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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another good costume museum website...
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 05:15:35 -0300
Status: RO

Kendra, thank you for the museum site.  I always wander through on-line
museums while I eat my morning Wheaties. The Bowes is a fun discovery. I
thought the garments in the textiles area were very vaguely dated
(Victorian, for example.)  Did I miss more text somewhere?

Martha


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  1 09:21:11 2002
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Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 14:59:04 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Kendra
Thanks for the link to the museum. Now i know what i am going to do,
from time to time.
Look at this beautifull sewing box i found:
http://www.bowesmuseum.org.uk/collections/image.php3?Name=Needlework+Box&image=1987-2-1-emb-2-50.jpg

I also found an embroidered mans suit.

Bjarne


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  1 10:51:15 2002
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bowesmuseum
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 07:36:32 -0700
Status: RO

Bjarne, that needlwork box is AMAZING!  Wow!

Martha, I had the same thought as you re: dating -- all of the periods are
simply listed as monarchs.  "Victoria" doesn't help much, given that it
covers more than 60 years!  I couldn't find any further info...

- Kendra


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  1 11:33:56 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bowesmuseum
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Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 16:18:39 +0100
Status: RO

This looks like early 17th century stumpwork. I've not seen this one, but have seen others in museums, and I adore them. I'd love to try doing some stumpwork myself; not a whole box, but perhaps a small mirror frame which I could use for indoor reenactments.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk 05/01/02 01:59pm >>>
Dear Kendra
Thanks for the link to the museum. Now i know what i am going to do,
from time to time.
Look at this beautifull sewing box i found:
http://www.bowesmuseum.org.uk/collections/image.php3?Name=Needlework+Box&image=1987-2-1-emb-2-50.jpg 

I also found an embroidered mans suit.

Bjarne


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk 

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph 

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  1 11:49:25 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 08:33:11 -0700
Status: RO

I know this topic turns up again and again here, so i apologize in 
advance for boring those are sick of this already.

I would like an answer as to why in modern garments men's and women's 
garments button on opposite sides in order to dispel misinformation 
on another e-list. A woman there heard that men's and women's 
garments button on opposite sides because men had servants to button 
them up while women had to do their own.

I know this is untrue, but rather than spread more misinformation 
myself, i'd like to know if anyone here has some actual historical 
fact.

Thanks,
Anahita
who doesn't often wear clothes with buttons
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  1 12:08:46 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 10:55:06 -0500
Status: RO

I do know that it is the standard by which dry cleaners use in order to
prepare men's shirts differently from women's shirts other than because of
the darts in our shirts. But I am curious too because it seems to apply to
pants too.

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Steppes, Ansteorra
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: <lilinah@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 10:33 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?


> I know this topic turns up again and again here, so i apologize in
> advance for boring those are sick of this already.
>
> I would like an answer as to why in modern garments men's and women's
> garments button on opposite sides in order to dispel misinformation
> on another e-list. A woman there heard that men's and women's
> garments button on opposite sides because men had servants to button
> them up while women had to do their own.
>
> I know this is untrue, but rather than spread more misinformation
> myself, i'd like to know if anyone here has some actual historical
> fact.
>
> Thanks,
> Anahita
> who doesn't often wear clothes with buttons
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 12:35:51 EDT
Status: RO

Judith Lopez once investigated this topic, but I'm not sure if it has been 
published.  The standardization does not seem to have occurred until the rise 
of ready-to-wear in the late 19th century.  Before that, both women's and 
men's clothes lapped both ways.  (Of course, when you think about it, 
overlapping closures in women's clothes are fairly recent, too.)  Studies of 
both photographs and extant garments indicate this.  (Photos can be tricky, 
though--the image might have been reversed.)
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 11:37:11 -0700
Status: RO

Ann Wass wrote:
>Judith Lopez once investigated this topic, but I'm not sure if it has been
>published.  The standardization does not seem to have occurred until the rise
>of ready-to-wear in the late 19th century.  Before that, both women's and
>men's clothes lapped both ways.  (Of course, when you think about it,
>overlapping closures in women's clothes are fairly recent, too.)  Studies of
>both photographs and extant garments indicate this.  (Photos can be tricky,
>though--the image might have been reversed.)

Thanks. This confirms some assumptions i jumped to after a minimal 
amount of research. After reviewing some historic clothing myself i 
noticed no particular consistency into the 17th century.

Then i found a plausibly accurate web page (Historical Boys Clothing) 
that said there was no apparent convention even in the early 19th c., 
although the author of that webpage posited no possible reason for 
the conventionalization of buttoning.

I, on the other hand, jumped to the conclusion that if buttoning 
conventions finally appeared in the 19th century, then 
mass-production probably was a major reason. That's still no good 
reason for two different buttoning systems for men and for women, 
only for the establishment of a single one.

So i suspect (with absolutely no supporting evidence) that Victorian, 
ah-hem, attention to detail, shall we say, was also a contributing 
factor, categorizing, cataloging, and formalizing so many aspects of 
social life.

Anahita
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 13:30:23 -0700
Status: RO


>So i suspect (with absolutely no supporting evidence) that Victorian, 
>ah-hem, attention to detail, shall we say, was also a contributing factor, 
>categorizing, cataloging, and formalizing so many aspects of social life.

I think that buttoning one way rather than another coincides with the 
invention of the shirt-waist for women - we can't have women wearing men's 
clothes, so we'll have them button differently so they aren't really the same.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 23:22:18 +0100
Status: RO

I thought it was supposed to bevsomething like men getting themselves
dressed & women having maids. No supporting evidence, just something I once
heard

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 17:29:38 -0500
Status: RO

For men's buttons, it supposedly comes down from men needing their sword arm
free(presumably the right arm).  And women had maids or female relatives to
help dress them.

But there are extant garments that button opposite of what we would think
now for the gender of the garment's wearer. Which might mean that before
mass production, if the garment's maker knew if one were left-handed, or did
or didn't have servants/relatives to help dress one, the garment was made to
the wearer's preference as to fastening left over right or right over left.

I don't think the whole thing was formalized until clothing went into mass
production
Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 18:42:12 -0400
Status: RO

I recently researched this in the archives.  It is covered this topic in
depth.

I am also trying to look more into this and hope to write an article because
I am just not happy with the myths.  I am presenting looking into the
history of men's shirt companies like Arrow who began selling men's shirts
in 1851.  Just this past week, I found in the book "Over the Counter and on
the Shelf: Country Storekeeping in America: 1620-1920" that one of the
earliest men's shirt manufacturers was Oliver Winchester.  Somewhere between
1840 and 1860 he was manufacturing over 200 dozen men's shirts a week.  A
piece of trivia, in 1860, Mr. Winchester decided that it would be more
profitable to make firearms.  So do which do you think made him famous.

Just found this on a webpage about Oliver Winchester:
In 1848, he patented a new method for manufacturing shirts and with Davies
started a factory in New Haven. More about Mr. Winchester is at
http://www.raken.com/american_wealth/encyclopedia/profile.asp?code=2563

I think the key answer to the question will deal with the first
manufacturers and the standardization of men and women's clothing.  Women's
clothing did not become standardized until after 1900.

I have yet read the article about the mention in the CSA journal Dress about
the standardization of buttons on clothing.  I do not have that issue.  So
if someone would send me a photocopy, I would be very happy!

>From reading the messages in the archives, I believe that the sword issue of
pulling the sword from the sheath makes sense.  I find it hard to believe
the point about the middle class Victorian women having maids, and that the
buttons were moved to the opposing side to accommodate them.  I just find it
hard to believe that many people had maids.

I do believe there is a strong case to be made that the buttons were placed
on the opposite side for women, so that one could tell the difference
between men and women shirts and shirtwaists... especially after 1900.   As
a former clothing salesperson, this would be very helpful and just makes
common sense.

Well that is my two cents...

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 18:59:14 -0400
Status: RO

Okay, I just found on another website about Oliver Winchester the following:

He opened a store in Baltimore making and selling shirts (1837), before
moving to New York (1847) where he took on a partner. Winchester patented a
new method or manufacturing men's shirts, and opened a factory in nearby New
Haven, Conn.
http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0772016.html

I do not know much about patents, but if he patented how to make men's
shirts, wouldn't he have had to distinguish the side the buttons were
supposed to be on in the patent?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 00:11:05 +0100
Status: RO

>I do not know much about patents, but if he patented how to make men's
shirts, wouldn't he have had to distinguish the side the buttons were
supposed to be on in the patent?

I wouldn't think it was necessary for manufacture UNLESS it was a vitale &
unique part of the patant, but if that was the case everone else would be
breaking it & common usage stuff is generally not patentable, eg you can't
patent sewing a button on, but you can patent a machine that does it in a
certain way

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] Old on-card Victorian laces and ribbons on E-bay.
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 13:45:10 -0700
Status: RO

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=862768832 is a 
representative piece of Irish crochet.



>Many of the lace items featured this week were removed from an estate 
>located in the prominent Beacon Hill of Boston. The husband managed a 
>textile factory on Tremont Street in Boston dating to the Victorian 1870's 
>through the 1950's and the wife had an extensive collection of lace trims, 
>most French in origin, and bolts of fabric dating from the 1880's to the 
>early 1930's


>I've been walking through the seller's stock and drooling.  There are some 
>very handsome 
>laces. 
>http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=jamiexmas@aol.com&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25

Be well, do good work, and keep in touch.  - G. Keillor
Betsy Hanes Perry  betsy.perry@oracle.com

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 milliner
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:38:33 -0700
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     I am NOT sub'd to this list, so please reply to me at my home
address, as above, NOT to the work address.
     If you could let the lady know I am seeking to contact her, I would
appreciate that.  Or: if someone knows a great source from which coated
millinery wire may be purchased, please let me know.  Thank you in
advance.  Carol

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  1 20:50:46 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PLEASE REPLY TO: cjcannon@greymists.com  Searching for Sue Chatto, milliner
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 20:35:47 -0400
Status: RO

I forwarded your message to Sue.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Cannon, Carol J. Bell" <cjcannon@ucdavis.edu>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 11:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] PLEASE REPLY TO: cjcannon@greymists.com Searching for Sue
Chatto, milliner


>      I am NOT sub'd to this list, so please reply to me at my home
> address, as above, NOT to the work address.
>      If you could let the lady know I am seeking to contact her, I would
> appreciate that.  Or: if someone knows a great source from which coated
> millinery wire may be purchased, please let me know.  Thank you in
> advance.  Carol
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 14:17:35 +1200
Status: RO

> I think that buttoning one way rather than another coincides with the
> invention of the shirt-waist for women - we can't have women wearing men's
> clothes, so we'll have them button differently so they aren't really the
same.

Now this makes more sense that the so called women being dressed by maids
theory. Have you tried buttoning a woman's blouse or jacket when you aren't
wearing it? It's really difficult, because you wind up relying on your felt
hand to guide the buttonhole. Perfect for left handed people I suppose? But
that then assumes that all maids were left handed;).

Besides men and women were dressed by servants. Dresses that fasten up the
back however clearly indicate a need for another person depending on the
level of difficulty.

The need to differenciate men's clothes from women's when women's clothes
were starting to look masculine does fit in with the need to gender seperate
apparent in a lot of literature even of the early 20thC.

michaela

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200205011801.g41I1mR28310@net.indra.com> <200205011801.g41I1mR28310@net.indra.com> <4.3.1.2.20020501132851.00c114c0@mail.frys.com> <005c01c1f17f$86f02430$7cd4adcb@michaela>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 07:00:32 +0100
Status: RO

>Now this makes more sense that the so called women being dressed by maids
theory. Have you tried buttoning a woman's blouse or jacket when you aren't
wearing it?

Yes when I dress my kids, both sexes ,  I don't find either difficult to be
honest.

It's really difficult, because you wind up relying on your felt
hand to guide the buttonhole. Perfect for left handed people I suppose? But
that then assumes that all maids were left handed;).

I think that is more to do with what you are used to that left or right
handedness.

>Besides men and women were dressed by servants.

This is the bit that didn't make much sense to me, although women need more
dressing than a man, ie more bits & pieces & complicated fastenings in real
victorian costume.

I'm not 100% convinced by any theory, although the machinery regulating the
buttons makes sense why one way for men one for women, it isn't economical
as it gives 2 machinery costs.

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 09:05:26 +0100
Status: RO

The theory about drawing the sword and not wanting it to catch in the opening came from me, from a children's book of my father's c. 1920. I'm not sure I believe it, on reflection, as you don't draw your sword directly across your front.
I don't believe the "servant" theory either, as it presupposes that one method of buttoning is intrinsically easier than the other, which I don't think is true.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 05:22:06 -0500
Status: RO

And button front shirts are a relatively recent invention anyway. During
the heyday of sword-drawing, most shirts didn't open all the way down the
front and weren't buttoned but tied at the neck. 

Of any of the current theories as to why the difference in side came into
being, I'm inclined towards the gender indication one. I think it might
be along the same lines as when women began wearing slacks/pants in the
early 1960's they often fastened on the hip or in the center back because
that meant that they were women's clothing and that the woman wasn't
wearing men's clothing. I seem to recall there being a custom in
religiously conservative communities (Conservative Jews) that women could
wear slacks as long as they DIDN'T fasten in center front because that
form of closing was for men's clothing and you can't wear the clothing of
the other sex.



Just a few thoughts waaaaayy too early in the morning.


Karen

On Thu, 02 May 2002 09:05:26 +0100 "Kate M Bunting"
<K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> writes:
> The theory about drawing the sword and not wanting it to catch in the 
> opening came from me, from a children's book of my father's c. 1920. 
> I'm not sure I believe it, on reflection, as you don't draw your 
> sword directly across your front.
> I don't believe the "servant" theory either, as it presupposes that 
> one method of buttoning is intrinsically easier than the other, 
> which I don't think is true.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 11:46:56 +0100
Status: RO

Karen wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> And button front shirts are a relatively recent invention anyway. During
the heyday of sword-drawing, most shirts didn't open all the way down the
front and weren't buttoned but tied at the neck. 

I wasn't thinking of shirts, which were classed as underclothing then, but of coats/doublets.

>>>Of any of the current theories as to why the difference in side came into
being, I'm inclined towards the gender indication one. I think it might
be along the same lines as when women began wearing slacks/pants in the
early 1960's they often fastened on the hip or in the center back because
that meant that they were women's clothing and that the woman wasn't
wearing men's clothing.

Yes, I agree. When I first used to wear trousers at that time it would have felt vaguely improper for a woman to wear front-opening ones, not consciously on religious grounds but just from custom.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 12:13:46 +0100
Status: RO

Karen wrote:


Of any of the current theories as to why the difference in side came
into
> being, I'm inclined towards the gender indication one. I think it
might
> be along the same lines as when women began wearing slacks/pants in
the
> early 1960's they often fastened on the hip or in the center back
because
> that meant that they were women's clothing and that the woman wasn't
> wearing men's clothing.

There is an interesting paper on Victorian attempts to enforce gender
in the choice of textiles:

"Wool cloth and gender: the use of woolen cloth in woman's dress in
Britain 1865-85"

by Lou Taylor in "Defining Dress: Dress as object, meaning and
identity.
ed. Amy de la Haye and Elizabeth Wilson

which chimes rather well with your view on this.

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Riding habits
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 12:22:02 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,

Rather late for the discussion, I know, but there is a long paper by
Janet Arnold discussing many of the issues raised, entitled

"Dashing Amazons: the development of women's riding dress,
c.1500-1900"

 in "Defining Dress: Dress as object, meaning and
identity."
ed. Amy de la Haye and Elizabeth Wilson.

best wishes
Stevie


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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 14:03:37 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Greetings one and all,

With events fast approaching I am starting work on a new doublet for myself based on the 1580s
doublet in Patterns opf Fashion.

My question concerns the sleeves.  I have heard people mention that Linen sleeves were most
commonly used, but does anyone know of any other materials that were used and can document (even
just a picture would be great).

I am making the doublet out of wool and would ideally like to have wool sleeves to attach, but I'm
happy with linen if all else fails.

Thanks
Rachel

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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 10:13:22 EDT
Status: RO


<< < I'd join a reenactment group just to have an excuse to 
make that...
--Gillian the Elizabethan>

there's a different reason to join reenactment groups?
 I had no idea! 
.heather.>>

LOL!!!

--Gillian
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 10:35:10 EDT
Status: RO


Kayta,

Don't put yourself down; think of it as an opportunity!  I mean, when your 
the most knowledgeable or skilled person in the group, there is no one to 
learn from to expand your horizons.  While it's fun to be worshipped for your 
skills, it eventually gets frustrating that there's no one doing work that 
inspires YOU.  What you learned the other day was that there is always more 
to learn -- which should make you feel years younger.  And now that others 
have "raised the bar," just think how exciting it'll be rising to the 
challenge of your NEXT costume...

Stay positive,
Gillian
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May  2 11:17:03 2002
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From: "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 14:49:00 +0000
Status: RO

I'm wondering if placement of buttons was a way for dry cleaners (or other 
washer-type establishments) to determine which was a women's garment?  I 
notice that most drycleaners charge substantially more for dry cleaning a 
women's garment than a man's.  I find that if I buy men's shirts to fit, and 
send them to a cleaners that my bill is less.  But to send a women's shirt, 
same kind of cut and material, it costs more.

Just a thought to ponder...

Gia/Giacinta


>From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
>Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 12:13:46 +0100
>
>Karen wrote:
>
>
>Of any of the current theories as to why the difference in side came
>into
> > being, I'm inclined towards the gender indication one. I think it
>might
> > be along the same lines as when women began wearing slacks/pants in
>the
> > early 1960's they often fastened on the hip or in the center back
>because
> > that meant that they were women's clothing and that the woman wasn't
> > wearing men's clothing.
>
>There is an interesting paper on Victorian attempts to enforce gender
>in the choice of textiles:
>
>"Wool cloth and gender: the use of woolen cloth in woman's dress in
>Britain 1865-85"
>
>by Lou Taylor in "Defining Dress: Dress as object, meaning and
>identity.
>ed. Amy de la Haye and Elizabeth Wilson
>
>which chimes rather well with your view on this.
>
>best wishes
>Stevie
>
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 10:05:38 -0500
Status: RO

It more than likely had to do with the industry coming up with a type of standard.  But I 
always wondered if it might have had it's beginnings with the statement "A lady on the 
left is no lady at all.".....Which at our local fair has to do with when ladies are 
accompanied, they always stand to the right of the man in the lanes.
  Since ladies had to stand on the right, maybe that is where the gender left vs right 
thing started?.... I know it is a stretch... just a thought.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 10:56:07 EDT
Status: RO


<<  The modern USA is not designed for flambouyantly big skirts!!  >>

Tell me about it!  We have our events at places like churches and stuff, and 
the doorways and stair cases are all extra-narrow.  And lets not even talk 
about squeezing a farthingale into a child-size restroom stall!

I often see  1 or 2 other late Elizabethan noblewomen per event have to lift 
their hoops on one side to fit through -- very indecent by period standards 
and odd even today.  I made my own hoops from plastic tubing from Home Depot 
to avoid having to do this.  Unlike hoop steel, the tubing will flex into an 
ellipse if you force yourself through the doorway.  I'd rather use hooping 
wire for authenticity, but modern architecture doesn't let you wear it 
gracefully.

--Gillian

--Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
In-Reply-To: <F1310Gai4omRXf2LTrp0000dcf6@hotmail.com> "from Gia Gavino at May
 2, 2002 02:49:00 pm"
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 08:10:57 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

that practice on dry cleaners part is now illegal in many places,
as it constitutues discrimination in pricing.  

.heather.


> I'm wondering if placement of buttons was a way for dry cleaners (or other 
> washer-type establishments) to determine which was a women's garment?  I 
> notice that most drycleaners charge substantially more for dry cleaning a 
> women's garment than a man's.  I find that if I buy men's shirts to fit, and 
> send them to a cleaners that my bill is less.  But to send a women's shirt, 
> same kind of cut and material, it costs more.
> 
> Just a thought to ponder...
> 
> Gia/Giacinta
> 
> 
> >From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
> >Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
> >Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 12:13:46 +0100
> >
> >Karen wrote:
> >
> >
> >Of any of the current theories as to why the difference in side came
> >into
> > > being, I'm inclined towards the gender indication one. I think it
> >might
> > > be along the same lines as when women began wearing slacks/pants in
> >the
> > > early 1960's they often fastened on the hip or in the center back
> >because
> > > that meant that they were women's clothing and that the woman wasn't
> > > wearing men's clothing.
> >
> >There is an interesting paper on Victorian attempts to enforce gender
> >in the choice of textiles:
> >
> >"Wool cloth and gender: the use of woolen cloth in woman's dress in
> >Britain 1865-85"
> >
> >by Lou Taylor in "Defining Dress: Dress as object, meaning and
> >identity.
> >ed. Amy de la Haye and Elizabeth Wilson
> >
> >which chimes rather well with your view on this.
> >
> >best wishes
> >Stevie
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world?s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
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> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Trim on 14th century Italian dresses?
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 11:28:15 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 4/29/02 11:29:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< If is it trim, how are they getting it around the necklines without 
puckering on the corners? >>

Colleen, while I can't help with any of the rest of it, I can tell you how to 
curve ribbon trims around a neckline.  Use either a hand running stitch  or a 
long straight machine stitch  to easestitch lengthwise along the edge of the 
trim  that will be closest to the neckhole.  If the trim is wide, you may 
want to do another running stitch through the middle of the ribbon.  You can 
use a thread color that will blend into the trim and leave it in, or a 
contrasting color to be removed later.  My favorite is to use water soluble 
thread, available at Clotilde.com and other quilting suppliers including 
Wal-Mart.  Now draw the thread like an ease stitch (as you would for set-in 
sleeves) and distribute the fullness evenly.  Pin the trim in place with 
silk/dressmaker pins and permanently stitch to the garment along both edges 
in either a matching thread or invisible nylon (not period, but blends into 
multicolored trims better).  Now shrink out the ease with an iron on the 
lowest steam setting to make it lie flat.  If you used water soluble thread, 
this will dissolve it at this time and save you the trouble of picking out 
your easestiches.

Hope this helps,
Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] TITANIC jump dress to be auctioned
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 09:47:07 -0600
Status: RO

news item:

A $35,000 dress worn by actress Kate Winslet in the 1997 blockbuster
TITANIC will go on the auction block June 12. It's part of an auction
of celebrity memorabilia be- ing conducted by Odyssey Auctions, the
publisher of Autograph Collector magazine. The post-Victorian style
red silk dress is the costume Rose DeWitt Bukater (Winslet) wore as
she contemplated jumping overboard because of her hopeless engagement,
but then is saved by Jack Dawson (Leonard DiCaprio).  The sequin and
lace adorned dress cost $35,000 to make, and is accompanied by a
letter of authenticity signed by Salvadore Perez, the film's cos- tume
manufacturing foreman. Odyssey Auctions is based in Corona, Calif.
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 09:21:25 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

--- Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> 
> <<  The modern USA is not designed for flambouyantly big skirts!! 
> >>
> 
> Tell me about it!  We have our events at places like churches and
> stuff, and 
> the doorways and stair cases are all extra-narrow.  And lets not
> even talk 
> about squeezing a farthingale into a child-size restroom stall!
[snip]

Interesting...I once toured the Laura plantation in New Orleans, and
in one room of the house, there was a very narrow doorway--this was
the doorway to the mens' room and it was deliberately narrow to
indicate that it was not for women! 

mirv


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
My EBay storefront: http://www.ebaystores.com/darkthreadsdesigns
My personal page: http://www.geocities.com/mirv_sewing/
My business Web site (under construction): http://www.darkthreads.com/
Adventure can be real happiness.--Fortune Cookie

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 09:46:53 -0700
Status: RO


>Which might mean that before
>mass production, if the garment's maker knew if one were left-handed, or did
>or didn't have servants/relatives to help dress one, the garment was made to
>the wearer's preference as to fastening left over right or right over left.

There are Ren. garments where the buttons go in pairs or triples - one set 
left-over-right, the next set right-over-left, etc. - all the way down.  It 
may just have been the tailor's preference which way they made things 
button, or they may have assumed everyone was right-handed 
(right-handedness apparently being more common then than now, when 
left-handedness is ok).


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the level of costuming
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 11:26:59 -0700
Status: RO


>Don't put yourself down; think of it as an opportunity!

>   And now that others
>have "raised the bar," just think how exciting it'll be rising to the
>challenge of your NEXT costume...

Those are exactly the thoughts I ended up with, after the shock wore off - 
a new dress for me and better than the old ones.  I've learned a lot about 
finishing techniques and little details in 10 years, partly from being on 
h-costume, and partly from doing Victorian a lot lately, and many of these 
are period for the new dress I have in mind (1520-ish, 'German').  I've 
learned a lot of embroidery and needlework things too, and as many of them 
as can reasonably be put in one outfit can go into this one.  Woo hoo, an 
excuse to do another dress!

First, however, I have to put down my doll project, and finish my formal 
maid project.  So many centuries, so little time...

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Mr. Winchester (was Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 09:51:24 -0700
Status: RO


>A
>piece of trivia, in 1860, Mr. Winchester decided that it would be more
>profitable to make firearms.  So do which do you think made him famous?

I live near San Jose, CA, where Mr. Winchester's widow built a house, 
locally known as the 'Winchester Mystery House'.  If you're ever in the 
area, go see it.  I think there's at least one of Sarah Winchester's 
costumes in it (I'm not sure), but the house itself is the largest in the 
whole area, has nice leaded-glass Tiffany windows, etc.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 19:05:58 EDT
Status: RO

Hi! I am new to this list and not quite sure how it works. I recently opened 
a costume shop and am looking for some good wholesale suppliers for costumes 
and accessories. I make some of them myself but need others also.any help 
from anyone out there would be greatly appreciated.Thank You! Bonnie of 
Bonnies Costumes
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Where are you located?  You might want to pick up a copy of the "Whole 
Costumers Catalog" which has source information for suppliers all over the 
country.  Are you looking for built costumes?  Do you rent to individuals or 
theaters?  Feel free to contact me off list and I'll see what I can come up 
with for you.  I'm in the SF Bay Area.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"Nay then, let the devil wear black, 
for I'll have a suit of sables..."
W. Shakespeare

In a message dated 5/2/2002 4:08:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
KeckSimba@aol.com writes:


> Hi! I am new to this list and not quite sure how it works. I recently opened 
> 
> a costume shop and am looking for some good wholesale suppliers for 
> costumes 
> and accessories. I make some of them myself but need others also.any help 
> from anyone out there would be greatly appreciated.Thank You! Bonnie of 
> Bonnies Costumes
> 


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Where are you located?&nbsp; You might want to pick up a copy of the "Whole Costumers Catalog" which has source information for suppliers all over the country.&nbsp; Are you looking for built costumes?&nbsp; Do you rent to individuals or theaters?&nbsp; Feel free to contact me off list and I'll see what I can come up with for you.&nbsp; I'm in the SF Bay Area.<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"Nay then, let the devil wear black, <BR>
for I'll have a suit of sables..."<BR>
W. Shakespeare<BR>
<BR>
In a message dated 5/2/2002 4:08:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time, KeckSimba@aol.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hi! I am new to this list and not quite sure how it works. I recently opened <BR>
a costume shop and am looking for some good wholesale suppliers for costumes <BR>
and accessories. I make some of them myself but need others also.any help <BR>
from anyone out there would be greatly appreciated.Thank You! Bonnie of <BR>
Bonnies Costumes<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Where are you, and what sorts of things do you do?  Dress-up, Halloween, Ren 
Faire, Fantasy, or ?
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Where are you, and what sorts of things do you do?&nbsp; Dress-up, Halloween, Ren Faire, Fantasy, or ?<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the level of costuming
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 21:07:00 -0400
Status: RO

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Well, there's a question with as many answers as there are members of =
the list!

I am in south central PA, and I do SCA costuming.  I consider mysefl =
still at beginner level, as I am working on Tudor and Elizabethan garb, =
and there is quite a large learning curve.

Dianne

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AnnBWass@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the level of costuming


  Where are you, and what sorts of things do you do?  Dress-up, =
Halloween, Ren Faire, Fantasy, or ?
  Ann Wass=20

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Well, there's a question with as many =
answers as=20
there are members of the list!<BR><BR>I am in south central PA, and I do =
SCA=20
costuming.&nbsp; I consider mysefl still at beginner level, as I am =
working on=20
Tudor and Elizabethan garb, and there is quite a large learning=20
curve.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dianne</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DAnnBWass@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:AnnBWass@aol.com">AnnBWass@aol.com</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 02, 2002 =
8:33=20
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Re: the =
level of=20
  costuming</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Where are you, and what sorts of things do you =
do?&nbsp;=20
  Dress-up, Halloween, Ren Faire, Fantasy, or ?<BR>Ann Wass</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] where and what?
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 19:49:22 -0700
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Where are you, and what sorts of things do you do? Dress-up, Halloween, Ren
>Faire, Fantasy, or ? Ann Wass
I'm west of Portland OR and I do all of the above plus SCA. I also sew for 
myself and my two teen daughters. They can get VERY creative with what they 
want to wear sometimes. No dress code at school means sometimes my 15 yr old 
wears my garb to class just for fun.
Since my obsession with beads started a couple years ago I have been trying 
out all kinds of clothes to add beads to. I'm also learning to make beaded 
amulet purses in all shapes and sizes.

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From: Shalazar <shalazar@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Mr. Winchester (was Re: [h-cost] Why button on left or right?
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 19:51:46 -0700
Status: RO

I love this place  We have been 3 times, last time I brought my Hubby,
he was fascinated
especially those windows... And hey, your swap meet is not too bad
either.
Nan

--
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to
learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable
for their apparent disinclination to do so."

 - Douglas Adams (1952-2001)    English novelist


"Throughout history,
 it has been the inaction of those who could have acted;
 the indifference of those who should have known better;
 the silence of the voice of justice when it mattered most;
 that has made it possible for evil to triumph."

` -Haile Selassie


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the level of costuming
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Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 00:10:56 -0700
Status: RO


>Where are you,

San Leandro, CA, just south of Oakland, just across the bay from San Francisco.

>and what sorts of things do you do?  Dress-up, Halloween, Ren Faire, 
>Fantasy, or ?

Yes, yes, yes, yes, and fibre art/wearable art.


Kayta
    //// \\\
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Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 04:56:28 -0400
Status: RO

Kayta,

I saw an article about the house on the web.  It is beautiful!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 14:01:52 +0200
Status: RO

In China? Mind your hat
http://www.iht.com/articles/56509.html
A Washington State agriculture official who was touring China a few years 
ago handed out bright green baseball caps at every stop without noticing 
that none of the men would put them on or that all the women were giggling.

Finally, a Chinese-American in the delegation took the man aside and 
informed him that to wear a green hat is the Chinese symbol of a cuckold.
It is the bane of the business traveler in an unfamiliar culture: making a 
comment or gesture that is meant to be friendly but that offends or 
embarrasses the hosts. Mocking a man's masculinity is only one of the 
inadvertent slights that visiting corporate executives and government 
officials can make in China that serve to emphasize the cultural gaps they 
are trying hard to minimize.

Happily, such cross-cultural faux pas are no longer deal killers. 
Globalization has narrowed the cultural divide, and these days the Chinese 
are experienced enough in dealing with foreigners to shrug off 
indiscretions. Even stabbing chopsticks into a bowl of rice and leaving 
them there (an act of hostility among Chinese because it signifies death) 
would be laughed off (nervously) by locals unless it was done with obvious 
intent. What really matters is a friendly attitude and a patient manner. 
Even so, the worst gaffes still leave a bad impression and the right 
gestures still earn respect.

One rule of thumb is understand the Chinese worldview. Don St. Pierre Jr., 
who has spent his adult life doing business in China, recalls a Canadian 
winemaker telling Chinese reporters in Shanghai that he expected his 
"ultrapremium" wine to do well in China because it had done well in Japan 
and the two cultures had so much in common.

Resentment of Japan runs very deep in China, particularly in Shanghai, 
which was bombed and occupied by the Japanese during World War II. The 
Chinese regard Japan's culture as derivative of their own far more ancient 
traditions and bristle at Japanese notions of superiority.

St. Pierre nudged the winemaker beneath the table, but by the time the man 
had stopped speaking, the room was quiet enough to hear a Champagne bubble 
burst. The damage had been done, St. Pierre said, even though the winemaker 
had hired an expensive international public relations firm to brief him on 
what he should and should not say. "Which shows how useful that advice can 
be," St. Pierre added.

Duncan Clark, a consultant based in Beijing, says locally hired secretaries 
are generally a better first line of defense for multinationals. He 
recalled that during his days at Morgan Stanley in Hong Kong, the firm 
ordered expensive clocks to give as gifts commemorating the closing of a 
deal. The firm's local staff caught the mistake: to "give a clock" in 
Chinese sounds the same as "seeing someone off to his end."

With thousands of years of accumulated cultural snippets to sift through, 
an outsider cannot hope to catch every potential pitfall. The Chinese 
language is filled with embarrassing puns and unlucky homonyms that at best 
can cause snickers behind a foreigner's back.

Besides clocks, giving umbrellas is taboo because doing so is homonymous 
with a phrase that means the person's family will be dispersed. Books, too, 
are unlucky presents because "giving a book" sounds the same as "delivering 
defeat."

China's many dialects multiply the risks. Shanghai natives chuckle at Va 
Bene, an expensive Italian restaurant that recently opened in town, because 
the Italian name meaning "it goes well" sounds like Shanghainese for "not 
cheap."

Color is another cue that can send an unintended message. One multinational 
company giving gifts from Tiffany replaced the white ribbons on the 
jeweler's famous robin's-egg blue boxes with red ribbons after the 
company's Shanghai employees pointed out that white in China signifies 
death, while red is lucky and is used for celebrations.

Picking numbers for everything from product prices to telephones is also 
tricky. Avoid 4, a homonym for death in Chinese, and load up on 8s, a 
number that is pronounced the same as "making money" in the southern 
Cantonese dialect.

But even an experienced Sinologist like Clark was mystified when his 
Beijing workers objected to pricing a product at 250 yuan. It turned out 
that in northern China, calling someone "250" is to say the person is nuts.

Clark's confusion illustrates the regional diversity of cultural quirks in 
a country as big as China. In the south, people tap two fingers on the 
table to say thanks, but people in the north might think the gesture is 
just a nervous tic.

On the other hand, a few generalizations apply across Asia. Most seasoned 
business travelers from the United States and Europe caught on long ago to 
the tradition of indulging in small talk and meandering toward the main 
point rather than getting down to business right away.

They have also come to appreciate the importance of "face" in Asian 
societies. Scott Seligman, author of "Chinese Business Etiquette: A Guide 
to Protocol, Manners, and Culture in the People's Republic of China" 
(Warner Books, 1999), says face is the most important concept for 
foreigners in China to master.

"It's not that we don't have a concept of face, but the Chinese raise face 
to high art," he said. "It's a fragile commodity in China that can easily 
be lost."

Seligman added, "The trigger doesn't have to be extreme. You can contradict 
somebody in front of someone who is lower ranking and cause the person to 
lose face. Even the simple act of saying no to somebody can make that 
person lose face."

Journalists are not immune. This reporter once made a gaffe by suggesting 
in a way intended to be complimentary that a central government official 
across the table was "probably too young to remember" some minor event in 
the past.

In the context in which it was said, age-obsessed Americans would have 
taken the comment as a flattering suggestion that they looked too young to 
remember whatever historical reference was being made.

But in China, where age is revered, the comment made the official and his 
entourage blanch, apparently wondering whether it was a veiled insult 
suggesting the man was too junior to warrant respect.

Bob Kapp, president of the U.S.-$ China Business Council, says his advice 
on how to avoid blunders in China has not changed in 30 years.

"Be modest in demeanor. Listen well. Preach little," he says. "Watch how 
others do things and follow suit."

Craig S. Smith
The New York Times
Friday, May 3, 2002

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Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 10:56:34 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



a neat link on the history of sewing machines

http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/index.htm


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Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 13:35:30 -0700
Status: RO

In case anyone wants to see them, here are some recent examples of SCA 
costuming, taken this past January:

http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/

Even some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing better.

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 14:37:12 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Hello everyone,

I am new to this list and thought I would introduce myself.

My name is Truly Smith Biggs and I live in Houston, TX. My deep interest
in historic costume led me to an MFA in Costume Technology at the
University of Texas at Austin, and also to the SCA. I did freelance
costume work for four years around the US (don't worry, I won't give you
my resume - if anyone is interested in where or when I worked at what
theater - feel free to write me) but have eventually settled down to a
totally non-creative computer job at Compaq computers (soon to be Hewlitt
Packard) My husband and my two year old son are very pleased that I no
longer work theater hours.

I still make period clothing every chance I can get, and have a small
business making hats for actors and re-enactors. 

Please visit my website if you wish: www.trulyoriginals.com

I look forward to learning from and conversing with you all!

Thanks,

Truly



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Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 18:16:48 -0500
Status: RO

Welcome Truly!!! I have long been a fan of your work and have missed the
last two classes you did on Draping in Dallas, (I think it was two classes).
PLEASE do another class soon for us!! :)

List, this woman is phenomenal! She is one of a handful I aspire to be like.
:)

Will you be teaching at King's College?

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Truly Biggs" <trulinor@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 4:37 PM
Subject: [h-cost] New to this list


>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am new to this list and thought I would introduce myself.
>

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Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 12:10:13 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Carolyn.
I think this would be a challenge for you! Dont be afraid, to go for it,
and think about how lucky you are to have such a bunch of wonderfull
reenactors to be together with.
I have to go several hundred of kilometers to find some to join at
Stockholm.

Thanks for sharing those gorgeous costumes with  us

Bjarne

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> In case anyone wants to see them, here are some recent examples of SCA
> costuming, taken this past January:
>
> http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/
>
> Even some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing better.
>
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 15:16:46 +0200
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Kayta,

You wrote:
  >In case anyone wants to see them, here are some recent examples of =
SCA=20
  costuming, taken this past January:

  http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/

  >Even some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing better.


  Agreed. While at first glance it all looks pretty and impressive, a =
closer look discovers all kinds of faults. Too much velvet and shiny =
satin (reminds me of curtains all the time), too many machine produced =
patterned materials and trims, too wide belts (and too many white ones =
as well, when are they stopping that stupid rule...), too much modern =
jewellery, too few female headkerchiefs, too little wool and linen, etc. =
etc. Overall I see things getting better with the SCA, but this is =
really too much 'creative anachronism'. By the way: why do SCAdians not =
study the way medieval and renaissance people were named; it still is =
more fantasy than reality. And for God's sake, why don't they take off =
their glasses when they get their picture taken!


  Henk


  Visit the colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage=20
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl


  Kayta
      //// \\\
     ////-@@\\\
    ((((   7 )))
     (((  <> ))))
        )   ((((((
  /----\   /---\))

  _______________________________________________
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  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


------=_NextPart_000_0069_01C1F37E.B47FFC80
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Kayta,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV>&gt;In case anyone wants to see them, here are some recent =
examples of=20
  SCA <BR>costuming, taken this past January:<BR><BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/">http://www.keradwc.com/2=
0020105_west12/</A><BR><BR>&gt;Even=20
  some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing better.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Agreed. While at first glance it all looks pretty and impressive, =
a=20
  closer look discovers all kinds of faults. Too much velvet and shiny =
satin=20
  (reminds me of curtains all the time), too many machine produced =
patterned=20
  materials and trims, too wide belts (and too many white ones as well, =
when are=20
  they stopping that stupid rule...), too much modern jewellery, too few =
female=20
  headkerchiefs, too little wool and linen, etc. etc. Overall I see =
things=20
  getting better with the SCA, but this is really too much 'creative=20
  anachronism'. By the way: why do SCAdians not study the way medieval =
and=20
  renaissance people were named; it still is more fantasy than reality. =
And for=20
  God's sake, why don't they take off their glasses when&nbsp;they get =
their=20
  picture taken!</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the colourful tScapreel website;<BR>Separate English pages=20
  clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very own domain: <A=20
  href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV>
  <DIV><BR><BR>Kayta<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; //// \\\<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  ////-@@\\\<BR>&nbsp; ((((&nbsp;&nbsp; 7 )))<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp; (((&nbsp; =
&lt;&gt;=20
  ))))<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; )&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  ((((((<BR>/----\&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  =
/---\))<BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costu=
me=20
  mailing list<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</A><BR>=
<A=20
  =
href=3D"http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume">http://mail.ind=
ra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume</A><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML=
>

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Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 15:28:19 -0400
Status: RO

And for the original questions about buttonholes, the article in DRESS was
by Judith Lopez in 1993 titled "Buttonholes: some Differences in
Gender-Related Front Closures"
Kathy

Stevie Gamble wrote:

> Karen wrote:
>
> Of any of the current theories as to why the difference in side came
> into
> > being, I'm inclined towards the gender indication one. I think it
> might
> > be along the same lines as when women began wearing slacks/pants in
> the
> > early 1960's they often fastened on the hip or in the center back
> because
> > that meant that they were women's clothing and that the woman wasn't
> > wearing men's clothing.
>
> There is an interesting paper on Victorian attempts to enforce gender
> in the choice of textiles:
>
> "Wool cloth and gender: the use of woolen cloth in woman's dress in
> Britain 1865-85"
>
> by Lou Taylor in "Defining Dress: Dress as object, meaning and
> identity.
> ed. Amy de la Haye and Elizabeth Wilson
>
> which chimes rather well with your view on this.
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 14:31:20 -0700
Status: RO

 > Even some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing better.

Did you mean that some of these people are "old Hippies of my SCA
acquaintance" who have made strides forward in their garb, or that you
know old hippies who can do a better job than the people pictured?

Even some of the old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance, who are pictured here, 
are dressing better than they used to dress.  Sorry about the confusion.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 17:34:45 EDT
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In a message dated 5/4/2002 3:52:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kcleaver@acs.ryerson.ca writes:

<< And for the original questions about buttonholes, the article in DRESS was
 by Judith Lopez in 1993 titled "Buttonholes: some Differences in
 Gender-Related Front Closures" >>
So she did publish her work.  I heard her give a presentation some time 
before that.
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 5/4/02 6:45:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time, scapreel@tip.nl 
writes:


> . And for God's sake, why don't they take off their glasses when they get 
> their picture taken!

Well I gave taking off my glasses in the  early digits of the SCA.  We were 
doing a fashion show as part of a TV broadcast and they convinced me to go 
without my glasses...almost fell off the stage getting off could not find the 
stairs :)

Osmondia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/4/02 6:45:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time, scapreel@tip.nl writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">. And for God's sake, why don't they take off their glasses when they get their picture taken!</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Well I gave taking off my glasses in the&nbsp; early digits of the SCA.&nbsp; We were doing a fashion show as part of a TV broadcast and they convinced me to go without my glasses...almost fell off the stage getting off could not find the stairs :)<BR>
<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] article: etiquette colours
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 02:50:08 -0400
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LOL... one of the biggest things that is taught in marketing is to know your
targeted market.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jadran Kale" <jkale@public.srce.hr>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 8:01 AM
Subject: [h-cost] article: etiquette colours


> In China? Mind your hat
> http://www.iht.com/articles/56509.html
> A Washington State agriculture official who was touring China a few years
> ago handed out bright green baseball caps at every stop without noticing
> that none of the men would put them on or that all the women were
giggling.
>
> Finally, a Chinese-American in the delegation took the man aside and
> informed him that to wear a green hat is the Chinese symbol of a cuckold.
> It is the bane of the business traveler in an unfamiliar culture: making a
> comment or gesture that is meant to be friendly but that offends or
> embarrasses the hosts. Mocking a man's masculinity is only one of the
> inadvertent slights that visiting corporate executives and government
> officials can make in China that serve to emphasize the cultural gaps they
> are trying hard to minimize.
>
> Happily, such cross-cultural faux pas are no longer deal killers.
> Globalization has narrowed the cultural divide, and these days the Chinese
> are experienced enough in dealing with foreigners to shrug off
> indiscretions. Even stabbing chopsticks into a bowl of rice and leaving
> them there (an act of hostility among Chinese because it signifies death)
> would be laughed off (nervously) by locals unless it was done with obvious
> intent. What really matters is a friendly attitude and a patient manner.
> Even so, the worst gaffes still leave a bad impression and the right
> gestures still earn respect.
>
> One rule of thumb is understand the Chinese worldview. Don St. Pierre Jr.,
> who has spent his adult life doing business in China, recalls a Canadian
> winemaker telling Chinese reporters in Shanghai that he expected his
> "ultrapremium" wine to do well in China because it had done well in Japan
> and the two cultures had so much in common.
>
> Resentment of Japan runs very deep in China, particularly in Shanghai,
> which was bombed and occupied by the Japanese during World War II. The
> Chinese regard Japan's culture as derivative of their own far more ancient
> traditions and bristle at Japanese notions of superiority.
>
> St. Pierre nudged the winemaker beneath the table, but by the time the man
> had stopped speaking, the room was quiet enough to hear a Champagne bubble
> burst. The damage had been done, St. Pierre said, even though the
winemaker
> had hired an expensive international public relations firm to brief him on
> what he should and should not say. "Which shows how useful that advice can
> be," St. Pierre added.
>
> Duncan Clark, a consultant based in Beijing, says locally hired
secretaries
> are generally a better first line of defense for multinationals. He
> recalled that during his days at Morgan Stanley in Hong Kong, the firm
> ordered expensive clocks to give as gifts commemorating the closing of a
> deal. The firm's local staff caught the mistake: to "give a clock" in
> Chinese sounds the same as "seeing someone off to his end."
>
> With thousands of years of accumulated cultural snippets to sift through,
> an outsider cannot hope to catch every potential pitfall. The Chinese
> language is filled with embarrassing puns and unlucky homonyms that at
best
> can cause snickers behind a foreigner's back.
>
> Besides clocks, giving umbrellas is taboo because doing so is homonymous
> with a phrase that means the person's family will be dispersed. Books,
too,
> are unlucky presents because "giving a book" sounds the same as
"delivering
> defeat."
>
> China's many dialects multiply the risks. Shanghai natives chuckle at Va
> Bene, an expensive Italian restaurant that recently opened in town,
because
> the Italian name meaning "it goes well" sounds like Shanghainese for "not
> cheap."
>
> Color is another cue that can send an unintended message. One
multinational
> company giving gifts from Tiffany replaced the white ribbons on the
> jeweler's famous robin's-egg blue boxes with red ribbons after the
> company's Shanghai employees pointed out that white in China signifies
> death, while red is lucky and is used for celebrations.
>
> Picking numbers for everything from product prices to telephones is also
> tricky. Avoid 4, a homonym for death in Chinese, and load up on 8s, a
> number that is pronounced the same as "making money" in the southern
> Cantonese dialect.
>
> But even an experienced Sinologist like Clark was mystified when his
> Beijing workers objected to pricing a product at 250 yuan. It turned out
> that in northern China, calling someone "250" is to say the person is
nuts.
>
> Clark's confusion illustrates the regional diversity of cultural quirks in
> a country as big as China. In the south, people tap two fingers on the
> table to say thanks, but people in the north might think the gesture is
> just a nervous tic.
>
> On the other hand, a few generalizations apply across Asia. Most seasoned
> business travelers from the United States and Europe caught on long ago to
> the tradition of indulging in small talk and meandering toward the main
> point rather than getting down to business right away.
>
> They have also come to appreciate the importance of "face" in Asian
> societies. Scott Seligman, author of "Chinese Business Etiquette: A Guide
> to Protocol, Manners, and Culture in the People's Republic of China"
> (Warner Books, 1999), says face is the most important concept for
> foreigners in China to master.
>
> "It's not that we don't have a concept of face, but the Chinese raise face
> to high art," he said. "It's a fragile commodity in China that can easily
> be lost."
>
> Seligman added, "The trigger doesn't have to be extreme. You can
contradict
> somebody in front of someone who is lower ranking and cause the person to
> lose face. Even the simple act of saying no to somebody can make that
> person lose face."
>
> Journalists are not immune. This reporter once made a gaffe by suggesting
> in a way intended to be complimentary that a central government official
> across the table was "probably too young to remember" some minor event in
> the past.
>
> In the context in which it was said, age-obsessed Americans would have
> taken the comment as a flattering suggestion that they looked too young to
> remember whatever historical reference was being made.
>
> But in China, where age is revered, the comment made the official and his
> entourage blanch, apparently wondering whether it was a veiled insult
> suggesting the man was too junior to warrant respect.
>
> Bob Kapp, president of the U.S.-$ China Business Council, says his advice
> on how to avoid blunders in China has not changed in 30 years.
>
> "Be modest in demeanor. Listen well. Preach little," he says. "Watch how
> others do things and follow suit."
>
> Craig S. Smith
> The New York Times
> Friday, May 3, 2002
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>




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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 16:05:10 +0100
Status: RO

Henk wrote:

re:

  http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/

 >  While at first glance it all looks pretty and impressive, a closer
look discovers > all kinds of faults ....

including

>too much modern jewellery


Hear, Hear! Yards and yards of plastic pearls are the worst of all, in
my view.

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 11:45:33 -0400
Status: RO

At 3:16 PM +0200 5/4/02, Henk 't Jong - tScapreel wrote:

>By the way: why do SCAdians not study the way medieval and 
>renaissance people were named; it still is more fantasy than reality.

Why do you assume that nobody is studying this?  Some of us do -- in 
fact, some of us do it professionally in the Real World.  Just 
because not _everyone_ in a group is doing something doesn't mean 
that _nobody_ in the group is doing it.  Same for costuming: Kayta is 
commenting on what she sees as a significantly increased quality at 
the "higher end"; you're saying "but there are still lots of people 
doing awful stuff".  Both observations are true -- but the fact that 
some people in a group are doing low-quality work doesn't negate the 
high-quality work being done, in terms of individual accomplishment. 
It would be sort of like complaining that the H-Costume list has "all 
kinds of faults" because not everyone on the list works to the same 
high standard.  It may be true, but is it useful?

Heather
(SCAdian about to give a paper tomorrow on medieval Welsh naming 
practices at the Kalamazoo medieval studies conference)
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 16:50:52 +0100
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

>think about how lucky you are to have such a bunch of wonderfull
>reenactors to be together with.
>I have to go several hundred of kilometers to find some to join at
>Stockholm.
>Thanks for sharing those gorgeous costumes with  us

Bjarne, you are being far too modest; there's absolutely no comparison
between your work and that shown in the SCA photos that Carolyn
referred us to. As  Henk noted, it looks good at first but when you
look closely you see that there is not much substance and a lot of
illusion. Anyone looking at your costumes cannot fail to be both
thrilled and humbled by the sheer range of your virtuousity.


best wishes
Stevie




Bjarne

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> In case anyone wants to see them, here are some recent examples of
SCA
> costuming, taken this past January:
>
> http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/
>
> Even some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing better.
>
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 10:47:46 -0700
Status: RO


>> >In case anyone wants to see them, here are some recent examples of SCA
>>costuming, taken this past January:
>>
>><http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/>http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/
>>
>> >Even some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing better.
>>
>>
>>Agreed. While at first glance it all looks pretty and impressive, a 
>>closer look discovers all kinds of faults. Too much velvet and shiny 
>>satin (reminds me of curtains all the time), too many machine produced 
>>patterned materials and trims, too wide belts (and too many white ones as 
>>well, when are they stopping that stupid rule...), too much modern 
>>jewellery, too few female headkerchiefs, too little wool and linen, etc. 
>>etc. Overall I see things getting better with the SCA, but this is really 
>>too much 'creative anachronism'. By the way: why do SCAdians not study 
>>the way medieval and renaissance people were named; it still is more 
>>fantasy than reality. And for God's sake, why don't they take off their 
>>glasses when they get their picture taken!

My only point is - you should have seen the level ten years ago, if you 
find so much to complain about now.  Twenty years ago it was worse 
yet.  Thirty years ago, just after I joined, it was awful.


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 09:45:04 -0400
Status: RO



Hello Truly!   Your hats are just GORGEOUS!  I got a chance to look at them
up close and personal at Gulf Wars.
  Love to learn from you too.

Crissy

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From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1666 Stuf coat??
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Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 21:33:37 -0400
Status: RO

Hi,
	I'm hoping you learned folks in 17th cent stuff can help my 
cousin and me out with a genealogy curiosity. We have a will 
from 1666 (You can see it at
http://www.oldwaylane.net/BenjaminWilson1666.html) and we 
are wondering what a 'stuf coat' is! In the 4th line there 
is a blob of ink, right near where it looks like "stuf' 
coat. It says it again in the line just below. Is this some 
sort of coat, or are we reading the handwriting wrong? Any 
sharp eyes out there??
	Thanks for any help,
	Judy Mitchell


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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 09:16:18 +0000
Status: RO

'Stuf' is 'any old cloth' i.e. wool. The same goes for 'cloth' which means 
wool. The meaning of the words have changed over the hundreds of years. 
'Stuf' is not a particulaly good wool like a melton would be, a fine 
broadcloth etc.

David


From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>
Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1666 Stuf coat??
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 21:33:37 -0400

Hi,
	I'm hoping you learned folks in 17th cent stuff can help my
cousin and me out with a genealogy curiosity. We have a will
from 1666 (You can see it at
http://www.oldwaylane.net/BenjaminWilson1666.html) and we
are wondering what a 'stuf coat' is! In the 4th line there
is a blob of ink, right near where it looks like "stuf'
coat. It says it again in the line just below. Is this some
sort of coat, or are we reading the handwriting wrong? Any
sharp eyes out there??
	Thanks for any help,
	Judy Mitchell


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi,

You wrote:
  >Well I gave taking off my glasses in the  early digits of the SCA.  =
We were doing a fashion show as part of a TV broadcast and they =
convinced me to go without my glasses...almost fell off the stage =
getting off could not find the stairs :)

  There's an easy trick to that: keep your glasses in a purse or bag at =
your belt and put 'em on when things get hairy sightwise.


  Henk


  Visit the colourful tScapreel website;
  Separate English pages clickable from the Dutch homepage=20
  Now on our very own domain: www.scapreel.nl

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<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>&gt;Well I gave =
taking off my=20
  glasses in the&nbsp; early digits of the SCA.&nbsp; We were doing a =
fashion=20
  show as part of a TV broadcast and they convinced me to go without my=20
  glasses...almost fell off the stage getting off could not find the =
stairs=20
  :)<BR><BR>There's an easy trick to that: keep your glasses in a purse =
or bag=20
  at your belt and put 'em on when things get hairy=20
  sightwise.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Visit the colourful tScapreel website;<BR>Separate English pages=20
  clickable from the Dutch homepage <BR>Now on our very own domain: <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.scapreel.nl">www.scapreel.nl</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></B=
ODY></HTML>

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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Heather,

You wrote:
  >Why do you assume that nobody is studying this?

  I don't. The question could be rephrased: if so many SCAdians study =
names, why are so many names still oddly fantastic.


  >  Some of us do -- in=20
  fact, some of us do it professionally in the Real World.  Just=20
  because not _everyone_ in a group is doing something doesn't mean=20
  that _nobody_ in the group is doing it. =20


  When criticising such a large group, the small percentage that strives =
to be authentic (and I'm aware of this fact) and works at it will feel =
attacked. So be it. I was reacting to the pictures in the site Kayta =
asked us to look at and I noticed some things, about which I made some =
comments. For the rest: see my answer to Kayta in a separate post.


  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)

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<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Heather,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&gt;Why do you assume that nobody is studying this?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I don't. The question could be rephrased: if so many SCAdians =
study=20
  names, why are so many names still oddly fantastic.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&gt;&nbsp; Some of us do -- in <BR>fact, some of us do it =
professionally=20
  in the Real World.&nbsp; Just <BR>because not _everyone_ in a group is =
doing=20
  something doesn't mean <BR>that _nobody_ in the group is doing =
it.&nbsp;=20
</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>When criticising such a large group, the small percentage that =
strives=20
  to&nbsp;be authentic (and I'm aware of this fact) and&nbsp;works at it =
will=20
  feel attacked. So be it. I was reacting to the pictures in the site =
Kayta=20
  asked us to look at and I noticed some things, about which I made some =

  comments. For the rest: see my answer to Kayta in a separate =
post.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Kayta,

You wrote:
  >My only point is - you should have seen the level ten years ago, if =
you=20
  find so much to complain about now.  Twenty years ago it was worse=20
  yet.  Thirty years ago, just after I joined, it was awful.


  Oh, but I have. My first acquaintance with the SCA was in 1970, both =
Ren Fairs (Paramount Ranch, St Rafael) in CA. I wasn't into medieval =
dress than, but I took pictures and looking at them now, boy, were they =
a cross between hippie-outfits and Hollywood-medieval (some even going =
so far as to rent or buy stuff from MGM costume departments). I saw the =
English SCAdians in 1987 and not much was different and by 1989 a Dutch =
branch was formed. I attended a weekend in a Scouting camp with a mixed =
US, German and Dutch group (Drachenwald and Polderslot) and, being more =
knowledgeable about medieval costume by that time, I was really =
horrified by the standard of dress (and the rules and by-laws). I formed =
my own medieval society in protest against the attitude of the SCA and =
we strove to get more and more authentic. The LHO has just come into its =
12th year now (see http://www.dsdelft.nl/~lho/).

  Through the years after 1991 I have met and seen members of the SCA =
and, frankly, I have never been impressed with them. Just lately the =
Dutch branch is getting more 'authentic' in dress and activities, =
probably influenced by the standards in the re-enactment and LH world =
over here. But when I see USA SCAdians in the pictures on their diverse =
sites, I am always struck by the way it has really not changed much from =
10, 20 or even 30 years ago. OK: garments are made better and from =
heavier cloth, there are more patterns available, there are costume =
lists and sites, and I know that in the States wool, linen en other =
authentic stuff is harder to get than in Europe, but I still believe =
that the way most US citizens look at the Middle Ages is influenced more =
by Hollywood than by historic and archeological research, even if =
members of the SCA are working in these fields and try to do it better. =
The vast majority are in the SCA to have fun, to act in a courtly manner =
amongst each other playing aristocrats, to have great feasts and =
wonderful Pennsics and tournaments, crownings and courts and camps and =
to strut their stuff at Ren Fairs and to have a wonderful time doing all =
this. I'm not jealous, I think they should do that and have an escape =
from daily life doing it. Judging by the portraits on the site of the =
West Kingdom these are all very nice and warm people, but IMO they're =
not doing the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, they're doing 'creative =
anachronism', which term in itself excludes the wish for authenticity.

  So why did I criticise them? Just for having a rant I suppose. Sorry, =
I had not slept well the night before that. Forget what I said. I won't =
do it again.


  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)


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<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Kayta,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&gt;My only point is - you should have seen the level ten years =
ago, if=20
  you <BR>find so much to complain about now.&nbsp; Twenty years ago it =
was=20
  worse <BR>yet.&nbsp; Thirty years ago, just after I joined, it was=20
  awful.<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Oh, but I have. My first acquaintance with the SCA was in 1970, =
both Ren=20
  Fairs (Paramount Ranch, St Rafael) in CA. I wasn't into medieval dress =
than,=20
  but I took pictures and looking at them now, boy, were they a cross =
between=20
  hippie-outfits and Hollywood-medieval (some even going so far as to =
rent or=20
  buy stuff from MGM costume departments). I saw the English SCAdians in =
1987=20
  and not much was different and by 1989 a Dutch branch was formed. I =
attended a=20
  weekend in a Scouting camp with a mixed US, German and Dutch group=20
  (Drachenwald and Polderslot) and,&nbsp;being more&nbsp;knowledgeable =
about=20
  medieval costume by that time, I was really horrified by the standard =
of dress=20
  (and&nbsp;the rules and by-laws). I formed my own medieval society in =
protest=20
  against the attitude of the SCA and we strove to get more and more =
authentic.=20
  The LHO has just come into its 12th year now (see <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.dsdelft.nl/~lho/">http://www.dsdelft.nl/~lho/</A>).</D=
IV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Through the years after 1991 I have met and seen members of the =
SCA and,=20
  frankly, I have never been impressed with them. Just lately the Dutch =
branch=20
  is getting more 'authentic' in dress and activities, probably =
influenced by=20
  the standards in the re-enactment and LH world over here. But when I =
see USA=20
  SCAdians in the pictures on their diverse sites, I am always struck by =
the way=20
  it has really not changed much from 10, 20 or even 30 years ago. OK: =
garments=20
  are made better and from heavier cloth, there are more patterns =
available,=20
  there are costume lists and sites, and I know that in the States wool, =
linen=20
  en other authentic stuff is harder to get than in Europe, but I still =
believe=20
  that the way most US citizens look at the Middle Ages is influenced =
more by=20
  Hollywood than by historic and archeological research, even if members =
of the=20
  SCA are working in these fields and try to do it better. The vast =
majority are=20
  in the SCA to have fun, to act in a courtly manner amongst each other =
playing=20
  aristocrats, to have great feasts and wonderful Pennsics and =
tournaments,=20
  crownings and courts and camps and to strut their stuff at Ren Fairs =
and to=20
  have a wonderful time doing all this. I'm not jealous, I think they =
should do=20
  that and have an escape from daily life doing it. Judging by the =
portraits on=20
  the site of the West Kingdom these are all very nice and warm people, =
but IMO=20
  they're not doing the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, they're doing =
'creative=20
  anachronism', which term in itself excludes the wish for =
authenticity.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>So why did I criticise them? Just for having a rant I suppose. =
Sorry, I=20
  had not slept well the night before that. Forget what I said. I won't =
do it=20
  again.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)<BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:06:46 +0100
Status: RO

On 6 May 2002 at 11:49, Henk 't Jong - tScapreel 
wrote:

> Hi,
> You wrote:
>     >Well I gave taking off my glasses in the early digits of the SCA. We were doing a 
>     fashion show as part of a TV broadcast and they convinced me to go without my 
>     glasses...almost fell off the stage getting off could not find the stairs :)
>     
>     There's an easy trick to that: keep your glasses in a purse or bag at your belt and put 'em 
>     on when things get hairy sightwise.

When did specs suitable for wearing all the time, not 
just holding up to one's nose, come in?

I've been told it was surprisingly early, but this was 
by someone who was trying to sell me some 
"medieval spectacles" and would do them to my 
prescription. Which sounds great, but they may have 
been biased :(



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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 04:12:51 -0700
Status: RO


>>Through the years after 1991 I have met and seen members of the SCA and, 
>>frankly, I have never been impressed with them.

Gosh - I'll just have to show you my next SCA outfit and see what you think.

>>OK: garments are made better and from heavier cloth, there are more 
>>patterns available, there are costume lists and sites, and I know that in 
>>the States wool, linen en other authentic stuff is harder to get than in 
>>Europe, but I still believe that the way most US citizens look at the 
>>Middle Ages is influenced more by Hollywood than by historic and 
>>archeological research, even if members of the SCA are working in these 
>>fields and try to do it better.

I can't force those people to raise their standards.  My point is that 
there are more of us nowadays that have higher standards than there were 30 
years ago.  The best have gotten better.  The top end is higher.  I guess 
I'll have to show you a picture of my first SCA outfit as well, for 
comparison.  You'll hate it - I do.  It's pretty awful, but still it was 
more authentic than most of what SCA folks were wearing where I was in 1971.

>>The vast majority

I'm not one of that majority, and never have been.  But, as I said, you can 
decide how you like my next SCA outfit when you see it.  Or I can show you 
my last Ren. Fair outfit.  Shall I send it directly to you, as an 
attachment?  Anyone else want to see it too, so you'd know what Henk would 
be reacting to?

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 13:35:35 +0200
Status: RO

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--B_3103536935_982870
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Hi Henk!
> =20
> Kayta wrote:
>>> >My only point is - you should have seen the level ten years ago, if yo=
u
>> find so much to complain about now.  Twenty years ago it was worse
>> yet.  Thirty years ago, just after I joined, it was awful.
>> =20
>> Through the years after 1991 I have met and seen members of the SCA and,
>> frankly, I have never been impressed with them. Just lately the Dutch br=
anch
>> is getting more 'authentic' in dress and activities, probably influenced=
 by
>> the standards in the re-enactment and LH world over here.
You missed a great wedding and Peasant Beltane event in Polderslot this
weekend! There were tons of very wonderful incredibly authentic costumes
(even non-SCA people who came to this there first medieval event had stuff
that was incredibly cool thanks to Deredere=B9s tutelage. There was no mundan=
e
clothing during the event and many first-timers probably had better stuff
than even Kayta=B9s first outfit ;)). =AD Deredere=B9s wedding dress being the
crown of them all! having watched and participated with the making of that
dress =AD there is not much anyone can do to make that outfit more authentic
than it is with the knowledge anyone has now. The young Queen Elizabeth
herself would have felt totally at home in Deredere=B9s silk dress with hand
embroidery! And Deredere has the documentation too! Even mine wasn=B9t too ba=
d
considering this is I my first attempt at Elizabethan (images forthcoming
from both me and Deredere). Many of use spent half the event comparing
authenticity notes =AD I have never been in any other reenactment groups or L=
H
whatevers. I think the =8Cinfluence=B9 just comes from people learning more
which inspires people to learn _even_ more =AD in Polderslot and in other
Shires in  Europe.
>>=20
>> people, but IMO they're not doing the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, th=
ey're
>> doing 'creative anachronism', which term in itself excludes the wish for
>> authenticity.
I would violently protest this statement. I have been in the SCA for a bit
over three years now and aside from a very few American Military members wh=
o
just was to drink and have fun, everybody I know (including myself) has bee=
n
trying to be authentic as possible given the individual level of knowledge,
ability and resources. It IS creative anachronism in that yes we are
focusing on bygone times and most definitely creative especially when you
are trying to recreate something that hasn=B9t existed for hundreds of years
using methods long forgotten and buried, with materials no one makes anymor=
e
unless you do it yourself.

Yes the social structure is a bit artificial, but hey, that is one bit of
authenticity which just won=B9t work considering we all live in two or more
worlds which we have to balance and still get some sleep and make some mone=
y
(so we can do more garb ;)))
>> =20
>> So why did I criticise them? Just for having a rant I suppose. Sorry, I =
had
>> not slept well the night before that. Forget what I said. I won't do it
>> again.
Go get some sleep.

Cass :) 

--B_3103536935_982870
Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">Hi Henk!<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"> <BR>
Kayta wrote:<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">&gt;My only point is - you should h=
ave seen the level ten years ago, if you <BR>
find so much to complain about now. &nbsp;Twenty years ago it was worse <BR=
>
yet. &nbsp;Thirty years ago, just after I joined, it was awful.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
Through the years after 1991 I have met and seen members of the SCA and, fr=
ankly, I have never been impressed with them. Just lately the Dutch branch i=
s getting more 'authentic' in dress and activities, probably influenced by t=
he standards in the re-enactment and LH world over here. <BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">You missed a great we=
dding and Peasant Beltane event in Polderslot this weekend! There were tons =
of very wonderful incredibly authentic costumes (even non-SCA people who cam=
e to this there first medieval event had stuff that was incredibly cool than=
ks to Deredere&#8217;s tutelage. There was no mundane clothing during the ev=
ent and many first-timers probably had better stuff than even Kayta&#8217;s =
first outfit ;)). &#8211; Deredere&#8217;s wedding dress being the crown of =
them all! having watched and participated with the making of that dress &#82=
11; there is not much anyone can do to make that outfit more authentic than =
it is with the knowledge anyone has now. The young Queen Elizabeth herself w=
ould have felt totally at home in Deredere&#8217;s silk dress with hand embr=
oidery! And Deredere has the documentation too! Even mine wasn&#8217;t too b=
ad considering this is I my first attempt at Elizabethan (images forthcoming=
 from both me and Deredere). Many of use spent half the event comparing auth=
enticity notes &#8211; I have never been in any other reenactment groups or =
LH whatevers. I think the &#8216;influence&#8217; just comes from people lea=
rning more which inspires people to learn _even_ more &#8211; in Polderslot =
and in other Shires in &nbsp;Europe.<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"><BR>
people, but IMO they're not doing the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, they'=
re doing 'creative anachronism', which term in itself excludes the wish for =
authenticity.<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">I would violently pro=
test this statement. I have been in the SCA for a bit over three years now a=
nd aside from a very few American Military members who just was to drink and=
 have fun, everybody I know (including myself) has been trying to be authent=
ic <I>as possible</I> given the individual level of knowledge, ability and r=
esources. It IS creative anachronism in that yes we are focusing on bygone t=
imes and most <I>definitely</I> creative especially when you are trying to r=
ecreate something that hasn&#8217;t existed for hundreds of years using meth=
ods long forgotten and buried, with materials no one makes anymore unless yo=
u do it yourself.<BR>
<BR>
Yes the social structure is a bit artificial, but hey, that is one bit of a=
uthenticity which just won&#8217;t work considering we all live in two or mo=
re worlds which we have to balance and still get some sleep and make some mo=
ney (so we can do more garb ;)))<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"> <BR>
So why did I criticise them? Just for having a rant I suppose. Sorry, I had=
 not slept well the night before that. Forget what I said. I won't do it aga=
in.<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">Go get some sleep.<BR=
>
<BR>
Cass :)</FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>


--B_3103536935_982870--

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 04:49:52 -0700
Status: RO


> >     There's an easy trick to that: keep your glasses in a purse or bag 
> at your belt and put 'em
> >     on when things get hairy sightwise.

For me, 'hairy sightwise' would be all the time.  I've been in bifocals 
since I was 10, and am literally blind without my glasses.  One time I 
tried walking without the glasses, at the old Black Point Ren. Fair 
site.  I stepped on a rock I didn't see and fell down in the dirt 
street.  I skinned one knee and both hands, sprained my ankle, and ripped 
my costume.  I couldn't see well enough to mend the costume without the 
glasses.  What did blind people do in your historical period?

>When did specs suitable for wearing all the time, not
>just holding up to one's nose, come in?

I think it was the 1200's or 1300's, and they were none too common for 
centuries after that.  I've seen at least one H. Bosch painting with a 
glasses-wearer in it.  That pair had two round lens-holders with a hinge in 
the middle that goes over the bridge of the nose, see ASCII below.

  /\
O  O

>I've been told it was surprisingly early, but this was
>by someone who was trying to sell me some
>"medieval spectacles" and would do them to my
>prescription. Which sounds great, but they may have
>been biased :(

Check with the Rev. War suppliers.  Somebody makes these frames.  I've seen 
them in a catalog somewhere.

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 05:13:55 -0700
Status: RO


>  probably had better stuff than even Kayta s first outfit ;)

I'm laughing too.  As I learned what I should have done, I revised the 
dress several times, starting with the removal of the zipper.  But the 
inside is still pretty ugly, and nothing can undo the fact that it's 100% 
polyester poplin.

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 13:48:03 +0100
Status: RO

On 6 May 2002 at 4:49, Carolyn Kayta Barrows 
wrote:

> For me, 'hairy sightwise' would be all the time. 

Me too. I'm sufficiently short-sighted that the ground 
is too far away to see clearly.

> What did blind people do in your historical period?

Died?

 
> I think it was the 1200's or 1300's, and they were none too common for 
> centuries after that.  I've seen at least one H. Bosch painting with a 
> glasses-wearer in it.  That pair had two round lens-holders with a hinge in 
> the middle that goes over the bridge of the nose, see ASCII below.
> 
>   /\
> O  O

I've seen frames made like that on sale, yes. Anyone 
got a hint as to which picture?

 
> >I've been told it was surprisingly early, but this was
> >by someone who was trying to sell me some
> >"medieval spectacles" and would do them to my
> >prescription. Which sounds great, but they may have
> >been biased :(
> 
> Check with the Rev. War suppliers.  Somebody makes these frames.  I've seen 
> them in a catalog somewhere.

Several people make 'em: I just suspect that 
*because* they're trying to sell them, their research 
may be.. umm... optimistic?

On sale, I've seen wooden frames with the hinge as 
described, brass or pewter frames that look a lot like 
modern ones but without the side bars to go over the 
ears, and leather frames. All the sellers felt they had 
sufficient evidence to justify what they were doing. 
But they didn't, naturally enough, have it to hand :(




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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 15:40:04 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
Could this be a buff coat? A buff coat is a leather jacket. Sometimes it
has sleaves, and mostly it is without sleaves, like a waistcoat.

Bjarne

Judy Mitchell wrote:

> Hi,
>         I'm hoping you learned folks in 17th cent stuff can help my
> cousin and me out with a genealogy curiosity. We have a will
> from 1666 (You can see it at
> http://www.oldwaylane.net/BenjaminWilson1666.html) and we
> are wondering what a 'stuf coat' is! In the 4th line there
> is a blob of ink, right near where it looks like "stuf'
> coat. It says it again in the line just below. Is this some
> sort of coat, or are we reading the handwriting wrong? Any
> sharp eyes out there??
>         Thanks for any help,
>         Judy Mitchell
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 15:50:19 +0200
Status: RO

Sorry of the doubble posting. I forgot to mention that it also could be a
"stuffed" coat meaning it is lined with some interlinning of a kind, perhaps
wool.

Bjarne

Leif Drews wrote:

> Hello.
> Could this be a buff coat? A buff coat is a leather jacket. Sometimes it
> has sleaves, and mostly it is without sleaves, like a waistcoat.
>
> Bjarne
>
> Judy Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >         I'm hoping you learned folks in 17th cent stuff can help my
> > cousin and me out with a genealogy curiosity. We have a will
> > from 1666 (You can see it at
> > http://www.oldwaylane.net/BenjaminWilson1666.html) and we
> > are wondering what a 'stuf coat' is! In the 4th line there
> > is a blob of ink, right near where it looks like "stuf'
> > coat. It says it again in the line just below. Is this some
> > sort of coat, or are we reading the handwriting wrong? Any
> > sharp eyes out there??
> >         Thanks for any help,
> >         Judy Mitchell
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> --
>
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
>
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
>
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 15:50:41 +0100
Status: RO

Jane wrote:

>
> On sale, I've seen wooden frames with the hinge as
> described, brass or pewter frames that look a lot like
> modern ones but without the side bars to go over the
> ears, and leather frames. All the sellers felt they had
> sufficient evidence to justify what they were doing.
> But they didn't, naturally enough, have it to hand :(
>

Try "The Embroiderer's Story" by Thomasina Beck; she covers the use of
spectacles, and their type,  as a neccessary pre-requisite to the
craze for embroidery which swept England in the 16th century.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:32:12 EDT
Status: RO


On Scadian names...  My name in the SCA is Gillian Tedcastle.  Both given and 
surname were chosen from a list of compiled common names documented in 
Elizabethan England.  My fellow citizens of the barony pointed me to the 
website the first week I joined, so some people are trying very hard to teach 
period nomenclature.  Many Scadian personas predate published name research, 
though, and it hardly seems fair to make them change their names 10 years 
after their friends have finally accepted calling them "Radcliffe Rowdynads". 
 [Tongue firmly planted in cheek.]

On plastic pearls...  Here, I am less authentic.  I see no reason not to use 
faux pearls, especially given the large quantities of pearl seen in 
Elizabethan portraiture.  If I was forced to use only real pearls and gems on 
my creations, my budget would afford me a very plain gown indeed!  The trick 
is to cover that white string on pearl strand by-the-yard.  Lynn McMasters 
got excellent results couching pearl strand on with gold thread, and I've had 
nice results using a machine zigzag in black thread blending into a quilted 
black mock-velvet ground.  Individual faux pearls look fine at a 3-foot 
distance, as do rhinestones.  I don't suggest wearing pearl strand BTY as a 
necklace, though, because it looks skimpy with all the space between the 
"pearls" and doesn't weigh enough to hang correctly.  For necklaces, find 
heavier faux pearls and string them by hand.

On not enough linen/ too much velvet...  Materials on my current gown are not 
authentic.  Why?  1) Both wool and linen give me a rash.  Plenty of people 
have these allergies.  2)This is my first attempt at 1570's and I am 
focussing on fit first.   I'm making a toile in muslin first, but as a 
seamstress I know that will not tell me how the dress will wear after 5 or 10 
hours.  [Will I be fussing with the sleeves?  Will the gown's weight drag on 
my shoulders?]  3) Budget.  This dress will be in mock-velvet (panne' that is 
NOT crushed or stretchy) because I had a bolt of of the stuff that only cost 
me $24 total, so no worries if I totally screw up.  If I like the dress after 
an SCA event or 2, I'll take the toile pattern and make a gown in something 
like damask or velvet.   I disagree that there can ever be too much velvet -- 
but then, I'm a goth!  But anyway, those pics were all taken in the winter, 
and velvet is warm.

On glasses...  I buy disposable contacts just for SCA events, but there have 
been times I was unable to wear them cuz my eyes were irritated.  I do take 
the glasses off for pics, though.    The "keep 'em in a purse" thought is 
great for people who only need glasses to read, but I'm legally blind without 
mine.  "When things get hairy"?  That's any time I'm walking around without 
my glasses!  Many glasses-wearers can wear contacts for short periods, and 
disposables only worn for events will last you a while.  Totally worth the 
cash [even if you can't read with them due to astygmatism].

OK, I think that catches me up with the discussion.

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Washing wool in front-loading washers
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:16:49 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Hey, folks,
We just got a front-loading washer (the Maytag Neptune).  Are
front-loading washers more 'gentle' on woolens than top-loading machines,
since top-loaders tumble the fabric rather than agitating it with a
spindle?  I had a bad experience with washing wool last fall (in my old
top-loader); the wool was unevenly agitated, so that some spots shrunk
more than others and I had to work around the 'puckers'.

Thanks,
Mara



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:20:27 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Mon, 6 May 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> Check with the Rev. War suppliers.  Somebody makes these frames.  I've seen
> them in a catalog somewhere.
>
> Kayta

Townsend carries some:
http://www.jastown.com/acces/sp-789.html

-- Mara

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Subject: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:34:05 EDT
Status: RO

How is the fabric manipulation on this partlet done, do you think?  It looks 
a little puffy for just intersecting pintuks...  Any ideas?

http://www.marquise.de/images/1500/1570_3d.jpg

Incidentally, does the neckline look to you all more like woven trim 
embellished with buttons of pearl and gems, or a hard 
goldwork/bilament/"jewelled square"?  I do note her necklace matches the gown 
neckline, which I suppose could support the bilament concept.  I'm happy the 
gown has straps though, seeing as how I decided to do it on mine.

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 12:45:50 -0400
Status: RO

Ok... just feel compelled to "weigh in" here.

First off, I am actually not offended by anything that's been posted here on the
subject... just want to make a few comments  (I don't write well, and things don't
always read the way I write them).

1)  The only requirement for an SCA event is an *attempt* at period clothing.  This
means that if all you can do is a simple t-tunic over sweats, or plain pants, so be it
(and no, that's never been me, but it's the best I can get my husband into the very
few times I've gotten him to an event).

2)  Just because you study period clothing, and even know period techniques, it
doesn't necessarily mean that you'll be able to do something that truly looks period
(not to mention there's not much info. out there on some places, times and peoples).
Personally, I'm allergic to wool... so I have to find something similar.  It's nearly
impossible to find half decent colors in linen, or even linen-cotton at affordable
prices or not... even around the Washington DC area, and with the net (though the net
make it easier... a little)... Dying is something I've been looking into, but haven't
had a lot of luck so far.  Time is a factor, too.  I don't have thousands of hours to
do the embroidery or make the trim that I'd *like* to have.  And gee... I even heard a
few comments about "where'd she buy that trim" from someone who obviously thought that
it was machine made (not looking close) commenting on trim I made for someone elses's
outfit earlier this year.   I don't even have the time to do more handsewing than that
which would be visible..... and I have to admit to being guilty of making much more
nicely done hems (visibility wise) than any I've seen that are over 175 or so years
old... by hand.  Oh, and cost is very definitely a factor.  I *can't* afford to spend
hundreds on an outfit I'll wear only a couple of times a year, if that.  Most
expensive so far for me is this $120 or so (not on sale, unfortunately) fabric for the
new livery we're using for the re-enactment guild at my faire this year... lovely
taxicab yellow with black trim... Kytson colors, though most of us will look
absolutely awful in it.

3) Names... well, yes... it used to be pretty bad.  But now the SCA Heralds are a bit
better about avoiding the fantasy type names, and requiring documentation.  The
exception is that if you want to use either your first or last name, and it's
reasonably close to period, they'll let you (ie. I kept the spelling of "Elisabeth"
for my SCA name, though I've not been able to find any examples of it spelled that way
in England in the time period I was looking at).

4) Glasses....  Um...  Unless I'm sitting down at an event and sewing closely, you
*don't* want me wandering around without them.  Last time I did that was for a short
while at the Maryland Renaissance Festival in 2000, because I had managed to leave my
sunglasses on and my glasses ran off with my husband.... thankfully several weeks into
the faire, so I knew where most of the roots, holes, etc. were already.... and was
told to stay put more than usual for that morning till I could get in touch with him.
With the ability to focus all of 12 inches or so in front of my face, it'd be
downright dangerous to do much wandering... not to mention I'd miss pretty much
everything going on around me.  And while I'm really bad about curtseying to all those
"wearing pointies", I do try to remember to do so when I pass Their Majesties, or
their tent... and if I don't see them, I can't (no, I can't see well enough to tell if
that shiny thing on someone's head has pointies or not, unless they're *big*).


Anyways, tolerance is nice.  The folks who play in the SCA may have many hobbies
attatched to it... and at least one full time job on top of that.  Time and money do
have their limits.   *G*  It's the only thing keeping my stash of needlework and
sewing stuff small enough to fit in the one closet, personally...


Just something to think about...
-Elisabeth  (going back to normal quiet self now)
(in the SCA, Lady Elisabeth Henley.... of Lochmere, in the Kingdom of Atlantia)

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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 18:07:26 +0100
Status: RO

Gillian wrote:


> On plastic pearls...  Here, I am less authentic.  I see no reason
not to use
> faux pearls, especially given the large quantities of pearl seen in
> Elizabethan portraiture.  If I was forced to use only real pearls
and gems on
> my creations, my budget would afford me a very plain gown indeed!


But then, by definition, you are not attempting to reproduce a 16th
century costume.

>.  Individual faux pearls look fine at a 3-foot
> distance, as do rhinestones.

Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they don't...

> On not enough linen/ too much velvet...  Materials on my current
gown are not
> authentic...

You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything actually
worn in the 16th century.

best wishes
Stevie



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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 18:09:17 +0100
Status: RO

On 6 May 2002 at 12:45, Liz / Cozit wrote:

> 1)  The only requirement for an SCA event is an *attempt* at period clothing.  This
> means that if all you can do is a simple t-tunic over sweats, or plain pants, so be it
> (and no, that's never been me, but it's the best I can get my husband into the very
> few times I've gotten him to an event).

The society I'm in isn't the SCA, but it's similar 
enough that a lot of this is true for us, too. One other 
point to add that I suspect will also apply to the SCA 
is that different people have different areas of 
expertise. At the moment, my personal costume is of 
the level of "probably won't offend anyone who 
doesn't look too closely". No zips or elastic, but other 
than that: medieval-ish. I've been concentrating on 
cooking as authentically as possible, not on 
costume. Other have been concentrating on music, 
or brewing, or weapons.... you can't be an expert on 
everything, there isn't time.

I hope my costume will improve, though: that's why 
I'm here, to impress myself with the vastness of my 
ignorance :)


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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 13:11:43 EDT
Status: RO


<< Anyone else want to see it too, so you'd know what Henk would 
 be reacting to? >>

Kayta, do you really have to ask?  Of course we wanna see!  :) My e-mail's in 
the header...

--Gillian
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 13:27:14 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/6/02 12:18:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<<  Are
 front-loading washers more 'gentle' on woolens than top-loading machines,
 since top-loaders tumble the fabric rather than agitating it with a
 spindle? >>

I can't answer that, but let me drop some advice about dye.  I do not suggest 
dying fabric in your new washer.  Why?  You can't prefill the washer with 
water to mix the dye before inserting the wet fabric.  (Once it's full of 
water, you can't open the door.) This'll seem obvious to some of you, but 
don't laugh!  I've seen people try to just add liquid dye into the soap tray 
in side-loading washers before!  The result is a  splotchy mess.

--Gillian
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 13:28:08 EDT
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--part1_17d.7eee1eb.2a081728_boundary
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In a message dated 5/6/2002 12:35:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Azelana@aol.com writes:


> How is the fabric manipulation on this partlet done, do you think?  It looks 
> a little puffy for just intersecting pintuks...  Any ideas?
> 

An innerlining of....bubble plastic?

Pop....pop....pop......

--part1_17d.7eee1eb.2a081728_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 5/6/2002 12:35:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Azelana@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">How is the fabric manipulation on this partlet done, do you think? &nbsp;It looks 
<BR>a little puffy for just intersecting pintuks... &nbsp;Any ideas?
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>An innerlining of....bubble plastic?
<BR>
<BR>Pop....pop....pop......</FONT></HTML>

--part1_17d.7eee1eb.2a081728_boundary--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (and allergies)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:22:36 -0500
Status: RO

I have to ask a couple of questions regarding the whole allergy thing.
Now I will start off by saying that I personally have no experience with
them- I'm not even allergic to poison ivy! And I have heard of people
having allergies to wool, although I have also heard theories that a
sizable portion of those who believe they are allergic to wool may
actually be reacting to chemicals used to process the wool or to the
scratchiness of inferior grades of wool. I have never before heard of
someone being allergic to linen! How does that happen? I thought that
linen was almost perfectly neutral and inert, it certainly should have
long enough fibers that the prickly ends wouldn't be a problem. I've
never felt a decent linen that was the least bit scratchy, although some
really cheapo ones which are made with inferior/discards of linen can be
a just tad scratchy. This report of allergy to linen really seems like an
example where some particularly nasty chemicals might have been used to
process or dye the linen and the person might be reacting to the
chemicals and not the fiber itself. I really am interested in this, it's
a puzzle and I love puzzles. Has anyone else ever had an allergic
reaction to linen or have enough experience with allergies to be able to
sort out what aspect of the linen might be causing the allergic reaction?



Karen

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From: "Avien" <AvienDiora@mcleodusa.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (and allergies)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:42:02 -0500
Status: RO

I certainly don't have first-hand experience with allergies to fibers but my
husband had a terrible reaction to linen.  I made a shirt for him to wear
and not even an hour later he was scratching and miserable.  He had a
horrible rash too.  He took off the shirt and was fine, took awhile for the
rash to go away but he was okay for the rest of the day.  I washed the linen
with normal detergent, I wash everything before sewing it, so I know it
wasn't the detergent and I think that should have taken care of sizing and
other treatments the fabric companies use.  It felt soft to me and I had no
problems with the chemise I made out of the same stuff for me.  I hope that
he isn't allergic to linen because that was a great shirt that he loved
until he wore it, so if anyone else has any answers, I would love to hear
them too.



>I have to ask a couple of questions regarding the whole allergy thing.
>Now I will start off by saying that I personally have no experience with
>them- I'm not even allergic to poison ivy! And I have heard of people
>having allergies to wool, although I have also heard theories that a
>sizable portion of those who believe they are allergic to wool may
>actually be reacting to chemicals used to process the wool or to the
>scratchiness of inferior grades of wool. I have never before heard of
>someone being allergic to linen! How does that happen? I thought that
>linen was almost perfectly neutral and inert, it certainly should have
>long enough fibers that the prickly ends wouldn't be a problem. I've
>never felt a decent linen that was the least bit scratchy, although some
>really cheapo ones which are made with inferior/discards of linen can be
>a just tad scratchy. This report of allergy to linen really seems like an
>example where some particularly nasty chemicals might have been used to
>process or dye the linen and the person might be reacting to the
>chemicals and not the fiber itself. I really am interested in this, it's
>a puzzle and I love puzzles. Has anyone else ever had an allergic
>reaction to linen or have enough experience with allergies to be able to
>sort out what aspect of the linen might be causing the allergic reaction?
>
>
>
>Karen
>
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (and allergies)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 10:45:51 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

--- seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
[snip]
> having allergies to wool, although I have also heard theories that
> a
> sizable portion of those who believe they are allergic to wool may
> actually be reacting to chemicals used to process the wool or to
> the
> scratchiness of inferior grades of wool. I have never before heard
[snip]

I'm not personally allergic to wool, but my grandmother is, and the
problem is the LANOLIN, which occurs naturally in the wool. She
cannot use any lotions or cosmetics that contain lanolin, either. 

mirv


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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 13:53:32 -0400
Status: RO



Stevie Gamble wrote:

> 
> Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they don't...
> 

> 
> You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
> reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
> noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything actually
> worn in the 16th century.
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie



I have to say something here about faux stones and pearls.  I use them
as I need to or desire a certain look. I have learned recently lesser
nobles in fact did use faux pearls and stones.  I didn't say all the
time nor can I quote you a source other then my instructor. I will use
the real thing when I win the lottery.  Then too I will commission
someone else to do my sewing.  If I could afford a truely authenic gown
why would I be here to learn? I would have my hired seamtress make my
little hearts desire.  I am not being scarastic  just afraid any thing I
do will be looked down on. *sighs*  Maybe I should reemove the 1500
bridal pearls I recently finished adding to my kirtle. How discouraging. 

Di
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Remember how YahooGroups recently reset all members' email preferences
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Washing wool in front-loading washers
From: Maryanne Appleby <mffski@ptd.net>
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 14:00:59 -0400
Status: RO

> I can't answer that, but let me drop some advice about dye.  I do not suggest
> dying fabric in your new washer.  Why?  You can't prefill the washer with
> water to mix the dye before inserting the wet fabric.  (Once it's full of
> water, you can't open the door.)

Dear Gillian,

I have a Frigidaire front-loading washer, and I *can* open the door during
cycle.  The water level is always very low, lower than the door opening.

One of the reasons country people - those who rely on well-water - use these
machines is because they use so little water.

So, though I've never tried it, I believe that I *could* dye fabric in my
machine.

Maryanne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
In-Reply-To: <002d01c1f520$9e5c6b20$e5ba7ad5@dan> "from Stevie Gamble at May
 6, 2002 06:07:26 pm"
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:43:44 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Steve -- ever been to Spain?

They proudly boast about their fake-pearl industry, that's been
selling to Europe since the 16th century.  They're quite good enough
to fool the eye, and an appraiser or two.

.heather.




> Gillian wrote:
> 
> 
> > On plastic pearls...  Here, I am less authentic.  I see no reason
> not to use
> > faux pearls, especially given the large quantities of pearl seen in
> > Elizabethan portraiture.  If I was forced to use only real pearls
> and gems on
> > my creations, my budget would afford me a very plain gown indeed!
> 
> 
> But then, by definition, you are not attempting to reproduce a 16th
> century costume.
> 
> >.  Individual faux pearls look fine at a 3-foot
> > distance, as do rhinestones.
> 
> Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they don't...
> 
> > On not enough linen/ too much velvet...  Materials on my current
> gown are not
> > authentic...
> 
> You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
> reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
> noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything actually
> worn in the 16th century.
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing wool in front-loading washers
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.43.0205061214510.11689-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
 "from Kevin & Mara Riley at May 6, 2002 12:16:49 pm"
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:40:23 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I've had a much better experience with my front loading neptune and wool,
but I still test everything, and wash wool on the "hand wash" cycle.
it's the most gentle.

.heather.

> Hey, folks,
> We just got a front-loading washer (the Maytag Neptune).  Are
> front-loading washers more 'gentle' on woolens than top-loading machines,
> since top-loaders tumble the fabric rather than agitating it with a
> spindle?  I had a bad experience with washing wool last fall (in my old
> top-loader); the wool was unevenly agitated, so that some spots shrunk
> more than others and I had to work around the 'puckers'.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mara
> 
> 
> 
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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 11:42:50 -0700
Status: RO

Okay.  Here's the thing about reproducing a costume based upon an authentic 16th century counterpart.  It will never, ever in a million years be 100% authentic.  Allow me to rephrase that.  If you have enough money to be able to pay weavers to weave you cloth using an authentic loom, authentic fibers, and an authentic weave (which, if you are attempting to go for a spectacular court gown is going to cost serious cash), plus, afford natural pearls (not artificially seeded pearls that are most readily available), solid gold or silver settings for real, authentically cut gems, manpower to embroider the authentically reproduced fabric with 100% gold or silver bullion thread, then you have at least a running chance at getting an authentic gown. And even then, the fact that none of it was manufactured by authentic 16th century people takes you out of the running for it being 100% authentic. If, however, you are not Bill Gates with a time machine, you take what you can get and you !
make do with it.  I'd love to have my costumes researched and documented down the the very molecules that make them, but I'm pragmatic enough to understand that there's no way that will ever happen.  So, I chose (and not saying in anyway that this discredits what other people do or don't do with their costumes) to use store bought wool, linen and silks when I can afford it, and when I can't I opt for cotton velvets.  I use glass pearls and gems (which, yes, can be documented as used in the 16th century, but as stated before, are still modern equivillents to the period "real" thing) and either pewter (period), brass (period) or if I'm really rich that month, gold or silver plated settings.  Does this devalue my costume as a reproduction?  Nope.  Does this make my costume any more authentic than the person whose costume is made out of gold lame' and a simplicity pattern?  Nope.  If you're speaking strictly about authenticity, you can't judge everyone's costume according to fab!
ric choice and accessories, because, well, it's all machine-p!
roduced at some point in it's construction.  Unless you live on a sheep ranch and hand sheer your sheep, hand comb it, hand spin it, hand weave it, etc.  And that's also been known to happen.  But for the vast majority of people, this isn't an option.  End of story.  

So, please, refrain from the "more period than thou" attitude that I've witnessed from time to time on this list from people who seek any oppertunity to discredit the efforts of individuals in the SCA and other reenactment venues.  I have yet to see *any* reenactment group with 100% authentic clothing.  Let they who are without sin and all that good stuff...

Sarah Lorraine
(thankfully, flame retardant fabric is available these days)
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From: "David Angel Aware" <angel_aware@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 18:38:28 +0000
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>I have to say something here about faux stones and pearls. I use them </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>as I need to or desire a certain look. I have learned recently lesser 
<DIV></DIV>nobles in fact did use faux pearls and stones. I didn't say all the 
<DIV></DIV>time nor can I quote you a source other then my instructor. I will use 
<DIV></DIV>the real thing when I win the lottery. Then too I will commission 
<DIV></DIV>someone else to do my sewing. If I could afford a truely authenic gown 
<DIV></DIV>why would I be here to learn? I would have my hired seamtress make my 
<DIV></DIV>little hearts desire. I am not being scarastic just afraid any thing I 
<DIV></DIV>do will be looked down on. *sighs* Maybe I should reemove the 1500 
<DIV></DIV>bridal pearls I recently finished adding to my kirtle. How discouraging. 
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Di 
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Yes, faux pearls were used, but they were made from glass and coated inside with a shimmering substance similar to mother of pearl. They were not plastic, well, naturally.</DIV>
<DIV>There are high quality faux pearls available nowadays which are made in a similar way and are not plastic.</DIV>
<DIV>Furthermore, genuine pearls are available from Australia for a very cheap price, though of course using 1500 would not be cheap ever. The Australian ones are freshwater pearls but chosen for their regularity.</DIV>
<DIV>Apart from this there is a difference between costumes and period clothing. Most of what I see in the SCA&nbsp;are costumes, not period clothing, with some exceptions. I have seen a lot of truly lovely and stunning costumes, but they were costumes.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>David</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM102801/27'>http://explorer.msn.com</a>.<br></html>
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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA  costuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:16:59 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I haven't been reading the list lately because I've been so busy at
work, but I see there has been some SCA-bashing (or whatever you want
to call the age old argument about how "un-authentic" the SCA
is...)--and please, I am not asking for flames here, I just hate to
see that kind of talk because it's so very discouraging to the new
people. You have to start somewhere, and not everyone can spend
endless amounts of money on materials. Costuming is a very
challenging and time-consuming hobby and hearing things like (and I'm
paraphrasing here) "well, with all the substitutions you are making,
your outfit is never going to look authentic..."---Ah! That just
sends chills down my spine, even if it wasn't directed at me,
personally. And I assume that this type of comment was made without
even seeing the finished product! I'm not saying that we shouldn't
offer constructive criticism when it is asked for, because that is
helpful to the newcomer, but I will not be put down just because I
play in the SCA. You play your game, and I'll play mine, and that
doesn't make me any less of a costumer. Apologies if this is
off-base.

mirv


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
My EBay storefront: http://www.ebaystores.com/darkthreadsdesigns
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From: "Lyn Greaves- Thorny Rose" <rosamund@frontiernet.net>
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References: <d0.26d2c290.2a080a7d@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 14:08:41 -0400
Status: RO

Having coveted this portrait for a while. . .

I think it may be two layers- first one with holes slashed, second puffed
through.  If you look closely, there appears to be a line of fabric under
the beads that would be the structure, and the puffs are decorative.


Lyn Greaves
Lady Rosamund d'Alwareton, CM, OTerp, OSalamander

Remember: Amateurs built the ark, but professionals built the Titanic
----- Original Message -----
From: <Azelana@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 12:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] check out this partlet...


> How is the fabric manipulation on this partlet done, do you think?  It
looks
> a little puffy for just intersecting pintuks...  Any ideas?
>
> http://www.marquise.de/images/1500/1570_3d.jpg
>
> Incidentally, does the neckline look to you all more like woven trim
> embellished with buttons of pearl and gems, or a hard
> goldwork/bilament/"jewelled square"?  I do note her necklace matches the
gown
> neckline, which I suppose could support the bilament concept.  I'm happy
the
> gown has straps though, seeing as how I decided to do it on mine.
>
> --Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA
	costuming)
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 20:42:14 +0200
Status: RO

In response to Steve:

>> my creations, my budget would afford me a very plain gown indeed!
> But then, by definition, you are not attempting to reproduce a 16th
> century costume.
Well, it seems to me that you are using a definition of reproduction that
even museums are not able to live up to.

And 'attempting' is indeed what she is doing - regardless of the outcome.

If our goal is to 'reproduce' _everything_ down to the last molecule, we
might as well give up, go home and stick in a video, because it simply isn't
possible - if only because of the genetic development of organic materials
between now and back then.

Let us rephrase and say, we are attempting to reproduce the look and feel of
a 16th century costume to the best of our ability (everyone's ability being
different)

It would also be cool if we could continue suggesting ways of making things
more authentic with the budgets we have rather than just saying 'ewww that's
not authentic!'

