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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 17th century european eunuch costume query
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Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:13:26 +0100
Status: RO

Hi everyone,
I have been asked whether a eunuch in Europe the first half of the
17th century would have been dressed in a specific manner or whether
it would simply be "normal" costume for the  period/location. I'm not
really sure where to start on this one; can anyone point me in the
right direction?
best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr  1 12:14:13 2002
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] sewing advice (slightly OT)
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Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 10:59:12 -0500
Status: RO


Hello, friends! I need some advice dealing with fabric in a dress I'm making
for my daughter.

It will be her First Communion dress, and it is modern, though the bodice
has a definite Baroque look (which I want to improve). In fact, I have
changed nearly the entire pattern. I guess I just can't sew "normally"
anymore.

Which is the problem. I am so used to sewing with wool and linen that I am
just stumped on the cotten/poly blend I'm using. I really need some hints
for the bodice. So here's the scoop:

I'm using a 2-piece Simplicity pattern (#). Because I usually sew to SAVE
money, and I've been able to buy gorgeous designer Easter dresses at
consignment stores ever year, I decided it would only be worth the
investment if she could wear the dress at least twice. So I made the skirt
and a sleeveless variation of the top for Easter. Of course, the skirt as
called for wasn't wide enough around, so I changed the skirt pattern. And my
daughter is an active, messy child and I used white eyelet, so the petticoat
had to be separate so that the top would be washable, rather than attached
as the pattern called for. So the skirt -- 3 yards of gathered eyelet -- and
the petticoat -- 3 yards of pleated taffeta -- are nothing like the pattern
called for. But it sure looks great.

Now to the bodice. I used a print and eliminated the point of the bodice for
a straight little top for her Easter dress. The pattern calls for lining it,
but for using facings too. I hate facings, they are such a pain. So I lined
it like a vest (eliminating all the raw edges) instead. But the fabric is so
light, even with the lining (light too) that I had to iron interfacing on
the finished inside to stabilize the buttons and buttonholes. This is no big
deal, because the top is one she'll just wear with shorts from now on.

The eyelet fabric I have for the First Communion top (which will have the
pointed bodice and elbow-length sleeves with eyelet engagements) is just as
thin as the skirt fabric. I am going to have to lengthen the bodice to
compensate for her long-waisted figure and I want to lengthen the point so
you can SEE it. What should I do to make this bodice stiff enough to look
nice without making it uncomfortable? Should I interline it with something?
Use a thick lining, maybe of linen, rather than the thin cotton I used on
the other bodice? Will topstitching and/or interlining the bodice point make
it stiff enough so that it doesn't curl up? I am already going to use corded
tape on the bottom and neck seams, will that give it enough body to stay in
place?

I am just stumped. Obviously, I don't sew much with dress-weight
cotton/poly. Any hints would be appreciated.

Thanks -- Gail Finke

P,S.: I am toying with the idea of puttling little white bows down the front
for a sort of Baroque-ish, sort of 1840s-ish look. But I don't want to
overdue it -- I'm trying for a simple, girlish look rather than all the
fussy lace and ruffles.




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr  1 12:43:20 2002
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From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [f-cost] OT: avoiding spam
In-Reply-To: <005001c1d916$b620df00$0300a8c0@centrl01.va.comcast.net>
 "from Penny Ladnier at Mar 31, 2002 07:46:50 pm"
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Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 08:38:19 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

No spyware here, I'm very careful.  I just have a 'funny' email that gets
enttered by other people into their forms, and thus I get their spam.
Since I've had my email address for so long, I'm stubborn and unwilling
to change it, so, I have to put up with the spam and try various
techniques to fight it.  Sadly, though, it's not uncommon for people with
older email address [that are therefore in unprotected web archives,
were used on usenet, or something] to get loads of spam all the time. 

Want to hear irony?  my email address was used an example in an anti-spam
mail configuration  manual that was published ALL OVER the internet by
a unix guru type who ought to have known better.  

.heather.
alice@wonderland.com


> Heather,
> 
> Have you checked your computer to see if there is spyware on it?  Has your
> computer been running slow lately?
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 11:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [f-cost] OT: avoiding spam
> 
> 
> > I get close to 200 spams a day, frequently, AFTER my mail has gone through
> > the filters for known IPs and domains of spammers, etc.  I used to try
> > to fight them at the root, but sadly it just takes way way too long.
> >
> > .heather.
> >
> >
> > > Through my experince with those opt out lists is that most of them
> > > are simply another way spammers vverify that your e-mail address
> > > is valid.
> > >
> > > Something that worked very well in reducing the amount of spam I
> > > get is by tracking down the source of the spam by going through all
> > > of the headers then complaning to the administrator about the
> > > spammer.  Many times they will cancel the users account.  Some
> > > ISP's are spam friendly.  Usually their entire IP range will be
> > > blacklisted by a majority of the internet.
> > >
> > > After tracking down the offending server I will also go after any
> > > websites they advertise in the spam.  I will also go after the
> > > "remove" e-mail account listed since this is used only to verify your
> > > e-mail address is valid.  If they use PayPal complaints will be sent
> > > to PayPal.  If they are using a merchant account I will complain to
> > > the company hosting it.
> > >
> > > Essentailly if successful this usually puts the spammer out of
> > > business.  All of the spam I have seen is advertising some kind of
> > > scam.  By doing this I have reduced the amount I get from 3-4 a
> > > day to at most 1 a week.  Spammers don't like me.
> > >
> > > > Another way to get removed from some e-mail spam lists is to go to:
> > > >
> > > > www.the-dma.org
> > > >
> > > > This is the website for the Direct Marketing Association.  Follow the
> > > > links to the "opt-out" page - there you can put your e-mail address on
> > > > what is essentially a "do not call" list.  This is good for one year.
> > > > When you set it up, you can indicate that you want to be reminded
> > > > about renewing it after one year.  This works the same for e-mail as
> > > > the Mail Preference Service and Phone Preference Service do for those
> > > > (also run by this organization).  There are instructions for signing
> > > > up for these to suppress mail and phone ads also, but you have to do
> > > > those by postal mail.
> > > >
> > > > It won't get all of the spam, but it will cut it down some.
> > > >
> > > > Also see if your e-mail server has a spam suppressor - Earthlink's (of
> > > > which radiks is a subsidiary) is called "Spaminator".  It catches
> > > > about 20-30 a week.  You can go to the site and review what they've
> > > > caught and delete it, or forward it to yourself if it was caught in
> > > > error.
> > > >
> > > > Sandy (who works for a direct mail company)
> > > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > ---
> > [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
> >
> >
> 
> 
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr  1 14:54:29 2002
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From: "Parsla Liepa" <pliepa@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [f-cost] OT: avoiding spam
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Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 13:46:37 -0500
Status: RO



>I just have a 'funny' email that gets
>enttered by other people into their forms, and thus I get their spam.

I've heard various ways that people get around putting in their email 
address when it is "required", the most common is some variation of putting 
in webmaster@whatever_domain_they're_at.com, so that the spam gets sent 
right back to the site.  I personally use null@null.com.  I was using 
null.org for a while, but then I discovered that it actually did exist.
  Parsla

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr  1 16:35:35 2002
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Spanish sewing books (Singer)
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Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 12:17:02 -0800
Status: RO


Hi All,

I'm sorry for the cross posting, but I got these books yesterday and want to 
make sure they find a good home where they will be USED.

I have;

set 1--Costura Moderna No. 1, Technicas y equipo novedosos
       Detalles de originalidad

set2--same as above plus
      Ropa para Ninos

set 3--same first three plus
       Cuidado y Renovacion de la Ropa
       Costura para el Hogar


I don't read Spanish, but from the pictures it looks like tons of info on 
embellishing, dying, trims, and more.  I have a full set in english of an 
earlier edition and I love them(these are mine).  The spanish books just 
need to be used by somebody instead of lost in the back of a garage.

If you know of anyone who would like them please email me off list and we 
can set up shipping info.  I got them for free and will pass them on that 
way.  Library rate postage is all I ask in return.

If you can't use them, please pass the post on to others who might.  I hate 
to see a great book go to waste.  ;)

Jennifer

distantdesigns@hotmail.com






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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #836 - 9 msgs
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Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:47:21 -0600
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
| Message: 6
| From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
| To: <h-costume@indra.com>
| Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:13:26 +0100
| Subject: [h-cost] 17th century european eunuch costume query
| Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
|
| Hi everyone,
| I have been asked whether a eunuch in Europe the first half of the
| 17th century would have been dressed in a specific manner or whether
| it would simply be "normal" costume for the  period/location. I'm
not
| really sure where to start on this one; can anyone point me in the
| right direction?
| best wishes
| Stevie

Stevie -

With regards to what? For example, a castrato (cut singers in Italy)
would wear elaborate and outlandish costumes in performances of
Baroque opera (See, _Euridice_, and _L'Incoronazion di Poppea_, by
Monteverdi). However, outside of the performance arts, they functioned
as normal men with a disfigurement, though with special privileges
granted them for their performance arts, at least in the circles in
which they moved, as rather pampered individuals. This is, of course,
accounting for their attempting to live a mainstream life and not
being eccentric and dressing in women's clothes or the like.

Castration was also a form of punishment for misbehaving slaves,
especially black slaves. They would continue to try dress normally as
well because they couldn't necessarily afford tailored clothing and
because of their societal demands on the clothing of male slaves, as
well as sumptuary laws, unless their owners were funny in the head and
made them dress differently.

For an example, though a bit glamorized and out of your period, of how
one of the castrati lived in their heyday, watch the movie
_Farinelli_ - it's not precise, but you'll get the idea. (Note: the
French *hated* to have castrato in their operas - it was unpopular and
ridiculed as an Italianate perversity, especially once Lully came to
power in the music scene in France. Actually, come to think of it, the
French liked opera, but came to hate anything Italianate in it, so
they made their own "style.") I'm afraid that I don't know of any
movies or documentaries that discuss the fate of castrated male
slaves.

Margaret Northwode
"Douce et innocent à l'extérieur, mauvaise et croquante à
l'intérieur."

_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 22:32:47 +0100
Status: RO

Margaret wrote:
 a very helpful reply to my query on the dress of male eunuchs of the
first half of the 17th century; my thanks. You've not only given me a
place to start but also speeded me down the road...
best wishes
Stevie



---------------------------
With regards to what? For example, a castrato (cut singers in Italy)
would wear elaborate and outlandish costumes in performances of
Baroque opera (See, _Euridice_, and _L'Incoronazion di Poppea_, by
Monteverdi). However, outside of the performance arts, they functioned
as normal men with a disfigurement, though with special privileges
granted them for their performance arts, at least in the circles in
which they moved, as rather pampered individuals. This is, of course,
accounting for their attempting to live a mainstream life and not
being eccentric and dressing in women's clothes or the like.

Castration was also a form of punishment for misbehaving slaves,
especially black slaves. They would continue to try dress normally as
well because they couldn't necessarily afford tailored clothing and
because of their societal demands on the clothing of male slaves, as
well as sumptuary laws, unless their owners were funny in the head and
made them dress differently.

For an example, though a bit glamorized and out of your period, of how
one of the castrati lived in their heyday, watch the movie
_Farinelli_ - it's not precise, but you'll get the idea. (Note: the
French *hated* to have castrato in their operas - it was unpopular and
ridiculed as an Italianate perversity, especially once Lully came to
power in the music scene in France. Actually, come to think of it, the
French liked opera, but came to hate anything Italianate in it, so
they made their own "style.") I'm afraid that I don't know of any
movies or documentaries that discuss the fate of castrated male
slaves.

Margaret Northwode
"Douce et innocent à l'extérieur, mauvaise et croquante à
l'intérieur."

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr  1 22:17:40 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing advice (slightly OT)
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Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 19:16:34 -0700
Status: RO

I'd interline it, with an interfacing designed for lighter-weight
fabrics. Maybe a couple of layers?  And I'd keep the lining relatively
light, too.  If you add anything too heavy, it might end up looking
really funky, since you'd be fighting the natural tendencies of the
fabric.
If you still need additional body, perhaps lightly starching it? And if
the point curls up or is otherwise unsatisfactory, perhaps putting in
some featherweight boning? (Along the same kinds of lines you'd do for
an adult pattern, but without the -uh- shaping and lifting properties
that she doesn't need.)
And if she's messy (lord knows, I was a messay kid, too, and make a
pretty messy adult <g>), think about scotch-guarding the hem areas
(after testing to see if it's noticeable, of course).....
Oh, and don't forget to post pictures when you're done.  I'm sure she'll
look adorable....
--Sue (no daughters, but I used to sew for my much, much younger sister)

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> 
> Hello, friends! I need some advice dealing with fabric in a dress I'm making
> for my daughter.
> The eyelet fabric I have for the First Communion top (which will have the
> pointed bodice and elbow-length sleeves with eyelet engagements) is just as
> thin as the skirt fabric. I am going to have to lengthen the bodice to
> compensate for her long-waisted figure and I want to lengthen the point so
> you can SEE it. What should I do to make this bodice stiff enough to look
> nice without making it uncomfortable? Should I interline it with something?
> Use a thick lining, maybe of linen, rather than the thin cotton I used on
> the other bodice? Will topstitching and/or interlining the bodice point make
> it stiff enough so that it doesn't curl up? I am already going to use corded
> tape on the bottom and neck seams, will that give it enough body to stay in
> place?
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 17th century european eunuch costume query
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Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 19:50:48 -0700
Status: RO

Not an expert in this area in the least, but just wondering what you
mean by a eunuch.  A castrati probably wouldn't dress anymore
differently than any other person from an opera cast (as extreme as they
might be), but a eunuch guarding a harem (probably not in Europe
though??) might have a particular "uniform"-but would it be radically
different from another man's garb from that time and place?  Are there
other types of eunuchs as a group that I am not aware of?

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
**Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 6:13 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: [h-cost] 17th century european eunuch costume query
**
**
**Hi everyone,
**I have been asked whether a eunuch in Europe the first half 
**of the 17th century would have been dressed in a specific 
**manner or whether it would simply be "normal" costume for the 
** period/location. I'm not really sure where to start on this 
**one; can anyone point me in the right direction? best wishes Stevie
**
**_______________________________________________
**h-costume mailing list
**h-costume@mail.indra.com 
**http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
**

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr  2 10:10:49 2002
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:56:52 EST
Status: RO


<<  The woman who won for Best Supporting actress, I forget her name, could
 use
 > a sandwich while you're up.  And tell her, if you haven't got anything to
 > hold up a strapless dress other than the bones in your chest, consider a
 > different cut, please.
 >
 
 This was Jennifer Connelly-- anyone else remember her in "Labyrinth"?  :) >>


It's strange, too, because in "The Rocketeer" she wore a white evening dress 
that proved she CAN have cleavage!

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Nicole's washed-out look
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:26:23 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/27/02 5:39:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< And before I stop moaning - why would anyone with fabulous pale skin 
 like Nicole ever wear pale colours?  I am still breathless with 
 adoration from seeing Moulin Rouge last week (for the first time - I'm 
 just slow).  Wear black, dear girl! >>

That's me!  White skin, so black clothes.  Wish I'd discovered the formula 
back in high school...

--Gillian the goth
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Oscars: desinger dresses that don't fit
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:41:23 EST
Status: RO

<< As far as ill-fitting Oscar dresses go, I think it is you get dress free if
 you fit the sample size the designer provides, thus the further pressure to
 be the sample size or smaller. I think Halle Berry had her dress custom-made
 or is the perfect designer sample size everywhere.
 
 Frankly, I'm all for bringing back the 1870's or 1880's bustle
 sometimes--the question being: Does my butt look big enough?
 Cindy Abel >>

They mentioned dresses being "provided" at the Golden Globes.  I've no idea 
if it's free, but it did seem many actresses contract to wear a dress to an 
event to publicize it for the designer.  Often, those actresses do not even 
see the dress until the day of the event.  I think this is a bad practice, 
because if the dress doesn't fit properly, the designer only gets bad 
publicity and the actress gets a good thrashing from Joan Rivers.  As for 
Halle's awesome dress -- totally something I'd wear -- I'm wondering if she 
wasn't the only one who NEVER expected her to win?  Designers try to put 
their latest creations on the Oscar "sure picks", but no African American 
woman had ever won Best Actress before.  Perhaps no designer backed her, so 
she got to wear her own choice of gown.  (Totally speculating here.)  I only 
say this because her dress was probably the best fit I saw all evening.  As a 
seamstress, I'm particularly sensitive about fit, and I think designers 
should pay more attention to that fashion factor too.

LOL at the bustle comment, because I have a late Elizabethan persona in the 
SCA...  (bum roll + cartridge pleating + farthingale  = BIG bum!)

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:42:32 EST
Status: RO

<< As far as ill-fitting Oscar dresses go, I think it is you get dress free if
 you fit the sample size the designer provides, thus the further pressure to
 be the sample size or smaller. I think Halle Berry had her dress custom-made
 or is the perfect designer sample size everywhere.
 
 Frankly, I'm all for bringing back the 1870's or 1880's bustle
 sometimes--the question being: Does my butt look big enough?
 Cindy Abel >>

They mentioned dresses being "provided" at the Golden Globes.  I've no idea 
if it's free, but it did seem many actresses contract to wear a dress to an 
event to publicize it for the designer.  Often, those actresses do not even 
see the dress until the day of the event.  I think this is a bad practice, 
because if the dress doesn't fit properly, the designer only gets bad 
publicity and the actress gets a good thrashing from Joan Rivers.  As for 
Halle's awesome dress -- totally something I'd wear -- I'm wondering if she 
wasn't the only one who NEVER expected her to win?  Designers try to put 
their latest creations on the Oscar "sure picks", but no African American 
woman had ever won Best Actress before.  Perhaps no designer backed her, so 
she got to wear her own choice of gown.  (Totally speculating here.)  I only 
say this because her dress was probably the best fit I saw all evening.  As a 
seamstress, I'm particularly sensitive about fit, and I think designers 
should pay more attention to that fashion factor too.

LOL at the bustle comment, because I have a late Elizabethan persona in the 
SCA...  (bum roll + cartridge pleating + farthingale  = BIG bum!)

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Museum Replicas
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:56:53 EST
Status: RO

<< I'd be wary of anything from a company that has "Bram Stoker's Dracula" in 
an 
 "Our Favorite Movies" category! Bleck!!! >>

Their boots are none too comfortable, I'm told.  I know very many fantasy 
LARPers that have bought them and said so.

As for their clothing, if you are a size XS like me then don't bother.  Their 
idea of Small is more like what sells as a Medium in retail stores.

Now, on swords and weapons, they have my highest regard.  As a swordswoman, I 
would not use any sword in live steel combat that did not come from them with 
their combat-ready guarantee.  Most of their blades are by Windlass 
Steelcrafts, and still Museum Rep insists on battle-testing the weapons on 
some very rough materials.  I went to their showroom in GA and bought a mace 
for cheap that was labeled "used".  The woman explained that it was the 
prototype and had been used to test its sturdiness before they added it to 
their catalog.  She then showed me the cast iron stove it had cracked all the 
way through!  And not a scratch on the mace, BTW.

--Gillian, seamstress AND swordswoman
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sample sizes changed?
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:14:59 EST
Status: RO


<< Are sample sizes smaller these days?  Back in the 1970s, 
 showroom samples were an 8, and most actresses tend to be 2 and 4.>>

Ah!  Good question!  And although 1970's is not my historical specialty, I 
can answer this one.  The answer is, if you check the measurements of a size 
8 from 1970 and a size 2 from 1990 onward, you'll find they are exactly the 
same!  

I found this out when it came time for my Junior Prom.  My mother insisted 
she had an old evening dress in size 9/10 that would fit me perfectly, and I 
was like, "Mom, are you nuts?!  I'm a 3/4.  You could fit 2 of me in a 9/10!" 
   But when I tried it on, it fit exactly right-- and was exactly the style 
I'd been shopping for in the mall for 6 weeks.

  I was confused, so I tried on all her old stuff.  Then I tried on new stuff 
with lower size numbers like 7.  The modern 7's were way too big, but the old 
9/10's fit.  If you buy commercial patterns nowadays, you'll notice that your 
pattern size is a much higher number than the size you wear in a store.  
That's because the pattern companies still use the 1970 scale -- almost.  I'm 
a pattern size 12.

So the next qustion would be:  Why the change?  The answer seems to be: 
PSYCHOLOGY AND MARKETING.   Women feel more confident with a lower number -- 
makes them feel skinny -- so they're more likely to buy the dress in the 
retail store if they can say "I'm a size 6!" rather than (back in 1970) "Ugh! 
 I'm a size twelve?!"

The whole thing's very silly -- but important to know if you like to buy 
vintage clothes!

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 11:05:52 -0500
Status: RO

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Now, on swords and weapons, they have my highest regard.  As a swordswoman, I 
> would not use any sword in live steel combat that did not come from them with 
> their combat-ready guarantee. 

	I dunno, I know a guy who bought one from them with their 
guarantee and fought with it - and had to send it back three 
times for replacement when the swords kept breaking! Finally 
he gave up fighting with it.
	-Judy Mitchell

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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:00:14 EST
Status: RO

<< The pattern calls for lining it,
 but for using facings too. I hate facings, they are such a pain. So I lined
 it like a vest (eliminating all the raw edges) instead. But the fabric is so
 light, even with the lining (light too) that I had to iron interfacing on
 the finished inside to stabilize the buttons and buttonholes. >>

To call for both lining AND facings is a bit unusual, but I can hazzard a 
guess.   I'll bet the directions in the pattern tell you to use a fusible 
interfacing on the facings, right?  If so, the facings are probably 
positioned under where the buttons and buttonholes will be.  Hence, the 
interfacing on the facing would reinforce your buttons.

Since you dislike facings AND you want to make the bodice point stiff, I'd 
recommend ironing a fusible interfacing to the entire bodice piece before you 
sew, then lining the bodice as you did before.  It won't be too stiff to be 
comfortable, but should keep the point from curling.  Just don't lengthen the 
point too much; long points require boning.

--Gillian
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Museum Replicas
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:42:59 -0500
Status: RO

Yup, I agree with Judy.  Our group fights "live steel", and won't use MR
stuff, ever.  One guy did buy the sword they sell as being specifically
made for heavy use, and he says that sword has the most dull feel and
sound of any of the swords we use.  He doesn't like it, and won't use it
very often.

For the best usable swords for the money, with a guarantee, try a
Starfire. They do break if you're really mean to them, but the customer
service is excellent. 
We just got 2 swords from a company in Czechoslovakia, and they are
_sweet_!  It took a while to get them in, but was well worth it.

And on a costume note, I totally agree with the assessment that their
clothes are just about the worst thing going, and are neck-and-neck with
Chivalry Sports for the Don't Go There award.

Linda   

Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> Now, on swords and weapons, they have my highest regard.  As a
swordswoman, I 
> would not use any sword in live steel combat that did not come from
them with their combat-ready guarantee. 

On Behalf Of Judy Mitchell
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Museum Replicas
	I dunno, I know a guy who bought one from them with their 
guarantee and fought with it - and had to send it back three 
times for replacement when the swords kept breaking! Finally 
he gave up fighting with it.
	




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Subject: [h-cost] Bum rolls (WAS: Re: Oscars)
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:30:36 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:41 AM -0500 4/2/02, Azelana@aol.com wrote:
>Cindy Abel wrote:
>>Frankly, I'm all for bringing back the 1870's or 1880's bustle 
>>sometimes -- the question being: Does my butt look big enough?
>
>LOL at the bustle comment, because I have a late Elizabethan persona in the
>SCA...  (bum roll + cartridge pleating + farthingale  = BIG bum!)

I'm told that in the 16th century, big hips were considered sexy and 
desireable -- hence the clothing that made you look that way whether 
you were or not.

Conveniently, Elizabethan clothing also allows nicely for those of us 
who already have natural... errr... padding in that area -- you just 
put more or less stuffing and stiffening into your skirts, depending 
on how much you "need" for the right look. (I use a rather _small_ 
bumroll myself...<g>)
-- 
____________________________________________________________
O  Christian Ashley, gentlewoman to Lady Stafford
|     Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
+   Guild of St. George, Northern California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bum rolls (WAS: Re: Oscars)
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Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 12:56:22 -0800
Status: RO


>>>Frankly, I'm all for bringing back the 1870's or 1880's bustle sometimes 
>>>-- the question being: Does my butt look big enough?
>>
>>LOL at the bustle comment, because I have a late Elizabethan persona in the
>>SCA...  (bum roll + cartridge pleating + farthingale  = BIG bum!)
>
>I'm told that in the 16th century, big hips were considered sexy and 
>desireable -- hence the clothing that made you look that way whether you 
>were or not.

Large hips seem to be fashionable in most tiny-waist periods.  I've just 
been doing a lot of 1890's research, and even not counting the tiny waists 
shown in photographs, their hips are way big.  (Put your finger over the 
waist to see what I mean.)  But Victorian/Edwardian is the period of 'bust 
improvers', and other remedial understructure.


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 16:57:05 -0500
Status: RO

--=====================_68285971==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 10:44 AM 4/2/02 -0700, you wrote:
>For the best usable swords for the money, with a guarantee, try a
>Starfire. They do break if you're really mean to them, but the customer
>service is excellent.

I second this.  I went to the forge, which is about 3 hours away form my 
house a few years ago and I got to play with some of their goodies 
*grin*  I walked out with a pair of short swords and they were worth every 
penny (I think I paid about $125 apiece). I used them heavily for years 
until I "lost" them in a move *sigh*.


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_68285971==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 10:44 AM 4/2/02 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>For the best usable swords for the
money, with a guarantee, try a<br>
Starfire. They do break if you're really mean to them, but the
customer<br>
service is excellent. </blockquote><br>
I second this.&nbsp; I went to the forge, which is about 3 hours away
form my house a few years ago and I got to play with some of their
goodies *grin*&nbsp; I walked out with a pair of short swords and they
were worth every penny (I think I paid about $125 apiece). I used them
heavily for years until I &quot;lost&quot; them in a move *sigh*.<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</a><a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">html<br>
</a><font size=4>Gallery:
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_68285971==_.ALT--

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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 20:20:53 -0800
Status: RO

My remark, along with a suitably wide-eyed innocent stare is "bum roll?
What bum roll?"  (said with no seriousness at all)

Regina
---
Conveniently, Elizabethan clothing also allows nicely for those of us
who already have natural... errr... padding in that area -- you just
put more or less stuffing and stiffening into your skirts, depending
on how much you "need" for the right look. (I use a rather _small_
bumroll myself...<g>)
--


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Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 23:34:16 -0600
Status: RO

Blue Dragon wrote:

> Essentailly if successful this usually puts the spammer out of
> business.  All of the spam I have seen is advertising some kind of
> scam.  By doing this I have reduced the amount I get from 3-4 a
> day to at most 1 a week.  Spammers don't like me.

If you're getting 3-4 spam messages a day then you have the time to do
all that tracking and bothering.  I recently tracked the spam I received
over a three-week period -- over 700.  That averages to approximately 30
messages a day.  I just don't have the time to write nasties to that
many ISPs.

--Charlene

-- 
When aiming for the common denominator, be prepared for the occasional
division by zero.
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bum rolls (WAS: Re: Oscars)
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Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 21:43:12 -0800
Status: RO


>My remark, along with a suitably wide-eyed innocent stare is "bum roll?
>What bum roll?"  (said with no seriousness at all)

It's a roll of padding, anywhere from the size of a large sausage to the 
size of an inner tube (car tires/tyres used to have them), worn around your 
'bum' (backside), to make your Elizabethan skirt stick out in a large-hips 
sort of way.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Oscars
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 03:53:13 -0500
Status: RO

In most cases the stars jewelry and gowns are loaned to them for the awards
programs.  That's why they mention who the designers are.  There was a big
article in April 1998 McCall's magazine about it.  The stars are referred to
as "walking billboards."

>From that article is where I got the idea to be a walking billboard to go to
my first ball.  You can read about it at my Cyber Cinderella story,
http://www.costumegallery.com/Cyber/Cindy.htm  A designer loaned me a
$10,000 dress to wear to the Ball.  The second ball, I wore a 1959 debutante
ball gown.  The search is on for my gown to wear to the next ball in August.

This week's People magazine has really nice photos of the Oscar gowns.  I
just picked up the issue today. There is a special section for the vintage
gowns.   You can see a nice photo of the $27 million necklace.  LOL!!!  They
touched up the photo of Gwynth's gown.  My husband pointed that one out to
me.  The best photo of the gowns was Renee's... very beautiful train.  Kate
W. also looked lovely.

Back to the sick bed.... my whole family has the flu now.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr  3 05:34:01 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sample sizes changed?
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 04:27:56 -0500
Status: RO

I modeled in the mid-late 70s and my size was 10/12.  The other girls who
modeled with me wore the same sizes.  Don't think models have small feet
either.  Size 10 then.  Most people think I wear a size 4 dress... I am just
petite built, but I have size 38 hips and am 5' 10" to 5" 11".  I am not
thick or round.  I'm wide and narrow.  Now I wear a size 12 shoe and people
just can't believe my feet are really that big... its all an illusion folks.

My youngest sister made the modeling/beauty pageant rounds in the late
70s/early 80s.  She still does some modeling today as an almost 40 y.o.  She
is 6 ft.  She has a larger frame than I do.  She wears a 12/14 and is in
high demand for jobs today.  And I would like to add that my sister does not
model in the large size category.  She also wears a size 12 shoe.

My sister has worked a lot with the Miss America pageant and Pageanty
magazine as a dresser and makeup artist.  This business is suck it in, tape
it in, create the illusion.   A lot of photos in magazines are touched up so
much, it is unreal to believe these are the same people.

When I first worked with the Princess Diana dresses, I thought she was going
to be a short petite woman.  I held up her dress and said... she was the
same size that I am.  Guess what size? ten!  Comparing her photos over the
years after she had her children she got bigger in the bust.  That was the
major difference in the body of her clothing.  In her photos, the main time
you notice that she is super thin is when she was having eating disorders.
How can you tell??? By her face, not her clothing.

You all know by working with costumes of various periods, you can hide many
things by focusing on this or that part of the body.  You can hide any
imperfection by playing up a great feature.  That's why I love working as a
dresser.  It is mastering illusion through dress, makeup, and hairstyles.

That's my two cents... I am really going to bed now.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Rocky Horror (WAS: Moulin Rouge.)
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 11:39:30 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Have you ever _seen_ the original final scenes for Rocky Horror
> Picture Show?  Talk about dire and depressing...

There are different ones from Frank and Rocky beong killed and 
Brad, Janet and Dr Scott being left among the wreckage when the 
house takes off for Transexual Transilvania?

News to me....  And those would have been dire and depressing 
too if the whole film (and the stage-show for that matter) hadn't 
been a stonking good comedy with well performed original songs, 
dance numbers and a funny script.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  "ose" and Filk, (WAS: Moulin Rouge.)
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 11:46:34 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >what is 'ose?
> 
> It's a Filk term, from morose, as in 'ose and morose.
> 
> (yeah, yeah, what's Filk?')
> 
> Filk is like what Alan Sheman and Weird Al Jankovich do to ordinary
> songs.

Nicelt put,  Kayta, not that the likes of you and I would be *in any 
way* connected with the Filk scene or filkers....<GGG>

Teddy
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [f-cost] OT: avoiding spam
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 15:09:44 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Does anyone have any experience using spamcop?
Rachel

 --- Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net> wrote: > Blue Dragon wrote:
> 
> > Essentailly if successful this usually puts the spammer out of
> > business.  All of the spam I have seen is advertising some kind of
> > scam.  By doing this I have reduced the amount I get from 3-4 a
> > day to at most 1 a week.  Spammers don't like me.
> 
> If you're getting 3-4 spam messages a day then you have the time to do
> all that tracking and bothering.  I recently tracked the spam I received
> over a three-week period -- over 700.  That averages to approximately 30
> messages a day.  I just don't have the time to write nasties to that
> many ISPs.
> 
> --Charlene
> 
> -- 
> When aiming for the common denominator, be prepared for the occasional
> division by zero.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 10:25:05 EST
Status: RO


> Their boots are none too comfortable, I'm told.  I know very many fantasy 
> LARPers that have bought them and said so.
>
> As for their clothing, if you are a size XS like me then don't bother.  
Their 
> idea of Small is more like what sells as a Medium in retail stores.

I got two sets of tights from them that actually fit, but then the tights 
were the only things in the catalog (as of a couple years ago) that had an 
actual size chart.  The ankle boots I bought at the same time for gaming/SF 
con wear had to be returned for a size I could actually squeeze my feet into, 
and I followed their size-ordering instructions exactly.  (I wear men's 
sneakers often, since white shoes aren't very practical for me and that's the 
only color most American shoe stores get women's sneakers in -- so I knew 
exactly what my shoe size on the men's scale is.  My then-seven year old 
nephew probably could have worn what they sent ....)

Leah
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr  3 13:06:02 2002
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From: "Ulrika A. O'Brien" <uaobrien@uci.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [f-cost] OT: avoiding spam
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 08:40:42 -0800
Status: RO

I have used Spamcop.  It's free to use their service, and
the site has pretty complete instructions on how to use
their spam tracking and reporting correctly (it's important
that you submit the full headers on the spam, and reveal
codes for any embedded html, but they give you
step-by-step for how to do it) and the actual spam tracking
is done automatically by their software, as is the reporting.
Once you learn the basic steps, it's very easy to use, but
it does still take however long it takes you to cut-and-paste
the spam into their website and wait for the tracking to go
through.  (If you join their service, for some pretty nominal
fee, the wait time goes down.)

It's actually kind of fun to watch the tracking (I particularly
like the way it keeps referring to my ISP's bad headers as
"bozotic" and the little "Yum, this spam is fresh!" message
that pops up when they haven't had a previous report on a
particular spam source) so I do it when I have time, but not
as consistently as I probably should.

Their website:

http://spamcop.net/

At 06:09 AM 4/3/2002, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any experience using spamcop?
>Rachel
>
>  --- Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net> wrote: > Blue Dragon wrote:
> >
> > > Essentailly if successful this usually puts the spammer out of
> > > business.  All of the spam I have seen is advertising some kind of
> > > scam.  By doing this I have reduced the amount I get from 3-4 a
> > > day to at most 1 a week.  Spammers don't like me.
> >
> > If you're getting 3-4 spam messages a day then you have the time to do
> > all that tracking and bothering.  I recently tracked the spam I received
> > over a three-week period -- over 700.  That averages to approximately 30
> > messages a day.  I just don't have the time to write nasties to that
> > many ISPs.
> >
> > --Charlene
> >
> > --
> > When aiming for the common denominator, be prepared for the occasional
> > division by zero.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>http://uk.my.yahoo.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr  3 13:52:26 2002
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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1936 vintage ironing board
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 09:46:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

A friend just called and asked if I wanted a 1936 vintage ironing board.  This
just isnt my living history era.  So I though of all of you. (How could I not?)

Solid cherry wood, nifty nameplate with company name & mfg date.  Free to good
home. 

Contact kriden123@aol.com for further info, pick/delivery arrangements. 
Silicon Valley location...


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Coming to Chicago *and* Detroit...
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 10:36:52 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--0-1371391567-1017859012=:27457
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


An exhibit titled "The Medici, Michelangelo, and the Art of Late Renaissance Florence is coming November 9, 2002-February 2, 2003 in Chicago then to Detroit in March 2003!!

It also says "COSTUMES!" Wonder what will be included--does anyone know where the de'Medici grave clothes are housed?? It would just be too much to hope that those garments would be stable enough to travel...

Kate

>From the AIC website: 
http://www.artic.edu/aic/exhibitions/michelangelo.html                                                                       
"The Medici, Michelangelo, and the Art of Late Renaissance Florence 
--------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Regenstein Hall 

Overview: In collaboration with the Soprintendenza per i Beni Artistici e Storici in Florence and the Detroit Institute of Arts, The Art Institute of Chicago is organizing this major international exhibition of approximately 180 paintings, sculptures, graphics, porcelain, tapestries, costumes, and other works of art. The exhibition will provide a detailed survey of the art and culture of Florence between 1537, the election of Cosimo I de’Medici as Duke of Tuscany, and 1631, the death of his grandson, Cosimo II de’Medici. Featured will be sculptures and drawings by Michelangelo from the period of the artist’s early association with Cosimo I, as well as important works by other artists employed by the Medici, such as the painters Bronzino, Pontormo, and Salviati, and the sculptors Cellini and Giambologna. Many of the objects, including some of the most celebrated sculptures from the Boboli Gardens and works from the Studiolo (vaultroom) of Francesco I de’Medici in the Palazzo !
Vechhio, have never before traveled out of Florence. 

Other Venues: Palazzo Strozzi, Florence; The Detroit Institute of Arts 

Curators: Larry Feinberg, Patrick G. and Shirley W. Ryan Curator of European Painting, The Art Institute of Chicago; Alan P. Darr, ,Walter B. Ford II Family Curator of European Sculpture and Decorative Arts, The Detroit Institute of Arts; Marco Chiarini, director emeritus, Palazzo Pitti, Florence "



 



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<P>An exhibit titled "The Medici, Michelangelo, and the Art of Late Renaissance Florence is coming November 9, 2002-February 2, 2003 in Chicago then to&nbsp;Detroit in March 2003!!</P>
<P>It also says "COSTUMES!" Wonder what will be included--does anyone know where the de'Medici grave clothes are housed?? It would just be too much to hope that those garments&nbsp;would be&nbsp;stable enough&nbsp;to travel...</P>
<P>Kate</P>
<P>From the AIC website: <BR><A href="http://www.artic.edu/aic/exhibitions/michelangelo.html">http://www.artic.edu/aic/exhibitions/michelangelo.html</A>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>"The Medici, Michelangelo, and the Art of Late Renaissance Florence <BR>--------------------------------------------------------------------- <BR>Regenstein Hall <BR><BR>Overview: In collaboration with the Soprintendenza per i Beni Artistici e Storici in Florence and the Detroit Institute of Arts, The Art Institute of Chicago is organizing this major international exhibition of approximately 180 paintings, sc!
ulptures, graphics, porcelain, tapestries, <FONT color=black>costumes</FONT>, and other works of art. The exhibition will provide a detailed survey of the art and culture of Florence between 1537, the election of Cosimo I de’Medici as Duke of Tuscany, and 1631, the death of his grandson, Cosimo II de’Medici. Featured will be sculptures and drawings by Michelangelo from the period of the artist’s early association with Cosimo I, as well as important works by other artists employed by the Medici, such as the painters Bronzino, Pontormo, and Salviati, and the sculptors Cellini and Giambologna. Many of the objects, including some of the most celebrated sculptures from the Boboli Gardens and works from the Studiolo (vaultroom) of Francesco I de’Medici in the Palazzo Vechhio, have never before traveled out of Florence. <BR><BR>Other Venues: Palazzo Strozzi, Florence; The Detroit Institute of Arts <BR><BR>Curators: Larry Feinberg, Patrick G. and Shirley W. Ryan Curator of European !
Painting, The Art Institute of Chicago; Alan P. Darr, ,Walter!
 B. Ford II Family Curator of European Sculpture and Decorative Arts, The Detroit Institute of Arts; Marco Chiarini, director emeritus, Palazzo Pitti, Florence "</P>
<P><BR><BR>&nbsp;</P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="$rd_url/welcome/?http://taxes.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Tax Center</a> - online filing with TurboTax
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Subject: [h-cost] Bum Rolls
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 12:57:36 -0600
Status: RO

My remark, along with a suitably wide-eyed innocent stare is "bum roll?
What bum roll?"  (said with no seriousness at all)

Regina
---

I couldn't keep a straight face :).  My remark would have been along the line of: (in bad hispanic accent) "Bumrolls?  We don't need no stinking bumrolls!!!!"

Catherine

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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coming to Chicago *and* Detroit...
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 11:04:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Kate <ailithmac@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> An exhibit titled "The Medici, Michelangelo, and the Art of Late Renaissance
> Florence is coming November 9, 2002-February 2, 2003 in Chicago then to
> Detroit in March 2003!!
> 
> It also says "COSTUMES!" Wonder what will be included--does anyone know where
> the de'Medici grave clothes are housed?? It would just be too much to hope
> that those garments would be stable enough to travel...

At the Pitti Palace, Florence.  I have the catalog, but the exhibits have been
closed for renovation for YEARS.  Is the show going anywhere else?  Like the
West Coast? the East Coast?


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr  3 16:55:49 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: ironing board
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 15:32:36 -0500
Status: RO


Cin wrote:

"A friend just called and asked if I wanted a 1936 vintage ironing board.
This
just isnt my living history era.  So I though of all of you. (How could I
not?)

Solid cherry wood, nifty nameplate with company name & mfg date.  Free to
good
home." 


If no one wants the 1936 ironing board, your friend could check with local
history museums. I used to work for one, and we always wanted things like
that for our collections.

Gail Finke


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Subject: [h-cost] Jaqueline Kennedy Fashion Exhibit
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:02:05 -0700
Status: RO

http://www.wamu.org/dr/

The Diane Rehm show interview with the curator of this event can be
heard at the above URL.  The exhibit is at the Corcoran Gallery of Art
in D.C.

Thought some of you might be interested.

Saragrace

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bum Rolls
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 16:59:00 -0500
Status: RO

I wore my 1st doublet bodice elizabethan to a big a&s event. Black velvet
w/wide black braid guards and a cartridge pleated skirt. I was sooo proud,
until...a friend and fellow garb freak walks up behind me, pokes me in the
butt and asks, "hey, izzy, is that a bum roll?". I replied, calmly, "no,
lynn, that's my ass".
I'm not sure which of us was more embarrassed:)
laurie
> My remark, along with a suitably wide-eyed innocent stare is "bum roll?
> What bum roll?"  (said with no seriousness at all)
> 
> Regina
> ---
> 
> I couldn't keep a straight face :).  My remark would have been along the line
> of: (in bad hispanic accent) "Bumrolls?  We don't need no stinking
> bumrolls!!!!"
> 
> Catherine
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:15:21 -0500
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Does anyone have an email address for Heather Swann, costumer and SCA
member in the Washington, DC area?  I found  book she loaned me several
years ago (oops!) and want to return it.

-- Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bum rolls (WAS: Re: Oscars)
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 18:56:08 -0800
Status: RO

Chuckle!

	Kayta, I meant that my "bum roll" is built in, or as Catherine says "Bum
Roll!  We don't need no steeking Bum Roll!"

Regina

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 9:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bum rolls (WAS: Re: Oscars)



>My remark, along with a suitably wide-eyed innocent stare is "bum roll?
>What bum roll?"  (said with no seriousness at all)

It's a roll of padding, anywhere from the size of a large sausage to the
size of an inner tube (car tires/tyres used to have them), worn around your
'bum' (backside), to make your Elizabethan skirt stick out in a large-hips
sort of way.


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr  4 00:05:23 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Coming to Chicago *and* Detroit...
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:54:21 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--0-1580910185-1017892461=:21093
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 It looks like only one other place, and that's in Italy...
Other Venues: Palazzo Strozzi, Florence
Kate
 
  Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com> wrote: 
--- Kate wrote:
> 
> An exhibit titled "The Medici, Michelangelo, and the Art of Late Renaissance
> Florence is coming November 9, 2002-February 2, 2003 in Chicago then to
> Detroit in March 2003!!
> 
> It also says "COSTUMES!" Wonder what will be included--does anyone know where
> the de'Medici grave clothes are housed?? It would just be too much to hope
> that those garments would be stable enough to travel...

At the Pitti Palace, Florence. I have the catalog, but the exhibits have been
closed for renovation for YEARS. Is the show going anywhere else? Like the
West Coast? the East Coast?


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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<P> It looks like only one other place, and that's in Italy...
<P><STRONG>Other Venues:</STRONG> Palazzo Strozzi, Florence
<P>Kate
<P>&nbsp;
<P>&nbsp; <B><I>Cin &lt;hysteria95126@yahoo.com&gt;</I></B> wrote: 
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"><BR>--- Kate <AILITHMAC@YAHOO.COM>wrote:<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; An exhibit titled "The Medici, Michelangelo, and the Art of Late Renaissance<BR>&gt; Florence is coming November 9, 2002-February 2, 2003 in Chicago then to<BR>&gt; Detroit in March 2003!!<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; It also says "COSTUMES!" Wonder what will be included--does anyone know where<BR>&gt; the de'Medici grave clothes are housed?? It would just be too much to hope<BR>&gt; that those garments would be stable enough to travel...<BR><BR>At the Pitti Palace, Florence. I have the catalog, but the exhibits have been<BR>closed for renovation for YEARS. Is the show going anywhere else? Like the<BR>West Coast? the East Coast?<BR><BR><BR>=====<BR>--cin<BR>Cynthia<BR>hysteria95126@yahoo.com<BR><BR>__________________________________________________<BR>Do You Yahoo!?<BR>Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax<BR>http://taxes.yahoo.com/<!
BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume</BLOCKQUOTE>I<p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="$rd_url/welcome/?http://taxes.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Tax Center</a> - online filing with TurboTax
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr  4 10:42:17 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bum Rolls
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 07:39:07 -0700
Status: RO

ROTFLMAO.....
--Sue, who has no butt to speak of, and needs a bumroll to balance out
being -uh- "front heavy" <g>

randl wrote:
> 
> I wore my 1st doublet bodice elizabethan to a big a&s event. Black velvet
> w/wide black braid guards and a cartridge pleated skirt. I was sooo proud,
> until...a friend and fellow garb freak walks up behind me, pokes me in the
> butt and asks, "hey, izzy, is that a bum roll?". I replied, calmly, "no,
> lynn, that's my ass".
> I'm not sure which of us was more embarrassed:)
> laurie
> > My remark, along with a suitably wide-eyed innocent stare is "bum roll?
> > What bum roll?"  (said with no seriousness at all)
> >
> > Regina
> > ---
> >
> > I couldn't keep a straight face :).  My remark would have been along the line
> > of: (in bad hispanic accent) "Bumrolls?  We don't need no stinking
> > bumrolls!!!!"
> >
> > Catherine
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr  4 10:59:13 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Heather Swann
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:51:30 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Mara,

I haven't seen Heather in some time (she's not really active in the 
SCA anymore), but I believe her email is currently heather@pop.net.
Good luck!

--Jessica

At Wednesday, 03 April 2002, you wrote:

>Does anyone have an email address for Heather Swann, costumer and SCA
>member in the Washington, DC area?  I found  book she loaned me several
>years ago (oops!) and want to return it.
>
>-- Mara
>Kevin + Mara Riley
>
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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: ironing board
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:25:41 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> If no one wants the 1936 ironing board, your friend could check with local
> history museums. I used to work for one, and we always wanted things like
> that for our collections.
> 
> Gail Finke

Good point.  Silly me at docent at 3 and didnt think of that.

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr  4 19:20:46 2002
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:15:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


 I just started making a caul, following the
directions on Drea's site, and I have 3 white ones cut
out from a linen/cotten. I was going to decorate 2 and
leave one plain. I'm wondering if caul's were mainly
white, or can they be from any color and a variety of
fabrics?
 Also I'm thinking of doing an interwoven ribbon
pattern on one with 3-shades of blue and pearls, is
ribbon an appropriate decoration?  I'm thinking to do
this one quick on the machine, and plan a more
elaborate one later.
 Any suggestions or ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks!
Sheila

Phoenix, AZ

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr  4 19:22:47 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Antique Satin?
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:16:54 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

 I found something in the decorator section of my
local JoAnns called "Antique Satin" it feels like a
poly/rayon and it hangs really nicely.  Does anyone
know what this is or has used it before?

Thanks!
Sheila

Phoenix, AZ

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique Satin?
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:29:21 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 4 Apr 2002, Sheila wrote:

>  I found something in the decorator section of my local JoAnns called
> "Antique Satin" it feels like a poly/rayon and it hangs really nicely.  
> Does anyone know what this is or has used it before?

Antique satin is used quite commonly for drapery. It varies from smooth to
very slubby, and has a noticeable satin grain. The back is often quite
smooth, even slick. It usually comes in neutral and decorator tones --
white, ivory, taupe, various blues and pinks and greens -- but sometimes
in bright colors as well. You'll pay top price at a place like Joann's,
but if you have a store near you that sells decorator/drapery remnants,
you can often find sizable amounts as low as $1/yard.

The fiber content is almost always rayon/acetate. I used to use it a lot
as a silk imitation, particularly for linings. However, it does not
breathe very well, and it wears badly. Rayon does not hold up well to
sweat; I had one antique satin dress that literally disintegrated under
the arms. I do not use it at all now, except for things like (modern)
draperies, but if you find the right texture and color, it can be an
economical and attractive silk imitation for uses that are not close to
the body (e.g. an Elizabethan petticoat). I don't know how it would stack
up for later periods.

--Robin




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From: carol <ladynoire1013@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Caul Question
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:32:56 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--0-1876201363-1017970376=:96177
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


 Hi Sheila,
Could you send me directions on how you make your ribbon cauls ?  I want to make one but have no idea how to do so.
 
Thanks
Carol


....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....

"The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."

"The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde


---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
--0-1876201363-1017970376=:96177
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<P>&nbsp;Hi Sheila,
<P>Could you send me directions on how you make your ribbon cauls ?&nbsp; I want to make one but have no idea how to do so.
<P>&nbsp;
<P>Thanks
<P>Carol</P><BR><BR>....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....<br><br>"The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."<br><br>"The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde<p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="$rd_url/welcome/?http://taxes.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Tax Center</a> - online filing with TurboTax
--0-1876201363-1017970376=:96177--
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 23:33:49 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, Sheila. I haven't been over to Drea's for a while now. What piece of
headgear is the caul again? If you are referring to either a cap and/or
forehead cloth, there are many extant ones out there with polychrome
embroidery, metallic lace and spangles. I couldn't speak for either
ribbon or beads, as I can't remember ever seeing either an extant one or
one from a painting, etc.  On an aside, I picked up a catalog from a
company with some books that may be of interest to some on the list.
Schiffer Publishing published books on, among other topics, vintage
fashions and accessories. the website is www.schifferbooks.com. Fred
Struthers probably has some of the titles, or might be able to get
gently used copies if the prices are too steep, perhaps (huh, Fred?)
Cheers, Mike T.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr  5 00:48:38 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Outlands Costume Collegium
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 21:56:00 -0700
Status: RO

Greetings to the Lists,

As some of you may know, The Outlands has suffered a painful loss with
the death of Mistress Kiriel of Windhover Cliff.

Because of this, Outlands Costume Collegium has made a few minor
adjustments to the schedule.

We will be going forward with the event this weekend, and invite all who
are interested in clothing from the Fall of the Roman Empire to the
beginning of the Modern Era to join us in Trinidad, Colorado.

There is one dorm room (2 beds) available for both Friday and Saturday
night. The cost is $25 per night single, or $20 per person, per night
double. If anyone wishes to occupy this room, please email me privately (editor@costumemag.com).

The Costume Collegium Committee and the teachers look forward to seeing
you this weekend. For further information, please check the web site http://www.caerthe.org/ccv/ccv.html

YIS,

Lady Marged Tylluan Fach
autocrat
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique Satin?
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 22:36:39 -0700
Status: RO

I picked up some (med/dark blue on one side, pretty much black on the
satin side) dirt cheap in the flat folds section of a JoAnn's years ago,
and made a fairly successful gwahzee coat out of it.  Robin's
right...doesn't breathe too well, so I wear it at the occasional SCA
camping event in the evenings, when I don't feel like tripping around in
the dark with a lot of skirts.  Haven't noticed a sweat problem, or
wear-and-tear problems, but then, I don't make use of it that often,
especially since I've been bitten by the Authentic Fibers Bug...<g>
--sue, just going over her linen stash tonight, as a matter of
fact.....<g>

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Thu, 4 Apr 2002, Sheila wrote:
> 
> >  I found something in the decorator section of my local JoAnns called
> > "Antique Satin" it feels like a poly/rayon and it hangs really nicely.
> > Does anyone know what this is or has used it before?
> 
> Antique satin is used quite commonly for drapery. It varies from smooth to
> very slubby, and has a noticeable satin grain. The back is often quite
> smooth, even slick. It usually comes in neutral and decorator tones --
> white, ivory, taupe, various blues and pinks and greens -- but sometimes
> in bright colors as well. You'll pay top price at a place like Joann's,
> but if you have a store near you that sells decorator/drapery remnants,
> you can often find sizable amounts as low as $1/yard.
> 
> The fiber content is almost always rayon/acetate. I used to use it a lot
> as a silk imitation, particularly for linings. However, it does not
> breathe very well, and it wears badly. Rayon does not hold up well to
> sweat; I had one antique satin dress that literally disintegrated under
> the arms. I do not use it at all now, except for things like (modern)
> draperies, but if you find the right texture and color, it can be an
> economical and attractive silk imitation for uses that are not close to
> the body (e.g. an Elizabethan petticoat). I don't know how it would stack
> up for later periods.
> 
> --Robin
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 09:26:32 +0200
Status: RO

Hi,

I just saw this dress on eBay.
I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1089872144

Greetings,
        Deredere

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bum Rolls
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 09:51:44 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I wore my 1st doublet bodice elizabethan to a big a&s event. Black
> velvet w/wide black braid guards and a cartridge pleated skirt. I was
> sooo proud, until...a friend and fellow garb freak walks up behind me,
> pokes me in the butt and asks, "hey, izzy, is that a bum roll?". I
> replied, calmly, "no, lynn, that's my ass". I'm not sure which of us
> was more embarrassed:)

A number of years ago I made my first inroads into dcorset making 
with the Tudor corset from the Hunnisett book....  I was worried as 
the girl I was making it for was considerably bigger thant he 
patterns in the book but it turned out beautifully.  The first time my 
firend tried it on (over a flowery night-dress as she hadn't finished 
her smock) she looked at herself proudly in the mirror then turned 
sideways for a look at her profile.... she turned to me and said 
"shelves at the front and at the back - at least I won't need to make 
a bum-roll.

And it was, quite literally, a shelf,  the waist-tabs sat completely 
horizontal across the perfectly flat top surface of her bum!

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Museum Replicas
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 10:03:58 EST
Status: RO

<< For the best usable swords for the money, with a guarantee, try a
 Starfire. They do break if you're really mean to them, but the customer
 service is excellent.  >>

Certainly Starfires are cheap -- but you get what you pay for.  I've broken 3 
of their longswords, each within a year of purchase.  I will admit, however, 
that the last break was  6 years ago.  (Stopped buying them after that.)  
Seeing their work again last fall at King Richard's Faire, I did notice a 
marked improvement in their quality compared to the ones I had owned.

Any sword can be broken, though.  Windless Steelcrafts inspects their work, 
but does not test each blade after the prototype passes.  Museum Replicas 
then retests by ordering just a handful of the WS blades and putting them 
through hell.  (They order more than one to check the consistency of 
manufacturing quality.) But again, they do not test each blade after the 
samples pass.  This does leave the possibility of blades with manufacturer's 
defects.  It is also possible to not test appropriately for the particular 
flaws in the design.  And lastly, abused blades will always break more 
quickly.  The most commonly overlooked abuses are letting them rust and not 
polishing out nicks in the edge.  But hard use in live steel can break the 
best kept blade.  What can ya do?  

--Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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In a message dated 4/5/2002 9:57:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:


> I just saw this dress on eBay.
> I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.
> 

C'mon! You remember all those Elizabethan off the shoulder gowns with a cage 
crinoline under them, don't you? Looks like a fancy party dress from the 
"Shakespeare in Love" era. It's really not a bad looking gown, but museum 
replica it ain't!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/5/2002 9:57:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I just saw this dress on eBay.
<BR>I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>C'mon! You remember all those Elizabethan off the shoulder gowns with a cage crinoline under them, don't you? Looks like a fancy party dress from the "Shakespeare in Love" era. It's really not a bad looking gown, but museum replica it ain't!</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 07:19:22 -0800
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Hm.  Doesn't look like any I've seen...But I must not be watching the rig=
ht movies?
*wry grin*

Gia/Giacinta
trying *VERY* hard to not snark.....
----- Original Message -----
From: Deredere & Owen Iskander
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 7:10 AM
To: H-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay

Hi,

I just saw this dress on eBay.
I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D1089872144

Greetings,
        Deredere

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Hm.&nbsp; Does=
n't look like any I've seen...But I must not be watching the right movies=
?</DIV> <DIV>*wry grin*</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <=
DIV>trying *VERY* hard to not snark.....</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDI=
NG-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 =
2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Orig=
inal Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Ar=
ial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Deredere &amp; Owen Iskander</DIV> <DIV s=
tyle=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, April 05, 2002 7:10 AM</DI=
V> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> H-costume</DIV> <DIV style=3D=
"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century G=
own on eBay</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Hi,<BR><BR>I just saw this dress on eB=
ay.<BR>I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.<BR>http://cgi=
.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=3D1089872144<BR><BR>Greeting=
s,<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere<BR><BR>________=
_______________________________________<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-co=
stume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<=
BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 09:20:37 -0600
Status: RO

Is it just me or does it look like a prom dress/special occasion dress
with an old fashioned look. Can't remember when that look was popular. 

Onaree

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just saw this dress on eBay.
> I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1089872144
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Ubi dubium ibi libertas:  Where there is doubt, there is freedom. --
Latin proverb
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 07:44:42 -0800
Status: RO

Hello all,

I'm busily researching away on 14th century Italian ladies costuming and
I was wondering if there are others out there on the list that are also
researching this topic.  I would love to find a few others to chat with
(offline) about sources, fabrics, what's working, and what's not.

Best regards,

Colleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Museum Replicas
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 09:38:23 -0800
Status: RO

Just FYI, Windlass Steel Crafts purchaced Museum Replicas several years ago.
That's when they stopped carrying Del Tin and went to only Windlass blades.

Dan

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From: "Parsla Liepa" <pliepa@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century Italian costuming
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 13:00:06 -0500
Status: RO



Try the SCA-Garb list at Yahoo! groups.  I was on it for a short while, but 
couldn't keep up with the nearly 50 messages a day.  It's a very active 
list, but from what I saw, rarely does it stray off-topic. When I was on it 
(6 months ago?), there were several ladies doing Italian. (Not particularly 
my period of interest, so I didn't pay much attention to what period.)

Perhaps you could join, but with your preferences set to no-mail, and just 
browse the archives to find info/people with your interests.
  Parsla


>From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
>
>
>Hello all,
>
>I'm busily researching away on 14th century Italian ladies costuming and
>I was wondering if there are others out there on the list that are also
>researching this topic.  I would love to find a few others to chat with
>(offline) about sources, fabrics, what's working, and what's not.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Colleen


_________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 10:05:36 -0800
Status: RO

Parsla wrote:

<<Try the SCA-Garb list at Yahoo! groups.>>

I'm actually already on that list.

Thanks for the recommendation, though.

Colleen
(who thinks there have to be others doing 14th century Italian....)
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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 14:53:59 -0600
Status: RO

It amazes me what people will say on Ebay to sell something.
Maybe the dress was made by a curator at a museum, perhaps they wore it to an evening 
function, but there is no way it is a replication of anything other than someones prom 
dress.  sheesh..
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 17:12:12 -0500
Status: RO

I'm thinking it must be a -Queen Margot- gown. Y'know, like the white one at
the end that her brother, the king, bleeds all over.
laurie
> Hi,
> 
> I just saw this dress on eBay.
> I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1089872144
> 
> Greetings,
> Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 17:24:40 -0700
Status: RO


Does anyone have a phone # for Hat Matters?  They have a shipment
ready to go out to me, but I have sent them email with my postal
address three times, and all I get are notes from them saying they
haven't gotten my address yet!!

					...eliz

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 17:31:52 -0700
Status: RO

It's a very pretty costume (and obviously, lots of work went into it). 
However, 15th century it ain't....Could the seller have gotten the
century wrong or something? Heck, the farthingale doesn't even look
right for the 16th c.....more like something US Civil War-ish, to my
*completely* un-nineteenth century eyes.....
--sue

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just saw this dress on eBay.
> I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1089872144
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: Sidonia Ros <sidoniaros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hat Matters
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 17:18:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

The phone number for Hat Matters is 707/433-6002.  Or
at least that is the last number I had for them from 6
months ago.

Ghislaine


--- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a phone # for Hat Matters?  They
> have a shipment
> ready to go out to me, but I have sent them email
> with my postal
> address three times, and all I get are notes from
> them saying they
> haven't gotten my address yet!!
> 
> 					...eliz
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hat Matters
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 18:43:37 -0700
Status: RO

The # I have is 702-433-6002. Note the different area code.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr  5 22:41:35 2002
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From: Sidonia Ros <sidoniaros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hat Matters
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 18:36:55 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Eeeeek!  You're right.  The area code is definately
702.  Dyslexia is setting in.  Hat Matters is in 702
(Las Vegas) and NOT in 707 (Santa Rosa apparently).

Sorry about that.

Ghislaine



--- Sidonia Ros <sidoniaros@yahoo.com> wrote:
> The phone number for Hat Matters is 707/433-6002. 
> Or
> at least that is the last number I had for them from
> 6
> months ago.
> 
> Ghislaine
> 
> 
> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> > 
> > Does anyone have a phone # for Hat Matters?  They
> > have a shipment
> > ready to go out to me, but I have sent them email
> > with my postal
> > address three times, and all I get are notes from
> > them saying they
> > haven't gotten my address yet!!
> > 
> > 					...eliz
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr  5 23:47:16 2002
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 22:34:45 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. I am certainly no fan of Museum Ripoffs, especially their so called
"reproduction historical clothing", but the weapon issue is somewhat near and
dear to me. I remember selling blades across the street from a Starfire vendor.
The blades I was vending (not manufacturing) were of variable quality, and were
sold as such and priced accordingly. Physically, they were acceptable to the
venue in which they were being presented. Regardless, the Starfire vendor had
singled me out for especial abuse, and referred loudly to the perceived quality
(or lack thereof) of the items I was carrying. These blades were manufactured in
the Phillipines from steel stock used to cut mahogany, and is a very tough, but
slightly brittle air hardening steel. If used for their intended purpose (wall
hanger or belt decoration, or for that matter, cutting through leather, cloth or
meat) they would have done well, as I have found out since. The Starfire dealer,
however, played off the machismo and ignorance of his crowd, and demonstrated the
"superiority" of his wares by repeatedly punching them through a car hood
(mercifully detached from said car) and cinderblocks. Despite the obvious lack of
balance and symmetry of his work, it's remarkable similarity to a flattened steel
rod, and the fact that very few if any historical swords would have been used in
that way, or survived if they did, he continued his tirade. When he was at
maximum crowd capacity and volume, I was pleased to see a small gentleman walk up
and ask to inspect the sword. After having done so, he casually returned it to
the vendor and, in a clear but not loud voice, asked the fellow if it often
happened to him that he was attacked by thugs wearing cinderblocks as armor?
Needless to say, after the laughter died down, the Starfire vendor was much more
subdued in his vigor. I would not recommend either the Starfires or the MR blades
to anyone recreating steel combat. There are much better variants out there that
are both safer and last longer, are aesthetically pleasing as a copy of a
historical weapon, and are priced comparably. All this said, I do like the shape
and weight of some MR pieces, and they are trying to copy more faithfully the
shape of some extant pieces. It is a shame that they don't use Del Tin anymore.
Perhaps MR should hire someone comparable to Hank Reinhardt to overhaul their
clothing line. Any ideas? Perhaps you could be the next shining star of MR ;)
Mike T.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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In a message dated 4/5/2002 5:20:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
randl@adelphia.net writes:


> I'm thinking it must be a -Queen Margot- gown. Y'know, like the white one at
> the end that her brother, the king, bleeds all over.
> laurie
> 

That film drove me nuts. Every sleeve was the same in a period ABOUT sleeves. 
Great fabrics though.

--part1_7e.259cd009.29dfd451_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/5/2002 5:20:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, randl@adelphia.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'm thinking it must be a -Queen Margot- gown. Y'know, like the white one at
<BR>the end that her brother, the king, bleeds all over.
<BR>laurie
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>That film drove me nuts. Every sleeve was the same in a period ABOUT sleeves. Great fabrics though.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_7e.259cd009.29dfd451_boundary--
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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 10:24:41 +0200
Status: RO

HI All!

This is a bit off topic but considering some of the side comments on spam...

It is a good idea for each of us to have a back-up email provider: Why?

Well, I found that here in Germany at least, people with AOL addresses
cannot get my GMX mail and apparently they cannot get web.de mail either
(this caused a lot of confusion and a bad evaluation with some of my ebay
auctions where I sent many mails to various buyers and they claimed never to
have heard from me). When I sent mail through mac.com they got the mail.

Then I looked at that Spamcop thing and I realized that mail from any mail
could be blocked at any particular time if it has been accused of letting
spam through (if the target server has spam protection software of course).

So when someone claims to not have received mail from you, try sending mail
from a different email server and see if your message gets through. There
are enough out there that are still free that it can't hurt us :)))

I wish you all happy mailing!

Cass :)


> Does anyone have a phone # for Hat Matters?  They have a shipment
> ready to go out to me, but I have sent them email with my postal
> address three times, and all I get are notes from them saying they
> haven't gotten my address yet!!
> 
> ...eliz
> 

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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 07:04:19 -0700
Status: RO

> So when someone claims to not have received mail from you, try sending mail
> from a different email server and see if your message gets through. 
> Cass :)

Good idea, thanks.  I've tried remailing from another account, since
it's still too early to call them in NV. :)

						...eliz

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: ebay "15th century" dress
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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 10:09:54 -0500
Status: RO


This looks like a custom-made wedding dress to me, with a couple of "period"
details. I don't know that I could call it any particular period, so the
seller probably just picked one. While I wouldn't buy it for a historic
event, it would do very nicely for a wedding, prom, or fancy-dress party.

Gail Finke


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From: LalahTT@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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       I wrote the seller and asked if she might have written the 15th 
century when she meant 16th.  She wrote back that it was an error and the 
gown is supposed to be 16th century.  

       It isn't my period or style so I am not getting into the authenticity 
thing.  However, I have noticed that people on this list do tend to take 
apart costume/garb/clothing being sold on eBay by people not on the list 
without asking questions of the seller.  It is very easy to do.  Just click 
on the "ask the seller a question" listing and eBay will send your message 
on.  Why tear them apart behind their back when a simple question to the 
seller would answer you. 

       Sorry if this offends anyone, but it is the second time I have 
requested an answer from the seller when I have seen something questioned 
among members of the list.  The other list members probably don't know what 
the seller had in mind -- ask him or her and don't be so quick to criticize.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I wrote the seller and asked if she might have written the 15th century when she meant 16th. &nbsp;She wrote back that it was an error and the gown is supposed to be 16th century. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;It isn't my period or style so I am not getting into the authenticity thing. &nbsp;However, I have noticed that people on this list do tend to take apart costume/garb/clothing being sold on eBay by people not on the list without asking questions of the seller. &nbsp;It is very easy to do. &nbsp;Just click on the "ask the seller a question" listing and eBay will send your message on. &nbsp;Why tear them apart behind their back when a simple question to the seller would answer you. 
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sorry if this offends anyone, but it is the second time I have requested an answer from the seller when I have seen something questioned among members of the list. &nbsp;The other list members probably don't know what the seller had in mind -- ask him or her and don't be so quick to criticize.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 12:53:46 -0500
Status: RO

But, Lalah, it doesn't look 16th century either... though that's a bit 
closer than 15th.

It does look like a very pretty, probably well made modern bridesmaid or 
prom dress. I've deleted the original post, and am not looking at it 
now,  so I'm not asking the seller questions myself, but... it might be 
interesting to ask what piece this is a replica of. In which museum. 
Since, IIRC,  she is selling it as such, that should be a perfectly 
reasonable question. Then, the buyer can look at this and at the 
original and decide how accurate it is. And, of course, if there is no 
original piece, that raises other questions.

Anne

LalahTT@aol.com wrote:

>      I wrote the seller and asked if she might have written the 15th 
> century when she meant 16th.  She wrote back that it was an error and 
> the gown is supposed to be 16th century.  
>
>       It isn't my period or style so I am not getting into the 
> authenticity thing.  



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 09:58:11 -0800
Status: RO


>      I wrote the seller and asked if she might have written the 15th 
> century when she meant 16th.  She wrote back that it was an error and the 
> gown is supposed to be 16th century.

