasts.  The headdress is usually an early variant of the 
English hood, with a pointed structure covered by a softly hanging cloth 
reaching between shoulder and elbow length.

When reading that, you have to keep in mind that Margaret Tudor's 
wedding portrait (on the occasion of the Treaty of Perpetual Peace in 
1502)
shows her in a totally stiff and formal "two triangles" style with a 
French hood, very similar to Anne Boleyn 30 years later.  I've never 
fathomed whether it's upper class best clothes, or Frenchified for the 
Scottish court, or if in fact it's a later portrait - but she does look 
13, poor thing.

Jean

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
>Hello listfolks, here's a question/challenge for the Tudor experts on
>the list.
>
>Can you produce a *short* (say one paragraph, between 4 and 6
>sentences) description of the "typical" style of dress for a middle-
>class English-woman of around 1502?
>
>I was asked about this last night and, as I'm no expert, found I was
>guestimating from vague memories of images that seemed around
>the right period and place.... so wondered how others on the list
>would do
>
>Teddy
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (H-COST): Early tudor question...
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:36:27 +0000
Status: RO

You've chosen (or had forced upon you) a really tough one there, Teddy! 
Is this anything to do with the celebrations for the Treaty of Perpetual 
Peace, by any chance?

I've always had a real job trying to find good sources for anything 
between about 1495 and 1515.  It's very transitional and hard to define, 
and certainly doesn't get much publicity.  The following is on the basis 
of 3 or 4 church brasses:

A close-fitting gown with soft lines, probably cut without a waist seam 
and worn with a hanging girdle.  The skirt is flared and hangs 
naturally.  There is little sign of skirt support or stiff corsetry. 
Sleeves are full length, tight, with a deep, conical fur-lined cuff 
turned back.  Necklines are high and of varied styles, some having a 
small pointed collar, others square or rounded, but always above the top 
of the breasts.  The headdress is usually an early variant of the 
English hood, with a pointed structure covered by a softly hanging cloth 
reaching between shoulder and elbow length.

When reading that, you have to keep in mind that Margaret Tudor's 
wedding portrait (on the occasion of the Treaty of Perpetual Peace in 
1502)
shows her in a totally stiff and formal "two triangles" style with a 
French hood, very similar to Anne Boleyn 30 years later.  I've never 
fathomed whether it's upper class best clothes, or Frenchified for the 
Scottish court, or if in fact it's a later portrait - but she does look 
13, poor thing.

Jean

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
>Hello listfolks, here's a question/challenge for the Tudor experts on
>the list.
>
>Can you produce a *short* (say one paragraph, between 4 and 6
>sentences) description of the "typical" style of dress for a middle-
>class English-woman of around 1502?
>
>I was asked about this last night and, as I'm no expert, found I was
>guestimating from vague memories of images that seemed around
>the right period and place.... so wondered how others on the list
>would do
>
>Teddy
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <48.8ad76b9.29cf6ec6@aol.com> <3.0.6.32.20020324220937.0080ab70@pop.directcon.net> <001901c1d3f0$a8a32340$9e614e40@yourczpl0pp1h9> <3C9FEC87.6030001@accessus.net> <9yEt57ByvPo8IwEW@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:41:07 -0600
Status: RO

According to Kate, it is the pressure to look a certain way in order to work
in her chosen professon. I read that for the movie Iris, she was not
required to be so thin. The role demanded  little or no makeup as well. And
this was a British film with a typically British budget.  As we all know,
Hollywood is a different story. She also wanted to get back to her
pre-pregnancy weight, anyway, but from what she looked like at the Oscars,
must have lost some more to get a role.

As far as ill-fitting Oscar dresses go, I think it is you get dress free if
you fit the sample size the designer provides, thus the further pressure to
be the sample size or smaller. I think Halle Berry had her dress custom-made
or is the perfect designer sample size everywhere.

Frankly, I'm all for bringing back the 1870's or 1880's bustle
sometimes--the question being: Does my butt look big enough?
Cindy Abel


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From: Joe Cool <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Whither Folly Hill
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:49:26 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


I'm looking for Susanna E of Folly Hill.  If madame is on-list
would she please favor me with a reply. 

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (H-COST): Early tudor question...
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 08:23:19 -0800
Status: RO



Jean Waddie wrote:

> You've chosen (or had forced upon you) a really tough one there, Teddy!
> Is this anything to do with the celebrations for the Treaty of Perpetual
> Peace, by any chance?
>
> I've always had a real job trying to find good sources for anything
> between about 1495 and 1515.  It's very transitional and hard to define,
> and certainly doesn't get much publicity.  The following is on the basis
> of 3 or 4 church brasses:
>

Check out also early woodcuts and manuscript sources. I have an illustrated
edition of Chaucer that seems to have lots of images from this time period
for some reason (sadly I haven't found it since we moved, but I'm sure I've
posted
details here before).

>
> A close-fitting gown with soft lines, probably cut without a waist seam
> and worn with a hanging girdle.  The skirt is flared and hangs
> naturally.  There is little sign of skirt support or stiff corsetry.
> Sleeves are full length, tight, with a deep, conical fur-lined cuff
> turned back.  Necklines are high and of varied styles, some having a
> small pointed collar, others square or rounded, but always above the top
> of the breasts.  The headdress is usually an early variant of the
> English hood, with a pointed structure covered by a softly hanging cloth
> reaching between shoulder and elbow length.
>

I would add to, or alter that to say that necklines are generally square or
v-shaped
and the v-shaped ones seem to be associated with a strange diagonal front
closure.
There is some evidence of waist seams, and some of 'mixed' seam  - no waist
seam
at front, but one at back (this is how I made my 1500 gown), because some
have
cartridge/rolled pleats at the small of the back like later Tudor gowns. CF
closure
seems general.

Noble women of the time had sleeves that widened below the elbow, and a long

train that was often turned up and pinned to the waist at the back, but as
Jean has
noted, close sleeves and modest skirts were more common for the middle
class.


>
> When reading that, you have to keep in mind that Margaret Tudor's
> wedding portrait (on the occasion of the Treaty of Perpetual Peace in
> 1502)
> shows her in a totally stiff and formal "two triangles" style with a
> French hood, very similar to Anne Boleyn 30 years later.  I've never
> fathomed whether it's upper class best clothes, or Frenchified for the
> Scottish court, or if in fact it's a later portrait - but she does look
> 13, poor thing.
>
> Jean
>
> Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
> >Hello listfolks, here's a question/challenge for the Tudor experts on
> >the list.
> >
> >Can you produce a *short* (say one paragraph, between 4 and 6
> >sentences) description of the "typical" style of dress for a middle-
> >class English-woman of around 1502?
> >
> >I was asked about this last night and, as I'm no expert, found I was
> >guestimating from vague memories of images that seemed around
> >the right period and place.... so wondered how others on the list
> >would do
> >
> >Teddy
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> --
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:41:25 -0000
Status: RO

Cynthia wrote:

> According to Kate, it is the pressure to look a certain way in order
to work
> in her chosen professon.