>> .  Individual faux pearls look fine at a 3-foot
>> distance, as do rhinestones.
> Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they don't...
For my costume last weekend I had sewn on 1500 'Wachsperlen' on my
foreskirt, sleeves and hairpiece. They have a good weight and you have to
look quite closely to see that they are fake - everyone kept asking me if
they were real. I've also bought a number of glass pearl necklaces and took
them apart with the intention of making a belt (didn't managed to finish it
in time but whatever). They are definitely heavy enough and good looking
enough and it seems to me that I remember reading somewhere that they also
had glass pearls and lots of costume jewelry. Considering that Europe had
access to many fewer real pearls than we have today (in the age of cultured
pearls and diving equipment in areas of the world that weren't really well
known back then)

>> On not enough linen/ too much velvet...  Materials on my current
>> gown are not authentic...
> You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
> reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
> noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything actually
> worn in the 16th century.
I would also say it is a very broad loaded statement to say 'no'
resemblance. Unfortunately we do not have access to a real person from the
16th century to tell us for sure if what we choose bears a resemblance or
not. And what I think is an attempt on your part to sound objective about
this is coming across to some of us as criticism and a bit holier-than-thou.

My two Eurocents

Cassandra von Schwabing (a period name both first and last) who also wears
contact lenses whenever possible though it isn't always.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi,

You wrote:
  >When did specs suitable for wearing all the time, not=20
  just holding up to one's nose, come in?


  Very early on, I would say at the beginning of the 14th c. Glasses had =
been in use in Europe and China since the middle of the 13th c (Roger =
Bacon commented on them in 1268 as already existing for some time). =
Archbisshop Hugo de Provence in a fresco by Tomasso da Modena of 1352 is =
shown as writing, for which you needed both hands then and now) with the =
glasses fixed on his nose and many examples are to be seen of this =
method. Friends of mine who own glasses like this, made in bone, horn, =
leather or boxwood, found that these would not stay on your nose as =
such, and bound them to thier ears with strings, which works OK. See our =
website for several examples.


  >I've been told it was surprisingly early, but this was=20
  by someone who was trying to sell me some=20
  "medieval spectacles" and would do them to my=20
  prescription. Which sounds great, but they may have=20
  been biased :(


  If he was selling you glasses for personae post 1300 he was right.

  Mind you, glasses in the middle ages were only used to read and/or =
write with; i.o.w. for farsightedness. Nearsighted people had to wait =
until the beginning of the 16th c to be able to see better.


  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&gt;When did specs suitable for wearing all the time, not =
<BR>just=20
  holding up to one's nose, come in?<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Very early on, I would say at the beginning of the 14th c. =
Glasses had=20
  been in use in Europe and China since the middle of the 13th c (Roger =
Bacon=20
  commented on them in 1268 as already existing for some time). =
Archbisshop Hugo=20
  de Provence in a fresco by Tomasso da Modena of 1352 is shown as =
writing, for=20
  which you needed both hands then and&nbsp;now) with the glasses fixed =
on his=20
  nose and many examples are to be seen of this method. Friends of mine =
who own=20
  glasses like this, made in bone, horn, leather&nbsp;or boxwood, found =
that=20
  these would not stay on your nose as such, and bound them to thier =
ears with=20
  strings, which works OK. See our website for several examples.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR>&gt;I've been told it was surprisingly early, but this was =
<BR>by=20
  someone who was trying to sell me some <BR>"medieval spectacles" and =
would do=20
  them to my <BR>prescription. Which sounds great, but they may have =
<BR>been=20
  biased :(</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>If he was selling you glasses for personae post 1300 he was =
right.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Mind you, glasses in the middle ages were only used to read =
and/or write=20
  with; i.o.w. for farsightedness. Nearsighted people had to wait until =
the=20
  beginning of the 16th c to be able to see =
better.<BR><BR><BR>Henk<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.3.1.2.20020503133321.04cff220@mail.frys.com><4.3.1.2.20020504104615.04da0e70@mail.frys.com> <4.3.1.2.20020506034928.04ee7c30@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Kayta,

You wrote:
  >Gosh - I'll just have to show you my next SCA outfit and see what you =
think.


  I probably met the wrong people all the time ;-)


  > I can't force those people to raise their standards.  My point is =
that=20
  there are more of us nowadays that have higher standards than there =
were 30=20
  years ago.  The best have gotten better.  The top end is higher.  I =
guess=20
  I'll have to show you a picture of my first SCA outfit as well, for=20
  comparison.  You'll hate it - I do.  It's pretty awful, but still it =
was=20
  more authentic than most of what SCA folks were wearing where I was in =
1971.


  I would love to see it. Then again you should see the way I dressed in =
1991 as a 14th c herald! From 10 m it looked allright, but it was all =
cotton, had plastic buttons and my pouch was a greek souvenir. And it =
was a lot, a great lot more authentic than all teh stuff I saw the =
Drachenwald/Polderslot crowd wear (did they have buttons in the 14th c, =
one of them asked me!).


  >>The vast majority

  >I'm not one of that majority, and never have been.  But, as I said, =
you can=20
  decide how you like my next SCA outfit when you see it.  Or I can show =
you=20
  my last Ren. Fair outfit.  Shall I send it directly to you, as an=20
  attachment?  Anyone else want to see it too, so you'd know what Henk =
would=20
  be reacting to?


  Please do both as attachments!!! I would like that. I'll see if I can =
find my above mentioned outfit in a picture somewhere en post is too.


  Henk



  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)

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<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Kayta,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&gt;Gosh - I'll just have to show you my next SCA outfit and see =
what you=20
  think.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I probably met the wrong people all the time ;-)</DIV>
  <DIV><BR><BR>&gt; I can't force those people to raise their =
standards.&nbsp;=20
  My point is that <BR>there are more of us nowadays that have higher =
standards=20
  than there were 30 <BR>years ago.&nbsp; The best have gotten =
better.&nbsp; The=20
  top end is higher.&nbsp; I guess <BR>I'll have to show you a picture =
of my=20
  first SCA outfit as well, for <BR>comparison.&nbsp; You'll hate it - I =

  do.&nbsp; It's pretty awful, but still it was <BR>more authentic than =
most of=20
  what SCA folks were wearing where I was in 1971.<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I would love to see it. Then again you should see the way I =
dressed in=20
  1991 as a 14th c herald! From 10 m it looked allright, but it was all =
cotton,=20
  had plastic buttons and my pouch was a greek souvenir. And it was a =
lot, a=20
  great lot more authentic than all teh stuff I saw the =
Drachenwald/Polderslot=20
  crowd wear (did they have buttons in the 14th c, one of them asked =
me!).</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR>&gt;&gt;The vast majority<BR><BR>&gt;I'm not one of that =
majority,=20
  and never have been.&nbsp; But, as I said, you can <BR>decide how you =
like my=20
  next SCA outfit when you see it.&nbsp; Or I can show you <BR>my last =
Ren. Fair=20
  outfit.&nbsp; Shall I send it directly to you, as an =
<BR>attachment?&nbsp;=20
  Anyone else want to see it too, so you'd know what Henk would <BR>be =
reacting=20
  to?<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Please do both as attachments!!! I would like that. I'll see if I =
can=20
  find my above mentioned outfit in a picture somewhere en post is =
too.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Kayta,

You wrote:
  >For me, 'hairy sightwise' would be all the time.  I've been in =
bifocals=20
  since I was 10, and am literally blind without my glasses.  One time I =

  tried walking without the glasses, at the old Black Point Ren. Fair=20
  site.  I stepped on a rock I didn't see and fell down in the dirt=20
  street.  I skinned one knee and both hands, sprained my ankle, and =
ripped=20
  my costume.  I couldn't see well enough to mend the costume without =
the=20
  glasses.  What did blind people do in your historical period?


  Move very carefully if they did not know the terrain. Or they asked =
somebody to lead them somewhere.


  >Check with the Rev. War suppliers.  Somebody makes these frames.  =
I've seen=20
  them in a catalog somewhere.


  Rev War specs are different from medieval-ren glasses.


  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)

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<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Kayta,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&gt;For me, 'hairy sightwise' would be all the time.&nbsp; I've =
been in=20
  bifocals <BR>since I was 10, and am literally blind without my =
glasses.&nbsp;=20
  One time I <BR>tried walking without the glasses, at the old Black =
Point Ren.=20
  Fair <BR>site.&nbsp; I stepped on a rock I didn't see and fell down in =
the=20
  dirt <BR>street.&nbsp; I skinned one knee and both hands, sprained my =
ankle,=20
  and ripped <BR>my costume.&nbsp; I couldn't see well enough to mend =
the=20
  costume without the <BR>glasses.&nbsp; What did blind people do in =
your=20
  historical period?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Move very carefully if they did not know the terrain. Or they =
asked=20
  somebody to lead them somewhere.</DIV>
  <DIV><BR>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&gt;Check with the Rev. War suppliers.&nbsp; Somebody makes these =

  frames.&nbsp; I've seen <BR>them in a catalog somewhere.<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Rev War specs are different from medieval-ren glasses.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
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References: <B8FC3727.2FDB%cassandra@greer.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examplesHenk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Cass,

You wrote:
  >You missed a great wedding and Peasant Beltane event in Polderslot =
this weekend! There were tons of very wonderful incredibly authentic =
costumes (even non-SCA people who came to this there first medieval =
event had stuff that was incredibly cool thanks to Deredere's tutelage. =
There was no mundane clothing during the event and many first-timers =
probably had better stuff than even Kayta's first outfit ;)). - =
Deredere's wedding dress being the crown of them all! having watched and =
participated with the making of that dress - there is not much anyone =
can do to make that outfit more authentic than it is with the knowledge =
anyone has now. The young Queen Elizabeth herself would have felt =
totally at home in Deredere's silk dress with hand embroidery! And =
Deredere has the documentation too! Even mine wasn't too bad considering =
this is I my first attempt at Elizabethan (images forthcoming from both =
me and Deredere). Many of use spent half the event comparing =
authenticity notes - I have never been in any other reenactment groups =
or LH whatevers. I think the 'influence' just comes from people learning =
more which inspires people to learn _even_ more - in Polderslot and in =
other Shires in  Europe.


      I had the pleasure of meeting a group of Dutch SCAdians in =
Eindhoven on april 21st of this year and I was pleasantly surprised, as =
I told Gerard. It looked a lot better than I have ever seen before. I =
would love to see more and look forward to the pictures you mentioned.

  >I would violently protest this statement. I have been in the SCA for =
a bit over three years now and aside from a very few American Military =
members who just was to drink and have fun, everybody I know (including =
myself) has been trying to be authentic as possible given the individual =
level of knowledge, ability and resources. It IS creative anachronism in =
that yes we are focusing on bygone times and most definitely creative =
especially when you are trying to recreate something that hasn't existed =
for hundreds of years using methods long forgotten and buried, with =
materials no one makes anymore unless you do it yourself.


              You may protest, but I was reacting to a bunch of photos =
on a website, and remembered a similar set of a 12th night series of =
last year. And I wrote down what I saw....


  >Yes the social structure is a bit artificial, but hey, that is one =
bit of authenticity which just won't work considering we all live in two =
or more worlds which we have to balance and still get some sleep and =
make some money (so we can do more garb ;)))


                  This is just why the SCA will always balance between =
fantasy/Hollywood and historical reality. If everybody in the SCA has to =
be nobility and has to dress according to their status in =
medieval/renaissance times, you'll get shortcuts, cheap imitations and =
costume jewelry. The real stuff is just too expensive to imitate. If the =
SCA would loose that concept and go 'common', clothing would become a =
lot cheaper to make. I think it is just plain silly to win a crown and =
title in a tournament with rattan sticks.


  >Go get some sleep.


              I did, Am I making sense now?



  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)

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examples</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Cass,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <BLOCKQUOTE>
    <BLOCKQUOTE><FONT =
face=3DVerdana></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT=20
  face=3DVerdana>&gt;You missed a great wedding and Peasant Beltane =
event in=20
  Polderslot this weekend! There were tons of very wonderful incredibly=20
  authentic costumes (even non-SCA people who came to this there first =
medieval=20
  event had stuff that was incredibly cool thanks to Deredere&#8217;s =
tutelage. There=20
  was no mundane clothing during the event and many first-timers =
probably had=20
  better stuff than even Kayta&#8217;s first outfit ;)). &#8211; =
Deredere&#8217;s wedding dress=20
  being the crown of them all! having watched and participated with the =
making=20
  of that dress &#8211; there is not much anyone can do to make that =
outfit more=20
  authentic than it is with the knowledge anyone has now. The young =
Queen=20
  Elizabeth herself would have felt totally at home in Deredere&#8217;s =
silk dress=20
  with hand embroidery! And Deredere has the documentation too! Even =
mine wasn&#8217;t=20
  too bad considering this is I my first attempt at Elizabethan (images=20
  forthcoming from both me and Deredere). Many of use spent half the =
event=20
  comparing authenticity notes &#8211; I have never been in any other =
reenactment=20
  groups or LH whatevers. I think the &#8216;influence&#8217; just comes =
from people=20
  learning more which inspires people to learn _even_ more &#8211; in =
Polderslot and=20
  in other Shires in &nbsp;Europe.<BR></FONT>
  <BLOCKQUOTE>
    <BLOCKQUOTE>
      <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
      <DIV>I had the pleasure of meeting a group of Dutch SCAdians in =
Eindhoven=20
      on april 21st of this year and I was pleasantly surprised, as I =
told=20
      Gerard. It looked a lot better than I have ever seen before. I =
would love=20
      to see more and look forward to the pictures you mentioned.</DIV>
      <DIV><FONT =
face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana>&gt;I would violently protest this =
statement. I have=20
  been in the SCA for a bit over three years now and aside from a very =
few=20
  American Military members who just was to drink and have fun, =
everybody I know=20
  (including myself) has been trying to be authentic <I>as possible</I> =
given=20
  the individual level of knowledge, ability and resources. It IS =
creative=20
  anachronism in that yes we are focusing on bygone times and most=20
  <I>definitely</I> creative especially when you are trying to recreate=20
  something that hasn&#8217;t existed for hundreds of years using =
methods long=20
  forgotten and buried, with materials no one makes anymore unless you =
do it=20
  yourself.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT><FONT face=3DArial>You may protest, but I =
was reacting=20
  to a bunch of photos on a website, and remembered a similar set of a =
12th=20
  night series of last year. And I wrote down what I =
saw....</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana><BR><BR>&gt;Yes the social structure is a =
bit=20
  artificial, but hey, that is one bit of authenticity which just =
won&#8217;t work=20
  considering we all live in two or more worlds which we have to balance =
and=20
  still get some sleep and make some money (so we can do more garb=20
  ;)))</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; This is just why the SCA will always balance =
between=20
  fantasy/Hollywood and historical reality. If everybody in the SCA has =
to be=20
  nobility and has to dress according to their status in =
medieval/renaissance=20
  times, you'll get shortcuts, cheap imitations and costume jewelry. The =
real=20
  stuff is just too expensive to imitate. If the SCA would loose that =
concept=20
  and go 'common', clothing would become a lot cheaper to make. I think =
it is=20
  just plain silly to win a crown and title in a tournament with rattan=20
  sticks.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT><FONT =
face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana><FONT face=3DArial>&gt;</FONT>Go get some=20
  sleep.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I did, Am I making sense now?<BR></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <10d.11cd7e8d.2a07fbfc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Gilian,

You wrote:
  >On Scadian names...  My name in the SCA is Gillian Tedcastle. =20


  Good name!


  > Both given and=20
  surname were chosen from a list of compiled common names documented in =

  Elizabethan England.  My fellow citizens of the barony pointed me to =
the=20
  website the first week I joined, so some people are trying very hard =
to teach=20
  period nomenclature.  Many Scadian personas predate published name =
research,=20
  though, and it hardly seems fair to make them change their names 10 =
years=20
  after their friends have finally accepted calling them "Radcliffe =
Rowdynads".=20
   [Tongue firmly planted in cheek.]


  I don't see why you cannot change your 'play' name after 10 years, =
it's not so's you have to go to the government to do that? Change should =
always be possible. My 14th c patronym was 'Cornelissone' untio I found =
out that Cornelis only came in use in the 15th c in my province, so I =
changed it to 'Costijnssoen'. No problem.


  >On plastic pearls...  Here, I am less authentic.  I see no reason not =
to use=20
  faux pearls, especially given the large quantities of pearl seen in=20
  Elizabethan portraiture.  If I was forced to use only real pearls and =
gems on=20
  my creations, my budget would afford me a very plain gown indeed!  The =
trick=20
  is to cover that white string on pearl strand by-the-yard.  Lynn =
McMasters=20
  got excellent results couching pearl strand on with gold thread, and =
I've had=20
  nice results using a machine zigzag in black thread blending into a =
quilted=20
  black mock-velvet ground.  Individual faux pearls look fine at a =
3-foot=20
  distance, as do rhinestones.  I don't suggest wearing pearl strand BTY =
as a=20
  necklace, though, because it looks skimpy with all the space between =
the=20
  "pearls" and doesn't weigh enough to hang correctly.  For necklaces, =
find=20
  heavier faux pearls and string them by hand.


  See what I wrote about portraying aristocracy in another post.


  > On not enough linen/ too much velvet...  Materials on my current =
gown are not=20
  authentic.  Why?  1) Both wool and linen give me a rash.  Plenty of =
people=20
  have these allergies.=20

  Why is taht so in the USA? I have not heard of it overhere, Do they do =
something with wool over there? Besides, wool is the outer layer, linen =
goes against the skin. Nobody is allergic to linen, are they?


   2)This is my first attempt at 1570's and I am=20
  focussing on fit first.   I'm making a toile in muslin first, but as a =

  seamstress I know that will not tell me how the dress will wear after =
5 or 10=20
  hours.  [Will I be fussing with the sleeves?  Will the gown's weight =
drag on=20
  my shoulders?]  3) Budget.  This dress will be in mock-velvet (panne' =
that is=20
  NOT crushed or stretchy) because I had a bolt of of the stuff that =
only cost=20
  me $24 total, so no worries if I totally screw up.  If I like the =
dress after=20
  an SCA event or 2, I'll take the toile pattern and make a gown in =
something=20
  like damask or velvet.   I disagree that there can ever be too much =
velvet --=20
  but then, I'm a goth!  But anyway, those pics were all taken in the =
winter,=20
  and velvet is warm.


  No comment on this.


  >On glasses...  I buy disposable contacts just for SCA events, but =
there have=20
  been times I was unable to wear them cuz my eyes were irritated.  I do =
take=20
  the glasses off for pics, though.    The "keep 'em in a purse" thought =
is=20
  great for people who only need glasses to read, but I'm legally blind =
without=20
  mine.  "When things get hairy"?  That's any time I'm walking around =
without=20
  my glasses!  Many glasses-wearers can wear contacts for short periods, =
and=20
  disposables only worn for events will last you a while.  Totally worth =
the=20
  cash [even if you can't read with them due to astygmatism].


  I wasn't commenting on wearing glasses ALLl the time if you need them. =
Just take them off when your picture is taken or when you give a press =
conference (and don't have to read something from a paper). I other =
words: when you want to look like a historic person for the outsiders =
take them off, when you're amongst yourselves, sure, leave them on. =
There's more to playing a historic character than putting on a =
'costume'...



  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)

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<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Gilian,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV>&gt;On Scadian names...&nbsp; My name in the SCA is Gillian=20
  Tedcastle.&nbsp; </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Good name!</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&gt; Both given and <BR>surname were chosen from a list of =
compiled=20
  common names documented in <BR>Elizabethan England.&nbsp; My fellow =
citizens=20
  of the barony pointed me to the <BR>website the first week I joined, =
so some=20
  people are trying very hard to teach <BR>period nomenclature.&nbsp; =
Many=20
  Scadian personas predate published name research, <BR>though, and it =
hardly=20
  seems fair to make them change their names 10 years <BR>after their =
friends=20
  have finally accepted calling them "Radcliffe Rowdynads". =
<BR>&nbsp;[Tongue=20
  firmly planted in cheek.]</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I don't see why you cannot change your 'play' name after 10 =
years, it's=20
  not so's you have to go to the government to do that? Change should =
always be=20
  possible. My 14th c patronym was 'Cornelissone' untio I found out that =

  Cornelis only came in use in the 15th c in my province, so I changed =
it to=20
  'Costijnssoen'. No problem.</DIV>
  <DIV><BR><BR>&gt;On plastic pearls...&nbsp; Here, I am less =
authentic.&nbsp; I=20
  see no reason not to use <BR>faux pearls, especially given the large=20
  quantities of pearl seen in <BR>Elizabethan portraiture.&nbsp; If I =
was forced=20
  to use only real pearls and gems on <BR>my creations, my budget would =
afford=20
  me a very plain gown indeed!&nbsp; The trick <BR>is to cover that =
white string=20
  on pearl strand by-the-yard.&nbsp; Lynn McMasters <BR>got excellent =
results=20
  couching pearl strand on with gold thread, and I've had <BR>nice =
results using=20
  a machine zigzag in black thread blending into a quilted <BR>black =
mock-velvet=20
  ground.&nbsp; Individual faux pearls look fine at a 3-foot =
<BR>distance, as do=20
  rhinestones.&nbsp; I don't suggest wearing pearl strand BTY as a =
<BR>necklace,=20
  though, because it looks skimpy with all the space between the =
<BR>"pearls"=20
  and doesn't weigh enough to hang correctly.&nbsp; For necklaces, find=20
  <BR>heavier faux pearls and string them by hand.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>See what I wrote about portraying aristocracy in another =
post.</DIV>
  <DIV><BR><BR>&gt; On not enough linen/ too much velvet...&nbsp; =
Materials on=20
  my current gown are not <BR>authentic.&nbsp; Why?&nbsp; 1) Both wool =
and linen=20
  give me a rash.&nbsp; Plenty of people <BR>have these =
allergies.&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Why is taht so in the USA? I have not heard of it overhere, Do =
they do=20
  something with wool over there? Besides, wool is the outer layer, =
linen goes=20
  against the skin. Nobody is allergic to linen, are they?</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;2)This is my first attempt at 1570's and I am <BR>focussing =
on fit=20
  first.&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm making a toile in muslin first, but as a =
<BR>seamstress=20
  I know that will not tell me how the dress will wear after 5 or 10=20
  <BR>hours.&nbsp; [Will I be fussing with the sleeves?&nbsp; Will the =
gown's=20
  weight drag on <BR>my shoulders?]&nbsp; 3) Budget.&nbsp; This dress =
will be in=20
  mock-velvet (panne' that is <BR>NOT crushed or stretchy) because I had =
a bolt=20
  of of the stuff that only cost <BR>me $24 total, so no worries if I =
totally=20
  screw up.&nbsp; If I like the dress after <BR>an SCA event or 2, I'll =
take the=20
  toile pattern and make a gown in something <BR>like damask or=20
  velvet.&nbsp;&nbsp; I disagree that there can ever be too much velvet =
--=20
  <BR>but then, I'm a goth!&nbsp; But anyway, those pics were all taken =
in the=20
  winter, <BR>and velvet is warm.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>No comment on this.</DIV>
  <DIV><BR><BR>&gt;On glasses...&nbsp; I buy disposable contacts just =
for SCA=20
  events, but there have <BR>been times I was unable to wear them cuz my =
eyes=20
  were irritated.&nbsp; I do take <BR>the glasses off for pics,=20
  though.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The "keep 'em in a purse" thought is =
<BR>great for=20
  people who only need glasses to read, but I'm legally blind without=20
  <BR>mine.&nbsp; "When things get hairy"?&nbsp; That's any time I'm =
walking=20
  around without <BR>my glasses!&nbsp; Many glasses-wearers can wear =
contacts=20
  for short periods, and <BR>disposables only worn for events will last =
you a=20
  while.&nbsp; Totally worth the <BR>cash [even if you can't read with =
them due=20
  to astygmatism].</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I wasn't commenting on wearing glasses ALLl the time if you need =
them.=20
  Just take them off when your picture is taken or when you give a press =

  conference (and don't have to read something from a paper). I other =
words:=20
  when you want to look like a historic person for the outsiders take =
them off,=20
  when you're amongst yourselves, sure, leave them on. There's more to =
playing a=20
  historic character than putting on a 'costume'...</DIV>
  <DIV><BR><BR>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0128_01C1F540.9AA4FAE0--

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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:29:11 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



I'm trying to collect a list of sewing/costuming journals
(otherwise known as weblogs or blogs).  I know many have
been posted to the list... 

if you have one, or have a favorite, would you email me?  
alice@wonderland.com


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May  6 15:56:47 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 15:43:21 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Mon, 6 May 2002, Henk 't Jong - tScapreel wrote:
>   Rev War specs are different from medieval-ren glasses.
>
>   Henk

Townsend carries 15th c. specs in addition to their 18th c. specs.  I
agree, they are quite different.  (Townsend is by and large not bad, but I
really wish they'd take the English Bodice and French Bodice out of their
catalogue!  They are just NOT accurate...  sigh!)

Cheers,
Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA  costuming)
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 20:51:21 +0100
Status: RO

Dhannti wrote:

>
> Stevie Gamble wrote:
>
> >
> > Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they
don't...
> >
>
> >
> > You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
> > reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
> > noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything
actually
> > worn in the 16th century.
> >
> > best wishes
> > Stevie
>
>
>
> I have to say something here about faux stones and pearls.  I use
them
> as I need to or desire a certain look. I have learned recently
lesser
> nobles in fact did use faux pearls and stones.  I didn't say all the
> time nor can I quote you a source other then my instructor. I will
use
> the real thing when I win the lottery.  Then too I will commission
> someone else to do my sewing.  If I could afford a truely authenic
gown
> why would I be here to learn? I would have my hired seamtress make
my
> little hearts desire.  I am not being scarastic  just afraid any
thing I
> do will be looked down on. *sighs*  Maybe I should reemove the 1500
> bridal pearls I recently finished adding to my kirtle. How
discouraging.
>

People did use faux pearls; there are a fascinating series of methods
used to make them, and even Leonardo d'a Vinci had his own pet method.
They didn't, however, look anything like plastic pearls and if you are
looking for accuracy then you would have to reconstruct the faux
pearls using the methods of the time. Similarly, paste or strass was
used for jewels, but good paste is expensive and jewels were certainly
not made from plastic or ordinary glass.
Of course, if you've sewn 1500 hundred pearls by hand onto your kirtle
then in my view, you would be perfectly entitled to throttle anyone
objecting to them...

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Allergy to wool was Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:06:06 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Henk

>Why is taht so in the USA? I have not heard of it overhere, Do they do
something with wool over there? Besides, wool is the outer layer, linen goes
against the skin. Nobody is allergic to linen, are they?

Possibily the finishing in the US. It was very different both dye wise &
finish wise when I was working there 10 odd years ago.

Alex, my son, if hyper sensative to powders & finishes (among other things)
It isn't a true allergy to wool, but manifests itself as such. So I am
careful about what wools I clothe him in. I suspect it is a combination of
such factors & a lack of use to natural fibres in many cases.

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 23:09:36 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

On Mon, 6 May 2002, Henk 't Jong - tScapreel wrote:
>   attachment?  Anyone else want to see it too, so you'd know what Henk would 
>   be reacting to?
> 
>   Please do both as attachments!!! I would like that. I'll see if I can find my above mentioned outfit in a picture somewhere en post is too.

No, please post them on the web and link to them! I'm sure there's lots 
of us who'd like to see. I know I would. :)

Ingrid

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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:12:50 -0500
Status: RO

> Henk 't Jong - tScapreel wrote:

>      Why is taht so in the USA? I have not heard of it overhere,
>      Do they do something with wool over there? Besides, wool is
>      the outer layer, linen goes against the skin. Nobody is
>      allergic to linen, are they?

It's my understanding that what many people are allergic to are the
residual processing chemicals, rather than the wool itself.  Perhaps
it's processed differently in other countries.

--Charlene

-- 
You can fool too many people too much of the time.  -- James Thurber
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:21:10 -0500
Status: RO

Liz / Cozit wrote:

> 3) Names... well, yes... it used to be pretty bad.  But now the SCA Heralds are a bit
> better about avoiding the fantasy type names, and requiring documentation.  The
> exception is that if you want to use either your first or last name, and it's
> reasonably close to period, they'll let you (ie. I kept the spelling of "Elisabeth"
> for my SCA name, though I've not been able to find any examples of it spelled that way
> in England in the time period I was looking at).

Names are like clothing, there's not requirements.  The SCA does not
require you to register your name or armory (some kingdoms have added
such a required for some things such as fighting for Crown).  The
"modern name allowance" allows a person to use their modern name
regardless of it's resemblance to anything used in SCA-period. 
Basically, if someone wants an authentic name there are people very
eager and willing to help, but there is a difference between 'authentic'
and 'registrable'.

--Charlene

-- 
You can fool too many people too much of the time.  -- James Thurber
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 17:23:48 -0400
Status: RO

Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examplesGreetings--

>                This is just why the SCA will always balance between
fantasy/Hollywood >and historical reality. If everybody in the SCA has to be
nobility and has to dress >according to their status in medieval/renaissance
times, you'll get shortcuts, cheap >imitations and costume jewelry. The real
stuff is just too expensive to imitate. If the >SCA would loose that concept
and go 'common', clothing would become a lot cheaper >to make. I think it is
just plain silly to win a crown and title in a tournament with rattan
>sticks.

The thing with the SCA is that it really is a big umbrella group for a lot
of subgroups, many of whom like to get together and play. Its lack of focus
is both a strength and a weakness, depending on the perspective.

I'm seeing more and more people going for the "everyday" look (Drea's work
is just one good example) using wools and linens, correct headgear and
footwear, and so forth. And because it often looks really, really good (and
"right"), there are increasing numbers of people imitating them year after
year. That's the way things tend to go in the SCA, and while there's still
the assumption that "everyone is gentry-level", that's increasingly
interpreted to mean "we don't treat people like peasants" rather than "you
can't dress like a peasant or have a peasant persona."

Susan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (and allergies)
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:33:26 -0500
Status: RO



seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> 
> I have to ask a couple of questions regarding the whole allergy thing.
>....I have never before heard of someone being allergic to linen! How does that happen? I thought that
> linen was almost perfectly neutral and inert, ....
> Karen
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
>
Have you heard of anyone being allergic to aloe vera?  My daughter is,
she breaks out in hives if she uses it on her sunburns, and at times
when her system is sensitive, using a soap or shampoo with it in it
she'll also break out.  

You know that hypoallergenic steel that they use for earrings that no
one is suppose to be allergic to?  I am, if it's not sterling silver or
at least 14 carat gold plating, I can't wear those earring for more than
4 hours at a time.

I can't explain why some people may be allergic to some that few others
are, but it does happen... and yes I can sit in poison ivy without any
ill effect

Alex
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCAcostuming)
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 22:08:24 +0100
Status: RO

Cassandra wrote:

)


> In response to Steve:
>
> >> my creations, my budget would afford me a very plain gown indeed!
> > But then, by definition, you are not attempting to reproduce a
16th
> > century costume.
> Well, it seems to me that you are using a definition of reproduction
that
> even museums are not able to live up to.

No. Museums do not use plastic pearls and plastic fabrics when they
are seeking to represent the garments of a era long before plastic was
invented.

> And 'attempting' is indeed what she is doing - regardless of the
outcome.

No. She's not attempting to do it; she's saying, at the outset, that
she is going to do something different.

> If our goal is to 'reproduce' _everything_ down to the last
molecule,

This may be your goal, it's not mine. It's been a while since I last
looked at atomic structure, apart from in the context of metals, but
I'm pretty sure that molecules don't behave like that ...

>we might as well give up, go home and stick in a video, because it
simply isn't
> possible - if only because of the genetic development of organic
materials
> between now and back then.

I'm not sure who the we you are referring to is; I will simply
reiterate that whoever it is it doesn't include me.

> Let us rephrase and say, we are attempting to reproduce the look and
feel of
> a 16th century costume to the best of our ability (everyone's
ability being
> different)

Um, it's difficult to respond to the unspecified we; perhaps I should
talk about me.  I'm not suggesting that my goal is to reproduce
anything. My goal is to learn as much as I can about the way garments
were constructed and worn in the 16th and early 17th centuries in
England. H-cost is thus the ideal mailing list for me since it is
devoted to the study of costume in history, though of course, since it
covers all places in all eras I get led astray fairly frequently into
other fascinating areas.


> It would also be cool if we could continue suggesting ways of making
things
> more authentic with the budgets we have rather than just saying
'ewww that's
> not authentic!'

Since I have never said "ewww" (probably because the vowel sounds are
beyond me) and never used the word "authentic" perhaps you should
address yourself to whatever person you are confusing me with...

> >> .  Individual faux pearls look fine at a 3-foot
> >> distance, as do rhinestones.
> > Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they
don't...

> For my costume last weekend I had sewn on 1500 'Wachsperlen' on my
> foreskirt, sleeves and hairpiece. They have a good weight and you
have to
> look quite closely to see that they are fake - everyone kept asking
me if
> they were real.

Did the people in question know anything about pearls?

>I've also bought a number of glass pearl necklaces and took
> them apart with the intention of making a belt (didn't managed to
finish it
> in time but whatever). They are definitely heavy enough and good
looking
> enough and it seems to me that I remember reading somewhere that
they also
> had glass pearls and lots of costume jewelry.

I'm not sure who "they" are; pearls have been used, and faked,  for
millennia, and the term "costume jewellery" was not known in the
16-17th century in England.

 >Considering that Europe had
> access to many fewer real pearls than we have today (in the age of
cultured
> pearls and diving equipment in areas of the world that weren't
really well
> known back then)

I think you will find that the places were all very well known then;
at least they were to the people who lived in them. Pearls had been
traded for millennia, but European access  to the Venezualan
pearl-beds exponentially increased following Columbus' "Enterprise to
the Indies". If you are interested in actually learning something
about pearls and their use in the Renaissance then "Pearls: A Natural
History" by Landman, Mikkelsen, Bieler and Bronson, 2001, American
Museum of Natural History and the Field Museum, is a good place to
start. There are very large numbers of freshwater pearls available
today, thanks to the Chinese entry into large-scale perliculture, and
they are a great deal more accessible than the materials and methods
used to make fake pearls in the period that you are interested in.

> >> On not enough linen/ too much velvet...  Materials on my current
> >> gown are not authentic...
> > You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
> > reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
> > noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything
actually
> > worn in the 16th century.

> I would also say it is a very broad loaded statement to say 'no'
> resemblance. Unfortunately we do not have access to a real person
from the
> 16th century to tell us for sure if what we choose bears a
resemblance or
> not.

Well, if one comes along I shall be first in line to escort him/her
around the chemical works...

>And what I think is an attempt on your part to sound objective about
> this is coming across to some of us as criticism and a bit
holier-than-thou.

I see you are back to the unspecified we again; I do hope that you
don't turn out to be the Queen incognito.

best wishes
Stevie


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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 22:16:41 +0100
Status: RO

Heather wrote:


> Steve -- ever been to Spain?


> They proudly boast about their fake-pearl industry, that's been
> selling to Europe since the 16th century.  They're quite good enough
> to fool the eye, and an appraiser or two.

I fear that you have been misled; the Spaniards, and everyone else
with half a chance, has been faking pearls for a lot longer than a
mere five hundred years.


best wishes
Stevie

>
> > Gillian wrote:
> >
> >
> > > On plastic pearls...  Here, I am less authentic.  I see no
reason
> > not to use
> > > faux pearls, especially given the large quantities of pearl seen
in
> > > Elizabethan portraiture.  If I was forced to use only real
pearls
> > and gems on
> > > my creations, my budget would afford me a very plain gown
indeed!
> >
> >
> > But then, by definition, you are not attempting to reproduce a
16th
> > century costume.
> >
> > >.  Individual faux pearls look fine at a 3-foot
> > > distance, as do rhinestones.
> >
> > Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they
don't...
> >
> > > On not enough linen/ too much velvet...  Materials on my current
> > gown are not
> > > authentic...
> >
> > You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
> > reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
> > noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything
actually
> > worn in the 16th century.
> >
> > best wishes
> > Stevie
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Thread-Topic: New topic: Polish costuming
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 14:44:18 -0700
Status: RO

In addition to the 14th century Italian stuff that I've been researching, I've also been looking into sources for clothes during the same period in Poland.  

I've seen the Krystyna Turska book about court clothing in the Jagellonian period and I was wondering if anyone has stumbled across other good sources.

Regards,

Colleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCAcostuming)
In-Reply-To: <000301c20da2$e128b680$a2437ad5@dan> "from Stevie Gamble at Jun
 6, 2002 10:08:24 pm"
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 14:51:37 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Are you on some kind of crusade here?  It seems the only likely
objective you have is to alienate fellow costumers.  

Can we please drop this thread and perhaps accept that
different people have different goals in costuming, and find
different things to be fun -- some of us enjoy insulting others, even.


"Best Wishes"
.heather.


> >And what I think is an attempt on your part to sound objective about
> > this is coming across to some of us as criticism and a bit
> holier-than-thou.
> 
> I see you are back to the unspecified we again; I do hope that you
> don't turn out to be the Queen incognito.
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of
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From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 00:02:02 +0200
Status: RO

 
>> And what I think is an attempt on your part to sound objective about
>> this is coming across to some of us as criticism and a bit
> holier-than-thou.
> 
> I see you are back to the unspecified we again; I do hope that you
> don't turn out to be the Queen incognito.
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie

And if I were?...

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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:06:04 +1200
Status: RO

Ok, You can be allergic to *anything*. I studied Immunology at Uni (first
year it was offered to those of us persuing a BSc, and it matters not how
natural or neutral or synthetic something is.

There are even people allergic to themselves! Or water or.... seriously it
has nothing to do with it being natural or not.

It is an immune reaction and they are unpredictable. Look at me. My body
creates antibodies to my own tissue. And you can't get more natural than
your own tissues;)


On to fake pearls:

If you look at the sheer number of enormous pearls in portraiture (and this
includes later on in 17thC art of *non* aristocracy) there must have been a
large number of fakes. The number of naturally occuring pearls of that size,
let alone regularity (some artistic licence taken into account also) would
never natch up to what is seen.

I have a book on pearls and it does go into the techniques of how they were
faked in 16thC. And in the Visual History of Accesories there is a necklace
of yet another sort of "fakery".  It uses the inner whorls of nautilis
shells.

And you can't tell me people did not try to pull the wool in period;)

I would suggest trying to find the better fakes though. I doubt the moulded
on the string variety were available;)

Then again one of the methods did involve wax filled glass bubbles... lined
with a mixture of fish scales.....

And there is a recipe for rose petal beads for rosaries....

And then there is "paste" for fake jewels.....


michaela


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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 15:24:10 -0700
Status: RO



>I can't explain why some people may be allergic to some that few others
>are, but it does happen... and yes I can sit in poison ivy without any
>ill effect
>
>Alex

In high school I dated a guy for about two weeks until I realized that my 
face broke out everytime we kissed.  We stayed good friends, but the whole 
romantic concept was out!! ;}

My daughter has been trying to get poison oak because her best friend did 
and can't seem to break out at all.  I guess some skins get all the luck.

Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi


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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 00:43:21 +0200
Status: RO

Hi,

These are the fisth pictures of my 16th century wedding!

http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/Weddingclothing


Greetings,
        Deredere

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (and allergies)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 18:42:07 -0400
Status: RO



I found I'm allergic to tea tree oil--the stuff makes me break out in a
rash. I also can't wear "hypoallergenic" Almay cosmetics, Mary kay
cosmetics, or those "hypoallergenic" earrings. Like you, it has to be gold
or silver. And since really good jewelry can get expensive, I let the holes
in my ears close up. (yes, it does happen.) But now, after several years of
only being able to wear clip-ons--which are hard to find, not very secure,
and if they are secure they HURT!--I'm seriously considering getting them
re-pierced. But still only one hole  per ear. just in case...

Dianne
> Have you heard of anyone being allergic to aloe vera?  My daughter is,
> she breaks out in hives if she uses it on her sunburns, and at times
> when her system is sensitive, using a soap or shampoo with it in it
> she'll also break out.
>
> You know that hypoallergenic steel that they use for earrings that no
> one is suppose to be allergic to?  I am, if it's not sterling silver or
> at least 14 carat gold plating, I can't wear those earring for more than
> 4 hours at a time.
>
> I can't explain why some people may be allergic to some that few others
> are, but it does happen... and yes I can sit in poison ivy without any
> ill effect
>
> Alex
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1666 Stuf coat??
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 18:51:12 -0400
Status: RO

Thanks for the ideas, everyone. I must say that my first 
thought was, like Leif's meant to be a "buff" coat, but once 
I looked at the handwriting, I'm pretty sure that's not a 
'b' starting the word. Then I thought that maybe it was some 
sort of heavy, "stuffed" coat, maybe with feathers or 
something. I hadn't heard that "stuf" was often a word 
simply meaning "fabric". That could be what it is.
	does it look like the word in question really is "stuf"?

Leif Drews wrote:
> Sorry of the doubble posting. I forgot to mention that it also could be a
> "stuffed" coat meaning it is lined with some interlinning of a kind, perhaps
> wool.

>Could this be a buff coat? A buff coat is a leather jacket. Sometimes it
>has sleaves, and mostly it is without sleaves, like a waistcoat.

>Bjarne


	-Judy Mitchell
http://www.oldwaylane.net/BenjaminWilson1666.html

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCAcostuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 17:47:21 -0500
Status: RO


On Tue, 7 May 2002 10:06:04 +1200 "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
writes:
> 
> There are even people allergic to themselves! Or water or.... 
> seriously it has nothing to do with it being natural or not.

I'm aware that there are many natural substances that cause allergic
reactions. If you got the natural issue from my post, what I actually was
that linen was 'neutral', as in pH neutral neither acidic nor basic,
either of which could cause an irritation of the epidermis. Any number of
'natural' things are really, really bad for you! ;-)

> It is an immune reaction and they are unpredictable. Look at me. My 
> body creates antibodies to my own tissue. And you can't get more
natural 
> than your own tissues;)

This is true. I'm also aware of the variety of immunological responses
that the human body can have in uncommon circumstances. However what I am
wondering about is: what is it about linen that causes an allergic
reaction.  I've been doing historical costuming for almost 25 years and
I've never before heard of this allergy and since it could impact my
costuming, I'd like to know what's causing it.....and I like a good
mystery! So any ideas as to what part of linen could be causing the
problem?

Karen

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Finally the firsth wedding pictures!!!
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 19:31:28 -0400
Status: RO

Oh! How beautiful! You all look wonderful, and very happy! (as you
should!)
Congratulations!!  

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Deredere & Owen Iskander
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 5:43 PM
To: H-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Finally the firsth wedding pictures!!!

Hi,

These are the fisth pictures of my 16th century wedding!

http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/Weddingclothing


Greetings,
        Deredere




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:37:05 +0200
Status: RO

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
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HI Henk
>> =20
>> I had the pleasure of meeting a group of Dutch SCAdians in Eindhoven on =
april
>> 21st of this year and I was pleasantly surprised, as I told Gerard. It l=
ooked
>> a lot better than I have ever seen before.
It=B9s like what happened to Kayta. She didn=B9t go for a really long time and
then found that things had developed. People trying to =8Cget it right=B9
attract and teach others who also want to =8Cget it right=B9.
>>=20
>> I would love to see more and look forward to the pictures you mentioned.
I just got access to a bunch but they are too big so I need to do some
serious formatting so normal people with normal modems won=B9t get irritated
>> =20
>>> >I would violently protest this statement. I have been in the SCA for a=
 bit
>>> over three years now and aside from a very few American Military member=
s who
>>> just was to drink and have fun, everybody I know (including myself) has=
 been
>>> trying to be authentic as possible given the individual level of knowle=
dge,
>>> ability and resources. It IS creative anachronism in that yes we are
>>> focusing on bygone times and most definitely creative especially when y=
ou
>>> are trying to recreate something that hasn=B9t existed for hundreds of ye=
ars
>>> using methods long forgotten and buried, with materials no one makes an=
ymore
>>> unless you do it yourself.
>> =20
>>             You may protest, but I was reacting to a bunch of photos on =
a
>> website, and remembered a similar set of a 12th night series of last yea=
r.
>> And I wrote down what I saw....
Well, there you go. If you understand the background of the SCA =AD you will
basically not see much =8Cauthentic=B9 looking except for maybe cut at a Twelft=
h
Night or Feast of Fools event. Traditionally this is where you are supposed
to go crazy and like make armor out of CDs (anyone know Tassilo? From last
year=B9s Feast of Fools?) or an Elizabethan outfit out of neon pink and green
lycra or something. And I don=B9t think any one has ever claimed those
costumes were in the least authentic. They are just plain fun.

Also I have found pictures online do little justice to the actual work done=
.
You really have to be there to see how good some things are.
=20
>>  This is just why the SCA will always balance between fantasy/Hollywood =
and
>> historical reality.
Is there another group on this scale which not only works at trying getting
the garb and food right but also tries to incorporate the same type of
social structures from whatever period the Middle Ages?
>>=20
>>  If everybody in the SCA has to be nobility and has to dress according t=
o
>> their status in medieval/renaissance times, you'll get shortcuts, cheap
>> imitations and costume jewelry. The real stuff is just too expensive to
>> imitate. If the SCA would loose that concept and go 'common', clothing w=
ould
>> become a lot cheaper to make.
Not every one wants to be nobility =AD last weekend most were not. Polderslot
is definitely not a shire full of noble-wannabes. Common is =8Ceasy=B9. I have
=8Ccommon=B9 garb but right now I prefer the challenge of the richer looking
things. And besides so many people outside the SCA forget =AD we do this for
fun! So let=B9s just leave the SCA alone! and stick to talking about our
costumes.
>>=20
>>> >I think it is just plain silly to win a crown and title in a tournamen=
t
>>> with rattan sticks.
So what? =AD no one is forcing you to do it. BTW have you ever even tried it?
I hear it=B9s quite therapeutic without having to actually draw blood ;) And =
I
find it quite impressive to watch.
>> =20
>>> >Go get some sleep.
>>             I did, Am I making sense now?
:)))

Cass :)
>> =20


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<FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">HI Henk<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"> <BR>
I had the pleasure of meeting a group of Dutch SCAdians in Eindhoven on apr=
il 21st of this year and I was pleasantly surprised, as I told Gerard. It lo=
oked a lot better than I have ever seen before. <BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">It&#8217;s like what =
happened to Kayta. She didn&#8217;t go for a really long time and then found=
 that things had developed. People trying to &#8216;get it right&#8217; attr=
act and teach others who also want to &#8216;get it right&#8217;.<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"><BR>
I would love to see more and look forward to the pictures you mentioned.<BR=
>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">I just got access to =
a bunch but they are too big so I need to do some serious formatting so norm=
al people with normal modems won&#8217;t get irritated &nbsp;<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"> <BR>
&gt;I would violently protest this statement. I have been in the SCA for a =
bit over three years now and aside from a very few American Military members=
 who just was to drink and have fun, everybody I know (including myself) has=
 been trying to be authentic <I>as possible</I> given the individual level o=
f knowledge, ability and resources. It IS creative anachronism in that yes w=
e are focusing on bygone times and most <I>definitely</I> creative especiall=
y when you are trying to recreate something that hasn&#8217;t existed for hu=
ndreds of years using methods long forgotten and buried, with materials no o=
ne makes anymore unless you do it yourself.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</F=
ONT><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">You may protest, but I was reacting to a bunch of pho=
tos on a website, and remembered a similar set of a 12th night series of las=
t year. And I wrote down what I saw....<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Well, there you go. If =
you understand the background of the SCA &#8211; you will <I>basically not <=
/I>see much &#8216;authentic&#8217; looking except for maybe cut at a Twelft=
h Night or Feast of Fools event. Traditionally this is where you are suppose=
d to go crazy and like make armor out of CDs (anyone know Tassilo? From last=
 year&#8217;s Feast of Fools?) or an Elizabethan outfit out of neon pink and=
 green lycra or something. And I don&#8217;t think any one has ever claimed =
those costumes were in the least authentic. They are just plain fun.<BR>
<BR>
Also I have found pictures online do little justice to the actual work done=
. You really have to be there to see how good some things are.<BR>
</FONT><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"> <BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"> This is just why the SCA=
 will always balance between fantasy/Hollywood and historical reality.<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Is there another group =
on this scale which not only works at trying getting the garb and food right=
 but also tries to incorporate the same type of social structures from whate=
ver period the Middle Ages?<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"><BR>
&nbsp;If everybody in the SCA has to be nobility and has to dress according=
 to their status in medieval/renaissance times, you'll get shortcuts, cheap =
imitations and costume jewelry. The real stuff is just too expensive to imit=
ate. If the SCA would loose that concept and go 'common', clothing would bec=
ome a lot cheaper to make.<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Not every one wants to =
be nobility &#8211; last weekend most were not. Polderslot is definitely not=
 a shire full of noble-wannabes. Common is &#8216;easy&#8217;. I have &#8216=
;common&#8217; garb but right now I prefer the challenge of the richer looki=
ng things. And besides so many people outside the SCA forget &#8211; we do t=
his for fun! So let&#8217;s just leave the SCA alone! and stick to talking a=
bout our costumes.<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"><BR>
&gt;I think it is just plain silly to win a crown and title in a tournament=
 with rattan sticks.<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">So what? &#8211; no o=
ne is forcing you to do it. BTW have you ever even tried it? I hear it&#8217=
;s quite therapeutic without having to actually draw blood ;) And I find it =
quite impressive to watch.<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"> <BR>
</FONT><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">&gt;Go get some sleep.<BR>
</FONT><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I did, Am I making sense now?<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">:)))<BR>
<BR>
Cass :)<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"> <BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
</BODY>
</HTML>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA 
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 19:41:30 -0400
Status: RO

Sorry, 90% of the population of the world wouldn't recognize a
real pearl if they found it in an oyster, let alone sewn onto
somebodies garb. There are sne fairly good faux pearls, made in
the same manner that they were being made in the Elizabethan era
[which IS 16th century. And in the 16th century they both used
fake glass and dissolved nacre pearls as well as those little
river pearls on clothing.]

Me? I buy up the decent river pearls when my favorite jewelry
pusher has sales. At one time I had a quart of river pearls that
cost all of $180, something like 300 16 inch strands or about
5000 pearls. If you are willing to look for bargains, it is
amazing what you can find ;-) It kept me in pearls for opus
anglorum for about 4 years and a lot of garments and goodies [ if
anybody saw my champion ld Ian McLaughlan from 97-99, that blue
velvet and pearl sword scabbard was my work. Took a very nice
prize in an A&S competiton along with matching belt pouch, and
favor.]


margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> > On plastic pearls...  Here, I am less authentic.  I see no reason
> not to use
> > faux pearls, especially given the large quantities of pearl seen in
> > Elizabethan portraiture.  If I was forced to use only real pearls
> and gems on
> > my creations, my budget would afford me a very plain gown indeed!
> 
> 
> But then, by definition, you are not attempting to reproduce a 16th
> century costume.
> 
> >.  Individual faux pearls look fine at a 3-foot
> > distance, as do rhinestones.
> 
> Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they don't...
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Subject: [h-cost] Finally the first wedding pictures!!!
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:16:20 EDT
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 > Hi,
> 
> These are the first pictures of my 16th century wedding!
> 
> http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/Weddingclothing
> 
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 

Best wishes to the lovely bride and lucky groom.  Who are those adorable 
children?

Katrin

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2> <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hi,<BR>
<BR>
These are the first pictures of my 16th century wedding!<BR>
<BR>
http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/Weddingclothing<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Greetings,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Best wishes to the lovely bride and lucky groom.&nbsp; Who are those adorable children?<BR>
<BR>
Katrin</FONT></HTML>

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:39:48 -0700
Status: RO


>On plastic pearls...

I am under the impression Elizabeth I used fake pearls in some capacity, 
probably sewn onto dresses.  Given they weren't plastic, but they weren't 
'real' either.  I would never use the pre-strung pearls, because they look 
too cheap and plasticy.  I would string separate pearls and use that.

>On glasses...  I buy disposable contacts just for SCA events,

My eyes are so bad not even the best state-of-the-art contacts will keep me 
out of glasses.  In addition to the extreme nearsightedness, I am 
astigmatic.  Nobody makes trifocals for the astigmatic, which is what I 
would need today.

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:46:23 -0700
Status: RO


>You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
>reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
>noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything actually
>worn in the 16th century.

No resemblance at all?  Not to anything?  Isn't that a little extreme?


Kayta
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 17:02:13 -0700
Status: RO


>> >Gosh - I'll just have to show you my next SCA outfit and see what you 
>> think.
>>
>>I probably met the wrong people all the time ;-)

It all depends on where you were.  I was in an SCA backwater, and was one 
of the first costume historians that group had.

>>I'll have to show you a picture of my first SCA outfit as well, for
>>comparison.  You'll hate it - I do.  It's pretty awful, but still it was
>>more authentic than most of what SCA folks were wearing where I was in 1971.
>>
>>I would love to see it.

When I get it scanned I certainly will.

>>Then again you should see the way I dressed in 1991 as a 14th c herald! 
 >>From 10 m it looked allright, but it was all cotton, had plastic buttons 
>>and my pouch was a greek souvenir. And it was a lot, a great lot more 
>>authentic than all teh stuff I saw the Drachenwald/Polderslot crowd wear 
>>(did they have buttons in the 14th c, one of them asked me!).

Isn't experience wonderful?  I didn't sew very well then, as compared to 
now.  The inside is as awful as the outside was.

>>Or I can show you
>>my last Ren. Fair outfit.  Shall I send it directly to you, as an
>>attachment?

>>Please do both as attachments!!! I would like that. I'll see if I can 
>>find my above mentioned outfit in a picture somewhere en post is too.

Ren outfit will be sent as attachment to your address.

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 17:09:36 -0700
Status: RO


>> >For me, 'hairy sightwise' would be all the time.  I've been in bifocals
>>since I was 10, and am literally blind without my glasses.  One time I
>>tried walking without the glasses, at the old Black Point Ren. Fair
>>site.  I stepped on a rock I didn't see and fell down in the dirt
>>street.  I skinned one knee and both hands, sprained my ankle, and ripped
>>my costume.  I couldn't see well enough to mend the costume without the
>>glasses.  What did blind people do in your historical period?
>>
>>Move very carefully if they did not know the terrain. Or they asked 
>>somebody to lead them somewhere.

No fun.  But then, it was probably no fun then either.

>> >Check with the Rev. War suppliers.  Somebody makes these frames.  I've 
>> seen
>>them in a catalog somewhere.
>>
>>Rev War specs are different from medieval-ren glasses.

I was thinking Jas. Townsend, as someone else posted and I couldn't think 
of the name at the time.  I know Rev. War specs from these (they sell both 
kinds), and I agree about not the same.

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: name change (was Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses
 (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 17:17:28 -0700
Status: RO


>>I don't see why you cannot change your 'play' name after 10 years, it's 
>>not so's you have to go to the government to do that? Change should 
>>always be possible. My 14th c patronym was 'Cornelissone' untio I found 
>>out that Cornelis only came in use in the 15th c in my province, so I 
>>changed it to 'Costijnssoen'. No problem.

I was in a bar once, talking to the new owners.  I asked them why they 
didn't change the silly name the bar had when they bought it.  They said if 
they changed the name, the cab drivers would never find it.

I have changed the last part of my SCA name several times, as circumstances 
and research changed.  I know how long I have known some of my friends by 
which name they remember.  But the 'Käthe' part has stayed the same, and 
has found it's way into my legal name these days, as 'Kayta'.  (In fact, 
almost nobody calls me 'Carolyn' anymore, but my mother and my childhood 
friends.)

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (and allergies)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 18:03:30 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


A word on allergies:  it is possible for the immune system to react
to _any_ protein.  Including ones you wouldn't think possible (rice is
the food allergy that most people claim "can't" happen).  Simply because
spomething is "natural" is no guarantee that _someone_ won't eventually
have a reaction to it.  Otherwise, things like pollen allergies wouldn't
exist, my friends (and how I wish that were true).

It is true that one can have a reaction to the pesticides used in 
cultivating cotton and linen.  If you think that regular linen is 
expensive, then wait til you see the prices on organic linen, cotton
and hemp.  At that point, one might _as well_ go ahead and buy silk.
Except that most silks are the wrong weight, and it's entirely possible
for someone to be allergic to _that_ as well.  Wools almost always still
have a trace of lanolin in them, unless it's been thoroughly boiled or
felted.  There are _plenty_ of people out there with lanolin allergies.
I have found wools I can wear...but I abused the hell out of the fabric
before it became wearable.  The only other exception was the 100% wool
gabardine that I made my marching band jacket out of.  And that's lined
in cotton.  That particular wool was in the $20/yd range, which puts it
way out of my league for making a dress that takes 10-15 yards of fabric.
And again, I prewashed the hell out of it.  A less sturdy weave would've
done bad things under that treatment.

Another question for you out there:  do you sneer at folks who wear 
orthopedic braces the same way you do at ones who wear glasses?  They're
both prosthetics, and for some just as absolutely neccessary.  I always
made sure to cover my leg braces when I did period costumes, but there
was a time that I could _not_ get to events without them.  And playing
the period cripple got old fast, especially since I need to be able to
use my hands to play.  Are we going to start telling the handicapped,
"You can't play unless you can ditch or hide all your adaptive equipment"?

I _can_ go without my glasses.  There are an awful lot of people who can't.
At one time, I could _not_ go without my leg braces and cane.  And there are
some people who will never have the option of going without.  Shall you 
sneer at them as well?

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:53:12 -0700
Status: RO

At 8:43 PM +0200 5/6/02, Henk 't Jong - tScapreel wrote:

>             You may protest, but I was reacting to a bunch of photos 
>on a website, and remembered a similar set of a 12th night series of 
>last year. And I wrote down what I saw....

You also have to keep in mind that this particular set of photographs 
was _not_ selected as "examples of good costuming" or even "examples 
of typical costuming" but rather "people who took advantage of an 
offer of free portrait photography at a particular event".

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 22:10:21 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 5/6/02 3:44:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time, scapreel@tip.nl 
writes:


> There's an easy trick to that: keep your glasses in a purse or bag at your 
> belt and put 'em on when things get hairy sightwise.

Very hard to do when you are being filmed live 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/6/02 3:44:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time, scapreel@tip.nl writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">There's an easy trick to that: keep your glasses in a purse or bag at your belt and put 'em on when things get hairy sightwise.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
Very hard to do when you are being filmed live </FONT></HTML>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:05:42 -0700
Status: RO

Just a comment on a portion of this post since I agree to a large extent.

"3) Names... well, yes... it used to be pretty bad.  But now the SCA Heralds
are a bit
better about avoiding the fantasy type names, and requiring documentation.
The
exception is that if you want to use either your first or last name, and
it's
reasonably close to period, they'll let you (ie. I kept the spelling of
"Elisabeth"
for my SCA name, though I've not been able to find any examples of it
spelled that way
in England in the time period I was looking at)."


The HERALDS are getting better!!!!!????  I beg your pardon!  Who in the
world do you think submits God Buda Odinson (okay, THAT was a heraldic joke
that can be documented), or Fairylee Glamora Gossimer Nightshade!  Not the
Heralds.  It's the populace, and they get pissed as h*ll when someone has
the effrontery to tell them no, or even suggest that they (note THEY!  NOT
THE HERALDS) should do some research on a period name.

For the record, the College of Heralds has required documentation almost
since the beginning.  My name went through during the tenure of Wilhelm von
Schluessel and I had to have three sources showing common usage.

The College of Heralds probably gets more hate mail and contemptuous dislike
than any part of the SCA including the BoD.

Why don't we have all documentable period names?  Because many SCA want what
they want, and no authority figure is going to tell them any different.

On the other hand we don't have to come to our game completely fitted out
with costume and kit before we attend our first event.  Having just returned
from an event in Drachenwald which had a significant number of Germans,
Dutch (Netherlanders?), and Swedes as well as Americans in attendance.  One
of the new German members mentioned he had sought out the SCA because it
gave him an opportunity to grow a persona and make kit over a time period
rather than plunk down the hundreds of Euros and thousands of hours the
European groups required.  It also allowed him to move hundreds of years in
each direction as new things caught his fancy.

Regina Romsey  (the Heralds wouldn't let me be Regina de Romsey since they
thought it allowed me to claim territory :-)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:32:11 -0700
Status: RO


>                   This is just why the SCA will always balance between
>                   fantasy/Hollywood and historical reality. If
>                   everybody in the SCA has to be nobility and has to
>                   dress according to their status in
>                   medieval/renaissance times, you'll get shortcuts,
>                   cheap imitations and costume jewelry. The real stuff
>                   is just too expensive to imitate.


Like they didn't have shortcuts, cheap imitations and costume 
jewelry in the middle ages and renaissance?

One of the things I've learned as I've studied the textile/accessory 
archeology of the middle ages and renaissance is just how much 
they did do with cheap imitations and costume jewelry. Sure, we 
have lovely ruby, emerald, sapphire and diamond gemstones set in 
gold in the museums, but there is even more (even in places such 
as the Inventories of Henry VIII) of things like paste and other forms 
of counterfeit jewels (including using wax as imitation pearls. 
Yuck!) and the use of copper wire and counterfeit "precious metal" 
(such as "brass and copper"). Problem is, most of the books and 
museums don't show these. (Exceptions being museums like 
Museum of London and books like the ones put out by the 
Museum of London.)

At an event like a Twelfth Night Coronation (such as the web site 
we've been discussing), you are going to see the major knock your 
socks off court stuff. That doesn't mean that people aren't going to 
be wearing wool and linen the rest of the time. Most of the people 
in my area (the Pacific Northwest) tend to wear a lot of wool 
(because it's practical in cold, damp weather! Thank God for the 
Pendleton outlet stores and Mill Ends) and, when we can get our 
hands on it, linen (because it works better than cotton when it's hot 
and sticky.) This even extends to our new people.



Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (and allergies)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:38:57 -0700
Status: RO


> Except that most silks are the wrong weight, and it's entirely
> possible for someone to be allergic to _that_ as well.  

The only reason that we don't see more silk allergy is because it is 
actually used uncommonly in modern clothes. It's a *very* 
allergenic fiber!


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA  costuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:16:15 -0700
Status: RO


> I have to say something here about faux stones and pearls.  I use them
> as I need to or desire a certain look. I have learned recently lesser
> nobles in fact did use faux pearls and stones.  I didn't say all the
> time nor can I quote you a source other then my instructor.

The _Inventories of Henry VIII_, and Ronald Lightbown's _Medieval 
European Jewelry_ and the Museum of London series of books 
(such as Dress Accessories) as well as things like Geoff Egan and 
Hazel Forsyth's chapter in _The Age of Transition-The Archeology 
of English Culture 1400-1600 ed David Garinster and Dul Stamper, 
Oxbow monograph 98, 1997. The ed's might not be spelled right as 
the writing is not 100% legible. Thank God the article is a 
photocopy.) discuss the use of counterfeits.

I'm sure that I have other sources too, but these are the ones which 
come to mind off hand.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: [h-cost] hygiene
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:11:53 -0500
Status: RO

>From time to time the top of historic hygiene comes up on this list. 
Here's a piece about a bathroom exhibit along with toilet paper history:

http://abcnews.go.com/sections/us/WolfFiles/wolffiles.html

--Charlene

-- 
You can fool too many people too much of the time.  -- James Thurber
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From: "David Angel Aware" <angel_aware@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1666 Stuf coat??
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 07:56:42 +0000
Status: RO

From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>

Thanks for the ideas, everyone. I must say that my first thought was, like 
Leif's meant to be a "buff" coat, but once I looked at the handwriting, I'm 
pretty sure that's not a 'b' starting the word. Then I thought that maybe it 
was some sort of heavy, "stuffed" coat, maybe with feathers or something. I 
hadn't heard that "stuf" was often a word simply meaning "fabric". That 
could be what it is.
	does it look like the word in question really is "stuf"?

Judy,

I sent the link to the inventory to Nicole, you know here? She used to be 
here on the list, she's an expert on anything Baroque and doing a PhD on it 
now. She said that it is 'Stuf', definitely, and that she'll look it up to 
make certain what it means and come back to me. I'll let you know.

David

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From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally the first wedding pictures!!!
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 09:17:12 +0200
Status: RO

They are good friends of us.
They loved their costumes!
I spend 1.5 year to organise the wedding and make my dress and the 
costumes for the children and some other costumes.
And my husband worked for aboud 5 months to embroider his costume and 
the one of the boy.
But It was al worth it. We had so much fun! And all our guests too!!
We were married in a small courthouse in IJsselstein and had our 
reseption in a part of and old cloister.
After the reseption we went to a beautifull amusement park.
If you want to know how beautifull, ask Cassandra.
It has a fairytale park with beautiful nature and Small castels and houses.
You can find the castle of sleepingbeaty where she lays a sleep for 50 
years now ...
We slept in their hotel in the nothernlight room in a bed that looked 
like a troika and a living room that was a small iglo.
And on saturday morning we arrived at  the event peasant beltane where a 
lot of our friends experiansed thei firsth SCA event.
But Now I am going to go tho a shop to get some more pictures of our 
wedding.
Hopefully I will get some better pictures of  our costumes.
My dress is hard to make pictures of, because of the colours and the 
fine details.

Greetings,
        Deredere


DarlaKDavis@aol.com wrote:

>> Hi,
>>
>> These are the first pictures of my 16th century wedding!
>>
>> http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/Weddingclothing
>>
>>
>> Greetings,
>>         Deredere
>
>
>
> Best wishes to the lovely bride and lucky groom.  Who are those 
> adorable children?
>
> Katrin



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Subject: [h-cost] Hawaiian textiles museums
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:33:53 -0500
Status: RO

My husband and I are going to Hawaii this month (Oahu & Maui).  I've
flipped through the guide book and haven't found any mention of museums
on either island that have textile exhibits.  I'd be especially
interested in Hawaiian quilting.  Anyone have any pointers?

Thanks,
--Charlene

-- 
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 22:41:53 -0700
Status: RO

I think if I had to lay this trim dopwn by hand, it would be puffier than if
I did it with a machine.  If I did it on airy China silk, it would be even
puffier.  However, there may be two layers here: one to anchor and one to
puff.

This is all highly conjectural on my part.

Also, I've always assumed this was direct embroidery, but it could be
passmentarie, I guess. I can't tell just from the way my monitor shows me
this close-up, though.


MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Azelana@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 9:34 AM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
>
>
> How is the fabric manipulation on this partlet done, do you
> think?  It looks
> a little puffy for just intersecting pintuks...  Any ideas?
>
> http://www.marquise.de/images/1500/1570_3d.jpg
>
> Incidentally, does the neckline look to you all more like woven trim
> embellished with buttons of pearl and gems, or a hard
> goldwork/bilament/"jewelled square"?  I do note her necklace
> matches the gown
> neckline, which I suppose could support the bilament concept.
> I'm happy the
> gown has straps though, seeing as how I decided to do it on mine.
>
> --Gillian
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 23:00:16 -0700
Status: RO

This isn't nearly as bad as Yahoo's please-spam-me page, but worth looking
at.  Thanks for the heads-up, Fran.

MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 11:02 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] OT--Amazon is about to spam you
>
>
> Remember how YahooGroups recently reset all members' email preferences
> to say, "Please, send me lots of spam?"  Amazon.com just did it too.
> To reset your preferences again:
>
> Go to Amazon and click on "Your Account" at the top of the page.
>
> Under "Personal Information" click "Update your communication
> preferences."
>
> After logging in, uncheck all the boxes in the first section. Note
> that at the bottom you can ask to receive only essential communication
> about orders and bids.
>
> Fran Grimble
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
>
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:03:22 -0700
Status: RO


Of glasses: I think Henk was trying subtly to suggest that, for the sake of
the photograph, one might take them off and hand them to a friend.  Nothing
to do with trying to get around without them.

Spectacles (with Side pieces) on are period for Elizabethans (those who can
afford the,which would be anyone who can afford velvet) and probably 100
years earlier.

No one ever said you must only use real gems.  All my pearls are faux, but
they are glass, not plastic. (And I never wear ropes and ropes of them,or
every thing I own all at once, as some people seem to)  All my jewels are
glass, in fact. What a difference.

<waving after a hiatus> Hi gang! D'ya miss me?


MaggiRos
The Elizabethan World is at http://ren.dm.net

> On glasses...  I buy disposable contacts just for SCA events, but
> there have
> been times I was unable to wear them cuz my eyes were irritated.
> I do take
> the glasses off for pics, though.    The "keep 'em in a purse" thought is
> great for people who only need glasses to read, but I'm legally
> blind without
> mine.  "When things get hairy"?  That's any time I'm walking
> around without
> my glasses!  Many glasses-wearers can wear contacts for short
> periods, and
> disposables only worn for events will last you a while.  Totally
> worth the
> cash [even if you can't read with them due to astygmatism].

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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:38:22 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. I think I can speak from both sides of the fence, as a
reenactor for only slightly more years(26) than in the SCA(21). I
appreciate and understand Henk's past frustration with a group with no
official standards. I am pleased, however, that many folks have
voluntarily decided to lift the bar up a few notches. I tend to think
nowadays that the SCA is such a big organization that it would be
impossible to set standards (and not lose more that half of the
membership which, as any member of the Board of Directors would tell
you, would be disastrous to the group). The fact that many folks set the
example by leading from the front is admirable. I seriously believe that
Henk's comments were not directed to anyone on this list, the great many
of which are good scholars. Costuming has always been a big bugaboo with
the SCA, as well as with many groups, as clothing is one of the biggest
clues as to what the public views us as doing. It is difficult to take
an organization seriously, especially one that receives not-for-profit
status from it's government, that has no requirement to show the public
a more professional face, yet there are those who do this task
admirably. It is a shame that these individuals have to shoulder the
burden for all, yet, there it is. I remember back to 1976, and how
poorly my clothing for American RevWar was researched, compared to what
I see now. I wonder how much the interest in the period spawned the
research that is out there now? I doubt that anyone would have much
cared if not for a few dedicated individuals who wanted to search out
the details. If those dedicated people decide to split off from the main
group and do more intensive research, I applaud their efforts. If some
decide to remain and try to improve the old group from within, I say the
same. Either way, you aren't going to change some people. It's a shame
about some folks, but just as reenactment groups haven't supplanted the
SCA, and the SCA hasn't supplanted RenFaires, and RenFaires haven't
supplanted either the badly costumed highschool Shakespeare play (or for
that matter, the badly costumed Hollywood film). We just try and do what
we can, in the best way we know how. We try and lead from the front and
by example... Cheers, Mike T.



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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:03:22 -0700
Status: RO


Of glasses: I think Henk was trying subtly to suggest that, for the sake of
the photograph, one might take them off and hand them to a friend.  Nothing
to do with trying to get around without them.

Spectacles (with Side pieces) on are period for Elizabethans (those who can
afford the,which would be anyone who can afford velvet) and probably 100
years earlier.

No one ever said you must only use real gems.  All my pearls are faux, but
they are glass, not plastic. (And I never wear ropes and ropes of them,or
every thing I own all at once, as some people seem to)  All my jewels are
glass, in fact. What a difference.

<waving after a hiatus> Hi gang! D'ya miss me?


MaggiRos
The Elizabethan World is at http://ren.dm.net

> On glasses...  I buy disposable contacts just for SCA events, but
> there have
> been times I was unable to wear them cuz my eyes were irritated.
> I do take
> the glasses off for pics, though.    The "keep 'em in a purse" thought is
> great for people who only need glasses to read, but I'm legally
> blind without
> mine.  "When things get hairy"?  That's any time I'm walking
> around without
> my glasses!  Many glasses-wearers can wear contacts for short
> periods, and
> disposables only worn for events will last you a while.  Totally
> worth the
> cash [even if you can't read with them due to astygmatism].

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Washing wool in front-loading washers
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:51:57 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. I can't help but comment. I was in the store the other day, and a saleswomen
was trying to sell this young couple on a front loader. She started by telling
them "you know that problem where a sweater gets thicker and shorter, well, this
won't happen with one of these". I interrupted her and mentioned fulling, and how
the process of agitation, heat and soap are used to thicken wool, and asked her
what the difference in agitation was that allowed the more expensive washer to
avoid this. She told me that the difference was that the clothes are turned over
and over rather than pulled down by the screw action of the old style machine. I
said nothing, but thanked her, and left her to her sale. I can't see how a
horizontal rotary action is in any way dissimilar to a vertical one in any
fundamental way. The film of women fulling wool in the Orkneys that I have seen
shows them agitating the wool vertically in the same way that a front loader
would, only without the pushing action. Perhaps this is the secret?  Mike T.



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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:01:11 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. In my research, as a person who has sight problems, I can tell you that the person you spoke to
was probably biased. At least within the period covered by the SCA, glasses were only there to
magnify, not correct vision. You can certainly have a pair of glasses made to your prescription, and
have them fitted with a proper frame. They will not be proper for the period in that they are a
modern prescription, and your optometrist will not be happy with the fit, as the lens does not center
correctly when worn in the period manner, but you would certainly be one step closer to "doing it
right". If you are a member of a reenactment group, you might want to check with your group's
standards. I am sad to say that vision problems and their correction is a problem in many periods of
historical reenactment. I can't tell you how many times I see an 18th or 19th Cent. reenactment (ACW
and RevWar) where the majority of the participants are wearing period styled frames, yet the mass of
the participants together presents a truly myopic view (pun intended) of the period, making the
public think that true vision correction was available far earlier than we know it to be (watch the
film "Gettysburg", for example, and I say this in all due courtesy to a number of my friends, who
were extras in that film, the majority of whom wear glasses). I am fortunate that, even though my
problem is severe, as those who know me will attest, I still manage to persevere with contacts for
the first person accurate stuff. I know not everyone can or will try them. In addition, I can say
that my scholarly credentials include years of research into medicine and surgery of the Medieval and
Renaissance periods (amateur, of course, although, I suppose if you are paid for it, you become
sort-of professional), and that I haven't yet come across anything that would lead me to believe any
other conclusion other than the one that I have voiced, but if there is any evidence out there for
vision correction other than what I have mentioned, I am quite interested in it. Thanks, Mike T.



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: linen and wool
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 23:52:15 -0400
Status: RO

Allergy-wise... since someone asked today about these two...

Linen I have no problem with... as long as it's pretty good and been washed *lots* to take out the
roughness.  Even one of my overskirts that is linen is nice and soft, but I'd still have problems if
it rubbed against my skin a lot.... Linen just happens to seem to have either more, sharper, or
stiffer bits of fiber sticking out... even the better stuff.   I have no allergy to it, love to work
with it... but I have "dermititis problems" that among other things mean that I have fewer layers of
skin than most and that it has a bad tendency to decide to rub off (ie. become raw) at times more
easily than others.

I'm going to keep using it... and I'm trying it for my next Tudor chemise... but no guarantees I can
actually wear it even after spending the money and time on it.


Wool on the other hand is a *real* problem for me.  Yes, I'm allergic to lanolin (actually, it may be
just a heightened sensitivity... the way that lanolin "smooths" your rough skin is by helping to take
layers off... see the "fewer layers, sensitive skin comment above")

I'm *also* allergic to wool.  The telling factor is that my mom had a sweater that was only 15-25%
wool (I don't remember the number, but it was very low).  She'd had it since High School, and her
family did not run to dry cleaning.  That sweater had been washed by hand for *years*... and it was
washed twice (all the *old* handmedowns were washed twice for me and my allergies) in detergent that
was known to be ok for me.  I wore it *over* a cotton turtleneck shirt... so no part of that sweater
touched my skin.  I had to take it off because my eyes were becoming irritated, and I really wanted
to scratch my face off after about an hour of wearing it.

Oh yeah... none of us had looked at the contents label until I got home that afternoon... it was just
a fluffy *soft* sweater up until that reading.

Thankfully, wool is the only fiber that we've found (so far, knock on wood) that I have this problem
with...



-Elisabeth

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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:35:05 -0400
Status: RO

You know... it is, in fact, possible to be allergic to wool. I am. The 
following comments are not blanket statements covering everyone, just my 
own experience.

I can tell if a fabric is wool, even if other people are unsure, or even 
if they think it is something else, by touching it to my face. It 
prickles. Doesn't itch, really, but prickles. Other parts of my body, I 
get the same reaction, but it takes a little longer. Took nearly 5 
minutes to realize my arm was touching a sheepskin on a friend's sofa. 
It began to hurt, though just a little.  (I was lying down with a 
headache, and not paying attention to my surroundings.) If the edge of a 
garment touches my skin, I develop a rash. That itches... for the rest 
of the day.

No, this is not the processing. I knew a woman who raised her own sheep, 
spun and wove the fabric herself. It prickled. I'm learning to spin, and 
a fleece followed me home, so I am spinning wool... it doesn't bother my 
hands, at least, not the length of time I'm handling it, (I don't spin 
long, partly because I am still learning, partly because I'm being 
careful about a wrist injury) but I can't loop the roving around my 
wrist, as I have seen some people do. And I scoured this myself! And it 
is nice and soft and fluffy.

My experience, back when I had to wear suits, was that I could wear a 
wool blend over a slip. Couldn't wear pants at all, even lined ones - 
too close to the skin. Especially if I am warm, I can itch right through 
a lining. I've avoided wearing it at all, except for winter coats, for 
years.   I'm just starting to make historic costume for my own wear, and 
I plan to try a good soft wool over a heavy substantial linen. Not a 
lightweight one, I'm afraid that might not be enough. It may take a 
while to work up the nerve... Right now, I'm sticking to linen.

You know - an allergy is, by definition, an abnormal reaction to a 
substance. Someone can be allergic to anything. A cucumber nearly killed 
my mother. None of this means there is anything wrong with the wool (or 
the cucumber). It's just that I can't use it!  I find I have this 
discussion someplace once or twice a year, because many people don't 
know about it, and some don't believe it. I agree that it is not common, 
here or in Europe, but it is real.

Thank you!

Anne
Getting off the wool soapbox, and really wishing she could wear the 
lovely stuff


Melanie Wilson wrote:

>Hi Henk
>
>>Why is taht so in the USA? I have not heard of it overhere, Do they do
>>
>something with wool over there? Besides, wool is the outer layer, linen goes
>against the skin. Nobody is allergic to linen, are they?
>
>Possibily the finishing in the US. It was very different both dye wise &
>finish wise when I was working there 10 odd years ago.
>
>Alex, my son, if hyper sensative to powders & finishes (among other things)
>It isn't a true allergy to wool, but manifests itself as such. So I am
>careful about what wools I clothe him in. I suspect it is a combination of
>such factors & a lack of use to natural fibres in many cases.
>
>Mel
>
>


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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:16:15 -0700
Status: RO


>   > On not enough linen/ too much velvet...  Materials on my current
>   gown are not authentic.  Why?  1) Both wool and linen give me a
>   rash.  Plenty of people have these allergies. 
> 
>   Why is taht so in the USA? I have not heard of it overhere, Do they
>   do something with wool over there? Besides, wool is the outer layer,
>   linen goes against the skin. Nobody is allergic to linen, are they?

You can be allergic to linen, although it's fairly uncommon (since 
proteinacious fibres such as wool and silk are far more allergenic). 
Most likely, it is an allergy to the dye or something else in the 
processing. In the US, it's also *very* common to fumigate the 
fabric storage buildings with formaldehyde. This will bind with the 
fibres in the fabric and are a form of potent allergen. (It's why *I* 
don't wear polyester. Formaldehyde-polyester makes me break out 
something fierce.) A formaldehyde attaching to a carbohydrate (of 
which bast fibres such as linen are non-digestible forms) are also 
fairly potent (but again, not nearly as bad as formaldehyde protein).

>   I wasn't commenting on wearing glasses ALLl the time if you need
>   them. Just take them off when your picture is taken or when you give
>   a press conference (and don't have to read something from a paper).
>   I other words: when you want to look like a historic person for the
>   outsiders take them off, when you're amongst yourselves, sure, leave
>   them on. There's more to playing a historic character than putting
>   on a 'costume'...

It is considered a rudeness in the SCA not to turn a blind eye to 
things needed by the handicapped, and that includes glasses (as 
well as things like braces.) I used to have a pair of period glasses, 
but unfortunately I've become so nearsighted and astigmatic that I 
can only afford one pair at a time. I have problems just walking 
around wearing the old ones and I can tell I'm going to need a new 
regular pair soon. (If I have a second pair, it's to replace my poor 
sunglasses.) I can't wear contacts at all (because of allergies as 
well as the astigmatism).


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:16:53 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. Just a note, my wife carries the same glasses in her shop as the Townshend ones (we got them from
them a while back) I also provide a set of magnifying lenses and a copy of the Trig Lane archaeology
report with them for a little more... not trying to do business, just providing info. The frames are
a composite plastic, made to look like horn (although the Trig Lane set was bone), and they come from
Townshend with plastic lenses in them. Henk, I am interested in anything on glasses, especially the
conjecture that myopic vision corrrection was being done in the 16th Cent.. Please sent a private
note with any docs you may know of... Thanks, Mike T.
PS As I understand it, wearing of glasses "constantly" came into use as methods for keeping them
steady on the face got better, i.e. when proper fitting earpieces and aligned frames came into use.
Historians place this generally at the end of the 17th-beginning of the 18th Cent., although steady
improvement has been made since in many areas. Even then, constant use was primarily for reading,
book-keeping and specialized use. It is an ongoing historical line, much in the same way that the
Renaissance did not suddenly "occur" one day in the 1450s, different strides occuring at different
periods. MJT



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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 00:37:20 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. I am inclined to agree that the "stuf" in this case is the material of which
it is made. It is probably not a buffcoat, though the value (at over 2 pounds)
seems to exceed that of a coat made of common cloth. I will look further into
Stuart Peachey's research on the subject. Mike T.



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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 22:41:53 -0700
Status: RO

I think if I had to lay this trim dopwn by hand, it would be puffier than if
I did it with a machine.  If I did it on airy China silk, it would be even
puffier.  However, there may be two layers here: one to anchor and one to
puff.

This is all highly conjectural on my part.

Also, I've always assumed this was direct embroidery, but it could be
passmentarie, I guess. I can't tell just from the way my monitor shows me
this close-up, though.


MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Azelana@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 9:34 AM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
>
>
> How is the fabric manipulation on this partlet done, do you
> think?  It looks
> a little puffy for just intersecting pintuks...  Any ideas?
>
> http://www.marquise.de/images/1500/1570_3d.jpg
>
> Incidentally, does the neckline look to you all more like woven trim
> embellished with buttons of pearl and gems, or a hard
> goldwork/bilament/"jewelled square"?  I do note her necklace
> matches the gown
> neckline, which I suppose could support the bilament concept.
> I'm happy the
> gown has straps though, seeing as how I decided to do it on mine.
>
> --Gillian
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:13:10 BST
Status: RO

Maggie Secara <maggiros@adelphia.net> wrote :

> Spectacles (with Side pieces) on are period for Elizabethans (those who can
> afford the,which would be anyone who can afford velvet) and probably 100
> years earlier.

Yippee!
Can you point me at pictures, descriptions, or anything?

(Never mind how I afforded them: I probably robbed someone).




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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:17:59 -0700
Status: RO


> >I think it is just plain silly to win a crown and title in a tournament 
> with rattan sticks.


I can't find the original of this post, but I think this activity is a 
little silly too.  But then, I joined for the costumes, not for who is king 
next time.

Kayta
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:22:03 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Hmm.... I got a message about some 1666 fabric, who was the one who wanted to
know what 'stuf' is?

*looks around and wonders if things have changed during the last year while
being off the list*

:-)

Nicole - getting ready for the 1700 mantua

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen allergies Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCAcostuming)
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 20:33:20 +1200
Status: RO

However what I am
> wondering about is: what is it about linen that causes an allergic
> reaction.  I've been doing historical costuming for almost 25 years and
> I've never before heard of this allergy and since it could impact my
> costuming, I'd like to know what's causing it.....and I like a good
> mystery! So any ideas as to what part of linen could be causing the
> problem?

It doesn't matter that linen is pH neatral, again that has nothing to do
with the process. Acids and basis can irritate the skin sure, but it's not
the whole and wherefore of allergic reactions.

As I said it could be anything... I'm allergic to flax seed oil, and it's a
definate possitic reaction.. I thought I was going to spontaneously combust.
I haven't worn enough linen close to my skin to see if I am that sensitive.
Linen being processed from a type of flax. Usually an allergy will encompass
a whole family of plants, as they usually comtain the same chemical make up
to put it broadly (is I do not have my books to hand;) )

And it probably doesn't matter, as I may be/or have been sensitive any of
the chemical present in that oil, which may be different from anyone else.

Also allergies can appear and disappear as you come more into contact with
an allergen. For me and buck wheat it was a few nights sleeping on a pillow
before I really noticed how oozy and swollen my skin was;)

lol! No I am not allergic to everything under the sun, just those two very
specific things. And I may no longer be, the immune system is a very
tempermental thing. Yet really sturdy too... there are people who do not
produce a seemingly vital part (all I can remember from that lecture is type
III so I'd have to look it up) yet function well.

You can only really deal with an allergy on an individual basis.

michaela


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:36:31 BST
Status: RO

Leigh Tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote :

> Hi. In my research, as a person who has sight problems, I can tell you that the
> person you spoke to
> was probably biased. At least within the period covered by the SCA, glasses were
> only there to
> magnify, not correct vision. 

I had a nasty feeling that was the case. Concave lenses are harder to grind. And you don't wear magnifying lenses while walking around, so no need to have them permanently attached.

> You can certainly have a pair of glasses made to
> your prescription, and
> have them fitted with a proper frame. They will not be proper for the period in
> that they are a
> modern prescription, and your optometrist will not be happy with the fit, as the
> lens does not center
> correctly when worn in the period manner, but you would certainly be one step
> closer to "doing it right". 

That's the aim, really. I doubt if anyone's going to be checking what the curvature of the lenses is like, but I'd prefer to be as inoffensive as possible from longer range. (Falling over people, and failing to recognise them, will cause greater offence than a pair of not-quite-right specs, I think).

> If you are a member of a reenactment group, you might
> want to check with your group's standards. 

Very forgiving. I think I'm the only one to be even considering period specs. Still, what's allowed is decreed by the Monarch: Teddy? What will you allow? If the plastic frames are bright orange...?

Seriously, we don't do public display. If we did, I'd be a lot more worried. This is just another of my general attempts to get my standards a little bit higher.




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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA
 costuming)
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:42:33 -0700
Status: RO


> > Spectacles (with Side pieces) on are period for Elizabethans (those who can
> > afford the,which would be anyone who can afford velvet) and probably 100
> > years earlier.
>
>Yippee!
>Can you point me at pictures, descriptions, or anything?

Davenport's costume book has a portrait, painted in 1575 by 'El Greco', of 
Cardinal Don Fernando Nino de Guevara, and he is wearing glasses with side 
pieces that loop around his ears.  It's on page 464, Ill. #1228.  My 
uneducated guess is that if the Cardinal is sitting for his portrait 
wearing glasses, he wore them more often than just for reading.


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 20:44:18 +1200
Status: RO

Oops, not in this post but in an earlier one I too was confusing myself with
intolerances and allergies;). A lot of people say they have food allergies..
but it's *usually* not an actual immune response, which is the basis of an
allergic reaction. Note the asterisks around usually.. as there are
naturally going to be people who have an immune response... phew.

Just to clarify things;). And I'd rather pull myself up over an error;)

michaela
Anyone want to me to drag out my texts;)? Actually I'm thinking of doing a
little rereading anyway.

> However what I am
> > wondering about is: what is it about linen that causes an allergic
> > reaction.  I've been doing historical costuming for almost 25 years and
> > I've never before heard of this allergy and since it could impact my
> > costuming, I'd like to know what's causing it.....and I like a good
> > mystery! So any ideas as to what part of linen could be causing the
> > problem?
>
> It doesn't matter that linen is pH neatral, again that has nothing to do
> with the process. Acids and basis can irritate the skin sure, but it's not
> the whole and wherefore of allergic reactions.
>
> As I said it could be anything... I'm allergic to flax seed oil, and it's
a
> definate possitic reaction.. I thought I was going to spontaneously
combust.
> I haven't worn enough linen close to my skin to see if I am that
sensitive.
> Linen being processed from a type of flax. Usually an allergy will
encompass
> a whole family of plants, as they usually comtain the same chemical make
up
> to put it broadly (is I do not have my books to hand;) )
>
> And it probably doesn't matter, as I may be/or have been sensitive any of
> the chemical present in that oil, which may be different from anyone else.
>
> Also allergies can appear and disappear as you come more into contact with
> an allergen. For me and buck wheat it was a few nights sleeping on a
pillow
> before I really noticed how oozy and swollen my skin was;)
>
> lol! No I am not allergic to everything under the sun, just those two very
> specific things. And I may no longer be, the immune system is a very
> tempermental thing. Yet really sturdy too... there are people who do not
> produce a seemingly vital part (all I can remember from that lecture is
type
> III so I'd have to look it up) yet function well.
>
> You can only really deal with an allergy on an individual basis.
>
> michaela
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From: Wendi Dunlap-Simpson <litlnemo@slumberland.seattle.wa.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Washing wool in front-loading washers
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 01:57:23 -0700
Status: RO

At 1:51 AM -0400 5/7/02, leigh tartaglio wrote:
>I
>said nothing, but thanked her, and left her to her sale. I can't see how a
>horizontal rotary action is in any way dissimilar to a vertical one in any
>fundamental way. The film of women fulling wool in the Orkneys that 
>I have seen
>shows them agitating the wool vertically in the same way that a front loader
>would, only without the pushing action. Perhaps this is the secret?  Mike T.

Hello,

I have one of the Neptune machines, and when it is in Hand Wash mode, 
it is not rotating the clothing around at all -- just gently rocking 
side to side. It is a much gentler motion than you might be 
picturing. In the other modes it does rotate more. (I suppose it must 
rotate fully when in spin cycle, but I'm not sure -- I haven't stayed 
around to watch whether it spins normally when in Hand Wash.)

In my experience with this machine, I have washed (in Hand Wash mode) 
many items that were labeled "hand wash only" or "dry clean only" and 
haven't ruined anything yet, though your mileage may vary. Even wool 
-- no problem. I did use it to full some wool intentionally, but I 
did not use the Hand Wash setting, and I found that it was difficult 
to get the wool to full! It took several attempts to get it to fuzz 
up -- I'm not sure why.

I did have one knit jersey shirt (not for costuming purposes) that 
pilled on first wash, but I'm pretty sure that it was cheap, horrible 
fabric and not the fault of the machine, since much more delicate 
fabric has been fine. (The fabric in question is very soft and nice 
in a way... but changed color completely when washed and pilled like 
crazy. This is what I get for buying $1/yard fabric at Jo-Ann.)

I would definitely recommend the Neptune machine. It's great, and in 
our city, you get a substantial rebate  ($100 or $150, if I recall 
correctly) from the city for buying one, because they save so much 
water. The machine only uses as much water as a given load needs, so 
you can wash a very small load and not feel guilty about it. :)
-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] more specs
From: Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:09:46 BST
Status: RO

I tried to reply to this, and my mailer crashed :( trying again!

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote :
> Davenport's costume book has a portrait, painted in 1575 by 'El Greco', of 
> Cardinal Don Fernando Nino de Guevara, and he is wearing glasses with side 
> pieces that loop around his ears.  It's on page 464, Ill. #1228.  My 
> uneducated guess is that if the Cardinal is sitting for his portrait 
> wearing glasses, he wore them more often than just for reading.

This looks like an on-line version of the same portrait?

http://www.saskia.com/Query/Selected_Work.asp?WorkID=3442

and yes, those look like fairly modern specs to me!

Comments from experts?



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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] more specs
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 02:21:54 -0700
Status: RO


> > Davenport's costume book has a portrait, painted in 1575 by 'El Greco', of
> > Cardinal Don Fernando Nino de Guevara, and he is wearing glasses with side
> > pieces that loop around his ears.  It's on page 464, Ill. #1228.  My
> > uneducated guess is that if the Cardinal is sitting for his portrait
> > wearing glasses, he wore them more often than just for reading.
>
>This looks like an on-line version of the same portrait?
>
>http://www.saskia.com/Query/Selected_Work.asp?WorkID=3442
>
>and yes, those look like fairly modern specs to me!
>
>Comments from experts?

That's the one.


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 06:04:37 -0400
Status: RO

I actually own a costuming pattern (meant to be RevWar era) from 1976. If
anyone wants to compare the level of costuming between then and now, this
pattern would be a great starting place! Just a shame, though, that we can't
get the major companies to get rid of that damned zipper.

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- . I remember back to 1976, and how
> poorly my clothing for American RevWar was researched, compared to what
> I see now. I wonder how much the interest in the period spawned the
> research that is out there now? I doubt that anyone would have much
> cared if not for a few dedicated individuals who wanted to search out
> the details.

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Allergy to wool 
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:56:54 +0100
Status: RO

>You know... it is, in fact, possible to be allergic to wool. I am

Did I say it wasn't possible ? No I didn't, I said I suspected in many cases
other factors were involved.

Fact of the matter is human beings wore wool for centuries, and it was
better than being cold.

Allergies are on the increase these days & the US seems to bne worse than
other places, as Henk observed. My OPINION is that we are in capable of
toleration many things because as soon as we have the slightest discomfort
we reject it's use. ie we are a bunch of softies.

But as I capitilized that is my opinion, all be it borne out my my
experiance.

Mel

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 12:41:55 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> How is the fabric manipulation on this partlet done, do you think?  It
> looks a little puffy for just intersecting pintuks...  Any ideas?
> 
> http://www.marquise.de/images/1500/1570_3d.jpg

To me, it looks like a flat partlet in a shirtweight(ish) fabric overlayed 
with a diamond -patterned mesh of pearl with enamelled buttonsd 
at the intersections (I have a couple of handfuls of buttons that look 
just like those which I picked up cheap from a clearance-sale at a 
local department stal last summer!) with a slash each diamond 
with a lighter-fabric puffed through from behind. 
 
> Incidentally, does the neckline look to you all more like woven trim
> embellished with buttons of pearl and gems, or a hard
> goldwork/bilament/"jewelled square"? 

Both the neckline on the gown and on the partlet look like a woven 
trim embellished with buttons to me.

> I do note her necklace matches the gown neckline, which I suppose
> could support the bilament concept. 

To me it looks like both are billaments (jeweles decorating bands of 
cloth/trim that could be unpicked and sewn to other garments as 
required) rather than one being a billament and the other ebign a 
necklace.... 

> I'm happy the gown has straps
> though, seeing as how I decided to do it on mine. 

Had you thought of "faking" the narrow straps by making them 
wider (for stability) and sewing the shoulder-roll or sleeve-head 
over the top so that it covers the outer portion of the strap making it 
look like a narrower strap?

I've heard of people doing this but never tried it myself.


 



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye in front-loaders (WAS: Washing wool in front-loading
 washers)
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 12:52:49 +0000 (GMT)
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> I can't answer that, but let me drop some advice about dye.  I do not
> suggest dying fabric in your new washer.  Why?  You can't prefill the
> washer with water to mix the dye before inserting the wet fabric. 
> (Once it's full of water, you can't open the door.) This'll seem
> obvious to some of you, but don't laugh!  I've seen people try to just
> add liquid dye into the soap tray in side-loading washers before!  The
> result is a  splotchy mess.

If you can get hold of Dylon Machine dye, however, it's perfect as 
its formulated specially for use in front-loading washing machines.  
I use it allthe time and have been known to rave on-list about it 
(anyone who checks the archives is bound to turn up some of my 
raves about it over the years)

Teddy
(wjo is wearing shorts and t-shirt to work today that were machine 
dyed last week in a front loader using Dylon Machine - not to 
mention the hose, paltock, sleeves and houpellande that he wore 
over the weekend, all of which look new and none of which are the 
same colours they were last summer, or the summer before)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 13:02:51 +0000 (GMT)
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> I think it may be two layers- first one with holes slashed, second
> puffed through.  If you look closely, there appears to be a line of
> fabric under the beads that would be the structure, and the puffs are
> decorative.

What Lyn said!




Teddy
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 13:12:45 +0100
Status: RO

>> (Once it's full of water, you can't open the door.) This'll seem
> obvious to some of you, but don't laugh!

Generally you can, but even if you can't, simply mix the dye in with water &
tip into the machine before you load it

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New topic: Polish costuming
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 06:41:05 -0600
Status: RO

On Mon, May 06, 2002 at 02:44:18PM -0700, Colleen McDonald wrote:
> In addition to the 14th century Italian stuff that I've been
>researching, I've also been looking into sources for clothes during
>the same period in Poland.

Is this for the SCA?  If so, you might enjoy the SCA's Slavic Interest
Group mailing list, sig@yahoogroups.com
It's aimed at the SCA crowd, but you don't have to be SCA to belong.

We also have extensive webpages, based off
	http://slavic.freeservers.com

Specifically, you'd probably like the Polish pages:
	http://www.mv.com/ipusers/heart/POLISHPAGE.HTM

					...eliz
					(SCA: Yelizaveta Medvedeva)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye in front-loaders
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:04:12 -0400
Status: RO

Teddy and other front-loader owners,

      Please tell me the mechanics of dyeing in a front loader!  I 
don't understand how it would work.  As the person wrote below, you 
can't add the dye, then open the door to add the fabric.  Or can you? 
Is the water level below the door opening?  Is there something 
different about Dylon - maybe it's slow to act so it's not blotchy? 
I'm so confused!

      I'm also very interested because I'm currently washer-free (just 
got a house sans washer & dryer) and shopping.

      Thank you!

>  > I can't answer that, but let me drop some advice about dye.  I do not
>>  suggest dying fabric in your new washer.  Why?  You can't prefill the
>>  washer with water to mix the dye before inserting the wet fabric.
>>  (Once it's full of water, you can't open the door.) This'll seem
>>  obvious to some of you, but don't laugh!  I've seen people try to just
>>  add liquid dye into the soap tray in side-loading washers before!  The
>>  result is a  splotchy mess.
>
>If you can get hold of Dylon Machine dye, however, it's perfect as 
>its formulated specially for use in front-loading washing machines. 
>I use it allthe time and have been known to rave on-list about it 
>(anyone who checks the archives is bound to turn up some of my raves 
>about it over the years)
>
>Teddy
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 09:06:56 -0400
Status: RO

N Kipar wrote:
> Hmm.... I got a message about some 1666 fabric, who was the one who wanted to
> know what 'stuf' is?

