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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "sorry" vs. "excuse me";  behavior and
  cultures
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 00:54:14 -0500
Status: RO

Pardon for combining several days' posts... I'm first catching up on 
digests from about two weeks' combined vacation and holidays with limited 
mail-reading time.

On 27 Nov 2002 19:35:27 -0500, Gail Finke wrote:

>In the US, people try not to bump into you in the first place.

Unless you're riding mass transit in NYC during rush hour. Then the Men In 
Suits will barrel over you and not care a whit if it means they make an 
earlier train or make the transfer to their next train or bus. (I'm not a 
Man In A Suit, but I've occasionally been guilty of this as well, though I 
try not to be.)

>In England, especially London, I found that people just barrel down
>the road bumping into people and saying "sorry," very fast, every
>few seconds.

Most of the time here, "sorry" seems to be a word used mostly to convey 
insincere condolences, "excuse me" is occasionally used in conjunction with 
(non-verbal) body noises, and "pardon" is something you expect the governor 
to grant a lawbreaking crony.

>You're supposed to weave in and out of people's way, and to avoid bumping
>other people at all costs even if you have to step off the sidewalk and 
>onto the street.

I see the weaving and such as being more closely related to trying to get 
from Point A to Point B in the least possible time without running. The 
street is an extension of the sidewalk if the people on the sidewalk are 
going to slowly for you. The cars aren't moving that fast, anyway!

>On the other hand, I found people in England VERY scrupulous about going up
>and down public stairs on the correct sides. In the US you just walk up and
>down any old way you like -- of course, as long as you don't bump into
>anyone! I found sticking to the "up" side and the "down" side was much more
>efficient.

For a while, the escalators going down to the PATH platform at the World 
Trade Center had plaques posted that told you to stand on the right, and 
walk on the left. Not easily done when the person in front of you has 
enough packages sticking out to block the entire stair, or if you're wide 
enough to require most of the stair's width to either stand OR pass... And 
heavens forbid you should be in the way of one of these businessmen who 
absolutely MUST get onto the train that's just about to pull out of the 
station (and so are taking the stairs, WITH briefcase and laptop bag, at a 
flat run)...

On 29 Nov 2002 07:08:42 -0000, Jane Williams wrote:

>Exactly. She can see the box, she must know it's causing you
>inconvenience: why not put brain in gear?

Because her own need to get information is, on her personal utility curve, 
greater than your need to unload the case of product at its required 
destination.

>This is possible: but surely the sight of someone in a hurry is easy to
>recognise?

Not when they're coming from behind you.

>And to get out of the way of?

Not if the streets are crowded, if you have a lot of packages, if the 
hurrying person is carrying a lot of stuff, or if you have problems 
locomoting at breakneck speed. I've been on both sides of the coin, here, 
usually during rush hour in downtown NYC (Wall Street area)...

> > and groups of people getting off
> > the escalator and stopping while they try to decide where to go next
> > don't realize that there are people behind them being delivered
> > inexorably into them,

One of my pet peeves!

>They don't? Are they unbelievably stupid, or what? Is
>there something difficult about looking at what's
>going on around you and reacting to it?

Remember, the other people are coming from BEHIND them, and people don't 
usually have eyes in the backs of their heads. OTOH, I've always been 
taught to get CLEAR of the escalator drop-off area before stopping and 
trying to gain my bearings. Maybe some (very few) of these folk come from 
areas where the escalators are never crowded????


On 30 Nov 2002 20:22:29 -0500, Anne F. Murphy wrote:

>All I see are rude T-shirts about the way we allegedly
>speak, for sale in tourist areas...  I've never seen anyone local
>wearing one! *G*

I seem to have missed these... and I work not far from South Street Seaport.

>Seriously, last year was so odd... a lot of people stayed away, so  it's
>nice to see so many visitors have come this year. We're getting back to
>normal. As I said, we throw a great party!

Definitely last year was odd. (I spent four months working in what was, 
effectively, a war zone.)

>And I don't think I've ever been asked to take someone's picture

Probably because they're afraid you'd walk off with the camera 
(stereotypical view of New Yorkers)...

>Ob. Costume Content... dressed in black, as I am in these situations...
>*G* "Everyone knows"  we wear a lot of black, and that sterotype is
>true! Darks, some brights, and very few pastels.

Depending on your race and ethnic group, of course. I rarely see 
transplanted Indians in black, and most Afro-Americans I see tend to prefer 
to wear bright colors to blacks.

The one thing that bugs me about The Ubiquitous Black is that it's damned 
difficult to find a winter coat in any color *other than* black, or 
possibly olive or khaki, or *very* occasionally, English Red or Hunter 
Green. These colors are practically invisible at night under sodium vapor 
lighting, and most of the time I'm outdoors in winter... it's dark out. 
*sigh* Otherwise, well, black is flattering, goes with just about any 
color, and goes well with most variations of coloring and complexion :)

>I don't think I know anyone here who owns a pink pantsuit, as mentioned
>in other posts...

I actually have a linen jacket and a linen skirt in a sort of fuschia 
color. When the skirt fit properly (it is now both too large and in need of 
repair), I wore it quite regularly in summertime. I still haven't managed 
to wear the jacket, though... I don't recall having had pink *pants* since 
childhood on Long Island, though...

Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 00:59:40 -0500
Status: RO

At 21:49:12 11/26/2002 -0800, Chris Laning wrote:

>I actually seem to have a historical "double," which has been rather
>amusing at times, and I know at least one other person who does too.
>(He's a dead ringer for the Elizabethan portrait of Sir Henry Unton.)

How interesting! One of my friends, ten years ago, could have been a double 
for Rogier van der Weyden's "Portrait of a Lady" 
<http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/w/weyden/rogier/16portra/05lady.jpg>.

>Mine came to light when someone who knows me happened to open a copy
>of Diana Scarisbrick's _Ancestral Jewels_ to the portrait of Duchess
>Elizabeth, wife of the ninth Duke of Bedford, who was one of Queen
>Victoria's bridesmaids (p.127, if anyone has the book). I'm not sure
>I can see that much of a resemblance myself

My friend said the same thing when we showed her the portrait at last 
year's winter holiday party...

>About 2/3 of the time, their first thought is, "Who is this, your
>great-grandmother or something?" (No, no relation as far as
>I know.) Apparently it's quite striking.

Also with my friend and all who knew her five to ten years ago and see that 
portrait, there's about a 2/3 recognition rate. I'm wondering if this is 
the norm for "historical doubles"...


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 01:05:25 -0500
Status: RO

On 28 Nov 2002 09:53:45 -0800, Margo Anderson wrote:

>At 11:33 AM 11/28/2002 -0600, Genie wrote:
> >Personal idiosyncrasy as I'm a lefty; fork in left hand, knife in right,
> >never bother with switching hands that way.
>
>Me too!  Like many left handed children...

Hmm... Wonder what it is about us lefties. I seem to be involved in a 
number of groups in which we are a larger minority than in the general US 
population (don't know about the global population)...

I, too, am a "fork in left, knife in right" eater, and (generally speaking) 
only set down a cutlery implement to grab a glass or cup to drink from, to 
pass or receive a bowl/platter/pitcher/other food container, or (in the 
"boarding-house-reach" model) reach for a communal food container to serve 
myself (whatever). OTOH, any spreading of jams, butters, etc., and any 
other cutting I do (food-related or not) I do with the knife in my left hand.

>I was grown before I realized that which hand you eat with might be
>dictated by something other than dominance.

The first I encountered the concept of "fork in the right hand" was, IIRC, 
in the Cadette Girl Scout Handbook, under the Challenge of Social 
Responsibility. I don't remember if it was there or elsewhere that I 
learned the "rules" that you are supposed to speak with both the person on 
your left and the person on your right during the course of the meal, that 
you are generally seated *across* the table from your spouse, and that the 
arrangement is man-woman-man-woman-man-woman-etc. around the table...

>I'm still puzzled by the references to eating with the fork tines down,
>though.  I can see it with foods that you stab, like peices of meat, but
>what about loose litle bits like peas?  How do you do it?

Stab as many peas as you can on the tines, eat them, and go back at it 
again? Or perhaps we are talking about the position of the tines as the 
food enters your mouth?


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Barbie costume pattern magazine
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 01:12:11 -0500
Status: RO

On 28 Nov 2002 17:54:32 +0000 (GMT), Nicole Kipar wrote:

>I just dug it out of my pattern-treasure-trove and it's unfortunately from 
>1996...

>...it is simply called 'Barbie' and is a Burda Special magazine, and is
>all in German. I don't know if they still make Burda specials for Barbie, 
>and I
>can't find out unless I nip into a magazine shop over Christmas in germany.

I don't recall seeing any such Burda Special in the US in the past ten 
years or so. FWIW, the monthly and (most of the) special Burda magazines 
are available worldwide in a number of languages (I've routinely seen 
German, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian, and English language editions on 
the magazine racks at Borders). Check GLP (German Language Publications) 
<http://www.glpnews.com/en/index.html> for more information.

BTW, can anyone tell me whatever happened to Neue Mode pattern magazine?


Brenda Faith Bell       webwarren@earthlink.net
Consultant, The Web Warren      http://www.webwarren.com/

arachne@webwarren.com


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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 01:13:57 -0500
Status: RO

On 29 Nov 2002 15:26:24 -0500, Diane S. wrote:

>...the fanciest dinner I ever went to was an Industrial Arts Teacher's
>convention with my husband.  They had a sit-down luncheon.  There they sat,
>500 men and me, and they were all watching me to see when to start and how
>to eat it.  Talk about being in the hot seat!!  Whew!
>     But that was all a long time ago.

Things have not changed all that much in that respect. Almost invariably 
when Frank and I are at one of the more formal (read: set with more than 
one fork and more than one spoon) dinners at one of our computer user group 
conferences, the men at the table (and sometimes the under-50 women) all 
look to me to figure out which bread plate, coffee cup, or water goblet is 
theirs, and what utensil to use with what dish... and I'm nowhere nearly as 
well-versed on this as Diane is! Maybe it's because I'm more confident than 
they in what goes where and when?????


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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From: "Janet Davis" <castle@erie.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] This year's calendars
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 01:57:03 -0500
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I've carried 2 calendars this year (besides the Medieval Year one).  One is
a desk calendar called "Forgotten English 2003" that has a different word,
no longer in common use, for each day.  I also have 1 copy left of
"Illuminations 2003: A Jewish Calendar", which started in September and goes
through August.  The pictures are interesting illuminations from a 15th
century Hebrew manuscript, but unfortunately there are only a couple that
show people wearing clothes.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http:/www.medievalbookstore.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: NZ and LotR PreRaphaelites
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 20:52:38 +1300
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
> > > Actually, just for the records, I don't _DO_ copies of things from
films,
> > > that's just not creative in my books.
> > As opposed to copying from history;)
> Nope, there's a big difference. Even my blue dress is not a 'copy', it is
> clearly inspired by, but not a copy.

Oh no, but it's all part of the continuum. And I was really meaning copying
direct from a pattern say and getting everything exactly the same.
Continuum see:) And at the extreme end of recreation is what was made for
the World of Wearable Arts recently held here in NZ. Where it's all about
doing new things with covering the body.
http://www.wearableart.co.nz/

We got to see the highlights last night. Fantastic entries this year. I
loved the supreme winner: Persephone's Descent. All articulated armour. The
most costumey bit of wearable art I've seen in the contest. Usually it's
quite abstract.

BTW, just got a chance to see the flaming orange corset, most gorgeous and
the colour.. I *love* it:)

> > Have you got the book Pre Raphaelite Women by Jan Marsh ( I think)?
> > Wonderful, and split into the archetypes of femininity as seen by
artists of
> > the time: Doves and Mothers, Pale ladies of Deatha.... Bohemian
Stunners....
> No, don't have it, butthanks ever so much, I'll keep an eye out for it.

It should still be available. I got mine back in 1994 I think, but I saw a
spft cover rece

> Nicole - about to fix the new ceiling lamp: a 'copy' of those Flemish 17th
> century brass ones. *G*

heheheh;)

Oooh, I wore my cossie today, should get some piccies developed tomorrow.
Got a photo taken with the actor who plays Gamling in TTT.

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] This year's calendars
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 11:38:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Janet Davis <castle@erie.net> wrote: > 
> I've carried 2 calendars this year (besides the Medieval Year one).  One is
> a desk calendar called "Forgotten English 2003" that has a different word,
> no longer in common use, for each day. 

If I am not mistaken that is the calendar (desk calendar) that Past Times
carries every year, bought one as a gift one year, quite nifty. Was about 6/7
pounds or so.

I can't make up my mind what calendar to buy this year, haven't found anything
costumey or extra nice. in the shops :-( I s'pose I have to get a LOTR calendar
maybe, or if I'm lucky I'll find one with nekkid artsy b/w photos of gorgeous
model men. *G* no costumes, but hey, some bodies just don't need any.

Nicole - getting closer to finishing that room every day so that she can
finally get back to sewing.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 14:14:15 +0100
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--------------060403060209060108070006
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Hi,

I bought my first Barbie just a few years ago (I am 26).
And I really hope that one day I will have a girl.
I like making those little costumes. Here you can see a 16th century 
dress I made.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/16thBarbie.html
My next project wil be a Italian renaissance faerie.

Greetings,
        Deredere

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Thursday 28 November 2002 02:54 am, N Kipar wrote:
>  
>
>> --- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote: > On Tuesday 26
>>
>>November 2002 05:45 pm, seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
>>    
>>
>>>>My Barbie had costumes made by me, and went on jungle adventures.....I
>>>>was such an odd child.
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>My Barbie dolls had some costumes made by me, some of which were
>>>historical and others which were not.
>>>
>>>I see a pattern developing here....
>>>      
>>>
>>Ohhh yes! Say, who else had barbie dolls and made costumes for them? BTW, I
>>am praying that my godchild will be a girl, because I have that fantastic
>>Burda magazine chockerfull with historic costumes for Barbie dolls and Ken
>>men, you should see the medievalesque costumes! (how the middle ages SHOULD
>>have been and are in fairy tales). Phuleeeeze!! A girl, a girl, a girl!!!
>>    
>>
>
>Good luck.  :-)
>
>
>  
>
>>Nicole - who made a posh outfit for her Barbie for the occasion of Lady
>>Di's and Prince Charles' wedding in 1981 *blech* :-)
>>    
>>
>
>I was long past the Barbie doll age by the time of that wedding.  Sigh.  
>
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
>"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
> --Flannery O'Connor
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>  
>


--------------060403060209060108070006
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
  <title></title>
</head>
<body>
Hi,<br>
<br>
I bought my first Barbie just a few years ago (I am 26).<br>
And I really hope that one day I will have a girl.<br>
I like making those little costumes. Here you can see a 16th century dress
I made.<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/16thBarbie.html">http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/16thBarbie.html</a><br>
My next project wil be a Italian renaissance faerie.<br>
<br>
Greetings,<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere<br>
<br>
Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid200211281234.24597.cathy@thyrsus.com">
  <pre wrap="">On Thursday 28 November 2002 02:54 am, N Kipar wrote:
  </pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap=""> --- Catherine Olanich Raymond <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:cathy@thyrsus.com">&lt;cathy@thyrsus.com&gt;</a> wrote: &gt; On Tuesday 26

November 2002 05:45 pm, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:seamstrix@juno.com">seamstrix@juno.com</a> wrote:
    </pre>
    <blockquote type="cite">
      <blockquote type="cite">
        <pre wrap="">My Barbie had costumes made by me, and went on jungle adventures.....I
was such an odd child.
        </pre>
      </blockquote>
      <pre wrap="">My Barbie dolls had some costumes made by me, some of which were
historical and others which were not.

I see a pattern developing here....
      </pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap="">Ohhh yes! Say, who else had barbie dolls and made costumes for them? BTW, I
am praying that my godchild will be a girl, because I have that fantastic
Burda magazine chockerfull with historic costumes for Barbie dolls and Ken
men, you should see the medievalesque costumes! (how the middle ages SHOULD
have been and are in fairy tales). Phuleeeeze!! A girl, a girl, a girl!!!
    </pre>
  </blockquote>
  <pre wrap=""><!---->
Good luck.  :-)


  </pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">Nicole - who made a posh outfit for her Barbie for the occasion of Lady
Di's and Prince Charles' wedding in 1981 *blech* :-)
    </pre>
  </blockquote>
  <pre wrap=""><!---->
I was long past the Barbie doll age by the time of that wedding.  Sigh.  

Cathy Raymond <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:cathy@thyrsus.com">&lt;cathy@thyrsus.com&gt;</a>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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  </pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
</html>

--------------060403060209060108070006--


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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 14:20:40 +0100
Status: RO

Oh CUUUUUTE!!!!!

Cass :)))

> I bought my first Barbie just a few years ago (I am 26).
> And I really hope that one day I will have a girl.
> I like making those little costumes. Here you can see a 16th century
> dress I made.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/16thBarbie.html
> My next project wil be a Italian renaissance faerie.
> 
> Greetings,
>       Deredere

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Subject: Black in Indian Culture/Re: [h-cost] Re: "sorry" vs. "excuse me";  behavior and cultures
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 14:47:36 +0000
Status: RO


> Depending on your race and ethnic group, of course. I rarely see 
> transplanted Indians in black,

Black has a very negative connotation in Indian Culture as in 
unauspicious and transplanted Indian's seldom wear it outside of a 
religious context.Finding a sari that is entirely black is rare and hard 
to locate,although you will sometimes find examples that are brightened 
up with floral motifs or embroidery.In fact a very dark and intense 
indigo is preferred for Dewaali night the only time that 'black' appears 
to be an acceptable colour,so dark that it reads as black.
'Modern' Indians raised outside of India don't seem to have any 
prejudices about wearing black in their day to day contemporary clothing.

Marcus.





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  1 09:01:41 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Deredere's Barbie dolls costumes
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 14:01:34 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Wow!! I love it, oh I love it, I want a girl god-child, phuleeeeze!! Or I will
just have to make costrumes for action man, demmit. *G* Maybe I won't even tell
the little worm to be how my Barbies used to truss them up. hehehehehe...
Adventure-Barbies-R-Us.

It is SO cute, Deredere.

Nicole
 
--- Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote: > Hi,
> 
> I bought my first Barbie just a few years ago (I am 26).
> And I really hope that one day I will have a girl.
> I like making those little costumes. Here you can see a 16th century 
> dress I made.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/16thBarbie.html
> My next project wil be a Italian renaissance faerie.
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> 
> >On Thursday 28 November 2002 02:54 am, N Kipar wrote:
> >  
> >
> >> --- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote: > On Tuesday 26
> >>
> >>November 2002 05:45 pm, seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> >>    
> >>
> >>>>My Barbie had costumes made by me, and went on jungle adventures.....I
> >>>>was such an odd child.
> >>>>        
> >>>>
> >>>My Barbie dolls had some costumes made by me, some of which were
> >>>historical and others which were not.
> >>>
> >>>I see a pattern developing here....
> >>>      
> >>>
> >>Ohhh yes! Say, who else had barbie dolls and made costumes for them? BTW, I
> >>am praying that my godchild will be a girl, because I have that fantastic
> >>Burda magazine chockerfull with historic costumes for Barbie dolls and Ken
> >>men, you should see the medievalesque costumes! (how the middle ages SHOULD
> >>have been and are in fairy tales). Phuleeeeze!! A girl, a girl, a girl!!!
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >Good luck.  :-)
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> >>Nicole - who made a posh outfit for her Barbie for the occasion of Lady
> >>Di's and Prince Charles' wedding in 1981 *blech* :-)
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >I was long past the Barbie doll age by the time of that wedding.  Sigh.  
> >
> >Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> >
> >"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
> > --Flannery O'Connor
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >  
> >
> 
>  

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Regency corsets?
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 09:14:09 -0600
Status: RO

I am way behind in my list reading.. but this caught my eye.

I made a corded corset for the regency period not too long ago for a Museum director.
It did make a difference in the end appearance of her gown. It provided uplift for her 
breasts, and smoothed out the shape of her torso.

While there might not be a huge amount of information regarding corsetry of this time 
period, corsets were worn.  Some might have been as simple as a linen form with not much 
re-inforcement in them, but they were still considered stays.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] This year's calendars
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 10:03:41 -0600 (CST)
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On Sun, 1 Dec 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:

> maybe, or if I'm lucky I'll find one with nekkid artsy b/w photos of gorgeous
> model men. *G* no costumes, but hey, some bodies just don't need any.

Consider the Pilobolus calendar, of the ballet troupe of that name. The
photos are breathtaking. (The performances are ... wow.)

Very little costume content here, except some very odd leotards and quite
a few dance g-strings.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Color in art (was Tippets)
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 10:56:39 -0600 (CST)
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Finally catching up after a heavily booked holiday weekend ...

On Fri, 29 Nov 2002, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

<regarding the lady in tippets on the April page of the Tres Riches
Heures>

> By the way, you said that lady's overgown is actually ultramarine, not
> black as I had perceived.  I've seen the print in several editions,
> (including a good quality print from the British Museum, which
> currently hangs on my office wall) and it's black in all of them, so
> far as I can tell.