I think that this was so with all of the actresses on display; Julia
Roberts' dress was a magnificant refutation of her chronological age.
Personal trainers across the globe will have been nailed to the floor
the morning after with cries of "you told me no-one can tone under
their arms!"

And, of course, so much of it has to do with the personal taste of the
viewer; I was thrilled to see that Nicole Kidman had eschewed the
harshness of black for a perfectly judged Chanel in tones of a much
more flattering shade and Jean didn't like it at all!

best wishes
Stevie
also known to enquire hopefully
"does this make me look like I've got a bum?"

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In a message dated 3/27/2002 3:31:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lindo@Radix.Net writes:


> Museum Replicas (http://www.museumreplicas.com/home.htm) sells high-topped
> boots, but they're not terribly accurate, so far as I can tell.  The
> picture of their "Renaissance boot" isn't loading.  The "Musketeer Boot"
> doesn't look too bad, from what I can see, but I haven't seen them up
> close so can't comment definitively.
> 

I'd be wary of anything from a company that has "Bram Stoker's Dracula" in an 
"Our Favorite Movies" category! Bleck!!!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 3/27/2002 3:31:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, lindo@Radix.Net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Museum Replicas (http://www.museumreplicas.com/home.htm) sells high-topped
<BR>boots, but they're not terribly accurate, so far as I can tell. &nbsp;The
<BR>picture of their "Renaissance boot" isn't loading. &nbsp;The "Musketeer Boot"
<BR>doesn't look too bad, from what I can see, but I haven't seen them up
<BR>close so can't comment definitively.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I'd be wary of anything from a company that has "Bram Stoker's Dracula" in an "Our Favorite Movies" category! Bleck!!!</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] (H-COST): Early tudor question...
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:05:06 -0600
Status: RO

During the reign of Henry VII, a middle class developed from the merchants.  As far as I 
have found, women from the middle class dressed in the prevailing fashion of the "good 
gentle's" of the time.  Women commonly wore an undergown (camise,petticoat,chemise) a 
kirtle (overgown) with full length sleeves that were somewhat fitted.  Necklines were a 
variety of shapes, (V, Square, curved). Gabled headresses.  And they frequently wore 
girdles usually of leather adorned in metal.



Linda T
www.seams-to-be.com

 >Hello listfolks, here's a question/challenge for the Tudor experts on
 >the list.

 >Can you produce a *short* (say one paragraph, between 4 and 6
 >sentences) description of the "typical" style of dress for a middle-
 >class English-woman of around 1502?

 >I was asked about this last night and, as I'm no expert, found I was
 >guestimating from vague memories of images that seemed around
 >the right period and place.... so wondered how others on the list
 >would do

 >Teddy




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Floppy Boots
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:37:35 -0500
Status: RO

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  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com=20

  In a message dated 3/27/2002 3:31:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, =
lindo@Radix.Net writes:=20



    Museum Replicas (http://www.museumreplicas.com/home.htm) sells =
high-topped=20
    boots, but they're not terribly accurate, so far as I can tell.  The =

    picture of their "Renaissance boot" isn't loading.  The "Musketeer =
Boot"=20
    doesn't look too bad, from what I can see, but I haven't seen them =
up=20
    close so can't comment definitively.=20



  I'd be wary of anything from a company that has "Bram Stoker's =
Dracula" in an "Our Favorite Movies" category! Bleck!!!=20

  My favorite quote from their website (unfortunately, now removed) was =
"We did a lot of research into Norse and Viking clothing, and so we made =
this tunic.  We saw it in a movie we liked."

  Museum Replicas' knives and stuff are...ok, I guess, but their clothes =
are just junk.

  Jeanne

------=_NextPart_000_00AC_01C1D5B6.152CB460
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
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style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DAlbertCat@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com">AlbertCat@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV><FONT =
face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT=20
  size=3D3>In a message dated 3/27/2002 3:31:14 PM Eastern Standard =
Time, <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:lindo@Radix.Net">lindo@Radix.Net</A> writes: =
<BR><BR></FONT><FONT=20
  lang=3D0 face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
  TYPE=3D"CITE">Museum Replicas (<A=20
    =
href=3D"http://www.museumreplicas.com/home.htm">http://www.museumreplicas=
.com/home.htm</A>)=20
    sells high-topped <BR>boots, but they're not terribly accurate, so =
far as I=20
    can tell. &nbsp;The <BR>picture of their "Renaissance boot" isn't =
loading.=20
    &nbsp;The "Musketeer Boot" <BR>doesn't look too bad, from what I can =
see,=20
    but I haven't seen them up <BR>close so can't comment definitively.=20
    <BR></FONT><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D3=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV><BR><BR>I'd be wary of anything from a company that has "Bram =
Stoker's=20
  Dracula" in an "Our Favorite Movies" category! Bleck!!!</FONT> </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>My favorite quote from their website =
(unfortunately, now=20
  removed) was "We did a lot of research into Norse and Viking clothing, =
and so=20
  we made this tunic.&nbsp; We saw it in a movie we liked."</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Museum Replicas' knives and stuff are...ok, I =
guess, but=20
  their clothes are just junk.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT =
size=3D2>Jeanne</FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (H-COST): Early tudor question...
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:06:53 -0600
Status: RO

Of easily found sources, try the Dover reprint of Herbert Norris' book on
Tudor costume. It has the best introductory coverage on early Tudor
dress(Henry VII-Henry VIII -to 1525)that I've seen. If anyone has better
sources, let us know, as I'm thinking about delving more into this period of
dress for my off-again on-again research on Anne Boleyn
Cindy Abel

Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
2500 California Plaza
Omaha NE 68178-0210
Phone: 402. 280-5144
Fax:     402.280-5134
----- Original Message -----
From: "Claire Clarke" <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (H-COST): Early tudor question...