Hello,
	That was me. I'm trying to help my cousin decipher a will 
from 1666. It mentions a couple of times about a 'stuf' 
coat, and since my cousin never heard of it she asked me the 
costumer! I went: ah..... let me check with the experts! I'm 
just glad we got the letters right - it took a few times 
before I realized they were using an upright 's'.
	So the stuf coat is a wool coat. The fact that it appraised 
at over 2 pounds would make it either heavy wool or nice wool??
	-Judy Mitchell

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From: Wendi Dunlap-Simpson <litlnemo@slumberland.seattle.wa.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye in front-loaders
Cc: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 06:18:20 -0700
Status: RO

At 9:04 AM -0400 5/7/02, Carol Kocian wrote:
>      Please tell me the mechanics of dyeing in a front loader!  I 
>don't understand how it would work.  As the person wrote below, you 
>can't add the dye, then open the door to add the fabric.  Or can 
>you? Is the water level below the door opening?  Is there something 
>different about Dylon - maybe it's slow to act so it's not blotchy? 
>I'm so confused!

I want to know this, too. I figured that I would be unable to dye 
with my machine, so I dyed in one of those big pots you cook canning 
jars in, last time. It really was too small for the cloth I was 
dying, but I was lucky and it worked out anyway.
-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye in front-loaders
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 14:41:31 +0100
Status: RO

>Please tell me the mechanics of dyeing in a front loader!  I
don't understand how it would work.  As the person wrote below, you
can't add the dye, then open the door to add the fabric.  Or can you?

Yes the switch is generally on a timer not a water level indicator, you stop
the m/c & wait 5 mins. But it is easier to premix dye with water in a jug &
pour in prior to loading & cycle commencment

>Is the water level below the door opening?

Yes

>  Is there something
different about Dylon - maybe it's slow to act so it's not blotchy?
I'm so confused!

No it is a fairly old type of dye

Mel


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 14:59:54 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > If you are a member of a reenactment group, you might
> > want to check with your group's standards. 
> 
> Very forgiving. I think I'm the only one to be even considering
> period specs. Still, what's allowed is decreed by the Monarch:
> Teddy? What will you allow? 

Well, during the *previous* Great Authenticity Debate we had (early 
1990's ish) it was another of those things that was decided to be up 
to the individual.  I'm lucky enough to be able to wear contact 
lenses but I'm not going to make af uss over people wearing their 
glasses if contact lenses aren't an option (for whatever reason) - 
especially not if they're running around the kitchen producing 
sumptuous feasts to serve to me...<G> 

And I'm not about to bog down my Courts, or any other aspect of in-
persona play, with raising the matter during an event even if I *had* 
a problem with it (which I don't)

> If the plastic frames are bright orange...? 

In that case I'd just want to know where they got them and how 
much they cost!



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye in front-loaders
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 15:01:12 BST
Status: RO

The Dylon website includes the instructions, so let me cut&paste:
---------------------------------------

Dylon Machine Dye Instructions

  · For use in automatic front loading machines only. 

  · Suitable fabrics: cotton, linen, viscose and polyester/cotton mixes. Lighter 
    shades on polyester mixes because pure synthetics DO NOT pick up dye. 

  · One pack will dye up to 500g / 1 lb dry weight fabric. Dyeing larger amounts 
    (up to 1250g) will give a lighter colour. 

  You will need: 
  · 500g / 1lb of salt
    (regardless the number of packs used) 
  · Rubber gloves

Instructions:

  1. Weigh dry fabric. Wash fabric thoroughly even if new to remove stains or
     dressings which may not be visible to the eye. Leave damp.

  2. Wearing rubber gloves, empty dye into dry drum 
     (not soap dispenser or dispenser ball).

  3. Add 500g/1lb of salt, covering area where dye was added.
     Put in damp unfolded fabric.

  4. Run 60°C colourfast cotton/ fast coloureds cycle without pre-wash.

  5. When programme is finished, add wash powder and run through complete
     hottest programme for the garment, 95°C if possible. If this is less than 
     95°C, remove garment when cycle is complete and run a 95°C programme
     with detergent to ensure all dye is removed from machine.

  6. Dry fabric away from direct heat and sunlight. If final wash-off cycle was
     below 95°C, wash separately for first couple of washes to remove any 
     excess dye.







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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Specs (was level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 15:21:08 +0100
Status: RO

I agree with Maggi Ros that the sensible thing to do for what were obviously posed portraits would have been to take the specs off for a few moments!

I'm VERY short-sighted but fortunate enough to be able to wear contact lenses successfully (for 25 years now). Some people I know who do living history in close contact with the public wear period frames with loops round the ears like Cardinal de Guevara's, or at least wear small metal-rimmed ones that don't look obviously modern. As I'm beginning to need reading glasses for music, I'm thinking about investing in frames with ear loops.

I can't give chapter and verse, but I have the impression from general reading that spectacles in the 16th-17th centuries were worn mainly for reading rather than to correct short sight. As I can only see clearly a few inches from my nose, life must have been very difficult for people like me.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye in front-loaders
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 15:22:43 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Teddy and other front-loader owners,
> 
>       Please tell me the mechanics of dyeing in a front loader!  I
> don't understand how it would work.  As the person wrote below,
> you can't add the dye, then open the door to add the fabric.  Or
> can you? Is the water level below the door opening?  Is there
> something different about Dylon - maybe it's slow to act so it's
> not blotchy? I'm so confused! 

Dylon Machine dye is a powder which you place into the bottom of 
the dry drum of the empty washing machine so that it all falls 
through the holes in the drum (the instructions say something like 
tap the drum until all the dye falls through the holes, I find it easier 
to use the empty box the dye was in to push the dye around until it 
falls through) then you add a pound of salt over the area where you 
put the dye (same thing, push it around until it drops through the 
holes).

Next put in the damp fabric or garment and close the machine.  Set 
it to the regular wash cycle (without pre-wash) and the 60 degree 
temperature.. some machine's don't have seperate temperature 
selectors but the type of wash-cylce dictates the heat setting and 
the instruction book should tell you which ones they are)

Set the machine going and leave it for a couple of hours to carry 
out the whole wash cycle including rinses and spinning.

When it's finished, add your usual soap and fabric conditioners, 
reset the machine to run the wash-cycle again and whack the 
temperature up to 90 or 95 degrees (or whatever the hottest wash 
it will do is).  This washes out the excess dye, cleans the machine 
completely (I've done white washloads immediately after dye 
batches in just about every colour they sell with ill effects tot he 
whites) and sets the dye so it's colourfast.

If your machine doesn't go up that high in temperature or the fabric 
can't take a really hot wash, do it at the regular 60 degree wash, but 
wash it seperately for the next few washes as there may be a bit of 
colour-bleed.

Hope this helps

 
       I'm also very interested because I'm currently washer-free
> (just got a house sans washer & dryer) and shopping. 
> 
>       Thank you!



Teddy
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From: "Jennifer Thompson" <blue_jefiner@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples 
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 14:39:52 +0000
Status: RO

Kayta was gracious enough to let me post the picture of her last renfaire 
outfit on my site as a "Featured Attyre" costume-of-the-week, so now you can 
all check it out!  
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/feature/feature.html  Didn't she do a 
fabulous job?!?!?  Thanks Kayta!

-jen
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/


>I'm not one of that majority, and never have been.  But, as I said, you can 
>decide how you like my next SCA >outfit when you see it.  Or I can show you 
>my last Ren. Fair outfit.  Shall I send it directly to you, as an 
> >attachment?  Anyone else want to see it too, so you'd know what Henk 
>would be reacting to?

>Kayta
   //// \\\
  ////-@@\\\
((((   7 )))
  (((  <> ))))
     )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))





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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (and allergies)
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 07:45:25 +0000
Status: RO

With some folks with wool allergies, it really is the wool, not the
lanolin or the chemical treatments of the wool. Believe me, I've tested
the theory (frequently by accident).

Someone posted that allergies are some sort of immune reaction. I was
never allergic to wool until I came down with some particulary vile
strain of the flu about 15 years ago, and combined with the rheumatoid
arthritis I've had for nearly 20 years, maybe that was enough to tip me
over the edge. Fortunately, for me it's a skin contact thing (like an
acid burn) and easy to remedy.

Let that be a warning: get your flu shots! :)


						Arlys


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hawaiian textiles museums
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 08:37:18 -0700
Status: RO

To Charlene-

What a great time to go, just before the hordes arrive!!!  I remember
visiting these two places quite by accident and was glad to see they
have a web presence now.  It's good for the Hawaiian  peoples to have a
voice in the 21st century!!

Anyway, have fun with these sites and, on Oahu, try to get to the north
shore...totally different from Honolulu, etal.  Have a fabulous time, 

Theresa Eacker (who is suppressing a sudden envious desire to bolt!!)



http://www.lava.net/~mhm/quilt.htm (Mission Houses Museum, I remember
being overwhelmed with the colors and patterns!)

http://www.bishopmuseum.org/exhibits/pastExhibits/treasures/html/explore.html
(Bishop Museum, also a lovely collection,scroll down a bit for two
examples) 

http://gohawaii.about.com/cs/quilts/ (kinda of a cool cross section of
related themes)


Charlene Charette wrote:
> 
> My husband and I are going to Hawaii this month (Oahu & Maui).  I've
> flipped through the guide book and haven't found any mention of museums
> on either island that have textile exhibits.  I'd be especially
> interested in Hawaiian quilting.  Anyone have any pointers?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Charlene
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From: Truly Biggs <trulinor@yahoo.com>
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:05:17 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


I am sure that this question has been discussed before on this list - but
as I am new.....here goes.

When making a sixteenth century upper-class gown, I have so far made a
separate bodice and skirt - then hand stitched the waistband of the skirt
inside the bodice so that I never have to worry about "Chemise Eruption"
at the waist when I raise my arms. I was confronted by a lady once who
informed me that "waistbands aren't period" and she cited the Janet Arnold
Patterns of Fashion book as proof. (Not the text - the fact that none of
the gowns in the bood have a waistband pattern shown)

I looked at this, and though there are indeed not waistband patterns for
any skirts in this book (which the author herself states is not intended
to be a complete survey of sixteenth century costume - but merely a
detailed description of some marvelous extant garments) I do not feel that
this means that waistbands were "never" used. 

I DO feel that it means that sometimes the skirts Were sewn directly to
the bodices - and I wanted to collect opinions on this subject. Some of
the skirts are knife-pleated in - are these sewn to the bottom of the
bodice like a prom dress? I have been hesitant (for obvious reasons) to
try this. Are the cartridge pleats directly attached to the bottom 1/2" -
1/4" of the bodice? Does this not take up 1/2" to 1/4" of visual room on
the length of the bodice - or is it just file? A very talented friend of
mine tried this - and her lovely wool dress stretched quite a bit at the
waistline from the weight of the skirt. The solution I proposed to her was
to sew the pleats all the way through the bodice an make sure there was a
non-stretchish stay tape or petersham/grosgrain sort of thing inside. Then
I realized that that is what I use for my waistbands anyway - so why go
from what is simplest and already works.

I would love your findings on this topic. 

Truly Biggs

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT--Amazon is about to spam you
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 16:47:56 +0000
Status: RO

I know this is off topic but I need help:

I could NEVER find that "Marketing Preferences" page in Yahoo!

And as I already received a lot of spam anyway, I can't tell if I'm getting 
Yahoo spam or not...

I'm supposed to click on Account Info, that asks for password then sends me 
to a page titled Review My Account Information, and on this page I'm 
supposed to have a "Marketing Preferences" link, right?

The only thing I see in there that looks even remotely like that is a title 
"Special Offers: ", set to "Do not send me any offers". Would it have 
anything to do about the fact that my yahoo id is associated with a Yahoo 
Mail address? And that in my mail settings I wrote not to get any offers?

I'm very confused...

Thanks...

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In-Reply-To: <20020507082203.22530.qmail@web13308.mail.yahoo.com>
 "from N Kipar at May 7, 2002 09:22:03 am"
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:55:21 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Nicole!  what's changed is we've missed you!

Good to see you around :)

.heather.


> Hmm.... I got a message about some 1666 fabric, who was the one who wanted to
> know what 'stuf' is?
> 
> *looks around and wonders if things have changed during the last year while
> being off the list*
> 
> :-)
> 
> Nicole - getting ready for the 1700 mantua
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 16:58:08 +0000
Status: RO

You have to remember that the SCA lets members choose what exactly they want 
to do. Some people are in for cooking, or fighting, or costuming, or 
embroidery, or archery, or any other of a hundred activities. Some people 
think it's great to fight for crown and become king but don't give a damn 
about what they're wearing, and some people just don't care about royalty 
and such and are really there for costuming...

This is the reason I joined the SCA - because I can choose my level of 
involvement and what I want to focus on. And I think this discussion about 
level of SCA costuming is pointless, since there is nothing in the rules of 
the Society saying that we need to be accurate in what we wear. It's great 
that some people decided to research clothing and put a lot of effort into 
creating accurate costumes. I love costuming, it's my main interest, but 
it's not everyone's interest, and hopefully we can learn from one another.

And, well... it's not called Society for *Creative Anachronism* for nothing 
:-)


>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
>Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:17:59 -0700
>
>
>> >I think it is just plain silly to win a crown and title in a tournament
>>with rattan sticks.
>
>
>I can't find the original of this post, but I think this activity is a
>little silly too.  But then, I joined for the costumes, not for who is king
>next time.
>
>Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
>/----\   /---\))
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May  7 13:48:49 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 13:15:27 EDT
Status: RO


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       Would you be so kind as to send a site for viewing the entire garment? 
 The partlett is gorgeous and I would love to see the whole gown.  Thanks

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Would you be so kind as to send a site for viewing the entire garment? &nbsp;The partlett is gorgeous and I would love to see the whole gown. &nbsp;Thanks
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May  7 13:49:07 2002
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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] OT--Amazon is about to spam you
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 10:15:27 -0700
Status: RO

Hey Audrey,

This is how I did it: 

1. Went to http://www.amazon.com

2.  Clicked on "Your Account" button on the top right hand part of the page.

3. Scrolled down to the box marked "Account Settings"

4.  Clicked on the link "Update your communication preferences"

5.  This takes you directly to a page with all these little checked boxes next to "special offer" type email alert preferences.  Uncheck them all if you don't want anything from Amazon to be sent to you if it doesn't pertain to an order.  NOTE: After the slew of checked boxes there are a few more options that you should carefully read before checking/unchecking them.  These are things like email regarding your purchases and tracking info.  

Hope this helps!

Sarah Lorraine

********

On Tue, 07 May 2002 16:47:56 +0000 Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote:

I know this is off topic but I need help:

I could NEVER find that "Marketing Preferences" page in Yahoo!

And as I already received a lot of spam anyway, I can't tell if I'm getting 
Yahoo spam or not...

I'm supposed to click on Account Info, that asks for password then sends me 
to a page titled Review My Account Information, and on this page I'm 
supposed to have a "Marketing Preferences" link, right?

The only thing I see in there that looks even remotely like that is a title 
"Special Offers: ", set to "Do not send me any offers". Would it have 
anything to do about the fact that my yahoo id is associated with a Yahoo 
Mail address? And that in my mail settings I wrote not to get any offers?

I'm very confused...

Thanks...

_________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Skirt-bodice attachements, was: Re: [h-cost] totally different topic
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:58:40 -0700
Status: RO


> When making a sixteenth century upper-class gown, I have so far made a
> separate bodice and skirt - then hand stitched the waistband of the
> skirt inside the bodice so that I never have to worry about "Chemise
> Eruption" at the waist when I raise my arms. I was confronted by a
> lady once who informed me that "waistbands aren't period" and she
> cited the Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion book as proof. (Not the
> text - the fact that none of the gowns in the bood have a waistband
> pattern shown)

HA! Just because they didn't have it in one book doesn't mean that 
it didn't exist. However, even in the period pattern manuscripts, you 
don't often find waistbands shown, although they were used for 
breeches. That's because they were cut from cabbage. Besides, 
who needs a pattern for something like a waistband if they are an 
experienced sewer? You just cut it the width and length you need. 
It doesn't even have to be out of the same fabric.You can look at 
the men's breeches as a skirt parallel. Burguen has breeches 
patterns, but you don't seen waistbands or leg bands on the 
pattern. However, the extant trunkhose we do have certainly have 
both waistbands and legbands, especially since they were also 
used as lacing strips. (See JA page 30.)

> I looked at this, and though there are indeed not waistband patterns
> for any skirts in this book (which the author herself states is not
> intended to be a complete survey of sixteenth century costume - but
> merely a detailed description of some marvelous extant garments) I do
> not feel that this means that waistbands were "never" used. 

JA also doesn't have any extant dresses which had separate skirt 
and bodice. It doesn't mean they didn't exist (as Elizabeth had to 
use something with the Phoenix doublet she does show) and you 
can point to the inventories where they are listed as examples.

JA does show a forepart, but the top has raw edges so we don't 
know how it was finished. (See page 40.)

> I DO feel that it means that sometimes the skirts Were sewn directly
> to the bodices - and I wanted to collect opinions on this subject.
> Some of the skirts are knife-pleated in - are these sewn to the bottom
> of the bodice like a prom dress? I have been hesitant (for obvious
> reasons) to try this. Are the cartridge pleats directly attached to
> the bottom 1/2" - 1/4" of the bodice? Does this not take up 1/2" to
> 1/4" of visual room on the length of the bodice - or is it just file?

I don't know what you mean by "file" (unless you are talking about 
the fabric spelled "faille" but pronounced "file" which can be a bear 
to work with.)

However, the skirts can be knife pleated, box pleated or cartridge 
pleated directly onto the bodice. The cartridge pleats can be put 
directly to the bottom of the bodice or up a bit from the bottom (in 
which case it will take up some visual room, but sometimes you 
want that to give the appearance of a smaller waist.) Whatever you 
attach it to should have something inside to stabilize it so that it 
doesn't stretch (because you are certainly right that wool will 
stretch out.) In period they lined their garments with linen (and 
sometimes it was a pretty cheap looking stuff more like our burlap.)

>From what I've read of period tailoring, the various pieces (skirt, 
sleeves, bodice...) were each constructed then were combined into 
one. So, rather than having the sleeves set in like we do by sewing 
them into the bodice, then putting the lining in, the sleeves would 
be fully finished (including lining) as would the bodice, then they 
would sew them together. The skirt would probably be the same 
way. (JA has several examples of this method of construction.) (I've 
put on some very heavy sleeves onto some of my bodices and 
coats this way and have not had a problem.)

As to separate skirts, it's not clear from extant items how they 
were constructed. It is certainly an educated guess (based on the 
trunkhose example I used previously) that they were pleated (by 
whatever means) onto a waistband. 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 19:58:20 +0200
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Dear Deredere!
What a lovely weddingdress, what a lovely feast! I enjoyed the pictures
wery much.
Thanks for sharing them with us.....

Bjarne
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/index1.html

If this link doesn't work- go to the home page and search for the =
Francois Clouet's portrait of Elisabeth of Austria, Queen of France.


Lyn Greaves
Lady Rosamund d'Alwareton, CM, OTerp, OSalamander

Remember: Amateurs built the ark, but professionals built the Titanic
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: LalahTT@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 1:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] check out this partlet...


       Would you be so kind as to send a site for viewing the entire =
garment?  The partlett is gorgeous and I would love to see the whole =
gown.  Thanks=20

  Lalah=20
  Never Give up, Never Surrender,=20
  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -=20
  Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at=20
  http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html=20



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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/index1.html">http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/=
index1.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If this link doesn't work- go to the home page and =
search for=20
the Francois Clouet's portrait of Elisabeth of Austria, Queen of=20
France.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Lyn Greaves<BR>Lady Rosamund d'Alwareton, CM, OTerp, =
OSalamander</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Remember: Amateurs built the ark, but professionals built the =
Titanic</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DLalahTT@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:LalahTT@aol.com">LalahTT@aol.com</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 07, 2002 =
1:15 PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] check out =
this=20
  partlet...</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT=20
  size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Would you be so kind as to send =
a site=20
  for viewing the entire garment? &nbsp;The partlett is gorgeous and I =
would=20
  love to see the whole gown. &nbsp;Thanks <BR><BR>Lalah <BR>Never Give =
up,=20
  Never Surrender, <BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - =
- - - -=20
  - - - <BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears =
at=20
  <BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html=20
<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi Heather,

You wrote:
  >You also have to keep in mind that this particular set of photographs =

  was _not_ selected as "examples of good costuming" or even "examples=20
  of typical costuming" but rather "people who took advantage of an=20
  offer of free portrait photography at a particular event".


  You mean this wasn't your typical bunch of members of the Western =
Kingdom dressing up in their best totties for the occasion, but just the =
ones who had no money (or couldn't spare the money) to be photographed =
by a professional artist? I find that a bit hard to believe...


  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi Heather,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&gt;You also have to keep in mind that this particular set of =
photographs=20
  <BR>was _not_ selected as "examples of good costuming" or even =
"examples=20
  <BR>of typical costuming" but rather "people who took advantage of an=20
  <BR>offer of free portrait photography at a particular =
event".<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>You mean this wasn't your typical bunch of members of the Western =
Kingdom=20
  dressing up in their best totties for the occasion, but just the ones =
who had=20
  no money (or couldn't spare the money) to be photographed by a =
professional=20
  artist? I find that a bit hard to believe...</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


Hi 'Regina',

You wrote:
  > My name went through during the tenure of Wilhelm von
  Schluessel and I had to have three sources showing common usage.

  Wilhelm von Schluessel? WILHELM VON SCHLUESSEL? That's a historic =
german name? I doubt it. His last name here says: of Key, which is =
nonsense (unless it's a bad pun 'off key'). In Germany it would be: von =
der Schluessel, and the family might have been named thus because they =
lived in a a house called 'Der Schluessel" or they might have been =
locksmiths (although 'Auf der Schloss', 'Vons Schloss', might have been =
more logical that way). But never Von Schluessel!!!!  Sheesh!

  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hi 'Regina',</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&gt; My name went through during the tenure of Wilhelm =
von<BR>Schluessel=20
  and I had to have three sources showing common usage.<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Wilhelm von Schluessel? WILHELM VON SCHLUESSEL? That's a historic =
german=20
  name? I doubt it. His last name here says: of Key, which is nonsense =
(unless=20
  it's a bad pun 'off key'). In Germany it would be: von der Schluessel, =
and the=20
  family might have been named thus because they lived in a a house =
called 'Der=20
  Schluessel" or they might have been locksmiths (although 'Auf der =
Schloss',=20
  'Vons Schloss', might have been more logical that way). But never Von=20
  Schluessel!!!!&nbsp; Sheesh!</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of the=20
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one that =
is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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       Thanks, it is gorgeous.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Thanks, it is gorgeous.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 11:36:41 -0700
Status: RO

Henk,

This group of pictures in question were a free service provided by the fellow who maintains the site where the pictures are stored.  He is a freelance photographer with an interest in the SCA and uses these events as a chance to build up a personal portfolio of his work.  He offers his services to the populace for free so that he can have a wide variety of subjects to photograph.  And he is a very good photographer.  So, the situation with this particular page full of SCAers in their "Sunday Best" isn't intended to be a showcase of how awesomely dressed the populace of the West Kingdom is, but rather, one man's personal online portfolio of his photographic work.  That is what Heather/Tangwystl was trying to explain.  

Hope this clears the air a little.  :)

Sarah Lorraine

*******

On Tue, 7 May 2002 20:17:25 +0200 Henk 't Jong - tScapreel <scapreel@tip.nl> wrote:








Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval 
Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland
 
Hi Heather,
 
You wrote:

  >You also have to keep in mind that this particular set of photographs 
  
was _not_ selected as "examples of good costuming" or even "examples 
  
of typical costuming" but rather "people who took advantage of an 
  
offer of free portrait photography at a particular event".


  You mean this wasn't your typical bunch of members of the Western Kingdom 
  dressing up in their best totties for the occasion, but just the ones who had 
  no money (or couldn't spare the money) to be photographed by a professional 
  artist? I find that a bit hard to believe...
   
   
  Henk
   
   
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
"The role of the 
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation
is one that is 
  often neglected by historians"
T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 
  1998, p. 358 (note)
   
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From: Sarah Goodman<lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 11:40:04 -0700
Status: RO

Henk,

She wasn't saying that Wilhelm von Schluessel's name was period.  She was saying *her* name was accepted through the College of Herald's as being period *during* the reign of the aforementioned individual.  I'm not up on what year that was, but it was fairly early on in the history of the SCA.  I think her point was that there were some people who were aware of period naming practices early on.  

Sheesh.  This is getting really ridiculous.

Sarah Lorraine

***********

On Tue, 7 May 2002 20:24:10 +0200 Henk 't Jong - tScapreel <scapreel@tip.nl> wrote:








Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval 
Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland
 
Hi 'Regina',
 
You wrote:

  > My name went through during the tenure of Wilhelm von
Schluessel 
  and I had to have three sources showing common usage.

  Wilhelm von Schluessel? WILHELM VON SCHLUESSEL? That's a historic german 
  name? I doubt it. His last name here says: of Key, which is nonsense (unless 
  it's a bad pun 'off key'). In Germany it would be: von der Schluessel, and the 
  family might have been named thus because they lived in a a house called 'Der 
  Schluessel" or they might have been locksmiths (although 'Auf der Schloss', 
  'Vons Schloss', might have been more logical that way). But never Von 
  Schluessel!!!!  Sheesh!
   
  Henk
   
   
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
"The role of the 
  lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation
is one that is 
  often neglected by historians"
T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 
  1998, p. 358 (note)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 20:42:26 +0200
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Yo Henk!

I think you missed your nap again today!

Cass :)

> You wrote:
>>> > My name went through during the tenure of Wilhelm von
>> Schluessel and I had to have three sources showing common usage.
>> Wilhelm von Schluessel? WILHELM VON SCHLUESSEL? That's a historic german
>> name? I
>> <snip>
>>  Henk


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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">Yo Henk!<BR>
<BR>
I think you missed your nap again today!<BR>
<BR>
Cass :)<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">You wrote:<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">&gt; My name went through during th=
e tenure of Wilhelm von<BR>
Schluessel and I had to have three sources showing common usage.<BR>
Wilhelm von Schluessel? WILHELM VON SCHLUESSEL? That's a historic german na=
me? I<BR>
&lt;snip&gt;<BR>
&nbsp;Henk<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
</BODY>
</HTML>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 20:49:41 +0200
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Really Henk,

This is getting a bit out of hand. If you won=B9t play nicely, you=B9ll have to
go take time-out in the corner. Hmm and after reading your sig, perhaps you
should take an antacid too.

Cass :)

> Hi Heather,
> =20
> You wrote:
>>> >You also have to keep in mind that this particular set of photographs
>> was _not_ selected as "examples of good costuming" or even "examples
>> of typical costuming" but rather "people who took advantage of an
>> offer of free portrait photography at a particular event".
>>=20
>> You mean this wasn't your typical bunch of members of the Western Kingdo=
m
>> dressing up in their best totties for the occasion, but just the ones wh=
o had
>> no money (or couldn't spare the money) to be photographed by a professio=
nal
>> artist? I find that a bit hard to believe...
>> =20
>> =20
>> Henk
>> =20
>> =20
>> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>> "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation
>> is one that is often neglected by historians"
>> T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)
>> =20
>>=20
>>=20


--B_3103649381_1392589
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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">Really Henk,<BR>
<BR>
This is getting a bit out of hand. If you won&#8217;t play nicely, you&#821=
7;ll have to go take time-out in the corner. Hmm and after reading your sig,=
 perhaps you should take an antacid too.<BR>
<BR>
Cass :)<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">Hi Heather,<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
You wrote:<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">&gt;You also have to keep in mind t=
hat this particular set of photographs <BR>
was _not_ selected as &quot;examples of good costuming&quot; or even &quot;=
examples <BR>
of typical costuming&quot; but rather &quot;people who took advantage of an=
 <BR>
offer of free portrait photography at a particular event&quot;.<BR>
<BR>
You mean this wasn't your typical bunch of members of the Western Kingdom d=
ressing up in their best totties for the occasion, but just the ones who had=
 no money (or couldn't spare the money) to be photographed by a professional=
 artist? I find that a bit hard to believe...<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
Henk<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>
&quot;The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nati=
on<BR>
is one that is often neglected by historians&quot;<BR>
T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana"><BR>
</FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>


--B_3103649381_1392589--

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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] CALLING A HALT (was Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples)
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 12:55:22 -0600
Status: RO


I firmly believe it's time we got back on topic for the list, so let's
end this meta-discussion of SCA accuracy.  Aside from becoming rather
unpleasant, it's against the charter of the list.

" ... general discussion regarding the groups or organizations that
sponsor costumed events is discouraged."

I would also like to add the following piece of advice which I would
be grateful if all listers would keep in mind:
 
   "That which is hateful to you, do not do to others."

If you prefer, another version is "Do unto others as you would have
them do unto you."

Thanks,
				...eliz, list admin
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 11:59:20 -0700
Status: RO

Hi all,

Anyone back on the list yet from the Kalamazoo conference?  I'd really like to hear how the costume-related sessions went.

Regards,

Colleen
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA
 costuming)
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 14:35:51 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


I have been trying to avoid this conversation, but I did see this comment 
quoted:

> >   I wasn't commenting on wearing glasses ALLl the time if you need
> >   them. Just take them off when your picture is taken or when you give
> >   a press conference (and don't have to read something from a paper).
> >   I other words: when you want to look like a historic person for the
> >   outsiders take them off, when you're amongst yourselves, sure, leave
> >   them on. There's more to playing a historic character than putting
> >   on a 'costume'...

I think this hits a key point, though the author may not have realized it.
We all need to remember that different members of this list have different
purposes for their costuming. The assumption in some of the posts I've
seen is that dressing up in costume implies an attempt to present for
"outsiders," and/or to develop an individual interpretation of a specific
historically consistent character. That is certainly the case for living
history groups. The SCA, on the other hand, generally does its thing at
private events, at which the goal is not to display a coherent picture for
observers, but rather to increase understanding and awareness of the
Middle Ages/Renaissance for the *participants.* The entrance bar for
participation is deliberately set low to allow people to enter easily and
then find their own level. That means a sizable proportion of members at
any gathering are relatively new. It also means that different people
ultimately gravitate to different pursuits. Few make their personal goal
the presentation of a near-perfect period image of an individual; many
focus on a single area in which they develop understanding and expertise.
That area may be costume. It often is not.

Although SCA groups often do demonstrations for local schools and fairs
and such, there's usually a pretty clear understanding that the
individuals are demonstrating specific activities (e.g. combat techniques,
calligraphy, cooking), not that all members are carrying out a fully
realized historic role within a unified framework. The wide time/place
spread of the organization generally precludes any attempt at a coherent
group presentation anyway, but it does promote other things, such as an
individual's study of the development of a specific craft over several
centuries. When you do see the fully realized persona presentation from an
SCA person, it's because that individual has chosen to focus on that
activity. It is by no means the point of the organization. For that
matter, it's likely that a group does public demonstrations not because it
sees its purpose as "educating the public," but because it wants to
publicize its existence to attract new members who will then join and
engage in the primary (participatory) activities of the group.

(I should note that there are certainly a number of SCA members who will
announce to the spectators at a demo, or wanderers-by at a publicly
accessible outdoor site, that "We do everything just as they did then, so
we can see exactly how it felt." That's an unfortunate oversimplification,
but understandable among people who *haven't* seen what real living
history interpretation involves. At best, the older and wiser members will
instruct them. At worst, the group consists entirely of such rather
uninformed -- but usually enthusiastic -- folk. And from thence springs
many misunderstandings.)

If you were costuming for modern theater, you would have another set of
goals imposed by the constraints of the medium: Can it hold up under
repeated cleanings, can the actor remain comfortable under hot lights, can
you accomplish clothes changes quickly? That may mean the designer may
compromise on layers, techniques, materials, fastenings. But it does not
mean the designer does not wish to create an accurate visual semblance of
a period -- or perhaps make a deliberately inaccurate visual image that
combines some elements of a period's style with other elements that would
have significance to the modern viewer.

I therefore would not fault a theatre designer for making deliberate
compromises in costume to achieve these purposes. Nor do I fault the SCA
costumer who makes deliberate compromises that reflect the constraints of
*that* medium. One of those constraints is budget; another is suitability
for travel; there are others.

Perhaps those who find the SCA approach to be inadequate would have an
easier time if they did not try to classify SCA along with living history
groups. Its goals are fundamentally different, and so its compromises are
different. The SCA is a means to promote interest and study of a period
among the general nonspecialist population.  The results and expectations
reflect that. For the same reason, glasses, leg braces, and other aids are
considered "invisible" -- and people are also not faulted for clothing
themselves in styles that are inconsistent with their hair length, body
type, skin color, age, and gender. The goal is to allow the individuals to
explore the period; the costuming (and all the other activities, including
the conventions of social interaction and the awards structure) are
designed to give people a framework for that process of learning and
exploration.

I'm personally glad to see a group like the SCA out there, because it
provides a bridge for people who might not otherwise have any interest in
or understanding of history. Those who grow to want more authenticity can
either pursue it within the group or find another avenue more suited to
their revised goals.

--Robin
left the SCA around 1984 to pursue other interests, but still friendly
to/with SCA people


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] CALLING A HALT (was Re: level of SCA costuming, some
 examples)
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 14:43:00 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Tue, 7 May 2002, Elizabeth Lear wrote:

> I firmly believe it's time we got back on topic for the list, so let's
> end this meta-discussion of SCA accuracy.  Aside from becoming rather
> unpleasant, it's against the charter of the list.

My apologies. I sent my one contribution to this thread before I saw this
notice from Elizabeth. I ask that people refrain from commenting on my
post, which will not doubt appear after Elizabeth's in your inbox, but
shortly before this one.

(I console myself with the knowledge that my intent was to discuss the
variety of reasons for costuming, and how one's goals influence one's
execution. But yes, I did include some discussion of the organization in
question.)

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 21:31:06 +0200
Status: RO

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--B_3103651866_1542020
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Hello All!

Please excuse my posts responding to Henk=B9s responses. It takes like 20-30
minutes for my posts to show up and they don=B9t even show up in order. I had
written them before Eliz called halt!

Back to a regularly scheduled discussions

Cass :)



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<TITLE>Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples</TITLE>
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<BODY>
<FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">Hello All!<BR>
<BR>
Please excuse my posts responding to Henk&#8217;s responses. It takes like =
20-30 minutes for my posts to show up and they don&#8217;t even show up in o=
rder. I had written them before Eliz called halt!<BR>
<BR>
Back to a regularly scheduled discussions<BR>
<BR>
Cass :)<BR>
<BR>
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</BODY>
</HTML>


--B_3103651866_1542020--

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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 15:35:03 -0400
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You know you watch the History Channel too much when they have a program on
the history of concrete.  Stop laughing... it really was a show on the
network.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com






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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1666 Stuf coat??
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 20:37:09 +0100
Status: RO

According to the OED, "stuff" could mean either textile material in general, or a particular type of woollen textile. It was defined in 1735 as "any sort of commodity made of woollen thread, but [particularly] those thin light ones that women make or line their gowns of or with" and in 1882 as being distinguished by the absence of a nap or pile. The quotations go back to the early 17th century, though.

PS Welcome back to the list, Nicole! The more 17th century enthusiasts, the better.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hygiene
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 21:41:36 +0200
Status: RO

Oh, but I _like_ those sorts of programs! I just watched a documentary about
how these engineers moved a 650 ton 6 m wide component for a reactor through
the Bavarian countryside and through the Dorfs too. It was great

Cass :)

> You know you watch the History Channel too much when they have a program on
> the history of concrete.  Stop laughing... it really was a show on the
> network.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The History of Concrete
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 15:39:13 -0400
Status: RO

I'll stop laughing if you tell me you didn't sit and watch it!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hygiene


> You know you watch the History Channel too much when they have a program
on
> the history of concrete.  Stop laughing... it really was a show on the
> network.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 12:45:42 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

The historical group I just started working with uses
"Rain cloaks" to protect their clothing from the rain.
 I got ahold of one this weekend, but I wasn't
completely sure of its contents.  I think the outside
was made of wool (but what kind I wasn't sure), lined
with any available fabric (this cloak was lined in
satin), and interlined in the hood and shoulders with
a waterproof material (the bottom wasn't hemmed so I
could partially pull it apart).  Could anybody tell
me/suggest what kind of wool I should use on the
outside and what material I can interline it with. 
Thanks in advance for your help.
Margaret

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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 16:04:33 -0400
Status: RO

Dianne,

I was sick with the flu... okay!  It took me 15 minutes to figure out what I
was watching.  When they said the name of the show, I changed the channel
immediately.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 21:00:37 +0100
Status: RO

Cassandra wrote:

> >> And what I think is an attempt on your part to sound objective
about
> >> this is coming across to some of us as criticism and a bit
> > holier-than-thou.
> >
> > I see you are back to the unspecified we again; I do hope that you
> > don't turn out to be the Queen incognito.

> And if I were?...

I'd be politely suggesting that you reconsider the notion of swapping
the Koh-i-Noor and the Cullinans for chunks of plastic; people will,
Your Majesty, notice.  A mortgage on Buckingham Palace would be a
better option...

Yours,
loyally,
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Allergy to wool
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 16:17:38 -0400
Status: RO

Actually, allergy to wool has been around forever and it is caused by the scale
structure of wool irritating the skin.  If you look at wool under the microscope,
it is covered with small overlapping scales (a bit like those on a fish). On
finer wools, the scales are smaller and on heavier coarser wools, they are
bigger, so usually coarse heavy wools cause more allergic reactions than fine
wools. Modern "cool" wools (very lightweight) have had almost all the scale bred
out, so they should cause almost no allergic reaction. I'm not saying people
can't also be allergic to the lanolin or to finishes put on the wool later, or to
dyestuffs, or even to detergent residue on the fabric, but the scale structure is
what causes most wool allergies.
Kathy

A F Murphy wrote:

> You know... it is, in fact, possible to be allergic to wool. I am. The
> following comments are not blanket statements covering everyone, just my
> own experience.
>
> I can tell if a fabric is wool, even if other people are unsure, or even
> if they think it is something else, by touching it to my face. It
> prickles. Doesn't itch, really, but prickles. Other parts of my body, I
> get the same reaction, but it takes a little longer. Took nearly 5
> minutes to realize my arm was touching a sheepskin on a friend's sofa.
> It began to hurt, though just a little.  (I was lying down with a
> headache, and not paying attention to my surroundings.) If the edge of a
> garment touches my skin, I develop a rash. That itches... for the rest
> of the day.
>
> No, this is not the processing. I knew a woman who raised her own sheep,
> spun and wove the fabric herself. It prickled. I'm learning to spin, and
> a fleece followed me home, so I am spinning wool... it doesn't bother my
> hands, at least, not the length of time I'm handling it, (I don't spin
> long, partly because I am still learning, partly because I'm being
> careful about a wrist injury) but I can't loop the roving around my
> wrist, as I have seen some people do. And I scoured this myself! And it
> is nice and soft and fluffy.
>
> My experience, back when I had to wear suits, was that I could wear a
> wool blend over a slip. Couldn't wear pants at all, even lined ones -
> too close to the skin. Especially if I am warm, I can itch right through
> a lining. I've avoided wearing it at all, except for winter coats, for
> years.   I'm just starting to make historic costume for my own wear, and
> I plan to try a good soft wool over a heavy substantial linen. Not a
> lightweight one, I'm afraid that might not be enough. It may take a
> while to work up the nerve... Right now, I'm sticking to linen.
>
> You know - an allergy is, by definition, an abnormal reaction to a
> substance. Someone can be allergic to anything. A cucumber nearly killed
> my mother. None of this means there is anything wrong with the wool (or
> the cucumber). It's just that I can't use it!  I find I have this
> discussion someplace once or twice a year, because many people don't
> know about it, and some don't believe it. I agree that it is not common,
> here or in Europe, but it is real.
>
> Thank you!
>
> Anne
> Getting off the wool soapbox, and really wishing she could wear the
> lovely stuff
>
> Melanie Wilson wrote:
>
> >Hi Henk
> >
> >>Why is taht so in the USA? I have not heard of it overhere, Do they do
> >>
> >something with wool over there? Besides, wool is the outer layer, linen goes
> >against the skin. Nobody is allergic to linen, are they?
> >
> >Possibily the finishing in the US. It was very different both dye wise &
> >finish wise when I was working there 10 odd years ago.
> >
> >Alex, my son, if hyper sensative to powders & finishes (among other things)
> >It isn't a true allergy to wool, but manifests itself as such. So I am
> >careful about what wools I clothe him in. I suspect it is a combination of
> >such factors & a lack of use to natural fibres in many cases.
> >
> >Mel
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Ulrika A. O'Brien" <uaobrien@uci.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The History of Concrete
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 13:30:02 -0700
Status: RO

Oh, but the history of concrete is *interesting*.

I mean, the Romans had the technology -- it's how they built
things like the coffered ceiling of the Pantheon -- and then
the technology was lost again for literally hundreds of years.
It wasn't re-discovered until something like the 18th century.

(Now, you may laugh.)

--Ulrika

At 12:39 PM 5/7/2002, you wrote:
>I'll stop laughing if you tell me you didn't sit and watch it!
>
>Dianne
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 3:35 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] hygiene
>
>
> > You know you watch the History Channel too much when they have a program
>on
> > the history of concrete.  Stop laughing... it really was a show on the
> > network.
> >
> > Penny Ladnier
> > Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> > http://www.costumegallery.com
> > http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1666 Stuf coat??
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 21:30:59 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > According to the OED,
"stuff" could mean either textile material in general,
> or a particular type of woollen textile. 

Yes, yes, indeed. The references I came across, and that is up to the late
1650s/early 1660s are as such (i.e. Thomas Fuller and his "The History of the
Worthies of England" from 1662)

Stuffs
A general term applied to a variety of woollen fabrics certainly including bays
and says and serges. 

With:

Sayes and Bayes
17th century it was made of finer and lighter texture and used as clothing
material. 

Serge
Often referred to as worn by the poorer classes both by men and women, on
account of durability more than on price. Serge was often used for lining, for
example in soldier's uniforms. Nowadays serge is a very durable twilled cloth
of worsted. Fuller mentions:

"Taunton serges are eminent in their kind, being a
fashionable wearing, as lighter than cloth, yet
thicker than many other stuff."

Now comes the question though... what a hefty sum for the fabric, but then
again, it could well be a coat made from wool and lined with wool, it is
definitely wool though this 'Stuf'.

> 
> PS Welcome back to the list, Nicole! The more 17th century enthusiasts, the
> better.

Thanks Kate! And the more University employees the better too. *laughs*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] *Pokes head in*
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 21:40:13 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote: > Nicole!  what's changed is
we've missed you!
> 
> Good to see you around :)
> 
> .heather.

Ohhhh thanks! *blush* Never thought anyone would miss the antagonistic old
b*tch. *grins*

Though I do wonder if I should have taken some water pumps with me back in, for
the war that's going on again... *ducks head* :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The History of Concrete
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 16:59:16 -0400
Status: RO

'S okay. I don't much like TV, but I'll read the cereal box if there isn't
anything else!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The History of Concrete


> Dianne,
>
> I was sick with the flu... okay!  It took me 15 minutes to figure out what
I
> was watching.  When they said the name of the show, I changed the channel
> immediately.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costume sourcing info
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 17:17:34 EDT
Status: RO

Thanks for writing Angela! I am located in Pa. I make some of my costumes but 
also buy ones to rent and children's lower end to sell. I got a copy of the 
Costumers Resource catalog.but am looking for wholesalers of costumes and 
accesseroies.also do you have any idea where I could buy the colored foam 
that they use to make a lot of the costumes? Thanks so much for your help! 
Bonnie
p.s. also how to I post a question like this so everyone gets it?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the level of costuming
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 17:20:27 EDT
Status: RO

Hi! Thanks for replying! I do it all! I make a lot of my costumes to rent and 
make to sell childrens.I also but ready made and am looking for some good 
wholesalers such as Rubies (they are the only ones I found so far)for 
costumes and accessories. Also do you know where to get the colored foam that 
they use for a lot of the costumes?
thanks! Bonnie  P.s. my shop is in PA.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the level of costuming
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 17:22:59 EDT
Status: RO

Hi! What is SCA? I mostly make costumes from Simplicity,McCalls patterns 
right now but would like to get into other things but don't know where to get 
the patterns. I also buy from Rubies and would like to find other companies 
like them. I am in Pa also,
Williamsport area. thanks for any help!  Bonnie
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 17:26:01 EDT
Status: RO

Hi! I am in Pa. mostly do McCalls,Simplicity patterns right now as I don, t 
know where to get other patterns from. I rent and sell. Buy a lot from Rubies 
and would like to find more companies like them. also do you know where to 
get thecolored foam that they use for a lot of the costumes? Also what is 
SCA? thanks for your help!  Bonnie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May  7 17:42:45 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: my costume posted (was Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming,
 some examples
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 14:26:29 -0700
Status: RO


>Kayta was gracious enough to let me post the picture of her last renfaire 
>outfit on my site as a "Featured Attyre" costume-of-the-week, so now you 
>can all check it out!
>http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/feature/feature.html  Didn't she do 
>a fabulous job?!?!?  Thanks Kayta!

Thank you so much for posting that.  It occurred to me that nobody who 
doesn't know me has seen my stuff.  And till I get a web site of my own, I 
can't post anything of my own.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the level of costuming
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 17:30:37 EDT
Status: RO

Hi! I am in PA. right now I make most from Simplicity et cause I don't know 
where to get any other patterns. I also buy from Rubies and am looking for 
more companies like them. I rent adults and sell childrens costumes and 
accessories. Thanks for any help!   Bonnie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May  7 17:58:25 2002
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] (Fwd) English costume 11th C to 1830
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:45:01 +0100
Status: RO

This was pointed out to me by my dad: the site 
makes "old" books available on CD by scanning 
them, then selling the CDs at cost.

It's a Costume book, of sorts, I gather. But we have 
no idea as to author.

------- Forwarded message follows -------

... might be interested in this old book on CD 
produced by Archive CD Books. Price £16.45 inc 
VAT and postage.  

"English Costume

Fabulous descriptions of English styles of dress 
dating from the 
11th century until 1830."

See All England Lifestyle page (navigate via 
Catalogue -> Site 
Map) on

http://www.archivecdbooks.org

Must be a big book, because most of their CDs are 
 8.50 + VAT.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Allergy to wool
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:54:29 +0100
Status: RO

>Actually, allergy to wool has been around forever and it is caused by the
scale
structure of wool irritating the skin

That isn't an allergy it is an irritant. Allergies are bodies defense
mechanisms gone haywire

Mel

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From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Subject: [h-cost] Pictures of Peasant Beltaine and my dress
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 00:09:32 +0200
Status: RO

HI all!

I finally got some pictures from the weekend at Polderslot and Deredere's
wedding. (Hopefully I will get more :)))

I've put up some of my dress and general pictures from the event.

You can find them at:
http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/PhotoAlbum1.html

Beware: most of the jpgs are around 50 k or so.

Notes on my dress (I can't put this much text on this particular site - when
I have time I will move it to my own site)

Since this is my first dress based in the 16th century, I used Margo
Andersen's Elizabethan patterns with a few changes of my own.

The chemise is of fine white linen with a green satin ribbon on the gathered
top. There is cotton lace at the wrists (I didn't know if the lace should be
separate or not - it is right now) (Picture will come someday)

The corset is made of white linen and an indeterminate cream colored
material that used to be a curtain, edged with green satin and boned in the
front and in the back with 'reeds' scavenged from an Asian curtain. The tab
channels are boned with spring steel. (Picture will come someday)

The farthingale is made of cheap cotton and supported by what I think is
called wicker. It is very proto but worked wonderfully. I had no problems
sitting or squeezing into bathroom stalls ;) (Picture will come someday)

The petticoat is made of heavy cotton. Behind the foreskirt there is white
denim. The foreskirt is made of beige silk that has been sewn in a diamond
pattern (It was bought this way). Most of the 1400 Wachsperlen are sewn on
this baby and the back is lined with white silk to protect the pearl
stitching (All of this with silk thread). The foreskirt is hand sewn onto
the petticoat so that it is easily replaced.

The sleeves are of the same material as the foreskirt except for the piping
which is beige satin ribbon with hemp (?) string inside. All seams and edges
are piped. The points are of beige ribbon with (tin?) points.

The bodice is of a heavy cotton/viscose curtain brocade and boned with
spring steel to keep the point down and lined with white silk. You can't see
it in the pictures but I was not happy with this boning. The corset started
to curve to my body but the (5 pieces of) spring steel in the bodice didn't
so I thought it was very noticeable and I think with wear and getting dirty
the lines of the boning will start to get on the bodice. Anyway it is edged
in burgundy satin ribbon and is tied on both sides in the back with pink
satin ribbons.

The skirt is of the same brocade (5 meters) as the bodice and is cartidge
pleated to a waistband which I have hooked to the bodice  - but I think I
need a few more in the front area. The front is edged with burgundy satin
ribbon and a wide silver border with dusty rose, light blue and light lila
bits.

Things to do: I wanted to put on a shoulder roll and make some hanging
sleeves but didn't get that far. A partlet would be nice too - I still have
leftover beige silk and Wachsperlen.

I have also started a glass pearl belt with the pommander on the site -but
alas I forgot my bead box in Holland and I hope someone has found it!

And the hair - well, I want to make a caul from the beige silk and put
Wachsperlen on it and attach it to the fake braid headband but I simply
didn't have time. At the beginning I had a snood attached to the braid but
it was too heavy and pulled the braid off (I need a comb or something) so I
took it off and went with long hair - but hey I'm unmarried. In the BBC
production of Elizabeth R, they let the young Queen Elizabeth run around
inside with loose hair so I can get away with it this once.

So there - my first one!

Cass :)






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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures of Peasant Beltaine and my dress
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 18:14:07 -0400
Status: RO

It is truly lovely. From the pictures I've seen so far, DereDere, your
wedding was spectacular!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cassandra Greer" <cassandra@greer.de>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 6:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Pictures of Peasant Beltaine and my dress


> HI all!
>
> I finally got some pictures from the weekend at Polderslot and Deredere's
> wedding. (Hopefully I will get more :)))
>
> I've put up some of my dress and general pictures from the event.
>
> You can find them at:
> http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/PhotoAlbum1.html
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures of Peasant Beltaine and my dress
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 00:20:47 +0200
Status: RO


> sitting or squeezing into bathroom stalls ;) (Picture will come someday)

No - no pictures of me in a bathroom stall are forthcoming - so you can
relax ;)

Cass :)

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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 19:06:48 -0400
Status: RO

Oh Ulrika... you must have watched ALL of the show.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 19:15:35 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

> Anyone back on the list yet from the Kalamazoo conference?  I'd really
like to hear how the costume-related sessions went.

Very well, I think, at least for the DISTAFF sessions.  Lemme see:

One session had a paper by Carla Tilgherman (I probably mangled that
spelling) on the ruffled veil in the Arnulphini betrothal portrait that was
just amazing. She proved that the veils could be woven by warping the side
threads with weights (she also increased the thread count in those sections)
and brought in samples to demonstrate.  We all just wanted to steal them.
Also on that session was Beth McMahon's paper on some of the difficulties in
classifying French and Flemish garments in the 16th century, and Donna
Cottrell did a paper on a particular very small painting by Van Eyck.  The
next session had me, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg (doing the wills and inventories
part II paper), and another paper on wills by Kristin Burkholder.  It's
amazing some of the details available in these sources.

The non-woven textiles session was very cool. Anne Reaves did a paper on
knitting Madonnas, Chris Laning did one on some fairly early knitted bags
from Switzerland (with samples), and Anne Marie Decker did a session on
naalbinding that made me realize there was actually more than one kind of
naalbinding!  She had lovely samples of various thicknesses.

I was also part of the costume roundtable session, where about six of us
talked about studying costume from different sources. I know Robin Netherton
and Heather Rose Jones are on this list (talking about art and
archaeological sources, respectively); we also had Liz Johnson from La Belle
Compagnie doing the recreation/living history perspective, Monica Bishop
doing literary sources, and Miranda Howard Haddock doing the library
perspective.  This session was just a lot of fun--it was neat to see
everyone recognizing how important it was to see costume and dress from a
variety of perspectives.

Susan

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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 16:20:35 -0700
Status: RO

At 04:06 PM 5/7/2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>Oh Ulrika... you must have watched ALL of the show.

Oh, no, it's much scarier than that.  I have no TV.
I knew that stuff off the top of my head.  Mind like
the trash compactor on the Deathstar, that's me.




  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the level of costuming
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 16:11:08 -0700
Status: RO

At 05:20 PM 05/07/2002 EDT, KeckSimba@aol.com wrote:
>Hi! Thanks for replying! I do it all! I make a lot of my costumes to rent
and 
>make to sell childrens.


Do you do simple, comfortable rennaissance period costumes for children, in
natural fibers, that cost less than the $100+ that Chivalry Sports charges?
Will you be selling on the Net?  If so, please send me your information.
I'm the Costume and History Coordinator for a Waldorf school Mayfaire next
weekend, and I have dozens of parents clamoring for me to make costumes for
their kids, which I do not have time for at all, never mind that they
should have thought of this months ago.  It's too late for this year, the
Faire is next weekend, but I'd like to have sources to offer for next year.  

The Waldorf Schools are an excellent target market for children's costumes,
because there is strong emphasis on history, theater, and the arts.
Natural fibers and no TV related themes are also important.  Although these
are expensive private schools, many of the parents are making considerable
sacrifices to pay tuition, so, while you can charge a fair price for good
work, don't expect
price-is-no-object-for-little-McKenzie's-princess-costume attitudes. 

I think if someone were to develop a line of children's costumes,
preferably with some grow room built into them, and made well enough to
last for several years of handing down, this could be a lucrative market.  

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 20:11:25 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


I figured I'd wait to reply to Colleen's query, because almost all the
sessions I went to were the ones I organized through DISTAFF (the
dress/textiles group), and I figured someone else should give an unbiased
account ;-)  But then I realized that most of the people on this list who
were at K'zoo were in at least one of those same sessions, and were
probably modestly waiting too! I appreciate Susan's stepping forward. Some
notes on her descriptions:

On Tue, 7 May 2002, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> One session had a paper by Carla Tilgherman (I probably mangled that
> spelling) on the ruffled veil in the Arnulphini betrothal portrait
> that was just amazing. She proved that the veils could be woven by
> warping the side threads with weights (she also increased the thread
> count in those sections) and brought in samples to demonstrate.  We
> all just wanted to steal them. Also on that session was Beth McMahon's
> paper on some of the difficulties in classifying French and Flemish
> garments in the 16th century, and Donna Cottrell did a paper on a
> particular very small painting by Van Eyck.

Carla Tilghman was the one who spoke on the Arnolfini veil. She noted that
by the time van Eyck painted that portrait, the veil style was out of
fashion and had a symbolic role in the portrait (in this case, symbolizing
the state of betrothal). She compared the Arnolfini veil to other
depictions of the same period and earlier, and examined the context of the
depictions as well as the practical aspects of the veil weaving.

Donna's specialty is textiles in the paintings of Van Eyck and his
contemporaries, and her paper proposed a possible date for the painting in
question on the basis of the textiles in it, compared with those in his
other paintings.

Beth, a former member of this list, talked about her attempts to create a
coherent timeline of costume details as seen in 16th century portraits.

> The next session had me, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg (doing the wills and
> inventories part II paper), and another paper on wills by Kristin
> Burkholder.  It's amazing some of the details available in these
> sources.

Susan's paper was a close look at references to costume in a set of
records from a bishop's inspection visits, over a period of years, to the
convents, monasteries, and other communities under his authority. She
painted a vivid picture of the constant battle the bishop had getting
monks and nuns to give up their inappropriate clothing possessions, and
also to force the heads of the communities to provide suitable vestments
for church ceremonies.

Kristin had examined wills from the 14th and 15th centuries that have
never been published, as far as I know. She databased the references to
specific willed items, the giver, and the receiver, and did statistical
analysis on them. Among her findings: Women were more likely to detail
linen goods and clothing items individually. Black was the most popular
color for clothing, followed by red and blue, with scarcely any mention of
yellow. And much, much more.

Danielle gave a paper a couple of years ago on clothing references in a
set of 16th century wills; this paper continued with jewelry and accessory
references in the same group. She focused mostly on matching up the
sometimes cryptic terms in the wills with specific types of extant objects
and details in paintings.

> The non-woven textiles session was very cool. Anne Reaves did a paper
> on knitting Madonnas, Chris Laning did one on some fairly early
> knitted bags from Switzerland (with samples), and Anne Marie Decker
> did a session on naalbinding that made me realize there was actually
> more than one kind of naalbinding!  She had lovely samples of various
> thicknesses.

Anne has done several knitting papers for us before. Her past
presentations have been on practical aspects of knitting, based on her
examination of artifacts, but this one was on the presentation and
iconography of knitting Madonnas, with a special eye to the tools and
techniques illustrated in paintings.

Chris was a first-time presenter and a current? former? member of this
list. She managed to get very detailed images of a small group of knitted
silk purses in Switzerland -- early samples, I think 14th century -- and
showed how they were designed and constructed.

Anne Marie was not only a first-time presenter, but also a first-time
K'zoo attendee. I was *thrilled* to have her. I think she educated a lot
of people on just how far back nalbinding goes (Paleolithic era) and why
it's commonly confused with knitting, sprang, and other nonwoven textiles.

> I was also part of the costume roundtable session, where about six of
> us talked about studying costume from different sources. I know Robin
> Netherton and Heather Rose Jones are on this list (talking about art
> and archaeological sources, respectively); we also had Liz Johnson
> from La Belle Compagnie doing the recreation/living history
> perspective, Monica Bishop doing literary sources, and Miranda Howard
> Haddock doing the library perspective.  This session was just a lot of
> fun--it was neat to see everyone recognizing how important it was to
> see costume and dress from a variety of perspectives.

The literary expert was actually Monica Wright, who did her dissertation
on costume references in 12th century romances. (Susan can be excused for
having bishops on the brain!) We had quite a lively discussion, once
people found their way onto familiar ground such as grousing about limited
access to artifacts, poor cataloguing of artworks, and ambiguous
terminology in documents.

I managed to make it to a couple of other sessions, including one that
usually focuses on costume symbolism but this time included a basic
overview of 13th c. costume as seen in the illuminations of Ordinary
People in a legal manuscript.  I also made it to a session on Anglo-Saxon
crafts, organized by Gale Owen-Crocker (my partner in DISTAFF). That one
included three British scholars: Elizabeth Coatsworth analyzing how
Anglo-Saxon brooches were designed, Michael Pinder discussing the
techniques by which they were made (with slides of him replicating the
process), and Katrin Thier describing Anglo-Saxon shipbuilding.  That last
one was particularly interesting because the speaker was with the Oxford
English Dictionary, and she made some reasonable conclusions about
shipbuilding processes by correlating the available English vocabulary for
shipbuilding terms with the few remnants of archaeological finds (and also
with Scandinavian practices, terms, and finds, which are better documented
because more has survived).

Now it's time to work on *next* year's sessions.

--Robin

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Allergy to wool/RA/history of concrete
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 13:57:44 +1200
Status: RO

> >Actually, allergy to wool has been around forever and it is caused by the
> scale
> structure of wool irritating the skin
> That isn't an allergy it is an irritant. Allergies are bodies defense
> mechanisms gone haywire

Thank you, I was about to post the same thing. The fact is that human hair
too has scales, and it can certainly irritate, but it is not an allergic
reaction. It's a mechanical process. Just as the person who posted about
lanolin stripping the top layers of skin off ( I've never heard of this but
I'm discussing the process of exfoliation rather than the properties of
lanolin here anyway;) ) this is irritation not allergy too.

This is what I meant before about intolerance and allergies being confused..
too much misinformation in the media, and who's going to read a medical
journal

I would have watched that history of concrete:). After going to The Globe
and finding out what their ground was composed of (the shells of edible nuts
make a big part) it got me thinking about how much concrete there in in our
modern day cities.. andjust what the difference between concrete, tarmac,
asphalt etc actually is and when they were first used. And what difference
it makes to the needs of shoes....


And Cynthia J Ley, I too have Rheumatoid Arthritis. I now know three of us
on this list with this. I thank my doctor and what ever other powers that be
for getting onto it immediately. It was about a month after my first syptoms
(I thought my wrist was broken it was that painful) til my first RF test. It
was only slightly allevated, but he wrote anyway for an appointment with a
specialist.

How do you find hand sewing? I've found I cannot do more than say a few
hours over two days before my knuckles double in size and I need extra
anti-inflamatories and complete rest of the joints.

Did your initial flare of RA coincide with a bout of the flu? Mine did.
Supporting the idea that it's the immune system mistaking the synovium as an
antigen .

Answer me off list if you'd rather:). It's the biologist in me that wants to
know. Like I said I studied immunology at Uni and RA was one of the
subjects. It horrified me at the time.. so to have been hit with my single
biggest fear was rather life shattering.. At the time, I'm dealing with it
quite well now:)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/index.htm



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Subject: Re: my costume posted (was Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming,some 
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 23:06:24 -0600
Status: RO

Hey, you look pretty good, for a girl with a mustache <ggg>.  Nice
costume (insert enthusiastic punctuation here...my keyboard's cranky).
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> >Kayta was gracious enough to let me post the picture of her last renfaire
> >outfit on my site as a "Featured Attyre" costume-of-the-week, so now you
> >can all check it out!
> >http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/feature/feature.html  Didn't she do
> >a fabulous job?!?!?  Thanks Kayta!
> 
> Thank you so much for posting that.  It occurred to me that nobody who
> doesn't know me has seen my stuff.  And till I get a web site of my own, I
> can't post anything of my own.
> 
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 00:47:37 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks for the pointers.

> Theresa Eacker (who is suppressing a sudden envious desire to bolt!!)

I have one friend begging me to smuggle him in my luggage.  :)

--Charlene

-- 
You can fool too many people too much of the time.  -- James Thurber
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 00:51:16 -0500
Status: RO

Penny Ladnier wrote:
 
> You know you watch the History Channel too much when they have a program on
> the history of concrete.  Stop laughing... it really was a show on the
> network.

Yup, I recorded it.  Only watched part of it, though.  I had too much
else to get caught up on.  TIVO has figured out I like documentaries. 
:)

--Charlene

-- 
You can fool too many people too much of the time.  -- James Thurber
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Subject: [h-cost] Band Uniforms (changing the title)
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 02:28:49 -0400
Status: RO

Now you all surprise me!  I just saw a vintage magazine on eBay about
concrete.

You all won't believe some of the menswear magazines I have purchased from
eBay in the past two weeks.  I am determined to get some menswear on my
site. Oh, you'll see them down the road.

I am looking for someone who would know what 1920 band uniforms would look
like.  I purchased a catalog and the dealer said it was 1920s.  But I can't
find the date on it anywhere.  I wrote the dealer back asking him, but he
hasn't replied.  Most of the uniforms in the catalog are marching band
uniforms, and there are a few military uniforms. The retailers name is D.
Klien & Bro. from Philadelphia, PA.  So if you know anything about this
subject, please give me a yell.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 12:02:23 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I was sick with the flu... okay!  It took me 15 minutes to figure out
> what I was watching.  When they said the name of the show, I changed
> the channel immediately.

Never mind, Penny,   I was late for work one morning because I got 
caught up watching an Open University programme on BBC2 on 
flying buttresses.....

Teddy
(who has also sat fascinated through tv shows detailing how to 
injection-mould plastics, how fibreglass boat hulls are made and 
various other topics covered in Open university courses)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The History of Concrete
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 04:59:00 -0700
Status: RO


> > I was sick with the flu... okay!  It took me 15 minutes to figure out
> > what I was watching.  When they said the name of the show, I changed
> > the channel immediately.
>
>Never mind, Penny,   I was late for work one morning because I got
>caught up watching an Open University programme on BBC2 on
>flying buttresses.....

Let's get this back on topic - how about the 1930's Mobster's favourite 
garments:  concrete overshoes and cement overcoats ;)


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  8 08:28:54 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] RIT dyes in front-loading washer
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 08:13:49 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Hey, folks,
I finally heard back from RIT about using their dyes in the Neptune
(front-loading washer).  This is what they recommend.  Will have to try it
and report back :)

Cheers,
Mara

> As long as the tub is stainless or porcelain, you can dye in it.
> Add the
> pre-mixed dye to the liquid container following with 2 cups of hot
> water.
> Do the same with liquid dyes.  As the washer is filling the dye
> will mix.
> We have not experienced any problems with these instructions.
>
> Consumer/Technical Advisor



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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 09:05:28 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

When I saw this, I thought of Bjarne's fine work :D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=2100477508

-- Mara


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th c. French man's court coat on Ebay
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 14:21:07 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net> wrote: > When I saw this, I thought
of Bjarne's fine work :D
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=2100477508
> 
> -- Mara

It's lovely, and of course I saved the pictures staright away but... OHMIGOD
that guy is putting the coat on!!!! It's a silk coat, the silk is already
shattered in places, dry rot has set in and he's putting it on and flexing and
bending his arms and stuff. Makes my lil heart bleed, couldn't he put it
carefully just onto a stand...

Anyway, I think that Bjarne's embroidery is BETTER! :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 07:25:52 -0600
Status: RO

On Tue, May 07, 2002 at 05:17:34PM -0400, KeckSimba@aol.com wrote:
> p.s. also how to I post a question like this so everyone gets it?

Actually, the default of the mailing list is to send the reply back to
the list.  If you've been thinking your replies are only going to the
individual, that would explain why we've seen 4-5 almost identical
postings from you in the last day or so.

						...eliz

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Subject: [h-cost] Band Uniforms
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 09:08:25 -0500
Status: RO

There are three sources that are kinda connected to each other and a fourth
that I would recommend but I fear you most likely have already found them,
but just in case....

This site has book recommendations for men's fashions of that era, (scroll
down to the bottom), http://www.nhmccd.edu/contracts/lrc/kc/decade20.html

The other two are your local high school archives and the local college
archive that was in existence in the 20's. If they had yearbooks you will
find great pictures of the men in band uniforms. The same goes for the
military. My dad was in the navy in the 50's and they had a military
yearbook for their aircraft carrier. I am making the assumption that the
military had yearbooks but I have no idea when they started making them.
However, when it comes to photo archives the military has them as far back
as the invention of the camera.

I have a pattern from Simplicity that I cannot find any more in the stores
and it is not that old. It is called Team Spirit, Men's cheer squad, drum
major, and band uniforms, # 8363. Donna Lang is the designer. If you can
find her, you may be able to get more sources since she had to of used older
patterns or photos to create these.

Hope that helps. :)

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Steppes, Ansteorra
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 1:28 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Band Uniforms (changing the title)


> Now you all surprise me!  I just saw a vintage magazine on eBay about
> concrete.
>
> You all won't believe some of the menswear magazines I have purchased from
> eBay in the past two weeks.  I am determined to get some menswear on my
> site. Oh, you'll see them down the road.
>
> I am looking for someone who would know what 1920 band uniforms would look
> like.  I purchased a catalog and the dealer said it was 1920s.  But I
can't
> find the date on it anywhere.  I wrote the dealer back asking him, but he
> hasn't replied.  Most of the uniforms in the catalog are marching band
> uniforms, and there are a few military uniforms. The retailers name is D.
> Klien & Bro. from Philadelphia, PA.  So if you know anything about this
> subject, please give me a yell.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 10:11:37 -0500
Status: RO

Does anyone on the list know of any other fabric suppliers that carry the same brocade fabrics that Timeless Textiles does?  I have a friend in a real bind for a particular pattern (burgundy & gold, ak017) that they are out of.  

Thanks,
Catherine

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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 12:26:38 -0300
Status: RO

I have a University of Kentucky yearbook from 1927.  The band members are
wearing VERY plain uniforms.  Dark trousers and a matching military tunic
with a mandarin collar.  There's a plain military hat with a flat top and a
bill. Over this is a very meager (no more than half a circle) wrist-length
cape that fastens at the neck and has a simple Peter Pan-ish collar.  The
cape is, I suspect, UK blue and is bordered in white.  Across the chest, in
white, are the letters KENT   UCKY.

The drum major is totally turned out in white pants, extremely tall shako a
with tassels and cords and a snappy waist-length coat (I think it has tails)
covered in braid.  There's a white belt.  He's the only one who looks like
he stepped out of The Music Man.

Martha


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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 14:15:55 EDT
Status: RO

Stevie,

<< But then, by definition, you are not attempting to reproduce a 16th
 century costume. >>

I'm attempting to reproduce the "look" of a 16th Century gown.  It is a 
costume, though, not a museum-quality replica.  True.

<<Ouch! Not to anyone who has any familiarity with pearls, they don't...>>

Seeing as how I own a real pearl choker, I do have some familiarity with 
pearls.  There are grades of faux pearls, and some are quite realistic.  But 
each to his/her own opinion.

<<You are choosing to use a wide variety of fakes for a variety of
reasons. I'm not criticising your choices in any way; I'm simply
noting that your outfit will bear no resemblance to anything actually
worn in the 16th century.>>

I'd say "no" resemblence is a bit of an overstatement.  My gown will 
certainly resemble portraits of the era.  It's difficult to tell from paint 
on wood or canvas just which fabrics were worn.  However, I agree that it 
will not accurately recreate extant garments for those who are textile 
historians, no.  I only have $100 to spend on this frivolous item for myself 
-- because I'm currently buying decorations for my wedding --  so one makes 
do.  For clients willing to pay for the proper materials, including real 
pearls, I will happily do a more authentic job.  I'd so love to do a true 
reproduction garment!

No offense taken,
Gillian

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 14:32:39 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/6/02 2:02:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< I've been concentrating on 
 cooking as authentically as possible, not on 
 costume. Other have been concentrating on music, 
 or brewing, or weapons.... you can't be an expert on 
 everything, there isn't time. >>

This is very true in my own barony of the SCA.  Another thing I've noticed is 
that just because you have read all the documents and studied extant 
garments, doesn't mean you know how to sew (or can sew well).  Historically, 
sewing was much more common because "off-the-rack" retail is a new concept.  
Even those who didn't sew their own clothes could usually repair them.  
Today, it's different.  Sewing is "recreational" for most; true seamstresses 
are few and far between.  So, modern-day people just don't have sewing 
skills.  There are some very learned folks in my barony that I go to for 
information on different eras/countries, but many of them still hire me to 
sew the clothes up for them because I am a seamstress in my mundane life.  
Others just make their own garb to the best of their sewing ability.  I 
credit them for the effort and the atempt to broaden their skills, even if it 
means seeing some fairly poor garb at events.  

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: linen allergy
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 14:49:21 EDT
Status: RO


<<  I have never before heard of
 someone being allergic to linen! How does that happen? I thought that
 linen was almost perfectly neutral and inert, it certainly should have
 long enough fibers that the prickly ends wouldn't be a problem. I've
 never felt a decent linen that was the least bit scratchy, although some
 really cheapo ones which are made with inferior/discards of linen can be
 a just tad scratchy.  >>

I have what doctors call "hyper-sensitive skin".  I must wash all my clothes 
in dye-free fragrance-free detergent, and very rarely find a perfume I can 
wear.  If I brush into an Angora sweater on a mall rack, I get hives in 30 
seconds flat!   Here's something else you may not have heard of:  I'm 
allergic to gold!  (My wedding band has o be platinum because of it.)  Most 
people believe gold is inert, but something like 3% of the world is allergic 
to it.  I've only met one other person who was, in my 27 years of life.  
Luckily, I am not allergic to silver or nickel (whereas nickel is a common 
metal allergy.  Go figure!).  Anyway, I once got away with a linen/rayon 
blend.  Rayon made the hand noticeably silkier to the touch, so I'm guessing 
the allergy is in fact a scratchiness thing.  I don't seem to break out from 
handling it when I sew for others -- just if I wear it and sweat.  Then 
again, since sweat seems to be what starts the rash, maybe it is a chemical 
thing?  I prewash all my fabric, since I'm allergic to many sizing 
treatments, so it would have to be something that doesn't wash out.

I'd love to find out it's something that could be corrected...

--Gillian
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 15:03:51 EDT
Status: RO


<< Furthermore, genuine pearls are available from Australia for a very cheap 
price, though of course using 1500 would not be cheap ever. The Australian 
ones are freshwater pearls but chosen for their regularity. >>

Would you have any contact info for these?  I mean, heck, if I can afford 
real I'll certainly use them on my wedding gown.

--Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examplesHenk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Consultants
Dordrecht - Netherland


H-Costume list

Cass wrote:
  >This is getting a bit out of hand. If you won't play nicely, you'll =
have to go take time-out in the corner. Hmm and after reading your sig, =
perhaps you should take an antacid too.

  I would like to remind all of you (and Eliz) that this thread started =
with the following message from Kayta:

  >> >In case anyone wants to see them, here are some recent examples of =
SCA
  >>costuming, taken this past January:
  >>
  =
>><http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/>http://www.keradwc.com/2002010=
5_west12/
  >>
  >> >Even some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing better.

  I merely reacted to what I saw in the above mentioned URL and advised =
people who 'play' in the SCA that the result of this type of picture =
would be better if people took off their glasses while photographed and =
I commented on the ongoing use of non period materials (both in cloth =
and costume jewelry) within the SCA, about which I elaborated in a =
further post by advising members of said SCA, that if they were not able =
to or would not spend the money on aristocratic 'garb', they would do =
better to step down the status ladder a bit, because simpler costume is =
cheaper to imitate and looks better than re-used curtainmaterial. Some =
personal observations, if you like.

  I've been through this same kind of interchange with SCA members =
several times before in the 4 years I'm on this list and I know I should =
have been forewarned. I explained I had not slept well when I wrote my =
first mail and tend to 'sound' rather stern at these times. I apologised =
for that.

  I know SCA members don't like to hear 'negative' news about their =
hobby, and I think I know why. Most of them react with a staggering =
degree of agressiveness, which in this case, was out of all proportion =
to my rather terse comments, and I was, again (It must be a kind of =
naivite on my side), kind of stunned by it. I reacted, hopefully, in a =
quiet manner and explained to some where I thought the reader did not =
understand me or had not read correctly that which was for all you other =
readers quite clear. Just lately I got rather irritated though, about =
some funny reasons why silly names were chosen or why the people of the =
Western Kingdom's Feast of Kings were photographed (which reasons some =
of you tried to explain in a far more subdued manner than others).

  Look, it could be because I'm not a native English speaker, but I =
think some SCAdians deliberately read things in what I write which are =
surely not in there. I do know, that I have had enough of it. Reactions =
as the above I can do without. I've grown to old for this shit.

  Since about a year I don;t read much in the H-Costume list that really =
interests me. I also cannot spare the time anymore to wait around until =
Robin, Susan, Heather, the Cynthia's and others write about medieval =
cothing and I cannot contribute much anymore as well, being a very busy =
self-employed businessman. So here I say farewell to you all. I've =
learned a lot, also about other costume than medieval and thank those =
who enlightened me for it. I leave the SCA following their Dream and =
wish them pleasant ones, but let me say that I think that the underlying =
principle of the society does not give the study of history much of a =
boost. I fact: I think it causes the reverse effect, not withstanding =
the few percents who really try to get more 'authentic' (whom I wish all =
the luck they so deserve).

  Regards,


  Henk


  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  "The role of the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better =
nation
  is one that is often neglected by historians"
  T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London (etc.), 1998, p. 358 (note)

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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some =
examples</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<DIV>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Consultants<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>H-Costume list</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Cass&nbsp;wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana>&gt;This is getting a bit out of hand. If =
you won&#8217;t=20
  play nicely, you&#8217;ll have to go take time-out in the corner. Hmm =
and after=20
  reading your sig, perhaps you should take an antacid =
too.<BR></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>I would like to remind all of you (and Eliz) that this thread =
started=20
  with the following message from Kayta:</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&gt;&gt; &gt;In case anyone wants to see them, here are some =
recent=20
  examples of SCA<BR>&gt;&gt;costuming, taken this past=20
  January:<BR>&gt;&gt;<BR>&gt;&gt;&lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/">http://www.keradwc.com/2=
0020105_west12/</A>&gt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.keradwc.com/20020105_west12/">http://www.keradwc.com/2=
0020105_west12/</A><BR>&gt;&gt;<BR>&gt;&gt;=20
  &gt;Even some old Hippies of my SCA acquaintance are dressing=20
better.<BR></DIV>
  <DIV>I merely reacted to what I saw in the above mentioned URL and =
advised=20
  people who 'play' in the SCA that the result of this type of picture =
would be=20
  better if people took off their glasses while photographed and I =
commented on=20
  the ongoing use of non period materials (both in cloth and costume =
jewelry)=20
  within the SCA, about which I elaborated in a further post by advising =
members=20
  of said SCA, that if they were not able to or would not spend the =
money on=20
  aristocratic 'garb', they would do better to step down the status =
ladder a=20
  bit, because simpler costume is cheaper to imitate and looks better =
than=20
  re-used curtainmaterial. Some personal observations, if you =
like.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I've been through this same kind of interchange with SCA members =
several=20
  times before in the 4 years I'm on this list and I know I should have =
been=20
  forewarned. I explained I had not slept well when I wrote my first =
mail and=20
  tend to 'sound' rather stern at these times. I apologised for =
that.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I know SCA members don't like to hear 'negative' news about their =
hobby,=20
  and I think I know why.&nbsp;Most of them&nbsp;react with a staggering =
degree=20
  of agressiveness, which in this case, was out of all proportion to my =
rather=20
  terse comments, and I was, again (It must be a kind of naivite on my =
side),=20
  kind of stunned by it. I reacted, hopefully, in a quiet manner and =
explained=20
  to some where I thought the reader did not understand me or had not=20
  read&nbsp;correctly that which was for all you other readers quite =
clear. Just=20
  lately I got rather irritated though, about some funny reasons why =
silly names=20
  were chosen or why the people of the Western Kingdom's Feast of Kings =
were=20
  photographed (which reasons some of you tried to explain in a far more =
subdued=20
  manner than others).</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Look, it could be because I'm not a native English speaker, but I =
think=20
  some SCAdians deliberately read things in what I write which are =
surely not in=20
  there. I do know, that I have had enough of it. Reactions as the above =
I can=20
  do without. I've grown to old for this shit.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Since about a year I don;t read much in the H-Costume list that =
really=20
  interests me.&nbsp;I also cannot spare the time anymore to wait around =
until=20
  Robin, Susan, Heather, the Cynthia's and others write about medieval =
cothing=20
  and I cannot contribute much anymore as well, being a very busy =
self-employed=20
  businessman. So here I say farewell to you all. I've learned a lot, =
also about=20
  other costume than medieval and thank those who enlightened me for it. =
I leave=20
  the SCA following their Dream and wish them pleasant ones, but let me =
say that=20
  I think that the underlying principle of the society does not give the =
study=20
  of history much of a boost. I fact: I think&nbsp;it causes the reverse =
effect,=20
  not withstanding the few percents who really try to get more =
'authentic' (whom=20
  I wish all the luck they so deserve).</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Regards,</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Henk</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^<BR>"The =
role of=20
  the lower intestine in the efforts to build a better nation<BR>is one =
that is=20
  often neglected by historians"<BR>T. Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum, London =
(etc.),=20
  1998, p. 358 (note)</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_005B_01C1F6D2.CE348CC0--

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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 16:04:39 EDT
Status: RO


<< The HERALDS are getting better!!!!!????  I beg your pardon!  Who in the
 world do you think submits God Buda Odinson (okay, THAT was a heraldic joke
 that can be documented), or Fairylee Glamora Gossimer Nightshade! >>

ROTFLMAO!!

<< Not the
 Heralds.  It's the populace, and they get pissed as h*ll when someone has
 the effrontery to tell them no, or even suggest that they (note THEY!  NOT
 THE HERALDS) should do some research on a period name. >>

I think what Elisabeth meant by better is that the heralds are taking a more 
aggressive role in educating the populace before they submit such lousey 
names, or after someone's first choice gets rejected.  They certainly are in 
my barony.  It was like, "Oh, you're new?  Welcome! Have you chosen a persona 
name yet?  Here's a list of websites and books with period names.  Do you 
have a preference of century and country?  Oh, Elizabethan England?  Good!  
Here's 3 websites with documentable names to get you started..."   I got 
jumped on the first week!  *laugh*  But that was totally great for me.  I 
can't imagine how long it would've taken me to find a name on my own.

--Gillian
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 13:18:54 -0700
Status: RO

> Then again, since sweat seems to be what starts the rash,
> maybe it is a chemical thing?  I prewash all my fabric, since I'm
> allergic to many sizing treatments, so it would have to be something
> that doesn't wash out.

While things like sizings will wash out, the formaldehyde reaction I 
mentioned in a previous post is a permanent bonding of the 
formaldehyde to the fibre.

As to skin reactions, they are due to the skin being hypersensitive. 
That hypersensitivity can be to friction (such as scratchiness), 
chemical reactions or allergies. The allergists I work with call it 
"twitchiness". There are people who get hives from a gentle stroke 
of the skin (called dermatographia) and imagine what something 
scratchier can do!


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  8 16:32:38 2002
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 13:13:19 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I once thought of writing a paper about all of the things that I have been
told "aren't period"

(Note that no particular era was specified)

Since most of these things were told to me at SCA events - I will assume
that "period" means anywhere from 400 AD to 1603 AD.

That said - here is my list - and I hope that it amuses:


Hats  (my favorite!)
Pockets
Buttons (hmmmmm)
Spectacles
Knit fabric (fine gauge - like hose)
Hooks and eyes
silk (gotta Love that!)
finished seams (that one too)
plaid (wow)
Waistbands for women (presented in a previous post
Smocking
Cross-stitch (I saw it myself in the clothing room of the MMA with a
magnifying glass!)
purple dye
off-the-rack clothing
faux pearls and gems
fake hair
underwear (breeches)

other non-clothing issues:
women who own shops
Female bards
harps  (no type specified - just harps in general)
Carriages
Saddles with pommels

Can anyone add to my list?

Truly







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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 13:30:59 -0700
Status: RO

How about nails, to which, of course, the proper response is, "What do you
think they nailed Jesus to the cross with?"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Truly Biggs" <trulinor@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 1:13 PM
Subject: [h-cost] my list of amusements


> I once thought of writing a paper about all of the things that I have been
> told "aren't period"
>
> (Note that no particular era was specified)
>
> Since most of these things were told to me at SCA events - I will assume
> that "period" means anywhere from 400 AD to 1603 AD.
>
> That said - here is my list - and I hope that it amuses:
>
>
> Hats  (my favorite!)
> Pockets
> Buttons (hmmmmm)
> Spectacles
> Knit fabric (fine gauge - like hose)
> Hooks and eyes
> silk (gotta Love that!)
> finished seams (that one too)
> plaid (wow)
> Waistbands for women (presented in a previous post
> Smocking
> Cross-stitch (I saw it myself in the clothing room of the MMA with a
> magnifying glass!)
> purple dye
> off-the-rack clothing
> faux pearls and gems
> fake hair
> underwear (breeches)
>
> other non-clothing issues:
> women who own shops
> Female bards
> harps  (no type specified - just harps in general)
> Carriages
> Saddles with pommels
>
> Can anyone add to my list?
>
> Truly
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 16:40:58 -0400
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: <Azelana@aol.com>

  Here's something else you may not have heard of:  I'm
> allergic to gold!  (My wedding band has o be platinum because of it.)
Most
> people believe gold is inert, but something like 3% of the world is
allergic
> to it.  I've only met one other person who was, in my 27 years of
life.


Make that two.  And I've had the scratch tests to prove it from an
allergist.

Jeanne
whose wedding band was hand-made in 14th century casting style, in
sterling silver.  Cost us $42 for both bands.



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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 23:06:16 +0200
Status: RO

Hello

Thanks a lot for this. Yes it looks very like my suit, even the colour two.
It will be finished in 2 months...........Yuppiee yahooooooo

Bjarne

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

> When I saw this, I thought of Bjarne's fine work :D
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=2100477508
>
> -- Mara
>
> _______________________________________________
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--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
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tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 22:26:15 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Truly Biggs <trulinor@yahoo.com> wrote: > I once thought of writing a
paper about all of the things that I have been
> told "aren't period"
> 
> (Note that no particular era was specified)

That's impossible then. As if there were no difference between 400 and a mere
thousand years later 1400.

> Since most of these things were told to me at SCA events - I will assume
> that "period" means anywhere from 400 AD to 1603 AD.
> 
> That said - here is my list - and I hope that it amuses:

*rubs hands*
sooo.... if I had time, which I have not, I could probably amuse myself indeed
with dissecting the list below according to date, place, social place,
circumstance, and goodness me whatever else. :-) Like this it would have to be
'depends' after each entry, and yes, it depends on many factors which sometimes
makes those items indeed 'not period'.

> Hats  (my favorite!)

Men or women?

> Pockets

True, true, no pockets whatsoever in Anglo-Saxon clothing of the period I
research.

> Buttons (hmmmmm)

See above, but... button-similar metal objects in a Scandinavian grave of the
5th century. Though not functioning as buttons, positioned at the wrists.

> Spectacles

Which dat again, it depends and their shape and function of course. The modern
glorious idea of spectacles with sides doesn't come in before the 1720s.

> Knit fabric (fine gauge - like hose)

Ahhhh, knitting is relatively young.

> Hooks and eyes

hehe, well.. guess what, it depends. :-)))

> silk (gotta Love that!)

hmm.. well... the amount of silk, even in a royal grave, is in appr. the 7th
century Anglo-saxon still acutely minimal, so in a way 'nor period' for anyone
below a king. hehe.

> finished seams (that one too)

*ROTFLMAO* now THAT is a gooden.

> plaid (wow)

That one too.

> Waistbands for women (presented in a previous post

waistbands? as in things one stitches the skirt onto? sheesh.

> Smocking

me-not-know-nuffin

> Cross-stitch (I saw it myself in the clothing room of the MMA with a
> magnifying glass!)

tscha, but what kind... 

> purple dye

Certainly available, what else were the stripes on a Roman senator's toga, but
then again not wearable for anyone who wasn't clergy for a loooong looong time.
which is a terrible shame because I had found the most stunning purple silk and
gold metal brocade in Russia. *pout*

> off-the-rack clothing

depends... I could write a lot about that for the 17th c but I shall refrain.

> faux pearls and gems

This I hand over to Stevie because she knows a lot about that. 

> fake hair

*LOL* the oldest beauty method...

> underwear (breeches)

very very young idea indeed, I agree with the questioneer that underwear is a
very modern concept. 

> other non-clothing issues:
> women who own shops

aha! now that is interesting, have just been to a conference this saturday at
christ church uni, and many of the speakers dealt with that. under certain
circumstances, yes. (talking about london here) and they went back to the 14th
century.

> Female bards

I have never heard of any female bard. Enlighten me. What is understand under
bard anyway.

> harps  (no type specified - just harps in general)

now that is poorly by the questioneer, because we have a couple of replica
harps/lyres at home which are replicated from surviving fragments, one 6th and
another 8th century.

> Carriages

yeah, right, and one walks beside the horse. ;-)

> Saddles with pommels

know nuffin again

> Can anyone add to my list?

oh yes! We were once asked when in early 6th century Anglo-saxon kit "ah, but
you're cheating, aren't you? they didn't have women in those times..."

AHRGH!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 21:31:00 +0000
Status: RO

Out of curiosity, if it's a permanent bonding, then how can it cause a 
reaction? I was under the impression that a permanent bond was just that - 
permanent. Meaning it was less likely to be broken and so be reactive. 
Perhaps you just mean it's not a water-soluble bond, but is saline soluble?

Mary/Katerine

>While things like sizings will wash out, the formaldehyde reaction I
>mentioned in a previous post is a permanent bonding of the
>formaldehyde to the fibre.
>


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Subject: [h-cost] beading on Worth 1890's gowns
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 16:44:54 -0500
Status: RO

I have a doll-sized pattern of a copy of a circa 1894 Worth ball gown as
pictured in Harper's Bazaar.  The original calls for ciel blue silk and
black fur trim. I have had some beautiful black bunny fur stashed and
finally found some sky-blue silk that is both opaque, but thin, crisp and
smooth. The description of the beading of the gown does not give the
color(s) of the beads. The beading design is of iris flowers on long leafed
stalks and the design is outline only, not a filled-in set of motifs.  I've
looked in my books for any color pictures of circa 1890's Worth ball gowns
that would inform me for certain whether Worth beading of this type was done
in colors, or was white or clear.  I was thinking of doing the beading with
size 014 glass beads in pale clear green and the flowers in clear white and
clear mauve or purple.  But is a single color like white, clear or even a
clear blue to match the gown color more authentic?  I live no where near a
museum with a collection or even a single Worth gown.  Many thanks

Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 14:47:03 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

> 
> > Female bards
> 
> I have never heard of any female bard. Enlighten me. What is understand
> under
> bard anyway.Perhaps the term bard is indeed the problem - but 


Hmmmm....Marie de France is a fine example of precisely the sort of
musician/composer/performer that the person who told me that did not know
about.

I won't go on ad nauseum - she has several websites about her.

Plus - she has nothing to do with costume : )

Truly




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 16:56:50 -0500
Status: RO

I must have fallen asleep .. isn't this a place where any extended 
discussion of the SCA was pretty much frowned on?  Some do a good job with 
their clothes, some don't.  That pretty much covers it.  Can we get past 
this?

Marc

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Subject: [h-cost] Pearl Supplier
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 22:33:10 +0000
Status: RO

Gillian,
I have seen freshwater pearls that are very well shaped at Fire Mountain 
Gems.  You can order their free catalog from the website or order online.  I 
personally have not purchased anything from them, but my parents are 
goldsmiths and have used FMG quite frequently with great success.  Their 
site is: http://www.firemountaingems.com/

I don't know if their prices will fall into your budget, but check it out 
anyway.  It's like Christmas to get their catalog!

I am in no way associated with this company.  I just like to pass on a good 
deal when possible.  :)

good luck with the dress!

:) jessica

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen allergy/gold allergy
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 18:34:40 -0400
Status: RO

Make tat 2 pepl ;-)

I am allergic to gold as well. I found out the hard way - my
earlobes en-hived about 10 minutes after I put a pair of very
expensive 18 k earrings in [my mom's jade and pearl drop earrings
- would have looked absolutely fabulous wih my seafoam green
italian renn ;-(  ]

margali
-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> I've only met one other person who was, in my 27 years of
> life.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen allergy
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 16:03:10 -0700
Status: RO

> >While things like sizings will wash out, the formaldehyde 
reaction I
> >mentioned in a previous post is a permanent bonding of the
> >formaldehyde to the fibre.

> Out of curiosity, if it's a permanent bonding, then how can it cause a
> reaction? I was under the impression that a permanent bond was just
> that - permanent. Meaning it was less likely to be broken and so be
> reactive. Perhaps you just mean it's not a water-soluble bond, but is
> saline soluble?

In an allergy, there is no part of the molecule which is removed and 
then does something to the body. The body reacts to the allergenic 
part while it is attached.

Think of the ability to have an allergy like a keyhole. The key (the 
formaldehyde part) is welded to the bigger part (the fibre), but the 
key works even better because it's easier to manipulate when it's 
attached to something.

So, the formaldehyde does indeed form a permanent (non-soluble 
in anything) bond with the fibre, which actually makes it *more* 
likely to cause allergies than if it was all by itself.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] beading on Worth 1890's gowns
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 19:13:43 EDT
Status: RO


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Cindy, there might be something in the photos at this site from the Museum of 
the City of New York from their collection of Worth dresses that will help....

http://www.mcny.org/worth.htm

Good luck!

Gervase

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Bookman Old Style" LANG="0">Cindy, there might be something in the photos at this site from the Museum of the City of New York from their collection of Worth dresses that will help....
<BR>
<BR>http://www.mcny.org/worth.htm
<BR>
<BR>Good luck!
<BR>
<BR>Gervase</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 17:38:17 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

[from the list of "non-period" things]
> purple dye

Depends on how you define this.  _Violet_ dyes were uncommon.
There were quite a few different cheap alternatives to cochineal
for the "royal" red-purple of the period.  One of the other dyers
on the list came up with a period text full of cheap alternatives 
to what we were taught to think of as expensive dyes.  By the elizabethan
period, there was a whole market out there for cheaper dyestuffs.

Now, that doesn't mean that _everyone_ would wear those colors, but 
certainly the merchant-class wore them.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  8 21:04:39 2002
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 16:57:47 -0700
Status: RO

At 05:38 PM 05/08/2002 -0700, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
>[from the list of "non-period" things]
>> purple dye
>
>Depends on how you define this.  _Violet_ dyes were uncommon.
>There were quite a few different cheap alternatives to cochineal
>for the "royal" red-purple of the period.  One of the other dyers
>on the list came up with a period text full of cheap alternatives 
>to what we were taught to think of as expensive dyes.  By the elizabethan
>period, there was a whole market out there for cheaper dyestuffs.


Oh, good, because the fabric I just dyed for my new Elizabethan middle
class gown came out, not the  deep purplish blue I was trying for, but a
rather brisk violet.  It's outside drying on the lawn, and the contrast is
so pretty I've decided to give it a grass green forepart and sleeves. 

What can I say, I'm just not a subtle person.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 22:15:22 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. Just a side note on the pearl issue. I have to find the source, but I had
read a report from New Spain in the 16th cent. that described the pearl
fisheries off the coast of (Central or South) America, describing pearls the
size of hen's eggs. Even if 16th Cent. hens laid much smaller eggs than today,
that's still something to crow about ;). The descriptions also mention hundreds
of the Spanish variant of pounds being shipped both in the 16th and 17th cents.
These pearl beds have been since fished out... The Swedes in early 17th Cent.
New Jersey and Pennsylvania describe seing very large shells, and archaeological
reports from the Chesapeake show dwindling sizes of shellfish starting from the
beginning of European colonization. I believe that there was a time where these
large pearls could be had in abundance, but we greedy humans did unrepairable
damage to the ecosystem through our ignorance and greed.   Mike T.


>
>
> If you look at the sheer number of enormous pearls in portraiture (and this
> includes later on in 17thC art of *non* aristocracy) there must have been a
> large number of fakes. The number of naturally occuring pearls of that size,
> let alone regularity (some artistic licence taken into account also) would
> never natch up to what is seen.

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From: Osmondia@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen allergy
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In a message dated 5/8/02 11:56:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Azelana@aol.com 
writes:


> I have what doctors call "hyper-sensitive skin".  I must wash all my clothes 
> 
> in dye-free fragrance-free detergent, and very rarely find a perfume I can 
> wear.  If I brush into an Angora sweater on a mall rack, I get hives in 30 
> seconds flat!   Here's something else you may not have heard of:  I'm 
> allergic to gold!  (My wedding band has o be platinum because of it.)  Most 
> 
> people believe gold is inert, but something like 3% of the world is 
> allergic 
> to it.  I've only met one other person who was, in my 27 years of life.  
> Luckily, I am not allergic to silver or nickel (whereas nickel is a common 
> metal allergy.  Go figure!). 

I understand totally I am also allergic to gold...within 1 minute I break out 
in blisters whereever it touches.  But the best one is being allergic to 
tylenol.  I am very good at reading any label on any med I buy.

Osmondia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/8/02 11:56:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Azelana@aol.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have what doctors call "hyper-sensitive skin".&nbsp; I must wash all my clothes <BR>
in dye-free fragrance-free detergent, and very rarely find a perfume I can <BR>
wear.&nbsp; If I brush into an Angora sweater on a mall rack, I get hives in 30 <BR>
seconds flat!&nbsp;&nbsp; Here's something else you may not have heard of:&nbsp; I'm <BR>
allergic to gold!&nbsp; (My wedding band has o be platinum because of it.)&nbsp; Most <BR>
people believe gold is inert, but something like 3% of the world is allergic <BR>
to it.&nbsp; I've only met one other person who was, in my 27 years of life.&nbsp; <BR>
Luckily, I am not allergic to silver or nickel (whereas nickel is a common <BR>
metal allergy.&nbsp; Go figure!). </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I understand totally I am also allergic to gold...within 1 minute I break out in blisters whereever it touches.&nbsp; But the best one is being allergic to tylenol.&nbsp; I am very good at reading any label on any med I buy.<BR>
<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May  8 23:34:41 2002
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 23:14:13 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, I certainly don't qualify as an expert, but the Guevara spectacles are of
the sort that come from that period. I sent Drea some docs a while back about an
excavated pair from (I think) the 1540s-1570s, which were just the
sit-on-the-nose type, but additional stability was achieved with the addition of
loops of cord or perhaps ribbon from the temple position around the ears, as is
seen in the painting, in some cases (such as a person with a sharp, non-fleshy
nose such as myself). Since textiles do not generally survive well under most
conditions, it is possible that some of the excavated spectacles had cords (not
solid earpieces like modern glasses). In fact, the position of the wire/rivet
holding the frames around the lenses suggests this possibility. I have not yet
reproduced the frames, however, so the real use of this positioning is still
conjectural to me. Again, the differences from modern spectacles is as follows;
They were most probably for only part-time wear, in fact, the inclusion of them
in the painting at all most probably alluded to the Cardinal's need to have
himself portrayed as a scholar (we think of paintings sometimes as like
snapshots, but they were more like graduation or wedding photos, posed to show
the sitter at their best, with all of the attendant symbolism, in the same way
that saints of this period were portrayed with their attributes, or the tools of
their martyrdom, etc.). The lenses were (as the painter has shown the eyes)
magnifying, the cords behind the ears were probably a bit annoying after a
while, sweaty, dirty and chafing, and the lenses certainly couldn't be
maintained at the proper angle and plane to satisfy a modern optometrist that
vision correction was being achieved. Aside from these things, the painting is a
great example of a person of that period wearing spectacles. Mike T.