Actually, no, I said she is in deep blue -- e.g. midnight or navy or
whatever the preferred term :-) -- with an ultramarine-blue underdress.
The deep blue does appear as black in several of the prints I have on
hand, but it's navy in others, whereas there are other examples in the
manuscript of people in black gowns that don't shift to navy in the same
editions as the navy April lady, so I figure navy is the correct reading.
But that's a rare color, isn't it? I may have to check up on this.

> Now, it's also possible that the original is, in fact, ultramarine.  
> It also seems, to me, that it would be possible that even if the
> original was ultramarine that ultramarine might not have been the
> original color.  I tend to be skeptical about whether the current
> color of a fabric, or a piece of art, is highly indicative of the
> color that the dyer/artist originally intended after 400 or so
> years....

Not an issue to worry about in this case since we're not actually trying
to reconcile ultramarine vs. black, which would be a pretty monumental
shift, but a good issue to consider overall in viewing manuscripts.
Different media pose different color problems for different reasons.
Paintings tend to have more sun and air damage compared with manuscripts.
Both, however, tend to use certain pigments that degrade on their own.
Greens are notoriously fugitive, turning even to yellor or brown or dull
reds in some cases. Silver metal tarnishes to black. And so on.  I keep a
few books on hand for reference on this, including Daniel Thompson's
"Materials and Techniques of Medieval Painting," W.G. Constable's "The
Painter's Workshop," and A.P. Laurie's "The Painter's Methods and
Materials." These are all inexpensive Dover reprints of older books that
look outdated, but as far as I know, the data is good, and perhaps
reflects a time when this subject was of more interest.

For costume study, there's the added issue of paints as accurate
representations of dyes -- which they often are not. Ultramarine blue is
the usual example, as it's made into a paint from ground lapis lazuli.
This was a highly valued color in medieval paintings. (IIRC, it's in
Baxendall's "Painting and Experience in Fifteenth Century Italy" where you
can find some cites to painter's contracts that specify the amount of
lapis blue to be supplied by the patron and used in the painting, as part
of the terms.) Lapis cannot be made into a dye, and there is no equivalent
medieval dye for lapis color. Woad (chemically the same as indigo) was the
blue dye source at this time. Woad/indigo can provide some strong and
bright blues, particuarly on silk, but does not fall in the same color
range as lapis. The tone difference is one I first noticed as a teenager,
when I tried to buy blue shirts to match my blue jeans, but kept coming up
with cobalt blues that didn't work with the indigo blue of the jeans when
I actually put them next to each other. There are some period references
-- Drea has some citations -- to painting on fabric with lapis, but that
seems to be reserved for display materials (altarcloths and furnishings
and banners and such, and maybe stage costume), not used for "real"
clothing.

What this means is that all those ultramarine blues that show up on page
after page of the Tres Riches Heures and other mss, usually on the most
important figures (such as royalty and saints), do not reflect the blues
worn at the court -- they're a sign of the Duke's wealth in commissioning
these paintings in this book. So we need to adjust our eyes, and minds, to
compensate for the color change as we develop our mental picture of the
medieval court. 

For that matter, I believe the wealthy wore relatively little blue in
their fine garments, as blue was the cheapest available dye. By contrast,
black was expensive and highly valued. It appears frequently in
inventories from the 15th century. But it's used comparatively rarely in
manuscripts of the same period, because it provides a visual problem on
the page. Notice that when the Limbourgs do put someone in black, they
often partially hide him or her behind other people or things, or drape
other fabrics over the black garments, to reduce the impact of the dead
space in the painting. The woman riding sidesaddle in August is an example
of the artist's virtuosity in managing to provide highlights and shading
to depict drapery -- this is nearly impossible on a black surface, and in
this case the artist greyed the base color surface to allow for deeper
black shades as well as lighter grey highlights. (Hmm, I'm now wondering
if the navy I see in the April lady is actually a different, and less
successful, attempt to introduce depth in a black surface. I'll have to
look this up and see how she's described by the scholars who have worked
directly with the manuscript.)

Tapestries give us a much better color sense of available tones, since
they're made from dyed materials, not painted. But then you have the
issues of color fading and mutation, particularly with sun and air. And
the list goes on ... can you tell this is another lecture tape I'm running
here? I'll stop now.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 09:52:59 -0700
Status: RO

I actually haven't gone calendar-shopping this year, yet.  I'll get one
for home, and one or two for the office.  For office ones, I'm partial
to cartoons--Far Side, Dilbert, etc.
Re: beefcake calendars....Hey, Nicole, at least here in the US, those
*are* referred to as "birthday suits," so that's kinda-sorta costume
related <weg>.
--sue, who has a two-foot-high pile of papers and old bills on the table
she needs to clear before she can get back to sewing....ick....sometimes
I just purely *hate* house-cleaning!

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Janet Davis <castle@erie.net> wrote: >
> > I've carried 2 calendars this year (besides the Medieval Year one).  One is
> > a desk calendar called "Forgotten English 2003" that has a different word,
> > no longer in common use, for each day.
> 
> If I am not mistaken that is the calendar (desk calendar) that Past Times
> carries every year, bought one as a gift one year, quite nifty. Was about 6/7
> pounds or so.
> 
> I can't make up my mind what calendar to buy this year, haven't found anything
> costumey or extra nice. in the shops :-( I s'pose I have to get a LOTR calendar
> maybe, or if I'm lucky I'll find one with nekkid artsy b/w photos of gorgeous
> model men. *G* no costumes, but hey, some bodies just don't need any.
> 
> Nicole - getting closer to finishing that room every day so that she can
> finally get back to sewing.
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 09:57:34 -0700
Status: RO

Ahhh, Brenda....<g>
Some of us come from places where there are NO escalators, crowded or
not! I think there was an escalator in a department store here, once, a
while ago, but I don't know if it's still there.  It was considered
quite the novelty--I don't actually recall ever seeing one anywhere else
in the state!
--Sue in Montana

Brenda Bell wrote:
> 

> >They don't? Are they unbelievably stupid, or what? Is
> >there something difficult about looking at what's
> >going on around you and reacting to it?
> 
> Remember, the other people are coming from BEHIND them, and people don't
> usually have eyes in the backs of their heads. OTOH, I've always been
> taught to get CLEAR of the escalator drop-off area before stopping and
> trying to gain my bearings. Maybe some (very few) of these folk come from
> areas where the escalators are never crowded????
>
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 17:21:07 -0000
Status: RO

>Someone asked about Dorothy Hartley's books on this list a while back. I'm
pretty sure my notions about the mediaeval origins of modern table manners
came from her "Food in England", but that was published 40-50 years ago, so
theories may have changed since then...

I like her books but she tends to assume anything 'country' originates in
medieval time, whilst some is true eg agricultural tools are similar, it can
be a bit simplistic any way I'll look into Food in England I have a copy

Mel

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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 09:59:46 -0800
Status: RO

At 08:23 PM 11/29/2002 -0800, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

  Do you know the Euro -> dollar exchange rate? 

This is a really handy currency converter:  http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 18:14:58 -0000
Status: RO

>Gender issues could, however, come into
play in some cases because of the bias toward "the heir" and to the
future heavy workers. While this bias isn't as strong as in some
cultures, it was probably sometimes an issue.

When you say whilst the bias isn't as strong as in some other cultures
what/where are you comparing other cultures to ? The US ? I was talking
about past cultures and archaeological evidence

>The breastfed babies with dental problems are the ones who use a
breast for a pacifier, not "on demand."

That wasn't clear to me from your original post which is why I asked for
clarification. I've not heard of this phenomena in the UK (doesn't mean it
dosen't happen however)

 >However, the amount of effort the baby
expended for "demand" was probably higher.

Not completly convinced, my experiance is that you can tell what crys are
what, by kids rarely cried because I demand fed & checked regularly
(constantly sounds too manic, but pretty constantly in a way I would if
checking instrumentation in a plane for instance without any concious check
as such)

I think a lot of breast feeding & child care problems come from the lack on
family with kids contact. You get the same in isolated animal mums too, my
horses do much better if there is a experiance mum with a newbie

>Some let the baby continuously hold the breast in the mouth
without any time away from the breast.

Ok that seems like hard work :) No that isn't on demand & no animals don't
do that !

> had other work right where the modern
snuglie would be.)

Snuglie ?

>Also, too few of our moms have good support systems for encouraging
breastfeeding.

Agreed

>I have a *very* high rate of
successfully breastfed babies (including those with working mothers)
who often breastfeed well past a year of age.

Is this unusual in the US (I presume you are US ?) It is here
> >They can't let the baby cry at night or they upset the neighbors. In
> medieval times this would have been considered a "normal" noise and
> not one to shush at all costs.
>
> I'd love to see the evidence for this. Have you read the studies on
> cot death & babies in cultures who arn't forced to sleep alone & cry ?
> This suggestion, that crying is normal noise,  is not consistant with
> primate behaviour IMHO, and I've not seen anything supporting such as
> view in medieval litrature, please have you any refs ?.

I meant refs suggesting babies were left to cry rather than on cot death.

>Also, the important literature about this has only been coming out
for the past 10-15 years at most. A lot of it started with the "Back
to the Back" campaign for prevention of cot death. I've been in
pediatrics for more than 20 years and a *lot* has changed in that
time.

I've been having babies over 16 years & yes I've noticed :) What you should
eat what you shouldn't.  put them on their front, no back, ok side !!Given
it changes with the wind I'm afraid I tend to feel pretty cynical that
anyone knows what they are on about.

>We *never* used to see breastfed "bottlemouth" in our
breastfeeding moms until more recently when there was a switch from
"demand" feed to "constant" feed in many of the moms.

Just from a sanity point of view constant does not seem to be a good idea :)

Mel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fur and dagging
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 12:29:14 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 29 Nov 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> I'd want to look at a survey of the earliest examples of dagging
> before coming to any certain conclusions, but my impression has been
> that _lined_ dags (whether appearing to be fabric-lined or fur-lined)  
> are relatively rare, and that the default is done in plain unlined
> cloth. ...

Everything Heather said in her post makes sense to me. I think someone
would have to do a systematic comparison of representations of dags in art
as well as in artifacts (with an eye to whether linings may have
disintegrated) before getting much of an idea as to what came first. I
personally would be interested in seeing the sequence of shapes of dags as
well.

> My initial hypothesis (to be tested by further research) 
> would be that dagging arose in the context of the fashion for heavily 
> fulled woolen fabrics, where you can cut a decorative (and even very 
> elaborate) edge without the need to finish the raw edges.

One interesting visual example of this, though fairly late after dags
first start appearing in the artwork, is the famous Arnolfini wedding
portrait. Giovanna's bag sleeve has an elaborate mass of dags hanging from
the lower edge. They're hard to work out when you look at a reproduction,
but in the original it's clear it's a very long strip of fabric (almost
certainly wool) cut into a pattern of rows of connected Maltese-style and
then the strip accordion-folded into a stack, with one side of the stack
of folds attached to the sleeve and the other hanging down. There's no
shortage of fur lining in the scene, as the main body of the dress is
fur-lined and the underdress has a fur edge showing at the bottom. But the
dags are unlined; they seem to be layered into two layers, but with
separate edges, which may mean two strips folded against each other as
part of the accordion-folding. There's a gold dotty finish to the edges,
which may mean edges are stitched around with gold thread. An alternative
reading (I forget where I read this) is that the green wool is actually a
multilayer sandwich of cloth, green layers on the outside and a gold layer
on the inside, and that the green edges are pinked to show the gold. I
don't know if I can quite see how that would work, particularly as the
gold seems to appear on the protruding points of the pinking, not in the
"pits" of the pinking.

But the overall point here is that there's no fur on the dags themselves.
On the other hand, I've seen plenty of examples -- the Tres Riches Heures
is full of them, as we were talking about earlier -- of dagged 
edges with fur lining. So by the early 1400s, at least, both are being
done at about the same class level.

> My logical arguments against the "irregular fur edge" hypothesis would
> be that furriers obviously had _no_ compunction against cutting and
> piecing furs to create "yardage"; and from a practical standpoint,
> smoothing off the edge of the fur lining would be far less work than
> cutting the outer fabric to match and finishing the much more
> elaborate edge.  I can see fur-lined dags arising in the context of an
> existing concept more easily than I can see them as the origin of the
> concept.

I can see arguments either way, particularly if the "yardage" comes from
the furrier to the clothier with the ragged-edges intact, and there's also
no compunction against labor-intensive decoration as a sign of wealth,
regardless of practicality. But as you say, that may have developed after
the idea of dagged edgings was already established, independent of the
shapes of pelts. 

One key clue other than shape of dags might be whether dags originated
with people of such wealth that they were already lining everything with
fur, and this was one more step in adding luxury, or if dags appear
initially on clothing of a class/wealth level that does not suggest
universal fur lining, but at least enough wealth to cover the cost of
decoration and the implication that "I'm rich enough to cut up this
fabric." If it appeared on the wealthy fur-wearers first, the unfurred
version could have been a lesser-monied copy.

Chickens, eggs, all that.

--Robin

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Color in art (was Tippets)
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 14:19:55 -0500
Status: RO

On Sunday 01 December 2002 11:56 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> Finally catching up after a heavily booked holiday weekend ...
>
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2002, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>
> <regarding the lady in tippets on the April page of the Tres Riches
> Heures>
>
> > By the way, you said that lady's overgown is actually ultramarine, not
> > black as I had perceived.  I've seen the print in several editions,
> > (including a good quality print from the British Museum, which
> > currently hangs on my office wall) and it's black in all of them, so
> > far as I can tell.

> The deep blue does appear as black in several of the prints I have on
> hand, but it's navy in others, whereas there are other examples in the
> manuscript of people in black gowns that don't shift to navy in the same
> editions as the navy April lady, so I figure navy is the correct reading.
>
> Actually, no, I said she is in deep blue -- e.g. midnight or navy or
> whatever the preferred term :-) -- with an ultramarine-blue underdress.

I may have screwed up my color terminology, but I understood you the first 
time; that is what I meant.  :-)  It did not occur to me that you were 
referring to the underdress a ultramarine.  Sorry for the confusion.


> But that's a rare color, isn't it? I may have to check up on this.

To the best of my knowledge, yes, it's rare.  I'm sure it wasn't 
unattainable--indigo and its cousins can achieve an amazing variety of blues 
from deep to light--but I can't recall any other evidence that navy was used 
for women's gowns that early...



> > Now, it's also possible that the original is, in fact, ultramarine.
> > It also seems, to me, that it would be possible that even if the
> > original was ultramarine that ultramarine might not have been the
> > original color.  I tend to be skeptical about whether the current
> > color of a fabric, or a piece of art, is highly indicative of the
> > color that the dyer/artist originally intended after 400 or so
> > years....
>
> Not an issue to worry about in this case since we're not actually trying
> to reconcile ultramarine vs. black, which would be a pretty monumental
> shift, but a good issue to consider overall in viewing manuscripts.
> Different media pose different color problems for different reasons.
> Paintings tend to have more sun and air damage compared with manuscripts.

Naturally. 

> Both, however, tend to use certain pigments that degrade on their own.
> Greens are notoriously fugitive, turning even to yellor or brown or dull
> reds in some cases. Silver metal tarnishes to black. And so on.  I keep a
> few books on hand for reference on this, including Daniel Thompson's
> "Materials and Techniques of Medieval Painting," W.G. Constable's "The
> Painter's Workshop," and A.P. Laurie's "The Painter's Methods and
> Materials." These are all inexpensive Dover reprints of older books that
> look outdated, but as far as I know, the data is good, and perhaps
> reflects a time when this subject was of more interest.

I'll bear that in mind and see if I can track them down, thanks.


> For costume study, there's the added issue of paints as accurate
> representations of dyes -- which they often are not. Ultramarine blue is
> the usual example, as it's made into a paint from ground lapis lazuli.
> This was a highly valued color in medieval paintings. (IIRC, it's in
> Baxendall's "Painting and Experience in Fifteenth Century Italy" where you
> can find some cites to painter's contracts that specify the amount of
> lapis blue to be supplied by the patron and used in the painting, as part
> of the terms.) Lapis cannot be made into a dye, and there is no equivalent
> medieval dye for lapis color. Woad (chemically the same as indigo) was the
> blue dye source at this time. Woad/indigo can provide some strong and
> bright blues, particuarly on silk, but does not fall in the same color
> range as lapis. The tone difference is one I first noticed as a teenager,
> when I tried to buy blue shirts to match my blue jeans, but kept coming up
> with cobalt blues that didn't work with the indigo blue of the jeans when
> I actually put them next to each other. There are some period references
> -- Drea has some citations -- to painting on fabric with lapis, but that
> seems to be reserved for display materials (altarcloths and furnishings
> and banners and such, and maybe stage costume), not used for "real"
> clothing.

Okay.  Thanks.


> What this means is that all those ultramarine blues that show up on page
> after page of the Tres Riches Heures and other mss, usually on the most
> important figures (such as royalty and saints), do not reflect the blues
> worn at the court -- they're a sign of the Duke's wealth in commissioning
> these paintings in this book. 

Pity.  It's a beautiful color.  Oh well, if we each had a dollar for every 
drean that's been shot down by reality.  :-)


>So we need to adjust our eyes, and minds, to
> compensate for the color change as we develop our mental picture of the
> medieval court.
>
> For that matter, I believe the wealthy wore relatively little blue in
> their fine garments, as blue was the cheapest available dye. 

Was that already the case in the 15th century?  It certainly was in the 
16th--to the point that it was associated with servants and charity cases.  
(One reason blue Elizabethan gowns drive me crazy....)


>By contrast,
> black was expensive and highly valued. It appears frequently in
> inventories from the 15th century. 

Good to know that the inventories confirm the art evidence.  Anne Hollander, 
an art historian, made the point in one of her books that the 15th century is 
about the first time black shows up as a fashion color, and not as mourning.


>But it's used comparatively rarely in
> manuscripts of the same period, because it provides a visual problem on
> the page. Notice that when the Limbourgs do put someone in black, they
> often partially hide him or her behind other people or things, or drape
> other fabrics over the black garments, to reduce the impact of the dead
> space in the painting. The woman riding sidesaddle in August is an example
> of the artist's virtuosity in managing to provide highlights and shading
> to depict drapery -- this is nearly impossible on a black surface, and in
> this case the artist greyed the base color surface to allow for deeper
> black shades as well as lighter grey highlights. 

It is a masterful job  

>(Hmm, I'm now wondering
> if the navy I see in the April lady is actually a different, and less
> successful, attempt to introduce depth in a black surface. I'll have to
> look this up and see how she's described by the scholars who have worked
> directly with the manuscript.)

> Tapestries give us a much better color sense of available tones, since
> they're made from dyed materials, not painted. But then you have the
> issues of color fading and mutation, particularly with sun and air.

Very much so.  Also the issue of the extent to which the weaving technique 
used to produce the tapistry created a "new" color in it's own right.


 And
> the list goes on ... can you tell this is another lecture tape I'm running
> here? I'll stop now.

Glad I was able to inspire you.  :-)  I've learned a lot from this exchange.  
Thank you.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fur and dagging
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 14:22:54 -0500
Status: RO

On Sunday 01 December 2002 01:29 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
[text cut here]
>
> One interesting visual example of this, though fairly late after dags
> first start appearing in the artwork, is the famous Arnolfini wedding
> portrait. Giovanna's bag sleeve has an elaborate mass of dags hanging from
> the lower edge. They're hard to work out when you look at a reproduction,
> but in the original it's clear it's a very long strip of fabric (almost
> certainly wool) cut into a pattern of rows of connected Maltese-style and
> then the strip accordion-folded into a stack, with one side of the stack
> of folds attached to the sleeve and the other hanging down. There's no
> shortage of fur lining in the scene, as the main body of the dress is
> fur-lined and the underdress has a fur edge showing at the bottom. But the
> dags are unlined; they seem to be layered into two layers, but with
> separate edges, which may mean two strips folded against each other as
> part of the accordion-folding. There's a gold dotty finish to the edges,
> which may mean edges are stitched around with gold thread.

Indeed.  In the Arnolfini portrait, the fur is very obvious, as it is on some 
of the houppelandes shown on gentlemen in the Tres Riches Heures plates.  
Interestingly, the more obvious fur in the Tres Riches Heures are shown as 
brown.  Anyone have an idea what type of fur those might have been?  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 19:13:04 -0000
Status: RO

On 1 Dec 2002 at 11:38, N Kipar wrote:

>  --- Janet Davis <castle@erie.net> wrote: > 
> > I've carried 2 calendars this year (besides the Medieval Year one). 
> > One is a desk calendar called "Forgotten English 2003" that has a
> > different word, no longer in common use, for each day. 
> 
> If I am not mistaken that is the calendar (desk calendar) that Past
> Times carries every year, bought one as a gift one year, quite nifty.
> Was about 6/7 pounds or so.

Now up to 8 pounds, I think: and I'm still probably 
going for one this year. 

It tends to have the obscure saints' days, too.