>
>
> Jean Waddie wrote:
>
> > You've chosen (or had forced upon you) a really tough one there, Teddy!
> > Is this anything to do with the celebrations for the Treaty of Perpetual
> > Peace, by any chance?
> >
> > I've always had a real job trying to find good sources for anything
> > between about 1495 and 1515.  It's very transitional and hard to define,
> > and certainly doesn't get much publicity.  The following is on the basis
> > of 3 or 4 church brasses:
> >
>
> Check out also early woodcuts and manuscript sources. I have an
illustrated
> edition of Chaucer that seems to have lots of images from this time period
> for some reason (sadly I haven't found it since we moved, but I'm sure
I've
> posted
> details here before).
>
> >
> > A close-fitting gown with soft lines, probably cut without a waist seam
> > and worn with a hanging girdle.  The skirt is flared and hangs
> > naturally.  There is little sign of skirt support or stiff corsetry.
> > Sleeves are full length, tight, with a deep, conical fur-lined cuff
> > turned back.  Necklines are high and of varied styles, some having a
> > small pointed collar, others square or rounded, but always above the top
> > of the breasts.  The headdress is usually an early variant of the
> > English hood, with a pointed structure covered by a softly hanging cloth
> > reaching between shoulder and elbow length.
> >
>
> I would add to, or alter that to say that necklines are generally square
or
> v-shaped
> and the v-shaped ones seem to be associated with a strange diagonal front
> closure.
> There is some evidence of waist seams, and some of 'mixed' seam  - no
waist
> seam
> at front, but one at back (this is how I made my 1500 gown), because some
> have
> cartridge/rolled pleats at the small of the back like later Tudor gowns.
CF
> closure
> seems general.
>
> Noble women of the time had sleeves that widened below the elbow, and a
long
>
> train that was often turned up and pinned to the waist at the back, but as
> Jean has
> noted, close sleeves and modest skirts were more common for the middle
> class.
>
>
> >
> > When reading that, you have to keep in mind that Margaret Tudor's
> > wedding portrait (on the occasion of the Treaty of Perpetual Peace in
> > 1502)
> > shows her in a totally stiff and formal "two triangles" style with a
> > French hood, very similar to Anne Boleyn 30 years later.  I've never
> > fathomed whether it's upper class best clothes, or Frenchified for the
> > Scottish court, or if in fact it's a later portrait - but she does look
> > 13, poor thing.
> >
> > Jean
> >
> > Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
> > >Hello listfolks, here's a question/challenge for the Tudor experts on
> > >the list.
> > >
> > >Can you produce a *short* (say one paragraph, between 4 and 6
> > >sentences) description of the "typical" style of dress for a middle-
> > >class English-woman of around 1502?
> > >
> > >I was asked about this last night and, as I'm no expert, found I was
> > >guestimating from vague memories of images that seemed around
> > >the right period and place.... so wondered how others on the list
> > >would do
> > >
> > >Teddy
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >h-costume mailing list
> > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > --
> > Jean Waddie
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:37:51 -0600
Status: RO

Okay,
    I've tried at least_four_different user names and it keeps telling me
they're already in use.  What gives?

Genie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 12:51:00 +1200
Status: RO

> Another modern "don't know how to wear it" was Jennifer Lopez' bottom.
> Who would choose to accentuate their bum like that?  Even if you have
> the prettiest bum in the world.

I never noticed her bum, but if she wants to show it who's to stop her? Some
people like their bottoms and don't want to hide it. Like a  long neck, or
an ample/absent bosom shouldn't be something to be ashamed of and hidden
away.

And just a hint to everyone, please either reply to the top of a post, or
use judicious editing. Sometimes I have to scroll through a sreen of text to
find the new comments.

michaela


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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:33:10 -0800
Status: RO


>but if she wants to show it who's to stop her? Some
>people like their bottoms and don't want to hide it. Like a  long neck, or
>an ample/absent bosom shouldn't be something to be ashamed of and hidden
>away.

While she is within her rights to show any part of her anatomy she wants 
to, within legal limits, there are some harpies who won't like the shape of 
it, or who will complain anyway.  Some say 'What a dish!', and some say 
'Let's dish.'


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: [h-cost] STOP!  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:49:25 -0600
Status: RO

I agree with Kayta, people 'without' will complain at a drop of the hat.

This list is not about how you hate someone's body, it is about historical
costuming. I respectfully request that we go back to historical discussions.

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Ansteorra, Steppes, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤
----- Original Message ----- >
> While she is within her rights to show any part of her anatomy she wants
> to, within legal limits, there are some harpies who won't like the shape
of
> it, or who will complain anyway.  Some say 'What a dish!', and some say
> 'Let's dish.'
>
>
> Kayta


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  The Oscars:  Let's Dish!
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:54:50 -0500
Status: RO

Cindy wrote,

>As far as ill-fitting Oscar dresses go, I think it is you get dress 
>free if you fit the sample size the designer provides, thus the 
>further pressure to be the sample size or smaller. I think Halle 
>Berry had her dress custom-made or is the perfect designer sample 
>size everywhere.

      Are sample sizes smaller these days?  Back in the 1970s, 
showroom samples were an 8, and most actresses tend to be 2 and 4. 
Also, for a designer, it seems that exposure at the Oscars would be a 
big deal.  Seems you'd want the dress you designed to look great, 
especially on a presenter or nominee.  What's the point of offering a 
dress for free if it's going to look like it doesn't fit?

      -Carol
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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HCostume fabric sell or swap...
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 01:00:07 -0600
Status: RO

Unfortunately, that just means that they are in use.  I have no control 
over that part.  Sorry.  There are currently 120 members of HCostume swap & 
sell.  Maybe try something a little off the wall?

Cheers,
Danielle

At 06:37 PM 3/27/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Okay,
>     I've tried at least_four_different user names and it keeps telling me
>they're already in use.  What gives?
>
>Genie

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  [h-cost]  Moulin Rouge. (WAS: The Oscars:  Let's Dish!)
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:30:20 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> And before I stop moaning - why would anyone with fabulous pale
> skin like Nicole ever wear pale colours?  I am still breathless
> with adoration from seeing Moulin Rouge last week (for the first
> time - I'm just slow).  Wear black, dear girl! -- Jean Waddie 

I too only just got around to watching it and I think my first instinct 
not to see it at all was right....  The staging was great, the dance 
routines were good but the story was dire, the subject was 
depressing and they absolutely *murdered* some good songs.... 
overall, it was a waste of an evenings viewing time.

Teddy
(as you can tell, not impressed)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Floppy Boots
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:35:29 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Museum Replicas (http://www.museumreplicas.com/home.htm) sells
> high- topped boots, but they're not terribly accurate, so far as I
> can tell. The picture of their "Renaissance boot" isn't loading. 
> The "Musketeer Boot" doesn't look too bad, from what I can see, but
> I haven't seen them up close so can't comment definitively. 

Judging by the way they look in the picture, they don't flare out 
enough at the top to look like proper "bucket-tops" when turned 
down and back up on themselves.

Teddy
(who had a lovely pair of leather-lined, buf-coloured bucket-tops 
with built-up heels made for him by Plantagenate Shoes and 
*loves* them)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Moulin Rouge.
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 04:37:02 -0500
Status: RO

<<<tapping my foot>>>>>>  Teddy....... you missed my pre-show review of the
film back in May.  Your mission... go to the archives and find it.  This
movie is meant to be funny and not to be taken seriously.  Think of it in
the tone of Blazin' Saddles or Rocky Horror.  Geeze... I thought you of all
people would find the twisted humor in the film.  Do I need to come to
England and watch the film with you?

The more you watch this film, the funnier it is. <<<throwing a piece of
leftover toast from the Rocky Horror film at Teddy>>>>>

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (H-COST): Early tudor question...
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:41:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hello Jean, 

> You've chosen (or had forced upon you) a really tough one there,
> Teddy! Is this anything to do with the celebrations for the Treaty of
> Perpetual Peace, by any chance?

Nope, just a friend who needs to get something together for a 
(possibly one off) gig as a costumed guide at a castle and the date 
of 1502 has been sepcified.... *and*  I misunderstood  - not middle 
class at all - Lady in waiting... poot.
 