The seller thinks it's *supposed to be* 16th century, so we know historical 
costume is not her field.  Which means the seller is telling us what she 
was told by the museum curator/dressmaker, or what the actual owner told 
her the curator/dressmaker said, and she's selling the dress for the 
owner.  We can deduce that this curator/dressmaker isn't the curator of a 
costume museum.  (For all we know they are the curator of a car 
museum.)  So the mis-information starts there, and the seller/owner doesn't 
have the background knowledge not to believe what someone told them.

>       It isn't my period or style so I am not getting into the 
> authenticity thing.  However, I have noticed that people on this list do 
> tend to take apart costume/garb/clothing being sold on eBay by people not 
> on the list without asking questions of the seller.  It is very easy to 
> do.  Just click on the "ask the seller a question" listing and eBay will 
> send your message on.  Why tear them apart behind their back when a 
> simple question to the seller would answer you.
>
>       Sorry if this offends anyone, but it is the second time I have 
> requested an answer from the seller when I have seen something questioned 
> among members of the list.  The other list members probably don't know 
> what the seller had in mind -- ask him or her and don't be so quick to 
> criticize.
>
>Lalah
>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 11:15:29 -0800
Status: RO


Hi,

I'm sorry for the space, but I need to get a copy of the fifth Harry Potter 
book for my daughter's birthday and this is the only place I've met anyone 
from London.  If someone would be willing to price the book and postage for 
me I would send it to them in whatever form they need so that I can give my 
little fanatic what she really wants this year.

Desperate Momma,

Jennifer

PS.  my off list contact is distantdesigns@hotmail.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 20:24:21 +0100
Status: RO

Lalah wrote:

>        I wrote the seller and asked if she might have written the
15th
> century when she meant 16th.  She wrote back that it was an error
and the
> gown is supposed to be 16th century.
>        It isn't my period or style so I am not getting into the
authenticity
> thing.


Yes, indeed. If you knew anything about the costume of the 16th
century you would never have asked her if it was intended to be 16th
century; it's blindingly obvious that it isn't, just as it's
blindingly obvious that it's not 15th century.


>However, I have noticed that people on this list do tend to take
> apart costume/garb/clothing being sold on eBay by people not on the
list
> without asking questions of the seller.  It is very easy to do.
Just click
> on the "ask the seller a question" listing and eBay will send your
message
> on.  Why tear them apart behind their back when a simple question to
the
> seller would answer you.

But, as I have noted above, your "simple question" isn't one which
anyone knowing anything about the period would have asked. And, as is
also obvious, the reply you obtained is no more accurate than the
first description; it isn't an answer at all...

best wishes
Stevie Gamble

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 16:28:21 EST
Status: RO


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       God, it must be good to be so perfect!!!!!!

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;God, it must be good to be so perfect!!!!!!
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Museum Replicas
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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 21:19:45 -0500
Status: RO

Just a quick note.

Part of the confusion on the Museum Replica gown that this group is having is because when she says "Museum Replica" she doesn't mean that someone took an authentic gown from a museum and reproduced it.

Museum Replica is a company.  A bunch, if not all of their clothing line bears little resemblance to what would have been worn in whatever historical frame they categorize it as.   They *do* have some other products that aren't bad for re-enactors... and some other nifty neat stuff as well.


Having said that... I have never dealt with that company, so even though I'll say it looks good, I have no idea whatsoever what their record is on delivery, quality, etc. is... good or bad.


-Elisabeth


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 04:32:28 +0200
Status: RO

LalahTT@aol.com skrev:
> 
>      God, it must be good to be so perfect!!!!!!

Lalah, much as I respect your opinion, I think this is an unreasonably
touchy reaction. (I'll assume you're responding to Stevie since you've
not quoted anything in your post.) No offense intended. :)

Although I can't claim to be an expert on either the 15th or 16th
century, it's obvious to me that the dress in question is not a museum
replica of a gown of either period (I will of course yield if the seller
produces an original source). And that being the case, I can't see how
the fault lies with someone knowledgeable enough to point that fact out
to potential buyers - I'd have to say that a seller claiming to sell a
period, museum replica standard gown is at fault if they're simply
selling a pretty fantasy prom dress. 

The "what is OK to discuss on this list regarding ebay items" discussion
is old, an seemingly fruitless. I'll urge anyone interested to check the
archives and read through what has been said before on the subject
before posting their opinion. In this case, less is more. :)

Ingrid
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: ebay "15th century" dress
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 11:13:35 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:09 AM -0500 4/6/02, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>This looks like a custom-made wedding dress to me, with a couple of "period"
>details. I don't know that I could call it any particular period, so the
>seller probably just picked one. While I wouldn't buy it for a historic
>event, it would do very nicely for a wedding, prom, or fancy-dress party.

That was my take on it, too, and I suspect the "15th century" thing 
is just the usual confusion between 15th century and 1500s.

Basically, someone's selling off their medievaloid wedding dress. 
Nothing worth a big fuss.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 20:19:54 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:19 PM -0500 4/6/02, Liz / Cozit wrote:
>Just a quick note.
>
>Part of the confusion on the Museum Replica gown that this group is 
>having is because when she says "Museum Replica" she doesn't mean 
>that someone took an authentic gown from a museum and reproduced it.

Yes, the impression I get is that whatever it is she means by 
"replica", she isn't using it in the sense that we on this list tend 
to use it -- namely an exact copy of a real original garment from the 
time period in question. I have a feeling that this is where the 
misunderstanding lies.

I would not be surprised to discover that some people use "replica" 
in a non-technical sense to mean "inspired by the style of...." a 
particular time period. Of course, this is not what the word 
_originally_ meant, but given what's been happening to the word 
"authentic" in advertising over the last ten years or so, it wouldn't 
be surprising.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 00:20:36 EST
Status: RO

<< I wrote the seller and asked if she might have written the 15th 
 century when she meant 16th.  She wrote back that it was an error and the 
 gown is supposed to be 16th century. >>

Yes, I assumed that was the case, because she was probably thinking 1570ish 
and the number stuck in her head.  Looking at the gown with that in mind...  

If the shoulders were pulled up to where the human arm starts, and a partlet 
and ruffs were added, I think we'd all see the historic connection better.  
Imagine the shoulders NOT slipping off the mannequin, and you'll see a marked 
similarity to portraits of Queen Elizabeth, where artists do not show the 
bodice having any straps.  (Think Pelican Portrait here.)

I recently toyed with just such an arrangement, but found it a complete 
hassle to wear; the shoulder rolls with attached sleeves kept slipping off, 
just like on the eBay mannequin.  I considered buttoning or hook-n-eyeing to 
my partlet, but that pulled on my throat uncomfortably.  So, I decided to 
investigate how it worked in period.  My research so far suggests it simply 
didn't.  Except in portraits of Elizabeth I, straps are usually included on 
the bodice in portraiture, and Janet Arnold reconstructions do have straps 
(actually a continuous part of the bodice)  So, it is possible the Elizabeth 
I portraits are simply a  case of iconography --just as she is shown to have 
impossibly small hands, or holding seives to show her "virginity."

Back to the eBay dress:  The lower sleeves are still too tight, and I think 
we all disagree with the color choice.  I cannot tell if the skirt is 
cartridge-pleated either.  It's definitely not knife-pletaed, which would be 
the other acceptable period method.  Definitely needs to be worn with a 
partlet, because a dress so open in the neckline would be "indecent" without 
one.  Thick figure 8 ruffs at neck and wrists would finish it.

My $0.02,
Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 00:23:21 EST
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In a message dated 4/6/2002 4:30:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, LalahTT@aol.com 
writes:


> 
>      God, it must be good to be so perfect!!!!!! 
> 
> Lalah 
> Never Give up, Never Surrender, 
> 

Oh it is, Honey, it is!

Seriously, c'mon! The seller wants to sell it. She doesn't CARE if it's 15th 
or 16th or 23rd century. Why she would describe it wrongly may be because she 
was told a fib too, but that's no excuse for false advertising. I mean 
"Museum replica"? It's like putting a Halloween Batman costume up for auction 
and declaring it an original from the film....or something. Would you have 
such sympathy for that seller?

It sounds like you gave up and surrendered. Lighten up! None of us were very 
harsh, just truthful.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/6/2002 4:30:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, LalahTT@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;God, it must be good to be so perfect!!!!!! 
<BR>
<BR>Lalah 
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender, 
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Oh it is, Honey, it is!
<BR>
<BR>Seriously, c'mon! The seller wants to sell it. She doesn't CARE if it's 15th or 16th or 23rd century. Why she would describe it wrongly may be because she was told a fib too, but that's no excuse for false advertising. I mean "Museum replica"? It's like putting a Halloween Batman costume up for auction and declaring it an original from the film....or something. Would you have such sympathy for that seller?
<BR>
<BR>It sounds like you gave up and surrendered. Lighten up! None of us were very harsh, just truthful.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 14:54:53 +0930
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>I think it looks a bit like the gowns in Queen Margot, which i've been watching recently.</DIV>
<DIV>Can anyone tell me how accurate the costumes are, the mens look ok to me but I'm not too sure about the women's.</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca Anderson</DIV>
<DIV>aka</DIV>
<DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;I just saw this dress on eBay.<BR>&gt;I think it looks strange for a 15th century replica.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;C'mon! You remember all those Elizabethan off the shoulder gowns with a cage crinoline &gt;under them, don't you? Looks like a fancy party dress from the "Shakespeare in Love" era. &gt;It's really not a bad looking gown, but museum replica it ain't!</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM501201/z'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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In a message dated 4/7/2002 12:22:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Azelana@aol.com writes:


> .  My research so far suggests it simply 
> didn't. 

My research shows that armseyes were much much tighter than today and a very 
snug armseye will hold up a sleeve. Plus I think those big brocade fabrics 
were much lighter silks than the upholstery brocades one might use today.

Back to the eBay dress:  The lower sleeves are still too tight, and I think 
we all disagree with the color choice.  I cannot tell if the skirt is 
cartridge-pleated either.  It's definitely not knife-pletaed, which would be 
the other acceptable period method.

Color doesn't bother me, but the bodice decoration is not period at all.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/7/2002 12:22:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, Azelana@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">. &nbsp;My research so far suggests it simply 
<BR>didn't. </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>My research shows that armseyes were much much tighter than today and a very snug armseye will hold up a sleeve. Plus I think those big brocade fabrics were much lighter silks than the upholstery brocades one might use today.
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Back to the eBay dress: &nbsp;The lower sleeves are still too tight, and I think 
<BR>we all disagree with the color choice. &nbsp;I cannot tell if the skirt is 
<BR>cartridge-pleated either. &nbsp;It's definitely not knife-pletaed, which would be 
<BR>the other acceptable period method.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Color doesn't bother me, but the bodice decoration is not period at all.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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In a message dated 4/7/2002 12:27:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
lady_adele@hotmail.com writes:


> I think it looks a bit like the gowns in Queen Margot, which i've been 
> watching recently.
> Can anyone tell me how accurate the costumes are, 
> 

Not very.

Good fabrics though.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/7/2002 12:27:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, lady_adele@hotmail.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I think it looks a bit like the gowns in Queen Margot, which i've been watching recently.
<BR>Can anyone tell me how accurate the costumes are, 
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Not very.
<BR>
<BR>Good fabrics though.</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 4/6/2002 11:43:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20
claning@igc.org writes:


> I would not be surprised to discover that some people use "replica"=20
> in a non-technical sense to mean "inspired by the style of...."

Nonsense! Here's the dictionary definition....nothing "technical" about it.

Main Entry: rep=C2=B7li=C2=B7ca
Pronunciation: 're-pli-k&
Function: noun
Etymology: Italian, repetition, from replicare to repeat, from Late Latin,=20
from Latin, to fold back =E2=80=94more at <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D005796=
2.40165996.672503745">REPLY</A>=20
Date: 1824
1 : an exact reproduction (as of a painting) executed by the original artist=
 <
a replica of this was painted=E2=80=A6 this year =E2=80=94Constance Strachey=
>=20
2 : a copy exact in all details <DNA makes a replica of itself> <sailed a=20
replica of the Viking ship>; broadly : <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0014940.4=
0122974.672502676">COPY</A> <this faithful, pathetic replica=20
of a Midwestern suburb =E2=80=94G. F. Kennan>=20


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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3D3=
 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 4/6/2002=20=
11:43:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, claning@igc.org writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I would not be surprised to=
 discover that some people use "replica"=20
<BR>in a non-technical sense to mean "inspired by the style of...."</FONT><F=
ONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"=
0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Nonsense! Here's the dictionary definition....nothing "technical" about=20=
it.
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SERIF" FACE=3D"Times=20=
New Roman" LANG=3D"0"><B>Main Entry: rep=C2=B7li=C2=B7ca</B>
<BR><B>Pronunciation: </B>'re-pli-k&amp;
<BR><B>Function: </B><I>noun</I>
<BR><B>Etymology: </B>Italian, repetition, from <I>replicare</I> to repeat,=20=
from Late Latin, from Latin, to fold back =E2=80=94more at <A HREF=3D"aol://=
4344:1708.D0057962.40165996.672503745">REPLY</A>=20
<BR><B>Date: </B>1824
<BR><B>1 :</B> an exact reproduction (as of a painting) executed by the orig=
inal artist &lt;a <I>replica</I> of this was painted=E2=80=A6 this year =E2=
=80=94Constance Strachey&gt;=20
<BR><B>2 :</B> a copy exact in all details &lt;DNA makes a <I>replica</I> of=
 itself&gt; &lt;sailed a <I>replica</I> of the Viking ship&gt;; <I>broadly</=
I> <B>:</B> <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0014940.40122974.672502676">COPY</A>=
 &lt;this faithful, pathetic <I>replica</I> of a Midwestern suburb =E2=80=
=94G. F. Kennan&gt;=20
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM501201/10'>http://explorer.msn.com</a>.<br></html>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 15:53:45 -0400
Status: RO

Does anyone know the size of the ones used in Africa?  I recently got a used
cookbook that was released in Africa.
Moira
----- Original Message -----
From: "Meliora" <meliora@webone.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] metric measurements


> > A teaspoon is 5 ml, and a tablespoon is 15 ml (per my medication
> > instructor).  But since flatware is not accurate, you need to use actual
> > measuring spoons to get it right.
> > -Megan
> > (that nursing school stuff actually coming in handy on a costume list??)
>
> However in Australia, a Tablespoon is 20ml.  Something I always have to
> remember about when cooking from US or English recipes.
>
> Regards
> Meliora.
>
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 16:08:28 -0600
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Hi all,

I'm new to the list. I am actively involved in Art of Costuming, within the 
SCA, and am currently doing some research.

I maintain a spanish persona, roughly around 1515 - 1600 (which is the 
period that I dress). By any chance does anyone know of some decent Spanish 
fashion research that would perhaps aid me in the right direction? I'm 
finding this a bit frustrating, for I am finding mostly English costume 
research. Though I know English fashions were sometimes inspired by Spanish.


Any assistance is helpful.



Isabella
"The One in search of a vision"


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------=_NextPart_001_0002_01C1DE4B.ED736240
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ruth M Anderson's, "Hispanic Costume 1480-1530" is a little early, but ja=
mmed packed with much information.

Also, if I am remembering my Spain/Italy (modern usage for geographic pur=
poses) political climate, there were alliances, marriages, etc., there ma=
y be quite a bit of information via some italian sources.

The reason I like Hispanic Costume, even though my persona is italian ren=
, about the same period as you, is because you get an *extensive* history=
 of who did what, when and why that impacts many things. =20

You might want to read some biographies on some of the Popes, some of the=
m either were from Spain or retained 'Staff' (what's the word I want??? H=
ousehold?) that retained their Spanish customs and or attire.  =20

I'm sorry I can't really give you more titles, since a majority of my boo=
ks are in storage (Aaahhhhgrrrr!!!), this may get you started.  Fred has =
the Hispanic Costume book listed in his little catalog.  His email is fsb=
ks@msn.org

Gee, I hope this helped!!
Gia/Giacinta

I'm new to the list. I am actively involved in Art of Costuming, within t=
he
SCA, and am currently doing some research.

I maintain a spanish persona, roughly around 1515 - 1600 (which is the
period that I dress). By any chance does anyone know of some decent Spani=
sh
fashion research that would perhaps aid me in the right direction? I'm
finding this a bit frustrating, for I am finding mostly English costume
research. Though I know English fashions were sometimes inspired by Spani=
sh.


Any assistance is helpful.



Isabella
"The One in search of a vision"

------=_NextPart_001_0002_01C1DE4B.ED736240
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Ruth M&nbsp;An=
derson's, "Hispanic Costume 1480-1530" is a little early, but jammed pack=
ed with much information.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Also, if I am reme=
mbering my Spain/Italy (modern usage for geographic purposes) political c=
limate, there were alliances, marriages, etc., there may be quite a bit o=
f information via some italian sources.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>The =
reason I like Hispanic Costume, even though my persona is italian ren, ab=
out the same period as you, is because you get an *extensive* history of =
who did what, when and why that impacts many things.&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nb=
sp;</DIV> <DIV>You might want to read some biographies on some of the Pop=
es, some of them either were from Spain or retained 'Staff' (what's the w=
ord I want??? Household?) that retained their Spanish customs and or atti=
re.&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I'm sorry I can't really give you=
 more titles, since a majority of my books are in storage (Aaahhhhgrrrr!!=
!), this may get you started.&nbsp; Fred has&nbsp;the&nbsp;Hispanic Costu=
me book&nbsp;listed in his little catalog.&nbsp; His email is <A href=3D"=
mailto:fsbks@msn.org">fsbks@msn.org</A></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gee,=
 I hope this helped!!</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"=
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #00=
0000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><BR>I'm new to the list. I am actively=
 involved in Art of Costuming, within the<BR>SCA, and am currently doing =
some research.<BR><BR>I maintain a spanish persona, roughly around 1515 -=
 1600 (which is the<BR>period that I dress). By any chance does anyone kn=
ow of some decent Spanish<BR>fashion research that would perhaps aid me i=
n the right direction? I'm<BR>finding this a bit frustrating, for I am fi=
nding mostly English costume<BR>research. Though I know English fashions =
were sometimes inspired by Spanish.<BR><BR><BR>Any assistance is helpful.=
<BR><BR><BR><BR>Isabella<BR>"The One in search of a vision"<BR><BR></BLOC=
KQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_001_0002_01C1DE4B.ED736240--
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to the list with a question
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:09:45 -0500
Status: RO

Welcome!

Have you checked out Juan Alcega's book of patterns? It is a book from a
Spanish tailor (1580ish if I remember correctly) that at least gives the
shapes of the pattern pieces for various pieces of clothing. You might want
to try and get ahold of a copy.

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************
>
> I maintain a spanish persona, roughly around 1515 - 1600 (which is the
> period that I dress). By any chance does anyone know of some decent
Spanish
> fashion research that would perhaps aid me in the right direction? I'm
> finding this a bit frustrating, for I am finding mostly English costume
> research. Though I know English fashions were sometimes inspired by
Spanish.

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century Italian costuming
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 22:04:27 -0500
Status: RO

There is also a Yahoo groups for Italian personas you might want to try and 
track down.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:00 PM 4/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Try the SCA-Garb list at Yahoo! groups.  I was on it for a short while, 
>but couldn't keep up with the nearly 50 messages a day.  It's a very 
>active list, but from what I saw, rarely does it stray off-topic. When I 
>was on it (6 months ago?), there were several ladies doing Italian. (Not 
>particularly my period of interest, so I didn't pay much attention to what 
>period.)
>
>Perhaps you could join, but with your preferences set to no-mail, and just 
>browse the archives to find info/people with your interests.
>  Parsla
>
>>From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
>>
>>
>>Hello all,
>>
>>I'm busily researching away on 14th century Italian ladies costuming and
>>I was wondering if there are others out there on the list that are also
>>researching this topic.  I would love to find a few others to chat with
>>(offline) about sources, fabrics, what's working, and what's not.
>>
>>Best regards,
>>
>>Colleen

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 17:26:18 +1200
Status: RO

> My research shows that armseyes were much much tighter than today and a
very
> snug armseye will hold up a sleeve. Plus I think those big brocade fabrics
> were much lighter silks than the upholstery brocades one might use today.

Just because I don't intend debating the dress in question.. just me and in
no way impuning anyone who does;)

Anyway, this type of nearly off the shoulder arrangement appears also in
german garb, which is one of my big passions, and people have engineered
their recreations to get that effct.. but with difficulty.

In  latter Elizabethan dress is that the front does not necessarily look the
same as the back. I mean if you have a high back that takes most of the
weight/strain of the sleeves. In Period Costumes for the Stage and Screen
the bodices have a v neck arrangement in back which works well for my 1/4
scale doll. And having only really seen one back of an English costume from
the 16thC (Holbein), which has this higher v neck arrangement, it is at
least a viable option. And with Hunniset most likely using that arrangement
in her BBC work, it is likely that it works on a full size replica.
Blackadder II has very high back necklines to support the ruffs and sleeves
of the female characters too, but they are very high indeed.

And of course the inner structure of the top of the sleeve might help too.

And then of course the original supposition that the artist was improving on
what was really there is more than possible, and likely to whatever degree
seems feasible.

michaela

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dictionary definition...(Was: Museum Replica)
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 12:44:56 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > I would not be surprised to discover that some people use
> > "replica"=20 in a non-technical sense to mean "inspired by the style
> > of...."
> 
> Nonsense! Here's the dictionary definition....nothing "technical"
> about it.

<sigh>  Unfortunately, just because it's defined that way in the 
dictionary doesn't mean that it is the way it is meant in current 
usage...  just that the current usage hasn't been happing often 
enough for the dictionary definition to have been changed.  Many 
people adopt words/terms into their vocabulary because they have 
encountered them when other people use them - and they apply 
them in the same way (or similar ways, that's how meanings drift) 
to the way they have seen/heard them used...  they never bother 
looking up the dictionary definition because they assume the 
"common" meaning of it that they have picked up from the context it 
was used in is the actual definition/meaning of the term and that 
they, in turn, are usuing it correctly.

Which is way too wordy a way of saying, language and use of 
terminology evolves and changes quicker than dictionary definitions 
do.

Teddy
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 10:10:45 EDT
Status: RO

Could someone please tell me how to unsubscribe?

Thank You,

Pasha
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 10:35:53 -0400
Status: RO

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> 
> There is also a Yahoo groups for Italian personas you might want to try and
> track down.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle

It is called ItalianPersona (go figure <grin>). Lots of great folks,
good info, especially on costuming.

--Jessica
(now known in the SCA as Giuliana Salviati)
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 15:43:01 +0100
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Click on the link at the bottom and scroll right down the page!

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> Mayfair13a@aol.com 04/08/02 03:10pm >>>
Could someone please tell me how to unsubscribe?

Thank You,

Pasha
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Subject: [h-cost] Outlands Costume Collegium - a great event
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 10:05:56 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings Costumers!

The fifth Outlands Costume Collegium (held in Trinidad, Colorado) is now
history, and all you folks who weren't there missed a fine event.

I wish to heap praise and thanks upon the following people for their
hard work and stellar results:

Kuroteria Eirene Tzmiskina Kontostephanina (mka Melanie Unruh-Bays) for
scheduling the classes, and for doing the Proceedings. There are copies
of the Proceedings available from her, both in hard copy and on CD.
Email Eirene at <maredudd@caerthe.org> for more information.

THL Arwen Southernwood (mka Sheila McClune) for the GREAT eats.
Participants at Costume Collegium were treated to breakfast and lunch
both days and a wonderful reception on Saturday night. THL Arwen did
most of the cooking herself, ably assisted by THL Rivka (mka Michelle
Brothers). The food was so good, there were hardly any leftovers!

Maestra Beatricia Caramela Mercante (mka Linda Haffner) for organizing a
fine exhibit of clothing and accessories. I also want to thank each and
every one of the people who went through the hassle of transporting and
setting up and breaking down and transporting stuff for this exhibit.
The area was so crammed that we spilled down off the stage onto the
floor space in the Little Theater. GOOD JOB!

Lady Kiara Loftus (mka Therese Hofheins-Losh) for (once again)
performing like a champ as Crisis Manager. As with any event, there were
things that we just couldn't fix, but those that COULD get fixed were
done ably, quietly and efficiently by Lady Kiara. No one should run any
kind of event without a Crisis Manager (aka a S***-o-crat), and she is
the best. She fixes things before you know they are broke!

Our teachers from out of Kingdom:

Special Guest Robin Netherton. Robin came from St. Louis to present 3
different papers and slide shows that were guaranteed to cause us to
look at reproducing clothing from the Middle Ages in a entirely
different light. She did this with wit and charm, and we all came away
with a new perspective. I want the Outlands to know that Robin helped
Costume Collegium greatly with her flexibility and grace under pressure.
If ever any of you see an event with Robin Netherton on the bill - be there.

Lord Diarmaid O'Duinn and Mistress Dunstana Talana the Violet (mka Marc
and Jennifer Carlson). These folks drove from Tulsa to present classes
and to brighten our event with their wit and grace. I only heard one
complaint (the same complaint from several sources) - Dairmaid's class
wasn't LONG enough! Well, we can fix THAT if/when we get them back here
from Ansteorra.

Mistress Katrei Grunenberg (mka Marcia Schlemm) flew from Kansas City to
teach block patterning and to participate in the Walk Through History as
ONLY SHE can! For those who wondered why Katrei and I missed our own
party Saturday evening - Katrei tripped and fell, breaking a bone in her
hand. So she and I got to spend an evening in fine conversation at the
local ER, but we missed Arwen's treats so we ended up at my house having
turkey soup with bow-tie macaroni. Howwzat for a period dinner!

THLady Rouge Du Mauier (mka Linette Barnes) and her husband Tom drove
from Caid to teach and to sell their FABULOUS trims and supplies for
metal thread embroidery. I am thrilled to report that her class was VERY
well attended and that at break times the crowd around the sales tables
was sometimes 3 deep! We hope to invite THL Rouge back soon for more
lessons in metal thread embroidery.

Of course, guest speakers alone do not an event make, so high praise and
thanks go to each and every one of the Outlanders who so graciously
shared their knowledge and skills with us at Outlands Costume Collegium.
My special thanks go to those instructors (and you know who you are) who
stepped in on a moments notice to fill a gap.

And to every single one of the folks who showed off their duds in the
Walk Through History - you were stunning! Did you notice you were being
video taped?

Finally, my very personal thanks go to Their Excellencies Baron Kerold
Hoegaarden, Baroness Chiara della Luna from Caerthe (Denver) and
Baroness Fermina Caballo from Al-Barran (Albuquerque) for their memorial
comments about Mistress Kiriel.

So all in all, my thanks go out to everyone who attended the fifth
Outlands Costume Collegium, whether they helped run it, or just sat back
and enjoyed the ride.

On to NEXT year!

YIS,
Lady Marged Tylluan Fach
mka Mary Denise Smith

PS: Special thanks to the "guys" who took the challenge to discuss "When
Men Do Costume".
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 14:32:35 +0100
Status: RO

Mike, the cap worn with a forehead cloth is a coif. A caul is a baglike headdress, often worn at the back of the head with the hair inside it. 

Sheila, Drea's site says that they could be made of any fancy material, presumably of any colour, as well as plain linen. I think of them as typically displaying a network design, so interwoven ribbon would look good.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mikes@dandy.net 04/05/02 05:33am >>>
Hi, Sheila. I haven't been over to Drea's for a while now. What piece of
headgear is the caul again? If you are referring to either a cap and/or
forehead cloth, there are many extant ones out there with polychrome
embroidery, metallic lace and spangles. I couldn't speak for either
ribbon or beads, as I can't remember ever seeing either an extant one or
one from a painting, etc.  

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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 08:56:30 -0600
Status: RO

Answered privately.
--sue

Mayfair13a@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Could someone please tell me how to unsubscribe?
> 
> Thank You,
> 
> Pasha
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 11:39:00 -0500
Status: RO

Has it been exceptionally slow, I have not received any digest since saturday.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 19:32:09 -0600
Status: RO

No one's perfect, Lalah, not even on this list <g>.  However, a lot of
people are quite knowledgable, and there is nothing wrong with that.  I
happened to think the dress was very pretty, and someone obviously went
to a LOT of work with it.  But a museum replica it was not, and 15th c.
it also was not, not in style, not in choice of fabrics (IIRC, it used
silk noile), not in the decoration.  Pretty, but NOT what was
advertised.
--Sue

LalahTT@aol.com wrote:
> 
>      God, it must be good to be so perfect!!!!!!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century Italian costuming
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 19:41:01 -0600
Status: RO

I'm on that list, as well as Colleen, and as far as I can recall,
without checking my stash of saved messages, all of the people posting
things about Italian clothing are doing things later than 14th c.
(mostly 15th, and some 16th).  I think I've actually seen more
concerning the 14th c. on _this_ list....<g>
--sue

Parsla Liepa wrote:
> 
> Try the SCA-Garb list at Yahoo! groups.  I was on it for a short while, but
> couldn't keep up with the nearly 50 messages a day.  It's a very active
> list, but from what I saw, rarely does it stray off-topic. When I was on it
> (6 months ago?), there were several ladies doing Italian. (Not particularly
> my period of interest, so I didn't pay much attention to what period.)
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 18:39:16 +0100
Status: RO

I skipped all the earlier debate, having no interest in eBay.  Obviously 
I missed something!

Anyway, I have made my early Tudor dress with this arrangement, a wide 
square neck at the front and a V at the back, with the sleeves  and 
armscye as tight as I could manage.  It works very well, and I never 
have to twitch the shoulders up.

(My original Tudor dress, made from an Oxfam party dress altered to have 
the V back, had to have a strap across the shoulders to stop it falling 
off. Made for very interesting sunburn)

Jean

michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote
>> My research shows that armseyes were much much tighter than today and a
>very
>> snug armseye will hold up a sleeve. Plus I think those big brocade fabrics
>> were much lighter silks than the upholstery brocades one might use today.
>
>Just because I don't intend debating the dress in question.. just me and in
>no way impuning anyone who does;)
>
>Anyway, this type of nearly off the shoulder arrangement appears also in
>german garb, which is one of my big passions, and people have engineered
>their recreations to get that effct.. but with difficulty.
>
>In  latter Elizabethan dress is that the front does not necessarily look the
>same as the back. I mean if you have a high back that takes most of the
>weight/strain of the sleeves. In Period Costumes for the Stage and Screen
>the bodices have a v neck arrangement in back which works well for my 1/4
>scale doll. And having only really seen one back of an English costume from
>the 16thC (Holbein), which has this higher v neck arrangement, it is at
>least a viable option. And with Hunniset most likely using that arrangement
>in her BBC work, it is likely that it works on a full size replica.
>Blackadder II has very high back necklines to support the ruffs and sleeves
>of the female characters too, but they are very high indeed.
>
>And of course the inner structure of the top of the sleeve might help too.
>
>And then of course the original supposition that the artist was improving on
>what was really there is more than possible, and likely to whatever degree
>seems feasible.
>
>michaela
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dictionary definition...(Was: Museum Replica)
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 18:29:42 -0400
Status: RO

For instance, when I was 18, I knew people who said anyone not seeing their
view or agreeing completely with them was "ignorant".  When I asked what
they thought it meant, I was informed it meant "disagreeable".  I can only
presume so many people told them they were ignorant of certain things over
the years, they figured that was what it meant. ;-p
Moira

> <sigh>  Unfortunately, just because it's defined that way in the
> dictionary doesn't mean that it is the way it is meant in current
> usage...  just that the current usage hasn't been happing often
> enough for the dictionary definition to have been changed.  Many
> people adopt words/terms into their vocabulary because they have
> encountered them when other people use them - and they apply
> them in the same way (or similar ways, that's how meanings drift)
> to the way they have seen/heard them used...  they never bother
> looking up the dictionary definition because they assume the
> "common" meaning of it that they have picked up from the context it
> was used in is the actual definition/meaning of the term and that
> they, in turn, are usuing it correctly.
>
> Which is way too wordy a way of saying, language and use of
> terminology evolves and changes quicker than dictionary definitions
> do.
>
> Teddy


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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:05:38 -0400
Status: RO

At 12:20 AM 4/7/02 EST, you wrote:
><< I wrote the seller and asked if she might have written the 15th 
> century when she meant 16th.  She wrote back that it was an error and the 
> gown is supposed to be 16th century. >>

        This is a VERY common problem on Ebay.  I know as I often  do my
searches by century.  Frankly a lot of people do not know how that works.  I
often often seen strange descriptions as well.  Figureens dressed in
Georgian costume referred to as Elizabethan.  Items described as being made
in the 1920s also being described as "Victorian".  My favorite of the second
example was a silk flapper style dress.  You couldn't even claim that she
meant "Victorian" styled!

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dictionary definition...(Was: Museum Replica)
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:12:30 EDT
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In a message dated 4/8/2002 6:40:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net writes:


> Which is way too wordy a way of saying, language and use of
> > terminology evolves and changes quicker than dictionary definitions
> > do.
> >
> > Teddy
> 

I agree with your post. You are correct. But I don't know anyone who uses the 
word "Replica" to mean something sorta like the original. It still, for most 
people, means what it means. At least around here.

Oh well, I'm not responsible for words being misused. The meaning of words is 
important. Not their sorta close meanings but the ideas they actually convey. 
Of course our so called president doesn't even know or care about the 
subtleties of language and he's in a profession where this is paramount. Why 
should anybody else care if their speech is sloppy? Alas!

--part1_12f.f7c12c0.29e38bee_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/8/2002 6:40:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Which is way too wordy a way of saying, language and use of
<BR>&gt; terminology evolves and changes quicker than dictionary definitions
<BR>&gt; do.
<BR>&gt;
<BR>&gt; Teddy
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I agree with your post. You are correct. But I don't know anyone who uses the word "Replica" to mean something sorta like the original. It still, for most people, means what it means. At least around here.
<BR>
<BR>Oh well, I'm not responsible for words being misused. The meaning of words is important. Not their sorta close meanings but the ideas they actually convey. Of course our so called president doesn't even know or care about the subtleties of language and he's in a profession where this is paramount. Why should anybody else care if their speech is sloppy? Alas!</FONT></HTML>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dictionary definition...(Was: Museum Replica)
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 21:19:32 -0400
Status: RO

At 08:12 PM 4/8/02 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 4/8/2002 6:40:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net writes:
>
>
>> Which is way too wordy a way of saying, language and use of
>> > terminology evolves and changes quicker than dictionary definitions
>> > do.
>> >
>> > Teddy
>> 
>
>I agree with your post. You are correct. But I don't know anyone who uses the 
>word "Replica" to mean something sorta like the original. It still, for most 
>people, means what it means. At least around here.

        I will take this farther.  It is not just the word"replica" that was
used, but the phrase "Museum Replica".  That implies that it is a replica
worthy of a museum.  The seller takes this further by stating that it was
made by a curator.  No, it seems obvious to me that the seller either
believes this to be authentic, or wants the buyer to believe it.  

        Buying from EBAY is just like buying from antique stores.  Sometimes
the sellers are knowledgable, sometimes they are not.  Sometimes those who
are not care, and want to learn, sometimes they do not.  Sometimes they are
fully aware,. and just trying to make a sale.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr  9 13:12:48 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 16th Century Spanish
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:04:50 EDT
Status: RO

Isabella,

<< I maintain a spanish persona, roughly around 1515 - 1600 (which is the 
 period that I dress). By any chance does anyone know of some decent Spanish 
 fashion research that would perhaps aid me in the right direction? I'm 
 finding this a bit frustrating, for I am finding mostly English costume 
 research. Though I know English fashions were sometimes inspired by 
Spanish.>>

I can tell you what Elizabethan English called "Spanish" (spanyssh) at that 
time:

conical farthingales (hoopslips)
blackwork embroidery
high-collared dresses with a bodice shaped like a male doublet
great sleeves -- essentially bell sleeves slit open along the top of the arm 
and caught by a fastener at the wrist

I expect that some of those elements will be appropriate for your garb.  As 
for pics, try:

1)  Princess of Spain in a doublet-bodiced gown.

http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1599_1.shtml

2)  The Princes of Spain in a doublet-bodiced gown with great sleeves, worn 
over a farthingale.  (The shape of the skirt implies the hoops underneath.)

http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1580_1.shtml      

Happy researching!
Gillian Tedcastle the Elizabethan
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr  9 13:31:12 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 19:39:55 +0200
Status: RO

Dear List
I am embroidering my waistcoat now, but by accident i got some stains
from my iron on it. It is because the steam choked out some water with a
lot of chalk in it, you know it is because my iron uses tap water......
I know, i should have used demineralised water, but, is there a way i
could remove those stains?
They are not bad, but when you se them on the silk, the stains are dull.

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Outlands Costume Collegium - a great event
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 13:49:01 -0500
Status: RO

>From: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>
>The fifth Outlands Costume Collegium (held in Trinidad, Colorado) is >now 
>history, and all you folks who weren't there missed a fine event.

I'd agree.

>Lord Diarmaid O'Duinn and Mistress Dunstana Talana the Violet (mka >Marc 
>and Jennifer Carlson). These folks drove from Tulsa to present classes and 
>to brighten our event with their wit and grace.

What, it's only a 1000 mile round trip :)

>I only heard one complaint (the same complaint from several sources) - 
>Dairmaid's class wasn't LONG enough! Well, we can fix THAT if/when we get 
>them back here from Ansteorra.

Which class?  There -really- isn't that much you can say about 3-fingered 
gloves except here's how you make the pattern and go ye forth and sew.

The shoe class went over the 2 hour limit as it was (I can do that for a lot 
longer (I start to run down at 8 hours), but as it was half the class was 
crashing with information overload).

>Walk Through History - you were stunning! Did you notice you were >being 
>video taped?

The actual reason I -didn't- take part.

Honestly, it was a great time, I learned a lot when I wasn't teaching, and 
the scenery between Amarillo and Trinidad made that part of the trip easy 
(the 300 miles of pouring rain and thunderstorms between Amarillo and Tulsa 
I could have done with out -- I know Mary - not your department :) ).

Marc

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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 11:59:02 -0500
Status: RO

Has it been exceptionally slow, I have not received any digest since saturday.
-- 
Linda Thompson

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
what was the last one you received?  I still have #841-845 (4/5 - 4/8) that I can send you, let me know off-list.

Catherine
ckinsey@kumc.edu

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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 22:16:27 +0100
Status: RO

Jean wrote:

> Anyway, I have made my early Tudor dress with this arrangement, a
wide
> square neck at the front and a V at the back, with the sleeves  and
> armscye as tight as I could manage.  It works very well, and I never
> have to twitch the shoulders up.

As I noted a while back, in Aileen Ribeiro's "Gallery of Fashion"on
page 34 she states that "the
jewelled "square" holding the neckline in place prevents the heavy
sleeves
from slipping off the shoulders".

I do wonder whether the very tight sleeves and armscye are a 21st
century way of keeping the sleeves where you want them, rather than a
16th century method...

best wishes
Stevie

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Outlands Costume Collegium - a great event
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:57:39 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


Mary Denise wrote:
> >The fifth Outlands Costume Collegium (held in Trinidad, Colorado) is >now 
> >history, and all you folks who weren't there missed a fine event.

Mark added:
> I'd agree.

Me three. The event planners did a great job, and the participants were
enthusiastic. Mary Denise makes an excellent dress dummy and almost
exactly fits my 15-year-old fitted gowns. I happily talked my throat out,
in more than four hours of prepared presentations plus lots of informal
discussion. I also managed to sneak in an hour or two of socializing with
Marc and his lovely wife.

And I just heard that the same bunch o' people won the bid for the SCA's
2003 Known World Costume Symposium, to be in October in Denver. Should be
a blast ;-)

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 13:41:20 -0400
Status: RO

Hello,

I have a friend (who is not on this list) who is looking for information
on Swiss clothing (Geneva) in the early to mid-16th century. I've never
run across any sources, but I've never really looked. Any help would be
appreciated.

Oh, she reads French and German as well, if that helps.

Thanks!
--Jessica
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Subject: [h-cost] "Tudor" dress sleeves (was: Re: impossible sleeves)
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 20:18:38
Status: RO

When I made my "Tudor" (it's more relaxed than a lot of the English dresses, 
so we joked about it being "Continental") I used a high back neckline and we 
put the shoulder seam a bit closer to the neck than we originally planned. 
Took us four tries with the sleeves to get it there, but it works.

http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=46153+0+none

It doesn't ride quite so high on the neck, and the armscye isn't quite so 
close to the neck, but that's closer to what I did than a V-back.

Mary/Katerine
(my second version of the dress is close to that color too)

>Jean wrote:
>
> > Anyway, I have made my early Tudor dress with this arrangement, a
>wide
> > square neck at the front and a V at the back, with the sleeves  and
> > armscye as tight as I could manage.  It works very well, and I never
> > have to twitch the shoulders up.
>
>As I noted a while back, in Aileen Ribeiro's "Gallery of Fashion"on
>page 34 she states that "the
>jewelled "square" holding the neckline in place prevents the heavy
>sleeves
>from slipping off the shoulders".
>
>I do wonder whether the very tight sleeves and armscye are a 21st
>century way of keeping the sleeves where you want them, rather than a
>16th century method...
>
>best wishes
>Stevie
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:49:00 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_b4.9a2f232.29e4919c_boundary
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In a message dated 4/9/2002 1:24:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:


> I do wonder whether the very tight sleeves and armscye are a 21st
> century way of keeping the sleeves where you want them, rather than a
> 16th century method...
>=20

Well, I think it's quite in keeping with what appears to be a good fit in th=
e=20
period. They want everything tight and smooth and controlled. Also, a dress=20
with such sleeves and accessorized with a jeweled d=E9colletage is not a dre=
ss=20
in which much activity is going to be attempted. Indeed, such a garment=20
proudly announces that you don't do anything! A tight armseye would be no=20
problamo.

--part1_b4.9a2f232.29e4919c_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3D3=
>In a message dated 4/9/2002 1:24:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, stevie.gamble=
@btinternet.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I do wonder whether the ver=
y tight sleeves and armscye are a 21st
<BR>century way of keeping the sleeves where you want them, rather than a
<BR>16th century method...
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Well, I think it's quite in keeping with what appears to be a good fit i=
n the period. They want everything tight and smooth and controlled. Also, a=20=
dress with such sleeves and accessorized with a jeweled d=E9colletage is not=
 a dress in which much activity is going to be attempted. Indeed, such a gar=
ment proudly announces that you don't do anything! A tight armseye would be=20=
no problamo.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:51:27 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_199.50a62fc.29e4922f_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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"Angels and Insects" is on DVD now [came out in March] and is quite 
inexpensive at DeepDiscountDVD.com. Something like $14.

--part1_199.50a62fc.29e4922f_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>"Angels and Insects" is on DVD now [came out in March] and is quite inexpensive at DeepDiscountDVD.com. Something like $14.</FONT></HTML>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Kalamazoo announcement
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 17:26:57 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


The International Congress on Medieval Studies, the world's largest
interdisciplinary gathering of medieval scholars, will be May 2-5, 2002 in
Kalamazoo, Michigan.

I help organize a track of sessions on dress and textiles at each year's
conference under the umbrella of DISTAFF, a group that exists purely for
the purpose of organizing such sessions at Kalamazoo. I just sent the
DISTAFF list my annual announcement listing costume-related sessions for
this year's Congress. Anyone who is planning on coming to the Congress and
would like to see this mailing should email me directly for a copy.

This year's sessions include several h-cost regulars as speakers: Susan
Carroll-Clark, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, Heather Rose Jones, and Chris
Laning.

Anyone who wants to know more about Kalamazoo should browse the website at
<http://www.wmich.edu//medieval> and follow the links to the program for
the 37th Congress.

You are welcome to pass this notice on to other relevant lists (e.g.
SCA-garb, SCA-Universitas) if you think it would be of interest.

--Robin

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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum Replica 15th Century Gown on eBay
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:14:28 -0400
Status: RO

At 09:58 AM 4/6/02 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>      I wrote the seller and asked if she might have written the 15th 
>> century when she meant 16th.  She wrote back that it was an error and the 
>> gown is supposed to be 16th century.
>
>The seller thinks it's *supposed to be* 16th century, so we know historical 
>costume is not her field.  Which means the seller is telling us what she 
>was told by the museum curator/dressmaker, or what the actual owner told 
>her the curator/dressmaker said, and she's selling the dress for the 
>owner.  We can deduce that this curator/dressmaker isn't the curator of a 
>costume museum.  (For all we know they are the curator of a car 
>museum.)  So the mis-information starts there, and the seller/owner doesn't 
>have the background knowledge not to believe what someone told them.
>
        They may not even be a curator in the normal sense of the word.  In
many museums "curator" is a pay grade so many different administration types
might be called "curators" who are not responsible for any sort of artifact.
Many mueseums have a Curator of Interpretation position who is the
supervisor of the interpreters.

I remain,
Ron Carnegie
Managing Interpreter, Historic Events (as an example of a silly job title)

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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 22:49:00 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. Thanks, Kate, I couldn't get a mental on it there. I have seen existing hair nets from a number of periods, and they are usually in some sort of silk or other fine stuff. I will have to find my way over to Drea's to
see what pictures she has of them.  Mike T.



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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 15:26:56 +0200
Status: RO



-Only testing, sorry, but it is so quiet here, is the line dead?

Bjarne


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 17:18:34 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

>         This is a VERY common problem on Ebay.  I know as I often  do my
> searches by century.  Frankly a lot of people do not know how that works.
I
> often often seen strange descriptions as well.  Figureens dressed in
> Georgian costume referred to as Elizabethan.  Items described as being
made
> in the 1920s also being described as "Victorian".  My favorite of the
second
> example was a silk flapper style dress.  You couldn't even claim that she
> meant "Victorian" styled!

I've been on the lookout for Victorian Bohemian garnet jewelry.  There's one
seller who keeps listing some pins set with garnets as "Victorian
Medieval"--and they're neither.

Not to mention the local Half-Price Books, where they insist on shelving the
pre-Raphaelites on the same shelf as the medieval art. (It was only recently
that someone changed it to "Medieval/Romantic".

Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:29:08 -0500
Status: RO

I don't know a whole lot - but in Patterns of Fashion there is a picture of
a "respectable lady from Geneva" (page 6 I think) from around 1560? 1580?
(I'm being lazy and not running to get my copy and look). Anyhow, any info
you get I'd love to see as well. I have this idea of having my persona's
family exiling themselves from England to Geneva during Mary I's reign...

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************




----- Original Message -----
From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 12:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing


> Hello,
>
> I have a friend (who is not on this list) who is looking for information
> on Swiss clothing (Geneva) in the early to mid-16th century. I've never
> run across any sources, but I've never really looked. Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Oh, she reads French and German as well, if that helps.
>
> Thanks!
> --Jessica
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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In a message dated 4/9/2002 2:52:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:


> There's one
> seller who keeps listing some pins set with garnets as "Victorian
> Medieval"--and they're neither.
> 
OK, what IS Victorian Medieval?  I love that. One has to be fairly creative 
to coin new eras as such.  How about Art Deco Goth? Or Italian Renn Viking?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
W. Shakespeare


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 4/9/2002 2:52:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">There's one<BR>
seller who keeps listing some pins set with garnets as "Victorian<BR>
Medieval"--and they're neither.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
OK, what IS Victorian Medieval?&nbsp; I love that. One has to be fairly creative to coin new eras as such.&nbsp; How about Art Deco Goth? Or Italian Renn Viking?<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"Do you not know I am a woman?.&nbsp; When I think, I must speak."<BR>
W. Shakespeare<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_149.c976a67.29e4bcf0_boundary--
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Patterns of Fashion -- page 6 -- figure 21: "Femina honest Genevensis:  dress 
of a respectable woman of Geneva, from Habitus Praecipuorum Populoram byh 
Hans Weigel and Just Amman, 1577."

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Patterns of Fashion -- page 6 -- figure 21: "Femina honest Genevensis: &nbsp;dress of a respectable woman of Geneva, from Habitus Praecipuorum Populoram byh Hans Weigel and Just Amman, 1577."
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr  9 19:38:35 2002
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stains on waistcoat
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 17:21:25 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


If the stains really are chalk or calcium carbonate (which is very likely)
then a weak acid like vinegar may help.  Try the vinegar on a scrap first, of
course, so you don't just make a bigger stain.

Emma

> Dear List
> I am embroidering my waistcoat now, but by accident i got some stains
> from my iron on it. It is because the steam choked out some water with a
> lot of chalk in it, you know it is because my iron uses tap water......
> I know, i should have used demineralised water, but, is there a way i
> could remove those stains?
> They are not bad, but when you se them on the silk, the stains are dull.
>
> Bjarne

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr  9 19:46:02 2002
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing
Organization: PII
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:27:41 -0700
Status: RO

How's about this:  Costume and Conduct In the Laws of Basel, Bern, and
Zurich  1370-1800.  I don't see an ISBN, but it was published by John
Hopkins Press for the first time in 1935.  Here are some pictures that I
posted a while back from the book.  It is a great source of pictures and
anectodal stuff.

http://www.saragrace.net/images/swiss_sunday_1679.JPG
http://www.saragrace.net/images/strassburg.gif
http://www.saragrace.net/images/swiss_hdrs_1679.jpg

And Oh yes that is a hat not her hair!!

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Jessica Wilbur
**Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 10:41 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing
**
**
**Hello,
**
**I have a friend (who is not on this list) who is looking for 
**information on Swiss clothing (Geneva) in the early to 
**mid-16th century. I've never run across any sources, but I've 
**never really looked. Any help would be appreciated.
**
**Oh, she reads French and German as well, if that helps.
**
**Thanks!
**--Jessica
**_______________________________________________
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**

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Thanks Lalah!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of =
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: LalahTT@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 4:56 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing


  Patterns of Fashion -- page 6 -- figure 21: "Femina honest Genevensis: =
 dress of a respectable woman of Geneva, from Habitus Praecipuorum =
Populoram byh Hans Weigel and Just Amman, 1577."=20

  Lalah=20
  Never Give up, Never Surrender,=20
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -=20
  Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at=20
  http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html=20



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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks Lalah!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>**********************<BR>Rebecca =
Schmitt<BR>aka=20
Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of=20
Bristol,<BR>BRF FOF</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>So many books, so little =
time</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:lotsofteapots@charter.net">lotsofteapots@charter.net</A><B=
R>**********************<BR></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DLalahTT@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:LalahTT@aol.com">LalahTT@aol.com</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, April 09, 2002 =
4:56=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Looking =
for=20
  information on Swiss clothing</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>Patterns of =
Fashion --=20
  page 6 -- figure 21: "Femina honest Genevensis: &nbsp;dress of a =
respectable=20
  woman of Geneva, from Habitus Praecipuorum Populoram byh Hans Weigel =
and Just=20
  Amman, 1577." <BR><BR>Lalah <BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender, <BR>- =
- - - -=20
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - <BR>Looking for =
a great=20
  gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at=20
  <BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html=20
<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr  9 20:04:36 2002
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:15:45 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


> If the stains really are chalk or calcium carbonate (which is very likely)
> then a weak acid like vinegar may help.  Try the vinegar on a scrap first, of
> course, so you don't just make a bigger stain.

I was taught to use oxalic acid on rust stains.  It seems to remove the
stains better than vinegar.  Unfortunately, this is a bad head day for
me (woke up with the lopsided Picasso head).  I can't remember what 
concentration we used.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 16:08:58 -0700
Status: RO

>
> OK, what IS Victorian Medieval?  I love that. One has to be fairly
> creative to coin new eras as such.

Haven't seen the item, but to me the term "Victorian Medieval" evokes
the Aesthetic Movement.

Fran


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Subject: [h-cost] Tilke's books??; Was Mandarin jacket? (not quite on-topic)
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:33:47 -0700
Status: RO

I must have missed this somehow.  Could you point me to the original
message, or tell us again what book you are talking about?  Sounds
REALLY GOOD!!

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
**Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 1:09 PM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mandarin jacket? (not quite on-topic)
**
**
**
**>You think those piddling few plates online are great? You 
**really should 
**>check into buying it - I invested $125US last year and I have not 
**>regretted one penny of the amount!!! It is 'enshrined' along with my 
**>"Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd" and my 'SOup for the Qan" 
**>[translation and commentary on the oldest extant tretise of 
**>mongolian/chinese cooking]
**
**> > I can't BELIEVE this book is on line.  I feel I should 
**download the 
**> > whole thing QUICK before it goes away. Who says the 
**Internet ain't 
**> > great!
**
**(Assuming you're talking about Tilke's book) I've had mine 
**for several 
**years, and use it for historical, fantasy, science fiction, 
**mundane, and 
**fibre art garments.  I have his 'Costume Patterns and 
**Designs' and his 
**'Folk Art of Europe'.  I don't have his third one, all 
**re-drawings of folk 
**costumes on people, all shown tiny in crowded little rows.
**
**Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr  9 21:12:26 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1 Looking for information on Swiss clothing
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 16:41:25 -0700
Status: RO

Have her start by reading picture books abut the Protestant 
Reformation.  Any picture of a Reformer from Switzerland will be wearing 
Swiss costume, and there may be Swiss women pictured listening to him.

Also, Jost Amman did several pictures of regional dress, and there should 
be Swiss women pictured in one of his books.  (Dover likes to republish them.)

  Jessica Wilbur writes, in a message sent 01:41 PM 4/9/02 -0400:
>Hello,
>
>I have a friend (who is not on this list) who is looking for information
>on Swiss clothing (Geneva) in the early to mid-16th century. I've never
>run across any sources, but I've never really looked. Any help would be
>appreciated.
>
>Oh, she reads French and German as well, if that helps.
>
>Thanks!
>--Jessica
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 17:04:13 -0700
Status: RO


>>There's one
>>seller who keeps listing some pins set with garnets as "Victorian
>>Medieval"--and they're neither.
>
>OK, what IS Victorian Medieval?  I love that. One has to be fairly 
>creative to coin new eras as such.  How about Art Deco Goth? Or Italian 
>Renn Viking?

There was a period when the Victorians 'discovered' the Middle Ages, and 
there are a lot of pieces out there which are done in the style antique 
dealers may call 'Gothic Revival'.  These are Medieval-oid things which 
have the right look for SCA and most other Medieval/Renaissance 
venues.  And since Gothic Revival pieces are not as old as real Medieval 
pieces, they are in likely to be in usable condition (and only cost a small 
fortune, not an impossibly large one).  You can find jewelry, woven 
tapestries, furniture, ceramics, metalwork, and even old theatre costumes 
in this style.  Just don't confuse them with real Medieval, because they 
are stylistic hybrids produced to give a Medieval look.

The pre-Raphaelites did a lot of paintings of Medieval-oid subjects.  And 
some Victorian buildings, especially churches, were done in this style, 
sometimes called ' carpenter Gothic', complete with wooden ' corner stones' 
up the sides, and pointy arches.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 Looking for information on Swiss clothing
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 16:44:51 -0700
Status: RO


>I don't know a whole lot - but in Patterns of Fashion there is a picture of
>a "respectable lady from Geneva" (page 6 I think) from around 1560? 1580?
>(I'm being lazy and not running to get my copy and look). Anyhow, any info
>you get I'd love to see as well. I have this idea of having my persona's
>family exiling themselves from England to Geneva during Mary I's reign...

But wouldn't they be wearing English clothes?



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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 12:50:04 +1200
Status: RO

> I have a friend (who is not on this list) who is looking for information
> on Swiss clothing (Geneva) in the early to mid-16th century. I've never
> run across any sources, but I've never really looked. Any help would be
> appreciated.


Early to mid Swiaa is very German ren is style. A simpler line and very
graceful. Quite different to later period which is what has been so far
offered. Just as later 16C English is very diffeent to earlier 16thC and the
same with German.
Personally it's one of my favs:)

Just looking for some examples at my site (currently being completely
overhauled as it's gotten out of control;):
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image11.htm
Yellow with black bands
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image38.htm
Grey with black bands
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image43.htm
yellow with black bands
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image102.htm
red with black bands (get the theme here;) )
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image48.htm
Shot(?)red/grey with black bands
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image62.htm
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image70.htm
cream with blackwork bands (Anna Meyer)
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image47.htm
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image143.htm
Women of Basel by Holbein
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image77.htm
Thisbe by baldung
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image173.htm
Red with black bands
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image90.htm
grey with black bands and full upper sleeves
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image44.htm
I think manuel was a Swiss artist? Another of my many "need to dos"

All from:
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/othergerman.htm So others may know if there
are others there that are swiss, or if any actually aren't and if any link
is dead.

Off to download the rest of my site to fix all those dead links.. sigh. It
will remain as it is until I get it fully resolved btw. And if there is a
dead link let me know and I can patch that immediately.

michaela



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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tilke's books
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 17:52:59 -0700
Status: RO


>I must have missed this somehow.  Could you point me to the original
>message, or tell us again what book you are talking about?  Sounds
>REALLY GOOD!!

http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/

Aparently there are several editions of this one of Tilke's books.  The one 
I have in hard-cover has some plates this one doesn't, and this one has 
some my copy doesn't have.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 12:55:48 +1200
Status: RO

> I do wonder whether the very tight sleeves and armscye are a 21st
> century way of keeping the sleeves where you want them, rather than a
> 16th century method...


Well concidering loose armscyes is a later 20th C method of construction I
highly doubt it. Tight armscyes are seen continually in paintings prior to
the 16thC and in practically every garment up to and including the 20thC.

In fact it creates a better fit and allows more range of movement that the
deep armscyes seen in womens jackets/blouses espcially in the 1980s onwards.
I noticed this especially in my costumes which are constricting as period
correct but allowed me to at least lift my arms to shoulderheight without
pulling on the body, as compared to suit jackets or blaoses with more room
in the body but deeper armscyes.

Looking at extant patterns too shows the smaller armscye is period.

michaela


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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing (second send)
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 17:48:03 -0700
Status: RO

Not sure why, but one of my messages got posted, but not this one.  Here
it is again

**-----Original Message-----
**From: Saragrace knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net] 
**Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 3:28 PM
**To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
**Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing
**
**
**How's about this:  Costume and Conduct In the Laws of Basel, 
**Bern, and Zurich  1370-1800.  I don't see an ISBN, but it was 
**published by John Hopkins Press for the first time in 1935.  
**Here are some pictures that I posted a while back from the 
**book.  It is a great source of pictures and anectodal stuff.
**
**http://www.saragrace.net/images/swiss_sunday_1679.JPG
**http://www.saragrace.net/images/strassburg.gif
**http://www.saragrace.net/images/swiss_hdrs_1679.jpg
**
**And Oh yes that is a hat not her hair!!
**
****-----Original Message-----
****From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
****[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Jessica Wilbur
****Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 10:41 AM
****To: h-costume@indra.com
****Subject: [h-cost] Looking for information on Swiss clothing
****
****
****Hello,
****
****I have a friend (who is not on this list) who is looking for 
****information on Swiss clothing (Geneva) in the early to 
****mid-16th century. I've never run across any sources, but I've 
****never really looked. Any help would be appreciated.
****
****Oh, she reads French and German as well, if that helps.
****
****Thanks!
****--Jessica
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****
**

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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 19:06:47 -0600
Status: RO

Delayed, I think....I posted something on Sunday, and it didn't come
through until Tuesday afternoon....
--sue

Bjarne Drews wrote:
> 
> -Only testing, sorry, but it is so quiet here, is the line dead?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 Looking for information on Swiss clothing
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 20:32:44 -0500
Status: RO

Probably, but I also imagine that they would be somewhat influenced by what
Calvin thought would be proper for women to wear...? Does anyone know if
exiles would have picked up things like fashion while in Geneva, or would
they have "stuck to their own"?

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

> >I don't know a whole lot - but in Patterns of Fashion there is a picture
of
> >a "respectable lady from Geneva" (page 6 I think) from around 1560? 1580?
> >(I'm being lazy and not running to get my copy and look). Anyhow, any
info
> >you get I'd love to see as well. I have this idea of having my persona's
> >family exiling themselves from England to Geneva during Mary I's reign...
>
> But wouldn't they be wearing English clothes?
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Museum Replica... one last attempt at explaination
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 22:07:44 -0400
Status: RO

Ok... I promise... this is the third time I've tried to get this across, and I will not repeat myself again.

Folks (yes, I know some of you get it, but...)...

There is a COMPANY named "Museum Replicas".  Some of their non-clothing stuff isn't too bad (can't say all by a long shot, but...)

Their clothing on the other hand is purely romaticised, fantasied stuff based loosely on an idea of a time frame... *not* anything you'd see from a Museum from any of the time periods.  Now, to be fair, I haven't looked at *all* their clothing, but pretty much all of the supposedly medieval and renaissance stuff is, as I said, very much the worst of the "bodice-ripper cover
inspiration" stuff.

When someone is trying to sell their old stuff on EBay, it's very likely that whether they know it's not really period or not, they'll say that it is "Museum Replica" whatever... because it was bought from that company... not because it's something that was made as a replica of something in a museum somewhere.


Ok... said it that last time  (Sorry, but I love this group... and this particular thread has *really* been annoying me, since it keeps going around in circles, and the original gripe was because the title is misleading to anyone who doesn't know of the company and their mostly pretty (not all by a long shot) but unauthentic costumes)

Now dropping the subject entirely, unless someone feels a need to e-mail me off the list (can't imagine why).


Moving out of rant and rave mode...
-Elisabeth


>
> From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dictionary definition...(Was: Museum Replica)
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
> At 08:12 PM 4/8/02 EDT, you wrote:
> >In a message dated 4/8/2002 6:40:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net writes:
> >
> >
> >> Which is way too wordy a way of saying, language and use of
> >> > terminology evolves and changes quicker than dictionary definitions
> >> > do.
> >> >
> >> > Teddy
> >>
> >
> >I agree with your post. You are correct. But I don't know anyone who uses the
> >word "Replica" to mean something sorta like the original. It still, for most
> >people, means what it means. At least around here.
>
>         I will take this farther.  It is not just the word"replica" that was
> used, but the phrase "Museum Replica".  That implies that it is a replica
> worthy of a museum.  The seller takes this further by stating that it was
> made by a curator.  No, it seems obvious to me that the seller either
> believes this to be authentic, or wants the buyer to believe it.
>
>         Buying from EBAY is just like buying from antique stores.  Sometimes
> the sellers are knowledgable, sometimes they are not.  Sometimes those who
> are not care, and want to learn, sometimes they do not.  Sometimes they are
> fully aware,. and just trying to make a sale.

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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Outlands Costume Collegium - a great event
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 19:45:39 -0700
Status: RO

At 10:05 AM -0600 4/8/02, Mary Denise Smith wrote:
>
>The fifth Outlands Costume Collegium (held in Trinidad, Colorado) is now
>history, and all you folks who weren't there missed a fine event.
>
>I wish to heap praise and thanks upon the following people for their
>hard work and stellar results:
>
>Kuroteria Eirene Tzmiskina Kontostephanina (mka Melanie Unruh-Bays) for
>scheduling the classes, and for doing the Proceedings. There are copies
>of the Proceedings available from her, both in hard copy and on CD.
>Email Eirene at <maredudd@caerthe.org> for more information.

Eirene --

I, for one, would like information about getting a copy of the 
Proceedings, and if you like, I could post it to the H-Costume list 
to spare you a few questions.

(You KNOW what happens when someone posts on a mailing list that 
there's a handout or CD available!!! <grin>)

Thanks! Hope you got to listen to Robin Netherton yourself -- isn't 
she fantastic?
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    (Lady) Christian de Holacombe
|     Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
+    Shire of Windy Meads  -  Davis, California
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Museum Replica... one last attempt at
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 00:18:21 -0400
Status: RO

At 10:07 PM 4/9/02 -0400, you wrote:

>There is a COMPANY named "Museum Replicas".  Some of their non-clothing
stuff isn't too bad (can't say all by a long shot, but...)
>
>Their clothing on the other hand is purely romaticised, fantasied stuff
based loosely on an idea of a time frame... *not* anything you'd see from a
Museum from any of the time periods.  Now, to be fair, I haven't looked at
*all* their clothing, but pretty much all of the supposedly medieval and
renaissance stuff is, as I said, very much the worst of the "bodice-ripper cover
>inspiration" stuff.
>
>When someone is trying to sell their old stuff on EBay, it's very likely
that whether they know it's not really period or not, they'll say that it is
"Museum Replica" whatever... because it was bought from that company... not
because it's something that was made as a replica of something in a museum
somewhere.
>
>
>Ok... said it that last time  (Sorry, but I love this group... and this
particular thread has *really* been annoying me, since it keeps going around
in circles, and the original gripe was because the title is misleading to
anyone who doesn't know of the company and their mostly pretty (not all by a
long shot) but unauthentic costumes)
>
>

        There is a company called Museum Replicas, I get their catalogs and
have purchased from them.  A good friend used to supply them with jewelry.
That does not change the fact that "Museum Replica" and "Museum
Reproduction" are both standard phrases used by advertisers to imply
accuracy.  Just take a look at a random sampling of sutler's ads.  It is why
the company chose the name.  It also does not change the fact that the style
of dress in question IS NOT featured in their catalog (at least not the
online catalog), or that the seller stated it was made by a curator (not
purchased from a subsidary of Atlantic Cutlery).

Cheers,

Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 22:38:44 -0600
Status: RO

*When* in October 2003? I'd really like to attend....
--Sue, needing a costuming fix but *bad*.....<g>

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 

> And I just heard that the same bunch o' people won the bid for the SCA's
> 2003 Known World Costume Symposium, to be in October in Denver. Should be
> a blast ;-)
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Subject: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 01:41:10 -0400
Status: RO

First, I would like to say, the Queen Mum had a glorious life and will be
missed by the world.

I was watching the funeral of the Queen Mum today.  I was in awe of all the
beautiful hats the women were wearing.  All in black but so many different
styles.  I don't think I saw two alike hats alike.  So many were inspired by
various styles of the 20th Century.  I saw wide brims hats from the late
Edwardian period to teens.  Lots of these.  One of my sons passed through
the room, looked at the TV and said, "It looks like Titanic!"  One lady
looked like Jackie Kennedy with a pill box hat and Chanel dress.  Another
lady's hat looked like the late 1940s-early 50s.  The Queen's hat even
looked late Edwardian.  So are newly designed historically inspired hats in
Vogue in Europe or is the royalty of Europe wearing vintage?  I must also
say I loved the garnishment of feathers on the hats.

BTW, I also enjoyed all the different styles of military costumes.

I am so glad I have this event on video tape because of the history but also
the hat fashions.

I love the hats worn in London.  When I was there, five years ago, I was
following people around in Harrod's to get a better view of their hats.

I wish hats were wore more often in the U.S.  Hats seem to be worn here for
garden wear, sports, or beachwear.  Certain church congregations wear hats.
The black women in the Richmond VA area wear the most beautiful and stylish
hats to church.  A few women in our Catholic church wear hats, but not many.
I love to go out to eat after church to see the parade of hats.

While I am on the hat topic... I am in desperate need to find wide brimmed
summer hats with scarves sewn in them, like what Audrey Hepburn worn... to
tie around the neck.  From my many years as a teenage sun goddess, and
gardening, I have come up with sun damage to the skin on my neck.  So I need
to protect the area.  If anyone knows a place that sells them or makes them,
please let me know.  I need to sit by the pool and watch my kids in swim
competition all summer.   Plus my little flowers need my love and attention
too!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 10:19:05 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Penny.
Yes you are so right. It is a shame that it is not modern any more to wear hats.

But it is the custom for royalties to wear them at any events. Queen Margrethe
II is also wearing many different hats, and lately when our prince merried
Alexandra, she has taken up this habit to wear a hat for every okation.
Alexandra is from Hong Kong so i think she has her hats made there.
Alexandra also took up the fashion to wear small smart Chanel jackets. They
become her very well because she is a small person.