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Subject: [h-cost] another  e-bay offering
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 11:08:08 -0800
Status: RO

Another interesting e-bay dress.  not my period, but I like it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1901761815

maryann, who has been spending way too much time on e-bay




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting through crowds/politeness
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 19:17:10 +0000
Status: RO

Catelli <catelli@rcn.com> wrote
>I went to NYC last weekend, and was not run over or into by anyone.
>
>My difficult getting-through-crowds is usually moving audio/visual 
>equipment around at a Worldcon
>(Science Fiction).
>
>"Excuse me; pardon me; 'scuse me." repeat as necessary.
>
>But when the crowd just is Not moving out of my way (I have time 
>constraints), using the "backup beep"
>is the single most effective way of getting through.

Why do I think saying, in a very polite mechanical voice "Warning, this 
vehicle is reversing, warning, this vehicle is reversing" doesn't have 
the same effect?

Jean


>
>Sure beats "Coming through!"
>
>Ann in CT
>Got all my wools washed, now to get them dried. . . .
>
>
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 13:52:57 -0600
Status: RO

For that nifty calendar link... sent it on to my mother-in-law... yay.. gonna get a gift 
that I can use this year from her... :D
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 19:58:58 +0000
Status: RO

That's becasue Austin is considered quite different from the rest of Texas. 
Probably due to the influence of the University of Texas...

As for "snipe hunting": my Great Grandfather was from Indiana. He came to 
Texas and taught here for a time before going home to Indiana to farm (and 
taking his Central Texas bride home with him). Several of his students took 
him "Dillo huntin" once. Armadillos are local to Texas and not to the 
northern states, and they dig burrows which they enter head first. He was 
told to reach in, grab the tail, and pull it out. Armadillos also have a 
scent to their urine that's similar to a skunk's. Needless to say, his hunt 
wasn't what one would consider a success - but the joke was!

Mary/Katerine
(who may have been in Austin, Texas for 10 years, but still considers 
herself an Ohioan)


>Biggest Egos, Biggest Hair,
>Biggest Liars anywhere
>Let's sing another stupid Texas song...
>[...]
>Throw your hats up in the air
>We're obnoxious, we don't care!
>Let's sing another stupid Texas song.
>
>There's a band called the Austin Lounge Lizards who spend a lot of time
>lampooning certain aspects of texas culture.  So even the people who _live_
>there don't always care much for the attitudes we were talking about.  And
>social class definitely plays into it.  My grandmother used to cringe at
>the Ross Perot (new money) types.
>
>[...]
> > one of the other new recruits asked where he was from, and
> > he said Boston.  The other recruit replied, 'We-ll, what suburb of Texas 
>is
> > that?'  Exactly the kind of remark that sets ones teeth on edge.
>
>Of course, he may have been yanking your husband's chain, too.  Texan humor
>still has a very irish flavor.  Despite the fact that many Boston folks
>still consider themselves irish and most Texans (and other southerners)
>wouldn't.  Look up "snipe hunting" for an example of typical texan humor.
>
>Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
>Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
>Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
>"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"


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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 20:14:30 -0000
Status: RO

On 1 Dec 2002 at 19:17, Jean Waddie wrote:

> >But when the crowd just is Not moving out of my way (I have time
> >constraints), using the "backup beep" is the single most effective
> >way of getting through.
> 
> Why do I think saying, in a very polite mechanical voice "Warning,
> this vehicle is reversing, warning, this vehicle is reversing" doesn't
> have the same effect?

If said by a very large lorry, it works :)

Sadly, saying things politely very rarely gets people's 
attention, unless you're obviously capable of 
applying large amounts of force.

You know, you can get cars fitted with proximity 
sensors these days. Usually as parking aids, but now 
as a means of stopping you from getting too close to 
the one ahead (apparently it compares distance, 
your speed, and the amount of water on the road, 
then takes the power off if needed).

Could we fit proximity sensors into clothes? "You are 
about to be run over: MOVE!" in the ear might work? 
Especially if combined with an electric shock?



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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 13:43:30 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, Stevie.
I have a number of friends here who wanted me to tell you that "We hate
her." <g> Because of the Assembly Rooms and all....It sounds absolutely
wonderful, and hope you take (and post) lots of pictures for those of us
who are too far away in time and place to attend!
I think you'll find that the degree of chest-constriction varies widely
over the fashionable years <g>, and sometimes, even when things *may*
have been more restrictive than you can tolerate, you can still achieve
a similar look/style with some simple adaptations.
I have some 10-yd pcs in my wool stash, but they're causing me *great*
pain, because they want to be both fitted gowns AND flemish market
gowns.  Aaaarrrrggggghhhh!!!  If I tried to do both, I'd have to cross
my fingers *and* toes (difficult at best when they're short like mine
are <g>), sacrifice numerous twinkies to the Great Costume Gawd, AND
still skimp on one or both skirts a tidge.
--Sue

Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Sue wrote:
> 
> > Where in Bath is the ball going to be? What are you planning for the
> > rest of your outfit?
> 
> Well, you are more familiar with Bath than I am, but I gather that it
> will be in the Assembly Rooms, and at the moment I am intending a late
> 18th century highwaisted gown in silver grey dupioni, with a shorter
> over dress in gold metallic silk gauze. That way I can get to use some
> of the braid/type decorations in gold and silver plated wire which I
> have been making for what seems like forever. It was intended for an
> Elizabethan, but until I get it together sufficiently to make the
> 'barrel corset' which people have kindly suggested that project is
> somewhat on the backburner. Though I have just bankrupted myself
> buying a Victorian? table cover in cut velvet
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2222&item=92312
> 5757&rd=1
> 
> and another velvet
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2220&item=92101
> 2275&rd=1
> 
> because, dammit, they should look pretty good together. Maybe an
> earlier Renaissance period gown with a high waist?
> 
> Of course, I've been looking at some of the medieval gowns mentioned
> here, because it occurs to me that the degree of support offered by
> those gowns is just as good as modern corsetry, and probably less
> restrictive around the ribcage, what with wonderelastic and so forth.
> Alas, nothing in my wool stash is more than 5 metres or so, and whilst
> I got large amounts of some marvellous cotton velvets in Liberty's
> sale this summer, where I got the James Hare handloomed dupioni,  they
> are not right. And dupioni is really wrong for much before late 18th.
> My name is Stevie and I'm a fabricaholic...
> What's even worse is that I have a 16 year old daughter who actually
> expects me to use some of it making clothes for her! Often at three
> hours notice:-)
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 14:05:56 -0700
Status: RO

Perhaps it had more to do with me being in cities, mostly, and not
exactly near student areas (universities, nightclubs, whatever), with
the exception of going to Trinity in Dublin.
I live in an area where the kind of formality of dress I saw all over
London, for instance, would immediately brand you as a
non-native/city-dweller, or perhaps as an Important Lawyer.  One of
those instant-recognition things, I guess. <g>
--sue

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> 
> Sue wrote:
> > On my recent trip to the UK and Ireland, literally the only time I ever saw a tee >shirt was...on an American.
> 
> That's odd, because they are very commonly worn here.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Color in art (was Tippets)
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:18:54 -0700
Status: RO

In what other ways could the colors in illustrations such as we've been
talking about be non-reflective of actual clothing/textile practices
?(disregarding, for the moment, copies degraded by time or exposure, or
bad reprints <g>....my own copy of the Berry book of hours is one of the
stinky ones! ;-P)
I'm wondering, for instance, about the reds.  Now, we've been
experimenting with natural dyes lately (it seems to be the newest "in
thing" in my local SCA group), and have gotten some wonderful reds and
rusts and such with various period-appropriate dyes and mordants and
fibers, but not that eye-popping cherry-red.  Darn....memory just kicked
in.  I have seen one extant textile (a cut-and-voided velvet) with a red
that cherry-colored.  Later time period, though (16th c.).
Also, despite what seems like an infinite variety of yellows and greens,
I don't see many in pictures...were they painted less often because they
were more common (and hence, less desirable?)? or because it wasn't as
easy to achieve those colors in certain media?
It also occurs to me, as I'm typing this, that when dealing with later
time periods (Elizabethan, for instance), I've also seen a discrepancy
between what is depicted and what is worn.  The listings of the garments
in Elizabeth's wardrobe, for instance, have a really wide variety of
colors ("tawny" is the one that springs to mind, immediately), most of
which I've never seen in any of the portraits, especially the really
late stuff.
Just me, mumbling to my self (and the world) electronically.....
--sue
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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone know Coryn Welgle?
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 23:25:55 -0000
Status: RO

I have a couple of questions about some statements made in the 
historic costume notes of Period Pattern #46 authored by Coryn 
Welgle.  Have any of you ever run into this person?


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ending blackwork (WAS: me too Linda)
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:37:09 -0700
Status: RO

I've found that my methods of ending monochrome embroidery have depended
on the application, and on the fiber I was doing the embroidery with.
I did one shift, many years ago, with a geometric pattern embroidered on
the collar and cuffs.  The thread was metallic, and raveled fiercely at
the first bit of inattention from me.  I finished those ends by burying
them inside the cuff or collar itself (they were two layers of fabric,
plus a bit of interfacing). I learned this method for burying threads
when I used to hand-quilt stuff.
Most of the time, I'm working with a single strand of embroidery floss
on fabric that's a tidge to fine to do little hidden running stitches
on--my stitches only go over 2 or 3 threads as it is.  So I mostly use
the "whip" method, which Chris described below.  With only a single
strand, the whipped area is almost invisible...it's more easily "felt"
in fact, than seen, straight-on.
The only time it's been more obvious (and more of a pain) was on one
coif in which I was using 2 strands of floss.  Not only was the "ridge"
more visible, it was also a lot more devious in un-whipping itself. 
Very, very annoying.  I ended up doing a lot of repair work on the back
side of the coif, and then very, very carefully "sealing" the whipped
lines with this tiny, narrow application of frey check (which I "painted
on" using the pointed end of a straight pin).
--sue

Chris Laning wrote:
> 
> At 11:13 AM -0800 11/13/02, Cassandra wrote:
> >    How do you end the thread on blackwork doing the
> >reversable Holbien stitch?  On counted cross you can
> >run the thread back under the row but that's not
> >reversable, just tidy.  Ditto for other crewel
> >embroidery where the back doesn't show.  Blackwork
> >fiends please reply.
> 
> I'm probably not "fiendish" enough, since I haven't tried this
> myself, but here's what I've watched people do.
> 
> Some people do indeed just pick an area where there's a continuous
> line of stitching on the back, and whip over and over that line with
> their thread for a ways, then tuck it underneath and snip it off.
> This does mean that a few threads on the "wrong" side will look
> suspiciously double-thick, but often they're not too obvious unless
> someone is looking closely.
> 
> The method I've been told the "real" experts use is this: bring the
> thread through to the "wrong" side, then push aside the thread of the
> next stitch on that side, and take three or four little teensy
> running stitches with your working thread directly _underneath_ the
> already existing stitch. Then clip off the end and let the stitch you
> pushed aside fall back into place. Supposedly this is enough to hold
> it firm, and with practice I'm told it's next to undetectable.
> 
> (I do feel compelled to add, BTW, that according to the experts I
> hear talking, not nearly as much of the blackwork done in the 16th
> century actually _was_ reversible as we used to think. A lot of it
> could have a less neat and tidy back because it was lined with
> something else.)
> 
> Hope this helps --
> --
> _________________________________________________________
> O    Chris Laning
> |     <claning@igc.org>
> +    Davis, California
> _________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:48:14 -0700
Status: RO

Have you tried contacting the current printer/distributor?
--sue

Saragrace Thornton Knauf wrote:
> 
> I have a couple of questions about some statements made in the
> historic costume notes of Period Pattern #46 authored by Coryn
> Welgle.  Have any of you ever run into this person?
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 19:18:58 -0500
Status: RO


I know the woman who has done most of those patterns - unfortunately, I only
see her at Pennsic.  She lives in Virginia, but that's not much help.  If I
can find last year's Pennsic merchant guide, I can look up her contact
information, as she merchants every year, I think under the name "Medieval
Miscellania" (tentmakers).

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http:/www.medievalbookstore.com

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT, was: Breastfeedin was Re: teeth
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:56:56 -0800
Status: RO

I wrote: 
> >Gender issues could, however, come into
> play in some cases because of the bias toward "the heir" and to the
> future heavy workers. While this bias isn't as strong as in some
> cultures, it was probably sometimes an issue.
Melanie wrote:
> When you say whilst the bias isn't as strong as in some other cultures
> what/where are you comparing other cultures to ? The US ? I was
> talking about past cultures and archaeological evidence

I was talking about cultural biases in places like China and India 
who continue to have *very* strong anti-female child biases.

> >Some let the baby continuously hold the breast in the mouth
> without any time away from the breast.
> 
> Ok that seems like hard work :) No that isn't on demand & no animals
> don't do that !

But that's what some of the mom's, especially those with babies who 
have "breastfed bottlemouth" do. And they are usually exhausted but 
too pressured from some of the more militant La Leche Leaguers not to 
quit no matter what. (Fortunately, as I said, there are some which 
are far more reasonable about this issue.)

> Snuglie ?

Like a backpack, but slung in the front between the breasts.

> >I have a *very* high rate of
> successfully breastfed babies (including those with working mothers)
> who often breastfeed well past a year of age.
> 
> Is this unusual in the US (I presume you are US ?) It is here

Most US moms don't breastfed past 6 weeks of age whether or not they 
work. It is greatly improved from the past when it was really rare to 
breastfeed (like in the 1970s). But the major problem seems to be 
lack of family or organizational support (and that includes overly 
militant "support" which is worse than none at all sometimes.)

> > >They can't let the baby cry at night or they upset the neighbors.
> > >In
> > medieval times this would have been considered a "normal" noise and
> > not one to shush at all costs.
> >
> > I'd love to see the evidence for this. Have you read the studies on
> > cot death & babies in cultures who arn't forced to sleep alone & cry
> > ? This suggestion, that crying is normal noise,  is not consistant
> > with primate behaviour IMHO, and I've not seen anything supporting
> > such as view in medieval litrature, please have you any refs ?.
> 
> I meant refs suggesting babies were left to cry rather than on cot
> death.

There is a big difference between "left to cry" and a baby who is 
given appropriate attention without it going overboard. There is a 
growing number of "over attentive" moms.

If you want to understand more about babies and appropriate crying, I 
would suggest reading some of T. Berry Brazelton's work, especially 
_The Self Calmed Baby_. (I don't need to go look that one up. I've 
memorized it. I've seen his research and heard him speak a number of 
times. He's an expert on infant behavior and development.)

> >Also, the important literature about this has only been coming out
> for the past 10-15 years at most. A lot of it started with the "Back
> to the Back" campaign for prevention of cot death. I've been in
> pediatrics for more than 20 years and a *lot* has changed in that
> time.
> 
> I've been having babies over 16 years & yes I've noticed :) What you
> should eat what you shouldn't.  put them on their front, no back, ok
> side !!Given it changes with the wind I'm afraid I tend to feel pretty
> cynical that anyone knows what they are on about.

Up until recently, the "norm" was to have babies on their tummies. 
The rationale (which started something like 40 years ago and caught 
on after a big pediatric meeting held in the Netherlands) was that 
babies on their tummies could get their heads out of the vomit. 
Unfortunately, that was never tested until Warren Guntheroth of the 
University of Washington (Seattle. Wonderful man. He's a cardiologist 
I did my medical school rotations with) did the research with a co-
worker. (He's also the one who studied and wrote out all the EKG 
stuff for infants and children. Before him, no one knew *what* normal 
EKG readings were for them, since they are often *quite* different 
from adults when normal. What would be a major heart problem in an 
adult is just the result of small heart in kids.)

Anyway, they found that infants were *more* likely to drown in their 
own vomit on their abdomens or sides. (If on their backs they swallow 
it back down or turn their head to the side.) That let practitioners 
feel more comfortable with putting babies on their backs. You will 
still run into disbelieving nurses and out-of-step docs who still say 
"oh, we have to put them on their sides or they'll choke on their 
vomit."

What they have found in the many years of SIDS (cot death) research 
is that infants placed on their abdomens often do a lot of 
rebreathing of their own carbon dioxide. This causes a reflex which 
shuts down their breathing. (Similar to the diving reflex which 
protects against drowning.) It's not *completely* studied and they 
are still trying to figure out why there are still some children who 
die of SIDS even with the B-t-B campaign.

What you've been seeing which is so confusing is the slow 
understanding of how dangerous it is to have a baby on their abdomen 
or side (especially if there are things in the bed like soft 
mattresses, thick blankets/quilts, baby bumpers, pillows, stuffed 
animals, etc.) in the bed with them. (Babies do best on a firm 
mattress with a sleeper and perhaps one blanket wrapped around their 
torso without anything else in the bed with them.) 

Also, there is evidence of problems with co-sleeping. That's because 
of the parent's bodies (and no, they won't necessarily know that 
they've rolled over onto the infant before it's too late. Lots of 
evidence of that starting with the dead infant in the Solomon case 
from the Bible) and the other things in the parent's bed. There's 
also evidence that overheating from the parent's bodies is at least 
partially to blame. A crib or cot beside the bed (if not too small so 
that the infant puts its face against a side of the bed) seems to 
have the *least* SIDS. (That may be one of the reasons that SIDS is 
more common in the winter. People are so afraid of their infant 
getting cold that they overdress them. Poor little mites. I've seen 
more than my share of sweaty, red faced babies over the years.)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fur and dagging
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:56:57 -0800
Status: RO

> One interesting visual example of this, though fairly late after dags
> first start appearing in the artwork, is the famous Arnolfini wedding
> portrait. Giovanna's bag sleeve has an elaborate mass of dags hanging
> from the lower edge. They're hard to work out when you look at a
> reproduction, but in the original it's clear it's a very long strip of
> fabric (almost certainly wool) cut into a pattern of rows of connected
> Maltese-style and then the strip accordion-folded into a stack, with
> one side of the stack of folds attached to the sleeve and the other
> hanging down. There's no shortage of fur lining in the scene, as the
> main body of the dress is fur-lined and the underdress has a fur edge
> showing at the bottom. But the dags are unlined; they seem to be
> layered into two layers, but with separate edges, which may mean two
> strips folded against each other as part of the accordion-folding.
> There's a gold dotty finish to the edges, which may mean edges are
> stitched around with gold thread. An alternative reading (I forget
> where I read this) is that the green wool is actually a multilayer
> sandwich of cloth, green layers on the outside and a gold layer on the
> inside, and that the green edges are pinked to show the gold. I don't
> know if I can quite see how that would work, particularly as the gold
> seems to appear on the protruding points of the pinking, not in the
> "pits" of the pinking.

They've found some drawings from the time period which show the kind 
of dagging found on the Arnofini painting. I believe it was in 
Margaret Scott's book on Gothic period clothing. (In the same series 
as the Jacqueline Herald It Renn book.)

Almost 20 years ago I decided to make this dress. I found some of the 
best reproductions I could find of the it and worked on all sorts of 
ways of getting that look. I can't even remember all the many ways I 
tried (other than the honey-comb smocking which I tried before I got 
a better reproduction.) I finally settled on little circles of satin 
which were carefully satin stitched around the edges and then 
fastened in the middle with each close enough to the next one that 
they acted like petals. Came out pretty, but I was absolutely 
chagrinned when I found that drawing from the 15th C showing how it 
was done. It would have saved me a lot of work (and something like a 
gross of little satin-stitched circles of two layers of satin.) 
(Still looked cool and I still wear the dress on occasion, even if it 
is with a totally different underdress. I don't have a 19" waist 
anymore so the underdress will *never* fit again.)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: teeth
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 21:26:39 -0500
Status: RO

In my family, this is a genetic abnormality. In the last 4 generations  at
least one in four children  do not have enamel on their teeth, and this
occurs  across through out the extended family line.  Nutrition does not
seem to make the difference.  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: teeth


>
> > Kat wrote; [snip]
> > > Roman teeth only showed a 7% rate of
> > >cavities although they had illness and inadequate diet problems as
> > >well (hypoplastic teeth)
> Kate responded:
> > What are hypoplastic teeth?
> > This all goes along with what Robin said about teeth being
> > *relatively* good until the diet changed so that cavities become much
> > more frequent.
>
> These are teeth that do not develop properly due to inadequate diet
> or illness from prenatal through childhood until time of eruption.
> Disruption in the diet or illness anywhere during that time can lead
> to inadequate enamel being laid down, thus leading to hypoplasia.
>
> And yes, it goes along with what Robin was saying. But then she'd
> done a fair amount of study about dental health rather than just
> looking at single cases. (Population studies much more accurately
> reflect what goes on in a group of people than single sensational
> cases. Frankly, you can find those same kinds of sensational cases
> even today when dental health has many more advantages.)
>
> > >Then you add to that things like constant bottles with juice or milk
> > >or constant breastfeeding (which a medieval mom wouldn't have done
> > >like we do now), and you have even *more* cavities.
> >
> > I know nothing about babies, but are you saying that breastfeeding
> > causes tooth decay? And wouldn't it have been *more* common in
> > mediaeval times than today?
>
> The medieval mom had a different pattern of breastfeeding than the
> modern mom. The medieval mom would not have used it as a pacifier
> which is essentially why the "breast fed bottlemouth" of today has
> it. The medieval mom has a breastfeeding pattern more similar to the
> current breastfeeding mom's whose kids are merely fed, then set down,
> and who rarely get "breastfed bottlemouth."
>
> I had been taught throughout medical school and my pediatric
> residency that you couldn't get "bottlemouth" from breastfeeding.
> However, in the past 20 years there has been an increase in it due to
> a change in *how* moms are breastfeeding. They *think* it is more
> natural, but yet it doesn't take into consideration the different
> attitude that mothers of the past had. Now it tends to be "don't let
> the baby cry at any cost, even if it means stopping your current
> activity." A medieval mom couldn't do that. She had to get things
> done no matter what. And chances are that they didn't notice the
> "noise" that is currently one of the big problems with many moms.
> They can't let the baby cry at night or they upset the neighbors. In
> medieval times this would have been considered a "normal" noise and
> not one to shush at all costs.
>
> Kat Russell
> <kat@grendal.rain.com>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Corrie Weigle" <coryn@mediaevalmisc.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anyone know Coryn Welgle?
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 18:45:34 -0800
Status: RO

Mistress Kathea von Linse is her SCA name.  Mundane name is Corrie Weigle.
She used to be "Medieval Miscellania" before some kind of bust up. If she is
still at the address I have for her,  I'll forward this to her.