> I've always had a real job trying to find good sources for anything
> between about 1495 and 1515.  It's very transitional and hard to
> define, and certainly doesn't get much publicity.  The following is on
> the basis of 3 or 4 church brasses:
> 
> A close-fitting gown with soft lines, probably cut without a waist
> seam and worn with a hanging girdle.  The skirt is flared and hangs
> naturally. There is little sign of skirt support or stiff corsetry.
> Sleeves are full length, tight, with a deep, conical fur-lined cuff
> turned back.  Necklines are high and of varied styles, some having a
> small pointed collar, others square or rounded, but always above the
> top of the breasts.  The headdress is usually an early variant of the
> English hood, with a pointed structure covered by a softly hanging
> cloth reaching between shoulder and elbow length.

Pretty much what I came up with, except I specified  high-square 
neckline 

> When reading that, you have to keep in mind that Margaret Tudor's
> wedding portrait (on the occasion of the Treaty of Perpetual Peace in
> 1502) shows her in a totally stiff and formal "two triangles" style
> with a French hood, very similar to Anne Boleyn 30 years later.  I've
> never fathomed whether it's upper class best clothes, or Frenchified
> for the Scottish court, or if in fact it's a later portrait - but she
> does look 13, poor thing.

There' was a lot of discussion on the list a few yearas aback about 
that portrait possibly being painted later because the clothing style 
appeared to be so much later, so I pretty much left that one out of 
the running.

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #829 - 11 msgs
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> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Floppy Boots

>   My favorite quote from their website (unfortunately, now removed)
>   was =
> "We did a lot of research into Norse and Viking clothing, and so we
> made = this tunic.  We saw it in a movie we liked."

This is from their site....

"We know a lot about what the Vikings wore. There's been a lot of 
research about both male and female Viking clothing, and a few 
examples are even still in existence. So let's start out by saying that 
the design of this tunic is basically accurate. Frankly, we saw this 
in a movie and liked it a lot."  

>   Museum Replicas' knives and stuff are...ok, I guess, but their
>   clothes are just junk.

That's a bit strong.  They have loads of stuff in their clothing 
catalogue that I'd be perfectly happy to wear as ordingary street-
wear (if someonw ould buy it for me....<G>) or to SF/fantasy 
conventions and live-role-play events, and a few items that *might* 
pass muster for historical events.

It's nice "fancy-dress"/costume party stuff.  The problem is the 
name "museum replicas" that implies a higher degree of accuracy 
than the stuff their offering exhibits, and in their claims (direct or 
implied by the wording) to accuracy of style to the periods they 
represent their clothing as being from.

Teddy
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Our New Baby
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 05:30:03 -0500
Status: RO

Okay we have been working on getting this website built for a while.  It
feels like we have a new baby... its name...

A Brush with History: Vintage Hairstyles
http://www.costumegallery.com/Hairstyles/Longhair/Children/menu.htm
This is a series that will show vintage hairstyles in photographs.  The
first
section (our baby) is about Little Girls with Long Hair dating between
1874-1914.  Each photo has a detailed description of their costume and
hairstyle. During my two year search for these photos, the time frame
narrowed down as when girls wore their hair long.  We have also done this
type of research for women and have found the trend to have run the same
time frame.  Our next addition will be the ladies site.  Our team did all
the analysis on these photos.  I hope you have fun playing with our new
baby.

Now I have a big favor to ask you all... as we introduce these vintage
photos with
people with long hair, please let me know if you find my images on other
people's websites.  Photos of women and children with long hair is very hot
topic on the web.  I paid a lot of money for these photos, especially the
ladies photos, more money than I have for anything else on the Gallery.  We
have put some of our best measures to protect the images.  But I realize it
is not 100%.  Some of the
best ways we have of protecting the images is by our visitors telling me
someone has stolen them.   So if you do see any of them on someone else's
website, please send me an email with the URL.  I will handle the matter
from there.  Thank you in advance for keeping an eye open for me.

Just to give you an example, last week, we caught a website charging people
to visit
parts of our History of Hairstyle articles and images.  Lets just say, they
are no longer in business. There are all sorts of thieves on the internet.
And they don't think a thing of earning money off of our hard work.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Moulin Rouge. (WAS: The Oscars:  Let's Dish!)
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In a message dated 3/28/2002 4:31:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:


> overall, it was a waste of an evenings viewing time.

Amen, brother! "Like a Virgin" was hysterical but everything else was just 
dreadful. 

Costume-wise it was fun. That white dress based on a sari Nicole wears near 
the end was too too beautiful! [And she looked great in it pale or not] Still 
flamboyant costumes are not always the best costumes. Can you say "Gosford 
Park"? Delicious!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 3/28/2002 4:31:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">overall, it was a waste of an evenings viewing time.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Amen, brother! "Like a Virgin" was hysterical but everything else was just dreadful. 
<BR>
<BR>Costume-wise it was fun. That white dress based on a sari Nicole wears near the end was too too beautiful! [And she looked great in it pale or not] Still flamboyant costumes are not always the best costumes. Can you say "Gosford Park"? Delicious!</FONT></HTML>

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Moulin Rouge.
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> <<<tapping my foot>>>>>>  Teddy....... you missed my pre-show review
> of the film back in May.  Your mission... go to the archives and find
> it. This movie is meant to be funny and not to be taken seriously. 

I realize that but I found such a miniscule part of it funny that it 
would be hard to quantify it.

> Think of it in the tone of Blazin' Saddles or Rocky Horror.  Geeze...
> I thought you of all people would find the twisted humor in the film. 

Sorry Penny, but, it missed entirely - it's no comparable in humour 
to either of thoes films...  Whatever sense of humour they were 
aiming for wasn't even *close* to mine and as for the *awful* 
renditions they did of most of the songs....<shudder>.  And since I 
don';t watch anything just for the sake of the costumes (which 
seemed fairly good as far as I recall) it's really just a flop in my view.
 
> Do I need to come to England and watch the film with you?

You'd be more than welcome to come visit,  but perhaps we'd 
better watch something different....

> The more you watch this film, the funnier it is. <<<throwing a piece
> of leftover toast from the Rocky Horror film at Teddy>>>>>

<dodging the toast and squirting back with a  storm-scene water-
pistol> *Pthphpht!*  Don't believe you.  It's depressing and 
generally pretty dire.... Nya!....<G>

Teddy
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In a message dated 3/28/02 8:11:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> ... I thought you of all
> people would find the twisted humor in the film.  

I to just watched it for the first time the otherday.  My husband watched 
with me and he liked it better then I did.  I didn't find it humorous.  What 
he found humorous was the fact that he could recognize all of the songs.  
What happened to having an original song in a movie.  
The ending was the most moving make sense part.  I thought some of the dance 
numbers were long and there wasn't enough dialogue.  
Some of the costumes were great but not anything I would want to wear.  They 
were all dance and bedroom outfits mainly though.  I don't really think it 
was worth watching either.
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/28/02 8:11:48 AM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">... I thought you of all
<BR>people would find the twisted humor in the film. &nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I to just watched it for the first time the otherday. &nbsp;My husband watched with me and he liked it better then I did. &nbsp;I didn't find it humorous. &nbsp;What he found humorous was the fact that he could recognize all of the songs. &nbsp;What happened to having an original song in a movie. &nbsp;
<BR>The ending was the most moving make sense part. &nbsp;I thought some of the dance numbers were long and there wasn't enough dialogue. &nbsp;
<BR>Some of the costumes were great but not anything I would want to wear. &nbsp;They were all dance and bedroom outfits mainly though. &nbsp;I don't really think it was worth watching either.
<BR>Kelly
<BR>m311@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:23:39 -0600
Status: RO

Holy Cow!