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Subject: [h-cost] Schluessel
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 20:32:41 -0700
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examplesI may have misquoted
Master Wilhelm's name (Wilhelm was a period name I believe).  It may well
Wilhelm von der Schluessel.  His mundane name is William Keys.   As a place
name one of my favorite towns in Bavaria is Schluesselfeld, and there is a
Schluesselberg up in the corner of Nordrhein-Westfalen and Niedersachsen
between Hannover and Osnabrueck.  Schluessel is also a real favorite
Gasthaus name around Worms which has a key on its ancient arms (just got
back from Germany and had to cross the Rhein bridge every day back into
Worms).


Yes, this was over 20 years ago, and documentation was required even then
for a name.  Mine was particularly necessary to document, as you might
imagine.  Still have it around here someplace.

Regina Romsey
(Romsey had a Royal Abbey in 980, at least one of the townswomen who gave to
the place was named Regina.)
  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cassandra Greer
  Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 11:42 AM
  To: h-costume@indra.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples


  Yo Henk!

  I think you missed your nap again today!

  Cass :)


    You wrote:

      > My name went through during the tenure of Wilhelm von
      Schluessel and I had to have three sources showing common usage.
      Wilhelm von Schluessel? WILHELM VON SCHLUESSEL? That's a historic
german name? I
      <snip>
       Henk


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some =
examples</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D911430503-09052002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>I may=20
have misquoted Master Wilhelm's name (Wilhelm was a period name I=20
believe).&nbsp; It may well Wilhelm von der Schluessel.&nbsp; His =
mundane name=20
is William Keys.&nbsp;&nbsp; As a place name one of my favorite towns in =
Bavaria=20
is Schluesselfeld, and there is a Schluesselberg up in the corner of=20
Nordrhein-Westfalen and Niedersachsen between Hannover and =
Osnabrueck.&nbsp;=20
Schluessel is also a real favorite Gasthaus name around Worms which has =
a key on=20
its ancient arms (just got back from Germany and had to cross the Rhein =
bridge=20
every day back into Worms).</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D911430503-09052002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D911430503-09052002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D911430503-09052002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Yes,=20
this was over 20 years ago, and documentation was required even then for =
a=20
name.&nbsp; Mine was particularly necessary to document, as you might=20
imagine.&nbsp; Still have it around here someplace.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D911430503-09052002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D911430503-09052002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Regina=20
Romsey</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D911430503-09052002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>(Romsey had a Royal Abbey in 980, at least one of the =
townswomen who gave=20
to the place was named Regina.)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
h-costume-admin@indra.com=20
  [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Cassandra=20
  Greer<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 07, 2002 11:42 AM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
  h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA=20
  costuming, some examples<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana>Yo=20
  Henk!<BR><BR>I think you missed your nap again today!<BR><BR>Cass=20
  :)<BR><BR></FONT>
  <BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face=3DVerdana>You wrote:<BR></FONT>
    <BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face=3DVerdana>&gt; My name went through during =
the tenure=20
      of Wilhelm von<BR>Schluessel and I had to have three sources =
showing=20
      common usage.<BR>Wilhelm von Schluessel? WILHELM VON SCHLUESSEL? =
That's a=20
      historic german name?=20
  =
I<BR>&lt;snip&gt;<BR>&nbsp;Henk<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLO=
CKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen allergy
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 15:21:01 +1200
Status: RO

I chould talk about allergies first.. I got too involved in chemicals (re
gold being 'inert') that people might turn away. Not that I've had any feed
back on my posts anyway so I wouldn't really know if they were being read
anyway;)

http://www.emedicine.com/EMERG/topic25.htm
This is anaphylaxis, which is what I experienced with the flax seed oil.
Horrifying at the time. I only had this reaction when I actually ingested
the oil. I can apply it to my legs for muscle cramp with no adverse
reaction. It might also be that I use it sparingly and infrequently too.

There is a good explanation of what happens, but I'm looking for a more
general text:
http://allergy.mcg.edu/advice/urtic.html
Explains there is a  difference between allergic reaction and non allergic
urticaria (hives)
http://www.fpnotebook.com/DER16.htm
this is bringing back memories something fierce... hastily scribbling notes
IgE, IgG, IgM...B cells, T cells.... sigh. All I need now is to find a
diagram;)
http://rex.nci.nih.gov/PATIENTS/INFO_TEACHER/bookshelf/NIH_immune/html/imm13
.html
well look what I found;)
Do have a look around if you want to know about immunology. It's exremely
facinating as to just how complex our various defence systems are. And of
course, with increased complexity comes an increased chance for things to go

>   Here's something else you may not have heard of:  I'm
> > allergic to gold!  (My wedding band has o be platinum because of it.)
> Most
> > people believe gold is inert, but something like 3% of the world is
> allergic
> > to it.  I've only met one other person who was, in my 27 years of
> life.

Inert is a chemical term, argon helium etc are in a column of the periodic
table of the elements. Technically gold isn't inert,
http://www.csrri.iit.edu/periodic-table.html
The row on the far right, Helium, Neon, Argon et al are inert. Gold does
react chemically, it just doesn't oxidise at any rate like iron, copper etc.
See how Gold and silver are in the same column too, Au and Ag. Both do form
compounds, and gold salt are used in the treatment of RA.

I remember being taught at high school that if you bolt a bar of gold and a
bar of silver together, over time they will bond and become inseperable.
This however is not a chemical reaction, just the movements of the atoms
(simplifying here I know physicists) that cause the surfaces to heet and
merge. I think it was as an example of how an alloy is a mixture of metals,
and not a chemical process.

Chemistry and biology do overlap considerably, seeing as we are basically
made up of a mulitude of molecules and they have chemical interactions.

I escaped doing stage two chem, stage one organic and inorganic papers were
plenty enought. My lab coat still reeks of the chemicals we used.

Not that bio was much safer;). We delt with a number of carcinogens and
dyes. And some stuff called fly nap. No the flies do not have a nice sleep,
they died.

I felt rather abused when I discovered that;)

And getting flies with eyes on their wings just never really made me happy
either.

michaela


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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 15:28:24 +1200
Status: RO

> Out of curiosity, if it's a permanent bonding, then how can it cause a
> reaction? I was under the impression that a permanent bond was just that -
> permanent. Meaning it was less likely to be broken and so be reactive.
> Perhaps you just mean it's not a water-soluble bond, but is saline
soluble?

There isn't actually a chemical reaction on the end of the allergen. it's
the body that has the reaction. I suppose you could compare it to a
catalyst, ie triggers the reaction, but isn't used up/altered in the
process.

I think the resulting urticaria is of the non allergic kind:
http://allergy.mcg.edu/advice/urtic.html
http://www.fpnotebook.com/DER16.htm

Because it's a known irritant.... I remember the Urban Myth of someone
buying second hand clothes that were taken from corpses and were covered in
formaldahyde... it caused paranoia and the fear that second hand clothes
were harmful. *rolls eyes*.

michaela


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCAcostuming)
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 21:29:07 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote:
[...]
> These pearl beds have been since fished out... The Swedes in early 17th Cent.
> New Jersey and Pennsylvania describe seing very large shells, and archaeological
> reports from the Chesapeake show dwindling sizes of shellfish starting from the
> beginning of European colonization. I believe that there was a time where these
> large pearls could be had in abundance, but we greedy humans did unrepairable
> damage to the ecosystem through our ignorance and greed.   Mike T.

So you're saying that Arlo Guthrie's tale about "giant humongous clams" is
actually true...
[After Arlo got tired of singing Alice's Restaurant" over and over again,
he replaced it with a wandering tale about the first settlers in America
encountering clams so huge that they had feet.  ">SNAP< And that was one
less kid for America, and one smilin' smirkin' giant humongous clam!"]

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 00:22:16 -0400
Status: RO

Kevyn Aucoin makeup artist has died from a brain tumor at 40 y.o.  Many of
us first saw Kevyn on Oprah doing makeovers.  He was bet know for doing
makeup for the stars.  He was also author of three books, "Face Forward,"
"Making Faces," and "The Art of Makeup."  For a full article go to
http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/ap/20020508/ap_wo_en_ge/us_ob
it_aucoin_1

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May  9 00:46:38 2002
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 00:28:19 -0400
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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There is a museum catalog for that Worth exhibit on ebay right now!
 
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com 
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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<DIV>There is a museum catalog for that Worth exhibit on ebay right =
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 23:47:31 -0500
Status: RO


>Never mind, Penny,   I was late for work one morning because I got
>caught up watching an Open University programme on BBC2 on
>flying buttresses.....
>
>Teddy


Oooohhh! I *love* flying buttresses! Seriously!
Buttressing of architecture is a fascinating subject. That was one of
my favorite parts of my art history class in college.

Sheryl Nance-Durst



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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 23:49:08 -0500
Status: RO

Marc Carlson wrote:
 
> I must have fallen asleep .. isn't this a place where any extended
> discussion of the SCA was pretty much frowned on?  Some do a good job with
> their clothes, some don't.  That pretty much covers it.  Can we get past
> this?

Eliz has already called a halt to it, but it takes awhile to die because
people post before reading all the messages -- therefore posting before
they've seen her "let's play nicely" message.

--Charlene

-- 
You can fool too many people too much of the time.  -- James Thurber
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] level of SCA costuming, some examples
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 21:25:16 -0700
Status: RO


>>So here I say farewell to you all.

Some of us will miss you a lot.

Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] beading on Worth 1890's gowns
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 21:26:55 -0700
Status: RO


>Look for a book called 'The Opulent Era'.  It has many colour pictures of 
>Worth stuff up close, and tons of b/w pictures.

>I have a doll-sized pattern of a copy of a circa 1894 Worth ball gown as
>pictured in Harper's Bazaar.  The original calls for ciel blue silk and
>black fur trim. I have had some beautiful black bunny fur stashed and
>finally found some sky-blue silk that is both opaque, but thin, crisp and
>smooth. The description of the beading of the gown does not give the
>color(s) of the beads. The beading design is of iris flowers on long leafed
>stalks and the design is outline only, not a filled-in set of motifs.  I've
>looked in my books for any color pictures of circa 1890's Worth ball gowns
>that would inform me for certain whether Worth beading of this type was done
>in colors, or was white or clear.  I was thinking of doing the beading with
>size 014 glass beads in pale clear green and the flowers in clear white and
>clear mauve or purple.  But is a single color like white, clear or even a
>clear blue to match the gown color more authentic?  I live no where near a
>museum with a collection or even a single Worth gown.  Many thanks
>
>Cindy Abel
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 21:52:21 -0700
Status: RO


> > Pockets
>
>True, true, no pockets whatsoever in Anglo-Saxon clothing of the period I
>research.

Janet Arnold finds pockets in German Ren. garments.

> > Buttons (hmmmmm)
>
>See above, but... button-similar metal objects in a Scandinavian grave of the
>5th century. Though not functioning as buttons, positioned at the wrists.

Janet Arnold finds buttons, and button holes, in Ren. garments.

> > Spectacles
>
>Which dat again, it depends and their shape and function of course. The modern
>glorious idea of spectacles with sides doesn't come in before the 1720s.

El Greco painted a portrait including a pair of glasses with sides, in 
1575.  There's another pair, shown in '20,000 Years of Fashion', which I 
think has side pieces (page 231, #472).

> > Knit fabric (fine gauge - like hose)
>
>Ahhhh, knitting is relatively young.

Elonore of Toledo was buried, in 1562, in a pair of knitted stockings done 
at almost as small a gage as a modern t-shirt.

> > Hooks and eyes
>
>hehe, well.. guess what, it depends. :-)))

Breughel shows these in a painting done in the mid-1500's, and they look 
almost exactly like the modern ones.

 > underwear (breeches)

>very very young idea indeed, I agree with the questioneer that underwear is a
>very modern concept.

The inventory of Mary Queen of Scots has under-drawers listed.  (I have 
this second-hand, from the book 'The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots'.)

 > Carriages

>yeah, right, and one walks beside the horse. ;-)

Davenport's costume book has a German picture of one of these dated 1491 
(page 371, #987).

> > Saddles with pommels
>
>know nuffin again

The Metropolitan Museum has one, I forget the date, but from some time in 
the 1400's, as I recall.  Not your 'Western Saddle', but definitely with a 
pommel.

> > Can anyone add to my list?

It's not period, in the SCA timeframe, to question the historical 
authenticity of a garment some else is wearing by saying "that's not 
period" about it.


Kayta
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 21:55:03 -0700
Status: RO


>the cords behind the ears were probably a bit annoying after a
>while, sweaty, dirty and chafing, and the lenses certainly couldn't be
>maintained at the proper angle and plane to satisfy a modern optometrist that
>vision correction was being achieved.

My old pair, the ones I can't afford to have replaced, are like that right 
now as I type this reply.


Kayta
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Subject: your date is off by a month (was Re: [h-cost] Re: names etc.
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 22:08:23 -0700
Status: RO

Stevie Gamble writes, in a message sent 08:51 PM 6/6/02 +0100:

Kayta
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 22:35:02 -0700
Status: RO

My favorite color combination!  But I have to admit that, after 20-<mumble>
years of Faire (RPF) training, I still find myself sewing anything in any
shade of purple going "I shouldn't be doing this.  I shouldn't be doing
this." :)

I do it anyway.


MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margo Anderson
> Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 4:58 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
>
>
> At 05:38 PM 05/08/2002 -0700, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> >[from the list of "non-period" things]
> >> purple dye
> >
> >Depends on how you define this.  _Violet_ dyes were uncommon.
> >There were quite a few different cheap alternatives to cochineal
> >for the "royal" red-purple of the period.  One of the other dyers
> >on the list came up with a period text full of cheap alternatives
> >to what we were taught to think of as expensive dyes.  By the elizabethan
> >period, there was a whole market out there for cheaper dyestuffs.
>
>
> Oh, good, because the fabric I just dyed for my new Elizabethan middle
> class gown came out, not the  deep purplish blue I was trying for, but a
> rather brisk violet.  It's outside drying on the lawn, and the contrast is
> so pretty I've decided to give it a grass green forepart and sleeves.
>
> What can I say, I'm just not a subtle person.
>
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
>
>
> See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Costume sourcing info
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 22:48:37 -0700
Status: RO

Someone who is fairly new to e-mail (my mother in law, for instance :) needs
to learn to look at the To: line after hitting Reply/Reply All/whatever.  If
the list address is displayed, it's going to the whole list.  If a single
person's address is all you see, your reply is going to them only. If both,
then both.   Do this first, even before starting to type your reply.

Everything you need is right in front of you.  You just have to look. :)


MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Elizabeth Lear
> Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 6:26 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costume sourcing info
>
>
> On Tue, May 07, 2002 at 05:17:34PM -0400, KeckSimba@aol.com wrote:
> > p.s. also how to I post a question like this so everyone gets it?
>
> Actually, the default of the mailing list is to send the reply back to
> the list.  If you've been thinking your replies are only going to the
> individual, that would explain why we've seen 4-5 almost identical
> postings from you in the last day or so.
>
> 						...eliz
>
>

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 23:00:48 -0700
Status: RO

LOL, well the thing about affording them is that no one will ask you. If you
are in a theatrical situation (like a Faire) the real object is to find
simple metal frames that don't call attention to themselves.  No aviator
stules, no photo-grey lenses.  If you can't live without them and you can't
tolerate contact lenses, find plain, round wire frames and face it out.

(If you can't live without sunglasses--well, are you sure?  Faires and
Tourbnies are full of shady pockets.  They are green with non-reflective
trees and grass instead of glarey concrete and asphalt.  Give it a try.)

References: I know there is a whole book on spectacles, the reminder of
which title I begged from someone last year, and which I have lost in the
recent hard drive crash. And in that book are any number of 15th-16th
century samples of spectacles with side pieces. The information is out
there. I've seen it.  While it appears that these were probably all worn as
reading glasses by people for whom reading is a daily matter (not true of
every tradesman, craftsman, farmer, or even every noble) your audience won't
care, and you'll get through the day.  Or you might try being just as blind
as any severely nearsighted person would have been and only using your
glasses for important things like shopping!

What would they have done?  Well, whatever it was, they did it, didn't they?


MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jane Williams
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 2:13 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: Jane Williams
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA
> costuming)
>
>
> Maggie Secara <maggiros@adelphia.net> wrote :
>
> > Spectacles (with Side pieces) on are period for Elizabethans
> (those who can
> > afford the,which would be anyone who can afford velvet) and probably 100
> > years earlier.
>
> Yippee!
> Can you point me at pictures, descriptions, or anything?
>
> (Never mind how I afforded them: I probably robbed someone).
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:12:24 +0100
Status: RO

On 8 May 2002 at 22:26, N Kipar wrote:

> > Spectacles
> 
> Which dat again, it depends and their shape and function of course. The modern
> glorious idea of spectacles with sides doesn't come in before the 1720s.

Huh? I thought we'd just found a portrait showing 
specs with sides in around 1600, and were awaiting 
comments from our Spectacle Experts?


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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:12:24 +0100
Status: RO

On 8 May 2002 at 23:14, leigh tartaglio wrote:

> Hi, I certainly don't qualify as an expert, but....

You know more than I do, and that's close enough: 
thanks!


> They were most probably for only part-time wear, in fact, the inclusion of them
> in the painting at all most probably alluded to the Cardinal's need to have
> himself portrayed as a scholar

Makes perfect sense to me. 

> The lenses were (as the painter has shown the eyes)
> magnifying, the cords behind the ears were probably a bit annoying after a
> while, sweaty, dirty and chafing, and the lenses certainly couldn't be
> maintained at the proper angle and plane to satisfy a modern optometrist that
> vision correction was being achieved. Aside from these things, the painting is a
> great example of a person of that period wearing spectacles.

You think the things behind the ears are cords? Not 
bars? I'll have to look again...



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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:31:19 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 
> > > Pockets
> >
> >True, true, no pockets whatsoever in Anglo-Saxon clothing of the period I
> >research.
> 
> Janet Arnold finds pockets in German Ren. garments.

Oh yes, dear, but you are talking plus-minus 1000 (!!!) years later.
Anglo-Saxon, as in mainly 6th-8th centuries. NOT with a 1 in front of it. :-)

> > > Buttons (hmmmmm)
> >
> >See above, but... button-similar metal objects in a Scandinavian grave of
> the
> >5th century. Though not functioning as buttons, positioned at the wrists.
> 
> Janet Arnold finds buttons, and button holes, in Ren. garments.

The same goes as above. I don't think that 5th century and 15th/16th century
are comparable AT ALL.

> El Greco painted a portrait including a pair of glasses with sides, in 
> 1575.  There's another pair, shown in '20,000 Years of Fashion', which I 
> think has side pieces (page 231, #472).

No, it doesn't have the modern side pieces. They are loops. The idea of side
pieces came up with the wig-spectacles in the 1710s/20s. I managed to get hold
of via inter library loan pretty much _the_ book on historical spectacles, a
humonguous edition and no way a private person could afford it. Anyway, amongst
the hundreds and hundreds of photos of extant spectacles and pictures of
details of paintings and engravings were none like the modern idea before the
1710/20s. Now... prove me wrong and I stick my tongue out to the editors of the
books I have read. hehe.

> > > Knit fabric (fine gauge - like hose)
> >
> >Ahhhh, knitting is relatively young.
> 
> Elonore of Toledo was buried, in 1562, in a pair of knitted stockings done 
> at almost as small a gage as a modern t-shirt.

There we are, young. very young. The same goes as above, it all depends on
which period. 'between 400 and 1600' is not articularly enlightening.

> > > Hooks and eyes
> >
> >hehe, well.. guess what, it depends. :-)))
> 
> Breughel shows these in a painting done in the mid-1500's, and they look 
> almost exactly like the modern ones.

Oh yes, hooks and eyes are a very old thing, though I know notfrom when it
started exactly, that must be in between the periods I research i.e. between
appr. 8th or 9th century and 17th century. 

>  > underwear (breeches)
> 
> >very very young idea indeed, I agree with the questioneer that underwear is
> a
> >very modern concept.
> 
> The inventory of Mary Queen of Scots has under-drawers listed.  (I have 
> this second-hand, from the book 'The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots'.)

That IS very young. Apart from taht it wasn't common at all. So it's  Queen,
and underwear islisted. Oh yes, Samuel Pepys mentions once that Elizabeth
donned a pair, why did he mention it? because he found it so outrageous and
unusual that she did. There are many more references scattered throught that I
came across the 16th and 17th centuries that women were not wearing them, as
well as the scattered references that sometimes they did and that was unusual
enough to be mentioned. 

>  > Carriages
> 
> >yeah, right, and one walks beside the horse. ;-)
> 
> Davenport's costume book has a German picture of one of these dated 1491 
> (page 371, #987).

That was a joke, dear, joke as in hahaha, we all laugh? :-)

> The Metropolitan Museum has one, I forget the date, but from some time in 
> the 1400's, as I recall.  Not your 'Western Saddle', but definitely with a 
> pommel.

Ah, taht's interesting, do you know  a piccie anywhere of that one?

> It's not period, in the SCA timeframe, to question the historical 
> authenticity of a garment some else is wearing by saying "that's not 
> period" about it.

That only works for 1st person portraiture.

Anyway, I think that rudeness of such sort of walking up to someone unasked and
unsolicited is not very period for any period. So I hope...

Officially back to work with a morning cuppa now

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:35:18 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote: > Hi, I certainly don't qualify
as an expert, but the Guevara spectacles are of
> the sort that come from that period. I sent Drea some docs a while back about
> an
> excavated pair from (I think) the 1540s-1570s, which were just the
> sit-on-the-nose type, but additional stability was achieved with the addition
> of
> loops of cord 

Pete Butler here in England makes those frames out of boiled leather, they are
brilliant, look just like 'the real thing'.

Nicole

=====
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Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:37:57 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Truly Biggs <trulinor@yahoo.com> wrote: > > 

> Hmmmm....Marie de France is a fine example of precisely the sort of
> musician/composer/performer that the person who told me that did not know
> about.

Ah, yes, nice name, but WHEN was she active? Please, please a plea here, when
people talk about things being 'period' and even in the SCA time frame (though
this is not an SCA list of course, or I wouldn't be here in the first place ;-)
plase do quote the period! At least the century.

Thanks!

Nicole

=====
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Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:45:12 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> wrote: > On 8 May 2002 at
22:26, N Kipar wrote:
> 
> > > Spectacles
> > 
> > Which dat again, it depends and their shape and function of course. The
> modern
> > glorious idea of spectacles with sides doesn't come in before the 1720s.
> 
> Huh? I thought we'd just found a portrait showing 
> specs with sides in around 1600, and were awaiting 
> comments from our Spectacle Experts?

Mike summed it up very nicely and I replied to his mail with a name of someone
who makes those, in paintings it often appears as if it were the modern type of
side piece but it isn't, it's a loop or other means of fixing the frame so that
it doesn't fall off the nose when same nose is not shaped according to
spec-upholdability.
But by all means, do prove me wrong and show me an extant spactacle with
modern-type hinged side pieces! I'd be delighted to be proven wrong, it would
make the lives of many easier.

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:53:10 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote: >  > > other non-clothing issues:
> > women who own shops
> 
> aha! now that is interesting, have just been to a conference this saturday at
> christ church uni, and many of the speakers dealt with that. under certain
> circumstances, yes. (talking about london here) and they went back to the 14th
> century.
> 

Nicole

Which conference was this?  Do you have any more details?  If I'd known in advance I'd have gone
as this sounds seriously interesting.  I presume that this is Christ Church on the south coast?

Rachel

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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:04:30 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 

> Which conference was this?  Do you have any more details?  If I'd known in
> advance I'd have gone
> as this sounds seriously interesting.  I presume that this is Christ Church
> on the south coast?

Oh yes, Christ Church as in Canterbury Christ Church Univesity College, that's
where I sit at the mo typing along, I work here. It was a conference organised
by the Kent Archaeological Society in conjunction with the History department
of Christ Church, I do my PhD at the latter. It was on Anglo-Saxon and Medieval
women, superb speakers!

BTW, anyone else going to the MEDAT conference on dyeing?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:18:37 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote: >  --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> It was a conference organised
> by the Kent Archaeological Society in conjunction with the History department
> of Christ Church, I do my PhD at the latter. It was on Anglo-Saxon and Medieval
> women, superb speakers!

I don't suppose that they produced any notes, that could be purchased?

> 
> BTW, anyone else going to the MEDAT conference on dyeing?
> 

Do you have details of this?  I know a number of people who would be very interested in attending
this.

Thanks

Rachel

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] MEDAT Dyeing conference
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:36:42 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >  

> I don't suppose that they produced any notes, that could be purchased?

No, I'm sorry they didn't.

> > BTW, anyone else going to the MEDAT conference on dyeing?
> > 
> 
> Do you have details of this?  I know a number of people who would be very
> interested in attending
> this.

Here you are:

Saturday 13th July (papers):
10-10:30 registration
-The chemistry of medieval dyeing (dr paul wyeth, university of
southampton)
coffee
-dye studies on pre 17th century european textiles: methodology
and conclusion
(dr jan wouters, royal insitute for cultural heritage brussels)
- the medieval woad vat explained (professor philip john, university of
reading)
discussion
lunch
- aristotle and the vat: the medieval science of dyeing (dr spike bucklow, the
hamilton kerr institute university of cambridge)
- true purple & its imitations in late antiquity and the middle ages (hero
granger-taylor)
discussion
tea
- the trade of dyestuffs & their application in 14th and 15th century venice
(dr luca mola, university of warwick)
- madder red & the ottomans (dr robert chenciner, st anthony's college,
univesity of oxford)
discussion
18-19:00 reception for everyone in te courtauld galleries

sunday 14th july 2002 (demonstrations)
10-10:30 registration and coffee
- professor philip john, school of plant sciences: introduction
demonstrations
lunch
- sally ann chandler: presentation: the wear and tear of medieval dyestuffs as
demonstrated in replica garments.
demonstration
tea
discussion
17-18:00 reception, gardens of the school of plant siences.
approximately seven demonstrations will show dyeing with dyestuffs and mordants
in use from c 4th century AD to c 1600.

murex - inge boesken kanold (OKHRA Conservatoire Roussillon)
woad - john edmonds (chiltern open air museum & author of 'the medieval woad
vat')
kermes - dr dominique cardon (centre national de la recheche scientifique)
madder, ferrous sulphate & oak gall - jenny dean (author of 'the craft of
natural dyeing')
saffron - patience beaumont (essex guild of weavers)
dyers' greenwood, golden rod, weld - penny walsh (london guild of weavers)
overdyeing - tracey kendal (royal college of art)

tickets for both days: 
for MEDATS members £60
non-members £70
concessions: £40

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 10:31:36 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


 
> 
> Oh, good, because the fabric I just dyed for my new Elizabethan
> middle class gown came out, not the  deep purplish blue I was
> trying for, but a rather brisk violet.  It's outside drying on the
> lawn, and the contrast is so pretty I've decided to give it a grass
> green forepart and sleeves. 

Sounds lovely!

> What can I say, I'm just not a subtle person.

Yayayayay!


Teddy
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 10:42:37 BST
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> > .. It's outside drying on the
> > lawn, and the contrast is so pretty I've decided to give it a grass
> > green forepart and sleeves. 

Of course, if the grass is wet, you may not have a choice any more :(

(It does sound lovely!)




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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 11:03:16 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Oooohhh! I *love* flying buttresses! Seriously!
> Buttressing of architecture is a fascinating subject.

Well, I didn't miss my train to work because I found the subject 
*boring*....<g>

Teddy
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 06:53:04 -0600
Status: RO

Hey, Teddy....speaking on non-subtle outfits, I saw one done in shades
of orange on a very nice lady at an event this past weekend.  Thought of
you and Lainie (another orange-lover on another list).  The wearer
created it using different sari silks, and it seems she was also married
in the same dress.....<g>
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> 
> 
> >
> > Oh, good, because the fabric I just dyed for my new Elizabethan
> > middle class gown came out, not the  deep purplish blue I was
> > trying for, but a rather brisk violet.  It's outside drying on the
> > lawn, and the contrast is so pretty I've decided to give it a grass
> > green forepart and sleeves.
> 
> Sounds lovely!
> 
> > What can I say, I'm just not a subtle person.
> 
> Yayayayay!
> 
> Teddy
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 06:55:19 -0600
Status: RO

My two favorites along this line are:
Pink isn't period (meaning, wasn't used at all in the middle ages and
renaissance in Europe), and
Medieval people didn't line their clothing.
--Sue

Truly Biggs wrote:
> 
> I once thought of writing a paper about all of the things that I have been
> told "aren't period"
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Subject: [h-cost] fabrics in Amsterdam
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:10:09 -0500
Status: RO

My friend is going to Amsterdam this weekend. She will be staying for 2
days, near the Anne Frank house, then traveling south in a rental car.

Are there any fabric places she shouldn't miss? We know about Den Haan &
Waagemakers.

Thanks for the help.

Kim

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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 07:14:07 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I find this list of amusements...very amusing! Sorry I HAD to do
that...anyway...

I would add all the myths about corsets to that list. Everything from
"working women didn't wear them" to "women had their lower ribs
removed."

mirv


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Got more Web addys than orifices:
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 07:22:37 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Marie De France: 12th century poetess/court performer  - Thought to be a
menber of Henry Fitz Empress and Eleanor of Aquitaine's court.

I'm sorry. I would have put that but I wasn't sure how much info a costume
list wants about a musician. (not that we can't have other interests :)

I was hoping that anyone interested would take the website hint - but here
are some good links below:

http://150.252.8.92/www/iawm/pages/mdfrance.html

http://www.people.vcu.edu/~cmarecha/

http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/09667a.htm

Truly


--- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote:
>  --- Truly Biggs <trulinor@yahoo.com> wrote: > > 
> 
> > Hmmmm....Marie de France is a fine example of precisely the sort of
> > musician/composer/performer that the person who told me that did not
> know
> > about.
> 
> Ah, yes, nice name, but WHEN was she active? Please, please a plea here,
> when
> people talk about things being 'period' and even in the SCA time frame
> (though
> this is not an SCA list of course, or I wouldn't be here in the first
> place ;-)
> plase do quote the period! At least the century.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May  9 11:49:51 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] bard?
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:32:42 -0700 (PDT)
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Can someone who's better versed in general medieval history point
me to the first use of the word "bard"?  I know troubadour, jongleur,
ollamh, and duear...but none of those encompass the modern construction
that most people mean when they say "bard."  I have a feeling that my 
knowledge of the real irish, french and norse/icelandic customs is probably
a stumbling block to my understanding this "bard" stuff...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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       Women muscians?  Check out "The Women Troubadours" by Meg Bogin.  
Published by WW.Norton & Company, NY & London ISBN 0-399-00965-3

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Women muscians? &nbsp;Check out "The Women Troubadours" by Meg Bogin. &nbsp;Published by WW.Norton &amp; Company, NY &amp; London ISBN 0-399-00965-3
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bard?
From: Agnes MacGawne <countess11@mac.com>
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 10:03:44 -0700
Status: RO

Here is the citation from the Oxford English Dictionary - you won't see any
italics because of the email format but it may be informative to you anyhow.
Enjoy!
----

BARD  5-; also 6-7 (Sc.) baird, 6 barth, 6-7 bardh. [a. Gael. and Ir.
bàrd:OCelt. *bardo-s poet-singer, minstrel (whence Gr. , L. bardus, as alien
words, Œbardus Gallice cantor appellatur, qui virorum fortium laudes canit,¹
Festus). In Eng. originally only an alien word from the mod. Celtic
vernaculars, i.e. in Scotland bard, baird from Gaelic, in England barth,
bardh from Welsh bardd, and bard from Irish, employed as in contemporary
Celtic usage; first naturalized in Scotland, and then by no means
appreciative in its use (see sense 2); afterwards, under the influence of
the, bardus of the classical writers, adopted in Eng. literature as a
historical and poetic term.] 

    1. An ancient Celtic order of minstrel-poets, whose primary function
appears to have been to compose and sing (usually to the harp) verses
celebrating the achievements of chiefs and warriors, and who committed to
verse historical and traditional facts, religious precepts, laws,
genealogies, etc. Still the word for Œpoet¹ in modern Celtic languages; and
in Welsh spec. A poet or versifier who has been recognized at the
Eisteddfod. 
 
  c1450 HOLLAND Houlate, Sa come the Ruke with a rerd, and a rane roch, A
bard out of Irland, with Banachadee! 1538 LELAND ltin. V. 15 Peraventure
Lleuys Morganne the Barth was deceivid in this. 1584 D. POWEL Lloyd's
Cambria 15 This word Bardh signified such as had knowledge of things to
come. 1594 SHAKES. Rich. III, IV. ii. 109 A bard of Ireland told me once, I
should not live long after I saw Richmond. 1596 SPENSER St. Irel. (J.),
There is amongst the Irish a kind of people called bards, which are to them
instead of poets: whose profession is to set forth the praises or dispraises
of men in their poems or rhime. 1610 HOLLAND Camden's Brit. I. 421 The
funerall song or Dump of a most ancient British Bard. [Note, Poet]. 1615
Val. Welshm. (1663) Aivb, Call with your silver tones, that reverend Bardh.
1627 MAY Lucan I. (R.) You bards securely sung your elegyes [fudistis
carmina Bardi]. 1780 BURKE Sp. Econ. Ref. Wks. III. 261 The invasion of King
Edward and the massacre of the bards. 1879 MACLEAR Celts ii. 18 The Druidic
order included..the Bards or ŒGlee-men.¹
 

    2. In early Lowland Scotch used for: A strolling musician or minstrel
(into which the Celtic bard had degenerated, and against whom many laws were
enacted); in 16th c. a term of contempt, but idealized by Scott by
association with 4.
 
  1449 Act 6 Jas. II (1597) §22 Gif there be onie that makis them fuilis and
are bairdes, or vthers sic like rinnares about. 1457 Ibid. §80 Sornares,
bairdes, maister-full beggers, or feiniet fuiles. ?a1500 Kenneth's Stat. in
Sir J. Balfour Patricks 680 All vagabundis, fulis, bardis, scudlaris, and
siclike idill pepill, sall be brint on the cheek. c1505 DUNBAR Flyting 49
Irsche brybour baird, wyle beggar with thy brattis! 1609 SKENE Rej. Mag. 135
Feinzied fooles, bairdes, rynners about..after sundrie punishments, may be
hanged. 1805 SCOTT Last Minstr. Introd., The last of all the bards was he
Who sung of Border chivalry.
 

    3. Applied to the early versifying minstrels or poets of other nations,
before the use of writing, as the Old English gleeman, Scandinavian scald,
etc. 
 
  1623 COCKERAM, Bardes, ancient Poets. 1763 J. BROWN Poetry & Mus. iv. 41
After a certain Period of Civilization, the complex Character of Legislator
and Bard would separate. 1775 T. WARTON Eng. Poetry I. Diss. i. 34 Various
Islandic odes..which were sung by the Scandinavian bards. 1855 MILMAN Lat.
Chr. II. IV. iv. 283 A Teutonic literature has begun; the German bards have
become Christian poets.
 

    4. poet. A lyric or epic poet, a Œsinger¹; a poet generally. [Chiefly
after Lucan; quot. 1627 in 1.]
 
  [1606 SHAKES. Ant. & Cl. III. ii. 16 Hoo, Hearts, Tongues, Figure,
Scribes, Bards, Poets, cannot Thinke speake, cast write sing, number: hoo,
His loue to Anthony.] 1667 MILTON P.L. VII. 34 That wild rout that tore the
Thracian bard In Rhodopè. 1704 POPE Messiah 37 The Saviour comes, by ancient
bards foretold. 1769 GARRICK Song Wks. 1785 II. 427 For the bard of all
bards was a Warwickshire Bard. 1809 BYRON (title) English Bards and Scotch
Reviewers. 1834 CUNNINGHAM Burns (1850) 154/2 The character of the Ayrshire
bard. 1881 (title) The Bard of Avon Birthday Text-book compiled from
Shakespeare's Plays and Poems.
 

    5. Comb., as bard-craft; bard-like adj.
 
  1763 J. BROWN Poetry & Mus. ix. 168 The first great Bard-like Character we
meet with [in China] is Confucius. 1808 SCOTT Marm. Introd. 213 The keener
rush of blood That throbs through bard in bard-like mood. 1820 T. MITCHELL
Aristoph. I. 205 Ye verse-smiths and bard-mechanicians. 1840 BROWNING
Sordello II, 312 Forswearing bard-craft.


> From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:32:42 -0700 (PDT)
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] bard?
> 
> 
> Can someone who's better versed in general medieval history point
> me to the first use of the word "bard"?  I know troubadour, jongleur,
> ollamh, and duear...but none of those encompass the modern construction
> that most people mean when they say "bard."  I have a feeling that my
> knowledge of the real irish, french and norse/icelandic customs is probably
> a stumbling block to my understanding this "bard" stuff...
> 
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com          KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:34:56 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Nicole wrote:

> --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 

>  > Carriages
> 
> >yeah, right, and one walks beside the horse. ;-)
> 
> Davenport's costume book has a German picture of one
of these dated 
1491 
> (page 371, #987).

That was a joke, dear, joke as in hahaha, we all
laugh? :-)

> The Metropolitan Museum has one, I forget the date,
but from some 
time in 
> the 1400's, as I recall.  Not your 'Western Saddle',
but definitely 
with a 
> pommel.

Ah, taht's interesting, do you know  a piccie anywhere
of that one?



I couldn't find this one on their website, but I have
a couple of books with line drawings, mostly of
earlier saddles. If you want me to scan some in & send
them to you, feel free to email me off list. That way,
we don't tie up the list with a kind of off-topic
subject. :) 
Also, Ann Hyland's book _The Medieval Warhorse: From
Byzantium to the Crusades_ has a very good overview of
saddlery, with a discussion (no pics, unfortunately)
of constructed saddles (as opposed to saddlecloths
only) dating from the 5th century BCE. Stirrups on the
other hand, were much later...
Finally something I can contribute about, albiet not
about costuming for humans!
:)
Tracy
sionnach1025@yahoo.com

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       I don't understand the questioning of buttons.  Fabric buttons are 
found on extant garment fragments listed in the Textiles and Clothing book 
from the Museum of London.  There are pictures from the late fourteenth 
century showing both buttons and buttonholes, so they were used for closing 
garments.  They even show the methods by which some of the buttons and 
buttonholes were made.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I don't understand the questioning of buttons. &nbsp;Fabric buttons are found on extant garment fragments listed in the Textiles and Clothing book from the Museum of London. &nbsp;There are pictures from the late fourteenth century showing both buttons and buttonholes, so they were used for closing garments. &nbsp;They even show the methods by which some of the buttons and buttonholes were made. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] beading on Worth 1890's gowns
In-Reply-To: <000a01c1f6d9$9c8ce4e0$55c98693@creighton.edu> "from Cynthia Abel
 at May 8, 2002 04:44:54 pm"
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:04:37 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Oh I think that's the gown --
http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/images/worth.jpg

that kendra was working on.  You should give her a holler -
her website is at 
http://www.tweedlebop.com/kendra/costume/projects.html

and she's here on the list sometimes :)

.heather.


> I have a doll-sized pattern of a copy of a circa 1894 Worth ball gown as
> pictured in Harper's Bazaar.  The original calls for ciel blue silk and
> black fur trim. I have had some beautiful black bunny fur stashed and
> finally found some sky-blue silk that is both opaque, but thin, crisp and
> smooth. The description of the beading of the gown does not give the
> color(s) of the beads. The beading design is of iris flowers on long leafed
> stalks and the design is outline only, not a filled-in set of motifs.  I've
> looked in my books for any color pictures of circa 1890's Worth ball gowns
> that would inform me for certain whether Worth beading of this type was done
> in colors, or was white or clear.  I was thinking of doing the beading with
> size 014 glass beads in pale clear green and the flowers in clear white and
> clear mauve or purple.  But is a single color like white, clear or even a
> clear blue to match the gown color more authentic?  I live no where near a
> museum with a collection or even a single Worth gown.  Many thanks
> 
> Cindy Abel
> 
> 
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 16:33:04 +0000
Status: RO

Well, I don't know if bard and troubadour mean the same thing to you, but 
I'm reading a book right now talking about female singers and performers in 
south of France or Spain (gosh I have to check my sources) around 1100, 
right before the spanish reconquistada. (or whatever they call it)


>From: N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
>Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:37:57 +0100 (BST)
>
>  --- Truly Biggs <trulinor@yahoo.com> wrote: > >
>
> > Hmmmm....Marie de France is a fine example of precisely the sort of
> > musician/composer/performer that the person who told me that did not 
>know
> > about.
>
>Ah, yes, nice name, but WHEN was she active? Please, please a plea here, 
>when
>people talk about things being 'period' and even in the SCA time frame 
>(though
>this is not an SCA list of course, or I wouldn't be here in the first place 
>;-)
>plase do quote the period! At least the century.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
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Kayta, that does sound like a lot of us I suspect.  My glasses need to be 
replaced, but I keep spending the money on fabrics and dolls and teddy bears, 
and my latest effort - fencing.  It is a matter of priority and we have ours 
set just fine.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Kayta, that does sound like a lot of us I suspect. &nbsp;My glasses need to be replaced, but I keep spending the money on fabrics and dolls and teddy bears, and my latest effort - fencing. &nbsp;It is a matter of priority and we have ours set just fine.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: level of SCA costuming, some examples
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 2002 11:49:08 pm"
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:21:23 -0700 (PDT)
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Maybe Elizabeth should add "lets play nicely" to the auto-added 
footer at the end of every message.  

.heather.


> Marc Carlson wrote:
>  
> > I must have fallen asleep .. isn't this a place where any extended
> > discussion of the SCA was pretty much frowned on?  Some do a good job with
> > their clothes, some don't.  That pretty much covers it.  Can we get past
> > this?
> 
> Eliz has already called a halt to it, but it takes awhile to die because
> people post before reading all the messages -- therefore posting before
> they've seen her "let's play nicely" message.
> 
> --Charlene
> 
> -- 
> You can fool too many people too much of the time.  -- James Thurber
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 10:55:01 -0700
Status: RO


> > The Metropolitan Museum has one, I forget the date, but from some time in
> > the 1400's, as I recall.  Not your 'Western Saddle', but definitely with a
> > pommel.
>
>Ah, taht's interesting, do you know  a piccie anywhere of that one?

I took some when I was there, 18 years ago, but, of course, now I can't 
find them.  It was a wood frame, covered with red velvet.  I saw another 
one, much smaller, on a mounted knight toy.  It was in a doll and toy book, 
which I can't find at this time either (drives me crazy - I just saw it 
somewhere...)

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 10:55:11 -0700
Status: RO


>in paintings it often appears as if it were the modern type of
>side piece but it isn't, it's a loop or other means of fixing the frame so 
>that
>it doesn't fall off the nose when same nose is not shaped according to
>spec-upholdability.

It appears that someone could take a spare pair, remove the temple-pieces, 
and add loops thru the holes left by their hinges.  They'd look more like 
the loop-side things we're all finding.


Kayta
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 10:55:21 -0700
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>Hey, Teddy....speaking on non-subtle outfits, I saw one done in shades
>of orange on a very nice lady at an event this past weekend.  Thought of
>you and Lainie (another orange-lover on another list).

Wingfield Digby's book on Elizabethan embroidery has about 4 colour plates, 
but one is of a bright orange cushion from Hardwicke Hall.  Not a colour I 
like admitting is period.


Kayta
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 10:55:28 -0700
Status: RO


>      Women muscians?  Check out "The Women Troubadours" by Meg 
> Bogin.  Published by WW.Norton & Company, NY & London ISBN 0-399-00965-3

Jost Amman shows women singers, in a several-person group, in a wood cut in 
Dover's 'Book of Trades'.  Not the same as a Medieval bard.

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 19:08:00 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,

Agnes provided the citation from the OED in response to Lee's request;
the bottom line being the first appearance of the term bard is in a
mid-fifteenth century Scottish text. If  anyone wants to know more on
this,  Robin Hamilton, a scottish poet of my acquaintance , has kindly
offered:
"bibliographical details of the Asloan or Maitland MS versions of
Holland's _The Book of the Howlat_, or [his very own]
lightly edited edition.  ([he]  can't at the moment recollect whether
[he] used
Asloan or Maitland as the copy-text, but as they're virtually
identical, it
doesn't make that much difference.)"

best wishes
Stevie



----- Original Message -----
From: "Agnes MacGawne" <countess11@mac.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bard?


Here is the citation from the Oxford English Dictionary - you won't
see any
italics because of the email format but it may be informative to you
anyhow.
Enjoy!
----

BARD 5-; also 6-7 (Sc.) baird, 6 barth, 6-7 bardh. [a. Gael. and Ir.
bàrd:OCelt. *bardo-s poet-singer, minstrel (whence Gr. , L. bardus, as
alien
words, Obardus Gallice cantor appellatur, qui virorum fortium laudes
canit,¹
Festus). In Eng. originally only an alien word from the mod. Celtic
vernaculars, i.e. in Scotland bard, baird from Gaelic, in England
barth,
bardh from Welsh bardd, and bard from Irish, employed as in
contemporary
Celtic usage; first naturalized in Scotland, and then by no means
appreciative in its use (see sense 2); afterwards, under the influence
of
the, bardus of the classical writers, adopted in Eng. literature as a
historical and poetic term.]

1. An ancient Celtic order of minstrel-poets, whose primary function
appears to have been to compose and sing (usually to the harp) verses
celebrating the achievements of chiefs and warriors, and who committed
to
verse historical and traditional facts, religious precepts, laws,
genealogies, etc. Still the word for Opoet¹ in modern Celtic
languages; and
in Welsh spec. A poet or versifier who has been recognized at the
Eisteddfod.

c1450 HOLLAND Houlate, Sa come the Ruke with a rerd, and a rane roch,
A
bard out of Irland, with Banachadee! 1538 LELAND ltin. V. 15
Peraventure
Lleuys Morganne the Barth was deceivid in this. 1584 D. POWEL Lloyd's
Cambria 15 This word Bardh signified such as had knowledge of things
to
come. 1594 SHAKES. Rich. III, IV. ii. 109 A bard of Ireland told me
once, I
should not live long after I saw Richmond. 1596 SPENSER St. Irel.
(J.),
There is amongst the Irish a kind of people called bards, which are to
them
instead of poets: whose profession is to set forth the praises or
dispraises
of men in their poems or rhime. 1610 HOLLAND Camden's Brit. I. 421 The
funerall song or Dump of a most ancient British Bard. [Note, Poet].
1615
Val. Welshm. (1663) Aivb, Call with your silver tones, that reverend
Bardh.
1627 MAY Lucan I. (R.) You bards securely sung your elegyes [fudistis
carmina Bardi]. 1780 BURKE Sp. Econ. Ref. Wks. III. 261 The invasion
of King
Edward and the massacre of the bards. 1879 MACLEAR Celts ii. 18 The
Druidic
order included..the Bards or OGlee-men.¹


2. In early Lowland Scotch used for: A strolling musician or minstrel
(into which the Celtic bard had degenerated, and against whom many
laws were
enacted); in 16th c. a term of contempt, but idealized by Scott by
association with 4.

1449 Act 6 Jas. II (1597) §22 Gif there be onie that makis them fuilis
and
are bairdes, or vthers sic like rinnares about. 1457 Ibid. §80
Sornares,
bairdes, maister-full beggers, or feiniet fuiles. ?a1500 Kenneth's
Stat. in
Sir J. Balfour Patricks 680 All vagabundis, fulis, bardis, scudlaris,
and
siclike idill pepill, sall be brint on the cheek. c1505 DUNBAR Flyting
49
Irsche brybour baird, wyle beggar with thy brattis! 1609 SKENE Rej.
Mag. 135
Feinzied fooles, bairdes, rynners about..after sundrie punishments,
may be
hanged. 1805 SCOTT Last Minstr. Introd., The last of all the bards was
he
Who sung of Border chivalry.


3. Applied to the early versifying minstrels or poets of other
nations,
before the use of writing, as the Old English gleeman, Scandinavian
scald,
etc.

1623 COCKERAM, Bardes, ancient Poets. 1763 J. BROWN Poetry & Mus. iv.
41
After a certain Period of Civilization, the complex Character of
Legislator
and Bard would separate. 1775 T. WARTON Eng. Poetry I. Diss. i. 34
Various
Islandic odes..which were sung by the Scandinavian bards. 1855 MILMAN
Lat.
Chr. II. IV. iv. 283 A Teutonic literature has begun; the German bards
have
become Christian poets.


4. poet. A lyric or epic poet, a Osinger¹; a poet generally. [Chiefly
after Lucan; quot. 1627 in 1.]

[1606 SHAKES. Ant. & Cl. III. ii. 16 Hoo, Hearts, Tongues, Figure,
Scribes, Bards, Poets, cannot Thinke speake, cast write sing, number:
hoo,
His loue to Anthony.] 1667 MILTON P.L. VII. 34 That wild rout that
tore the
Thracian bard In Rhodopè. 1704 POPE Messiah 37 The Saviour comes, by
ancient
bards foretold. 1769 GARRICK Song Wks. 1785 II. 427 For the bard of
all
bards was a Warwickshire Bard. 1809 BYRON (title) English Bards and
Scotch
Reviewers. 1834 CUNNINGHAM Burns (1850) 154/2 The character of the
Ayrshire
bard. 1881 (title) The Bard of Avon Birthday Text-book compiled from
Shakespeare's Plays and Poems.


5. Comb., as bard-craft; bard-like adj.

1763 J. BROWN Poetry & Mus. ix. 168 The first great Bard-like
Character we
meet with [in China] is Confucius. 1808 SCOTT Marm. Introd. 213 The
keener
rush of blood That throbs through bard in bard-like mood. 1820 T.
MITCHELL
Aristoph. I. 205 Ye verse-smiths and bard-mechanicians. 1840 BROWNING
Sordello II, 312 Forswearing bard-craft.


> From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:32:42 -0700 (PDT)
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] bard?
>
>
> Can someone who's better versed in general medieval history point
> me to the first use of the word "bard"?  I know troubadour,
jongleur,
> ollamh, and duear...but none of those encompass the modern
construction
> that most people mean when they say "bard."  I have a feeling that
my
> knowledge of the real irish, french and norse/icelandic customs is
probably
> a stumbling block to my understanding this "bard" stuff...
>
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com          KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All
Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 20:52:35 +0200
Status: RO



It's lovely, and of course I saved the pictures staright away but...
OHMIGOD
that guy is putting the coat on!!!! It's a silk coat, the silk is
already
shattered in places, dry rot has set in and he's putting it on and
flexing
and
bending his arms and stuff. Makes my lil heart bleed, couldn't he put it

carefully just onto a stand...

Anyway, I think that Bjarne's embroidery is BETTER! :-)

Nicole

Hi Duchesse !
Welcome back again. We have missed you very much. And thanks for those
lovely words, blush........
I have finished the right back vent embroidery, so now i need to do one
left vent, 2 cuffs and the left side of the waistcoat and Voila,
finished after 3 years.

Lovely to have you back where you belong, we missed your postings a
lot!!!

Bjarne


--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] more specs
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 11:39:49 -0700
Status: RO


>Kayta, that does sound like a lot of us I suspect.  My glasses need to be 
>replaced, but I keep spending the money on fabrics and dolls and teddy 
>bears, and my latest effort - fencing.  It is a matter of priority and we 
>have ours set just fine.

Not so much that I spend on one thing rather than another.  It's just that 
I can make costumes our of fabric I already have, but the glasses represent 
a substantial investment all at once.  Maybe if I had a real job...

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 14:48:56 -0400
Status: RO

I have a friend looking for orange wool for me!

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements


> Hey, Teddy....speaking on non-subtle outfits, I saw one done in shades
> of orange on a very nice lady at an event this past weekend.  Thought of
> you and Lainie (another orange-lover on another list).  The wearer
> created it using different sari silks, and it seems she was also married
> in the same dress.....<g>
> --sue
> 
> Teddy wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > >
> > > Oh, good, because the fabric I just dyed for my new Elizabethan
> > > middle class gown came out, not the  deep purplish blue I was
> > > trying for, but a rather brisk violet.  It's outside drying on the
> > > lawn, and the contrast is so pretty I've decided to give it a grass
> > > green forepart and sleeves.
> > 
> > Sounds lovely!
> > 
> > > What can I say, I'm just not a subtle person.
> > 
> > Yayayayay!
> > 
> > Teddy
> _______________________________________________
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In a message dated 5/9/02 3:04:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:


> I can make costumes our of fabric I already have, but the glasses represent 
> a substantial investment all at once.  

       Yep, I have that lovely stash too.  And bifocals are just way too 
expensive.  When I planned to retire, I thought I was in good shape, but the 
insurance that was supposed to provide me with a monthly income didn't.  The 
agent lied!  My social security should have been higher, but I was dumb 
enough to have low paying jobs the last six years of working.  And the 
pension isn't what I was hoping for either.  So I really should get a part 
time job, but I truly hate the idea of punching a clock (even figuratively) 
ever again.  Oh well, as long as I have a fabric stash I can amuse myself 
cheaply.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



--part1_4c.b319d76.2a0c281a_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/9/02 3:04:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kayta@frys.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I can make costumes our of fabric I already have, but the glasses represent 
<BR>a substantial investment all at once. &nbsp;Maybe if I had a real job...</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Yep, I have that lovely stash too. &nbsp;And bifocals are just way too expensive. &nbsp;When I planned to retire, I thought I was in good shape, but the insurance that was supposed to provide me with a monthly income didn't. &nbsp;The agent lied! &nbsp;My social security should have been higher, but I was dumb enough to have low paying jobs the last six years of working. &nbsp;And the pension isn't what I was hoping for either. &nbsp;So I really should get a part time job, but I truly hate the idea of punching a clock (even figuratively) ever again. &nbsp;Oh well, as long as I have a fabric stash I can amuse myself cheaply.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_4c.b319d76.2a0c281a_boundary--
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 12:58:05 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


"Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Well, I don't know if bard and troubadour mean the same thing to you, but 
> I'm reading a book right now talking about female singers and performers in 
> south of France or Spain (gosh I have to check my sources) around 1100, 
> right before the spanish reconquistada. (or whatever they call it)

They don't, actually.  And judging from the OED entry that I got, it
looks like the early english scholars didn't distinguish between faile/
(harpists, or bards) and ollamh (ollav, litterally, someone of learning),
and brehon (judges, legal experts).  And that ignores seanachai (shanachie,
storytellers, historians), and singers who put their own spin on the songs
they sing.  The little bits of the oldest styles of irish and scottish
singing that we still have strongly resemble swedish and norweigian styles,
and then some medieval provencal styles.  Not a big suprise, given the 
list of migrations to the area.  

Troubadours wrote songs, but often didn't perform them.  Jongleurs were
the professional musicians and singers.

This is why "bard" as most modern folk use it seems so weird to me.  It
appears to be a product of the english scholars only sort of recognizing
the role of the ollamh in irish society (they were the intelligensia), 
and then concatonating it with what they knew about troubadours and jongleurs.
This seems to be similar to the path that certain welsh tales took on 
their way to becoming the french Arthur romances.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 13:14:34 -0700
Status: RO


> Kayta, that does sound like a lot of us I suspect.  My glasses need to
> be replaced, but I keep spending the money on fabrics and dolls and
> teddy bears, and my latest effort - fencing.  It is a matter of
> priority and we have ours set just fine.

Hey, my problem isn't that I spent the money on other things but I 
keep forgetting to make the doctor's appointment. However, with all 
the discussions we've been having, I finally made the appointment 
(for a week from today). 



Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 20:14:14 +0000
Status: RO

My husband did something remarkably similar - took the lenses out of an old 
pair of his modern glasses, made frames that were appropriate (read: 
period), added chains at the side with beads at the ends for weight, and 
went to his first SCA event wearing them. (His clothing was nowhere close to 
being as wonderful, tho!) Unfortunately, he broke them not too long 
afterwards and hasn't yet repaired them.

He said he wouldn't want to try and do anything like calligraphy or 
illumination in them, but they were certainly good enough for wandering 
around an event. :)

Mary/Katerine

>It appears that someone could take a spare pair, remove the temple-pieces,
>and add loops thru the holes left by their hinges.  They'd look more like
>the loop-side things we're all finding.
>
>
>Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
>/----\   /---\))
>
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 13:31:49 -0700
Status: RO

Margo that's not true, your as subtle as Teddy.

Stephen - Running for the hills.

Margo Anderson wrote:

> but a rather brisk violet.  It's outside drying on the lawn, and the contrast is
> so pretty I've decided to give it a grass green forepart and sleeves.
> 
> What can I say, I'm just not a subtle person.
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
> See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 13:05:24 -0700
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At 01:31 PM 05/09/2002 -0700, Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
>Margo that's not true, your as subtle as Teddy.

>Stephen, in this discussion, you don't have a solid colored leg to stand on!

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 08:04:25 -0700
Status: RO



LalahTT@aol.com wrote:

>       I don't understand the questioning of buttons.  Fabric buttons
> are found on extant garment fragments listed in the Textiles and
> Clothing book from the Museum of London.  There are pictures from the
> late fourteenth century showing both buttons and buttonholes, so they
> were used for closing garments.  They even show the methods by which
> some of the buttons and buttonholes were made.
>

It's one of those very ancient myths that arose in the pre-dawn of
reenactment. I
don't know where it came from, but I can't say I've ever heard it
expressed to my
face, only second-hand.

Claire

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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 08:16:47 -0700
Status: RO



kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

>
>
> As to separate skirts, it's not clear from extant items how they
> were constructed. It is certainly an educated guess (based on the
> trunkhose example I used previously) that they were pleated (by
> whatever means) onto a waistband.
>

There is, in one of Janet Arnold's books I think, a quotation from one of
those 17th
century tailor's dictionary (similar, (or maybe the same, my memory isn't
that good))
to a quote in The Cut of Women's Clothes) that describes a ribbon that sewn
over
the top of the pleats of a petticoat to keep them together. The description
makes it
sound more like a binding than a waistband per se, and it wasn't called a
waistband
but I guess it served the same function....

Claire
(the vague...)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] more specs
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 15:50:28 -0700
Status: RO


>  And bifocals are just way too expensive.

What I need are trifocals, and am making do with bifocals.  Modern glasses 
frames aren't big enough to put trifocals in, so I'm hitting thrift stores 
looking for frames - assuming I can get a cheap optometrist to use old 
frames (some won't).


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 19:02:45 -0400
Status: RO

Ok... new question for those who do other than noblewear
in the late 1400s, to mid 1500s.

I know that by Elizabethian times craftsmen (and
craftswomen) and apprentices might have chosen a flat cap
for daily wear.... or rather I've seen such claimed quite
a few places.

Does anyone know when the flat cap began being worn by
craftsmen/women in England?

Or does anyone have any suggestions other than biggins or
other "coif" type hat for a craftswoman during Henry
VIII's time (1530s for now...)?


Run out of places I can look to figure it out reliably,
not to mention I've gone off on *way* too many tangents
both in book and web form while looking in the last couple
of weeks.....


TIA,
-Elisabeth

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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 19:01:18 -0400
Status: RO

I had seen some at Jomar's in Philadelphia, last fall.

> I have a friend looking for orange wool for me!
> > Hey, Teddy....speaking on non-subtle outfits, I saw one done in shades
> > of orange on a very nice lady at an event this past weekend.  Thought of
> > you and Lainie (another orange-lover on another list).  The wearer
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bard?
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 14:19:38 -0700
Status: RO

>  > From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
>>  Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>>  Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:32:42 -0700 (PDT)
>>  To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>>  Subject: [h-cost] bard?
>>
>>
>>  Can someone who's better versed in general medieval history point
>>  me to the first use of the word "bard"?  I know troubadour, jongleur,
>>  ollamh, and duear...but none of those encompass the modern construction
>>  that most people mean when they say "bard."  I have a feeling that my
>>  knowledge of the real irish, french and norse/icelandic customs is probably
>  > a stumbling block to my understanding this "bard" stuff...

The problem is that the word has significantly different meanings 
depending on cultural context and era.  Things are simpler if you're 
talking only about the use of "bard" as an English word, in English 
-- in which case, the OED entry covers the matter fairly well.  But 
people will also use "bard" when talking about the various forms of 
the word that appear in a variety of Celtic-speaking cultures at a 
variety of time-periods -- which then involves a number of 
conflicting and contradictory meanings.

If you're expanding to mean "any cognate of the word 'bard' in any 
language", then the earliest written occurrence would be references 
by classical Greek writers to the social class among the continental 
Celts known as "bardoi" (a Greek plural of a borrowed Celtic word).

When a modern person, speaking English, uses the word "bard" they may mean:

(a) any of the English meanings as set out in the OED

(b) the specific meaning of the related word in a specific 
Celtic-speaking culture at a specific time-period ... which may or 
may not be indicated by context

(c) the relatively generic and non-culture-specific meaning assigned 
to the word in medievaloid role-playing games and fantasy literature

Even if considering _only_ historic uses of the various 
language-specific forms of the word, you end up with a variety of 
highly specific and entirely non-corresponding meanings.  What you 
end up with is one of those words like "feudalism" or "Celtic" where 
the only way to clearly understand what the speaker intends is to get 
them to explain what they mean _without_ using the word in question.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 20:51:33 -0400
Status: RO

I mis spoke. She had seen some. If it's still there, she is going to get it
for me. All I have to do in exchange is use her silk to make her some
chemises. Oh, the pain...the agony...

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowena" <sleepyunicorn@citlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements


> I had seen some at Jomar's in Philadelphia, last fall.
>
> > I have a friend looking for orange wool for me!
> > > Hey, Teddy....speaking on non-subtle outfits, I saw one done in shades
> > > of orange on a very nice lady at an event this past weekend.  Thought
of
> > > you and Lainie (another orange-lover on another list).  The wearer
> >
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:55:22 +1200
Status: RO


> I had seen some at Jomar's in Philadelphia, last fall.
>
> > I have a friend looking for orange wool for me!

And I have wide tangerine orange wool stored under my bed:). I keep changing
my mind as to what I want to do with it. It would make wonderful garb, but I
want to wear it fairly often as it is so striking.

I'm thinking a coat pattern in Changing Trends of Fashion might be altered
to be flamboyant enough for my wool.

Or I could mimic my black 1970s 3/4 circle skirted frogged, circular yoked
coat...

Imagine the tastiest, juiciest orange mandarin... that's what my wool looks
like it would taste like.


michaela
ps, there might be some more left at $US2/m but shipping might be a pain.


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 18:13:26 -0700
Status: RO


>I have a friend looking for orange wool for me!

I am told that in heraldry, orange is called 'tawny' in blazons, and it's 
one of the regular colours.  This occurs after the period SCA heraldry 
rules come from, but still within the greater SCA period(s).

Teddy - can you put all your retainers in orange livery?

Kayta
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 21:16:32 -0400
Status: RO

She got it!  And I think there is enough to make a Tudor gown. Oh, I hope, I
hope, it's a wonderful BRIGHT orange and not a rusty shade. I want
eye-poppingly orange!

Dianne

and yes, shipping might be a bit much. Thanks anyway!
----- Original Message -----
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements


>
> Imagine the tastiest, juiciest orange mandarin... that's what my wool
looks
> like it would taste like.
>
>
> michaela
> ps, there might be some more left at $US2/m but shipping might be a pain.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 20:44:29 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 9 May 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> Teddy - can you put all your retainers in orange livery?

No reason why not. I've seen at least one source citing documents that
showed livery didn't necessarily reflect the heraldry of the household
head, or even heraldic colors at all. It apparently reflected whatever
fabric the householder could get in appropriate price and quantity, and
the colors changed periodically based on availability of suitable cloth.

Now, that's from memory, so I could have screwed something up there. If
anyone feels the pressing need for more specific detail, let me know and
I'll dig up the book, which is somewhere in the basement.

--Robin, known to have been wrong before

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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 22:12:47 -0400
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--=====================_310583753==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


>I have a friend looking for orange wool for me!
>
>Dianne

Yes, I found 3 bolts of it *grin*  in Wal-Mart's Dollar-a-yard bin.  I 
snapped up two bolts.


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_310583753==_.ALT
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<html>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I have a friend looking for orange
wool for me!<br>
<br>
Dianne<br>
<font face="arial"></font></blockquote><br>
Yes, I found 3 bolts of it *grin*&nbsp; in Wal-Mart's Dollar-a-yard
bin.&nbsp; I snapped up two bolts.<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</a><a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">html<br>
</a><font size=4>Gallery:
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_310583753==_.ALT--

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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 18:50:43 +0000
Status: RO

Have you considered graduated lenses?

I love mine--once you get used to working with their focus points,
they're a joy.

				Arlys

On Thu, 09 May 2002 15:50:28 -0700 Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
writes:
> 
> >  And bifocals are just way too expensive.
> 
> What I need are trifocals, and am making do with bifocals.  Modern 
> glasses 
> frames aren't big enough to put trifocals in, so I'm hitting thrift 
> stores 
> looking for frames - assuming I can get a cheap optometrist to use 
> old 
> frames (some won't).
> 
> 
> Kayta
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 22:26:01 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 5/9/02 7:18:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, cley@juno.com 
writes:


> > What I need are trifocals, and am making do with bifocals.  Modern 
> > glasses 
> > frames aren't big enough to put trifocals in, so I'm hitting thrift 
> > stores 
> > looking for frames - assuming I can get a cheap optometrist to use 
> > old 
> 

I have a trifocal.gradiated.  And I just got my lenses and frames less than a 
year ago.  I got mine at Lenscrafters.  And they had quite a few frames that 
would work.

Osmondia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/9/02 7:18:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, cley@juno.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt; What I need are trifocals, and am making do with bifocals.&nbsp; Modern <BR>
&gt; glasses <BR>
&gt; frames aren't big enough to put trifocals in, so I'm hitting thrift <BR>
&gt; stores <BR>
&gt; looking for frames - assuming I can get a cheap optometrist to use <BR>
&gt; old <BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I have a trifocal.gradiated.&nbsp; And I just got my lenses and frames less than a year ago.&nbsp; I got mine at Lenscrafters.&nbsp; And they had quite a few frames that would work.<BR>
<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May  9 22:44:55 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Shinrone question
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 22:32:42 EDT
Status: RO

Hello everyone,

A friend and I were going over the Shinrone gown page at 
reconstructinghistory.com recently.  I know there's people on this list 
who've made Shinrones, is the waist of the dress supposed to fall at the 
wearer's natural waist or lower?  It's not clear from the pictures.  My guess 
is that it's supposed to land between waist and hips, because that would make 
the dress waist a little larger and easier to pull over one's head; but then 
the wouldn't the darts be in the wrong place to be pregnancy adjustments?

Leah
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 10 01:22:02 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Help with hat sources!!
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 23:15:02 -0600
Status: RO

Hi, gang.  I just *know* I saved some old messages about historically
accurate straw hats, but can I find them now??? oh, heck no.....;-(
I seem to recall some discussion about the relatively wide-brimmed straw
hats (kinda like the "coolie hats" you can buy in some import stores),
which had a flatter crown on them than said coolie hats.  These
relatively flat straw hats were used in the Colonial U.S.? (I
think...it's been a long week) and also showed up in a similar style in
16th c. Flemish clothing for middle-class women.....
I very much need a shade hat for summer events, as I've really got to
minimize my sun exposure (I already do the shade and sunscreen thang!
<g>), and am really hoping to find a source--merchant, sutler, etc., who
sells these things.  Or, alternatively, some sources for buying the
straw braid and instructions on how to *make* one of the darned things!
Can anybody help me with this?
Thanks so much,
Sue, hatless in MT (hey, sunshine and *no snow* today--yeah!!!)
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttons
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 07:44:23 +0100
Status: RO

On 10 May 2002 at 8:04, Claire Clarke wrote:

> 
> 
> LalahTT@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >       I don't understand the questioning of buttons.  Fabric buttons
> > are found on extant garment fragments listed in the Textiles and
> > Clothing book from the Museum of London.  There are pictures from the
> > late fourteenth century showing both buttons and buttonholes, so they
> > were used for closing garments.  They even show the methods by which
> > some of the buttons and buttonholes were made.
> >
> 
> It's one of those very ancient myths that arose in the pre-dawn of
> reenactment. I
> don't know where it came from, but I can't say I've ever heard it
> expressed to my
> face, only second-hand.

I've heard it expressed to my face: by Dark Age re-
enactors, for whom it may well be true.

When did buttons with holes *through* them come 
in, BTW? I gather most early ones had a shank on 
the back?


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] more specs
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 23:48:17 -0700
Status: RO


>> > What I need are trifocals, and am making do with bifocals.  Modern
>> > glasses
>> > frames aren't big enough to put trifocals in, so I'm hitting thrift
>> > stores
>> > looking for frames - assuming I can get a cheap optometrist to use
>> > old
>
>
>I have a trifocal.gradiated.  And I just got my lenses and frames less 
>than a year ago.  I got mine at Lenscrafters.  And they had quite a few 
>frames that would work.

I prefer the straight-line demarcation kind, old fashioned, but I'm used to 
them.


Kayta
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:17:03 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Hey, Teddy....speaking on non-subtle outfits, I saw one done in shades
> of orange on a very nice lady at an event this past weekend.  Thought
> of you and Lainie (another orange-lover on another list).  The wearer
> created it using different sari silks, and it seems she was also
> married in the same dress.....<g> --sue

Yay!

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements-3
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 10:22:54 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >Hey, Teddy....speaking on non-subtle outfits, I saw one done in
> >shades of orange on a very nice lady at an event this past weekend. 
> >Thought of you and Lainie (another orange-lover on another list).
> 
> Wingfield Digby's book on Elizabethan embroidery has about 4 colour
> plates, but one is of a bright orange cushion from Hardwicke Hall. 
> Not a colour I like admitting is period.

<scrabbles about on desk, realizes with joy that one of the boks he 
was given when it was being discarded by a library here at work is 
that very book by Digby>

Woo, it *is* a lovely orange


 


Teddy
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> I have a friend looking for orange wool for me!
> 
> Dianne

Yay!  Welcome to the "club"....<G>



Teddy
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 10:33:05 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Margo that's not true, your as subtle as Teddy.
> 
> Stephen - Running for the hills.

OK, Margo, just as soon as I stop laughing (not many have 
accused me of being subtle before!) I'll help you round him 
up!....<GGG>

Teddy
("Subtle, bloody subtle - no obvious weaponry... except for the Orc" 
-  Quote about a Shadow-run costume set peresented by a group 
of us at eh 1992 British National SF convention)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 10:34:15 +0000 (GMT)
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> At 01:31 PM 05/09/2002 -0700, Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
> >Margo that's not true, your as subtle as Teddy.
> 
> >Stephen, in this discussion, you don't have a solid colored leg to
> >stand on!
> 
> Margo

Well that should make running away difficult at least!




Teddy
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 11:05:38 +0000 (GMT)
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> Teddy - can you put all your retainers in orange livery?

Tempting thought.... Hey, Jane, do the memebers of High Council 
count as retainers?



Teddy
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 06:25:27 EDT
Status: RO

Thanks for posting the instructions for Dylon.  This is news to me, so now 
I'm looking through my "bargain fabric" stash for something to experiment 
with...

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: check out this partlet --LINK
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 07:08:08 EDT
Status: RO

This is the only link I have other than the partlet close-up, but I'm sure 
there's more to the portrait...

http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1570_3.shtml

--Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 11:54:52 BST
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :

> > Teddy - can you put all your retainers in orange livery?
> 
> Tempting thought.... Hey, Jane, do the memebers of High Council 
> count as retainers?

No, we're *advisors*. Retainers are your household: you know, the Bedwarmer, the Remembrancer, the Mistress of the Privy Purse, that sort of thing. So, as your Alderman and representative of the People, I would advise you that giving people free clothing, even just a tabard, normally makes you popular with them, and this is a Good Thing. (Don't listen to the Chancellor. He has no taste in clothing.)

(And I'd like to see any of the three retainers mentioned above wearing an orange tabard with their normal kit!)

Of course, you *could* decree that High Council should wear your livery in Court, along with their scarlet mantles (yes, the ones we don't yet possess) and best posh frocks. That puts me in orange, scarlet, blue, grey, day-glo pink and purple. So what other colours were you going to put on the tabard? Something tasteful in green and yellow? Or the badges of our office (mine's a nice black & yellow Bee)?






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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 07:26:39 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/7/02 5:25:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< If you look at wool under the microscope,
 it is covered with small overlapping scales (a bit like those on a fish). On
 finer wools, the scales are smaller and on heavier coarser wools, they are
 bigger, so usually coarse heavy wools cause more allergic reactions than fine
 wools. Modern "cool" wools (very lightweight) have had almost all the scale 
bred
 out, so they should cause almost no allergic reaction. >>

Ok, so if I were to go fabric shopping, how can I tell if something's one of 
these "cool" wools?  I ask, because I use lanolin lotions so I know that's 
not why wool gives me a rash.  I'd be willing to try one of these new wool 
types, maybe around the house so I can take it off if it still itches.

Another question, will these look anything like period wools?

--Gillian
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 07:31:46 EDT
Status: RO

Bonnie writes:

<< where I could buy the colored foam 
 that they use to make a lot of the costumes?  >>
(snippage)
<<p.s. also how to I post a question like this so everyone gets it?>>

Colored foam?  Ok, I'm lost.  What kinds of costumes are we talking about?  
Jo-Ann's carries "Foamie", which is a colored craft foam...

--Gillian
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 06:32:37 -0600
Status: RO

Dunno about the actual designation of "cool" wool, but I managed to
score some very nice brick-red wool (looks like a really good madder
red) with a twill weave from the g-street fabrics website before they
discontinued it <bummer>.  It's relatively light weight, drapes
beautifully, etc.  They had labeled it "tropical weight," which is what
caught my eye, besides the color, of course.  I'm going to use it to
make a 14thc. century fitted gown.
The color's a pretty good match for pre-analine dyes (did I spell that
correctly?), and ISTR a lot of twill weaves in wool in the MoL book on
textiles, so I should be okay for the 14th c.  Don't know about it's
appropriateness for other time periods, though.
--my 2 early-morning pence....
Sue

Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 5/7/02 5:25:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> 
> << If you look at wool under the microscope,
>  it is covered with small overlapping scales (a bit like those on a fish). On
>  finer wools, the scales are smaller and on heavier coarser wools, they are
>  bigger, so usually coarse heavy wools cause more allergic reactions than fine
>  wools. Modern "cool" wools (very lightweight) have had almost all the scale
> bred
>  out, so they should cause almost no allergic reaction. >>
> 
> Ok, so if I were to go fabric shopping, how can I tell if something's one of
> these "cool" wools?  I ask, because I use lanolin lotions so I know that's
> not why wool gives me a rash.  I'd be willing to try one of these new wool
> types, maybe around the house so I can take it off if it still itches.
> 
> Another question, will these look anything like period wools?
> 
> --Gillian
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 08:39:10 EDT
Status: RO

Cass writes:

<<  At the beginning I had a snood attached to the braid but
 it was too heavy and pulled the braid off (I need a comb or something) >>

Modern bridal veils use a haircomb whipstitched to the headband, circlet, bun 
cage, or tiara.  In your case, it'd get stitched to the braid on the 
underside so the braid and your own hair would camouflage it.  Oh, and a 
hairdresser that specializes in weddings told me a great trick to keep it in 
place for fine hair.:

Behind the comb, make a small pincurl and secure with small bobby pins.  The 
pincurl can't fit through the teeth of the comb, so the whole headdress stays 
put even for windy outdoor weddings.

Where did you buy the pomander?  Or did you make it?  I need a goldtone one.

Anyway, I look forward to more pics.  *smile*

--Gillian
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Livery colours (WAS:my list of amusements)
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:11:51 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> > Teddy - can you put all your retainers in orange livery?
> 
> No reason why not. I've seen at least one source citing documents that
> showed livery didn't necessarily reflect the heraldry of the household
> head, or even heraldic colors at all. It apparently reflected whatever
> fabric the householder could get in appropriate price and quantity,
> and the colors changed periodically based on availability of suitable
> cloth.

Thanks Robin - that *might* be uiseful to know as I've been 
wondering if, as King, I should do livery (if I were ever to get around 
to it) forthe Royal Household in Guy's personal heraldic colours 
(yellow and green checky) or in the heraldic colours of the country 
itself  Scarlet with... erm.... well,  I suppose white and yellow or 
silver and gold depending

If I can do it on the basis you suggest I just need to raid the stash 
for orange fabric (like that'd be difficult) or get/find something in 
natural fibres that can be thrown in the machine with orange 
dye....<G>



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cool wools?
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:29:54 +0100
Status: RO

Dunno about fabric, but I bought some so-called "cool wool trousers" from a catalogue which are lovely and not at all scratchy to wear (not that I'm particularly sensitive). I had assumed it simply meant that they were made from a lightweight fabric.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Timeless Textiles
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:00:43 EDT
Status: RO


<< Does anyone on the list know of any other fabric suppliers that carry the 
same brocade fabrics that Timeless Textiles does?  I have a friend in a real 
bind for a particular pattern (burgundy & gold, ak017) that they are out of.  
 >>

Hey, speaking of TT, does Timeless have a new website or something?  I only 
get a site with baby rugs on search, and my old links don't work.

--Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cool wools?
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 01:14:15 +1200
Status: RO

> >  wools. Modern "cool" wools (very lightweight) have had almost all the
scale  bred out, so they should cause almost no allergic reaction. >>

Fist I'd like to reiterate that the scale has nothing to do with allergic
reactions. So if you are allergic, this will make no difference. You could
try angora as this is a different type of animal altogether.
An article about wool allergy:
http://www.allergynursing.com/questions/wool.html
So it seems it could actually be a dust mite allergy (which is really common
actually, though it's actually their faeces not the mites themselves..)

And though I do not agree that animal hair is non allergenic:
http://www.blueskypie.com/nonfictionbycategory/healthmedicine/healthmedbooks
/asthmatriggers.asp
<<Wool clothes and wool rugs
Wool comes from sheep, of course. As you will read in the chapter on pets,
animal hair is not allergenic. It is the dander, saliva, and a protein in
the animal's urine that is allergenic. Thus, if the sheep's dander and
saliva have been washed out before the wool is woven into a carpet, the wool
is not allergenic. So you rarely need to replace a wool rug because most
wool is washed before it is made into a rug. However, if the wool fiber has
not been thoroughly washed and you are one of the rare individuals who is
allergic to sheep dander, you should replace your rug.
Despite what I just said, though, you may have to remove your rugs anyway.
Wool rugs can be home to dust mites, mold, and the allergenic material shed
by cats and dogs. So although the wool rug itself may not be an asthma
trigger, it can have an indirect effect because it has trapped other
allergenic substances.
Woolen clothes are not usually allergenic. If you are itchy when wearing
wool, you are most likely bothered by the prickly fibers characteristic of
wool and not by wool allergy.>>
The suggestion that it could be all those things causing a reaction is most
probable.


And this is what I find about the definition of "cool wool"
Cool wool: Not a single type of fabric or knit, but the symbol for a variety
of extremely lightweight wool fabrics and knitwear that already meet the
standards for the Woolmark. Cool wool fabrics can take the form of a
traditional glen plaid or an unconventionally sheer gauze, as long as the
fabric weighs 6.5 to 8 ounces per yard or less and is made from smooth
worsted yarns.

Cool Wool - Lightweight, dry handle wool cloth made of worsted yarn with a
fabric weight of less than 330 grams per linier meter of cloth.

High Twist: Wool cloth in which the yarn has been lightly twisted before
being woven. This produces a springy, crisp, wrinkle-resistant cloth that
has a dry, pebbly hand. It drapes well and has been taken up these past few
years as lightweight men's suiting. Sometimes called "cool wool" and
"high-performance" worsted.

Cool Wool - Lightweight, dry handle wool cloth made of worsted yarn with a
fabric weight of less than 330 grams per linier meter of cloth.

Finally something with a bit more substance...

http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/aqldtable/5938.html

Yes, wool. This dramatic change in the wearability of wool has taken many
years of intensive research by sheep breeding scientists to meet the demand
for fabrics that are soft on the skin, light in weight and easy to care for.

It is the diameter of the wool fibre (measured in microns) that gives
clothes these qualities consumers are looking for. The finer the fibre, the
softer and lighter the fabric.

Wool growers in western Queensland have traditionally produced strong-medium
(20-23 micron) wool. To meet customer demand and capture higher prices at
the finer end of the market, the Agency is investigating whether fine wool
(19 micron and less) can be economically produced in this environment.

Agency scientists have introduced fine bloodline rams from the New England
Tablelands of New South Wales-a fine and superfine wool growing area-into a
medium wool flock in central Queensland.

More than 10 years of research has been dedicated to the genetic improvement
of fine wool sheep. This valuable information, combined with the Agency's
research results, will allow western Queensland wool growers to make sound
selection decisions and work towards increasing Queensland's share of the
world fine wool market



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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: check out this partlet --LINK
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:23:56 +0100
Status: RO

Gillian wrote:
> This is the only link I have other than the partlet close-up, but
I'm sure
> there's more to the portrait...
>
> http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1570_3.shtml
>

Well, no; that's all there is. It's a portrait of Elisabeth of
Austria, Queen of France, in the Louvre.

best wishes
Stevie

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:21:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > Tempting thought.... Hey, Jane, do the memebers of High Council
> > count as retainers?
> 
> No, we're *advisors*. Retainers are your household: you know, the
> Bedwarmer, the Remembrancer, the Mistress of the Privy Purse, that
> sort of thing. So, as your Alderman and representative of the
> People, I would advise you that giving people free clothing, even
> just a tabard, normally makes you popular with them, and this is a
> Good Thing. (Don't listen to the Chancellor. He has no taste in
> clothing.) 

Sounds good to me.
 
> (And I'd like to see any of the three retainers mentioned above
> wearing an orange tabard with their normal kit!)

<wince...>  

On the other hand, the Mistress of the Privy Purse alredy has a 
very nice orange and green Tudor-bethan set but I've not seen her 
wearing it in *years*... for that matter, the Guildmaster of the 
Leatherworkers has the matching set....
 
> Of course, you *could* decree that High Council should wear your
> livery in Court, along with their scarlet mantles (yes, the ones
> we don't yet possess) and best posh frocks. That puts me in orange,
> scarlet, blue, grey, day-glo pink and purple. So what other
> colours were you going to put on the tabard? Something tasteful in
> green and yellow? Or the badges of our office (mine's a nice black
> & yellow Bee)? 

They could wear something to indicate Guy is their King (that's be 
green and yellow with red accents)...  It would certainly bring out 
the true meaning of "colourful" which is one of Guy's ambitions for 
his Courts (lots of colourful and no *boring*, though he's begining to 
suspect the latter is unavoidable...<g>)



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Pictures of Peasant Beltaine and my dress
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 01:42:49 +1200
Status: RO

> Behind the comb, make a small pincurl and secure with small bobby pins.
The > pincurl can't fit through the teeth of the comb, so the whole
headdress stays
> put even for windy outdoor weddings.

Just a side note, not sure if it will work for this particular situation..

While doing a heck of a lot of extra work on Jack of All Trades a new
technique for keeping out wigs on was used. As I have very long hair, pin
curls are just too bulky to do under a wig (I wind up with a very thick
layer of hair indeed). So we had our hair french plaited in four rows going
*across* the head and alternating. The ends were then wrapped around and
between the rows.

The rows were what the pins were stuck into to hold the wigs on.
 Perhaps a single french plait under the braid would help.

Then again toupee clips are fantastic. They are used for hair pieces too
http://www.funwigs.com/cgi-bin/fw/WA1932_toupeeclips
They are very small btw. You could sew some underneath and clip them in.

I also have seen thse little things that look like very tight springs which
are used in ultra short hair to hold a pice on. doesn't sound necessary
here;)

michaela




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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] check out this partlet...
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:48:28 EDT
Status: RO

Thanks to everyone who suggested the pink-and-puff idea for this partlet.  
I'm going to mess with some scrap fabrics and see how it comes out, but I 
already think you are right.  I'm going to try sewing the crossbeads trhough 
both layers to make the poofs stay put.

<< Had you thought of "faking" the narrow straps by making them 
 wider (for stability) and sewing the shoulder-roll or sleeve-head 
 over the top so that it covers the outer portion of the strap making it 
 look like a narrower strap?
 
 I've heard of people doing this but never tried it myself. >>

Well, my finished pattern seems to sit very still with actual narrow straps.  
Or rather, not separate "straps", because it's a really a continuance of the 
bodice piece and only seamed where it meets the back of the bodice.  I also 
graded the "strap" to widen at both ends, filling in the uderarm area to make 
a circular armsceye.  My intentions are to hand-tack the shoulder rolls to 
the armsceye edge, covering the lacing.  Originally, I thought I'd sew the 
sleeves on as set-ins, but now I''ve decided to lace them on, because it will 
allow me to make a second set of sleeves later this year in white, 
blackworked to match my partlet.  I'll make a second underskirt too, with a 
pale-colored forepart, and wear it with the white sleeves, following one of 
the fashion fads of the 1570's.  (My current sleeves are the same cranberry 
mock-velvet as the gown, latticed with 1/4" black ribbon, and my forepart is 
black with gold trim, pearl strand, and gold filagrees with red gems.)  With 
wedding preparations, I don't have much time or money to devote to my SCA 
wardrobe this year.  I won't be able to make an entire second gown until late 
next year. but at least the changeable parts will allow me to vary my one 
gown.  And I do believe that's a period thing, to have only 1 or 2 good gowns 
and simply vary your accessories.

--Gillian
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In a message dated 5/10/2002 10:06:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Azelana@aol.com writes:


> Thanks to everyone who suggested the pink-and-puff idea for this partlet.  
> I'm going to mess with some scrap fabrics and see how it comes out, but I 
> already think you are right.  I'm going to try sewing the crossbeads 
> trhough 
> both layers to make the poofs stay put.
> 

Your choice of fabric may help in this respect [Duh!]. Silk organdy might 
work well....on the real one, but for a mock-up, I wouldn't want the expense. 
Still just doing a small sample in the real stuff may be worth it. A 
moderately heavily starched linen gauze is plausible and may be what the 
original was. But on such an elaborate partlet, may not silk be a real 
choice? 
I'm just asking.....

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 5/10/2002 10:06:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Azelana@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Thanks to everyone who suggested the pink-and-puff idea for this partlet. &nbsp;
<BR>I'm going to mess with some scrap fabrics and see how it comes out, but I 
<BR>already think you are right. &nbsp;I'm going to try sewing the crossbeads trhough 
<BR>both layers to make the poofs stay put.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Your choice of fabric may help in this respect [Duh!]. Silk organdy might work well....on the real one, but for a mock-up, I wouldn't want the expense. Still just doing a small sample in the real stuff may be worth it. A moderately heavily starched linen gauze is plausible and may be what the original was. But on such an elaborate partlet, may not silk be a real choice? 
<BR>I'm just asking.....</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA costuming)
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In a message dated 5/8/02 11:06:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
maggiros@adelphia.net writes:


> (If you can't live without sunglasses--well, are you sure?  Faires and
> Tourbnies are full of shady pockets.  They are green with non-reflective
> trees and grass instead of glarey concrete and asphalt.  Give it a try.)

As for me, yes, I am sure.  My eyes are incredibly sensitive.  (As in, at the 
end of a regular SCA event, spending most of the day in a pavilion or under a 
tree, I have a pounding headache and I had to quit working costumed faires, 
even for demos.)  I wear sunglasses all year round, rain or shine.  I try to 
make sure that I have a pair that at least don't call too much attention to 
themselves while in costume (with the exception of my silver framed Brighton 
glasses, which is a whole different story entirely).  And sometimes I am just 
plain silly, like wearing purple jewel lens with a purple coathardie and 
purple hat.  For me it is a limitation that I have to live with.  I try to 
make the best of it.  However, I can guarantee, that the day they develop 
contact lenses that do the same thing as sun glasses, I will standing in line 
to get a pair!

Kit



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/8/02 11:06:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, maggiros@adelphia.net writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">(If you can't live without sunglasses--well, are you sure? &nbsp;Faires and
<BR>Tourbnies are full of shady pockets. &nbsp;They are green with non-reflective
<BR>trees and grass instead of glarey concrete and asphalt. &nbsp;Give it a try.)</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>As for me, yes, I am sure. &nbsp;My eyes are incredibly sensitive. &nbsp;(As in, at the end of a regular SCA event, spending most of the day in a pavilion or under a tree, I have a pounding headache and I had to quit working costumed faires, even for demos.) &nbsp;I wear sunglasses all year round, rain or shine. &nbsp;I try to make sure that I have a pair that at least don't call too much attention to themselves while in costume (with the exception of my silver framed Brighton glasses, which is a whole different story entirely). &nbsp;And sometimes I am just plain silly, like wearing purple jewel lens with a purple coathardie and purple hat. &nbsp;For me it is a limitation that I have to live with. &nbsp;I try to make the best of it. &nbsp;However, I can guarantee, that the day they develop contact lenses that do the same thing as sun glasses, I will standing in line to get a pair!
<BR>
<BR>Kit
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 15:21:34 EDT
Status: RO


<< "women had their lower ribs removed." >>

Oh, goddess!  I've heard that too!  Now, I have no proof that they _didn't_, 
but considering the dangers involved in surgery throughout history -- heck, 
it still gets screwed up! -- I doubt women risked their lives to die of 
infection just for a corset in the Renaissance or even later in the Victorian 
era.

--Gillian
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 21:52:25 +0200
Status: RO


Hi,

My wedding pomander was a gold one.
I bought mine and the one for Cassandra in Utrecht but I have also an 
online sorce.
They are actually thimble cages.

http://www.barnyarns.com/products.asp?ID=CH4

Greetings,
        Deredere

>
>Where did you buy the pomander?  Or did you make it?  I need a goldtone one.
>
>Anyway, I look forward to more pics.  *smile*
>
>--Gillian
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA
  costuming)
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:55:17 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_16661750==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 02:35 PM 5/10/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 5/8/02 11:06:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
>maggiros@adelphia.net writes:
>
>>(If you can't live without sunglasses--well, are you sure?  Faires and
>>Tourbnies are full of shady pockets.  They are green with non-reflective
>>trees and grass instead of glarey concrete and asphalt.  Give it a try.)
>
>As for me, yes, I am sure.  My eyes are incredibly sensitive.  (As in, at 
>the end of a regular SCA event, spending most of the day in a pavilion or 
>under a tree, I have a pounding headache and I had to quit working 
>costumed faires, even for demos.)  I wear sunglasses all year round, rain 
>or shine. <<snips>> I try to make the best of it.  However, I can 
>guarantee, that the day they develop contact lenses that do the same thing 
>as sun glasses, I will standing in line to get a pair!
>
>Kit

Howdy all -  just back on after a long, long, "if I even have to look at 
another sewing machine I'm going to start reaching for an ice pick" sort of 
vacation.

I think I have a partial solution to the eye strain issue:

Keep your eyes lubricated. What a lot of people think is glare getting to 
them is really just plain old tired, dried-out eyes. While it's not a fix 
all solution, just keeping drops in your eyes in desert areas (which LA is) 
should lengthen the time until you just have to resort to some sort of dark 
lens.

Parasols! Depending on your time period, these lovely and useful items 
should help a ton. For 16th c. peoples,  umbrellas were in use in Spain, 
Italy, and I think France during this fashion epoch so play a character 
from those areas if you're worried about looking "correct".

For later periods look at period sources and then run with it, especially 
19th c. and forward folks. I'm not sure why parasols went so far out of 
fashion but I'm sure the ugliness of some of the modern styles has a lot to 
do with it. Finding decent parasols or even frames to recover is a journey 
unto it's self. We have good reproductions of shoes, eyeglasses, gloves, 
hats, jewelry, even walking sticks but I'm not impressed with what I've 
seen in the parasol department. And when you do find a good one, it's hella 
scary expensive. Someone needs to fix that - just tell me who to write to >; )

And lastly, if you just have to put the dreaded sunglasses on, go for 
something with a strangely period flair even if you have to mix periods, 
like syphilis glasses with your regency day dress. **grins** If you can't 
be perfect, at least have some panache.

Just a muddle of Friday afternoon opinions....


Gwyn Carnegie, suffragette
Patron saint of textile-related natural disasters and hopeless causes
University of California, Davis

--=====================_16661750==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 02:35 PM 5/10/2002 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial" size=2>In a
message dated 5/8/02 11:06:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
maggiros@adelphia.net writes: <br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>(If you can't live without
sunglasses--well, are you sure?&nbsp; Faires and <br>
Tourbnies are full of shady pockets.&nbsp; They are green with
non-reflective <br>
trees and grass instead of glarey concrete and asphalt.&nbsp; Give it a
try.)</font></blockquote><br>
As for me, yes, I am sure.&nbsp; My eyes are incredibly sensitive.&nbsp;
(As in, at the end of a regular SCA event, spending most of the day in a
pavilion or under a tree, I have a pounding headache and I had to quit
working costumed faires, even for demos.)&nbsp; I wear sunglasses all
year round, rain or shine. &lt;&lt;snips&gt;&gt; I try to make the best
of it.&nbsp; However, I can guarantee, that the day they develop contact
lenses that do the same thing as sun glasses, I will standing in line to
get a pair! <br><br>
Kit </blockquote><br>
Howdy all -&nbsp; just back on after a long, long, &quot;if I even have
to look at another sewing machine I'm going to start reaching for an ice
pick&quot; sort of vacation.<br><br>
I think I have a partial solution to the eye strain issue:<br><br>
Keep your eyes lubricated. What a lot of people think is glare getting to
them is really just plain old tired, dried-out eyes. While it's not a fix
all solution, just keeping drops in your eyes in desert areas (which LA
is) should lengthen the time until you just have to resort to some sort
of dark lens.<br><br>
Parasols! Depending on your time period, these lovely and useful items
should help a ton. For 16th c. peoples,&nbsp; umbrellas were in use in
Spain, Italy, and I think France during this fashion epoch so play a
character from those areas if you're worried about looking
&quot;correct&quot;. <br><br>
For later periods look at period sources and then run with it, especially
19th c. and forward folks. I'm not sure why parasols went so far out of
fashion but I'm sure the ugliness of some of the modern styles has a lot
to do with it. Finding decent parasols or even frames to recover is a
journey unto it's self. We have good reproductions of shoes, eyeglasses,
gloves, hats, jewelry, even walking sticks but I'm not impressed with
what I've seen in the parasol department. And when you do find a good
one, it's hella scary expensive. Someone needs to fix that - just tell me
who to write to &gt;; )<br><br>
And lastly, if you just have to put the dreaded sunglasses on, go for
something with a strangely period flair even if you have to mix periods,
like syphilis glasses with your regency day dress. **grins** If you can't
be perfect, at least have some panache.<br><br>
Just a muddle of Friday afternoon opinions....<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie, </b></font>suffragette<br>
Patron saint of textile-related natural disasters and hopeless
causes<br>
<b>University of California, Davis <br>
</b></html>

--=====================_16661750==_.ALT--

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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 16:09:18 EDT
Status: RO

Stevie writes:

<< Well, no; that's all there is. It's a portrait of Elisabeth of
 Austria, Queen of France, in the Louvre.>>

How disappointing!  I was so hoping to see her skirt someday...  *sigh*

--Gillian
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 17:56:39 EDT
Status: RO

I bought several costumes;Pokemon,was one that are made out of a thin pink 
foam material, I checked at JoAnns here and all they have is white and green 
foam.
Bonnie
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:08:36 -0400
Status: RO

Hm, I don't know if you're aware that this is a list of discussion about
historical costumes... I'm not sure the people here are the most qualified
to help you find foam and Pokemon costumes... they're, in general, more
qualified to talk about linen and wool, corsets, pleating, dyeing and
general historical costume construction...

Not to say that someone might not know the answer, just that it's a bit
off-topic...

----- Original Message -----
From: <KeckSimba@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Costume sourcing info


> I bought several costumes;Pokemon,was one that are made out of a thin pink
> foam material, I checked at JoAnns here and all they have is white and
green
> foam.
> Bonnie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Australian pearls?
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:31:28 -0700
Status: RO



Azelana@aol.com wrote:

> << Furthermore, genuine pearls are available from Australia for a very cheap
> price, though of course using 1500 would not be cheap ever. The Australian
> ones are freshwater pearls but chosen for their regularity. >>
>
> Would you have any contact info for these?  I mean, heck, if I can afford
> real I'll certainly use them on my wedding gown.
>
>

Well they might be getting suddenly a lot more expensive - there's been a big
oyster
kill here due to an algal bloom....

Claire


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sunglasses
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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<<(If you can't live without sunglasses--well, are you sure?  Faires and =

Tourbnies are full of shady pockets.  They are green with non-reflective =

trees and grass instead of glarey concrete and asphalt.  Give it a =
try.)>>

And for me, I *have* to wear sunglasses outdoors unless it is very over =
cast. I am on a quinine derivative (every day btw) which can cause =
severe eye damage and sunglasses help to control that.

I haven't had to test this in situ re SCA events, as I've only been on =
this medication for a few months  but I would not wear my pink plastic =
frames with purple lenses;)

I know that various peoples have also used coverings made of solid =
wood/or similar material with a thin slit to look through. This cuts out =
the glare and you still have good vision- try looking through a loosely =
woven sun hat you can see very well.

I know sunglasses were worn in the 19thC in a very similar style to the =
"Lennon" style. Not sure just what the purpose was as these were worn by =
a women in a photo I'm sure was indoors.