Regina Romsey

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Saragrace Thornton Knauf
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 3:26 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Anyone know Coryn Welgle?


I have a couple of questions about some statements made in the
historic costume notes of Period Pattern #46 authored by Coryn
Welgle.  Have any of you ever run into this person?


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  1 21:43:36 2002
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 cultures
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 19:43:18 -0700
Status: RO

I don't *think* so, although a lot of the other historical recreation
groups in the US are more locality-tied.  I joined, at least in part,
because it's just the only one around here.  If I lived elsewhere, and
had other options, I'd probably be busily pursuing them, too!
The SCA's biggest advantage (from the perspective of someone from the
inside) has got to be its flexibility....it makes us a lot more
inclusive and accessible than some other groups that have more stringent
requirements for participation.  And since the scope of our "period" is
so broadly based, it helps to serve as a great umbrella organization for
people of all different interests, whether that be narrowly defined, or
broadly defined.  Like me, for instance.  I'm pretty much interested in
clothing/textiles/needlework from almost any time period.
Of course, I sometimes think that that flexibility and broadness is also
our greatest weakness/challenge.
And there are groups in Europe and elsewhere in the world.  It's not
solely a US thing, even if it did start here.
--Sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Say, is this why it seems that people tend mostly to join the huge society, the
> SCA, and not found smaller local ones that specialise in certain periods
> (before the 18th century) because you have no locality to tie it to? Just a
> thought, I'm ever curious.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Color in art (was Tippets)
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 18:33:29 -0800
Status: RO

At 4:18 PM -0700 12/1/02, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>In what other ways could the colors in illustrations such as we've been
>talking about be non-reflective of actual clothing/textile practices
>?(disregarding, for the moment, copies degraded by time or exposure, or
>bad reprints <g>....my own copy of the Berry book of hours is one of the
>stinky ones! ;-P)

Gilded highlights in manuscripts is another good example.  Keeping in 
mind the previous thread (or was that on a different mailing list?) 
about gold applied to fabric, gold designs on clothing in manuscript 
art are far more common than plausible in real life, and the use of 
metallic gold to show clothing highlights is clearly purely an 
artistic convention.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 14:13:15 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

Greetings all,


Phew! <wiping brow> it's finally done. My permanent
garb galleries are online, and on a free web server
with no bandwith limitations too I might add! Those of
you sick and tired of "this member has exceeded
bandwidth limits" will be happy to hear that - I know
I was! :)

So, all my stuff is up - from the first tremulous
pattern drafting experience to my latest court gown,
but some of you will have already seen most of these
gowns. I will add to the galleries as I finish an
item. Questions and feedback welcome. :)

Venetian garb:
<http://realmofvenus.web1000.com/mygarb/mygarbgallery2.htm>

Garb of Other Lands:
<http://realmofvenus.web1000.com/mygarb/otherlands.htm>

Each can be accessed from the other, and both are
linked to on my index page, as usual.

<http://au.geocities.com/bella_lucia_da_verona/index.htm>


I need coffee! :)


Bella



http://www.yahoo.promo.com.au/hint/ - Yahoo! Hint Dropper
- Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  1 22:49:39 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Brief stays question
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 21:38:26 -0600
Status: RO

I have a really quick question that I just need reassurance on :)  I am
finishing a set of 18th Century stays and was wondering if I might also
be able to use this same set for Elizabethan?  While I don't mind making
stays/corsets, I would rather just not have too many sets - and to get
started on my Elizabethan gown! :)

Thanks!

Sarah

Sleep well. . .to eat little, work hard, and have many concerns on our
mind and then refuse to let our body sleep is to try to get a great deal
of work out of a poor, emaciated horse without letting him graze. - de
Sales


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Color in art (was Tippets)
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 21:49:14 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 1 Dec 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> At 4:18 PM -0700 12/1/02, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> >In what other ways could the colors in illustrations such as we've been
> >talking about be non-reflective of actual clothing/textile practices
> >?(disregarding, for the moment, copies degraded by time or exposure, or
> >bad reprints <g>....my own copy of the Berry book of hours is one of the
> >stinky ones! ;-P)
> 
> Gilded highlights in manuscripts is another good example.  Keeping in 
> mind the previous thread (or was that on a different mailing list?) 
> about gold applied to fabric, gold designs on clothing in manuscript 
> art are far more common than plausible in real life, and the use of 
> metallic gold to show clothing highlights is clearly purely an 
> artistic convention.

Oh yes. I have heard costumers discuss at length how to reproduce the
"gold embroidery" on some costume, when the gold was simply the
illuminator's default color for highlights or decoration. Artists'
contracts sometimes specified quantity and position of gold use as well as
lapis use, which also suggests a reason for the abundance of gold.

You can see examples of the gold clothing highlights Heather is referring
to in the Tres Riches Heures, but only in the pages done by Jean Columbe.
The TRH was done in two widely separated time segments. The Limbourg
brothers began it in the 14-teens. All three of them died by 1416,
mid-book. Jean Columbe picked up the work between 1485-89. This makes
costume analysis a little dicey, as you have to be able to distinguish the
artists' styles to date the images. For that matter, some of the pages are
a combination of both the Limbourgs and Columbe. Fortunately the chief
secular scenes (the calendar) are mostly Limbourg; you can see Columbe's
touch (and his preference for gold wash highlighting) in November, as well
as the bottom portion of the September page.

Even when the gold is used as a pattern design, that doesn't mean it's
reliable. For that matter, patterns in general are not always reliable --
meaning the style of the pattern, the scale of the pattern, or the
presence/location of the pattern. This varies from one school to another,
and one artist to another. Some artists were pretty good about reproducing
textile patterns on images of clothing or textile furnishings, but others
used the same repertoire of patterns regardless of whether they were
showing diapered backgrounds, floor tiling, fabric, or whatnot.  Also,
patterns may not be to the same scale as they would be in real clothing --
enlarged or shrunk to fill the visual space on the page nicely, not to
imitate the proportion of the fabric on the person's body.

As a rule, painters (e.g. 15th c. and later) tended to be better about
pattern than manuscript artists, for reasons relating to the nature of
their commiwsions and subject matter. I have a friend who has done quite a
few papers analyzing the textile patterns in Van Eyck's paintings, where
the same group of rugs and fabrics keep showing up, artfully displayed as
backgrounds and furnishings in various scenes. These were apparently
painted from textiles he had in his possession.

Choice of colors as well as patterns can be symbolic, of course, but
specific meanings of colors or patterns can vary from one period or artist
to another. Stripes might designate a prostitute, but not always, for
instance. Other embellishments might be there to announce "foreigner" or
"saint." The Virgin is usually in a blue mantle over a loose dress (often
in rose); I found it jarring when I came upon a Quentin Massys painting in
Brussels that reversed this combination!  There's research on the color
symbolism in specific paintings, schools, and styles buried throughout the
art history literature, but lacking the time and access to dig them up
each time I hit a curious image, I usually find the best thing is to bone
up on iconography, identify the individuals in each image, and compare the
painting at hand with other images by the same artist or in the same
school, to see if I can identify consistent trends.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 20:48:19 -0700
Status: RO

on 12/1/02 12:52 AM, michaela at thebruce@ihug.co.nz wrote:

> 
> Oh no, but it's all part of the continuum. And I was really meaning copying
> direct from a pattern say and getting everything exactly the same.
> Continuum see:) And at the extreme end of recreation is what was made for
> the World of Wearable Arts recently held here in NZ. Where it's all about
> doing new things with covering the body.
> http://www.wearableart.co.nz/
> 
>Incredible stuff!  But I don't understand how the winner got the Bernina award
when it doesn't look like there could have been an inch of thread in that
armor.

Sylvia Rognstad
-- 
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 19:38:07 +1300
Status: RO

> > Continuum see:) And at the extreme end of recreation is what was made
for
> > the World of Wearable Arts recently held here in NZ. Where it's all
about
> > doing new things with covering the body.
> > http://www.wearableart.co.nz/

> Incredible stuff!  But I don't understand how the winner got the Bernina
award
> when it doesn't look like there could have been an inch of thread in that
> armor.

That's because it was the first time entrant award, not for use of a Bernina
sewing machine;)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 07:48:52 -0000
Status: RO

Taken off list

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  2 03:16:04 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brief stays question
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 08:13:02 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Sarah Krans <GSSarahAOII@catholicexchange.com> wrote: > I have a really
quick question that I just need reassurance on :)  I am
> finishing a set of 18th Century stays and was wondering if I might also
> be able to use this same set for Elizabethan?  While I don't mind making
> stays/corsets, I would rather just not have too many sets - and to get
> started on my Elizabethan gown! :)

Sarah, while I am by no means an expert in either 16th nor 18th century
costumes (ask me about anything in between *G*) I know enough about stays for
all three hundred years to say that no, unfortunately 18th century stays and
16th century ones are totally different and will give a different body shape. I
have loads of photos of extant stays (16th to 18th centuries) at home, if you
like I can upload a couple tonight to show the differences. Don't do this,
honestly, don't use 18th century ones as foundation for a 16th century dress.

Nicole - who finally finished all the painting and stencilling and decorating
jobs on walls etc. in her room. Whoohoo. Back to sewing soon!

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 08:17:09 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au> wrote: >
> So, all my stuff is up - from the first tremulous
> pattern drafting experience to my latest court gown,
> but some of you will have already seen most of these
> gowns. I will add to the galleries as I finish an
> item. Questions and feedback welcome. :)
> 
> Venetian garb:
> <http://realmofvenus.web1000.com/mygarb/mygarbgallery2.htm>

Lovely, lovely, lovely Bella!

> Each can be accessed from the other, and both are
> linked to on my index page, as usual.

hehehe, and guess what, when I clicked on that link it said... 'temporarily
unavailable, member exceeded bandwidth' *G*

I really like your garb galleries, very interesting, and beautiful gowns.

Nicole- with more gold paint on her fingers than on the walls, so it feels.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 00:32:32 -0800
Status: RO

Last year I was able to get participant discount tickets for people, on 
more than one occasion, without their having to pay for them first.  This 
year the same person, who let me do this last year, told me not only did 
she never do this last year, but she won't do it this year.  So people will 
have to make other arrangements for their Dickens' Fair tickets than thru me.

I apologize for any inconvenience this may mean.

Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume uploaded:)
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 21:38:41 +1300
Status: RO

I have got the film back and I've scanned piccies of the costume I made.
http://recital.tripod.com/costume/eowyn.htm

http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/eowynprb.jpg
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/eowynground.jpg if tripod limits vies
you can see these in the meantime:)

Not bad for a few days work.
Monday found out about the picnic.
Tuesday bought the fabric and cut the body of the dress.
Wednesday cut the lining and sewed the body up, faced the neck.
Thurday morning recut sleeves made the fabric peices for the belt and that
night bought fabric for the sleeves
Friday cut sleeves found the silk to line the sleeves assembled the belt.
Saturday made bias tape and hemmed the skirts, made the rings for the belt
(formed wire around a cylinder and cut them) sewed the beads and bits to the
neckline and belt.

I love this dress so much. And am thinking of removing the bits that make it
"Eowyn's" dress fromt he movie (the beading and the sleeve lining) and then
bordering the sleeves, belt, neckline and inner sleeves in black velvet.
This would make it match a design I drew last year of an Angel costume. I'd
then perhaps pin back the sleeves as well....

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume uploaded:)
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 08:58:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote: > I have got the film back and I've
scanned piccies of the costume I made.
> http://recital.tripod.com/costume/eowyn.htm

Great! What a lovely dress Michaela, you look gorgeous in it.
> 
> I love this dress so much. And am thinking of removing the bits that make it
> "Eowyn's" dress fromt he movie (the beading and the sleeve lining) and then
> bordering the sleeves, belt, neckline and inner sleeves in black velvet.
> This would make it match a design I drew last year of an Angel costume. I'd
> then perhaps pin back the sleeves as well....

and why not! I will make a white one, but more Preraphaelite like the movie
dress. then again I have helmet, chainmail, sword and shield all in 'real'
(yep, re-enactm,ent stuff, not costume stuff, iron and steel is what I say
every woman needs *LOL*) and all the way _I_ imagine Eowyn, not the movie idea.
It looks all different but is all recognisable for someone who has read the
book, not necessarily though for people who haven't but watched the film.

I really love your dress, and so quick it was too! Congrats. :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 22:13:58 +1300
Status: RO

> I have got the film back and I've
> scanned piccies of the costume I made.
> > http://recital.tripod.com/costume/eowyn.htm
> Great! What a lovely dress Michaela, you look gorgeous in it.

Thanks:) And it really wasn't hot even though it was a hot day and I got
very very mildly sunburnt. I mean not enough to change colour but enough to
have tingly skin.

> and why not! I will make a white one, but more Preraphaelite like the
movie
> dress.

Sorry, you lost me there for a sec, mine is exactly as the movie costume was
made... or are you leading into the differences you'll be making by first
mentioning what you will be doing the same?

then again I have helmet, chainmail, sword and shield all in 'real'
> (yep, re-enactm,ent stuff, not costume stuff, iron and steel is what I say
> every woman needs *LOL*) and all the way _I_ imagine Eowyn, not the movie
idea.
> It looks all different but is all recognisable for someone who has read
the
> book, not necessarily though for people who haven't but watched the film.

Hehe, I've seen a few drawings by other artists of Eowyn in her battle
costume, and while I think they are gorgeous and really pretty, wasn't it
supposed to be a surprise when she took her helmet off, as in you all
thought I was a man, but ahah! I am a woman;)?

I'd like to make soemhting like the Persephone's Descent of the World of
Wearable Art Awards:) I used to be a *big* fan of fantasy novels (then moved
into the satirical fantasy Discworld;) ) and drew women in funky armour
everywhere. Would love to be able to make some of them... ah well. I shall
have to stick to heat set plastics as even removing (high qualty) grommets
is taking its toll on my wrists. Don't wanna hasten deformities by bashing a
lot of metal;)

> I really love your dress, and so quick it was too! Congrats. :-)

Thanks again:) It's one of my favs of all the things I've made;)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Breaking bread, teeth & ear picking
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 09:45:44 +0000
Status: RO

Dorothy Hartley quotes (from a longer poem on dining out in the Middle Ages):
Byt not thy brede and lay it down
That is no curtesye to use in Town
But breke as muche as thou wylle ete
The remelant to the pore thou shalle lete

Unfortunately she doesn't give a specific source.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk 12/01/02 05:21pm >>>
>Someone asked about Dorothy Hartley's books on this list a while back. I'm
pretty sure my notions about the mediaeval origins of modern table manners
came from her "Food in England", but that was published 40-50 years ago, so
theories may have changed since then...

I like her books but she tends to assume anything 'country' originates in
medieval time, whilst some is true eg agricultural tools are similar, it can
be a bit simplistic any way I'll look into Food in England I have a copy

Mel




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume uploaded:)
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 10:22:24 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote: 

> Sorry, you lost me there for a sec, mine is exactly as the movie costume was
> made... or are you leading into the differences you'll be making by first
> mentioning what you will be doing the same?

Whoops! Sorry, non-native-speaker stroke again. ;-) I said 'like' but in fact I
meant 'than' (which of course changes the meaning of the sentence into the
opposite *laughs*) more Prerpahaelite _than_ the movie one, because I love
those that have the tight sleeve underneath and I also want a broad band of
something on the hem. 

> Hehe, I've seen a few drawings by other artists of Eowyn in her battle
> costume, and while I think they are gorgeous and really pretty, wasn't it
> supposed to be a surprise when she took her helmet off, as in you all
> thought I was a man, but ahah! I am a woman;)?

absolutely, Dernhelm didn't look at all like a woman, though I like some
artists' drawings of the moment she takes the helmet off and out comes the
blond hair.

> I'd like to make soemhting like the Persephone's Descent of the World of
> Wearable Art Awards:) I used to be a *big* fan of fantasy novels (then moved
> into the satirical fantasy Discworld;) ) and drew women in funky armour
> everywhere. Would love to be able to make some of them... ah well. I shall
> have to stick to heat set plastics as even removing (high qualty) grommets
> is taking its toll on my wrists. Don't wanna hasten deformities by bashing a
> lot of metal;)

Nah, but the solution is what I do: get your blackmsith to make you the armour.
Every girl needs a trusty blacksmith *winks*

> > I really love your dress, and so quick it was too! Congrats. :-)
> 
> Thanks again:) It's one of my favs of all the things I've made;)

:-))) And you look sure lovely in it! (could kill you for your hair, hehe)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 10:34:11 -0000
Status: RO

>Unfortunately she doesn't give a specific source.


No she never does :(  I expect somebody who was into language & how it was
written might know the time, it looks later to me eg 15th or onwards, but
I'm no expert on that !!

Mel

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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Dress and "The Invention of Tradition"
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 10:42:31 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I have been re-reading Hugh Trevor-Roper's paper on the invention of
the Highland tradition of Scotland, included in:

"The Invention of Tradition"
edited by Eric Hobsbawm and Terence Ranger, (Cambridge University
Press
1983).

and I heartily recommend it to anyone who hasn't previously come
across it. It's a beautiful hatchet job:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:26:25 -0000
Status: RO

>Found it: the Babees Book. In particular, the Book of Courtesy: dated
"about" 1460, possibly including bits as early as 1420.

Is it the same ? It looked similar but as I haven't the book in front of me
it is hard to remember,(IMR my copy is a dual text) but as I said in my
other post where I gave ref to a load of info the Babees book it dosen't
necessarily mean our breaking bread originated there, just that in both time
there was a tradition of breaking bread, continuance would be more
convincing, nice idea though it is :)

Mel
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume uploaded:)
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 00:26:00 +1300
Status: RO

And I know more of you guys have seen my page tonight.. I keep track on who
visits my site... ;)

Ooh. have you seen photos of women in the late 19thC opera? Specifically
Faust and the Valkyries of Wagner's operas? While many dn't look like
they've stepped out of a PRB painting they have that great 19thC meets well
19thC vision of the middle ages or renaissance;) I have a few scanned.. I'll
see if I can pop some on a site somewhere...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0753802104/202-5321659-0143852
The book of Pre-Raphaelite Women is still available:) Interesting.. the
image makes it look like the book is in portrait format.. I'm sure mine is
more square

> Whoops! Sorry, non-native-speaker stroke again. ;-) I said 'like' but in
fact I
> meant 'than' (which of course changes the meaning of the sentence into the
> opposite *laughs*) more Prerpahaelite _than_ the movie one, because I love
> those that have the tight sleeve underneath and I also want a broad band
of
> something on the hem.

Ahah! Like with the corset too:) Cool:) Just thought I'd ask, as it's so so
very easy to misconstrue what someone wrote :) I had fun when I saw the
lillies.. i went.. woohoo! Perfect PRB symbo;) Howevr the pose was very much
like in a Toulmouch painting:)

> > Hehe, I've seen a few drawings by other artists of Eowyn in her battle
> > costume, and while I think they are gorgeous and really pretty, wasn't
it
> > supposed to be a surprise when she took her helmet off, as in you all
> > thought I was a man, but ahah! I am a woman;)?
> absolutely, Dernhelm didn't look at all like a woman, though I like some
> artists' drawings of the moment she takes the helmet off and out comes the
> blond hair.

yeah same, and with her hand resting on the sword:)

> Nah, but the solution is what I do: get your blackmsith to make you the
armour.
> Every girl needs a trusty blacksmith *winks*

hehe, well I suppose I could bat my lashes at some of the SCA guys...;)

Oh yeah and I forgot to mention..
I won a double pass to see The Two Towers with my costume:) No I didn't come
first, but aparently it was a real tie and the family that won won because..
well they were a family and yeah;)

They won a pass to Hobbiton, would have been nice but what can you do;)

However Bruce Hopkins (Gamling) who was doing the judging with a girl from
Amnesty made a really nice speech about how much my costume looked like the
real thing and that that everyone will see it it with the publicity coming
up soon:) Anf then I got a photo with him and his autograph.

Although.. lol! I have worked with him before:) For This Is It. Apparently
they are doing something for the America's Cup this week too.

And then a guy from Knights Draconis had been in This Is It too, and his
comment to me about my cossie?

Should have had boning in it.

Dork.