I thought I was the only person on the planet who wasn't bedazzled by
'Moulin Rouge'!!!! There are others! Yes, I understood that it was meant
to be taken as a humorous piece, yes I understood that Baz Luhrman was
using a technique that heightened the artificiality of the movie. I even
bought the DVD just to get the behind the scenes info. I actually like
the hand-held cam shots of the dance rehearsals better than the final
film versions. For a guy who is supposed to be this great 'dance
director', he really butchered the dances. In the movie the dances become
an incoherent mass of moving colors rather than a coherent whole. And
since the movie was taken as a comedy (and a farcical one at that), it
was hard to get really emotionally involved with the characters and
really care about them. This, in turn, made the pathos at the end fall
rather flat because I really didn't care very much about the characters. 

To bring this  kicking and screaming back to costuming, I did like a lot
of the costumes and wish that some of the background characters had been
featured more as their outfits were really quite interesting. The DVD has
costume sketches and an interview with the costumer who describes what
she was thinking of as she designed the look of the movie and special
considerations she had to get specific points across. Honestly, I watch
the behind the scenes stuff on the movie much more than I watch the movie
itself!


Karen

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From: Katie <nejma@tds.net>
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:28:24 -0600
Status: RO

I'mmmmm baaackkk!

Katie
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:18:22 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 3/28/2002 10:27:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
seamstrix@juno.com writes:


> This, in turn, made the pathos at the end fall
> rather flat because I really didn't care very much about the characters. 
> 

All that "The most important thing you'll ever learn is that LOVE is the most 
important...blah blah blah..." is fine....if you're 12 years old. This is 
just so lame, and coupled with the worst songs of Pop [of all the top 40 hits 
ever recorded, we get these?!] it killed the film....which otherwise had some 
fine ideas. [I love the back and forth aerial shots of the digitalized faux 
Paris....evoking the swing from which Nicole does her 1st number.]

I was thinking though, what a great concept for a film of something like 
Bernstein's "Candide". Voltaire's biting satire would more than keep the 
fluff at bay and still be appropriately over the top.

In the best of all possible worlds, of course. 

--part1_120.da3c79f.29d49c4e_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 3/28/2002 10:27:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, seamstrix@juno.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">This, in turn, made the pathos at the end fall
<BR>rather flat because I really didn't care very much about the characters. 
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>All that "The most important thing you'll ever learn is that LOVE is the most important...blah blah blah..." is fine....if you're 12 years old. This is just so lame, and coupled with the worst songs of Pop [of all the top 40 hits ever recorded, we get these?!] it killed the film....which otherwise had some fine ideas. [I love the back and forth aerial shots of the digitalized faux Paris....evoking the swing from which Nicole does her 1st number.]
<BR>
<BR>I was thinking though, what a great concept for a film of something like Bernstein's "Candide". Voltaire's biting satire would more than keep the fluff at bay and still be appropriately over the top.
<BR>
<BR>In the best of all possible worlds, of course. </FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 28 15:12:45 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Dressmaking questions
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 14:24:15 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


1. Didn't someone on this list once describe a line of patterns that is
generated based on each client's measurements? As I recall, you join a
club, they send you a video that tells you how to measure yourself in a
million different places, and you get a catalog of patterns that can be
custom-made to your measurements. Is that company still around? What is
it? Has anyone on the list used it successfully?

2. A non-sewing friend in Northern Virginia (near Washington, DC) has
asked me if I can recommend a decent professional dressmaker. She'd like
clothes that fit for a change. If you have had a happy personal experience
with someone in that area, please let me know. Replies off-list, please.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Moulin Rouge.
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 12:42:40 -0800
Status: RO


>This
>movie is meant to be funny and not to be taken seriously.

I never heard of that show, so I hadn't realized it was supposed to be a 
comedy.  I got wrapped up in the 'ose bit at the front, and thought the 
general silliness of the film cheapened that.

The credits showed that some of the characters had the same names as 
contemporary people from that milieu.  And the costumes turned out to be 
historically based.  It was too 'ose to be a comedy, took too many 
liberties with history to be a real historical, and too historical to be a 
fantasy.  I thought it was confusing and not funny, and I didn't like 
it.  The costumes were merely ok, and I don't lust after any of them.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:34:29 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
> 
> > The more you watch this film, the funnier it is. <<<throwing a piece
> > of leftover toast from the Rocky Horror film at Teddy>>>>>
> 
> <dodging the toast and squirting back with a  storm-scene water-
> pistol> *Pthphpht!*  Don't believe you.  It's depressing and 
> generally pretty dire.... Nya!....<G>

Have you ever _seen_ the original final scenes for Rocky Horror
Picture Show?  Talk about dire and depressing...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:02:48 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:00 AM -0600 3/28/02, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
>Unfortunately, that just means that they are in use.  I have no 
>control over that part.  Sorry.  There are currently 120 members of 
>HCostume swap & sell.  Maybe try something a little off the wall?
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>At 06:37 PM 3/27/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>>Okay,
>>     I've tried at least_four_different user names and it keeps telling me
>>they're already in use.  What gives?

I think part of the problem is that it's not just the 120 members of 
the HCostume thing, but all the members of any of the "communityzero" 
functions.  I had the same problem when I set a yahoogroups account 
-- all the usual short forms of my name were taken.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] Re:Moulin Rouge
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:09:16 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:52 AM -0500 3/28/02, M311@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 3/28/02 8:11:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>>... I thought you of all
>>people would find the twisted humor in the film. 
>>
>
>
>I to just watched it for the first time the otherday.  My husband 
>watched with me and he liked it better then I did.  I didn't find it 
>humorous.  What he found humorous was the fact that he could 
>recognize all of the songs.  What happened to having an original 
>song in a movie.  


I believe that was a feature, not a bug.


>The ending was the most moving make sense part.  I thought some of 
>the dance numbers were long and there wasn't enough dialogue.  
>Some of the costumes were great but not anything I would want to 
>wear.  They were all dance and bedroom outfits mainly though.  I 
>don't really think it was worth watching either.

Once I wrapped my brain around the "concept" of the film, and viewed 
it as opera rather than a historically-based movie, I enjoyed it a 
great deal.  It was weird, because I started out mentally squirming 
and wincing and trying to figure out if it was meant to be awkwardly 
silly or embarrassingly sincere.  I have to go back and see it again 
from the beginning some time with my brain in the right place from 
the start.