So I would wear something to protect my eyes, but not be too obvious =
with it- ie no pink plastic;)

michaela

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&lt;&lt;(If you can't live without=20
sunglasses--well, are you sure? &nbsp;Faires and <BR>Tourbnies are full =
of shady=20
pockets. &nbsp;They are green with non-reflective <BR>trees and grass =
instead of=20
glarey concrete and asphalt. &nbsp;Give it a try.)&gt;&gt;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>And for me, I *have* to =
wear=20
sunglasses outdoors unless it is very over cast. I am on a quinine=20
derivative&nbsp;(every day btw)&nbsp;which can cause severe eye damage =
and=20
sunglasses help to control that.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>I haven't had to test =
this in situ=20
re SCA events, as I've only been on this medication for a few =
months&nbsp; but I=20
would not wear my pink plastic frames with purple =
lenses;)</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>I know that various =
peoples have=20
also used coverings made of solid wood/or similar material with a thin =
slit to=20
look through. This cuts out the glare and you still have good vision- =
try=20
looking through a loosely woven sun hat you can see very=20
well.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>I know sunglasses were =
worn in the=20
19thC in a very similar style to the&nbsp;"Lennon"<FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial=20
color=3D#000000 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"> style. Not sure just what the =
purpose was as=20
these were worn by a women in a photo I'm sure was=20
indoors.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial=20
color=3D#000000 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial=20
color=3D#000000 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">So I would wear something to =
protect my eyes,=20
but not be too obvious with it- ie no pink =
plastic;)</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial=20
color=3D#000000 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial=20
color=3D#000000=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">michaela</DIV></FONT></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Australian pearls?
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 22:44:04 EDT
Status: RO

What type of pearls are you looking for.  I have a few wholesale sources that 
I can check.  I can usually pick up pearls up pretty inexpensive.  
Also how soon would you need them.

Osmondia
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sunglasses
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 20:36:47 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

"michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
> 
> And for me, I *have* to wear sunglasses outdoors unless it is very over =
> cast. I am on a quinine derivative (every day btw) which can cause =
> severe eye damage and sunglasses help to control that.
> 
> I haven't had to test this in situ re SCA events, as I've only been on =
> this medication for a few months  but I would not wear my pink plastic =
> frames with purple lenses;)

If it's Plaquenil (hydroxychloroquine), don't take chances.  My eye
surgeon told me when I first started on the stuff six years ago that 
the most common scenario for retinal damage was too much UV exposure
while on the drug.  I was told in no uncertain terms to wear the darkest
sunglasses I could get and a wide-brimmed hat.

> I know that various peoples have also used coverings made of solid =
> wood/or similar material with a thin slit to look through. This cuts out =
> the glare and you still have good vision- try looking through a loosely =
> woven sun hat you can see very well.

Still done for things like cross-country skiing and dog-sledding.

> I know sunglasses were worn in the 19thC in a very similar style to the =
> "Lennon" style. Not sure just what the purpose was as these were worn by =
> a women in a photo I'm sure was indoors.

A lot of "blind" people wore dark glasses to disguise any gaze problems.
This also goes for cross-eyed and wall-eyed individuals, and anyone with
cataracts.  Anyone who absolutely _needs_ vision correction today fell
under the category of "blind" until quite recently.  Laura Wilder Smith
wrote about her sister Mary's experience at a school for the blind.  A
couple of the girls there could see colors and rough shapes, so they used
to play tricks on one of the local merchants by identifying swatches of 
fabric.  I mean, they're "blind" right?  They had the merchant thinking
they were psychic for a while.  Those girls would probably be wearing very
thick glasses today, but wouldn't be at an institution for the blind.

I'm seriously thinking of getting violet lensed glasses in a suitable 
rectangle or oval frame for victorian events.  After I pay to get the 
lenses in my regular glasses replaced.  After 3 years, the titanium alloy
frames are still great, but the polycarbonate lenses have finally aquired
a couple nicks right in the center of my vision.  Now that we've stopped
our slide into poverty, I can afford to get them replaced.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:19:53 -0700
Status: RO


><< "women had their lower ribs removed." >>
>
>Oh, goddess!  I've heard that too!  Now, I have no proof that they _didn't_,
>but considering the dangers involved in surgery throughout history -- heck,
>it still gets screwed up! -- I doubt women risked their lives to die of
>infection just for a corset in the Renaissance or even later in the Victorian
>era.

You forgot the 'no anesthetic' aspect of Renaissance surgery.  Anasthetic 
still wasn't around in the earlier pert of the Victorian era either, and I 
don't know when it did become commonly used.


Kayta
    //// \\\
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      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:42:50 -0700
Status: RO

I guess the thing about sunglasses, then, is what period are you doing?  In
some cases, you've got plenty of leeway.  In others, little or none, and
that's only if this level of authenticity is an issue for you or for the
game you happen to be involved in.


MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Lee Thompson-Herbert
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 8:37 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sunglasses
>
>
> "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
> >
> > And for me, I *have* to wear sunglasses outdoors unless it is
> very over =
> > cast. I am on a quinine derivative (every day btw) which can cause =
> > severe eye damage and sunglasses help to control that.
> >

[snippety]

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: check out this partlet --LINK
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:52:59 -0700
Status: RO

Last summer we talked about this gown, and I know I shared out a full length
copy of it.  Of course, since the recent demise of my previous computer,
it's vanished into the ether.  But surely someone who asked me for it stil
has it.

There is also a b/w line drawing in <shudder> Norris, if you just want the
basic lines.

MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 6:24 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: check out this partlet --LINK
>
>
> Gillian wrote:
> > This is the only link I have other than the partlet close-up, but
> I'm sure
> > there's more to the portrait...
> >
> > http://www.marquise.de/1500/pics/1570_3.shtml
> >
>
> Well, no; that's all there is. It's a portrait of Elisabeth of
> Austria, Queen of France, in the Louvre.
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 09:06:50 -0700
Status: RO

At 11:42 PM -0700 5/10/02, Maggie Secara wrote:
>I guess the thing about sunglasses, then, is what period are you doing?  In
>some cases, you've got plenty of leeway.  In others, little or none, and
>that's only if this level of authenticity is an issue for you or for the
>game you happen to be involved in.

And that last part is one of the key issues here: are you 
participating in a group or event that is the equivalent of a 
theatrical performance (where visual effect is one of the primary 
goals), or are you participating in a group that has purposes other 
than "display for an audience" (in which case, visual effect may be 
only one of a vast number of goals).

There's no point in scolding a cat for being a bad dog.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: [h-cost] Cheap Linen
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:31:52 -0500
Status: RO

Just to let people know,
Phoenix Textiles has 3 colors of lightweight linen selling
at a promotional price of $3.35 per yard!
The 3 colors are red, terra cotta and a golden yellow.
It's 100% linen, 44 inches wide.

Here's the address:
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/prompriclin.html

Sheryl Nance-Durst

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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:42:08 -0600
Status: RO


Last year, a local theater company was having a costume sale.  Even
though I was one of the early people allowed in, many of the racks had
already been savaged by people who had run to them, taken armfuls of
costumes, and scuttled off to corners to try them on.  Left on the
rack was a bright orange Italian Ren robe.  I looked at it, and saw
the name of one of the actresses from the company sewn into the
neckline.  I subscribe to the company, so I knew the actress was
blonde and fair like I am, and about my size.  I also know I can wear
bright orange because I do!  I thought it was beautiful, so I snagged
it with glee.  I was probably the only person in there who wasn't
turned off by the color.  When I show it to friends, they think it's a
difficult color to wear, but when I put it on for them they see how it
can work on the right person.

						...eliz

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 11 16:49:48 2002
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:37:54 +0200
Status: RO

Hi
I just want to envy you all!
Tomorrow i am going with the danish lace guild on a trip to
Frederiksborg Castle where we are going to hunt portraits with lace :-)
Jumping up and down yeahhh!!

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Livery colours
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 14:46:42 -0700
Status: RO

At 2:11 PM +0000 5/10/02, Teddy wrote:
>  > > Teddy - can you put all your retainers in orange livery?
>>
>>  No reason why not. I've seen at least one source citing documents that
>>  showed livery didn't necessarily reflect the heraldry of the household
>>  head, or even heraldic colors at all. It apparently reflected whatever
>>  fabric the householder could get in appropriate price and quantity,
>>  and the colors changed periodically based on availability of suitable
>>  cloth.
>
>Thanks Robin - that *might* be uiseful to know as I've been
>wondering if, as King, I should do livery (if I were ever to get around
>to it) forthe Royal Household in Guy's personal heraldic colours
>(yellow and green checky) or in the heraldic colours of the country
>itself  Scarlet with... erm.... well,  I suppose white and yellow or
>silver and gold depending
>
>If I can do it on the basis you suggest I just need to raid the stash
>for orange fabric (like that'd be difficult) or get/find something in
>natural fibres that can be thrown in the machine with orange
>dye....<G>

I believe that the young Earl of Essex (Elizabeth I's favorite) spent 
some time chasing around France, supposedly helping the Huguenots, 
with a rather large bunch of retainers in *bright orange* livery. I 
think I remember he's said to have chosen that color because one of 
his rivals for Elizabeth's attention, Sir Walter Raleigh, garbed 
_his_ followers in tangerine (or tawny, I forget) and he wanted to 
clash with them. Apparently he succeeded <g>.

Essex's heraldry colors, BTW, were red and white, so it's true that 
livery colors didn't always have much to do with the owner's 
heraldry. The arms of England at the time were red, gold and blue, 
for instance, but Elizabeth's livery colors were green and white. Her 
cousin (or possibly half-brother) Sir Henry Carey, Baron Hunsdon, had 
arms that were black and white, and livery that was blue and gold. 
Baron Stafford had arms in gold and red, and livery of red and black.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: tawney
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:25:35 -0400
Status: RO



But as a heraldic color, "tawney" is not *bright* orange.

Gail Finke

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 11 22:38:40 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] hand muffs
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:10:58 EDT
Status: RO

Does anyone have documentation for the use of hand muffs up to 1600 C.E.?  
Thanks.

Nancy / Ingvild
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand muffs
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 00:58:38 -0700
Status: RO


>Does anyone have documentation for the use of hand muffs up to 1600 C.E.?

In G. W. Digby's Elizabethan embroidery book, there's a picture of what 
sure looks like a muff, plate 78 in back.  It's from the 1580's, by the 
costumes - it's not dated in the caption.


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] What's My Line
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 05:11:14 -0400
Status: RO

I work through the night and at 4AM I take a break and watch the old game
show, "What My Line."  I love watching the show for the wonderful evening
wear worn by the panelists.  The fun part of the show is when someone that
is NOW famous is on the show, but is new to the world at that time.  The
biggest giggle I have had was when Col. Sanders was a guest and no one knew
him or about his product.

Well, tonight was another one of those giggle night... the guest was Mary
Quant.  They didn't know who she was but the panelists loved her
mini-dress... which was about three inches above her knees.  One thing that
Mary said that was interesting.  She was all excited about the first
American retail chain to carry her clothing lines.  So I will have a little
fun with you all... what  retail chain was it?  BTW, this show originally
aired in 1966 or 1967.  Mary said she had just received an award from the
Queen of England for her achievements in fashion.

Another bonus to watching this show, on a historic note, a lot of the
mystery guests, are out promoting their latest Broadway play or film.  One
of my favorite guests was Bette Davis who was promoting her latest film,
"Whatever Happened to Baby Jane".  On the game show, she wore a gown with
lots of chiffon.  As she went over to meet the panelists, she would throw
the chiffon out in front of her very dramatically and prance a few steps.
Then she would throw the chiffon again.  As my first fashion professor said,
"A lady must make a great entrance AND exit!"

Well you all sure do miss some fun costumes on TV while you are sleeping!

 Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 08:09:15 -0400
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 5:11 AM
Subject: [h-cost] What's My Line


> Well, tonight was another one of those giggle night... the guest was Mary
> Quant.  They didn't know who she was but the panelists loved her
> mini-dress... which was about three inches above her knees.  One thing
that
> Mary said that was interesting.  She was all excited about the first
> American retail chain to carry her clothing lines.  So I will have a
little
> fun with you all... what  retail chain was it?

I believe it was J C Penney

Dianne

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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 21:24:54 +0200
Status: RO

Hi.
I am in great troubble now!
The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me, if
i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going to
look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.
This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered suit
wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST


Bjarne


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 12:43:43 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_16397000==_.ALT
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I've been going slightly crazy this last week shopping for pieces and parts 
for a 1916 ballgown.  The two items that seem to be the toughest to find 
are fine black netting suitable for some serious beading and anything with 
a 2.5" Louis heel that isn't a character shoe or black.

One the heels, I'm looking for them in satin that's dyeable or leather if 
it's a light color. Bridal shoes would work but no one seems to have that 
heel. I've bought from Peter Fox before (not for me personally - drat). 
He's my last choice just because of cost. There has to be someone selling 
these to brides somewhere.

  **bangs her head on the keyboard in frustration**

Anyone have a source on these?

Thanks in advance - hopefully


Gwyn Carnegie, suffragette
University of California, Davis 
--=====================_16397000==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<br>
I've been going slightly crazy this last week shopping for pieces and
parts for a 1916 ballgown.&nbsp; The two items that seem to be the
toughest to find are fine black netting suitable for some serious beading
and anything with a 2.5&quot; Louis heel that isn't a character shoe or
black. <br><br>
One the heels, I'm looking for them in satin that's dyeable or leather if
it's a light color. Bridal shoes would work but no one seems to have that
heel. I've bought from Peter Fox before (not for me personally - drat).
He's my last choice just because of cost. There has to be someone selling
these to brides somewhere.<br><br>
&nbsp;**bangs her head on the keyboard in frustration**<br><br>
Anyone have a source on these? <br><br>
Thanks in advance - hopefully<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie, </b></font>suffragette<br>
<b>University of California, Davis </b></html>

--=====================_16397000==_.ALT--

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:05:47 EDT
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--part1_8f.1bedae58.2a11769b_boundary
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       But how wonderful to have your lace in the museum!!!  And there will 
be other times you can wear your beautiful embroidered suit.  Congratulations 

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;But how wonderful to have your lace in the museum!!! &nbsp;And there will be other times you can wear your beautiful embroidered suit. &nbsp;Congratulations 
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_8f.1bedae58.2a11769b_boundary--
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 21:36:42 +0100
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

Hi.
I am in great troubble now!
The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me,
if
i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going
to
look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.
This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered
suit
wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST

Bjarne, it's a great honour, and one you really deserve. I wish I had
a magic wand to enable me to say:
You shall go to the ball!
In your new suit!

But instead you'll have to go to the ball in your old suit. Well done,
anyway!

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 20:03:53 -0400
Status: RO

Dianne,

Yes, it was JC Penney.  I sure didn't think that Penney's would have been so
fashion forward at the time.  Now how did you know that?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:26:35 -0700
Status: RO

At 2:39 PM +1200 5/11/02, michaela wrote:
><<(If you can't live without sunglasses--well, are you sure?  Faires and
>Tourbnies are full of shady pockets.  They are green with non-reflective
>trees and grass instead of glarey concrete and asphalt.  Give it a try.)>>
>
>And for me, I *have* to wear sunglasses outdoors unless it is very 
>over cast. I am on a quinine derivative (every day btw) which can 
>cause severe eye damage and sunglasses help to control that.
>
>I haven't had to test this in situ re SCA events, as I've only been 
>on this medication for a few months  but I would not wear my pink 
>plastic frames with purple lenses;)

If you're doing Middle Ages or Elizabethan period, you could try a 
big wide-brimmed straw hat with a black gauze or silk veil over it.

I've also wondered occasionally if anyone makes UV-protective dark 
contact lenses. I get migraines from sun glare, especially when it's 
hot, and have more or less trained myself to stay in the shade at 
summer events, and when possible, not to stare out at brightly-sunlit 
scenes from my shady refuge either.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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From: Kate <ailithmac@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Timeless Textiles
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 18:27:05 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


--- Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> Hey, speaking of TT, does Timeless have a new website or something?
>  I only get a site with baby rugs on search, and my old links
>don't work.
> 
> --Gillian

Not right now. They happened to be at an SCA event that I attended
yesterday. He said that they're working on it, but don't have a set
date as of now.

They are supposed to be doing e-flyers though. I'll post when I get
one.

kate

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:31:03 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_116.1127ac73.2a117c87_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Congratulations!  How wonderful for you.  A lot of work, it is true, but at 
least you are recognized as so very talented in your native land, yes?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"All the world's a stage, 
and all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances; 
and one man in his time plays many parts."
W. Shakespeare

In a message dated 5/13/2002 12:57:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:


> Hi.
> I am in great troubble now!
> The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me, if
> i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going to
> look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.
> This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered suit
> wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST
> 
> 
> Bjarne
> 


--part1_116.1127ac73.2a117c87_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Congratulations!&nbsp; How wonderful for you.&nbsp; A lot of work, it is true, but at least you are recognized as so very talented in your native land, yes?<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"All the world's a stage, <BR>
and all the men and women merely players.<BR>
They have their exits and their entrances; <BR>
and one man in his time plays many parts."<BR>
W. Shakespeare<BR>
<BR>
In a message dated 5/13/2002 12:57:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time, <BR>
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hi.<BR>
I am in great troubble now!<BR>
The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me, if<BR>
i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going to<BR>
look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.<BR>
This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered suit<BR>
wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Bjarne<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_116.1127ac73.2a117c87_boundary--
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 14 13:57:36 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Nicole goes orange (just so that there's a post)
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:28:59 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Somehow I felt it was rather silent here, so I boldly go where I never went
before and post something on.... (tadaaa!) ORANGE!

Teddy, you know I'm the one for the subdued and rich colours like wedgewood
blue, navy, black, dark red, etc etc but I wanted to try out a 1690s
morning/day gown (the mantua developed out of these gowns) which are usually
made from brocad silk and lined in silk. There is one surviving on Lady
Clapham's doll (on display in the V&A) and a male one from the same period
currently in the 'Men in skirts' exhibition. (I'm now a Friend of the V&A and
member of the Costume Society and much more often there than ever before!
Wonderful...)
Long story cut short, that takes at least 7-8 meters of the narrower silk
brocade and the same in the plain affeta lining, funnily enough I didn't feel
like hat expense on something which was experimental. I had an opholstery
cotton brocade in a lovely bottle dark green with orange small patterns and
needed a lining for it. For once I didn't go for the proper silk (reasons see
above) but for a higher quality viscose lining in a screaming burning matching
warm orange! I must admit I am amazed how blooming good the dark green looks
with the orange lining.
It worked out fine and looks great, just have to do the hand stitching duties
now. But my goodness is this thing huge and heavy with its train.
I promise piccies if anyone wants it, but we're off to an event in Cumbria next
weekend.

That emans if I ever get out of my mantua-incurred-debts I'll make the same one
in the prope silk materials. ;-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: check out this partlet --LINK
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:16:17 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Stevie writes:
> 
> << Well, no; that's all there is. It's a portrait of Elisabeth of
>  Austria, Queen of France, in the Louvre.>>
> 
> How disappointing!  I was so hoping to see her skirt someday... 
> *sigh*

Gillian, just hink of all the fun you could have gues...erm... 
*extrapolating* what the skirt would look like....

It could be, purple satin with green and orange tartan guards 
around the hem, edged in gold bobin lace laid over scarlet bands, it 
could be beige twill with rows of spangles making a diamond 
pattern interspersed with alternating rows of blue and red bobin-
lace... or it could just match the bodice fabric and hang very nicely 
over a moderate-sized farthingale.....<GG>

Teddy
(having a silly moment)


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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:23:56 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> Last year, a local theater company was having a costume sale.  Even
> though I was one of the early people allowed in, many of the racks had
> already been savaged by people who had run to them, taken armfuls of
> costumes, and scuttled off to corners to try them on.  Left on the
> rack was a bright orange Italian Ren robe.  I looked at it, and saw
> the name of one of the actresses from the company sewn into the
> neckline.  I subscribe to the company, so I knew the actress was
> blonde and fair like I am, and about my size.  I also know I can wear
> bright orange because I do!  I thought it was beautiful, so I snagged
> it with glee.  I was probably the only person in there who wasn't
> turned off by the color.  When I show it to friends, they think it's a
> difficult color to wear, but when I put it on for them they see how it
> can work on the right person.

It must have been "mant" then... How lucky for you!

Any pictures of you in it?



Teddy
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 07:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Ah! Hat sources:

here are the best suppliers online:

Judith M
http://www.judithm.com/products.html

Leko
http://hatsupply.com/

both ladies are very very helpful and will take the time to help you
figure out what you need.

These aren's the cheap little straws that you can get for $5 - they are
very nice, sturdy, fine-gague straws that feel wonderful!

I believe that both places also carry the braid that you can make hats out
of - and books to show you how. I only work in felt - or I would help you
more.

Truly



--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> Hi, gang.  I just *know* I saved some old messages about historically
> accurate straw hats, but can I find them now??? oh, heck no.....;-(
> I seem to recall some discussion about the relatively wide-brimmed straw
> hats (kinda like the "coolie hats" you can buy in some import stores),
> which had a flatter crown on them than said coolie hats.  These
> relatively flat straw hats were used in the Colonial U.S.? (I
> think...it's been a long week) and also showed up in a similar style in
> 16th c. Flemish clothing for middle-class women.....
> I very much need a shade hat for summer events, as I've really got to
> minimize my sun exposure (I already do the shade and sunscreen thang!
> <g>), and am really hoping to find a source--merchant, sutler, etc., who
> sells these things.  Or, alternatively, some sources for buying the
> straw braid and instructions on how to *make* one of the darned things!
> Can anybody help me with this?
> Thanks so much,
> Sue, hatless in MT (hey, sunshine and *no snow* today--yeah!!!)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 12:05:53 -0500
Status: RO

Help! I have a lightweight linen that I want to make into a doublet for my
husband. However, the linen is way too lightweight. But I'm not sure how
heavy a lining fabric or what kind I should use. I want to keep this as cool
as possible for him to wear. Would a heavyweight linen or linen/cotten blend
be enough? Or would I need something along the lines of a denim?

Thanks!


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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Subject: [h-cost] 1914 dress patterns
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:40:02 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



Advice requested!

I'm beginning to work on a 1914 dress, inspired by this photo:
http://www.wonderland.com/~alice/sew/archives/1914_garden_dress/concept_big.html

I've been through most of my books looking for similar styles so that
I could draft my pattern, but the styles seem to be just a bit too early or too late for that style of dress.  Does anyone have any suggestions for
commercial patterns or which books I could look into?   I found a few
similar styles in La Mode Illustree from the Vintage Pattern Lending
Library, but I dread having to get someone to translate the French for me
in order to sort through their pattern-overlay-tracing hell. 
(that's here http://www.vpll.org/library/lamode/lm301913/index.html )


any ideas?  thanks!



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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:28:01 -0400
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Dear list:

A friend of mine wants to know what kind of embroidery silk people used in
the middle ages, preferably the 14th century. She assumes they did not use
the kind we do, with the six twisted strands twisted together, but doesn't
know where to look to find what they did use -- how many strands, what kind
of twist, how thick, etc. Do any of the esteemed folks here know?

Gail Finke


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--part1_a6.2612fe10.2a11917a_boundary
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Bonnie,

While it is certainly true that this is primarily a historical costuming 
list, there are many of us here who do theatrical costuming and although the 
subject of the use of foam might be more common over at f-costume, I happen 
to have utilized the foam (I believe it is the same foam) you speak of 
recently on some cabaret costume pieces for  the musical "Cabaret".  So it 
isn't completely off topic, as it made a nice lightweight substitute for 
1930s period "costumes" --- literally.  I have no idea what substance they 
were originally made of, it was impossible to tell from the photographs. ;)

Anyway, the company is flexi-foam and had a url on their packaging of 
www.fibrecraft.com.  They are located in Niles, Illinois 60714 (no street 
given)

Hope this is helpful..

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"All the world's a stage, 
and all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances; 
and one man in his time plays many parts."
W. Shakespeare

In a message dated 5/10/2002 3:09:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:


> Hm, I don't know if you're aware that this is a list of discussion about
> historical costumes... I'm not sure the people here are the most qualified
> to help you find foam and Pokemon costumes... they're, in general, more
> qualified to talk about linen and wool, corsets, pleating, dyeing and
> general historical costume construction...
> 


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Bonnie,<BR>
<BR>
While it is certainly true that this is primarily a historical costuming list, there are many of us here who do theatrical costuming and although the subject of the use of foam might be more common over at f-costume, I happen to have utilized the foam (I believe it is the same foam) you speak of recently on some cabaret costume pieces for&nbsp; the musical "Cabaret".&nbsp; So it isn't completely off topic, as it made a nice lightweight substitute for 1930s period "costumes" --- literally.&nbsp; I have no idea what substance they were originally made of, it was impossible to tell from the photographs. ;)<BR>
<BR>
Anyway, the company is flexi-foam and had a url on their packaging of www.fibrecraft.com.&nbsp; They are located in Niles, Illinois 60714 (no street given)<BR>
<BR>
Hope this is helpful..<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"All the world's a stage, <BR>
and all the men and women merely players.<BR>
They have their exits and their entrances; <BR>
and one man in his time plays many parts."<BR>
W. Shakespeare<BR>
<BR>
In a message dated 5/10/2002 3:09:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hm, I don't know if you're aware that this is a list of discussion about<BR>
historical costumes... I'm not sure the people here are the most qualified<BR>
to help you find foam and Pokemon costumes... they're, in general, more<BR>
qualified to talk about linen and wool, corsets, pleating, dyeing and<BR>
general historical costume construction...<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_a6.2612fe10.2a11917a_boundary--
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:42:12 -0400
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http://home.earthlink.net/~gchristen/Parasols.html
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:52:21 -0700
Status: RO

To Bjarne-

Congratulations!!! What a great commission even though it bumps the suit
to a back burner!!! Can you send pictures of the baby clothes when it's
all said and done? Kudos in bushels to you!!!

Theresa Eacker

Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi.
> I am in great troubble now!
> The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me, if
> i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going to
> look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.
> This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered suit
> wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST
> 
> Bjarne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA 
 costuming)
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 19:19:41 -0400
Status: RO

> References: I know there is a whole book on spectacles, the reminder of
> which title I begged from someone last year, and which I have lost in the
> recent hard drive crash. And in that book are any number of 15th-16th
> century samples of spectacles with side pieces.

Maggie, if you can remember any info about any refs showing spectacles, I would
be interested. When you say "side-pieces", do you mean solid arms or the cording
that we spoke about earlier? I would like to see early docs of solid earpieces,
as I have never seen the like before in all of the illos I have seen. Is it
possible that there was that old mistake of switching up 17th century for the
1700s? Thanks in advance, Mike T.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Flat caps"
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 20:13:40 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. When you say "flat-cap", which style are you referring to? I suspect
that, like a number of fashionable items, the flatcap sort of evolved
from earlier variants. Perhaps I can locate something from about the
1530s. I just saw an photo of a tapestry of the Battle of Pavia, showing
a campfollower wearing a flat cap. The battle was in 1525 although I
think the tapestry was made 5 years later. These were also Germans and
Swiss in Italy, not English. I'll take a look in a few other sources I
have for craftspeople of the period.  Mike T.

>
>
> Does anyone know when the flat cap began being worn by
> craftsmen/women in England?
>

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From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@sound.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Off-Topic : Dinotopia
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 20:03:17 -0500
Status: RO

This is WAY off-topic, but did anyone happen to videotape
the first night of Dinotopia? Please?!?

If so, respond to me off-list.

Thanks.
Sheryl Nance-Durst

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 14 14:00:46 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] renaissance baby in long clothes
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:33:31 -0700
Status: RO

Oh but Bjarne! Of all the things to have to put your own projects off for,
this is a good one.  (I presume they're paying you. <g>)  What a terrific
opportunity!  And who better than you.

Congratulations,


MaggiRos




> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Leif Drews
> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 12:25 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] renaissance baby in long clothes
>
>
> Hi.
> I am in great troubble now!
> The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me, if
> i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going to
> look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.
> This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered suit
> wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST
>
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
>
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
>
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] renaissance baby in long clothes
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:27:28 -0400
Status: RO

Congratulations!!!!!  Perhaps if you work fast........
Good luck for all, and please post pictures.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 3:25 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] renaissance baby in long clothes


Hi.
I am in great troubble now!
The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me, if
i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going to
look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.
This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered suit
wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST


Bjarne


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 21:07:51 -0700
Status: RO


>I am in great troubble now!
>The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me, if
>i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going to
>look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.
>This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered suit
>wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST

You'll just have to settle for fame and glory.


Kayta
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:39:31 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, but Bjarne....wow! What a marvelous opportunity! How neat!
So-- tell us more about this lace for the baby...Is it lace for edgings?
or insertions? or something lacey all over?
--Sue

Bjarne Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi.
> I am in great troubble now!
> The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, has asked me, if
> i would make lace for a doll baby in long clothes. The baby is going to
> look like Christian IV as a baby in 1577.
> This is a task i could not resist, but it means that my embroidered suit
> wont be finished for the oktober ball at Stockholm anyway.......BLAST
> 
> Bjarne
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 07:14:51 +0000
Status: RO

Uhm, what's wrong with the list? I haven't received anything for almost two 
days I believe.

David

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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 03:59:10 -0400
Status: RO

YEA!! I had a little time to explore... and found a neat website about
masks.  Go to www.masks.org   The museum section is really nice.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Pictures of Peasant Beltaine and my dress
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:47:17 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Gillian and Michaela and everyone!

I'm back now!

Thanks for the ideas for keeping the hair on :))) It's a nice small project
to do while recovering from that dress...

Ok here's a question from my ever learning self...

What I wanted to do it to attach a small cap of the same silk with pearls as
my sleeves and foreskirt to the braid band - big enough to hold all my hair.
Is this appropriate for the outfit? I really like the picture of Maria of
Austria Queen of France and the way her hair is done but unfortunately we
don't get to see the back, only the billiments (sp). What do you all think
was done?

And thanks Deredere for posting the link for the 'pomander' aka thimble
holder - Deredere gave me mine and it is really nice - unfortunately I
forgot my bead box at the event so it will be a while before the belt is
finished (still have the pomander however :)))

Cass :)

> Cass writes:
> 
> <<  At the beginning I had a snood attached to the braid but
> it was too heavy and pulled the braid off (I need a comb or something) >>
> 
> Modern bridal veils use a haircomb whipstitched to the headband, circlet, bun
> cage, or tiara.  In your case, it'd get stitched to the braid on the
> underside so the braid and your own hair would camouflage it.  Oh, and a
> hairdresser that specializes in weddings told me a great trick to keep it in
> place for fine hair.:
> 
> Behind the comb, make a small pincurl and secure with small bobby pins.  The
> pincurl can't fit through the teeth of the comb, so the whole headdress stays
> put even for windy outdoor weddings.
> 
> Where did you buy the pomander?  Or did you make it?  I need a goldtone one.
> 
> Anyway, I look forward to more pics.  *smile*
> 
> --Gillian
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:41:41 EDT
Status: RO

><< "women had their lower ribs removed." >>
>
>Oh, goddess!  I've heard that too!  Now, I have no proof that they _didn't_,
>but considering the dangers involved in surgery throughout history -- heck,
>it still gets screwed up! -- I doubt women risked their lives to die of
>infection just for a corset in the Renaissance or even later in the 
Victorian
>era.

You forgot the 'no anesthetic' aspect of Renaissance surgery.  Anasthetic 
still wasn't around in the earlier pert of the Victorian era either, and I 
don't know when it did become commonly used.

I believe I read once that anesthetic for childbirth didn't become popular 
until Queen Victoria had it for one of her children.  I know anesthetic was 
used during the American Civil War (early 1860's), if the surgeon hadn't run 
out of it.

Leah
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Sometimes the list gets plugged because there are too many addresses
bouncing, and it needs to be manually restarted to begin delivering
the mail again.

							...eliz

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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:19:31 EDT
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In a message dated 5/14/2002 1:51:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:


> It could be, purple satin with green and orange tartan guards 
> around the hem, edged in gold bobin lace laid over scarlet bands, it 
> could be beige twill with rows of spangles making a diamond 
> pattern interspersed with alternating rows of blue and red bobin-
> lace... or it could just match the bodice fabric and hang very nicely 
> over a moderate-sized farthingale.....<

AGAIN???? Don't they do anything original in this period?! :-P

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 5/14/2002 1:51:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">It could be, purple satin with green and orange tartan guards 
<BR>around the hem, edged in gold bobin lace laid over scarlet bands, it 
<BR>could be beige twill with rows of spangles making a diamond 
<BR>pattern interspersed with alternating rows of blue and red bobin-
<BR>lace... or it could just match the bodice fabric and hang very nicely 
<BR>over a moderate-sized farthingale.....&lt;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>AGAIN???? Don't they do anything original in this period?! :-P</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 5/14/02 10:45:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time, claning@igc.org 
writes:


> If you're doing Middle Ages or Elizabethan period, you could try a 
> big wide-brimmed straw hat with a black gauze or silk veil over it.

Speaking of which, does anyone know of a company that makes custom straw 
hats?  I have a huge head for a female, not to mention a ton of hair that is 
really thick, buying standard hats is not an option.

Any help, would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/14/02 10:45:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time, claning@igc.org writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">If you're doing Middle Ages or Elizabethan period, you could try a 
<BR>big wide-brimmed straw hat with a black gauze or silk veil over it.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Speaking of which, does anyone know of a company that makes custom straw hats? &nbsp;I have a huge head for a female, not to mention a ton of hair that is really thick, buying standard hats is not an option.
<BR>
<BR>Any help, would be appreciated.
<BR>
<BR>Thanks,
<BR>Kit</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: check out this partlet --LINK
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In a message dated 5/14/02 10:51:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:


> It could be, purple satin with green and orange tartan guards 
> around the hem, edged in gold bobin lace laid over scarlet bands, it 
> could be beige twill with rows of spangles making a diamond 
> pattern interspersed with alternating rows of blue and red bobin-
> lace... or it could just match the bodice fabric and hang very nicely 
> over a moderate-sized farthingale.....<GG>
> 
> Teddy
> (having a silly moment)
> 

(shuddering)  Teddy, where do you live, so I can make sure never to go to any 
sort of costume event you are attending.  :)  (Yes, this from the woman who 
admits to have sunglasses to match every color costume she wears.)

Kit
(who is way to stressed to be serious)

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/14/02 10:51:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">It could be, purple satin with green and orange tartan guards 
<BR>around the hem, edged in gold bobin lace laid over scarlet bands, it 
<BR>could be beige twill with rows of spangles making a diamond 
<BR>pattern interspersed with alternating rows of blue and red bobin-
<BR>lace... or it could just match the bodice fabric and hang very nicely 
<BR>over a moderate-sized farthingale.....&lt;GG&gt;
<BR>
<BR>Teddy
<BR>(having a silly moment)
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>(shuddering) &nbsp;Teddy, where do you live, so I can make sure never to go to any sort of costume event you are attending. &nbsp;:) &nbsp;(Yes, this from the woman who admits to have sunglasses to match every color costume she wears.)
<BR>
<BR>Kit
<BR>(who is way to stressed to be serious)</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's My Line
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:32:35 -0400
Status: RO

Actually, it was a guess, based on the fact that Davy Jones mentions a line
of Monkees clothing at J C Penney in his autobiography!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's My Line


> Dianne,
>
> Yes, it was JC Penney.  I sure didn't think that Penney's would have been
so
> fashion forward at the time.  Now how did you know that?
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Subject: [h-cost] 1914 DRESS
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 15:06:47 EDT
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Hi Heather, I don't know how period correct you're trying to be with your 
dress but a quick and dirty (not to mention cheap) solution could be to use 
simplicity's my fair lady pattern 9699 
http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?designId=5884&design=9699<A HREF="http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?designId=5884&design=9699">Simplicity 
DesignViewer</A> 

This pattern has the underdress collar you're looking for in the view in 
white. You could cut another version of the bodice and make a u-shaped 
opening without the collar for the over bodice.  The skirt of the design you 
chose seems simple enough that maybe you don't even need a pattern - a long 
tight straight skirt underneath and gathered flounces on top of that...if you 
cut the dsleves of the green flowered version slightly fuller and put a band 
at the bottom they would be close to the sleeves in the plate.  Hope this 
helps, good luck!

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2><BR>
<BR>
Hi Heather, I don't know how period correct you're trying to be with your dress but a quick and dirty (not to mention cheap) solution could be to use simplicity's my fair lady pattern 9699 http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?designId=5884&amp;design=9699<A HREF="http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?designId=5884&design=9699">Simplicity DesignViewer</A> <BR>
<BR>
This pattern has the underdress collar you're looking for in the view in white. You could cut another version of the bodice and make a u-shaped opening without the collar for the over bodice.&nbsp; The skirt of the design you chose seems simple enough that maybe you don't even need a pattern - a long tight straight skirt underneath and gathered flounces on top of that...if you cut the dsleves of the green flowered version slightly fuller and put a band at the bottom they would be close to the sleeves in the plate.&nbsp; Hope this helps, good luck!<BR>
<BR>
Cheers,<BR>
<BR>
Loren Dearborn<BR>
marionetta@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1914 dress patterns
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:09:17 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_15437875==_.ALT
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At 10:40 AM 5/13/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Advice requested!
>
>I'm beginning to work on a 1914 dress, inspired by this photo:
>http://www.wonderland.com/~alice/sew/archives/1914_garden_dress/concept_big.html
>
>I've been through most of my books looking for similar styles so that
>I could draft my pattern, but the styles seem to be just a bit too early 
>or too late for that style of dress.

I've seen several tiered skirts dating from 1911 to 1914 (maybe 1915). This 
is close to what you had in mind I think 
http://marquise.de/1900/pics/1910/1912_4.shtml
There was even a black lace one that just sold on ebay of the weekend 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2101366322. The images 
were already taken down but perhaps you could contact the seller for more 
information.

It sounds like you're fine with pattern drafting; how are you with draping? 
Personally I love VPLL and Attic Copies but I don't recommend them to 
people who aren't really experienced with old patterns.

If all you need is a visual concept of the pattern layout and are willing 
to draft a pattern based off that, try 
http://marquise.de/1900/schnitte/s1920.shtml.  She has other patterns, you 
just need to barter to get copies of the some of her vintage ones that she 
hasn't built graphic files for yet. You've most likely read this article 
already http://www.gbacg.org/teens.htm, but maybe she knows of more pattern 
sources. Another suggestion is perhaps there is something similar you can 
adapt from one of  R.L. Shep's books. These have been fabulously helpful 
for me.

Personally, when it comes to these dresses, I start by making the 
foundation / lining and then draping. If you're able to try that approach, 
any of my above suggestions should work for you. I can also try to answer 
more questions off the list, just don't count on me though. Anyone here who 
knows me will tell you, I'm awful at keeping up with my email despite my 
best intentions >; (  Speaking of which, i finally brought my craftman 
links files to the campus to forward to people - I just can't remember who 
needed them. **sighs**

>  Does anyone have any suggestions for
>commercial patterns or which books I could look into?   I found a few
>similar styles in La Mode Illustree from the Vintage Pattern Lending
>Library, but I dread having to get someone to translate the French for me
>in order to sort through their pattern-overlay-tracing hell.
>(that's here http://www.vpll.org/library/lamode/lm301913/index.html )
>
>any ideas?  thanks!

Gwyn Carnegie,
University of California, Davis

--=====================_15437875==_.ALT
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<html>
At 10:40 AM 5/13/2002 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Advice requested!<br><br>
I'm beginning to work on a 1914 dress, inspired by this photo:<br>
<a href="http://www.wonderland.com/~alice/sew/archives/1914_garden_dress/concept_big.html" eudora="autourl">http://www.wonderland.com/~alice/sew/archives/1914_garden_dress/concept_big.html</a><br><br>
I've been through most of my books looking for similar styles so
that<br>
I could draft my pattern, but the styles seem to be just a bit too early
or too late for that style of dress. </blockquote><br>
I've seen several tiered skirts dating from 1911 to 1914 (maybe 1915).
This is close to what you had in mind I think
<a href="http://marquise.de/1900/pics/1910/1912_4.shtml" eudora="autourl">http://marquise.de/1900/pics/1910/1912_4.shtml</a><br>
There was even a black lace one that just sold on ebay of the weekend
<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=2101366322" eudora="autourl">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=2101366322</a>.
The images were already taken down but perhaps you could contact the
seller for more information.<br><br>
It sounds like you're fine with pattern drafting; how are you with
draping? Personally I love VPLL and Attic Copies but I don't recommend
them to people who aren't really experienced with old patterns. 
<br><br>
If all you need is a visual concept of the pattern layout and are willing
to draft a pattern based off that, try
<a href="http://marquise.de/1900/schnitte/s1920.shtml" eudora="autourl">http://marquise.de/1900/schnitte/s1920.shtml</a>.&nbsp;
She has other patterns, you just need to barter to get copies of the some
of her vintage ones that she hasn't built graphic files for yet. You've
most likely read this article already
<a href="http://www.gbacg.org/teens.htm" eudora="autourl">http://www.gbacg.org/teens.htm</a>,
but maybe she knows of more pattern sources. Another suggestion is
perhaps there is something similar you can adapt from one of&nbsp; R.L.
Shep's books. These have been fabulously helpful for me.<br><br>
Personally, when it comes to these dresses, I start by making the
foundation / lining and then draping. If you're able to try that
approach, any of my above suggestions should work for you. I can also try
to answer more questions off the list, just don't count on me though.
Anyone here who knows me will tell you, I'm awful at keeping up with my
email despite my best intentions &gt;; (&nbsp; Speaking of which, i
finally brought my craftman links files to the campus to forward to
people - I just can't remember who needed them. **sighs**<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&nbsp;Does anyone have any
suggestions for<br>
commercial patterns or which books I could look into?&nbsp;&nbsp; I found
a few<br>
similar styles in La Mode Illustree from the Vintage Pattern 
Lending<br>
Library, but I dread having to get someone to translate the French for
me<br>
in order to sort through their pattern-overlay-tracing hell. <br>
(that's here http://www.vpll.org/library/lamode/lm301913/index.html
)<br><br>
any ideas?&nbsp; thanks!<br>
</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie,<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br>
</b></html>

--=====================_15437875==_.ALT--

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for black netting, louis heeled pumps
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:51:01 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Drat, Lacis doesn't have their bridal shoes online.  However:
http://lacis.com/bridal.html
I'm pretty sure I've seen court shoes with louis heels in the shop.

--Lee
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1914 dress patterns
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 16:13:53 -0400
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Heather,

You might want to check the email list "sewretro" at yahoogroups.  Those
people know a lot about vintage patterns.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 16:15:35 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Sun, 12 May 2002, Kate wrote:
> Not right now. They happened to be at an SCA event that I attended
> yesterday. He said that they're working on it, but don't have a set
> date as of now.
>
> They are supposed to be doing e-flyers though. I'll post when I get
> one.
>
> kate

I hope their new management is more 'with it' than their old management...
I really enjoyed being able to go to their old location in New Oxford to
shop in person, since they always had really neat stuff, but had bad
experiences with mail order.  Nobody seemed to be talking to anybody else,
so either no bill was sent with the fabric, or they didn't know I'd
already bought the fabric, or... (shrug)

-- Mara

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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Flat caps"
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 21:18:55 +0100
Status: RO

On 13 May 2002 at 20:13, leigh tartaglio wrote:

> > Does anyone know when the flat cap began being worn by
> > craftsmen/women in England?

Would this be the knitted "Monmouth" cap? I seem 
to remember Richard Rutt's history of knitting had 
something on them.



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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:24:19 -0700
Status: RO


>Yes, it was JC Penney.  I sure didn't think that Penney's would have been so
>fashion forward at the time.  Now how did you know that?

I posted too, and my post didn't show up.  I looked up Mary Quant in a book 
about 1960's costumes, and there was the info, along with the name of the 
contact person from JC Penny's.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 14 16:48:02 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: slightly OT -- embroidery thread
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 16:31:57 -0400
Status: RO

    The type of embroidery thread used back into Biblical times and ancient
China is a silk serica very much like the filament silk serica available
from Kreinik. Although Kreinik does ply three threads together, to achieve
the complete historical look one must unply the three strands, done easily
but most be done slowly, and then relax each thread by dampening your
fingers with water and running along the length of the thread. This will
help to release the kinks and prevent snarling.

    I use this exclusively on all my reproduction and restoration of
embroideries and recommend no other.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for black netting, louis heeled pumps
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:38:01 -0700
Status: RO


>Drat, Lacis doesn't have their bridal shoes online.  However:
>http://lacis.com/bridal.html
>I'm pretty sure I've seen court shoes with louis heels in the shop.

They do have cotton netting that could be dyed black.  But my antique 
beaded pieces are done on cotton scrim and paper, on silk chiffon, or on 
sewn-together cord or soutache, depending on the period and on the density 
of the beading.


Kayta
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slightly OT -- embroidery thread
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 21:47:24 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote: > 
> Dear list:
> 
> A friend of mine wants to know what kind of embroidery silk people used in
> the middle ages, preferably the 14th century. She assumes they did not use
> the kind we do, with the six twisted strands twisted together, but doesn't
> know where to look to find what they did use -- how many strands, what kind
> of twist, how thick, etc. Do any of the esteemed folks here know?

By no means AT ALL an expert or even particularly knowledgable in the 14th
century, I do believe that the embroideries I have seen used the same untwisted
silks that were used in the 17th century. They are plain silk 'threads' and you
can get them from Piper's silks:

http://www.pipers-silks.com/

I believe Bjarne used them, and they do look lovely.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 16:55:25 -0400
Status: RO

    You might try looking at some of the Attic Copies patterns, or the new
Edwardian tea gown from Folkwear. We carry both lines. URL in tagline.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 14 17:56:27 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] louis heel, peter fox
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 17:44:04 EDT
Status: RO


I've been looking for some dyeable louis heels for a while now myself so I 
did several web searches and sadly didnt really turn up anything.  I did find 
the peter fox website which has many shoes to die for (no pun intended...)  - 
lots were used in recent historical films - dracula, titanic etc.  And there 
was one pump with a louis heel in the sale section for a mere $110.00...

http://www.peterfox.com/7898QV.html

cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From: Liz / Cozit <cozit@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Flat caps"
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 18:26:29 -0400
Status: RO

I was thinking about the ones I usually see that are about 2 inch brims with a circular piece of material gathered into it, meaning to rest over the head, but neither totally flat over it, nor completely risen like a "Jiffy-Pop pan".

I know I've come across references to craftsmen and apprentices wearing them in the early to mid 1500s, but haven't been able to find pictures showing exactly what kind of flat cap.  I've also seen the later Elizabethian pictures... including women wearing a smaller version that was worn over a coif/snood/muffin hat/biggins type thing (as well as a picture or two with a "normal" sized such cap).

Basically, I'm trying to come up with a documentable idea for a hat that a journeywoman embroideress might wear... rather than "just" the biggins/coif/whatever.  *G* for the really hot *and* sunny days, we'll be "cheating" a bit and I *may* wear a low-crowned, plain straw hat pinned to the other (probably a muffin hat-type)... after all, for some reason or other I'm working in the country and the light outside is *so* much better than in the room I work in... and the air being so much cleaner than Oxford's...  (sigh... that's the pain of being as "authentic" as you can for a re-enactment group within a ren.
festival... and trying to fit a character type in that isn't *quite* right for the period, yet close...)    To have a hat to wear in cooler weather, and *possibly* be able to sheild the eyes at least a little... and hopefully look "better" than the straw one... is my ultimate goal.

Oh, and I'm not looking for anything nearly as big and floppy as the Landsknechts-type hats. (or at least, I hope I'm not....)

Thanks!
-Elisabeth



>
> From: leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
>
>
> Hi. When you say "flat-cap", which style are you referring to? I suspect
> that, like a number of fashionable items, the flatcap sort of evolved
> from earlier variants. Perhaps I can locate something from about the
> 1530s. I just saw an photo of a tapestry of the Battle of Pavia, showing
> a campfollower wearing a flat cap. The battle was in 1525 although I
> think the tapestry was made 5 years later. These were also Germans and
> Swiss in Italy, not English. I'll take a look in a few other sources I
> have for craftspeople of the period.  Mike T.
>
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know when the flat cap began being worn by
> > craftsmen/women in England?
> >

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From: Liz / Cozit <cozit@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Flat caps"
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 19:28:50 -0400
Status: RO

No, I'm thinking of the fabric caps/hats made with a round (flat or wavy, depending on the year(s) involved) brim about 2 inches wide, crown is a circular piece of material gathered to the brim (usually) that lies fairly, though not completely flat on the head when worn.

Sometimes trimmed with a ribbon, feather, brooch... sometimes not, depending on class, time period, etc.


Thanks,
-Elisabeth


> From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
>
>
>
> > > Does anyone know when the flat cap began being worn by
> > > craftsmen/women in England?
>
> Would this be the knitted "Monmouth" cap? I seem
> to remember Richard Rutt's history of knitting had
> something on them.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 14 19:41:06 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] louis heel, peter fox
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 15:03:16 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_30938937==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 05:44 PM 5/14/2002 -0400, you wrote:

>I've been looking for some dyeable louis heels for a while now myself so I
>did several web searches and sadly didnt really turn up anything.  I did find
>the peter fox website which has many shoes to die for (no pun intended...)  -
>lots were used in recent historical films - dracula, titanic etc.

Yep   they are pricey and to die for and often you can get them pre-dyed if 
you know to ask for it.

>And there
>was one pump with a louis heel in the sale section for a mere $110.00...
>
>http://www.peterfox.com/7898QV.html

That sale started 2 days ago and literally most of the good stuff is 
already gone -darn it all. What I've done instead in start looking into 
dance shoes where I can order color and heel combos since I'll be using 
these ... well.... for dancing >; )

>cheers,
>
>Loren Dearborn
>marionetta@aol.com

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

--=====================_30938937==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 05:44 PM 5/14/2002 -0400, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I've been looking for some dyeable
louis heels for a while now myself so I <br>
did several web searches and sadly didnt really turn up anything.&nbsp; I
did find <br>
the peter fox website which has many shoes to die for (no pun
intended...)&nbsp; - <br>
lots were used in recent historical films - dracula, titanic etc.&nbsp;
</blockquote><br>
Yep&nbsp;&nbsp; they are pricey and to die for and often you can get them
pre-dyed if you know to ask for it. <br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>And there <br>
was one pump with a louis heel in the sale section for a mere
$110.00...<br><br>
<a href="http://www.peterfox.com/7898QV.html" eudora="autourl">http://www.peterfox.com/7898QV.html</a></blockquote><br>
That sale started 2 days ago and literally most of the good stuff is
already gone -darn it all. What I've done instead in start looking into
dance shoes where I can order color and heel combos since I'll be using
these ... well.... for dancing &gt;; )<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>cheers,<br><br>
Loren Dearborn<br>
marionetta@aol.com</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br>
</b></html>

--=====================_30938937==_.ALT--

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA  costuming)
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 19:05:28 -0700
Status: RO


> Maggie, if you can remember any info about any refs showing
> spectacles, I would be interested. When you say "side-pieces", do you
> mean solid arms or the cording that we spoke about earlier? I would
> like to see early docs of solid earpieces, as I have never seen the
> like before in all of the illos I have seen. Is it possible that there
> was that old mistake of switching up 17th century for the 1700s?
> Thanks in advance, Mike T.

I just went through "A Spectacle of Spectacles", which shows all 
sorts of them (from about the 14th C on). I couldn't find any with 
sidepieces in it until later. The book is illustrated with period 
woodcuts, paintings, extant specs and reconstructions of extant 
specs.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 20:45:31 -0700
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0087_01C1FB88.49EB0E70
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Oh my god, these Peter Fox shoes are FABULOUS and just what I've been =
looking for -- except they're WAY too much money!

Does anyone have any alternative sources for vintage/retro-esque shoes?  =
I've looked at many dance shoe stores which don't tend to carry my size =
(11 medium).  Not looking for any particular style, just something 30's =
or 40's-ish!

- Kendra


------=_NextPart_000_0087_01C1FB88.49EB0E70
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Oh my god, these Peter Fox shoes are =
FABULOUS and=20
just what I've been looking for -- except they're WAY too much=20
money!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have any alternative =
sources for=20
vintage/retro-esque shoes?&nbsp; I've looked at many dance shoe stores =
which=20
don't tend to carry my size (11 medium).&nbsp; Not looking for any =
particular=20
style, just something 30's or 40's-ish!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Kendra</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1914 dress patterns
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 21:59:41 -0700 (PDT)
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> I've been through most of my books looking for similar styles so that
> I could draft my pattern, but the styles seem to be just a bit too early or
> too late for that style of dress.  Does anyone have any suggestions for
> commercial patterns or which books I could look into?   I found a few
> similar styles in La Mode Illustree from the Vintage Pattern Lending
> Library, but I dread having to get someone to translate the French for me
> in order to sort through their pattern-overlay-tracing hell. 
> (that's here http://www.vpll.org/library/lamode/lm301913/index.html )

Love your original dress illio.  Havent seen any pattern exactly like it. There
is a 1913 

I've translated a couple of the patterns for Jan in the past.  Same magazine
but 1890s patterns.  For the most part the assembly instructions rare go beyond
unhelpful prose such as: "trace each of our pieces following the outlines, sew
each according to the letters, this garment is best done in blue serge, a
ruffled inset (or keydesign feature of the garment) looks well".  There is
rarely any mention of sizing info in this magazine.

I've also made up about a dozen garments 1864-1913 from another magazine
"Journal des Demoiselles". One of my 1880s patterns has the instruction "Drape
the extremity on the person".  They didnt provide a pattern for the train, the
seamstress is on her own.  Sizing info was given for all but the very earliest
pattern. The marking "mannequin 46" seems to mean bustsize twice the number
given. Thus the 46 became a 92cm bust with the proper wearing ease.

If you have any specific questions please ask.


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Timeless Textiles
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 01:47:40 -0400
Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate" <ailithmac@yahoo.com>
> 
> --- Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> > Hey, speaking of TT, does Timeless have a new website or something?
> >  I only get a site with baby rugs on search, and my old links
> >don't work.
> > 
> > --Gillian
> 
> Not right now. They happened to be at an SCA event that I attended
> yesterday. He said that they're working on it, but don't have a set
> date as of now.

Aah...were you at Baron Wars V, the Attack of the Clouds? 
I was the troll.  I now have the plague...how depressingly period.

Jeanne

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Flat caps"
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:57:23 +0100
Status: RO

Jane Williams wrote:

>>>Would this be the knitted "Monmouth" cap? I seem 
to remember Richard Rutt's history of knitting had 
something on them.

Monmouth caps weren't flat, they were the rounded kind of woolly hat, I believe.


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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's My Line
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:55:57 +0000 (GMT)
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> I work through the night and at 4AM I take a break and watch the
> old game show, "What My Line."  I love watching the show for the
> wonderful evening wear worn by the panelists.  

My mother was on the british verison of the show - the Christmas 
show 1953 and was the only one to "beat the panel"(Robert Morley, 
Isobel Barnet and Patricia Medina).  She was also the only person 
to apper on the show who wan't in an evening dress.  She didn't 
own one, would have had no occasin to wear one and didn't see 
the point of buying, hiring or borrowing one for one brief TV 
appearance, so wore her best suit instead (though she had to keep 
the jacket fastened the whole time because they discovered that 
the close pattern on her blouse did strange things to the on-camera 
image...<G>)

Somewhere, I think I still have her winner certificate from the BBC, 
signed by all the panellists and the host of the show. 






Teddy
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:06:02 +0000 (GMT)
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> It must have been "mant" then... How lucky for you!

And, of course, Teddy can't type... that was intended to read it must 
have been MEANT....<sigh>

 



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nicole goes orange
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:04:30 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hey Nicole,

> Teddy, you know I'm the one for the subdued and rich colours like
> wedgewood blue, navy, black, dark red, etc etc

Oh yes.

> For once I didn't go for the proper silk (reasons see above) but
> for a higher quality viscose lining in a screaming burning
> matching warm orange! I must admit I am amazed how blooming good
> the dark green looks with the orange lining. It worked out fine and
> looks great, just have to do the hand stitching duties now.

It sounds like a lovely combination to me... I'm sure Danielle will 
agree too - green and orange is one of her favourites.

> But my goodness is this thing huge and heavy with its train. 

Think of it as a stylish way of keeping fit....<GGGG>

> I promise piccies if anyone wants it, but we're off to an event in
> Cumbria next weekend. 

Pictures!!!!!  Yes pelase!
 


Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: check out this partlet --LINK
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:15:20 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> (shuddering)  Teddy, where do you live, so I can make sure never to go
> to any sort of costume event you are attending.  :)  (Yes, this from
> the woman who admits to have sunglasses to match every color costume
> she wears.)
> 
> Kit
> (who is way to stressed to be serious)

London, England... I attend costume events over a wide area of the 
country though.....<Evil-bunny grin>

Perhaps you had better just bring your sunglasses along to any 
events you attend in England, just in case..<G>
 




Teddy
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's My Line
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 04:32:14 -0700
Status: RO

Teddy writes, in a message sent 11:55 AM 5/15/02 +0000:

> > I work through the night and at 4AM I take a break and watch the
> > old game show, "What My Line."  I love watching the show for the
> > wonderful evening wear worn by the panelists.
>
>My mother was on the british verison of the show - the Christmas
>show 1953 and was the only one to "beat the panel"(Robert Morley,
>Isobel Barnet and Patricia Medina).  She was also the only person
>to apper on the show who wan't in an evening dress.  She didn't
>own one, would have had no occasin to wear one and didn't see
>the point of buying, hiring or borrowing one for one brief TV
>appearance, so wore her best suit instead (though she had to keep
>the jacket fastened the whole time because they discovered that
>the close pattern on her blouse did strange things to the on-camera
>image...<G>)
>
>Somewhere, I think I still have her winner certificate from the BBC,
>signed by all the panellists and the host of the show.

What did she do that they couldn't guess?


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
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   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:43:20 +0000 (GMT)
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> >My mother was on the british verison of the show - the Christmas show
> >1953 and was the only one to "beat the panel"(Robert Morley, Isobel
> >Barnet and Patricia Medina).  

> What did she do that they couldn't guess?

Bottle corker.
 



Teddy
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 15 10:46:59 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] renaissance lace
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 20:50:38 +0200
Status: RO

Hi again.
Che, it looks that it isnt going to be anyway with the lace for the
renaissance baby.
Katia Johansen who emailed me about it, told me that they had found
laces they would use for the project.
But they have my name and adress now, in case there will be other
projects.
Anyway a little fame i have got because the danish lace guilds magazine
"Kniplebrevet" has a large article written by myself, and lots of photos
about how i use bobbin lace in costumes. The blue baroque dress, the
blue suit with gold lace, and the orange large panier dress. I am on the
front and back cover of the magazine, and i have 8 pages inside :-)
Then i am known by all lacemakers in Denmark.

Bjarne

Back to the embroidery :-) .-) :-)

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 15 10:56:58 2002
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:50:15 -0600
Status: RO

All right, you tease <g>....are you going to tell us where we can
acquire copies of that particular magazine? I'd love to see it, even if
I don't speak or read Danish!
--Sue

Bjarne wrote:
> 
> Hi again.
> Che, it looks that it isnt going to be anyway with the lace for the
> renaissance baby.
> Katia Johansen who emailed me about it, told me that they had found
> laces they would use for the project.
> But they have my name and adress now, in case there will be other
> projects.
> Anyway a little fame i have got because the danish lace guilds magazine
> "Kniplebrevet" has a large article written by myself, and lots of photos
> about how i use bobbin lace in costumes. The blue baroque dress, the
> blue suit with gold lace, and the orange large panier dress. I am on the
> front and back cover of the magazine, and i have 8 pages inside :-)
> Then i am known by all lacemakers in Denmark.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> Back to the embroidery :-) .-) :-)
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 20:46:18 +0200
Status: RO

I dont understand. It seems as if the indra server is very irregular
with the postings, is there any life out there?

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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       Let's just say they are being a bit slow.  I answered you original 
post just minutes after you sent it, but it took several days to show up on 
the list.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Let's just say they are being a bit slow. &nbsp;I answered you original post just minutes after you sent it, but it took several days to show up on the list.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 15 16:10:00 2002
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From: Truly Biggs <trulinor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lining fabric question
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:58:10 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

For maximum breathability - I like lining linen with more linen. Linen
molds to the body wonderfully and as you are obviously wise enough to know
- is blissfully breathable. Don't go for a heavy weight linen- go for a
high threadcount - with smaller holes. Linen cotton blends are a secod
choice - and they are available in nice medium weights at most Jo-ann's
these days ( at least here in Houston)

I get some linens from Fabrics-store.com, and I like the 5.5 weight for
such things.(has anyone noticed that their color choices have seemed
limited these days?)

Actually, now that I think about it - what kind of look are you wanting
this to have? A very structured look, or a somewhat
soft-natural-real-clothing kindof look? It is a bit dangerous to use a
too-sturdy lining or interlining, as it will be obvious from the outside
of the garment that that fabric was not intended to behave that way - and
you risk looking sort of - upholstered. My guess is that a denim weight is
a bit too heavy and a broadcloth is too light. Bless you for not
suggesting fusibles!

My opinion is just that.

Truly

I hope I haven't blathered on more than you were looking for : )


--- Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
> Help! I have a lightweight linen that I want to make into a doublet for
> my
> husband. However, the linen is way too lightweight. But I'm not sure how
> heavy a lining fabric or what kind I should use. I want to keep this as
> cool
> as possible for him to wear. Would a heavyweight linen or linen/cotten
> blend
> be enough? Or would I need something along the lines of a denim?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> Bristol,
> BRF FOF
> 
> So many books, so little time
> 
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lining fabric question
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 16:41:04 -0500
Status: RO

Thank you so much! He has an "upholstered" doublet already, and I wanted
this one to be a bit lighter weight and simpler, but wasn't sure if the
stiffness should be about the same. Mid-weight linen it is!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


----- Original Message -----
From: "Truly Biggs" <trulinor@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lining fabric question


> For maximum breathability - I like lining linen with more linen. Linen
> molds to the body wonderfully and as you are obviously wise enough to know
> - is blissfully breathable. Don't go for a heavy weight linen- go for a
> high threadcount - with smaller holes. Linen cotton blends are a secod
> choice - and they are available in nice medium weights at most Jo-ann's
> these days ( at least here in Houston)
>
> I get some linens from Fabrics-store.com, and I like the 5.5 weight for
> such things.(has anyone noticed that their color choices have seemed
> limited these days?)
>


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From: Saragrace Knauf<saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lining fabric question
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:00:03 -0700
Status: RO

> I get some linens from Fabrics-store.com, and I like the 5.5 weight for
> such things.(has anyone noticed that their color choices have seemed
> limited these days?)

Oh, I was so hoping that it was something wrong with their website or my computer.  I hope it is not an indication that they may be going out of business.  I love their stuff!!


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 05:33:02 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Ebay Book of Interest
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 05:20:35 -0400
Status: RO

It's not my time period but maybe some of you are interested in this book on
eBay:
NEW YORK 1714-76 Customs, Houses, Fashion etc  It has a nice Table of
Contents to View.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=868677717

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 06:26:42 2002
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 06:14:58 EDT
Status: RO

Thanks for those of you who have taken the time to help me; sorry to those 
who I have annoyed with my lack of knowledge. I have found a few more sites 
that are better suited to my needs and won't bother you folks 
anymore.Again,THANK YOU! to those that helped me.   Bonnie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 12:03:15 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 17:45:13 +0200
Status: RO

Hi
I have had an inquiry for a costume in the Lorna Doone movie produced by
BBC/A&E.
The red dress she is wearing when she is walking with the King.
I have never seen this movie, is there somewhere i could buy a copy of
it?


Thanks

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 12:20:08 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO


It is available on amazon.com for 24.95  (a 2001 version)

Katy

On Thu, 16 May 2002, Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi
>I have had an inquiry for a costume in the Lorna Doone movie produced by
>BBC/A&E.
>The red dress she is wearing when she is walking with the King.
>I have never seen this movie, is there somewhere i could buy a copy of
>it?
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Bjarne
>
>--
>
>
>Leif Drews
>Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>1635  København V
>
>Bjarne Drews
>Åboulevard 5,3.th
>1635 København V
>
>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
>My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 09:38:05 -0700
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Spring cleaning in one of those mixed blessings sort of events. In exchange 
for all that extra room in your costume & fabric storage areas, you end up 
with stacks of stuff that you can't bear to throw out but you know, in your 
heart of hearts, that you really need to get rid of.

So you guessed it, after 20 years of costuming, I have stacks of costumes, 
vintage shoes, trims, embroidery, and other items to get rid off. What's 
the better venue to rid myself of this rather large pile that is 
overwhelming my living room?  EBay has the advantage of being pretty 
immediate as far as response but it seems to have mood swings depending on 
who is buying what at the time. Getting a table at CC could be fun but I 
really don't want to haul the stuff down and then miss the classes I wanted 
to take too.

I know some of you are old hands at this. Anyone have any better suggestions?


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

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<html>
<br>
Spring cleaning in one of those mixed blessings sort of events. In
exchange for all that extra room in your costume &amp; fabric storage
areas, you end up with stacks of stuff that you can't bear to throw out
but you know, in your heart of hearts, that you really need to get rid
of.&nbsp; <br><br>
So you guessed it, after 20 years of costuming, I have stacks of
costumes, vintage shoes, trims, embroidery, and other items to get rid
off. What's the better venue to rid myself of this rather large pile that
is overwhelming my living room?&nbsp; EBay has the advantage of being
pretty immediate as far as response but it seems to have mood swings
depending on who is buying what at the time. Getting a table at CC could
be fun but I really don't want to haul the stuff down and then miss the
classes I wanted to take too. <br><br>
I know some of you are old hands at this. Anyone have any better
suggestions?<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br>
</b></html>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 13:05:50 2002
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In a message dated 5/15/02 4:01:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 
writes:


> My mother was on the british verison of the show - the Christmas 
> show 1953 and was the only one to "beat the panel"(Robert Morley, 
> Isobel Barnet and Patricia Medina).  She was also the only person 
> to apper on the show who wan't in an evening dress.  She didn't 
> own one, would have had no occasin to wear one and didn't see 
> the point of buying, hiring or borrowing one for one brief TV 
> appearance, so wore her best suit instead (though she had to keep 
> the jacket fastened the whole time because they discovered that 
> the close pattern on her blouse did strange things to the on-camera 
> image...<G>)

Greetings all...

I was just wondering if anyone had seen the episode with Angela Lansbury?  Or 
if you knew when it would be coming on again?  I need to get a copy of it for 
my files.

Please contact me privately, thanks!

Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/15/02 4:01:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">My mother was on the british verison of the show - the Christmas 
<BR>show 1953 and was the only one to "beat the panel"(Robert Morley, 
<BR>Isobel Barnet and Patricia Medina). &nbsp;She was also the only person 
<BR>to apper on the show who wan't in an evening dress. &nbsp;She didn't 
<BR>own one, would have had no occasin to wear one and didn't see 
<BR>the point of buying, hiring or borrowing one for one brief TV 
<BR>appearance, so wore her best suit instead (though she had to keep 
<BR>the jacket fastened the whole time because they discovered that 
<BR>the close pattern on her blouse did strange things to the on-camera 
<BR>image...&lt;G&gt;)</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Greetings all...
<BR>
<BR>I was just wondering if anyone had seen the episode with Angela Lansbury? &nbsp;Or if you knew when it would be coming on again? &nbsp;I need to get a copy of it for my files.
<BR>
<BR>Please contact me privately, thanks!
<BR>
<BR>Kit</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 13:47:42 2002
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's My Line
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 13:37:38 -0400
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Kit,

I saw it but it has been a few months ago.  Presently the run is near the
end of the series around 1967.  Do you know what year she was on.  I am sure
they will start the series over in the early 50s.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Kit,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I saw it but it has been a few months ago.&nbsp; Presently the run =
is near=20
the end of the series around 1967.&nbsp; Do you know what year she was =
on.&nbsp;=20
I am sure they will start the series over in the early 50s.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px">&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Louis heel, peter fox
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 11:09:13 -0700
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--=====================_5344515==_.ALT
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At 08:45 PM 5/14/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Oh my god, these Peter Fox shoes are FABULOUS and just what I've been 
>looking for -- except they're WAY too much money!
>
>Does anyone have any alternative sources for vintage/retro-esque 
>shoes?  I've looked at many dance shoe stores which don't tend to carry my 
>size (11 medium).  Not looking for any particular style, just something 
>30's or 40's-ish!
>
>- Kendra

I found these this morning http://www.flamenco-world.com/flamenco/coral.htm 
for some alternatives to the ubiquitous capezio character shoe. The shoe 
comes in leather or suede and you can select from a gazillion colors. The 
#5 heel without nails I think makes a great shoe. If only they had a satin 
option in the # 6, # 11, or # 12.


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

--=====================_5344515==_.ALT
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<html>
At 08:45 PM 5/14/2002 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial" size=2>Oh my
god, these Peter Fox shoes are FABULOUS and just what I've been looking
for -- except they're WAY too much money!</font><br>
&nbsp;<br>
<font face="arial" size=2>Does anyone have any alternative sources for
vintage/retro-esque shoes?&nbsp; I've looked at many dance shoe stores
which don't tend to carry my size (11 medium).&nbsp; Not looking for any
particular style, just something 30's or 40's-ish!</font><br>
&nbsp;<br>
<font face="arial" size=2>- Kendra</font></blockquote><br>
I found these this morning
<a href="http://www.flamenco-world.com/flamenco/coral.htm" eudora="autourl">http://www.flamenco-world.com/flamenco/coral.htm</a>
for some alternatives to the ubiquitous capezio character shoe. The shoe comes in leather or suede and you can select from a gazillion colors. The #5 heel without nails I think makes a great shoe. If only they had a satin option in the # 6, # 11, or # 12.<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br>
</b></html>

--=====================_5344515==_.ALT--

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From: kitsune242@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA Â costuming)
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:17:48 -0400
Status: RO

Could you tell me anything more about the book?  Where I could find a copy of who wrote it?

Kit
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 21:02:01 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

AARRGGHHH there is NOTHING even remotely authentic for the period it is
supposed to be abut this costume. Pure fantasy if you ask me (which you don't,
but hey, did you really believe I wouldn't jump on and comment unsolicited?
:-)))

Bjarne, if you like making some fantasy idea of something supposedly 17th
cventurish, then have fun, otherwise.... *winks*

Nicole

--- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi
> I have had an inquiry for a costume in the Lorna Doone movie produced by
> BBC/A&E.
> The red dress she is wearing when she is walking with the King.
> I have never seen this movie, is there somewhere i could buy a copy of
> it?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> --
> 
> 
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
> 
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
> 
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
> 
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> 
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 17:29:36 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 23:18:00 +0200
Status: RO

Hi.
I have no idea whatsoever how this movie is. But i had a costumer question about
this red dress. Wont say who it is, but it is somebody who deals with arranging
balls for reenactors in USA.
Perhaps i should tell her about the non accurateness of it!

Bjarne

N Kipar wrote:

> AARRGGHHH there is NOTHING even remotely authentic for the period it is
> supposed to be abut this costume. Pure fantasy if you ask me (which you don't,
> but hey, did you really believe I wouldn't jump on and comment unsolicited?
> :-)))
>
> Bjarne, if you like making some fantasy idea of something supposedly 17th
> cventurish, then have fun, otherwise.... *winks*
>
> Nicole
>
> --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi
> > I have had an inquiry for a costume in the Lorna Doone movie produced by
> > BBC/A&E.
> > The red dress she is wearing when she is walking with the King.
> > I have never seen this movie, is there somewhere i could buy a copy of
> > it?
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > Leif Drews
> > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> > 1635  København V
> >
> > Bjarne Drews
> > Åboulevard 5,3.th
> > 1635 København V
> >
> > tlf. 35 37 13 70
> >
> > My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> >
> > Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 17:41:47 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 22:29:50 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Ah, Bjarne, I think the same person contacted me, because they wanted info on
available Barqoue patterns, and mentioned that they were specifically looking
to recreate the lorna doone dress and I answered them the same, that there is
no way in hell this is any other period than the 20th century fantasy. ;-)))

Nicole

 --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi.
> I have no idea whatsoever how this movie is. But i had a costumer question
> about
> this red dress. Wont say who it is, but it is somebody who deals with
> arranging
> balls for reenactors in USA.
> Perhaps i should tell her about the non accurateness of it!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> N Kipar wrote:
> 
> > AARRGGHHH there is NOTHING even remotely authentic for the period it is
> > supposed to be abut this costume. Pure fantasy if you ask me (which you
> don't,
> > but hey, did you really believe I wouldn't jump on and comment unsolicited?
> > :-)))
> >
> > Bjarne, if you like making some fantasy idea of something supposedly 17th
> > cventurish, then have fun, otherwise.... *winks*
> >
> > Nicole
> >
> > --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi
> > > I have had an inquiry for a costume in the Lorna Doone movie produced by
> > > BBC/A&E.
> > > The red dress she is wearing when she is walking with the King.
> > > I have never seen this movie, is there somewhere i could buy a copy of
> > > it?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Bjarne
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > >
> > > Leif Drews
> > > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> > > 1635  København V
> > >
> > > Bjarne Drews
> > > Åboulevard 5,3.th
> > > 1635 København V
> > >
> > > tlf. 35 37 13 70
> > >
> > > My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> > >
> > > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> > >
> > > Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > =====
> > Nicole Kipar M.A.
> > Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> > Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> > URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> > Email: marquis@kipar.org
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> > from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> > http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> --
> 
> 
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
> 
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
> 
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
> 
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> 
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Everything you'll ever need on one web page
from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
http://uk.my.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 20:52:38 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Art destroyed
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:41:01 +1200
Status: RO

"A hoard of stolen art worth more than $1.4bn (£960m) has been destroyed -
by the mother of a French art thief."

When this was announced on news today, they flashed up a pic by Cranach..
Sibylla von Cleves in her bridal attire as von Boehn called it.:
http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sammlung/sibylla_von_cl
eve_big.html
But the amount of work destroyed..... for the full article:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/entertainment/arts/newsid_1990000/1990836.s
tm

I am lost for words, but "stupid bloody...." does keep attaching itself to
any sentance I come up with to describe the woman who did it.

michaela
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com
from which Sibylla seems to have disappeared also
http://recital.tripod.com/costume/



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 22:52:39 2002
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 19:46:38 -0700
Status: RO

To Michaela-

Well, this is certainly dreadful stuff. I know it pales in comparison to
the suffering of humans in India, Afganistan, and other places,  but,
darn it, these art pieces represent what humans can create so
beautifully, despite our other dominant nasty, destructive streaks.  

That woman (the thief's mother) must be slightly insane to have felt
justified in stooping to the kind of behaviour enacted by the Taliban
against those beautifully serene Buddhas in the cliffs. What kind of
people are these that destroy other people's unique creations? Jeez,
where does this all end?

Thanks for letting me vent so-off topic, 

Theresa Eacker

michaela wrote:
> 
> "A hoard of stolen art worth more than $1.4bn (£960m) has been destroyed -
> by the mother of a French art thief."
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 23:39:31 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Art destroyed
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 20:13:31 -0700
Status: RO

I wonder if the report was accurate about her motivation?  They don't say
she destroyed all those wonderful things to protect her son, as I originally
supposed, but because she was *mad* at him!  Like: the fool got caught so
I'm going to destroy all "his" artwork (that he worked so hard to acquire).
Good lord!  Well, I guess this will teach him a lesson, hunh.

It's so, so awful!  We can argue, as we sometimes do, about whether vintage
clothing should be preserved or worn, but this is on a whole different
scale.  As you say, not on a par with many horrible things in the world, but
wicked, nevertheless.

A much saddened
MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Theresa Eacker
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 7:47 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Art destroyed
>
>
> To Michaela-
>
> Well, this is certainly dreadful stuff. I know it pales in comparison to
> the suffering of humans in India, Afganistan, and other places,  but,
> darn it, these art pieces represent what humans can create so
> beautifully, despite our other dominant nasty, destructive streaks.
>
> That woman (the thief's mother) must be slightly insane to have felt
> justified in stooping to the kind of behaviour enacted by the Taliban
> against those beautifully serene Buddhas in the cliffs. What kind of
> people are these that destroy other people's unique creations? Jeez,
> where does this all end?
>
> Thanks for letting me vent so-off topic,
>
> Theresa Eacker
>
> michaela wrote:
> >
> > "A hoard of stolen art worth more than $1.4bn (£960m) has been
> destroyed -
> > by the mother of a French art thief."
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 23:42:37 2002
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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] EBay vs. costume college merchant?
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 22:31:04 -0500
Status: RO

Well.....if you are part of an organization that has events, get a booth
there to sell them. If you have a friend that goes to conventions, ask if
you can sell your items there. Ebay is your best bet because there is no
transport of items back and forth furthering any wear and tear to them that
will lessen their value.

Of course, you could ask the members of this list that are interested to
email you privately for the price list and description of the items to see
what we would be willing to pay you for them. :)

Sincerely,
Franchesca
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gwyn Carnegie" <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 11:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] EBay vs. costume college merchant?


>
> Spring cleaning in one of those mixed blessings sort of events. In
exchange
> for all that extra room in your costume & fabric storage areas, you end up
> with stacks of stuff that you can't bear to throw out but you know, in
your
> heart of hearts, that you really need to get rid of.
>
> So you guessed it, after 20 years of costuming, I have stacks of costumes,
> vintage shoes, trims, embroidery, and other items to get rid off. What's
> the better venue to rid myself of this rather large pile that is
> overwhelming my living room?  EBay has the advantage of being pretty
> immediate as far as response but it seems to have mood swings depending on
> who is buying what at the time. Getting a table at CC could be fun but I
> really don't want to haul the stuff down and then miss the classes I
wanted
> to take too.
>
> I know some of you are old hands at this. Anyone have any better
suggestions?
>
>
> Gwyn Carnegie
> University of California, Davis
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 16 23:59:36 2002
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:48:44 +1200
Status: RO

<< Thanks for letting me vent so-off topic,

Theresa Eacker>>

I hope people didn't think my original post was off topic, as the Cranach is
one of my fav pieces of documentation- being a real woman and all. It is
extrememely disturbing as we have now lost all those irreplaceable pieces of
history. Bronzes, silverware.. paintings... poof. Gone because of this
woman.

I don't mention the theif himself as he actually *kept* the work.. mind you
he stored them with her... he must have known what she was capable of...
yes?

Here in NZ we had someone deface Still on Top by Tissot (which is a great
piece of documentation for 1870s striped bustles) but that at least was
politically motivated. Still wanted to do nasty things to him.... but this
was just spite or something equally domestic.. and it's lost.

michaela


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] EBay vs. costume college merchant?
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 02:12:12 -0400
Status: RO

Why not use the H-Costume Swap and Sell site that Danielle created
specifically for this purpose?  That way your friends at H-Costume get
first crack at all your goodies. If you have anything left over, then
put it on eBay.

Sorry, I don't remember what the URL is for the site.  Does anyone else?

Linda

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gwyn Carnegie" <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 11:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] EBay vs. costume college merchant?


>
> Spring cleaning in one of those mixed blessings sort of events. In
exchange
> for all that extra room in your costume & fabric storage areas, you
end up
> with stacks of stuff that you can't bear to throw out but you know, in
your
> heart of hearts, that you really need to get rid of.
>
> So you guessed it, after 20 years of costuming, I have stacks of
costumes,
> vintage shoes, trims, embroidery, and other items to get rid off.
What's
> the better venue to rid myself of this rather large pile that is
> overwhelming my living room?  EBay has the advantage of being pretty
> immediate as far as response but it seems to have mood swings
depending on
> who is buying what at the time. Getting a table at CC could be fun but
I
> really don't want to haul the stuff down and then miss the classes I
wanted
> to take too.
>
> I know some of you are old hands at this. Anyone have any better
suggestions?
>
>
> Gwyn Carnegie
> University of California, Davis
>




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Subject: [h-cost] apropos art destroyed
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 07:48:31 +0200
Status: RO

Hi.
Apropos Lucas Cranach, there is an exhibition with his art at the Museum
of Fine Arts in Copenhagen. I have not seen it yeat, but i definately
must se it.
Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Art destroyed
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 04:38:32 -0400
Status: RO

on 5/16/02 11:13 PM, Maggie Secara at maggiros@adelphia.net wrote:

> I wonder if the report was accurate about her motivation?  They don't say
> she destroyed all those wonderful things to protect her son, as I originally
> supposed, but because she was *mad* at him!  Like: the fool got caught so
> I'm going to destroy all "his" artwork (that he worked so hard to acquire).
> Good lord!  Well, I guess this will teach him a lesson, hunh.
> 
> It's so, so awful!  We can argue, as we sometimes do, about whether vintage
> clothing should be preserved or worn, but this is on a whole different
> scale.  As you say, not on a par with many horrible things in the world, but
> wicked, nevertheless.
> 
> A much saddened
> MaggiRos
It is awful. Yes, people are doing horrible things to each other all over
the world, but...we all look to art for relief, escape and pleasure in what
mankind can create. Art doesn't serve much in the way of practical use, but
it helps lighten our souls a bit after the everyday grind.
This creature destroyed irreplacable bits of history, things that have
survived all kinds of trials and tribulations only to end up in pieces at
her hands. 
Its like kicking a puppy; no reason, just plain spite.
Laurie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 17 11:14:51 2002
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From: Barbara Wolff <bjwolff@facstaff.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:01:42 -0600
Status: RO

>Greetings from a usual-lurker...


Speaking of :Lorna Doone" versions, anyone happen to see the TCM 
silent TV screening of Maurice (father of Jacques "Cat People") 
Tournier's 1921 version? I was struck immediately w/the costumes, 
which I doubt were authentic at all...also the coaches (ditto). Any 
info from someone who knows something about any aspect of this 
welcome! Thanks ~

Barbara in Madison, Wis.

>Hi.
>I have no idea whatsoever how this movie is. But i had a costumer 
>question about
>this red dress. Wont say who it is, but it is somebody who deals 
>with arranging
>balls for reenactors in USA.
>Perhaps i should tell her about the non accurateness of it!
>
>Bjarne
>
>N Kipar wrote:
>
>>  AARRGGHHH there is NOTHING even remotely authentic for the period it is
>>  supposed to be abut this costume. Pure fantasy if you ask me 
>>(which you don't,
>>  but hey, did you really believe I wouldn't jump on and comment unsolicited?
>>  :-)))
>>
>>  Bjarne, if you like making some fantasy idea of something supposedly 17th
>>  cventurish, then have fun, otherwise.... *winks*
>>
>>  Nicole
>>
>>  --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi
>>  > I have had an inquiry for a costume in the Lorna Doone movie produced by
>>  > BBC/A&E.
>>  > The red dress she is wearing when she is walking with the King.
>>  > I have never seen this movie, is there somewhere i could buy a copy of
>>  > it?
>>  >
>>  >
>>  > Thanks
>>  >
>>  > Bjarne
>>  >
>>  > --
>>  >
>>  >
>>  > Leif Drews
>>  > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>>  > 1635  København V
>>  >
>>  > Bjarne Drews
>>  > Åboulevard 5,3.th
>>  > 1635 København V
>>  >
>>  > tlf. 35 37 13 70
>>  >
>>  > My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>  >
>>  > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>>  >
>>  > Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>>  >
>>  >
>>  > _______________________________________________
>>  > h-costume mailing list
>>  > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>  > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>  =====
>>  Nicole Kipar M.A.
>>  Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>>  Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>>  URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>>  Email: marquis@kipar.org
>>
>>  __________________________________________________
>>  Do You Yahoo!?
>>  Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>>  from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>>  http://uk.my.yahoo.com
>>  _______________________________________________
>>  h-costume mailing list
>>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>--
>
>
>Leif Drews
>Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>1635  København V
>
>Bjarne Drews
>Åboulevard 5,3.th
>1635 København V
>
>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
>My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


-- 
Barbara Wolff
University Communications
University of Wisconsin-Madison
(608) 262-8292
bjwolff@facstaff.wisc.edu
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 17 11:50:48 2002
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From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Art destroyed
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 08:32:45 -0700
Status: RO

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At 12:41 PM 5/17/2002 +1200, you wrote:
>"A hoard of stolen art worth more than $1.4bn (=A3960m) has been destroyed=
 -
>by the mother of a French art thief."
>
>When this was announced on news today, they flashed up a pic by Cranach..
>Sibylla von Cleves in her bridal attire as von Boehn called it.:
>http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sammlung/sibylla_von_c=
l
>eve_big.html

**lets out a not inconsiderate string of expletives**  Some people's=20
children- I tell you

I'm pretty sure Maggie and few other folks will be as upset about the lost=
=20
of this one painting as I am >; (

I'm away from the office but does anyone remember off hand where the later=
=20
portraits of Sybil as Electress are currently? I hope they are safe.  And=20
was the wedding portrait of John Fredrick displayed along side Sybil's at=20
the time?


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis


--=====================_2190640==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
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<html>
At 12:41 PM 5/17/2002 +1200, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite>&quot;A hoard of stolen art worth
more than $1.4bn (=A3960m) has been destroyed -<br>
by the mother of a French art thief.&quot;<br><br>
When this was announced on news today, they flashed up a pic by
Cranach..<br>
Sibylla von Cleves in her bridal attire as von Boehn called it.:<br>
<a=
 href=3D"http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sammlung/sibyl=
la_von_cl"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sam=
mlung/sibylla_von_cl</a><br>
eve_big.html</blockquote><br>
**lets out a not inconsiderate string of expletives**&nbsp; Some people's
children- I tell you<br><br>
I'm pretty sure Maggie and few other folks will be as upset about the
lost of this one painting as I am &gt;; (<br><br>
I'm away from the office but does anyone remember off hand where the
later portraits of Sybil as Electress are currently? I hope they are
safe.&nbsp; And was the wedding portrait of John Fredrick displayed along
side Sybil's at the time? <br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color=3D"#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br><br>
</b></html>

--=====================_2190640==_.ALT--

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:47:33 -0400
Status: RO


Yes, she said she was mad at her son and that's why she cut up the paintings
and stuffed them down her garbage disposal . . . and dumped musical
instruments in the river . . . etc. etc. etc.

To me, it sounds more like she is trying to get out of trouble! "I did it in
a fit of passion because I was so mad" is a better excuse than "I destroyed
priceless artworks so there would be no evidence against my son."

Gail Finke


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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 13:19:36 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Fri, 17 May 2002, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> To me, it sounds more like she is trying to get out of trouble! "I did
> it in a fit of passion because I was so mad" is a better excuse than
> "I destroyed priceless artworks so there would be no evidence against
> my son."

According to news accounts, she was afraid that as the mother of an
international thief, she would lose her work permit and thus her job
(working over the border, as is common in her town), and that she would
not be able to find another job at her age. I can see there being a mix of
anger and a wild hope that without evidence, there would be no case. But
since he was already arrested and had confessed, she surely didn't have
much hope of the lack of evidence being much help.

I think it was the account at the Art Loss Register site that noted that
when the son was arrested and spilled the truth, the officials asked
whether there was a chance his girlfriend/accomplice (still at large) or
his mother (whose home held the artworks) would destroy the works. The son
laughed and replied oh no, they knew how much the art was worth! I would
assume he was as stunned as anyone that the paintings were destroyed.

At least she dumped the artifacts intact somewhere, and many have been
recovered. But ripping up the paintings and shoving them down the garbage
disposal... there is no returning from that.

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:36:36 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_12128625==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


I've been to the site but no one seems to use it. I've had a few people 
contact me and it sounds like ebay is the way to go.

Thanks for the insight and opinions everyone, as always >; )

At 02:12 AM 5/17/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Why not use the H-Costume Swap and Sell site that Danielle created
>specifically for this purpose?  That way your friends at H-Costume get
>first crack at all your goodies. If you have anything left over, then
>put it on eBay.
>
>Sorry, I don't remember what the URL is for the site.  Does anyone else?
>
>Linda

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

--=====================_12128625==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<br>
I've been to the site but no one seems to use it. I've had a few people
contact me and it sounds like ebay is the way to go.<br><br>
Thanks for the insight and opinions everyone, as always &gt;; )<br><br>
At 02:12 AM 5/17/2002 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Why not use the H-Costume Swap and
Sell site that Danielle created<br>
specifically for this purpose?&nbsp; That way your friends at H-Costume
get<br>
first crack at all your goodies. If you have anything left over,
then<br>
put it on eBay.<br><br>
Sorry, I don't remember what the URL is for the site.&nbsp; Does anyone
else?<br><br>
Linda</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br>
</b></html>
--=====================_12128625==_.ALT--

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:54:03 -0600
Status: RO

<I've been to the site but no one seems to use it.>

So not using it makes it a self-fulfilling prophecy, no?

Mary Denise Smith
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 17 15:09:33 2002
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 14:08:40 -0500 (CDT)
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On Fri, 17 May 2002, Gwyn Carnegie wrote:

> >Why not use the H-Costume Swap and Sell site that Danielle created
> >specifically for this purpose?  That way your friends at H-Costume get
> >first crack at all your goodies. If you have anything left over, then
> >put it on eBay.

> I've been to the site but no one seems to use it. I've had a few people 
> contact me and it sounds like ebay is the way to go.

Don't let the low quantity of messages on the site throw you. When someone
posts a new item, those of us who are signed up get a notice about it. If
we're interested, we'll respond directly to you.

I've sold nearly every item I've listed on the site, and fast.

What's important is not the number of messages, but the number of people
on the list. Danielle, do you know how many of us there are?

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:09:10 -0400
Status: RO

One other thing to consider is that the Swap & Sell is free to you, but
eBay charges seller's fees.
I think the S&S site is a great idea, and if more people would use it,
then maybe more people would use it. Get it? <g>
Wherever you decide to list your stuff, be sure to let the list know.
I'm probably going to have to restrain myself, but looking is free,
right? It's always fun to see inside other people's closets.

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Gwyn Carnegie
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 12:37 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] EBay vs. costume college merchant?


I've been to the site but no one seems to use it. I've had a few people
contact me and it sounds like ebay is the way to go.

Thanks for the insight and opinions everyone, as always >; )

 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-c swap and save, was: EBay vs. costume college
  merchant?
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:52:11 -0700
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Could someone please post the address? I've tried searching through the 
archives for "swap and sell" AND I've tried google.. with no luck. :/

thanks!
kris


> > >Why not use the H-Costume Swap and Sell site that Danielle created
> > >specifically for this purpose?  That way your friends at H-Costume get
> > >first crack at all your goodies. If you have anything left over, then
> > >put it on eBay.
>
> > I've been to the site but no one seems to use it. I've had a few people
> > contact me and it sounds like ebay is the way to go.

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 21:44:34 +0200
Status: RO

Hi,
I just browsed the silk trading company and found a lovely silk ottoman
in 100 % silk. It is tea coloured, i searched under honey coloured
fabrics and found it this way.
It looks gorgeous.
But is this ottoman silk like a ribbed silk? is it two heavy for a
jacket, waistcoat and trousers?
I am still looking for silk for the new suit i want to make.

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: [h-cost] vintage wedding book
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:48:00 -0400
Status: RO


At the library today I picked up a new book called "Your Vintage Wedding" by
Nancy Eaton. It's a lovely little book about how to hold a vintage
(1910s-1950s) wedding, with much of it devoted to clothes. Lots of period
wedding photos are included, as are a bunch of modern reproductions. Some of
the reproductions are by Theresa LaQuey, who designs some of the Simplicity
vintage patterns. They are all lovely -- especially her own wedding dress,
which is based on a dress Ginger Rogers wore in "Swing Time." The
bridesmaids' and flower girl's dresses were inspired by other Ginger Rogers
gowns!

Anyway, it's well worth checking out. There are lots of great hints about
how to work with seamstresses, how to commission a dress, how to shop for
vintage clothes, how to pick original or reproduction patterns, etc. There's
also a nice guide to what tuxedos or suits men should wear to match --
although it assumes they will wear modern ones. Enjoy!

Gail Finke




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Art Destroyed
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 20:06:55 +0000
Status: RO


Would someone mind reposting the link to this story.  I've tried to bring 
the story up, but the link did not work.

Thanks!
:) jessica

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 16:18:13 EDT
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--part1_1aa.2690062.2a16bf85_boundary
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Jessica

The same thing happened to me intially, because the first portion of the link 
was a "hyperlink" and was incomplete with the balance of the url below it but 
not connected to the hyperlinked portion. I then cut and pasted the link in 
it's entirety, and it worked. However, I posted it for you below. The first 
is the link to the destroyed Cranach painting, the second the link to the 
story.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
W. Shakespeare

In a message dated 5/17/2002 1:08:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
jessicastier@hotmail.com writes:


> Would someone mind reposting the link to this story.  I've tried to bring 
> the story up, but the link did not work.
> 
> Thanks!
> :) jessica
> 
> 

When this was announced on news today, they flashed up a pic by Cranach..
Sibylla von Cleves in her bridal attire as von Boehn called it.:
http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sammlung/sibylla_von_cl
eve_big.html

But the amount of work destroyed..... for the full article:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/entertainment/arts/newsid_1990000/1990836.s
tm


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Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Jessica<BR>
<BR>
The same thing happened to me intially, because the first portion of the link was a "hyperlink" and was incomplete with the balance of the url below it but not connected to the hyperlinked portion. I then cut and pasted the link in it's entirety, and it worked. However, I posted it for you below. The first is the link to the destroyed Cranach painting, the second the link to the story.<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,<BR>
 and all is mended,<BR>
That you have but slumbered here,<BR>
 while these visions did appear."<BR>
W. Shakespeare<BR>
<BR>
In a message dated 5/17/2002 1:08:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jessicastier@hotmail.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Would someone mind reposting the link to this story.&nbsp; I've tried to bring <BR>
the story up, but the link did not work.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks!<BR>
:) jessica<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
When this was announced on news today, they flashed up a pic by Cranach..<BR>
Sibylla von Cleves in her bridal attire as von Boehn called it.:<BR>
http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sammlung/sibylla_von_cl<BR>
eve_big.html<BR>
<BR>
But the amount of work destroyed..... for the full article:<BR>
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/entertainment/arts/newsid_1990000/1990836.s<BR>
tm<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_1aa.2690062.2a16bf85_boundary--
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 17 18:13:37 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-c swap and save, was: EBay vs. costume college merchant?
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 17:56:54 -0400
Status: RO

Is that a seperate list to be signed up for?  And can someone please post the URL.

Thanks,
Kit
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Subject: [h-cost] h-c swap and save sign up info
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:30:37 -0700
Status: RO

Here's the original invitation I saved from December...

Agnes
> ---------
> From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 19:46:33 -0500
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] You want to sell your fabric?
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> Since we've been discussing a list for selling for swapping
> fabric, I thought I would start the ball rolling by setting
> up this "community."  I hope you join.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
> 
> Your invitation to join:
> "HCostume fabric sell or swap..."
> 
> TO JOIN, CLICK HERE:
> http://www.communityzero.com/hcostume/index.cfm?key=251-KNE
> 
> After clicking on the above link you will see the community's
> welcome page.  Click the 'JOIN THIS COMMUNITY' link found on
> the center of the welcome page.
> 
> Your invitation key is: 251-KNE
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> If you cannot click on the link, cut and paste the Web address
> into the "Address" area of your Web browser.  Note that the
> invitation key is NOT your user name.  You must select your own
> user name and password when creating a new account.
> 
> This is a private and interactive website for the group.
> Registration is free and your privacy will be respected. You
> will not receive e-mail SPAM after registration.
> 
> If you experience problems using the above link, please ensure
> it was not split into two lines.  If so, cut and paste the full
> Web address into the Web browser's "Address" area.
> 
> This invitation was sent by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg.
> 
> CommunityZero
> by Ramius Corporation
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> Build your own communities for free today!
> http://www.communityzero.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> 

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 17:39:39 -0400
Status: RO

Thanks Agnes!  All that info was stored in the old computer, so I don't
have easy access to it anymore. I was hoping that somebody had it saved!

Linda

Here's the original invitation I saved from December...

Agnes



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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:04:04 -0400
Status: RO

Hi all.   I'm new to the list. Just signed up today.   I specialize in 1300 
to 1700 clothing from Northern and Central Europe,  but I am a great 
generalist, and I love to research.  I've taken a look at the archives - 
alot there!  I look forward to being a part of this, and seeing the 
community in action.

Mari Stewart
Ithaca, NY


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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:10:53 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. Not the right forum for this discussion, but I will be glad to discuss
Renaissance anaesthesia with anyone. I am not aware, however, of any ribs being
removed for cosmetic or any other than emergency reasons in that period. If
someone could direct me to some documentable resources on the subject, I would be
grateful. Mike T.



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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:24:06 -0400
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Hi. Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd has a few photos of paintings and
other illos of ladies with muffs dated from the 1580s. I vaguely remember
seeing a painting from around the 1530s, perhaps a Cranach or someone
similar, but don't quote me. Cheers, Mike T.



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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:31:02 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. Bjarne, that is quite a coup, getting orders from a national institution
like that. Congratulations. Perhaps they need to clone you, so that you
could teach the young Bjarne all of your skills, and you could get
everything done!  ;)   Mike T.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 17 20:28:34 2002
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:56:23 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. One of my doublets is interlined with hemp canvas of about a medium
stiffness and a somewhat open weave. I find it very comfortable and breathable
in the summer. I also have a pair of sailor's breeches of the same cloth, which
are quite comfortable. Good Luck with your project.  Mike T.


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 17 20:43:29 2002
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 20:29:41 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. Ya know, it's funny how a discussion makes a 360. The flat cap that I saw
in the Pavia tapestry wasn't a huge Landsknecht confection, but a sort of a felted
mildly dished shape held on over a cap by some sort of tie that passed through two
holes on the sides and went over the top of the "cap". This discussion, however, put
me in mind of some research that I am doing for my wife. She is an avid knitter
(among other things). I have been searching for pictures of hats that "might" be
knitted, from the 15th Cent. on, for her. I noticed that the Swiss in the Schilling
Chronicles (1460s) are wearing fuzzy bowler shaped hats, and that some are sort of
flattening out on the top. These hats look similar to the ones that we saw in the
media over a few months being worn by Afghan troops, not quite as flat on the top. I
am conjecturing that this is the prototypical shape for what became the flat cap,
both in it's knitted and cut varieties, and was a predecessor to the Monmouth cap,
in at least one of it's variants. My wife has knitted prototypes of all of these
caps, and all of the shapes are quite well within the abilities of folks in those
periods to do. Once felted and blocked, it's amazing what knitted wool will do. If
you can find an image of the tapestry (they are referred to as Brussels tapestries),
look for the soldier with the basket on his back (another one of my research
subjects), and look at the woman standing (fleeing, actually) to his left. I could
possibly scan it, but I can't guarantee the image.  Mike T.