> > > I really love your dress, and so quick it was too! Congrats. :-)
> > Thanks again:) It's one of my favs of all the things I've made;)
> :-))) And you look sure lovely in it! (could kill you for your hair, hehe)

heheh, funny thing is my hair used to be this long, then it broke off due to
stress and being a really broke performing arts student (read lived on
instant noodles) and it's started to gor back like never before because of
the meds I'm on! It's the sulphur in it so while I wouldn't recommend anyone
try the stuff I'm on, I would suggest a suppliment that contains sulphur.
Nice other side effect is that it's working like an antibiotic, but without
the nasty side effects:) I mean though I'm on immunosuppressants I've only
been sick once this year and once last year:)
Oh and I now have long long nails. So long I have to file them back
constantly or I wind up poking myself in the eye when putting my contact
lenses in;)

I love having long hair:) It's also very useful for stage work:) Especially
as I have no fringe (or bangs for our American friends). So it works for any
era. And yes it does tuck up under a wig quite nicely. Especially as I
learnt a very good trick from the make up team on Xena/JoAT:
Make four french plaits, two outer that go round the hair line, and in
opposite direction, two inner also alternating. Then you wrap the ends in
the spaces between the rows. They flatten down very well and the rows are
excellent for anchoring the pins through. For hair like mine that will not
flatten in pin curls it's ideal:).

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:11:35 GMT
Status: RO

Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote :

> Dorothy Hartley quotes (from a longer poem on dining out in the Middle Ages):
> Byt not thy brede and lay it down
> That is no curtesye to use in Town
> But breke as muche as thou wylle ete
> The remelant to the pore thou shalle lete
> 
> Unfortunately she doesn't give a specific source.

Found it: the Babees Book. In particular, the Book of Courtesy: dated "about" 1460, possibly including bits as early as 1420. 


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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:33:10 GMT
Status: RO

Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote :

> >Found it: the Babees Book. In particular, the Book of Courtesy: dated
> "about" 1460, possibly including bits as early as 1420.
> 
> Is it the same ? It looked similar but as I haven't the book in front of me
> it is hard to remember,(IMR my copy is a dual text) 

I don't have a copy here in work: I was going by an on-line PDF translation.  It looked similar enough to convince me that at the very least they were both working from the same source.



> but as I said in my
> other post where I gave ref to a load of info the Babees book it dosen't
> necessarily mean our breaking bread originated there, just that in both time
> there was a tradition of breaking bread, continuance would be more
> convincing, nice idea though it is :)

Oh yes, very true. And my knowledge of cooking/eating habits more or less stops after the mid-1650s. (It does restart in the 1990s, it's OK!)






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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume uploaded:)
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 22:47:10 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

Pretty, pretty, pretty! :)


Bella 

http://www.yahoo.promo.com.au/hint/ - Yahoo! Hint Dropper
- Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Website Update
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 22:52:11 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote:
<http://realmofvenus.web1000.com/mygarb/mygarbgallery2.htm>
> 
> Lovely, lovely, lovely Bella!

Ta Nicole. :)

 
> > Each can be accessed from the other, and both are
> > linked to on my index page, as usual.
> 
> hehehe, and guess what, when I clicked on that link
> it said... 'temporarily
> unavailable, member exceeded bandwidth' *G*

Yep. I posted the notice on a few lists I'm on. :)

The whole site's going to the new, no-bandwidth-limit
server over the next few months. :)


Bella

 


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume uploaded:)
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 14:07:54 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote: > 
> Ooh. have you seen photos of women in the late 19thC opera? Specifically
> Faust and the Valkyries of Wagner's operas? While many dn't look like
> they've stepped out of a PRB painting they have that great 19thC meets well
> 19thC vision of the middle ages or renaissance;) I have a few scanned.. I'll
> see if I can pop some on a site somewhere...

Yes please!!!!!

> http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0753802104/202-5321659-0143852
> The book of Pre-Raphaelite Women is still available:) Interesting.. the
> image makes it look like the book is in portrait format.. I'm sure mine is
> more squareav

I put it onto my saved-books-for-when-I-have-a-few-quid-after-christmas list.

> > artists' drawings of the moment she takes the helmet off and out comes the
> > blond hair.
> 
> yeah same, and with her hand resting on the sword:)

I just hate the fact I have to buy a blonde human hair wig. I look like an
idiot in blonde!

> Oh yeah and I forgot to mention..
> I won a double pass to see The Two Towers with my costume:) No I didn't come
> first, but aparently it was a real tie and the family that won won because..
> well they were a family and yeah;)

Congrats!!! We have tickets for the opening night, that's why we'll go to
Germany on the 19th and not before... :-)))

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 09:11:49 -0500
Status: RO




>I still don't get this concept of changing the hand your fork is in
>though.

Maybe this will help it make a little more sense...  My great-grandmother
explained to me that this custom dates from the pre-Civil War era (American
Civil War, that is).  According to her, the point of changing the hand your
fork is in, only cutting one piece of meat (or whatever) at a time,
changing hands, then eating it, was for ladies to demonstrate that they
were NOT hungry.  In an era when "ladies" ate a full meal before sitting
down to dinner with company just so that they would not be SEEN eating much
(and therefore enhancing their reputation as frail waifs) it was a way of
being able to take up time at the dinner table without either appearing
rude (by ignoring the food) or appearing to NEED to eat.  This fashion was
taken up by the Northern ladies who did not want to appear "crude" or
"hungry" either, and gradually the male dandies also began eating this way.
I don't know if this is actually true or not, but it does make sense, given
the cultural attitudes of the time.  My great-grandmother died in 1992 a
few months before her 100th birthday (longevity runs in my family) and had
been a anti-bellum southern belle her entire life, so I never questioned
the explanation.  



Just a thought,

Elizabeth

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Subject: [h-cost] French contemporaries of Henry VIII
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 06:20:40 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Being alot rusty on my historical timelines, who was
contemporary with Henry VIII in the rest of the world.
 I know we have Francis I in France but what about the
Hapsburgs and the rest of the eastern European and
Scandinavian countries?  I'm specifically looking for
portraiture, not politics.  I think there's a Holbien
portrait of Christina I of Denmark but I'm not sure
and I'm at a complete loss for the 
Iberian penninsula.  Links?  Help?
                       Cassandra

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Subject: [h-cost] looking for pattern for 18th sack dress
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 15:25:56 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

A friend of mine want's to make a 18th cenury sack dress.
http://www.costumes.org/history/kohler/426.jpg
But she is looking for a not to difficult pattern.
It doesn't have to be perfectly period.

Greetings,
         Deredere



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In a message dated 12/2/2002 9:27:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:


> But she is looking for a not to difficult pattern.
> 

I have the Janice Ryan pattern.  It looks fairly straightforward, but I've 
not actually used it.  Does anyone on the list have experience with it?
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/2/2002 9:27:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">But she is looking for a not to difficult pattern.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I have the Janice Ryan pattern.&nbsp; It looks fairly straightforward, but I've not actually used it.&nbsp; Does anyone on the list have experience with it?<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pattern for 18th sack dress
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I haven't used Janice Ryan's sackback dress, but I have used her others
(jacket and stays).  I really like them.  She even gives some really
good direction as to adjusting the patterns to fit properly.

 

Sarah

 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 9:26 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pattern for 18th sack dress

 

In a message dated 12/2/2002 9:27:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:





But she is looking for a not to difficult pattern.



I have the Janice Ryan pattern.  It looks fairly straightforward, but
I've not actually used it.  Does anyone on the list have experience with
it?
Ann Wass


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<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma
FAMILY=3DSANSSERIF><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>I =
haven&#8217;t
used Janice Ryan&#8217;s sackback dress, but I have used her others =
(jacket and
stays).&nbsp; I really like them.&nbsp; She even gives some really good
direction as to adjusting the patterns to fit =
properly.</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>&nbsp;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>Sarah</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>&nbsp;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>-----Original =
Message-----<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b> =
h-costume-admin@indra.com
[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <b><span =
style=3D'font-weight:bold'>On Behalf
Of </span></b>AnnBWass@aol.com<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Monday, December =
02, 2002
9:26 AM<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> =
h-costume@indra.com<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Re: [h-cost] =
looking for
pattern for 18th sack dress</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>In a message dated =
12/2/2002 9:27:31
AM Eastern Standard Time, triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>But she is looking for a =
not to
difficult pattern.</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'><br>
<br>
I have the Janice Ryan pattern.&nbsp; It looks fairly straightforward, =
but I've
not actually used it.&nbsp; Does anyone on the list have experience with =
it?<br>
Ann Wass</span></font></p>

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In a message dated 11/29/2002 12:51:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
athurman@cybergal.com writes:


> I'm still doing research, but I will keep the Mantua Maker pattern in mind. 
> 
> 

One of the great things about this pattern is that it provides good 
adjustment for different cup sizes--the gussets are sized accordingly.  I 
think this is a good pattern to use as a base, even if you decide to 
cord/bone it differently.

Ann Wass


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/29/2002 12:51:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, athurman@cybergal.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'm still doing research, but I will keep the Mantua Maker pattern in mind.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> <BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
One of the great things about this pattern is that it provides good adjustment for different cup sizes--the gussets are sized accordingly.&nbsp; I think this is a good pattern to use as a base, even if you decide to cord/bone it differently.<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1822? men & boys
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 16:13:39 +0000
Status: RO

I think quite young boys wore long trousers in the early 19th century, often buttoned to a short jacket. The custom of making the transition from short to long trousers starts later than this. 


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> pinner@mccc.edu 11/30/02 04:30pm >>>
What would a 12 year old boy wear in New York in 1822?  Middle class,
son of a professor?  14 year old?  At what age did they go to long
pants? I know adult males were wearing long pants at this time.  And
coats? capes?  For men, boys?  I'm guessing shawls and capes for women
-- what kind of coat would a women wear? Young girl?Thanks for any
suggestions.
Kate

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brief stays question
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:03:15 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

This is a sort of yes & no question...18th c. stays create a much rounder
front than Elizabethan stays, which just flatten you out. Also, the front
point on elizabethan corsets tends to be a bit longer than the JP Ryan
stays.

If your stays have a curved front neckline or horizontal boning sewn
across the top front, you probably won't be able to pass it off as
Elizabethan.  But if you don't, and you're small busted, the difference
in silhouette /might/ be small enough that it wouldn't be noticeable.

I've known women that wear their 16th c. (boned tab) stays for 18th c.
gowns, and say that they look right.

Good luck,

Drea

On Sun, 1 Dec 2002, Sarah Krans wrote:

> I have a really quick question that I just need reassurance on :)  I am
> finishing a set of 18th Century stays and was wondering if I might also
> be able to use this same set for Elizabethan?  While I don't mind making
> stays/corsets, I would rather just not have too many sets - and to get
> started on my Elizabethan gown! :)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sarah
>
> Sleep well. . .to eat little, work hard, and have many concerns on our
> mind and then refuse to let our body sleep is to try to get a great deal
> of work out of a poor, emaciated horse without letting him graze. - de
> Sales
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French contemporaries of Henry VIII
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 08:49:46 -0800 (PST)
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Hi Cassandra.

I believe that Christian the Second was king from 1513 til 1523 where he was dethroned for the bloodbath in Stockholm. After that was Frederik the first from 1523 to 1533 and then Christian the third 1533 to 1559. Christina the first of Sweden was Queen for only a short while after her father Gustav II Vasa was killed during the 30 year war.

Pictures can be found at 

http://home19.inet.tele.dk/soren-kretzschmer/rennaessancen.html

The text is in danish.

Tania

Being alot rusty on my historical timelines, who was
contemporary with Henry VIII in the rest of the world.
 I know we have Francis I in France but what about the
Hapsburgs and the rest of the eastern European and
Scandinavian countries?  I'm specifically looking for
portraiture, not politics.  I think there's a Holbien
portrait of Christina I of Denmark but I'm not sure
and I'm at a complete loss for the 
Iberian penninsula.  Links?  Help?
                       Cassandra




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<P><FONT size=3>Hi Cassandra.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>I believe that Christian the Second was king from 1513 til 1523 where he was dethroned for the bloodbath in Stockholm. After that was Frederik the first from 1523 to 1533 and then Christian the third 1533 to 1559. Christina the first of Sweden was Queen for only a short while after her father Gustav II Vasa was killed during the 30 year war.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>Pictures can be found at </FONT></P>
<P><A href="http://home19.inet.tele.dk/soren-kretzschmer/rennaessancen.html">http://home19.inet.tele.dk/soren-kretzschmer/rennaessancen.html</A></P>
<P>The text is in danish.</P>
<P>Tania</P>
<P><FONT size=3>Being alot rusty on my historical timelines, who was<BR>contemporary with Henry VIII in the rest of the world.<BR> I know we have Francis I in France but what about the<BR>Hapsburgs and the rest of the eastern European and<BR>Scandinavian countries?&nbsp; I'm specifically looking for<BR>portraiture, not politics.&nbsp; I think there's a Holbien<BR>portrait of Christina I of Denmark but I'm not sure<BR>and I'm at a complete loss for the <BR>Iberian penninsula.&nbsp; Links?&nbsp; Help?<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Cassandra<BR></P></FONT><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Yahoo! Mail Plus</a> - Powerful. Affordable. <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Sign up now</a>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  2 12:35:33 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Brief stays question
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:32:02 -0600
Status: RO

It's actually the JP Ryan stays that I'm working on.  It's good to know
that, at least for the time being, the 18thC stays could work.  I am
relatively flat chested (38B) and have a rather long and solid rib cage.
Let's just say that I have 1" between the bottom of my ribs and my
natural waist - and 1" between my natural waist and my hip bones (it
makes fitting 1860's stuff interesting with others helping out!).  What
I have been using under my 18thC gown is an 1870s corset that doesn't
have the waist pulled in too much (and it actually passes!).

I do eventually plan on making a set of 16thC but right now am rather
impatient to start the dress - and low on resources to make the 16thC.

Thanks.

Sarah

Sleep well. . .to eat little, work hard, and have many concerns on our
mind and then refuse to let our body sleep is to try to get a great deal
of work out of a poor, emaciated horse without letting him graze. - de
Sales

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Drea Leed
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 11:03 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brief stays question

This is a sort of yes & no question...18th c. stays create a much
rounder
front than Elizabethan stays, which just flatten you out. Also, the
front
point on elizabethan corsets tends to be a bit longer than the JP Ryan
stays.

If your stays have a curved front neckline or horizontal boning sewn
across the top front, you probably won't be able to pass it off as
Elizabethan.  But if you don't, and you're small busted, the difference
in silhouette /might/ be small enough that it wouldn't be noticeable.

I've known women that wear their 16th c. (boned tab) stays for 18th c.
gowns, and say that they look right.

Good luck,

Drea




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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 10:33:58 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_6093531==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


At 12:50 PM 11/29/2002 -0500, you wrote:

>I've read everyone's replies and am coming to the conclusion that I will 
>need the corset. While the idea of being a mervielleuse with no support at 
>all is appealing from the comfort/daring perspective, I'm a C-D cup and 
>going without will NOT be flattering!

I've used the Mode petticoat pattern and if you can make the time to really 
work on fitting it, it's fabulous for those 1795 to 1807 "layers of muslin" 
dresses. There is a surprising amount of support. I'm a size 12 with a C 
bust and I has able to achieve the double hand span bust position. As I 
said previously, if you can get the fit worked up correctly, I find that it 
also does a good job changing my posture through the shoulders.

For later dresses, Hunnisett has a stays layout that I've found to be 
scaleable. With the later dresses (1810 to 1820) , you need the stays with 
the busk to flatten the CF waist to hip line. You can also change the hang 
of the front of the dress by moving the top of the CF skirt farther up the 
bodice to give it some more hang space but I still think the full stays are 
needed.

If you do go with the stays, you'll still need a chemise underneath or risk 
the Elizabethan skirt without petticoats "tea cozy" look.


>I'm still doing research, but I will keep the Mantua Maker pattern in mind.
>Thanks everyone!
>Allison

Clear as mud? >; )  Good luck with the project


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis



--=====================_6093531==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<br>
At 12:50 PM 11/29/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font size=2>I've read everyone's
replies and am coming to the conclusion that I will need the corset.
While the idea of being a mervielleuse with no support at all is
appealing from the comfort/daring perspective, I'm a C-D cup and going
without will NOT be flattering!</font></blockquote><br>
I've used the Mode petticoat pattern and if you can make the time to
really work on fitting it, it's fabulous for those 1795 to 1807
&quot;layers of muslin&quot; dresses. There is a surprising amount of
support. I'm a size 12 with a C bust and I has able to achieve the double
hand span bust position. As I said previously, if you can get the fit
worked up correctly, I find that it also does a good job changing my
posture through the shoulders. <br><br>
For later dresses, Hunnisett has a stays layout that I've found to be
scaleable. With the later dresses (1810 to 1820) , you need the stays
with the busk to flatten the CF waist to hip line. You can also change
the hang of the front of the dress by moving the top of the CF skirt
farther up the bodice to give it some more hang space but I still think
the full stays are needed.<br><br>
If you do go with the stays, you'll still need a chemise underneath or
risk the Elizabethan skirt without petticoats &quot;tea cozy&quot; look.
<br><br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font size=2>I'm still doing
research, but I will keep the Mantua Maker pattern in mind.</font> <br>
<font size=2>Thanks everyone!</font> <br>
<font size=2>Allison</font> </blockquote><br>
Clear as mud? &gt;; )&nbsp; Good luck with the project<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis <br><br>
<br>
</font></b></html>

--=====================_6093531==_.ALT--

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 13:33:56 -0500
Status: RO



Michaela:

How lovely! That is exactly the kind of dress that made me want to make
costumes in the first place. I did make a white Norman-style gown once, with
fairly narrow skirts and no long sleeves, and then  a very pale see-through
aqua one in the same style but with huge skirts and bell sleeves, and a long
belt like yours. (In case anyone is wondering it was not a risque things --
I wore it over a tightly fitted white chemise.) It wasn't very historical
but it was so wonderful to wear! It stopped fitting after baby number two, I
eventually gave it to one of my babysitters to wear for Halloween!!! Now you
are making me want to do another one.

Is the Pre-Raphaelite Women book mostly text? If it's the one I read (can't
remember the title) I highly recommend it. That one had a whole chapter on
the Bohemiams, which I didn't know was an actual movement. For those of you
who didn't know that either, they were would-be gypsies that lived wild
camp-out lives. Lots of famous people used to go do it for a day or a
weekend and pride themselves on their open-mindedness and daring.

Gail Finke

PS: I used to love watching Jack of all Trades! Not the best show, but lots
of fun and the costumes were great.


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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 10:58:36 -0800
Status: RO

A couple of years ago I made myself a cyclas (early version of 
sideless surcoat, with armholes only about 12" deep) in dark blue 
linen, as something to wear over a lightweight undergown in hot 
weather.

However, when I wear it, it slips around on my shoulders and won't 
stay centered -- sometimes slipping to one side, sometimes too far 
back which raises the front neckline too much (I _hate_ being choked 
by my clothing).

I'm wondering how much of this is the fact that I made it out of 
linen, and how much of it might be an "engineering" problem. Did I 
make it too wide in the shoulders? It's wider at the top than my 
natural shoulder line, since the ones in paintings mostly seem to be 
cut that way. Is it too loose in the torso? Are there any 
modifications I can make to the cut that will help it to behave 
itself?

I'd like to make a wool or brocade one soon as part of a new outfit, 
so I'd welcome suggestions.

(Along with the other problem, I also have the impression that it 
makes me look fat, but I'm not sure whether that's true -- or if so, 
whether it can be helped. I'm your typical middle-aged pear shaped 
person <g>, a bit on the stout side.)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 10:05:06 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:45 AM +0000 12/2/02, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>Dorothy Hartley quotes (from a longer poem on dining out in the Middle Ages):
>Byt not thy brede and lay it down
>That is no curtesye to use in Town
>But breke as muche as thou wylle ete
>The remelant to the pore thou shalle lete
>
>Unfortunately she doesn't give a specific source.

The first place to look might be the collection of metrical 
"etiquette manuals" published collectively as "The Babee's Booke" by 
the Early English Texts Society.

Heather
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 10:10:06 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:42 AM +0000 12/2/02, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I have been re-reading Hugh Trevor-Roper's paper on the invention of
>the Highland tradition of Scotland, included in:
>
>"The Invention of Tradition"
>edited by Eric Hobsbawm and Terence Ranger, (Cambridge University
>Press
>1983).
>
>and I heartily recommend it to anyone who hasn't previously come
>across it. It's a beautiful hatchet job:-)

If I'm remembering the same book, I'll second this.  It's a wonderful 
study of the deliberate invention of "ancient traditions" for 
socio-political purposes.

Heather
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:36:33 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Where would one purchase the Janice Ryan sacque back
gown pattern?  I'm sure someone around here will take
pity on the 9yds of jacquard print I have that looks
somewhat like a Spitfields silk and buy me a sacque
gown pattern for Christmas, as long as I can point
them in the right direction of where to find said
pattern.
   I also miss Jack of All Trades, loved the gowns and
the hero.  Oh well, my enjoyment of a show has been
known to be the kiss of death.
                      Cassandra (who finds this list
dangerous to her ability to stick to just one period)

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In a message dated 12/2/2002 3:38:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:


> Where would one purchase the Janice Ryan sacque back
> gown pattern?  