Bjarne

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> First, I would like to say, the Queen Mum had a glorious life and will be
> missed by the world.
>
> I was watching the funeral of the Queen Mum today.  I was in awe of all the
> beautiful hats the women were wearing.  All in black but so many different
> styles.  I don't think I saw two alike hats alike.  So many were inspired by
> various styles of the 20th Century.  I saw wide brims hats from the late
> Edwardian period to teens.  Lots of these.  One of my sons passed through
> the room, looked at the TV and said, "It looks like Titanic!"  One lady
> looked like Jackie Kennedy with a pill box hat and Chanel dress.  Another
> lady's hat looked like the late 1940s-early 50s.  The Queen's hat even
> looked late Edwardian.  So are newly designed historically inspired hats in
> Vogue in Europe or is the royalty of Europe wearing vintage?  I must also
> say I loved the garnishment of feathers on the hats.
>
> BTW, I also enjoyed all the different styles of military costumes.
>
> I am so glad I have this event on video tape because of the history but also
> the hat fashions.
>
> I love the hats worn in London.  When I was there, five years ago, I was
> following people around in Harrod's to get a better view of their hats.
>
> I wish hats were wore more often in the U.S.  Hats seem to be worn here for
> garden wear, sports, or beachwear.  Certain church congregations wear hats.
> The black women in the Richmond VA area wear the most beautiful and stylish
> hats to church.  A few women in our Catholic church wear hats, but not many.
> I love to go out to eat after church to see the parade of hats.
>
> While I am on the hat topic... I am in desperate need to find wide brimmed
> summer hats with scarves sewn in them, like what Audrey Hepburn worn... to
> tie around the neck.  From my many years as a teenage sun goddess, and
> gardening, I have come up with sun damage to the skin on my neck.  So I need
> to protect the area.  If anyone knows a place that sells them or makes them,
> please let me know.  I need to sit by the pool and watch my kids in swim
> competition all summer.   Plus my little flowers need my love and attention
> too!
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
>
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--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] : impossible sleeves was
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:50:01 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I do wonder whether the very tight sleeves and armscye are a 21st
> century way of keeping the sleeves where you want them, rather
> than a 16th century method... 

Hi Stevie,

It may have been doen that way by some and different ways by 
others - very little seems to have been "standardises" as the "one 
true way" of making things.... (is it ever?)... certainly some pictures 
show what seem to be extremely tigth upper sleeves on Tudor era 
gowns...  I know one person who got the right look and fit making 
hers very tight around the upper arm and shoulder.  When 
someone else tried on the outfit it fit fine except her hands turned 
blue because the upper sleeves were so tight..<G>


Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:34:32 +0200
Status: RO

Hi.
My two cents to this is also that i always thinks of Richard Wagner and his
opera's when i think of Victorian Medieval costumes.

Bjarne

Teddy wrote:

> > > There's one
> > > seller who keeps listing some pins set with garnets as "Victorian
> > > Medieval"--and they're neither.
> > >
> > OK, what IS Victorian Medieval?  I love that.
>
> That's easy - in costuming terms it pretty much boils down to
> making a costume in the stule of the Victorians' ideas of what a
> MEdieval outfit would have looked like (there are plenty of examples
> in Victorian paintings and illustrations).  By the smae token,
> "Victorian Renaissance" would pretty much boil down to the
> pseudo ren outfits so often seen in pre-raphelite style pictures.... etc
>
> > One has to be fairly creative to coin new eras as such.  How about
> > Art Deco Goth? Or Italian Renn Viking?
>
> Italin-Ren Viking *really* appeals - I can picture some lovely fantasy
> outfits that would fall into that category
>
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 10:33:35 +0100
Status: RO

I work afternoon/evening on Tuesdays, so I was able to watch the funeral live. I too noticed the frequency of large-crowned hats like those made to fit over the big Edwardian hairstyles. I suppose the modern ones must have a padded lining to stop them coming down over the wearer's eyes.
Smart hats are not worn much in the UK either, at least outside London, though  I too have noticed that the ladies of black churches favour elegant ones. Being short with a large head, I seldom wear a hat except for reenactment (and occasionally sun protection).


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 10:01:39 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > There's one
> > seller who keeps listing some pins set with garnets as "Victorian
> > Medieval"--and they're neither.
> > 
> OK, what IS Victorian Medieval?  I love that.

That's easy - in costuming terms it pretty much boils down to 
making a costume in the stule of the Victorians' ideas of what a 
MEdieval outfit would have looked like (there are plenty of examples 
in Victorian paintings and illustrations).  By the smae token,  
"Victorian Renaissance" would pretty much boil down to the 
pseudo ren outfits so often seen in pre-raphelite style pictures.... etc

> One has to be fairly creative to coin new eras as such.  How about
> Art Deco Goth? Or Italian Renn Viking? 

Italin-Ren Viking *really* appeals - I can picture some lovely fantasy 
outfits that would fall into that category





Teddy
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 13:03:51 +0100
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:

>very little seems to have been "standardises" as the "one
> true way" of making things.... (is it ever?)...

we are in absolute agreement on this...

>certainly some pictures
> show what seem to be extremely tigth upper sleeves on Tudor era
> gowns...

Indeed, though the square of jewels is present in all the portraits
that I have found of that  fashion. Take a look at the portrait of
Elizabeth as princess
(http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth%20I%20P.jpg)

or the series of Henry's later wives. Bearing in mind the huge weight
of the fabrics used, and the fur linings,  I doubt that anything short
of metal would hold that lot up. I think it's akin to wearing a mail
shirt, in terms of weight, and the square enables that weight to be
distributed over the shoulders.  I can imagine a woman wanting the
look but lacking the dosh for the real thing trying to use cheaper,
lighter fabrics, and the tight fit would presumably work, but it's not
in the evidence that we have.


>I know one person who got the right look and fit making
> hers very tight around the upper arm and shoulder.  When
> someone else tried on the outfit it fit fine except her hands turned
> blue because the upper sleeves were so tight..<G>

Quite so; I can't imagine that going down too well with the Tudors...

best wishes
Stevie

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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 13:17:27 +0100
Status: RO

Albert Cat wrote:

>> I do wonder whether the very tight sleeves and armscye are a 21st
>> century way of keeping the sleeves where you want them, rather than
a
>> 16th century method...


>Well, I think it's quite in keeping with what appears to be a good
fit in the
>period. They want everything tight and smooth and controlled.

But that isn't the point at issue. The question is "how did they
achieve that look?"

>Also, a dress
>with such sleeves and accessorized with a jeweled décolletage

actually, the square of jewels wasn't an accessory, and decolletage
wasn't a feature of that style.

>is not a dress
>in which much activity is going to be attempted. Indeed, such a
garment
>proudly announces that you don't do anything!

But Tudor nobility did a very great deal.  If you take a look at
Elizabeth's daily programme you will realise that she worked at a rate
wholly unacceptable to modern ideas. The notion of the idle rich is
not relevant to 16th century England...

>A tight armseye would be no
>problamo.

Well, up to a point, Lord Copper...

best wishes
Stevie



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 10 10:17:58 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] pattern of Gustav III Wedding Dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:04:23 +0200
Status: RO

Hi. Sorry for the crossposting!

I just want to inform all you 18th.century freaks like me, that The
Royal Armory of Sweden, Livrustkammaren has published a pattern of the
Wedding Dress of Gustav III. It was made for him in Paris. You can buy
your copy of it from their website:
Jeanette Danielson
Enhetschef/Head of Department
Publika enheten/Public Department
Livrustkammaren/The Royal Armoury
Slottsbacken 3
S-111 30 Stockholm
Sweden
tel: +46(0)851955508
fax: +46(0)851955511
e-mail: jeanette.danielson@lsh.se
www.livrustkammaren.nu

The price for the pattern is a little pricey, 350 swedish kr. but it is
such an exquisite garment.
Now i know what i am going to make next time............

Bjarne
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Outlands Costume Collegium - a great event
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:43:22 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Tue, 9 Apr 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> *When* in October 2003? I'd really like to attend....
> --Sue, needing a costuming fix but *bad*.....<g>

I don't think the exact date is fixed yet. I certainly hope the event
planners will keep us informed!

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 10 11:22:04 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] KWCS in Denver - October 2003
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 08:21:12 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings List,

SCA costumers in Denver are pleased that we have been awarded the bid
for KWCS 2003. Our general date is October 2003. Note that this is 2003,
18 months away. We do not have a specific date yet, but expect to shortly.

As soon as we have useful details like a date, keynote speaker, a few
merchants to brag about and some specific exhibition info to announce,
we will post it to this and other relevant lists.

Please note that one does NOT have to be a member of the SCA to attend
this event.

See you there!

Mary Denise Smith
Special Guest and Merchant Co-ordinator
KWCS 2003
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 10:41:50 -0400
Status: RO

One problem here is the idea that One Size Fits All in women's hats! I 
have had a dreadful time getting hats to fit, because they seem designed 
to go over rather fluffy hair, and I not only have smooth hair, but I 
tend to wear it up, so I need a hat to sort of perch. And the really 
neat little hats designed for that are never worn, shall we say, in my 
culture? People around me just wear the ones with brims. They blow off, 
they interfere with my vision driving, I stopped wearing them...

I have a few vintage ones designed for it - maybe I need to go back to 
wearing them. Just uncovered a whole cache of my grandmother's hats! *G*

Anne

Penny Ladnier wrote:

>
>
>I wish hats were wore more often in the U.S.  Hats seem to be worn here for
>garden wear, sports, or beachwear.  Certain church congregations wear hats.
>The black women in the Richmond VA area wear the most beautiful and stylish
>hats to church.  A few women in our Catholic church wear hats, but not many.
>I love to go out to eat after church to see the parade of hats.
>


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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:50:21 EDT
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--part1_194.530874b.29e5b93d_boundary
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In a message dated 4/10/2002 8:30:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:


> <<the square of jewels wasn't an accessory,>>


If added to the dress, it is.

 <<and decolletage>>


Which merely means a low neckline...not specifically off the shoulder. So yes 
they did.


<<The notion of the idle rich is
not relevant to 16th century England...>>


Nonsense.

> 



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/10/2002 8:30:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&lt;&lt;the square of jewels wasn't an accessory,&gt;&gt;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>If added to the dress, it is.
<BR>
<BR> &lt;&lt;and decolletage&gt;&gt;
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Which merely means a low neckline...not specifically off the shoulder. So yes they did.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>&lt;&lt;The notion of the idle rich is
<BR>not relevant to 16th century England...&gt;&gt;
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Nonsense.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:28:09 -0700
Status: RO


> Indeed, though the square of jewels is present in all the portraits
> that I have found of that  fashion. Take a look at the portrait of
> Elizabeth as princess
> (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth%20I%20P.jpg)
> 
> or the series of Henry's later wives. Bearing in mind the huge weight
> of the fabrics used, and the fur linings,  I doubt that anything short
> of metal would hold that lot up. I think it's akin to wearing a mail
> shirt, in terms of weight, and the square enables that weight to be
> distributed over the shoulders.  I can imagine a woman wanting the
> look but lacking the dosh for the real thing trying to use cheaper,
> lighter fabrics, and the tight fit would presumably work, but it's not
> in the evidence that we have.

When I've done this type of gown, I always use a square neckline 
in front and a V in the back. It is for engineering purposes. A 
square neckline in the back doesn't help keep the shoulders up 
nearly as well unless it is very high.

I have found that the upper sleeve needs to be fairly tight, but it is 
for looks, not because of the engineering to keep it up. Also, I don't 
always stitch the area under the arm, but sometimes leave it open 
from front muscle point to rear muscle point. I started doing that 
when I discovered a portrait (sorry, I don't remember which one it 
was but it was something I found in a museum in London, possibly 
the National Gallery archives). (It is essentially the same as the 
middle eastern dancing costumes that leave it open rather than 
putting in a gusset.)

I've also been working on doing an earlier (circa 1509) with the 
square cut armscye. I have had no problems with the underdress 
(which has tight sleeves to the bottom) but the overdress with its 
belled sleeves don't seem to work as well. I know they did them 
(from tapestry evidence) but I haven't been able to get it to work yet.

 
> 
> >I know one person who got the right look and fit making
> > hers very tight around the upper arm and shoulder.  When
> > someone else tried on the outfit it fit fine except her hands turned
> > blue because the upper sleeves were so tight..<G>
> 
> Quite so; I can't imagine that going down too well with the Tudors...
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 10 14:41:25 2002
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:43:00 -0700
Status: RO

At 1:41 AM -0400 4/10/02, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>First, I would like to say, the Queen Mum had a glorious life and will be
>missed by the world.
>
>I was watching the funeral of the Queen Mum today.  I was in awe of all the
>beautiful hats the women were wearing.  All in black but so many different
>styles.  I don't think I saw two alike hats alike.  So many were inspired by
>various styles of the 20th Century.  I saw wide brims hats from the late
>Edwardian period to teens.  Lots of these.  One of my sons passed through
>the room, looked at the TV and said, "It looks like Titanic!"  One lady
>looked like Jackie Kennedy with a pill box hat and Chanel dress.  Another
>lady's hat looked like the late 1940s-early 50s.  The Queen's hat even
>looked late Edwardian.  So are newly designed historically inspired hats in
>Vogue in Europe or is the royalty of Europe wearing vintage?  I must also
>say I loved the garnishment of feathers on the hats.

I have to wonder if the prevalence of stylish hats might not have 
been a conscious tribute to a woman known for her hats!

-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 18:28:26 +0100
Status: RO

AlbertCat wrote:

> > <<the square of jewels wasn't an accessory,>>
>
>
> If added to the dress, it is.

The point is that the square of jewels wasn't added to the dress. It
was an integral part of it, and therefore wasn't an accessory.

>
>  <<and decolletage>>
>
>
> Which merely means a low neckline...not specifically off the
shoulder. So yes
> they did.

 But the portraits don't actually show a low neckline; there is no
cleavage, nothing resembling earlier, and later low necklines.

> <<The notion of the idle rich is
> not relevant to 16th century England...>>
>
>
> Nonsense.

You've chosen not to attempt to respond to the example that I quoted
of Elizabeth's workload, you've simply cut it and asserted that my
comment is nonsense. If you would care to provide examples, and cite
your sources, I'll be happy to comment. Simply saying "nonsense"
doesn't hack it.

Stevie Gamble
>
>
>

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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:23:40 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_39.254cbed9.29e5dd2c_boundary
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In a message dated 4/10/2002 1:43:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:


> 
> > > <<the square of jewels wasn't an accessory,>>
> >
> >
> > If added to the dress, it is.
> 
> The point is that the square of jewels wasn't added to the dress. It
> was an integral part of it, and therefore wasn't an accessory.  
> > 

I'm sorry, I think we're just at odds in the definition department. I think 
if the thing is interchangeable with other gowns....can be worn with more 
than one gown....it's an accessory. Like collars and engagents in other 
periods. They are an integral part of the outfit [like a hat even] but still 
accessories. You're definition is perhaps too modern, I think.

> >  <<and decolletage>>
> >
> >
> > Which merely means a low neckline...not specifically off the
> shoulder. So yes
> > they did.
> 
> But the portraits don't actually show a low neckline; there is no
> cleavage, nothing resembling earlier, and later low necklines.
> 


I think those necklines, not being at the NECK but closer to the bottom of 
the armseye, are low.....not plunging, but low. Mainly because there are 
gowns with high necks, and partlets to fill in a LOW NECKLINE. There is no 
cleavage because the corset pushes the breasts down, not up. Again...you're 
thinking appears modern.

> > <<The notion of the idle rich is
> > not relevant to 16th century England...>>
> >
> >
> > Nonsense.
> 
> You've chosen not to attempt to respond to the example that I quoted
> of Elizabeth's workload, you've simply cut it and asserted that my
> comment is nonsense. If you would care to provide examples, and cite
> your sources, I'll be happy to comment. Simply saying "nonsense"
> doesn't hack it.

The NOTION of the idle rich is
> NOT RELEVANT to 16th century England.

I think this statement is nonsense, regardless of how much Queen Elizabeth or 
Mary Queen of Scots ran around. Are you saying the idle rich didn't exist or 
had zero influence in this period?

--part1_39.254cbed9.29e5dd2c_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/10/2002 1:43:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR>&gt; &gt; &lt;&lt;the square of jewels wasn't an accessory,&gt;&gt;
<BR>&gt;
<BR>&gt;
<BR>&gt; If added to the dress, it is.
<BR>
<BR>The point is that the square of jewels wasn't added to the dress. It
<BR>was an integral part of it, and therefore wasn't an accessory. &nbsp;
<BR>&gt; </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I'm sorry, I think we're just at odds in the definition department. I think if the thing is interchangeable with other gowns....can be worn with more than one gown....it's an accessory. Like collars and engagents in other periods. They are an integral part of the outfit [like a hat even] but still accessories. You're definition is perhaps too modern, I think.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt; &nbsp;&lt;&lt;and decolletage&gt;&gt;
<BR>&gt;
<BR>&gt;
<BR>&gt; Which merely means a low neckline...not specifically off the
<BR>shoulder. So yes
<BR>&gt; they did.
<BR>
<BR>But the portraits don't actually show a low neckline; there is no
<BR>cleavage, nothing resembling earlier, and later low necklines.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>I think those necklines, not being at the NECK but closer to the bottom of the armseye, are low.....not plunging, but low. Mainly because there are gowns with high necks, and partlets to fill in a LOW NECKLINE. There is no cleavage because the corset pushes the breasts down, not up. Again...you're thinking appears modern.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt; &lt;&lt;The notion of the idle rich is
<BR>&gt; not relevant to 16th century England...&gt;&gt;
<BR>&gt;
<BR>&gt;
<BR>&gt; Nonsense.
<BR>
<BR>You've chosen not to attempt to respond to the example that I quoted
<BR>of Elizabeth's workload, you've simply cut it and asserted that my
<BR>comment is nonsense. If you would care to provide examples, and cite
<BR>your sources, I'll be happy to comment. Simply saying "nonsense"
<BR>doesn't hack it.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">The NOTION of the idle rich is
<BR>&gt; NOT RELEVANT to 16th century England.
<BR>
<BR>I think this statement is nonsense, regardless of how much Queen Elizabeth or Mary Queen of Scots ran around. Are you saying the idle rich didn't exist or had zero influence in this period?</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 13:31:20 -0500
Status: RO

Hi,

My name is Nancy and I am from Texas, USA.  I have just joined this list.  I
found out about it while taking Drea's 16th Century Woman's Dress class.  I
am interested in Medieval and Renaissance clothing.

Regards,
Nancy



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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: keeping hats on (was Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:44:38 -0700
Status: RO


>I not only have smooth hair, but I tend to wear it up, so I need a hat to 
>sort of perch.

>They blow off, they interfere with my vision driving, I stopped wearing 
>them...

Use hat pins.  The pin goes in thru the hat, thru your hair, and out the 
other side of the hat.  That way the hat won't fall off.  Use two pins if 
you need to.

Make your own hat pins out of ' piano wire', available at old fashioned 
hobby stores but not modern craft stores.  It's springy wire, and comes in 
36" pieces, good for 3-4 hat pins.  Cut it somehow (it's really tough) and 
sharpen one end with a file.  Try the newly sharpened point thru a sweater, 
to make sure you've got all the rough edges off it.  Kink the unsharpened 
end into a very small 'U' so you can wire a large shank-button onto 
it.  After wiring the button on, use glue to keep the wire and button shank 
in position.  Beads are also good for hat pin ends.  Sometimes I can find 
glass thingeys which are not quite beads, which are are flat and have a 
hole partway into them.  These are perfect for the ends of hat pins.

Research what hat pins look like in your period, and make more like 
that.  Victorian/Edwardian ones are long.  Some decades did bead-like ends 
(80's - 90's) and others (Edwardian) had flat button-like ends.  The Dover 
reprint of several decades of fashion plates from Harper's magazine shows a 
few hat pins.  1920's ones are much shorter and may have felt ends, or may 
have an 'end' at both ends.

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:51:10 -0700
Status: RO

Heather Rose Jones writes, in a message sent 09:43 AM 4/10/02 -0700:
>At 1:41 AM -0400 4/10/02, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>>First, I would like to say, the Queen Mum had a glorious life and will be
>>missed by the world.
>>
>>I was watching the funeral of the Queen Mum today.  I was in awe of all the
>>beautiful hats the women were wearing.  All in black but so many different
>>styles.  I don't think I saw two alike hats alike.  So many were inspired by
>>various styles of the 20th Century.  I saw wide brims hats from the late
>>Edwardian period to teens.  Lots of these.  One of my sons passed through
>>the room, looked at the TV and said, "It looks like Titanic!"  One lady
>>looked like Jackie Kennedy with a pill box hat and Chanel dress.  Another
>>lady's hat looked like the late 1940s-early 50s.  The Queen's hat even
>>looked late Edwardian.  So are newly designed historically inspired hats in
>>Vogue in Europe or is the royalty of Europe wearing vintage?  I must also
>>say I loved the garnishment of feathers on the hats.
>
>I have to wonder if the prevalence of stylish hats might not have been a 
>conscious tribute to a woman known for her hats!

And I just think the Londoners are big on wearing hats.  Certainly their 
climate warrants it.

My Grandmother Barrows (1880-1973) lived in Southern California and never 
left the house without a hat and gloves.  My other grandmother, born some 
20 years later, lived in Oregon, hardly owned any hats, and wore a bandana 
over her head, tied under her chin, if the weather was bad.

Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] pattern of Gustav III Wedding Dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:04:39 -0400
Status: RO

Sounds very tempting, Bjarne, but before I order,
is there a photo of the Wedding Dress anywhere to
be seen?

Michelle
================================================================================
                      Steve & Michelle Plumb   --    splumb225904MI@comcast.net
                                     Plymouth, Michigan  USA

"I'm sitting here completely surrounded by no beer!"

                                                             ------------- Onslow, from "Keeping Up Appearances"
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:05:59 EDT
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In a message dated 4/10/2002 2:12:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:


> Italian-Ren Viking *really* appeals - I can picture some lovely fantasy 
> outfits that would fall into that category
> 
 I actually hadn't thought of portraiture costumes from the Victorian period, 
I don't know why it didn't occur.  Does seem like we could have some serious 
fun with some cross-breeding of eras, though... Teddy, what about Egyptian 
Elizabethan?  

angela


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Narrow" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/10/2002 2:12:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Italian-Ren Viking *really* appeals - I can picture some lovely fantasy <BR>
outfits that would fall into that category<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Narrow" LANG="0"> I actually hadn't thought of portraiture costumes from the Victorian period, I don't know why it didn't occur.&nbsp; Does seem like we could have some serious fun with some cross-breeding of eras, though... Teddy, what about Egyptian Elizabethan?&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
<BR>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ebay, an amusing aside/OT
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:08:57 EDT
Status: RO


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If any of you who have been discussing Ebay wish to have a giggle about 
costume or the lack thereof, visit this site briefly.


> http://home.triad.rr.com/dbcfour/ebaynotice.htm
> 
angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"The naked truth of it is, I have no shirt."
Love's Labours Lost, V, ii - W. Shakespeare

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>If any of you who have been discussing Ebay wish to have a giggle about costume or the lack thereof, visit this site briefly.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://home.triad.rr.com/dbcfour/ebaynotice.htm<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes <BR>
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
<BR>
"The naked truth of it is, I have no shirt."<BR>
Love's Labours Lost, V, ii - W. Shakespeare<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:10:53 -0500
Status: RO

Hee hee - Hi Nancy! *waves*

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy DuPree" <ndupree@cox-internet.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 1:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] New to List


> Hi,
>
> My name is Nancy and I am from Texas, USA.  I have just joined this list.
I
> found out about it while taking Drea's 16th Century Woman's Dress class.
I
> am interested in Medieval and Renaissance clothing.
>
> Regards,
> Nancy
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Yuck.  Some people look better covered up.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Yuck. &nbsp;Some people look better covered up.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 13:47:54 -0700
Status: RO

Somehow I missed the original message.  What is the pattern/publication and where can I buy it?

Thanks,

Fran

Steve & Michelle Plumb wrote:

> Sounds very tempting, Bjarne, but before I order,
> is there a photo of the Wedding Dress anywhere to
> be seen?
>
> Michelle
> ================================================================================
>                       Steve & Michelle Plumb   --    splumb225904MI@comcast.net
>                                      Plymouth, Michigan  USA
>
> "I'm sitting here completely surrounded by no beer!"
>
>                                                              ------------- Onslow, from "Keeping Up Appearances"
> ================================================================================
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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:02:31 +0100
Status: RO

Albert Cat wrote:

> > > > <<the square of jewels wasn't an accessory,>>
> > >
> > >
> > > If added to the dress, it is.
> >
> > The point is that the square of jewels wasn't added to the dress.
It
> > was an integral part of it, and therefore wasn't an accessory.
> > >

> I'm sorry, I think we're just at odds in the definition department.
I think
> if the thing is interchangeable with other gowns....can be worn with
more
> than one gown....it's an accessory. Like collars and engagents in
other
> periods. They are an integral part of the outfit [like a hat even]
but still
> accessories. You're definition is perhaps too modern, I think.

No, my definition isn't too modern; it's accurate. The Concise Oxford
gives the following relevant definitions:
accessory // n. & adj. (also accessary)
n. (pl. -ies)
1 an additional or extra thing.
2 (usu. in pl.) a a small attachment or fitting. b a small item of
(esp. a woman's) dress (e.g. shoes, gloves, handbag).

There is an absolute distinction between an integral part of an object
and something which is additional to that object.  Accessory derives
from the medieval Latin accessorius; if you wish I can provide the OED
version.

> > >  <<and decolletage>>

> > > Which merely means a low neckline...not specifically off the
> > shoulder. So yes
> > > they did.
> >
> > But the portraits don't actually show a low neckline; there is no
> > cleavage, nothing resembling earlier, and later low necklines.


> I think those necklines, not being at the NECK but closer to the
bottom of
> the armseye, are low.....not plunging, but low. Mainly because there
are
> gowns with high necks, and partlets to fill in a LOW NECKLINE. There
is no
> cleavage because the corset pushes the breasts down, not up.
Again...you're
> thinking appears modern.

Actually, verifiable corsets from that period are non-existent, and
thus I am somewhat surprised by your apparent conviction that you know
what the corsets actually did to the breasts. And since I am comparing
the necklines with those which went before it and those which went
after I fail to see how comparative comparison can be described as
modern thinking. Perhaps you would explain what you mean by it.


> > > <<The notion of the idle rich is
> > > not relevant to 16th century England...>>
> > >
> > >
> > > Nonsense.
> >
> > You've chosen not to attempt to respond to the example that I
quoted
> > of Elizabeth's workload, you've simply cut it and asserted that my
> > comment is nonsense. If you would care to provide examples, and
cite
> > your sources, I'll be happy to comment. Simply saying "nonsense"
> > doesn't hack it.
>
> The NOTION of the idle rich is
> > NOT RELEVANT to 16th century England.
>
> I think this statement is nonsense, regardless of how much Queen
Elizabeth or
> Mary Queen of Scots ran around. Are you saying the idle rich didn't
exist or
> had zero influence in this period?

You've cut your original comment about this style of dress. You said
" [this] is not a dress in which much activity is going to be
attempted. Indeed, such a garment proudly announces that you don't do
anything!"

I do appreciate that you are engaged in creative cutting since
otherwise it would be more obvious to passing readers that you are
flatly contradicting yourself, but it's only fair for me to point it
out.
 Since you now concede that Elizabeth and others were required to do a
great deal wearing that style of garment you are down to arguing about
the "idle rich". The "idle rich" was a specific concept coined in the
19th century about a certain stage of capitalism; Marx wrote a very
great deal, but in all of his voluminous output he never suggested
that sixteenth century England harboured any class which could be so
described. Which is why I pointed out that the notion of the idle rich
is not relevant to 16th century England. ...

Stevie Gamble

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Ebay, an amusing aside/OT
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:27:08 -0700
Status: RO


>If any of you who have been discussing Ebay wish to have a giggle about 
>costume or the lack thereof, visit this site briefly.
>
>
>>http://home.triad.rr.com/dbcfour/ebaynotice.htm

Where I come from, no costume is no costume.  So while I did get a giggle 
out of this one, you're right about it being OT.  Thanks for posting it.


Kayta
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   (((  <> ))))
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:28:39 -0700
Status: RO

The site's all in Danish!  I saw the dress, but where's the pattern?

>Hi. Sorry for the crossposting!
>
>I just want to inform all you 18th.century freaks like me, that The
>Royal Armory of Sweden, Livrustkammaren has published a pattern of the
>Wedding Dress of Gustav III. It was made for him in Paris. You can buy
>your copy of it from their website:
>Jeanette Danielson
>Enhetschef/Head of Department
>Publika enheten/Public Department
>Livrustkammaren/The Royal Armoury
>Slottsbacken 3
>S-111 30 Stockholm
>Sweden
>tel: +46(0)851955508
>fax: +46(0)851955511
>e-mail: jeanette.danielson@lsh.se
>www.livrustkammaren.nu
>
>The price for the pattern is a little pricey, 350 swedish kr. but it is
>such an exquisite garment.
>Now i know what i am going to make next time............
>
>Bjarne


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu>
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References: <010001c1e052$51ee5b00$0300a8c0@centrl01.va.comcast.net> <010001c1e052$51ee5b00$0300a8c0@centrl01.va.comcast.net> <4.3.1.2.20020410114504.0500c210@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:58:10 -0500
Status: RO

I caught most of the Queen Mum's funeral later on C-span. She is the one
royal hardly anyone criticises aside from her hats. But being a tiny lady
and not being able to wear high fashion, she wore what she liked and it was
her own style. We won't see her like again because of all the media pressure
to be reed-thin and look and dress a certain way.

I am a hat lover myself, but because of budget constraits, being very short,
and general hat fit, seldom find just what I what that looks right for my
build and long face shape plus an affordable price, I seldom can buy for
warm weather.

Mine are mostly to shield me from the sun and cover the frequent bad hair
days resulting from a combo of thin, fine, limp hair unsuccessfully duelling
with Nebraska winds. I just like hats anyway, but should have minded my
grandmother's directive to always wear gloves, as my hands are starting to
look older than the rest of me


Cindy Abel


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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:03:38
Status: RO

Hi Nancy!

Where in Texas?

Mary/Katerine
(in hazy and lower 80's F Austin, Texas)

>Hi,
>
>My name is Nancy and I am from Texas, USA.  I have just joined this list.  
>I
>found out about it while taking Drea's 16th Century Woman's Dress class.  I
>am interested in Medieval and Renaissance clothing.
>
>Regards,
>Nancy
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 10 19:26:36 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] : impossible sleeves was
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 17:17:29 -0500
Status: RO

Have you had a look at Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and
Screen?" Her pattern for the Tudor hanging sleeves has the sleeve(especially
the upper part)cut on the cross(bias) so that the upper sleeve will fit
tightly, but still have some flexibility being cut on the bias.  I know it
works for the dolls I've dressed, but don't know if it will work for people.
The bias cut is tricky, but the doll sleeves I've done hang perfectly. For a
doll with the correct arm curve, the hanging sleeve is a wonderful solution,
the bias cut seems to help the sleeve hang down nicely, plus spread out as
seen in many portraits.

 I've modified that pattern by cutting an underarm gusset to the correct
size and shape.  To experiment--do a mock-up of one sleeve and then do a
rough gusset, testing movement(to get the best fit/movement ratio possible).
Then draw up the mock gussett in its final form(I use sew-in interfacing as
it makes great pattern pieces and can be basted), bearing in mind your real
material and lining(s). You may want to reinforce the upper sleeve with a
lining or interlining material that is sturdy enough to take the weight of
the entire sleeve.
Cindy Abel



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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 18:27:45 EDT
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In a message dated 4/10/2002 5:06:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:


>  b a small item of
> (esp. a woman's) dress (e.g. shoes, gloves, handbag).
> 
> 

or in some periods: engagents, caps, stomachers, and jeweles guards.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/10/2002 5:06:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> b a small item of
<BR>(esp. a woman's) dress (e.g. shoes, gloves, handbag).
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>or in some periods: engagents, caps, stomachers, and jeweles guards.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 17:28:01 -0500
Status: RO


Hi Mary/Katherine,

I am back in San Angelo (West Texas) now.  My husband and I lived for three
years in Victoria  -- not far from Austin.  San Angelo is home for both of
us -- it is good to be back, for however long it lasts!

Regards,
Nancy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to List


> Hi Nancy!
>
> Where in Texas?
>
> Mary/Katerine
> (in hazy and lower 80's F Austin, Texas)
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >My name is Nancy and I am from Texas, USA.  I have just joined this list.
> >I
> >found out about it while taking Drea's 16th Century Woman's Dress class.
I
> >am interested in Medieval and Renaissance clothing.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Nancy
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: keeping hats on (was Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:47:24 -0700 (PDT)
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> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
[...] 
> Make your own hat pins out of ' piano wire', available at old fashioned 
> hobby stores but not modern craft stores.  It's springy wire, and comes in 
> 36" pieces, good for 3-4 hat pins.  Cut it somehow (it's really tough) and 
> sharpen one end with a file.  Try the newly sharpened point thru a sweater, 
> to make sure you've got all the rough edges off it.  

For those who hate sharpening pin points, you can buy hatpin shafts
already cut to 12" lengths and properly sharpened from Lacis.  If 
your hat is small, you can cut the shaft down to an 8" length with
a large pair of wire cutters.

>Kink the unsharpened 
> end into a very small 'U' so you can wire a large shank-button onto 
> it.  After wiring the button on, use glue to keep the wire and button shank 
> in position.  Beads are also good for hat pin ends.  Sometimes I can find 
> glass thingeys which are not quite beads, which are are flat and have a 
> hole partway into them.  These are perfect for the ends of hat pins.

Ornamental resources sells flat hatpin toppers, half-drilled beads and
half-drilled teardrops for use on hatpins.  If you use these, don't kink
the wire, just glue the finding to the top of the shaft.  Experimentation
indicates that clear epoxy is best, since superglue shatters under stress.
If you're like me and grasp the hatpin by the topper, epoxy is the way
to go.  I've also kinked the top of the shaft into a tiny loop, then 
run beads up to that point and glued them.  Not as "period" but you have
many more options that way.  

Ornamental Resources:
http://www.ornabead.com/
You'll need Adobe Acrobat reader to use this site properly.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to List
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 17:29:22 -0500
Status: RO


Hi Rebecca,
How are you doing on your projects?
Regards,
Nancy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to List


> Hee hee - Hi Nancy! *waves*
>
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> Bristol,
> BRF FOF
>
> So many books, so little time
>
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nancy DuPree" <ndupree@cox-internet.com>
> To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 1:31 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] New to List
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > My name is Nancy and I am from Texas, USA.  I have just joined this
list.
> I
> > found out about it while taking Drea's 16th Century Woman's Dress class.
> I
> > am interested in Medieval and Renaissance clothing.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Nancy
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 18:36:01 EDT
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In a message dated 4/10/2002 5:06:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:


> and
> thus I am somewhat surprised by your apparent conviction that you know
> what the corsets actually did to the breasts.

C'mon! I can look at portraits. And when they do smash them down on actresses 
wearing, say, a corset based on Dorthea Sabina von Neuburg's "pair of bodies" 
from her tomb, plus the shape of other existing gowns of the period, it tends 
to look like the portraits. Not a scientific approach, to be sure. But it's 
not an outrageous leap to think this is what happened.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/10/2002 5:06:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">and
<BR>thus I am somewhat surprised by your apparent conviction that you know
<BR>what the corsets actually did to the breasts.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>C'mon! I can look at portraits. And when they do smash them down on actresses wearing, say, a corset based on Dorthea Sabina von Neuburg's "pair of bodies" from her tomb, plus the shape of other existing gowns of the period, it tends to look like the portraits. Not a scientific approach, to be sure. But it's not an outrageous leap to think this is what happened.</FONT></HTML>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:31:47 -0700
Status: RO

At 4:58 PM -0500 4/10/02, Cynthia Abel wrote:

>I am a hat lover myself, but because of budget constraits, being very short,
>and general hat fit, seldom find just what I what that looks right for my
>build and long face shape plus an affordable price, I seldom can buy for
>warm weather.

Just thought I'd mention, if any hat-lovers are ever in the Berkeley 
(CA) area, you _must_ check out the Berkeley Hat Company (on 
Telegraph Ave., half a dozen blocks from campus).  You'll think 
you've died and gone to heaven.  One of its specialties seems to be 
the extremely ornate style I strongly associate with the 
Sunday-go-to-church dress of my (largely African-American) neighbors. 
Now there's a community that understands the vital importance of hats.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 18:49:49 EDT
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In a message dated 4/10/2002 5:06:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:


> I do appreciate that you are engaged in creative cutting since
> otherwise it would be more obvious to passing readers that you are
> flatly contradicting yourself, but it's only fair for me to point it
> out.
> 
I did no cutting to spin my meaning.

The "idle rich" may be a term coined in the 19th century but it still does 
not mean they did not exist in other times. Nor does it imply they had no 
influence then.

You seem to think these gowns with elaborate sleeves and jewels were, I don't 
know, worn for hunting or playing tennis! Shoot, QE II doesn't do that much 
when she does her thing today! The type of gown I thought we were discussing 
was a court [not tennis court] gown. I don't think I've seen those huge 
cuffed Tudor sleeves [remember, this is what we're talking about....not just 
jewels] on riding habits and outfits of that ilk. And these gowns not only 
convey that one had others do things for one; one MUST have others dress and 
attend one because it's simply impossible to do a lot of activity in such a 
costume.

I stand by what I've said. You may of course think I'm wrong. I am no 
Elizabethan scholar. But I do make costumes and I've found that a tight 
armseye will work and stay in place if there isn't too much waving of arms.

--part1_5b.25fb6043.29e61b8d_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/10/2002 5:06:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I do appreciate that you are engaged in creative cutting since
<BR>otherwise it would be more obvious to passing readers that you are
<BR>flatly contradicting yourself, but it's only fair for me to point it
<BR>out.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>I did no cutting to spin my meaning.
<BR>
<BR>The "idle rich" may be a term coined in the 19th century but it still does not mean they did not exist in other times. Nor does it imply they had no influence then.
<BR>
<BR>You seem to think these gowns with elaborate sleeves and jewels were, I don't know, worn for hunting or playing tennis! Shoot, QE II doesn't do that much when she does her thing today! The type of gown I thought we were discussing was a court [not tennis court] gown. I don't think I've seen those huge cuffed Tudor sleeves [remember, this is what we're talking about....not just jewels] on riding habits and outfits of that ilk. And these gowns not only convey that one had others do things for one; one MUST have others dress and attend one because it's simply impossible to do a lot of activity in such a costume.
<BR>
<BR>I stand by what I've said. You may of course think I'm wrong. I am no Elizabethan scholar. But I do make costumes and I've found that a tight armseye will work and stay in place if there isn't too much waving of arms.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:51:20 -0400
Status: RO



Nancy DuPree wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> My name is Nancy and I am from Texas, USA.  I have just joined this list.  I
> found out about it while taking Drea's 16th Century Woman's Dress class.  I
> am interested in Medieval and Renaissance clothing.
> 


Hi Nancy, Nice to see you here.

Di.
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:45:41 -0500
Status: RO


Well, I was naughty and went to The Pillaged Village site to look around.
Wound up spending money, of course.  I have wanted Period Patterns Early
Tudor Gowns for a long time, so I bought that.  It will be a good reference,
I think.  I really liked the Tudor Underwear pattern which I have had for
awhile.  Besides that, I got some wooden spoons and some small anglets for
my corset.

I suppose I ought to think about rejoining the SCA, so I will have somewhere
to wear the clothes I want to make.

If I don't make garb for me, I will have to start making Renaissance
clothing for my Gene Marshal doll.

Night All,
Nan

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Subject: Re: keeping hats on (was Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:52:36 -0400
Status: RO

Actually, I have, and wear, hat pins! But they don't work that well on 
modern hats, at least in a stiff breeze... I've had the brim catch the 
wind, and the whole hat sort of flap!

My period? Well, very early 21st century, I guess... *G* Or late 20th, 
because I'm talking mostly about hats I tried to wear a few years ago. 
I'm talking more about contemporary dress, here, than costume. I have 
not tended to wear historic costume, but rather put it on a stage (and 
there, I'm not worrying as much about wind, usually. I've only done a 
few summer theatre shows, and I didn't have any trouble with the hats in 
Waiting for Godot... they fit quite nicely!)

I did just find the hats  I made for The Importance of Being Ernest. 
They perched quite nicely, because I made them! Maybe I need to just 
start making my own?

Anne

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>> I not only have smooth hair, but I tend to wear it up, so I need a 
>> hat to sort of perch.
>
>
>> They blow off, they interfere with my vision driving, I stopped 
>> wearing them...
>
>
> Use hat pins.  The pin goes in thru the hat, thru your hair, and out 
> the other side of the hat.  That way the hat won't fall off.  Use two 
> pins if you need to.
>
>



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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:03:59 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, dear, lets not talk about that, shall we? I'm a bit behind :-(

>
> Hi Rebecca,
> How are you doing on your projects?
> Regards,
> Nancy

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 03:46:26
Status: RO


Hello Everyone!

I am a newbie to this list.  I learned about it while taking Drea's 16 
Century Women's dress class (Hi, Nancy!).  I am very excited to glean as 
much information as I can and hopefully, I may be able offer some.  I am 
relatively new to historical costuming.  I just finished putting my husband 
through college, working accounting.  Now it's my turn to go back to school 
and I realized I didn't want to study Marine Bio anymore.  I realized that I 
loved making costumes for all occasions.  So now, in preparation for going 
back to school next winter, I am learning as much as I can right now.  I 
love Ren Faire's and think I am destined to be in the SCA so I have 
somewhere to where all of these ideas/creations, but not in it yet.
I live in San Diego, CA and really look forward to being a member of this 
list.

:) Jessica

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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 01:45:48 EDT
Status: RO

Regarding the hats with scarves...I just saw them at Walmart in Seattle so 
they are probably in other ones.

Osmonida
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 02:24:41 -0400
Status: RO

Thanks Osmonida!  I will check there.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: <Osmondia@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 1:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats


> Regarding the hats with scarves...I just saw them at Walmart in Seattle so
> they are probably in other ones.
>
> Osmonida



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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] pattern of Gustav III Wedding Dress
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> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows
> The site's all in Danish! I saw the dress, but where's the pattern?

Apparently you were on the right page, there is no picture of the
pattern itself, you can order it at the page with the picture of the
original costume.
(Go to Livrustkammaren, then Butiken and then where it says Nyhet!
Gustav.....) The site is in Swedish actually, in the Livrustkammaren
page you can choose the English version but I think information on the
pattern is only in Swedish.

If you're in the US and want to order it, be prepared to spend a lot of
money -- 350 kr is an expensive price to start with. Sure looks tempting
though.

Riina 
(in Finland)
_______________________________________________________________
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<BR><BR>> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows<BR>> The site's all in Danish!  I saw the dress, but where's the pattern?<BR><BR>Apparently you were on the right page, there is no picture of the pattern itself, you can order it at the page with the picture of the original costume.<BR>(Go to Livrustkammaren, then Butiken and then where it says Nyhet! Gustav.....) The site is in Swedish actually, in the Livrustkammaren page you  can choose the English version but I think information on the pattern is only in Swedish.<BR><BR>If you're in the US and want to order it, be prepared to spend a lot of money -- 350 kr is an expensive price to start with. Sure looks tempting though.<BR><BR>Riina <BR>(in Finland)<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Get your own FREE email account at iVillage.com!<br>http://webmail.ivillage.com/  </font>
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: keeping hats on (was Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 00:33:59 -0700
Status: RO


>Actually, I have, and wear, hat pins! But they don't work that well on 
>modern hats, at least in a stiff breeze... I've had the brim catch the 
>wind, and the whole hat sort of flap!

Use two hatpins, one in front and one in back, so the  hat doesn't fly 
off.  And wire the brim of the hat so it isn't so floppy.  And hey - late 
20th century is history by now ;)

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pattern of Gustav III Wedding Dress
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 00:42:37 -0700
Status: RO


> > The site's all in Danish! I saw the dress, but where's the pattern?
>
>Apparently you were on the right page,

I speak so little 'Scandinavian' that I don't know Swedish from Danish if I 
see it written.

>If you're in the US and want to order it, be prepared to spend a lot of 
>money -- 350 kr is an expensive price to start with. Sure looks tempting 
>though.

It can probably be done starting with one of the Janet Arnold 
patterns.  But I'd rather see it than make it, because there isn't much 
call for Swedish Baroque (or is it Rococo?) here in California.


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Gustav III wedding suit
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:00:06 +0200
Status: RO

Dear list.
Sorry of your difficulties, it is in swedish.
Well you go to: http://livrustkammaren.nu/ then you click on the link to
the left marked livrustkammaren, then you click on "butiken" (the shop)
When you have come so far, you click on "nyhet" (news) mønstret til
GustavIII's
franska brøllupsdrakt. (the pattern for Gustav III's wedding suit) it is
written in light grey!!!
Then there is a picture of it. You can order when you click on the light
grey text "Bestall mønsteret" (order the pattern)
The text to the suit says: The swedish crownprince, Gustafs weddingdress
was exhibited december 2001 - february 2002 at an exhibition in Paris.
It was the swedish culturedepartment in Paris - Centre Culturel Suedois
who together with the Livrustkammaren in Stockholm in this way showed
one of the 18th century most outstanding costumes, perhaps the most
exquisite.
Now the Livrustkammaren has made an excact draft of the wedding suit.
The pattern wich is unique in its kind has ben made by Gerard Aroyan,
who is a tailor at the Royal Operahouse. The pattern is given in Gustav
III own size and it is printed on two pieces of paper in a manner
inspired from Gersaults, L'art du tailleur. The Crownprince was a size
in average hight about 165 cm. and with a nowadays gentlemans size of
46-48. Informations about the seams is in swedish and french.
The 4th of november 1766 there was a celebration of the crownprince's
wedding with the same aged danish princesse, Sofia Magdalena. The
bridegrom was dressed in a fashionable habit a la francaise, consisting
of a jacket, waistcoat and trousers, made of drap d'argent moire with a
fantastic aplicationembroidery in metal foil, gold spangels and gold
thread. Shining symbols of suns, rising from bluish skyes.
It was the swedish embassador in Paris, Count Gustav Phillip Creutz, who
arranged the work for the suit. He let the french firm, Le Roux & De la
Salle for the fabrics and the embroideries. The result was admired by
all Paris,"anything that beautifull was never seen before",  wrote the
proud Creutz to the Crownprince.

The pattern is made with a co-operation betwen Livrustkammaren and
Cortorama Nordica, AB and with contributes from Marcus and Amalia
Wallenbergs comemmoration.
This is my own translation from Swedish to English, Swedish is not my
native language, so i hope you will forgive me, if it is not perfect.
I hope you will enjoy.
This i want to make for myself, next year - yeahhhh!!!!

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:20:21 +0200
Status: RO

This is off topic, but i have to tell you.......
I joined a list at yahoo called Images of Marie Antoinette. I thoaght i
was joining some interresting discussions about her life and time.
Wouldnt you know it, it is a pornografic fetish thingy, not at all
historical.
Now i must sign off again........

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:18:00 +0000 (GMT)
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>  I actually hadn't thought of portraiture costumes from the
> Victorian period, I don't know why it didn't occur.  Does seem like
> we could have some serious fun with some cross-breeding of eras,
> though... Teddy, what about Egyptian Elizabethan?  

Oooh yes!  I was looking at some beautiful metalic-striped fabric in 
a friend's stash last night that was vaguely Egyptian if held with the 
stripes horizontal and what I referred to as "Space-age victorian" 
with the stripes vertical....  Something like that used for Egyprian 
Elizabethan would be stunning.

Teddy
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:34:53 +0100
Status: RO

At our last Victorian weekend we had a medieval banquet which was fun, esp
as we all do medieval anyway, so a nice chance for fantasy gothic style :)

Mel

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pattern of Gustav III Wedding Dress
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:30:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> The site's all in Danish!  I saw the dress, but where's the pattern?

More likely Swedish..... but even so, I didn't go looking for the dress 
as I only know three words in Swedish and I don't think "Hello" and 
Thanks" are very useful for navigating that site.
 


Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustav III wedding suit
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 02:36:04 -0700
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>Sorry of your difficulties, it is in Swedish.
>Well you go to: http://livrustkammaren.nu/

The dress on the 'livrustkammaren' page must have dazzled my brain.  Gustav 
III wouldn't have worn any dress.  (I knew that.  Really I did.)  Thank you 
for the pointer to the correct page.  And you're right about the suit.  No 
wonder you want it.

And don't worry about your translation.  English may not be your native 
language, but your English is infinitely better than my Swedish (did I say 
I don't speak or read Swedish?).  I couldn't have translated it with a 
Swedish dictionary in my hand.  Thank you for translating for us.

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 02:48:21 -0700
Status: RO


> >  I actually hadn't thought of portraiture costumes from the
> > Victorian period, I don't know why it didn't occur.  Does seem like
> > we could have some serious fun with some cross-breeding of eras,
> > though... Teddy, what about Egyptian Elizabethan?
>
>Oooh yes!  I was looking at some beautiful metalic-striped fabric in
>a friend's stash last night that was vaguely Egyptian if held with the
>stripes horizontal and what I referred to as "Space-age victorian"
>with the stripes vertical....  Something like that used for Egyprian
>Elizabethan would be stunning.

My favorite cross-period hybrid is early 1920's doing Georgian.  There is a 
children's book called 'The Real Mother Goose', illustrated by Blanche 
Fisher Wright (probably actually from the 19-teens) which is full of these 
hybrids.  Victorian fancy dress and Renaissance 'Greek/Roman' or 'Biblical' 
costumes are pretty interesting too.  And weren't Italian Ren. (men and 
women) and Regency (women) costumes their idea of copies of togas?

BTW, on page 248 of the Dover 'Harper's Bazar 1867-1898' book there is an 
1893 'Egyptian'.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 07:38:40 -0400
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 5:48 AM
.  There is a
> children's book called 'The Real Mother Goose', illustrated by Blanche
> Fisher Wright (probably actually from the 19-teens) which is full of these
> hybrids.

I have this book! In fact, it's one of my treasures--I had a copy as a
little kid, and I bought another copy on eBay for my kids. But you are
correct, the costuming is rather...strange. Still and all, I love it. Lots
of warm fuzzy memories in that book.

Dianne

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Subject: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie:  need hairdo help
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 04:56:27 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Why, yes, I _am_ serious. 

I have selected a Barbie with waist-length straight
reddish-blonde hair and am having trouble coming up
with an accurate hairstyle for 9th-10th century.

(Apologies to SCA-Garb for the cross-posting, but I'm
on a mission here!)

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie:  need hairdo help
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:15:35 +0100
Status: RO

>I have selected a Barbie with waist-length straight
reddish-blonde hair and am having trouble coming up
with an accurate hairstyle for 9th-10th century.

Most 9-10th anglo saxons would not have been pagan.

Red hair is more celtic really, but it dosen't matter as a good Christian
lady of Anglo Saxon England in the 9-10c would have her hair covered by a
veil, unless corrupted by a nasty pagan viking

Try the Regia site I think www.regia.org or www.regia.org.uk for pics


Hope that helps

Mel

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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:12:54 BST
Status: RO

Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> wrote :

> Why, yes, I _am_ serious. 

Any why not?

> I have selected a Barbie with waist-length straight
> reddish-blonde hair and am having trouble coming up
> with an accurate hairstyle for 9th-10th century.

>From the http://www.angelcynn.org.uk/ site:

"There is no evidence that in Pagan times women habitually covered their heads like the later Anglo-Saxon women, but a number of types of headgear are known. A cloak or shawl could easily be drawn up over the head, to form a hood, and rectangular scarves, sometimes fringed are known from archaeology. Caps or hairnets of a technique known as sprang are known from pictorial and archaeological sources, often covering plaits or braids of hair. Pictorial and archaeological evidence also suggest the use of veils, often of linen, draped loosely over unbound hair. A veil is prone to slip, or be blown by the wind, so if a veil was to be worn it would either have a band over it to secure it, or a fixed base, such as a braid of hair and/or a cap, could be used to pin it to. A few wealthy Kentish women were buried with gold brocaded fillets (perhaps known by the Latin word vitta, or the Old English words nostle, snod and þwæle), a fashion imported from the Frankish Kingdom. Possibly wom!
en in humbler circumstances wore fillets made entirely of textile which has since rotted away. The linguistic evidence suggests a wider range of headgear than archaeology and sculpture. The word hæt (hat) was in use as were cuffie (loose fitting hood or scarf) and scyfel (some kind of cap or hat). The binde, a fillet, seems to have been worn by married women."

They then note for Kent in particular:
"Women's hair was worn long (but not necessarily un cut and unstyled), sometimes loose but often plaited. Some representations show the hair drawn back from the face, presumably into a plait or pony-tail. It is uncertain whether a pony tail would be tied back with some kind of fastening, or whether it would be knotted as was done in Scandinavia. Some continental sculptures show quite elegant coiffures and ringlets on Germanic women, and a pair of pony-tails fastened behind each ear are also often represented."

Which would seem to give you a lot of choice!




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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:13:04 +0100
Status: RO

Kayta wrote:

>  And weren't Italian Ren. (men and 
women) and Regency (women) costumes their idea of copies of togas?

I thought Regency gowns were more Grecian-inspired than Roman (and of course the toga was male attire).

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: [h-cost] Angelceynn
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:18:34 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, I love the Angelceynn site.  Aren't the pictures wonderful.  I've been
intending to duplicate the Christian Woman's Dress for some time, just
another project that I haven't done yet.

Another doll lady out there - what fun!!!

I love Barbie and Gene.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie:  need hairdo help
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:42:05 -0500
Status: RO

I know this is not accurate but I did purchase for my daughter to be given
at Christmas the Princess of Ireland Barbie. Take a look as I was surprised
at what they did.
http://www.barbie.com/catalog/product.asp?type=100001&subtype=100004&product
_id=1001784
I LOVE that hair!

(Yes, I am one of those moms that buys things way before Christmas, ya never
know....)

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Steppes, Ansteorra
McKinney,Texas
 `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan Garner" <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 6:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie: need hairdo help


> Why, yes, I _am_ serious.
>
> I have selected a Barbie with waist-length straight
> reddish-blonde hair and am having trouble coming up
> with an accurate hairstyle for 9th-10th century.
>
> (Apologies to SCA-Garb for the cross-posting, but I'm
> on a mission here!)
>
> Iohanna the Harper
> [Joan Hall]
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, "costume list" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie:  need hairdo help
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:42:05 -0500
Status: RO

I know this is not accurate but I did purchase for my daughter to be given
at Christmas the Princess of Ireland Barbie. Take a look as I was surprised
at what they did.
http://www.barbie.com/catalog/product.asp?type=100001&subtype=100004&product
_id=1001784
I LOVE that hair!

(Yes, I am one of those moms that buys things way before Christmas, ya never
know....)

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Steppes, Ansteorra
McKinney,Texas
 `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan Garner" <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 6:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie: need hairdo help


> Why, yes, I _am_ serious.
>
> I have selected a Barbie with waist-length straight
> reddish-blonde hair and am having trouble coming up
> with an accurate hairstyle for 9th-10th century.
>
> (Apologies to SCA-Garb for the cross-posting, but I'm
> on a mission here!)
>
> Iohanna the Harper
> [Joan Hall]
>
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 07:01:00 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Clearly my history train-of-thought derailed as to
what century the Anglo-Saxons were Christianized.

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

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From: "Ulrika A. O'Brien" <uaobrien@uci.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustav III wedding suit
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:31:21 -0700
Status: RO

For those in the U.S. interested in buying the pattern, I will
note that 350 SEK is roughly $35.00 U.S. at current exchange
rates.

At 02:00 AM 4/11/2002, Leif Drews wrote:
>Dear list.
>Sorry of your difficulties, it is in swedish.
>Well you go to: http://livrustkammaren.nu/ then you click on the link to
>the left marked livrustkammaren, then you click on "butiken" (the shop)
>When you have come so far, you click on "nyhet" (news) mønstret til
>GustavIII's
>franska brøllupsdrakt. (the pattern for Gustav III's wedding suit) it is
>written in light grey!!!
>Then there is a picture of it. You can order when you click on the light
>grey text "Bestall mønsteret" (order the pattern)
>The text to the suit says: The swedish crownprince, Gustafs weddingdress
>was exhibited december 2001 - february 2002 at an exhibition in Paris.
>It was the swedish culturedepartment in Paris - Centre Culturel Suedois
>who together with the Livrustkammaren in Stockholm in this way showed
>one of the 18th century most outstanding costumes, perhaps the most
>exquisite.
>Now the Livrustkammaren has made an excact draft of the wedding suit.
>The pattern wich is unique in its kind has ben made by Gerard Aroyan,
>who is a tailor at the Royal Operahouse. The pattern is given in Gustav
>III own size and it is printed on two pieces of paper in a manner
>inspired from Gersaults, L'art du tailleur. The Crownprince was a size
>in average hight about 165 cm. and with a nowadays gentlemans size of
>46-48. Informations about the seams is in swedish and french.
>The 4th of november 1766 there was a celebration of the crownprince's
>wedding with the same aged danish princesse, Sofia Magdalena. The
>bridegrom was dressed in a fashionable habit a la francaise, consisting
>of a jacket, waistcoat and trousers, made of drap d'argent moire with a
>fantastic aplicationembroidery in metal foil, gold spangels and gold
>thread. Shining symbols of suns, rising from bluish skyes.
>It was the swedish embassador in Paris, Count Gustav Phillip Creutz, who
>arranged the work for the suit. He let the french firm, Le Roux & De la
>Salle for the fabrics and the embroideries. The result was admired by
>all Paris,"anything that beautifull was never seen before",  wrote the
>proud Creutz to the Crownprince.
>
>The pattern is made with a co-operation betwen Livrustkammaren and
>Cortorama Nordica, AB and with contributes from Marcus and Amalia
>Wallenbergs comemmoration.
>This is my own translation from Swedish to English, Swedish is not my
>native language, so i hope you will forgive me, if it is not perfect.
>I hope you will enjoy.
>This i want to make for myself, next year - yeahhhh!!!!
>
>Bjarne
>
>--
>
>
>Leif Drews
>Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>1635  København V
>
>Bjarne Drews
>Åboulevard 5,3.th
>1635 København V
>
>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
>My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:50:20 -0400
Status: RO

Hi Nancy Du Pree and Rebecca Schmitt! 

Fancy meeting you here!  Since I make Renaissance and Victorian/Edwardian hats, this was one site I just gravitated to. As you can see, if you have a costume question, someone out there will have an answer or tell you where to find it.  This can be such a supportive community.  Welcome.

Donna Scarfe
Owner and Designer
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie: Thanks for all the ideas!
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 19:07:35 +0100
Status: RO

>Clearly my history train-of-thought derailed as to
what century the Anglo-Saxons were Christianized.

Did you want pagan or 9-10th C then ?

Pagan is far nicer, but I'm rather biased being a pagan anglo saxon :)
(www.maering.co.uk) you could have some lovely glass beads (see my gallery
in www.hot-glass.co.uk) mini tablet weaving & all sorts & hair jangles !!

Mel

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie: Thanks for all the ideas!
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:13:10 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Pagan it is!  I want fun hair.

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]
--- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> >Clearly my history train-of-thought derailed as to
> what century the Anglo-Saxons were Christianized.
> 
> Did you want pagan or 9-10th C then ?
> 
> Pagan is far nicer, but I'm rather biased being a
> pagan anglo saxon :)
> (www.maering.co.uk) you could have some lovely glass
> beads (see my gallery
> in www.hot-glass.co.uk) mini tablet weaving & all
> sorts & hair jangles !!
> 
> Mel
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie: Thanks for all the ideas!
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 19:31:41 +0100
Status: RO

>Pagan it is!  I want fun hair.

Jangles are fun

Email me on melaniewilson@bigfoot.com & I'll try & send some pics

Mel

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie:  need hairdo help
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:17:43 -0700
Status: RO


>A veil is prone to slip, or be blown by the wind, so if a veil was to be 
>worn it would either have a band over it to secure it, or a fixed base, 
>such as a braid of hair and/or a cap, could be used to pin it to.

A veil made of something like wool challis (really thin and drapey) would 
not be so prone to slippage, and would require no attachment.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:28:30 -0700
Status: RO


> >  And weren't Italian Ren. (men and
>women) and Regency (women) costumes their idea of copies of togas?
>
>I thought Regency gowns were more Grecian-inspired than Roman (and of 
>course the toga was male attire).

Not my period - way too far back.  A toga was for men, and I don't know 
what the women's garment was called - a peplos?.

What I meant was they seem to have adopted clothes based on the 
styles/shapes of the statuary that went along with the new (old) 
Greek/Roman ideas they were reading.  I know that Italian armor and swords 
started looking Greek/Roman for a while.  There's a short sword called a 
cinqueda (sp?) that's almost a copy of a Roman short sword.  Those 
organ-pipe pleats seem to have mimicked toga/peplos drapes.

I also heard that after Pompei and Herculaneum were re-discovered, women 
(late 1700's-early 1800's) started wearing high-waisted drapey garments, 
white because all the paint had worn off the original statuary.

Kayta
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:13:55 +0100
Status: RO

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote
>>
>> OK, what IS Victorian Medieval?  I love that. One has to be fairly
>> creative to coin new eras as such.
>
>Haven't seen the item, but to me the term "Victorian Medieval" evokes
>the Aesthetic Movement.
>
>Fran
>
I would guess pre-Raphaelite.  Lady of Shalot 'n' all that.

Jean

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:12:00 +0100
Status: RO

Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote
>Jean wrote:
>
>> Anyway, I have made my early Tudor dress with this arrangement, a
>wide
>> square neck at the front and a V at the back, with the sleeves  and
>> armscye as tight as I could manage.  It works very well, and I never
>> have to twitch the shoulders up.
>
>As I noted a while back, in Aileen Ribeiro's "Gallery of Fashion"on
>page 34 she states that "the
>jewelled "square" holding the neckline in place prevents the heavy
>sleeves
>from slipping off the shoulders".
>
>I do wonder whether the very tight sleeves and armscye are a 21st
>century way of keeping the sleeves where you want them, rather than a
>16th century method...
>
>best wishes
>Stevie
>
Not everyone had jewels!  And those armholes are definitely very tight. 
Check out a sketch of Mary Zouch by Holbein.

One of my friends once showed me a way that had been suggested to her of 
cutting the sleeves and shoulders in one piece.  Imagine you have a 
strip of fabric like a wide bandage.  You start at the centre back, with 
a 45 degree angle so the grain is going along the V, not vertically.  It 
goes over the shoulder and then wraps round the arm.  I've seen it 
wrapped, but never sewn, (you have to do an interesting gusset under the 
arm) but it seems as if it pulls in the right directions to keep 
everything on.  Another option.

Jean

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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:33:54 -0500
Status: RO

Leif Drews wrote:

> This is off topic, but i have to tell you.......
> I joined a list at yahoo called Images of Marie Antoinette. I thoaght i
> was joining some interresting discussions about her life and time.
> Wouldnt you know it, it is a pornografic fetish thingy, not at all
> historical.
> Now i must sign off again........

I just looked at the group description and it appears to be a legitimate
group.  I'd complain to Yahoo.  Personally, I don't care if people want
to discuss porn, but the group description should be accurate so that
folks not wanting to be involved don't accidentally wander in.

--Charlene

-- 
When aiming for the common denominator, be prepared for the occasional
division by zero.
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British Women & Hats
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:35:56 +0100
Status: RO

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote
>Heather Rose Jones writes, in a message sent 09:43 AM 4/10/02 -0700:
>>At 1:41 AM -0400 4/10/02, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>>>First, I would like to say, the Queen Mum had a glorious life and will be
>>>missed by the world.
>>>
>>>I was watching the funeral of the Queen Mum today.  I was in awe of all the
>>>beautiful hats the women were wearing.  All in black but so many different
>>>styles.  I don't think I saw two alike hats alike.  So many were inspired by
>>>various styles of the 20th Century.  I saw wide brims hats from the late
>>>Edwardian period to teens.  Lots of these.  One of my sons passed through
>>>the room, looked at the TV and said, "It looks like Titanic!"  One lady
>>>looked like Jackie Kennedy with a pill box hat and Chanel dress.  Another
>>>lady's hat looked like the late 1940s-early 50s.  The Queen's hat even
>>>looked late Edwardian.  So are newly designed historically inspired hats in
>>>Vogue in Europe or is the royalty of Europe wearing vintage?  I must also
>>>say I loved the garnishment of feathers on the hats.
>>
>>I have to wonder if the prevalence of stylish hats might not have been 
>>a conscious tribute to a woman known for her hats!
>
>And I just think the Londoners are big on wearing hats.  Certainly 
>their climate warrants it.
>
>My Grandmother Barrows (1880-1973) lived in Southern California and 
>never left the house without a hat and gloves.  My other grandmother, 
>born some 20 years later, lived in Oregon, hardly owned any hats, and 
>wore a bandana over her head, tied under her chin, if the weather was bad.
>
>Kayta
>   //// \\\
>  ////-@@\\\
> ((((   7 )))
>  (((  <> ))))
>     )   ((((((
>/----\   /---\))

The British upper classes always wear hats, always have.  See Royal 
Ascot - the biggest hat-wearing occasion of the year.  The Queen always 
deliberately wears hats with a small brim, so that people can see her 
face. But in recent years hat fashions have been for these big crowned 
creations.  There's nothing inside, you just have to get one that fits 
your head around the band.  Of course, Her Maj doesn't have to go to 
Accessorise and make do with one size fits all!  I have a rather large 
head and find it difficult to get one that will sit far enough down to 
stay on.

Wearing hats is definitely becoming more popular.  Not posh hats (I wish 
I could do "the season" and wear a different fancy hat every weekend!) 
but sunhats and woolly hats, as well as baseball caps etc.  I'm sure 
it's the same in the US, really - it's led by a lot of pop stars.  I'm 
thinking the Gallagher brothers in what I think of as fishermen's 
(angler's) hats, and rap stars in woolly hats.  After all, Accessorise 
wouldn't be doing the business it does if people weren't buying hats.

But when will small crowns come back so I can get a medieval-looking 
straw sunhat?

Jean

Hats, hats, hats, hats, hats.....

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:08:13 -0700
Status: RO

At 10:18 AM +0000 4/11/02, Teddy wrote:
>  >  I actually hadn't thought of portraiture costumes from the
>>  Victorian period, I don't know why it didn't occur.  Does seem like
>>  we could have some serious fun with some cross-breeding of eras,
>>  though... Teddy, what about Egyptian Elizabethan? 
>
>Oooh yes!  I was looking at some beautiful metalic-striped fabric in
>a friend's stash last night that was vaguely Egyptian if held with the
>stripes horizontal and what I referred to as "Space-age victorian"
>with the stripes vertical....  Something like that used for Egyprian
>Elizabethan would be stunning.

One of my home-decorating day-dreams is to do my house in "Victorian 
Pompeii" -- that is, what a Victorian decorator might have done if 
inspired by the "recent" artistic discoveries at Pompeii and 
Herculaneum.  Since the house is a sort of made-over Queen Anne style 
it seems like a better approach than trying to do a serious classical 
Roman style.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress 
From: Sarah Lorraine <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:43:19 -0700
Status: RO

>
>Not everyone had jewels! And those armholes are definitely very tight.
>Check out a sketch of Mary Zouch by Holbein.

>One of my friends once showed me a way that had been suggested to her of
>cutting the sleeves and shoulders in one piece. Imagine you have a
>strip of fabric like a wide bandage. You start at the centre back, with
>a 45 degree angle so the grain is going along the V, not vertically. It
>goes over the shoulder and then wraps round the arm. I've seen it
>wrapped, but never sewn, (you have to do an interesting gusset under the
>arm) but it seems as if it pulls in the right directions to keep
>everything on. Another option.

Do you suppose, then, that this is what those mysterious white shoulder
straps are that Tudor fanatics have been agonizing over for years?  Sounds
very plausable... :)

Sarah

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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Roman 
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 15:03:35 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



> One of my home-decorating day-dreams is to do my house in "Victorian 
> Pompeii" -- that is, what a Victorian decorator might have done if 
> inspired by the "recent" artistic discoveries at Pompeii and 
> Herculaneum.  Since the house is a sort of made-over Queen Anne style 
> it seems like a better approach than trying to do a serious classical 
> Roman style.

Bradbury & Bradbury already has the wallpaper.  What fun!  The Victorian &
Aesthetic catalogs came when I order their Craftsman era wallpaper catalog. 
Please invite us all over for Show & Tell when you're done.