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From: leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 20:44:26 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. Robin, that was probably the most succinct yet illuminating
explanation of the situation that I have heard in a long time. I have never
learned to "cut to the chase", so let me state my admiration for your ability
to do so... Mike T.



> I have been trying to avoid this conversation, but I did see this comment
> quoted:

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] my list of amusements
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:05:47 -0700
Status: RO

I've never even heard of ribs being removed for ladies in any part of the
Renaissance. As far as I know, that's a Victorian costume legend.  For one
thing, the 16th century silhouette doesn't require a wasp waist. The corset
only reshapes the natural oval of a waist into a circle.

MaggiRos
(way behind on the mail already)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of leigh tartaglio
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 4:11 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] my list of amusements
>
>
> Hi. Not the right forum for this discussion, but I will be glad to discuss
> Renaissance anaesthesia with anyone. I am not aware, however, of
> any ribs being
> removed for cosmetic or any other than emergency reasons in that
> period. If
> someone could direct me to some documentable resources on the
> subject, I would be
> grateful. Mike T.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:07:35 -0700
Status: RO

That's a broad bit of time to be a specialist in, Mari, but what the heck,
you're in good company here. Welcome home!


MaggiRos
~The Elizabethan World is at http://ren.dm.net

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Mari Stewart
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 4:04 PM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] new to list
>
>
> Hi all.   I'm new to the list. Just signed up today.   I
> specialize in 1300
> to 1700 clothing from Northern and Central Europe,  but I am a great
> generalist, and I love to research.  I've taken a look at the archives -
> alot there!  I look forward to being a part of this, and seeing the
> community in action.
>
> Mari Stewart
> Ithaca, NY
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:07:35 -0700
Status: RO

That's a broad bit of time to be a specialist in, Mari, but what the heck,
you're in good company here. Welcome home!


MaggiRos
~The Elizabethan World is at http://ren.dm.net

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Mari Stewart
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 4:04 PM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] new to list
>
>
> Hi all.   I'm new to the list. Just signed up today.   I
> specialize in 1300
> to 1700 clothing from Northern and Central Europe,  but I am a great
> generalist, and I love to research.  I've taken a look at the archives -
> alot there!  I look forward to being a part of this, and seeing the
> community in action.
>
> Mari Stewart
> Ithaca, NY
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 17 22:32:58 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA  costuming)
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:17:50 -0700
Status: RO

Well damn. I would have sworn... On the other hand, perhaps the book I was
looking at was less than reliable.  I'm finding the contrary evidence sort
of overwhelming, here. :(

Unfortunately, the book whose title and author completely escape me, of
course, belongs to someone else who says it's in a box in the garage, or
storage, or something. She used to be on this list for a while, but hasn't
piped up on this topic, so I presume she's gone away again. Guess I'll have
to dig out an addy for her.

MaggiRos



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of kat@grendal.rain.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 7:05 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: names/pearls/velvet/glasses (WAS:level of SCA
> costuming)
>
>
>
> > Maggie, if you can remember any info about any refs showing
> > spectacles, I would be interested. When you say "side-pieces", do you
> > mean solid arms or the cording that we spoke about earlier? I would
> > like to see early docs of solid earpieces, as I have never seen the
> > like before in all of the illos I have seen. Is it possible that there
> > was that old mistake of switching up 17th century for the 1700s?
> > Thanks in advance, Mike T.
>
> I just went through "A Spectacle of Spectacles", which shows all
> sorts of them (from about the 14th C on). I couldn't find any with
> sidepieces in it until later. The book is illustrated with period
> woodcuts, paintings, extant specs and reconstructions of extant
> specs.
>
>
> Kat
>
> Kat(June Russell)
> kat@grendal.rain.com
> Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:01:05 -0700
Status: RO

Is there a pic of this dress somewhere?  I only saw a little of the movie,
and can't remember anything good or bad about the clothes.  (I want to put
it in the over-my-dead-body file :)

MaggiRos

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of N Kipar
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 2:30 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
>
>
> Ah, Bjarne, I think the same person contacted me, because they
> wanted info on
> available Barqoue patterns, and mentioned that they were
> specifically looking
> to recreate the lorna doone dress and I answered them the same,
> that there is
> no way in hell this is any other period than the 20th century
> fantasy. ;-)))
>
> Nicole
>
>  --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi.
> > I have no idea whatsoever how this movie is. But i had a
> costumer question
> > about
> > this red dress. Wont say who it is, but it is somebody who deals with
> > arranging
> > balls for reenactors in USA.
> > Perhaps i should tell her about the non accurateness of it!
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > N Kipar wrote:
> >
> > > AARRGGHHH there is NOTHING even remotely authentic for the
> period it is
> > > supposed to be abut this costume. Pure fantasy if you ask me
> (which you
> > don't,
> > > but hey, did you really believe I wouldn't jump on and
> comment unsolicited?
> > > :-)))
> > >
> > > Bjarne, if you like making some fantasy idea of something
> supposedly 17th
> > > cventurish, then have fun, otherwise.... *winks*
> > >
> > > Nicole
> > >
> > > --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi
> > > > I have had an inquiry for a costume in the Lorna Doone
> movie produced by
> > > > BBC/A&E.
> > > > The red dress she is wearing when she is walking with the King.
> > > > I have never seen this movie, is there somewhere i could
> buy a copy of
> > > > it?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Bjarne
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Leif Drews
> > > > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> > > > 1635  København V
> > > >
> > > > Bjarne Drews
> > > > Åboulevard 5,3.th
> > > > 1635 København V
> > > >
> > > > tlf. 35 37 13 70
> > > >
> > > > My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> > > >
> > > > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> > > >
> > > > Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > h-costume mailing list
> > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Nicole Kipar M.A.
> > > Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> > > Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> > > URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> > > Email: marquis@kipar.org
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> > > from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> > > http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > Leif Drews
> > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> > 1635  København V
> >
> > Bjarne Drews
> > Åboulevard 5,3.th
> > 1635 København V
> >
> > tlf. 35 37 13 70
> >
> > My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> >
> > Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 00:51:24 2002
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Stars Wars Costume Review
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 00:40:59 -0400
Status: RO

I just got back from seeing the latest Stars Wars.  So here is my review on
the costumes:

I found the Queen/Senator Amilida's costumes toned done in this episode over
last episode.  They weren't as elaborate.  Two of her gowns in the beginning
have a Tudor farthingale look to me.  When she is wearing the second one,
her lady in waiting also had the same A-bell shaped skirt.   The costume
with the crocheted snoods, had a medieval feel.. very whimsical.

Two things in the film really impressed me... the large variety of cloaks,
so many beautiful fabrics.  I swear, some of the cloaks were off of Liz
Gerd's kinsale cloak pattern.  I am requesting Liz to see the film to
confirm it.   I'll get back with her reaction. I can really see these being
fashionable in the upcoming fall/winter.

#2... and I don't want to give away to much....... the Queen's veil was
stunningly beautiful.  So 1920s with the close skull and the pearls.
Bjarne, you would have died over the lace in it. The gown was beautiful but
they didn't show a close up of it.

Now I do have to tell you on opening night here, there were a group of fans
in their storm troopers costumes... complete with the mic to change their
voices.  My son says they are a union type group of them all over the
country that go to showings and activities of Stars Wars.  They stated their
costumes cost over a $1,000.  Tonight a little boy saw the film with us
dress as a young Annikan.  He was so cute.

You know I figured out after watching the show why my 19 y.o. son #3 is so
fascinated with swords.  He is part of that groups of kids that grew up on
Star Wars.  He just fell in love with all the light sabers duels tonight...
there are many.  He came out talking non-stop about them.  The light saber
duels were just like fencing with more acrobatics.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 01:28:19 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stars Wars Costume Review
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:17:45 +1200
Status: RO

> I just got back from seeing the latest Stars Wars.  So here is my review
on
> the costumes:

I should first of all direct people to a *great* page to look and review her
costumes. I've been drooling over some, and have just bought some white
cotton lycra to make the top of Padme's white battle costume.
http://www.padawansguide.com/padme.shtml

> I found the Queen/Senator Amilida's costumes toned done in this episode
over
> last episode.  They weren't as elaborate.  Two of her gowns in the
beginning
> have a Tudor farthingale look to me.  When she is wearing the second one,
> her lady in waiting also had the same A-bell shaped skirt.   The costume
> with the crocheted snoods, had a medieval feel.. very whimsical.

Ahh the gold picnic gown... another "I need to recreate." but probably in
white as I happen to have nice fabrics but in white;)

> Two things in the film really impressed me... the large variety of cloaks,
> so many beautiful fabrics.  I swear, some of the cloaks were off of Liz
> Gerd's kinsale cloak pattern.  I am requesting Liz to see the film to
> confirm it.   I'll get back with her reaction. I can really see these
being
> fashionable in the upcoming fall/winter.

Oh yes. I'm looking at making the white cloak of Padme's white battle
costume too. I just need some nice fabric for it...

I'm going to see it next week. I missed the opening which might well have
been a good thing.. too many people.

mivchaela


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 01:33:21 2002
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:22:46 +1200
Status: RO

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<<When this was announced on news today, they flashed up a pic by =
Cranach..
Sibylla von Cleves in her bridal attire as von Boehn called it.:
http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sammlung/sibylla_von=
_cl
eve_big.html>>

<<**lets out a not inconsiderate string of expletives**  Some people's =
children- I tell you

I'm pretty sure Maggie and few other folks will be as upset about the =
lost of this one painting as I am >; (>>

I was stunned when she was the first painting on screen. I first saw her =
in Max von Boehn's Die Mode and was stunned.. having only til that point =
seen English "tudor" portraits, so she was like a fairy tale princess =
with her hair down and soft dress. I feel a real sense of loss over this =
particular painting. I was hoping to see her in real life. And now I =
won't.
This was an early 16thC painting for goodness sake. There was also an =
ealy portrait by Corneille...van  H- I wasn't familiar with the last =
part of his name. But it looked familiar in style to Corneille de Lyon:
http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/corneille_de_lyon.html so I'm not =
sure. And it was od a french woman too.. so maybe he is know by another =
name?

<<I'm away from the office but does anyone remember off hand where the =
later portraits of Sybil as Electress are currently? I hope they are =
safe.  And was the wedding portrait of John Fredrick displayed along =
side Sybil's at the time? >>

Unfortunatly they did not list all the paintings (though another was a =
Brugel!) nor even mention Sibylla by name. I'm hoping I'll find a more =
indepth report of this sometime soon.

michaela




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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>
<DIV>&lt;&lt;When this was announced on news today, they flashed up a =
pic by=20
Cranach..<BR>Sibylla von Cleves in her bridal attire as von Boehn called =

it.:<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sammlung/sib=
ylla_von_cl"=20
eudora=3D"autourl">http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/s=
ammlung/sibylla_von_cl</A><BR>eve_big.html&gt;&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&lt;&lt;**lets out a not inconsiderate string of expletives**&nbsp; =
Some=20
people's children- I tell you<BR><BR>I'm pretty sure Maggie and few =
other folks=20
will be as upset about the lost of this one painting as I am &gt;;=20
(&gt;&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was stunned when she was the first =
painting on=20
screen. I first saw her in Max von Boehn's Die Mode and was stunned.. =
having=20
only til that point seen English "tudor" portraits, so she was like a =
fairy tale=20
princess with her hair down and soft dress. I feel a real sense of loss =
over=20
this particular painting. I was hoping to see her in real life. And now =
I=20
won't.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This was an early 16thC painting for =
goodness sake.=20
There was also an ealy portrait by Corneille...van&nbsp; H- I wasn't =
familiar=20
with the last part of his name. But it looked familiar in style to =
Corneille de=20
Lyon:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/corneille_de_lyon.html">http=
://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/corneille_de_lyon.html</A>&nbsp;so=20
I'm not sure. And it was od a french woman too.. so maybe he is know by =
another=20
name?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><BR>&lt;&lt;I'm away from the =
office but=20
does anyone remember off hand where the later portraits of Sybil as =
Electress=20
are currently? I hope they are safe.&nbsp; And was the wedding portrait =
of John=20
Fredrick displayed along side Sybil's at the time? &gt;&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Unfortunatly they did not list all the =
paintings=20
(though another was a Brugel!) nor even mention Sibylla by name. I'm =
hoping I'll=20
find a more indepth report of this sometime soon.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>michaela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 04:26:06 -0400
Status: RO

Ok.  Let's try this again.  I'm not sure the last message
got through.  So, any of you who wish to join, just go
through this link.  That way you don't have to wait for me to
approve you...(which can take awhile - I'm a grad student in
final cruch time...)

Cheers,
Danielle

	
Your invitation to join:
"HCostume fabric sell or swap..."

TO JOIN, CLICK HERE:
http://www.communityzero.com/hcostume/index.cfm?key=471-QLQ

After clicking on the above link you will see the community's 
welcome page.  Click the 'JOIN THIS COMMUNITY' link found on 
the center of the welcome page.

Your invitation key is: 471-QLQ

----------------------------------------------------------------

If you cannot click on the link, cut and paste the Web address 
into the "Address" area of your Web browser.  Note that the 
invitation key is NOT your user name.  You must select your own
user name and password when creating a new account.

This is a private and interactive website for the group. 
Registration is free and your privacy will be respected. You 
will not receive e-mail SPAM after registration.

If you experience problems using the above link, please ensure
it was not split into two lines.  If so, cut and paste the full
Web address into the Web browser's "Address" area.

This invitation was sent by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg.

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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 03:27:04 -0500
Status: RO


>Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 04:26:06 -0400
>Ok.  Let's try this again.  I'm not sure the last message
>got through.  So, any of you who wish to join, just go
>through this link.  That way you don't have to wait for me to
>approve you...(which can take awhile - I'm a grad student in
>final cruch time...)
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>
>Your invitation to join:
>"HCostume fabric sell or swap..."
>
>TO JOIN, CLICK HERE:
>http://www.communityzero.com/hcostume/index.cfm?key=508-IQX
>
>After clicking on the above link you will see the community's
>welcome page.  Click the 'JOIN THIS COMMUNITY' link found on
>the center of the welcome page.
>
>Your invitation key is: 508-IQX
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>If you cannot click on the link, cut and paste the Web address
>into the "Address" area of your Web browser.  Note that the
>invitation key is NOT your user name.  You must select your own
>user name and password when creating a new account.
>
>This is a private and interactive website for the group.
>Registration is free and your privacy will be respected. You
>will not receive e-mail SPAM after registration.
>
>If you experience problems using the above link, please ensure
>it was not split into two lines.  If so, cut and paste the full
>Web address into the Web browser's "Address" area.
>
>This invitation was sent by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg.
>
>CommunityZero
>by Ramius Corporation
>------------------------------------------------------------------
>Build your own communities for free today!
>http://www.communityzero.com

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric sell or
  swap..Re: [h-cost] h-c swap and save, was
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 03:32:59 -0500
Status: RO

At 02:08 PM 5/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>On Fri, 17 May 2002, Gwyn Carnegie wrote:
> > >Why not use the H-Costume Swap and Sell site that Danielle created
> > >specifically for this purpose?  That way your friends at H-Costume get
> > >first crack at all your goodies. If you have anything left over, then
> > >put it on eBay.
>
> > I've been to the site but no one seems to use it. I've had a few people
> > contact me and it sounds like ebay is the way to go.
>
>Don't let the low quantity of messages on the site throw you. When someone
>posts a new item, those of us who are signed up get a notice about it. If
>we're interested, we'll respond directly to you.
>
>I've sold nearly every item I've listed on the site, and fast.
>
>What's important is not the number of messages, but the number of people
>on the list. Danielle, do you know how many of us there are?
>
>--Robin

Amazingly enough Robin, I'm looking at my H-Costume email for the first 
time since K'zoo and caught this. : )  We have 130 members on HCostume 
fabric sell or swap...  Oh, and I do advise people to use the invitation to 
sign-up...it simplifies things enormously.  However, I do ask that those of 
you who do sign up that way, fill in all the info requested.  This 
community results in business transactions and signing-up as "unidentified" 
doesn't show much faith in your fellows.  At the will of this list - anyone 
who signs up without an invitation and doesn't provide at least a name & 
email address are declined.  I've just noticed that there are a few people 
already signed up through the invites who haven't given us their name 
etc.  So, what do all of you think?  Should their membership be revoked if 
they don't update their info?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 05:03:24 2002
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 04:51:03 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_99.26a34190.2a176ff7_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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In a message dated 5/18/02 12:41:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
penny@costumegallery.com writes:


> Now I do have to tell you on opening night here, there were a group of fans
> in their storm troopers costumes... complete with the mic to change their
> voices.  My son says they are a union type group of them all over the
> country that go to showings and activities of Stars Wars.  They stated 
> their
> costumes cost over a $1,000. 


According to this article in the Washington Post, anyone with a uniform is 
technically  in violation of Lucasfilm copyright, but he evidently doesn't 
mind, as they seem to be  providing him with tons of free publicity:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A8162-2002May12.html

I got my paper doll book of the Senator's outfits a couple of weeks ago.

Ann Wass

--part1_99.26a34190.2a176ff7_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 5/18/02 12:41:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time, penny@costumegallery.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Now I do have to tell you on opening night here, there were a group of fans<BR>
in their storm troopers costumes... complete with the mic to change their<BR>
voices.&nbsp; My son says they are a union type group of them all over the<BR>
country that go to showings and activities of Stars Wars.&nbsp; They stated their<BR>
costumes cost over a $1,000. </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
According to this article in the Washington Post, anyone with a uniform is technically&nbsp; in violation of Lucasfilm copyright, but he evidently doesn't mind, as they seem to be&nbsp; providing him with tons of free publicity:<BR>
<BR>
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A8162-2002May12.html<BR>
<BR>
I got my paper doll book of the Senator's outfits a couple of weeks ago.<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 08:53:31 2002
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 08:43:58 -0400
Status: RO

hi all...

I've worked out a pattern (by some standards) for knitting the Flemish cap 
that is often see in Bruegel's peasant scenes.  It is very similar to the 
cap that is photographed in Rutt's.  At first I wasn't sure how it would 
work...  but the fulling really brought out some of the more subtle 
features of the shape.

If someone is interested in it,  I'll be happy to post it.

Mari

oh,  and i should have said my main area of interest is 1300 to 1700,  not 
my specialization.   Don't give me a keyboard after 8:00pm... I'm a pumpkin.

Mari Stewart , Cornell University, Ithaca NY

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 09:14:29 2002
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Subject: Re: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric sell or  swap..Re: [h-cost] h-c swap and save, was
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 14:05:27 +0100
Status: RO

Danielle,

I'm not sure how much info I originally gave when signing up for the
community, and since I agree with you that we should be open with each
other I'd like to check my entry:-)
Can you tell me how to do this?

apologies for the ignorance...
Stevie


>
> Amazingly enough Robin, I'm looking at my H-Costume email for the
first
> time since K'zoo and caught this. : )  We have 130 members on
HCostume
> fabric sell or swap...  Oh, and I do advise people to use the
invitation to
> sign-up...it simplifies things enormously.  However, I do ask that
those of
> you who do sign up that way, fill in all the info requested.  This
> community results in business transactions and signing-up as
"unidentified"
> doesn't show much faith in your fellows.  At the will of this list -
anyone
> who signs up without an invitation and doesn't provide at least a
name &
> email address are declined.  I've just noticed that there are a few
people
> already signed up through the invites who haven't given us their
name
> etc.  So, what do all of you think?  Should their membership be
revoked if
> they don't update their info?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 11:27:19 2002
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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] HCostume fabric sell or swap...
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Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 16:09:48 -0400
Status: RO

Well, it seems that everyone has forgotten about the
H-costume fabric sell or swap.  So, I thought I would send a
remind out to all of you that it is still there...  For those
of you who are new, it is group set up for list members to
sell or trade unwanted fabric or costumes to other list
members.  The group doesn't appear to have been used for
awhile which is why people aren't getting notifications...

Anyone have any fabric they need to part with?  Anyone,
Bueller, Bueller...  ; )

Cheers,
Danielle

	
Your invitation to join:
"HCostume fabric sell or swap..."

TO JOIN, CLICK HERE:
http://www.communityzero.com/hcostume/index.cfm?key=698-NGO

After clicking on the above link you will see the community's 
welcome page.  Click the 'JOIN THIS COMMUNITY' link found on 
the center of the welcome page.

Your invitation key is: 698-NGO

----------------------------------------------------------------

If you cannot click on the link, cut and paste the Web address 
into the "Address" area of your Web browser.  Note that the 
invitation key is NOT your user name.  You must select your own
user name and password when creating a new account.

This is a private and interactive website for the group. 
Registration is free and your privacy will be respected. You 
will not receive e-mail SPAM after registration.

If you experience problems using the above link, please ensure
it was not split into two lines.  If so, cut and paste the full
Web address into the Web browser's "Address" area.

This invitation was sent by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 15:11:27 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitted caps
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 11:59:48 -0700
Status: RO


>I've worked out a pattern (by some standards) for knitting the Flemish cap 
>that is often see in Bruegel's peasant scenes.  It is very similar to the 
>cap that is photographed in Rutt's.  At first I wasn't sure how it would 
>work...  but the fulling really brought out some of the more subtle 
>features of the shape.
>
>If someone is interested in it,  I'll be happy to post it.

Gosh, I'd like to see it.


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 15:45:10 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Art destroyed
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 12:34:08 -0700
Status: RO

I was blown away when they showed the Sybilla.  That was the model for my 
very first German dress!  (Mine was in moss green with dusty blue brocade 
bands.  What a horrible loss!


MaggiRos


>From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Art destroyed
>Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:22:46 +1200
>
><<When this was announced on news today, they flashed up a pic by Cranach..
>Sibylla von Cleves in her bridal attire as von Boehn called it.:
>http://www.graphikmuseum-picasso-muenster.de/noflash/sammlung/sibylla_von_cl
>eve_big.html>>
>
><<**lets out a not inconsiderate string of expletives**  Some people's 
>children- I tell you
>
>I'm pretty sure Maggie and few other folks will be as upset about the lost 
>of this one painting as I am >; (>>
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 15:48:08 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric sell or swap..Re:
 [h-cost] h-c swap and save, was
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 12:37:07 -0700
Status: RO

I think that, as tyou say, and as we agreed once before, the swap n sell is 
a closed list. It's only us.  People should provide their names.


MaggiRos


>From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric sell or  
>swap..Re: [h-cost] h-c swap and save, was
>Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 03:32:59 -0500
>
>At 02:08 PM 5/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>>On Fri, 17 May 2002, Gwyn Carnegie wrote:
>> > >Why not use the H-Costume Swap and Sell site that Danielle created
>> > >specifically for this purpose?  That way your friends at H-Costume get
>> > >first crack at all your goodies. If you have anything left over, then
>> > >put it on eBay.
>>
>> > I've been to the site but no one seems to use it. I've had a few people
>> > contact me and it sounds like ebay is the way to go.
>>
>>Don't let the low quantity of messages on the site throw you. When someone
>>posts a new item, those of us who are signed up get a notice about it. If
>>we're interested, we'll respond directly to you.
>>
>>I've sold nearly every item I've listed on the site, and fast.
>>
>>What's important is not the number of messages, but the number of people
>>on the list. Danielle, do you know how many of us there are?
>>
>>--Robin
>
>Amazingly enough Robin, I'm looking at my H-Costume email for the first
>time since K'zoo and caught this. : )  We have 130 members on HCostume
>fabric sell or swap...  Oh, and I do advise people to use the invitation to
>sign-up...it simplifies things enormously.  However, I do ask that those of
>you who do sign up that way, fill in all the info requested.  This
>community results in business transactions and signing-up as "unidentified"
>doesn't show much faith in your fellows.  At the will of this list - anyone
>who signs up without an invitation and doesn't provide at least a name &
>email address are declined.  I've just noticed that there are a few people
>already signed up through the invites who haven't given us their name
>etc.  So, what do all of you think?  Should their membership be revoked if
>they don't update their info?
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 17:52:27 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: parasols
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:40:50 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/10/02 11:19:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< I'm not sure why parasols went so far out of 
 fashion but I'm sure the ugliness of some of the modern styles has a lot to 
 do with it. Finding decent parasols or even frames to recover is a journey 
 unto it's self. We have good reproductions of shoes, eyeglasses, gloves, 
 hats, jewelry, even walking sticks but I'm not impressed with what I've 
 seen in the parasol department. And when you do find a good one, it's hella 
 scary expensive. Someone needs to fix that - just tell me who to write to >; 
) >>

Ah, try eBay!  I got an antique parasol --guessing 1920, but not my period-- 
with a rosewood handle wrapped in sterling silver art deco vines for $20.  
(What years are art deco?)  The fabric needs to be replaced, which is why it 
was so cheap, but ya pretty much have to use new fabric if you ever intend on 
open an antique parasol and actually using it anyway.  I'm covering it with 
the same fabric as my gown for my wedding.  This was a just-in-case-it-rains 
thing, but I've decided to keep it for gothdom..

--Gillian
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat May 18 18:15:16 2002
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 23:06:23 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,

I bought some chintz cotton which, due to less than ideal storage
conditions, is badly creased. OK, so I know I can't wash it, or steam
iron it, so I anticipate a lengthy session with a warm iron...
Once I've persuaded the fabric to see things my way I shall make it up
in a pattern which justifies all the work, and the dry-cleaning bills
of the future. The question is what?
I've got five metres 160cm wide, and I hear the siren sound of
leg-of-mutton sleeves calling me. Perhaps h-cost could come up with a
much better idea or three?

best wishes
Stevie

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: parasols
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 15:12:12 -0700
Status: RO

What period are you doing?

You can still get 1950's umbrellas, with metal rib tips, at thrift 
stores.  1890's walking parasols can be made from these if you recover them 
and extend the handles.  Other period full-size parasols can be made the 
same way.  For carriage parasols, look for wedding parasols or child 
parasols, at thrift stores.  They're the right size to start with, and you 
can make new folding handles.

I got a large size doll parasol, about 12 inches across.  It's all 
bamboo.  I added metal rib tips from an umbrella from a thrift store, made 
a cover from a border-print scarf, and will be adding a folding handle.  I 
will paint the wood shiny black before sewing the cover on, so the end of 
the handle could be Fimo/Sculpey over a wood stick.

I got a Dremmel lathe so I could make, among other things, bone parasol rib 
tips and bone crochet hooks.  Usable bone can come from a co-operative 
butcher - tell them it's for a craft project - and you can have them rough 
cut it into pieces for you.  Bone dust is toxic, so leave the grease in 
till you're finished, to catch the dust for you.  If you don't want to work 
in real bone, get white plastic and seriously tea-dye it.  (Dylon hot will 
dye plastic buttons.)

Molded Fimo/Sculpey should also work for rib tips.  Make a 2-piece mold of 
a rib tip from an existing parasol/umbrella.

><< I'm not sure why parasols went so far out of
>  fashion but I'm sure the ugliness of some of the modern styles has a lot to
>  do with it. Finding decent parasols or even frames to recover is a journey
>  unto it's self. We have good reproductions of shoes, eyeglasses, gloves,
>  hats, jewelry, even walking sticks but I'm not impressed with what I've
>  seen in the parasol department. And when you do find a good one, it's hella
>  scary expensive. Someone needs to fix that - just tell me who to write 
> to >;
>) >>
>
>Ah, try eBay!  I got an antique parasol --guessing 1920, but not my period--
>with a rosewood handle wrapped in sterling silver art deco vines for $20.
>(What years are art deco?)  The fabric needs to be replaced, which is why it
>was so cheap, but ya pretty much have to use new fabric if you ever intend on
>open an antique parasol and actually using it anyway.  I'm covering it with
>the same fabric as my gown for my wedding.  This was a just-in-case-it-rains
>thing, but I've decided to keep it for gothdom.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chintz cotton- period and pattern suggestions, please
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 15:15:09 -0700
Status: RO


>I bought some chintz cotton which, due to less than ideal storage
>conditions, is badly creased. OK, so I know I can't wash it, or steam
>iron it, so I anticipate a lengthy session with a warm iron...
>Once I've persuaded the fabric to see things my way I shall make it up
>in a pattern which justifies all the work, and the dry-cleaning bills
>of the future. The question is what?
>I've got five metres 160cm wide, and I hear the siren sound of
>leg-of-mutton sleeves calling me. Perhaps h-cost could come up with a
>much better idea or three?

Does it look Georgian?  (Do you do Georgian?)


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] knitted cap guide
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 18:38:45 -0400
Status: RO

Hi all...

I hope this will work for folks,  as you can tell I this isn't so much an 
exact pattern as a set of guidelines.   But hey,  that's how I learned to 
knit...  To see a photo of this cap you can look in Rutt's book "A History 
of Handknitting"...  pg. 59.  An even better idea of what these guidelines 
produce is the bagpiper's cap in Bruegel's "Peasant Wedding".  And one of 
the servers in Bruegel's "Wedding Feast" is also wearing one, iirc.

Materials I used were the same as reported in Rutt - a 2 ply yarn, worsted, 
and of course a set of double ended knitting needles.

Now as to the question of guage...   uhm.   I just go til it fits,  If I'm 
knitting tight on small needles thats alot of stitches,  and if I'm 
knitting loose on big needles,  that's not so many.    However, the density 
of the knit you create,  can greatly affect the fulling process,  so for 
the caps I tend to knit tight on small needles.

To make this cap I used the same method of construction as was used in the 
original in Rutt's book. From the top down,  and really it seems the only 
sensible way to do it.

I started from the center of the crown, by casting 8 stitches on to  two 
needles.   I connected the ends to form a "circle"  then doubled the number 
of stitches to 16  by using a knit into the front and back of each existing 
stitch. (A  note: this method for beginning is a personal 
preference,  I  find this adaptation on a Middle Eastern start  easier to 
work than 8 stitches spread across 4 needles.)

At this point I divided the 16 stitches evenly onto 4 needles.  From here I 
worked in the round  from the crown and increased every other round by 8 
stitches.  When I had a "circle" that was as large as the top of my head  I 
stopped increasing.  I knit straight down until I had the distance I 
desired,  from the top of my head to my eyebrows. At this point I bound off 
1/4 of the stitches to form the face opening.   To keep this edge close to 
the brow when it is worn I decreased by 5 stitches evenly spaced along the 
bound edge.  The method of the decreases used is the same as described in 
Rutt.  (15)

To form the back and sides of the cap  I continued the stockinette stitch 
with alternating rows of knit and purl.  To experiment with some fitting, 
as seen in the cap from the Museum of London, I placed  some decreases in 
the back of the cap to draw it closer to the back of the head and 
neck.   There was no pattern to the decreases.

Once the desired length of the cap was reached in the back,  from the top 
of the head to the nape of the neck, the bottom edge was bound off, but 30 
stitches on each side of the bottom edge were reserved for the 
earflaps.   Work the flaps one at a time.  The earflaps were worked 
straight for half their length, then 1 stitch on each side of the earflap 
was decreased every knit row - for a total of 2 stitches decreased on every 
knit row.

When the earflaps reached 4 stitches in width, the edge was bound 
off.  Sufficient yarn was left to knit a cord at the bottom of the flap.

Lastly,  the cap was washed, fulled til the yarn drew together even more 
tightly, and blocked to the final shape.  It gives you a pretty warm 
cap...    haven't worn it in a downpour yet.

Of course,  using a non-worsted yarn, bigger needles, and a looser knit you 
can create a denser heavier cap in the fulling process,  as long as you 
remember to provide the extra room in the knitting that you will lose in 
the fulling.

Hope someone likes,   and if you do try it,  please  let me know if the 
guidelines helped.

Mari



Mari Stewart,  Cornell University, Ithaca, NY

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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 18:46:33 EDT
Status: RO

Teddy writes:

<< It could be, purple satin with green and orange tartan guards 
 > around the hem, edged in gold bobin lace laid over scarlet bands,  >>

Scarey!  (And this from a goth...)

LOL,
Gillian
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 19:15:15 EDT
Status: RO


What shocks me is this woman's ability to miss the big picture.  She only 
thought she was hurting her son, but she hurt all of us by robbing us of our 
history.  Talk about being the center of your own universe...  Or maybe I'm 
giving her the benefit of the doubt?  Maybe she did realize it, and just 
didn't care?  RIFTS calls that morality "Diabolical."

--Gillian, who is very upset now
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Art destroyed
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 19:43:37 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

> I was blown away when they showed the Sybilla.  That was the model for my
> very first German dress!  (Mine was in moss green with dusty blue brocade
> bands.  What a horrible loss!

I did the Sybilla dress once, too, way back early in my costuming history
(got my AoA in the SCA wearing that dress). Mine was also green--an emerald
green, with the bands in a copper brocade. It's the only German I ever did,
although I've always wanted to go back and do another one (especially now
that I know a few more things).

BTW, she's in this year's Medieval Woman calendar...

Susan

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Stars Wars Costume Review
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 19:54:08 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/18/02 4:24:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< #2... and I don't want to give away to much....... the Queen's veil was
 stunningly beautiful.  >>

Someone told me that style is called a mantilla.  Is that right?

<<storm troopers costumes... complete with the mic to change their
voices.  My son says they are a union type group of them all over the
country that go to showings and activities of Stars Wars.  They stated their
costumes cost over a $1,000. >>  

Probably the 501st Stormtrooper Division.  There are many pictures of them 
from Dragoncon in Atlanta.  They're awesome.

<<He just fell in love with all the light sabers duels tonight...
there are many.  He came out talking non-stop about them.  The light saber
duels were just like fencing with more acrobatics.>>

Some of my swordsman friends put on a lightsaber duel for the fans after the 
premiere.  It always draws a crowd  -- and strangely enough, the cops weren't 
called.

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]What yrs/Art Deco? (was Re: parasols)
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:23:32 -0700
Status: RO

To Azelana-

The Paris Exhibition that ushered in the "new" Art Deco style was held
in 1925 and the influences continues through the 1930's. Some people
stretch it into the 1940's, but that's a matter of personal perspective.

Theresa Eacker

Azelana@aol.com wrote: (massive pruning)
> (What years are art deco?) 
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Stars Wars Costume Review
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 20:54:43 -0400
Status: RO

My son said that they were part of the Stormtroopers group.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 20:57:34 -0400
Status: RO

Cassandra wrote:
(remarks snipped)

And Stevie wrote:
(remarks snipped)

Ok, I don't think I'm the only person annoyed and bored by this exchange
between you two -- PLEASE stop the argument and change the subject to
something more productive!

-- Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Subject: [h-cost] Never mind!
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 21:04:10 -0400
Status: RO

Ok, never mind.  My computer is being wierd and I'm getting messages long
after they're sent.  Sorry, folks.

Anyway, on ANOTHER subject entirely...

I have a new rule.  My customers will NOT go fabric shopping without me.
Actually, it's an old rule, but a new customer I've never worked with
before just showed up for a design session/fitting, and arrived with his
fabric already bought.  I had no idea he was gonna go fabric shopping
today, and would have told him not to if I'd known.  I coulda saved him a
_bundle_ by buying the stuff online.  And I'm not sure he bought enough of
each, so I need to finish drafting up the pattern this week so that I can
let him know if he needs to go back to G Street and get more fabric. 

Sigh...  Well, it's his money, right?  I.e., "not my problem"!

- Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 19:38:10 -0600
Status: RO

A caraco jacket from the 18th c.? I'd have to double-check my notes, but
IIRC, some of them were made from? lined in? chintz cotton.  Of course,
all bets could be off depending on what color your fabric is, whether it
has a pattern, etc.  I admit distinct ignorance as to appropriate
colors/patterns for chintz without checking my class notes, though :-).

--Sue (18th c. is not normally "my" time period, [although I'm learning!
<g>], but I did just take this nifty class on Caraco jackets through
Penny's website....

Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I bought some chintz cotton which, due to less than ideal storage
> conditions, is badly creased. OK, so I know I can't wash it, or steam
> iron it, so I anticipate a lengthy session with a warm iron...
> Once I've persuaded the fabric to see things my way I shall make it up
> in a pattern which justifies all the work, and the dry-cleaning bills
> of the future. The question is what?
> I've got five metres 160cm wide, and I hear the siren sound of
> leg-of-mutton sleeves calling me. Perhaps h-cost could come up with a
> much better idea or three?
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 02:31:14 +0000
Status: RO


I also saw Star Wars on opening day.  I have had a couple people ask me how 
I liked it and the first thing out of my mouth each time is, "Well, the 
costumes were fantastic!!!"  There was as much detail put into the costumes 
as the visual effects.  So there was plenty of "eye candy" for both my 
husband (a digital artist) and me.
I too noticed that many of the cloaks were based off the kinsale cloak 
pattern.  I found that very interesting.
I need to watch it again so I can pick up on all the details that I missed 
the first time!

:) jessica


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Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 22:50:04 -0400
Status: RO

Where can you find the Paper Doll book??  I would love to add it to my
small collection.  The gowns are stunning.  Hmm a new twist for Ren
wear?


Di
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 00:10:41 -0400
Status: RO

I have a link on the front of my website to the Star Wars paper dolls books
on the front of my website.  Look near the bottom... there are links to
Amazon.com .

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 00:47:00 -0400
Status: RO



Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> I have a link on the front of my website to the Star Wars paper dolls books
> on the front of my website.  Look near the bottom... there are links to
> Amazon.com .


Thanks Penny. 

I have one coming now!

Diana
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 05:44:50 EDT
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In a message dated 5/18/2002 10:44:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dychap@inetone.net writes:

<< Where can you find the Paper Doll book??  >>
I got mine at K-Mart.  It's fun because it also includes some commentary.
Ann Wass
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 05:48:54 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/18/2002 10:44:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dychap@inetone.net writes:

<<  Hmm a new twist for Ren
 wear?
  >>
Was it over 10 years ago that the LA County Museum of Art mounted Hollywood 
and History?  I wanted to see it in Boston, but the best I could do was buy 
the book.  Anyway, it includes films chronologically by the date in which 
they are set, and includes a section on the future.  I believe the writer 
makes the point that SciFi often draws heavily on the classical: Greek, Roman 
(and Egyptian).  So now we have what--Renaissance, Medieval?  A new twist.
Ann Wass
Who has not seen the movie yet because she has been mounting a costume 
exhibit and Riversdale and then has to fly out for her nephew's high school 
graduation.
Shameless plug--if you are in the DC area, come see the exhibit,"Dressing the 
Federal City"--4811 Riverdale Rd., Riverdale Park, MD
annbwass@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 08:41:33 EDT
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<< I have a new rule.  My customers will NOT go fabric shopping without me.
 Actually, it's an old rule...[snippage]  I'm not sure he bought enough of
 each, so I need to finish drafting up the pattern this week so that I can
 let him know if he needs to go back to G Street and get more fabric. >>
 
Mara, I sooo know what you mean!  I charge $10/hr + materials cost, so I do 
allow clients to supply fabric if they wish, but under the following 
conditions:

1) The toile has passed the final fitting, so I can give them accurate 
yardage quotes. 

2)  We've discussed appropriate fabrics, weights, and fibre content -- 
including their washing preferences. 

3)  They seem to understand #2 well enough to not get it wrong anyway, AND 
provide a sample of their final choices for approval before buying.  OR, they 
bring me with them to shop. 

I can't tell you how many of my friends have tried to save money by going for 
the really thin acetate satins (which are quite seethrough in lighter shades) 
and then I have to tell them they didn't save money because now we'll have to 
buy interfacings and full lining yardage.  Mind you, all those people were 
LARPers who bought the fabric with the intentions of whipping something up 
themselves --before meeting me -- then realized they had no idea how and not 
enough time to learn.   Most of my clients just have me go shopping alone and 
then bring swatches to them.  I'm also lucky in that many give me "full 
creative license," because they tell me what I can actually make is much more 
they they can even imagine.  It started happening
when a close friend had me design something just for fun, then he wore it to 
a LARP and everyone asked how he'd come up with it.  Now, even "work" is fun 
again!

--Gillian
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:24:26 EDT
Status: RO


I'm so excited!  I just ordered my "pomander".  Thanks for the link!  I got 
the large thimble case pendant in antique gold.  Is that the size you all 
have?  How big is it?  I can't believe it fit my budget AND looks _exactly_ 
like I wanted.  I sooooooo happy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  And there's a slim chance it 
will even arrive for the big event on June 8th: Baronial Investiture!  I'll 
be debuting my new gown then, so I'd really love to have it.  If they were to 
offer the large size in silver, I'd buy it (next month) for my wedding dress. 
 Maybe if the large turns out to be very big, then the small silver would be 
ok for my wedding...  We'll see.

BTW, I just finished my very first tall-crowned hat, and it looks marvelous! 
(Can you tell I'm in an exclamation point mood?)

--Gillian
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:51:40 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


Several people on this list have asked me to "let them know" when I might
be giving lectures on the East Coast. Below is a reposted announcement for
a Costume Collegium sponsored by an SCA group in New Jersey, close to New
York City. The date is Saturday, June 15, and I'll be the non-SCA guest
speaker.

I'll be giving a brief keynote address (really just opening remarks) and
four hours of classes, with topics of the Gothic fitted dress, the
Greenland gored gown, the sideless surcote, and the V-necked (Burgundian)
gown. These will not be how-to sessions; they'll be overviews of the
development of the fashion, with lots and lots of pictures and analysis.
But I will be discussing construction issues along the way. I'll also try
to make myself available for informal conversation during my off-hours.

I just had a look at the website, and the schedule is just barely there,
with the times wrong on some sessions, so watch for updates.

I presume that non-SCA people can attend under the provisions for
new/potential SCA members. You will probably have to dress in costume --
not that this is any problem for most h-cost members, but if it is, you
might check with the event planner to see if that's required.

If any h-cost listmembers are coming, please drop me a line. I'd love to
put some faces with names, though I can pretty much guarantee I'll forget
most faces five minutes later anyway (I have a real difficulty with
faces). :-(

--Robin

---------- Forwarded message ----------

> Greetings to you, good gentles,
> 
> This announcement is being forwarded to several lists - so please
> accept my sincere apologies if you receive this more than once.
> 
> There will be a Costume Collegium on Saturday, June 15 at the Church
> of the Savior Episcopal Church, 155 Morris Avenue, Denville, NJ 07834.  
> This is being held with the kind permission of the Barony of Settmour
> Swamp.  There will be approx. 20 classes dealing with various aspects
> of costuming, including (but not limited to) clothing and accessories
> from specific time periods, textile classes, hand-sewing techniques
> and a round-table discussion.  Robin Netherton* is scheduled to be our
> Key-note speaker from 10:30-11:00am.  There will be a 20 minute break
> and the Class Schedule will resume until approx. 6:00 pm.
> 
> There will be an A&S Display.  Please bring items (finished or
> works-in-progress) to be displayed.  Documentation is encouraged.  
> Gentles are encouraged to bring tokens to bestow on those
> items/projects that inspire them.
> 
> The site will open at 9 am and close to all at 8 pm.
> 
> Here is the basic website - the class schedule will be updated, so
> please check back.  More information is also available on the East
> Kingdom website, under Events.
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/2269/
> 
> We are still looking for volunteers to teach a class or two on
> clothing, accessories, textiles, knitting, tablet weaving or any other
> such costuming topics.  Please contact me (at muriel_vh@hotmail.com if
> you are interested.
> 
> We are looking forward to seeing you on Saturday, June 15.
> 
> In Service,
> Lady Muriel de Chimay 
> muriel_vh@hotmail.com
> 
> *Robin Netherton is an independent scholar specializing in costume of
> the Middle Ages. Since 1982, she has given lectures and workshops for
> academic audiences, historical societies, reenactment groups, and
> writers' organizations both here and abroad, on practical aspects of
> period costume as well as on costume as an approach to social history,
> art history, and literature. Her research focuses on the development
> of the cut of European clothing in the 12th through 15th centuries, as
> well as on the depiction and interpretation of clothing by artists and
> historians, both medieval and modern.
> 
> Since 1987, she has helped organize sessions on dress and textiles at
> the International Congress on Medieval Studies, an interdisciplinary
> academic conference sponsored every May by the Medieval Institute in
> Kalamazoo, Michigan.
> 
> Her recent article on a proposed cutting method for a 12th century
> Norman gown, published in the _Costume Research Journal_, was
> reprinted in the Winter 2002 _Tournaments Illuminated_.
> 
> Ms. Netherton studied journalism and medieval English literature at
> the University of Missouri and did graduate work in manuscript studies
> and book arts at Cornell University and the University of Iowa. To
> support her academic habit, she works as a freelance editor and
> writer.

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Star Wars Review
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 15:21:26 +0000
Status: RO

>I too noticed that many of the cloaks were based off the kinsale cloak
>pattern.


Could someone tell me what the kinsale cloak pattern is? (URL? Book? 
Commercial pattern?)

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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 12:53:42 -0400
Status: RO

You can see it by going to my Classroom (see url below) and go to the
schedule for Sept.  Click on the class.  Liz Gerds, the patternmaker, is
teaching a class on how to make it.  She was a member of h-costume for
several years.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:00:27 -0600
Status: RO

If it's the one I'm thinking of (haven't yet seen the movie), it's a
pattern put out by Folkwear.  I bought the pattern many years ago from a
local store, so I'm not sure who's still selling the patterns--the
company's been sold a couple of times since I bought the pattern.
If it's the one I've got, it's a rectangularly-based pattern,
gathered/cartridge pleated into a neckline, with a sort-of collar that
flops down over the shoulders a bit (in other words, it doesn't stand up
like a shirt collar).  Comes with this enormous optional hood (which
buttons on) for the ladies....
I like mine, although the closure style (a clasp just about collar-bone
height) does have a tendency to slide back and up to my throat, and want
to choke me.  That, however, may be due as much to the fact that I lined
the cloak with a slippery coat satin as anything.
All in all, makes a pretty good "basic cloak" for my purposes
(non-specific SCA cloak).
--Sue

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> 
> >I too noticed that many of the cloaks were based off the kinsale cloak
> >pattern.
> 
> Could someone tell me what the kinsale cloak pattern is? (URL? Book?
> Commercial pattern?)
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 13:02:25 -0400
Status: RO

That is the same one Sue.  I think Liz told me that AlterYears carries it
now or you can contact Liz directly though the Classroom.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 13:34:49 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO


Has Folkwear patterns changed hands again?  This is the website I found
from a Google search:

http://www.earthguild.com/products/folkwear/fw1.htm

With the Following text:

 FOLKWEAR PATTERNS
As of May 2002, Folkwear is back where it belongs, in the hands of Kate
Mathews, here in Asheville. All the patterns currently in print are
ready to ship. Re-prints are underway, and will be available in 6 to 8
weeks. We are both pleased and relieved

There is now no mention of Folkwear Patterns on the Lark Books site.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.30.0205191332230.15454-100000@shell3.shore.net>
 "from Katy Bishop at May 19, 2002 01:34:49 pm"
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 10:38:25 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

it's now at folkwear.com -

> 
> Has Folkwear patterns changed hands again?  This is the website I found
> from a Google search:
> 
> http://www.earthguild.com/products/folkwear/fw1.htm
> 
> With the Following text:
> 
>  FOLKWEAR PATTERNS
> As of May 2002, Folkwear is back where it belongs, in the hands of Kate
> Mathews, here in Asheville. All the patterns currently in print are
> ready to ship. Re-prints are underway, and will be available in 6 to 8
> weeks. We are both pleased and relieved
> 
> There is now no mention of Folkwear Patterns on the Lark Books site.
> 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 10:45:24 -0700
Status: RO

The Eearthguild site looks like a retailer selling Folkwear patterns,
rather than a manufacturer.

The "contact us" street address for Folkwear on www.folkwear.com is the
same as that for Lark Books on www.larkbooks.com --67 Broadway, Asheville,
NC 28801.

I've heard this rumor before. It seems like when Lark Books put up a
Folkwear website with its own domain name, they confused people.

Fran Grimble

Katy Bishop wrote:

> Has Folkwear patterns changed hands again?  This is the website I found
> from a Google search:
>
> http://www.earthguild.com/products/folkwear/fw1.htm
>
> With the Following text:
>
>  FOLKWEAR PATTERNS
> As of May 2002, Folkwear is back where it belongs, in the hands of Kate
> Mathews, here in Asheville. All the patterns currently in print are
> ready to ship. Re-prints are underway, and will be available in 6 to 8
> weeks. We are both pleased and relieved
>
> There is now no mention of Folkwear Patterns on the Lark Books site.

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@golden.net>
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:49:43 -0400
Status: RO

    Folkwear has indeed changed hands again. As a dealer I found out a few
weeks ago. It started as Folkwear, was sold to Taunton, was sold to Lark,
was sold to Sterling, and now is owned by Kate Mathews, long-time general
manger of Folkwear. She is reprinting all the patterns (some of them
relatively new!) that Sterling had stupidly allowed to go out of print. It's
business as usual, but better. So all of us who are dealers for Folkwear are
now able to again depend upon reliable service, as well as look forward to
the release of several new patterns.

    They are expecting to shrotly release a Turkish dancer three piece
ensemble of entari gown, fitted vest, and easy-sew jacket based on 19th
century Ottoman Empire costumes. Very much looking forward to getting this
into our repetoire. As soon as it's available I'll announce it through our
montly electronic newsletter, as well as post it on our website.

    All of Folkwear's line can be viewed and purchased through our secure,
online catalogue.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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References: <4.3.1.2.20020518151343.00c28610@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chintz cotton- period and pattern suggestions, please
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 20:35:08 +0100
Status: RO

Kayta wrote, re my query on a suitable use for chintz cotton

>
> Does it look Georgian?  (Do you do Georgian?)


AAArgh. Actually, it's perfectly plain sugar pink, and the aaaargh is
because I should have thought of that immediately; I was raised on
Georgette Heyer. I will go and take a look in the Museum of London
tomorow to refresh my memory.
Thanks for the suggestion; can you recomend a pattern?

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:29:13 -0600
Status: RO

Check out the patterns on JP Ryan's website....
www.jpryan.com

Darn her website seems to be down right now, but you can also buy her
patterns on this site:
http://www.jastown.com/

--Sue (very happy client/student)


Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Kayta wrote, re my query on a suitable use for chintz cotton
> 
> >
> > Does it look Georgian?  (Do you do Georgian?)
> 
> AAArgh. Actually, it's perfectly plain sugar pink, and the aaaargh is
> because I should have thought of that immediately; I was raised on
> Georgette Heyer. I will go and take a look in the Museum of London
> tomorow to refresh my memory.
> Thanks for the suggestion; can you recomend a pattern?
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:32:34 -0600
Status: RO

Well, cool! Thanks for the update.  I'd tried to find them, a while
back, and couldn't find anything past Taunton, which knew had them at
one point, but no longer had them on their website.
Why does the line keep getting sold? Not profitable enough, or just one
of those corporate bidness thangs?
--sue

Five Rivers wrote:
> 
>     Folkwear has indeed changed hands again. As a dealer I found out a few
> weeks ago. It started as Folkwear, was sold to Taunton, was sold to Lark,
> was sold to Sterling, and now is owned by Kate Mathews, long-time general
> manger of Folkwear. She is reprinting all the patterns (some of them
> relatively new!) that Sterling had stupidly allowed to go out of print. It's
> business as usual, but better. So all of us who are dealers for Folkwear are
> now able to again depend upon reliable service, as well as look forward to
> the release of several new patterns.
> 
>     They are expecting to shrotly release a Turkish dancer three piece
> ensemble of entari gown, fitted vest, and easy-sew jacket based on 19th
> century Ottoman Empire costumes. Very much looking forward to getting this
> into our repetoire. As soon as it's available I'll announce it through our
> montly electronic newsletter, as well as post it on our website.
> 
>     All of Folkwear's line can be viewed and purchased through our secure,
> online catalogue.
> 
> Regards
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 13:43:25 -0700
Status: RO

Then why does Lark Books still have Folkwear on their website?  Mysteries
abound.

Fran

Five Rivers wrote:

>     Folkwear has indeed changed hands again. As a dealer I found out a few
> weeks ago. It started as Folkwear, was sold to Taunton, was sold to Lark,
> was sold to Sterling, and now is owned by Kate Mathews, long-time general
> manger of Folkwear.

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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 16:41:29 -0400
Status: RO

Sue,

Liz is coming out of lurking and explain it all.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 13:43:15 -0700
Status: RO

What fabulous news!  Now I don't suppose there's any chance of some of these 
patterns being revised to include larger sizes?  An awful lot ogf them stop 
at a 14.  Grading that up to a 20-22 is a lot of work to do well.

Oh well, I can dream, can't I?


MaggiRos


>From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns
>Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 13:34:49 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>Has Folkwear patterns changed hands again?  This is the website I found
>from a Google search:
>
>http://www.earthguild.com/products/folkwear/fw1.htm
>
>With the Following text:
>
>  FOLKWEAR PATTERNS
>As of May 2002, Folkwear is back where it belongs, in the hands of Kate
>Mathews, here in Asheville. All the patterns currently in print are
>ready to ship. Re-prints are underway, and will be available in 6 to 8
>weeks. We are both pleased and relieved
>
>There is now no mention of Folkwear Patterns on the Lark Books site.
>
>Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 13:52:36 -0700
Status: RO

It looks like Sterling bought Lark Books in 1999, and then presumably more
recently decided to offload the Folkwear part of Lark.

Lavolta Press wrote:

> Then why does Lark Books still have Folkwear on their website?  Mysteries
> abound.
>
> Fran
>
> Five Rivers wrote:
>
> >     Folkwear has indeed changed hands again. As a dealer I found out a few
> > weeks ago. It started as Folkwear, was sold to Taunton, was sold to Lark,
> > was sold to Sterling, and now is owned by Kate Mathews, long-time general
> > manger of Folkwear.
>

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
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Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:00:15 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


I'm flattered Penny, that you thought the cloak Amadala wore was off of my pattern, but it isn't true. I have yet to see a costume in a Star Wars film I could identify as coming from a commercial pattern, especially since Lucas basically gives the costume folks an unlimited budget. (Of course, they also didn't get to see the shooting script until 3 weeks before filming started. <g>)

While the cloak I think you are talking about is a full cloak with a voluminous hood (we are talking about the grey one she wears on Tatooine, right?) you can see that it has no collar, and a fitted shoulder and neck.  The Kinsale Cloak needs the collar has the body of the cloak is pleated into it.

Star Wars costumes tend to be elaborate and unique, with hints of many different ethnic influences.  I’ve recreated many of the styles over the years, and they are always more complex than they seem at first look (rather like some historical styles).  For example the ‘Bespin Fatigues’ worn by Luke in “The Empire Strikes Back” have 5 separate pieces in each sleeve, not counting the pocket or lining.

Of course one of the problems is the way lighting and angles change the look of any costume.  If you want to get a glimpse of the way they really look, try the ‘Art of…’ books or the “Storybook” publications. Or plan on coming to LA in the spring before the Academy Awards to catch the “Hollywood” exhibit at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandise Galley.  They had the Episode 1 costumes on display back in 2000, so hopefully they’ll be able to get the Episode 2 costumes next year.  If you want to see what they’ve displayed before, hop on over to www.fidm.com and follow the links to the gallery.  

As for those who want to recreate the costumes for they’re own use, don’t worry, Lucas is much less paranoid than Paramount is over the Star Trek stuff.  He realizes that every person who want to dress up as a Jedi Knight is one more person likely to be spending their money on books and toys looking for those details.

Liz Gerds
long time Star Wars fan and costumer.


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chintz cotton- period and pattern suggestions, please
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:00:19 -0700
Status: RO


> > Does it look Georgian?  (Do you do Georgian?)
>
>
>AAArgh. Actually, it's perfectly plain sugar pink, and the aaaargh is
>because I should have thought of that immediately; I was raised on
>Georgette Heyer. I will go and take a look in the Museum of London
>tomorow to refresh my memory.
>Thanks for the suggestion; can you recomend a pattern?

No.  Go to any one of the sites the Rev. War folks on this list have 
already recommended.  Aside from Regency dancing, we mostly don't do 
1700's-early 1800's European in California.


Kayta
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 13:56:30 -0700
Status: RO


>I like mine, although the closure style (a clasp just about collar-bone
>height) does have a tendency to slide back and up to my throat, and want
>to choke me.  That, however, may be due as much to the fact that I lined
>the cloak with a slippery coat satin as anything.

Put pieces of felt at your shoulders, over the satin lining, and the cloak 
won't tend to slip as much.

>All in all, makes a pretty good "basic cloak" for my purposes
>(non-specific SCA cloak).

I don't know what Folkwear was using for their original, but I've seen more 
than one example of this type of cloak, all from the mid-1700's.  It 
doesn't look like surviving examples of SCA-period cloaks I have seen, or 
contemporary illustrations either.


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



Folkwear Patterns was purchased a few years ago by Lark Publications after being for sale for some time and Lark has been looking to sell it. (They may have sold it recently, but I haven't heard about a sale being finalized.)   The problem as I heard it on the grapevine is that the person who convinced Lark to get into the pattern business no longer works for them and it really doesn't fit with the rest of their products.  

If Kate Mathews has indeed bought the company, she has my best wishes that she can bring it back to its former glory, and continue to build on its foundation of well researched and well drafted patterns.  My only cry would be to expand the sizing as quickly as possible beyond the 6-16 that so many of the patterns are in.

The problem with getting a hold of Folkwear Patterns is that due to the length of time the company was originally up for sale, it lost most of its distribution channels, and Lark never worked to get them back.  Additionally, many of the patterns were either out of print (since no printing was going on during the sale period) or part of the "Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection" which, due to the way the contract was written, didn't go with the sale of the copyright to Lark.  Over the past few years, Lark has come out with new patterns, and re-issued the out-of-print patterns, but they have not aggressively gone after distribution channels.

During the time when it looked like Folkwear was never going to find a new buyer (and therefore go out of print entirely) I created *my* Kinsale cloak pattern, starting with the Folkwear pattern as one of my resources.  I created a second hood style and a second collar style, changed the interfacing into something that worked. Additionally, going back to the original historical style, the hood is stitched into the collar along with the body, not buttoned on as an accessory.  The pattern is published by AlterYears in heavy paper and is available from them at www.AlterYears.com.  If you are interested, I’m teaching a class for it at www.CostumeClassroom.com in the fall.

Liz Gerds




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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 16:28:34 -0600
Status: RO

Nope, you're right....it doesn't.  However, I bought the pattern and the
fabric (actually a very nice navy-blue merino wool on sale) back in the
days when I didn't really know better, and long before I really had any
access to anyone else who knew any better.
It does, however, fit within the rather flexible guidelines the SCA has
for clothing. Someday, I will have more authentic outerwear for whatever
clothing I'm wearing, but at the moment, this cloak does okay--I use it
for just about everything I wear (pretty much all 15th and 16th c)
except the pseudo-middle eastern stuff, for which I have a black wool
aba.  I suspect at some point, when I have something better, that I'll
take the cloak apart and oh...make an 18th c. petticoat or something out
of it.  Or maybe one of those nifty jackets you sometimes see on the
merchant women in 16th c. Flemish paintings....maybe both (there's a lot
of fabric in that cloak! <g>)
--Sue (in NW Montana, where it looks like our lovely, unseasonably warm
(high 70s!) weekend is coming to a close with a perfectly seasonal
thunderstorm!  Ah, well...we can always use the rain, and anyways, it
smells good! ;-)

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> I don't know what Folkwear was using for their original, but I've seen more
> than one example of this type of cloak, all from the mid-1700's.  It
> doesn't look like surviving examples of SCA-period cloaks I have seen, or
> contemporary illustrations either.
> 
> Kayta
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 18:29:41 -0400
Status: RO

Sue,

Are you talking about in the old days.... pre-internet days??????  Sorry,
I'm not that old!  <<<running away fast>>>>>>

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 19:10:14 -0400
Status: RO



AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 5/18/2002 10:44:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dychap@inetone.net writes:
> 
> <<  Hmm a new twist for Ren
>  wear?
>   >>
> Was it over 10 years ago that the LA County Museum of Art mounted Hollywood
> and History?  I wanted to see it in Boston, but the best I could do was buy
> the book.  Anyway, it includes films chronologically by the date in which
> they are set, and includes a section on the future.  I believe the writer
> makes the point that SciFi often draws heavily on the classical: Greek, Roman
> (and Egyptian).  So now we have what--Renaissance, Medieval?  A new twist.
> Ann Wass
> Who has not seen the movie yet because she has been mounting a costume
> exhibit and Riversdale and then has to fly out for her nephew's high school
> graduation.
> Shameless plug--if you are in the DC area, come see the exhibit,"Dressing the
> Federal City"--4811 Riverdale Rd., Riverdale Park, MD
> annbwass@aol.com

Just returned from the Movie.  I'm an old Star Wars Fan ( one never
knows about the dark side) but this movie does wonders for the visual.
Have to see it again so I can study all the costumes.  I remain a Star
Wars fan. I won't say anything to give away the good points.  Each
person must see it to form their own opinion.  Now I will sit back and
bite my nails till Part 3.

Must also find this book.  Thanks.

Diana
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Star Wars Costume Review
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 16:49:21 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Liz Gerds wrote: 
[...] 
> While the cloak I think you are talking about is a full cloak with a 
>voluminous hood (we are talking about the grey one she wears on Tatooine, 
>right?) you can see that it has no collar, and a fitted shoulder and neck.  
>The Kinsale Cloak needs the collar has the body of the cloak is pleated into 
>it.

I'm glad you as the designer spoke up.  From what I can see of the closeup
shots on the various costume sites and in the books I've seen round, there
are no collars on any of the cloaks.  And the hood isn't gathered at the
crown the way your cloak design is.  Also, at least in the case of Anakin's
cloak, it appears to be bias-cut with a much more fitted shoulder, and 
the neck appears to be finished by rolling it over and sewing it down by
hand.  There haven't been any good shots of the neckline of Amadala's 
cloak to tell what they did for that one.  The hoods appear to be more
shaped than the Kinsdale Cloak one, simply because there isn't the gathering
at the crown to provide the shape.  

Spent the last couple days raking through the various costume sites.  The
Padawan Guide seems to be the best for having multiple, clear shots of a 
given costume.  
http://www.padawansguide.com/
Also of interest is Amber's Jedi Meditation Chamber
http://www.rebellegion.com/jedigarb/

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 21:28:34 -0400
Status: RO

Well, I'm definitely going to be there. I'm connected with the 
organizers. I look forward to seeing you.

Anne

Robin Netherton wrote:

>Several people on this list have asked me to "let them know" when I might
>be giving lectures on the East Coast. Below is a reposted announcement for
>a Costume Collegium sponsored by an SCA group in New Jersey, close to New
>York City. The date is Saturday, June 15, and I'll be the non-SCA guest
>speaker.
>
>


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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 23:09:30 -0300
Status: RO

A few weeks ago I entered your website dealing with costumes as I needed to
do some research for a specific project on medieval costumes. Ever since
I've been receiving messages regarding costumes from your site and am not
really interested in receiving any more information. If possible, please
eliminate me from your mailing list. Thank you, Alex.

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 22:40:31 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO


Looks like it just happened this month (the website mentions "as of May
2002").  Maybe Lark is just being slow in taking Folkwear.com off-line,
or they have a stock of patterns to sell-off...

Katy

On Sun, 19 May 2002, Liz Gerds wrote:

>Folkwear Patterns was purchased a few years ago by Lark Publications
>after being for sale for some time and Lark has been looking to sell
>it. (They may have sold it recently, but I haven't heard about a sale
>being finalized.)  The problem as I heard it on the grapevine is that
>the person who convinced Lark to get into the pattern business no
>longer works for them and it really doesn't fit with the rest of their
>products.


Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 21:38:32 -0600
Status: RO

Hah! Run you can, but not hide, oh She With the Well-Visited Website!
Besides, I'm not that old...well, mostly not that old <g>, and I've only
had internet access for two years, personally (couldn't afford the
computer).  It's really made a difference in what I've found, learned,
researched, etc.
--Sue, who *really, really* should be sewing on her 16th c. Italian
shift, and NOT playing with her email.....<weg>

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Sue,
> 
> Are you talking about in the old days.... pre-internet days??????  Sorry,
> I'm not that old!  <<<running away fast>>>>>>
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric sell or 
 swap..Re:[h-cost] h-c swap and save, was
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 21:52:40 -0600
Status: RO

I agree with MaggiRos....
--Sue

Maggie Secara wrote:
> 
> I think that, as tyou say, and as we agreed once before, the swap n sell is
> a closed list. It's only us.  People should provide their names.
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> >From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
> >Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric sell or
> >swap..Re: [h-cost] h-c swap and save, was
> >Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 03:32:59 -0500
> >
> >At 02:08 PM 5/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >>On Fri, 17 May 2002, Gwyn Carnegie wrote:
> >> > >Why not use the H-Costume Swap and Sell site that Danielle created
> >> > >specifically for this purpose?  That way your friends at H-Costume get
> >> > >first crack at all your goodies. If you have anything left over, then
> >> > >put it on eBay.
> >>
> >> > I've been to the site but no one seems to use it. I've had a few people
> >> > contact me and it sounds like ebay is the way to go.
> >>
> >>Don't let the low quantity of messages on the site throw you. When someone
> >>posts a new item, those of us who are signed up get a notice about it. If
> >>we're interested, we'll respond directly to you.
> >>
> >>I've sold nearly every item I've listed on the site, and fast.
> >>
> >>What's important is not the number of messages, but the number of people
> >>on the list. Danielle, do you know how many of us there are?
> >>
> >>--Robin
> >
> >Amazingly enough Robin, I'm looking at my H-Costume email for the first
> >time since K'zoo and caught this. : )  We have 130 members on HCostume
> >fabric sell or swap...  Oh, and I do advise people to use the invitation to
> >sign-up...it simplifies things enormously.  However, I do ask that those of
> >you who do sign up that way, fill in all the info requested.  This
> >community results in business transactions and signing-up as "unidentified"
> >doesn't show much faith in your fellows.  At the will of this list - anyone
> >who signs up without an invitation and doesn't provide at least a name &
> >email address are declined.  I've just noticed that there are a few people
> >already signed up through the invites who haven't given us their name
> >etc.  So, what do all of you think?  Should their membership be revoked if
> >they don't update their info?
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Danielle
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 20 00:05:20 2002
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 23:52:52 -0400
Status: RO

Is anyone else here on the WhiteFox Trading Co mailing list?
I received an odd message from TBBS.net mail saying:
"We have detected that the attached email contained a virus. This email
was sent to you by owners@whitefoxtrading.com containing   srt_0[14].exe

with a virus but the virus had been deleted."

Did anyone else get this message? What is with the viruses these past
few days?!
Please respond to me off-list, I know this isn't appropriate list talk.
Deb R.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 20 00:36:20 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Star Wars Review
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 00:23:05 -0400
Status: RO

Sue,

As you can tell I didn't sleep until noon today.  Susan and I have been
working on some new surprises for all to view.  We are in creative mood!
Susan in 1912 and I am in 1921.

I think I got out of costuming for years because I didn't know others who
shared my interest.  When I went back to college in 1995, I discovered the
internet and found all these wonderful people at h-costume!  It is amazing
what the internet has done for the costuming industry.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 00:24:38 -0400
Status: RO

Deb,

It sounds like that new virus that is going around playing tricks on you.
It likes to pretend it is other people.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 20 01:41:06 2002
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 00:34:28 -0500
Status: RO

In that case.  Consider this official notice to the list that in 5 days, if 
the individuals who haven't disclosed their info, haven't changed that, 
their memberships will be terminated.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:52 PM 5/19/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>I agree with MaggiRos....
>--Sue
>
>Maggie Secara wrote:
> >
> > I think that, as tyou say, and as we agreed once before, the swap n sell is
> > a closed list. It's only us.  People should provide their names.
> >
> > MaggiRos

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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 01:46:23 EDT
Status: RO

Sorry, I've been away for a couple of days.  I went to the site and couldn't 
log in!  Had a most frustrating time trying to sign up.

Help!!

Darla
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Subject: [h-cost] a cool new book
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 01:07:39 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings,

I just wanted to tell people about this cool new book I got at Kalamazoo.
http://www.upress.umn.edu/Books/D/deserps_various.html

It's called "The Various Styles of Clothing" by François Deserps and edited 
and translated by Sara Shannon.
It is a facsimilie of a 1562 book written by Deserps.   The English 
translation of the original title is "A Collection of the various styles of 
clothing which are presently worn in countries of Europe, Asia, Africa, and 
the savage islands, all realistically depicted."

 From the website:
"Based on information Deserps claimed to have received from travelers about 
the garments worn by people from distant lands, this collection has been 
called the earliest book published in France on ethnography and costume. It 
was originally intended to be read by children, specifically the 
eight-year-old Henry of Navarre, the future King Henry IV. In it, clerics, 
aristocrats, soldiers, peasants, men, women, and even a few monsters are 
pictured in 121 woodcut illustrations, each accompanied by four lines of 
verse describing some aspect of the person or clothing portrayed."

The images are actually colored (look kind of like hand-tinted old photos 
in terms of colors) and there are some VERY funky styles in there.  For 
example: page 50 has a "French peasant woman" with a diagonal fastening on 
her bodice...  Oh, and there are a couple of odd completely fictional 
critters in there too. : )

It's available through Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0816640130/qid%3D1021874530/103-6816135-7155837

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric sell
  or  swap..Re: [h-cost] h-c swap and save, was
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 02:22:51 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Stevie,

Well, you start by signing in at www.communityzero.com  You should get a 
page that has a row of small icons near the top of the page.  "Edit my 
Profile" is the fourth one from the left or second from the right.  That 
will bring you to your personal info page.  Hopefully, that is what you're 
looking for.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:05 PM 5/18/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>Danielle,
>
>I'm not sure how much info I originally gave when signing up for the
>community, and since I agree with you that we should be open with each
>other I'd like to check my entry:-)
>Can you tell me how to do this?
>
>apologies for the ignorance...
>Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric sell or  swap.
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:57:34 -0500
Status: RO

I'm new here, where is the HCostume fabric sell or swap?

Amanda Blackwolf
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@attbi.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 12:34 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: admisitrative info & question about HCostume fabric
sell or swap.


> In that case.  Consider this official notice to the list that in 5 days,
if
> the individuals who haven't disclosed their info, haven't changed that,
> their memberships will be terminated.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle


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From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: parasols
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 08:58:22 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_3131921==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 05:40 PM 5/18/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 5/10/02 11:19:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
><< I'm not sure why parasols went so far out of
>  fashion but I'm sure the ugliness of some of the modern styles has a lot to
>  do with it. Finding decent parasols or even frames to recover is a journey
>  unto it's self. We have good reproductions of shoes, eyeglasses, gloves,
>  hats, jewelry, even walking sticks but I'm not impressed with what I've
>  seen in the parasol department. And when you do find a good one, it's hella
>  scary expensive. Someone needs to fix that - just tell me who to write 
> to >;
>) >>
>
>Ah, try eBay!  I got an antique parasol --guessing 1920, but not my period--
>with a rosewood handle wrapped in sterling silver art deco vines for $20.
>(What years are art deco?)  The fabric needs to be replaced, which is why it
>was so cheap
>
>--Gillian

EBay and I are good friends in this regard. In fact this last weekend I 
picked up another vintage 40" parasol with a guilloche enamel handle.

My point was more that we have people making decent reproductions of almost 
everything but these and the really large 23" celluloid fans. When I have 
the choice, I use the reproduction and store / conserve the original. No 
moral judgements attached, I'm just weird that way.


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis


--=====================_3131921==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 05:40 PM 5/18/2002 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>In a message dated 5/10/02 11:19:59
PM Eastern Daylight Time, <br>
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<br><br>
&lt;&lt; I'm not sure why parasols went so far out of <br>
&nbsp;fashion but I'm sure the ugliness of some of the modern styles has
a lot to <br>
&nbsp;do with it. Finding decent parasols or even frames to recover is a
journey <br>
&nbsp;unto it's self. We have good reproductions of shoes, eyeglasses,
gloves, <br>
&nbsp;hats, jewelry, even walking sticks but I'm not impressed with what
I've <br>
&nbsp;seen in the parasol department. And when you do find a good one,
it's hella <br>
&nbsp;scary expensive. Someone needs to fix that - just tell me who to
write to &gt;; <br>
) &gt;&gt;<br><br>
Ah, try eBay!&nbsp; I got an antique parasol --guessing 1920, but not my
period-- <br>
with a rosewood handle wrapped in sterling silver art deco vines for
$20.&nbsp; <br>
(What years are art deco?)&nbsp; The fabric needs to be replaced, which
is why it <br>
was so cheap<br><br>
--Gillian</blockquote><br>
EBay and I are good friends in this regard. In fact this last weekend I
picked up another vintage 40&quot; parasol with a guilloche enamel
handle.&nbsp; <br><br>
My point was more that we have people making decent reproductions of
almost everything but these and the really large 23&quot; celluloid fans.
When I have the choice, I use the reproduction and store / conserve the
original. No moral judgements attached, I'm just weird that 
way.<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br><br>
</b></html>

--=====================_3131921==_.ALT--

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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:53:18 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Hello list,

I have a mid-19th c chair in need of a face lift.  It's a lovely thing, but
after 150 yrs, the fabric is shot.  So is the stuffing.  I've heard it's
supposed to be stuffed with horsehair, but if you've been in James Madison's
house (near Charlottesville, Virginia) you'll know that furniture stuffed with
horsehair is a bit too.. um..  "aromatic" for a salon.

If there's any handy URLs in your collection, I'd be much obliged if you'd
share. On a similar note, does anyone have a recommendation for an upholsterer
in the Silicon Valley area?

--cin
f.k.a. Cynthia in Tokyo



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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:21:49 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Speaking of the Kinsale Cloak -- I've never used the pattern myself, but
it comes up in conversation on a few of the lists I'm on.  Does anyone
know what the historical basis of this cloak pattern is?  I'm told that
it's not quite accurate for 18th c. reenactors (not having used the
pattern, I'm not sure what the problem is), and wondered where
Folkwear got the pattern idea from.  If it's appropriate for another
period, it'd be good to know...

The 18th c. women's cloaks for which I've seen diagrams are large
half-circles, with gathers at the neckline where it attaches to the collar
or hood.  The hood is more or less rectangular and has 'fan' shaped
gathers at the back, and may or may not have a drawstring to the hood,
with the drawstrings tying at the top of the hood (which sounds awfully
silly to me, so if I do make one I'll probably leave that off).  Instead
of a clasp at the neck, most seem to tie with silk or wool ties.

Is the Folkwear pattern a half-circle, or a rectangle gathered to the
collar or hood?  Just curious!

-- Mara

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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:48:23 -0700
Status: RO


>
>Is the Folkwear pattern a half-circle, or a rectangle gathered to the
>collar or hood? 

No, it's a full circle, lined, with a double line of stitching through both
layers about 4" in from the edge, through which drawstrings are run.  The
result is a fairly clumsy ruffled effect.  The body is three panels of
fabric, gathered into the neckline, which results in too much bulk at the
neck, and not enought at the hem.  All in all, it's one ugly garment, and
I've never understood its popularity. 

Margo 
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:03:53 -0500
Status: RO


>
>Is the Folkwear pattern a half-circle, or a rectangle gathered to the
>collar or hood?  Just curious!
>
>-- Mara

Folkwear's is a rectangle, gathered to the collar.
3 rectangles  (side front, back, side front)  sewn together,
but still a rectangle when finished.
     I have one that I wear mundanely (and get loads of compliments!).
There is enough fabric to the front,   that it does not pull back
to my throat and choke me.   I've had cloaks that do that, believe me!

Deb Baddorf

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:16:56 -0400
Status: RO

    The Folkwear Kinsale has a yoke to which the cloak panels are attached,
as is the expansive hood. The Alter Years Kinsale is gathered at the neck
with the huge hood gathered there as well. The latter is the more
historically accurate of the two. As to how historically accurate the
Kinsale is for 18th century wear, well, it is, but if we're splitting hairs
here it's truthfully only accurate in a geographic sense, as in Ireland,
with some evidence of Scots and British use. Was it used in North America?
Don't know. Don't know of any extant examples. Would love to find out
otherwise. If one is worried about historical accuracy I'd suggest sticking
with a cloak such as the Kannik's Korner short cloak pattern.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 11:14:17 -0700
Status: RO


IIRC the cloak is pleated to the collar, which makes it look (to me, of 
course) like a pleated skirt with the seam left open and flung over your 
shoulders.  "Look, mommy, I made a cape!"

I also think the hood is very silly, but as we know, just because it's silly 
(or ugly) doesn't mean it isn't period.  I just don't know what period.  The 
pattern notes seem to say it's at least 16th century, but I always have a 
hard time with that one.

I don't blame Liz for revising it!  Nice work, Liz.


Maggie

>From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
>Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:21:49 -0400 (EDT)
>
>Speaking of the Kinsale Cloak -- I've never used the pattern myself, but
>it comes up in conversation on a few of the lists I'm on.  Does anyone
>know what the historical basis of this cloak pattern is?  I'm told that
>it's not quite accurate for 18th c. reenactors (not having used the
>pattern, I'm not sure what the problem is), and wondered where
>Folkwear got the pattern idea from.  If it's appropriate for another
>period, it'd be good to know...
>
>The 18th c. women's cloaks for which I've seen diagrams are large
>half-circles, with gathers at the neckline where it attaches to the collar
>or hood.  The hood is more or less rectangular and has 'fan' shaped
>gathers at the back, and may or may not have a drawstring to the hood,
>with the drawstrings tying at the top of the hood (which sounds awfully
>silly to me, so if I do make one I'll probably leave that off).  Instead
>of a clasp at the neck, most seem to tie with silk or wool ties.
>
>Is the Folkwear pattern a half-circle, or a rectangle gathered to the
>collar or hood?  Just curious!
>
>-- Mara
>
>_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 20 14:36:59 2002
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a cool new book
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 07:54:15 -0700
Status: RO

At 1:07 AM -0500 5/20/02, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I just wanted to tell people about this cool new book I got at Kalamazoo.
>http://www.upress.umn.edu/Books/D/deserps_various.html
>
>It's called "The Various Styles of Clothing" by François Deserps and 
>edited and translated by Sara Shannon.
>It is a facsimilie of a 1562 book written by Deserps.   The English 
>translation of the original title is "A Collection of the various 
>styles of clothing which are presently worn in countries of Europe, 
>Asia, Africa, and the savage islands, all realistically depicted."
>
>From the website:
>"Based on information Deserps claimed to have received from 
>travelers about the garments worn by people from distant lands, this 
>collection has been called the earliest book published in France on 
>ethnography and costume. It was originally intended to be read by 
>children, specifically the eight-year-old Henry of Navarre, the 
>future King Henry IV. In it, clerics, aristocrats, soldiers, 
>peasants, men, women, and even a few monsters are pictured in 121 
>woodcut illustrations, each accompanied by four lines of verse 
>describing some aspect of the person or clothing portrayed."
>
>The images are actually colored (look kind of like hand-tinted old 
>photos in terms of colors) and there are some VERY funky styles in 
>there.  For example: page 50 has a "French peasant woman" with a 
>diagonal fastening on her bodice...  Oh, and there are a couple of 
>odd completely fictional critters in there too. : )

It's also a great book for thinking about the reliability of visual 
sources.  The "monk of the sea" (a fishy creature draped in scaley 
and finny monk's robes) isn't likely to be mistaken by the researcher 
for a depiction of actual clothing.  And people might be suspicious 
of the "woman of Asia" who looks suspiciously German in her dress. 
But one regularly sees the plates entitled "the savage of Scotland" 
and "the savage [Scottish] captain" presented in books on the history 
of Scottish costume without doubt or qualification as representing 
actual historic styles.  Interestingly, there are two other plates 
identified as "the Scotsman" and "the Scotswoman" which I have never 
seen in Scottish costume surveys (quite possibly because they don't 
support the idea of Scottish costume that those books are trying to 
construct).

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:38:18 EDT
Status: RO

Hey, I found the following link by accident, while looking for feather 
plumes.:

http://www.aladdinslamp.net/costumes/parasols/parasols.html

Maybe that will help someone?  Anyway, I need rich plumes ASAP to make an 
Elizabethan feathered fan.  Anyone got links?  There were 2 styles at the 
time it seems: a) the always opened one with feathers glued to a pasteboard, 
and b) the brand-new folders.  I'm making style a, if that helps you figure 
out where to link me.

Thanks,
Gillian
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:48:57 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_23903218==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


While this is not in my dept., there are enough theatre folks here that 
hopefully someone will be happy to see this:

UC Davis Job Opportunity - VL# 021057
Theatre Production Supervisor
$2,725.00 - $4,633.33/Mo Final Filing Date 05-24-02
http://hr.ucdavis.edu/emp/jmvls/6739.htm



Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis

--=====================_23903218==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<br>
While this is not in my dept., there are enough theatre folks here that
hopefully someone will be happy to see this:<br><br>
<table border=0>
<tr><td width=296>UC Davis Job Opportunity - VL# 021057 <br>
Theatre Production Supervisor<td width=296></td></tr>
</table>
$2,725.00 - $4,633.33/Mo Final Filing Date 05-24-02 <br>
<a href="http://hr.ucdavis.edu/emp/jmvls/6739.htm" eudora="autourl">http://hr.ucdavis.edu/emp/jmvls/6739.htm</a><br><br>
<br><br>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis <br>
</b></html>

--=====================_23903218==_.ALT--

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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:53:06 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


--- Five Rivers <lgsteph@golden.net> wrote:
>  Was it used in North America?
> Don't know. Don't know of any extant examples. Would love to find out
> otherwise. If one is worried about historical accuracy I'd suggest sticking
> with a cloak such as the Kannik's Korner short cloak pattern.

For 18th c American recreation wear, I'd use Williamsburg's.  There's the
lovely book with patterns, construction info, fabric selection details and
large detailed color pictures of the original in their collection. The book is
Costume Closeup.  One of my favorites.

=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 20 18:18:55 2002
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From: Truly Biggs <trulinor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:08:13 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Try Ostriches Online or Zucker feathers

Zucker has a pretty big minimum - so you might want to see if anyone else
needs feathers.

Truly

--- Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> Hey, I found the following link by accident, while looking for feather 
> plumes.:
> 
> http://www.aladdinslamp.net/costumes/parasols/parasols.html
> 
> Maybe that will help someone?  Anyway, I need rich plumes ASAP to make
> an 
> Elizabethan feathered fan.  Anyone got links?  There were 2 styles at
> the 
> time it seems: a) the always opened one with feathers glued to a
> pasteboard, 
> and b) the brand-new folders.  I'm making style a, if that helps you
> figure 
> out where to link me.
> 
> Thanks,
> Gillian
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 20 18:42:12 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:31:42 -0700
Status: RO

You wan tHollywood Fancy Feathers.  Their web site is
http://www.hollywoodfancyfeather.com/

If you don't want to order on-line, don't worry, you can't. :) Loook thru 
the online catalog then give them a call.  All the info is on the site.  No 
affiliation, they just happen to be around the corner from me.

When Google kindly reminded me of that place, they also popped up a sidebar 
with this
http://www.ostrichfeathers.com

Apparently these guys are in Spain?! Prices are in U.S dollars.  I don't 
know anything about them, just stumbled over their address.  Feathers look 
nice, though :)


Have fun!

MaggiRos

>From: Azelana@aol.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
>Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:38:18 EDT
>
>Hey, I found the following link by accident, while looking for feather
>plumes.:
>
>http://www.aladdinslamp.net/costumes/parasols/parasols.html
>
>Maybe that will help someone?  Anyway, I need rich plumes ASAP to make an
>Elizabethan feathered fan.  Anyone got links?  There were 2 styles at the
>time it seems: a) the always opened one with feathers glued to a 
>pasteboard,
>and b) the brand-new folders.  I'm making style a, if that helps you figure
>out where to link me.
>
>Thanks,
>Gillian


_________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:31:42 -0700
Status: RO

You wan tHollywood Fancy Feathers.  Their web site is
http://www.hollywoodfancyfeather.com/

If you don't want to order on-line, don't worry, you can't. :) Loook thru 
the online catalog then give them a call.  All the info is on the site.  No 
affiliation, they just happen to be around the corner from me.

When Google kindly reminded me of that place, they also popped up a sidebar 
with this
http://www.ostrichfeathers.com

Apparently these guys are in Spain?! Prices are in U.S dollars.  I don't 
know anything about them, just stumbled over their address.  Feathers look 
nice, though :)


Have fun!

MaggiRos

>From: Azelana@aol.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
>Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:38:18 EDT
>
>Hey, I found the following link by accident, while looking for feather
>plumes.:
>
>http://www.aladdinslamp.net/costumes/parasols/parasols.html
>
>Maybe that will help someone?  Anyway, I need rich plumes ASAP to make an
>Elizabethan feathered fan.  Anyone got links?  There were 2 styles at the
>time it seems: a) the always opened one with feathers glued to a 
>pasteboard,
>and b) the brand-new folders.  I'm making style a, if that helps you figure
>out where to link me.
>
>Thanks,
>Gillian


_________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:30:40 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

> It sounds like that new virus that is going around playing tricks on you.
> It likes to pretend it is other people.

One virus that does this is the KLEZ.H virus.  Here's a link...

http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.h@mm.html

Check down in the "Notes" section.  What it does is changes the "from" line
so that the poor infected soul gets none of those bounceback messages when
another system detects a virus and notifies the sender, and makes some third
person (who's probably in the sender's address book) think they're infected.

If your antivirus is up to date and doesn't find anything, you're almost
certainly OK.

Susan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:05:39 -0600
Status: RO

Uh, Margo, I think they meant the *cloak,* not the hood, which is,
indeed, a big half-circle.  The cloak is a big rectangle.
--sue

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> >
> >Is the Folkwear pattern a half-circle, or a rectangle gathered to the
> >collar or hood?
> 
> No, it's a full circle, lined, with a double line of stitching through both
> layers about 4" in from the edge, through which drawstrings are run.  The
> result is a fairly clumsy ruffled effect.  The body is three panels of
> fabric, gathered into the neckline, which results in too much bulk at the
> neck, and not enought at the hem.  All in all, it's one ugly garment, and
> I've never understood its popularity.
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:49:42 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_114.11ab2306.2a1af3a6_boundary
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I remember when doing some Cavalier hats that we took 2 plumes, placed them 
on top of one another and hand sewed...tacked...them together as one. This 
gives you a lush full plume. I suggest you get twice as many as you think 
you'll need and do this. If I remember the look of the fans, you'll want 
smaller feathers, not long sweeping ones.

Have fun!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>I remember when doing some Cavalier hats that we took 2 plumes, placed them on top of one another and hand sewed...tacked...them together as one. This gives you a lush full plume. I suggest you get twice as many as you think you'll need and do this. If I remember the look of the fans, you'll want smaller feathers, not long sweeping ones.
<BR>
<BR>Have fun!</FONT></HTML>

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:33:06 -0700
Status: RO


>I remember when doing some Cavalier hats that we took 2 plumes, placed 
>them on top of one another and hand sewed...tacked...them together as one. 
>This gives you a lush full plume. I suggest you get twice as many as you 
>think you'll need and do this. If I remember the look of the fans, you'll 
>want smaller feathers, not long sweeping ones.

That technique goes at least as far back as the Renaissance.


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 23:42:38 -0400
Status: RO

The Folkwear Kinsale pattern that I have, which is a very old one, 
does not attach the cloak panels (3 rectangles) to a yoke- there's no 
yoke on it. They are gathered, or pleated (or cartridge pleated) 
into/onto the neck. I'll add that gathering them is not easy at all 
when velveteen is used, and I had much better results finishing the 
neck/collar, finishing the top of the cloak, then cartridge pleating 
the one to the other. Looks better, too. I've made 2 of them now, 
both of lined velveteen.

I agree the hood is rather silly and awkward, but it can look nice- 
though not opened and over the shoulders as a capelet- that looks 
really dumb to my eyes, especially since the lining is all exposed. 
Although I suppose if one wanted to do that, and used the button-on 
hood, one could button it on upside-down from the usual for that 
purpose and expose the outside instead...

I don't remember there being an optional yoke- there may be, or maybe 
it's on newer editions than mine. There was certainly a non-yoke 
version, though, since that's the one I've made twice now.

-Amanda
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:22:57 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 
> >I remember when doing some Cavalier hats that we took 2 plumes, placed 
> >them on top of one another and hand sewed...tacked...them together as one. 
> >This gives you a lush full plume. I suggest you get twice as many as you 
> >think you'll need and do this. If I remember the look of the fans, you'll 
> >want smaller feathers, not long sweeping ones.
> 
> That technique goes at least as far back as the Renaissance.
> 
> 
> Kayta

Not only that, make sure you get the male strich feathers, not the female ones.
The male ones are the proper ones, the female ones look thin and ratty. You can
find here all you ever need:

http://www.ostrichesonline.com/

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 00:30:07 -0700
Status: RO


> > >I remember when doing some Cavalier hats that we took 2 plumes, placed
> > >them on top of one another and hand sewed...tacked...them together as 
> one.
> > >This gives you a lush full plume. I suggest you get twice as many as you
> > >think you'll need and do this. If I remember the look of the fans, you'll
> > >want smaller feathers, not long sweeping ones.
> >
> > That technique goes at least as far back as the Renaissance.
> >
> >
> > Kayta
>
>Not only that, make sure you get the male strich feathers, not the female 
>ones.
>The male ones are the proper ones, the female ones look thin and ratty. 
>You can
>find here all you ever need:
>
>http://www.ostrichesonline.com/

Or I can go to the ostrich farm an hour south of here, or the one half an 
hour east of here.  I live in California.


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 21 03:51:38 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:41:15 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 

> >Not only that, make sure you get the male strich feathers, not the female 
> >ones.
> >The male ones are the proper ones, the female ones look thin and ratty. 
> >You can
> >find here all you ever need:
> >
> >http://www.ostrichesonline.com/
> 
> Or I can go to the ostrich farm an hour south of here, or the one half an 
> hour east of here.  I live in California.

We've got a farm here too (not only one) but I hate shopping! I'm the perfect
Internet shopping cient. :-))
Here's the UK web site:

http://www.ostrichesonline.co.uk

That reminds me, I have to get some, Ben's feathered hat got so awfully rained
upon the second time this weekend that it does look ratty by now. We were in
Cumbria.. the lake district is beautiful but oh my does it RAIN and STORM!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 01:56:50 -0700
Status: RO


> > Or I can go to the ostrich farm an hour south of here, or the one half an
> > hour east of here.  I live in California.
>
>We've got a farm here too (not only one)

When I visited Australia, almost 20 years ago, we were told we couldn't 
bring Ostrich feathers in because, since apparently they didn't ranch them, 
they were considered endangered, or indistinguishable from real 
endangered.  Do they ranch ostriches in Australia nowadays?

BTW, there's a restaurant in Davis, CA, where you can get ostrich burgers.


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 06:34:17 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, fine! Be that way....<ggg>
--Sue, who has to hang her ostrich feathers for her (future, Cranach)
hat from the ceiling so the cats don't get them....

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 

> Or I can go to the ostrich farm an hour south of here, or the one half an
> hour east of here.  I live in California.
> 
> Kayta
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:25:14 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Thanks, Nicole, I've been looking for a good site to order ostrich
feathers!  (No ostrich farms around here, that I know of...)

Speaking of which, does anyone know when pheasants were introduced into
Europe?  Someone told me they were an import from China, which means that
one shouldn't use pheasant feathers in one's headgear until a relatively
late date, but he didn't know the date when pheasants were introduced.

-- Mara


On Tue, 21 May 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:
> Not only that, make sure you get the male strich feathers, not the female ones.
> The male ones are the proper ones, the female ones look thin and ratty. You can
> find here all you ever need:
>
> http://www.ostrichesonline.com/
>
> Nicole

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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:37:59 BST
Status: RO

Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net> wrote :

> Speaking of which, does anyone know when pheasants were introduced into
> Europe?  Someone told me they were an import from China, which means that
> one shouldn't use pheasant feathers in one's headgear until a relatively
> late date, but he didn't know the date when pheasants were introduced.

A quick web-search suggests the Romans introduced them to western Europe. Some of the Cooks lists may know more. Of course, this will only tell us that they existed and were eaten, not that their feathers were commonly worn,  but it's a step forwards.




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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:32:37 -0400
Status: RO

Just for giggles-- my daughter in the bubble wrap skirt she wore to the prom.
I made it like an overskirt - it laced at the back with 3 grommets per side,
then was open the rest of the way down so she could split it to sit down and
not pop the bubbles
------------------------------------------------------------------------

>  [Image]  [Image]

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From: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:12:05 -0500
Status: RO


> > [hood is] a full circle, lined, with a double line of stitching through 
> both
> > layers about 4" in from the edge, through which drawstrings are run.  The
> > result is a fairly clumsy ruffled effect.

It looks great laying back over the shoulders (and provides a 2nd layer
of warmth there).   Agreed,  it is awkward if you want to USE the hood.
I don't.   I only pull it up to show people,   or if I get caught in the rain.
But I love the look  down over the shoulders.   It shows off my wine colored
lining.

>The body is three panels of
> > fabric, gathered into the neckline, which results in too much bulk at the
> > neck, and not enought at the hem.  All in all, it's one ugly garment, and
> > I've never understood its popularity.
> >
> > Margo
> > "One Tough Costumer"

LOL!!   I made one,  and I adore it!!   It helps that I used a lightweight
wool/poly blend.   It's "suit weight".    It makes a great spring/fall cloak,
and I *always*  get comments on it.

So --- to each her own!
I only recently pulled the pics off my web page (when they started enforcing
a size quota!)     Mebbe I should find them,  and put them back up....
Deb Baddorf

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From: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Folkwear patterns and the Kinsale Cloak
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:14:57 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:42 PM 5/20/2002 -0400, sustre@pixelations.com wrote:
>The Folkwear Kinsale pattern that I have, which is a very old one, does 
>not attach the cloak panels (3 rectangles) to a yoke- there's no yoke on 
>it......
>I don't remember there being an optional yoke- there may be, or maybe it's 
>on newer editions than mine. There was certainly a non-yoke version, 
>though, since that's the one I've made twice now.
>
>-Amanda

I agree.   I think what people are seeing as a yoke,   when they look at
Folkwear's online pics ....... it really the COLLAR.    It is a fairly 
large collar,
and lays down over the cloak itself.   But no yoke.
(caveat:   I bought my pattern 18 years ago or so.  But the cover pic is 
the same.)

And I ignore the "button on hood"  directions,  and just sewed the hood into
the collar,   along with the body of the cloak.     It worked, since I used
"suitweight"  wool,    and poly-silk  lining.

Deb Baddorf



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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:48:10 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I’ve never been able to track down a definitive origin of the Kinsale Cloak.

While it is reminiscent of 18th century cloaks, the hood is just too off from all the 18th century cloaks I’ve ever seen to originate during that period.  My theory is that it is a Victorian/Edwardian garment designed to look “Irish” created during the Celtic resurgence in the late 1800s/early 1900s.  The hood/shoulder cape is just too decorative to have been created as a practical item.  Regardless of its origin, it is a good cloak for general use.

Since my class at www.costumeclassroom.com was listed, I’ve been contacted by a woman living in Italy who said her grandmother used to stitch Kinsale Cloaks for others, and there was a family story that she was one of the ones who helped create the style.  She was going to check with her mother and get back to me but I haven’t heard from her since.

 If you don’t use thin fabrics the cloak does get rather bulky and wearing one can make you look like a potato.  However, all that fabric on the shoulders helps hold it in place and keep you warm.  If you wanted something without the bulk in the shoulders, you could easily modify the body of the cloak, or just use a half-circle with a lightly gathered neckline, and still keep the collar and hood.


Liz Gerds

PS  Thanks for the compliment Maggie!




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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:56:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Oh, I forgot to mention that the alternate hood and collar in my Kinsale Cloak pattern (the AlterYears one)are based on an illustration from "Dress in Ireland": 'The Irish Hood' by Daniel Maclise, dated 1837.

Liz Gerds


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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:03:59 -0700
Status: RO



> I’ve never been able to track down a definitive origin of the Kinsale Cloak.

Many years ago, before Folkwear ever published the Kinsdale Cloak pattern, I bought a very similar cloak from Ireland. It was from a mail-order catalog and advertised as a "traditional Irish style."  It is in red wool with a red satin lining.  While this doesn't say anything about the cloak's historical origins, it does say Folkwear didn't invent the style.

Fran

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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:45:17 -0700
Status: RO

At 9:25 AM -0400 5/21/02, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

>Speaking of which, does anyone know when pheasants were introduced into
>Europe?  Someone told me they were an import from China, which means that
>one shouldn't use pheasant feathers in one's headgear until a relatively
>late date, but he didn't know the date when pheasants were introduced.

The book 'Birds in Medieval Manuscripts" (Brunsdon Yapp, Schocken 
Books, New York, 1981) notes illustrations of pheasants (Phasianus 
colchicus)  in the SHerborne MIssal (ca. 1400), and possibly in the 
Smithfield Decretals and the Luttrell Psalter (both about 60 years 
earlier).  THere are French examples starting in the early 14th 
century (e.g., the Belleville Breviary ca. 1325).

The book notes that the Latin word "fasianus" appears in 8-10th 
century Anglo-Saxon vocabularies, but it is used there to gloss a 
word that appears to indicate the capercaillie, not the pheasant, and 
there is no evidence (according to the book) for pheasants in Britain 
that early.

The Latin word "fasianus" (or "phasianus") and its variants show up 
in a number of classical authors, e.g., Pliny, and the derivation of 
the word suggests a connection with Colchis in Asia Minor.  So while 
it may be that the species was originally native to China, the 
evidence suggests a gradual spread westward by Roman times, with 
extension throughout Europe by the 14-15th century.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: sustre@pixelations.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kinsale Cloak origin
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:21:38 -0400
Status: RO

Liz Gerds said:

>While it is reminiscent of 18th century cloaks, the hood is just too 
>off from all the 18th century cloaks I’ve ever seen to originate 
>during that period.  My theory is that it is a Victorian/Edwardian 
>garment designed to look “Irish” created during the Celtic 
>resurgence in the late 1800s/early 1900s.  The hood/shoulder cape is 
>just too decorative to have been created as a practical item. 
>Regardless of its origin, it is a good cloak for general use.

Thanks for sharing this information- it's really interesting! I do 
like the way it looks, and will probably get your version, too- the 
alternative hood sounds intriguing.