But to answer this question, Smoke and Fire carries them.
Ann

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/2/2002 3:38:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Where would one purchase the Janice Ryan sacque back<BR>
gown pattern?&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
But to answer this question, Smoke and Fire carries them.<BR>
Ann</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 12/2/2002 3:38:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:


> .
>    I also miss Jack of All Trades, loved the gowns and
> the hero.  Oh well, my enjoyment of a show has been
> known to be the kiss of death.
>                       

The gowns were amazing, all right, but TOTALLY wrong period.  The setting was 
supposed to be early 1800s.  Several of us discussed at the time that the 
designer could have made the clothes, appropriate to the period, with just as 
much sex and eye appeal, but in a different way.  Clearly no knowledge of 
costume history, or just didn't care.  I know it's theater, but still!  Kind 
of like the Adrian "Pride and Prejudice" in the style of the 1830s.

But we don't need to get off on that tangent, do we?
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/2/2002 3:38:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">.<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp; I also miss Jack of All Trades, loved the gowns and<BR>
the hero.&nbsp; Oh well, my enjoyment of a show has been<BR>
known to be the kiss of death.<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
The gowns were amazing, all right, but TOTALLY wrong period.&nbsp; The setting was supposed to be early 1800s.&nbsp; Several of us discussed at the time that the designer could have made the clothes, appropriate to the period, with just as much sex and eye appeal, but in a different way.&nbsp; Clearly no knowledge of costume history, or just didn't care.&nbsp; I know it's theater, but still!&nbsp; Kind of like the Adrian "Pride and Prejudice" in the style of the 1830s.<BR>
<BR>
But we don't need to get off on that tangent, do we?<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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You can purchase Janice's patterns at her website http://www.jpryan.com/ .
She also teaches a class at my Costume Classroom on how to make the gowns.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 17:03:07 -0500
Status: RO

Hi All,

Just letting you know that we are having a huge fabric sale at the Costumers Corner in Boise, ID.  40% off ALL FABRIC.  If you are interested check out www.thecostumeshopboise.com.  Any questions, please feel free to email me.  Sale goes Dec.3rd thru Dec.16th.

Cheers!
Pasha
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: Mrs. Weasley (was Re: [h-cost] Gilderoy Lockhart
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 17:36:42 -0500
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Anyone have a picture of the second Mrs. Weasley sweater?  Sounds
interesting to me, but when I saw the movie, I was between 12 hour shifts of
work, got 3 hours sleep and back to work, so I missed a few details.  I
guess I'm gonna just have to see it again soon to see what I missed in my
sleep-deprived befuddled state.
-Megan


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We have had several students take Janice's stays and the gown classes.
Janice is a really good teacher and explains directions well.  We have
opened both of these classes to year round classes... starting in January,
you can start the class at anytime and the student has two months to
complete the class.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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<DIV>We have had several students take Janice's stays and the gown=20
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well.&nbsp; We have opened both of these classes to year round =
classes...=20
starting in January, you can start the class at anytime and the student =
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<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
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<BR><A=20
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 12:26:40 +1300
Status: RO

> > Lovely, lovely, lovely Bella!
> Ta Nicole. :)

Yeah really lovely:) And it's also really nice to see them all in one
place:)

And thank you for your comments about my dress:) Just thought I'd save list
space and reply here;)

> > hehehe, and guess what, when I clicked on that link
> > it said... 'temporarily
> > unavailable, member exceeded bandwidth' *G*
> Yep. I posted the notice on a few lists I'm on. :)

heheh, I know that feeling;) Fortunately with being in a different time zone
to most people on this list I was able to have a quickie peeky poo before
others were able to view it;)

> The whole site's going to the new, no-bandwidth-limit
> server over the next few months. :)

How on earth do they do it! I also noticed no ads or pop ups on the page....
one is seriously concidering if not a move at least a mirror over there....

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French contemporaries of Henry VIII
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 00:15:02 +0000
Status: RO

The Emperor Charles was a contemporary of Henry VIII, and was the nephew of 
Katherine of Aragon, Henry's first wife. He was a Hapsburg - his father was 
Phillip of Burgundy. His mother was Juana la Loca of Spain.

Hope this helps...

Mary/Katerine

>Being alot rusty on my historical timelines, who was
>contemporary with Henry VIII in the rest of the world.
>  I know we have Francis I in France but what about the
>Hapsburgs and the rest of the eastern European and
>Scandinavian countries?  I'm specifically looking for
>portraiture, not politics.  I think there's a Holbien
>portrait of Christina I of Denmark but I'm not sure
>and I'm at a complete loss for the
>Iberian penninsula.  Links?  Help?
>                        Cassandra
>
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 20:11:20 -0500
Status: RO


Actually, her business is still Medieval Miscellanea - Period Pavilions.
According to the Pennsic 30 merchant guide, she can be found at:
6530 Spring Valley Dr.
Alexandria, VA   22312
703-642-1740
office@medievalmisc.com

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http:/www.medievalbookstore.com

>Mistress Kathea von Linse is her SCA name.  Mundane name is Corrie Weigle.
She used to be "Medieval Miscellania" before some kind of bust up.


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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 19:34:35 -0600
Status: RO

IIRC, Medieval Miscellanea split the tent side of things and is now
concentrating on patterns.

--Charlene


Janet Davis wrote:
> 
> Actually, her business is still Medieval Miscellanea - Period Pavilions.
> According to the Pennsic 30 merchant guide, she can be found at:
> 6530 Spring Valley Dr.
> Alexandria, VA   22312
> 703-642-1740
> office@medievalmisc.com
> 
> Janet
> 
> Janet Davis
> Castle Furnishings
> http:/www.medievalbookstore.com
> 
> >Mistress Kathea von Linse is her SCA name.  Mundane name is Corrie Weigle.
> She used to be "Medieval Miscellania" before some kind of bust up.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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-- 
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Hand-printed sign nearby:   Window frightened.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, "sweetsheep@earthlink.net" <sweetsheep@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ethnic Eating
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 21:13:41 -0500
Status: RO

On Monday 02 December 2002 09:11 am, sweetsheep@earthlink.net wrote:
[text cut here]

> Maybe this will help it make a little more sense...  My great-grandmother
> explained to me that this custom dates from the pre-Civil War era (American
> Civil War, that is).  According to her, the point of changing the hand your
> fork is in, only cutting one piece of meat (or whatever) at a time,
> changing hands, then eating it, was for ladies to demonstrate that they
> were NOT hungry.  In an era when "ladies" ate a full meal before sitting
> down to dinner with company just so that they would not be SEEN eating much
> (and therefore enhancing their reputation as frail waifs) it was a way of
> being able to take up time at the dinner table without either appearing
> rude (by ignoring the food) or appearing to NEED to eat.  This fashion was
> taken up by the Northern ladies who did not want to appear "crude" or
> "hungry" either, and gradually the male dandies also began eating this way.

Still can't imagine why redblooded working class *non* dandies would take the 
custom up, though.  

And as most of us are aware, Americans are perfectly capable of eating lots of 
food, fork switching or not.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, AnnBWass@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janice Ryan sacque gown pattern
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 21:26:21 -0500
Status: RO

On Monday 02 December 2002 03:51 pm, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/2/2002 3:38:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>
> rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:
> > Where would one purchase the Janice Ryan sacque back
> > gown pattern?
>
> But to answer this question, Smoke and Fire carries them.

I'd bet Amazon Drygoods and AlterYears has them, too.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French contemporaries of Henry VIII
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 17:15:01 -0800
Status: RO

Here's a couple of sites that offer portraits, some of rulers.
You might check out the various _Timeline_ sites on the web to find 
Russian, Slavic, Lithuanian references to monarchs but portraiture of 
those folks is hard to come by due to the instability of the 
political/economical climate in those areas - never a really supportive 
condition for the arts.

http://ripley.wo.sbc.edu/faculty/witcombe/ARTH16thcentury.html

http://www.geocities.com/masterhaggen/kings/16th.htm

Good luck,

Theresa Eacker

Cascio Michael wrote:

> Being alot rusty on my historical timelines, who was
> contemporary with Henry VIII in the rest of the world.
>  I know we have Francis I in France but what about the
> Hapsburgs and the rest of the eastern European and
> Scandinavian countries?  I'm specifically looking for
> portraiture, not politics.  I think there's a Holbien
> portrait of Christina I of Denmark but I'm not sure
> and I'm at a complete loss for the 
> Iberian penninsula.  Links?  Help?
>                        Cassandra
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 21:40:40 -0500
Status: RO


Yes, I know the gowns were the wrong period, but I guess I thought that was
part of the show's charm. Very tongue-in-cheek.

Gail Finke


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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 19:05:55 -0800
Status: RO

To Cascio-

Some of these might be interesting:

Christian II of Denmark
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/g/gossaert/2/christia.html

Juana la Loca, Philip I
http://www.macuquina.com/histories/joanna_juana.htm

Gustavas I of Sweden
http://worldroots.clicktron.com/brigitte/gifs7/gustavsweden1523.jpg

Isabella of Portugal
http://www.mezzo-mondo.com/arts/mm/titian/TIZ013.html

Sigismund II of Poland (a little after Henry) 
http://www.uni-mannheim.de/mateo/desbillons/eico/seite137.html

Ivan the Terrible
http://www.lib.utexas.edu/photodraw/portraits/ivan4.jpg

Theresa Eacker


> 
> Cascio Michael wrote:
> 
>> Being alot rusty on my historical timelines, who was
>> contemporary with Henry VIII in the rest of the world.
>>  I know we have Francis I in France but what about the
>> Hapsburgs and the rest of the eastern European and
>> Scandinavian countries?  I'm specifically looking for
>> portraiture, not politics.  I think there's a Holbien
>> portrait of Christina I of Denmark but I'm not sure
>> and I'm at a complete loss for the Iberian penninsula.  Links?  Help?
>>                        Cassandra
>>
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 19:26:22 -0700
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And she's a really nice lady, and very helpful!
--Sue (who took her stays class and her carraco jacket class, and who
will, gawd willing and the creek don't flood, actually get them made one
of these days!)
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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ethnic Eating
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 22:43:08 -0500
Status: RO

Here's the scoop, as it were, on why Americans switch the fork from 
one had to another:

I did a search on Ask Jeeves. Asking "Why do Americans switch hands 
when eating with a fork and knife?" Among other sites, they gave me 
Cuisinenet.com on a page called "A History of Eating Utensils in the 
West: A Brief Timeline". In it under the heading for 1630 was this 
paragraph:

"Governor Winthrop of the Massachusetts Bay Colony possesses what is 
said to be the first and only fork in colonial America. The fad for 
using a fork has not yet reached the Americas, but Americans continue 
to import their knives from Europe. The blunted knives imported from 
Europe are not so easy to eat with as pointed ones were, and many 
people begin to use a spoon to steady food while cutting it. They 
then switch the spoon to the right hand to scoop up the bite of food 
-- the beginnings of what is known today as the zig-zag method."

And just to avoid any more confusion an explanation of the zig-zag method:

The Zig Zag Method
By American custom, which was brought about partly by the late 
introduction of the fork into the culture, all three utensils are 
intended for use primarily with the right hand, which is the more 
capable hand for most people. This leads to some complicated 
maneuvering when foods, such as meat, require the use of knife and 
fork to obtain a bite of manageable size. When this is the case, the 
fork is held in the left hand, turned so that the tines point 
downward, the better to hold the meat in place while the right hand 
operates the knife. After a bite-sized piece has been cut, the diner 
sets the knife down on the plate and transfers the fork to the right 
hand, so that it can be used to carry the newly cut morsel to the 
mouth. Emily Post calls this the "zig-zag" style.

And to be sure they are not making this up, here's the bibliography:

Reading List:
1. From Hand to Mouth, Or, How We Invented Knives, Forks, Spoons and 
Chopsticks, and the Manners to Go with Them by James Cross Giblin. 
New York: Crowell, 1987.

2. The Evolution of Useful Things by Henry Petroski. New York: 
Vintage Books, 1994.

3. The History of Manners by Norbert Elias. New York: Pantheon Books, 1978.

4. Spoon by Habbakuk O. Westman. London: Wiley & Putnam, 1845.

Linda K-S
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Have you tried contacting the current printer/distributor?
--sue

Yes, no response at all from them.

I'll try the number one of you provided and see where that takes me.

Sg

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 21:49:13 -0700
Status: RO

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I have committed to teaching a class at Estrella on the German Goller
and have been puzzling over this pattern in Kohler.  I have drafted it,
fiddled with it and still am unsure if I have understood it.  I finally
drafted my own pattern which looks like the garment, but this thing is
bugging the crap out of me because I can't see how it goes together.  
 
My questions are:
 
1.      Is there a relationship between the pattern on the left and
right, or are these two different patterns for a goller?
2.      Which side is the front and which is the back?
3.      Where does the oblong piece referred to in the text get
inserted?
4.      Why does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on
separately, but then says the standup collar is formed by inserting an
oblong piece between the ends that extended upward in front?
 
 
I am thinking a fresh pair of eyes needs to look at it, so I won't taint
you by telling you how I put it together.
 
 
http://www.saragrace.net/images/Costume/KohlerGoller.pdf
 
A few pictures of gollers:  This one may not look exactly like any of
the pictures below.
 
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/1520baselholbein.htm
 
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/p/pourbus/pieter/index.html
 
Portrait of Jacquemyne Buuck

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<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>I
have committed to teaching a class at Estrella on the German <span
class=3DSpellE>Goller</span> and have been puzzling over this pattern in =
Kohler. <span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;</span>I have drafted it, fiddled with =
it and
still am unsure if I have understood it.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;
</span>I finally drafted my own pattern which looks like the garment, =
but this
thing is bugging the crap out of me because I can&#8217;t see how it =
goes
together.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; =
</span><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
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<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>My
questions are:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
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tab-stops:list .5in'><![if !supportLists]><font size=3D3 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Arial;mso-bidi-font-fam=
ily:
Arial'><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>1.<font size=3D1 face=3D"Times =
New Roman"><span
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></font></span></span></font><![endif]>Is
there a relationship between the pattern on the left and right, or are =
these
two different patterns for a <span =
class=3DSpellE>goller</span>?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1;
tab-stops:list .5in'><![if !supportLists]><font size=3D3 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Arial;mso-bidi-font-fam=
ily:
Arial'><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>2.<font size=3D1 face=3D"Times =
New Roman"><span
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></font></span></span></font><![endif]>Which
side is the front and which is the back?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1;
tab-stops:list .5in'><![if !supportLists]><font size=3D3 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Arial;mso-bidi-font-fam=
ily:
Arial'><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>3.<font size=3D1 face=3D"Times =
New Roman"><span
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></font></span></span></font><![endif]>Where
does the oblong piece referred to in the text get =
inserted?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1;
tab-stops:list .5in'><![if !supportLists]><font size=3D3 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Arial;mso-bidi-font-fam=
ily:
Arial'><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>4.<font size=3D1 face=3D"Times =
New Roman"><span
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></font></span></span></font><![endif]>Why
does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on separately, but then =
says
the standup collar is formed by inserting an oblong piece between the =
ends that
extended upward in front?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>I
am thinking a fresh pair of eyes needs to look at it, so I won&#8217;t =
taint
you by telling you how I put it together.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><a
href=3D"http://www.saragrace.net/images/Costume/KohlerGoller.pdf">http://=
www.saragrace.net/images/Costume/KohlerGoller.pdf</a><o:p></o:p></span></=
font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>A
few pictures of <span class=3DSpellE>gollers</span>:<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>This one may not look exactly =
like any
of the pictures below.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><a
href=3D"http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/1520baselholbein.htm">http://frazz=
ledfrau.tripod.com/1520baselholbein.htm</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p=
>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><a
href=3D"http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/p/pourbus/pieter/index.html">http:=
//www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/p/pourbus/pieter/index.html</a><o:p></o:p></spa=
n></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p=
>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><b><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;
font-weight:bold'>Portrait of <span class=3DSpellE>Jacquemyne</span> =
<span
class=3DSpellE>Buuck</span></span></font></b><font color=3Dblack><span
style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

</body>

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: JoAT Re: [h-cost] Janice Ryan sacque gown pattern
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 18:11:51 +1300
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<<The gowns were amazing, all right, but TOTALLY wrong period.  The =
setting was supposed to be early 1800s.  Several of us discussed at the =
time that the designer could have made the clothes, appropriate to the =
period, with just as much sex and eye appeal, but in a different way.  =
Clearly no knowledge of costume history, or just didn't care.  I know =
it's theater, but still!  Kind of like the Adrian "Pride and Prejudice" =
in the style of the 1830s.>>

But that's exactly the point of theatre/tv it shouldn't be a slave to =
historical correctness as that is not it's purpose. And the audience it =
reaches in the majority knows *nothing* about costume. It needs to be =
able to further story and character and set the mood.

It was also set in the back waters of a little outpost in the pacific =
(well sort of asian/pacific) so fashions were supposed to be out of =
date. I was in an episode (.. One Wedding and a funeral I think) where =
Josephine was a character and she was indeed dressed in early 1800s.

Now if they were going to be a bit more accurate with just how behind =
the fashions would have been (a few years perhaps, I know NZ used to be =
several years behind fashion even this last century!) then the impact of =
the fashionable woman and the islanders would not have made an impact.

And of course the Eiffel Tower featured in one show.. as well as =
American football;)=20

It was such a great show to work on:) So very fun. I got to be goosed by =
Bruce Campell several times during a sequence with him as the Daring =
Dragoon... heheheh. Had a camera about 5 inches from my butt for second =
unit;)

Our costumes were extremely well made except for the hems of the skirts =
(which only used fusible stuff, possibly for easy alterations for =
different heights?) and consisted of chemise, corset petticoat, =
underskirt and over gown. I didn't wear the chemise though as it was not =
fully natural fibres unlike the corset and rest of the kit and when you =
are working in Auckland summers for 15+ hours a day you do as much as =
you can to stay cool:) Some others had silk gowns and some gowns were =
made of fashionable reversable brocades.

http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/onstage.htm
First image I'm on the extreme right of this screen cap.
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/backstage.htm
First four images, it's quite obvious who I am I guess;)

The corsets were straight from Nora Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines and =
fully boned.

My wig was a nightmare. It looked like a big cow pat, so I changed my =
hair colour and got a new one a few episodes from the end.. heheheeh. =
Actually that wig was lovely, very dark brunette and it suited me so =
well.
I have one photo of that.. I really should scan it.... I have a nice =
large flat hat on too...

michela

http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume



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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2716.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">&lt;&lt;The gowns were amazing, all right, but =
TOTALLY wrong=20
period.&nbsp; The setting was supposed to be early 1800s.&nbsp; Several =
of us=20
discussed at the time that the designer could have made the clothes, =
appropriate=20
to the period, with just as much sex and eye appeal, but in a different=20
way.&nbsp; Clearly no knowledge of costume history, or just didn't =
care.&nbsp; I=20
know it's theater, but still!&nbsp; Kind of like the Adrian "Pride and=20
Prejudice" in the style of the 1830s.&gt;&gt;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">But that's exactly the point of theatre/tv it =
shouldn't be a=20
slave to historical correctness as that is not it's purpose. And the =
audience it=20
reaches in the majority knows *nothing* about costume. It needs to be =
able to=20
further story and character and set the mood.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">It was also set in the back waters of a little =
outpost in the=20
pacific (well sort of asian/pacific) so fashions were supposed to be out =
of=20
date. I was in an episode (.. One Wedding and a funeral I think) where =
Josephine=20
was a character and she was indeed dressed in early =
1800s.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Now if they were going to be a bit more accurate =
with just=20
how behind the fashions would have been (a few years perhaps, I know NZ =
used to=20
be several years behind fashion even this last century!) then the impact =
of the=20
fashionable woman and the islanders would not have made an=20
impact.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">And of course the Eiffel Tower featured in one =
show.. as well=20
as American football;) </FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">It was such a great show to work on:) So very fun. =
I got to=20
be goosed by Bruce Campell several times during a sequence with him as =
the=20
Daring Dragoon... heheheh. Had a camera about 5 inches from my butt for =
second=20
unit;)</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Our costumes were extremely well made =
except for=20
the hems of the skirts (which only used fusible stuff, possibly for easy =

alterations for different heights?) and consisted of chemise, corset =
petticoat,=20
underskirt and over gown. I didn't wear the chemise though as it was not =
fully=20
natural fibres unlike the corset and rest of the kit and when you are =
working in=20
Auckland summers for 15+ hours a day you do as much as you can to stay =
cool:)=20
Some others had silk gowns and some gowns were made of fashionable =
reversable=20
brocades.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/onstage.htm">http://homepag=
es.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/onstage.htm</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>First image I'm on the extreme right of =
this screen=20
cap.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/backstage.htm">http://homep=
ages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/backstage.htm</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>First four images, it's quite obvious =
who I am I=20
guess;)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The corsets were straight from Nora =
Waugh's Corsets=20
and Crinolines and fully boned.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My wig was a nightmare. It looked like =
a big cow=20
pat, so I changed my hair colour and got a new one a few episodes from =
the end..=20
heheheeh. Actually that wig was lovely, very dark brunette and it suited =
me so=20
well.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I have one photo of that.. I really should scan =
it.... I have=20
a nice large flat hat on too...</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>michela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce">http://homepages.ihug.co.n=
z/~thebruce</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://recital.tripod.com/costume">http://recital.tripod.com/cost=
ume</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20021202140754.5694.qmail@web13305.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: 19thC opera photosRe: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume uploaded:)
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 18:16:48 +1300
Status: RO

> > Ooh. have you seen photos of women in the late 19thC opera? Specifically
> > Faust and the Valkyries of Wagner's operas? While many dn't look like
> > they've stepped out of a PRB painting they have that great 19thC meets
well
> > 19thC vision of the middle ages or renaissance;) I have a few scanned..
I'll
> > see if I can pop some on a site somewhere...
> Yes please!!!!!