It helps to notice all the stock plot features and tropes: courtesan 
dying of tuberculosis, framing story of struggling writer, bumbling 
amateur acting troupe, play-within-a-play, etc.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 28 17:58:18 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Moulin Rouge
In-Reply-To: <p04320408b8c8fd64ac96@[136.152.196.78]> "from Heather Rose Jones
 at Mar 28, 2002 09:09:16 am"
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:53:51 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> At 9:52 AM -0500 3/28/02, M311@aol.com wrote:
> >In a message dated 3/28/02 8:11:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
> >h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> >
> >>... I thought you of all
> >>people would find the twisted humor in the film. 
> >>
> >
> >
> >I to just watched it for the first time the otherday.  My husband 
> >watched with me and he liked it better then I did.  I didn't find it 
> >humorous.  What he found humorous was the fact that he could 
> >recognize all of the songs.  What happened to having an original 
> >song in a movie.  
> 
> 
> I believe that was a feature, not a bug.

And there was, one, original song in the movie, written by Baz Lurhman himself.


> >The ending was the most moving make sense part.  I thought some of 
> >the dance numbers were long and there wasn't enough dialogue.  
> >Some of the costumes were great but not anything I would want to 
> >wear.  They were all dance and bedroom outfits mainly though.  I 
> >don't really think it was worth watching either.
> 
> Once I wrapped my brain around the "concept" of the film, and viewed 
> it as opera rather than a historically-based movie, I enjoyed it a 
> great deal.  It was weird, because I started out mentally squirming 
> and wincing and trying to figure out if it was meant to be awkwardly 
> silly or embarrassingly sincere.  I have to go back and see it again 
> from the beginning some time with my brain in the right place from 
> the start.
> 
> It helps to notice all the stock plot features and tropes: courtesan 
> dying of tuberculosis, framing story of struggling writer, bumbling 
> amateur acting troupe, play-within-a-play, etc.

Yes, it's positively shakespearean, and done really well at that.
I personally loved the frantic pace -- made me tink of running through
a disneyland [for adults] at top pace.  

But then, the first time I saw it, I thought "someone made this movie just 
FOR ME" because it tickled every desire of mine.  Course, I love
the director in anything he does.

.heather.meadows.

> 
> Heather
> -- 
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Moulin Rouge.
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:56:58 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:42 PM 03/28/2002 -0800, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>
 I got wrapped up in the 'ose bit at the front, 

what is 'ose?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 28 19:12:11 2002
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:06:16 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


I'd recommend going and changing your Yahoo preferences immediately,
if you use them.


.heather.meadows.



----- Forwarded message -----

Important!  If you don't want to receive a lot of spam from 
advertisers, please note the following:

Yahoo has revised its privacy policy. Your former preferences have 
now been changed. You will need to reset them. Here's how.

After logging in to Yahoo, click the tab at the top of the page that 
says "Account Info." Enter your password. When that page opens, 
scroll to just under your listed email addresses. Then click on 
"Edit Marketing Preferences." 

When that page opens, you'll see that Yahoo has set each option to 
YES (please send me spam). You'll need to click on each and every 
option to change it to NO. Near the bottom of the page, be sure to 
check NO about phone and postal delivery of advertising. then 
click "Save changes."

Folks, I suggest, "Do it today!"

----- End of forwarded message -----
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 28 19:27:27 2002
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:21:58 -0800
Status: RO

Something else that might interest you is, we recently downloaded a new
version of our firewall program, ZoneAlarm.  We set it to reject
third-party cookies, that some sites let advertisers place--but not
"session" cookies or cookies from the site itself.  Yahoo simply will
not let me sign in unless I allow it to place third-party cookies.

Fran

Heather Meadows wrote:

> I'd recommend going and changing your Yahoo preferences immediately,
> if you use them.
>

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 00:04:11 -0000
Status: RO

Thanks Heather

Mel

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HCostume fabric sell or swap...
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:45:04 -0600
Status: RO

Doh!  I'm sure you're right Heather.  That's what I get for doing my email 
around 1 am.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:02 AM 3/28/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>At 1:00 AM -0600 3/28/02, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
>>Unfortunately, that just means that they are in use.  I have no control 
>>over that part.  Sorry.  There are currently 120 members of HCostume swap 
>>& sell.  Maybe try something a little off the wall?
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Danielle
>>
>>At 06:37 PM 3/27/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>>>Okay,
>>>     I've tried at least_four_different user names and it keeps telling me
>>>they're already in use.  What gives?
>
>I think part of the problem is that it's not just the 120 members of the 
>HCostume thing, but all the members of any of the "communityzero" 
>functions.  I had the same problem when I set a yahoogroups account -- all 
>the usual short forms of my name were taken.
>
>Heather
>--
>*****
>Heather Rose Jones
>hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
>*****

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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 17:11:55 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I apologize if this is a repeat, but I never saw my
first message appear.

I want to make a corded bodice and have found a source
for 1/4" hemp, but I will have to buy a roll of 600
feet!  Anyone who might be interested in buying some
of this cord, please contact me privately.

Also, I had posted information about a silk textiles
show at the University of Rhode Island.  Unfortunately
I threw the info. out after I wrote the first message.
 If you're interested check their website, www.uri.edu

Laurie

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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Moulin Rouge
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 19:57:17 -0600
Status: RO

I too was dissapointed in many ways with this movie.  We rented this and Ghost World at 
the same time and watched them back to back.. Ghost World came first.... it was 
entertaining, funny, satirical, and had moments that made you think and laugh.
Moulin Rouge.... I absolutely loved the Paris set, was very surprised that Nicole and Ewan 
could sing that well, but the entire movie I kept thinking, what is it that I seem to be 
missing, this is just not that funny, even when they were trying to seem absurd, it came 
off as forced absurdness.   I also enjoyed the dvd specials more than the movie, and the 
sketches and discussion of the costumes was much more entertaining for me.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hemp & silk
From: Sarah Lorraine <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:12:11 -0800
Status: RO

You'd be surprised at how quickly 600 ft of rope will go... Especially if
you're doing full cording in the corset such as an effigy style one.  You
might want to hold off on selling the excess until you know for sure how
much you do or don't have...

Sarah


on 3/28/02 5:11 PM, Laurie McDonough at laurie88888@yahoo.com wrote:

> I apologize if this is a repeat, but I never saw my
> first message appear.
> 
> I want to make a corded bodice and have found a source
> for 1/4" hemp, but I will have to buy a roll of 600
> feet!  Anyone who might be interested in buying some
> of this cord, please contact me privately.
> 
> Also, I had posted information about a silk textiles
> show at the University of Rhode Island.  Unfortunately
> I threw the info. out after I wrote the first message.
> If you're interested check their website, www.uri.edu
> 


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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 21:37:48 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, There are a number of folks out there that manufacture good quality
bucket-top boots. The original person was just looking for images, was
it, or looking to get a pair? If you want to make a pair cheaply, and you
have a little bit of leatherworking skill, you can modify modern boots.
This works for theatrical purposes, but, as Teddy says, you can get
better pairs from bespoke shoemakers that are immensely more accurate.
There is even a business out of Ireland where they manufacture their own
buff leather for their boots and buffcoats, but you pay dearly for their
unerring accuracy. If you want to see pictures, you can look at Valerie
Cumming's "A Visual History of Costume: The Seventeenth Century" for a
few images, or any number of paintings and woodcuts from Jacques Callot
to Abraham Bosse to Anthony Van Dyck.  Mike T. PS for info on the
theatrical version for bucket-tops, send me a note privately, I can walk
you through it. MJT



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Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 20:05:20 -0800
Status: RO


>  I got wrapped up in the 'ose bit at the front,
>
>what is 'ose?