And if this theory of its origins is true, it means that my plans to 
make an Art Nouveau/Arts and Crafts style enameled clasp for mine are 
particularly appropriate!

-Amanda
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-bubble wrap dress
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:45:46 -0400
Status: RO

Oh Kate, please send me an image of her in the dress for the Costume Ball.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:51:39 -0400
Status: RO

Deb,

A remember a few years ago when you first put the photos on your site... so
proud of you!  And it looked great!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 13:24:35 -0400
Status: RO

In the past, I've bought a variety of the duck feathers and maribou (sp?) that Michaels and JoAnns sells for making fans for Ren. Faire.  Unfortunately, I've realized that my new character can have a similar fan, but I've got to do it without the fluffy feathers that mask the oddities in the feathers that do the work behind them for my new, non-gentry-type character.

So... the feathers that they carry won't work for what I need.. unless I get lucky and find some larger duck feathers (happens every couple blue moons or so).

Does anyone know of any good sources for duck/chicken/goose feathers around Baltimore or DC?  I'll even take a Philadelphia area source if I can't find something closer, it'll just take longer to get to my folks' house one trip or another this summer....


TIA,
-Elisabeth

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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:52:26 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_13529453==_.ALT
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Does anyone know if the Sat. evening Ball at Costume College is sold out yet?

Thanks


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California, Davis 
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Does anyone know if the Sat. evening Ball at Costume College is sold out
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<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font>University of California, Davis </b></html>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-bubble wrap dress
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:25:15 -0700
Status: RO

Funny you should mention that.  Last night I did a bubble-wrap jacket, for 
an up-coming panel I will be on at a science fiction convention, the 
subject being no-sew costumes.  I taped it together with packing tape, and, 
since I will only wear it once or twice ever, I don't care if I lose a few 
bubbles in the wearing.  I used some pink and some clear inch-bubble stuff.

>Just for giggles-- my daughter in the bubble wrap skirt she wore to the prom.
>I made it like an overskirt - it laced at the back with 3 grommets per side,
>then was open the rest of the way down so she could split it to sit down and
>not pop the bubbles
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> >  [Image]  [Image]

BTW, your images didn't arrive.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kinsale Cloak origin
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:35:06 -0700
Status: RO

There's a book of pictures of costumes, from some collection, that I think 
Laura Ashley put out a few years ago.  It includes costumes, historical 
images, and a section on fabric, with close-ups of the fabric itself.  I 
don't remember the title (my copy is still packed) but it had a photo of 
one of these cloaks in it, in bright red.

>>While it is reminiscent of 18th century cloaks, the hood is just too off 
>>from all the 18th century cloaks I've ever seen to originate during that 
>>period.  My theory is that it is a Victorian/Edwardian garment designed 
>>to look "Irish" created during the Celtic resurgence in the late 
>>1800s/early 1900s.  The hood/shoulder cape is just too decorative to have 
>>been created as a practical item. Regardless of its origin, it is a good 
>>cloak for general use.
>
>Thanks for sharing this information- it's really interesting! I do like 
>the way it looks, and will probably get your version, too- the alternative 
>hood sounds intriguing.
>
>And if this theory of its origins is true, it means that my plans to make 
>an Art Nouveau/Arts and Crafts style enameled clasp for mine are 
>particularly appropriate!


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Laura Ashley book info
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:51:01 -0700
Status: RO

Kayta writes:
> There's a book of pictures of costumes, from some collection, that I think
> Laura Ashley put out a few years ago.  It includes costumes, historical
> images, and a section on fabric, with close-ups of the fabric itself.  I
> don't remember the title (my copy is still packed) but it had a photo of
> one of these cloaks in it, in bright red.
> 

Here's the info on the book:

Fabric of society : a century of people and their clothes, 1770-1870 :
essays inspired by the collections at Platt Hall, The Gallery of English
Costume, Manchester
by Jane Tozer and Sarah Levitt ; photographs by Mark Cobley ; with a
foreword by Laura Ashley.
(Birmingham : Studio Press)
Gallery of English Costume
ISBN 0950891304

I believe it's out of print but it is a nice informative book.  Worth
picking up if you see it used and this is in your time period of interest.

Unlike most of the costume references it includes info on working peoples
dress.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 08:21:52 -0700
Status: RO



Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> > > Or I can go to the ostrich farm an hour south of here, or the one half an
> > > hour east of here.  I live in California.
> >
> >We've got a farm here too (not only one)
>
> When I visited Australia, almost 20 years ago, we were told we couldn't
> bring Ostrich feathers in because, since apparently they didn't ranch them,
> they were considered endangered, or indistinguishable from real
> endangered.  Do they ranch ostriches in Australia nowadays?
>

Yes, there are a few ostrich farms. But I suspect you're just as likely to find
emu
farms. I'm not sure how similar emu feathers are to ostrich feathers - I don't
recall seeing any (that weren't on an emu anyway)

Claire

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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:38:11 -0500
Status: RO

Hi everyone,

I have the very great opportunity to go to Ireland and tour for two weeks 
starting the 26th of this month.  My husband has given me control of where, 
when, and how.  Does anyone know where the clothes from the bog digs are 
kept?  and are they displayed anywhere?

If there is anywhere that is of particular interest, historical costume 
wise, please let me know.  We are going to Dublin for three days and intend 
to see Trinity College, the National Museum of Ireland (Kildare St.), and 
Millmount Museum, but are there any other places that we've missed?

Thanks in advance
Genie
Please change my address in your lists to the new one above.

^_^


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Subject: [h-cost] Online Costume Ball
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:00:07 -0400
Status: RO

Just a reminder... I do take entree's photos year round for the Online
Costume Ball 2002  www.onlinecostumeball.com .  We do take prom photos,
ballet, bridal, theatrical, fantasy (some people are sending in their Star
Wars costumes already), retro, carnival, and cute babies ... its your
Ball...  I am just the hostess and site designer.  For those new to the
list... the Online Ball starts every year on Sept. 30. This will be our five
year anniversary!!!!  We want to have a smashing Ball this year! So send me
your photos.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 11:03:36 -0400
Status: RO

by the way, if you have children, and want to see this movie, try looking on
cereal boxes (Golden Grahams, etc). They have vouchers inside that pay for a
child's admission. (when you have 4 children, you notice these things!) ;-}
Moira

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:26:49 +0200
Status: RO

I wish I could afford this pendant.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=871506464

Greetings,
        Deredere

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tudor jewelery on eBay
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 08:52:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote: > I wish I could
afford this pendant.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=871506464
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere

Don't worry and don't look on ebay, this is a pendant from Steve, and you can
find his site here:
http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Thanks for the link.
This is so beautifull.
       
        Deredere

N Kipar wrote:

> --- Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote: > I wish I could
>afford this pendant.
>
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=871506464
>>
>>Greetings,
>>        Deredere
>>
>
>Don't worry and don't look on ebay, this is a pendant from Steve, and you can
>find his site here:
>http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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Thanks for the link.<br>
This is so beautifull.<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere<br>
<br>
N Kipar wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:20020522075255.87267.qmail@web13303.mail.yahoo.com">
  <pre wrap=""> --- Deredere &amp; Owen Iskander <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:triade@kabelfoon.nl">&lt;triade@kabelfoon.nl&gt;</a> wrote: &gt; I wish I could<br>afford this pendant.<br></pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap=""><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=871506464">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=871506464</a><br><br>Greetings,<br>        Deredere<br></pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap=""><!----><br>Don't worry and don't look on ebay, this is a pendant from Steve, and you can<br>find his site here:<br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/">http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/</a><br><br>Nicole<br><br>=====<br>Nicole Kipar M.A.<br>Leader - L'Age d'Or &amp; Kirke's Lambs <br>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715<br>URL: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.kipar.org/">http://www.kipar.org/</a><br>Email: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:marquis@kipar.org">marquis@kipar.org</a><br><br>__________________________________________________<br>Do You Yahoo!?<br>Everything you'll ever need on one web page<br>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts<br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://uk.my.yahoo.com">http://uk.my.yahoo.com</a><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.
com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</a><br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume">http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume</a><br><br></pre>
    </blockquote>
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cumbria (WAS: parasols and feathers)
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:31:26 +0000 (GMT)
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> That reminds me, I have to get some, Ben's feathered hat got so >
> awfully rained upon the second time this weekend that it does look
> ratty by now. We were in Cumbria.. the lake district is beautiful
> but oh my does it RAIN and STORM! 

Nicole, honey, it *always* rains in Cumbria - it's part of it's charm.  
I've never been there a time when it didn't rain at some point during 
my visit.  The first time I was there for two weeks and the only time 
it didn't rain was the day we were away on a side-trip to Blackpool. 
It rained so much, that fortnight,  the fire-brigade were pumping 
water out of the cellars of the houses in Bowness on 
Windermere.... down the hill to fil up the cellars farther down....<G>

Still, it's a beautiful place for all that



  



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ireland trip
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:38:46 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Genie,

you should definitely go to Newgrange and see Bru na Boinne. Also, you MUST go
to the west coast is what I'd say, I absolutely loved Galway and I visited the
Aran islands as well, in particular Inishmore and Dun Angeus, it's
breathtaking; as well as the Cliffs of Moher.

Nicole

 --- Genie Larsen <genie@jb-av.com> wrote: > Hi everyone,
> 
> I have the very great opportunity to go to Ireland and tour for two weeks 
> starting the 26th of this month.  My husband has given me control of where, 
> when, and how.  Does anyone know where the clothes from the bog digs are 
> kept?  and are they displayed anywhere?
> 
> If there is anywhere that is of particular interest, historical costume 
> wise, please let me know.  We are going to Dublin for three days and intend 
> to see Trinity College, the National Museum of Ireland (Kildare St.), and 
> Millmount Museum, but are there any other places that we've missed?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Genie
> Please change my address in your lists to the new one above.
> 
> ^_^
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cumbria (WAS: parasols and feathers)
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:43:43 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> Nicole, honey, it *always* rains in Cumbria - it's part of it's charm.  

*laughs* Oh yes Teddy, ben had been there for re-enactments in years prior with
Regia Anglorum and they once had a ten day show at Brockhole. It rained so much
that they had to dig trenches around the tents because they started to float!

> I've never been there a time when it didn't rain at some point during 
> my visit. 

I ddn't believe it... but I do now! Nevertheless we'll be participating in the
Whitehaven maritime huge event next year in June, they asked us, and well,
theirphotos from two years prior (it takes place every two years and has lots
of tall ships (yummy!)) showed people in shorts under a belting SUN! *shock
horror*
We'll do appr 1700 I think, because of Jonahthan Swift and Daniel Defoe who
lived there. nice connection. reminds me I have to get more rainproofier
clothing... ;-)))

 The first time I was there for two weeks and the only time 
> it didn't rain was the day we were away on a side-trip to Blackpool. 

*laughs* sounds just like it.

> Still, it's a beautiful place for all that

It is indee and I highly recommend it to everyone. Have a lok at the official
Cumbria tourism board site:
http://www.cumbria-the-lake-district.co.uk/

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 22 05:38:28 2002
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 05:25:37 -0400
Status: RO

YEA!!!  We haven't had a website update on The Costume Gallery (
www.costumegallery.com) in awhile.  Susan and I have been working on so many
projects... well this weekend, we were determined to finish some.

The sites are accessible from the front of the Gallery under the "What's
New" column on the left.  Under the "A Year in Fashion"... we have two new
years... 1912 and 1921.  Some of our 1912 articles have been up a while but
they are all under one location for you to find easily.  BUT we do have a
new article for 1912... The Bride and the Bridal Party.  Susan did a
beautiful job on it.

My new section is A Year in Fashion: 1921.  This is the first article of
many to come for the year 1921.  AND this is the first of this series of
articles about fashion designers of a given year.  This article includes
illustrations of Paris fashion designers for the years. The designers
included
in this article are: Soulie, Mme. Havet of Agnes, Martial et Armand, Beer,
Jenny, Madeleine, Premet, and Worth.

You will need to have Javascript enabled on your browser to view these new
articles.  We added this to the articles to protect the images.

I hope you all enjoy the new sites.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 11:36:43 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Maggie Secara <maggiros@adelphia.net> wrote: > Is there a pic of this
dress somewhere?  I only saw a little of the movie,
> and can't remember anything good or bad about the clothes.  (I want to put
> it in the over-my-dead-body file :)
> 
> MaggiRos

Oh shoot, no, can't find a single picture and we had taped the film but taped
over it coz we didn't particularly enjoy it, sorry. Just think 'relatively
recent awful hollywood three musketeers film' and you are getting near.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:17:46 +0100
Status: RO

Nicole wrote:

>I ddn't believe it... but I do now! Nevertheless we'll be participating in the
>Whitehaven maritime huge event next year in June, they asked us, and >well, theirphotos from two years prior (it takes place every two years and >has lots of tall ships (yummy!)) showed people in shorts under a belting >SUN! *shock horror*
>We'll do appr 1700 I think, because of Jonahthan Swift and Daniel Defoe >who lived there. nice connection. reminds me I have to get more >rainproofier clothing... ;-)))

I didn't know Whitehaven were still doing reenactmernt events. I took part in one 25 years ago (aargh!) to commemorate the 1777 raid by John Paul Jones. The Sealed Knot wore borrowed 18th century film costumes for the event (there were fewer rival societies in those days).




 T

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:35:24 +0100 (BST)
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 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> 

> I didn't know Whitehaven were still doing reenactmernt events. I took part in
> one 25 years ago (aargh!) to commemorate the 1777 raid by John Paul Jones.
> The Sealed Knot wore borrowed 18th century film costumes for the event (there
> were fewer rival societies in those days).

No, they don't do re-enactment events. This is  a purely maritime event, last
year they had over 100.00o visitors. It's the Whitehaven Maritime Festival 2003
in Whitehaven Harbour. We have started to do quite a lot of maritime events
now, fascinating.

Nicole - tallyho

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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It is a great book.  I bought it through a used book service.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">It is a great book.&nbsp; I bought it through a used book service.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 08:04:20 -0600
Status: RO

Yeah, <g>, but *which one???*
--Sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
 Just think 'relatively
> recent awful hollywood three musketeers film' and you are getting near.
> 
> Nicole
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From: Shalazar <shalazar@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasols and feathers
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 07:25:21 -0700
Status: RO

  I have some have  large fans which need repairing

Whats the best way to dye Ostrich feathers?  Any tips for a person who
has never had any success dyeing?



Shalazar


"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to
learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable
for their apparent disinclination to do so."

 - Douglas Adams (1952-2001)    English novelist




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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 15:06:09 BST
Status: RO

Shalazar <shalazar@shaw.ca> wrote :

> I have some have  large fans which need repairing
> 
> Whats the best way to dye Ostrich feathers?  Any tips for a person who
> has never had any success dyeing?

"Ostriches Online" seem to sell a kit for the purpose, and some leaflets.

http://www.ostrichesonline.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=feather-index

Can't comment on how well they work, I just noticed them while browsing the other day.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 22 10:23:44 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dying tips
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 07:13:57 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I have some feather dying tips.

(My advice isn't going to make you happy.)

Getting the feather to take color is no problem. Call the Jaquard dye
people at Rupert Gibbon and Spider and ask them what to buy. They directed
me to some inexpensive acid dyes designed just for feathers. You do it on
the stove with some hot/warm/not boiling water.

Getting the the feather to ever look like anything else other than a
drowned rat is another matter entirely. I have tried air drying, oven
drying, hair-dryer drying and dryer drying. Result: Drowned rat feathers
in lovely colors. I tried distilled water, I tried Steaming them
afterward, I tried the cornstarch thing. Drowned Rat.

I emailed and called the feather people who had assured me this was
possible. They could not figure out what I was doing wrong. I tried a
different "brand" of feathers in case the processing was keeping the
feathers from fluffing. Still drowned rat.

It may be possible do get a feather to fluff back up afterward - but I did
not figure out how after weeks of trying.

My advice is - buy new feathers in the color you need.

Truly
--- Shalazar <shalazar@shaw.ca> wrote:
>   I have some have  large fans which need repairing
> 
> Whats the best way to dye Ostrich feathers?  Any tips for a person who
> has never had any success dyeing?
> 
> 
> 
> Shalazar
> 
> 
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to
> learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable
> for their apparent disinclination to do so."
> 
>  - Douglas Adams (1952-2001)    English novelist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lorna Doone
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 15:20:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

*LOL* the one with michael wincott as the evil one (yummy!) and whatsit name
from 'young guns' with the famous father. Uhm.... I know I know that probably
isn't of much help either. ;-)

Nicole
 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Yeah, <g>, but *which one???*
> --Sue
> 
> N Kipar wrote:
> > 
>  Just think 'relatively
> > recent awful hollywood three musketeers film' and you are getting near.
> > 
> > Nicole


=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:25:48 -0500
Status: RO

I am not certain that this will work for you but it did for me. We were
desperate to have 5 dyed feathers for a skit we were doing at work. It was
the founding fathers with a modern twist, hey we only had 3 minutes. Anyhow
since we did not have much of a budget (read: look in your pocket for
change) I grabbed the dry eraser markers and painted them as I held them.
They looked great and I still have them. I am not sure why it worked but it
worked.

The kids play with them now. They have endured quite a bit of playing. :)

Sincerely,
Franchesca Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 10:40:25 EDT
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In a message dated 5/22/2002 10:14:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
trulinor@yahoo.com writes:


> Result: Drowned rat feathers

You must preen them. Get a local bird to do it for you  :-P

Seriously, I've seen milliners comb the filament back into place wit a tiny 
pick...like an afro pick. I've just seen this, mind you, not done it.

Apparently the filaments have little "teeth" on them that when lined up 
correctly keep the feather in shape.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 5/22/2002 10:14:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time, trulinor@yahoo.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Result: Drowned rat feathers</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>You must preen them. Get a local bird to do it for you &nbsp;:-P
<BR>
<BR>Seriously, I've seen milliners comb the filament back into place wit a tiny pick...like an afro pick. I've just seen this, mind you, not done it.
<BR>
<BR>Apparently the filaments have little "teeth" on them that when lined up correctly keep the feather in shape.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] circa 1902 children's historic costuming
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 10:37:44 -0500
Status: RO

I'm currently making a a little girl porcelain doll. I'm hoping to have her
done by end of September for our local doll and ceramic show. The show's
theme is red, white, and blue/4th of July and I'm playing with several
ideas. Me being me I have to be different and not just one to dress a doll
in red, white, blue or flag material. One is finding illustrations of circa
1902 interpretations of historic costumes for children. I'd love to do
either a 1660's type dress("Ye Olde Neuwe York)or Colonial/1776/New
Republic. Since it is the 100th anniversary of the teddy bear and the
publication of "Peter Rabbit", I'd also like my child to push her pram with
a tiny Teddy Bear and Peter Rabbit book inside as if she were in a 4th of
July parade.

I can certainly fake a connivincing costume, but if anyone can point me to
books, illustrations, photos or other sources of circa 1900-1902 children in
historic masquerade-type costume, I'd be most grateful.
Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] circa 1902 children's historic costuming
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:02:18 EDT
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In a message dated 5/22/2002 11:42:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu writes:


> I can certainly fake a connivincing costume, but if anyone can point me to
> books, illustrations, photos or other sources of circa 1900-1902 children in
> historic masquerade-type costume, I'd be most grateful.
> 

Whoa...that's a specific request! Great idea! If you can find pattern books 
from the period, you may be onto something. But remember, they faked "a 
connivincing costume" back then too so, if you put yourself in that 1900 
frame of mind and design a masquerade costume [include the 1900 silhouette 
and types of trimmings and fabrics into you "period" design] you should come 
up with anything as "accurate" as they would've back then.

I remember seeing some 1920s Comedia del art costumes for children. They had 
the harlequin diamonds on them [in deco colors], the Harlequina having a 
dropped waist and low side hoops...a la 1920s.

I've also seen photos a famous actress from the 1870s as "Mrs. Malaprop".  
Many of the 18th century things were there, but the "stomacher" was curvy in 
the style of the 1870s corset and the "polonaise" was complicatedly draped 
like a bustle. The hair was high and powdered and the fabrics were printed 
with 18th century designs...though probably a little too large.

You can see what direction these kind of designs go.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 5/22/2002 11:42:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I can certainly fake a connivincing costume, but if anyone can point me to
<BR>books, illustrations, photos or other sources of circa 1900-1902 children in
<BR>historic masquerade-type costume, I'd be most grateful.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Whoa...that's a specific request! Great idea! If you can find pattern books from the period, you may be onto something. But remember, they faked "</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">a connivincing costume" </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">back then too so, if you put yourself in that 1900 frame of mind and design a masquerade costume [include the 1900 silhouette and types of trimmings and fabrics into you "period" design] you should come up with anything as "accurate" as they would've back then.
<BR>
<BR>I remember seeing some 1920s Comedia del art costumes for children. They had the harlequin diamonds on them [in deco colors], the Harlequina having a dropped waist and low side hoops...a la 1920s.
<BR>
<BR>I've also seen photos a famous actress from the 1870s as "Mrs. Malaprop". &nbsp;Many of the 18th century things were there, but the "stomacher" was curvy in the style of the 1870s corset and the "polonaise" was complicatedly draped like a bustle. The hair was high and powdered and the fabrics were printed with 18th century designs...though probably a little too large.
<BR>
<BR>You can see what direction these kind of designs go.</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 22 14:57:45 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] circa 1902 children's historic costuming
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 11:47:41 -0700
Status: RO

The book 'The Real Mother Goose' was done a little late, but you can see 
the teens doing colonial, medieval, etc. in it.  AlbertCat's right - do 
1902 in shape and colours, and distort the actual period details to fit.

>>I can certainly fake a connivincing costume, but if anyone can point me to
>>books, illustrations, photos or other sources of circa 1900-1902 children in
>>historic masquerade-type costume, I'd be most grateful.
>
>
>Whoa...that's a specific request! Great idea! If you can find pattern 
>books from the period, you may be onto something. But remember, they faked 
>"a connivincing costume" back then too so, if you put yourself in that 
>1900 frame of mind and design a masquerade costume [include the 1900 
>silhouette and types of trimmings and fabrics into you "period" design] 
>you should come up with anything as "accurate" as they would've back then.
>
>I remember seeing some 1920s Comedia del art costumes for children. They 
>had the harlequin diamonds on them [in deco colors], the Harlequina having 
>a dropped waist and low side hoops...a la 1920s.
>
>I've also seen photos a famous actress from the 1870s as "Mrs. 
>Malaprop".  Many of the 18th century things were there, but the 
>"stomacher" was curvy in the style of the 1870s corset and the "polonaise" 
>was complicatedly draped like a bustle. The hair was high and powdered and 
>the fabrics were printed with 18th century designs...though probably a 
>little too large.
>
>You can see what direction these kind of designs go.


Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Dummy Class
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:22:06 -0700
Status: RO


Just wanted to let everyone know that if they are interested in learning
the Paper Tape method of making a custom sewing dummy my class will be
starting in a week at;

http://www.costumeclassroom.com/

Just go to the instructors listing, and click on Stephen Bergdahl. 

In the class you will learn how to fit the foundation for the dummy, how
to wrap the tape, as well as ways of decorating your dummy, and some
ideas for stands.  The paper tape method is quick simple and easy to
do.  It's great for making a dummy of your customers so they don't have
to do as many fitting.  I look forward to seeing you in class.


Stephen Bergdahl
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 22 18:23:42 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] This is for the Barbie lovers
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:14:48 -0400
Status: RO

This one is on eBay... the auction closed and look how much it went for...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=866419376  Make sure you
see all of the auction.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] This is for the Barbie lovers
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 17:26:55 -0500
Status: RO

Oh my god!!! I cannot wait to see what she does for an encore on Thursday!
:)


Sincerely,
Franchesca Vecchio Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 5:14 PM
Subject: [h-cost] This is for the Barbie lovers


> This one is on eBay... the auction closed and look how much it went for...
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=866419376  Make sure
you
> see all of the auction.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 22 20:11:36 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tudor jewelery on eBay
In-Reply-To: <3CEB4839.9080709@kabelfoon.nl>
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 19:06:00 -0500
Status: RO

Actually, I just did a currency conversion - it works out cheaper to buy it 
directly from http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/  $59.99 works out to 41.0819 
GBP today.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:26 AM 5/22/2002 +0200, you wrote:
>I wish I could afford this pendant.
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=871506464
>
>Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 01:17:22 -0700
Status: RO

To the liste-

Okay, folks, there should be a new catagory on E-bay for things like
this: MORE MONEY THAN BRAINS.

Thanks for the hoot, Penny!!!

Theresa Eacker

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> This one is on eBay... the auction closed and look how much it went for...
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=866419376  Make sure you
> see all of the auction.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 08:10:04 -0600
Status: RO

Ya know, I'm no Barbie collector or anything (kinda grew out of it when
I was about 10), but that auction has to be one of the funniest things
I've seen in a long time.....think I'd pay the seller extra just for the
humor and effort put into the story line!
Thanks, Penny....
Sue, who *needed* a good laugh 

Theresa Eacker wrote:
> 
> To the liste-
> 
> Okay, folks, there should be a new catagory on E-bay for things like
> this: MORE MONEY THAN BRAINS.
> 
> Thanks for the hoot, Penny!!!
> 
> Theresa Eacker
> 
> Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >
> > This one is on eBay... the auction closed and look how much it went for...
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=866419376  Make sure you
> > see all of the auction.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu May 23 15:06:17 2002
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 14:55:56 EDT
Status: RO

<< I wish I could afford this pendant.
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=871506464>>

Me too, Deredere!  I went to their site a few weeks back when someone posted 
the link and that's the very thing I decided I _must_ have.  Unfortunately, I 
found it after Teddy (my fiance', not h-costume Teddy) finished his shopping 
for my birthday which is coming up June 11th.

--Gillian
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 15:13:05 EDT
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In a message dated 5/22/02 5:31:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< Don't worry and don't look on ebay, this is a pendant from Steve, and you 
can
 find his site here:
 http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/>>

Thanks for that link, Nicole!  That site is awesome.  Definitely adding it to 
my Places to Shop for wedding gifts.  (We're not doing a formal registry.)

--Gillian
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 15:34:30 EDT
Status: RO

<< We'll do appr 1700 I think, because of Jonahthan Swift and Daniel Defoe who
 lived there. nice connection. reminds me I have to get more rainproofier
 clothing... ;-)))
  >>

Scotchguard spray the hell out of whatevever your outer layer is  -- cloak or 
coat.  I used 3 coats initially, letting dry thoroughly between each coat, on 
my hooded cloak for LARPing.  Then after every 3-day event where it rained, I 
spray it down with one coat once the outside is dry.  Other players always 
wondered how my hair could be totally dry when they were soaked through to 
their underwear. *g*

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: dying feathers
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 15:42:02 EDT
Status: RO

<< Whats the best way to dye Ostrich feathers?  Any tips for a person who
 has never had any success dyeing?>>

www.ostrichesonline.com    had special dyes for sale, and there's a bit of 
info about bleaching them first and stuff.  I've never tried to dye feathers, 
myself, so I've no idae how hard it is.

--Gillian
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 15:51:19 EDT
Status: RO

<< Getting the feather to take color is no problem. [snippage] You do it on
 the stove with some hot/warm/not boiling water.
 
 Getting the the feather to ever look like anything else other than a
 drowned rat is another matter entirely. >>

Ok, I've never tried to dye feathers before, so maybe my idea will totally 
not work.  That said... Maybe you could try laying the dry feather flat 
between 2 layers of petticoat net, and tying or sewing the layers together at 
the edges BEFORE dying.  Then,  insert it into the dyewater that way.  I 
believe it would prevent the feather from curling in on itself, so it should 
look less drowned afterwards.  Please, if anyone tries this, I wanna know if 
it works!

--Gillian
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 16:32:32 EDT
Status: RO

Oh, Penny!  I can't stop laughing!  I forwarded the link to all my friends, 
then I remembered you writing something about how much it sold for, so I had 
to go back and look.  I don't know who's more nuts --the seller or the buyer!

--Gillian, who had a bad day yesterday and is so grateful for the pickmeup
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] This is for the Barbie lovers
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 19:11:59 -0400
Status: RO

If you read near the bottom of the auction, this person was in an auction
contest for the most bazaar auction.

The funniest part was the disclaimer... in *itty bitty* print.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 19:40:26 -0400
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Oh, I am so glad you had a good laugh over this!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:12:51 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. That item is made by Steve Millingham of www.pewterreplicas.com.
Check his site, it might be a better price. There is a pair of earrings
to go with it.  Mike T.



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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 22:26:45 -0500
Status: RO

Well, the communityzero group is different from the Indra list.  You have 
to register at communityzero for the HCostume fabric sell or swap.  So, 
other than that I have no idea what you're asking about.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:16 PM 5/22/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>OK, it says I am not on file...so how am i getting this list?
>--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 24 00:34:07 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Online Prom
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 00:24:44 -0400
Status: RO

I wanted to through an idea past you all... what do you think about me
having an online prom?  People send in their photos for prom in the
Spring... kinda like the Online Costume Ball but in the Spring.  We could
also have a vintage area... people prom photos that are older than five
years.

I value your opinion... so please write me privately about what you think
about the idea. penny@costumegallery.com

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tudor jewelery on eBay
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:16:07 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote: > Hi. That item is made by Steve
Millingham of www.pewterreplicas.com.
> Check his site, it might be a better price. There is a pair of earrings
> to go with it.  Mike T.

Mike, I already sent the link, and the name, and the info days ago...
*laughs*

Nicole 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: weatherproofing & thin/drapey black wool
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:17:56 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Azelana@aol.com wrote: > 
> Scotchguard spray the hell out of whatevever your outer layer is  -- cloak or
> 
> coat.  I used 3 coats initially, letting dry thoroughly between each coat, on
> 
> my hooded cloak for LARPing.  Then after every 3-day event where it rained, I
> 
> spray it down with one coat once the outside is dry.  

Thanks Gillian, that's a super idea! *thwaps own forehead*
Why did  never think of it, instead of risking the good frabics just scotchguad
the blooming cloak.

I have a question though, does anyone know of a source (online preferrably) for
soft thin drapey black wol? I only need a little bit, for an over-hood over the
white linen one, itmustn't be too heavy because it squashes everything
otherwise. Any deas?

Nicole - hoping, coz she needs the wool soon

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 24 22:48:02 2002
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 22:38:36 EDT
Status: RO

OK I have a roommate who has successfully dyed feathers.  Oh the advantages 
of growing up in the country and having a mother who is into dying.

What they found to be the best method that kept the feather from becoming 
fuzzy was putting the dye solution in a spray bottle and spray your feathers. 
 Do not get them really wet.  She says it can take up to 6 or 7 sprayings to 
get the feathers to take the dye.  The trick is you have to let it dry 
between the sprayings.
Her mother found this in a milliners book.

My housemate has done this so I am passing on how it worked for her.

Good Luck

Osmondia
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Subject: [h-cost] Roman British cross-dressing
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 13:18:18 -0700
Status: RO

Now here's an interesting grave find.  The cult of Cybele in the 
hinterlands.

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/printFriendly/0,,1-2-303373,00.html

MaggiRos






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Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 15:08:19 -0700
Status: RO

To Maggie-

Thanks for the fascinating article. Interesting about the leap, by the
researchers, to "eunuch" from a male adorned in female jewelry - seems
like a few intermediary steps were left out.

Theresa Eacker

Maggie Secara wrote:
> 
> Now here's an interesting grave find.  The cult of Cybele in the
> hinterlands.
> 
> http://www.timesonline.co.uk/printFriendly/0,,1-2-303373,00.html
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman British cross-dressing
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 16:39:59 -0700
Status: RO

At 3:08 PM -0700 5/25/02, Theresa Eacker wrote:
>To Maggie-
>
>Thanks for the fascinating article. Interesting about the leap, by the
>researchers, to "eunuch" from a male adorned in female jewelry - seems
>like a few intermediary steps were left out.

Yes, although it's possible that they were left out of the article, 
but not out of the research.  (E.g., there may be skeletal features 
that would be consistent with the conclusion.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: [h-cost] What I decided for feathers...
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 20:28:46 EDT
Status: RO

Everyone, 

Thanks for the links.  I ended up going with ostrichesonline.com.  After 
realizing just how long it's been since I've bought feathers (and how much 
the price rose in the meantime) I decided I could never afford to make my fan 
as nice as I wanted it within my $100 dress budget.  So I got creative.  

I found they sold dusters made of ostrich at that site in different sizes and 
handle materials, in natural black, grey, or white.  The one I bought is a 
black-feathered duster with 10" plumes, pic at URL below.: 

http://www.ostrichesonline.com/pictures/duster/dust-ost-thb-45-blk-big.jpg

There was also an option to buy dyed drab feathers for very cheap.  I got 
some  9-10" drabs in bleached white (6 of those) and burgundy (7) for only 59 
cents each, to have all three colors of my dress on the fan.  (Although now 
they are listed as $1.03 each, so maybe it was a sale or they updated?).   I 
figured I could fan the duster out on a pasteboard and add the dyed plumes to 
the outside to get something thick enough.  

Well, the order came last night, and I'm thrilled.  The duster is actually  
_too full_  even without the extra plumes I bought, so I'll have a bunch of 
natural black feathers left over for something else.  It also has a finished 
wooden handle that I like very much and will definitely keep on the fan, 
maybe just adding a gem here and there.  The drabs are a fluffy 5-6 inches 
wide!  Best feather I've ever bought for 59 cents!  *smile*  To tell you the 
truth, the 13 dyed drabs would have been enough to make a fan by themselves.

Anyway, their customer service was very prompt and did exactly what I asked 
them, and even with 3-day priority shipping and express processing my total 
was only $30.  So, I totally recommend them  to you all.

Time to go make my fan...

--Gillian
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman British cross-dressing
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 12:47:29 -0700
Status: RO



Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> At 3:08 PM -0700 5/25/02, Theresa Eacker wrote:
> >To Maggie-
> >
> >Thanks for the fascinating article. Interesting about the leap, by the
> >researchers, to "eunuch" from a male adorned in female jewelry - seems
> >like a few intermediary steps were left out.
>
> Yes, although it's possible that they were left out of the article,
> but not out of the research.  (E.g., there may be skeletal features
> that would be consistent with the conclusion.)
>

A bit further down in the article it does actually say there is no firm
evidence to support saying he was a eunuch except that he was buried with
two pebbles in his mouth....

Claire

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Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 09:39:39 +0100
Status: RO

>Yes, although it's possible that they were left out of the article,
but not out of the research.  (E.g., there may be skeletal features
that would be consistent with the conclusion.)

Archaeology is going away from the waffle in press releases & being more
definate, it is more sexy & makes the news better :) As far as I've heard it
was an assumption

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman British cross-dressing
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 10:40:17 -0700
Status: RO

At 12:47 PM -0700 5/26/02, Claire Clarke wrote:
>Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>
>>  At 3:08 PM -0700 5/25/02, Theresa Eacker wrote:
>>  >To Maggie-
>>  >
>>  >Thanks for the fascinating article. Interesting about the leap, by the
>>  >researchers, to "eunuch" from a male adorned in female jewelry - seems
>>  >like a few intermediary steps were left out.
>>
>>  Yes, although it's possible that they were left out of the article,
>>  but not out of the research.  (E.g., there may be skeletal features
>>  that would be consistent with the conclusion.)
>>
>
>A bit further down in the article it does actually say there is no firm
>evidence to support saying he was a eunuch except that he was buried with
>two pebbles in his mouth....
>

Which -- depending on the known context of pebble-in-mouth burials -- 
could be anything between a shaky guess and the equivalent of a 
tombstone saying "So-and-so the eunuch".  (I'm not familiar with the 
literature on the topic, although I've noticed in passing several 
recent studies on eunuchs in Roman and sub-Roman Europe.)

But it's much better than "we think he's a eunuch because otherwise 
why would he be buried with women's jewelry"!

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 11:20:22 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Explorator just put out their latest issue.  Here are _all_ the versions
of the story that they could find:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/uk/england/newsid_1999000/1999734.stm
http://www.itechnology.co.za/index.php?click_id=31&art_id=qw102198438146B
241&set_id=1
http://www.nandotimes.com/healthscience/story/409012p-3260401c.html
http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/ap/20020521/ap_on_re_eu/br
itain_roman_eunuch_2
http://www.ananova.com/news/story/sm_592309.html
http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,3604,719756,00.html
http://www.iol.co.za/index.php?click_id=588&art_id=qw102198438146B241&set
_id=1
http://www.reuters.com/news_article.jhtml?type=humannews&StoryID=989180
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/storydisplay.cfm?storyID=2042615&thesection=new
s&thesubsection=world

Remember, links that wrap more than one line must be copied and pasted in
pieces to get a working URL.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 00:04:50 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks for the scads of news links!!!

Theresa Eacker
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dying tips
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:08:18 +0100
Status: RO

I have to ask this. folks, as it's a word that often crops up on the list.
Everybody has been solemnly discussing "dying feathers", which looks really weird to me. Is the distinction between dying/dyeing not made in American English, or has everyone just been too polite to correct the spelling mistake?

Yours pedantically :-)


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dying tips
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:58:01 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > 
> weird to me. Is the distinction between dying/dyeing not made in American
> English, or has everyone just been too polite to correct the spelling
> mistake?
> 
> Yours pedantically :-)

*laughs* actually, that's really a challenge for any foreign English writer. I
have made that exact same mistake over and over again and corrected it over and
over again, because 'dying' when meaning 'dyeing' just looked too odd. I am
still not sure if it is 'useable' or 'usable' ;-)
I am intrigued to know too though, if there is a difference in American
spelling, as is with such lovely words as centre and theatre.

Nicole - shocked every time hearing Scully or Mulder saying 'duty' instead of
'djuty' :-))) It sounds so odd!

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dying tips
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 05:28:45 -0400
Status: RO

The last time I corrected anyone's spelling, I was made to feel like the
Spelling Police. As my lousy typing often overrides my excellent spelling, I
don't bother anymore. I only freak out now when people insist on removing
the second N from my name.

Smiles

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dying tips


> I have to ask this. folks, as it's a word that often crops up on the list.
> Everybody has been solemnly discussing "dying feathers", which looks
really weird to me. Is the distinction between dying/dyeing not made in
American English, or has everyone just been too polite to correct the
spelling mistake?
>
> Yours pedantically :-)
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 27 06:12:28 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] late Gothic/Renaissance stockade in Dalmatia
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:11:02 +0200
Status: RO

Hello HCostume-Fellows,


in addition to a previous announcement about Ren. portraits, web-presented at
http://zupanija.sibenik.museum/portreti/portret-g01.html

here is a stockade for the selected portraits - a "jpeg" picture and 
(rather big) "mpeg" video clip. Look at
http://zupanija.sibenik.museum/izlozba.html

Enjoy!

Jadran Kale
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
    @  http://zupanija.sibenik.museum
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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From: Shalazar <shalazar@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dying tips
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 03:53:28 -0700
Status: RO

Well I first asked the question and looking back I did spell it right.
However from the answers I got (none of which I can try yet, till I can
afford the feathers) it would seem like dying  or dead feathers is
probably what I am going to get as a result of all my work. ;-)


I had no idea they were so expensive and I do need quite a few plumes. I
did find out that there is an Ostriche farm out in the  valley near
Vancouver so at least I now know enough to ask for male feathers. Then I
am going to try spraying the colour (Canadian spelling ;)  ) on  first.
That sounds easiest.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, I saved them all.

Shalazar.

--
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to
learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable
for their apparent disinclination to do so."

 - Douglas Adams (1952-2001)    English novelist


"Throughout history,
 it has been the inaction of those who could have acted;
 the indifference of those who should have known better;
 the silence of the voice of justice when it mattered most;
 that has made it possible for evil to triumph."

` -Haile Selassie


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dying tips
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 08:15:29 +0000
Status: RO

It's "dyeing" in American English too. :)


				Arlys

"The Americans haven't spoken English for years!" - from My Fair Lady

On Mon, 27 May 2002 09:08:18 +0100 "Kate M Bunting"
<K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> writes:
> I have to ask this. folks, as it's a word that often crops up on the 
> list.
> Everybody has been solemnly discussing "dying feathers", which looks 
> really weird to me. Is the distinction between dying/dyeing not made 
> in American English, or has everyone just been too polite to correct 
> the spelling mistake?
> 
> Yours pedantically :-)
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
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> h-costume mailing list
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Subject: [h-cost] What is a "corsage ornament"?
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:53:52 -0400
Status: RO

I recently got a book of Art Nouveau jewelry, and am puzzled about 
one of the terms. What is a "corsage ornament", and how does it 
differ, in construction or use, from a brooch? They often seem 
larger, but not always, which makes me suspect that the difference is 
in how they're worn- but I'd like to know more.

Thanks!

-Amanda
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What is a "corsage ornament"?
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:34:32 -0500
Status: RO

The "corsage" is simply the bodice of the dress, usually a separate
piece from the skirt, but not necessarily.

I haven't run across the term "corsage ornament" before. Let me know if
you find out anything about it.

Kim

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Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 11:54 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What is a "corsage ornament"?

I recently got a book of Art Nouveau jewelry, and am puzzled about 
one of the terms. What is a "corsage ornament", and how does it 
differ, in construction or use, from a brooch? They often seem 
larger, but not always, which makes me suspect that the difference is 
in how they're worn- but I'd like to know more.

Thanks!

-Amanda
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is a "corsage ornament"?
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As far as I know, a "corsage ornament" would be a piece of jewelry, like an 
ornate brooch, worn on the stomacher of the gown. 

Kathleen Norvell

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">As far as I know, a "corsage ornament" would be a piece of jewelry, like an ornate brooch, worn on the stomacher of the gown. <BR>
<BR>
Kathleen Norvell</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: dye-ing feathers
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:42:33 EDT
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<< Everybody has been solemnly discussing "dying feathers", which looks 
really weird to me. Is the distinction between dying/dyeing not made in 
American English, or has everyone just been too polite to correct the 
spelling mistake? >>

Sorry, Kate, I am dyslexic (really).  I hit the spell-check, but since dying 
is a real word, it wasn't picked up.

--Gillian
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Subject: [h-cost] tip to rejuvenate feathers
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:55:10 EDT
Status: RO


I just took an eyebrow brush to some of my less-attractive feathers from the 
duster and it made quite a difference!  You might rejuvenate those 
drowned-rat looking ones the same way.  Lay the feather on a smooth surface.  
Use the comb side of the brush to detangle if necessary, then brush outward 
from the feather shaft with the bristle side.

--Gillian
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tip to rejuvenate feathers
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 17:52:54 -0700
Status: RO

You can also try steam.  Hold the feather over the steam from a tea kettle 
and, if it's not too far gone, it should perk up.  This won't work if the 
feather is "burnt".

What I'm looking for is a good way to clean turkey  or chicken feathers that 
have gotten grimy.  Just swishing them in Woolite doesn't seem to cut it.  I 
have some "quill pens" (a ball point refill stuck in a feather) that have 
spent too much time outdoors in the dust and indoors near the kitchen.  Any 
ideas?


MaggiRos



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 27 21:02:42 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tip to rejuvenate feathers
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 17:52:54 -0700
Status: RO

You can also try steam.  Hold the feather over the steam from a tea kettle 
and, if it's not too far gone, it should perk up.  This won't work if the 
feather is "burnt".

What I'm looking for is a good way to clean turkey  or chicken feathers that 
have gotten grimy.  Just swishing them in Woolite doesn't seem to cut it.  I 
have some "quill pens" (a ball point refill stuck in a feather) that have 
spent too much time outdoors in the dust and indoors near the kitchen.  Any 
ideas?


MaggiRos



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Subject: [h-cost] Mourning clothes for reenactment
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:06:14 -0700
Status: RO

I know some of the American Civil War reenactors like to wear
mourning. But do people like to wear it for other parts of the
Victorian era?

Thanks for any info,

Fran

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Subject: [h-cost] Student needs help
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 15:52:51 -0400
Status: RO

There is a person who lives in the Dallas, Texas area who is wanting to take
our Clone Yourself Paper Tape Dressform class that starts next week.  The
class requires that you have another person assist by putting the tape on
them.  She does not have another person to help her.  So I am putting out a
call to see if there is someone in the Dallas area who is willing to help
her.  Never know you might learn how to make one for yourself.  Also this
person has a masters in flat pattern drafting.  If you think you can help
her, please contact me personally at penny@costumegallery.com

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon May 27 21:53:35 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Folkwear reprints
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 13:41:08 -0700
Status: RO


--=====================_105486609==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

I sent a note to Earth Guild asking if the Poiret Cocoon Coat was being 
reprinted (No, dammit!), and here's the reply I got.


>Reply-To: "catalog" <catalog@earthguild.com>
>From: "catalog" <catalog@earthguild.com>
>To: <betsy.perry@oracle.com>
>Subject: folkwear
>Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:48:18 -0400
>Organization: Earth Guild
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4807.1700
>
>Hello,
>  Thank you for your email.  While it is true, Folkwear has a new owner; 
> it is not Earth Guild.  There is a local person here in Asheville that 
> has purchased it, and is in process of reprinting some 
> patterns.  Unfortunately that particular coat you speak of is not one of 
> them. We expect (7) reprinted patterns to be back in stock in the first 
> half of June 2002:
>ptF113 Japanese Kimono;
>ptF114 Chinese Jacket;
>ptF119 Sarouelles;
>ptF135 Jewels of India;
>ptF139 Vietnamese Ao-Dai;
>ptF207 Kinsale Cloak;
>ptF264 Monte Carlo Dress.
>If you have any other questions, please feel free to email us again or 
>call direct at 800-327-8448.
>Thanks,
>VG for Earth Guild

Be well, do good work, and keep in touch.  - G. Keillor
Betsy Hanes Perry  betsy.perry@oracle.com
--=====================_105486609==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
I sent a note to Earth Guild asking if the Poiret Cocoon Coat was being
reprinted (No, dammit!), and here's the reply I got.<br><br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Reply-To: &quot;catalog&quot;
&lt;catalog@earthguild.com&gt;<br>
From: &quot;catalog&quot; &lt;catalog@earthguild.com&gt;<br>
To: &lt;betsy.perry@oracle.com&gt;<br>
Subject: folkwear<br>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:48:18 -0400<br>
Organization: Earth Guild<br>
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4807.1700<br><br>
<font face="Comic Sans MS" size=2>Hello, </font><br>
<font face="Comic Sans MS" size=2>&nbsp;Thank you for your email.&nbsp;
While it is true, Folkwear has a new owner; it is not Earth Guild.&nbsp;
There is a local person here in Asheville that has purchased it, and is
in process of reprinting some patterns.&nbsp; Unfortunately that
particular coat you speak of is not one of them. We expect (7) reprinted
patterns to be back in stock in the first half of June 2002: <br>
ptF113 Japanese Kimono; <br>
ptF114 Chinese Jacket; <br>
ptF119 Sarouelles; <br>
ptF135 Jewels of India; <br>
ptF139 Vietnamese Ao-Dai; <br>
ptF207 Kinsale Cloak; <br>
ptF264 Monte Carlo Dress.</font><br>
<font face="Comic Sans MS" size=2>If you have any other questions, please
feel free to email us again or call direct at 800-327-8448.</font><br>
<font face="Comic Sans MS" size=2>Thanks, <br>
VG for Earth Guild</font></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Be well, do good work, and keep in touch.&nbsp; - G. Keillor<br>
Betsy Hanes Perry&nbsp; betsy.perry@oracle.com</html>

--=====================_105486609==_.ALT--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 28 00:54:39 2002
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 00:45:38 EDT
Status: RO

OK my roommate gave me an idea for this.

Dry hair shampoo will work, just follow the directions.

Another way is take paper bag put a layer of baking soda in it and then the 
feather.  Shake bag and take feather out and brush it with another feather to 
remove the baking soda ... this will remove the grim from the feather.  Then 
you can recondition it over steam to shape.  The grim should come out with 
the baking soda.

The advantages of having a housemate who was in FHA for years,
Osmondia
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 07:53:06 +0100
Status: RO

On 27 May 2002 at 12:34, Kim Baird wrote:

> The "corsage" is simply the bodice of the dress, usually a separate
> piece from the skirt, but not necessarily.
> 
> I haven't run across the term "corsage ornament" before. Let me know if
> you find out anything about it.

I've heard the term used to describe a brooch-type 
thing designed to hold a small bunch of flowers, the 
bunch being described as a "corsage". Don't know if 
that would make sense in this context?


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spellings (WAS:Feather dying tips)
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:01:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


>  --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > 
> > weird to me. Is the distinction between dying/dyeing not made in
> > American English, or has everyone just been too polite to correct
> > the spelling mistake?
> > 
> > Yours pedantically :-)
> 
> *laughs* actually, that's really a challenge for any foreign English
> writer. I have made that exact same mistake over and over again and
> corrected it over and over again, because 'dying' when meaning
> 'dyeing' just looked too odd. I am still not sure if it is 'useable'
> or 'usable' ;-) I am intrigued to know too though, if there is a
> difference in American spelling, as is with such lovely words as
> centre and theatre.

Speaking as someone who never learned to spell very well 
(couldn't read until I was eleven when they discovered that I'm 
*very* short sighted and never caught up to the spelling side of 
things) and with e-mail being such an "as and when" thing for me, I 
tend towards just typing the message and if it's not spelt quite right, 
as long as people can read it it's close enough.  I don't have the 
time (nor the inclination, to look up every other word in a dictionary 
or to cut and paste everything from a WP doccument, where it 
could be run through a spell checker, into this e-mail system, 
where it could if the bloody thing would ever work,  before sending it)

There are differences in the use of English by Americans that irk 
me too, Kate - the use of "their"  when they mean "they're", or "you" 
when they mean "your" or any number of others, for instance) but 
it's not going to change so I just skim over it, and leave the pedants 
to their own devices with my own spelling (and repeat typo) 
problems...<G>

Teddy
(who doesn'#t mind correctins being made for incorrectly spelled 
words but has been annoyed in the past by American editors 
changing the spelling, and even the *words* used, in pieces he has 
written for international publications to the American usage and/or 
term because of the assumption that the *American* readers 
would find it easier to understand that way and everyone else will 
understand the American way because America is, of course, The 
World)

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spellings (WAS:Feather dying tips)
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:12:21 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> Teddy
> (who doesn'#t mind correctins being made for incorrectly spelled 
> words but has been annoyed in the past by American editors 
> changing the spelling, and even the *words* used, in pieces he has 
> written for international publications to the American usage and/or 
> term because of the assumption that the *American* readers 
> would find it easier to understand that way and everyone else will 
> understand the American way because America is, of course, The 
> World)

*shakes head and snorts* That happened to me too! I even get mails from
Americans saying that my web site's English isn't American English. EXACTLY!!!!
I am so very proud to be European. Shush, the world is big, and there are lots
of languages out there.

Nicole - seriously typo-challenged and dyscalcic. ;-)

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is a "corsage ornament"?
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 00:24:26 -0700
Status: RO


>I recently got a book of Art Nouveau jewelry, and am puzzled about one of 
>the terms. What is a "corsage ornament", and how does it differ, in 
>construction or use, from a brooch? They often seem larger, but not 
>always, which makes me suspect that the difference is in how they're worn- 
>but I'd like to know more.

A "corsage ornament" is more like a permanent piece of decoration which 
belongs to one dress, in the same sense as a beaded applique the designer 
sewed on there.  Victorian retail catalogs show "corsage ornaments" that 
are beaded, or lace, pieces which would be sewn on.  To me, brooch implies 
that the piece didn't come with any one dress or wasn't designed to go with 
a specific dress.  I believe I have seen Georgian "corsage ornaments" of 
jewelry, and I would assume they were sewn onto one dress rather than moved 
from dress to dress like a brooch.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spellings (WAS:Feather dying tips)
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 06:27:39 -0400
Status: RO

> There are differences in the use of English by Americans that irk
> me too, Kate - the use of "their"  when they mean "they're", or "you"
> when they mean "your" or any number of others, for instance) but
> it's not going to change so I just skim over it, and leave the pedants
> to their own devices with my own spelling (and repeat typo)
> problems...<G>
the examples you've used are *not* examples of  "american" english, they're
examples of relying too much on the spell check and plain old lazy grammer.
the words you've used  mean the same thing on this side of the pond as on
yours.
laurie 
> Teddy

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 06:39:42 -0400
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Teddy" <> There are differences in the use of English by Americans
that irk
> me too, Kate - the use of "their"  when they mean "they're", or "you"
> when they mean "your" or any number of others, for instance)

Teddy, that is not an Americanism. It's incorrect over here, too. The other
one that bugs the bejeebies out of me is the substitution of "loose" for
"lose". I want to lose weight, not loose it.

The problem is, many people spell phonetically, and that just doesn't work
for English!  LOL!

Dianne
also pedantic

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 04:19:45 -0700
Status: RO


>Another way is take paper bag put a layer of baking soda in it and then the
>feather.  Shake bag and take feather out and brush it with another feather to
>remove the baking soda ... this will remove the grim from the feather.  Then
>you can recondition it over steam to shape.  The grim should come out with
>the baking soda.

I was told to use corn starch, same method, same effect.  Corn starch works 
for me.

BTW, grim is like unhappy, and pronounced the same as Grimm fairy tales. 
(The two Grimm brothers collected fairy tales in the early 1800's.)  Grime 
is the icky stuff you're trying get out of the feathers.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spellings (WAS:Feather dying tips)
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 04:22:51 -0700
Status: RO


>From: "Teddy" <> There are differences in the use of English by Americans
>that irk
> > me too, Kate - the use of "their"  when they mean "they're", or "you"
> > when they mean "your" or any number of others, for instance)
>
>Teddy, that is not an Americanism. It's incorrect over here, too. The other
>one that bugs the bejeebies out of me is the substitution of "loose" for
>"lose". I want to lose weight, not loose it.
>
>The problem is, many people spell phonetically, and that just doesn't work
>for English!  LOL!

Since when is English phonetic?  (I will save everyone here the rant about 
the state of American schools, or why my daughter can't spell.)


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning clothes for reenactment
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 07:55:58 EDT
Status: RO

Dear Fran,
We are pre-Victorian--1800-1820.  I made a mourning ensemble several years 
ago to wear when we did a funeral reenactment at Riversdale.  (We actually 
did 3 years in a row before giving it a "rest".)  I have worn it for 
interpretation with the Fort McHenry Guard, in Baltimore, too.  The dress is 
based on the one Rosalie Stier Calvert wears in her portrait by Gilbert 
Stuart, when she was in mourning for her mother.  The veil is based on one in 
an Ackermann's fashion plate.
Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:06:12 -0400
Status: RO

> >The problem is, many people spell phonetically, and that just doesn't
work
> >for English!  LOL!
>
> Since when is English phonetic?  (I will save everyone here the rant about
> the state of American schools, or why my daughter can't spell.)

That was my point. English is NOT phonetic, and yet many people persist in
trying to spell phonetically.

As for the state of American schools--well, I firmly believe that at least
as far as spelling goes, it appears to be something inborn, like eye or hair
color. You can, or you can't. You have brown eyes, or blue.
I , on the other hand, had no use whatsoever for school once they had taught
me to read.  That was the only reason I wanted to go to school, and once I
had learned that, I couldn't understand why my mother insisted I continue to
go! I could have learned at least as much, if not more, simply turned loose
in a library. (Except for one truly spectacular history teacher. One of the
few people who was born to teach.)

Dianne

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: dye-ing feathers
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:31:50 +0100
Status: RO

Honestly, I wasn't meaning to criticise any particular person. I've seen so many references to "dying fabric" on this list in the past that I'd begun to wonder if it was correct usage across the pond.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> Azelana@aol.com 05/27/02 11:42pm >>>
<< Everybody has been solemnly discussing "dying feathers", which looks 
really weird to me. Is the distinction between dying/dyeing not made in 
American English, or has everyone just been too polite to correct the 
spelling mistake? >>

Sorry, Kate, I am dyslexic (really).  I hit the spell-check, but since dying 
is a real word, it wasn't picked up.

--Gillian
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:41:59 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Tue, 28 May 2002, Teddy wrote:

> There are differences in the use of English by Americans that irk me
> too, Kate - the use of "their"  when they mean "they're", or "you"  
> when they mean "your" or any number of others, for instance)

Those are considered wrong in America, too. We just seem to have a lot of
people who never learned how to get it right.

Which is why I make a living.

--Robin, editor


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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:07:16 EDT
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In a message dated 5/28/2002 7:57:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:


> We are pre-Victorian--1800-1820.  I made a mourning ensemble several years 
> ago to wear when we did a funeral reenactment at Riversdale.  (We actually 
> did 3 years in a row before giving it a "rest".)  I have worn it for 
> interpretation with the Fort McHenry Guard, in Baltimore, too.  The dress 
> is 
> based on the one Rosalie Stier Calvert wears in her portrait by Gilbert 
> Stuart, when she was in mourning for her mother.  The veil is based on one 
> in 
> an Ackermann's fashion plate.
> 

Y'know, mourning is great for the Civil War because everybody seems to have 
lost SOMEBODY.....a husband, father, uncle, brother, someone....and it can be 
a great character dress, especially in the South where hard times has women 
overdying patterned gowns with black walnut husk dye....y'know good character 
stuff.

But of course everybody looses someone in time of war, not to mention 
children all the time before antibiotics and stuff like that. Bustle mourning 
can be very striking, but we don't want to look like Queen Victoria on the 
Bombay gin bottle, do we?

It seems a good idea to have some mourning stuff if one reenacts any war. 

BTW, didn't Worth make up everything in black taffeta 1st? What a clever man.

--part1_3c.1ed59074.2a24e914_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 5/28/2002 7:57:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">We are pre-Victorian--1800-1820. &nbsp;I made a mourning ensemble several years 
<BR>ago to wear when we did a funeral reenactment at Riversdale. &nbsp;(We actually 
<BR>did 3 years in a row before giving it a "rest".) &nbsp;I have worn it for 
<BR>interpretation with the Fort McHenry Guard, in Baltimore, too. &nbsp;The dress is 
<BR>based on the one Rosalie Stier Calvert wears in her portrait by Gilbert 
<BR>Stuart, when she was in mourning for her mother. &nbsp;The veil is based on one in 
<BR>an Ackermann's fashion plate.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Y'know, mourning is great for the Civil War because everybody seems to have lost SOMEBODY.....a husband, father, uncle, brother, someone....and it can be a great character dress, especially in the South where hard times has women overdying patterned gowns with black walnut husk dye....y'know good character stuff.
<BR>
<BR>But of course everybody looses someone in time of war, not to mention children all the time before antibiotics and stuff like that. Bustle mourning can be very striking, but we don't want to look like Queen Victoria on the Bombay gin bottle, do we?
<BR>
<BR>It seems a good idea to have some mourning stuff if one reenacts any war. 
<BR>
<BR>BTW, didn't Worth make up everything in black taffeta 1st? What a clever man.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_3c.1ed59074.2a24e914_boundary--
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:47:01 -0400
Status: RO

    Just received the latest Mantua-Maker pattern. It's great. Great
pattern, documentation, engineering and cover art. This is a 1480-1600
Spanish Farthingale. A perfect compliment to the Quilted Bodies (released
last month), and the Spanish Loose Gown, the farthingale is a hooped
petticoat worn over the chemise and bodies, under a kirtle and gown. This
great new pattern features a back closure with soft hoop arrangement as well
as a side closure with stiff hoop arrangement. Approximately 4' in diameter,
with rope or hoop wire options. Comes complete with variations and
decoration ideas, great historical documentation and the standard fabulous
sewing instructions and engineering. Sized petite to x-large inclusive.
Check it out on our website. Very excited about this one.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 07:57:56 -0700
Status: RO




> There are differences in the use of English by Americans that irk 
> me too, Kate - the use of "their"  when they mean "they're", or "you" when
> they mean "your" or any number of others, for instance) but it's not going
> to change so I just skim over it, and leave the pedants to their own
> devices with my own spelling (and repeat typo) problems...<G>
> 

That's not an American problem!  That's a bad grammar problem!  It 
annoys me just as much when the inncorrect their/there/they're is used 
as it annoys you I'm sure!

Of course, I've also read so many books with British spellings that a 
constant comment on my papers at school was "use American 
spellings."  I can't keep them straight.  



Katherine

"I go by-by."

Alexandra Feodorovna, last empress of Russia, in a letter to her husband, Nicholas II
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dyeing tips
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:01:27 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Hello everyone,

I am the one who originally misspelled dyeing. My apologies.

I too, have my own list of pet-peeve spelling and grammar issues:

your when it should be you're
object's when they should be objects
to when it should be too
lay when it should be lie
others du jour

So I am quite embarrassed to have pushed others' buttons by my own error.
For all the grammar issues I have, I am sorry to say that I have never
been an excellent speller. 

Something else to work on,

Truly

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 11:17:42 -0400
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Truly Biggs" <trulinor@yahoo.com>


> I too, have my own list of pet-peeve spelling and grammar issues:
>
> your when it should be you're
> object's when they should be objects
> to when it should be too
> lay when it should be lie
> others du jour
>
> So I am quite embarrassed to have pushed others' buttons by my own
error.
> For all the grammar issues I have, I am sorry to say that I have never
> been an excellent speller.

With me, the most glaring are site for cite, tounge for tongue, and the
use of an apostrophe on the end of EVERY plural word.  Apostrophe does
NOT mean "look out, here comes an S!".

I'd like to say that the non-English speaking people on this list
consistently amaze me in their command of the language.  I speak 8
languages, 3 fluently, and I have an extremely difficult time emailing
in anything other than English.  Add in the vagaries of keyboards not
meant for other character-sets, and it's a wonder anyone manages to
communicate.

Jeanne

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:21:13 -0600
Status: RO


Okay, even though this is hitting my own buttons on proper English
usage, this is extremely off-topic, so please wrap it up.  Thanks.

					...eliz, list admin
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:26:18 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Is it just me, or does it seem that there hasn't been a big conversation on
costumes going on this list for ages? It seems as if the list has/is dying a
slow death somehow. The only time I saw a flurry of posts was in the latest
flame war, during the time when I just signed back up.
I am wondering, is it a case? is it going to be buried or is there hope?

I would post a lot more but hey, no one seems to be interested in the period
that I am interested in and it seems a waste of time/effort/bandwidth trying to
talk about 1660-1715 unless there are people who are actually interested.

Prove me wrong, folks, please!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning clothes for reenactment
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 17:13:03 +0100
Status: RO

Not Victorian, but I wear a semi-opaque black veil with my "best" 1640s dress to cover the fact that my very thick, dead-straight hair has to be kept off my face with a lot of kirby-grips. I have been asked if it is mourning wear, but it isn't.  An article in the catalogue to last year's "Rembrandt's women" exhibition in London confirms that black veils were sometimes worn and are neither bridal nor mourning.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 28 12:37:22 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list?
In-Reply-To: <20020528152618.73723.qmail@web13308.mail.yahoo.com>
 "from N Kipar at May 28, 2002 04:26:18 pm"
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:30:40 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Nicole I'm very interested!  I reall wanted to make a 1660 dress this year
for a costumed event (with the GBACG) but then I realized I wouldn't
be able to attend, so I didn't even start it.  But still, I fell in love
with the shape and I would love to read more from you, anytime!


--
heather meadows
www.wonderland.com	
www.sewhipithurts.com


> I would post a lot more but hey, no one seems to be interested in the period
> that I am interested in and it seems a waste of time/effort/bandwidth trying to
> talk about 1660-1715 unless there are people who are actually interested.
> 
> Prove me wrong, folks, please!
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] English
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:57:03 +0000
Status: RO

>I'd like to say that the non-English speaking people on this list
>consistently amaze me in their command of the language.  I speak 8
>languages, 3 fluently, and I have an extremely difficult time emailing
>in anything other than English.  Add in the vagaries of keyboards not
>meant for other character-sets, and it's a wonder anyone manages to
>communicate.

Ehehe well, English and French use the same characters... just add a few for 
French, so typing for me is not a problem. I wonder how it is for keyboards 
meant for entirely different character set though...

Okay, typing was not a problem... but learning to read pattern instructions 
in English, THAT was a challenge!!! :-)

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:49:38 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_a6.26bc0a99.2a251d32_boundary
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In a message dated 5/28/2002 12:58:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:


> ... but learning to read pattern instructions 
> in English, THAT was a challenge!!! :-)
> 

Beware of the following phrases:

"Turn and Press"  ----3 little words, yes, but often hours of tedium!

"Ease" ----sounds "ease-y" no? but getting that 1 1/2" spread out over the 
entire armseye and still having it look good is a bitch!

BE NOT DECEIVED

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 5/28/2002 12:58:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">... but learning to read pattern instructions 
<BR>in English, THAT was a challenge!!! :-)
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Beware of the following phrases:
<BR>
<BR>"Turn and Press" &nbsp;----3 little words, yes, but often hours of tedium!
<BR>
<BR>"Ease" ----sounds "ease-y" no? but getting that 1 1/2" spread out over the entire armseye and still having it look good is a bitch!
<BR>
<BR>BE NOT DECEIVED</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 28 14:00:57 2002
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From: "Ulrika A. O'Brien" <uaobrien@uci.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tip to rejuvenate feathers
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:54:02 -0700
Status: RO

At 04:19 AM 5/28/2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>>Another way is take paper bag put a layer of baking soda in it and then the
>>feather.  Shake bag and take feather out and brush it with another feather to
>>remove the baking soda ... this will remove the grim from the feather.  Then
>>you can recondition it over steam to shape.  The grim should come out with
>>the baking soda.
>
>I was told to use corn starch, same method, same effect.  Corn starch 
>works for me.

The one that works well for silk flowers is ordinary table salt.  I
haven't tried it on feathers, but it works a treat on the flowers.




  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 28 14:11:21 2002
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list? spelling and Moroccan outfit question(long)
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:11:25 -0400
Status: RO

OK, Last quip on the spelling. I was absolutely amazed when my then second
grade stepdaughter brought home a paper where she had written "throw"
instead of "through", but the teacher crossed out her "throw" and wrote
"thru" on top of it.  And people wonder what is wrong with the American
school system.
Back to topic (sort of)- I was watching "Trading Spaces" last night and one
episode had the host wearing a Moroccan caftan that was beautiful. It was a
dark royal blue with white trim, over slim pants.  The trim looked like
soutache (yep, looked up the spelling on a pack I have around the house)
wound in circles about two inches across like a spiral, and in between the
circles was a three-pointed looped tree-like thing pointing towards the hem.
This trim was on the neckline, both wrists, and a strip across the upper
abdomen where it looked like it was gathered slightly.  I looked at a caftan
my mother brought me back from Morocco years ago (made of polyester
unfortunately)and that one was simple caftan style, like a large rectangle
folded over at the shoulders and simple seamed up the sides.  This one I saw
on the TV last night definitely had at least partial sleeves as there was
definitely a wrist to put the trim on.  There were also wrinkles on the side
of the dress that looked like it was cut wide.  Also, I was unaware that
pants were worn with this sort of dress.  The pants and the lower hem had a
very narrow white trim I did not get a good look at.  Of course, I wanted
the host to stand still for a moment and put her arms out so I could study
the outfit, but she did not oblige. Anyone have a link to a line drawing or
possible construction for this type of outfit?
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 11:26 AM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list?


Is it just me, or does it seem that there hasn't been a big conversation on
costumes going on this list for ages? It seems as if the list has/is dying a
slow death somehow. The only time I saw a flurry of posts was in the latest
flame war, during the time when I just signed back up.
I am wondering, is it a case? is it going to be buried or is there hope?

I would post a lot more but hey, no one seems to be interested in the period
that I am interested in and it seems a waste of time/effort/bandwidth trying
to
talk about 1660-1715 unless there are people who are actually interested.

Prove me wrong, folks, please!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:35:16 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Hello everyone,

In the attampt to not seem that I am slinking away - or leaving in a huff
for any reason (I hate it when that happens)- I am writing to say thank
you all for your input on my questions over the last few weeks. I have
asked to be removed from this list.(I promise-I am not upset. This list
was just not quite what I was looking for and I will keep searching!) You
all seem like wonderfully talented individuals, and I would love to speak
with any of you in person. Keep making beautiful things!

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Trulinor@yahoo.com


Truly Biggs

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list?
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 11:54:14 -0700
Status: RO


>I would post a lot more but hey, no one seems to be interested in the period
>that I am interested in and it seems a waste of time/effort/bandwidth 
>trying to
>talk about 1660-1715 unless there are people who are actually interested.

I am interested in that period, but it seems there are no re-enactment 
groups that do it around here.  I almost did a 1660-ish once - the one with 
the bodice point that goes down halfway to the knees.  I thought it was the 
prettiest dress in the costume book.

>Prove me wrong, folks, please!

I find myself sewing less these days, probably because I am earning way 
less.  I have just come back from 4 days at a science fiction convention (I 
was a guest so they fed me), but I was unable to afford to make any new 
costume which required buying fabric.  I was asked to be a costume judge 
there, but I had to wear something I had already made, something people had 
already seen (oh, the ego-blow of that).  In fact, the only new things I 
wore were scrap projects, made from stuff I already had.

When the economy heats up, people will have time/money to spend on this 
pastime.  I'm still unemployed, so all I have is the time.  My last big 
costume project was covered with historical embroidery, because all it took 
was time.

I'd love to prove you wrong...



Kayta
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feather dying tips
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:17:02 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Mon, 27 May 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:
> *laughs* actually, that's really a challenge for any foreign English writer. I
> have made that exact same mistake over and over again and corrected it over and
> over again, because 'dying' when meaning 'dyeing' just looked too odd. I am
> still not sure if it is 'useable' or 'usable' ;-)
> I am intrigued to know too though, if there is a difference in American
> spelling, as is with such lovely words as centre and theatre.

As far as I know, the only correct American spelling is "dyeing", and
people who are spelling it without the "e" are misspelling it.

Cheers,
Mara


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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:21:19 -0700
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Those aren't "American usages", Teddy.  They're just mistakes.  I know the 
difference between they're/there/their, to/two/too, and your/you're but my 
fingers often pick one at random.

I thought we agreed long ago not to badger people over what are clearly 
typos in e-mail.  Asking for clarification because of spelling is one thing, 
characterizing a typing error as a spelling error (and character flaw) is 
another.


MaggiRos



>From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

>There are differences in the use of English by Americans that irk
>me too, Kate - the use of "their"  when they mean "they're", or "you"
>when they mean "your" or any number of others, for instance) but
>it's not going to change so I just skim over it, and leave the pedants
>to their own devices with my own spelling (and repeat typo)
>problems...<G>
>

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:30:49 -0400 (EDT)
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On Mon, 27 May 2002 Azelana@aol.com wrote:
> Sorry, Kate, I am dyslexic (really).  I hit the spell-check, but since dying
> is a real word, it wasn't picked up.
>
> --Gillian

My hubby has this problem, too.  He is a whiz at mathematical problems,
but can't spell, so he relies on his computer's spell-checker to catch
things for him.  Unfortunately, Microsoft doesn't bother to alert him to
this kind of problem!  He says WordPerfect used to ask you about 'iffy'
words (would give a prompt with the proper context), but Bill Gates's
products are so ubiquitous now...

-- Mara

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:39:32 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Nicole,

I would ask more questions of you about your time
period, but I don't even know where to begin!

Most of my books are focused on the medieval period
right now, except for three (don't laugh anyone): 
_The Mode in Costume_ by R. Turner Wilcox, Doreen
Yarwood's fashion book and the Theatrical Costume
Patterns by Holkeboer (the first edition).  Not
exactly the greatest pieces to form intelligent
questions from!

I remember drooling over the pictures you posted last
year (was it that long ago?) and the conversations
between you and Bjarne--I even sent the posts to my
best friend and sewing co-conspirator.

Jonnalyhn

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning clothes for reenactment
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:41:25 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Ok, what's a "kirby grip"?

And when _did_ people start wearing mourning clothes?  I know that Anne
Buck mentions mourning clothes in her book on 18th Century English costume
(the exact title escapes me)...

-- Mara

On Tue, 28 May 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> Not Victorian, but I wear a semi-opaque black veil with my "best" 1640s dress to cover the fact that my very thick, dead-straight hair has to be kept off my face with a lot of kirby-grips. I have been asked if it is mourning wear, but it isn't.  An article in the catalogue to last year's "Rembrandt's women" exhibition in London confirms that black veils were sometimes worn and are neither bridal nor mourning.

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:53:09 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Tue, 28 May 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> When the economy heats up, people will have time/money to spend on this
> pastime.  I'm still unemployed, so all I have is the time.  My last big
> costume project was covered with historical embroidery, because all it took
> was time.
>
> I'd love to prove you wrong...

That's certainly part of it...  Personally, I don't have the money
concerns so much as lack of time for email.

In the past three months, I made a linen gown, a linen jacket, a
couple of aprons, a new petticoat, a pair of woolen breeches, some caps,
am working on some shirts for a friend's two boys (machine-sewn, except
for the finishing) and another shirt (hand-sewn) as a 'thank-you' for
another friend.

AND also ripped out the carpet and laid hardwood flooring in the master
bedroom and living room of my house, and worked in my garden, and painted
the walls in the aforementioned rooms...  This is part of an ongoing
project to redecorate the house and remove the carpets, since my allergies
are getting worse.

I promise, I _will_ post pics of the gown, at least, one of these days!

Cheers,
Mara

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 20:53:21 +0100
Status: RO


>>> lindo@Radix.Net 05/28/02 08:41pm >>>
>Ok, what's a "kirby grip"?

Do you call them "bobby pins"?

>And when _did_ people start wearing mourning clothes? 

I didn't mean that people didn't wear mourning in the 17th century, just that black didn't necessarily have that connotation. I think it was only in the 19th century that there were elaborate rules for mourning dress


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Jan McEwen <jmcewen@hawaii.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] ECW period
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:54:33 -1000 (HST)
Status: RO

Nicole,

I'm not very familiar with the Restoration period, but I am very
interested in the period preceding (English Civil War in England,
musketeer period in France). Do you know much about the transition of
fashion between the two periods?

I've asked Penny (Costume Classroom) if she could do a class on ECW
fashions. She doesn't know of anyone who could teach it, so if anyone out
there is willing, please get in touch!

Jan

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jan McEwen, Urban Horticulturist, Urban Garden Center, Pearl City, Hawaii
Hawaii Cooperative Extension Service
University of Hawaii/College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources
SCA: Catriona Stewart of the Glens, Barony of the Western Seas, Caid
Internet:  jmcewen@hawaii.edu

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:29:41 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> Beware of the following phrases:
> 
> "Turn and Press"  ----3 little words, yes, but often hours of tedium!

Yeah, the words that make me start rethinking if I _really_ need a double
circle skirt for a dance costume. ;}

> "Ease" ----sounds "ease-y" no? but getting that 1 1/2" spread out over the 
> entire armseye and still having it look good is a bitch!

ARGH!  I bought myself a dressmaker's ham to help with that and I _still_
have problems.  I'm convinced that a lot of commercial patterns have way,
way too much "ease" in the sleeve cap.  Especially the ones that want all
that ease in a 3" space at the top of the armscrye.  This is one of those
things (along with fabric yardage requirements) that will have me writing
"LIE!" on the pattern instructions.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 28 16:21:22 2002
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:12:06 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/28/2002 10:08:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< BTW, didn't Worth make up everything in black taffeta 1st? What a clever 
man.
  >>
I read a novel about Worth once.  Not sure how factual it was.  According to 
that writer, Worth first made up things in black because his then girlfriend 
(and later wife) was a salesgirl, and salesgirls were expected to wear black. 
 If someone knows differently, I would love to hear it.

By the way, Rosalie Stier Calvert, who lived at Riversdale, lost 4 of 9 
children--2 in one week from what was most likely diphtheria.

Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:30:19 -0700
Status: RO


Mourning clothes were worn by Mary QofScots after the death of her first
husband.   Gowns listed are purple, black (for deepest mourning),  white
and grey.   I'll try to track down the resource where I found this.

Mari


Mari Stewart,  Cornell University,  Ithaca NY.
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:50:03 EDT
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Greetings All!

I am looking for examples of Portuguese clothing from about 1450 to 1600.  I 
have seen the Isabel of Portugal portraits and surprisingly, I found a 
drawing in the Christopher Weidtz book.  I was wondering if anyone knew of 
any of other sources.

Thanks in advance,
Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Greetings All!
<BR>
<BR>I am looking for examples of Portuguese clothing from about 1450 to 1600. &nbsp;I have seen the Isabel of Portugal portraits and surprisingly, I found a drawing in the Christopher Weidtz book. &nbsp;I was wondering if anyone knew of any of other sources.
<BR>
<BR>Thanks in advance,
<BR>Kit</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 22:00:30 +0100
Status: RO

>He says WordPerfect used to ask you about 'iffy'
words (would give a prompt with the proper context), but Bill Gates's
products are so ubiquitous now...



I'm dyslexic too & recommend Wordperfect over Word & set you font to Arial

Mel 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spellings (WAS:Feather dying tips)
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:49:54 -0700
Status: RO


>Those aren't "American usages", Teddy.  They're just mistakes.  I know the 
>difference between they're/there/their, to/two/too, and your/you're but my 
>fingers often pick one at random.

And the spell checker can't tell which one you meant.


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 17:16:35 -0500
Status: RO

I recently picked up some women's wool suits from local garage sales with
the idea of dyeing them and using in doublets, as trim, etc. However, it
seems as though the fabric has been treated with something? It is NOT taking
dye at all! Has anyone else come across anything like this? Is there
anything I can do, or am I stuck with turquoise green and electric blue
pieces of wool?


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 08:48:37 -0700
Status: RO

Well here are some questions I have been musing on for a while since
people are complaing about no on topic discussions....

1. Is there a particular fitting technique to overcome the problem of a
lopsided bosom? ie one side bigger than the other. It's not something
that makes much of
a difference in modern clothes, but in a relatively low cut, especially
square neck,
tight bodice I find it does. The neckline tends to get pulled a bit out
of shape and
and when most of the mass of the breast is pushed up or flattened the
size
difference is more noticeable. Or is this just one of those 'fiddle till
you get it right'
thing?

2. I would appreciate some advice from corsetting gurus about how not to
look
like a cylinder in a pre-Victorian corset, if it is at all possible. I
am rather short
waisted and quite hour-glass shaped. The waist of the corset is limited
by my
ribcage which ends about an inch above my hip bone. My breasts are quite

squishy and tend to flatten really well inside a corset (those bits
which don't
go up and over the top). Hence I end up rather cylindrical, which is not
a
terribly flattering look. Especially not after I've I've been dribbling
over those
lovely conical shapes. Is there something I can do to fix this, or am I
doomed
by my body shape and not having worn a corset from the age of three to
be a
cylinder?

Claire
(apologies for the rather lurid descriptions of my anatomy :-P)


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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:58:16 -0700
Status: RO

At 4:12 PM -0400 5/28/02, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>I read a novel about Worth once.  Not sure how factual it was.  According to
>that writer, Worth first made up things in black because his then girlfriend
>(and later wife) was a salesgirl, and salesgirls were expected to wear black.
>  If someone knows differently, I would love to hear it.
>
>By the way, Rosalie Stier Calvert, who lived at Riversdale, lost 4 of 9
>children--2 in one week from what was most likely diphtheria.

I think the most heartbreaking thing I ever ran across while doing 
costume research (see: ObH-Costume <<<===  :-)  was a family tree 
(for the family whose tombs contained the clothing being discussed) 
showing a couple, of whose twelve children, maybe _one_ survived for 
more than two years.  I make's you wonder.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting questions
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:51:09 -0700
Status: RO

 
> 1. Is there a particular fitting technique to overcome the problem of
> a lopsided bosom?

All women are asymmetrical to some degree. It sounds like yours 
is just more than average. There are two ways of going about it 
(with a third being a combination of the two.) One is to build into 
the clothes something to even you out. This is done for sloping 
shoulders, why not for breasts. The other is to fiddle with the fitting 
until it is *visually* the same on both sides. Unfortunately, that is 
very difficult to do for yourself.

> 2. I would appreciate some advice from corsetting gurus about how not
> to look like a cylinder in a pre-Victorian corset, if it is at all
> possible.

Some of us are just barrel shaped. My upper rib cage is actually 
quite narrow (giving me a narrow back) but flairs out below my 
breasts (and short waisted like you mentioned, to boot.) However, 
by the judicious use of corsetting and trims you can appear to be 
more conical than you would otherwise be. 

If you are making a pre-Victorian corset, your breasts should not 
go up over the top but should just sit at the top of the corset. (Jean 
Hunnisett in her 16-18th C book shows the correct way as well as 
the overburgeoning way and the falling into the bottom of the corset 
way.) With some judicious padding within the corset to make the 
breasts look more even you can appear more conical than 
barrel/cylindrical. 

A lot of the look is a combination of waist suppression (the 
difference between your chest/breast measurement and the waist 
measurement) and optical illusion. Unless your waist and 
chest/breast measurements are the same, you are going to be 
conical anyway.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: sustre@pixelations.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is a "corsage ornament"?
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 20:17:06 -0400
Status: RO

Thanks, people, for the information on the "corsage ornaments." I'm 
still not sure what differentiates them from brooches in the book- 
they are definitely jewelry, and I'd guess not sewn onto a particular 
gown (though I can't be sure- they never show the backs), and most 
don't seem more suited to attaching posies than the brooches. They do 
seem somewhat larger, and more symmetrical; if there's not commonly 
accepted definition then I suppose it's a preference of the author.

I really appreciate the info and suggestions offered!

-Amanda
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:52:25 +1200
Status: RO

> 1. Is there a particular fitting technique to overcome the problem of a
> lopsided bosom?

Well you could always use a bit of tailoring , so that you can subtly pad
the smaller side to balance out. You could always use some padding on the
other of course to make it feel less different on the inside. After all
bosom pads can be found in some eras, and being such an easy thing you could
probably use the idea in periods where there is no physical evidence.

> 2. I would appreciate some advice from corseting gurus about how not to
> look
> like a cylinder in a pre-Victorian corset, if it is at all possible.

Bingo! I have a very round ribcage, and it's also very long, probably much
like you as I can only just wiggle my fingers between my ribs and hips.

And I too have an hour glass shape.

I just make my corsets/bodices to fit my duct tape double, and make sure it
is slightly smaller at the waist than it probably should be. Just so that
when it's worn and loosens up, it doesn't actually loosen further than my
measurements.

I also find lacing from the bottom to the top in a front lacing
corset/stay/bodice helps. As I can make sure the lacing at the bottom is
firmer than at he top, and also so I can get some lift to my very small
bust.

I have some online pics of me in a pre hour-glass corset shapes:
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/onstage.htm
The two pics of me in a greyish 1840s-180s costume shows how tubular I look
in a bodice not adjusted to be narrower at he waist
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/backstage.htm
The top most are tv versions of late 18thC (though patterns are from Nora
Waugh and the like) and you can see there is that nice slope from waist to
bust.
http://recital.tripod.com/costume/poison.htm
just shows my shape without any structure.. though umm.. I do admit to
wearing bra that shows a lot of what I technically have not got;)

It just requires solid boning and a really good fit. I really would suggest
getting a dress form made to your measurements. And I found my Duct Tape
Double to be the perfect shape.. I also made sure to make the waist more of
an ideal than strictly true, simply because I know that is where things tend
to loosen up once clothes are worn on me. It's not more than an inch
difference anyway.


michaela



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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list?
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:59:18 -0500
Status: RO

Actually, Nicole (welcome back!) I know very little about that period and 
would be happy to learn more.  So, please do discuss that and other time 
periods.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 04:26 PM 5/28/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>Is it just me, or does it seem that there hasn't been a big conversation on
>costumes going on this list for ages? It seems as if the list has/is dying a
>slow death somehow. The only time I saw a flurry of posts was in the latest
>flame war, during the time when I just signed back up.
>I am wondering, is it a case? is it going to be buried or is there hope?
>
>I would post a lot more but hey, no one seems to be interested in the period
>that I am interested in and it seems a waste of time/effort/bandwidth 
>trying to
>talk about 1660-1715 unless there are people who are actually interested.
>
>Prove me wrong, folks, please!
>
>Nicole

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue May 28 21:14:14 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portuguese Clothing
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 20:07:32 -0500
Status: RO

Portuguese portraits are few and far between.  The only ones I have and 
they are right around the 1600 mark are in a book on Portuguese jewellery 
which I acquired at the British Museum shop.  Ah, I just found where I had 
put it.  The exact title is "Five Centuries of Jewellery: National Museum 
of Ancient Art, Lisbon." by Leonor d'Orey.  London: Zwemmer Publishers 
Limited 1995 ISBN 0 302 00660 5  There aren't many pictures from pre 1600 
but it is still a cool book with pretty pictures. : )  If you find other 
sources for Portuguese stuff please share!

Cheers,
Danielle

At 04:50 PM 5/28/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Greetings All!
>
>I am looking for examples of Portuguese clothing from about 1450 to 
>1600.  I have seen the Isabel of Portugal portraits and surprisingly, I 
>found a drawing in the Christopher Weidtz book.  I was wondering if anyone 
>knew of any of other sources.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Kit

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:58:23 -0600
Status: RO

Hi, Megan.
What's "Trading Spaces???" <g>
I don't have a picture/sketch/info on something like a *caftan* with
that kind of embellishment, but there's a book out there (our local and
university libraries both have copies, IIRC) called "The Art of Arabian
Costume" (can't remember author, sorry) that might give you some ideas. 
It's an amazing, droolsome book full of all kinds of different
regional/ethnic styles.
My guess would be that your garments in question are based on some sort
of combination of fairly simple rectangles and triangles, if only
because so much of the clothing I've seen from that area is done that
way.

I *do* have a Folkwear pattern (printed about 10 years ago, so I have no
idea if this one's still in print) that gives patterns and instructions
for what it calls an "Algerian suit," with men's and women's
variations.  There are an open-fronted jacket, a vest, and very
baggy-crotched pants.  They do not give you the "authentic" names for
the outfit pieces, although I know I've seen similar pants styles in
other ME/Mediterranean styles.

The jacket, vest, and pants are all decorated in elaborate, scrolling
designs, done in soutache.  Lots and LOTS of soutache--the men's 3-pc
takes over 200 yards.

The original outfit, on which Folkwear based this pattern, comes from a
collection at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in
NY, NY.  The original suit was made entirely of wool broadcloth.

I've always wanted to do one of these, but oy, veh! the thought of
applying over 200 yards of braid just plain boggled my mind.  Looks
great, though.

--Sue

"Megan M." wrote:
> 
I was watching "Trading Spaces" last night and one
> episode had the host wearing a Moroccan caftan that was beautiful. It was a
> dark royal blue with white trim, over slim pants.  The trim looked like
> soutache (yep, looked up the spelling on a pack I have around the house)
> wound in circles about two inches across like a spiral, and in between the
> circles was a three-pointed looped tree-like thing pointing towards the hem.
> This trim was on the neckline, both wrists, and a strip across the upper
> abdomen where it looked like it was gathered slightly.  I looked at a caftan
> my mother brought me back from Morocco years ago (made of polyester
> unfortunately)and that one was simple caftan style, like a large rectangle
> folded over at the shoulders and simple seamed up the sides.  This one I saw
> on the TV last night definitely had at least partial sleeves as there was
> definitely a wrist to put the trim on.  There were also wrinkles on the side
> of the dress that looked like it was cut wide.  Also, I was unaware that
> pants were worn with this sort of dress.  The pants and the lower hem had a
> very narrow white trim I did not get a good look at.  Of course, I wanted
> the host to stand still for a moment and put her arms out so I could study
> the outfit, but she did not oblige. Anyone have a link to a line drawing or
> possible construction for this type of outfit?
> -Megan
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In a message dated 5/28/02 12:32:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, lindo@Radix.Net 
writes:


> My hubby has this problem, too.  He is a whiz at mathematical problems,
> but can't spell, so he relies on his computer's spellchecker to catch
> things for him.  Unfortunately, Microsoft doesn't bother to alert him to
> this kind of problem!  He says WordPerfect used to ask you about 'iffy'
> words (would give a prompt with the proper context), but Bill Gatos's
> products are so ubiquitous now...
> 

WordPerfect still asks you about iffy words.  I love WordPerfect

Osmondia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/28/02 12:32:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, lindo@Radix.Net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">My hubby has this problem, too.&nbsp; He is a whiz at mathematical problems,<BR>
but can't spell, so he relies on his computer's spellchecker to catch<BR>
things for him.&nbsp; Unfortunately, Microsoft doesn't bother to alert him to<BR>
this kind of problem!&nbsp; He says WordPerfect used to ask you about 'iffy'<BR>
words (would give a prompt with the proper context), but Bill Gatos's<BR>
products are so ubiquitous now...<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
WordPerfect still asks you about iffy words.&nbsp; I love WordPerfect<BR>
<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:16:08 -0700
Status: RO

Try
http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/preface.html

you might have to go through quite a few to find something similar to
what you describe,
but the drawing are very clear


Shalazar
--
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to
learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable
for their apparent disinclination to do so."

 - Douglas Adams (1952-2001)    English novelist


"Throughout history,
 it has been the inaction of those who could have acted;
 the indifference of those who should have known better;
 the silence of the voice of justice when it mattered most;
 that has made it possible for evil to triumph."

` -Haile Selassie


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning clothes for late 17th c
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 08:57:28 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

I thought I'd throw in something on my period, since I was so wonderfully
proven wrong!
Mourning was done to extremes one could say, and samuel pepys notes, when his
mother dies, that he mustn't forget to blacken the soles of his shoes. Indeed,
black was worn for dep mourning and it was black from head to toe and very
literally so! Mourning rings were given out by the closest relatives to the
mourners at the wake and black crepe/chiffon bands were worn around the hat as
hatband and flowing down the back. I have some engravings of that. They were
also worn around the upper arms as streamers, both at the actual funeral. It
also appears as if black mourning clothes were almost available 'off the rack',
because death occurred mostly sudden, there are so many accounts of people
'faling sick' and being dead within a week, it is amazing. there are some
descriptions of women donning their new all-black mourning gowns within a
couple of days and it would have been impossible to create such a gown from
scratch in that time, thus it is believed that certain pre-cut and pre-sewn
garments were available, to be altered to the specific fit.
Elizabeth Pepys was not at all impressed with her mother in law's death,
because it was spring and she had just gotten a new fancy silk dress and was so
annoyed that the following year, when they would come out of mourning, it would
be out of fashion! *laughs*
Furthermore, after full mourning one went into the second phase and white was
worn with the black, I have an interesting painting of the 1710s which shows a
whole family in half mounring for the death of the father and husband. The
widow wears still black and the widows-weeds a certain cap with bands going
under her chin and frills around the face, and the children are wearing
strictly white and black clothes.

There's a lot more, but so much for mourning in a nutshell. :-)

Nicole - who one day will have a full set of mounring and half-mounring clothes
made, probably when I'm retired...

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dyeing wool
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 08:58:50 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote: > I recently picked up
some women's wool suits from local garage sales with
> the idea of dyeing them and using in doublets, as trim, etc. However, it
> seems as though the fabric has been treated with something? It is NOT taking
> dye at all! Has anyone else come across anything like this? Is there
> anything I can do, or am I stuck with turquoise green and electric blue
> pieces of wool?

As far as I know thse fabrics are treated with something like scotchguarding,
and I don't have a clue how you would ever get that out, sorry!

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed May 29 04:56:14 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ECW period
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 09:47:04 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Hi Jan,
> 
> I'm not very familiar with the Restoration period, but I am very
> interested in the period preceding (English Civil War in England,
> musketeer period in France). Do you know much about the transition of
> fashion between the two periods?

I do actually know quite a lot about the transition, because as I always say,
if you research one period, it is vital to look in detail into the periods
right before and after, because nothing happens 'just so' but everything is a
transition, transformation, development. Something which is easily seen in the
1650s to the 1660s. The dresses in the 1650s are so very similar to the 1660s,
and the develoment from the 40s to the 50s is also quite obvious when looking
at it. The way the waist falls down, the stomacher lengthens, etc. there are
also amusing peculiarities, like a split skirt over the petticoat being in
vogue in the 40s for example and then being almost obsolete by the 60s just to
comeback with a vengeance in the 1670s.

> I've asked Penny (Costume Classroom) if she could do a class on ECW
> fashions. She doesn't know of anyone who could teach it, so if anyone out
> there is willing, please get in touch!

I don't know anyone either and wouldn't dare to call myself enough of an expert
in the ECW period clothing. Perhaps someone is out there though!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning clothes for reenactment
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 --- Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net> wrote: >
> 
> And when _did_ people start wearing mourning clothes?  I know that Anne
> Buck mentions mourning clothes in her book on 18th Century English costume
> (the exact title escapes me)...
> 
> -- Mara

They very definitely did in the 1660s. They must ahve done before that...
anyone out there who has quotes/pictorial evidence?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list?
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:27:01 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Is it just me, or does it seem that there hasn't been a big
> conversation on costumes going on this list for ages? It seems as if
> the list has/is dying a slow death somehow. The only time I saw a
> flurry of posts was in the latest flame war, during the time when I
> just signed back up. I am wondering, is it a case? is it going to be
> buried or is there hope?

Hi Nicole,

I seem to recall the list going slow at about this time almost every 
year - a lot of people on the list are in groups that are "in season" 
over the summer months so people are probably spending a lot of 
time around now desperately trying to finish their new kit for the 
summer season..... Someone else step in and confirm or deny this.
 
> I would post a lot more but hey, no one seems to be interested in
> the period that I am interested in and it seems a waste of
> time/effort/bandwidth trying to talk about 1660-1715 unless there
> are people who are actually interested. 
> 
> Prove me wrong, folks, please!

I'm sure lots of people are interested in that period, I'm not sure 
how many are *active* in it, but that's a differnet matter entirely.... I 
can't say it's one of my favourites (in fact, it's actually one of my 
least favourite....<G>) but then I *know* that there are people out 
there who hate some of my favourites, so it all evens out 
somewhere.



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern instructions (WAS: English)
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:33:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > ... but learning to read pattern instructions 
> > in English, THAT was a challenge!!! :-)
> > 
> 
> Beware of the following phrases:
> 
> "Turn and Press"  ----3 little words, yes, but often hours of tedium!

Those I have no problem with.
 
> "Ease" ----sounds "ease-y" no? but getting that 1 1/2" spread out over
> the entire armseye and still having it look good is a bitch!
> 
> BE NOT DECEIVED

I'm with you on that one.  In my expoerience, "ease" on a pattern 
equates to fiddling with the darned thing, fudging it where it won't 
show and wanting to scream and throw it across the room at least 
three times during the cosntruction of that part.... but then, sleeves 
always were the bane of my sewing life.  If *something* is goignt o 
go wrong with a garment I make - it will be the sleeves... Inside out, 
upside down, back to front, two of the same sleeve instead of a 
pair, pattern or pile the wrong way up on one or both of them, "and, 
in extreme cases, joined together at the heel"... <sigh!>

Starting to costume in periods wehre seperate sleeves were used 
has been a breath of frsh-air.

Teddy
(Yes, I know that sleeves don't have heels but that paraphrasing 
from hitch-hikers guide to the galaxy just seems to sum up the 
relationship between me and sleeves)

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list?
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:48:15 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> I seem to recall the list going slow at about this time almost every 
> year - a lot of people on the list are in groups that are "in season" 
> over the summer months so people are probably spending a lot of 
> time around now desperately trying to finish their new kit for the 
> summer season..... Someone else step in and confirm or deny this.

Oh yes of course, that could be it! Guess not everyone works on/with a computer
that's online all day long and can write emails during the day at work whenever
the fancy takes and there are no meetings or appointments. I guess I sometimes
forget how lucky I am. I am in the same situation, madly finishing more bits
for ths weekend, when we go to Brixham from Friday to Tuesday for some pirate
re-enactment. *grins* Oh no, it isn't serious stuff, not at all, it is
authentic HOLLYWOOD pirate re-enactment! *laughs* It is four days of great big
silly fun, pubs and tall ships, sailing on the golden hind along the Torquay
coast and being generally silly. OH YES!!! Just what my child's heart needed.

> I'm sure lots of people are interested in that period, I'm not sure 
> how many are *active* in it, but that's a differnet matter entirely.... I 
> can't say it's one of my favourites (in fact, it's actually one of my 
> least favourite....<G>) but then I *know* that there are people out 
> there who hate some of my favourites, so it all evens out 
> somewhere.

*dramatic sigh and grip to the heart* Oh Teddy, you just broke my heart.
*winks*

I just wasn't sure, there is rarely something of particular interest to me, coz
I seem to be quite exclusive in my period taste, though I do save interesting
mails on other periods and I wondered if people actually wanted to har about a
different period to the one they do. Apparently they do and I am very happy.

Nicole - off to handsew a bit more soon in lunchbreak.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portuguese Clothing
From: Grace Morris <gmorris@providenceday.org>
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 08:16:21 -0400
Status: RO

I haven't found anything in English, yet....

                     O Vestuario Portugues ao Tempo da
                     Expansao: Seculos XV e XVI.
                     por Fernando Jose Cunha de Oliveira.
                     (can't find the date, right now.)
                     Edicao: Grupo de Trabalho de Ministerio de
                     Educacao para os Decobrimentos
                     Portugueses.

                     There are some lousy drawings, but also
                     primary source pictures, a
                     dictionary of terms (!) and a nice biblio.
                     My copy came ILL from the U. of
                     Rhode Island.

Grace/Jessamyn

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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Trading Spaces
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:24:16 -0400
Status: RO

Trading Spaces is a show on The Learning Channel where two neighbors agree
to re-do one room of the other's house.  The TV show supplies a designer and
the $1000 budget for each room.  The owners decide what room, and state some
likes and dislikes.  The designers take it from there, using the other
house's owners as the slave labor, but often have a carpenter along as well.
They do some amazing designs, many of which are absolutely gorgeous, and
some of which make you shake your head and wonder why would anyone ever do
that?  They usually take down ceiling fans, but I've seen some incredible
work. My favorite room so far is this one:
http://tlc.discovery.com/fansites/tradingspaces/beforeandafter/beforeandafte
r_4.html#
scroll down towards the bottom
and click on:
"North Carolina: Southerby Drive"
and then on "Doug's Room"
be sure to click on before and after shots.