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:22:59 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_162.bfec858.29e766c3_boundary
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In a message dated 4/11/2002 3:28:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk writes:


> Another option.
> 
> 

And an interesting one too because sometimes in paintings it looks like there 
is no shoulder strap at all.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/11/2002 3:28:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Another option.
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>And an interesting one too because sometimes in paintings it looks like there is no shoulder strap at all.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 17:34:11 -0700
Status: RO


> One of my friends once showed me a way that had been suggested to her
> of cutting the sleeves and shoulders in one piece.  Imagine you have a
> strip of fabric like a wide bandage.  You start at the centre back,
> with a 45 degree angle so the grain is going along the V, not
> vertically.  It goes over the shoulder and then wraps round the arm. 
> I've seen it wrapped, but never sewn, (you have to do an interesting
> gusset under the arm) but it seems as if it pulls in the right
> directions to keep everything on.  Another option.

I personally don't feel that they did it this way. It would be quite 
wasteful of fabric.

What people may not realize is that there is a little groove between 
the top of the arm (the head of the humerus, the bone which makes 
up the upper arm) and the collar bone (the projection called the 
acromion.) 

If the top of the sleeve fits in that little groove, it tends to stay there, 
especially if there is a staytape (so that you don't have to have the 
fabric of the dress as part of the V) anchoring it to the midback. 

That staytape is the important part, as it keeps the edges of the V 
from stretching and then falling off. You barely need anything along 
the edge of the neckline at the top or front (which goes along with 
the narrow if at all present area on the portraits in those places).

Actually, it holds better this way than if you use a wider 
shoulderseam (since a wider "shoulder strap" wouldn't fit in the 
little groove as well.)

But you are certainly right about the dresses not always being 
jeweled. None of the women's gowns or kirtles in The Inventories of 
King Henry VIII have them (and that covers the time period of the 
gowns we are discussing.) Other garments (such as the men's 
coat called the gown) sometimes have the jewels (in the form of 
aiglettes) listed with the garment, but the women's gowns do not. 
That suggests to me that, as is described in _Lost from Her 
Majesties Back_, each night the jewels were removed from the 
garment and returned to a coffer or to the jewel box, with the 
garment taken back to their storage area.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:24:50 -0700
Status: RO


>I personally don't feel that they did it this way. It would be quite
>wasteful of fabric.

The farther from the weaving processes the eventual wearer is, the more 
likely they are to put up with fabric waste, in the name of fashion.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 15:27:22 -0700
Status: RO

At 7:07 PM +0100 4/11/02, Melanie Wilson wrote:
>  >Clearly my history train-of-thought derailed as to
>what century the Anglo-Saxons were Christianized.
>
>Did you want pagan or 9-10th C then ?
>
>Pagan is far nicer, but I'm rather biased being a pagan anglo saxon :)
>(www.maering.co.uk) you could have some lovely glass beads (see my gallery
>in www.hot-glass.co.uk) mini tablet weaving & all sorts & hair jangles !!

Do many people do historically dressed dolls on occasion?  I've 
recently gotten interested in the topic via a side-door.  The woman I 
was dating at the end of last year gave me a "Heather doll" for 
Christmas, with outfits and accessories that matched some of my own 
stuff, and I got inspired to start making clothes for her from my 
archaeological garments project.  (So having started at the early 
end, I now have  "Egtved Heather" and  "Borum Eshøj Heather" outfits.)

I remember "Bishop Bob" from last year's Kalamazoo talk on tablet 
weaving with great fondness.

Heather

-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 23:06:04 -0700
Status: RO

Azelana@aol.com wrote:
>  I maintain a spanish persona, roughly around 1515 - 1600 (which is the
>  period that I dress). By any chance does anyone know of some decent Spanish
>  fashion research that would perhaps aid me in the right direction? I'm
>  finding this a bit frustrating, for I am finding mostly English costume
>  research. Though I know English fashions were sometimes inspired by
> Spanish.>>


Hispanic Costume 1480-1530
Ruth Matilda Anderson
ISBN 87535-126-3
Hispanic Society of America, 1979
Kinsport Press

Your humble and obedient servant,
David S Mallinak
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 23:17:10 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. As a side note, and don't take this wrong, anyone, but the SCA has
been dubbed, by quite a few folks in such diverse fields as sociology and
psychology, as a Victorian Medieval group. The reason, I gather, is the
Society's proclivity to romanticise the period "as it should have been, not
as it was...", etc. It is not surprising, then, that the Society
occasionally spawns some "interesting" clothing abberations, a'la the
PreRaphaelites. Having seen camoflage Elizabethan, a kilt made from Disney
fabric and day-glo Landsknecht, I don't think that anything would surprise
me. Amuse me, yes, but surprise....Mike T.



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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:18:05 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


--- Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU>
wrote:
> Do many people do historically dressed dolls on
> occasion? 

I've recently been in touch with 5 other SCA people
whose interest ranges from the humorous to serious
"killer" costuming for dolls, trying to start the
"Miniature Costumers Guild."  ...that is, of course,
miniature costumes, not miniature costumers!
The potential participants are scattered around the
globe, so no tiresome meetings!  I'm in Vallejo, CA
but I don't think any of the others are anywhere near
me.

Iohanna the Harpfer
[Joan Hall]

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 16th Century Spanish
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:23:32 -0700
Status: RO


On Thursday, April 11, 2002, at 11:06 PM, David S. Mallinak wrote:

> Azelana@aol.com wrote:
>>  I maintain a spanish persona, roughly around 1515 - 1600 (which is the
>>  period that I dress). By any chance does anyone know of some decent 
>> Spanish
>>  fashion research that would perhaps aid me in the right direction? I'm
>>  finding this a bit frustrating, for I am finding mostly English 
>> costume
>>  research. Though I know English fashions were sometimes inspired by
>> Spanish.>>
>
>
> Hispanic Costume 1480-1530
> Ruth Matilda Anderson
> ISBN 87535-126-3
> Hispanic Society of America, 1979
> Kinsport Press

I have one copy of this book for sale at $38.

Fred Struthers
fsbks@mcn.org


>
Fred Struthers
--
Books on Cloth
a catalog of out-of-print and hard-to-find books
  on costume, textiles and related subjects
--
http://www.rlshep.com
distributor RL Shep Publications

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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 23:28:39 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 4/11/2002 9:28:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:


> >I personally don't feel that they did it this way. It would be quite
> >wasteful of fabric.
> 
> The farther from the weaving processes the eventual wearer is, the more 
> likely they are to put up with fabric waste, in the name of fashion.
> 

If by "this way" we are referring to cutting the sleeve on the bias, I have 
my doubts too. But actually it may be more economical to cut & nest a trumpet 
shaped sleeve on the bias.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/11/2002 9:28:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kayta@frys.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt;I personally don't feel that they did it this way. It would be quite
<BR>&gt;wasteful of fabric.
<BR>
<BR>The farther from the weaving processes the eventual wearer is, the more 
<BR>likely they are to put up with fabric waste, in the name of fashion.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>If by "this way" we are referring to cutting the sleeve on the bias, I have my doubts too. But actually it may be more economical to cut &amp; nest a trumpet shaped sleeve on the bias.</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 12 00:43:42 2002
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:38:53 -0600
Status: RO

Ooooh, Bjarne, it's beeyoootiful....<g>.....
Are you going to keep the same color scheme, or do something different?
Thanks for the pointers, and translation....I'm guessing, in my
undereducated, American way, that Swedish and Danish are similar,
linguistically? Do they belong to the same language family, the way that
French and Italian are both Romance languages?
--Sue

Bjarne wrote:
> 

> This is my own translation from Swedish to English, Swedish is not my
> native language, so i hope you will forgive me, if it is not perfect.
> I hope you will enjoy.
> This i want to make for myself, next year - yeahhhh!!!!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:41:42 -0600
Status: RO

Some of the stuff in those paintings is just droolsome.....*sigh*....
--Sue whose current favorite "Victorian Medieval" dress is this early
1900s tea dress? afternoon dress? featured in the back of _Dress in
Ireland....lots of silk and knotwork....

Jean Waddie wrote:
> 

> >
> I would guess pre-Raphaelite.  Lady of Shalot 'n' all that.
> 
> Jean
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:29:01 -0700
Status: RO


> >I personally don't feel that they did it this way. It would be quite
> >wasteful of fabric.
> 
> The farther from the weaving processes the eventual wearer is, the
> more likely they are to put up with fabric waste, in the name of
> fashion.

That's true to a point. However, we know how they tended to lay 
things out (such as is seen in Alcega, Buergen, the Milanese 
Tailors Manual, etc) and they are very careful not to waste fabric. 
While they liked to put a lot into the garment, they didn't like to 
waste it in this (16th/early 17th) time period, so I can't believe that 
they would do so in the early to mid 16th Century. It just doesn't go 
with the ideals of the time. 

An example is the extravagant houppelandes which take many, 
many yards of fabric. However, the garments themselves left very 
little scrap after it was cut. (Sorry, I don't have the documents, but I 
read the documentation last month that someone else had.)

In other words, no matter how much extravagance is in the clothes, 
they want it to be *in the clothes* where it can be seen, not on the 
cutting room floor.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miniature Costumers Guild  [was: Pagan A/S Barbie]
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 23:47:21 -0700
Status: RO


>I've recently been in touch with 5 other SCA people
>whose interest ranges from the humorous to serious
>"killer" costuming for dolls, trying to start the
>"Miniature Costumers Guild."  ...that is, of course,
>miniature costumes, not miniature costumers!
>The potential participants are scattered around the
>globe, so no tiresome meetings!  I'm in Vallejo, CA
>but I don't think any of the others are anywhere near
>me.

San Leandro is sort-of near you.  How do I join?


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 23:46:10 -0700
Status: RO


>Having seen camoflage Elizabethan, a kilt made from Disney
>fabric and day-glo Landsknecht, I don't think that anything would surprise
>me. Amuse me, yes, but surprise....Mike T.

Be surprised.  I am the DayGlo Landsknecht, aka Cheryn-Noble.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustav III wedding suit
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 09:12:34 +0100
Status: RO

Sue wrote:
>.I'm guessing, in my
>undereducated, American way, that Swedish and Danish are similar,
>linguistically? Do they belong to the same language family, the way that
>French and Italian are both Romance languages?

At the risk of jumping the gun on our Scandinavian members - Swedish, Danish and Norwegian are all very similar, probably closer than French and Italian. I did a year's Swedish at university because we have family friends in Norway and Norwegian wasn't available. I speak neither fluently, but can read both with the help of a dictionary.
BYW, my Swedish dictionary translates "dr"akt"  as "dress" too, but the original heading of this thread made me smile, visualising King Gustav in a bridal gown!
--

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 10:40:41 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Pagan is far nicer, but I'm rather biased being a pagan anglo saxon :)
> (www.maering.co.uk) you could have some lovely glass beads (see my
> gallery in www.hot-glass.co.uk) mini tablet weaving & all sorts & hair
> jangles !!
> 
> Mel

Hmmm... yes - Mel makes *lovely* beads.  The one she gave me 
at my Coronation in January is scrummy (and it's yellow too, so I'm 
doubly happy)

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historically dressed dolls (WAS: Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie)
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:00:00 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Do many people do historically dressed dolls on occasion?  I've
> recently gotten interested in the topic via a side-door.  The
> woman I was dating at the end of last year gave me a "Heather doll"
> for Christmas, with outfits and accessories that matched some of my
> own stuff, and I got inspired to start making clothes for her from
> my archaeological garments project.  (So having started at the
> early end, I now have  "Egtved Heather" and  "Borum Eshøj Heather"
> outfits.) 

Before I got into costuming I made and dresses porcellaine dolls.  
I've made cloth colls since I was about 13 (inexpensve and 
personalised gifts for my sisters, niece and female cousins are a 
good thing to an impoverished teenager who can sew!) and have 
done several in historical clothes for friends' children to have 
something less "modern-looking" to play with at events (often 
dressed in outfits that match the child's costumes),  as prizes for 
fund-raising raffles etc... not had much time for it in recent years 
however.  There are two half-made ones in my "to do" pile which 
we were going to raffle to raise money for group equipment for a 
15th century re-enactment gtoup that I'm in but I never got aroudn 
to finishing them... and that was 2 years ago.


Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miniature Costumers Guild  [was: Pagan A/S Barbie]
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 06:39:08 -0400
Status: RO

I'm still up for that guild, Joan, but I think PA to CA is just a bit far to
travel for meetings. When I finish my Elizabethan Barbie, I'll let you know!

Dianne (who at only five feet tall is close to being a mini-costumer in both
senses of the word!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan Garner" <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Miniature Costumers Guild [was: Pagan A/S Barbie]


>
> --- Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU>
> wrote:
> > Do many people do historically dressed dolls on
> > occasion?
>
> I've recently been in touch with 5 other SCA people
> whose interest ranges from the humorous to serious
> "killer" costuming for dolls, trying to start the
> "Miniature Costumers Guild."  ...that is, of course,
> miniature costumes, not miniature costumers!
> The potential participants are scattered around the
> globe, so no tiresome meetings!  I'm in Vallejo, CA
> but I don't think any of the others are anywhere near
> me.
>
> Iohanna the Harpfer
> [Joan Hall]
>
> __________________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: impossible sleeves
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 22:22:52 +0930
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>With all this descussion of sleeves I've taken a closer look at a lot of pictures and have noticed something perculiar - a white strap or tape that goes over the shoulder. I've seen it in many tudor-era paintings. In one picture it appears to have clips on the ends which hold the skirt up.</DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg">http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg</A></DIV>
<DIV>Can anyone tell me the reason for this?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca Anderson</DIV>
<DIV>aka</DIV>
<DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM501201/11'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 06:20:47 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Ok, enough people appear to be reasonably serious
about this!  As the person temporarily in charge, here
are a couple things I have decided.  Feel free to
disagree or to say "But _I_ want to be Guildmistress!"
If it's the latter, I will give you my first-born son
-- he's a stockbroker and well-fixed financially and
recently single again!

Thus far everyone interested (all nine of us!) is SCA,
so I think we should try to be a "real" SCA group with
a ...dare I say it... device and everything.  If the
others agree, I will research whatever beaureaucratic
(never could spell that!) hoops we need to jump
through.  I will not invent our device -- I don't do
art.

I think that one joins by simply emailing me and
saying "I want to join."

I plan to make matching person-and-doll-size belt
pouch sets, to be given upon the group receiving a
photo of a doll you have garbed in SCA-period costume.
 This offer is assuming we stay small-ish.  If we get
bigger than 12, then the first 12 will be the
"Founding Members" and the pouches will just be for
them...I do have a job and a husband and a house, etc.

Once the group membership is settled, I think we need
to take a vote about strict period costuming vs.
fantasy, out-of-period, etc.

Since I plan to take this off-list now, I need to
learn how to make an email group.  

That's it for now. 

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

P.S.  I have not spoken of this to any of the Barbie
lists I'm on -- those people do mainly modern &
fantasy costuming.  I have never seen an accurate
historical costume done on these lists.  But we will
eventually need to decide re: non-SCA members.

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:25:33 +0200
Status: RO


Ooooh, Bjarne, it's beeyoootiful....<g>.....
Are you going to keep the same color scheme, or do something different?
Thanks for the pointers, and translation....I'm guessing, in my
undereducated, American way, that Swedish and Danish are similar,
linguistically? Do they belong to the same language family, the way that

French and Italian are both Romance languages?
--Sue
Dear Sue
Well both swedish, norwegian and danish are very similar, it has the
same origin  of language, and also because both Sweden, Norway and
Denmark once were 1 big country in medieval times when Margrethe I was
uniting the nordic countryes.
It very much depends on who you are. I grew up with television and i
looked at many children programmes from Sweden, so i learned the
language. There are many people in Jutland (provinse of Denmark) who
dont understand swedish, and there are many swedish people, especially
noth of Stockholm, who dont understand danish.

Bjarne (Your prickings is being send for you this saturday)


--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:30:45 -0500
Status: RO

There is a book that somewhat explores this topic, not in the SCA context,
but in different manifestations in cultural expressions of the 20th C.  It
is:

 Inventing the Middle Ages: The Lives, Works, and Ideas of the Great
Medievalists of the Twentieth Century
Norman F. Cantor
Paperback, 1st ed., 477pp.
ISBN: 0688123023
Publisher: Morrow,William & Co
Pub. Date: January  1993

----- Original Message -----
From: leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian Medieval


> Hi, All. As a side note, and don't take this wrong, anyone, but the SCA
has
> been dubbed, by quite a few folks in such diverse fields as sociology and
> psychology, as a Victorian Medieval group. The reason, I gather, is the
> Society's proclivity to romanticise the period "as it should have been,
not
> as it was...", etc. It is not surprising, then, that the Society
> occasionally spawns some "interesting" clothing abberations, a'la the
> PreRaphaelites. Having seen camoflage Elizabethan, a kilt made from Disney
> fabric and day-glo Landsknecht, I don't think that anything would surprise
> me. Amuse me, yes, but surprise....Mike T.


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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:43:50 BST
Status: RO

Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> wrote :

> Since I plan to take this off-list now, I need to
> learn how to make an email group.  

I've been looking into the various providers of this sort of service for other reasons: should it help, results so far are at:

http://www.williams.nildram.co.uk/groups.htm

And good luck!




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historically dressed dolls (WAS: Pagan Anglo-Saxon Barbie)
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:47:36 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
I have ben thinking about making some dolls like they made fashion dolls
in 18th. century. They were made of wood, wooden faces and arms/fingers,
but i could perhaps make them of papier machee. At an antique fair here
in Copenhagen, i saw a doll made like the english fashion dolls. It would
not have ben an original, then it would have ben a rarity, but the idea
came to me when i saw this. I think it was about 12 inches tall and
dressed in a robe a la francaise. Having this height it would not be
difficult to have the fabric to fall nicely.

My two cents..

Bjarne

Teddy wrote:

> > Do many people do historically dressed dolls on occasion?  I've
> > recently gotten interested in the topic via a side-door.  The
> > woman I was dating at the end of last year gave me a "Heather doll"
> > for Christmas, with outfits and accessories that matched some of my
> > own stuff, and I got inspired to start making clothes for her from
> > my archaeological garments project.  (So having started at the
> > early end, I now have  "Egtved Heather" and  "Borum Eshøj Heather"
> > outfits.)
>
> Before I got into costuming I made and dresses porcellaine dolls.
> I've made cloth colls since I was about 13 (inexpensve and
> personalised gifts for my sisters, niece and female cousins are a
> good thing to an impoverished teenager who can sew!) and have
> done several in historical clothes for friends' children to have
> something less "modern-looking" to play with at events (often
> dressed in outfits that match the child's costumes),  as prizes for
> fund-raising raffles etc... not had much time for it in recent years
> however.  There are two half-made ones in my "to do" pile which
> we were going to raffle to raise money for group equipment for a
> 15th century re-enactment gtoup that I'm in but I never got aroudn
> to finishing them... and that was 2 years ago.
>
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: [h-cost] Doll-makers in your area: Was- Miniature Costumers Guild
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 07:26:08 -0700
Status: RO

If anyone is interested, I can point you to many doll-makers in your
area.  There are folks who specialize in porcelain, and cloth.  Both
cover a huge spectrum of time and/or fantasy.  Some of these dolls look
so real it is hard to believe they are not life-sized.  A good reference
for cloth dolls (what I like of course) is a series of books by Susan
Oroyan.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/002-5339163-3722448


There are even "Doll Universities" every year where you go to classes!
If you are interested contact me off-line.

Fair warning however!!  It is another one of those past-times that is
addicting!!

Cheers,

Sg

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Subject: Re: impossible sleeves was Re: [h-cost] Re: the eBay dress
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:27:58 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 4/12/2002 12:32:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kat@grendal.rain.com writes:


> In other words, no matter how much extravagance is in the clothes, 
> they want it to be *in the clothes* where it can be seen, not on the 
> cutting room floor.
> 

Not to mention the person actually cutting out the garment was not an 
aristocrat.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/12/2002 12:32:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">In other words, no matter how much extravagance is in the clothes, 
<BR>they want it to be *in the clothes* where it can be seen, not on the 
<BR>cutting room floor.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Not to mention the person actually cutting out the garment was not an aristocrat.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:57:56 -0700
Status: RO

>With all this descussion of sleeves I've taken a closer look at a 
>lot of pictures and have noticed something perculiar - a white 
>strap or tape that goes over the shoulder. I've seen it in many 
>tudor-era paintings. In one picture it appears to have clips on the 
>ends which hold the skirt up.
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
>Can anyone tell me the reason for this?
This is often discussed but I doubt anyone really knows what it is. 
(Conjecture is not knowing.) That's why someone suggested that 
it might have something to do with the sleeve.

I'd have to check the archives to remember all the various 
permutations of possibilities that people have come up with, but a 
harness to hold up the skirt in back was one of them as I recall.

By the way, you might want to turn off the HTML in your mail 
output as it can really play havoc with people's computers. 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: [h-cost] The "Ebay Dress" - is this it?
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 09:49:33 -0700
Status: RO

I've long since lost the link to the original dress that spawned this furor, 
but... Is this it, right here?

http://store.museumreplicas.com/cgi-bin/www11650.filereader?3cb70f2803e43a32274dd8f5a506064d+EN/products/8145&2D1

Granted, I believe the ebay description said something about pearls, so they 
may have added a little embellishment... But I seem to remember it being 
this color and shape. The price seems about right as well.

-Laura

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 12 14:18:12 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The "Ebay Dress" - is this it?
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 12:10:09 -0500
Status: RO

Nope, that one does not even come close to the beauty of the other. It is a
replica of the movie costume that was used in Queen Margot, a french film,
based on the book Queen Margot by Alexandre Dumas père, 1831.

This is the dress, http://www.costumes.org/subwebs/mwbh/images/margot.jpg
and this is what was on ebay
http://abacus.sj.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_6d3e6b55ecf829c3853455a22/i-3.J
PG
Other movie costumes: www.costumes.org/subwebs/ mwbh/renaimovies.htm
More Margot costume pictures:
http://images.google.com/images?q=queen+margot&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kala Jathos" <matrixsinger@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:49 AM
Subject: [h-cost] The "Ebay Dress" - is this it?


> I've long since lost the link to the original dress that spawned this
furor,
> but... Is this it, right here?
>
>
http://store.museumreplicas.com/cgi-bin/www11650.filereader?3cb70f2803e43a32
274dd8f5a506064d+EN/products/8145&2D1
>
> Granted, I believe the ebay description said something about pearls, so
they
> may have added a little embellishment... But I seem to remember it being
> this color and shape. The price seems about right as well.
>
> -Laura
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 12 14:40:18 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Scandinavian Languages
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 10:35:04 -0700
Status: RO

At 08:38 PM 4/11/2002, you wrote:
>....I'm guessing, in my
>undereducated, American way, that Swedish and Danish are similar,
>linguistically? Do they belong to the same language family, the way that
>French and Italian are both Romance languages?
>--Sue

Swedish and Danish are quite similar.  They're both Germanic languages,
but closer to each other, and Norwegian, and Icelandic, than they are
to German, Dutch, or English (also a proto-Germanic language descendant,
believe it or not).

I've heard some people claim that spoken Danish and Swedish are mutually
comprehensible, but that's not true of my experience.  That is, I speak
fluent Swedish but find spoken Danish almost totally opaque.  There are
too many weird vowel changes, among other stuff.  I can generally
muddle through *written* Danish okay, though.  For spoken languages,
I think Swedish and Norwegian are much more mutually comprehensible,
though you get weird infelicities, as in the Norwegian for "pull" looks
a lot like the Swedish for "push".

To drag things back vaguely to costuming, the English word "berserk"
comes from Scandinavian, presumably by way of the Vikings:
it means "bear shirt".




  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 19:51:16 +0200
Status: RO


--------------F378785D7B40F2DB622E0488
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

This was the dress

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1089872144

Much more beautifull.

Greetings,
        Deredere

Kala Jathos wrote:

> I've long since lost the link to the original dress that spawned this furor,
> but... Is this it, right here?
>
> http://store.museumreplicas.com/cgi-bin/www11650.filereader?3cb70f2803e43a32274dd8f5a506064d+EN/products/8145&2D1
>
> Granted, I believe the ebay description said something about pearls, so they
> may have added a little embellishment... But I seem to remember it being
> this color and shape. The price seems about right as well.
>
> -Laura
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
This was the dress
<p><A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1089872144">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=1089872144</A>
<p>Much more beautifull.
<p>Greetings,
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere
<p>Kala Jathos wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>I've long since lost the link to the original dress
that spawned this furor,
<br>but... Is this it, right here?
<p><a href="http://store.museumreplicas.com/cgi-bin/www11650.filereader?3cb70f2803e43a32274dd8f5a506064d+EN/products/8145&2D1">http://store.museumreplicas.com/cgi-bin/www11650.filereader?3cb70f2803e43a32274dd8f5a506064d+EN/products/8145&amp;2D1</a>
<p>Granted, I believe the ebay description said something about pearls,
so they
<br>may have added a little embellishment... But I seem to remember it
being
<br>this color and shape. The price seems about right as well.
<p>-Laura
<p>_________________________________________________________________
<br>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a href="http://mobile.msn.com">http://mobile.msn.com</a>
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In a message dated 4/12/2002 1:15:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, chiara@io.com 
writes:


> http://store.museumreplicas.com/cgi-bin/www11650.filereader?3cb70f2803e43a32
> 274dd8f5a506064d+EN/products/8145&2D1
> 

Ewwwwwww!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/12/2002 1:15:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, chiara@io.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://store.museumreplicas.com/cgi-bin/www11650.filereader?3cb70f2803e43a32
<BR>274dd8f5a506064d+EN/products/8145&amp;2D1
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Ewwwwwww!</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:16:08 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks to all of you who have sent me such warm welcomes to the list today &
yesterday.
My husband has just got home from a business trip & I haven't had much time
for replies...

Regards,
Nan


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Subject: [h-cost] Spanish Historic Garb
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:32:42 -0500
Status: RO


Here is a site for the lady who wanted info on Spanish  Garb.  It is an all
Spanish site & I am unable to translate.  There are lots of drawings,
though!

http://www.historiaviva.org/vestimenta

enjoy!

Nan

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Subject: [h-cost] Historic Fashion Dolls
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:23:59 -0500
Status: RO

Joan,

You may already have to decide about the SCA thingie as I haven't rejoined
yet, But I would be interested in a historic dolls club, thingie.
May rejoin the SCA eventually -- who knows?

Barbie's aren't period -- how are you planning on getting them past the
period cops who abounded in the group that I used to belong to?

Regards,
Nan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish Historic Garb
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:15:59 -0400
Status: RO

There is an option to view it in english.
laurie
> 
> Here is a site for the lady who wanted info on Spanish  Garb.  It is an all
> Spanish site & I am unable to translate.  There are lots of drawings,
> though!
> 
> http://www.historiaviva.org/vestimenta
> 
> enjoy!
> 
> Nan
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Fashion Dolls
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:47:47 -0700
Status: RO


>Barbie's aren't period -- how are you planning on getting them past the
>period cops who abounded in the group that I used to belong to?

Neither is arriving at an event in a motor vehicle, which I'm sure those 
self-styled period cops did.  Saying ' that's not period' isn't period either.


Kayta
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Fashion Dolls
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 20:25:30 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings!

> >Barbie's aren't period -- how are you planning on getting them past the
> >period cops who abounded in the group that I used to belong to?

The best response I know to "that's not period" is "I know."  Then smile
sweetly. That takes away the "knowledge is power" trip that most snarks are
on. (Don't get me wrong--I believe in standards and authenticity, but I also
believe there are much better ways to make it happen).

In any case, while Barbie dolls are not period for the SCA period (the group
I play with), dolls to demonstrate the latest fashions are indeed period for
at least the 16th century. So while I don't think you're ever going to be
able to corset Barbie into the correct Elizabethan shape, and while I don't
think the Elizabethan versions ever went on a date with Ken, the *concept*
of Barbie is a lot closer to this particular period than some might think.

Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: impossible sleeves
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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 13:25:30 +1200
Status: RO

> I'd have to check the archives to remember all the various
> permutations of possibilities that people have come up with, but a
> harness to hold up the skirt in back was one of them as I recall.

Except that in a lot of paintings it ends in full view at the front and
isn't connected to anything at all. And you can see pins in them
occasionally, not really strong enough to hold up the full weight of a
skirt.
So I'm thinking that the thing seen in the Holbein sketch did have a real
structural purpose and could be related to the other white things.. but the
the other white.. things don't serve the same purpose.

While English aristocracy at this time probably really didn't want to wear
anything that looked like something worn by the working classes, perhaps a
later analogy might be all the "rustic" dresses worn by Marie Antoinette and
co.? Which were in fact totally unsuitable to milk a cow in;). A purely
decorative representation of something that was actually useful?

Or then it might simply appear to our eyes as looking similar, but in fact
are totally unrelated....

> By the way, you might want to turn off the HTML in your mail
> output as it can really play havoc with people's computers.

And could people not send onliners? Twice today I've scrolled down messages
only to find a few words which really did not contribute to any discussion.

michaela

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:51:11 -0700
Status: RO


>(Don't get me wrong--I believe in standards and authenticity, but I also
>believe there are much better ways to make it happen).

You're correct - there are much better ways than by displaying 
rudeness.  And I never doubted your standards.

Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Spanish Court Dress, pleats revisted;)
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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 15:05:19 +1200
Status: RO

Kia ora all,

I was looking trough my costume files and found the pattern for a Spanish
Court Dress in Davenport's "Book of Costume" which I have always loved and
thinking about recreating. Then I tried to find info on the net.. which lead
nowhere fast but lead me to the discussion on the horizontal lines seen in
the front of late 16thC Spanish court costume.

I have Blanche Payne's patterns from the back of the 1st ed. of her History
of Costume and Draft 6a and b show a pattern for a childs Spanish dress from
this time.
The front of the skirt does not have a pleat/tuck but the *back* does. And
it's graduated, and curved.

Taking a better look at the front of the gowns in portraits I see that the
skirt appears curved at the hems, and the line would create a segment with
the hem if the curve and line were extended till they touched.
http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1580_1.shtml
Shows this perfectly. You can see pattern of the skirt isinterupted by the
border in a curved way. And that the tuck also interupts the pattern so it
was done after the border was applied too.

See how the tuck ends atthe side, and how after it seems to end the fabric
of the skirt falls in folds? Could it be this tuck served to  hold the skirt
smooth in front in some way? Maybe it was pinned/tacked to the farthingale?
or a cord ran through it.. or... anyway it seems to serve a purpose other
than shortening the skirt length.

I chose a bad day to write as I feel very I wouldn't say empty but muddled
and can't focus of things well. It's probably because my sleeping apattern
is completely out of whack and my brain thinks I should be sleeping.

But I just wanted you to know I didn't forget but technology got in the
way.. again.

Please write to let us know how you are now.

Love Mickey
Mum and Chris send their love too.


o what is interesting about this childs pattern is that where the fabric
is not seen (back of body, skirt and top of undersleeve) it is plain linen,
while that which is seen is heavily embroidered.. but no note as to what
material.

Seems a sensible economic approach, if somewhat inconguously practical in
this style of dress;).




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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 23:22:56 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. Since the SCA isn't a real historical reenactment group, and has no
costume/clothing standards other than an attempt at pre-17th Cent. clothing,
what is the difference? If you want to voluntarily be more authentic, I applaud
it, and recommend looking into documentation for styles and shapes of dolls from
the various periods that still exist (I have seen a few, and will provide info
on request). If you just want to create costume for dolls, that is great, too. I
hope that I never am found going to someone unasked and pointing out the
obvious, for a multiplicity of reasons, but I would suggest that, if you can, go
ahead and try and use historical documentation for your historic costume. That
way, as Susan pointed out, you can begin with the correct shape and silhouette,
which is, as most costumers are aware, a fundamental aspect of the design of
clothing. And besides, except for creating (or recreating), the thing that
stands out in this group is it's committment to history, yes?  Mike T.



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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Fashion Dolls
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 20:48:14 -0700
Status: RO


>documentation for styles and shapes of dolls from
>the various periods that still exist (I have seen a few, and will provide info
>on request).

Am interested, both in images online and in book titles/ISBNs.

You do know that rod puppets, hand puppets, and some forms of 
string-operated puppets are SCA period, as is the profession of 
doll-maker?  The earliest paper dolls I have seen are from the 1630's.

Kayta
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   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Apr 13 05:24:52 2002
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Gustav III wedding suit
From: "ruiyin" <ruiyin@ivillage.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustav III wedding suit
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_______________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE email account at iVillage.com!
http://webmail.ivillage.com/=20

<-----Original Message----->
>=20
> From: Kate M Bunting
> At the risk of jumping the gun on our Scandinavian members - Swedish,
Danish and Norwegian are all=20
> very similar

They are, I speak Swedish and am able to read both Danish and Norwegian
but hardly understand anything when I hear them spoken. Norwegian
written language is very similar to Danish, but I=B4m not going to start
the discussion what is a language and what is a dialect -- I=B4m not an
expert and anyway it=B4s too off-topic.

> BYW, my Swedish dictionary translates "dr"akt" as "dress" too, but the
original heading of this thread=20
> made me smile, visualising King Gustav in a bridal gown!

To keep this on-topic, I always thought all the different words for male
and female garments were very confusing in English. I never know which
word to use even when discussing modern wear, not to mention different
periods in history. But I would like to see Gustav III in that panier
dress in Livrustkammarens main page.

Riina



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<font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Get your own FREE email account at iVillage.com!<br>http://webmail.ivillage.com/  </font><BR><BR><-----Original Message-----><BR>>  <BR>> From: Kate M Bunting<BR>> At the risk of jumping the gun on our Scandinavian members - Swedish, Danish and Norwegian are all <BR>> very similar<BR><BR>They are, I speak Swedish and am able to read both Danish and Norwegian but hardly understand anything when I hear them spoken. Norwegian written language is very similar to Danish, but I´m not going to start the discussion what is a language and what is a dialect -- I´m not an expert and anyway it´s too off-topic.<BR><BR>> BYW, my Swedish dictionary translates "dr"akt"  as "dress" too, but the original heading of this thread <BR>> made me smile, visualising King Gustav in a bridal gown!<BR><BR>To keep this on-topic, I always thought all the different!
 words for male and female garments were very confusing in English. I never know which word to use even when discussing modern wear, not to mention different periods in history. But I would like to see Gustav III in that panier dress in Livrustkammarens main page.<BR><BR>Riina<BR><BR>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Apr 13 08:51:00 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Spanish Court Dress, pleats revisted;)
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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 23:44:15 +1200
Status: RO

OK.. teaches me never to have two emails open at once especially when I've
admitted to being totally off form today too.. not only did I not finish
what I wanted to say, but inserted a bit of a private email to my brother
over in Oz.. thank goodness it was merely the end of the email.. anyway
below is what I had written minus the stuff to my brother. I was hoping to
find some more examples of the tuck to illustrate and expand on what I had
written but now I'm too embarassed to go any further;)

michaela



> Kia ora all,
>
> I was looking trough my costume files and found the pattern for a Spanish
> Court Dress in Davenport's "Book of Costume" which I have always loved and
> thinking about recreating. Then I tried to find info on the net.. which
lead
> nowhere fast but lead me to the discussion on the horizontal lines seen in
> the front of late 16thC Spanish court costume.
>
> I have Blanche Payne's patterns from the back of the 1st ed. of her
History
> of Costume and Draft 6a and b show a pattern for a childs Spanish dress
from
> this time.
> The front of the skirt does not have a pleat/tuck but the *back* does. And
> it's graduated, and curved.
>
> Taking a better look at the front of the gowns in portraits I see that the
> skirt appears curved at the hems, and the line would create a segment with
> the hem if the curve and line were extended till they touched.
> http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1580_1.shtml
> Shows this perfectly. You can see pattern of the skirt isinterupted by the
> border in a curved way. And that the tuck also interupts the pattern so it
> was done after the border was applied too.
>
> See how the tuck ends at the side, and how after it seems to end the
fabric
> of the skirt falls in folds? Could it be this tuck served to  hold the
skirt
> smooth in front in some way? Maybe it was pinned/tacked to the
farthingale?
> or a cord ran through it.. or... anyway it seems to serve a purpose other
> than shortening the skirt length.
>

> o what is interesting about this childs pattern is that where the fabric
> is not seen (back of body, skirt and top of undersleeve) it is plain
linen,
> while that which is seen is heavily embroidered.. but no note as to what
> material.
>
> Seems a sensible economic approach, if somewhat inconguously practical in
> this style of dress;).
>
>
>
>



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Apr 13 10:10:53 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1 Looking for information on Swiss clothing
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Sorry to answer this message so late.  Holbein did 5 or 6 edgings on Swiss 
Ladies, it was called a costume study.  If you cannot find those pictures I 
have them in a Holbein exhibit book.  If I am not mistaken the exhibit was in 
Basel Switzerland.
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Sorry to answer this message so late. &nbsp;Holbein did 5 or 6 edgings on Swiss Ladies, it was called a costume study. &nbsp;If you cannot find those pictures I have them in a Holbein exhibit book. &nbsp;If I am not mistaken the exhibit was in Basel Switzerland.
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: impossible sleeves
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:09:01 +0100
Status: RO

We had a huge discussion on these white things a while back, and nobody 
knew what they were.  There aren't enough pictures of people's backs (as 
ever).  I'm inclined to think they're a non-functional relic of some 
earlier item - maybe a small shawl?

I've looked very closely at this picture, because I was doing that 
style, and I'm pretty sure the clips are on a separate piece.  The 
straps over the shoulders appear to be pinned down the sides and finish 
just above waist level.  I've tried the overall arrangement of skirts 
with my similar dress, and I reckon with a bumroll the strap with the 
clips on would just go round the back of the waist and stay there.  I 
don't wear a bumroll, and I don't have a natural shelf, so I cheated 
with a belt loop centre back.

Jean

Rebecca Anderson <lady_adele@hotmail.com> wrote
>With all this descussion of sleeves I've taken a closer look at a lot of
>pictures and have noticed something perculiar - a white strap or tape that
>goes over the shoulder. I've seen it in many tudor-era paintings. In one
>picture it appears to have clips on the ends which hold the skirt up.
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
>Can anyone tell me the reason for this?
> 
>Rebecca Anderson
>aka
>Lady Adele Anders
>
>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here
>_______________________________________________ h-costume
>mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: impossible sleeves
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:09:01 +0100
Status: RO

We had a huge discussion on these white things a while back, and nobody 
knew what they were.  There aren't enough pictures of people's backs (as 
ever).  I'm inclined to think they're a non-functional relic of some 
earlier item - maybe a small shawl?

I've looked very closely at this picture, because I was doing that 
style, and I'm pretty sure the clips are on a separate piece.  The 
straps over the shoulders appear to be pinned down the sides and finish 
just above waist level.  I've tried the overall arrangement of skirts 
with my similar dress, and I reckon with a bumroll the strap with the 
clips on would just go round the back of the waist and stay there.  I 
don't wear a bumroll, and I don't have a natural shelf, so I cheated 
with a belt loop centre back.

Jean

Rebecca Anderson <lady_adele@hotmail.com> wrote
>With all this descussion of sleeves I've taken a closer look at a lot of
>pictures and have noticed something perculiar - a white strap or tape that
>goes over the shoulder. I've seen it in many tudor-era paintings. In one
>picture it appears to have clips on the ends which hold the skirt up.
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
>Can anyone tell me the reason for this?
> 
>Rebecca Anderson
>aka
>Lady Adele Anders
>
>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here
>_______________________________________________ h-costume
>mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Apr 13 14:25:55 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: impossible sleeves
From: Sarah Lorraine <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 10:21:49 -0700
Status: RO

on 4/12/02 1:09 PM, Jean Waddie at anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk wrote:

> We had a huge discussion on these white things a while back, and nobody
> knew what they were.  There aren't enough pictures of people's backs (as
> ever).  I'm inclined to think they're a non-functional relic of some
> earlier item - maybe a small shawl?


I'm forgetting who mentioned this, but it was a few days ago... The theory
of single piece/draped sleeves, remember?  Well, initially I think I was
reading the post and misunderstanding the nature of the construction that
was being discussed (I'm too much a visual person) but my mind made a leap
from that description to those white straps... What if the white straps
*were* functional (at least initially) in that they were designed to keep
the sleeves from falling off the shoulders?  Maybe it's a giant leap, but
for someone who has been obsessing about these blasted things for years now,
it's no less implausible than any other suggestion I've heard.  Perhaps once
I'm am done murdering the current gown project (or it's murdering me, to be
more exact) I'll go back and really dig for early examples of the white
straps on early Tudor style gowns and see if I can draw some better
connections here.  Just idly theorizing at the moment, it could be argued
that those white straps were hung onto as an accessory in later Tudor
styles, even after fitting became more precise.

And out of curiosity... Has anyone ever observed these white straps on women
from countries other than England?  To the best of my knowledge, there is
only one other portrait of a Florentine woman that has what looks like white
straps, but I'm not convinced that they are what they appear to be.  Okay,
enough of my rambling... :)

Sarah

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: jeweled square???
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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 23:12:35 EDT
Status: RO


<< As I noted a while back, in Aileen Ribeiro's "Gallery of Fashion"on
 page 34 she states that "the
 jewelled "square" holding the neckline in place prevents the heavy
 sleeves
 from slipping off the shoulders".>>

OK, I don't have this book, so what "jeweled square" are we talking about?  
Can you link me to a pic online?  

I just came back from Barnes & Noble where I found a book of costuming 
through history.  The author was not at all informed, using words like 
"bonnet" for "caul", etc, but the book WAS filled with period paintings!  One 
showed a 16th Century party where most of the women wore dresses with open 
ruffs and the way the skirts draped suggested a wheel farthingale.  The nice 
part about the painting was how it showed the backs of dresses.  To support 
an open ruff, the dresses had full fabric backs, and from extant garments I 
understand there should be to holes in the dress at the top where the ruff 
laces in place.  Many gowns had a large --often square-- jewelled brooch dead 
center between the shoulder blades with a ribbon or cord extending from it on 
either side to the shoulders.  Is this what you are referring to?

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: SCA 2003 Known World Costume Symposium
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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 23:16:59 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 4/9/02 6:44:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< And I just heard that the same bunch o' people won the bid for the SCA's
 2003 Known World Costume Symposium, to be in October in Denver. Should be
 a blast ;-)
  >>

As an SCA newbie, I didn't know we had an annual costume symposium.  Cool!  
But...  Denver?  That's nowhere near Boston...  *sigh*

Are there pics of past events somewhere on the net?

--Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Fashion Dolls
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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 23:48:47 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, Katya. Looked at both the images. I like your standard Landsknecht, very nice.
The 60's Landsknecht is, well, what can you say, but.... LOUD! Wow! I didn't think
I could see in that wavelength! The pluderhose with the ribbon codpiece are very
nice, as is the doublet. I have a few cross-dressing friends that would be quite
impressed with your work. You are not the person I had originally seen, though,
although I must say that you hurt my eyes far worse than the other fellow. Well
done. Docs on historical dolls off the top of my head as follows: Richard Hackluit
" The True Pictures and Fashions of the People in that Parte of America Now Called
Virginia..."  1588 Copperplates by Theodore de Bry Plate VIII " A cheiff Ladye of
Pomeiooc" shows a Powhatan girl with a doll and a rattle, both European made. The
text reads " They are greatlye Deligted with puppetts, and babes which wear brought
oute of England".
Jan Steen "The Feast of St. Nicholas" dated 1660 in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam
shows a little girl with a doll modelled after St. Nicholas, perhaps more a toy
than a religious icon. It has a solid base like a statue.
The book "Pride and Joy; Children's Portraits in the Netherlands 1500-1700" ed. Jan
Baptist Bedaux and Rudi Ekkart 2000 Harry Abrams Pubs. NY  ISBN 0-8109-6730-8  has
an entire chapter dedicated to Children's Toys. It states that "The first occurence
of a doll in a portrait is that of Isabella, one of the three children of Archduke
Philip the Handsome and his wife Joan "the Mad" of Aragon." The three illos in this
book of dolls are dated 1502, 1591 and 1596, with another dated 1660 that has two
dolls as well as furniture. I am searching for an archaeological catalog that I
recently got that has a picture of an excavated doll's head and torso, made out of
wood and dated, IIRC, to the late 16th Cent. When and if the fog clears and I
remember where I saw it, I'll get back to you. If you can't find these images on a
websearch or other means, I can send them to you. Let me know if you need them.
Cheers, Mike T.



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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 23:59:47 -0400
Status: RO

Well, now, how did that one slip by? This was supposed to be a private message. Sorry,
everyone, for the confusion. Sorry, Katya, I thought I replied to you personally. I'm a
bonehead (but you knew that...)  Mike T.



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: impossible sleeves + new question
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 00:08:13 EDT
Status: RO


Looking at at painting c. 1570 London (unnamed artist), courtesy of "What 
Life Was Like in the Realm of Elizabeth" by Time/Life...  The dresses in this 
painting have those same rolls half-off the shoulder.  2 ladies have their 
backs to us, showing a straight horizontal neckline line that is simply 
higher (a hand's width maybe?) than the bustline in the front -- no V's.  
This is a relief, seeing as how that's what I did on the dress I'm making.  I 
cannot make out any lacing up the back, however...  Should my dress be 
opening up the front instead?  Take a look at the "Pelican Portrait" below.  

http://www.tudorhistory.org/elizabeth/pelican.jpg

Could it be that these dresses opened in front with hooks and eyes instead?  
The trim pattern could support such an idea...  Please tell me BEFORE I cut 
my fabric!

Thanks,
Gillian
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: SCA 2003 Known World Costume Symposium
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 00:12:33 -0400
Status: RO

Don't worry, it moves around. Last year it was in Indiana, this year I
believe it's in Michigan, and next year is Denver.  There is a Yahoo
group dedicated to it, check it out here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KWCostume_Symposium/

For pictures of some of the attendees, go here:
http://www.geocities.com/mr_mcclane/costume/kwcs00.html

It was a lot of fun. Unfortunately I'll have to miss out on this year's
event. I'm hoping that whoever gets it for 2004 is on the east coast. I
drove 14 hours to get to Indiana, did the event on Saturday, and then
drove home. Boy was I tired!

Linda

  >>

As an SCA newbie, I didn't know we had an annual costume symposium.
Cool!  
But...  Denver?  That's nowhere near Boston...  *sigh*

Are there pics of past events somewhere on the net?

--Gillian



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: more "jewelled square?"
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 00:39:00 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 4/10/02 12:28:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< Indeed, though the square of jewels is present in all the portraits
 that I have found of that  fashion. Take a look at the portrait of
 Elizabeth as princess
 (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth%20I%20P.jpg)
  >>

Looking at the portrait above, are we talking about her square brooch, or the 
square neckline of the dress-- which is also jewelled?  In either case, I'm 
having trouble understanding how they keep the sleeves in place.  I've used 
my own brooch to keep my embroidered smock edge peeking up out of my bodice, 
as seen in portraits of Elizabeth I.  For that, I just pin through both the 
bodice and smock.  But that would not help the sleeves in any way, so I'm 
guessing then you mean the neckline of the gown.  I did not think the jewels 
were linked by metal, however.  I had thought the jewels were just sewn 
individually to the edge like trim.  

Confused...
Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan corsets (WAS impossible sleeves/eBay dress)
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 01:32:29 EDT
Status: RO

<< Actually, verifiable corsets from that period are non-existent, and
 thus I am somewhat surprised by your apparent conviction that you know
 what the corsets actually did to the breasts.  >>

MY Elizabethan corset doesn't push the breasts down...  Going from the term 
"straight-bodied" for the French gown listed in QE I's wardrobe, I made a 
corset that is straight in front -- no princess seams, no curves at all.  
It's made of 2 layers of fabric sewn together to create the boning channels, 
then edged with bias.    The only seams are where each strap attaches to the 
body in back!  The effect is a very narrow body down to the waist on the 
sides and back, down  to the abdomin in front.  From a profile, it would look 
like the front was a straight line pointing up towards the 2 on a standard 
clock.  Once cinched, I then have to use my hands to lift each breast to the 
desired cleavage -- where it stays even though I'm a small size.  They ARE 
flattened, but that just makes them pop upward.  The shape looks just like 
the shapes of gowns from portraits of Elizabeth.  For my gown, then, I used 
the same pattern, but filled in the area from the straps to the armscye.  
Wearing a corset in the same shape as your gowns allows you to use less 
boning in each gown, saving you money.  Did they wear corsets, though?  The 
effigy corset page below would probably be a good place to check on the 
documentability of corsets in 16th Century England.  

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/effigy.htm

--Gillian
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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jeweled square???
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 02:35:48 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings,

Well, the author may not be as uninformed as you might think.  I've been 
doing a lot of research with 16th century English wills and haven't yet 
come across the term "caul."  However, I have found a number of mentions of 
bonnets...  So, it is a possibility.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:12 PM 4/13/2002 -0400, you wrote:

<snip>

>I just came back from Barnes & Noble where I found a book of costuming
>through history.  The author was not at all informed, using words like
>"bonnet" for "caul", etc, but the book WAS filled with period paintings!  One
>showed a 16th Century party where most of the women wore dresses with open
>ruffs and the way the skirts draped suggested a wheel farthingale.  The nice
>part about the painting was how it showed the backs of dresses.  To support
>an open ruff, the dresses had full fabric backs, and from extant garments I
>understand there should be to holes in the dress at the top where the ruff
>laces in place.  Many gowns had a large --often square-- jewelled brooch dead
>center between the shoulder blades with a ribbon or cord extending from it on
>either side to the shoulders.  Is this what you are referring to?
>
>--Gillian

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:10:31 EDT
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--part1_24.23e77bd0.29eae7d7_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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In a message dated 4/14/2002 1:33:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
Azelana@aol.com writes:


> Once cinched, I then have to use my hands to lift each breast to the=20
> desired cleavage -- where it stays even though I'm a small size.  They ARE=
=20
> flattened, but that just makes them pop upward.=20

But you're not supposed to have cleavage. Yes, they are smashed flat but not=
=20
lifted up...like a Wonder Bra. And if you look at gowns a little after=20
Elizabeth I, which are cut essentially the same but with a scooped neckline,=
=20
the breast definitely looks pushed down...or just flat....but not up.

This all hoopla came about because I called the neckline a d=E9colletage, wh=
ich=20
I STILL say it is, because it's not high.

--part1_24.23e77bd0.29eae7d7_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3D3=
>In a message dated 4/14/2002 1:33:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Azelana@aol.=
com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Once cinched, I then have t=
o use my hands to lift each breast to the=20
<BR>desired cleavage -- where it stays even though I'm a small size. &nbsp;T=
hey ARE=20
<BR>flattened, but that just makes them pop upward. </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#=
000000" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE=
>
<BR>
<BR>But you're not supposed to have cleavage. Yes, they are smashed flat but=
 not lifted up...like a Wonder Bra. And if you look at gowns a little after=20=
Elizabeth I, which are cut essentially the same but with a scooped neckline,=
 the breast definitely looks pushed down...or just flat....but not up.
<BR>
<BR>This all hoopla came about because I called the neckline a d=E9colletage=
, which I STILL say it is, because it's not high.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_24.23e77bd0.29eae7d7_boundary--
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 01:47:03 +1000
Status: RO


It's been done....there's a Victorian corset in Gladiator,

-C.
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From: Gary Walker <gerekr@ravensgard.org>
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:11:18 -0700
Status: RO

Will be on Oregon PBS at the end of the month, starting to see a lot of
promos.  Just saw an "ad" featuring a LOT of ladies and teen-age girls in
their camisoles (waist length, at least one with corset over), and gents
working shirtless...  (obviously summer)

somehow this just doesn't jibe with my preconceptions, vague and uninformed
as the are (I'm a lot better at 7th-13thC!), of how people of the period
(they're supposed to be sometime ACW-to-early-Victorian) would have dealt
with hot weather or sweaty work...

My husband also ran his same rant as at the Victorian House -- these are
interesting but really just sensationalist journalism, because they throw
these modern people into these situations without any real training of how
to do the everyday things that period people grew up knowing how to do from
childhood!  And then everything goes to heck in a handbasket, they almost
starve, injure themselves, are miserable without the modern world -- setting
the average audience up for "see how much better we have it now, wasn't it
awful then"

Has anyone seen this yet, elsewhere in the country, or is all of PBS doing
it ... April 29-May 1 (with a full repeat on Sunday May 5, here in Oregon,
anyway)

Patsy in Eugene OR

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jeweled square???
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:12:58 +0100
Status: RO

Azelana@aol.com wrote
>
><< As I noted a while back, in Aileen Ribeiro's "Gallery of Fashion"on
> page 34 she states that "the
> jewelled "square" holding the neckline in place prevents the heavy
> sleeves
> from slipping off the shoulders".>>
>
>OK, I don't have this book, so what "jeweled square" are we talking about?
>Can you link me to a pic online?
>
>I just came back from Barnes & Noble where I found a book of costuming
>through history.  The author was not at all informed, using words like
>"bonnet" for "caul", etc, but the book WAS filled with period paintings!  One
>showed a 16th Century party where most of the women wore dresses with open
>ruffs and the way the skirts draped suggested a wheel farthingale.  The nice
>part about the painting was how it showed the backs of dresses.  To support
>an open ruff, the dresses had full fabric backs, and from extant garments I
>understand there should be to holes in the dress at the top where the ruff
>laces in place.  Many gowns had a large --often square-- jewelled brooch dead
>center between the shoulder blades with a ribbon or cord extending from it on
>either side to the shoulders.  Is this what you are referring to?
>
>--Gillian

Ooh, this sounds interesting.  Can you tell us the painter and name of 
the painting, so we can go and look for it elsewhere?  I don't think 
I've seen this brooch and cord arrangement before.

I believe the jewelled square referred to is the jewelled decoration 
around the square neckline.  Obviously Aileen Ribeiro believes this is a 
rigid thing that would stop the neckline shifting.  Personally I think 
it's unlikely, but everyone's entitled to their own theory, in the 
absence of useful contemporary writings telling us all the technical 
details!!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jeweled square???
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:12:58 +0100
Status: RO

Azelana@aol.com wrote
>
><< As I noted a while back, in Aileen Ribeiro's "Gallery of Fashion"on
> page 34 she states that "the
> jewelled "square" holding the neckline in place prevents the heavy
> sleeves
> from slipping off the shoulders".>>
>
>OK, I don't have this book, so what "jeweled square" are we talking about?
>Can you link me to a pic online?
>
>I just came back from Barnes & Noble where I found a book of costuming
>through history.  The author was not at all informed, using words like
>"bonnet" for "caul", etc, but the book WAS filled with period paintings!  One
>showed a 16th Century party where most of the women wore dresses with open
>ruffs and the way the skirts draped suggested a wheel farthingale.  The nice
>part about the painting was how it showed the backs of dresses.  To support
>an open ruff, the dresses had full fabric backs, and from extant garments I
>understand there should be to holes in the dress at the top where the ruff
>laces in place.  Many gowns had a large --often square-- jewelled brooch dead
>center between the shoulder blades with a ribbon or cord extending from it on
>either side to the shoulders.  Is this what you are referring to?
>
>--Gillian

Ooh, this sounds interesting.  Can you tell us the painter and name of 
the painting, so we can go and look for it elsewhere?  I don't think 
I've seen this brooch and cord arrangement before.

I believe the jewelled square referred to is the jewelled decoration 
around the square neckline.  Obviously Aileen Ribeiro believes this is a 
rigid thing that would stop the neckline shifting.  Personally I think 
it's unlikely, but everyone's entitled to their own theory, in the 
absence of useful contemporary writings telling us all the technical 
details!!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: lilinah@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan corsets (WAS impossible sleeves/eBay
 dress)
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 11:51:49 -0700
Status: RO

Azelana@aol.com wrote:
>MY Elizabethan corset doesn't push the breasts down...  Going from the term
>"straight-bodied" for the French gown listed in QE I's wardrobe, I made a
>corset that is straight in front -- no princess seams, no curves at all.
>It's made of 2 layers of fabric sewn together to create the boning channels,
>then edged with bias.    The only seams are where each strap attaches to the
>body in back!  The effect is a very narrow body down to the waist on the
>sides and back, down  to the abdomin in front.  From a profile, it would look
>like the front was a straight line pointing up towards the 2 on a standard
>clock.

Are the straps on your "corset" or on the bodice of your gown?

>Once cinched, I then have to use my hands to lift each breast to the
>desired cleavage -- where it stays even though I'm a small size.  They ARE
>flattened, but that just makes them pop upward.

But, see, you are lifting and relocating them after the corset 
flattens them :-)

I work at Ren Faires, and nowhere in Elizabethan art do i see the 
eye-gouging tits-out look of most female Ren Faire actors. I am a DD 
yet i do NOT have "that look" because i adjust my breasts so they are 
comfortable but NOT oozing over the top of my corset. Elizabethan 
women did not look like Jayne Mansfield, no matter how well-endowed 
they were. I consider that look to be a "Ren Fair-ism".

While i'm not quite with Albert Cat on the squashed flat thing, a 
properly fitted Elizabethan corset does NOT produce the 
melons-on-a-platter look that i see at Ren Fairs and in the SCA.

>Wearing a corset in the same shape as your gowns allows you to use less
>boning in each gown, saving you money.

One way i achieve an appropriate look without poking someone in the 
face (not because i'm a prude, but because it is WRONG for 
Elizabethan) is boning the bodice as well as wearing a boned corset. 
That way my alabaster orbs are appropriately located and covered.

If "tits up, girls" was right for Elizabethan, i'd do it, but it 
isn't. Corsets weren't there to pop flesh "over the top", they were 
for support and to give an appropriate line and smoothness to the 
outer garments. The firm, even stiff,  smoothness of the basic 
garment look is not enhanced by having 2 soft jiggly half-moons 
sticking out over the upper edge of the gown front.

>Did they wear corsets, though?

Well, they weren't called corsets. Women in the higher classes wore 
"a pair of bodies".

As far as i can tell, lower middle class women and working women 
didn't wear them, but i also suspect that their doublets or "bodices" 
were stiffly lined and/or incorporated stays of some sort. Even the 
upper class women's "pairs of bodies" didn't use the metal stays we 
use now, either, they usually used some sort of plant matter - clumps 
of rushes, for example, material that i imagine would be available to 
other women as well.

Modesty Thorneycroft / Philomel Fernley (at Ren Fairs)
Anahita al-Qurtubiyya bint 'abd al-Karim al-Fassi (in the SCA)
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From: AlbertCat@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan corsets (WAS impossible sleeves/eBay dress)
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:43:50 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_131.c2f9c20.29eb35f6_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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In a message dated 4/14/2002 2:54:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lilinah@earthlink.net writes:


> While i'm not quite with Albert Cat on the squashed flat thing, a 
> properly fitted Elizabethan corset does NOT produce the 
> melons-on-a-platter look that i see at Ren Fairs and in the SCA.
> 

We are in more agreement than you might suppose. I'm not speaking from 
experience, like you. I've never worn Elizabethan Drag. But your more 
informed description is just what I mean.

--part1_131.c2f9c20.29eb35f6_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/14/2002 2:54:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lilinah@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">While i'm not quite with Albert Cat on the squashed flat thing, a 
<BR>properly fitted Elizabethan corset does NOT produce the 
<BR>melons-on-a-platter look that i see at Ren Fairs and in the SCA.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>We are in more agreement than you might suppose. I'm not speaking from experience, like you. I've never worn Elizabethan Drag. But your more informed description is just what I mean.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_131.c2f9c20.29eb35f6_boundary--
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From: "Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" <mantuamaker@garbersoft.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] re: pelican-type bodice
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 21:59:09 -0700
Status: RO

> Could it be that these dresses opened in front with hooks and eyes
instead?
> The trim pattern could support such an idea...  Please tell me
BEFORE I cut
> my fabric!

This type of bodice could have been laced, or possibly hooked, at the
side back seams.  Have a look at "Patterns of Fashion" on page 103.
That way the front decoration would not be compromised.

Thank you for the new web site!  I had missed that one.
   Deb
   The Mantua-Maker


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Subject: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 05:51:41
Status: RO

Hello All.

I just finished watching the movie "Topsy-Turvy" about Gilbert & Sullivan's 
making of the Mikado.  It has beautiful and detailed costumes from the 
1890's.  There is a fantastic women's dressing room scene that shows the 
female actors in all sorts of undress. I loved this scene because I started 
thinking about what undergarments would have to be worn to make this classic 
1890's sillouette.  This scene pretty much answered my questions.

I was very fasinated by the side view of a bustle that seemed to be made of 
a cage of boning.  There was a line if stiffened fabric that ran from the 
tail bone down to below the woman's knees.  This line of fabric seemed to be 
held away from her body by little hoops of boning that varied in size from 
large (higher up) to small (lower down).  The bustle looked very flexible.  
And then she put on a half slip, petty coat type of skirt over the top and 
then her dress.

I started thinking about bustles and how a lady could sit comfortably while 
wearing one.  I'm also wondering how one could sit and then stand back up 
and have your bustle be in place.  I looked online to see if there was much 
information about the construction and wearing of a bustle, but did not have 
much luck.  Doeas anyone have any first hand experience in creating and 
wearing a bustle?  Or any good websites to which you could point me?

Thanks in advance.
:) jessica


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 15 05:05:31 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 00:59:02 -0700
Status: RO


>It has beautiful and detailed costumes from the 1890's.

1880's.  By 1890 bustles are nothing but a bunch of pleating at the back of 
a basically round skirt.  The skirt gets rounder, and the pleats fewer, as 
the decade progresses.  By maybe 1898 even the pleats are gone.

>I started thinking about bustles and how a lady could sit comfortably 
>while wearing one.  I'm also wondering how one could sit and then stand 
>back up and have your bustle be in place.

They fold up as you sit, then unfold, by gravity, as you stand up.  Since 
the hoops are only hanging on tapes, this is not difficult to 
engineer.  Also, you don't sit way back on chairs in them, so there's 
plenty of room for the folded bits plus petticoats plus skirt drapery.


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 15 07:04:21 2002
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:05:53 +0100
Status: RO

I wear a chae bustle as do others of my group, it is fine to sit in you can
sit fairly upright & they concertena under you or in more relaxed
circumstances, lie in the chair at 45 degrees or so. (there are plenty of
Punch cartoons showing this method )

U think there are photos of us sitting in the falkenstein section of
www.myphotos.org.uk

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 15 08:52:32 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] book query: Horn's "Second skin"
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:59:28 +0200
Status: RO

Hello,


any insights about Marilyn Horn's "Second skin: An Interdisciplinary Study 
of Clothing"?

It was published in:

1968, IX+435 pages, hardcover,
1975, 468 pages, textbook,
1981, XII+514 pages, hardcover.

In 1975 an "Instructor's Manual" for this book exists, with 122 pages.

The author's new book from 1991 is "The history of home economics in 
Nevada". "Second skin" could be also browsed under "home economics" category.

Thanks in advance! Yours,

Jadran Kale
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
    @  http://zupanija.sibenik.museum
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 15 09:27:20 2002
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From: "Parsla Liepa" <pliepa@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:24:46 -0400
Status: RO



When I was a child, I had a book called "Guess Again" (or something of that 
ilk...) that featured odd inventions of years past and you were to guess 
what its intended purpose was, from a multiple choice list.  One that stands 
out clearly in my memory was a bustle that incorporated a small folding 
stool -- all the lady had to do was lean back, and the stool would unfold, 
providing her with a place to sit.

Parsla


>>I started thinking about bustles and how a lady could sit comfortably
>>while wearing one.  I'm also wondering how one could sit and then stand
>>back up and have your bustle be in place.
>
>They fold up as you sit, then unfold, by gravity, as you stand up.  Since
>the hoops are only hanging on tapes, this is not difficult to
>engineer.  Also, you don't sit way back on chairs in them, so there's
>plenty of room for the folded bits plus petticoats plus skirt drapery.


--
Vocatus atque non vocatus, Deus aderit.


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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 14:53:34 +0100
Status: RO

>One that stands
out clearly in my memory was a bustle that incorporated a small folding
stool -- all the lady had to do was lean back, and the stool would unfold,
providing her with a place to sit.

It was a Victorian patent, but not something in common use as far as I can
ascertain

We keep toying with the idea of making one :)

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frontier House is coming
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:24:10 +0000
Status: RO

Hi Chineme! :-)

I hope they do a much better job with Frontier House than they did with
the Victoria House. It had the potential to be a fascinating look into
domestic history of the period and failed miserably. For a bunch of folks
who said they were looking for people willing to work in recreating
history, there was an awful lot of modernism rearing its inapproriate
face.

> My husband also ran his same rant as at the Victorian House -- these 
> are interesting but really just sensationalist journalism, because they

> throw these modern people into these situations without any real
training 
> of how to do the everyday things that period people grew up knowing how
to 
> do from childhood!  And then everything goes to heck in a handbasket,
they 
> almost starve, injure themselves, are miserable without the modern
world -- 
> setting the average audience up for "see how much better we have it
now, 
> wasn't it awful then"

Yeah, it was pretty pathetic.


				Arlys in Oregon

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frontier House is coming
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:49:48 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO


The Frontier House is set in 1883 from what I gather.  They asked me if
I could copy some of my period magazines from the Summer of 1883,
Delineator, Harper's bazar and The Young Ladies' Journal.  I even found
a modern paper that was the exact color of Delineator's from that year,
that facsimilie was pretty convincing.  They were done for the family's
visit to a general store.  I offered them a copy of a Butterick
Polonaise pattern from Nov. 1883, but they thought it was too fancy,
here's a picture of it on my webpage:

www.vintagevictorian.com/1883_polonaise.html

I love the pattern, made it a couple of times, very simple.  They wanted
a pattern for a work dress instead.  Oh well.  I do wish they would do
one of these shows with well trained reenactors for once.  All the
pictures I've seem on TV the ladies have been in their underwear.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:53:18 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Can anyone explain to me how one actually sits in a
side-saddle?  I've seen a woman in voluminous skirts
on a side-saddle, but you couldn't see how she was
actually sitting.  I've seen a side-saddle up close,
sans rider.  I'm very puzzled!  If that oddly-placed
horn was between your thighs somehow, you'd fall right
off.

Joan Hall/Iohanna the Harper

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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frontier House is coming
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:56:33 -0400
Status: RO

At 10:11 AM 4/14/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Will be on Oregon PBS at the end of the month, starting to see a lot of
>promos.  Just saw an "ad" featuring a LOT of ladies and teen-age girls in
>their camisoles (waist length, at least one with corset over), and gents
>working shirtless...  (obviously summer)
>
>somehow this just doesn't jibe with my preconceptions, vague and uninformed
>as the are (I'm a lot better at 7th-13thC!), of how people of the period
>(they're supposed to be sometime ACW-to-early-Victorian) would have dealt
>with hot weather or sweaty work...
>
>My husband also ran his same rant as at the Victorian House -- these are
>interesting but really just sensationalist journalism, because they throw
>these modern people into these situations without any real training of how
>to do the everyday things that period people grew up knowing how to do from
>childhood!  And then everything goes to heck in a handbasket, they almost
>starve, injure themselves, are miserable without the modern world -- setting
>the average audience up for "see how much better we have it now, wasn't it
>awful then"
>
>Has anyone seen this yet, elsewhere in the country, or is all of PBS doing
>it ... April 29-May 1 (with a full repeat on Sunday May 5, here in Oregon,
>anyway)
>
>Patsy in Eugene OR


        I do not know for sure about "Frontier House", but this was the very
premise of "Victorian House".  Not to dertermine if life was more difficult
than today, but to see how somebody from the present thrown into the
situation would respond.  They are really more socialogical experiments than
historic reenactments.  I do know that when "Frontier House" was looking for
a family, that I was not eligible due to my background and familiarity with
lifeskills of the past.  

        These are of course not "sensationalist" journalism, as they are not
really journalism at all.