I've scanned the images I have most were photocopies unfortunately but they
still give a good impression:)

http://members.fortunecity.com/christine_daae_1881/opera.htm

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume



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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 19thC opera photosRe: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume uploaded:)
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 08:35:03 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote: 
> I've scanned the images I have most were photocopies unfortunately but they
> still give a good impression:)
> 
> http://members.fortunecity.com/christine_daae_1881/opera.htm

They are lovely, but most of them don't work. :-( There's a tripod error page.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Thanks for the first-hand reports of the show.  But I thought some episodes 
were set in the Caribbean?  In which case the "many years out of date" 
doesn't wash.  But, I confess, I only watched it a couple of times--didn't 
find it nearly as entertaining as I had hoped from the promos. 
Ann Wass
 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Thanks for the first-hand reports of the show.&nbsp; But I thought some episodes were set in the Caribbean?&nbsp; In which case the "many years out of date" doesn't wash.&nbsp; But, I confess, I only watched it a couple of times--didn't find it nearly as entertaining as I had hoped from the promos. <BR>
Ann Wass<BR>
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 05:06:18 -0500
Status: RO

That bears an amazing resemblance to a portrait of the magdalen, 
flemish, can't remember the time period that is in the Wadsworth 
Athanaeum in Hartford CT. Hers is a read dress, but the most 
striking blue bejewelled surcoat with the same cut. I will have 
to find the info on it again, and see if I can find the catalog 
and scan in the pic or find it online.

My husband and I had a long discussion with the curator about 
getting in to photograph the painting as the catalog pic is in 
B&W ;-( because I wanted to use it to document an 'allegorical 
costume' for a fancy dress ball of allegorical/mythological 
people at Pennsic a few years ago.

I still say that that style surcoat is allegorical. I can 
honestly say I have never seen a surcoat like this on what is 
supposed to be an actual person before[I don't consider the 
Magdalen to be an actual person...]
margali

Bella wrote:


> Sure. Actually, a friend on another list scanned the
> image and enlarged the figure, then uploaded it to her
> site....
> 
> <http://www.pbase.com/image/7583361>
> 
> 
> Bella
> 
> 
> http://www.yahoo.promo.com.au/hint/ - Yahoo! Hint Dropper
> - Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
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> 
> 
> 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ethnic posture? was body type periods
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:00:46 -0000
Status: RO

Americans seem to take more space & be louder because English people are not
used to their accents and they therefore stand out. I was on a human remains
course last summer and an american lady was also in attendance. During the
first few days in the small porta cabin classroom we all shared she seemed
to do nothing but yell , but after a few days it seemed less so (this was
remarked on by several of the English) I'm pretty convinced we simply learnt
to turn out her speech the way we automatically do with others speech which
falls in our 'normal' range. Generally most British will not notice american
accents on TV as their brains tune out or into them as 'normal' for the box
in the corner. This also happens with other accents say Glaswegian, if you
are not familiar with it on a regular basis.

Personal space issues are more difficult but I don't think are nationality
based alone, it will also reflect the cultural aspects with that country.
Not all Americans react the same, neither do all, Brits, French or
what-have-you. To me city people (regardless of nationality) have a tendancy
to rudeness, they don't speak, see you or let you go by politly (obviously
not all of them) However, this changes greatly if you dress in Victorian kit
(in London at least) Where people get out of you way, open dors and (heavans
above) converse with you. How much of this is pure costume & how much is the
way I become a different person in Victorian is hard to say as I've heard
other have problems in such kit of people being abusive , I've never had
that in any kit in any country (well once but he didn't live long ;))

In a large skirt I expect others to remove themselves from my path, as I
would have done had I worn it at the time, I don't see any reason to defer
to others in space, most people get the idea. This sounds pretty lofty I'd
agree but it is the way I react in my Victorian or other gentry kit, if I'm
in lower class kit I act like a lower class would & remove myself.

Mel

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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 05:13:50 -0500
Status: RO

My german buddy is coming over in january, I might be persuaded 
to ask him to bring it over if you could get it to him, and I 
could ship it on from here...
margali

Cassandra Greer wrote:

> Well you could talk to me about it - the problem is getting this book from
> here to you (wherever you are - I assume the States? I live here in Munich.
> 
> Cass :)
> 
> 
>>Maybe I missed it, but how could I get my hands on a copy of this catalog?
>>
>>Mary/Katerine
>>(who is once again buying books for the pictures!)



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Subject: Re: body type periods, was Re: [h-cost] 1940s House
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 12:25:45 -0500
Status: RO

I'm a dead ringer for those 16th century Flemish genre paintings showing
women doing things with food as some kind of allegory about the sins of
the flesh.

I got told a while ago at an SCA event that I had "the right face" for
what I was wearing.  I doubt that's actually the case... but I do have
fair English sort of skin and wasn't wearing any make-up.

K.

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: body type periods, was Re: [h-cost] 1940s House
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 16:37:15 -0000
Status: RO

>I have to say though, I have never seen so amny ugly and awful teeth as
here in England, as sorry I am to say this, but it is true and quite
shocking.
Occasionally I can't really look into someone's face when speaking to them,
then again, at least the teeth here are very historically correct apparently


Do you mean crowded or going bad ? Much of the crowding problem is because
modern people eat mush for food & the jaw does not develop fully

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ethnic posture? was body type periods
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 17:15:58 -0500
Status: RO

Linda wrote:
> I wonder how much large clothing plays in this. I attended an event 
> this past weekend where a lady wearing a hoplande with a very long 
> train stopped in a hall to talk with a person standing against the 
> wall. Because of where she stopped, the train effectively blocked the 
> entire walk way in the hall. She, being in conversation was oblivious 
> of the number of folks who tried to not step on the train while 
> hurrying on their errands ladened with large trunks, bags or baskets 
> and the minor stir this caused between two who exchanged rude 
> behavior. Another whisked by in a purple Elizabethan with a rather 
> large hoop skirt. Her skirts touched people who were along the walls 
> of the halls. The person I was near exclaimed on how she would never 
> wear a dress like that as you can't avoid hitting people and things.

Someone once suggested (half-jokingly, I *hope*) that Elizabethan
costume shouldn't be allowed at large/crowded SCA events, for this very
reason.

Me, I handle my skirts by looking ahead a bit and planning which way to
go places, so I don't get tangled up in close-set furniture or anything.
When moving through crowded spaces I hold my skirts in my hand to keep
them out of the way.  But then, I'm not in a farthingale, just multiple
layers of fullish skirts.

I think I'd find it much more threatening to have large costumes
assaulting me at head height than at ankle height.  I'm not very
protective of my ankle-space, but if someone had a large spiky hat or
something, it might bother me.

This weekend just past, I visited a museum which had a display of a
typical Victorian parlour.  It seemed very crowded given the size of the
skirts for much of that period.  Anyone know how on earth they moved
around their over-furnished houses in crinolines?

K.

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Subject: [h-cost] fluoride
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Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 07:30:37 -0000
Status: RO

>Out of curiosity - are there places in Europe that add fluoride to their
drinking water? It's done all over the US as a way to improve dental
health...

Yes it is done in England in my area at least, I hate that, tastes foul, now
we tend to buy bottled water like the continentals so it is a pretty
pointless excersise !!

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec  3 08:36:05 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ethnic posture / identification
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Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 11:32:48 -0500
Status: RO

Jean asked:
> I thought about it, and I realised that, living in a very varied 
> population like we do in the UK and US, the first thing I would describe 
> about someone was their hair colour and texture, because that splits 
> people up into reasonably small groups very quickly.  People from less 
> mixed populations, to my eyes are all squeezed into a very small part of 
> that range,(for example, Asian/subcontinental - fine silky black hair, 
> south-east Asian - thick straight black hair) so I find them difficult 
> to tell apart, until I know them well enough to recognise features that 
> in [genetically] European people I wouldn't pay so much attention to.
> 
> I was wondering whether people from communities which, to my eyes, seem 
> all to have the same type of hair, identify by finer differences in hair 
> colour and type, or is the first thing you distinguish a different 
> feature which has more variety?

I grew up in Australia, and went to a boarding school there.  At that
school there were a number of asian students (mostly Singaporean,
Malaysian, and from Hong Kong), and I had great difficulty telling them
apart because (to me) they all had similar facial features and hair.  I
learnt to distinguish them by the shoes they wore, the style of their
glasses, etc.

One term I roomed with a Singaporean girl, and we got talking one night
and she told me she had equal difficulty distinguishing between
anglo-australian girls.  Unfortunately she didn't give me any
information on how asian people distinguish themselves.  I don't *think*
they would use shoes and glasses like I did!

K.

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Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:22:43 -0000
Status: RO

>,(for example, Asian/subcontinental - fine silky black hair,
south-east Asian - thick straight black hair) so I find them difficult
to tell apart, until I know them well enough to recognise features that
in [genetically] European people I wouldn't pay so much attention to.

I can generally split Indian/Pakistani people into their regions by their
looks and their behaviour (at least I think that is how I do it I'm not that
sure really) But in my area there a many around so I'm more tuned into it.
>From speaking to friends from Asian communities I've heard them say we
(European genetically) look the same. Leicester (the city not county) white
people all look the same to me & I can't tell most 50-60 year olds from one
another, sounds weird but there is a certain stamp to them (Gross
generlisation obviouly some do differ !!!)

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] English Royalty fashions of the 1700s...
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Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 07:27:54 -0600
Status: RO

I was wondering if you could direct me to any websites where I can find
information on English Royalty fashions of the 1700s mainly dealing with
men's wigs and women's accessories.

Thank you for your help.

curtis

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10211260823230.30727-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: teeth Re: [h-cost] RE: behavior and cultures (was: Re: body typeperiods)
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Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:32:30 -0000
Status: RO

>Most tooth loss comes from plaque-related diseases (tooth decay and gum
disease). These were apparently not a great problem until refined sugar
became widely available

Peridontal disease and absesses were wide spread long before sugar was
around, there is some evidence of decay but as you say it tends to be less
than now. Another big problem is wear from grit etc this wears away the
enamal & leave the tooth more open to decay

>Of course, in the Middle Ages, a broken or lost tooth couldn't be fixed or
replaced, and when you did get a tooth disease, you would have it pulled,

Depends where but there were so instances of repairs

>But far fewer teeth were lost in the first place
than were, say, a century ago.

Hmm not sure on this one, I've seen skellys with no teeth at all one lady
dubbed Godiva lost hers so long before death even the jaw had remoudled &
there were no holes visible at all (where teeth would have been)

 >There were also a variety of teeth-cleaning methods in use historically,
depending on your class and culture. I was most amused at a scene in
Shakespeare in Love, when Gwyneth Paltrow is dressing, and her nurse hands
her some small instrument and demands she clean her teeth. I'm not sure
what the instrument was, but it looked like the equivalent of the
frayed-end stick used commonly by many more "primitive" cultures.

Tooth picks are common archaelogical finds, reminies from leechdoms &
medical manuals are pretty common too.

> If only people went for natural looking colours, like ivory and not
> screaming white, that would be so much better, and not those front
> rows of teeth that look like being chiselled out of one block.

Actually people are barking up the wrong tree with the tooth thing, with
bigger jaws their tooth alighnment would be very good. Their mouths probaly
stank from peridontal diese & had plenty of plaque built up :)

Mel


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec  3 08:36:26 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ethnic eating
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Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 10:07:33 -0500
Status: RO

Glenda wrote:
> 
> Historical Note: These entirely different ways of eating using a knife and
> fork has me coming to the conclusion that eating with both of these as a
> matter of course with all classes of people may have come on after the start
> of the US colonies, but before the start of the Australian colonies, as the
> US one seems so different, but the Aust. one is practically identical. Maybe
> it might have something to do with the early US population being made up of
> more mainland Europeans than the Australian mix. Anyone have any ideas?

In a book I have (goes to check...) "In Small Things Forgotten: An
Archaeology of Early American Life" by James Deetz, he suggests it's to
do with the fashions in pointy or round-ended knives and the
introduction of forks into the mainstream in England before they arrived
in America.

Basically, if you have a pointy knife you can use it to jab food and
lift it.  If you have a round knife you can't.  Oh, let me just quote...
this is too hard to paraphrase:

    The first mention of a fork in the Plymouth Colony area... is in
    1721... but significant numbers do not show up... until the second
    half of the century.  When forks appeared in quantities in England,
    knives changed in shape, and rounded blade ends replaced the pointed
    ones, since forks had assumed the function of the pointed blade.
    However, since most knives were made in England, and the fork
    appeared later in America, this relationship did not prevail in the
    New World.

    Using a round-ended knife and not having a fork, one would either
    have made considerable use of the fingers conveying solid foods to
    the mouth or made do with a spoon.  This raises an interesting, if
    conjectural, point.  Americans often comment that Europeans use
    their forks "upside down."  In fact ,by the simple rule of priority
    and majority, it is we Americans who are "upside down".  Since we
    did not learn to use forks until some time after the ends of knives
    were rounded, the change in the manner of food conveyance was not
    directly from knife tip to fork tine, as it ws in England.  The only
    intermediate utensil available was the spoon; one could cut food and
    transfer it to the spoon bowl.  If even one generation used knife
    and spoon in this manner, the fork, upon its belated appearance,
    would be used in a manner similar to the spoon.  Which is precisely
    the way we use it today.  Yet, in its function of anchoring food for
    cutting, the fork is held curve down; it is turned over while
    transferring the food from the plate to the mouth.  This distinctive
    way of using hte knife, fork, and spoon came into existence during
    hte late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, and thus is one
    more American idiosyncrasy arising from isolation during that
    period.

Interesting theory, no?

K.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exhibit 16th-17th century clothing Munich Catalog	Update
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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 15:29:53 -0500
Status: RO

Well, if Cassandra takes the money and buys the books, and gets 
them to Christian, and he puts them in his flight bag and hand 
delivers them to me in January...

margali

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:

> What aboud a fourth option?
> It won't work for everyone.......
> What aboud bringing it ?
> Around Newyear or so...
> :-) :-P :-P :-P
> 
> Greetings,
>        Deredere

> 



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Subject: Re: teeth Re: [h-cost] RE: behavior and cultures (was: Re: body typeperiods)
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Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 14:07:53 -0500
Status: RO

Robin wrote:
> But I'd be keen on knowing whether there's any, say, written evidence for
> the use of earscoops. You see those little spoon things in Viking caches,
> too -- I once heard someone surmise they were coke spoons. ;-) It's always
> been assumed they were for ear cleaning, but I don't know whether there's
> any reason to think that, or whether that's just someone's best guess
> that's been repeated for years.

At the Royal Ontario Museum the other day, I noticed they had some teeny
tiny little scoops in the Coptic Egypt display.  They said, however,
that the scoops were used for getting perfumed ointment out of jars.
This seems like a not-improbable use for such scoops.

I was also reading a book on needlework tools and accessories, and there
were many examples of stilettos -- spikes for poking holes in fabric for
eyelets, etc.  These were often found in collections of needlework
tools, and could be made of bone, metal, etc.  So that's a alternative 
possibility for the "toothpicks".

On another note, I believe earscoops are used in the present day by some
Asian cultures.  I used to share a house with a Malaysian guy who said
that he thought they were cool, and older relatives of his (father?
grandmother?) had or used them, and I think he might have mentioned that
you could pick them up in chinatown if you looked in the right place.

K.
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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 15:39:03 -0500
Status: RO

Happy dance!!!

The book got here;-)

the oblaten, and lebkuchen did too, but that is a different list ;-)

It is fantastic! It is also in german so I can see I will be 
spending quality time with my dictionary instead of my 
husband...he will just have to be understanding! grin.

First on the list is pp 22, item 3 - it is a mid 16th century 
shirt. Blackwork, cutwork, pulled threadwork and interesting 
hem/seam treatment. All the individual pieces have little rolled 
hems and are then held to the next piece with a fancy openwork 
stitch...I can't wait to find out more about it as I would love 
to recreate this shirt!

margali


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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 15:23:07 -0500
Status: RO

One of the sold ones is mine ;-)  Christian went and bought it 
for me and it is slllloooooowwwwwwly wandering it's way here from 
Laupheim ;-)  <happy dance> along with oblaten for making 
lebkuchen and marchpane. lebkuchen and spekulaas, and more 
goodies he won't tell me about. Fratz! My curiosity is killing me ;-)

margali

Cassandra Greer wrote:

> It was a great tour
> and since it was for a group of ladies from a textile institute in
> Switzerland, I think there were extra details given than aren't normally.
> Afterwards I talked to here about the catalog and stuff. I told her there
> were several people in the States and in England who are interested in
> getting it and she was apologetic about the credit card problem but there
> was nothing she could do about. She said 2000 were printed, 350 have been
> sold so far 6 weeks into the exhibit. She is talking with some of her
> contacts in the States about seeing if she can't get some of them to some
> museum shops in the States. There won't be an English translation since they
> don't have the resources for printing for such a relatively small audience.
> 
> She said she was going to send me something in English about the exhibit -
> hopefully it will come tomorrow by email and then I will pass it on.

> She also has my contact info to let me know by mail when other interesting
> things come up and then I will even be invited to premeres and stuff :)))
> 
> She gave me the website of the guy (Johannes Pietsch) who helped restore the
> pieces on display for this exhibit (and who would be teaching that class to
> make the men's lederkoller). I went to his site and he actually has the
> pattern for the one men's slit jacket pictured on my website.
> 
> http://www.kostuemforschung.de/1207.html
> 
> http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/PhotoAlbum4.html (the one on the top
> right)
> 
> And as a nifty detail from one of the religious embroidered things they had
> that show tulips (the wild, stripped kind): she said that tulips came from
> Turkey and the ones they valued were the skinny pointy kind with a pure
> color and didn't make it to central Europe until the mid 16th century. The
> wild ones actually came about due to a virus that infected the bulbs and
> resulted in all sorts of wird mutations -which stayed around and resulted in
> the tulip craze in Holland. This info helps date pieces because if they
> appear then it had to be after the intro date. :)))
> 
> As I remember details I'll try to post them.
> 
> (BTW as a sidenote, I told her I had scanned some of the pictures and put
> them online -the ones with patterns in the book so people would have a
> chance to get a small taste of what is in the book, and she said yeah -
> someone already 'told on me' someone who apparently didn't think it was
> appropriate that I did this. 'Oh that was you - you must be cassandra
> greer'.  So she had even been to the site. At any rate she was happy I did
> it and said I could keep it up since she is happy for all the advertisement
> for this that she can get - especially since the sole purpose for me putting
> it up was to get people interested in the book -since the museum website
> doesn't even mention it. As for the person who 'told on me', it would have
> been nice if they had said something to me first instead of being a 'tattle
> tail'.)
> 
> 
> Cass :)
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
> 



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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 22:44:10 -0500
Status: RO

You on the SCA-cooks list?
margali

> 
> I can point you at huge great documents on that one, if you really want to know: my main hobby is medieval cooking, costume is just a sideline  [:)] 
> 



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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 07:26:37 -0700
Status: RO

We're *everywhere*! <weg>
--maire/sue

M Traber wrote:
> 
> You on the SCA-cooks list?
> margali
> 
> >
> > I can point you at huge great documents on that one, if you really want to know: my main hobby is medieval cooking, costume is just a sideline  [:)]
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 14:26:11 GMT
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M Traber <Marilyn.Traber@spamcop.net> wrote :

> You on the SCA-cooks list?
> margali

I have been, but couldn't keep up with the traffic. Too much of it was either SCA-specific, or USA-specific, and thus classed as "noise" from my POV. Wonderful group of knowledgable people, though.

The Godecookery list is what I'm on: much more subject-specific.




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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cyclas engineering
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 10:31:03 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Chris,

If you bring the back side up higher rather than having it scooped, this
will help keep it in place.Another suggestion is to have most of the
neckhole curve on the front piece, and very little on the back piece.
This has helped keep cloaks & T-Tunics from strangling me.

If you add edging or piping on the neck edge that has something of a nap
(wool, etc.) this may help it "stick" to whatever's being worn
underneath.