It's a Filk term, from morose, as in 'ose and morose.

(yeah, yeah, what's Filk?')

Filk is like what Alan Sheman and Weird Al Jankovich do to ordinary songs.


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 06:39:02 -0600
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Could someone please help this nice gentleman?
If you could please email him directly at 

sheydel@bellsouth.net

Message and address forwarded with his approval.

Katie

Steve Heydel wrote:
> 
> Greetings All,
>     Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any information on the
> method used by Elizabethans to cover wooden buttons (as illustrated in
> Janet Arnolds "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620)? I know they used silk
> and probably silk thread; has anyone ever seen an actual diagram or
> explanation as to how they did it?
> 
> THL Edmund Cavendish
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 07:03:02 -0600
Status: RO

<snip>

Lavolta Press wrote:

>Yahoo simply will not let me sign in unless I allow it to place third-party cookies.
>
>Fran
>
I have my privacy preferences set to "enable cookies from the 
originating website only", and
don't have any trouble with yahoo groups.  

Katie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Mar 29 11:29:01 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 10:41:56 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I'll be lecturing at the (SCA) Kingdom of Outlands Costume Collegium on
April 6-7 in Trinidad, Colorado (about midway between Colorado Springs and
Albuquerque). Mary Denise Smith, also of this list, is the event planner.
Will anyone else from this list be there? I'd love to meet you.

Schedule is posted at <http://www.caerthe.org/ccv/ccv.html> (follow the
"Class Schedule" link), but it's still being updated; I am told I'll be
giving two more classes on Sunday (on the sideless surcote and the
V-necked "Burgundian" gown) in addition to my Saturday classes on the
Gothic fitted dress and the Greenland gored gown.

--Robin


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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 13:52:03 -0700
Status: RO

I don't know of any primary source, but I have a book somewhere in this
mess that shows how to wind  and sew thread onto wooden mold forms.  Ah,
here it is:  50 Heirloom Buttons to Make, by Nancy Nehring.  ISBN
1-56158-146-1 , Taunton Press.  

Its been awhile since I looked at it.  While the techniques they are
illustrating are later (1700-800) I doubt they have changed much.


**> Greetings All,
**>     Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any information on the 
**> method used by Elizabethans to cover wooden buttons (as 
**illustrated in 
**> Janet Arnolds "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620)? I know they 
**used silk 
**> and probably silk thread; has anyone ever seen an actual diagram or 
**> explanation as to how they did it?
**> 
**> THL Edmund Cavendish

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Mar 29 18:49:49 2002
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 23:41:44 +0100
Status: RO

Hello,.
I would say they did the same way as i do, cut a round piece of the silk
fabric, gather it at the edge, place the wooden mould into it, and
tighten the gathering.Then whipstitch the edges together at the back
side of the button, and Voila.
But in Costume Close Up from Colonial Williamsburg, they makes the
buttons from a four'edged piece of fabric, same result, but
different...........

Bjarne
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Thank-you for the heads up.  I really appreciated it!
Moira

> 
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> if you use them.


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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:40:09 -0800
Status: RO

Hmmm, Now that you mention it, I *was* expecting one of the troupe to don an 
ass's head and become the "Bottom" of the group.  I'd forgotten about that 
bit.  Possibly because they murdered Nirvana. :{

-Laura


>It helps to notice all the stock plot features and tropes: courtesan dying 
>of tuberculosis, framing story of struggling writer, bumbling
>amateur acting troupe, play-within-a-play, etc.

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Subject: [h-cost] two books of note
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 16:51:24 +0000
Status: RO

Respectfully submitted:

I now have multiple copies of two books from Europe, for sale, which
have been recently mentioned favorably on this list:

Seipel, W. & Wieczorek, A. et al. DES KAISERS TEURE KLEIDER. 2000. Reiss
Museum, Mannheim. “EMPEROR’S EXPENSIVE CLOTHES”, exceptional, suptuous,
large exhibition catalog. Imperial court, Vienna 18thC - 1918. Mostly
male costume: uniform, robes, liveries etc. + a number of women's formal
gowns, on dummies and some details. profuse color and b/w illus. lg 4to.
card covers. 271p. in German.

Hammar, Britta, &  Rasmussen, Pernilla. KVINNLIGT MODE UNDER TVÅ SEKEL.
2001. Lund. practical & social analysis women’s fashion garments
1730-1860. 144 color illus: garments on dummies, details, fashion plates
+ stitch & pattern diagrams. 191p. 4to. in Swedish w/ brief English
summary.

Email for info on price, shipping etc.

Fred Struthers
fsbks@mcn.org

--
http://www.rlshep.com/



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Subject: [h-cost] eBay too!
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:43:10 -0500
Status: RO

I just read an article on CNet where eBay did this same thing that Yahoo
did, except they changed your perferences a while back.  Now I know why I am
getting all that eBay email Spam... Like the eBay golf spam I received
today.

Here is a clip from the article:
The criticism from TRUSTe over the changes marked the second time in a year
that the watchdog organization and eBay have been at odds over the company's
privacy policy. Last year, TRUSTe criticized eBay when the company reset the
personalized settings of millions of its customers from "no" to "yes" on
questions such as: "Do you want to receive calls from telemarketers."

The full article is at http://news.com.com/2100-1017-863294.html

If you don't want the junk mail and solicitors calling you, go to eBay,
click on my eBay, then preferences/set-up.  Then click on "Change my
notification preferences" and go down the list and check what you really
want to receive.  You may be surprised/angry when you get a little ways down
the list.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 00:18:55 -0500
Status: RO


Related to the many discussions of Oscar dresses last week, the Toronto
Globe & Mail had a long article on Saturday Mar 30 about the dress Halle
Berry wore, how it was seen by stylist Phillip Bloch who thought it would be
great for Berry but how much adjustment they had to do before they felt it
was perfect for the "red carpet" . It was designed by a Lebanese designer
named Elie Saab and the article makes the comment that by the end it was
more a Bloch than a Saab. There is quite an interesting description of all
the changes that were made for it to fit Berry. (This also relates to some
of the comments on this list about how badly some of the dresses fitted the
wearers because that were NOT adjusted to the stars' figures)
The actual address of the article is about 3 lines long and I know these
often get cut
off when copied to an email so it's better to go to the newspaper address
below and
then go to the bottom of the page at "7 Day Search" and ask for THE IT
DRESS.