        I have my doubts about the camisoles by the bye, but there are
photographs of men working in their shirt sleeves in the period in question.
Particularly on the American Frontier.  Cowboys for instance are often
photographed in their shirt sleeves.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Threnody <threnody@threnody.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 02:21:01 +1000
Status: RO

At 08:53  2002-04-15 -0700, you wrote:
>Can anyone explain to me how one actually sits in a
>side-saddle?  I've seen a woman in voluminous skirts
>on a side-saddle, but you couldn't see how she was
>actually sitting.  I've seen a side-saddle up close,
>sans rider.  I'm very puzzled!  If that oddly-placed
>horn was between your thighs somehow, you'd fall right
>off.
>
>Joan Hall/Iohanna the Harper


Modern side saddle habits have the back part of the skirt cut away, they 
look a little like an apron with a "bum cover". (My mother used to ride 
side saddle a lot.) When you're on the horse, you can't really tell that 
it's just a "bum cover". And  you wear breeches underneath, of course. :) 
Sometimes a split skirt is worn. Period habits, I'm not sure exactly, but I 
believe mostly you just arranged your skirts so that the larger bunches of 
material were towards the front. Your right leg hooks over the upper horn, 
and your left leg sits under the lower one (it's not supposed to actually 
press up against it during ordinary riding) and rests in the stirrup; you 
sit facing the front.

Generally pre 1600 or so, the lady actually did sit sideways on the horse 
on a saddle that was more like a platform and sometimes had a footrest, and 
I think it was the early 1600s (quite possibly earlier, I'm not 100% sure) 
that the horned saddle came into use and ladies could sit facing the front. 
A second horn was added in the early 1830s to help with stability when jumping.

There are patterns and drawings of modern and period habits here:
http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/sidesaddlelady/Catalogue%20-%20dressmaking%20patterns.html

My mother riding sidesaddle in a modern formal habit:
http://www.threnody.org/misc/sidesaddle01.jpg

  - Sonia

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 09:31:33 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


--- Threnody <threnody@threnody.org> wrote:
> Your right leg hooks over the upper horn, 

Ah...thank you...that one fact makes it all click into
place for me.  Thanks too for the links.

Joan Hall  



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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 09:16:38 +0000
Status: RO

I thought you sort of hooked your knee around it.

				Arlys

On Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:53:18 -0700 (PDT) Joan Garner
<joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com> writes:
> Can anyone explain to me how one actually sits in a
> side-saddle?  I've seen a woman in voluminous skirts
> on a side-saddle, but you couldn't see how she was
> actually sitting.  I've seen a side-saddle up close,
> sans rider.  I'm very puzzled!  If that oddly-placed
> horn was between your thighs somehow, you'd fall right
> off.
> 
> Joan Hall/Iohanna the Harper
> 
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:46:59 -0500
Status: RO

Hey....

I have only ridden a English side saddle so here goes. There is a pommel and
a leaping head that the legs wrap around that keeps a lady in her seat. The
earlier period ones (I think) did not have the leaping head. Modern saddles
have break-away stirrups, so if one fell over that off side, you're not
dragged. Unfortunately some Victorian ladies did get killed this way.

For more information goto:
http://www.sidesaddleinternational.com/



Jennene Stanley
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 I live to be the best I can"                       - Queensrÿche
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"Mooharpist"    send e-mail to : Mooharpist@mmcable.com
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 House Moo Home   http://homepage.mac.com/housemoo


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Subject: [h-cost] Place to wear Ragtime costumes
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 14:35:05 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO


Here is a place to wear costumes, and participate activities, from the
Ragtime Era, if you live in the New England Area, or want to come visit
for the weekend.

The flyer for the May 11-12 Ragtime Dance Weekend, in West Newton, MA,
is now available on the web, with printable registration form!  Register
now!

http://www.vintagedancers.org/20020511_ball.html

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

 Posted to vintage-dance by Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Place to wear Ragtime costumes
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:00:21 -0700
Status: RO


>Ragtime Era,

What set of years do you mean by 'Ragtime Era'?  (Just a question, not a 
flame.)

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:06:01 -0700
Status: RO


>I wear a chae bustle as do others of my group, it is fine to sit in you can
>sit fairly upright & they concertena under you or in more relaxed
>circumstances, lie in the chair at 45 degrees or so. (there are plenty of
>Punch cartoons showing this method )

There are period photos of folks in corsets doing the same 45 degree thing.

>U think there are photos of us sitting in the falkenstein section of
>www.myphotos.org.uk

Cool pictures.  What was the event / were the events?  What is the 
group?  I'd like to find an 1880's group a little nearer to San Francisco, 
California, than you are.


Kayta
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 15:13:24 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO


We usually consider it to be 1910-20 for our dance group, or 1900-1920's
if we are being more general.  Our dance group does 1913-14 for
costuming, but the music we use is more wide ranging.  In vintage dance
people have taken to calling the early 20th century period Ragtime.

Katy.

On Mon, 15 Apr 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>>Ragtime Era,
>
>What set of years do you mean by 'Ragtime Era'?  (Just a question, not a
>flame.)
>
>Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Good question, but you may safely put at the turn of the 19th century. In my 
box of CDs of all of Scott Joplin's compositions, the earliest is 1895 and 
the latest is 1917.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>Good question, but you may safely put at the turn of the 19th century. In my box of CDs of all of Scott Joplin's compositions, the earliest is 1895 and the latest is 1917.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 22:15:56 +0100
Status: RO

>Cool pictures.

Thanks

> What was the event / were the events?

They vary we have various events where we hire a property & go Victorian
Adventuring, Gorge walking, roller skating, 8-9 meals a day, gothic
banquets, you know the average Victorian holiday ;)

> What is the
group?

A group of friend just entering 1874 we play Castle Falkenstien a
alternative Steam Punk universe !!

>I'd like to find an 1880's group a little nearer to San Francisco,
California, than you are.

I guess it is a way to travel :) Start one that's all we did !

Mel




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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 17:27:11 EDT
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Jessica Stier and other interested folk,

One really great place for bustle construction information is : 
                            Truly Victorian
                            18925 John F. Kennedy Drive
                            Riverside, CA 92508
                            (909) 780-3112

Online it is: www.trulyvictorian.com.  The owner/designers are Laura and 
Heather McNaughton and they have fantastic victorian reproduction patterns 
for 1870-1899. They teach often at the Costumer's Guild West's annual Costume 
College and would probably be able to give you the answers you need.

Hope this helps.

Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 19:35:59 -0400
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Broadway Press is having a 50% off closeout sale on some of their costume
history books.  You might want to check it out at
http://www.broadwaypress.com/booklist.html

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 21:28:00 EDT
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Thanks for the pics link, Linda!  What culture and time period was this 
costume from?

http://www.geocities.com/mr_mcclane/costume/00kwcsA14.jpeg

--Gillian
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<<  Are the straps on your "corset" or on the bodice of your gown?>>

Straps are on the corset, while gown bodice is the same but with the 
armseye-to-strap area filled in by widening the straps.

<<One way i achieve an appropriate look without poking someone in the 
face (not because i'm a prude, but because it is WRONG for 
Elizabethan) is boning the bodice as well as wearing a boned corset. 
That way my alabaster orbs are appropriately located and covered.>>

Well, if I didn't adjust myself for cleavage, the shape my corset -- which 
you're right, was called a "pair of bodies" -- would be what you see in 
paintings.  The cleavage is one modernism I allow myself, because it's 
difficult to look sexy all covered up with a partlet and ruffs.  I don't 
overdo it, however.  (I can't really, cuz I'm small.)  I have seen some 
outright indecent displays, though, so I know the feeling...

As for boning, yes, bundled rushes could be used.  I've also read about 
willow being cut while green and halved lengthwise, then left for a few 
months to season.  On rare occasions, the upper class used whalebone.  I use 
the white-painted steel, because it holds up in the wash and lies very flat.  
You do have to use SOME boning in the outer gown even if you have a corset 
underneath -- especially in the Center Front, to keep the point down, and 
along the back lacing holes to keep them from wrinkling -- but you can use 
less to save money.  This is assuming a woman of social standing, like my own 
persona.  The lower classes did indeed often do without boning.

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Pelican-type bodice
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 22:22:37 EDT
Status: RO


<< This type of bodice could have been laced, or possibly hooked, at the
 side back seams.  Have a look at "Patterns of Fashion" on page 103.
 That way the front decoration would not be compromised.>>

Don't have that book just yet, but my bodice does not have side back seams.  
My original pattern was to lace up Center Back, but I couldn't make out any 
lacing whatsoever in the painting I saw.  Granted, it's a scene of many 
people gathering outside before a grand feast, so the people are small and 
the painter might simply have left out such details.
 
 <<Thank you for the new web site!  I had missed that one.>>

Glad you liked it,  Deb!

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Sitting in bustles or farthingales
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 22:25:55 EDT
Status: RO


<< I started thinking about bustles and how a lady could sit comfortably 
while 
 wearing one.  I'm also wondering how one could sit and then stand back up 
 and have your bustle be in place.  I looked online to see if there was much 
 information about the construction and wearing of a bustle, but did not have 
 much luck.  Doeas anyone have any first hand experience in creating and 
 wearing a bustle?  Or any good websites to which you could point me?>>

Don't know about bustles, but I'm having the same problem with my farthigale. 
 I really can't figure out how to sit in it.  "At the very edge of the seat" 
is the only advice I can give.

--Gillian
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 15 23:54:16 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: impossible sleeves + new question
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 21:51:21 -0500
Status: RO

Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Looking at at painting c. 1570 London (unnamed artist), courtesy of "What
> Life Was Like in the Realm of Elizabeth" by Time/Life...  The dresses in this
> painting have those same rolls half-off the shoulder.  2 ladies have their
> backs to us, showing a straight horizontal neckline line that is simply
> higher (a hand's width maybe?) than the bustline in the front -- no V's.
> This is a relief, seeing as how that's what I did on the dress I'm making.  I
> cannot make out any lacing up the back, however...  Should my dress be
> opening up the front instead?<...>
> Could it be that these dresses opened in front with hooks and eyes instead?
> The trim pattern could support such an idea...  

The straight-across-the-back bodice can support straps to which the
shoulder rolls are attached (and the rolls generally hide the straps
completely).  Mine are constructed this way, and with the strap tension
adjusted, one gets the proper slant on the rolls  
(http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/blue.html)

I tend to hook-and-eye mine down the front between the guards
(http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/red.html and
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/velvet.html are both fastened this
way)  There is evidence for front openings in the portrait of an unknown
girl from 1569, which is fig. 74 in _A Visual History of Costume:  The
Sixteenth Century_ by Ashelford and fig. 174 in _Queen Elizabeth's
Wardrobe Unlock'd_ by Janet Arnold.  If anyone knows of a copy of this
online, I'd love to know where to find it.

All the best,
Melanie Schuessler
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Symposium Pics
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 23:29:48 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 15 Apr 2002 Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Thanks for the pics link, Linda!  What culture and time period was
> this costume from?
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/mr_mcclane/costume/00kwcsA14.jpeg

I just sent an email to the photographer to ask him.  I know he has notes,
because I was his notetaker during that photo session, but I can't promise
he'll be able to put his hands on them! And I don't remember the details
myself.

(If you had posted this a day earlier, I could have asked him in person,
as he just spent the weekend visiting here. He takes great pictures of my
kids, but I rarely get around to having him take photos of my costumes.)

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Sitting in bustles or farthingales
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 22:54:57 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:25 PM 4/15/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Don't know about bustles, but I'm having the same problem with my farthigale.
>  I really can't figure out how to sit in it.  "At the very edge of the seat"
>is the only advice I can give.
>
>--Gillian

Fabritio Caroso in his Renaissance dance manual "Nobiltà de dame" explains 
how to sit in a farthingale, with a train, etc... and is available from 
Dover for $14.95.

http://store.doverpublications.com/0486286193.html

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 22:57:00 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:28 PM 4/15/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Thanks for the pics link, Linda!  What culture and time period was this
>costume from?
>
>http://www.geocities.com/mr_mcclane/costume/00kwcsA14.jpeg
>
>--Gillian

It's Mongolian.  When exactly I'm not sure.  I thought Grace Morris (who 
made and is wearing the outfit) was on this list...

Cheers,
Danielle

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 16 02:14:40 2002
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 01:11:07 EDT
Status: RO

I found the costumers website.
This was a masquearde costume depicting an Amazon Queen.

Osmondia
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 10:07:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> U think there are photos of us sitting in the falkenstein section of
> www.myphotos.org.uk

What a *lovely* yellow and green gown....  Beautiful style *and* the 
best colour combination that ever there was.

<impressed>

Teddy
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 10:52:21 +0100
Status: RO

>What a *lovely* yellow and green gown....  Beautiful style *and* the 
best colour combination that ever there was

Why thank you :)

Gareth calls it my Snow White outfit ?!

Mel

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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:27:57 +0100
Status: RO

Ron Carnegie wrote:

>        I do not know for sure about "Frontier House", but this was the very
>premise of "Victorian House".  Not to dertermine if life was more difficult
>than today, but to see how somebody from the present thrown into the
>situation would respond.  They are really more socialogical experiments >than historic reenactments. 

If you mean "1900 House", I agree and made the same point in an earlier discussion. The point of the series was to see how "ordinary" modern people coped, not to watch expert reenactors.
I read at the weekend that here in the UK we are shortly to have a new series representing an Edwardian country house, complete with servants. I wonder if we will eventually get to see the US "Frontier House" as well!


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Symposium Pics
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> Thanks for the pics link, Linda!  What culture and time period was
> this costume from?
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/mr_mcclane/costume/00kwcsA14.jpeg

Looks kinda Mongol to me.....  but my researches intot hat style are 
minimal.



Teddy
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> Why thank you :)
> 
> Gareth calls it my Snow White outfit ?!

Really?  Snow White didn't spring to mind when I looked at it (the 
lovely shape of the green and the way the bodice-skirts sit so nicely 
over the main skirts did)



Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Richmond VA
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I am going to be in Richmond VA on Friday and Saturday (April 19-20).
does anyone have any recommendations for what to see?  I know of the
Valentine Museum, but have never been there, any good costume exhibits,
fabric stores, vintage stores?

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan corsets
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:17:51 -0700
Status: RO

Gillian answered my questions:
>  > Are the straps on your "corset" or on the bodice of your gown?
>
>Straps are on the corset, while gown bodice is the same but with the
>armseye-to-strap area filled in by widening the straps.

There certainly were straps on "corsets" later, but whether there 
were during the Elizabethan period is debated. I haven't studied the 
evidence very well, so i'm not weighing in. Just mentioning it. 
Perhaps someone on list has done more in-depth research than i have...

>Well, if I didn't adjust myself for cleavage, the shape my corset -- which
>you're right, was called a "pair of bodies" -- would be what you see in
>paintings.  The cleavage is one modernism I allow myself, because it's
>difficult to look sexy all covered up with a partlet and ruffs.

And you want to meet a 20th/21st century idea of sexy, rather than an 
Elizabethan idea of sexy because...?

>As for boning, yes, bundled rushes could be used.  I've also read about
>willow being cut while green and halved lengthwise, then left for a few
>months to season.  On rare occasions, the upper class used whalebone.

Which would be illegal most places these days :-)

>I use
>the white-painted steel, because it holds up in the wash and lies very flat.

So do i.

>You do have to use SOME boning in the outer gown even if you have a corset
>underneath -- especially in the Center Front, to keep the point down, and
>along the back lacing holes to keep them from wrinkling -- but you can use
>less to save money.  This is assuming a woman of social standing, like my own
>persona.  The lower classes did indeed often do without boning.

Since you are apparently quite small, you wouldn't need as much 
boning as someone who is larger. I absolutely agree about having some 
sort of stays along "open" edges, where a garment laces or hooks.

In my most recent outfit, i experimented (unsuccessfully) with hook 
and eye tape thus: My outer bodices are fully lined, as well as 
stiffly interfaced and boned. I put the hook-and-eye tape on the 
lining on the outer side, not the inside where i wouldn't be able to 
see it. Then fastened the outer velvet layer provisionally with 
"pearl" headed straight pins, intending to put in more permanent 
fastenings once i saw the result of the experiment.

The hook-and-eye tape was just not practical (i used a commercial 
kind made for bras and other undergarments). The hooks-and-eyes were 
just too close together, and, well, i just couldn't see over my 
balcony to fasten them. I wore the bodice that way for one Ren Fair 
(2 months of weekends), having to ask for assistance everyday, which 
i don't like to do, but have since removed it. I've taken a bit of a 
fancy to fastening the outer layer with the pins, but i don't know if 
this is historically accurate. Comments, anyone?

Because i lack servants :-) my previous outfit laced up the front and 
had false lacings in both back semi-side seams. I attached a (i 
forget the name) triangular piece of fabric over the lacings in the 
front to hide them, fastening it on both sides with hand-sewn 
hooks-and-eyes. This wasn't meant to be historically accurate, but 
sometimes one has to make compromises in these sorts of theatrical 
situations without dressers.

Anahita / Modesty / Philomel
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 16 19:25:58 2002
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From: "Sue" <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5.1.0.14.0.20020416015745.00a03170@mail.bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 15:39:51 -0400
Status: RO

I have a side saddle riding skirt from Edwardian period.  It has 2 different
"pockets" in the front for both knees to fit in.  It is on my website.
Cordially,
Sue Shatto
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick, MD 21701
http://wwwVictorianMillinery.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Threnody" <threnody@threnody.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles


> At 08:53  2002-04-15 -0700, you wrote:
> >Can anyone explain to me how one actually sits in a
> >side-saddle?  I've seen a woman in voluminous skirts
> >on a side-saddle, but you couldn't see how she was
> >actually sitting.  I've seen a side-saddle up close,
> >sans rider.  I'm very puzzled!  If that oddly-placed
> >horn was between your thighs somehow, you'd fall right
> >off.
> >
> >Joan Hall/Iohanna the Harper
>
>
> Modern side saddle habits have the back part of the skirt cut away, they
> look a little like an apron with a "bum cover". (My mother used to ride
> side saddle a lot.) When you're on the horse, you can't really tell that
> it's just a "bum cover". And  you wear breeches underneath, of course. :)
> Sometimes a split skirt is worn. Period habits, I'm not sure exactly, but
I
> believe mostly you just arranged your skirts so that the larger bunches of
> material were towards the front. Your right leg hooks over the upper horn,
> and your left leg sits under the lower one (it's not supposed to actually
> press up against it during ordinary riding) and rests in the stirrup; you
> sit facing the front.
>
> Generally pre 1600 or so, the lady actually did sit sideways on the horse
> on a saddle that was more like a platform and sometimes had a footrest,
and
> I think it was the early 1600s (quite possibly earlier, I'm not 100% sure)
> that the horned saddle came into use and ladies could sit facing the
front.
> A second horn was added in the early 1830s to help with stability when
jumping.
>
> There are patterns and drawings of modern and period habits here:
>
http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/sidesaddlelady/Catalogue%20-%20dressmaking%20pa
tterns.html
>
> My mother riding sidesaddle in a modern formal habit:
> http://www.threnody.org/misc/sidesaddle01.jpg
>
>   - Sonia
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 16 19:28:09 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frontier House is coming
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 17:53:16 -0400
Status: RO

At 01:27 PM 4/16/02 +0100, you wrote:
>Ron Carnegie wrote:
>
>>        I do not know for sure about "Frontier House", but this was the very
>>premise of "Victorian House".  Not to dertermine if life was more difficult
>>than today, but to see how somebody from the present thrown into the
>>situation would respond.  They are really more socialogical experiments
>than historic reenactments. 
>
>If you mean "1900 House", I agree and made the same point in an earlier
discussion. The point of the series was to see how "ordinary" modern people
coped, not to watch expert reenactors.
>I read at the weekend that here in the UK we are shortly to have a new
series representing an Edwardian country house, complete with servants. I
wonder if we will eventually get to see the US "Frontier House" as well!
>
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby

        Yes 1900 house is what I meant.  In fact I think it was your earlier
post that i had learned this from.  Also when I read an email looking for
applications for the new American one.  Not sure which list that was
forwarded to.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: [h-cost] Young Designers Contest Open for Entries!
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:53:20 -0300
Status: RO

I totally forgot to mention this in February when I got my rules page up,
but the Young Designers Historical Pattern Contest is at last open for
entries. You can get all the details at
http://www.sensibility.com/ydcontest.htm. We have three excellent judges who
will remain secret until the finalists are announced! :-)

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan corsets
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:09:47 -0500
Status: RO


On Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:17:51 -0700 lilinah@earthlink.net writes:
> Gillian answered my questions:
> >  > Are the straps on your "corset" or on the bodice of your gown?
> >
> >Straps are on the corset, while gown bodice is the same but with 
> the armseye-to-strap area filled in by widening the straps.
> 
> There certainly were straps on "corsets" later, but whether there 
> were during the Elizabethan period is debated. I haven't studied the 
> evidence very well, so i'm not weighing in. Just mentioning it. 
> Perhaps someone on list has done more in-depth research than i 
> have...

Actually the debate should be whether any corsets DIDN'T have straps as
the only two extant corsets from the period (that I'm aware of) both HAVE
straps. As far as I can tell the strapless Elizabethan corset is a
Faire-ism that I suspect developed when the first pioneer
Neo-Elizabethans were trying to figure out how everything worked. Perhaps
the strapless variety were easier to make unobtrusive under the wide
necklines with minimal straps that one sees on the period bodices before
re-enactor design and tailoring skills improved. In any case, there's no
period precedent for a strapless corset and from my own experience the
ones with straps are more comfy at the end of a long hot day at the
Faire. Although I am reasonably well endowed (38D), I never haul the
girls up to the heights that I see some folks do because it ruins the
lines of my dresses and the girls get a bit cranky after a long, hot day
of being hoisted up into an unnatural position. Of course having them
mushed too far down isn't good either, there's a nice 'slightly elevated
and rounded at the top' position that is both comfortable and looks right
with the dresses. 


just a groats worth,


Karen

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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:42:43 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

guys,

I'm still off for the nonce, but hope to have the time to get back on
soon.  :)  In the meantime, my email has changed:

drea@nospam

dnaco will soon be going away.

Thanks,

Drea



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 16 22:00:17 2002
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:38:24 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Hi all,
 
I thought someone might be interested in two lovely
fabrics at Phoenix Textiles.  I wish I could afford to
buy a little (or a lot), but I can live vicariously
through some other fabric fiend.
 
Check out the Grover Latte and the Grover Wine...the
close-up is great.
 
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/chenup.html
 
Heidi


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 17 00:14:18 2002
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I was in Richmond just a couple of weeks ago.  The Valentine Museum has a 
great exhibit up right now featuring clothes from the department stores that 
used to be in the area.
I also found the Silk Trading Company, at 304 E. Grace, right near the 
convention center.  There are some great and hard to find fabrics-- silks, 
wools, and linens, among others--and the prices are good, if not tremendous 
bargains.
Enjoy!
Ann Wass
annbwass@aol.com 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I was in Richmond just a couple of weeks ago.&nbsp; The Valentine Museum has a great exhibit up right now featuring clothes from the department stores that used to be in the area.<BR>
I also found the Silk Trading Company, at 304 E. Grace, right near the convention center.&nbsp; There are some great and hard to find fabrics-- silks, wools, and linens, among others--and the prices are good, if not tremendous bargains.<BR>
Enjoy!<BR>
Ann Wass<BR>
annbwass@aol.com </FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] 1400's Danish?
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 03:40:49
Status: RO

A friend of mine is searching for information on 1400's men's Danish 
clothing. Could someone please give me some leads?

Thanks,

Mary/Katerine

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 17 01:40:13 2002
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 23:41:04 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings,

I think you are confusing Grace's Mongolian:
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Square/5460/costume/00kwcsA14.jpeg

with Drea's Penthesilea:
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Square/5460/costume/00kwcsB22.jpeg

Here is article on it:
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/wardrobe/masque.html

Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:11 AM 4/16/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>I found the costumers website.
>This was a masquearde costume depicting an Amazon Queen.
>
>Osmondia

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 17 01:52:13 2002
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 21:41:22 -0700
Status: RO

My side saddle is from the turn of the century-American.  It is referred
to as a Mountain Side Saddle.    It does not have the leaping horn.   I
only use mine to do dressage, a very controlled practice.    IMHO it is
inherently more dangerous to ride side saddle ithan astride (in a skirt
especially!), though if that were all you did you'd probably get very
proficient at it.  The discussions I have always been involved in,
always were along the line of "if you can do that side saddle, you are
really good!".  I don't know very many people that ride routinely
sidesaddle.  You see it here and there in shows, but riding in an arena
is a much more controlled environment than out on a hunt for instance.
All the riding habits I have seen are full skirted. The 'backless' skirt
that was referred to in an earlier post I believe was just something to
practice in.  Somewhere I think I remember reading that up until
(relatively) recently, ladies were required to wear skirts while doing
the hunt.

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Sue
**Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 12:40 PM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
**
**
**I have a side saddle riding skirt from Edwardian period.  It 
**has 2 different "pockets" in the front for both knees to fit 
**in.  It is on my website. Cordially, Sue Shatto 401 Fairview 
**Ave. Frederick, MD 21701 http://wwwVictorianMillinery.com
**
**----- Original Message -----
**From: "Threnody" <threnody@threnody.org>
**To: <h-costume@indra.com>
**Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 12:21 PM
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
**
**
**> At 08:53  2002-04-15 -0700, you wrote:
**> >Can anyone explain to me how one actually sits in a side-saddle?  
**> >I've seen a woman in voluminous skirts on a side-saddle, but you 
**> >couldn't see how she was actually sitting.  I've seen a 
**side-saddle 
**> >up close, sans rider.  I'm very puzzled!  If that oddly-placed
**> >horn was between your thighs somehow, you'd fall right
**> >off.
**> >
**> >Joan Hall/Iohanna the Harper
**>
**>
**> Modern side saddle habits have the back part of the skirt cut away, 
**> they look a little like an apron with a "bum cover". (My 
**mother used 
**> to ride side saddle a lot.) When you're on the horse, you 
**can't really 
**> tell that it's just a "bum cover". And  you wear breeches 
**underneath, 
**> of course. :) Sometimes a split skirt is worn. Period 
**habits, I'm not 
**> sure exactly, but
**I
**> believe mostly you just arranged your skirts so that the larger 
**> bunches of material were towards the front. Your right leg 
**hooks over 
**> the upper horn, and your left leg sits under the lower one 
**(it's not 
**> supposed to actually press up against it during ordinary 
**riding) and 
**> rests in the stirrup; you sit facing the front.
**>
**> Generally pre 1600 or so, the lady actually did sit sideways on the 
**> horse on a saddle that was more like a platform and sometimes had a 
**> footrest,
**and
**> I think it was the early 1600s (quite possibly earlier, I'm 
**not 100% 
**> sure) that the horned saddle came into use and ladies could 
**sit facing 
**> the
**front.
**> A second horn was added in the early 1830s to help with 
**stability when
**jumping.
**>
**> There are patterns and drawings of modern and period habits here:
**>
**http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/sidesaddlelady/Catalogue%20-%20dr
**essmaking%20pa
**tterns.html
**>
**> My mother riding sidesaddle in a modern formal habit: 
**> http://www.threnody.org/misc/sidesaddle01.jpg
**>
**>   - Sonia
**>
**> _______________________________________________
**> h-costume mailing list
**> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
**> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
**>
**
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 04:50:12
Status: RO


Hi Everyone.

I just wanted to say how much I've learned from this train of thought.  
Thank you so much for you comments, pictures and links.  I've learned a lot!

Thanks for the fun!
:) jessica

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:43:05 +0100
Status: RO

>Really?  Snow White didn't spring to mind when I looked at it

I think it is the sleeve contast to the bodice of something, or maybe he has
a Snow White fixation ;)

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:52:13 +0100
Status: RO

>It does not have the leaping horn.   I
only use mine to do dressage, a very controlled practice.
  IMHO it is
inherently more dangerous to ride side saddle ithan astride (in a skirt
especially!), though if that were all you did you'd probably get very
proficient at it.

Depends on the saddle really, in later saddles you have potentially a much
stronger seat, and very little change of comming off once yopu have mastered
the scissor grip. I'd rather sit a buck in a side saddle than astride :) A
rear however can be lethal. FIRST RULE of aside riding if your horse rears
don't do side saddle on it.

Having said that I come from slightly mad Quorn country where for
generations ladies have hunted hard aside :)

>The discussions I have always been involved in,
always were along the line of "if you can do that side saddle, you are
really good!".

I disagree it is just what you are used to.

> I don't know very many people that ride routinely
sidesaddle.

I used to, don't ride much aside or astride at the moment too many kids...
But I used to do most things aside, hunt, jump, hack out, Nope can't think
of anything I didn't do. You need to do it routinly to be any good , simply
because of the muscle build up needed like any sport

> You see it here and there in shows, but riding in an arena
is a much more controlled environment than out on a hunt for instance.

Yeah but so much less fun !! Add a bit of a wild chase, can't be knocked

>All the riding habits I have seen are full skirted. The 'backless' skirt
that was referred to in an earlier post I believe was just something to
practice in.

No the Apron is wore on most occasions and gradually came in after its
invention for hunting, dressage , hacking out etc etc. Prior to that there
were various other safty skirts too.

If you do riding in full skirts ALWAYS make fastenings velcro, or by some
other method so the rip off you if you take a fall, acuraccy is not worth an
acurate head stoving in as you are dragged under the horse IMHO

> Somewhere I think I remember reading that up until
(relatively) recently, ladies were required to wear skirts while doing
the hunt.

Depends how recently you mean, certainly in Victorian times yes without a
doubt, not that all of them did :)

Mel



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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 23:17:41 -0700
Status: RO


>I just wanted to say how much I've learned from this train of thought.

Train of thought - nice pun.


Kayta
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:34:16 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >Really?  Snow White didn't spring to mind when I looked at it
> 
> I think it is the sleeve contast to the bodice of something, or maybe
> he has a Snow White fixation ;)

<snortle!>  Perhaps he could include it in a story-telling if he makes 
it to another of our events?



Teddy
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:12:10 +0100
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><snortle!>  Perhaps he could include it in a story-telling if he makes 
it to another of our events?

Don't temp him ;0)

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1400's Danish?
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 14:52:14 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
There are very little portraits of danes from this period, but i suggest
you could search for books about church mural pictures. We have lots and
lots of churches with mural pictures from 13th - 14th. centuries.
I wish i could help you some more, but this is a fact, i know cause i am
a dane.

Bjarne

Mary Temple wrote:

> A friend of mine is searching for information on 1400's men's Danish
> clothing. Could someone please give me some leads?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mary/Katerine
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan corsets and those sleeves...
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:07:31 -0500
Status: RO

I have been following both threads to see what the consensus would be and something occured to me.

I also believe corsets back then probably did have straps, since the only ones we have 
seen had them, we really can't say they didn't unless there is some written description 
that states otherwise.
And I have always wondered how any of the ladies could keep up those heavily ornate 
sleeves on the edges of their shoulders, without the armscye being extremely tight and 
something somewhere holding them up.

There was mention a couple of years back (can't remember the source on this list)that some 
bodices never had shoulder straps to begin with, the sleeves were actually sewn to the 
underarm area, and they were simply designed to cover the top joint of the arm.
Now if this is true, then perhaps the way they kept those sleeves up (with the help of a 
well designed back) would be by pinning the sleeve to the straps of their corset/aka pair 
of bodies when neccessary?
( Of course this would not be neccessary on the doublet styled bodices of latter Elizabethan)
I have made sleeves that once they were embellished with cording and trim, that could 
weigh in at 2 to 3 lbs.  Never have satisfactorially gotten them to stay on a rounded 
shoulder.


Linda Thompson

 www.seams-to-be.com 
 Attitude is Everything 


> From: seamstrix@juno.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> 
> On Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:17:51 -0700 lilinah@earthlink.net writes:
> 
>>Gillian answered my questions:
>>
>>> > Are the straps on your "corset" or on the bodice of your gown?
>>>
>>>Straps are on the corset, while gown bodice is the same but with 
>>>
>>the armseye-to-strap area filled in by widening the straps.
>>
>>There certainly were straps on "corsets" later, but whether there 
>>were during the Elizabethan period is debated. I haven't studied the 
>>evidence very well, so i'm not weighing in. Just mentioning it. 
>>Perhaps someone on list has done more in-depth research than i 
>>have...
>>
> 
> Actually the debate should be whether any corsets DIDN'T have straps as
> the only two extant corsets from the period (that I'm aware of) both HAVE
> straps. As far as I can tell the strapless Elizabethan corset is a
> Faire-ism that I suspect developed when the first pioneer
> Neo-Elizabethans were trying to figure out how everything worked. Perhaps
> the strapless variety were easier to make unobtrusive under the wide
> necklines with minimal straps that one sees on the period bodices before
> re-enactor design and tailoring skills improved. In any case, there's no
> period precedent for a strapless corset and from my own experience the
> ones with straps are more comfy at the end of a long hot day at the
> Faire. Although I am reasonably well endowed (38D), I never haul the
> girls up to the heights that I see some folks do because it ruins the
> lines of my dresses and the girls get a bit cranky after a long, hot day
> of being hoisted up into an unnatural position. Of course having them
> mushed too far down isn't good either, there's a nice 'slightly elevated
> and rounded at the top' position that is both comfortable and looks right
> with the dresses. 
> 
> 
> just a groats worth,
> 
> 
> Karen
> 


-- 


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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1400's Danish?
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 21:14:48 -0700
Status: RO

At 3:40 AM -0700 4/17/02, Mary Temple wrote:
>A friend of mine is searching for information on 1400's men's Danish 
>clothing. Could someone please give me some leads?
>

I don't know how much information is available on regional 
differences in Scandinavia in that period, but you could do a lot 
worse than start by looking at the Swedish "Boksten man" outfit, 
which has been dated variously in the 12-14th centuries (but 
Margareta Nockert localizes it in the 14th century and she's done the 
most extensive recent work on it).  Nocker's publication on the find 
also includes a lot of other Scandinavian material from the same 
general time period (give or take a couple centuries), which may also 
be useful.

Nockert, Margareta.  1997.  Bockstensmannen och hans Drakt.  Hallands 
Lansmuseer, Boras.  ISBN  9185720-30-5

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:21:39 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

One of the ladies on another list is auctioning off some of her costume
books:

http://cgi6.aol.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=barbsbit

-- Mara

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Subject: [h-cost] Riding habits and side-saddles
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:15:41 -0500
Status: RO

I had an opportunity to learn side-saddle one summer, and then rode same in a parade.  I practiced w/ a towel draped over my legs to accustom my appy mare to something flapping around on one side :).  I tried both the single (curve-up) horn and double (one up, one down) horn saddles.  It was my understanding the double was meant more for hunting and I did find it more secure.  I had a problem with one or the other of my legs falling asleep however.

When I did the ride in costume it was a full-skirted one and I had no problems mounting, dismounting, or moving around on the horse with a full skirt (altho it was a fairly lt-weight fabric) but I was glad I had had some practice.  It has been many years since I researched this but I don't remember finding anything but full-skirted habits.  A museum I catalogued costumes for while in college had, what we thought, was a riding habit from the late 1800's and it had a full skirt.

Hope this helps,
Catherine

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Subject: [h-cost] Those white tapes....
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:44:11 -0500
Status: RO

I took another look at the few pictures I have seen of those white strap/tape things that 
you see.  Are there any portraits, of women actually dressed up and sitting for a portrait 
  with the tapes in them?
So far I have only seen instances where the ladies appear to have been captured in a work 
or movement style setting (walking, shopping?)
I believe that it is 2 narrow sashes of fabric worn specifically to aid in holding up 
heavy skirts when walking around.  In the Holbein picture of "An English Lady Walking", it 
appears the sash could be attached to a layer of voluminous skirts in the back, then comes 
up the sides from the back around the front of the shoulder.  It could then come over the 
back, cross over each other and come around the front clipping to the front of the skirt 
to keep it above the streets.
  The reason I think it is attached someway in the back of the skirt is the way the fabric 
falls at her side. It has a large volumn of fabric folded and bunched over itself.   All 
that fabric at her side appears to be coming from back to front.

I used this method with one long cord once to hold a pole to someones back for a body puppet.

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:57:00 +0200
Status: RO

Hi.
Boy am i in troubble. I have tryed to make a muslin model of my
embroidered suit, and i cant se how it fits in the back. I dont know any
body who i would trust to fit it for me, so i guess i have to look for
some professional halp.
I  know a lady nearby my work, who makes dresses for ladies and
alterrations and such, do you think i could have her to help me? If i
pay her off cause.
Yes, the embroidery really soon is done, i need to make the back vents
and the cuffs, and therefore my back sides must be absolutely in the
right shape.
I have scanned some photos of the waistcoat embroidery to match the
jacket, and if some of you would like to se, i could post!
Bjarne
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 15:04:12 EDT
Status: RO


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Bjarne, for the amount of work you are putting into that embroidery, it would 
be a crying shame if it didn't fit perfectly.  If you don't have a friend you 
would trust to fit the muslin, by all means pay a professional to do it.  It 
can't possibly cost enough to take a chance on ruining all your beautiful 
work.  And, of course we want to see pictures of anything you do!

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Bjarne, for the amount of work you are putting into that embroidery, it would be a crying shame if it didn't fit perfectly. &nbsp;If you don't have a friend you would trust to fit the muslin, by all means pay a professional to do it. &nbsp;It can't possibly cost enough to take a chance on ruining all your beautiful work. &nbsp;And, of course we want to see pictures of anything you do!
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 17 16:33:56 2002
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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Those white tapes....
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:30:37 -0700
Status: RO

Hi Linda,

That theory has been brought up before and I must say that I thought this was the case as well, until I looked good and hard at the Holbein sketch and decided that the straps around the shoulders and the strap holding up the front of the skirt aren't the same thing.  Numerous other people have reached this conclusion also.  

There are several portraits of wealthy and upper class women wearing the shoulder straps, but alas, they are all 3/4 or 1/2 length, and usually hidden by enormous sleeves.  

http://www.abcgallery.com/H/holbein/holbein21.html

http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1530_2.shtml

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/boleyn1525.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/dauncey.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cecilia.jpg (this is interesting because the straps appear to terminate a little above waist level)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/henegham.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb5.jpg (there are what appear to be two pins in this sketch that are holding the straps to the bodice.  One at the neckline leve and one at the end of the strap)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/roper.jpg

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/margaret.jpg (wide straps)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (the Holbein you mentioned)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/backsketch.jpg (the other Holbein sketch that gets refered to quite a bit.  I'm inclined to believe that the thick bands at the back that form a "V" are probably the shoulder straps viewed from behind)

Now, as far as I've ever been able to tell, English women are the only ones who are depicted wearing these straps.  I'd love to hear if anyone else has a lead on women from other countries sporting the straps.  Also, they are around for a very short space of time, from the 1520's the early 1540's if the portraits are to be believed as dated accuritely.  I've heard the argument that these might be devotional based upon the number of catholic ladies wearing them, which is an interesting theory.  I'm not sure I agree with it, though.  My own theory that is beginning to form is that they are there to keep the shoulders of the bodice on the body... But that's certainly up for debate.  Any thoughts?

Sarah
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:31:56 +0200
Status: RO

Hi
Here, as promised the embroidery for the waistcoat at:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/weeklycostume.htm
It is the cream silk with a wreath of blue forgetmenots. The green balls
i have made green because it is the colour of the jacket.
I have some other better real photos but you have to wait a little, the
film is in the camera, i have taken photos of the embroidery while at
the frame and up close to the jacket it is going to match....

Bjarne


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Those white tapes....
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:02:01 -0700
Status: RO


>I took another look at the few pictures I have seen of those white 
>strap/tape things that you see.  Are there any portraits, of women 
>actually dressed up and sitting for a portrait  with the tapes in them?

Yes.  When I find Davenport's book (in all this mess around here) I will 
give name and page number.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Those white tapes....
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:10:19 -0700
Status: RO


>My own theory that is beginning to form is that they are there to keep the 
>shoulders of the bodice on the body... But that's certainly up for 
>debate.  Any thoughts?

They go over the dress an various angles, so they're not part of the 
dress.  They're not decorated, so they must be utilitarian, probably 
day-to-day.  Mr. Holbein is dead, so we can't ask him.


Kayta
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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Those white tapes....
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:43:41 -0700
Status: RO

That's not what I meant.  The straps are seperate, and yes, obviously not part of the bodice itself.  What I was thinking was that they would be pinned to the bodice to create tension that would keep the sleeves on the shoulders.  Needless to say, I haven't given this theory a try yet... ;)

Sarah

On Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:10:19 -0700 Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:


>My own theory that is beginning to form is that they are there to keep the 
>shoulders of the bodice on the body... But that's certainly up for 
>debate.  Any thoughts?

They go over the dress an various angles, so they're not part of the 
dress.  They're not decorated, so they must be utilitarian, probably 
day-to-day.  Mr. Holbein is dead, so we can't ask him.


Kayta
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:54:09 +0100
Status: RO

On 17 Apr 2002 at 21:31, Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi
> Here, as promised the embroidery for the waistcoat at:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/weeklycostume.htm

Ooh, that's gorgeous!



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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:59:39 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_35.2557e695.29ef3c3b_boundary
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       You do such beautiful work!

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;You do such beautiful work!
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_35.2557e695.29ef3c3b_boundary--
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 17 20:00:39 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits and side-saddles
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:33:36 +0100
Status: RO

>I had an opportunity to learn side-saddle one summer, and then rode same in
a parade.  I practiced w/ a towel draped over my legs to accustom my appy
mare to something flapping around on one side :).

Don't you rug horses in the US ? We have never had problems with the costume
at all

> I tried both the single (curve-up) horn and double (one up, one down) horn
saddles.  It was my understanding the double was meant more for hunting and
I did find it more secure.

The leaping head was a later development, used for leaping (jumping) so yes
it was developed for hunting amazons, but used outside hunting once it was
made, for those who could afford or wanted new saddles

>  I had a problem with one or the other of my legs falling asleep however.

Which one top or bottom ?

>When I did the ride in costume it was a full-skirted one and I had no
problems mounting, dismounting, or moving around on the horse with a full
skirt (altho it was a fairly lt-weight fabric) but I was glad I had had some
practice.

One should never mount or dismount without help, it isn't becomming

> It has been many years since I researched this but I don't remember
finding anything but full-skirted habits.  A museum I catalogued costumes
for while in college had, what we thought, was a riding habit from the late
1800's and it had a full skirt.

I can't remember the exact date for Aprons, but I think it was more 1900s

Mel



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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:50:05 +0200
Status: RO


> I have scanned some photos of the waistcoat embroidery to match the
> jacket, and if some of you would like to se, i could post!
You need to ask us? Are you kidding?!

;)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a bustle
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:06:13 -0700
Status: RO

I've been trying to imagine how it is that I can routinely sit down 
in my farthingale without having to touch my skirts with my hands, 
and without any problems with it most of the time.

First of all, the chair or bench has to be wide enough -- otherwise 
you can't slide all the way back in the seat and do have to sit on 
just the edge, which is uncomfortable for any length of time. This is 
one reason why my portable Renaissance-Faire seating is a small 
padded bench with no sides.

I think what I do that makes a difference is that just before I sit, 
I bend forward a little from the hips. This raises the back of my 
skirt and gives me the necessary slack to sit gracefully. It also 
flattens the back of the top hoop of the farthingale, where it's 
pressed between the back of my legs and the front of the chair, 
causing the hoop to tilt downwards a bit in front, which lessens any 
tendency for it to suddenly flip upwards. What seems to trigger the 
dreaded "farthingale flip" is sitting down too quickly, without 
controlling the back of the hoop with one's legs.

Another contributing factor to having "tame" skirts is that mine are 
rather heavy, and my hoops are fairly flexible, being stiffened with 
the thin 1-inch steel strapping that lumberyards use when shipping 
bundles of boards. (Which also has the advantage of being free, 
though you do have to take it out when you wash the farthingale....)

The drawback to all this (dare I say "flip side"? <g>) is that I have 
twice managed to land unexpectedly on the ground, right on my 
dignity, when I've gone to sit down on a lightweight bench or chair. 
If I sail up to it and execute a graceful 180-degree turn before 
sitting down on it, I have to keep in mind that my heavy skirts are 
quite capable of knocking the thing over behind me, whereupon I get a 
surprise when I try to sit down on something that's no longer there! 
A precautionary look over one's shoulder before sitting is a good 
idea...
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lithiate@earthlink.net writes:


> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
> 
> 

Where did this painting come from? Ruffs in Henry VIII's time???? These girls 
look like they were "taken" from other [and earlier] Tudor paintings.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lithiate@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Where did this painting come from? Ruffs in Henry VIII's time???? These girls look like they were "taken" from other [and earlier] Tudor paintings.</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lithiate@earthlink.net writes:


> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
> 
> 

Where did this painting come from? Ruffs in Henry VIII's time???? These girls 
look like they were "taken" from other [and earlier] Tudor paintings.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lithiate@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Where did this painting come from? Ruffs in Henry VIII's time???? These girls look like they were "taken" from other [and earlier] Tudor paintings.</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] waistcoatembroidery.
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WHAAAHHHH!  The this is too big for my computer to load at any reasonable=
 speed!  If the pictures could be separated onto different thumbnails Or =
something so I can bring up each picture with caption, one at a time, I c=
ould look at what everyone else is drooling over...

Gia/Giacinta
techno challenged

----- Original Message -----
From: Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 1:32 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] waistcoatembroidery.

Hi
Here, as promised the embroidery for the waistcoat at:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/weeklycostume.htm
It is the cream silk with a wreath of blue forgetmenots. The green balls
i have made green because it is the colour of the jacket.
I have some other better real photos but you have to wait a little, the
film is in the camera, i have taken photos of the embroidery while at
the frame and up close to the jacket it is going to match....

Bjarne


Leif Drews
=C5boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  K=F8benhavn V

Bjarne Drews
=C5boulevard 5,3.th
1635 K=F8benhavn V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>WHAAAHHHH!&nbs=
p; The this is too big for my computer to load at any reasonable speed!&n=
bsp; If the pictures could be separated onto different thumbnails Or some=
thing so I can bring up each picture with caption, one at a time, I could=
 look at what everyone else is drooling over...</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <=
DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DIV>techno challenged</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BL=
OCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px=
; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT:=
 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND:=
 #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Leif Drews</DIV> <=
DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, April 17, 2002 1:3=
2 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com=
</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] waistcoat=
embroidery.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Hi<BR>Here, as promised the embroidery=
 for the waistcoat at:<BR>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/weeklycostume.ht=
m<BR>It is the cream silk with a wreath of blue forgetmenots. The green b=
alls<BR>i have made green because it is the colour of the jacket.<BR>I ha=
ve some other better real photos but you have to wait a little, the<BR>fi=
lm is in the camera, i have taken photos of the embroidery while at<BR>th=
e frame and up close to the jacket it is going to match....<BR><BR>Bjarne=
<BR><BR><BR>Leif Drews<BR>=C5boulevard 5, 3 th<BR>1635&nbsp; K=F8benhavn =
V<BR><BR>Bjarne Drews<BR>=C5boulevard 5,3.th<BR>1635 K=F8benhavn V<BR><BR=
>tlf. 35 37 13 70<BR><BR>My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.=
dk<BR><BR>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph<BR><BR>Homepage: h=
ttp://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html<BR><BR><BR>___________=
____________________________________<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costu=
me@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR>=
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lithiate@earthlink.net writes:


> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (the Holbein you mentioned)
> 

Looking at this the arrangement to me seems to be thus:
The straps start on either side front, it looks like at the slightly above 
waist level you mentioned earlier...held by those pins perhaps? They travel 
over the shoulders, cross in back and come to the front to hold up the FRONT 
of the gown. The sash is placed over the pulled up front but not it seems 
over the straps as they come from the back around the sides.
 The back drape is entirely due to the woman holding up the sides of her 
skirts. If she dropped the fabric, the back of the skirts would fall smoothly 
to the ground. The mysterious straps hold nothing up in back.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lithiate@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (the Holbein you mentioned)
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Looking at this the arrangement to me seems to be thus:
<BR>The straps start on either side front, it looks like at the slightly above waist level you mentioned earlier...held by those pins perhaps? They travel over the shoulders, cross in back and come to the front to hold up the FRONT of the gown. The sash is placed over the pulled up front but not it seems over the straps as they come from the back around the sides.
<BR> The back drape is entirely due to the woman holding up the sides of her skirts. If she dropped the fabric, the back of the skirts would fall smoothly to the ground. The mysterious straps hold nothing up in back.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] waistcoatembroidery.
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> photos of the embroidery while at
> the frame and up close to the jacket it is going to match....
> 
> Bjarne
> 

Gorgeous! Marvelous!

Katrin Brjansdottir (who wants to be Bjarne's new best friend!)

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<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">photos of the embroidery while at<BR>
the frame and up close to the jacket it is going to match....<BR>
<BR>
Bjarne<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Gorgeous! Marvelous!<BR>
<BR>
Katrin Brjansdottir (who wants to be Bjarne's new best friend!)</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:20:27 EDT
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In a message dated 4/17/2002 4:15:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:


> They're not decorated, so they must be utilitarian

No no no...don't think this way. You'll get in trouble! Is the sash like belt 
decorated? Chemises sure are utilitarian....and decorated.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/17/2002 4:15:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kayta@frys.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">They're not decorated, so they must be utilitarian</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>No no no...don't think this way. You'll get in trouble! Is the sash like belt decorated? Chemises sure are utilitarian....and decorated.</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:57:26 -0700
Status: RO

**Depends on the saddle really, in later saddles you have potentially a
much stronger seat, and very little change of comming off once yopu have
mastered the scissor grip. I'd rather sit a buck in a side saddle than
astride :) A rear however can be lethal. FIRST RULE of aside riding if
your horse rears don't do side saddle on it.

You are right, it depends if you have a leaping horn.  But that was
again a 'relatively' new invention if you are talking about the entire
length of time that side-saddles were in regular use.  Horses that were
laterally gaited to provide a smoother ride were also used.

Curious, why is a rear on a sidesaddle any more potentially lethal?
Maybe you fall off, maybe get crushed by the horse falling over, or
whacked in the teeth with it's head, but those things can happen astride
as well.

 **.... it is inherently more dangerous to ride side saddle than astride
(in a skirt especially!), though if that were all you did you'd probably
get very proficient at it.
**I disagree it is just what you are used to.**

Yes, I think I said just that here,
 **.... though if that were all you did you'd probably get very
proficient at it.

Back on the topic of historical clothing:
**No the Apron is wore on most occasions and gradually came in after its
invention for hunting, dressage , hacking out etc. Prior to that there
were various other safty skirts too.

So there is some evidence then that the skirts were modified for safety?
And again, if you are talking about the entire length of time that
side-saddles were in regular use, the apron was a recent invention.  

If it isn't more dangerous, why the need for safer skirts and this
cautionary advice?:  If you do riding in full skirts ALWAYS make
fastenings velcro, or by some other method so the rip off you if you
take a fall, acuraccy is not worth an acurate head stoving in as you are
dragged under the horse.  

I don't think most folks would consider quick release garb for clothing
that was less likely to impair your ability to separate from the horse.


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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Those white tapes....
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:59:10 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:00 PM 4/17/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>lithiate@earthlink.net writes:
>
>
>>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
>
>
>Where did this painting come from? Ruffs in Henry VIII's time???? These 
>girls look like they were "taken" from other [and earlier] Tudor paintings.

If I remember correctly, the original painting that Holbein did is now lost 
his sketch can be seen here: 
http://dept.english.upenn.edu/~bushnell/english-30/materials/new_family/morefamily_640x-g4.jpeg 


The painting was reproduced (the one in that image) by someone else in the 
last half of the 16th century.  Lockley I believe
http://dept.english.upenn.edu/~bushnell/english-30/materials/new_family/more_famB_640x-g3.jpeg

The painting at  http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg  is a 
painting that is in the British Galleries at the V & A and is dated to 1593 
- 1594.  If you compare the details between the three images you can see 
how the latest one differs.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:30:32 -0700
Status: RO


> They go over the dress an various angles, so they're not part of the
> dress.  They're not decorated, so they must be utilitarian, probably
> day-to-day.  Mr. Holbein is dead, so we can't ask him.

It's times like these that I desperately want to have a time bubble 
machine: something that takes me back to *look* at the times in a 
way that I don't interact with them (so that they don't look funny at 
me for being out of place time wise and so that I don't catch their 
nasty bugs or smell the place...) Sigh.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:36:52 -0600
Status: RO

Hon, we _all_ want to be Bjarne's new best friend, especially after
drooling over his newest creations <g>
--Sue ;-)
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:42:52 -0600
Status: RO

*snort* I've done that in my Elizabethan stuff, too.  I had to learn to
oh-so-gracefully fumble behind me with one hand, and grab the chair. 
It's quite the suprise to sit on something that's no longer there--kinda
like going up a flight of stairs and thinking there's one more stair
than there actually is <g>
--sue

Chris Laning wrote:
> 

> The drawback to all this (dare I say "flip side"? <g>) is that I have
> twice managed to land unexpectedly on the ground, right on my
> dignity, when I've gone to sit down on a lightweight bench or chair.
> If I sail up to it and execute a graceful 180-degree turn before
> sitting down on it, I have to keep in mind that my heavy skirts are
> quite capable of knocking the thing over behind me, whereupon I get a
> surprise when I try to sit down on something that's no longer there!
> A precautionary look over one's shoulder before sitting is a good
> idea...
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Riding habits & side-saddles
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 07:03:15 +0100
Status: RO

>But that was
again a 'relatively' new invention if you are talking about the entire
length of time that side-saddles were in regular use.

Yes it is a later invention , but prior to that there were generally two
horns either side of the upper leg

> Horses that were
laterally gaited to provide a smoother ride were also used.

This might be true in the States, here we train the horse to ride at paces
suitable for sidesaddle if necessary, generally though any horse will be
ridden aside, except those with very long backs

>Curious, why is a rear on a sidesaddle any more potentially lethal?
Maybe you fall off, maybe get crushed by the horse falling over, or
whacked in the teeth with it's head, but those things can happen astride
as well.

Simply that astride you can leap of if you are quick & the horse is about to
go over, aside you can't very easily, secondly if you have to stay put your
position means you can get far enough forward to get him down, so you
centree of gravity is farther back and he is more likely to go over
backwards in the first place. Thrirdly, if you are planning putting him off,
your upper legs gets in the way & you can't smash & egg on his head easily.
Bad idea rearers aside trust me on this one :)

 >**.... it is inherently more dangerous to ride side saddle than astride
(in a skirt especially!), though if that were all you did you'd probably
get very proficient at it.
**I disagree it is just what you are used to.**

Yes, I think I said just that here,
 **.... though if that were all you did you'd probably get very
proficient at it.

You have snipped and pasted my replies into other places that where I put
them I actually wrote

">It does not have the leaping horn.   I
only use mine to do dressage, a very controlled practice.
  IMHO it is
inherently more dangerous to ride side saddle ithan astride (in a skirt
especially!), though if that were all you did you'd probably get very
proficient at it.

Depends on the saddle really, in later saddles you have potentially a much
stronger seat, and very little change of comming off once yopu have mastered
the scissor grip. I'd rather sit a buck in a side saddle than astride :) A
rear however can be lethal. FIRST RULE of aside riding if your horse rears
don't do side saddle on it.

Having said that I come from slightly mad Quorn country where for
generations ladies have hunted hard aside :)

>The discussions I have always been involved in,
always were along the line of "if you can do that side saddle, you are
really good!".

I disagree it is just what you are used to."

So I am saying that the danger of aside depends on the saddle, not what you
are used to. (taking horse factors out of it)

And I disagree that you are really good to ride a side saddle there are very
poor riders aside & astride, in all disciplines, please do not twist my
words to mean something else.

The better rider you are the less danger there is in any discipline, but
some dangers are there in a style of saddle & however good you get there is
still a higher risk involved. eg more rutpured spleans on western saddles.
More chance of rears & fall over backwards on a side saddle. More chance of
coming off on a buck in an enlidh hunting saddle than a side saddle of the
same period etc.


>Back on the topic of historical clothing:
**No the Apron is wore on most occasions and gradually came in after its
invention for hunting, dressage , hacking out etc. Prior to that there
were various other safty skirts too.

So there is some evidence then that the skirts were modified for safety?

Yes definatly, there were many Patented Safety skirts in the Victorian
period

>And again, if you are talking about the entire length of time that
side-saddles were in regular use, the apron was a recent invention.

There were other safety skirts prior to the apron. But I did not suggest the
Apron was in use at all times, I was stating how the Apron was and is worn
after its invention, obviously it wasn't worn prior to that for anything,
you said it was only used for practice.

>If it isn't more dangerous, why the need for safer skirts and this
cautionary advice?:

Riding in a skirt is more dangerous , any type of riding, if we were
discussing riding in a skirt astride I'd be saying the same thing.

 >I don't think most folks would consider quick release garb for clothing
that was less likely to impair your ability to separate from the horse.

Do you mean they wouldn't think about it for themselves ? This is the reason
I mentioned it as it isn't necessarily an obvious thing to do. I've ridden &
been in a society where it is common place for most of my life so felt the
insight of a habitual aside rider might be of use.

Or do you mean knowing about it they wouldn't consider using it ? If that is
the case then that is their problem, they have been warned ! You can tell
people things are bad for them until you are blue in the face (drugs, drink,
cigarette) but if they won't listen it is their lookout really

Mel

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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:20:58 +0100
Status: RO

Wonderful, Bjarne! The stitches round the outside of the flowers really make them stand out. You must have excellent eyesight and infinite patience to make such tiny stitches.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Those white tapes....
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:39:23 -0700
Status: RO

What I was thinking was that they would be pinned to the bodice to create 
tension that would keep the sleeves on the shoulders.

If you do a V-neck in back, the shoulders stay on by themselves.  I tried 
it - it works.

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Those white tapes....
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 01:30:55 -0700
Status: RO


>>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
>
>
>Where did this painting come from? Ruffs in Henry VIII's time???? These 
>girls look like they were "taken" from other [and earlier] Tudor paintings.

Holbein did a drawing, in 1527, of Sir Thomas More and his family, and did 
a painting from that.  The original painting has been lost, but the one at 
the above site is a later copy, possibly by Holbein but I'm not sure, of 
the same family some years later.  I wouldn't trust the Tudor details in it 
as much as I would the later ones.

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a bustle
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 01:14:00 -0700
Status: RO

I was told to back up to the chair, till you can feel it with the backs of 
your legs, and sit straight down.  No skirt-swooshing, no awkward turns.  I 
think this advice is from the 1850's, but it works for many others.

>*snort* I've done that in my Elizabethan stuff, too.  I had to learn to
>oh-so-gracefully fumble behind me with one hand, and grab the chair.
>It's quite the suprise to sit on something that's no longer there--kinda
>like going up a flight of stairs and thinking there's one more stair
>than there actually is <g>
>--sue
>
>Chris Laning wrote:
> >
>
> > The drawback to all this (dare I say "flip side"? <g>) is that I have
> > twice managed to land unexpectedly on the ground, right on my
> > dignity, when I've gone to sit down on a lightweight bench or chair.
> > If I sail up to it and execute a graceful 180-degree turn before
> > sitting down on it, I have to keep in mind that my heavy skirts are
> > quite capable of knocking the thing over behind me, whereupon I get a
> > surprise when I try to sit down on something that's no longer there!
> > A precautionary look over one's shoulder before sitting is a good
> > idea...
>_______________________________________________
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Kayta
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sitting in a Bustle?
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:51:00 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> ><snortle!>  Perhaps he could include it in a story-telling if he
> >makes 
> it to another of our events?
> 
> Don't temp him ;0)

Pity I missed it, everyone told me how good he was


Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Missing the seat (WAS: Sitting in a bustle)
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 10:05:38 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> The drawback to all this (dare I say "flip side"? <g>) is that I
> have twice managed to land unexpectedly on the ground, right on my
> dignity, when I've gone to sit down on a lightweight bench or
> chair. If I sail up to it and execute a graceful 180-degree turn
> before sitting down on it, I have to keep in mind that my heavy
> skirts are quite capable of knocking the thing over behind me,
> whereupon I get a surprise when I try to sit down on something
> that's no longer there! A precautionary look over one's shoulder
> before sitting is a good idea... -- 

Thanks for the mental image - quite cheered up my morning.



Teddy
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 11:11:19 +0100
Status: RO

He is if anyone wants a story teller, he is avaliable for storytelling,
talks etc etc :)

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] Dating
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:35:20 -0700
Status: RO

Hello all!

Can anyone help me date these dresses?  They're on the Musee de la Mode et
du Textile's website, but with no dating or other information (except for
the date range in the web address).

1836ish?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1830-1850/551.jpg
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1830-1850/552.jpg

Early 1850s?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/792.jpg
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/795.jpg

1850s?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/809.jpg

Later 1860s?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/909.jpg
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/912.jpg

Later 1860s?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/978.jpg

Later 1860s?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/933.jpg
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/935.jpg

1870-73ish?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1002.jpg

1876-78ish?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1082.jpg
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1083.jpg

Either very early or very late 1890s?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1518.jpg

1893-94ish?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1461.jpg
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1465.jpg


I'd appreciate any ideas anyone has!

- Kendra


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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 10:43:11 -0500
Status: RO

From: "Melanie Wilson" 
Don't you rug horses in the US ? We have never had problems with the costume
at all
>I believe some show horses are 'rugged' but this was a working horse that spent most of her time in the pasture, except when we were on the trail.

>  I had a problem with one or the other of my legs falling asleep however.
Which one top or bottom ?
> casting my mind back into the mists of time (too much estroen loss since then :) ), I believe it was the left one, which was braced between the stirrup and downward curved horn.  As I realized what was happening I worked to find a seat that wouldn't do this but can't remember being very successful.  I seem to remember that at first the right leg felt very useless but then I learned how to brace it around the horn.

One should never mount or dismount without help, it isn't becomming
>unfortunately when you are out on the trail rounding up a bunch of steers, or other horses, help is not always an option.  Oh wait a minute, you probably mean when riding side saddle :)?  Guess I was just used to being independent :) :) :).

To stay more or less on topic; would long trailing riding skirts be another example of adherence to the height of fashion being a danger to your health?  I don't have any 19th century links but found this fashion plate on a quick search:
http://members.aol.com/EastLynne/Instyle.htm
That looks like a long train thrown over her arm.  Could look quite elegant flowing along the side of the horse but I would think it could trip you up on the ground, or trying to maneuver your legs around it in a fall.  

Catherine


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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:51:26 -0700
Status: RO

 
> >>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
> >
> >
> >Where did this painting come from? Ruffs in Henry VIII's time????
> >These girls look like they were "taken" from other [and earlier]
> >Tudor paintings.
> 
> Holbein did a drawing, in 1527, of Sir Thomas More and his family, and
> did a painting from that.  The original painting has been lost, but
> the one at the above site is a later copy, possibly by Holbein but I'm
> not sure, of the same family some years later.  I wouldn't trust the
> Tudor details in it as much as I would the later ones.

The original is a pen and ink drawing done by Holbein in 1527 and 
is called the "Basel sketch" (because that's where the sketch still 
"lives".) There are also several single sketches of the sitters done 
by Holbein as well. (It is dated "1530" but this was added in the 
17th or 18th century.) It's not clear why the drawing was done, but 
Holbein gave it to Erasmus on his way home from England to 
Switzerland.

There were several copies of the painting made from this sketch, 
including one by Holbein which was finished in about 1528. If 
Holbein did a painting, it has since been lost. There are two main 
copies: one called the Nostell version is said to be done shortly 
after Holbein did his and the one with the ruffs which was done by 
Rowland Locky c1593. There are several other copies, most of 
which follow the Nostell version (including a miniature).

The one by Locky with the ruffs was probably done at the request 
of one of More's decendants (probably William Roper's son). It was 
done off of the original but he added the later decendants (but took 
out Alice More and Margaret Griggs, as well as Henry Patenson.) 

Can you tell that Thomas More is a favorite historical person for 
me. ;)

If I had to trust a painting, I'd trust the Nostell painting and the 
Basel sketch over any of the others (and there are a lot of them.) 
Details are probably ok in the Locky painting with regards to the 
earlier figures but I don't trust details of things done that much after 
the clothing were worn.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: [h-cost] Gable headdress, what are those?
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:32:25 -0500
Status: RO

Ok, while looking at all the tapes, I decided to look at some headresses... on this 
picture, what are those pointy looking bits that poke outwards from the lower portion of 
the headdress on Lady Eliot?

http://www.abcgallery.com/H/holbein/holbein34.html

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gable headdress, what are those?
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:15:18 +0100
Status: RO

Linda J. Thompson <LindaJThompson@comcast.net> wrote
>Ok, while looking at all the tapes, I decided to look at some 
>headresses... on this picture, what are those pointy looking bits that 
>poke outwards from the lower portion of the headdress on Lady Eliot?
>
>http://www.abcgallery.com/H/holbein/holbein34.html
>
I think they are somehow the ends of the fabric covering of the 
stiffened cap - you see where it's all pinked round the edges?  I can't 
work out exactly what's going on, but I think maybe it's something that 
couldn't be finished off without a cobbled bit, so they made a virtue of 
it and turned it out with a flick.  The bottom of the stiffened cap 
usually turns out on gable hoods - see Jane Seymour or Margaret Pole - 
but it generally looks to be bent across the width of the lappet, not 
just a pointy bit like this one.

Jean
-- 
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:15:18 +0100
Status: RO

Linda J. Thompson <LindaJThompson@comcast.net> wrote
>Ok, while looking at all the tapes, I decided to look at some 
>headresses... on this picture, what are those pointy looking bits that 
>poke outwards from the lower portion of the headdress on Lady Eliot?
>
>http://www.abcgallery.com/H/holbein/holbein34.html
>
I think they are somehow the ends of the fabric covering of the 
stiffened cap - you see where it's all pinked round the edges?  I can't 
work out exactly what's going on, but I think maybe it's something that 
couldn't be finished off without a cobbled bit, so they made a virtue of 
it and turned it out with a flick.  The bottom of the stiffened cap 
usually turns out on gable hoods - see Jane Seymour or Margaret Pole - 
but it generally looks to be bent across the width of the lappet, not 
just a pointy bit like this one.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] re: Those white tapes again.
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:52:26 -0500
Status: RO

Sarah, wonderful sources, thank you.  (wish I had more free time to cruise the net, isn't 
it a marvelous invention.  Have now bookmarked all of the sites for future reference!)

A pair of suspenders is actually what started me on this train of thought.  They come 
straight up the front, and cross over each other in the back.

Ok, on to the portraits you presented.  (I really should be working but this is more fun)
Oh and may I say at this point that I in no way am implying that the tapes could not be 
something else. These are simply my observations and why I believe what I do.  IMHO  of 
course.... And in no way imply others are wrong in their views....And since I only have 
access to reproductions on the computer, there are tons of information missed in these 
views.   That said... onward

 >Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:30:37 -0700
 >From: Sarah Goodman <lithiate@earthlink.net>

 >Hi Linda,

 >That theory has been brought up before and I must say that I thought this was the case 
as well, until I
 >looked good and hard at the Holbein sketch and decided that the straps around the 
shoulders and the
 >strap holding up the front of the skirt aren't the same
 >thing.  Numerous other people have reached this conclusion also.

The upper and lower views of the tapes are not the same tape in the Holbein I refer too? 
The presentation in the picture is at differing angles and could be the same tape, the 
artist is very strong on perspective.  (Not saying it is true or not, just working my side 
of the debate)  :D  Another thought is perhaps there are more than one style of tapes. 
One style to hold the back up (pin to the front, over the shoulder and down to the back of 
the skirt) .  One style to hold the front up.  (comes from front of skirt, wraps around 
back and to the other side of front of skirt.)  And perhaps one style that does both at 
the same time.

http://www.abcgallery.com/H/holbein/holbein21.html
I would have to say that this portrait does not present enough information to say one way 
or the other on their use.  It may be that when the tapes are not in use, it was simply a 
matter of leaving them on to avoid the time of reapplying them as the day progressed.  I 
just cannot imagine what their decorative purpose would be.

http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1530_2.shtml

This shows the straps seemingly wrapping around to the back.  Which could support my 
theory.  Or none of it at all.   :)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/boleyn1525.jpg

Not enough picture to say much, other than they do seem to curve towards the sides of the 
bodice tightly, which can imply tension of some sort. (Perhaps those pins in the other 
portrait?  Or skirts attached in the back?)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/dauncey.jpg

The angle of the tape could easily support what I believe.  The tape obviously curves 
downward and could be going towards the back under the arm.  The upper portion of the tape 
is coming from the back shoulder area from the direction that implies it is coming from 
the center line of the torso.  (Since we can not see the back, this could simply imply 
that it drapes across the back neck and over the other shoulder also.) But it could fit 
within my theory.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cecilia.jpg
 >(this is interesting because the straps appear to terminate a little above waist level)

This could also simply be the tape might be tucked towards the back, or pulled to the back 
to get it out of the way when not in use (folded back at that point?).  Or they could be 
one of the styles I theorized of at the beginnning. (theorized, sounds so much better than 
"made up".  :D since this isn't a science, maybe I should say I "speculated" )

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/henegham.jpg

Would seem that the tapes serve no obvious purpose, but perhaps she was taking a moment to 
sit for the artist on her way to do other duties, so her skirts are actually taped up in 
the front at the moment and that is why the tape seems to go straight down (out of the 
line of view).