Does costuming a room count as sort of off/on topic?
-Megan


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 9:58 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list? spelling and Moroccan outfit
question(long)


Hi, Megan.
What's "Trading Spaces???" <g>
I don't have a picture/sketch/info on something like a *caftan* with
that kind of embellishment, but there's a book out there (our local and
university libraries both have copies, IIRC) called "The Art of Arabian
Costume" (can't remember author, sorry) that might give you some ideas.
It's an amazing, droolsome book full of all kinds of different
regional/ethnic styles.
My guess would be that your garments in question are based on some sort
of combination of fairly simple rectangles and triangles, if only
because so much of the clothing I've seen from that area is done that
way.

I *do* have a Folkwear pattern (printed about 10 years ago, so I have no
idea if this one's still in print) that gives patterns and instructions
for what it calls an "Algerian suit," with men's and women's
variations.  There are an open-fronted jacket, a vest, and very
baggy-crotched pants.  They do not give you the "authentic" names for
the outfit pieces, although I know I've seen similar pants styles in
other ME/Mediterranean styles.

The jacket, vest, and pants are all decorated in elaborate, scrolling
designs, done in soutache.  Lots and LOTS of soutache--the men's 3-pc
takes over 200 yards.

The original outfit, on which Folkwear based this pattern, comes from a
collection at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in
NY, NY.  The original suit was made entirely of wool broadcloth.

I've always wanted to do one of these, but oy, veh! the thought of
applying over 200 yards of braid just plain boggled my mind.  Looks
great, though.

--Sue

"Megan M." wrote:
>
I was watching "Trading Spaces" last night and one
> episode had the host wearing a Moroccan caftan that was beautiful. It was
a
> dark royal blue with white trim, over slim pants.  The trim looked like
> soutache (yep, looked up the spelling on a pack I have around the house)
> wound in circles about two inches across like a spiral, and in between the
> circles was a three-pointed looped tree-like thing pointing towards the
hem.
> This trim was on the neckline, both wrists, and a strip across the upper
> abdomen where it looked like it was gathered slightly.  I looked at a
caftan
> my mother brought me back from Morocco years ago (made of polyester
> unfortunately)and that one was simple caftan style, like a large rectangle
> folded over at the shoulders and simple seamed up the sides.  This one I
saw
> on the TV last night definitely had at least partial sleeves as there was
> definitely a wrist to put the trim on.  There were also wrinkles on the
side
> of the dress that looked like it was cut wide.  Also, I was unaware that
> pants were worn with this sort of dress.  The pants and the lower hem had
a
> very narrow white trim I did not get a good look at.  Of course, I wanted
> the host to stand still for a moment and put her arms out so I could study
> the outfit, but she did not oblige. Anyone have a link to a line drawing
or
> possible construction for this type of outfit?
> -Megan
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Subject: [h-cost] FW: Is everything alright? (A response from Fabrics-store.com)
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 07:30:44 -0700
Status: RO

I know others of you were wondering about the store Fabrics-store.com.
Looks like they were just low on stock.

-----Original Message-----
From: Fabrics-store.com [mailto:cs@fabrics-store.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 4:09 PM
To: Saragrace@earthlink.net
Subject: RE: Is everything alright?


Thank you for you letter.

We are going to restock our inventory soon. And we also waiting for the
new collection of cotton and linen fabrics.

Please visit us again at www.fabrics-store.com

sincerely
cs@fabrics-store.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace@earthlink.net [mailto:Saragrace@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 12:49 PM
To: cs@fabrics-store.com
Subject: Is everything alright?


Seems like your selection is very low. Some of us \'regulars\' are
wondering....is everything okay?



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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:19:36 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Jonnalyhn

I promise to post pictures when I have hopefully taken quite a few after this
weekend. It is the Golden Jubilee here and that means we'll be off until
Wednesday. Yippieh!
We are going to Devon and I managed to borrow the digital camera again.

I have a new red silk corset/bodice made by Harriet waterhouse, which is a copy
of the pink 1660s stays in the V&A.
I finished the 1690s morning gown in that smack-bang orange.
Finished  adark green wool petticoat.
Am just about to finish a linen under-petticoat.
Finally finished my second chemise, cut after the pattern in 'cut my cote'
which fits beautifully under the very low bodices of the 60s.
Will finish tonight a black wool hood which is a sort of outdoors over-hood and
goes over the linen one, as seen in many paintings.
Will scotchguard th bejeezus ut of my cloak and hood tonight.
I got  anew pair of 1700 needle-toe shoes by sarah Juniper, black leather and
red heel. (I learned from last year... the brocade ones come AFTER the leather
ones)
My new wig, which is the one on which the fontange will be mounted on, just
arrived yesterday night and Derek Easton has worked his magic once again.
I'll see my seamstress, Ninya Mikhaila, next weekend for a toile fitting.
I'll have my mantua for the beginning of July, when we have an event in London.

Hmm... did I forget any of my adventures during my long absence? :-))
Oh yes, I am curently working on a scarlet officer's coat for ben and a red and
gold brocade waistcoat for him to go under it. The coat will be laced with
silver.

> I remember drooling over the pictures you posted last
> year (was it that long ago?) and the conversations
> between you and Bjarne--I even sent the posts to my
> best friend and sewing co-conspirator.

There'll be more to come!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list?
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:26:03 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote: > Nicole I'm very
interested!  I reall wanted to make a 1660 dress this year
> for a costumed event (with the GBACG) but then I realized I wouldn't
> be able to attend, so I didn't even start it.  But still, I fell in love
> with the shape and I would love to read more from you, anytime!

*hint hint* Heather, take my course on 1660s costume, I already have a few who
are interested for it in October. I am sure Penny is happy about that too. :-)

You never know, there might be another costumed event!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] English
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 at May 28, 2002 01:29:41 pm"
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 09:10:07 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

They often do have too much ease, but 1.5 inches can be managed most of the
time, in natural fibers.  try cutting a bias strip of a woven interfacing
the length of your armscye notch to notch, and then sewing it down, stretching
while you sew, onto the sleeve.

I also find adding a sleeve head helps support the extra, eased fabric.

If all else fails, yes, I just cheat and scooch in the extra fabric- push the
extra sleeve into the body of the garment until it's less ease. 
I'm a big fan of scooching.


heather meadows
www.wonderland.com
www.sewhipithurts.com


> > "Ease" ----sounds "ease-y" no? but getting that 1 1/2" spread out over the 
> > entire armseye and still having it look good is a bitch!
> 
> ARGH!  I bought myself a dressmaker's ham to help with that and I _still_
> have problems.  I'm convinced that a lot of commercial patterns have way,
> way too much "ease" in the sleeve cap.  Especially the ones that want all
> that ease in a 3" space at the top of the armscrye.  This is one of those
> things (along with fabric yardage requirements) that will have me writing
> "LIE!" on the pattern instructions.
> 
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dead(ish) list?
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 "from N Kipar at May 29, 2002 04:26:03 pm"
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 09:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I'll try, but since I'm already in school, it's hard to take
classes "at night" when I've already got them!  

Very glad you are offering it though -- I will make a note of it.

Heather

>  --- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote: > Nicole I'm very
> interested!  I reall wanted to make a 1660 dress this year
> > for a costumed event (with the GBACG) but then I realized I wouldn't
> > be able to attend, so I didn't even start it.  But still, I fell in love
> > with the shape and I would love to read more from you, anytime!
> 
> *hint hint* Heather, take my course on 1660s costume, I already have a few who
> are interested for it in October. I am sure Penny is happy about that too. :-)
> 
> You never know, there might be another costumed event!
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting questions
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:52:44 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


--- Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com> wrote:
> 1. Is there a particular fitting technique to overcome the problem of a
> lopsided bosom? ie one side bigger than the other

(You mention no particular period, so, rather generically, here we go.)

The tailoring answers are: make the garment fit the body or make the body fit
the garment.  I agree with the other person who suggested adding padding to the
garment on the "small" side.  This will work fabulously with heavier garments
like jackets. These garments would look quite strange if they were made
asymetrically.  If made assymetrically in anything other than a monochrome
tabby weave the assymetry will scream & be noticed.  Exactly the effect you
want to avoid.

For evening gowns, blouses, waists, corsages and similar light garments, I
suggest you pad the body instead of the garment.  Place an adequate bust lifter
inside your corset on the "small" side.

Finally, check and see if you dont have other fitting assymetries, such as a
dropped shoulder, built up muscle mass, minor lordosis, minor scoliosis,
vertical posture, neckline hang.  Adjust for the biggest effect first,
shoulderline then downward, center then outward.

IMHO, the only time a garment should be made assymetrically, is at a the
waistband.  Doing so adjusts for typical problems like a dropped hip or
dancer's swayback (or, in my case, both).  This adjustment *must* be made for
garments with any strong vertical or horizontal design.  (Imagine the plaid
mini-skirt on someone with a drop hip. Gaah! Makes me seasick.)


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th c. bits
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:13:39 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Oh wundebar Nicole!  

This is especially cool, as I am about to finally coax
the friend I mentioned in my last post into joining
H-Cost.  

I look forward to seeing the pictures and will see if
schedule and finances permit a class this fall.
(sometimes being a single mom is just lame that way)

Jonnalyhn

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Subject: [h-cost] 2 coat patterns - opinions?
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:16:00 -0700
Status: RO

I just got a Smoke and Fire catalog #12, 2002-2003.  In it I find, on page 
16, a 1795-1820 tail coat pattern from Rocking Horse Farm Patterns, and, on 
page 24, an 1858 frock coat pattern from Past Patterns.  Anybody know how 
good these patterns are?  I mostly want to know ease of use, as I can 
correct any detail I don't like when I make the muslin.  (My Sweetie's 
birthday is coming up...)

Kayta
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Subject: [h-cost] Finding feathers?
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 15:36:48 -0400
Status: RO

Does anyone know where I might be able to obtain relatively plain (but not tiny) feathers?  Like duck or goose?

Either over the web, or anywhere between the Philadelphia and DC areas?


I need to build another fan for my new craftsperson-type character at Faire this year... preferably two, so I won't have to panic if my dog eats another one (no kidding, she ate my first one, which I
really liked.. sigh...)

TIA,
-Elisabeth

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 08:03:02 -0700
Status: RO



Teddy wrote:

> > > ... but learning to read pattern instructions
> > > in English, THAT was a challenge!!! :-)
> > >
> >
> > Beware of the following phrases:
> >
> > "Turn and Press"  ----3 little words, yes, but often hours of tedium!
>
> Those I have no problem with.
>
> > "Ease" ----sounds "ease-y" no? but getting that 1 1/2" spread out over
> > the entire armseye and still having it look good is a bitch!
> >
> > BE NOT DECEIVED
>
> I'm with you on that one.  In my expoerience, "ease" on a pattern
> equates to fiddling with the darned thing, fudging it where it won't
> show and wanting to scream and throw it across the room at least
> three times during the cosntruction of that part.... but then, sleeves
> always were the bane of my sewing life.  If *something* is goignt o
> go wrong with a garment I make - it will be the sleeves... Inside out,
> upside down, back to front, two of the same sleeve instead of a
> pair, pattern or pile the wrong way up on one or both of them, "and,
> in extreme cases, joined together at the heel"... <sigh!>
>

Absolutely!  I once left the sleeves on a cotte inside out after I'd sewed
them
on that way for the third time in a row....
Claire

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Subject: [h-cost] Alfgahaur Press, please
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 16:25:05 -0600
Status: RO

Will the proprietor of Alfgahaur Press please contact me privately?

Thanks,

Mary Denise Smith
editor@costumemag.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: Is everything alright? (A response from
	Fabrics-store.com)
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 18:53:15 -0400
Status: RO

Thanx so much for sharing that with us! I was beginning to panic-war
is-a-comin and I need linen!
Laurie
> I know others of you were wondering about the store Fabrics-store.com.
> Looks like they were just low on stock.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fabrics-store.com [mailto:cs@fabrics-store.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 4:09 PM
> To: Saragrace@earthlink.net
> Subject: RE: Is everything alright?
> 
> 
> Thank you for you letter.
> 
> We are going to restock our inventory soon. And we also waiting for the
> new collection of cotton and linen fabrics.
> 
> Please visit us again at www.fabrics-store.com
> 
> sincerely
> cs@fabrics-store.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Saragrace@earthlink.net [mailto:Saragrace@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 12:49 PM
> To: cs@fabrics-store.com
> Subject: Is everything alright?
> 
> 
> Seems like your selection is very low. Some of us \'regulars\' are
> wondering....is everything okay?
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Accepted to Design School!!! (O/T)
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 03:57:04 +0000
Status: RO


Completely off topic, but I'm so excited I have to shout this out to 
everyone I know....  I got accepted to design school!!!!  I will be starting 
in the Fall.

Now maybe one day, I'll be able to answer a question or contribute to the 
list instead of living in constant lurkdom.

Yippeeee!!!!

:) jessica



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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:57:40 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, all!

Re: Folkwear: My understanding of some of the patterns is that any of the 
patterns that were taken from actual garments in the Metropolitan Museum, 
will not be reprinted, as the museum only gave Folkwear the rights to do it 
once.  The three that I know of are the Algerian Suit, the Poiret cocoon 
coat, and the Russian Cossack ensemble.  We have all these, but the only 
one we've done is the Russian.  Note:  this pattern is not for the 
novice!  At one point, the instructions tell you to press a seam open - 
well, unless you have one of those micro irons (with the tiny triangular 
head), it's impossible!  (And maybe impossible WITH one of those 
irons!)  You just can't get to it.  It is a wonderful pattern, however - 
looks really good in the wearing.

Other stuff: The Durham Western Heritage museum in Omaha has had an exhibit 
up for the last month or so displaying some women's clothes from their 
collection, covering about 1880 thru 1960.  The earlier stuff is the 
neatest.  I especially like the 1920's items - some of the embroidery is to 
die for!!  The thing I found the most interesting, though, was the mourning 
dress (ca. 1890-1900).  While it was all in black wool, with jet beading 
and a black-veiled hat, at one spot you could get a look at the jacket 
lining - it was bright fuchsia!  There were no notes on the placard 
indicating whether it had been re-lined at a later date or not, so I don't 
know if this was regularly done or not in period.  The exhibit closes June 
2, so if you're close by, there's not much time left to see it.

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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Subject: [h-cost] Lurking (was: Accepted to Design School!!!)
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 23:40:43 -0500 (CDT)
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On Thu, 30 May 2002, jessica stier wrote:

> Completely off topic, but I'm so excited I have to shout this out to
> everyone I know....  I got accepted to design school!!!!  I will be
> starting in the Fall.

Congratulations!

> Now maybe one day, I'll be able to answer a question or contribute to
> the list instead of living in constant lurkdom.

This made me think. I've noticed periodically, on this list and others,
people apologizing for lurking. Speaking just for me :-) I think it's
great that there are people lurking on this list in order to learn! Not
everyone has to post frequently, or at all, or be able to answer every
question, or any question.

I can't tell you how much it thrills me when I meet people (either online
or in person) who tells me they lurk on h-cost and learned something from
reading my posts. It means I'm reaching a much wider audience than the few
dozen names I recognize here. (Sobering thought, that.)

I lecture a lot, and that means I give the same information over and over
to different audiences, and answer many of the same questions over and
over. I don't mind -- that's why I do it -- but when I see how basic the
knowledge level is in some groups, I rather wish there were more people
lurking and learning here on h-cost, taking that information back to their
friends and helping disseminate the knowledge and raising the general
level. That ultimately helps all of us, as some of those people will go on
to learn more in their own interest areas, and eventually will have good
information to share themselves.

So this is my big thank-you to the lurkers for being out there. And don't
forget, each of you knows *something* that the rest of us don't, so don't
be reluctant to share it when you find the opportunity.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Accepted to Design School!!! (O/T)
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 00:31:42 -0400
Status: RO

Jessica,

This is wonderful news!!!!!!!  We are so proud of you!!!!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 21:36:32 -0700
Status: RO

To Jessica-

I don't think it's OT when someone is getting a chance to contribute to
the body of costume knowledge by going to school to learn more about
what's what!!!

BTW, which school and where?

Congratulations and HAVE FUN!!! (Isn't that the first rule of costume???)

Theresa Eacker

jessica stier wrote:
> 
> Completely off topic, but I'm so excited I have to shout this out to
> everyone I know....  I got accepted to design school!!!!  I will be starting
> in the Fall.
> 
> Now maybe one day, I'll be able to answer a question or contribute to the
> list instead of living in constant lurkdom.
> 
> Yippeeee!!!!
> 
> :) jessica
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 00:38:50 -0400
Status: RO

My assistant Susan has been being a lurker on h-costume and vintage about a
year.  She is learning so much... now she is on sew retro and she doesn't
even sew!  But she is learning and gaining confidence.  When we meet she
knew very little about costume... except to make great graphics!  Susan has
come a long way baby!

Come out of lurking Susan and say hi!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:14:38 +0100
Status: RO

Good to know there's another ECW enthusiast on the list! I reenact that period but don't consider myself any kind of costume expert.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> jmcewen@hawaii.edu 05/28/02 08:54pm >>>
Nicole,

I'm not very familiar with the Restoration period, but I am very
interested in the period preceding (English Civil War in England,
musketeer period in France). Do you know much about the transition of
fashion between the two periods?

I've asked Penny (Costume Classroom) if she could do a class on ECW
fashions. She doesn't know of anyone who could teach it, so if anyone out
there is willing, please get in touch!

Jan

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jan McEwen, Urban Horticulturist, Urban Garden Center, Pearl City, Hawaii
Hawaii Cooperative Extension Service
University of Hawaii/College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources
SCA: Catriona Stewart of the Glens, Barony of the Western Seas, Caid
Internet:  jmcewen@hawaii.edu 

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:12:23 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> HOLLYWOOD pirate re-enactment! *laughs* It is four days of great big
> silly fun, pubs and tall ships, sailing on the golden hind along the
> Torquay coast and being generally silly. OH YES!!! Just what my
> child's heart needed.

OH!!!!  I am so envious!!!  I wanna be there!  Hollywood pirates 
*and* I haven't been sailing in far too long
 
> > I can't say it's one of my favourites (in fact, it's
> > actually one of my least favourite....<G>) but then I *know* that
> > there are people out there who hate some of my favourites, so it all
> > evens out somewhere.
> 
> *dramatic sigh and grip to the heart* Oh Teddy, you just broke my
> heart. *winks*

<snortle!>  Yeah, riiiiight....
 
> I just wasn't sure, there is rarely something of particular
> interest to me, coz I seem to be quite exclusive in my period
> taste, though I do save interesting mails on other periods and I
> wondered if people actually wanted to har about a different period
> to the one they do. Apparently they do and I am very happy. 

Yay!
 
> Nicole - off to handsew a bit more soon in lunchbreak.

Teddy
(not got his act together enough to have any handsewing with him, 
though he really *needs to!)


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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:24:39 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> OH!!!!  I am so envious!!!  I wanna be there!  Hollywood pirates 
> *and* I haven't been sailing in far too long

*BIG GRIN* well, we go there with some of our group and also te neighbours who
do napoleonic.  the great thing is that all kit rom 1550-1800 is allowed.
*laughs* super, that means lots of people can come. I am indeed ogling Matt's
tricorne, just for one on top of the wig. Ohh, that reminds me, did I ever post
the banquet pics from february? I don't think so. Will do in a mo.

> (not got his act together enough to have any handsewing with him, 
> though he really *needs to!)

I really have to as well, still have to finish the linen underskirt. Have it
with me today, but at 4 got to pick up a friend from the train station here in
canterbury, coming from germany for the pirate thingy.
Costume content:
I finished the black woolen 'over hood' yesterday and sprayed it too, together
with the cloak, has two thick layers of scotchguard on, only have  a bit left
in the can.
Treated all my authenti-shoes with a very mild and gentle but powerful
anti-weather/wetness foam, one never knows at the west coast...

Next project is Ben's 1700 coat and waistcoat, and I better hurry for Hounslow
in July!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:26:28 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

I really don't know if I have posted this but I don't think so, because I
wasn't on the list in February. It's pictures of our annual banquet and us
being very silly too! (note, not all that people are wearing is fully authentic
and we also have a guest from 100 years later, but a couple of people didn't
have kit yet and so we threw some stuff together, after all, it was fun for US,
no public)

http://www.kipar.org/events/02-02_banquet.html

Enjoy!
Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 12:12:41 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Hello all,after twenty months since last posting to
the list its been a busy time and I've missed being in
touch.
Hope you're all well and that things have gone well
over nearly the past two years for the List and its
members.

Warm regards,
Marcus.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baroque Banquet photos
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 08:04:47 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Nicole,

and welcome back! The pictures look lovely, I love a group of people who
are all dressed on a coherent way so the overal image is authentic (even
if certain elements aren't). I will admit that after looking at the
banquet pics first, then looking at the 'behind the scenes', it was a
shock to see the microwave in the background! 

Karen







On Thu, 30 May 2002 09:26:28 +0100 (BST) =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?=
<nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> writes:
> I really don't know if I have posted this but I don't think so, 
> because I wasn't on the list in February. It's pictures of our annual
banquet 
> and us being very silly too! (note, not all that people are wearing is 
> fully authentic and we also have a guest from 100 years later, but a
couple of 
> people didn't have kit yet and so we threw some stuff together, after
all, it was 
> fun for US, no public)
> 
> http://www.kipar.org/events/02-02_banquet.html
> 
> Enjoy!
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 2 Coat Patterns/Rocking Horse Farms & Past Patterns
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:30:29 EDT
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Kayta-

I have used both patterns.  Rocking Horse Farms was good as far as ease of 
construction and period-correct lines (though I did have to alter the back as 
I didn't feel the shoulders were narrow enough for the correct Regency Period 
look I was trying to achieve--most of the originals I have seen are quite 
narrow across the shoulders) and it seemed to run a bit small as I recall and 
I had to alter it overall to be a bit larger (though my husband could have 
"grown" I'm sure).  Also, if you're constructing for a gentleman that has a 
bit "extra" in the belly, you may have to lengthen the torso a bit to 
compensate (or encourage the gentleman to perform more situps! :-)  )  The 
Past Patterns Frock Coat went together smoothly for me, but I did find that 
the lapels tended to roll a bit.  If I had to do it again, I would line the 
lapels with a stiffening fabric to help.  Also, I would use a lighter weight 
wool than I did.

Hope this helps a bit.

S. Talbott




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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Kayta-</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I have used both patterns.&nbsp; Rocking Horse Farms was good as far as ease of construction and period-correct lines (though I did have to alter the back as I didn't feel the shoulders were narrow enough for the correct Regency Period look I was trying to achieve--most of the originals I have seen are quite narrow across the shoulders) and it seemed to run a bit small as I recall and I had to alter it overall to be a bit larger (though my husband could have "grown" I'm sure).&nbsp; Also, if you're constructing for a gentleman that has a bit "extra" in the belly, you may have to lengthen the torso a bit to compensate (or encourage the gentleman to perform more situps! :-)&nbsp; )&nbsp; The Past Patterns Frock Coat went together smoothly for me, but I did find that the lapels tended to roll a bit.&nbsp; If I had to do it again, I would line the lapels with a stiffen!
ing fabric to help.&nbsp; Also, I would use a lighter weight wool than I did.<BR>
<BR>
Hope this helps a bit.<BR>
<BR>
S. Talbott</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baroque Banquet photos
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 14:47:41 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > Hi Nicole,
> 
> and welcome back! The pictures look lovely, I love a group of people who
> are all dressed on a coherent way so the overal image is authentic (even
> if certain elements aren't). I will admit that after looking at the
> banquet pics first, then looking at the 'behind the scenes', it was a
> shock to see the microwave in the background! 
> 
> Karen

*laughs* Oh well, Karen, we had the banquet in Matt's parents house (Matt is
the one with the red silk breeches and the silly tipsy look on his face and
James' borrowed tricorne) Quite a lot of their furniture is authentic our
period, and so was part of the room we ate in. It was wonderful! Definitely
repeated next year. The food was magnificent, we mainly used Hannah Wooley from
the 1670s I believe. (I don't cook...)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Need some contacts...
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:26:01 -0500 (CDT)
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Could someone who is on either of the SCA-Garb lists (yahoo and UVM) who
would be willing to forward an announcement there please contact me
privately? Thank you!

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 07:25:32 -0700
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I'll be un-sub-ing later today.  Life is getting too complicated to keep up
with all the fascinating and amusing stuff here, but so little is about what
we're most interested in...

Have fun, learn lots!

M. Chimene / Patsy in Eugene OR

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 14:47:00 +0000
Status: RO


Thanks for the well wishes.  I have learned so much on this list and been 
really inspired by the knowledge and skill of so many of the members of this 
list.  Often I want to post to tell everyone how much I appreciate their 
contributions, but then I did that everytime I felt that way, I would be 
posting a lot of O/T items!  You guys are fantastic!!!  I'm so happy to have 
found this list!


>BTW, which school and where?

The school is called Fashion Carreers of California College.  It's in San 
Diego, CA.  I liked it a lot better then FIDM and am SO excited about 
starting!!!!

Hope everyone has a great day!

:) jessica


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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:15:46 +0000 (GMT)
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Welcome back Marcus.


Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Mid 13th century Danish Clothing sources
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 12:06:23 EDT
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I'm considering focusing on this era and place and wonder if there are any 
sources people could suggest for garb ideas. I realize this is later than the 
usual Viking things and I'm wondering if the clothes were the same as the 
rest of Europe at this point..

Thanks,

Gervase

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Bookman Old Style" LANG="0">I'm considering focusing on this era and place and wonder if there are any sources people could suggest for garb ideas. I realize this is later than the usual Viking things and I'm wondering if the clothes were the same as the rest of Europe at this point..<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
<BR>
Gervase</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Opening seams in tight places (was: Various things)
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:46:52 -0700
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A trick for opening those nasty seams is to use the edge of your finger 
nail and run it along the seam on the back side where you want it to be 
pressed open. It doesn't produce as flat a seam as ironing would but it's a 
decent alternative when pressed for space or time >; )

I learned that little trick while on a business trip years ago to China. 
While inspecting a few CMT houses that the company I worked for contracted 
with, I watched the individual stitchers pretty carefully. Most of them had 
grown out their nails on a pinky finger (didn't think to check which hand 
was preferred) for this reason. Since they were paid by the piece,  they'd 
come up with a solution that didn't involve a trip to the iron.

At 10:57 PM 5/29/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi, all!
>
><<snip>>At one point, the instructions tell you to press a seam open - 
>well, unless you have one of those micro irons (with the tiny triangular 
>head), it's impossible!  (And maybe impossible WITH one of those 
>irons!)  You just can't get to it.
>
>Sandy

Gwyn Carnegie, suffragette
University of California, Davis


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<html>
<br>
A trick for opening those nasty seams is to use the edge of your finger
nail and run it along the seam on the back side where you want it to be
pressed open. It doesn't produce as flat a seam as ironing would but it's
a decent alternative when pressed for space or time &gt;; )<br><br>
I learned that little trick while on a business trip years ago to China.
While inspecting a few CMT houses that the company I worked for
contracted with, I watched the individual stitchers pretty carefully.
Most of them had grown out their nails on a pinky finger (didn't think to
check which hand was preferred) for this reason. Since they were paid by
the piece,&nbsp; they'd come up with a solution that didn't involve a
trip to the iron. <br><br>
At 10:57 PM 5/29/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Hi, all!<br><br>
&lt;&lt;snip&gt;&gt;At one point, the instructions tell you to press a
seam open - well, unless you have one of those micro irons (with the tiny
triangular head), it's impossible!&nbsp; (And maybe impossible WITH one
of those irons!)&nbsp; You just can't get to it.&nbsp; <br><br>
Sandy<br>
</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie, </b></font>suffragette<br>
<b>University of California, Davis <br><br>
</b></html>

--=====================_5032281==_.ALT--

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Subject: [h-cost] looking for an image of...
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:17:04 -0500
Status: RO

I have looked almost everywhere, I say almost because obviously I missed
where it is since I do not have it, for an image of the 17th century gown
that Geena Davis wears in Cutthroat Island. Any and all angles of the dress
in its various states as she wears it from complete to where she is ripping
pieces of it off so that she can run and stuff.

If anyone has made this wonderful fantasy of a dress please email me where I
can view it and let me know what pattern you used to modify for it. Thanks!
:)

Sincerely,
Franchesca Vecchio Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

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I think I got unsubbed my mistake but I'm checking, please excuse the 
bandwidth.....

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Bookman Old Style" LANG="0">I think I got unsubbed my mistake but I'm checking, please excuse the bandwidth.....</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Photos
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 15:00:28 -0700
Status: RO

Hello

Over the weekend I won two awards at BayCon 2002 a SF Convention in San
Jose.  You can see the winning costume at:

http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costume101/Green_Man.htm

Lord Vich (Stephen Bergdahl)
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:26:43 EDT
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Steven,

That is one fabulous "getup"! As my dear mum would say.  I love the leafy 
theme and the colors.  When you can get clearer pics with LOADS of detail, do 
let us know, and congratulations on your awards. Well met, m'lord!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
W. Shakespeare


In a message dated 5/30/2002 3:04:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
madly@2xtreme.net writes:


> Hello
> 
> Over the weekend I won two awards at BayCon 2002 a SF Convention in San
> Jose.  You can see the winning costume at:
> 
> http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costume101/Green_Man.htm
> 
> Lord Vich (Stephen Bergdahl)
> _______________________________________________
> 


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Steven,<BR>
<BR>
That is one fabulous "getup"! As my dear mum would say.&nbsp; I love the leafy theme and the colors.&nbsp; When you can get clearer pics with LOADS of detail, do let us know, and congratulations on your awards. Well met, m'lord!<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"Do you not know I am a woman?.&nbsp; When I think, I must speak."<BR>
W. Shakespeare<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
In a message dated 5/30/2002 3:04:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time, madly@2xtreme.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hello<BR>
<BR>
Over the weekend I won two awards at BayCon 2002 a SF Convention in San<BR>
Jose.&nbsp; You can see the winning costume at:<BR>
<BR>
http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costume101/Green_Man.htm<BR>
<BR>
Lord Vich (Stephen Bergdahl)<BR>
_______________________________________________<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_76.1d04a95c.2a280123_boundary--
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Subject: [h-cost] R. L. Shep Symposium on Textiles and Dress
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 15:56:34 -0700
Status: RO

FYI  h-costume list members

"Tradition and Fusion: The Arts of Noh and Kyogen Theater," a two-day
symposium will be held at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, December
14-15, 2002.  This Triennial R. L. Shep Symposium on Textiles and Dress 
is
held in collaboration with the UCLA Center for Japanese Studies and in
conjunction with the major exhibition Miracles and Mischief: Noh and 
Kyogen
Theater in Japan (November 10, 2002 through February 2, 2003) organized 
by
LACMA and the Agency for Cultural Affairs, Government of Japan.  The 
first
day includes lectures and demonstrations of traditional theater genres; 
the
second day focuses on contemporary experimental and fusion performances
inspired by these traditions.
Free of charge, but reservations required.  For information e-mail
carcione@lacma.org or call 323-857-6081.


Sharon S. Takeda
Senior Curator and Department Head
Costume and Textiles
Los Angeles County Museum of Art
5905 Wilshire Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90036
TEL: 323 857-6081
FAX: 323 857-6218
E-mail: stakeda@lacma.org

posted by:

Fred Struthers
--
Books on Cloth
a catalog of out-of-print and hard-to-find books
  on costume, textiles and related subjects
--
http://www.rlshep.com
distributor RL Shep Publications

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:31:54 -0500
Status: RO

And, if Teddy hasn't picked up on this already, the original was done on
BBC, called Changing Rooms.  The BBC/USA channel carries it too.

Genie

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Subject: [h-cost] Lurking (was: Accepted to Design School!!!)
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:52:50 -0500
Status: RO

Yes indeed, Congratulations.  And speaking of lurking which I usually do,  I
met Robin last night at my local fabric store (Hancocks).  When she came in
to purchase the last bit of wool she had spotted on a clearance table. I
think I may have startled her a bit when I recognized her after asking what
she was planning on making with it.  And yes I do lurk because some of these
discussions are so informative and I'm not sure what I could add to them.

Genie
(back to lurking)

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lurking (was: Accepted to Design School!!!)
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:25:26 -0500 (CDT)
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On Thu, 30 May 2002, Genie wrote:

> And speaking of lurking which I usually do, I met Robin last night at
> my local fabric store (Hancocks).  When she came in to purchase the
> last bit of wool she had spotted on a clearance table. I think I may
> have startled her a bit when I recognized her after asking what she
> was planning on making with it.

Yes, I was startled all right. I answered that I did historic
reproductions, and she said, "You're Robin Netherton, aren't you?" I felt
almost like a celebrity :-)

Turns out that Genie had seen the pictures I mentioned here a few weeks
ago, from the Gothic fitted dress workshop, so she must have had at least
a vague memory of what I look like. I didn't know that at first, though,
so it was quite a surprise.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 23:19:50 EDT
Status: RO

<< I would post a lot more but hey, no one seems to be interested in the 
period
 that I am interested in and it seems a waste of time/effort/bandwidth trying 
to
 talk about 1660-1715 unless there are people who are actually interested. >>

I think Baroque is gorgeous, Nicole, but I doubt I'd know enough about it to 
carry on an informative correspondence.  I do know that many Baroque fashions 
evolved from styles in my own study period: late 16th century.  And pics are 
always welcome.  :)

--Gillian
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 23:23:15 EDT
Status: RO


<<  my very thick, dead-straight hair has to be kept off my face with a lot 
ofkirby-grips >>

Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but what's a kirby-grip?

--Gillian
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 04:34:41 +0100
Status: RO

>Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but what's a kirby-grip?



Think you call it a bobby pin ?  hair gip, u shaped but with more spring
than a victorian type

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] looking for Helleu prints
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:46:21 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings,

All you late 19th century and early 20th century folks out there might be 
able to help me...  I'm looking for prints and info in books on Paul-Cesar 
Helleu.  He did some beautiful portraits, many of which the women are 
wearing nice hats...he seemed to mainly concentrate on faces and heads, 
without a lot of detail, if any to the body and the rest of the 
clothes...  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 00:05:05 EDT
Status: RO

<< 1. Is there a particular fitting technique to overcome the problem of a
 lopsided bosom? ie one side bigger than the other. It's not something
 that makes much of a difference in modern clothes, but in a relatively low 
cut, especially square neck, tight bodice I find it does. The neckline tends 
to get pulled a bit out of shape and and when most of the mass of the breast 
is pushed up or flattened the size difference is more noticeable. Or is this 
just one of those 'fiddle till
 you get it right' thing? >>

A friend of mine was a full cup size smaller on one side after surgery on her 
esophagus.  We solved the problem by getting her a pair a breast enhancers.  
She only wore one, on the small side, sewn into the bodice between the lining 
and interlining of her gothic fitted gown.  Worked like a charm.

--Gillian
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 00:21:39 EDT
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In a message dated 5/29/02 4:01:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

<< Elizabeth Pepys was not at all impressed with her mother in law's death,
 because it was spring and she had just gotten a new fancy silk dress and was 
so
 annoyed that the following year, when they would come out of mourning, it 
would
 be out of fashion!  >>

Wow!  Talk about self-centered!
LOL

--Gillian
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 00:30:09 EDT
Status: RO


<< Thanx so much for sharing that with us! I was beginning to panic-war
 is-a-comin and I need linen! >>

Oops!  I bet my primary client had something to do with them running low, 
seeing as how he bought two 20-yd bolts of white linen within a month.  I've 
been sewing it all into 12th century undertunics for him.

Glad they restocked for ya.

--Gillian
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 03:38:07 -0400
Status: RO

Where did the tradition of not wearing white until before Memorial Day and
not after Labor Day begin? Why is the trend fading out?  To me... it would
be start at Easter... since white has so much symbolism during the Easter
season... white communion and confirmation dresses.

Now I am not going to tackle this question... I am working on the origins of
buttoning which side for what sex question. (like a need another project,
but I am determined)  Maybe we should assign this wearing white question to
someone to research... where is our new college student????

BTW, I have found white communion gowns as early as 1850 in a fashion plate.
I think they became fashionable because of Queen Victoria's wedding dress.
But it is a hunch.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 01:03:03 -0700 (PDT)
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"Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
[...] 
> BTW, I have found white communion gowns as early as 1850 in a fashion plate.
> I think they became fashionable because of Queen Victoria's wedding dress.
> But it is a hunch.

Isn't that when white wedding dresses started being shown as the "ideal"
in the fashion plates?  I do remember seeing young ladies graduation 
dresses for finishing schools in white from about that period, as well.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:04:24 +0100
Status: RO



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> penny@costumegallery.com 05/31/02 08:38am >>> wrote:
>Where did the tradition of not wearing white until before Memorial Day and
>not after Labor Day begin? Why is the trend fading out?  To me... it would
>be start at Easter... since white has so much symbolism during the Easter
>season... white communion and confirmation dresses.

You'll have to explain this for the benefit of non-Americans, Penny. I know from news bulletins that your Memorial Day happened recently (in Britain we remember the war dead on Nov. 11th) but when is Labor Day and why may you not wear white between them?



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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 04:33:21 -0400
Status: RO

Kate,

Sorry Kate! Labor Day is the first Monday in Sept.  It is a national
holiday.  Memorial Day is always the last Monday in May.  It is a day to
remember those who died in service to their country.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 04:57:37 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Memorial Day
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 04:49:29 -0400
Status: RO

Mentioning Memorial Day...

My husband was at the new WW2 monument at Bedford, VA and it honors those
from all countries that fought at the Invasion of Normandy.  For those who
have not seen this monument, it is wonderful!  It is nested in the foothills
of the Blue Ridge Mountains in Bedford, Virginia.  The mountains are all
around the monument. Such a peaceful setting.  The monument is built life
size like the torrents (sp) on the beach.   There are life-like statues of
the men in action.  There are also those star-like weapon replicas (I don't
know their name) that were scattered on the beach.  Except at the monument,
they are all over the entrance way and drive up to the monument.

This monument is very special to the people of Bedford.  It is a very small
town.  They lost more men per capita than any other town or city in the
Invasion at Normandy.  The towns people are very willing to talk with you
about it.  My husband took 20 Boys Scouts between the ages of 12-17 y.o. to
spend the weekend on one of the veteran's farm.  They all pitched their
tents. The host had lined up several of the surviving Bedford veterans as
guest speakers.  They each told the Scouts their story of the event.
Everyone was so touched by this.

If anyone is interested in taking a group of Scouts to Bedford, let me know
personally and I can provide you with the contact information.

If you are planning a vacation this way, it is worth going off the beaten
path to see.  Plus if you are leaving from Richmond, you can go by
Appromatax Courthouse on the way.   On a family trip we did in a one day
trip... Appromatax, The WW2 Memorial, went to an apple orchard, then drove
across the Blue Ridge Parkway at sunset.  Total cost... we had to pay at
Appromatax and buy apples at the orchard... no more than $40.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:11:18 +0100
Status: RO

Yes, but what is the story about wearing/not wearing white? Do I understand you to say that you may only wear it between those dates?



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> penny@costumegallery.com 05/31/02 09:33am >>>
Kate,

Sorry Kate! Labor Day is the first Monday in Sept.  It is a national
holiday.  Memorial Day is always the last Monday in May.  It is a day to
remember those who died in service to their country.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com 
http://www.costumeclassroom.com 




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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 05:21:27 -0400
Status: RO

Yes, that has been the American tradition for as long as I have been alive.
You can only wear the color white during those months... meaning you can't
wear white in like the month of Oct.    You can wear other colors year
around.

Where in the world did this start?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 02:28:39 -0700
Status: RO

Kate Bunting wrote:
>You'll have to explain this for the benefit of non-Americans, Penny. 
>I know from
>news bulletins that your Memorial Day happened recently (in Britain 
>we remember
>the war dead on Nov. 11th) but when is Labor Day and why may you not 
>wear white
>between them?

Penny answered in part... but didn't mention that we also "celebrate" 
on Nov. 11 - we call it Veterans' Day - to remember those who fought 
in wars; Memorial Day, in May, is for those who died in wars 
(originally established for a particular war, now more generic).

The white thing is that white is considered a summer color, and 
summer vacation is sort of framed by Memorial Day at the end of May 
and Labor Day at the beginning of September.

Anahita
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 02:28:32 -0700
Status: RO

At 5:21 AM -0400 5/31/02, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>Yes, that has been the American tradition for as long as I have been alive.
>You can only wear the color white during those months... meaning you can't
>wear white in like the month of Oct.    You can wear other colors year
>around.

I thought it was just that you couldn't wear white SHOES except in 
the summer. White shirts, sweaters, etc. are OK year-round, but white 
shoes are traditionally not worn before Memorial Day or after Labor 
Day.

-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:34:03 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> And, if Teddy hasn't picked up on this already, the original was done
> on BBC, called Changing Rooms.  The BBC/USA channel carries it too.

It started during the period when I didn't have a television, so i knew 
nothing about it until people started referring to what I was doing to 
their houses as "giving them the Changing Rooms treatment"...  To 
me it was just them lettingme have fun redesigning/decorating bits 
of their living-space

Teddy
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:41:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Yes, I was startled all right. I answered that I did historic
> reproductions, and she said, "You're Robin Netherton, aren't you?"
> I felt almost like a celebrity :-) 
> 
> Turns out that Genie had seen the pictures I mentioned here a few
> weeks ago, from the Gothic fitted dress workshop, so she must have
> had at least a vague memory of what I look like. I didn't know that
> at first, though, so it was quite a surprise. 

Get used to it Robin, you're a marked woman now... <g>

I've had to get used to total strangers saying "Oh, so *you're* 
Teddy!"  and friends telling me that they happened to mention my 
name and someone turned 'round and asked if they meant, "the 
Teddy who..." and it always turning out to be me.  Once, I ran into a 
friend at a large (thousands of people) music festival who told me 
she *knew* I was there, despite it not being my sort of event at all, 
because one of the people she was camping with had described 
someone they saw and she knew it could only be me... So much 
for my childhood ambitions of being inconspicuous so I could 
become  a spy or secret-agent.  The Spy's Guidebook doesn't tell 
you about "hiding in plain sight" and being so obvious no-one would 
suspect you.



Teddy
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 05:46:11 -0400
Status: RO

Hi Wendi!!!!!

I am also a Dunlap!!!!  There was another Dunlap on the list a while back...
Hope!! Are you still there?  Dunlap in Scotland means... "one who knows a
lot about what everyone else is wearing."  LOL!!!  Hmm... I usually go
professionally by Penny E. Dunlap Ladnier.  Forgot it in my signature tag...
but it is one the front of my website.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Wendi Dunlap-Simpson" <litlnemo@slumberland.seattle.wa.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 5:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White


> At 5:21 AM -0400 5/31/02, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >Yes, that has been the American tradition for as long as I have been
alive.
> >You can only wear the color white during those months... meaning you
can't
> >wear white in like the month of Oct.    You can wear other colors year
> >around.
>
> I thought it was just that you couldn't wear white SHOES except in
> the summer. White shirts, sweaters, etc. are OK year-round, but white
> shoes are traditionally not worn before Memorial Day or after Labor
> Day.
>
> --
> -- Wendi





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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:51:30 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Greetings,

Before I fly off to Orlando on sunday (conference), I'd like to ask a technical type question.  I
am going to take with me the 1585 doublet from Patterns of Fashion as something to do in the
evenings.  Now it is going to be made from a lovely chocolate coloured wool and lined with pink
linen.  However I am also going to interline it with some rough linen (courtesy of British Army
surplus).  The doublet is going to be stitched as panels then joined together.  My question is hoe
do I sew the interlining in without having to add it to the seams?

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Wendi Dunlap-Simpson <litlnemo@slumberland.seattle.wa.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 03:12:03 -0700
Status: RO

At 5:46 AM -0400 5/31/02, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>Hi Wendi!!!!!
>
>I am also a Dunlap!!!!  There was another Dunlap on the list a while back...
>Hope!! Are you still there?  Dunlap in Scotland means... "one who knows a
>lot about what everyone else is wearing."  LOL!!!

And here I thought it meant something about a muddy hill or 
something... who knew? :) Are we related? My Dunlap ancestors come 
from Pennsylvania, but then again it seems as if most American 
Dunlaps are either from PA or KY.

I don't think I know that much about what everyone else is wearing... 
yet! But I am working on it. :)

I did just drive my husband nuts this week when we finally got around 
to watching Frontier House on the TiVo, because I was complaining 
that the women were dressed scandalously and running around in their 
underwear in public. He disagreed. Big argument! :)


-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Mourning clothes for late 17th c
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 07:55:56 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/31/02 1:22:40 AM SA Eastern Standard Time, 
Azelana@aol.com writes:

<<  Elizabeth Pepys was not at all impressed with her mother in law's death,
  because it was spring and she had just gotten a new fancy silk dress and 
was 
 so
  annoyed that the following year, when they would come out of mourning, it 
 would
  be out of fashion!  >>
 
 Wow!  Talk about self-centered!
 LOL >>

Well, it was her MOTHER_IN LAW!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 08:20:39 2002
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:09:33 -0400
Status: RO

I have added another website: A Year in Fashion: 1870.
http://www.costumegallery.com/LadysFriend/ It contains 2 color
fashion plates that you can click on each person in the plate and view an
enlargement with a description of the costume.  Articles in this issue are
about petticoats, caps, a swimsuit, and the History of Bonnets.  The Bonnet
article has a timeline pictorial.  If you click on a bonnet in the collage,
you will see an enlargement and details of it. There are also three more
pages of text linked under the timeline. We are working on pinning down the
dates a little more.  We have a couple of people looking at them who these
time periods are their specialty.  Please remember that this article was
written in 1870.

Now, I can finally go to sleep.....ZZZZZZZ my work is done!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 08:34:50 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:39:57 -0700
Status: RO

Wearing white....

It was always explained to me as an adaptation of military dress rules.
The Navy here in America wears "Dress Whites"  as the formal uniform for
the summer time.  And the rest of the year it is "Dress Blues".

Any way,  that's the story I was told.


Mari




Mari Stewart,  Cornell University,  Ithaca, NY
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 08:41:35 2002
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:30:04 -0400
Status: RO

Gosh....... I woke up on the keyboard... In the Color Plates section of A
Year in Fashion: 1870, the second plate.  It looks like a bridal party
ensemble.  But click on the little girl's image on the left.  The
description is for a 1st communion dress.  A first communion gown in July...
that is planning way in advance since first communion is around Easter time.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:31:36 -0400
Status: RO

Mari,

Have you ever heard of the start and cut off dates... you may have something
here.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:49:51 -0700
Status: RO

OK...  while I'm in the mode to spread information that I've only received
through hearsay....

On buttoning traditions for men and women...   here goes...

The story I've heard,  and can't substantiate,  is that the tradition
started in the Puritan circles of England.   The reason was to preserve
modesty.    In the Puritan tradition men sat on one side of the chuch,  and
women on the other...  the buttoning convention started as a way to prevent
accidental, or intentional peeking at the other sex,  should their clothes
gape between buttons.


Anyway,  that's the story.


Mari


Mari Stewart,  Cornell University,  Ithaca NY
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:07:21 -0700
Status: RO

Hey Penny -

I am not familiar with the dates set for the rollover of uniform.
However,  I'll bet that the ROTC group on campus would know.   A quick
search of the internet brings up way too many sites for me to find the
information quickly.


Mari


Mari Stewart,  Cornell University,  Ithaca, NY
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Subject: [h-cost] May Day
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:25:57 +0930
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>Hello,</DIV>
<DIV>this is not realy costume related, but can anyone tell me about mayday customs. I know that it is a spring time celebration. &nbsp;I have heard that it was a pagan custom, but I have also heard that it was also celebrated in the later centurys. Also&nbsp;what is the significance of the pole?</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca </DIV>
<DIV>aka</DIV>
<DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM301201/40'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttoning direction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:53:14 -0400
Status: RO

Well that is a new one!  APPLAUSE for finding a new version!  (quit finding
more places for me to research)

BTW, my husband checked on the U.S. Navy website... the official uniform
color for the season is "summer whites".  So is the U.S. Air Force's mess
dress... only to be worn in the summer.  He is searching for the start and
stop dates of the colors... of which I am sure the military has set dates
for wearing it... I didn't know my husband still had his white mess dress
from the Air Force until I asked about the dates a few minutes ago.

Now, I am really going to bed... my new cousin Wendi might talk about the
bags under my eyes and lack of change of clothing.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:01:57 -0400
Status: RO

Here is the answer to the question of the day (my fashion trivia husband
found it)
http://ae.boston.com/fashion/stories/white.htm  Look about half way down the
story.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:13:15 -0500
Status: RO

*~*At 5:21 AM -0400 5/31/02, Penny Ladnier wrote:
*~*>Yes, that has been the American tradition for as long as I 
*~*have been alive.
*~*>You can only wear the color white during those months... 
*~*meaning you can't
*~*>wear white in like the month of Oct.    You can wear other 
*~*colors year
*~*>around.
*~*

Growing up in the Southern part of the US and having a couple southern belle
grandmothers. . . I was always told that you could not wear white shoes,
gloves, or cardigan sweaters except during this period of time.    I was
never told why you couldn't, just that that was the rule.  And I have seen
people get nasty looks if they do so, especially in a church setting.

Tish Peavy
in the very hot and humid Alabama
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 07:25:21 -0600
Status: RO

Dunno, Penny....
And you might also want to consider if it's a regional thing--was it
more popular in some parts of the US than others, etc.? Or were certain
fibers (that happened to come more easily in lighter or bleached shades)
more appropriate for warm summer weather?
ISTR some corelative "fashion law" about only wearing navy during the
other half of the year.
(My brain is working slow this morning--I'm checking on email and
drinking tea before going to work)--Have you thought of checking with
those museums that have substantive clothing collections from the time
period most likely to be covered by this?
--Sue, mumbling back into bleary-eyed lurkdom....<g>

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Yes, that has been the American tradition for as long as I have been alive.
> You can only wear the color white during those months... meaning you can't
> wear white in like the month of Oct.    You can wear other colors year
> around.
> 
> Where in the world did this start?
> 
> Penny Ladnier
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:16:04 -0400
Status: RO

Tish,

I grew up in the deep South too... Mississippi Gulf Coast.  I'm a southern
belle too.. just live a little more north to Virginia now.  I was told the
same thing by my mom.  We are having an early Spring this year and have been
wearing my white sandal clogs for the past two months.  And against what
that article says about wearing out white shoes... I wear them everyday in
warm weather and they are four years old.  They still look great!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttoning direction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 07:29:31 -0600
Status: RO

Going to bed???? At almost 7 in the morning??? <g> Are you some sort of
serious night-owl, Penny?
--Sue, laughing
(the only version of button-direction I'm aware of is the one about
women needing assistance from right-handed maids, blah blah....)

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Well that is a new one!  APPLAUSE for finding a new version!  (quit finding
> more places for me to research)
> 
> BTW, my husband checked on the U.S. Navy website... the official uniform
> color for the season is "summer whites".  So is the U.S. Air Force's mess
> dress... only to be worn in the summer.  He is searching for the start and
> stop dates of the colors... of which I am sure the military has set dates
> for wearing it... I didn't know my husband still had his white mess dress
> from the Air Force until I asked about the dates a few minutes ago.
> 
> Now, I am really going to bed... my new cousin Wendi might talk about the
> bags under my eyes and lack of change of clothing.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttoning direction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:31:49 -0400
Status: RO

Now Sue... I normally work from 10PM to 5 or 6 AM.  My creatively flows late
at night.  I am up late today, because I wanted to finish that latest
section to the Gallery.  Now I am waiting for the phone repair service
person.  I know the second I fall a sleep, they will ring the door bell.

If I wasn't so tired, I would start a new section to the Gallery.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 09:49:36 2002
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From: "Peavy, Tish" <tish.peavy@yourcall.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:43:21 -0500
Status: RO

I have never worried much about it since I moved away from my parents house.
My mother was a big stickler for the "rules".   I usually start wearing
white sandals as soon as it get hot, which as you mentioned was about 2
months ago!   Maybe it has a lot to do with the heat and what is cooler. . .
at least for this part of the US?

Tish

*~*-----Original Message-----
*~*From: Penny Ladnier [mailto:penny@costumegallery.com]
*~*Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 8:16 AM
*~*To: h-costume@indra.com
*~*Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
*~*
*~*
*~*Tish,
*~*
*~*I grew up in the deep South too... Mississippi Gulf Coast.  
*~*I'm a southern
*~*belle too.. just live a little more north to Virginia now.  
*~*I was told the
*~*same thing by my mom.  We are having an early Spring this 
*~*year and have been
*~*wearing my white sandal clogs for the past two months.  And 
*~*against what
*~*that article says about wearing out white shoes... I wear 
*~*them everyday in
*~*warm weather and they are four years old.  They still look great!
*~*
*~*Penny Ladnier
*~*Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
*~*http://www.costumegallery.com
*~*http://www.costumeclassroom.com
*~*
*~*
*~*
*~*
*~*
*~*_______________________________________________
*~*h-costume mailing list
*~*h-costume@mail.indra.com
*~*http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
*~*
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 09:51:54 2002
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 07:48:48 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, man, girl....when do you *sleep*???, seeing as you're a mom-person
and all, on top of everything else????
--sue, a night person with a day job, who learned to adjust <g>

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Now Sue... I normally work from 10PM to 5 or 6 AM.  My creatively flows late
> at night.  I am up late today, because I wanted to finish that latest
> section to the Gallery.  Now I am waiting for the phone repair service
> person.  I know the second I fall a sleep, they will ring the door bell.
> 
> If I wasn't so tired, I would start a new section to the Gallery.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 09:59:45 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interlining a doublet
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 07:51:27 -0600
Status: RO

On Fri, May 31, 2002 at 10:51:30AM +0100, Rachel wrote:
> My question is how do I sew the interlining in without
> having to add it to the seams?

I would cut the interlining to the size of the lining piece without
the seam allowances, then mount the interlining on the lining.
Mounting is generally done by tacking the two fabrics together at
regular intervals.  You could also sew along the interlining edges -
it wouldn't be too noticeable when looking at the lining because the
stitches would be near the seams.

Then sew the lining and fabric together, and the interlining should
butt the seams but not be in them.

						...eliz
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:58:52 -0300
Status: RO



Have you noticed that you can wear white in the months you can't eat
oysters.  Now isn't that a comfort!

I grew up in the Kentucky Bluegrass area where the "white-shoe/straw hat"
rule was strictly adhered to.  Now that I live in New York City I think
white shoes - EVER - give you away as a tourist. Well, I always thought my
Kentucky dad looked pretty spiffy in his seersucker suit, white shoes and
straw hat.

Martha



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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:59:27 -0400
Status: RO

At 09:04 AM 5/31/02 +0100, you wrote:
>
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
>>>> penny@costumegallery.com 05/31/02 08:38am >>> wrote:
>>Where did the tradition of not wearing white until before Memorial Day and
>>not after Labor Day begin? Why is the trend fading out?  To me... it would
>>be start at Easter... since white has so much symbolism during the Easter
>>season... white communion and confirmation dresses.
>
>You'll have to explain this for the benefit of non-Americans, Penny. I know
from news bulletins that your Memorial Day happened recently (in Britain we
remember the war dead on Nov. 11th) but when is Labor Day and why may you
not wear white between them?


       Memorial day is a Holiday created to remember those that dies in the
American Civil War.  I think it used to be celebrated on an actual date  but
back when I was a child a number of holidays stopped being celebrated on
their actual date, but rather on a Monday near the date.  This allowed for
three day weekends. This is true of all three of the holidays I shall
mention in this post.  Memorial day always fall right around my birthday
(last week of May).  Labour day (honoring laborers) is early September.
These are often used to measure summer socially, and that is the reason for
the determination.  Though you have it backwards.  Those who followed this
rule ONLY wore white between these dates.

        This custom seems to have been more practiced here in the American
South, than where I grew up (California).  In fact I never even heard of it
until I moved here.  Further more there have been exceptions such as those
already mentioned.

       Nov. 11th is also a holiday here in the U.S.  Chosen for the same
reason as it is honoured in Britain, the ending of World War I (Eleventh
hour of the eleventh day, of the eleventh month).  Formally called Armistice
day, it was later changed to honor all veterans (veterens day) and it is
observed now on a Monday rather than the actual date.  Where I worked we
also used it to commerate emergency service personel last year, due to 9-11. 

I remain,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttoning direction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:01:39 -0400
Status: RO

I sleep while the kids are in school.  I wake up when they are coming home.
In the summertime... they sleep late too.  Not... all my kids are creative
too.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 07:58:18 -0700
Status: RO

"M.  Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu> wrote:
>On buttoning traditions for men and women...   here goes...
>
>The story I've heard,  and can't substantiate,  is that the tradition
>started in the Puritan circles of England.   The reason was to preserve
>modesty.    In the Puritan tradition men sat on one side of the chuch,  and
>women on the other...  the buttoning convention started as a way to prevent
>accidental, or intentional peeking at the other sex,  should their clothes
>gape between buttons.

This question came up on another list, so i researched it a bit.

The buttoning tradition didn't begin until the 19th century and the 
industrial mass production of clothing. In fact, it was not really 
standardized until the end of the 19th c./beginning of the 20th c.

Before then, it didn't matter or mean anything which way men's and 
women's clothes buttoned.

All the stories about swords and sex and secrets were romanticized 
explanations created in the 20th c. for something rather "mundane".

Anahita
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttoning direction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 11:47:14 -0700
Status: RO

Thank you -   It's always nice to clear these things up.   Mari


>
>This question came up on another list, so i researched it a bit.
>
>The buttoning tradition didn't begin until the 19th century and the
>industrial mass production of clothing. In fact, it was not really
>standardized until the end of the 19th c./beginning of the 20th c.
>
>Before then, it didn't matter or mean anything which way men's and
>women's clothes buttoned.
>
>All the stories about swords and sex and secrets were romanticized
>explanations created in the 20th c. for something rather "mundane".
>
>Anahita

Mari Stewart ,  Cornell University, Ithaca NY
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 07:13:18 +0000
Status: RO

Being a Northwesterner (Oregon), I don't think we really care out here.
White's just cooler in the summer, that's all. Where I live, open-toed
Birkies are popular all year long--the difference is wool socks, cotton
socks, or no socks!

I think it's more of a Northeastern thing.


					Arlys (clothes are for wearing, not for
					stressing over)

On Fri, 31 May 2002 07:25:21 -0600 Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> Dunno, Penny....
> And you might also want to consider if it's a regional thing--was it
> more popular in some parts of the US than others, etc.? 

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:00:03 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/31/02 10:12:22 AM SA Eastern Standard Time, 
tish.peavy@yourcall.com writes:

<< Growing up in the Southern part of the US and having a couple southern 
belle
 grandmothers. . . I was always told that you could not wear white shoes,
 gloves, or cardigan sweaters except during this period of time.    I was
 never told why you couldn't, just that that was the rule.  And I have seen
 people get nasty looks if they do so, especially in a church setting. >>

Me too.

No kidding! Wool [even light weight] was also not to be worn during this 
spring/summer season without side glances and the clicking of tongues at 
church. And of course brown shoes after 5:00pm [I was reminded of this by a 
Laugh In rerun!]. Not evening wear, y'know. Of course that was the rich 
social side of the family. My mother's people were well to do but lived out 
in the county on a farm and were not so tied to the same kind of rules. They 
had a whole different set.

I love Florence King's southern belle grandmother's advice like: "Never let a 
man sit in a chair you've just gotten up out of. The heat from your body will 
drive him wild!"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 12:42:49 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for Helleu prints
From: Agnes G <countess11@mac.com>
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:30:36 -0700
Status: RO

Danielle - I looked in the Library of Congress catalog and there are 5
entries but they are all old.  Neither my university library or city library
has any of them but here's the information in case it helps at all...

Coordinating council of French relief societies inc. New York.  and G. d.
Batz (1943). Helleu & Sargent drawings. New York City.

Helleu, P. (1907). A gallery of portraits : reproduced from original
etchings. London, Edward Arnold.

Montesquiou-Fâezensac, R. (1913). Paul Helleu, peintre et graveur. Paris,,
H. Floury.

Paris. Bibliotháeque nationale., J. Vallery-Radot, et al. (1955). Helleu;
exposition. Paris,.

Wedmore, F., B. Rogers, et al. (1901). Dry-points by Paul Helleu. New York,
Frederick Keppel & Co.


> From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>

> Greetings,
> 
> All you late 19th century and early 20th century folks out there might be
> able to help me...  I'm looking for prints and info in books on Paul-Cesar
> Helleu.  He did some beautiful portraits, many of which the women are
> wearing nice hats...he seemed to mainly concentrate on faces and heads,
> without a lot of detail, if any to the body and the rest of the
> clothes...  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle

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From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interlining a doublet
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:35:41 -0700
Status: RO

--=====================_5019937==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


Another way of doing it would be to treat the interlining as if you were 
flat-lining the garment.

I've seen 2 ways to help ease bulk in a seam area though neither one is 
particular fast. One way is to make sure you use a fairly long basting 
stitch when building the outer flat-lined garment. Just pull the threads 
after you have stitch your construction seams and then carefully trim or 
"grade" back the interlining as close to the construction seam as you dare. 
The thread takes up more room then you realize but be careful not trim the 
interlining too far back because depending on the weave of the interlining 
fabric, you could have the fibers open up and pull back with wear.

Another way, which is much more elegent but time consuming, is use a fairly 
long basting stitch when building the outer flat-lined garment and pull it 
like above. But in this case, trim the outer fabric seam back (but not the 
interlining) then iron all the seams open. Then carefully turn the 
interlining piece under and hand baste or whip stitch the interlining to 
the interlining. This is a flat-lining / lining hybrid that I've seen used 
with incredible results.

Personally, I mostly flat-line everything that's coat-ish and press the 
seams open then whip stitch the seams open. It's just a stability thing and 
I've found that I can wash almost anything pretty roughly and still have 
the garment retain it's shape without ironing. I'll do anything to not have 
to iron, including obsessive amounts of hand sewing apparently **laughs**

Whether these two are the period methods for that garment, I'd have to pull 
Arnold before I could say. I seriously doubt method # 2 is for 16th c. 
although it's close and could probably fall into the "Bicycles and Top 
Hats" category of costume construction rationalization.

And as always, use the above advice carefully - your mileage may vary >; )

At 07:51 AM 5/31/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>On Fri, May 31, 2002 at 10:51:30AM +0100, Rachel wrote:
> > My question is how do I sew the interlining in without
> > having to add it to the seams?
>
>I would cut the interlining to the size of the lining piece without
>the seam allowances, then mount the interlining on the lining.
>Mounting is generally done by tacking the two fabrics together at
>regular intervals.  You could also sew along the interlining edges -
>it wouldn't be too noticeable when looking at the lining because the
>stitches would be near the seams.
>
>Then sew the lining and fabric together, and the interlining should
>butt the seams but not be in them.
>
>                                                 ...eliz

Gwyn Carnegie, suffragette
University of California, Davis

--=====================_5019937==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<br>
Another way of doing it would be to treat the interlining as if you were
flat-lining the garment. <br><br>
I've seen 2 ways to help ease bulk in a seam area though neither one is
particular fast. One way is to make sure you use a fairly long basting
stitch when building the outer flat-lined garment. Just pull the threads
after you have stitch your construction seams and then carefully trim or
&quot;grade&quot; back the interlining as close to the construction seam
as you dare. The thread takes up more room then you realize but be
careful not trim the interlining too far back because depending on the
weave of the interlining fabric, you could have the fibers open up and
pull back with wear.<br><br>
Another way, which is much more elegent but time consuming, is use a
fairly long basting stitch when building the outer flat-lined garment and
pull it like above. But in this case, trim the outer fabric seam back
(but not the interlining) then iron all the seams open. Then carefully
turn the interlining piece under and hand baste or whip stitch the
interlining to the interlining. This is a flat-lining / lining hybrid
that I've seen used with incredible results.<br><br>
Personally, I mostly flat-line everything that's coat-ish and press the
seams open then whip stitch the seams open. It's just a stability thing
and I've found that I can wash almost anything pretty roughly and still
have the garment retain it's shape without ironing. I'll do anything to
not have to iron, including obsessive amounts of hand sewing apparently
**laughs** <br><br>
Whether these two are the period methods for that garment, I'd have to
pull Arnold before I could say. I seriously doubt method # 2 is for 16th
c. although it's close and could probably fall into the &quot;Bicycles
and Top Hats&quot; category of costume construction rationalization.
<br><br>
And as always, use the above advice carefully - your mileage may vary
&gt;; )<br><br>
At 07:51 AM 5/31/2002 -0600, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>On Fri, May 31, 2002 at 10:51:30AM
+0100, Rachel wrote:<br>
&gt; My question is how do I sew the interlining in without<br>
&gt; having to add it to the seams?<br><br>
I would cut the interlining to the size of the lining piece without<br>
the seam allowances, then mount the interlining on the lining.<br>
Mounting is generally done by tacking the two fabrics together at<br>
regular intervals.&nbsp; You could also sew along the interlining edges
-<br>
it wouldn't be too noticeable when looking at the lining because 
the<br>
stitches would be near the seams.<br><br>
Then sew the lining and fabric together, and the interlining should<br>
butt the seams but not be in them.<br><br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>...eliz</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie</b></font>, suffragette<br>
<b>University of California, Davis <br>
</b></html>

--=====================_5019937==_.ALT--

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Photos
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:45:13 -0700
Status: RO

Congratulations to you on this fine costume.  As one of the Masquerade 
judges on the spot, I assure everyone the costume is very nicely made (we 
ignored the Birkenstocks the model was wearing).  His two awards were, as I 
recall, a 'Best Workmanship' award (in class? in show?) and a 'Best 
Historical' in the so-called 'Pro' class.  (We're working on getting BayCon 
to call that class something which doesn't imply doing costuming for a 
living, as calling it 'Pro' lets non-pro several-time winners get away with 
entering the 'Novice' class, their only other option.)

In person one can see the little details which got this costume the 
workmanship award.  These include metal aiglets with the lacing ribbons 
sewn to beads at the tips so they don't come out.  There are artificial 
leaves in the shoulder puffings and added to the purchased mask.  All the 
edges are nicely finished, even under the arm where they mostly didn't 
show.  The lining looked good too (we peeked).

>Over the weekend I won two awards at BayCon 2002 a SF Convention in San
>Jose.  You can see the winning costume at:
>
>http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costume101/Green_Man.htm
>
>Lord Vich (Stephen Bergdahl)


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:47:49 -0700
Status: RO


>Where did the tradition of not wearing white until before Memorial Day and
>not after Labor Day begin? Why is the trend fading out?  To me... it would
>be start at Easter... since white has so much symbolism during the Easter
>season... white communion and confirmation dresses.

My grandmother who was born in 1880 said it was no white shoes till after 
Easter, and stop wearing them about Labour Day.  She didn't say why, or how 
long it had been the custom.  I suspect the custom is at least as old as 
she is, but can't prove it.  My grandmother adhered to the rule, but didn't 
insist that anyone else did (my mother didn't), and she never left the 
house without hat and gloves either.

This branch of the family comes from New England, upstate New York, 
Wisconsin, and Montana, and this grandmother lived in California since my 
mother was little.


Kayta
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting recognized (WAS: Lurking)
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:17:44 -0700
Status: RO

Yes, I've had this happen, too.  At the Renn Faire we recently produced,
one of the booth people needed scissors for something, and was told to go
look for Margo Anderson. Two other people nearby exclaimed, "You mean THE
Margo Anderson is here?"

I call this condition being a "microcelebrity".  Danielle, Teddy, and I,
among others,  enjoy international fame (or is it notoriety?) due to this
list and others like it,  but the actual number of people who know of us is
probably a few thousand or less.  Ah, well, if I'd wanted fame on a big
scale I'd have stuck to my teenage goal of being a rock star.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: Cin <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting recognized (WAS: Lurking)
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:19:05 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

> The Spy's Guidebook doesn't tell 
> you about "hiding in plain sight" and being so obvious no-one would 
> suspect you.

Teddy, I'm pretty sure George Smiley wears gray, not orange.  I'm sure it's in
the book under "innocuous". <grin>

(1) ref. "Smiley's People", "The Honorable Schoolboy", and all those other
books by John LeCarré.



=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 11:23:43 -0600
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>http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costume101/Green_Man.htm

I'm glad Stephen had a good experience with Realm of Regalia, as Kathy
really enjoys her business.  She can also be found at Pennsic, where I
got some truly lovely Chinese-motif trims from her last year.

						...eliz

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] interlining a doublet
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 There are two ways of interlining a doublet properly (without stitching the interlining into the seams.
The first (as already suggested) is to stitch the interlining to the lining using an even running stitch (this is the best way if the doublet has a peascod front, because you can stitch in the padding as you go. It's also the best for anything with a silk outer, as the stitching is only visible internally).
The second, if the outer of the doublet is of woollen fabric, the interlining should be pad stitched in.  Pad stitching is a tailoring technique.  You work up and down the piece, before making up, holding it over your left hand.  You make a horizontal stitch, catching as little as possible of the outer fabric (no more than a single thread is needed), and then move down to do the next stitch, so you end up with no stitching visible on the right side, but columns of long diagonal stitches on the wrong side.
Both of the above methods are used in extant examples in various museums (and can also be seen in Arnold).
hope this helps,
Debbie (Deborah Lough Costumes)
  



---------------------------------
Sign up to watch the FIFA World Cup video highlights from your desk!

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<P> There are two ways of interlining a doublet properly (without stitching the interlining into the seams.
<P>The first&nbsp;(as already suggested) is to stitch the interlining to the lining using an even running stitch (this is the best way if the doublet has a peascod front, because you can stitch in the padding as you go. It's also the best for anything with a silk outer, as the stitching is only visible internally).
<P>The second, if the outer of the doublet is of woollen fabric, the interlining should be pad stitched in.&nbsp; Pad stitching is a tailoring technique.&nbsp; You work up and down the piece, before making up, holding it over your left hand.&nbsp; You make a horizontal stitch, catching as little as possible of the outer fabric (no more than a single thread is needed), and then move down to do the next stitch, so you end up with no stitching visible on the right side, but columns of long diagonal stitches on the wrong side.
<P>Both of the above methods are used in extant examples in various museums (and can also be seen in Arnold).
<P>hope this helps,
<P>Debbie (Deborah Lough Costumes)
<P>&nbsp; </P><p><br><hr size=1><b><a href=http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_vip/?http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com/fc/en/spl>Sign up to watch the FIFA World Cup video highlights from your desk!</a></b><br><br>

<a href=http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_fifa/?http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com/fc/en>http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com/fc/en</a>
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:36:50 -0700 (PDT)
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"T-shirts that fuse geek culture with high fashion."

Hmm, not exactly haute couture... except in Silicon Valley.

"Want to make a big splash at the next Def Con? LAN Party? Office meeting? Do
you work in tech support? Have you ever used Windows for even a brief moment?
Be the envy of anyone who has ever crashed."

http://www.errorwear.com/errorwear.html




=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:22:46 -0400 (EDT)
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On Fri, 31 May 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> You'll have to explain this for the benefit of non-Americans, Penny. I know from news bulletins that your Memorial Day happened recently (in Britain we remember the war dead on Nov. 11th) but when is Labor Day and why may you not wear white between them?

One can wear white shoes between Memorial Day (last Monday in May) and
Labor Day (first Monday in September), i.e. for summer, but not between
Labor Day and Memorial Day (i.e., fall, winter and spring), except for
Easter.  I always heard this applied to shoes, not to clothing in general.

Winter whites (ecru, off-white) are allowed, however, during the fall,
winter and spring seasons.

I don't know where this started, or why, but since I hardly ever wear
white (I'm sure to get something on it), I've never paid it much attention
anyway!

-- Mara

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:23:25 -0400
Status: RO

Couldn't you call the levels "Beginner" and "Experienced"?

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Photos


> Congratulations to you on this fine costume.  As one of the Masquerade
> judges on the spot, I assure everyone the costume is very nicely made (we
> ignored the Birkenstocks the model was wearing).  His two awards were, as
I
> recall, a 'Best Workmanship' award (in class? in show?) and a 'Best
> Historical' in the so-called 'Pro' class.  (We're working on getting
BayCon
> to call that class something which doesn't imply doing costuming for a
> living, as calling it 'Pro' lets non-pro several-time winners get away
with
> entering the 'Novice' class, their only other option.)


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 14:50:38 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttoning direction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:38:26 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

That might work, _except_ that for most of the 17th and 18th centuries,
women's clothing didn't frequently button.  Hooks and eyes and lacing were
much more common on women's clothing, except for man-styled garments like
riding habits, which would be worn with a waistcoat underneath anyway,
rendering the idea of 'peeking' a bit useless...  and gowns with comperes
(buttoning stomachers) appear toward the end of the 18th c., too, but I
doubt that the descendants of the original Puritans cared that much about
that sort of thing.

I still suspect that it's mostly a Victorian thing, having to do with
clothing being ready-made...  I think when we discussed this before,
someone did a survey of 18th c. costume and found that clothes could and
did button either way.

Cheers,
Mara

On Fri, 31 May 2002, M.  Stewart wrote:

> OK...  while I'm in the mode to spread information that I've only received
> through hearsay....
>
> On buttoning traditions for men and women...   here goes...
>
> The story I've heard,  and can't substantiate,  is that the tradition
> started in the Puritan circles of England.   The reason was to preserve
> modesty.    In the Puritan tradition men sat on one side of the chuch,  and
> women on the other...  the buttoning convention started as a way to prevent
> accidental, or intentional peeking at the other sex,  should their clothes
> gape between buttons.
>
>
> Anyway,  that's the story.
>
>
> Mari

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:46:03 -0700
Status: RO


As an American girl, I must just have been badly brought up, because I never 
even heard about this tradition until I was in COLLEGE! (Los Angeles, late 
60s-mid 70s).  We always had white shoes for Easter, and it just never 
occurred to me (or anyone I ever heard of) to think about it.  Eventually, I 
had a friend in college who assumed I knew all about this, presumably 
because Maggie knows everything ;) but I learned it from her!

So I still don't know why you weren't supposed to wear white only in the 
summer.  I'm just happy no one seems to care any more, if they ever did.


MaggiRos


>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
>Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 05:21:27 -0400
>
>Yes, that has been the American tradition for as long as I have been alive.
>You can only wear the color white during those months... meaning you can't
>wear white in like the month of Oct.    You can wear other colors year
>around.
>
>Where in the world did this start?
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:54:24 -0700
Status: RO


LOL, well there must be some truth in it at least, although you have to 
wonder why the idea only seems to caught on in the States.

On white shoes: The same friend's mother used to say "Some people have big 
feet; some people wear white shoes."


MaggiRos
~killing time at work




>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
>Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:01:57 -0400
>
>Here is the answer to the question of the day (my fashion trivia husband
>found it)
>http://ae.boston.com/fashion/stories/white.htm  Look about half way down 
>the
>story.
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_________________________________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Portrait at auction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:08:37 -0600
Status: RO

There's an interesting portrait at Sotheby's:

<http://search.sothebys.com/browse/viewLot/lotDetail.jsp?LOT_ID=3PB3T>

MD/Marged
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mid 13th century Danish Clothing sources
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 10:19:39 -0700
Status: RO

At 12:06 PM -0400 5/30/02, Morses3@aol.com wrote:
>I'm considering focusing on this era and place and wonder if there 
>are any sources people could suggest for garb ideas. I realize this 
>is later than the usual Viking things and I'm wondering if the 
>clothes were the same as the rest of Europe at this point..

I highly recommend looking at Marc Carlsen's web pages on surviving 
medieval garments 
<http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html>. 
He has a good proportion of the Scandinavian material from that 
general era, and it will give you a good starting point for 
look-and-feel.  You're correct in supposing that the styles look a 
lot more "generic northern European" by that point, and not at all 
"Viking".

(I have a very vivid recollection of answering a question 
specifically about 13th century Danish clothing on _some_ costume 
list previously, so you might want to search the archives and see 
what turns up.)

Heather Jones
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] May Day
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:18:06 -0700
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I believe it is a phallic symbol, representing the union of Father Sky =
with Mother Earth in the Heiros Gamos or Great Marriage/Rite.



                        ,%%%,
Joan Broneske       --=3D=3D% `%%%,
unicorn@softcom.net     |' )`%%,
                        \_/\ @%%,
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                             ||       ///`
                             /(      //(
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Rebecca Anderson=20
  To: h-costume@net.indra.com=20
  Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 5:55 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] May Day


  Hello,
  this is not realy costume related, but can anyone tell me about mayday =
customs. I know that it is a spring time celebration.  I have heard that =
it was a pagan custom, but I have also heard that it was also celebrated =
in the later centurys. Also what is the significance of the pole?
  Rebecca=20
  aka
  Lady Adele Anders


-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
  Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
  _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list =
h-costume@mail.indra.com =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=20

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>I believe it is a phallic symbol, =
representing=20
the union of Father Sky with Mother Earth in the Heiros Gamos or Great=20
Marriage/Rite.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
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size=3D2><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
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href=3D"mailto:unicorn@softcom.net">unicorn@softcom.net</A>&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;=20
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;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
/(&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; //(</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dlady_adele@hotmail.com =
href=3D"mailto:lady_adele@hotmail.com">Rebecca=20
  Anderson</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@net.indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com">h-costume@net.indra.com</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, May 31, 2002 5:55 =
AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] May Day</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>
  <DIV>Hello,</DIV>
  <DIV>this is not realy costume related, but can anyone tell me about =
mayday=20
  customs. I know that it is a spring time celebration. &nbsp;I have =
heard that=20
  it was a pagan custom, but I have also heard that it was also =
celebrated in=20
  the later centurys. Also&nbsp;what is the significance of the =
pole?</DIV>
  <DIV>Rebecca </DIV>
  <DIV>aka</DIV>
  <DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV></DIV><BR clear=3Dall>
  <HR>
  Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: <A=20
  href=3D"http://g.msn.com/1HM301201/40">Click=20
  Here</A><BR>_______________________________________________ h-costume =
mailing=20
  list h-costume@mail.indra.com =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=20
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 17:36:55 2002
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 17:39:08 -0400
Status: RO

I'm new on your list, sort of.  Been reading a while.
Not new to clothes, though, so here's my 2 cents if you
don't mind.

	Years ago, before the the development of machines to pick
seeds out of the cotton, most people only had 2 choices of
material ----wool or cotton.
	Working, or playing, on a warm summer day, wearing wool
doesn't appeal to me very much, and probably didn't to the
earlier Americans either.  So the only good alternative was
linen, which was easy to wash, easier to bleach than to dye,
and actually stronger when it's damp, humid, and wet.

	It looks lovely when trimmed with quite simple techniques
such as pleats or lace edging, or embroidery, including
white on white, and can be easily  starched and ironed to be
crisp and delightful.

	As for the dates, the weather has been changing lately, but
those dates were established more or less in the northeast
US, and that's just about when the weather changes.  Easter
moves around, but white has been favored for Easter, first
communion, and baptism for a very long time, as symbols of
purity and innocence.
	 Memorial Day, May 30, and Labor Day, the first Monday in
Sept., were  established at a time when people generally
lived more formally than we do now, and the custom of
delineating the change of seasons that way developed very
quickly, a holdover from detailed Victorian formality.
	And they do coincide with the change of seasons very well,
along with major changes in activities. In NYS, school still
starts right after Labor Day.  With a little luck, Memorial
Day is also the end of the spring mud season, and it becomes
reasonably practical to wear white shoes for a 3 or 4
months.  We get a lot of rain in the fall again, and all the
kids grew over the summer and need new shoes for school, so
it's back to dark ones.

	So the white/dark is both practical, comfortable,
appropriate, and makes a nice decided start and end to the
fashion season, so nobody had to wonder or worry about what
was appropriate for an occasion.

Diane S.






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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri May 31 18:35:33 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:27:18 -0400
Status: RO

At 02:22 PM 5/31/02 -0400, you wrote:
>On Fri, 31 May 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>> You'll have to explain this for the benefit of non-Americans, Penny. I
know from news bulletins that your Memorial Day happened recently (in
Britain we remember the war dead on Nov. 11th) but when is Labor Day and why
may you not wear white between them?
>
>One can wear white shoes between Memorial Day (last Monday in May) and
>Labor Day (first Monday in September), i.e. for summer, but not between
>Labor Day and Memorial Day (i.e., fall, winter and spring), except for
>Easter.  I always heard this applied to shoes, not to clothing in general.
>
>Winter whites (ecru, off-white) are allowed, however, during the fall,
>winter and spring seasons.
>
>I don't know where this started, or why, but since I hardly ever wear
>white (I'm sure to get something on it), I've never paid it much attention
>anyway!
>
>-- Mara


                Here in Virginia it is clothing, NOT just shoes, and many
women still conform to the custom

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 19:11:28 -0400
Status: RO

	In the U.S., Memorial Day is, or was, May 30, a national
holiday, when people used to go to the cemetaries and fix
them up for the summer, and have family get-togethers.
	Now it has been moved to the nearest Monday, along with
some other holidays, to create 3 day weekends and avoid
breaking up the workweek so much, so it was officially
observed last Monday, and yes, at least in the northeast, as
it usually is done freezing by now, traditionally cemetary
urns are filled and people do spruce up graves.  I believe
it originally was in honor of those who died in the Civil
War, around 1860.
	There also are lots of parades and ceremonies, but
primarily it honors those who have died.

	We also do Veterans Day, Nov. 11.  Generally too cold for
many parades in the northeast, but there are lots of
ceremonies and things, usually to honor living war veterans
as well as the dead. That, of course, originated at the end
of WW2, just like yours.  The 11th hour, of the 11th day.

	We have a whole bunch of other patriotic holidays too,
almost one a month.  I'm a church organist, and it gets to
be a challenge to find something seasonal to play, that's
appropriate, that's not the same things all the time.

Diane S.




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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait at auction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:24:03 -0700
Status: RO

Great sleeves!


>From: Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>, SCA Garb List <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
>Subject: [h-cost] Portrait at auction
>Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:08:37 -0600
>
>There's an interesting portrait at Sotheby's:
>
><http://search.sothebys.com/browse/viewLot/lotDetail.jsp?LOT_ID=3PB3T>
>
>MD/Marged
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait at auction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:41:35 -0500
Status: RO

Earlier this week I got my catalog of auction catalogs from Sotheby's. There
is a huge amount of auctions for Old Masterworks happening in June alone. I
would recommend that we all visit the site frequently for design
inspiration! :)

Sincerely,
Franchesca Vecchio Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary Denise Smith" <costumemag@costumemag.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; "SCA Garb List"
<SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 3:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Portrait at auction


> There's an interesting portrait at Sotheby's:
>
> <http://search.sothebys.com/browse/viewLot/lotDetail.jsp?LOT_ID=3PB3T>
>
> MD/Marged
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:02:50 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/31/2002 8:58:39 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
penny@costumegallery.com writes:

<< Well that is a new one!  APPLAUSE for finding a new version!  (quit finding
 more places for me to research) >>
I heard that version a long time ago.  But, as I alluded to in my first 
posting on the subject this time around, it doesn't really make sense, 
because women were not wearing garments that buttoned in front as a general 
rule during the Cromwell period.  So it sounds very much like a much later 
explanation.
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:01:29 EDT
Status: RO

And it always turns cold here in Washington the first week Navy whites are to 
be worn!
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:04:07 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/31/2002 9:12:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
tish.peavy@yourcall.com writes:

<< gloves,  >>
I think white gloves are correct all the time, but definitely the white shoes 
are restricted (except, as Miss Mannners pointed out, for brides and tennis 
players).
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Patriotic Holidays
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:08:39 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

> In the U.S., Memorial Day is, or was, May 30, a national
> holiday, when people used to go to the cemetaries and fix
> them up for the summer, and have family get-togethers.

It was originally called Decoration Day, but the focus was always on the war
dead (although it's often a tradition to visit any family gravesites on that
weekend, not just veterans')

> We also do Veterans Day, Nov. 11.  Generally too cold for
> many parades in the northeast, but there are lots of
> ceremonies and things, usually to honor living war veterans
> as well as the dead. That, of course, originated at the end
> of WW2, just like yours.  The 11th hour, of the 11th day.

The difference being is that poppies are sold here on Memorial Day (if you
see them at all--they're not as ubiquitous as in Canada or Britain) as
opposed to around November 11, and most people you run into have no clue as
to why poppies were chosen.

Susan

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] buttoning direction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:26:43 -0400
Status: RO

	For a woman, who would be most apt to be holding a baby in
her left arm, it would be the most convenient to reach
across and unfasten something with her right hand and pull
it open, whether it be pinned, hooked, or buttoned,
especially when it comes to nursing a baby.

	I know, not all, but *most* people are right handed.

	For a man, it goes back to leaving the sword or weapon or
working arm free, usually the right arm, so it would be more
logical to be able to reach across with the left hand and
unfasten a jacket or whatever.  Formally, the woman still
tradionally stands at the man's left, so his sword arm is
free to defend her (or hold the horse)----and it goes back
that far, w-a-y back.

	The clothes fastening customs are more ancient than people
think, as are many others.

Diane S.


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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:19:00 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 5/31/02 8:01:36 PM SA Eastern Standard Time, 
STRAIGHT@infoblvd.net writes:

<<  those who died in the Civil
 War, around 1860. >>


Not to be too picky but in 1860, the Civil War hadn't started yet. It wasn't 
over 'til April of '65 so Memorial Day has to start after that. More than 
half the decade through.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Patriotic Holidays
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 20:29:27 -0500
Status: RO

>
> > We also do Veterans Day, Nov. 11.  Generally too cold for
> > many parades in the northeast, but there are lots of
> > ceremonies and things, usually to honor living war veterans
> > as well as the dead. That, of course, originated at the end
> > of WW2, just like yours.  The 11th hour, of the 11th day.

I need to butt in here..but Veterans day was originally Armistice Day,
honoring the end of WWI not WWII.  The reason I am so clear on this is that
my fathers birthday is Nov 11, 1923 and as a child he always thought the
parades were partially in honor of his birthday.
Karen Verschoor
http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm
Houston, TX

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] American Patriotic Holidays
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:42:23 -0400
Status: RO

<<<<<<,around November 11, and most people you run into have
no clue as
to why poppies were chosen.>>>>>.

	I do.  From the poem, "In Flanders Fields".  In Flanders
Fields, where poppies grow, among the crosses row on
row................."  World War I.

	My husband's uncle was killed in France in that war.  He
was a teacher and a high school principal, he volunteered.
There's a book about him, I think the title is "Let's Go".
His wife never married again.  My husband is named after
him.

	His mother and sister went on a government sponsored trip
to Europe for Gold Star Mothers, to visit Flanders Fields
and the cemetaries there.  The poppies were blooming,
apparently they grow wild there like we have daisies. She
brought back seeds from them and they grew.

	The house is just up the road from me, we still own it, and
the poppies are in blossom now.  I think they are about what
are called Iceland Poppies, annuals, they don't last very
long in the spring, but do reseed themselves.  And they are
that particular orange color.

Diane S.





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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:52:49 -0400
Status: RO

You know, you're absolutely right!  I had forgotten about
that.
Too much time spent just sittin' and thinkin' today.

That's neat, parades on his birthday!

Smiles,
Diane S.

<<<<<I need to butt in here..but Veterans day was originally
Armistice Day,
honoring the end of WWI not WWII.  The reason I am so clear
on this is that
my fathers birthday is Nov 11, 1923 and as a child he always




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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:20:55 -0700
Status: RO

At 04:24 PM 05/31/2002 -0700, Maggie Secara wrote:
>Great sleeves!


And I love the fur trim.  Interesting cut on the robe/overgown thingie,
including little pendant sleeve bits hanging down in back.

Now where did I put that box of fur?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:19:10 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:45 AM 5/31/02 -0700, you wrote:
>We're working on getting BayCon to call that class something which doesn't 
>imply doing costuming for a living, as calling it 'Pro' lets non-pro 
>several-time winners get away with entering the 'Novice' class, their only 
>other option.)

Aren't the classes usually "Novice", "Journeyman" and "Master" for costume 
competitions?

Sheryl Nance-Durst

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:32:35 -0700
Status: RO

You know, I jsut checked the estimated price on this painting.  I did NOT
need to know that I could own an original Gheerharts for $2-3000.  Ten
times that would be impossible, but $2-3000 has me thinking..."if I just
start making costumes for money again---and pack lunches, and drive the old
clunker car for another year....."  

Oh, dear, I'm in trouble now.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:30:54 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. It's funny that you should be discussing this subject. I just had a
class of 4th Graders (10-11 year olds to our European associates) out at our
historic site. I was trying to explain to them the changes that have occurred in
clothing in the past 50 years, to make it relevant regarding the clothing I was
wearing (1630s-40s). I had to explain to them that in their grandfather/mother's
times ( 40 or 50 years ago), it was considered impolite, even in the summer, to
be out and about without a hat and jacket on for most folks. I was trying to
explain the reason that I was wearing a shirt (singlet, and long-sleeved, at
that) with a doublet. I told them that their dress (short pants and tee shirts,
sneakers with no socks, etc.) would have been positively scandalous to not only
folks of the early colonial period, but folks only a few generations back. By the
looks on their faces, I think some of them thought I was kidding! I still have
horrible memories of going to Sunday school in a (lightweight, but still
uncomfortable) wool suit in the spring, and being so relieved when I was able to
wear my light blue cotton seersucker suit as it became hotter.  Mike T. (a child
of the 60s, literally)

>
>
> No kidding! Wool [even light weight] was also not to be worn during this
> spring/summer season without side glances and the clicking of tongues at
> church.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait at auction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:21:27 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO

On Fri, 31 May 2002, Margo Anderson wrote:

> You know, I jsut checked the estimated price on this painting.  I did NOT
> need to know that I could own an original Gheerharts for $2-3000.

Before you rebudget, take note that it's not an original Gheerhaerts. It's
"circle of" or "manner of" Gheerharts. One of the images shows the
signature: 'Marcus Optima re../filius/ Fra Lovell'. I have no clue who he
is. I bet someone does somewhere, but the appraisers don't seem to have
come to a date, and you'd think that if there was information on Marcus
Optima (or his father) there would at least be a ballpark lifetime.

Also read the restoration details.

Still, a good price for a decently sized work. It would be better to get a
real-life look at it, though, and possibly an independent appraisal. But
you have only five days to do it before the bidding ends.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait at auction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:10:17 -0500
Status: RO

I agree with Robin, I took one look at the portrait and knew there was
something not right about it. The details are in the page about the number
of restorations and worst of all they could not see the under painting. That
is pretty good indication that something is not right. BUT definitely great
sleeves, that is the only thing they seem to say is of the original
painting, it is the thinnest part and has no touch ups.

Sincerely,
Franchesca Vecchio Havas
McKinney, Texas
  `°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait at auction


> On Fri, 31 May 2002, Margo Anderson wrote:
>
> > You know, I jsut checked the estimated price on this painting.  I did
NOT
> > need to know that I could own an original Gheerharts for $2-3000.
>
> Before you rebudget, take note that it's not an original Gheerhaerts. It's
> "circle of" or "manner of" Gheerharts. One of the images shows the
> signature: 'Marcus Optima re../filius/ Fra Lovell'. I have no clue who he
> is. I bet someone does somewhere, but the appraisers don't seem to have
> come to a date, and you'd think that if there was information on Marcus
> Optima (or his father) there would at least be a ballpark lifetime.
>
> Also read the restoration details.
>
> Still, a good price for a decently sized work. It would be better to get a
> real-life look at it, though, and possibly an independent appraisal. But
> you have only five days to do it before the bidding ends.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing White
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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 00:11:54 EDT
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In a message dated 5/31/02 9:48:48 AM Pacific Daylight Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:


> My grandmother who was born in 1880 said it was no white shoes till after 
> Easter, and stop wearing them about Labor Day.  She didn't say why, or how 
> long it had been the custom.  I suspect the custom is at least as old as 
> she is, but can't prove it.  My grandmother adhered to the rule, but didn't 
> 
> insist that anyone else did (my mother didn't), and she never left the 
> house without hat and gloves either.
> 
> 

My grandmother also had this rule ... along with a lady never goes out 
without gloves. My grandmother was also born in 1880 and she was from 
Oklahoma.  So it cannot just be a southern or eastern custom

Osmondia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 5/31/02 9:48:48 AM Pacific Daylight Time, kayta@frys.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">My grandmother who was born in 1880 said it was no white shoes till after <BR>
Easter, and stop wearing them about Labor Day.&nbsp; She didn't say why, or how <BR>
long it had been the custom.&nbsp; I suspect the custom is at least as old as <BR>
she is, but can't prove it.&nbsp; My grandmother adhered to the rule, but didn't <BR>
insist that anyone else did (my mother didn't), and she never left the <BR>
house without hat and gloves either.<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
My grandmother also had this rule ... along with a lady never goes out without gloves. My grandmother was also born in 1880 and she was from Oklahoma.&nbsp; So it cannot just be a southern or eastern custom<BR>
<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jun  1 00:21:28 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] buttoning direction
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:36:04 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Fri, 31 May 2002, STRAIGHT wrote:

> 	For a woman, who would be most apt to be holding a baby in her
> left arm, it would be the most convenient to reach across and unfasten
> something with her right hand and pull it open, whether it be pinned,
> hooked, or buttoned, especially when it comes to nursing a baby. ...
> 	For a man, it goes back to leaving the sword or weapon or
> working arm free, usually the right arm, so it would be more logical
> to be able to reach across with the left hand and unfasten a jacket or
> whatever.  Formally, the woman still tradionally stands at the man's
> left, so his sword arm is free to defend her (or hold the
> horse)----and it goes back that far, w-a-y back.

All logical-sounding theories, reprinted in plenty of trivia books, but
I'd hold with the person who noted that such explanations are
retrospective hypotheses with little grounding in fact: They sound as
though they should make sense, but there's no evidence in life that that's
how people behave. And the fact that there are so many different, equally
logical-sounding explanations makes them all suspicious.

It's like the one about maids dressing women and men dressing themselves,
and thus needing different directions of buttoning.  But in the periods in
which this supposedly occurred, both men and women of the upper class had
servants who dressed them. And someone else has already pointed out the
problems with the Puritan church seating theory.

The thing is, you can get used to either direction of buttoning, from
inside or outside, just from habit. I wear men's shirts at least half the
time. I switch back and forth randomly, with equal adeptness.  I nursed
both my kids, and if there were an advantage to unbuttoning in a
particular direction when one-handed, believe me, I'd have noticed it.

Periodically some researcher takes a look at extant garments and comes up
with the finding that centuries of examples show no standardized direction
by gender. The standardization is fairly recent.

(I think it's just a plot of the dry cleaners, who charge more to clean a
woman's plain shirt than a man's -- and the only way they can tell the
difference is the button direction.)

--Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Photos
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:43:56 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Fri, 31 May 2002, Sheryl Nance-Durst wrote:

> At 09:45 AM 5/31/02 -0700, you wrote:
> >We're working on getting BayCon to call that class something which doesn't 
> >imply doing costuming for a living, as calling it 'Pro' lets non-pro 
> >several-time winners get away with entering the 'Novice' class, their only 
> >other option.)
> 
> Aren't the classes usually "Novice", "Journeyman" and "Master" for
> costume competitions?

I've heard that one only in the SCA. I haven't seen many non-SCA costume
competitions, so perhaps it's used elsewhere; I wouldn't know.

However, I've judged non-costume artwork at a variety of conventions
(unrelated to reenactment) where the distinction is "amateur" vs.
"professional." I can remember repeated problems with people who swept the
amateur categories every year and insisted that they belonged there
because they didn't make their living doing artwork, or didn't do art
full-time (even if they made a sizable chunk of money from it).

Enough cases of that, and the event planners will write a rule that says
the judges can recategorize any entrant at will. Which has its own
problems: "That artist's work is too good for an amateur -- put it in
pro."

A better move is to decree that anyone who has won X number of awards as
"amateur" must enter as "pro" the following year, or that once you've won
a category as amateur you move up for that category, or something. But,
hey, that requires year-to-year record-keeping.

--Robin

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I'm with you Ron... Virginians are very traditional.  We suck up every bit
of history we can and hang on to it.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:55:18 -0700
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Oh god, Margo, we really ARE the same person!  I had the exact thought!


MaggiRos


>From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait at auction
>Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:32:35 -0700
>
>You know, I jsut checked the estimated price on this painting.  I did NOT
>need to know that I could own an original Gheerharts for $2-3000.  Ten
>times that would be impossible, but $2-3000 has me thinking..."if I just
>start making costumes for money again---and pack lunches, and drive the old
>clunker car for another year....."
>
>Oh, dear, I'm in trouble now.
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>

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Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> On Fri, 31 May 2002, Sheryl Nance-Durst wrote:
> > Aren't the classes usually "Novice", "Journeyman" and "Master" for
> > costume competitions?
> 
> I've heard that one only in the SCA. I haven't seen many non-SCA costume
> competitions, so perhaps it's used elsewhere; I wouldn't know.

No, the normal classes at the major sci-fi cons are indeed Novice, 
Journeyman, and Master.  There's a set number of wins that move you up
from each class.  Problem is, BayCon is no longer considered one of the
"major" cons, partially because they've loosened the rules both for 
participation and for the classes.  When it was still a major competition,
I won a technical award for the mars enviornment suit that my husband and
I built.  I was the only person backstage who _didn't_ complain about how
hot it was, because I'd built a liquid-cooled garment into the suit.  That
was the only "real" competition I've entered.

Last year, I won best in class for Novice with my hall costume.  The Lady
Luck costume was a good example of what you can do when your sewing machine
is broken.  All the applique was done with double-faced iron-on interfacing,
edged with fabric paint and glitter.  All the rhinestones were glued on.
The only really impressive parts of the costume (in my opinion) were the
headpiece (I made a wirework crown and covered it with cut crystal beads
by hand, then did a four-layer veil) and the sceptor (I built it using an
antique glass doorknob as the topper and painted the shaft with the four
card suits).  It was a _great_ hall costume.  It probably wouldn't have
even placed as a masquerade costume at one of the major competitions.

I _am_ tempted to take the Jedi Librarian idea and run with it...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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