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/

Kathy Cleaver

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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 01:52:21 -0500
Status: RO

Kathy,

Thanks for sending us to the article.  It was really interesting.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathy Cleaver" <kcleaver@acs.ryerson.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 12:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Halle Berry's Oscar dress


>
> Related to the many discussions of Oscar dresses last week, the Toronto
> Globe & Mail had a long article on Saturday Mar 30 about the dress Halle
> Berry wore, how it was seen by stylist Phillip Bloch who thought it would
be
> great for Berry but how much adjustment they had to do before they felt it
> was perfect for the "red carpet" . It was designed by a Lebanese designer
> named Elie Saab and the article makes the comment that by the end it was
> more a Bloch than a Saab. There is quite an interesting description of all
> the changes that were made for it to fit Berry. (This also relates to some
> of the comments on this list about how badly some of the dresses fitted
the
> wearers because that were NOT adjusted to the stars' figures)
> The actual address of the article is about 3 lines long and I know these
> often get cut
> off when copied to an email so it's better to go to the newspaper address
> below and
> then go to the bottom of the page at "7 Day Search" and ask for THE IT
> DRESS.
>
> http://www.theglobeandmail.com/
>
> Kathy Cleaver
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
>
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 31 09:09:54 2002
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 06:12:19 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hemp cord for bodice stiffening: I found a source for
1/4" hemp cord - but I have to buy a minimum order
that is much more than I need.  Please e-mail if you
might be interested in sharing and I'll give you the
details.

Silk:  I saw this ad in an alumni publication -
interestingly, Rhode Island used to have a fairly
sizeable silk textile industry.

Silk: A Historic Textile Exhibit  Textile Gallery,
Quinn Hall, University of Rhode Island, Kingston, RI
Open daily through April 15 from 8:30am to 4:30pm
This free exhibit held in conjunction with the
Biological Sciences Department, highlights the use of
silk in different times and places.  Showcased are
textiles and clothing, a DNA model of silk fiber, and
live silk worms.  For information, call Valerie Morgan
at 401-874-4574.

Laurie



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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 12:42:22 -0500
Status: RO

I'll say, over 38 hours [ I wanted to make sure it didn't scorch.
Makes me wish that I had a gas oven with a pilot, would have been
much easier!]

Only had heard of gjetost, not the cow version - thought it was a
rather generic tern, like whey-cheese or something, after all
yoghurt is yoghurt, no matter what kind of milk it is from ;-)
margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> Uh, specifically, it's the whey left after making cheese from goat's
> milk.  The cow's milk version is known as "mjetost."  Nummy stuff. 
> Takes a *long* time to cook down.
> --sue
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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 12:52:32 -0500
Status: RO

You think those piddling few plates online are great? You really
should check into buying it - I invested $125US last year and I
have not regretted one penny of the amount!!! It is 'enshrined'
along with my "Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd" and my 'SOup
for the Qan" [translation and commentary on the oldest extant
tretise of mongolian/chinese cooking]

margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> I can't BELIEVE this book is on line.  I feel I should download the whole
> thing QUICK before it goes away. Who says the Internet ain't great!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] gjetost
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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:46:01 -0700
Status: RO

Only reason I knew the difference is because this little cheese-making
book I've more-or-less permanently "acquired" from a friend mentioned
it.  They also said that it works really slick if you've got a wood
stove.  I haven't tried making it in my crockpot, but I bet that would
work, too, as long as you kept it on "low," and remembered to watch it
and stir every once and again.
--sue

marilyn traber wrote:
> 
> I'll say, over 38 hours [ I wanted to make sure it didn't scorch.
> Makes me wish that I had a gas oven with a pilot, would have been
> much easier!]
> 
> Only had heard of gjetost, not the cow version - thought it was a
> rather generic tern, like whey-cheese or something, after all
> yoghurt is yoghurt, no matter what kind of milk it is from ;-)
> margali
> --
> ~~~~~
> The Quote Starts Here:
> > Uh, specifically, it's the whey left after making cheese from goat's
> > milk.  The cow's milk version is known as "mjetost."  Nummy stuff.
> > Takes a *long* time to cook down.
> > --sue
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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:09:50 -0500
Status: RO

;-) I did use my crock pot - full of water with the whey in a
water bath so it would drop the temp from 180 to 160.

You know why I got into cheesemaking? Not because of the SCA, but
because I grew up near a cheese factory, and curds [not cottage
cheese, but cheddar curds] are sort of a comfort snack for me,
and they just are not available where I live now. I love the way
they squeek when you bite into them...

Although I did seriously prod buttocks when I brought as an arts
and sciences entry a green cheese, curds, milk mare with whey,
whey cheese, and a rennaisance whey based drink, and a paper on
the whole matter of dairy frugality being the spurring interest
in developing some of the products. I also brought homemade
butter, clotted cream, ghee and yoghurt.
margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> I haven't tried making it in my crockpot, but I bet that would
> work, too, as long as you kept it on "low," and remembered to watch it
> and stir every once and again.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] [Fwd: [TY] Button Question]
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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 12:37:57 -0700
Status: RO

Here's an online source for the same sort of information:
http://vertetsable.com/periodstyle.htm
I advise also checking out the rest of the website...It's got some very
cool, spiff things in it.  The lady who owns the site is a very
creative, knowledgable person.
--Sue

Saragrace knauf wrote:
> 
> I don't know of any primary source, but I have a book somewhere in this
> mess that shows how to wind  and sew thread onto wooden mold forms.  Ah,
> here it is:  50 Heirloom Buttons to Make, by Nancy Nehring.  ISBN
> 1-56158-146-1 , Taunton Press.
> 
> Its been awhile since I looked at it.  While the techniques they are
> illustrating are later (1700-800) I doubt they have changed much.
> 
> **> Greetings All,
> **>     Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any information on the
> **> method used by Elizabethans to cover wooden buttons (as
> **illustrated in
> **> Janet Arnolds "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620)? I know they
> **used silk
> **> and probably silk thread; has anyone ever seen an actual diagram or
> **> explanation as to how they did it?
> **>
> **> THL Edmund Cavendish
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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 12:09:27 -0800
Status: RO


>You think those piddling few plates online are great? You really
>should check into buying it - I invested $125US last year and I
>have not regretted one penny of the amount!!! It is 'enshrined'
>along with my "Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd" and my 'SOup
>for the Qan" [translation and commentary on the oldest extant
>tretise of mongolian/chinese cooking]

> > I can't BELIEVE this book is on line.  I feel I should download the whole
> > thing QUICK before it goes away. Who says the Internet ain't great!

(Assuming you're talking about Tilke's book) I've had mine for several 
years, and use it for historical, fantasy, science fiction, mundane, and 
fibre art garments.  I have his 'Costume Patterns and Designs' and his 
'Folk Art of Europe'.  I don't have his third one, all re-drawings of folk 
costumes on people, all shown tiny in crowded little rows.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 12:21:47 -0800
Status: RO

A friend of mine sent me the following URLs, the first is for Dickies with 
a cell phone pocket, and the second is for a jacket in which you can store 
all your electronics when you are walking.  These garments are historical 
in that they are a representation of what Yuppie-dom is wearing in the 
early 21st Century:

   <http://www.zemskys.com/dickies/workhorse-jean.htm>

   <http://www.scottevest.com/>  (Flash required.)

Kayta
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