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb5.jpg
 >(there are what appear to be two pins in this sketch that are holding the straps to the 
bodice.  One at
 >the neckline level and one at the end of the strap)

Perhaps these are a variation on the straps that hold up both back and front.   This one 
is a mystery to me.  Although I do not believe there is a pin on the shoulder at the 
neckline.  It looks more like a charcoal smudge or something.  It does not have the same 
dimension as the pin on the lower portion.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
Throwing this portrait completely out of the debate.  It is not a portrait from the time 
period we are discussing.  The original sketch yes, but not this picture.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/roper.jpg
I love the detail on that blackwork.... wow... Can not say one way or the other on what 
these straps do, simply not enough information.   However they are there, and seem to go 
down and under the arm with some tension on them?  (Tension meaning that they are firmly 
against the body in some manner)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/margaret.jpg
 >(wide straps)
When I saw this picture years ago (before I knew or even cared about the tapes)  I thought 
this was a kercheif that was folded back.  And if you look at the angle of the drape it is 
not going towards the sides, but towards the front.  Not sure these are even the tapes we 
have been discussing?
But if they were tapes, then they could be holding up the front skirt which would explain 
the angle ( see henegham above)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
 >(the Holbein you mentioned)

Refer to my original post.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/backsketch.jpg
 >(the other Holbein sketch that gets refered to quite a bit.  I'm inclined to believe 
that the thick bands at
 >the back that form a "V" are probably the shoulder straps viewed from behind)

I feel that the "V" we are seeing in the back is not the tapes, but simply a continuation 
of the band that edges the opening of the neckline.  And with the exception of that one 
faint line in the front, I can't see any tapes in evidence.  Look closely at the corner of 
the neckline in the front, where it turns up towards the shoulder.  The horizontal line of 
the front seems to be in front of the vertical line going up.  And to the right of that 
the chain obscures the view too much to say if that is a tape coming up, or simply an 
errant line in the sketch.

 >Now, as far as I've ever been able to tell, English women are the only ones who are 
depicted wearing
 >these straps.  I'd love to hear if anyone else has a lead on women from other countries 
sporting the
 >straps.  Also, they are around for a very short space of time, from the 1520's the early 
1540's if the
 >portraits are to be believed as dated accuritely.

The dating of the straps.   Didn't the style of gown begin to change around the 1540's? 
 From some of the portraiture (the few I have seen in the few books I have) that show the 
full length views, I believe the gowns stopped having folds of fabric dragging the ground 
as much.  At least they do not seem to be dragging as extravagantly as Holbien sketches of 
full views show.  So if this is the case (have not even looked into when the lengths began 
to change), then perhaps the tapes dissapeared simply because they were no longer needed? 
  The portrait of Catherine Parr comes to mind? Her gown stops at the floor. 
http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1545_3.shtml

 >I've heard the argument that these might be devotional based upon the number of catholic 
ladies wearing
 >them, which is an interesting theory.  I'm not sure I agree with it, though.

 From my experience in the Catholic church, once they start a tradition, it never gets 
dropped.  (The reason the host was served straight to the tongue for centuries, was way 
way way back, people would horde it and keep it as a holy object instead of eating it, 
which defeated the purpose of the ceremony.  This did not get changed until the last 
century when hygiene became an issue.)

 >My own theory that is beginning to form is that they are there to keep
 >the shoulders of the bodice on the body... But that's certainly up for debate.  Any 
thoughts?
 >Sarah

In what manner would the straps be attached to the shoulders/sleeves?

***Combining another response to this since it is the same thread***

Hello AlbertCat@aol.com,

I believe the woman is actually holding up her kirtle, not the gown. (She seems to have 3 
skirted items on). If you look to the angle of the fabric, and the way it drapes at the 
back then follow the line up,  you can see through the gap at the arm that her skirts are 
above the waist by more than a few inches and it is fairly full at that.  She may be 
supporting the gown at the sides, but for her skirts to be that high in the back it is 
unlikely that just holding them low at the sides, as it appears, would raise the back that 
high. I have seen many women with heavy to medium weight gowns on at fair, and none of 
them are able to get the backs up that high when there is that much fabric to deal with, 
without having them held up high at the sides.  And the positioning of her one hand that 
we can see, does not support this.

Did they commonly wear bumrolls during the 20's to 40's? Maybe that is where the height 
comes from?
Curious to see how many English portraits from this time show NO tapes? Does anyone know?

And where the tapes actually start on the sides I believe is too shadowed to say whether 
they come from the back or originate at that spot?

Thank you for all of your input.  And I really enjoyed it!
 >
 > From: AlbertCat@aol.com
 > In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
 >>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (the Holbein you mentioned)
 >>
 >
 > Looking at this the arrangement to me seems to be thus:
 > The straps start on either side front, it looks like at the slightly above
 > waist level you mentioned earlier...held by those pins perhaps? They travel
 > over the shoulders, cross in back and come to the front to hold up the FRONT
 > of the gown. The sash is placed over the pulled up front but not it seems
 > over the straps as they come from the back around the sides.
 >  The back drape is entirely due to the woman holding up the sides of her
 > skirts. If she dropped the fabric, the back of the skirts would fall smoothly
 > to the ground. The mysterious straps hold nothing up in back.
 >
 > --part1_1a0.df5e22.29ef7749_boundary
 > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 >
 > <HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message 
dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lithiate@earthlink.net writes:
 > <BR>
 > <BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
 > <BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; 
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (the 
Holbein you mentioned)
 > <BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" 
LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
 > <BR>
 > <BR>Looking at this the arrangement to me seems to be thus:
 > <BR>The straps start on either side front, it looks like at the slightly above waist 
level you mentioned earlier...held by those pins perhaps? They travel over the shoulders, 
cross in back and come to the front to hold up the FRONT of the gown. The sash is placed 
over the pulled up front but not it seems over the straps as they come from the back 
around the sides.
 > <BR> The back drape is entirely due to the woman holding up the sides of her skirts. If 
she dropped the fabric, the back of the skirts would fall smoothly to the ground. The 
mysterious straps hold nothing up in back.</FONT></HTML>
 >
 > --part1_1a0.df5e22.29ef7749_boundary--
 >



-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr 18 18:37:41 2002
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From: Debra Douglass <ddoug@catrio.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Online for Trigger cloth?
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:35:14 -0500
Status: RO

Could someone recommend an online source for trigger cloth in a
variety of colors (including grey)?

Thanks,

-Debra
-- 
.------------------------------------------------------------------.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr 18 18:57:37 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: Those white tapes again.
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 14:55:30 -0700
Status: RO

Hi Linda,

Unfortunately, I don't have time to respond to the whole email at the
moment, but I wanted to toss something else out for thought...

Looking at the More sketches and the various portraits of the More women I
refered to, I was thinking... Wonder if these straps have some symbolic
purpose for pregnancy?  Okay, this is really reaching, but the sketch of
Mother Jack got me thinking about this
(http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb5.jpg).  She was Edward's wetnurse, I
believe... And in the sketch, she looks pregnant...  And the More ladies are
preggers, too.  In the larger More family sketches, the nonpregnant women
are not shown wearing these straps (note to self: find picture of the
Holbein sketch to share).  Of course the big caveat with this theory is that
in the other 98% of artwork we have that shows these straps there is no way
to tell whether or not the woman being shown is pregnant (unless some brave
soul wants to venture out into Research Land and see if there's a reference
to a pregnancy or recent birth at the time when the portrait was painted).

Okay, just food for thought.  I'll get back to the rest of the email after
class tonight... :)

Sarah

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] waistcoatembroidery.
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:15:24 -0400
Status: RO

Well, the votes are in...Bjarne rocks!
I showed your web-site to a couple of friends of mine and they were
flabberghasted! One of them is a needlework laurel (in the SCA) and we
thought she was insane (in a good way), but you win!
Laurie
> Wonderful, Bjarne! The stitches round the outside of the flowers really make
> them stand out. You must have excellent eyesight and infinite patience to make
> such tiny stitches.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:58:54 -0500
Status: RO



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kendra Van Cleave
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:35 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Dating

Hello all!

Can anyone help me date these dresses?  They're on the Musee de la Mode
et
du Textile's website, but with no dating or other information (except
for
the date range in the web address).
**********************************
This one looks like early 20th century to me--look at the puffed-out
tummy and the high waisted back. 1903?
Kim

1893-94ish?
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1461.jpg
http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1465.jpg




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr 18 20:03:48 2002
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:56:43 -0700
Status: RO

At 10:05 AM +0000 4/18/02, Teddy wrote:
>Thanks for the mental image - quite cheered up my morning.

You're welcome <grin>!

Unfortunately the second time I did this, I managed to land just 
right to break one of the bars on my (then) embroidery frame, 
rendering the whole thing instantly useless. Fortunately it was a $15 
garage sale 'find' so I wasn't out a lot of money. And it spurred me 
to actually get a local woodworker to make me a new one, which I'm 
very proud of!

The other neat trick in a farthingale that I enjoy is startling 
people (backstage) at outdoor costumed events when I emerge in a full 
farthingale from a normal-sized port-a-privy. The secret is that 
before you enter said privy, you use one hand to pull the farthingale 
and overskirt all the way up to your waist in the back. This keeps 
the hoops under control so you can turn around once you get inside 
and shut the door. All that's necessary when you emerge is to let the 
hoops fall back into place, and then genteelly jump up and down a few 
times to settle all the skirts. (I'm told the period method of doing 
this is to twirl around a few times; rumor has it there are actual 
citations of people for twirling in the streets......)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:10:16 -0400
Status: RO

BOSTONHAHN@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Sorry to answer this message so late.  Holbein did 5 or 6 edgings on
> Swiss Ladies, it was called a costume study.  If you cannot find those
> pictures I have them in a Holbein exhibit book.  If I am not mistaken
> the exhibit was in Basel Switzerland.
> Elisabeth

Thanks to everyone for their information on Swiss clothing! I've passed
on all your comments to my friend. I'm sure she will find them helpful.

--Jessica
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Those white tapes....
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:32:22 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


> Re: Those white tapes....
 Thought this would be an interesting addition to the
discussion......
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Margaret%20Pole.jpg
 Personally I did my Tudor with a V-neck back cut on
the straight so it wouldn't stretch, and had no
problem with the shoulders falling off. The one I did
for a friend had minor problems which I fixed by
making the shoulders straps tighter.

Sheila

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: Those white tapes again.
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In a message dated 4/18/02 4:52:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LindaJThompson@comcast.net writes:


> I believe the woman is actually holding up her kirtle, not the gown. (She 
> seems to have 3 
> 

Agreed. She is holding in her hand the second layer. But I believe she is 
also supporting the outer layer. The folds are very thick and don't seem to 
me anyway to be supported by any padding or tapes. The deep folds may be 
pinned at the sides, but I don't see how the tapes could hold this 
arrangement without us seeing it at the angle she is depicted. The drape 
seems to be "free" across the back, from what I can see,

It's amazing these tapes are not mentioned in diaries or something. Some of 
the most obscure stuff is mentioned in all periods. I'm surprised there's no 
letter from mother to daughter explaining "strap fashion". Perhaps it's in a 
trunk somewhere just waiting to be discovered.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 4/18/02 4:52:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, LindaJThompson@comcast.net writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I believe the woman is actually holding up her kirtle, not the gown. (She seems to have 3 
<BR>skirted items on</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Agreed. She is holding in her hand the second layer. But I believe she is also supporting the outer layer. The folds are very thick and don't seem to me anyway to be supported by any padding or tapes. The deep folds may be pinned at the sides, but I don't see how the tapes could hold this arrangement without us seeing it at the angle she is depicted. The drape seems to be "free" across the back, from what I can see,
<BR>
<BR>It's amazing these tapes are not mentioned in diaries or something. Some of the most obscure stuff is mentioned in all periods. I'm surprised there's no letter from mother to daughter explaining "strap fashion". Perhaps it's in a trunk somewhere just waiting to be discovered.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1400's Danish?
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:46:33 -0400
Status: RO

Mary Temple wrote:
> A friend of mine is searching for information on 1400's men's Danish 
> clothing. Could someone please give me some leads?

Hello,
	Oddly Margrethe Hald's book does deal with info on medeaval 
stuff. She mentions Boksten and also Kragelund (4 gore 
tunic) about the same time, and shows photos of some 
medieval finds. It's _Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and 
Burial_ Margrethe Hald. Copenhagen: The National Museum of 
Denmark. 1980. ISBN 87-480-0312-3

	In my copy of _Danske bonders Kladedragt_ it says (in the 
English summary, since I can't read the Danish!) "The 
peasant's grey fireze coat is mentioned in ancient ballads, 
and in 15th cent wall-paintings in churches and in 
illustartions of later date we see farmers working in short 
coats. A short white frieze coat was the everyday working 
dress in many parts of the country up to the 1850s. 
Presumably early peasnat coats did not differ greatly from 
the short frieze coats dating respectively from the Iron Age 
and from the 13-14th century that have been found in 
Scandinavia; they were probably pulled on over tyhe head and 
had no collar, cuffs or pocket flaps.
	"Kirtle ("Kjortel"). [snipped] The sole surviving kirtle 
which has reatined the Mediaeval cut with no back-seam, and 
with inset gussets at the sides." (sorry, that's the whole 
sentence, it doesn't lead anywhere!). Ah! There's a picture 
of a wall-painting on p109 that's dated 1460, the caption 
says "Peasnat dressed in a sshort white kirtle, and long 
trousers". This book is _Danske Bonders Dlaededragt_ by 
Ellen Andersen.Copenhagen: 1960. I have gotten it through 
ILL, though I found my own edition. It's mostly aimed at 
1700 & 1800s, but there are nuggest of earlier info.


	Hope this helps!
	-Judy Mitchell


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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:53:38 -0500
Status: RO

Oh my, Bjarne, we are not worthy. ;)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dating
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 01:34:12 -0400
Status: RO

Kim,

My guess, 1901-1905... since it looks really fashionable.  It is really
lovely.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim Baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 6:58 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dating


>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Kendra Van Cleave
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:35 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Dating
>
> Hello all!
>
> Can anyone help me date these dresses?  They're on the Musee de la Mode
> et
> du Textile's website, but with no dating or other information (except
> for
> the date range in the web address).
> **********************************
> This one looks like early 20th century to me--look at the puffed-out
> tummy and the high waisted back. 1903?
> Kim
>
> 1893-94ish?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1461.jpg
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1465.jpg
>
>
>
>
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:51:15 +0200
Status: RO

That is beautifull!!!
It is not my period but a dress like this make my hands itch.
And want to make it my period..:-)

Greetings,
        Deredere

Kim Baird wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Kendra Van Cleave
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:35 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Dating
>
> Hello all!
>
> Can anyone help me date these dresses?  They're on the Musee de la Mode
> et
> du Textile's website, but with no dating or other information (except
> for
> the date range in the web address).
> **********************************
> This one looks like early 20th century to me--look at the puffed-out
> tummy and the high waisted back. 1903?
> Kim
>
> 1893-94ish?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1461.jpg
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1465.jpg
>
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: Those white tapes again.
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:43:49 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb5.jpg

> > (there are what appear to be two pins in this sketch that are
> > holding the straps to the bodice.  One at the neckline level and one
> > at the end of the strap) 
 
> Perhaps these are a variation on the straps that hold up both back
> and front.   This one is a mystery to me.  Although I do not
> believe there is a pin on the shoulder at the neckline.  It looks
> more like a charcoal smudge or something.  It does not have the
> same dimension as the pin on the lower portion. 

I see three pns there... a fine/thin one on the shoulder, the head and 
a bit of the shaft of the second (heavier/thicker) one at the corner of 
the neckline and the (finish) point of the third at the very bottom of 
the tape.
 
S'what it looks like to me at any rate.



Teddy
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 19 10:00:41 2002
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: [h-cost] the frau is back, re: swiss costume
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 00:54:06 +1200
Status: RO

Well I have uploaded the refurbished monstrously huge frazzledfrau. Now I
shall find it infinately easier to add new files, update links etc thanks to
my handy dandy new system of naming the htm files by the corresponding
thumbnail files.

And I uploaded a few new holbein sketches which is why I have reposted under
this heading.
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/othergerman.htm
Has a subsection called swiss style. Either definately swiss (Holbein,
Altdorfer) or looking suspiciously like the style from that area. But
without me knowing much about the painter. Thus I shall be doing a spot of
research over the next few days.

Anyway, the three Holbein sketches are:
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/1520baselholbein.htm
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/1520sholbeinbasel.htm
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/1520sswissholbein.htm

Note my remarkably unimaginative file naming.

I shall soon be putting proper links to some images, as they are temporariy
on my site untill such time as I figure out the best links within
museum/gallery sites- in other words I have forgotten in just what huge text
files I have them in.

michaela

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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:09:39 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne, this is beautiful!!!  Absolutely gorgeous :).  And *naturally* you did all the gold lace for the other coat :).  I'm going to have to look up that pattern.

I have now added a trip to visit Bjarne to my list of things-I-am-going-to-do-if-I-ever-win-the-lottery.  

Catherine

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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: pregnancies/straps
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:37:36 -0400
Status: RO


Well, the idea of the white straps being some sort of symbolic or practical
garment for pregnancy is very interesting. One of the pictures referenced
was of Catherine of Aragon, the queen of England. It ought to be easy enough
for someone to check if she was pregnant at the time the picture was
painted. She was pregnant rather often, I believe, although she only bore
one live child. And of course, with Henry VIII as her husband, she certainly
WANTED to be pregnant with that all-important boy!

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 19 12:14:51 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Titanic-era patterns- opinions?
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:12:13 -0400
Status: RO

Has anyone here tried either the Laughing Moon or the Sense and 
Sensibility Titanic-ear patterns? If so, I'd really appreciate 
hearing some opinions about them, and how well they work. They have 
quite similar lines, so I'm reluctant to get both, but have no way of 
choosing which one. The pattern review site has neither, 
unfortunately. I have Laughing Moon's Victorian corset pattern, and 
like the corset but found the chemise fits me oddly, and I have no 
experience with S&S's patterns myself.

I'm not planning on a real historical recreation necessarily, at 
least not with this one, but want one or two fancy, pretty dresses to 
get dressed up in.

Thanks in advance!

-Amanda
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Titanic-era patterns- opinions?
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:35:19 -0500
Status: RO

I have used several other laughing Moon patterns, and found them to be
excellent, and a super value for the price.

Sorry, can't comment on the other company, never having tried any.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of sustre@pixelations.com
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 10:12 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Titanic-era patterns- opinions?

Has anyone here tried either the Laughing Moon or the Sense and 
Sensibility Titanic-ear patterns? If so, I'd really appreciate 
hearing some opinions about them, and how well they work. They have 
quite similar lines, so I'm reluctant to get both, but have no way of 
choosing which one. The pattern review site has neither, 
unfortunately. I have Laughing Moon's Victorian corset pattern, and 
like the corset but found the chemise fits me oddly, and I have no 
experience with S&S's patterns myself.

I'm not planning on a real historical recreation necessarily, at 
least not with this one, but want one or two fancy, pretty dresses to 
get dressed up in.

Thanks in advance!

-Amanda
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 19 13:38:09 2002
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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pregnancies/straps
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:34:17 -0700
Status: RO

> 
> Well, the idea of the white straps being some sort of symbolic or practical
> garment for pregnancy is very interesting. One of the pictures referenced
> was of Catherine of Aragon, the queen of England. It ought to be easy enough
> for someone to check if she was pregnant at the time the picture was
> painted. She was pregnant rather often, I believe, although she only bore
> one live child. And of course, with Henry VIII as her husband, she certainly
> WANTED to be pregnant with that all-important boy!


Well, there's one potentially problematic thing about that theory I coughed up last night... One of the portraits that shows the white straps is of Anne Boleyn, dated 1525.  *If* we take this to be an accuritely dated portrait that *really* is of Anne, this makes the white straps/pregnancy/fertility thing a bit off.  She was *supposedly* still a virgin at this point (or at least was making every attempt to appear such)and the birth of Elizabeth was still 8 years in the future... 

There's always the chance that this picture isn't of Anne.  It's possible it's even of her sister, Mary, who made no secret her looseness.  I know that no contemporary portraits have ever been reliably dated as being of Anne, other than the copies that were done later in the century or at the beginning of the 17th century.  Sooooo... 

Another possibility is that these straps aren't linked so much to pregnancy, but maybe are a matron thing.  I'm still thinking about that Holbein sketch of the More family... I believe all the ladies in the sketch are married, but Anne Cresacre who was recently married to one of the More boys, isn't wearing the straps, where as the other ladies are.  Maybe she was just on the cutting edge of fashion... But, the white straps persist for another 20 years after that sketch was done... Argh.

Okay, enough of my rambling. :)

Sarah
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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pregnancies/straps
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:36:48 -0700
Status: RO

> 
> Well, the idea of the white straps being some sort of symbolic or practical
> garment for pregnancy is very interesting. One of the pictures referenced
> was of Catherine of Aragon, the queen of England. It ought to be easy enough
> for someone to check if she was pregnant at the time the picture was
> painted. She was pregnant rather often, I believe, although she only bore
> one live child. And of course, with Henry VIII as her husband, she certainly
> WANTED to be pregnant with that all-important boy!


Well, there's one potentially problematic thing about that theory I coughed up last night... One of the portraits that shows the white straps is of Anne Boleyn, dated 1525.  *If* we take this to be an accuritely dated portrait that *really* is of Anne, this makes the white straps/pregnancy/fertility thing a bit off.  She was *supposedly* still a virgin at this point (or at least was making every attempt to appear such)and the birth of Elizabeth was still 8 years in the future... 

There's always the chance that this picture isn't of Anne.  It's possible it's even of her sister, Mary, who made no secret her looseness.  I know that no contemporary portraits have ever been reliably dated as being of Anne, other than the copies that were done later in the century or at the beginning of the 17th century.  Sooooo... 

Another possibility is that these straps aren't linked so much to pregnancy, but maybe are a matron thing.  I'm still thinking about that Holbein sketch of the More family... I believe all the ladies in the sketch are married, but Anne Cresacre who was recently married to one of the More boys, isn't wearing the straps, where as the other ladies are.  She's also not pregnant and wears a different style of headdress.  Maybe she was just on the cutting edge of fashion... But, the white straps persist for another 20 years after that sketch was done... Argh.

Okay, enough of my rambling. :)

Sarah
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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Re: pregnancies/straps
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:39:04 -0700
Status: RO

Ugh.  Sorry for the repeat email.  My server is a total spaz sometimes... My appologies.

Sarah
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 19 15:31:47 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] pins on tape
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 13:31:49 -0500
Status: RO

Ahah, I do see the small one at the very base of the tape.  But I am still not sure the 
one on the shoulder is a pin.  Maybe the pin was bent or something, but the 2 small marks 
do not line up as a pin would if run through and then out the fabric.  The only reason I 
even mention it, is that Holbien was known for his exacting perspective in a time when it 
was not taken all that seriously at times.

Linda T
 >
 > I see three pns there... a fine/thin one on the shoulder, the head and
 > a bit of the shaft of the second (heavier/thicker) one at the corner of
 > the neckline and the (finish) point of the third at the very bottom of
 > the tape.
 >
 > S'what it looks like to me at any rate.
 >
 >
 >
 > Teddy
 >






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From: Shalazar <shalazar@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pins on tape
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 12:38:20 -0700
Status: RO

It actually looks like there are pins on the left hand strap as well, at
the bottom and just above the top of the breast.

Nan L.

--
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to
learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable
for their apparent disinclination to do so."

 - Douglas Adams (1952-2001)    English novelist


"Throughout history,
 it has been the inaction of those who could have acted;
 the indifference of those who should have known better;
 the silence of the voice of justice when it mattered most;
 that has made it possible for evil to triumph."

` -Haile Selassie


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1400's Danish?
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:20:07 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. I have a book called "Danmark I Fest Og Glaede" It was written in
1935, so no ISBN. A lot of illos in it are wall paintings, as Bjarne said,
from church murals or frescos. A group is from Bellinge Kirke, Jetsmark
Kirke and Hove Kirke. One, looking 15th Cent., is from Vigersted Kirke,
and shows the earliest representation I have seen of a man juggling
knives. You might want to try some sites that show Danish Church art. Try
some Scandinavian press titles or some art houses. Good Luck, Mike T.



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Subject: [h-cost] Almost FO: hakama!
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 23:32:51 +0000
Status: RO

Almost FO - black hakama for my husband. (They're almost done because I 
haven't put the hem in - that happens tonight) The worst problem I had was 
the pleating for the front, but now that I have a apir in front of me, the 
next pair won't be too bad...

Next up: under kosode! (white under kimono)

Mary/Katerine

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Subject: [h-cost] 1910s shoe search.
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 21:27:40 -0400
Status: RO

Hello, all.

I have an upcoming wedding to attend in late July, and 
have my outfit in the works.  I like to incorporate the old
with the new, and this time I'm taking a stroll in the 1910s.
Literally.  I'm making a hobble skirt!  It's along these lines,
but a bit fancier:
http://www.pastpatterns.com/5462.html

I'm knitting a lace jacket to go over a camisole :
http://www.whiteliesdesigns.com/patterns/lcardigans/106.html

The jacket yarn is a lovely greyed-down purple cotton, and I
plan to make the camisole and skirt in a dove grey rayon.
Nice and cool and drapey for a summer wedding.

Now, here's the question:
I need 1910-style shoes!  Any idea where I might find some?
Here's what I'm looking for:
http://www.centuryinshoes.com/decades/1910/1910.html
Either the center left or center right shoe, but I'm leaning 
toward the center left one.

Any ideas?  The wedding is July 20, so I have to get things
together relatively soon.

TIA,
Michelle
================================================================================
                      Steve & Michelle Plumb   --    splumb225904MI@comcast.net
                                     Plymouth, Michigan  USA


"Remember:  If you can hear the dynamite hissing,
 	        you're too close."

				--Graham Greene
				   as Edgar Montrose
				   in the Red Green Show

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1910s shoe search.
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 19:53:50 -0700
Status: RO


>Now, here's the question:
>I need 1910-style shoes!  Any idea where I might find some?
>Here's what I'm looking for:
>http://www.centuryinshoes.com/decades/1910/1910.html
>Either the center left or center right shoe, but I'm leaning
>toward the center left one.

Thrift stores in California have shoes like the center right one.  I see 
them every once in a while.  I'd look there.

Kayta
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 00:12:44 -0400
Status: RO

I forgot to mention that I was looking for 
new shoes, not vintage.

My feet are far too big for vintage shoes!
No way I'm ever going to cram my 9 wides
into a narrow anything.   <g>

Michelle
================================================================================
                      Steve & Michelle Plumb   --    splumb225904MI@comcast.net
                                     Plymouth, Michigan  USA


"Remember:  If you can hear the dynamite hissing,
 	        you're too close."

				--Graham Greene
				   as Edgar Montrose
				   in the Red Green Show

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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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<-----Original Message----->
>=20
> From: sustre@pixelations.com
> Has anyone here tried either the Laughing Moon or the Sense and=20
> Sensibility Titanic-ear patterns?=20

If you mean S&S Tea gown pattern, I=B4ve used it and was very happy with
it. I made some alterations to the pattern as I was using different
materials from the recommendations, but all in all it worked very well.
The instructions are very clear and there are instructions also online,
plus lovely photo gallery to give you a lot of ideas. Highly
recommended.

Riina

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<font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Get your own FREE email account at iVillage.com!<br><a href="http://webmail.ivillage.com/">http://webmail.ivillage.com/</a>  </font><BR><BR><-----Original Message-----><BR>>  <BR>> From: sustre@pixelations.com<BR>> Has anyone here tried either the Laughing Moon or the Sense and <BR>> Sensibility Titanic-ear patterns? <BR><BR>If you mean S&S Tea gown pattern, I´ve used it and was very happy with it. I made some alterations to the pattern as I was using different materials from the recommendations, but all in all it worked very well. The instructions are very clear and there are instructions also online, plus lovely photo gallery to give you a lot of ideas. Highly recommended.<BR><BR>Riina
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the frau is back, re: swiss costume
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 02:19:05 -0700
Status: RO

Davenport's costume book has a very few you don't have.  You might look in 
there, because it gives where the originals are located.

>Well I have uploaded the refurbished monstrously huge frazzledfrau.


Kayta
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] FW: Frazzeled Frau Web mistress?
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 09:16:53 -0700
Status: RO

Michaela-I didn't realize the Frazzled Frau was yours.  I just love the
name.  I contacted Drea a few months ago to find out if she knew your
name.  Is there a reason you don't have a contact on the site??  Anyway,
I wanted to ask you about a doll picture you had-I don't see it now, but
some of your pages aren't loading for me.  (Not positive, but some are
and I have a very fast connection and computer-could there be something
wrong?)  The question and link (broken?) is below.  Thanks for a
wonderful site!

-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 9:10 AM
To: aleed
Subject: RE: Frazzeled Frau Web mistress?


I wondered where she had gotten this picture of a doll.  I wondered if
it was a photo of a doll or a drawing-it is a little hard to tell.  Hope
you can help-thanks

http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/image97.htm



**-----Original Message-----
**From: aleed [mailto:aleed@dnaco.net]
**Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 1:21 PM
**To: Saragrace Knauf
**Subject: Re: Frazzeled Frau Web mistress?
**
**
**
**Hm, no, I don't.  But I have lots of pics of German stuff--which
picture **do you have a question about?
**
**Thanks,
**
**Drea
**
**On Mon, 4 Feb 2002, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
**
**> Drea, do you know how to contact the lady (I assume) who owns the
**> Frazzeled Frau website?  I don't see a contact and would like to ask
her **> a question about one of her pictures. **> **> Thanks, **> **>
Saragrace **>
**
**

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Apr 20 13:51:51 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Period Hats Class in Phoenix, AZ
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 09:41:23 -0700
Status: RO

I should have thought about this sooner, but Nola Yergen and  I will be
teaching a hat class tomorrow in central Phoenix, AZ if there is anyone
interested.

Nola will be teaching the Liripipe hood and a swallow tail traveling
hat.  I will be teaching the "Flemmish Bonnet" straw bending hat, the
caul, and attifet.

Sorry about the short notice.  If you can't make it this time and are
interested in future classes (they go on all the time), feel free to
contact me off list.

Saragrace 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Apr 20 14:22:15 2002
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 10:20:11 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Bjarne (and others who were interested),
I've finally opened the moving boxes & found the Hamburg catalog I was talking
about... oh, maybe 6 months ago.  The catalog is "Voila: Glanzstuchke
historisher Moden 1750-1960".  It's billed as "ein Mode-Streifzug durch das
Musem fur Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg".  

Hope that gets you enough info to hunt down a new costume collection on your
next trip to Hamburg.  Bon voyage!

--cin
(formerly Cynthia in Tokyo)


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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 20:32:06 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Cynthia
Ohhhhh thanks a lot, i was really glad to hear this, i must go soon!
Bye the way i go to London next month, and i wondered if there was more to go to
than the exhibit with royal wedding dresses trough 100 years at Kensington Palace?

Thanks again

Bjarne

Cin wrote:

> Bjarne (and others who were interested),
> I've finally opened the moving boxes & found the Hamburg catalog I was talking
> about... oh, maybe 6 months ago.  The catalog is "Voila: Glanzstuchke
> historisher Moden 1750-1960".  It's billed as "ein Mode-Streifzug durch das
> Musem fur Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg".
>
> Hope that gets you enough info to hunt down a new costume collection on your
> next trip to Hamburg.  Bon voyage!
>
> --cin
> (formerly Cynthia in Tokyo)
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
> http://games.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the frau is back, re: swiss costume
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 13:31:32 -0700
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>And I uploaded a few new Holbein sketches

Holbein did a book, called 'The Dance of Death' in it's Dover reprint (ISBN 
0-486-22804-5), where all the woodcuts were done between 1523-26 when he 
lived in Basel, Switzerland.  There are costumes for men, women, the rich, 
the poor, the elderly, the young, church men and women, and the military in 
it.  And lots of nice skeletons too.

Kayta
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:32:50 +1200
Status: RO

Hi:)

> Michaela-I didn't realize the Frazzled Frau was yours.  I just love the
> name.  I contacted Drea a few months ago to find out if she knew your
> name.  Is there a reason you don't have a contact on the site??

Yeah it's mine, I just realised last night that I haven't got any contact
info.. it wasn't really anything other than totally forgetting to put it
up;)

I got the name after seeing one too many portraits where the woman looked
stunned as a deer caught in the headlights of an on coming truck. it's an
affectionate but humourous homage to all the woman painted at the time:).

I'm getting my introduction and contact page written.. as I try and figure
out just what to write;)

> I wanted to ask you about a doll picture you had-I don't see it now, but
> some of your pages aren't loading for me.  (Not positive, but some are
> and I have a very fast connection and computer-could there be something
> wrong?)  The question and link (broken?) is below.  Thanks for a
> wonderful site!

Ahh yes.. I don't think I have her link up right now. She should be listed
on the other countries page.. but with my recent total overhaul, I've
dropped a few images in advertently.

She is now on page:
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/1600doll.htm
She is a real doll, and I did find a link to her at the museum site she came
from.. I'll dig around in old posts to see if I have a nice direct link.
She's an automaton, and from around 1600. Absolutely stunning yellow brocade
gown with silver and red trimming.
http://www.khm.at/system2E.html?/staticE/page1808.html

The book I found her in said she was italian, but the museum says spin.. so
it'll probably be the latter;)

If the links aren't working at my site and you are using imagexyz.htm links,
then that's because of the new file structure:). I found it impossible to
update using the old system (a relic of using arles thumbnail/html
generater). Now I can just use the thumbnail/image file name and can keep
track when links change etc.

However I have had some problems with Ws_ftp and being disconnected a number
of times while uploading. So if any new links are broken I'll fix them asap.

Now I have a *huge* number of new files to link after spending several hours
over at bildindex.de. The single largest collection of german art *anywhere*
on the net. I have found you can direct link to the images so that makes
things easier, as the pages generated as not able to be linked to.

Anyway, I'm just gloating over my find of real seed perls, 11" strand for
less than $US1 :D lovely lovely ones. And they aren't cultured, they are
irregularly shaped, but nothing like those rice crispie ones. They look just
the same as seed pearls seen in antique jewelery. So now I have to decide
what to do with them:) What ever I do, it will be as authentic as I can make
it:).

michaela


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References: <3CBF320A.9000900@comcast.net> <4.3.1.2.20020420132547.04ffba00@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the frau is back, re: swiss costume
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:36:06 +1200
Status: RO

> Holbein did a book, called 'The Dance of Death' in it's Dover reprint
(ISBN > 0-486-22804-5), where all the woodcuts were done between 1523-26
when he
> lived in Basel, Switzerland.  There are costumes for men, women, the rich,
> the poor, the elderly, the young, church men and women, and the military
in
> it.  And lots of nice skeletons too.

lol! Skeletons.. heheh, thanks I'll have to order the book:). I love how
Dover repints all these books.. and so much more cheaply than most other
companies:)

michaela

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Apr 20 23:06:21 2002
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Historic doll on the Frazzled Frau site!!  SOoOoOoO Cooool!
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 18:52:36 -0700
Status: RO

WOW!  I was going to ask you what you meant by automaton, but now I
know!!  I didn't think they  they were doing that sort of thing back
then, but once I thought about it, they were making 'regular' clocks by
then......so sheesh.  I am still impressed!! Thank you very much.  I
can't wait to share it with my doll group!!

http://www.khm.at/system2E.html?/staticE/page1808.html

  I just have to get my period doll up.  I have three finished objects
that I need to get on my site.  Accck, my site looks so horrible right
now, but no time to fix!!

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of michaela
**Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 6:33 PM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: Frazzeled Frau Web mistress?
**
**
**Hi:)
**
**> Michaela-I didn't realize the Frazzled Frau was yours.  I just love 
**> the name.  I contacted Drea a few months ago to find out if 
**she knew 
**> your name.  Is there a reason you don't have a contact on the site??
**
**Yeah it's mine, I just realised last night that I haven't got 
**any contact info.. it wasn't really anything other than 
**totally forgetting to put it
**up;)
**
**I got the name after seeing one too many portraits where the 
**woman looked stunned as a deer caught in the headlights of an 
**on coming truck. it's an affectionate but humourous homage to 
**all the woman painted at the time:).
**
**I'm getting my introduction and contact page written.. as I 
**try and figure out just what to write;)
**
**> I wanted to ask you about a doll picture you had-I don't 
**see it now, 
**> but some of your pages aren't loading for me.  (Not 
**positive, but some 
**> are and I have a very fast connection and computer-could there be 
**> something
**> wrong?)  The question and link (broken?) is below.  Thanks for a
**> wonderful site!
**
**Ahh yes.. I don't think I have her link up right now. She 
**should be listed on the other countries page.. but with my 
**recent total overhaul, I've dropped a few images in advertently.
**
**She is now on page:
**http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/1600doll.htm
**She is a real doll, and I did find a link to her at the 
**museum site she came from.. I'll dig around in old posts to 
**see if I have a nice direct link. She's an automaton, and 
**from around 1600. Absolutely stunning yellow brocade gown 
**with silver and red trimming. 
**http://www.khm.at/system2E.html?/staticE/page1808.html
**
**The 
**book I found her in said she was italian, but the museum says 
**spin.. so it'll probably be the latter;)
**
**If the links aren't working at my site and you are using 
**imagexyz.htm links, then that's because of the new file 
**structure:). I found it impossible to update using the old 
**system (a relic of using arles thumbnail/html generater). Now 
**I can just use the thumbnail/image file name and can keep 
**track when links change etc.
**
**However I have had some problems with Ws_ftp and being 
**disconnected a number of times while uploading. So if any new 
**links are broken I'll fix them asap.
**
**Now I have a *huge* number of new files to link after 
**spending several hours over at bildindex.de. The single 
**largest collection of german art *anywhere* on the net. I 
**have found you can direct link to the images so that makes 
**things easier, as the pages generated as not able to be linked to.
**
**Anyway, I'm just gloating over my find of real seed perls, 
**11" strand for less than $US1 :D lovely lovely ones. And they 
**aren't cultured, they are irregularly shaped, but nothing 
**like those rice crispie ones. They look just the same as seed 
**pearls seen in antique jewelery. So now I have to decide what 
**to do with them:) What ever I do, it will be as authentic as 
**I can make it:).
**
**michaela
**
**
**_______________________________________________
**h-costume mailing list
**h-costume@mail.indra.com 
**http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
**

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: Frazzeled Frau Web mistress?
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 20:30:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Michaela wrote:
> Anyway, I'm just gloating over my find of real seed perls, 11" strand for
> less than $US1 :D lovely lovely ones. And they aren't cultured, they are
> irregularly shaped, but nothing like those rice crispie ones. They look just
> the same as seed pearls seen in antique jewelery. So now I have to decide
> what to do with them:) What ever I do, it will be as authentic as I can make
> it:).

Okay, give.  Where'd you find them?  I can find 1.5-2mm almost-round
pearls, but at about 10 times the price.  I'm always on the lookout for
new bead sources.  At that price, you got your pearls cheaper than I 
pay for japanese seed beads.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Apr 21 00:27:20 2002
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:22:55 +1200
Status: RO

> Okay, give.  Where'd you find them?  I can find 1.5-2mm almost-round
> pearls, but at about 10 times the price.  I'm always on the lookout for
> new bead sources.  At that price, you got your pearls cheaper than I
> pay for japanese seed beads.

Unfortunately it was a one off. I found them in a 2nd hand store. This store
really doesn't know what it's doing at times.. so some things are
ridiculously overpriced, but just occasionally the reverse is true.

They scream Indian, so I think they must have been with a lot of sarees etc
(they do have the occasional stunner, and I have as many of them as I
can;) ) and they just didn't realise they were the real thing.

I did scan them as they were, as I've just strung them all on some filament
til I can figure out what to do with them. I'm thinking I can also do
something with the metal base too. They look some what like the tops of salt
shakers. I'll either rebead them with glass beads, or use them as some other
decoration as is. Oooh, I could make beaded flowers with them...

Sorry... but maybe you could sourse some indian ones? I don't know if they'd
be cheaper though...

michaela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic doll on the Frazzled Frau site!!  SOoOoOoO Cooool!
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:29:16 +1200
Status: RO

She is really rather special isn't she:). I wish I could recall what book I
found her in. It might well have been a book in another city I lived in for
a time.

> http://www.khm.at/system2E.html?/staticE/page1808.html
>   I just have to get my period doll up.  I have three finished objects
> that I need to get on my site.  Accck, my site looks so horrible right
> now, but no time to fix!!

Heheh, I know how you feel;). I've just been inspired to redo my
recital.tripod.com site. I want to get rid of the black background, but keep
the pale text (easier on the eyes than black text on white background.)

Oh, I have some patterns for wood turned 18th C dolls. I have been so
tempted to make them.. but I can't get my hands on a lathe.. and I will not
be able to hand carve them with my hands the way they are.

I have a stack of Doll Reader and other doll magazines that I still look at.
And of course The Paris Collection, patterns for 19thC parisiennes.... sigh.
Too many hobbies and I don't spend enough time on any of them to get really
good at them.

michaela

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 00:43:07 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


Some of you may remember that I did a Gothic Fitted Dress workshop last
summer in Boise, Idaho. (In fact, some of you were there.) There are now
some photos from the workshop on the web page of the SCA group that
sponsored it.

There seems to be some problem with some of the photos (both in quality
and placement), but apparently this is only evident on some people's
systems, including mine :-(  I know nothing about web page building, but
if any of you see the problems, please drop me a note and tell me what
browser you're using, and perhaps we'll find a pattern. Better yet, if
you've seen these particular problems and know what to do about them,
please email me offlist and I'll pass your advice to the people in charge.

You can find the pages at:

www.barony-of-arnhold.org/COMSTUMING.htm

Follow the link to the Gothic Fitted Dress Seminar.

--Robin

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the frau is back, re: swiss costume
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 18:56:19 -0700
Status: RO


> > Holbein did a book, called 'The Dance of Death' in it's Dover reprint
>(ISBN > 0-486-22804-5), where all the woodcuts were done between 1523-26
>when he
> > lived in Basel, Switzerland.  There are costumes for men, women, the rich,
> > the poor, the elderly, the young, church men and women, and the military
>in
> > it.  And lots of nice skeletons too.
>
>lol! Skeletons.. heheh, thanks I'll have to order the book:). I love how
>Dover repints all these books.. and so much more cheaply than most other
>companies:)

I think their business is reprinting things which are way out of print.  I 
hear that collectors don't like this, but those of us who just want reading 
copies love it.  This particular Dover reprint is thin, and comparatively 
cheap.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic doll on the Frazzled Frau site!! SOoOoOoO Cooool!
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 01:55:46 -0700
Status: RO


>Oh, I have some patterns for wood turned 18th C dolls. I have been so
>tempted to make them.. but I can't get my hands on a lathe.. and I will not
>be able to hand carve them with my hands the way they are.

You may not be able to do it even with a lathe, but Dremmel makes (or used 
to make)a good one.


Kayta
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 11:02:58 +0100
Status: RO

On 20 Apr 2002 at 20:32, Leif Drews wrote:

> Bye the way i go to London next month, and i wondered if there was more to go to
> than the exhibit with royal wedding dresses trough 100 years at Kensington Palace?

I take it you know about the Victoria & Albert 
museum?
http://www.vam.ac.uk/

And of course the British Museum is always fun
http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/


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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 06:13:46 -0400
Status: RO

Robin, thank you for the link to the pics. For some reason, I thought you
needed a full-length mock up for this dress--good to know I don't! (Now, to
find someone to help me do the fitting..)

The burgundy silk dress is absolutely gorgeous! The photos came up fine for
me. (I'm using the latest version of IE, on a Windows XP system.)

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 1:43 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop


>
> Some of you may remember that I did a Gothic Fitted Dress workshop last
> summer in Boise, Idaho. (In fact, some of you were there.) There are now
> some photos from the workshop on the web page of the SCA group that
> sponsored it.


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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:26:35 -0500
Status: RO

Sarah, wonderful sources, thank you.  (wish I had more free time to 
cruise the net, isn't it a marvelous invention.  Have now bookmarked all 
of the sites for future reference!)

A pair of suspenders is actually what started me on this train of 
thought.  They come straight up the front, and cross over each other in 
the back.

Ok, on to the portraits you presented.  (I really should be working but 
this is more fun)
Oh and may I say at this point that I in no way am implying that the 
tapes could not be something else. These are simply my observations and 
why I believe what I do.  IMHO  of course.... And in no way imply others 
are wrong in their views....And since I only have access to 
reproductions on the computer, there are tons of information missed in 
these views.   That said... onward

 >Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:30:37 -0700
 >From: Sarah Goodman <lithiate@earthlink.net>

 >Hi Linda,

 >That theory has been brought up before and I must say that I thought 
this was the case as well, until I >looked good and hard at the Holbein 
sketch and decided that the straps around the shoulders and the >strap 
holding up the front of the skirt aren't the same 
 >thing.  Numerous other people have reached this conclusion also.

The upper and lower views of the tapes are not the same tape in the 
Holbein I refer too?  The presentation in the picture is at differing 
angles and could be the same tape, the artist is very strong on 
perspective.  (Not saying it is true or not, just working my side of the 
debate)  :D  Another thought is perhaps there are more than one style of 
tapes.  One style to hold the back up (pin to the front, over the 
shoulder and down to the back of the skirt) .  One style to hold the 
front up.  (comes from front of skirt, wraps around back and to the 
other side of front of skirt.)  And perhaps one style that does both at 
the same time.

 http://www.abcgallery.com/H/holbein/holbein21.html
I would have to say that this portrait does not present enough 
information to say one way or the other on their use.  It may be that 
when the tapes are not in use, it was simply a matter of leaving them on 
to avoid the time of reapplying them as the day progressed.  I just 
cannot imagine what their decorative purpose would be.  

http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1530_2.shtml

This shows the straps seemingly wrapping around to the back.  Which 
could support my theory.  Or none of it at all.  :)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/boleyn1525.jpg

Not enough picture to say much, other than they do seem to curve towards 
the sides of the bodice tightly, which can imply tension of some sort. 
 (Perhaps those pins in the other portrait?  Or skirts attached in the 
back?)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/dauncey.jpg

The angle of the tape could easily support what I believe.  The tape 
obviously curves downward and could be going towards the back under the 
arm.  The upper portion of the tape is coming from the back shoulder 
area from the direction that implies it is coming from the center line 
of the torso.  (Since we can not see the back, this could simply imply 
that it drapes across the back neck and over the other shoulder also.) 
 But it could fit within my theory.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cecilia.jpg
 >(this is interesting because the straps 
appear to terminate a little above waist level)

This could also simply be the tape might be tucked towards the back, or 
pulled to the back to get it out of the way when not in use (folded back 
at that point?).  Or they could be one of the styles I theorized of at 
the beginnning. (theorized, sounds so much better than "made up".  :D 
 since this isn't a science, maybe I should say I "speculated" )

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/henegham.jpg

Would seem that the tapes serve no obvious purpose, but perhaps she was 
taking a moment to sit for the artist on her way to do other duties, so 
her skirts are actually taped up in the front at the moment and that is 
why the tape seems to go straight down (out of the line of view).

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb5.jpg
 >(there are what appear to be two pins in this sketch that are holding 
the straps to the bodice.  One at >the neckline leve and one at the 
end of the strap)

Perhaps these are a variation on the straps that hold up both back and 
front.   This one is a mystery to me.  
Although I do not believe there is a pin on the shoulder at the 
neckline.  It looks more like a charcoal smudge or something.  It does 
not have the same dimension as the pin on the lower portion.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/moregirls.jpg
Throwing this portrait completely out of the debate.  It is not a 
portrait from the time period we are discussing.  The original sketch 
yes, but not this picture.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/roper.jpg
I love the detail on that blackwork.... wow... Can not say one way or 
the other on what these straps do, simply not enough information.   
However they are there, and seem to go down and under the arm with some 
tension on them?  (Tension meaning that they are firmly against the body 
in some manner)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/margaret.jpg
 >(wide straps)
When I saw this picture years ago (before I knew or even cared about the 
tapes)  I thought this was a kercheif that was folded back.  And if you 
look at the angle of the drape it is not going towards the sides, but 
towards the front.  Not sure these are even the tapes we have been 
discussing?
But if they were tapes, then they could be holding up the front skirt 
which would explain the angle ( see henegham above)

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
 >(the Holbein you mentioned)

Refer to my original post.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/backsketch.jpg
 >(the other Holbein sketch that gets refered to quite a bit.  I'm 
inclined to believe that the thick bands at >the back that 
form a "V" are probably the shoulder straps viewed from behind)

I feel that the "V" we are seeing in the back is not the tapes, but 
simply a continuation of the band that edges the opening of the 
neckline.  And with the exception of that one faint line in the front, I 
can't see any tapes in evidence.  Look closely at the corner of the 
neckline in the front, where it turns up towards the shoulder.  The 
horizontal line of the front seems to be in front of the vertical line 
going up.  And to the right of that the chain obscures the view too much 
to say if that is a tape coming up, or simply an errant line in the sketch.

 >Now, as far as I've ever been able to tell, English women are the only 
ones who are depicted wearing >these straps.  I'd love to hear if anyone 
else has a lead on women from other countries sporting the >straps.  
Also, they are around for a very short space of time, from the 1520's 
the early 1540's if the >portraits are to be believed as dated accuritely.

The dating of the straps.   Didn't the style of gown begin to change 
around the 1540's?  From some of the protraiture (the few I have seen in 
the few books I have) that show the full length views, I believe the 
gowns stopped having folds of fabric dragging the ground as much.  At 
least they do not seem to be dragging as extravagantly as Holbien 
sketches of full views show.  So if this is the case (have not even 
looked into when the lengths began to change), then perhaps the tapes 
dissapeared simply because they were no longer needed?  The portrait of 
Catherine Parr comes to mind? Her gown stops at the floor. 
http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1545_3.shtml

 >I've heard the argument that these might be devotional based upon the 
number of catholic ladies wearing >them, which is an interesting 
theory.  I'm not sure I agree with it, though. 

 From my experience in the Catholic church, once they start a tradition, 
it never gets dropped.  (The reason the host was served straight to the 
tongue for centuries, was way way way back, people would horde it and 
keep it as a holy object instead of eating it, which defeated the 
purpose of the ceremony.  This did not get changed until the last 
century when hygiene became an issue.)

 >My own theory that is beginning to form is that they are there to keep 
 >the shoulders of the bodice on the body... But that's certainly up for debate.  Any thoughts?
 >Sarah

In what manner would the straps be attached to the shoulders/sleeves?  


***Combining another response to this since it is the same thread***

Hello AlbertCat@aol.com,

I believe the woman is actually holding up her kirtle, not the gown. 
(She seems to have 3 skirted items on). If you look to the angle of the 
fabric, and the way it drapes at the back then follow the line up,  you 
can see through the gap at the arm that her skirts are above the waist 
by more than a few inches and it is fairly full at that.  She may be 
supporting the gown at the sides, but for her skirts to be that high in 
the back it is unlikely that just holding them low at the sides, as it 
appears, would raise the back that high. I have seen many women with 
heavy to medium weight gowns on at fair, and none of them are able to 
get the backs up that high when there is that much fabric to deal with, 
without having them held up high at the sides.  And the positioning of 
her one hand that we can see, does not support this.

Did they commonly wear bumrolls during the 20's to 40's? Maybe that is 
where the height comes from?
Curiious to see how many English portraits from this time show NO tapes? 
Does anyone know?

And where the tapes actually start on the sides I believe is too 
shadowed to say whether they come from the back or originate at that spot?

Thank you for all of your input.  And I really enjoyed it!
 >
 > From: AlbertCat@aol.com
 > In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
 >>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (the Holbein you mentioned)
 >>
 >
 > Looking at this the arrangement to me seems to be thus:
 > The straps start on either side front, it looks like at the slightly 
above
 > waist level you mentioned earlier...held by those pins perhaps? They 
travel
 > over the shoulders, cross in back and come to the front to hold up 
the FRONT
 > of the gown. The sash is placed over the pulled up front but not it 
seems
 > over the straps as they come from the back around the sides.
 >  The back drape is entirely due to the woman holding up the sides of her
 > skirts. If she dropped the fabric, the back of the skirts would fall 
smoothly
 > to the ground. The mysterious straps hold nothing up in back.
 >
 > --part1_1a0.df5e22.29ef7749_boundary
 > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 >
 > <HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  
SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/17/2002 3:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lithiate@earthlink.net writes:
 > <BR>
 > <BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" 
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
 > <BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; 
MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 
5px">http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (the Holbein you 
mentioned)
 > <BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" 
FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
 > <BR>
 > <BR>Looking at this the arrangement to me seems to be thus:
 > <BR>The straps start on either side front, it looks like at the 
slightly above waist level you mentioned earlier...held by those pins 
perhaps? They travel over the shoulders, cross in back and come to the 
front to hold up the FRONT of the gown. The sash is placed over the 
pulled up front but not it seems over the straps as they come from the 
back around the sides.
 > <BR> The back drape is entirely due to the woman holding up the sides 
of her skirts. If she dropped the fabric, the back of the skirts would 
fall smoothly to the ground. The mysterious straps hold nothing up in 
back.</FONT></HTML>
 >
 > --part1_1a0.df5e22.29ef7749_boundary--
 >





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Just a reminder of the classes starting in May at the Costume Classroom,
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*** Making a Late 18th Century Wardrobe: Ladies Strapless Stays
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Hi. It is possible that these are decorative finishes to the place where the wire in the
headdress ends, and is either bent back on itself or ended with a blob of lead. There are a
few existing wire assemblies from this period in, I believe, the Museum of London. I can't
remember which catalog I saw them in right now, but I'll post the info when I find it.  Mike
T.



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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 14:08:13 -0400
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Thanks for the input! I'm still torn- the laughing Moon one seems to 
have more options, but the S&S Tea Dress is so tempting to do with 
colored silk chiffon, now that I'm getting started dyeing...

-Amanda
still undecided, but glad to know either option would be a good one!
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 21:50:26 +0200
Status: RO

Dear list
I have read your disgussion with the straps of Tudor era. Very
interresting. I have never noticed those straps before. It is strange
that noone (costume historians) has made any theorys about it.
I have another question wich i have always wondered, and noone has ever
written anything about it, this is 18th century stuff, and i think there
are some, on the list who knows a little about these things.
Why is it that the english panier is very stiffly shaped and did not
follow the french fashion, wich made the hoops larger at each row. All
other countries in the continent had the french shape, only the brittish
had this sharp hoop?
Was it because the english hated the french? (they were enemys all the
time)
I have always wondered why, and please forgive me my terrible
spelling......

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Apr 21 16:55:00 2002
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 21:54:02 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
I have wondered, if you would go for this topic!
If you have your favourite costume  portrait online somewhere, please
give your adress and your admiration for this. Why do you choose this,
could you give some information of it and how would you make it today???

Any??? :-)

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th c. panier shape
From: Sarah Goodman <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:18:31 -0700
Status: RO

on 4/21/02 12:50 PM, Leif Drews at drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:

> Dear list
> I have read your disgussion with the straps of Tudor era. Very
> interresting. I have never noticed those straps before. It is strange
> that noone (costume historians) has made any theorys about it.
> I have another question wich i have always wondered, and noone has ever
> written anything about it, this is 18th century stuff, and i think there
> are some, on the list who knows a little about these things.
> Why is it that the english panier is very stiffly shaped and did not
> follow the french fashion, wich made the hoops larger at each row. All
> other countries in the continent had the french shape, only the brittish
> had this sharp hoop?
> Was it because the english hated the french? (they were enemys all the
> time)
> I have always wondered why, and please forgive me my terrible
> spelling......
> 
> Bjarne


Great question Bjarne!

Unfortunately, my academic understanding of 18th century clothing is pretty
slim, but I have a theory...  This is something that seemed to be
characteristic of English fashion from the beginning.  Much of what was
popular in England up until the onset of globalization (I'm really thinking
early 1800's here) seemed to deviate from the "norm" of the fashion on the
continent.  It's certainly true of 16th century English clothes, as the
discussion of the white straps illustrates.  I think it has something to do
with it's geographical isolation from the hub of European fashion.  There is
definately something about being an island nation that makes it feel more
cut off from the rest of the "civilized" world and I think it's fashion
sense really reflects that.  I know that during the 16th century, the
fashions in England were considered either outdated or just plain bizarre to
the eyes of visiting foriegners.  This could explain why the Enlish panier
in the 18th century was less sofisticated in appearance than the French
panier.  Any thoughts?

Sarah

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
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 Greg Stucki at Apr 21, 2002 06:13:46 am"
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 14:08:54 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

there are problems with the photos because the table is poorly formatted, 
which is pretty typical of pages created with MS Front Page.  On my system -
IE on a Mac -- it displays ok, but the text wraps over the photos, making it
unreadable.  

.heather.

> Robin, thank you for the link to the pics. For some reason, I thought you
> needed a full-length mock up for this dress--good to know I don't! (Now, to
> find someone to help me do the fitting..)
> 
> The burgundy silk dress is absolutely gorgeous! The photos came up fine for
> me. (I'm using the latest version of IE, on a Windows XP system.)
> 
> Dianne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 1:43 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
> 
> 
> >
> > Some of you may remember that I did a Gothic Fitted Dress workshop last
> > summer in Boise, Idaho. (In fact, some of you were there.) There are now
> > some photos from the workshop on the web page of the SCA group that
> > sponsored it.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hamburg Museum catalog
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:04:44 -0400
Status: RO

Cynthia,
I'm currently looking into German costume from the mid-18th century.  Would
this catalog indicate at all how commoners' clothing in mid-18th c. Hamburg
would have been different from what the English and French were wearing at
the same time?

Regards,
Mara

At 10:20 AM 4/20/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Bjarne (and others who were interested),
>I've finally opened the moving boxes & found the Hamburg catalog I was
talking
>about... oh, maybe 6 months ago.  The catalog is "Voila: Glanzstuchke
>historisher Moden 1750-1960".  It's billed as "ein Mode-Streifzug durch das
>Musem fur Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg".  
>
>Hope that gets you enough info to hunt down a new costume collection on your
>next trip to Hamburg.  Bon voyage!
>
>--cin
>(formerly Cynthia in Tokyo)

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:12:26 -0400
Status: RO

Robin, 
Thanks-- wonderful pics!

-- Mara

At 12:43 AM 4/21/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>You can find the pages at:
>
>www.barony-of-arnhold.org/COMSTUMING.htm
>
>Follow the link to the Gothic Fitted Dress Seminar.
>
>--Robin

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:11:46 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 4/21/2002 4:19:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lithiate@earthlink.net writes:


> This could explain why the Enlish panier
> in the 18th century was less sofisticated in appearance than the French
> panier.  Any thoughts?
> 

I think the nail you've hit on the head is regionalism. And it is much more 
pronounced than today but even then has roots in the distant past...which 
manifest themselves in the choices made by isolated fashions. I mean, the 
Iberian peninsula isn't an island and it is usually farther left of field 
than England....or anybody else in Europe. That early Moorish influence is 
the start of Spain's diverse path. The French were in charge of England at 
one time so I think an Englishman might show his disdain for things French 
subtlety: by choosing less fussy, plainer styles, concentrating on fine 
tailoring and fit and fabrics rather than ornament or complicated shapes. 
This is indeed what I find.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 4/21/2002 4:19:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lithiate@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">This could explain why the Enlish panier
<BR>in the 18th century was less sofisticated in appearance than the French
<BR>panier. &nbsp;Any thoughts?
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I think the nail you've hit on the head is regionalism. And it is much more pronounced than today but even then has roots in the distant past...which manifest themselves in the choices made by isolated fashions. I mean, the Iberian peninsula isn't an island and it is usually farther left of field than England....or anybody else in Europe. That early Moorish influence is the start of Spain's diverse path. The French were in charge of England at one time so I think an Englishman might show his disdain for things French subtlety: by choosing less fussy, plainer styles, concentrating on fine tailoring and fit and fabrics rather than ornament or complicated shapes. This is indeed what I find.</FONT></HTML>

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th c. panier shape
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:22:10 -0400
Status: RO

Bjarne,
Are you talking about the squarish court panniers?  My impression has
always been that that was just one style, popular in the middle of the 18th
century, and that other, rounder hoops were also worn.  Yes, I agree, the
squarish panniers are VERY ugly. 

Of course, I've mostly been focusing on middle-class and lower-class
costume, and have avoided anything remotely resembling court hoops, so I
don't know too much about them.  <grin>

Cheers,
Mara

At 09:50 PM 4/21/2002 +0200, you wrote:
>Dear list
>I have read your disgussion with the straps of Tudor era. Very
>interresting. I have never noticed those straps before. It is strange
>that noone (costume historians) has made any theorys about it.
>I have another question wich i have always wondered, and noone has ever
>written anything about it, this is 18th century stuff, and i think there
>are some, on the list who knows a little about these things.
>Why is it that the english panier is very stiffly shaped and did not
>follow the french fashion, wich made the hoops larger at each row. All
>other countries in the continent had the french shape, only the brittish
>had this sharp hoop?
>Was it because the english hated the french? (they were enemys all the
>time)
>I have always wondered why, and please forgive me my terrible
>spelling......
>
>Bjarne

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:16:02 -0700
Status: RO

This is one is next on my list after I complete the one I am almost done
with.  I like it for it's complexity.  I have the fabric already.  The
underskirt  is Indian silk.   Teal/Aqua with metallic 'squares' with
medallions in rust, orange and wheat.  I have a wool/silk blend for the
outer layer and I have lots of metallic 'lace' for trim.   How will I
make it?   I am not sure what Bjarne means by this, but here is a stab.
I will draft the pattern myself, and do some research to see if I can
'uncover' some information about the underpinnings.   There must be
something underneath all that to make her breasts stand up the way they
do. Or on the other hand  maybe the high waist line and the 'freedom' of
the "V"  is enough to do that, and I can't see why they would have
bothered with a full corset, but I'll just have to fiddle with it.
Great question Bjarne, this will generate lots of good stuff!!   Thanks
for the opportunity!

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/16thital/durer-vene1495-1.jpg


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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:32:08 -0700
Status: RO

 The photos came up 
**> fine for me. (I'm using the latest version of IE, on a Windows XP 
**> system.)

Same here-no problems at all.  Looks very nice.  My favorite shot is
from the back.  While it doesn't show the nice work you have done as
much as the other shots, it just looks so graceful. The length is
perfect and it 'moves' so nicely.  (I am so jealous too of your hair!!).
Too bad you weren't moving down the hall of a castle when that shot were
taken.  If it weren't for the background, who'd know that you didn't
just step off a time machine!!

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 00:23:49 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Sun, 21 Apr 2002, Saragrace knauf wrote:

> Same here-no problems at all.  Looks very nice.  My favorite shot is
> from the back.  While it doesn't show the nice work you have done as
> much as the other shots, it just looks so graceful. The length is
> perfect and it 'moves' so nicely.  (I am so jealous too of your
> hair!!). Too bad you weren't moving down the hall of a castle when
> that shot were taken.  If it weren't for the background, who'd know
> that you didn't just step off a time machine!!

:-) Thanks! I love how these dresses look from the back. The style is
really flattering, even on a large woman, as long as she has any dip at
the small of the back. People usually assume that men enjoy seeing women
in this style because of the cleavage, but I've watched guys watching
women in this dress, and their eyes go to the curve between the waist and
hips, particularly at the back. My husband, who has seen me fit plenty of
these, confirms this. ;-)  I find this amusing in part because we spend so
much time during the fittings working on corralling the bust, and nearly
all the questions I get about the style have to do with the bust position
and support. No one really thinks about what's happening at the small of
the back.

My hair, alas, is very unperiod in this photo -- any respectable woman
would have had it neatly confined and at least partially covered. I
believe I started my lecture that day by apologizing for being
half-undressed.

There's another back view of this dress (this time with a more proper
headdress) in Penny's Online Costume Ball from 2001. I have it linked from
my not-quite-a-webpage, <http://www.netherton.net/robin>.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic doll on the Frazzled Frau site!! SOoOoOoO Cooool!
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:10:47 +1200
Status: RO

> >Oh, I have some patterns for wood turned 18th C dolls. I have been so
> >tempted to make them.. but I can't get my hands on a lathe.. and I will
not
> >be able to hand carve them with my hands the way they are.
>
> You may not be able to do it even with a lathe, but Dremmel makes (or used
> to make)a good one.

Well, they're designed to be turned, much like a post for a bed etc. You
then shape the hands feet and lower torso by hand. I'd have to pull them out
again to see exactly how they are jointed.

But then I'd rather just borrow someone's for a while. I think purchasing a
machine just for a few dolls might be a bit extravagent.

michaela

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic doll on the Frazzled Frau site!!
	SOoOoOoO Cooool!
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:05:20 +0100
Status: RO

I noticed that the coloured pic. of the doll shows her playing her cittern lefthanded; I re-checked the black & white version and found that it doesn't! I guess it must be the coloured one that has been reversed.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic doll on the Frazzled Frau site!! SOoOoOoO Cooool!
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 04:50:32 -0700
Status: RO


> > >Oh, I have some patterns for wood turned 18th C dolls. I have been so
> > >tempted to make them.. but I can't get my hands on a lathe.. and I will
>not
> > >be able to hand carve them with my hands the way they are.
> >
> > You may not be able to do it even with a lathe, but Dremmel makes (or used
> > to make)a good one.
>
>Well, they're designed to be turned, much like a post for a bed etc. You
>then shape the hands feet and lower torso by hand. I'd have to pull them out
>again to see exactly how they are jointed.
>
>But then I'd rather just borrow someone's for a while. I think purchasing a
>machine just for a few dolls might be a bit extravagent.

I was given my Dremmel lathe as an Xmas present.  (It was all I got that 
year, because everyone clubbed together to get that one thing.)  Than later 
I bought a Dremmel scroll saw AND a Craftsman 10" bandsaw for $30 at a yard 
sale, after being shown that both worked.  It was my intention to make 
turned bone crochet hooks with the lathe, and to make fancy fan sticks with 
the scroll saw.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 05:02:04 -0700
Status: RO


>There's another back view of this dress (this time with a more proper
>headdress) in Penny's Online Costume Ball from 2001. I have it linked from
>my not-quite-a-webpage, <http://www.netherton.net/robin>.

Somebody tell me again when the Online Costume Ball is?


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Gothic fitted dress
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:21:36 -0400
Status: RO


Thanks so much for posting that site! It was fun to look at a whole room
full of women trying out this style, even though the end result was pinned
shells and not real gowns. I'd love to see what they make!

I love how this style makes women of any shape look good. I think this
selection of pictures particularly shows how modern clothes -- jeans and
t-shirts -- give everyone a squarish look that is not particularly
attractive. The Gothic fitted dress gives everyone a waist, a defined bust,
and hips. This is not to say that it looks bad on women with small busts; it
looks great on them too. And the skirt flaring from the hips looks just
lovely.

BTW, I agree that the most flattering thing about this dress IS the small of
the back (& what's below it, of course!). My husband confirms this. Many
styles of jeans also have a tight waist and flare to cover the hips and
derriere -- but it's definitely not the same thing!

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 22 10:33:51 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian medieval
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:25:24 -0400
Status: RO


A week or so ago someone inquired about what "Victorian medieval" meant. For
a fairly contemporary example, rent the Danny Kaye film "The Court Jester."
We rented it last night and the dresses of the two main female characters
are very much Victorian medieval -- they have built-in corsets that cover
the hips, very full skirts that flare out from the corset, and belts that
hang in the front in a V-shape; pretty much identical to many Victorian
etchings of "medieval" dresses that I have seen, except that the bust line
is modern. They are also completely off the shoulder! All in all, very
pretty bits of fantasy costume. The costume and set designers on this film
obviously knew their stuff and had fun "contemporizing" it. Plus it's a fun
movie.

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop/onlineball
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:57:41 -0500
Status: RO

I believe Penny starts taking photo submissions in  late Aug. right up until
the first week in Oct. She tries to have the ball  web site ready before
Halloween.

Susan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 7:02 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop


>
> >There's another back view of this dress (this time with a more proper
> >headdress) in Penny's Online Costume Ball from 2001. I have it linked
from
> >my not-quite-a-webpage, <http://www.netherton.net/robin>.
>
> Somebody tell me again when the Online Costume Ball is?
>
>
> Kayta
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] visiting London
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 07:34:09 -0700
Status: RO

I didn't see the original post, so please excuse me if someone has already
mentioned this -- the Museum of London also has a dress collection (not sure
what's regularly on view).  If you're up to a day trip, you should head out
to Bath to see the Museum of Dress!

- Kendra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 3:02 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] visiting London


> On 20 Apr 2002 at 20:32, Leif Drews wrote:
>
> > Bye the way i go to London next month, and i wondered if there was more
to go to
> > than the exhibit with royal wedding dresses trough 100 years at
Kensington Palace?
>
> I take it you know about the Victoria & Albert
> museum?
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/
>
> And of course the British Museum is always fun
> http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/
>
>
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: Fw: [h-cost] Dating
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 07:35:30 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks for all of the thoughts on the turn of the century dress!  Anyone
have any thoughts on any of the others?

- Kendra

>
> 1836ish?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1830-1850/551.jpg
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1830-1850/552.jpg
>
> Early 1850s?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/792.jpg
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/795.jpg
>
> 1850s?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/809.jpg
>
> Later 1860s?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/909.jpg
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/912.jpg
>
> Later 1860s?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/978.jpg
>
> Later 1860s?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/933.jpg
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/935.jpg
>
> 1870-73ish?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1002.jpg
>
> 1876-78ish?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1082.jpg
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1083.jpg
>
> 1893-94ish?
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1461.jpg
> http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1465.jpg



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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:09:58 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne,


When you go the V&A, be sure to go up to their textile collections. They
have cases and cases of period lace and needlework including a fine
linen, lace-edged handkerchief that belonged to Queen Elizabeth. You will
absolutely love it!!! It's the sort of place that one could spend hours
and hours in. The Costume section was undergoing an extensive revision
when I was there in February, but the textile cases were still quite
available. 


Karen

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Subject: [h-cost] Favorite Costume Portrait and Your next project-Was:round of admiration
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:06:55 -0700
Status: RO

Bjarne, I reposted this because I think it is such a fun topic, and I
think people are not picking up on the intention of the subject line.  I
really want to hear what everyone  else's favorites are.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace knauf
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 8:16 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] round of admiration


This is one is next on my list after I complete the one I am almost done
with.  I like it for it's complexity.  I have the fabric already.  The
underskirt  is Indian silk.   Teal/Aqua with metallic 'squares' with
medallions in rust, orange and wheat.  I have a wool/silk blend for the
outer layer and I have lots of metallic 'lace' for trim.   How will I
make it?   I am not sure what Bjarne means by this, but here is a stab.
I will draft the pattern myself, and do some research to see if I can
'uncover' some information about the underpinnings.   There must be
something underneath all that to make her breasts stand up the way they
do. Or on the other hand  maybe the high waist line and the 'freedom' of
the "V"  is enough to do that, and I can't see why they would have
bothered with a full corset, but I'll just have to fiddle with it.
Great question Bjarne, this will generate lots of good stuff!!   Thanks
for the opportunity!

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/16thital/durer-vene1495-1.jpg


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 12:54 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] round of admiration


Hello.
I have wondered, if you would go for this topic!
If you have your favourite costume  portrait online somewhere, please
give your adress and your admiration for this. Why do you choose this,
could you give some information of it and how would you make it today???

Any??? :-)

Bjarne
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Subject: Re: Fw: [h-cost] Dating
In-Reply-To: <006101c1ea0a$f3e3ce10$9da98218@duck> "from Kendra Van Cleave at
 Apr 22, 2002 07:35:30 am"
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:25:24 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

kendra -- where's the entry way into these photos?  I poked around
a bit, but I couldn't seem to find them.  


.heather.


> Thanks for all of the thoughts on the turn of the century dress!  Anyone
> have any thoughts on any of the others?
> 
> - Kendra
> 
> >
> > 1836ish?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1830-1850/551.jpg
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1830-1850/552.jpg
> >
> > Early 1850s?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/792.jpg
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/795.jpg
> >
> > 1850s?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1846-1865/809.jpg
> >
> > Later 1860s?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/909.jpg
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/912.jpg
> >
> > Later 1860s?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/978.jpg
> >
> > Later 1860s?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/933.jpg
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1860-1869/935.jpg
> >
> > 1870-73ish?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1002.jpg
> >
> > 1876-78ish?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1082.jpg
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1870-1880/1083.jpg
> >
> > 1893-94ish?
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1461.jpg
> > http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/chrono/1890-1900/1465.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:34:10 -0700
Status: RO


> Hi. It is possible that these are decorative finishes to the place
> where the wire in the headdress ends, and is either bent back on
> itself or ended with a blob of lead. There are a few existing wire
> assemblies from this period in, I believe, the Museum of London. I
> can't remember which catalog I saw them in right now, but I'll post
> the info when I find it.  Mike T.

They are indeed at the Museum of London. They generally have 1-2 
of them on view (unless they are in the backroom with someone 
like me who is studying them.)

They also have others, but not so complete, as well as some 
different styles (like the one worn by "granny" at the Wolstenholm 
Massacre site near Williamsburg.)

At the time I had my appointment in 1999, they had 11 headdress 
wires. I'm hoping that they will have new ones found if I ever get to 
go back.


Kat
kat@grendal.rain.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
From: Gary Walker <gerekr@ravensgard.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:29:36 -0700
Status: RO

on 4/20/02 10:43 PM, Robin Netherton at robin@shell.nightowl.net wrote:

> 
> Some of you may remember that I did a Gothic Fitted Dress workshop last
> summer in Boise, Idaho. (In fact, some of you were there.) There are now
> some photos from the workshop on the web page of the SCA group that
> sponsored it.
> 
> There seems to be some problem with some of the photos (both in quality
> and placement), but apparently this is only evident on some people's
> systems, including mine :-(  I know nothing about web page building, but
> if any of you see the problems, please drop me a note and tell me what
> browser you're using, and perhaps we'll find a pattern. Better yet, if
> you've seen these particular problems and know what to do about them,
> please email me offlist and I'll pass your advice to the people in charge.
> 
> You can find the pages at:
> 
> www.barony-of-arnhold.org/COMSTUMING.htm
> 
> Follow the link to the Gothic Fitted Dress Seminar.
> 
> --Robin
what a funny typo in the url -- has anyone told them?

in any case, Robin, we have a G4 (Apple) and the captions are almost all
BEHIND the pictures (!) where I mostly can't see them except for bits while
the pics are loading.  (in OX 9.2; haven't tried from OSX, I think)

my husband says it looks like something you get in a lot of the programs
Microsoft makes to build pages for people who don't want to learn to do
straight HTML, the "fill in the blanks" programs?

yeah, when I "view source", I get some really interesting stuff that doesn't
look at all like plain-vanilla HTML (which I do know what looks like, I've
seen what's under our Ravensgard pages), and the text blocks aren't there!
they must be in some sort of graphic format where Source only gives you a
reference to the image of the text.  rats, I thought maybe I could get
around/to the buried text that way.

the pictures are GREAT

So now I have to REALLY adjust my mental picture of you, 8-)!!!  - red hair
and + glasses...  and so young for so many accomplishments!

Chimene, on sca-cooks too

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 12:36:56 -0500
Status: RO

I love how these dresses look from the back. The style is
really flattering, even on a large woman, as long as she has any dip at
the small of the back. People usually assume that men enjoy seeing women
in this style because of the cleavage, but I've watched guys watching
women in this dress, and their eyes go to the curve between the waist and
hips, particularly at the back. My husband, who has seen me fit plenty of
these, confirms this. ;-)  

--Robin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I caught a show on cable recently that talked about how, despite our American culture's obsession w/ the bust, men are really attracted to women whose hips are .7 larger than the waist.  Had something to do with ideal child-bearing proportions and the subconcious instinct/need to propagate their genes :).  Hmmmm, puts drum farthingales in a whole new light :)!!!!

Catherine


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 22 15:07:41 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:13:31 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 22 Apr 2002, Gary Walker wrote:

> they must be in some sort of graphic format where Source only gives you a
> reference to the image of the text.  rats, I thought maybe I could get
> around/to the buried text that way.

Yes, apparently. I'm not in touch with the webmaster who laid this out,
but my contact is, and she's feeding him all these comments -- thanks to
all who have sent me hints that may enable him to fix this stuff.

I was able to read the captions by turning off my "show graphics" option
in IE.

> the pictures are GREAT
> 
> So now I have to REALLY adjust my mental picture of you, 8-)!!!  - red hair
> and + glasses...  and so young for so many accomplishments!

Dark brown hair, actually! (Hmm, what does that mean about color on the
images?) And I'm older than I look ;-)  The youthful hair distracts people
from seeing from the wrinkles. But no, apparently I don't look at all like
my surname (courtesy my husband) and postings lead people to believe. I
get a lot of doubletakes when people who know me online meet me for the
first time.

--Robin


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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:39:22 -0400
Status: RO

*G*  I finally found out that those period looking gold and silver spangles are easier to get a
hold of than I thought.  Trick is to ask your local needlework store to order them from Kreinik...
don't know if kreinik sells directly or not.

Took a class on the various fibers that Kreinik makes and sells earlier this month, and realized
that I'm going to just have to come up with a good idea of how to lay out the purse I'm going to
start so that I'll have a chance to play with their Japan Silver and the spangles (they call them
something else, starting with a P (wanna say pasteilles or something)... but I'm forgetful).

They are the type formed by taking a nearly circle twist of wire and flattening... and will tarnish
eventually, but...

*G*  Like my garb and needlework addictions weren't bad enough to begin with...

-Elisabeth

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:22:34 -0700
Status: RO

Catherine Kinsey wrote:
> 
> I caught a show on cable recently that talked about how, despite our American culture's obsession w/ the bust, men are really attracted to women whose hips are .7 larger than the waist.  Had something to do with ideal child-bearing proportions and the subconcious instinct/need to propagate their genes :).  Hmmmm, puts drum farthingales in a whole new light :)!!!!
> 
> Catherine
> 

It also explains the hoop skirt, and bustle.  It's interesting to me
that women work so hard these days to keep their hips small, but all
though history women have been trying to make their hips bigger.  The
biggest complaint I hear from the Fort where we do 1846, is that the
dresses make their hips too big.  Personally as a man I like a little
meat on my woman.  Super skinny models just leave me cold.

Stephen
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:24:52 +0200
Status: RO

Hi
Yes they call them palliettes!
When you have had those in your hands, you realise, that plastic is something silly you used to use :-)

Bjarne

Liz / Cozit wrote:

> *G*  I finally found out that those period looking gold and silver spangles are easier to get a
> hold of than I thought.  Trick is to ask your local needlework store to order them from Kreinik...
> don't know if kreinik sells directly or not.
>
> Took a class on the various fibers that Kreinik makes and sells earlier this month, and realized
> that I'm going to just have to come up with a good idea of how to lay out the purse I'm going to
> start so that I'll have a chance to play with their Japan Silver and the spangles (they call them
> something else, starting with a P (wanna say pasteilles or something)... but I'm forgetful).
>
> They are the type formed by taking a nearly circle twist of wire and flattening... and will tarnish
> eventually, but...
>
> *G*  Like my garb and needlework addictions weren't bad enough to begin with...
>
> -Elisabeth
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Costume Portrait and Your next project
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:24:23 -0500
Status: RO

My next costume project is for a local event here. It will be the Eleanora
dress because and only because I found _the_ fabric. No, I will not reveal
the location of said fabric because it is mine all mine, buhahahahhahaha!!

Only once before have I seen the dress done in the exactly same fabric
pattern as her dress, the tailor painted it himself on white silk. It was to
die for! (20 years ago)

I already made the decorative chemise and am working on making other subtle
parts before I actually cut this beautiful once in a life time find of a
fabric.

I recently was laid off and replaced by a contractor so I have plenty of
straight linear time to actually finish it from beginning to end  instead of
my usual start stop, start stop, start stop. :)

I have also lost over 20 pounds now stressing over if I am ever going to
find anything again. So the fit will be beautiful. :)

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 10:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Favorite Costume Portrait and Your next project-Was:round
of admiration


> Bjarne, I reposted this because I think it is such a fun topic, and I
> think people are not picking up on the intention of the subject line.  I
> really want to hear what everyone  else's favorites are.
>

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:10:33 -0700
Status: RO

 >Personally as a man I like a little meat on my woman.  Super skinny
models just leave me cold.
 > Stephen

Well, I know that attitude will make lots of us on this list happy!!
Whenever I whine about my big butt to my husband he just lets me know
that he likes it just the way it is!  Bless your souls!!

Now all we have to figure out is who is out there promoting this
anorexic waif look and WHY? 






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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 19:09:26 -0600
Status: RO

You do *not* have wrinkles.....<g>, at least not that I recall.....
--Sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 

> Dark brown hair, actually! (Hmm, what does that mean about color on the
> images?) And I'm older than I look ;-)  The youthful hair distracts people
> from seeing from the wrinkles. But no, apparently I don't look at all like
> my surname (courtesy my husband) and postings lead people to believe. I
> get a lot of doubletakes when people who know me online meet me for the
> first time.
> 
> --Robin
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:10:15 +1200
Status: RO

And of course don't forget those wonderful old opera photos. I have about a
dozen of women as Marguerite in Faust.. they have a faily standard outfit:
Pale dress, super plain with high neck and slashing at shoulders and elbows.
A girdle with puch hanging off it, generalyy slung to the side, plain hair
or occasionally a decorative fanciful hat.

All the dresses from late 1870s-1880s are practically from the same pattern,
the latter ones from the early 20thC get more fussy.

michaela

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:17:35 +1200
Status: RO

> Bjarne, I reposted this because I think it is such a fun topic, and I
> think people are not picking up on the intention of the subject line.  I
> really want to hear what everyone  else's favorites are.

And because so few people have posted. I'll give it a shot:)
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/1528fav399.htm
I love the fabric and style of this one. Simple, but not severe, it uses the
colour and texture of the fabrics to achieve a very distinctive elegant
style. Yellow shot silk and burgundy/maroon velvet trim.
And of course, with her fairly atypical more spanish/english style shaped
bodice (it is seen in a few other german paintings) the style is probably
going to suit me more. Being not so well endowed, even a corded bodice is
going to flatten me out somewhat;).

michaela

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 19:29:00 -0700
Status: RO

Hi Heather!

The photos are on the Museum's chronology of fashion.  Go to the museum's
start page (http://www.ucad.fr/mmt/) and click on "Chronologie de la Mode de
1700 a nos jours" (it's a frames site, so I can't link you there directly).
Only some of the pages have images on them, and none of the images have
captions or any dating info.  Hence my question!

I've linked them from my Real Victorian Clothing page
(http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/realvict.html), and I wanted to
get more precise dates on them.

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: [h-cost] Dating


> kendra -- where's the entry way into these photos?  I poked around
> a bit, but I couldn't seem to find them.
>
>
> .heather.



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From: "Dianne and Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back view of GFD
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:28:17 -0400
Status: RO

Well, I've gained thirty pounds since I met my DH (three babies and quitting
smoking will do that to ya!), and he doesn't seem any less interested in me
as a size 12 than he did as a size 2. I, on the other hand, rather liked
weighing 102 pounds and would love to get back there, or at least close! I'm
only five feet tall, so no, I was not overly thin, and I always had hips!
But if it never happens, my hubby still thinks I'm sexy, so I can live with
this.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madly@2xtreme.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back view of GFD


> Catherine Kinsey wrote:
> >
> > I caught a show on cable recently that talked about how, despite our
American culture's obsession w/ the bust, men are really attracted to women
whose hips are .7 larger than the waist.  Had something to do with ideal
child-bearing proportions and the subconcious instinct/need to propagate
their genes :).  Hmmmm, puts drum farthingales in a whole new light :)!!!!
> >
> > Catherine
> >
>
> It also explains the hoop skirt, and bustle.  It's interesting to me
> that women work so hard these days to keep their hips small, but all
> though history women have been trying to make their hips bigger.  The
> biggest complaint I hear from the Fort where we do 1846, is that the
> dresses make their hips too big.  Personally as a man I like a little
> meat on my woman.  Super skinny models just leave me cold.
>
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:57:54 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


I wrote:
> 
> > The youthful hair distracts people
> > from seeing from the wrinkles.

Sue replied:
> You do *not* have wrinkles.....<g>, at least not that I recall.....

See, it worked!

--Robin


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From: Leslie Calkum <calkum@usa.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Two questions
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:44:45 -0500
Status: RO

Hi,
The first question I am not really sure if it is on topic or not, but thought
this would be the place to ask. Any way I was at my local college library the
other day and they had on display some clothing from Singapore dated from the
1960's they were made from pineapple fabric. What is pineapple fabric? It
looks almost like a linen to me.

Now for the second question. I was looking through the travel section for my
local paper and they had an article on an exhibit in Memphis, Tn on the
Russian Czars. Has anyone been to see this yet? Is is worth the trip? The
article said they have on exhibit the coronation robe that was made for the
Empress Maria Alexandrovna in 1856 and by the picture in paper looks kind of
interesting. They also have portraits, faberge eggs and lists others on
display.

Thank you in advanced,
Leslie

Now I will return to lurk mode. 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:04:53 -0600
Status: RO


Pineapple fabric is actually woven from fibers of pineapple leaves! My
brother brought me some from the Philippines years ago - I remember it
feeling a bit like very fine nylon.  I found the following:

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mybarong/jusandpintra.html

Piqa (Pineapple)-Weaving in Kalibo, Aklan

Kalibo, the oldest town and capital of Aklan, enjoys the prestige of
being the center of piqa cloth weaving in this province. Weaving in
individual houses or backyards is concentrated, however, in the
barrios of new and old Buswang and Bachao Sur. The Aklan piqa cloth is
woven from the finest mature leaves of native pineapples, the wild
pineapples called the Red Spanish variety. Two imported varieties, the
Smooth Cayenne and Queen, have been reported to yield durable fibers
for cloth weaving. Commercial pineapples do not yield a fiber with
notable tensile strength. These wild pineapple plants are planted from
the cuttings of the wild pineapple fruit and thrive best in open
fields with sandy clay soil. After about a year from planting, three
to five leaves are cut from each plant. These piqa plants are grown in
the barrios of Banga, Altavas, Nabas and Tangalan.

Stripping or extracting the fiber by hand from the plant is done
rather crudely. Recently, the Philippine Textile Research Institute
(PTRI), a government agency tasked with the research and development
of textiles in the country, came up with a process that would extract
the fiber from the leaf in a more convenient and efficient manner,
that is, through a decorticating machine. Of course in those
individual houses in the provinces, piqa fiber extraction is still
done by hand.

The green epidermal layer is scraped off the leaf by means of a
coconut husk or a piece of broken china. The liniwan, being the finest
fiber, is used for weaving the piqa cloth. The second layer, bastos,
is a coarse fiber used in making strings or twine. The finer fiber is
called piqukpok. All these fibers are combed to further clean them
(usually by the river since it is believed that its water makes the
strands whiter) and render them easy for handknotting into continuous
strands. Since the individual stripped fiber is no longer than 30
inches, the fibers have to be knotted. This process is known in the
dialect as pag-panug-ot, an utterly delicate and laborious task. A
piece of bamboo is fashioned into a blade to cut off the end of each
knot.

The next step is warping. This is done on pegs struck in a
board. Another laborious step, it usually takes 15 to 20 days to warp
enough yarns to complete a "sucod" of 18 to 20 "bucos" or 54 to 60
meters of cloth.

Pag-talinyas or spinning is likewise executed with a crude
hand-operated bobbin winder which is turned by the right hand while
the left hand drills the strand into a tiny mold made of reed or
tabun-ak.

These processes over, the weaver is now ready to face the loom, often
as old as the first weaver in the family. The loom has foot-operated
treadle with an extended overhead warp beam with two harnesses and two
treadles. The warp is wound into the warp beam. Then it is treaded
into the boddle (benting) reed or sucod. The benting allows the warp
to open when the treadle is stepped on the feet. The sucod is used to
press the weft to thicken the cloth.

The thickness and width of the cloth is determined by the sucod. There
are the 65, 70 and 80 types of winder. For instance, the 65 sucod
produces a cloth of about 24 inches in width; 70 sucod, 29 inches, and
the 80 sucod, 31 to 32 inches.

Note that the bobbin with the weft is placed into the shuttle. The
bobbin, incidentally, is held in place by a piece of coconut
midrib. As the treadle is pressed by the feet, the warp opens and the
shuttle is then thrown into the opening. Simultaneously the sucod is
pressed into the cloth. Weaving the cloth continues with this
cvcle. From the treadle with the feet, the weaver (usually a female)
throws in the shuttle with the right hand, and then catches it with
the left hand. Next she presses the sucod with the right hand. Then
she presses the other treadle again with the feet, throwing the
shuttle with the left hand and catching it with the right hand, and
then pressing the sucod with the right hand.

Dyeing the fiber to any desired color may be executed at this
point. Normally piqa is beige or dirty white or ecru but dyed piqa
produces blue or black piqa cloth. The result is equally dramatic and
charming.

In the olden days, the weavers decided on their own which design may
be inlaid or embroidered into the thin as hair piqa fiber. Usually
designs take the form of flowers, fruits, coconut trees, nipa huts or
any other designs the weaver's creative imagination concocts. Either
the designs are copied from cloths which have already been designed or
inlaid into the fabric with the aid of a graphing paper. In the case
of the latter, the design is made on the warp.
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:27:21 -0600
Status: RO

I have some friends who are very slender, most are clustered around
average, and some are heavy to very heavy.  What seems to be most
important for all of them, as individuals and in their relationships
with their partners, is that they're happy and satisfied with what they
are, whatever that may be.  What ends up being unhappy and awkward and a
damned shame, at least in my not very humble opinion, is when you wreck
yourself trying to be something you're not.
--Sue, climbing down off her soapbox so she can do dishes and have some
time for lace making <g>

Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:
> 
> Well, I've gained thirty pounds since I met my DH (three babies and quitting
> smoking will do that to ya!), and he doesn't seem any less interested in me
> as a size 12 than he did as a size 2. I, on the other hand, rather liked
> weighing 102 pounds and would love to get back there, or at least close! I'm
> only five feet tall, so no, I was not overly thin, and I always had hips!
> But if it never happens, my hubby still thinks I'm sexy, so I can live with
> this.
> 
> Dianne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madly@2xtreme.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 4:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back view of GFD
> 
> > Catherine Kinsey wrote:
> > >
> > > I caught a show on cable recently that talked about how, despite our
> American culture's obsession w/ the bust, men are really attracted to women
> whose hips are .7 larger than the waist.  Had something to do with ideal
> child-bearing proportions and the subconcious instinct/need to propagate
> their genes :).  Hmmmm, puts drum farthingales in a whole new light :)!!!!
> > >
> > > Catherine
> > >
> >
> > It also explains the hoop skirt, and bustle.  It's interesting to me
> > that women work so hard these days to keep their hips small, but all
> > though history women have been trying to make their hips bigger.  The
> > biggest complaint I hear from the Fort where we do 1846, is that the
> > dresses make their hips too big.  Personally as a man I like a little
> > meat on my woman.  Super skinny models just leave me cold.
> >
> > Stephen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos from GFD workshop
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:29:19 -0600
Status: RO

Oooops....caught <g>.....
--Sue, whose thin, fine hair is *still* jealous of Robin's.....<g>

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> I wrote:
> >
> > > The youthful hair distracts people
> > > from seeing from the wrinkles.
> 
> Sue replied:
> > You do *not* have wrinkles.....<g>, at least not that I recall.....
> 
> See, it worked!
> 
> --Robin
> 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 23 01:04:47 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Costume Portrait and Your next project-Was:round 
 of admiration
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:08:06 -0600
Status: RO

I don't think I have a single favorite portrait, online or not.  Heck, I
can't even narrow it down to a century <gggg>.....My generally-favored
portrait *artists,* though, would be Bronzino and Holbein (the younger),
especially Holbein, because I love the way he makes the people look like
*people,* warts and all.  I also like Sofonisba Anguissola's stuff, and
the wonderful Cranach paintings in which the women have those marvelous
hats with the huge feathers in them....
My current costuming project is making a Caraco jacket for a class I'm
taking through Costume Classroom.  It's a sky-blue linen, with a plain
chintz lining, if I can find some d@rned chintz, or a thin silk lining,
if I can't (I'm trying to keep costs down).  I'm going to do
pulled-thread embroidery on the ruffles for the sleeves (I have a couple
of very cool books on pulled-thread embroidery).  The petticoat will be
rose-colored wool (instructor's suggestion).  I've thought of quilting
the petticoat, but it'll depend on how the wool takes to being
quilted....
My next project, however, is an outfit for a 10th c. Norse outfit
(western style, such as might have been worn by an Irish woman living in
Dublin).  I purchased the turtle brooches for the apron, and have a nice
<g> collection of appropriate beads and amber for the necklaces.  I'll
be making a linen cap and shift of plain (tabby-weave), 3.5 oz. linen. 
The gown and apron will be wool--which colors, I haven't yet decided,
although they both will be twill weave (I have a pretty good stash,
though). Dunno that I'll have time to do appropriate shoes, though, so
they may have to wait a bit.  And if I end up wanting a tablet-woven
belt, I'll have to be trading with a friend for one, as I just *don't*
have time to learn how to tablet weave <laugh>.....
--sue


> -----Original Message-----
> 
> Hello.
> I have wondered, if you would go for this topic!
> If you have your favourite costume  portrait online somewhere, please
> give your adress and your admiration for this. Why do you choose this,
> could you give some information of it and how would you make it today???
> 
> Any??? :-)
> 
> Bjarne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Costume Portrait and Your next project
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:57:14 -0700
Status: RO

Favorite costume portrait?  You mean I have to pick just ONE?  Okay, among
the favorites would be:

Tissot's "Too Early" --
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/tissot/p-tissot16.htm (there's someone
out there -- is it Cynthia Barnes?  who once upon a time had an amazing
repro of the pink dress from this painting)

and

Ingres' "Princess de Broglie"
(http://www.marquise.de/1800/arte/a1853_1.shtml (just for the pleats in the
skirt!)

As far as current projects, again, you mean I'm only supposed to have one?
I'm currently working on an 1890's ballgown with way too much bead
embroidery (http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/projects.html), and I
just started the 1836-37 evening dress from Nancy Bradfield
(http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/1836.html).  (Yes, Heather, I was
inspired by that "Sew Wrong" site to start using blogs on my site!).  Of
course, this doesn't count all of the projects living in my head!

- Kendra



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 01:19:50 -0400
Status: RO

Leslie,

I think this is the exhibit that Susan, my assistant, went to a couple of
years ago in Mobile, Alabama.  If it is, she sent me some postcards from the
exhibit.  The gowns were beautiful!  Susan, come out of lurking and tell
all.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com






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Subject: [h-cost] Re: spangles
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 03:08:15 -0400
Status: RO


> *G*  I finally found out that those period looking gold and silver
spangles are easier to get a
> hold of than I thought.  Trick is to ask your local needlework store to
order them from Kreinik...
> don't know if kreinik sells directly or not.

    Kreinik do not sell directly, no. But we carry the spangles (the p-word
you're looking for is paillettes.) :-) You can view and order them through
our secure, online catalogue. URL in tagline.

> They are the type formed by taking a nearly circle twist of wire and
flattening... and will tarnish
> eventually, but...

    The silver paillettes will most definitely tarnish, much sooner than the
gold. The gold will tarnish as well, but it will take much longer. It is the
high environmental pollutants that primarily contribute to this problem. The
grade of gold they use is actually quite good, much better than the military
grade that goes green.

    One might also remember when working with the paillettes, or any bullion
thread for that matter, to minimize contact with your skin as much as
possible, as your own oils can contribute greatly to the dulling of the
gold.

    On a personal note, I work extensively with real gold thread (bullion)
and have found by remaining scrupulously clean about my hands and my
environment I greatly enhance the brilliance and longevity of the gold.
Frankly, I loathe using mylars now, as they just don't create the same
effect. Having said that, you can't wash or dry clean items that have been
embellished with bullion, so that sort of inhibits creation of garments to
be worn on a regular basis. My general rule of thumb is: if the garment is
to be part of my regular repetoire of clothes, I use mylar threads as they
handle delicate cycle and air drying very well. If the garment is an
historical reproduction or an artpiece, I use the bullion thread and treat
with care.

    We do offer courses in real metal work once a year here at the old stone
house. You can view the slate of courses either through our Calendar on our
website, or through the secure, online catalogue. And I'm always open to
questions.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 01:34:38 -0700
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>What is pineapple fabric? It
>looks almost like a linen to me.

Fabric made from pineapple fibre.  I think they get it from the 
leaves.  They use pineapple fibre cloth in the Phillipines too.

>Now for the second question. I was looking through the travel section for my
>local paper and they had an article on an exhibit in Memphis, Tn on the
>Russian Czars. Has anyone been to see this yet? Is is worth the trip? The
>article said they have on exhibit the coronation robe that was made for the
>Empress Maria Alexandrovna in 1856 and by the picture in paper looks kind of
>interesting. They also have portraits, faberge eggs and lists others on
>display.

Yes.  I am sure it would be worth it for me anyway, and no, I haven't seen it.

Kayta
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] visiting London
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> I didn't see the original post, so please excuse me if someone has
> already mentioned this -- the Museum of London also has a dress
> collection (not sure what's regularly on view).  If you're up to a day
> trip, you should head out to Bath to see the Museum of Dress!

It's also worth pointing out htat if you want to arrange "behind the 
scenes" visits to see setuff that isn't on display, you should o so 
well in advance so that there's enough time book it and arrange a 
free slot on the days when they have someone available to be with 
you for such a visit.

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Favorite Costume Portrait
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> Bjarne, I reposted this because I think it is such a fun topic, and I
> think people are not picking up on the intention of the subject line. 
> I really want to hear what everyone  else's favorites are.

> > Hello.
> > I have wondered, if you would go for this topic!
> > If you have your favourite costume  portrait online somewhere,
> > please give your adress and your admiration for this. Why do you
> > choose this, could you give some information of it and how would you
> > make it today??? 

Thanks Saragrace, I missed this one entirely!

OK.... erm.... do I actually have a favourite, or can I narrow down 
the ones I like to favourites....  Well there's the Swiss Guards in the 
righ-hand side of the Mass at Bolsena fresco by Rafaello.  it's one 
of the walls over and around a door in Stanza di Eliodoro, Palazzi 
Pontifici in the Vatican.

http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.cgi?author=&title=mass+bolsena&
comment=&time=any&school=any&form=any&type=any&location=

The details that shows the five kneeling men.

I've mentioned it before and it's been one fo my favourite's for years 
but I've still not gotten around to makining an outfit liek these.  I 
particularly liek the brown and green one in the foreground - all 
those alternating panels.  I'm still nto sure about the opening of the 
bodice part of the.. what would you call that skirted overpart?... the 
jerkin?

There's a picture by Lotto of St Dominic resuscitating Cardinal 
Fossonova's Nephiew (the Miracle of St Domonic) which shows 
suck a garment open/unfastened at the front with one side of it 
flapped back revealing the 3 stay-tapes holding the pleats inplace in 
the skirts and showing that the front opening is off-centre - to the 
left side of the front, but I've never found a large/colour reproduction 
of it that shows how it fastened, or what shape the side-front piece 
it fastens to is. 

There's a painting in the National Gallery in London (don't have the 
details of the artist or title of the paiting on me) that shows a small 
figure wearing a similar garment which is fastened across, has a 
left-front opening but the upper part is obscured by a cloak over the 
top and the lower part (not fully fastened, so you can see where it 
opens) appears to have cord or lacings spanning the gap - but no 
visible lacing holes or loops... if I recall correctly the lacing cord is 
gold coloured.

That aside, I'd make the bodice part with a canvas interlinig for 
surdyness and I'd probably go with two differnet colours of velvet 
for the outer fabric....  The skirts/bases I'd cut on a circular pattern - 
to get those nice rounded pleats that aren't bulky at the waist but 
which flare out towards the hem.

I'd devide the circle into 8 or 16 segments, and add seam, 
allowance to each panel, then cut out alternating panels of each 
colour for the main skirts and the same for the alternating coloured 
part on each of them.... it's be like sewing a circular patchwork 
together...<G>

The doublet beneath I lean towards doing like the one in the St 
Dominic picture, which seems to be slightly padded- quilted in 
vertical rows from the hem (at the waist) to the low neckline....

Although I suppose it could be a similar effect to the boices that are 
boned with hemp-cord which Jen, Sarah and Melissa have been 
experimenting with on their websites at....

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/cording/cord.html

http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate/1543pg2.html

and 

http://www.sempstress.org/articles/pursuit_underpinnings.html

which just occured to me as I was typing this....

And the sleeves would match this underdoublet, being full and puffy 
atth the top and narrowing down to a fairly fitted wrist-forearm, or 
possibly being paned in ypper and lower panes like the ones in 
another fresco in the Vatican.

I would probably go with fitted sewn-hose like the ones i use for 15 
century on the grounds that the lower haldf of them is all that will 
usually be seen.  In the St Dominic painting the hose are differnet 
colours/fabrics in the upper and lower halves.  Lower halves being 
fitted the upper ones being like slashed and pinked shorts - I'm not 
sure I'd have the patience to do all that slashing and pinking in a 
sturdily finished enough way to be easily washable - and 99percent 
of the garb I make is machine washable because otherwise it just 
doesn't get worn because dry cleaning is too much expense and 
aggrivation.

This is, of course, assuming I ever get around to actually making 
the thing....<G>



Teddy
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From: Leslie Calkum <calkum@usa.net>
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Status: RO

Thank you do much. I keep looking at it and I really want to get into the case
just so I can touch it.

Leslie


Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:

Pineapple fabric is actually woven from fibers of pineapple leaves! My
brother brought me some from the Philippines years ago - I remember it
feeling a bit like very fine nylon.  I found the following:

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mybarong/jusandpintra.html

Piqa (Pineapple)-Weaving in Kalibo, Aklan

Kalibo, the oldest town and capital of Aklan, enjoys the prestige of
being the center of piqa cloth weaving in this province. Weaving in
individual houses or backyards is concentrated, however, in the
barrios of new and old Buswang and Bachao Sur. The Aklan piqa cloth is
woven from the finest mature leaves of native pineapples, the wild
pineapples called the Red Spanish variety. Two imported varieties, the
Smooth Cayenne and Queen, have been reported to yield durable fibers
for cloth weaving. Commercial pineapples do not yield a fiber with
notable tensile strength. These wild pineapple plants are planted from
the cuttings of the wild pineapple fruit and thrive best in open
fields with sandy clay soil. After about a year from planting, three
to five leaves are cut from each plant. These piqa plants are grown in
the barrios of Banga, Altavas, Nabas and Tangalan.

Stripping or extracting the fiber by hand from the plant is done
rather crudely. Recently, the Philippine Textile Research Institute
(PTRI), a government agency tasked with the research and development
of textiles in the country, came up with a process that would extract
the fiber from the leaf in a more convenient and efficient manner,
that is, through a decorticating machine. Of course in those
individual houses in the provinces, piqa fiber extraction is still
done by hand.

The green epidermal layer is scraped off the leaf by means of a
coconut husk or a piece of broken china. The liniwan, being the finest
fiber, is used for weaving the piqa cloth. The second layer, bastos,
is a coarse fiber used in making strings or twine. The finer fiber is
called piqukpok. All these fibers are combed to further clean them
(usually by the river since it is believed that its water makes the
strands whiter) and render them easy for handknotting into continuous
strands. Since the individual stripped fiber is no longer than 30
inches, the fibers have to be knotted. This process is known in the
dialect as pag-panug-ot, an utterly delicate and laborious task. A
piece of bamboo is fashioned into a blade to cut off the end of each
knot.

The next step is warping. This is done on pegs struck in a
board. Another laborious step, it usually takes 15 to 20 days to warp
enough yarns to complete a "sucod" of 18 to 20 "bucos" or 54 to 60
meters of cloth.

Pag-talinyas or spinning is likewise executed with a crude
hand-operated bobbin winder which is turned by the right hand while
the left hand drills the strand into a tiny mold made of reed or
tabun-ak.

These processes over, the weaver is now ready to face the loom, often
as old as the first weaver in the family. The loom has foot-operated
treadle with an extended overhead warp beam with two harnesses and two
treadles. The warp is wound into the warp beam. Then it is treaded
into the boddle (benting) reed or sucod. The benting allows the warp
to open when the treadle is stepped on the feet. The sucod is used to
press the weft to thicken the cloth.

The thickness and width of the cloth is determined by the sucod. There
are the 65, 70 and 80 types of winder. For instance, the 65 sucod
produces a cloth of about 24 inches in width; 70 sucod, 29 inches, and
the 80 sucod, 31 to 32 inches.

Note that the bobbin with the weft is placed into the shuttle. The
bobbin, incidentally, is held in place by a piece of coconut
midrib. As the treadle is pressed by the feet, the warp opens and the
shuttle is then thrown into the opening. Simultaneously the sucod is
pressed into the cloth. Weaving the cloth continues with this
cvcle. From the treadle with the feet, the weaver (usually a female)
throws in the shuttle with the right hand, and then catches it with
the left hand. Next she presses the sucod with the right hand. Then
she presses the other treadle again with the feet, throwing the
shuttle with the left hand and catching it with the right hand, and
then pressing the sucod with the right hand.

Dyeing the fiber to any desired color may be executed at this
point. Normally piqa is beige or dirty white or ecru but dyed piqa
produces blue or black piqa cloth. The result is equally dramatic and
charming.

In the olden days, the weavers decided on their own which design may
be inlaid or embroidered into the thin as hair piqa fiber. Usually
designs take the form of flowers, fruits, coconut trees, nipa huts or
any other designs the weaver's creative imagination concocts. Either
the designs are copied from cloths which have already been designed or
inlaid into the fabric with the aid of a graphing paper. In the case
of the latter, the design is made on the warp.
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:22:02 EDT
Status: RO

Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was 
ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest 
number so I can put faces to these names!

<< http://www.netherton.net/robin >>

--Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:53:04 EDT
Status: RO


I'm currently working on a 1570's-ish English noblewoman's gown.  I expect to 
finish within the month.  It's made of today's "mockvelvet" (panne' that is 
not crushed nor stretchy), because I had a bolt of it in my stash  that I got 
for $3/yd.  The gown is cranberry, with black shoulder rolls and black 
forepart on the skirt.  The forepart is latticed in gold trim and tiny pearl 
strand, with gold filigrees set with red rhinestones.  The sleeves are 
latticed with black 1/4" ribbon accented with pearls at the crossings-- or 
maybe in the boxes, haven't decided.  The overskirt is lined in ivory satin, 
as is the bodice.  My motif for the bodice trim is inspired by the Pelican 
Portrait of Elizabeth I, so figure on jewels, pearls, and pinking. The 
partlet is done, minus a few beads.  It has a lattice of "blackwork" which 
was actually just a fancy stitch on my sewing machine, with gold beads in the 
boxes and gold cluny lace on the collar band and down the front split.  The 
ruffs are white with black edges; a full suit with wide neck ruff and smaller 
wristlets.  This is my first attempt at something so formal for myself, since 
until recently joining the SCA I had nowhere to wear a full farthingale.

My next project (for myself, since as a seamstress I am constantly sewing 
simpler stuff for other people) is my "Elizabethan fantasy" wedding dress.  I 
have a sketch of that, but as I collect trims and fabric for accent-work, it 
could change.  Wedding is next October (2003). 

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:29:03 EDT
Status: RO

I'm busy assembling things for my milliner's shop, circa 1816, here at the 
Riversdale House Museum.  It will be based on ads for milliners' shops in 
Washington.  I just finished a canezou--white cotton with pleated ruffle trim 
at neck and wrists--and a baby's cap--leftovers of white cotton sateen and 
Swiss embroidered trims.  Have three straw hats to modify into bonnets and 
maybe another baby's cap and a lady's cap to finish.
Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:35:50 -0600
Status: RO

Ooooohhhh....pretty (well, I'm also partial to lavender <g>).  Is that
some sort of furry fringe on the bottom of the skirt in the fashion
plate?
--sue, completely victorian-ignorant....

Kendra Van Cleave wrote:
> 
> As far as current projects, again, you mean I'm only supposed to have one?
> I'm currently working on an 1890's ballgown with way too much bead
> embroidery (http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/projects.html),
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Study Day
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:32:30 EDT
Status: RO

We will be having a costume study day at the Riversdale House Museum on June 
13, 8:30-4:00.  The theme is "Costume--Ideal and Real" and we will be looking 
at images and extant garments from 1800-1820.  Collector Mary Doering, 
curator Alden O'Brien, and I will be conducting the program. Cost is $40, and 
includes lunch and a tour of the exhibit, "Dressing the Federal City."
For more information, please e-mail me privately at ann.wass@pgparks.com.
Ann Wass
Riversdale House Museum
4811 Riverdale Rd.
Riverdale Park MD 20737 
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:06:18 -0700
Status: RO

This is one of my favorites as well.  I wish I could find a man that
would wear it so I could make it.  I have an excellent handout from
Julie Adams on the organ pipe pleating.  In the past when folks have
requested it, she has given me permission to send it to people.  I ask
that they send her the money (~$3 the last time).  I would be really
interested in the pictures you spoke of where the garment is somewhat
open.  When you have time.......



.  I'm still nto sure about the 
**opening of the 
**bodice part of the.. what would you call that skirted 
**overpart?... the 
**jerkin?
**

Are you talking about the top part that is 'attached' to the military
base? (assuming it is really attached-the pictures I have seen of them
suggest they might be a separate piece).   Hmm, good question.  Doublet,
jerkin, "bodice"????



** - I'm not 
**sure I'd have the patience to do all that slashing and pinking in a 
**sturdily finished enough way to be easily washable - and 99percent 
**of the garb I make is machine washable because otherwise it just 
**doesn't get worn because dry cleaning is too much expense and 
**aggrivation.

Now you make me wonder if the fraycheck slashing will hold up to
washing.  I did it on some cotton velvet, one layer, dried completely
and then another.  Then I slashed it.  If you don't touch it, you'd
never know it was there.  I have also seen recently where someone did
some in wool which they had felted somewhat.  It was hanging in there
very well.

So glad that folks are responding.  This is fun!!

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:33:51 -0700
Status: RO

My next few scheduled costumes will be servant-wear from the mid-1800's to 
the early 1900's.  Lately I have fallen in with the food prep folks at 
historical dance events.  It bothered my sense of historical correctness to 
see our hostess, in satins and velvets, mopping up spills, so suddenly I 
needed something to wear which was practical enough to actually work in.  I 
tend to wear the fanciest thing I can to events, and take pride in being 
better-dressed than the average participant (just a little ego here).  But 
now I'm part of the help, and they dress simply by comparison with their 
mistress.

My question is, how can I dress fancy enough to suit my inner sense of 
costume pride without getting above myself as a servant?  What kinds of 
details can I put on costumes, which will show off and be unobtrusive at 
the same time?  Servants can't get away with wearing expensive-looking 
fabrics or jewelry.  Servants can't get away with wearing complicated 
trimming, fine embroidery, or lace.  And servants can't get away with 
wearing the very latest style and cut of garments.  What is left?

My only guesses here are to use subtle handwork (like handmade buttonholes 
and single lines of tiny feather-stitching), little details (like 
pin-tucks, piping, and self-bias trim), and perfect tailoring.  It doesn't 
seem like much, but I have never been a servant before.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:56:54 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Tue, 23 Apr 2002 Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list
> and was ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your
> year and guest number so I can put faces to these names!

Every year, after the Costume Ball goes up, there's a flurry of discussion
on the list identifying who is whom. You can certainly find those
discussions in the archives, at:

 	http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives

You can search for the keyword "Ball" or "Costume Ball" in subject lines,
or look for posts by Penny Ladnier (the hostess) and follow the threads
she kicks off. The discussions occur usually in October.

And the link you gave:

> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>

... is my own not-quite-a-webpage. The Costume Ball is at

	http://www.onlinecostumeball.com

--Robin


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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:08:07 -0700
Status: RO

That was going to be exactly what I'd suggest!  Make sure you use a nice
interlining, too (like organza) so that the fit is perfect.

Those who sew will know how fabulous you are!

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: [h-cost] advice wanted for next projects


> My only guesses here are to use subtle handwork (like handmade buttonholes
> and single lines of tiny feather-stitching), little details (like
> pin-tucks, piping, and self-bias trim), and perfect tailoring.  It doesn't
> seem like much, but I have never been a servant before.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Costume Portrait and Your next project
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:10:45 -0700
Status: RO

It IS fur, amazingly enough.  The description of the plate reads:

"Fur shoulder-straps complete the square decollete... The graceful skirt
falls in godet pleats, and is trimmed with embroidery and fur."

It looks like a really dark, glossy fur -- beautiful in the drawing, but I'm
going to skip it in my attempt.

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Costume Portrait and Your next project


> Ooooohhhh....pretty (well, I'm also partial to lavender <g>).  Is that
> some sort of furry fringe on the bottom of the skirt in the fashion
> plate?
> --sue, completely victorian-ignorant....
>
> Kendra Van Cleave wrote:
> >
> > As far as current projects, again, you mean I'm only supposed to have
one?
> > I'm currently working on an 1890's ballgown with way too much bead
> > embroidery (http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/projects.html),
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:15:41 -0700
Status: RO

I'm just in a flurry of posting!

Okay, so I'm working on this dress from 1836-37:
http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/1836.html

Now, the original dress was made for someone very small (21" waist).  The
original skirt width is 144", and I'm wondering how much more width I should
add to the skirt to make it proportional for myself?  I'm 5'11" and NOT a
dainty flower (size 18-20).  I'll be wearing it over a crinoline
(petticoats) that needs a skirt over it of at least 120".  Should I just aim
for 145" so as not to have TOO much fullness over the crinoline?  It seems
like going higher (150", 160") brings the skirt into the 1850's -- I'm
surprised at how full this skirt is for this early period.

Any thoughts?

- Kendra


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 23 12:18:38 2002
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:11 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:34 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:58 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:58 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 23 12:33:46 2002
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:32:34 -0600
Status: RO


photo at:

http://www.boston.com/news/daily/23/duct_tape_prom.htm


SOLDIERS GROVE, Wis. -- Although Shaelyn Benson and David Daniels
didn't spend much money on their prom outfits, they still attracted
plenty of attention.

The Wisconsin high school students crafted their Renaissance-style
formals out of duct tape and say they only spent about $20 each.

The outfits were a hit at the North Crawford High School prom and at a
pre-prom dinner Saturday.

"Everyone wanted pictures," Benson said. "I think I was the most
photographed person there."

The couple hopes to win a Stuck at the Prom contest sponsored by Duck
Brand Duct Tape. First prize includes a $2,500 scholarship for each
winner, and another $2,500.

Benson said she created her dress over an old red prom dress that she
cut apart and used as backing so her outfit would have some
flexibility and movement.

For detail, she cut out designs on the bodice in maroon colored duct
tape. She also sewed in a zipper so she could easily get in and out of
the dress. For her flowers, she carried a long-stemmed rose, also made
out of duct tape.

Daniels wore black with maroon trim.

"We spent about 20 hours on my costume," he said, admitting that his
mother did much of the work.


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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:39:59 -0700
Status: RO

I'm in Group 6, Guest 22 of the 2001 pics.  Gold brocade Elizabethan gown, c. 1565.  If Penny is listening, I have a wee suggestion... It would be neato if the costumer's real name is credited along with the costume.  I recognized several people, but it would be nice to put more faces with names.  :)

Sarah

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 23 12:50:58 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Costume Portrait and Your next project
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:49:23 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


> Tissot's "Too Early" --
> http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/tissot/p-tissot16.htm (there's someone
> out there -- is it Cynthia Barnes?  who once upon a time had an amazing
> repro of the pink dress from this painting)

Naw, T'warnt me. Pink?!  Shirley Jollief had one.  Lovely thing.

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:47:28 -0700
Status: RO

That reminds me of a story... ;) See, for my sister's senior year she made a duct tape dress for her best friend to wear to senior ball.  The story goes that Erin (the friend) was refusing to wear a dress to the ball, but Alex (my sister) was determined to get her into one at any cost.  So after months of bickering about the subject, Erin finally caves in, but with one condition.  She declares that the only way she'll wear a dress to the ball is if it's made out of duct tape.  I believe she sincerely thought that Alex was not going to take her seriously and just give up the issue.  But my sister is nothing if not stubborn.  She made the dress, and a cumberbund and bow tie for Erin's date and yes, Erin wore the duct tape dress to the ball.  This was 1999, and the very next year, some kid makes a duct tape outfit, submits pics to the company and is all over the media as an innovator in fashion.  LOL. 

I'll have to find some pics and post them online of Erin's ballgown... It suited her perfectly. :)

Sarah

On Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:32:34 -0600 Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:


photo at:

http://www.boston.com/news/daily/23/duct_tape_prom.htm


SOLDIERS GROVE, Wis. -- Although Shaelyn Benson and David Daniels
didn't spend much money on their prom outfits, they still attracted
plenty of attention.

The Wisconsin high school students crafted their Renaissance-style
formals out of duct tape and say they only spent about $20 each.

The outfits were a hit at the North Crawford High School prom and at a
pre-prom dinner Saturday.

"Everyone wanted pictures," Benson said. "I think I was the most
photographed person there."

The couple hopes to win a Stuck at the Prom contest sponsored by Duck
Brand Duct Tape. First prize includes a $2,500 scholarship for each
winner, and another $2,500.

Benson said she created her dress over an old red prom dress that she
cut apart and used as backing so her outfit would have some
flexibility and movement.

For detail, she cut out designs on the bodice in maroon colored duct
tape. She also sewed in a zipper so she could easily get in and out of
the dress. For her flowers, she carried a long-stemmed rose, also made
out of duct tape.

Daniels wore black with maroon trim.

"We spent about 20 hours on my costume," he said, admitting that his
mother did much of the work.


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Favorite Costume Portrait-Teddy's
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:06:33 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


Hi

> This is one of my favorites as well.  I wish I could find a man that
> would wear it so I could make it.  I have an excellent handout from
> Julie Adams on the organ pipe pleating.  In the past when folks have
> requested it, she has given me permission to send it to people.  I ask
> that they send her the money (~$3 the last time).  I would be really
> interested in the pictures you spoke of where the garment is somewhat
> open.  When you have time.......

I've not found it in any book on Ren art or on Lotto himself (seems 
to be one of the few consistently left out or reproduced too smal for 
the details to show - it's a small part of a large scene).  There's a 
black and white repro of the figure in

Dress in Italian painting, 1460-1500 (by) Elizabeth Birbari
London : J Murray, 1975.  ISBN: 0719524237

if you can get hold of a copy.  It shows the 3 pleat-tapes in the skirt 
but not the fastenings up the front of the bodice 

The best colour image on the net of it was sent to me by a 
researcher friend who understands a little Italian....

http://www.accademiacarrara.bergamo.it/foto/acq01033.jpg

but I can't get it big or clear enough (as it shows the whole picture) 
to show even the skirt tapes.

None of this is helped by the fact that the figure is flat out on the 
ground with his head towards the viewer and his feet pointing away 
- not the best angle from which to view such details...<G>

Not sure I can even find the details of the National Gallery picture 
any more - I'll have to hope it's still on show next time I go so I can 
write them down again.

Let me know if you turn up anything else.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Favorite Costume Portrait-Teddy's
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:10:37 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


Ooops!  Hit send too soon!!

> **I'm still not sure about the 
> **opening of the 
> **bodice part of the.. what would you call that skirted 
> **overpart?... the 
> **jerkin?
> **
> 
> Are you talking about the top part that is 'attached' to the military
> base? (assuming it is really attached-the pictures I have seen of them
> suggest they might be a separate piece).   Hmm, good question. 
> Doublet, jerkin, "bodice"????

Yes - and it's definately attachedin the St Dominic one (the garment 
is dlapped open as one joined piece at he front) and the National 
gallery one (the top of the skirt gaps at the same place the bodice 
does)

> Now you make me wonder if the fraycheck slashing will hold up to
> washing.  I did it on some cotton velvet, one layer, dried
> completely and then another.  Then I slashed it.  If you don't
> touch it, you'd never know it was there.  I have also seen recently
> where someone did some in wool which they had felted somewhat.  It
> was hanging in there very well. 

The problem is I'd never get around to taking the risk if I weren't 
sure before I started.  I'd hate to have gone to all that work only to 
spoil the garment the first time I threw it in the washer.
 
> So glad that folks are responding.  This is fun!!

'Tis indeed.


Teddy
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:36:54 -0700
Status: RO


>Those who sew will know how fabulous you are!

That's the look I am going for.  We peacocks have to do something, even if 
we are helping in the kitchen. Thanx.


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:Favorite Costume Portrait-Teddy's-we need help finding a better picture!
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:41:23 -0700
Status: RO

>>That is very, very interesting.  What a 'strange' picture.  Do you
think it is a massacre scene or plague???  So it looks like the bases
are connected.  Almost like a coat.........MMMMMM-very cool.  

Lets hope someone else reads this and has a better source (close up).
You've stirred up my interest on this one.  I've never seen this picture
before!!  Thanks

Sg

**
**I've not found it in any book on Ren art or on Lotto himself (seems 
**to be one of the few consistently left out or reproduced too smal for 
**the details to show - it's a small part of a large scene).  There's a 
**black and white repro of the figure in
**
**Dress in Italian painting, 1460-1500 (by) Elizabeth Birbari 
**London : J Murray, 1975.  ISBN: 0719524237
**
**if you can get hold of a copy.  It shows the 3 pleat-tapes in 
**the skirt 
**but not the fastenings up the front of the bodice 
**
**The best colour image on the net of it was sent to me by a 
**researcher friend who understands a little Italian....
**
**http://www.accademiacarrara.bergamo.it/foto/acq01033.jpg
**
**but I can't get it big or clear enough (as it shows the whole 
**picture) 
**to show even the skirt tapes.
**
**None of this is helped by the fact that the figure is flat out on the 
**ground with his head towards the viewer and his feet pointing away 
**- not the best angle from which to view such details...<G>

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:10:28 +0100
Status: RO

Hi everyone,

I have just opened my h-cost file and found several million (OK, a
couple of hundred, what with the weird double-posting effect
apparently again raising it's menacing head) e-mails, many of them
about the jewelled square, or the square of jewels.
Thank you!
The first time I raised this question I got the princely total of no
answers...
Naturally, this time they all arrived when I am frantically preparing
costumes and crowns for the performance of Gigantomachia, or "The War
of the Giants" for the Shakespeare's Birthday celebrations this last
weekend. It went well, which slightly reconciled me to the fact that I
had to miss the reenactors in the great Procession to lay flowers on
Shakespeares grave, because I was filing off the last sharp bits on
Mercury's winged headpiece, a task which I should have done after a
lecture at the V&A on 16th century English silversmiths.
Unfortunately, I got sidetracked ...
And so it goes...
So let me say thanks in advance of my going through all the posts; I'm
very grateful.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:58 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 23 15:43:00 2002
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:42:09 +0200
Status: RO

I apologise for the multible posts. It was my server who made that!

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 23 15:52:18 2002
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:50:49 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Carolyn.
Yes, this is very true, all the people who make clothes, usually looks after
the seams and the stitching, so you just show them how clever you are. And
also the cutting is very essential.
Have fun!!!

Bjarne

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> >Those who sew will know how fabulous you are!
>
> That's the look I am going for.  We peacocks have to do something, even if
> we are helping in the kitchen. Thanx.
>
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:11 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:34 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:58 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:58 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:58 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:58 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 23 21:12:44 2002
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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hamburg Museum catalog
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:00:48 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


--- Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net> wrote:
> I'm currently looking into German costume from the mid-18th century.  Would
> this catalog indicate at all how commoners' clothing in mid-18th c. Hamburg
> would have been different from what the English and French were wearing at
> the same time?

"Commoners?"  Not a bit.  It's the "best of class" catalog.  Definitely
high-end, high society & haute couture. Think court, ballroom, diplomatic
circles & attending the opera for the most part. There are women's gowns &
men's suits from Germany, Austria, France & the UK. In your period you will
find *maybe* 1 or 2 "at home" or "everyday" for the upper middle class (e.g.
the gentleman farmer or the banker's wife).  I'll look again when I get home,
just to double check. Will left you know if I change my assessment.

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:12:58 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian
I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was wearing a
cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.

Bjarne from Denmark

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:19:37 -0600
Status: RO

Super-attention to *really* authentic details comes to mind, or perhaps
making clothing for an upper-ranked servant....Or maybe something that
looks like a *really nice* hand-me-down (did employers do that in the
late 19th c.???)
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> 
> My question is, how can I dress fancy enough to suit my inner sense of
> costume pride without getting above myself as a servant?  What kinds of
> details can I put on costumes, which will show off and be unobtrusive at
> the same time?  Servants can't get away with wearing expensive-looking
> fabrics or jewelry.  Servants can't get away with wearing complicated
> trimming, fine embroidery, or lace.  And servants can't get away with
> wearing the very latest style and cut of garments.  What is left?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 1830's skirt width
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:24:27 -0600
Status: RO

Hi.
I'd look at the complete length of the original (was it made for an
adult? a child?) to give yourself some sort of idea...and look at other
garments (or patterns?) from the same time period, to give yourself an
overall idea of the range of skirt widths.  It would at least allow you
to make an informed decision, whatever way you decide to go.  I'd
imagine that you wouldn't want to change the overall silhouette too
much.....;-)
--sue

Kendra Van Cleave wrote:
> 
> I'm just in a flurry of posting!
> 
> Okay, so I'm working on this dress from 1836-37:
> http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/1836.html
> 
> Now, the original dress was made for someone very small (21" waist).  The
> original skirt width is 144", and I'm wondering how much more width I should
> add to the skirt to make it proportional for myself?  I'm 5'11" and NOT a
> dainty flower (size 18-20).  I'll be wearing it over a crinoline
> (petticoats) that needs a skirt over it of at least 120".  Should I just aim
> for 145" so as not to have TOO much fullness over the crinoline?  It seems
> like going higher (150", 160") brings the skirt into the 1850's -- I'm
> surprised at how full this skirt is for this early period.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> - Kendra
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] advice wanted for next projects
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:21:54 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

> > My question is, how can I dress fancy enough to suit my inner sense of
> > costume pride without getting above myself as a servant?  What kinds of
> > details can I put on costumes, which will show off and be unobtrusive at
> > the same time?  Servants can't get away with wearing expensive-looking
> > fabrics or jewelry.

Sometimes the most common items are the hardest to find. That fabric that's
just dead-on for color, weight, material, and weave.  Those everyday items
like buttons and lacings that we take for granted. All the right layers. The
right shoes. The right headgear. Find out what the "costume jewellery" of
the day was like, and add a well-chosen, well-placed piece. And most
important of all, the right fit. I remember the first time I met Drea at
Pennsic, looking like she had stepped out of a Flemish painting. Nothing
fancy--solid working woman's clothing--but so *right*.

Susan

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Apr 23 22:27:43 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Were you an Online Costume Ball Guest?
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:25:33 -0400
Status: RO

Bjarne,

I received this message from you via the list about six times.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Were you an Online Costume Ball Guest?


> Hi Gillian
> I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was
wearing a
> cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.
>
> Bjarne from Denmark
>
> Azelana@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list
and was
> > ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and
guest
> > number so I can put faces to these names!
> >
> > << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
> >
> > --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> --
>
>
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
>
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
>
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>




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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:59:12 -0400
Status: RO

Only 6? I got it 12 times already!  Bjarne, I think you might have a
little problem. There are some new bugs going around, so be careful.

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Were you an Online Costume Ball Guest?

Bjarne,

I received this message from you via the list about six times.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Were you an Online Costume Ball Guest?


> Hi Gillian
> I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I
was
wearing a
> cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.



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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:18:32 -0700
Status: RO

Yes, this is very true, all the people who make clothes, usually looks after
the seams and the stitching, so you just show them how clever you are. And
also the cutting is very essential.

-snip-

Super-attention to *really* authentic details comes to mind

-snip-

>Sometimes the most common items are the hardest to find. That fabric that's
>just dead-on for color, weight, material, and weave.  Those everyday items
>like buttons and lacings that we take for granted. All the right layers. The
>right shoes. The right headgear. Find out what the "costume jewellery" of
the day was like, and add a well-chosen, well-placed piece.  And most 
important of all, the right fit.

Thank you everyone who advised.  I may go with a plain dark material, or 
subtle dark print, with many hand-worked buttonholes and antique buttons 
down the front, and an antique lace collar.  I have a couple of 1880s 
costume jewelry bar pins, like for right at the base of the collar.  Cut 
and fit and details - yes, I think I can do that.

As it happens, I inherited a box of what I would call costume jewelry from 
my grandmother.  She said costume jewelry meant semi-precious stones and 
sterling silver, rather than rubies, diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds, in 
solid gold.  Amythests, garnets, topaz, and turquoise were semi-precious, 
according to her.  There wasn't much of the stones-and-sterling stuff in 
the box, but there were several cool pieces of 'paste' set in gold plated 
metal.  Aparently the stuff wasn't just hers, it was from other members of 
the family too.

>I remember the first time I met Drea at
>Pennsic, looking like she had stepped out of a Flemish painting. Nothing
>fancy--solid working woman's clothing--but so *right*.

I once went to an SCA event with a Ren. Faire friend who had never been to 
one, so we went in our Faire clothes.  The friend said I was the only one 
there who looked like I was wearing clothes - and my costume wasn't even 
that good.


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 1830's skirt width
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:32:33 -0700
Status: RO


>I'm just in a flurry of posting!
>
>Okay, so I'm working on this dress from 1836-37:
>http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/1836.html

>Any thoughts?

Wear as small a crinoline as you can get away with, and do most of the 
fullness with stiff petticoats.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ductape outfits
From: Sarah Goodman <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:13:44 -0700
Status: RO

http://home.earthlink.net/~lithiate/duct_tape.html

In response to the earlier post about the duct tape prom outfits... I put
some of the pictures of my sister's duct tape dress that she made for her
friend in 1999.  There are other photos from this past halloween that show a
duct tape wig and my sister's "test" dress, but unfortunately I was unable
to find them (I think said friend has the pics).  :)

Sarah

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 24 01:37:38 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ductape outfits
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 00:36:08 -0400
Status: RO

I have a question?????  Aren't these outfits hot to wear??????

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 24 03:12:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Textile Mills
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 02:10:54 -0400
Status: RO

I am still working with our Boy Scouts on their textile merit badges.  I
have three questions????

1. Does anyone know the name of George Washington's boyhood home outside of
Ft. A.P. Hill in Virginia.  It is near Robert E. Lee's home on the Northern
Neck.  I know this is still a working plantation and they do the shearing of
sheep, spinning of wool, etc.  I thought it would be a good field trip for
the boys.

2. Does anyone know the names of the active mills in North Carolina along
the I-85 corridor... between Raleigh and Charlotte.  I would like to take
the boys on a field trip to some of the mills that spin and weave natural
fibers.  I know one is Burlington but does anyone know of others?  My
grandmother was a spinner in a Rock Hill, SC mill in 1900.  But this mill is
all closed up.  When we had a CSA meeting in Raleigh, I meet a lady who was
a color specialist at one of the mills.  I can't recall her name.  Did any
of the other CSA members recall meeting this lady?

Is Susan Eanes, the former curator from Waxhaw Museum, NC still on the list?
Or does someone have her email address.  Maybe she can help me with this.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:14:11 +0200
Status: RO

Hi,

In 2001 I was guest 12, 19 and 24.
And I will be back in 2002 :-)

Greetings,
        Deredere

Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list and was
> ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and guest
> number so I can put faces to these names!
>
> << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
>
> --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 03:28:45 -0400
Status: RO

Hello all!

Sorry to be a little late on the thread... been sick with round #3 of the
flu and a toothache.  I swear the next time I take my kids to the doctor, a
can of Lysol is going with me.

I am glad you all are enjoying the Ball year round.  I am already collecting
graphics for the 2002 Ball.

I never reveal who the people in the Ball are because I want it to be a
mystery.  From the very first year, in 1998, it has been a blast watching
people trying to figure out who everyone else is.  Now if you were at a real
life ball wouldn't that be fun of the party... everyone in one room in
costume, trying to figure out who the other guests are?  I inform our guests
that they may tell other people who they are, but my lips are sealed. Just
like our mystery hosts over the past few years... I don't reveal them
either.  But there are lots of hints. LOL!  Some of our guests enjoy being
anonymous.

I have already received several entries for the 2002 Ball.  So if you want
to send me an entry, be my guests.  We advertise that we are accepting
guests is between August-Sept.  The deadline is always the third week in
Sept.  This gives me time to set the Ball up.  Before you send me an entry,
please send me a blank message, with the words, INCOMING BALL ENTRY in the
subject line.  Then send me the next message with the attachment of your
entry.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  [h-cost] RE:Favorite Costume Portrait
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:53:59 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >>That is very, very interesting.  What a 'strange' picture.  Do you
> think it is a massacre scene or plague???  So it looks like the bases
> are connected.  Almost like a coat.........MMMMMM-very cool.  

I'm not sure but I think he's been trampled by a horse - look to the 
right, there's another scene with him on the ground with a horse 
*very* close... I think it's one of those pictures that's supposed to 
tell the entire story in different scenes in the smae picture.


Teddy
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] striped fabric?
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 02:27:57 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


There are tons of cutesy prints out there, but almost no plain old striped
fabrics to be found.  I'm looking for either silk, wool or cotton, black
and white (so it can be dyed), 3/4" to 1" wide stripes.  Simple, basic,
utterly impossible to find.  Silk would be the best, but at this point,
I'd take anything dyeable.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:09:19 -0500
Status: RO

If you look at the balls for 1999, 2000, and 2001, you can see me as
Philadelphia Carey (real Court lady who I used to play at Bristol
RenFaire) in various guises. I am also in two of the Balls as fantasy
characters, but I'll let you try to figure that out for yourselves. 8-)


Karen

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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:04:13 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
Excuse me for getting into this disgussion, but do you think that swedish would
be much different from german? I have just baught a book with swedish patterns.
Many of those are domestic middle class i would say. There are many jacket
patterns, some of those have T-shaped sleaves, cut one with the front and back,
there is a robe a la polonaise with embroidery, but it is not luxury, pretty, but
middle class,
There are 10 jacket patterns to choose from, 1 Adrienne, early 18th.c.One of the
jackets is a little more luxurious made in silk, it has a matching skirt and it
is beautifully embroidered. Then i have a book with danish patterns, Denmark is
living next to germany, and i think we had the fashion to come from france,
trough Germany, so it maybe had a little german touch to it. But the danish book
is only nobility and rich patterns, i am afraid.
But try to think that the poorer people tryed to keep up with the rich, they just
had to use different materials, and off cause they had to be more flexible, they
had to work in the clothes.

Bjarne

Cin wrote:

> --- Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net> wrote:
> > I'm currently looking into German costume from the mid-18th century.  Would
> > this catalog indicate at all how commoners' clothing in mid-18th c. Hamburg
> > would have been different from what the English and French were wearing at
> > the same time?
>
> "Commoners?"  Not a bit.  It's the "best of class" catalog.  Definitely
> high-end, high society & haute couture. Think court, ballroom, diplomatic
> circles & attending the opera for the most part. There are women's gowns &
> men's suits from Germany, Austria, France & the UK. In your period you will
> find *maybe* 1 or 2 "at home" or "everyday" for the upper middle class (e.g.
> the gentleman farmer or the banker's wife).  I'll look again when I get home,
> just to double check. Will left you know if I change my assessment.
>
> =====
> --cin
> Cynthia
> hysteria95126@yahoo.com
>
> __________________________________________________
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--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:08:47 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Penny.
Yes, and today there were even more. It was my server yesterday. I could not
send any emails, and when it started to work again, i think my puter had
tryed to send several times. Therefore it sended that many, (as many as i
tryed to send, when it didnt work)
Please forgive me, it was not intended.......

Bjarne

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Bjarne,
>
> I received this message from you via the list about six times.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 10:12 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Were you an Online Costume Ball Guest?
>
> > Hi Gillian
> > I was at the costume ball, but i dont remember wich number i had. I was
> wearing a
> > cream coloured velvet suit for the year 1770. I wore a dark wig.
> >
> > Bjarne from Denmark
> >
> > Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Never knew of this page before.  Great pics!  If you are on this list
> and was
> > > ever a "guest" at the Online Costume Ball, please send your year and
> guest
> > > number so I can put faces to these names!
> > >
> > > << http://www.netherton.net/robin >>
> > >
> > > --Gillian, who is sure to send pics for 2002...
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > Leif Drews
> > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> > 1635  København V
> >
> > Bjarne Drews
> > Åboulevard 5,3.th
> > 1635 København V
> >
> > tlf. 35 37 13 70
> >
> > My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> >
> > Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 08:23:11 -0600
Status: RO

Speaking of striped fabrics, what time period would a sorta-pinstriped
wool fabric be good for? I snagged a whole bunch of it at JoAnns just on
General Hoarding Principles, but don't know what to use it for.  It's
fairly heavy (in between a suit-weight and a coat-weight), and sage
green, with very narrow off-white woven pinstripes in it.
--Sue, with too much loverly fabric....;-)

Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> 
> There are tons of cutesy prints out there, but almost no plain old striped
> fabrics to be found.  I'm looking for either silk, wool or cotton, black
> and white (so it can be dyed), 3/4" to 1" wide stripes.  Simple, basic,
> utterly impossible to find.  Silk would be the best, but at this point,
> I'd take anything dyeable.
>
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Subject: [h-cost] archaeological clothing from Mali (Africa)
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:36:35 -0700
Status: RO

In the library yesterday, I stumbled on a book that should be useful 
to _somebody_ in the historic costume community.

Bolland, Rita.  1991.  Tellem Textiles: Archeological finds from 
burial caves in Mali's Bandiagara cliff.  Royal Tropical Institute, 
Amsterdam.  ISBN 90-6832-224-9

The material covered in the book is from the 11-15th centuries and 
includes tunics, pants, and headware, with lots of construction 
diagrams and detail photos of fabrics.  One of the fascinating 
(although not entirely surprising) features of the tunic design is 
certain stylistic similarities with medieval Arabic garments.

If you know anybody interested in researching pre-modern sub-Saharan 
African clothing, put them onto this book!

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: [h-cost] Fashion books, late 19th early 20th
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:44:32 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,

People may like to know abot Postscript Books, which has a web
presence at www.psbooks.co.uk.

I get the paper catalogue, which makes things a lot easier, since the
site seems very slow. A couple of books may be of interest:

http://www.psbooks.co.uk/BookDetails.asp?Code=15706&pg=Title+Search+Re
sults&ur=Title%2Easp%3FTitle%3Dfashion%23Nav15706


and

http://www.psbooks.co.uk/BookDetails.asp?Code=21123&pg=Title+Search+Re
sults&ur=Title%2Easp%3FTitle%3Dfashion%23Nav21123

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:20:02 +0200
Status: RO

Hello

This one Gazette du bon ton, is gorgeous!
I have it in another smaller pocket format book. Sometimes i wished i had
a wife who reenacted this period. They are so charming and beautifull. And
there are many possibillities for embroidery. I would ruin her, spoil her
in dresses..

Bjarne

Stevie Gamble wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> People may like to know abot Postscript Books, which has a web
> presence at www.psbooks.co.uk.
>
> I get the paper catalogue, which makes things a lot easier, since the
> site seems very slow. A couple of books may be of interest:
>
> http://www.psbooks.co.uk/BookDetails.asp?Code=15706&pg=Title+Search+Re
> sults&ur=Title%2Easp%3FTitle%3Dfashion%23Nav15706
>
> and
>
> http://www.psbooks.co.uk/BookDetails.asp?Code=21123&pg=Title+Search+Re
> sults&ur=Title%2Easp%3FTitle%3Dfashion%23Nav21123
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion books, late 19th early 20th
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:12:19 -0700
Status: RO


>and
>
>http://www.psbooks.co.uk/BookDetails.asp?Code=21123&pg=Title+Search+Re
>sults&ur=Title%2Easp%3FTitle%3Dfashion%23Nav21123

I have a two-volume set of things like this.  There are other collections 
of them out there.


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Apr 24 16:32:23 2002
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:31:01 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
I should have started this, because it was me who asked. But tomorrow
when i have time (my day off) ill post the picture to my homepage.
My picture is not a portrait. It is a picture with 3 persons in it, well
it is a kind of portrait. It is not period, because it is a painter from
19th century who made a theatrical portrait of the insane king,
Christian VII, his queen Carolina Mathilda and the kings doctor,
Struensee. The tragical story, because Struensee and Carolina Mathilda
started an affair, she got pregnant and had a daughter. Struensee was
executed.
I like this picture because i think the painter caught the right
atmosphere. And i read that he used real historical clothes for his
models, to get the right look of the costumes. The painters name is
Christian Zartmann. He made many historical scenes in his pictures, but
i think it was very modern those days (19th century) to do that.
I particular like the mens costume, shining dazling silk.
I will post the picture tomorrow, promise

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:10:19 -0700
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>Speaking of striped fabrics, what time period would a sorta-pinstriped
>wool fabric be good for? I snagged a whole bunch of it at JoAnns just on
>General Hoarding Principles, but don't know what to use it for.  It's
>fairly heavy (in between a suit-weight and a coat-weight), and sage
>green, with very narrow off-white woven pinstripes in it.

Mary Quant, Carnaby Street 60's?


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] striped fabric?
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 08:23:11 am"
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:41:13 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

it would be good for ME!  oh ahem.  I love sage green, it's so hard to find too.

what was the bolt info? i wonder if I can find it in the bay area...


> Speaking of striped fabrics, what time period would a sorta-pinstriped
> wool fabric be good for? I snagged a whole bunch of it at JoAnns just on
> General Hoarding Principles, but don't know what to use it for.  It's
> fairly heavy (in between a suit-weight and a coat-weight), and sage
> green, with very narrow off-white woven pinstripes in it.
> --Sue, with too much loverly fabric....;-)
> 
> Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> > 
> > There are tons of cutesy prints out there, but almost no plain old striped
> > fabrics to be found.  I'm looking for either silk, wool or cotton, black
> > and white (so it can be dyed), 3/4" to 1" wide stripes.  Simple, basic,
> > utterly impossible to find.  Silk would be the best, but at this point,
> > I'd take anything dyeable.
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:40:07 -0700
Status: RO

Lee --

If you find any, let me know!  I'm a FANATIC for stripes.  You might call
Thai Silks and see what they have.

Sorry I'm not more help!

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Thompson-Herbert" <lee@retro.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] striped fabric?


>
> There are tons of cutesy prints out there, but almost no plain old striped
> fabrics to be found.  I'm looking for either silk, wool or cotton, black
> and white (so it can be dyed), 3/4" to 1" wide stripes.  Simple, basic,
> utterly impossible to find.  Silk would be the best, but at this point,
> I'd take anything dyeable.
>
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com       KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
> 
> If you find any, let me know!  I'm a FANATIC for stripes.  You might call
> Thai Silks and see what they have.

Yup.  Calling them and checking out Stone Mountain and Daughter tomorrow.
I once managed to get a purple and black 1/4" stripe dupioni from them.
There's one importer's website that shows exactly what I want...but they
don't sell to the public.  Grrr.

I mean, there is is, right there:
http://www.dannimports.com/Stripe/

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:06:55 -0700
Status: RO

Does anyone here use Maurice Leloir's _Histoire du costume de
l'antiquite a 1914_, and if so in what manner?  I just bought volumes
8-12 from an antique dealer.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:57:16 -0700
Status: RO

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> My next few scheduled costumes will be servant-wear from the mid-1800's to
> the early 1900's.  Lately I have fallen in with the food prep folks at
> historical dance events.  It bothered my sense of historical correctness to
> see our hostess, in satins and velvets, mopping up spills, so suddenly I
> needed something to wear which was practical enough to actually work in.  I
> tend to wear the fanciest thing I can to events, and take pride in being
> better-dressed than the average participant (just a little ego here).  But
> now I'm part of the help, and they dress simply by comparison with their
> mistress.

In my opinion, ...
What servants would wear would depend on the situation.  For a formal
party, where the master and mistress would what to show off their wealth
the servants would be in the house livery.  The livery could be "simple"
but made of fine material. The very well off might have have very elaborate
livery with cords and lace.  Also as the century progress the servant
livery might be in old fashion style, especially in the conservative
family.

If the servants were just serving guest during the day the livery would
probably be functional and in more current style. Again the very wealth may
have what to our our eyes could be a uniform.  

My recommendation would be simple styles of fine fabric.

Your humble and obedient servant,
David S Mallinak
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr 25 00:39:23 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion books, late 19th early 20th
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:41:07 -0500
Status: RO

LOL!  Oh Bjarne, if you ever wanted to do some of these dresses I'm sure 
you would have plenty of volunteers.  Like me for example, I volunteer 
right now. : )  I love stuff from that period.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:20 PM 4/24/2002 +0200, you wrote:
>Hello
>
>This one Gazette du bon ton, is gorgeous!
>I have it in another smaller pocket format book. Sometimes i wished i had
>a wife who reenacted this period. They are so charming and beautifull. And
>there are many possibillities for embroidery. I would ruin her, spoil her
>in dresses..
>
>Bjarne

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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:26:40 -0700
Status: RO

>
>
> http://www.psbooks.co.uk/BookDetails.asp?Code=21123&pg=Title+Search+Re
> sults&ur=Title%2Easp%3FTitle%3Dfashion%23Nav21123
>

If anyone is interested, this book (Parisian Fashion La Gazette du Bon Ton
1912-1925, by Alain Weill) is available at

http://www.hamiltonbook.com

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:04:08 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
I have used those books a lot. Mostly because there are many rare
illustrations in it, and there are some old photos of actually garment
putten to models. Particularly there is, as i recall it,  a photo with a
woman wearing a cavalier style dress, 1625-30 wich i have never seen
anywhere else, with a standing collar.
I dont own these books, but i have frequently studyed them at the
library. The library would not allow me to lent the books, because they
are rare.
Congratulations with the catch!

Bjarne


Lavolta Press wrote:

> Does anyone here use Maurice Leloir's _Histoire du costume de
> l'antiquite a 1914_, and if so in what manner?  I just bought volumes
> 8-12 from an antique dealer.
>
> Fran
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr 25 05:10:40 2002
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:59:26 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
Now i uploaded the painting to my pages. It is my favourite picture,
painted by Christian Zartman, a danish painter in 1872. It is a
historical scene lokated at Hirschholm castle, north of Copenhagen. Here
the queen and her lover, Struensee spended their best times together.
The queen got pregnant with Struensee, and she had a daughter called
Louise Augusta. She was never declared illegitimate. The poor queen
suffered a lot because our king was insane. At the picture he is playing
with a large parrot, you cant see, because i had to reduce the picture,
my scanner was not big enough. I particular like the kings costume, this
shining blue silk satin is gorgeous, wish i could get my hands to such a
fabric.
The painter used historical old clotses for his models, but as you can
se, he didnt know that the queens dress is wrong. Ladies always had
their sleaves to the elbows in 18th century, maybe it was because the
dress was two small for the model, but i think that the bodice is wrong
also, it is much two "Victorian", perhaps the dress is not old at all,
but a retro copy of an 18th. century dress.
I love this picture, in spite of the wrongness of the costumes, the mens
costumes looks all right, but i dont think the shoes are right either,
men didnt have that kind of heals on the shoes.
Later it became known to the public about how the kings doctor cheated
with the queen, also because of some political affairs he delt with. He
had a big influence on the politics, because the king let him do
whatever he wanted to, it is Struensee who made the press free in
Denmark.
Well struense lost his head, the queen was put to excile at Halle in
Germany, she died a few years later. Her children stayed in Denmark.

If i could get some of that shining silk satin in such a blue, i would
make another embroidered suit........

Bjarne
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:59:56 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
Now i uploaded the painting to my pages. It is my favourite picture,
painted by Christian Zartman, a danish painter in 1872. It is a
historical scene lokated at Hirschholm castle, north of Copenhagen. Here
the queen and her lover, Struensee spended their best times together.
The queen got pregnant with Struensee, and she had a daughter called
Louise Augusta. She was never declared illegitimate. The poor queen
suffered a lot because our king was insane. At the picture he is playing
with a large parrot, you cant see, because i had to reduce the picture,
my scanner was not big enough. I particular like the kings costume, this
shining blue silk satin is gorgeous, wish i could get my hands to such a
fabric.
The painter used historical old clotses for his models, but as you can
se, he didnt know that the queens dress is wrong. Ladies always had
their sleaves to the elbows in 18th century, maybe it was because the
dress was two small for the model, but i think that the bodice is wrong
also, it is much two "Victorian", perhaps the dress is not old at all,
but a retro copy of an 18th. century dress.
I love this picture, in spite of the wrongness of the costumes, the mens
costumes looks all right, but i dont think the shoes are right either,
men didnt have that kind of heals on the shoes.
Later it became known to the public about how the kings doctor cheated
with the queen, also because of some political affairs he delt with. He
had a big influence on the politics, because the king let him do
whatever he wanted to, it is Struensee who made the press free in
Denmark.
Well struense lost his head, the queen was put to excile at Halle in
Germany, she died a few years later. Her children stayed in Denmark.

If i could get some of that shining silk satin in such a blue, i would
make another embroidered suit........

The picture is here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/zartman1.html

Bjarne
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


_______________________________________________
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] striped fabric?
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:10:45 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Speaking of striped fabrics, what time period would a sorta-pinstriped
> wool fabric be good for? I snagged a whole bunch of it at JoAnns just
> on General Hoarding Principles, but don't know what to use it for. 
> It's fairly heavy (in between a suit-weight and a coat-weight), and
> sage green, with very narrow off-white woven pinstripes in it. --Sue,
> with too much loverly fabric....;-)

I'm not an expert on the period, but I'd use it for an Edwardian 
walking suit.... with some of the panels or details like cuffs and 
lapels etc on the diagonal for decorative effect.



Teddy
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] advice wanted for next projects
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 03:04:21 -0700
Status: RO

I've just been thru all my Charles Dana Gibson from 1890 to 1900.  There 
are zero women servants at evening events, only men.  And there are no 
women in anything resembling livery, unless you count maids' aprons.  So 
there doesn't seem to be a correct thing for me to wear as a female servant 
keeping the buffet supplied at an evening dance.

I'll probably do a parlour maid outfit instead, in a solid colour or dark 
stripe rather than a print.  Gibson's ladies' maids seem to be dressed in 
the current style, altho not as stylishly as their mistresses, but ten 
years of his parlour maids all seem to be wearing the same apron, dress, 
and collar.  I am reliably informed that a front-parlour maid, the one 
guests might see, is the best dressed of the lot.  This would fit exactly 
with all the good advice I have gotten so far.

I'm beginning to think a lace collar and cuffs will be too much if I am 
going to wear that one piece of subtle jewelry.  I'm not sure I want to use 
the antique metal buttons I have 17 of, or the square pinkish-gold 
mother-of-pearl ones I only have 5 of (and fake it under the apron), but I 
don't have enough of anything else but modern black glass ones, and they 
may be too severe, too mourning.  But I am going to have to do perfect 
hand-stitched buttonholes.

Meanwhile, all Gibson's male servants, and waiters in restaurants, are 
wearing about the same as what his male guests are wearing in the 
evening.  I've seen male servants in pseudo-Georgian (in later illos by 
different artists), complete with white wigs.

> > My next few scheduled costumes will be servant-wear from the mid-1800's to
> > the early 1900's.

>In my opinion, ...
>What servants would wear would depend on the situation.  For a formal
>party, where the master and mistress would what to show off their wealth
>the servants would be in the house livery.  The livery could be "simple"
>but made of fine material. The very well off might have have very elaborate
>livery with cords and lace.  Also as the century progress the servant
>livery might be in old fashion style, especially in the conservative
>family.
>
>If the servants were just serving guest during the day the livery would
>probably be functional and in more current style. Again the very wealth may
>have what to our our eyes could be a uniform.
>
>My recommendation would be simple styles of fine fabric.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] favourite portrait
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 03:11:20 -0700
Status: RO


>The painter used historical old clotses for his models, but as you can
>se, he didnt know that the queens dress is wrong. Ladies always had
>their sleaves to the elbows in 18th century, maybe it was because the
>dress was two small for the model, but i think that the bodice is wrong
>also, it is much two "Victorian", perhaps the dress is not old at all,
>but a retro copy of an 18th. century dress.

The Queen's dress does look Victorian.  I don't know where the painter got 
it either.

>I love this picture, in spite of the wrongness of the costumes, the mens
>costumes looks all right, but i dont think the shoes are right either,
>men didnt have that kind of heals on the shoes.

The heels look very 1601.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] advice wanted for next projects
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 22:21:07 +1200
Status: RO

> I'll probably do a parlour maid outfit instead, in a solid colour or dark
> stripe rather than a print.  Gibson's ladies' maids seem to be dressed in
> the current style, altho not as stylishly as their mistresses, but ten
> years of his parlour maids all seem to be wearing the same apron, dress,
> and collar.  I am reliably informed that a front-parlour maid, the one
> guests might see, is the best dressed of the lot.  This would fit exactly
> with all the good advice I have gotten so far.

I saw in a late victorian print a maid wearing a pink outfit, with the usual
white apron cap and cuffs. This was in a book about the victorian household.
I'm not exactly sure where about she was in terms of rank, but I know it was
a public part of the house where she would be seen by guests. She was quite
young too.

Have you ever seen Upstairs Downstairs? It was set in the teens, and showed
all ranks of servants from scullery maid to butler. It replays here quite
frequently, and though looking back on it it screams the years it was
produced, it certainly is a very good source. I can't recall the producers
of the series, but a search of it should bring some info:).

michaela




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr 25 07:41:31 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric and tailors in Thailand?
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:40:19 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

Hello, list! This is not entirely on the topic of historic costume, 
but you guys are the best crowd I know to ask - and hey, at least it 
partly relates to costuming. :) I've checked the archives but couldn't 
find what I'm looking for, so here goes:

I've started planning a trip to Thailand next year, and of course I 
need to increase my fabric stash, and support the local tailoring 
industry. :) Textile museums would be great too, but are not as 
important as actually buying stuff this time around.

My main concern is: where to go? 
I haven't decided which part of the country to go to yet, but my main 
focus for the trip is to get clothes made and buy fabric. Is there any 
region or city that's especially good to go to for these puropses? Does 
anyone have any tips for how to find good tailors (apart from acually 
walking into the shop and looking at their work)? Does anyone have any 
concept of how much one should expect to pay for different types of 
fabric, tailoring services, etc?

Any help would be greatly appreciated - I dream of cool, tailor made 
clothes for normal wear, and heaps of silks and otehr fabric for a 
multitude of historic costumes. :D

Ingrid


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Apr 25 11:04:35 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] wedding suit
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:04:14 +0200
Status: RO


Hello.

Got the pattern for GustavIII's wedding suit today, Jubiiiiiii!!!
It is gorgeous, made on thick paper
Best thing of it all, it is almost my size!!!! Very lucky to be a small
man,
Well there were no details for the embroidery (grrrrrrr) but, i suppose
i would never be able to make that anyway.
Well this is going to be my next project.
Then there is this embroidery pattern from "Art of the Embroiderer" by
Sct. Aubin
I think i  could use this. It will require a lot of spangels, but this
will be a several years project like my old one, and then i think i can
afford it. This time i think i want to use silver, although it tarnish
quicker than gold, but i dont think the spangels would tarnish as
quickly as thread, dont know?
The wedding suit and the embroidery is here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/weddingsuit.html
I have only published the picture for this list, and you know i think
there is a copy right for the picture, so it is in your own risk, if you
use it somewhere.
I will take it down soon again.
It is a gorgeous costume, with full sides, almost a whole sun. Now i
must chase for a really beautifull silk, i want a pale grey one.

Bjarne
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:13:09 -0600
Status: RO

Sorry, Heather, it wasn't on a bolt....it was all wadded up in the
cheapo flatfolds section--probably originally meant to be some sort of
decorator fabric.
--sue, fabric owner

Heather Meadows wrote:
> 
> it would be good for ME!  oh ahem.  I love sage green, it's so hard to find too.
> 
> what was the bolt info? i wonder if I can find it in the bay area...
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:32:21 -0700
Status: RO

At 10:21 PM 04/25/2002 +1200, michaela wrote:
>> I'll probably do a parlour maid outfit instead, in a solid colour or dark
>> stripe rather than a print.  

It's my understanding, mostly gleaned from reading old ettiquette books,
that print dresses were worn by servants in the daytime.  In the late
afternoon and evening, they wore more formal solid dark colors. 

This is for "front of the house" staff.  Kitchen maids and the like, who
would not be seen by the gentry, wore print dresses all the time.  


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:49:29 -0400
Status: RO

I wasn't able to find Bjarne's portrait (probably due to my browser's 
weirdnesses)- could someone post the url of it directly, or give me 
directions? Many thanks...

-Amanda
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 07:47:27 -0700
Status: RO


>I saw in a late Victorian print a maid wearing a pink outfit, with the usual
>white apron cap and cuffs. This was in a book about the Victorian household.
>I'm not exactly sure where about she was in terms of rank, but I know it was
>a public part of the house where she would be seen by guests. She was quite
>young too.

AAAKK!  Pink!  Run away, run away!  I could see dark brown, dark blue, dark 
grey, or black, but not pink on 'an old family servant' like me.

>Have you ever seen Upstairs Downstairs?  It was set in the teens

Both 'Upstairs Downstairs' and 'Gosford Park' show an entire household of 
servants, and their costumes look well researched and totally 
believable.  I look like 'too many potatoes in too small a sack' in those 
two periods, but the costumes are great.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:41:24 -0500
Status: RO

Well guys it looks like my responsibilities for my offices are going 
to be taking up a lot of my time.  So I am going to have to remove 
myself from this list.  It was fun and I learned a lot.  Hope all 
your dreams and aspirations come true.

In Service to the Crowns and the Dream 
(and getting deeper by the minute...HELP!)
Lady Katherine of the Deepwoods
Deputy Kingdom Webminister in Meridies
Deputy Kingdom Bagatelle in Meridies 
Webminister for the Barony of the Osprey
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:57:48 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> This was in a book about the Victorian household... PINK

 How odd. Most of my how-to-run-a-household books of the mid to late Victorian
variety pitch black or grey.  With perfect laundered & pressed white linen
cuffs, collars, aprons all in good repair.  Expecting that you arent desperate
to have this outfit by next PEERS, I'll dig these refs out after the
housepainting, and other renovations.  My early Emily Post (1921) has a whole
section on country houses and household management there.

Fun seeing you on Sat and talk to you soon,

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 08:01:27 -0700
Status: RO



Teddy wrote:

>
>
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.cgi?author=&title=mass+bolsena&
> comment=&time=any&school=any&form=any&type=any&location=
>
> The details that shows the five kneeling men.
>
>

Good choice Teddy, this one always make me dribble....
:-P
Claire

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] advice wanted for next projects
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:38:18 -0700
Status: RO


> >> I'll probably do a parlour maid outfit instead, in a solid colour or dark
> >> stripe rather than a print.
>
>It's my understanding, mostly gleaned from reading old ettiquette books,
>that print dresses were worn by servants in the daytime.  In the late
>afternoon and evening, they wore more formal solid dark colors.
>
>This is for "front of the house" staff.  Kitchen maids and the like, who
>would not be seen by the gentry, wore print dresses all the time.

That surely puts it all together, and that's what Charles Dana Gibson shows 
too.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] advice wanted for next projects
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:10:50 -0700
Status: RO


> > This was in a book about the Victorian household... PINK
>
>  How odd. Most of my how-to-run-a-household books of the mid to late 
> Victorian
>variety pitch black or grey.  With perfect laundered & pressed white linen
>cuffs, collars, aprons all in good repair.  Expecting that you arent desperate
>to have this outfit by next PEERS,

Well, actually, that was my intention.  I may not finish in time...

>I'll dig these refs out after the
>housepainting, and other renovations.  My early Emily Post (1921) has a whole
>section on country houses and household management there.


Kayta
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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] advice wanted for next projects
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:17:28 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

> >  How odd. Most of my how-to-run-a-household books of the mid to late 
> > Victorian
> >variety pitch black or grey.  With perfect laundered & pressed white linen
> >cuffs, collars, aprons all in good repair.  Expecting that you arent
> desperate to have this outfit by next PEERS,
> 
> Well, actually, that was my intention.  I may not finish in time...

Nan so des' ka?  Since the theme is Morgan le Fay, I suppose your victorian-
medieval bonnet should really be a Linen Henin.  


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Head Masks for Dancers
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 18:37:54 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_cd.169cb1c5.29f9df42_boundary
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I need to construct headpieces to look like Ancient Egyptian Gods. I'll 
probably do Anubis, Sekmet and maybe Horus.  I'm thinking of using Fosshape 
or Wonderflex. Does anyone know if there are forms available over which to 
construct such masks?  Wire shapes?  If anyone has any particular expertise 
in making head masks for dancers (lightweight and see through headpieces) I 
would love some feedback, direction, reference material that spells out the 
how-tos, etc.  

This is for Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat.

thanks in advance

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"Nay then, let the devil wear black, 
for I'll have a suit of sables..."
W. Shakespeare

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I need to construct headpieces to look like Ancient Egyptian Gods. I'll probably do Anubis, Sekmet and maybe Horus.&nbsp; I'm thinking of using Fosshape or Wonderflex. Does anyone know if there are forms available over which to construct such masks?&nbsp; Wire shapes?&nbsp; If anyone has any particular expertise in making head masks for dancers (lightweight and see through headpieces) I would love some feedback, direction, reference material that spells out the how-tos, etc.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
This is for Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat.<BR>
<BR>
thanks in advance<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"Nay then, let the devil wear black, <BR>
for I'll have a suit of sables..."<BR>
W. Shakespeare</FONT></HTML>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric and tailors in Thailand?
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:37:59 -0700
Status: RO

At 12:40 PM +0200 4/25/02, Ingrid G. Storrø wrote:
>Hello, list! This is not entirely on the topic of historic costume,
>but you guys are the best crowd I know to ask - and hey, at least it
>partly relates to costuming. :) I've checked the archives but couldn't
>find what I'm looking for, so here goes:
>
>I've started planning a trip to Thailand next year, and of course I
>need to increase my fabric stash, and support the local tailoring
>industry. :) Textile museums would be great too, but are not as
>important as actually buying stuff this time around.
>
>My main concern is: where to go?
>I haven't decided which part of the country to go to yet, but my main
>focus for the trip is to get clothes made and buy fabric. Is there any
>region or city that's especially good to go to for these puropses? Does
>anyone have any tips for how to find good tailors (apart from acually
>walking into the shop and looking at their work)? Does anyone have any
>concept of how much one should expect to pay for different types of
>fabric, tailoring services, etc?

One thing I would suggest -- and I hope this isn't just 
tourist-mentality speaking on my part -- would be to see if you can 
line up a local "shopping assistant" to work with while you're there. 
(Ideally, someone who would think it would be fun to show a visitor 
around to the local resources and help you get the best bargains.) 
Do you know people in Thailand already?  Could they ask around to see 
if they know someone who is familiar with the fabric industry there 
who would know where to get both the best quality and the best 
bargains?  (As well as who to avoid!)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] advice wanted for next projects
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 18:19:40 -0700
Status: RO


> > >  How odd. Most of my how-to-run-a-household books of the mid to late
> > > Victorian
> > >variety pitch black or grey.  With perfect laundered & pressed white linen
> > >cuffs, collars, aprons all in good repair.  Expecting that you arent
> > desperate to have this outfit by next PEERS,
> >
> > Well, actually, that was my intention.  I may not finish in time...
>
>Nan so des' ka?  Since the theme is Morgan le Fay, I suppose your victorian-
>medieval bonnet should really be a Linen Henin.

Nope.  I'm the maid the pre-Raphaelites hired for the evening.


Kayta
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 21:05:42 -0600
Status: RO


Sounds like a job for the f-costume mailing list ...
	(f-costume@indra.com, for fantasy costuming - they talk about
this sort of thing all the time.)

					...eliz

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric and tailors in Thailand?
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 11:16:35 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> One thing I would suggest -- and I hope this isn't just 
> tourist-mentality speaking on my part -- would be to see if you can 
> line up a local "shopping assistant" to work with while you're there. 

Yes, I've thought of that - but all the advice I can find online 
specifically states not to let new-found "friends" or strangers take you 
shopping - as they're often paid commission by shops to bring in 
clients, 
which leads to inflated prices. Now, I suspect that "inflated prices" 
may not necessarily amount to all that much when one considers exchange 
rates and all that - but if I'm going to pay more than "necessary", I'd 
rather the money went to the tailors who do the actual work, than to a 
guide. :)

> Do you know people in Thailand already?

No; that's part of the reason why I decided to ask the list - for all I 
know, someone here may have lived there or someting. :) But thanks for 
the advice, anyway! :)

Ingrid

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 26 08:47:23 2002
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 07:45:13 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. Fran, I have a photocopy of, I guess, Chapters 8 through 10
(1610-1725, roughly). It is an interesting series although, since the
illos are all drawn, with no photos in it of either paintings or existing
clothing, this limits it as a source to me as far as real documentation
goes. My wife can read a smattering of the French, though, so it is
interesting in some places to see what M. Leloir has to say about
clothing of the time. It is a secondary source to me, however, but as
Bjarne says, it has illos I hadn't seen before, and since the drawings
are pretty accurate, I can conjecture from there... Mike T.

Lavolta Press wrote:

> Does anyone here use Maurice Leloir's _Histoire du costume de
> l'antiquite a 1914_, and if so in what manner?

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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric and tailors in Thailand?
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 15:26:43 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


--- Ingrid_G._Storrø <ingridgs@studorg.hiof.no> wrote:
> On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> > One thing I would suggest -- and I hope this isn't just 
> > tourist-mentality speaking on my part -- would be to see if you can 
> > line up a local "shopping assistant" to work with while you're there. 
> 
> Yes, I've thought of that - but all the advice I can find online 
> specifically states not to let new-found "friends" or strangers take you 
> shopping...

I was in Singapore & Malaysia in Nov. Since no one'spitching in, I give you a
tidbit.  Maybe you'll find it useful.

You are definitely correct that it helps to have a real local and a real friend
(not a "new" one).  Since you dont, my advice is to shop around in the US.  If
you've a hankering for some specific type of fabric say, monochrome Shantung,
thai silk (always bi-chromic), Indian Saris from <pick a state> or whatever,
then price them where ever you are now.  If you havent a local source, go
online to the big shops (like Thai Silks) and price those.  Take your carefully
organized swatches & prices with you to South East Asia.

Shop *all* the stores before you buy.  Ask for swatches & price per meter. Get
them to write it on THEIR business card.  Negotiate like crazy.  Never offer a
price. Ask "can you do better than...".  Prepare to spend all day at this.

Be aware thay they all know each other very well.  Price fixing does happen. 
Also, some families own several shops.  You'll never get a good deal if you try
to play family members off against each other.  Just something to think about.

Tailors: I cant really help you.  I have a good friend living in Singapore. We
went to her tailor.  Really, this is the only way to know you wont get a bad
run.  When you have a real local friend help, the tailor knows that a local
person will ruin his business if you are not treated well.  Your friend can
help answer questions and deal with problems that come up after you've left.

have a terrific time and please tell us all about your adventures in the land
of silk and spices!

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Apr 26 20:20:35 2002
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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric and tailors in Thailand?
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 16:19:16 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


I thought of something else... Thailand will probably have brass and copper
braids at real bargain prices.  Sold by the meter in Singapore they were
US$0.80 to US$2 (converting all currencies to US dollars) per meter depending
on the width. For edxample, the 1cm width, in Tokyo about US$8/meter, in SF at
Britex, about $11/yd (so about $12/meter) and i Singapore US$1.20/meter.  It
comes in several different braids; mostly made somewhere in India.
Great stuff. Asian hotels puts this stuff all over hotel staff uniforms from
the senior management to the lowliest bellhop.  It would make trim for on a
lovely Elizabethan, on a terrific Hussar's uniform, on Victorians, on
Regency/Directoire ballgowns.
Caution, you should store it in silvercloth or similar as the metal braid will
dull and darken as it oxidizes. Keep it out of moist environments.

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Apr 28 15:04:58 2002
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 20:35:37 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Saragrace.
You are right about the blue costume, yes it should be a softer drape.
But when i was thinking about Duchesse silk, i ment it for the wedding
suit i am planning.
Its a more formal suit, the year is 1766 and i think Duchesse silk would
be very nice.
Also to embroider on the Duchesse would be lovely.
This suit, i would like to have in a pearl grey colour, so i guess it
would not be that difficult to find.
I use a Visa card, so it is no problem to have it sent for me.
But i think i want to wait a little. Maybe i would be lucky to find
something in London next month when i take a 2days shopping trip there.
Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: [h-cost] silk duchesse
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 20:56:38 +0200
Status: RO

Hi

This one, Duchesse Satin weight 26.50 how would that be for the wedding
suit?
There are no place i can se the colours, does anybody have their
samples?
How is the Steel grey, and the grey? How is the "bisquit" colour?
That is amazing prices, i would never get this price in Denmark, usually
much more expensive.

Thanks for your help Saragrace!

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Duchesse silk
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 14:08:42 -0600
Status: RO

Hey, Bjarne...what're you shopping for in London? I'm sure it's just
full of nifty stuff to buy....any recommendations for embroidery, lace,
costume supplies? I'll be there in late August/early September (my first
trip overseas <huge grin>....I'm getting really excited).
--sue, who should be sewing and making lace, instead of poking about on
the computer, but what the heck, it's sunday afternoon...;-)

Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Dear Saragrace.
> You are right about the blue costume, yes it should be a softer drape.
> But when i was thinking about Duchesse silk, i ment it for the wedding
> suit i am planning.
> Its a more formal suit, the year is 1766 and i think Duchesse silk would
> be very nice.
> Also to embroider on the Duchesse would be lovely.
> This suit, i would like to have in a pearl grey colour, so i guess it
> would not be that difficult to find.
> I use a Visa card, so it is no problem to have it sent for me.
> But i think i want to wait a little. Maybe i would be lucky to find
> something in London next month when i take a 2days shopping trip there.
> Bjarne
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: slashing and pinking(WAS:Re: Favorite Costume
 Portrait-Teddy's)
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 15:47:40 -0700
Status: RO


><< Now you make me wonder if the fraycheck slashing will hold up to
>  washing.  I did it on some cotton velvet, one layer, dried completely
>  and then another.  Then I slashed it.  If you don't touch it, you'd
>  never know it was there. >>
>
>Sometimes that holds.  Just check on it every few washings/wearings and add
>more Fraycheck if needed.  I also strongly recommend making a small stitch at
>both ends of every slash, to keep the fabric from continuing the rip.  You
>can even make the stitch an embellishment by sewing it through a small bead,
>filagree, or small decorative button.  Long slashes can also be both
>strengthened and embellished by appliqueing a small triangle of leather at
>each end.
>
>Anyone else got things to add?

Slash on the bias whenever possible.  That way there are no long threads to 
come out, and the edges frizz up nicely after washing.


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: silk charmeuse(WAS:favourite portrait-Bjarne's fabric)
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 22:01:06 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 4/28/02 2:18:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< You might think i am an ignorant, but i dont know what silk charmeuse is!
 Could you tell me a little about this!
 I would like something like satin weaved silk. >>

Bjarne,

Charmeuse has a very shiney satin surface, but is not nearly as stiff as 
satin.  It drapes beautifully and just glides along your fingertips.  I have 
to agree that this is what that blue in the pic looks like.  Imitation 
charmeuses can be found at places like Jo-Ann's, and that blue is a common 
prom color.  For real silk, I'm not sure where to get it in that color, but 
you can try Thai Silks,

http://www.thaisilks.com/

Anjooran Silks, or dye your own from the Silk Connection.  For more info and 
a possible place to order, see the website below:

http://www.srfabrics.com/silks/charmeuse.htm

Duchess satin is a low-lustre satin, so it won't give you that high shine 
from the pic.

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: This one's good too
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 22:12:04 EDT
Status: RO

Jennifer,

<< http://www.marquise.de/1800/pics/1859_2.shtml >>

Ooh!  Are you doing the ivy, too?  It's not even close to my time period, but 
what a luscious gown!  I'd join a reenactment group just to have an excuse to 
make that...

--Gillian the Elizabethan
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Apr 28 22:34:21 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: This one's good too
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 19:21:10 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

there's a different reason to join reenactment groups?
I had no idea!

.heather.

> Jennifer,
> 
> << http://www.marquise.de/1800/pics/1859_2.shtml >>
> 
> Ooh!  Are you doing the ivy, too?  It's not even close to my time period, but 
> what a luscious gown!  I'd join a reenactment group just to have an excuse to 
> make that...
> 
> --Gillian the Elizabethan
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 29 02:23:13 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] the level of costuming
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:08:08 -0700
Status: RO

Yesterday I went to my first SCA event in several years.  I think my 
14-year-old was one or two when I stopped being a regular 
attendee.  Anyway, I couldn't help noticing the general level of costuming, 
compared to what it was when I was a regular, and compared to what it was 
when I joined.

When I joined, in 1971, I did a German Ren. dress from a Durer drawing, and 
I had to figure out the whole thing on my own.  About the time I dropped 
out, this period was beginning to get popular.  Now many people do them 
(even at Ren. Faire), much better than my first one, and lots of research 
has been published on how to do them and what they should correctly look 
like, making the process much easier than when I did my first one.  I've 
even seen books with colour photos of surviving real German garments from 
this period, complete with close-ups of details, notes on the cloth and 
construction, and patterns taken directly from them.

Anyway, yesterday I saw quite a high level of costuming, in many periods, 
done by people that I know joined after I dropped out, as well as by people 
I remembered from before I did.  This made me have to stop and think about 
a number of things.

My standards of authenticity and craftsmanship haven't gotten any lower 
than when people thought I was one of the better costumers around.  But it 
seems that the high-end of the standard has risen while I wasn't looking, 
and there are many people at least as good now as I ever was, based just on 
the attendees of a 75-person teaching event.  (My ego suffered quite a blow 
when I realized that one.)

Someone was pattern-knitting a silk glove only about twice the gage of a 
t-shirt - nobody in the SCA knitted period stuff in 1971.  Somebody was 
teaching an improv class in shoemaking by period methods - almost nobody 
but me made their own SCA shoes in 1971.  Several people were wearing 
t-tunics which were cut correctly and trimmed with handwork, most of which 
was at least nominally contemporary with their cut - un-decorated t-tunics 
with modern set-in sleeves were all most people had in 1971.  Many people, 
men included, were wearing head-gear to match their costumes - almost 
nobody wore anything but straw sun hats in 1971.

I always used to say I would teach anything I knew to any SCA member, and 
if they got better than me I would take their class.  Yesterday I realized 
how many people have gotten better than I am at a lot of things I 
considered myself good at (I never taught any of the instructors at 
yesterday's classes - they all joined after I dropped out), so I guess it's 
time I availed myself of some of their classes, books, research, etc.  I'm 
not old enough to feel as old as I do right now.  But my next costume will 
be as good as theirs are.

Kayta
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Fabric and tailors in Thailand?
From: "ruiyin" <ruiyin@ivillage.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric and tailors in Thailand?
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I've never been to Thailand either, but I have done a lot of fabric
shopping in several other Asian countries. My rule of thumb is always
look for the shops crowded with local customers, not only because they
are supposedly the most popular ones but also because you can usually
tell by the behavior of other customers if you're being cheated. Try to
get an idea what the others are paying, although the problem might be
that only tourists buy expensive silks while all the locals buy cheap
polyester stuff. Anyway, I think the price is not the biggest issue, as
you can always bargain until you're happy with it. It's much more
difficult to know if the material is what it is supposed to be. Be very
careful, whether you want to buy silk or just plain cotton.

I seem to remember that I friend of mine paid around 4 euros/metre (or
yard?) for a very fine quality thick thai silk a few years ago. He had
local friends (real ones, ex-class mates) but it doen't mean thet you
couldn't find the stuff even cheaper.

South East Asia is a very good place to stock up trims, buttons, hooks
and eyes etc. I love the tiny round brass buttons, I always buy a whole
package when I'm in palces where I can find them.

For fabrics, I believe bazaar-type of places will be the best (it's also
easy to compare prices if you have all the shops there in a row), but
for finding a tailor it might be a good idea to ask at the hotel, unless
you're staying at a five star one. It will be relatively cheap anyway,
and if it's quality you want it's not worth the time and the few pennies
you might save to look for the cheapest deal. In general, I never
understood the people who run back and forth and lose their nerves just
because they don't want to spend a single extra penny on anything, and
get totally depressed if they find out they've been paying too much. You
can always think that you are supporting the locals...

Happy shopping!

Riina
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<BR>I've never been to Thailand either, but I have done a lot of fabric shopping in several other Asian countries. My rule of thumb is always look for the shops crowded with local customers, not only because they are supposedly the most popular ones but also because you can usually tell by the behavior of other customers if you're being cheated. Try to get an idea what the others are paying, although the problem might be that only tourists buy expensive silks while all the locals buy cheap polyester stuff. Anyway, I think the price is not the biggest issue, as you can always bargain until you're happy with it. It's much more difficult to know if the material is what it is supposed to be. Be very careful, whether you want to buy silk or just plain cotton.<BR><BR>I seem to remember that I friend of mine paid around 4 euros/metre (or yard?) for a very fine quality thick thai silk a few years ago. He had local friends (real ones, ex-class mates) but it doen't mean thet you could!
n't find the stuff even cheaper.<BR><BR>South East Asia is a very good place to stock up trims, buttons, hooks and eyes etc. I love the tiny round brass buttons, I always buy a whole package when I'm in palces where I can find them.<BR><BR>For fabrics, I believe bazaar-type of places will be the best (it's also easy to compare prices if you have all the shops there in a row), but for finding a tailor it might be a good idea to ask at the hotel, unless you're staying at a five star one. It will be relatively cheap anyway, and if it's quality you want it's not worth the time and the few pennies you might save to look for the cheapest deal. In general, I never understood the people who run back and forth and lose their nerves just because they don't want to spend a single extra penny on anything, and get totally depressed if they find out they've been paying too much. You can always think that you are supporting the locals...<BR><BR>Happy shopping!<BR><BR>Riina<BR><font face="A!
rial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px!
">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and sex, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: This one's good too
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 01:04:23 -0700
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I'm not sure what I'll do for finishing touches.  The fabric has roses on it 
so I may end up with some nice self fabric flowers arranged with velvet 
greenery.  I'm still not sure.  By the time it's all done I'm sure it will 
have evolved several more steps.  I've been stashing pieces for almost three 
years now.

Jennifer

>
><< http://www.marquise.de/1800/pics/1859_2.shtml >>
>
>Ooh!  Are you doing the ivy, too?  It's not even close to my time period, 
>but
>what a luscious gown!  I'd join a reenactment group just to have an excuse 
>to
>make that...
>
>--Gillian the Elizabethan
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 01:09:20 -0700
Status: RO

I actually only play in the SCA, but I can't help making things from all 
over time and space.  This one may get worn once, but I have no idea where.  
I don't dare wear big hoops to a modern restaurant or anything.  The modern 
USA is not designed for flambouyantly big skirts!!  Maybe it's time for 
another wedding?  OH, no, My husband says next time he wants a proxy 
wedding.  I still cry at the video of the last one.


>From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: This one's good too
>Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 19:21:10 -0700 (PDT)
>
>there's a different reason to join reenactment groups?
>I had no idea!
>
>.heather.
>
>I'd join a reenactment group just to have an excuse to
> > make that...
> >
> > --Gillian the Elizabethan


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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:21:24 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Sue.
Well it is just a cheap trip i boaght trough my newspaper. Going there and
home again next day for only about 60 dollars.
I am going to Dillons bookstore at Oxford street, books are very cheap
compared to danish prices. Then i was hoping there would be a super fabric
store there. Usually i also go to Ells & Ferrier in Beek Street. They have a
lot of pearls and sequins and stuff, i go bersurk when i see all their things.
Perhaps they have some of those oval spangels i am looking for. Then i am
going to London Museum, i never was there before..........
It is my 5th trip to London.
There is a needlework shop in Oxford Street. I baught silk thread for lace
there on large reels there last time, very cheap and i have thread for yards
and yards of lace.
I think it was some leftover thread they had from industry in some way. I can
find the adress if you want it.

Bjarne

Bjarne

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Hey, Bjarne...what're you shopping for in London? I'm sure it's just
> full of nifty stuff to buy....any recommendations for embroidery, lace,
> costume supplies? I'll be there in late August/early September (my first
> trip overseas <huge grin>....I'm getting really excited).
> --sue, who should be sewing and making lace, instead of poking about on
> the computer, but what the heck, it's sunday afternoon...;-)
>
> Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > Dear Saragrace.
> > You are right about the blue costume, yes it should be a softer drape.
> > But when i was thinking about Duchesse silk, i ment it for the wedding
> > suit i am planning.
> > Its a more formal suit, the year is 1766 and i think Duchesse silk would
> > be very nice.
> > Also to embroider on the Duchesse would be lovely.
> > This suit, i would like to have in a pearl grey colour, so i guess it
> > would not be that difficult to find.
> > I use a Visa card, so it is no problem to have it sent for me.
> > But i think i want to wait a little. Maybe i would be lucky to find
> > something in London next month when i take a 2days shopping trip there.
> > Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Bjarne's trip was Re: [h-cost] Duchesse silk
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 04:01:04 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne,

If you do find any of those oval spangles, please let us know!  I've been 
looking for them for ages for my bobbin lace and will hopefully be getting 
back to England in January.  Oh and do share the information on places you 
find good stuff like that silk for your lace...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:21 AM 4/29/2002 +0200, you wrote:
>Dear Sue.
>Well it is just a cheap trip i boaght trough my newspaper. Going there and
>home again next day for only about 60 dollars.
>I am going to Dillons bookstore at Oxford street, books are very cheap
>compared to danish prices. Then i was hoping there would be a super fabric
>store there. Usually i also go to Ells & Ferrier in Beek Street. They have a
>lot of pearls and sequins and stuff, i go bersurk when i see all their things.
>Perhaps they have some of those oval spangels i am looking for. Then i am
>going to London Museum, i never was there before..........
>It is my 5th trip to London.
>There is a needlework shop in Oxford Street. I baught silk thread for lace
>there on large reels there last time, very cheap and i have thread for yards
>and yards of lace.
>I think it was some leftover thread they had from industry in some way. I can
>find the adress if you want it.
>
>Bjarne

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Thread-Topic: Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:17:43 -0700
Status: RO

Hello everyone,

I'm currently researching 14th century Italian clothing (right now focusing on Florence 1365).  And I've run into something that I'm hoping someone on this list has some ideas about or experience with.

I've been noticing is that many of the dresses in the paintings of this period show some kind of trim/embroidery/couching around the neckline and the wrists of the dress.  The frescoes in the Santa Maria Novella - The Church Militant and Triumphant by Andrea Da Firenze and Last Judgment by Nardo Di Cione - both show multiple examples of this.  You can see pictures of the frescos at on-line http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/a/andrea/firenze/index.html and http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/n/nardo/index.html.

Now I'm trying to determine which it is - trim or embroidery or couching?  

My first thought is that it probably is not embroidery because it is gold colored and from what I have read, gold threads were couched, not embroidered, so that the gold would not come off the thread and the thread would not damage the garment.  Anyone else out there have a take on this?  

If it is trim, what would the trim have been made of to have the gold threads?  Some kind of cloth of gold?  If is it trim, how are they getting it around the necklines without puckering on the corners?

I'd love to hear any ideas or suggestions on this.

Thanks!

Colleen
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 29 15:17:44 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:20:04 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 29 Apr 2002, Colleen McDonald wrote:

> My first thought is that it probably is not embroidery because it is
> gold colored and from what I have read, gold threads were couched, not
> embroidered, so that the gold would not come off the thread and the
> thread would not damage the garment.  Anyone else out there have a
> take on this?

That's my understanding too, though couching would be considered a form of
embroidery.

> If it is trim, what would the trim have been made of to have the gold
> threads?  Some kind of cloth of gold? 

It sounds to me like a good candidate for your mystery trim would be
brocaded tabletwoven bands, which often incorporated gold threads. You
might want to contact Nancy Spies, who has done a tremendous lot of
research on the history of these bands and came out with a book about them
last year. She reads this list sometimes. When she spoke about this topic
at the Medieval Congress at Kalamazoo last year, she showed images of
medieval depictions of clothing with bands in various places and indicated
certain elements of the patterning that suggested they may have been
brocaded tabletwoven bands. She also can tell you about evidence for such
bands being used in a broad range of times and places, based not only on
pictures but also on written documents and extant artifacts (e.g.
preserved church vestments, grave finds, etc.). She might have a better
clue about what was done in 14th c. Italy and in the images you found.

> If is it trim, how are they getting it around the necklines without
> puckering on the corners?

IME, handmade bands are a lot more flexible than store-bought trim today.
I didn't look at the images you cited, so I don't know if you're dealing
with very wide bands (which could pose more of a problem), but it's also
possible to create a wider banded area by putting rows of bands.

Also, bear in mind that 14th c. Italian art may well be giving you an
impression of the general effect, but not necessarily good detail on the
band patterns themselves -- e.g. it may show one row where there were
several in life.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:52:42 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I'm not certain which I would use-embroidery, trim or
applied bands--likely it would depend upon my time and
the use of the outfit.

What is amusing is in "The Church Militant" details,
is an outfit which appears to have an overgown ending
near the mid-calf, like the 3/4 length gowns so
prevalent and beloved by SCAdians.  It's a white with
gold bands over a red kirtle--with her apparently
holding onto a child trying to pull away.

Angharat

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:58:16 -0400
Status: RO

Where would this picture be located? I'd love to see it!

Alisone
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wolfcat Hall" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?


> I'm not certain which I would use-embroidery, trim or
> applied bands--likely it would depend upon my time and
> the use of the outfit.
> 
> What is amusing is in "The Church Militant" details,
> is an outfit which appears to have an overgown ending
> near the mid-calf, like the 3/4 length gowns so
> prevalent and beloved by SCAdians.  It's a white with
> gold bands over a red kirtle--with her apparently
> holding onto a child trying to pull away.
> 
> Angharat
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:03:50 -0700
Status: RO

Try http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/a/andrea/firenze/index.html .

I cited it in my original post.

Best regards,

Colleen

-----Original Message-----
From: Dianne and Greg Stucki [mailto:goofy1@suscom.net]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 12:58 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?


Where would this picture be located? I'd love to see it!

Alisone
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wolfcat Hall" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?


> I'm not certain which I would use-embroidery, trim or
> applied bands--likely it would depend upon my time and
> the use of the outfit.
> 
> What is amusing is in "The Church Militant" details,
> is an outfit which appears to have an overgown ending
> near the mid-calf, like the 3/4 length gowns so
> prevalent and beloved by SCAdians.  It's a white with
> gold bands over a red kirtle--with her apparently
> holding onto a child trying to pull away.
> 
> Angharat
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:55:24 -0400
Status: RO

Several years ago I bought a book from Nancy Spies about tablet weaving,
mainly because in it were examples of making 90' corners with tablet
weaving.  It lays perfectly smooth, with no folded over corners.  Before
anyone gets excited and asks me questions, no I haven't ever tried it!
;o> Unfortunately, the book is in German, which I don't read, so I only
look at the pictures and do some simple e-translations when necessary.
Tablet weaving for me got put on the back burner for several years, but
it's looking pretty good so far this year that I'll finally get into it.


On a related note, I just heard that Peter Collingwood's book on tablet
weaving has been republished by Robin and Russ Handweavers.  It's
supposed to be THE book to have, so it's good that it's available again.

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 Robin Netherton
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?


On Mon, 29 Apr 2002, Colleen McDonald wrote:

> My first thought is that it probably is not embroidery because it is
> gold colored and from what I have read, gold threads were couched, not
> embroidered, so that the gold would not come off the thread and the
> thread would not damage the garment.  Anyone else out there have a
> take on this?

That's my understanding too, though couching would be considered a form
of
embroidery.

> If it is trim, what would the trim have been made of to have the gold
> threads?  Some kind of cloth of gold? 

It sounds to me like a good candidate for your mystery trim would be
brocaded tabletwoven bands, which often incorporated gold threads. You
might want to contact Nancy Spies, who has done a tremendous lot of
research on the history of these bands and came out with a book about
them
last year. She reads this list sometimes. When she spoke about this
topic
at the Medieval Congress at Kalamazoo last year, she showed images of
medieval depictions of clothing with bands in various places and
indicated
certain elements of the patterning that suggested they may have been
brocaded tabletwoven bands. She also can tell you about evidence for
such
bands being used in a broad range of times and places, based not only on
pictures but also on written documents and extant artifacts (e.g.
preserved church vestments, grave finds, etc.). She might have a better
clue about what was done in 14th c. Italy and in the images you found.

> If is it trim, how are they getting it around the necklines without
> puckering on the corners?

IME, handmade bands are a lot more flexible than store-bought trim
today.
I didn't look at the images you cited, so I don't know if you're dealing
with very wide bands (which could pose more of a problem), but it's also
possible to create a wider banded area by putting rows of bands.

Also, bear in mind that 14th c. Italian art may well be giving you an
impression of the general effect, but not necessarily good detail on the
band patterns themselves -- e.g. it may show one row where there were
several in life.

--Robin




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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:43:11 -0500
Status: RO

I think she means which one of the three is it. :)

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Steppes, Ansteorra
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?


> Try http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/a/andrea/firenze/index.html .
>
> I cited it in my original post.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Colleen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dianne and Greg Stucki [mailto:goofy1@suscom.net]
> Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 12:58 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?
>
>
> Where would this picture be located? I'd love to see it!
>
> Alisone
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wolfcat Hall" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 3:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?
>
>
> > I'm not certain which I would use-embroidery, trim or
> > applied bands--likely it would depend upon my time and
> > the use of the outfit.
> >
> > What is amusing is in "The Church Militant" details,
> > is an outfit which appears to have an overgown ending
> > near the mid-calf, like the 3/4 length gowns so
> > prevalent and beloved by SCAdians.  It's a white with
> > gold bands over a red kirtle--with her apparently
> > holding onto a child trying to pull away.
> >
> > Angharat
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> > http://health.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:14:32 -0700
Status: RO

<<Several years ago I bought a book from Nancy Spies about tablet weaving,
mainly because in it were examples of making 90' corners with tablet
weaving.  It lays perfectly smooth, with no folded over corners.  Before
anyone gets excited and asks me questions, no I haven't ever tried it!
;o> Unfortunately, the book is in German, which I don't read, so I only
look at the pictures and do some simple e-translations when necessary.>>

Linda, 

Can you give me the title and author?  That way, I can start searching for it via ILL.

Thanks!

Colleen
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 07:48:06 -0700
Status: RO



Wolfcat Hall wrote:

> I'm not certain which I would use-embroidery, trim or
> applied bands--likely it would depend upon my time and
> the use of the outfit.
>
> What is amusing is in "The Church Militant" details,
> is an outfit which appears to have an overgown ending
> near the mid-calf, like the 3/4 length gowns so
> prevalent and beloved by SCAdians.  It's a white with
> gold bands over a red kirtle--with her apparently
> holding onto a child trying to pull away.
>

Hmmm, well this is an allegorical painting....:-P
Actually given that there's a woman in the same section of the painting
dressed as an
'Amazon' I would hesitate to give creedance to this particular instance
of a 3/4
length gown. On the other hand, I don't think I have ever disputed the
existence of
such creatures, but in the right time and place. 3/4 lenght surcoats
seem to be
far more common in the 14th century and in Italy than in 11th/12th
century
France and England when everyone seems to want to wear them.

Claire

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:00:32 -0500
Status: RO

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Heyo,

Just a quick note to let you know that I finally updated My website. =
Life really has been crazy around here the past 6 months and is finally =
calming down.=20


Jennene Stanley
***********************************************************************
"Chase the light I see ahead. Luminate the path I tread.
 I live to be the best I can"                       - Queensr=FFche
***********************************************************************
"Mooharpist"    send e-mail to : Mooharpist@mmcable.com
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Just a quick note to let you know that =
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months and is finally calming down. </FONT></DIV>
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:43:52 -0400
Status: RO

Sure Colleen!

The name of the book is "Brettchenweben", 
written by Marga and Heribert Joliet-Van Den Berg.
ISBN: 3-258-02388-3
My copy was printed in 1975 in Switzerland.

It also shows a method of splitting the band lengthwise, to accommodate
a boat-neck type opening.  There are also a couple of pictures of
rounded bands, for round necklines. It's a cool book, I just wish I
could read it!

Have fun!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Colleen McDonald
 

Can you give me the title and author?  That way, I can start searching
for it via ILL.




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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:32:37 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. I know this isn't a subject that is looked upon favourably on this
list, but if looked at overall as the improvement that has occurred in one
organization, I am glad to hear this report. Being that this organization's
stated goal is education, perhaps something good is happening! Katya, I
couldn't be more pleased, especially as I believe you have a good eye for these
things, as evidenced by work that I have seen you do. I hope that all of those
folks on this list that have influence in that one group can feel some sense of
accomplishment, knowing that there is a rise in at least a portion of the
quality of education in an organization that has had it's share of criticism in
the past... Mike T.


> I always used to say I would teach anything I knew to any SCA member, and
> if they got better than me I would take their class.  Yesterday I realized
> how many people have gotten better than I am at a lot of things I
> considered myself good at (I never taught any of the instructors at
> yesterday's classes - they all joined after I dropped out), so I guess it's
> time I availed myself of some of their classes, books, research, etc.  I'm
> not old enough to feel as old as I do right now.  But my next costume will
> be as good as theirs are.
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Apr 29 23:42:40 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the level of costuming
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:26:40 -0700
Status: RO

I'm sure groups like this have had much beneficial influence on the SCA and 
other groups I don't have time to visit.  So has the Internet generally.

Books like those by Janet Arnold, Nora Waugh, and Nancy Bradfield weren't 
available to me when I first got interested in historical costuming.  I had 
to improvise everything, and figure it out for myself, using only the 
pictures of what I wanted to make.  It was that way with the SCA in the 
early years, and can't have been any easier for any other history-based 
group.  But then, the SCA, and many re-enactment groups, were recent when I 
joined the SCA.

Now there is a demand for more historical accuracy, in many centuries.  Now 
many people are doing research on how historical garments were really made, 
making patterns from them, and publishing books on their findings.  Now 
there is the Internet, with discussion groups like h-costume, web sites of 
museums we can't otherwise get to, and tons more research reports available 
to read.

Saturday I was struck by how far one group had come.  It was joyful and 
humbling at the same time.  I chose to be inspired.  As I said, my next 
costume will be better.  And I know just the url to start with...

>Hi, All. I know this isn't a subject that is looked upon favourably on this
>list, but if looked at overall as the improvement that has occurred in one
>organization, I am glad to hear this report. Being that this organization's
>stated goal is education, perhaps something good is happening! Katya, I
>couldn't be more pleased, especially as I believe you have a good eye for 
>these
>things, as evidenced by work that I have seen you do. I hope that all of those
>folks on this list that have influence in that one group can feel some 
>sense of
>accomplishment, knowing that there is a rise in at least a portion of the
>quality of education in an organization that has had it's share of 
>criticism in
>the past... Mike T.
>
>
> > I always used to say I would teach anything I knew to any SCA member, and
> > if they got better than me I would take their class.  Yesterday I realized
> > how many people have gotten better than I am at a lot of things I
> > considered myself good at (I never taught any of the instructors at
> > yesterday's classes - they all joined after I dropped out), so I guess it's
> > time I availed myself of some of their classes, books, research, etc.  I'm
> > not old enough to feel as old as I do right now.  But my next costume will
> > be as good as theirs are.
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:55:30 -0600
Status: RO

My guess, is that it could very well be both a brocaded "trim" or band
on the one hand, and some sort of couching on the other.  Depends on the
garment, placement, time period, etc., etc.  It is possible to embroider
with metal threads (there are a number of examples in 16th c.
portraiture, for example), but given the cost of the materials, the gold
bits on the clothing could be either.  I'd need to know which fresco(s),
specifically, you were looking at. 
One of my very first ItalianRen outfits (and one of my better ones,
oddly enough) had a *lot* of couched gold cord all around the
bodice/neck opening, and down both edges of the split sleeves, and
around the cuff areas.  I was basing it on the couched design found on
the neckline of the gown worn by da Vinci's Mona Lisa.  Only years
later, did I find out (better reproduction of the painting) that the
lines on her gown are not rounded (as I'd thought, and reproduced <g>),
but quite angular.  My guess, now, is that instead of being a narrow,
flexible cord, the design was done using gold or silver-gilt "purl,"
which looks like a very tiny (bead-sized) slinky, made from gold wire. 
Now granted, the Mona Lisa is a bit later than your examples, but check
it out for an example of something clearly not *trim.*
--Sue, who's tried a bit of precious metal embroidery, and was really
suprised at how *long* it takes to do.....


Colleen McDonald wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I'm currently researching 14th century Italian clothing (right now focusing on Florence 1365).  And I've run into something that I'm hoping someone on this list has some ideas about or experience with.
> 
> I've been noticing is that many of the dresses in the paintings of this period show some kind of trim/embroidery/couching around the neckline and the wrists of the dress.  The frescoes in the Santa Maria Novella - The Church Militant and Triumphant by Andrea Da Firenze and Last Judgment by Nardo Di Cione - both show multiple examples of this.  You can see pictures of the frescos at on-line http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/a/andrea/firenze/index.html and http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/n/nardo/index.html.
> 
> Now I'm trying to determine which it is - trim or embroidery or couching?
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:56:48 -0600
Status: RO

It could very well meant to be more allegorical than representational,
given that the frescoes are religious in theme.....
--sue

Wolfcat Hall wrote:
> 
> I'm not certain which I would use-embroidery, trim or
> applied bands--likely it would depend upon my time and
> the use of the outfit.
> 
> What is amusing is in "The Church Militant" details,
> is an outfit which appears to have an overgown ending
> near the mid-calf, like the 3/4 length gowns so
> prevalent and beloved by SCAdians.  It's a white with
> gold bands over a red kirtle--with her apparently
> holding onto a child trying to pull away.
> 
> Angharat
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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] sewing machines reclassified
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 02:41:45 -0500
Status: RO

This is probably old news to some of you.  I was browsing through old
issues of Piecework magazine and found this in an article from Jan/Feb
2000:

"In 1998, the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics moved sewing machines from
the Apparel and Upkeep category of consumer spending to the Recreation
category, arguing that few people make or mend their clothes anymore."

--Charlene

-- 
When aiming for the common denominator, be prepared for the occasional
division by zero.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] The 70s are now historic!
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 16:41:00 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


There's an entertaining story in today's St. Louis Post-Dispatch about the
costume design for the new Broadway version of "Saturday Night Fever."
Apparently a show set in the disco era is now officially a period piece.
(I probably have some clothes from this era in my closet, but alas, I
never went in for the classic disco look, so they're never be worth
anything.)

The article has a horrendous URL that I couldn't reproduce here, but you
can find it by going to http://www.stltoday.com. If you check it out
today, choose "Entertainment" from the main page and then "Entertainment
News" to get you to today's Post-Dispatch articles. If you check in the
next two weeks, you can view the article by searching on its title: "A
"fever" pitch," by Dawne Massey.

A couple of paragraphs I found particularly amusing:

-------quote-------
Luckily the cast was treated to "kinder, gentler" disco clothing than
most of us remember. They don't have to endure the truly creepy feel
of 100 percent polyester while they're sweatin' to the oldies on the
dance floor. Benzinger used wool instead, which made it easier on the
dancers as well as those charged with keeping the costumes wearable
throughout the show's run. Costumes get sent to the dry cleaners about
three times a week when a play tours.
   "Polyesters, when they're dry cleaned 10 or 11 times, get really stiff
and horrible, so we had to get real expensive satin-finish wools," she
said. "They appear like polyester because they've got the same sheen,
but they move nicer than polyester, and they dry clean."
--------end quote--------

I find it delicious that the designer, seeking a substitute for polyester,
chose wool -- given that polyester is often used as a wool substitute in
the first place! But in this case, the *polyester* is the period fabric.

--Robin

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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] FW:FABRIC.COM:Smokin Deals ...Cotton Velveteen, Silk Jacquards
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 13:44:25 -0700
Status: RO

Thought I would share this.  I ordered a buttload of this stuff last
fall.  It is wonderful quality, and washes up very well.

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Friedman [mailto:list@fabric.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 11:32 AM
To: saragrace@earthlink.net
Subject: FABRIC.COM: A Mother's Day Gift,Cotton Velveteen, Silk
Jacquards


Good Morning and Happy Tuesday! I hope this note finds you well.

With
Mother's Day just around the corner, we have been talking about how we
could do something really nice and special for all of you to let you
know how much we are thinking of you and appreciate you on that special
day. What I really want to do is send each and every one of you a lovely
flower arrangement. Unfortunately, it is not really feasible to send out
60,000+ flower arrangements. I really do want you to have some flowers
from us, so what we will be doing is putting a package of flower seeds
in all the orders that we receive. We hope you will plant them and, as
they blossom, enjoy them and know that we are thinking of you fondly.
Our 20% OFF "RED ASTERISK" sale continues through this Friday, May 3,
2002. There has been a little bit of confusion, for which I apologize.
The only items on sale are those INDIVIDUAL fabrics or notions that have
the red asterisk, NOT an entire section that has a red asterisk.
Just arrived at http://www.fabric.com   www.fabric.com

1)100% Cotton
Velveteen: We just added 20 colors of cotton velveteen. This is a super-
high quality form the same mill we had last fall. Please see these at
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/cottonvelvet.html

2)SILK
JACQUARDS- this is a lovely blouse weight 100% silk jacquard that is a
cross-dye of 2 colors of silk, giving it an iridescent look.
Unfortunately, quantities in this group are extremely limited, so act
quickly if you are interested. These silks can be found at
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/siljaccros.html

3)100% LINEN-
3 colors on sale- We got an unbelievable deal on 3 colors of our light-
weight 100% linen (red, curry and desert). We added them in both the
regular linen section, but also put them in the BARGAIN CORNER, because
we are passing our great buy along to you. These 3 colors only are going
for $3.35 yd. (Does anybody else sell 100% linen at that price!?!) See
them at  http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/prompriclin.html

Have
a great day and enjoy the flower seeds with our best wishes. Warmest
regards, Stephen If you are happy with our fabrics and our service,
please tell your friends; If you are not happy, please tell me.


TO BE REMOVED from this list, click on the following link:
http://www.fabric.com/cgi-local/remove_me.cgi?address=saragrace@earthlin
k.net

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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Another good costume museum website...
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 21:03:21 -0700
Status: RO

The Bowes Museum in England:
http://www.bowesmuseum.org.uk/index.html

Check out the following links:

- Collections (go to Textiles for a searchable database of images -- many
costume images, including some great shoes!)
- What's on (online exhibitions, including one on costume jewelry, and
another on hats created for/worn by the Queen Mum and Princess Margaret)

- Kendra



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