Happy cycling,

Drea

On Mon, 2 Dec 2002, Chris Laning wrote:

> A couple of years ago I made myself a cyclas (early version of
> sideless surcoat, with armholes only about 12" deep) in dark blue
> linen, as something to wear over a lightweight undergown in hot
> weather.
>
> However, when I wear it, it slips around on my shoulders and won't
> stay centered -- sometimes slipping to one side, sometimes too far
> back which raises the front neckline too much (I _hate_ being choked
> by my clothing).
>
> I'm wondering how much of this is the fact that I made it out of
> linen, and how much of it might be an "engineering" problem. Did I
> make it too wide in the shoulders? It's wider at the top than my
> natural shoulder line, since the ones in paintings mostly seem to be
> cut that way. Is it too loose in the torso? Are there any
> modifications I can make to the cut that will help it to behave
> itself?
>
> I'd like to make a wool or brocade one soon as part of a new outfit,
> so I'd welcome suggestions.
>
> (Along with the other problem, I also have the impression that it
> makes me look fat, but I'm not sure whether that's true -- or if so,
> whether it can be helped. I'm your typical middle-aged pear shaped
> person <g>, a bit on the stout side.)
> --
> _________________________________________________________
> O    Chris Laning
> |     <claning@igc.org>
> +    Davis, California
> _________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 07:28:07 -0800
Status: RO

Some of us, who don't watch television, have no idea what "joAT" means.
Explanation, please?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:[h-cost] fluoride
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 09:34:43 -0600
Status: RO

I know this is completely OT... but I have to respond to this ..
My husband is a highly respected dentist in the US.  And we are working to get flouride 
included in the drinking water in the community he serves.  Why?  Because we live in a 
major metropolitan area but each smaller community in and around are served by different 
water companies... and the commmunity he works in has the highest incidence of dental 
carries in their children than any of the other surrounding close communities.  Now we are 
talking about being able to walk across the street and drinking water that is flouridated 
or drinking water in your own home (50 feet away) that may not be.
   Flouride occurs naturally in many water sources around the world.  And the quantities 
that it takes to help prevent dental carries can in no way change the flavor of the water. 
  We are talking micro-milli whatevers in content.  It would be like a spec of dust 
affecting the flavor of a swimming pool of water.

And I know of many studies done of bottled waters from around the world.. lots of them 
have naturally occuring flouride in higher levels than is introduced.  100% pure water, 
means it has had nothing added to it... not that everything that occurs naturally in it 
has been removed.  If you want as close to completely nothing but H2O, then drink 
distilled water.  It is flat flavored and almost seems to be missing something.
  Please understand, I am not trying to incite anything, just trying to educate a bit on 
the topic.
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec  3 10:57:38 2002
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Subject: Re: Re:[h-cost] fluoride
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 15:56:45 -0000
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 3:34 PM
Subject: Re:[h-cost] fluoride


> ... and the commmunity he works in has the highest incidence of dental
> carries in their children than any of the other surrounding close
communities.

I live in England, where we have had fluoride in the water for some time.  A
few years after it had been introduced, my dentist told me that he had
revisited his old dental school, and the department that taught dentistry
for children's teeth now had the problem that there were hardly any cases to
be seen, since most children's teeth were now strong and healthy.

Linda Walton.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cyclas engineering
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 10:09:42 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 3 Dec 2002, Drea Leed wrote:

<good advice about necklines, and then:>

> If you add edging or piping on the neck edge that has something of a
> nap (wool, etc.) this may help it "stick" to whatever's being worn
> underneath.

To which I add: Also consider the nap of the fabrics that are rubbing --
you may have a slight directional nap on either the cyclas lining or the
underdress that is forcing the other fabric to shift. Lining the cyclas
with a very smooth worsted or very smooth linen can help keep it from
crawling.

On one of my earliest outfits, when I was a starving college student, I
cut an underdress very economically by turning the fabric sideways. It was
a slightly fuzzy brushed cotton, rather flannel-like in texture. You
couldn't see that there was a directional nap, but I found it out the hard
way, when my fitted laced overdress twisted on my body. Within just an
hour or two, the bottom of the front lacing had spiraled around to my
side. It took me a while to realize that there was nothing wrong with the
overdress; it was just following the push of the underdress nap.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exhibit 16th-17th century clothing Munich Catalog
	Update
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 18:10:23 +0100
Status: RO

Hey if he will do this then I would do it too! Several people have already
done it through me but they are being shipped by boat....

Cass :)

PS seeeeee! Someone else knows how cool this book is too! :)))

> Well, if Cassandra takes the money and buys the books, and gets
> them to Christian, and he puts them in his flight bag and hand
> delivers them to me in January...
> 
> margali
> 
> Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
>> What aboud a fourth option?
>> It won't work for everyone.......
>> What aboud bringing it ?
>> Around Newyear or so...
>> :-) :-P :-P :-P
>> 
>> Greetings,
>>        Deredere
> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Construction stumper (puzzle)
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 09:15:24 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_4606421==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

It's been easily 6 years since I did any study in this area and 3 years 
since I've looked at a German pattern.  I'll answer what I can.

At 09:49 PM 12/2/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>My questions are:
>
>  1.      Is there a relationship between the pattern on the left and 
> right, or are these two different patterns for a goller?

Two different ones.  The pattern on the left is supposed to be a gollar 
with a standing collar. The right is for a gollar with a shawl (rolled) 
collar. Whether either of these will make the garments is subject to 
debate >; )

>2.      Which side is the front and which is the back?

The left side is the front on both figures.

>3.      Where does the oblong piece referred to in the text get inserted?

The figure on the left shows a fish eye dart being taken out which makes 
sense. The one gollar I've seen made from this particular pattern used a 
dart which was rounded. I think it's a translation error.

>4.      Why does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on separately, 
>but then says the standup collar is formed by inserting an oblong piece 
>between the ends that extended upward in front?

Same as above.

The provenance of those patterns is up for debate as far as I'm concerned. 
I remember something about Kohler being originally a 9 vol study that was 
condensed into 1 book. I'm sure someone with a better memory can fill in 
the blanks I'm missing.

Back to the 19th & 20th c. for me >; )


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis



--=====================_4606421==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
It's been easily 6 years since I did any study in this area and 3 years
since I've looked at a German pattern.&nbsp; I'll answer what I
can.<br><br>
At 09:49 PM 12/2/2002 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial">My questions
are:<br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial">&nbsp;1.</font><font face="Times New Roman, Times" size=1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font>Is there a relationship between the pattern on the left and right,
or are these two different patterns for a goller?</blockquote><br>
Two different ones.&nbsp; The pattern on the left is supposed to be a
gollar with a standing collar. The right is for a gollar with a shawl
(rolled) collar. Whether either of these will make the garments is
subject to debate &gt;; )<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial">2.</font><font face="Times New Roman, Times" size=1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font>Which side is the front and which is the back?</blockquote><br>
The left side is the front on both figures.<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial">3.</font><font face="Times New Roman, Times" size=1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font>Where does the oblong piece referred to in the text get
inserted?</blockquote><br>
The figure on the left shows a fish eye dart being taken out which makes
sense. The one gollar I've seen made from this particular pattern used a
dart which was rounded. I think it's a translation error.<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial">4.</font><font face="Times New Roman, Times" size=1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font>Why does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on separately,
but then says the standup collar is formed by inserting an oblong piece
between the ends that extended upward in front?</blockquote><br>
Same as above. <br><br>
The provenance of those patterns is up for debate as far as I'm
concerned. I remember something about Kohler being originally a 9 vol
study that was condensed into 1 book. I'm sure someone with a better
memory can fill in the blanks I'm missing.<br><br>
Back to the 19th &amp; 20th c. for me &gt;; )<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis <br><br>
<br>
</font></b></html>

--=====================_4606421==_.ALT--

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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 18:13:41 -0000
Status: RO

>I live in England, where we have had fluoride in the water for some time.
A
few years after it had been introduced, my dentist told me that he had
revisited his old dental school, and the department that taught dentistry
for children's teeth now had the problem that there were hardly any cases to
be seen, since most children's teeth were now strong and healthy.

Do you know any children who drink water regularly ?

My kids friends moan like mad if we give them water, I think this is just as
likely to be from aspartane as opposed to sugar in squashes & local drinks.

My kids don't drink squash (unless home made) due to intolerances & the fact
I'm not keen on aspartane in regular doses. I try & have then drink natural
juices & water & milk

When I was young everyone tended to have filled teeth, my dentist (in
England) now sayes these fillings were fashionable 'preventative' filling &
generally no needed. My kids have very few fillings. Then again I've not had
on in years either, it seems they are far less inclined to fill that
previously, I don't drink tap water, but I don't know how much water in veg
& tooth cleaning with fluride affect the teeth

Mel

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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 12:53:07 -0500
Status: RO



Michaela: 

Thanks for the link to your pix! It must be fun to have done that.

One last note -- I really loved the costumes they did for the little guy
that was, what? Napoleon's brother? Cousin? Or was it Napoleon? I forget, it
was just so funny to have a super-short Napoleon! And his costumes, like the
wedding outfit on your picture, were so well done!

Gail Finke


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Subject: [h-cost] Goller Construction (was: Construction Stumper)
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 14:50:19 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


Kohler, though he does have some valuable photos & patterns, should be
taken with a grain of salt (especially where he doesn't list his
references.  :)

I don't have a copy myself--could you post pics to a website, or
somewhere? I have a microfilm copy of a 16th c. German tailor's book,
that I'll look through for examples of goller cuts.

Thanks,

Drea


 On Tue, 3 Dec 2002, Gwyn Carnegie wrote:

> It's been easily 6 years since I did any study in this area and 3 years
> since I've looked at a German pattern.  I'll answer what I can.
>
> At 09:49 PM 12/2/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> >My questions are:
> >
> >  1.      Is there a relationship between the pattern on the left and
> > right, or are these two different patterns for a goller?
>
> Two different ones.  The pattern on the left is supposed to be a gollar
> with a standing collar. The right is for a gollar with a shawl (rolled)
> collar. Whether either of these will make the garments is subject to
> debate >; )
>
> >2.      Which side is the front and which is the back?
>
> The left side is the front on both figures.
>
> >3.      Where does the oblong piece referred to in the text get inserted?
>
> The figure on the left shows a fish eye dart being taken out which makes
> sense. The one gollar I've seen made from this particular pattern used a
> dart which was rounded. I think it's a translation error.
>
> >4.      Why does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on separately,
> >but then says the standup collar is formed by inserting an oblong piece
> >between the ends that extended upward in front?
>
> Same as above.
>
> The provenance of those patterns is up for debate as far as I'm concerned.
> I remember something about Kohler being originally a 9 vol study that was
> condensed into 1 book. I'm sure someone with a better memory can fill in
> the blanks I'm missing.
>
> Back to the 19th & 20th c. for me >; )
>
>
> Gwyn Carnegie
> University of California at Davis
>
>
>

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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 13:54:50 -0600
Status: RO




> 
> Message: 1
> From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>

> 
> Do you know any children who drink water regularly ?
> 
> My kids friends moan like mad if we give them water, I think this is just as
> likely to be from aspartane as opposed to sugar in squashes & local drinks.
> 
> My kids don't drink squash (unless home made) due to intolerances & the fact
> I'm not keen on aspartane in regular doses. I try & have then drink natural
> juices & water & milk
> 
> When I was young everyone tended to have filled teeth, my dentist (in
> England) now sayes these fillings were fashionable 'preventative' filling &
> generally no needed. My kids have very few fillings. Then again I've not had
> on in years either, it seems they are far less inclined to fill that
> previously, I don't drink tap water, but I don't know how much water in veg
> & tooth cleaning with fluride affect the teeth
> 
> Mel


Actually my children and grandchildren for that matter were/are given water to drink from 
infancy.  Adequate water is crucial to healthy development.
We simply did not give them any other option such as juice or milk when they would say 
they were thirsty. They received juice with breakfast, and milk with the other meals.

And what is squash? :D (here in the states it is considered a vegetable, you cook and eat 
it )
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: Opposite Direction Plaits? (WAS: Re: [h-cost] Eowyn Costume
  uploaded:) )
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 10:16:08 -0500
Status: RO

On 3 Dec 2002 00:26:00 +1300, "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:

>I learnt a very good trick from the make up team on Xena/JoAT:
>Make four french plaits, two outer that go round the hair line, and in
>opposite direction, two inner also alternating.

Do you mean one starting from the crown/hairline going to the nape of the 
neck and the other starting from the nape of the neck going to the 
crown/hairline, or one underbraided and one overbraided, or something else?

>Then you wrap the ends in the spaces between the rows. They flatten down
>very well and the rows are excellent for anchoring the pins through.


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 15:36:45 -0700
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Okay, I am with you up to this point.  
3.      Where does the oblong piece referred to in the text get
inserted?

The figure on the left shows a fish eye dart being taken out which makes
sense. The one gollar I've seen made from this particular pattern used a
dart which was rounded. I think it's a translation error.
Do I understand correctly that you think the dart should be more oval
shaped rather than sharp angles?


4.      Why does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on
separately, but then says the standup collar is formed by inserting an
oblong piece between the ends that extended upward in front?
Here I am confused.  I have successfully inserted a piece in the one on
the right to get a stand up collar, but the shape is not what I would
call oblong.   Do you think he intended this one to not have a stand up
collar (any collar at all) and just the shawl lapels?  I have also sewn
the one up on the left but the collar the way it is drafted sits very
oddly-shifts it too far back on the shoulders.  
And I am still confused where the oblong piece is intended to go if it
doesn't go in the one on the right.

The provenance of those patterns is up for debate as far as I'm
concerned. I remember something about Kohler being originally a 9 vol
study that was condensed into 1 book. I'm sure someone with a better
memory can fill in the blanks I'm missing.


 
Does anyone know anyone that has the original? 
I guess at least I can say I went through the exercise of trying to make
it 'the way they 'really did it', but in the end I will probably just
use my own pattern.




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style=3D'tab-interval:.5in'>

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0in 4.0pt'>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dnavy face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:navy'>Okay, I am with you up to this =
point. <span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;</span></span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>3.</span></font><font size=3D1><span =
style=3D'font-size:7.5pt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</span></font>Where does the oblong piece referred to in the text get =
inserted?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'><br>
The figure on the left shows a fish eye dart being taken out which makes =
sense.
The one gollar I've seen made from this particular pattern used a dart =
which
was rounded. I think it's a translation error.<br>
<font color=3Dnavy><span style=3D'color:navy'>Do I understand correctly =
that you
think the dart should be more oval shaped rather than sharp =
angles?</span></font><br
style=3D'mso-special-character:line-break'>
<![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]><br =
style=3D'mso-special-character:line-break'>
<![endif]><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>4.</span></font><font size=3D1><span =
style=3D'font-size:7.5pt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</span></font>Why does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on
separately, but then says the standup collar is formed by inserting an =
oblong
piece between the ends that extended upward in front?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dnavy face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:navy'>Here I am confused.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>I have successfully inserted a =
piece in
the one on the right to get a stand up collar, but the shape is not what =
I
would call oblong. </span></font><span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;</span><b
style=3D'mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><i =
style=3D'mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><font
color=3Dnavy><span =
style=3D'color:navy;font-weight:bold;mso-bidi-font-weight:normal;
font-style:italic;mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;</span></span></font></i></b><font =
color=3Dnavy><span
style=3D'color:navy'>Do you think he intended this one to not have a =
stand up
collar (any collar at all) and just the shawl lapels?<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>I have also sewn the one up on =
the left
but the collar the way it is drafted sits very oddly-shifts it too far =
back on
the shoulders.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; =
</span><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size=3D3 color=3Dnavy =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:navy'>And I am still confused where the =
oblong
piece is intended to go if it doesn&#8217;t go in the one on the =
right.</span></font><br>
<br>
The provenance of those patterns is up for debate as far as I'm =
concerned. I
remember something about Kohler being originally a 9 vol study that was
condensed into 1 book. I'm sure someone with a better memory can fill in =
the
blanks I'm missing.<br style=3D'mso-special-character:line-break'>
<![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]><br =
style=3D'mso-special-character:line-break'>
<![endif]><font color=3Dnavy><span =
style=3D'color:navy'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><b =
style=3D'mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><i
style=3D'mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy;font-weight:bold;
mso-bidi-font-weight:normal;font-style:italic;mso-bidi-font-style:normal'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></i></b></p>

<p style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size=3D3 color=3Dnavy =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:navy'>Does anyone know anyone that has =
the
original?</span></font><b><font size=3D2><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-weight:bold'> <font color=3Dnavy><span =
style=3D'color:navy'><o:p></o:p></span></font></span></font></b></p>

<p style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><b><i =
style=3D'mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><font
size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;
color:navy;font-weight:bold;font-style:italic;mso-bidi-font-style:normal'=
>I
guess at least I can say I went through the exercise of trying to make =
it &#8216;the
way they &#8216;really did it&#8217;, but in the end I will probably =
just use
my own pattern.<o:p></o:p></span></font></i></b></p>

<p style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><b><font size=3D2 face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-weight:bold'><br =
style=3D'mso-special-character:
line-break'>
<![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]><br =
style=3D'mso-special-character:line-break'>
<![endif]></span></font></b><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

</div>

</body>

</html>

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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Does anyone live near Warwick Castle??
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 15:42:53 -0700
Status: RO

Apparently there is a portrait of Anne of Cleves' sister Sybilla, the
Electress of Saxony in the 'Blue Boudoir' at Warwick Castle.  The
'information people' said they were not aware of any reproductions (I
have a drawing of it, but it isn't in color) of this portrait (it is by
Cranach, shows her standing in full "crany" dress with her son).


I would be beholden to anyone that can easily get there for a snapshot
(if they even let you do that).

Sg  :)

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Swaddling
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 23:07:41 +0000
Status: RO

Re recent conversations about swaddling - did you pick up this news 
story?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/2534113.stm

To summarise, researchers found that, when babies get to around 2 
months, parents often lay them to sleep on their fronts because they 
sleep better.  Laying babies on their back is recommended to prevent cot 
death. So they did a study with babies lying on their backs, swaddled or 
unswaddled, and monitoring breathing, REM etc.  They found that the 
swaddled babies woke less often and less fully.

I still can't picture a "specially designed cotton spandex swaddle", 
though!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Construction stumper (puzzle)-more questions
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 15:10:03 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_25755031==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 03:36 PM 12/3/2002 -0700, you wrote:

>Okay, I am with you up to this point.
>
>3.      Where does the oblong piece referred to in the text get inserted?
>
>The figure on the left shows a fish eye dart being taken out which makes 
>sense. The one gollar I've seen made from this particular pattern used a 
>dart which was rounded. I think it's a translation error.
>Do I understand correctly that you think the dart should be more oval 
>shaped rather than sharp angles?

It's whatever shape works best, honestly.
Draping is your friend. If you have a dress form, use a mid weight woven to 
make a mock up. Pin the CF, CB and then slit for the dart and play with it 
after getting the dimension for your form right. I do remember that the 
gollar on the left was over large as shown.

>4.      Why does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on separately, 
>but then says the standup collar is formed by inserting an oblong piece 
>between the ends that extended upward in front?
>
>Here I am confused.  I have successfully inserted a piece in the one on 
>the right to get a stand up collar, but the shape is not what I would call 
>oblong.   Do you think he intended this one to not have a stand up collar 
>(any collar at all) and just the shawl lapels?

Maybe. If you remove the insert and close, do you get a rolled collar? Give 
it a try on a dress form.

>I have also sewn the one up on the left but the collar the way it is 
>drafted sits very oddly-shifts it too far back on the shoulders.

Try working the pattern in half on a dress form and you'll find that you 
trim a bit off the back but also be aware that to get the right shape, it 
does sit a ways off the nape of the neck (which bugs me to no end).

>And I am still confused where the oblong piece is intended to go if it 
>doesn t go in the one on the right.

I have no idea. If you take out an oblong dart length wise on the standing 
collar, you get a rolled collar effect. I do think it was a translation 
error.  Personally, I stay away from Kohler, especially when it comes to 
technical details. I think Drea said mentioned that too.

>The provenance of those patterns is up for debate as far as I'm concerned. 
>I remember something about Kohler being originally a 9 vol study that was 
>condensed into 1 book. I'm sure someone with a better memory can fill in 
>the blanks I'm missing.

I think Drea has a copy of the Innsbruck manuscript (there are 4 pattern 
manuals from the period). I'd look at the pattern layouts for garment with 
collars from that period and a little later.

>Does anyone know anyone that has the original?

I haven't seen it. I believe it's German as well.

>I guess at least I can say I went through the exercise of trying to make 
>it the way they really did it , but in the end I will probably just use my 
>own pattern.

LOL  at least you didn't try to use Kohler's women's bodice from the 
period. I remember it was a big ol' mess too >; )


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis

--=====================_25755031==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 03:36 PM 12/3/2002 -0700, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="Times New Roman, Times" color="#000080">Okay,
I am with you up to this point.&nbsp; <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial">3.</font><font size=1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font>Where does the oblong piece referred to in the text get
inserted?<br>
<font face="Times New Roman, Times"><br>
The figure on the left shows a fish eye dart being taken out which makes
sense. The one gollar I've seen made from this particular pattern used a
dart which was rounded. I think it's a translation error.<br>
</font><font face="Times New Roman, Times" color="#000080">Do I
understand correctly that you think the dart should be more oval shaped
rather than sharp angles?</font></blockquote><br>
It's whatever shape works best, honestly. <br>
Draping is your friend. If you have a dress form, use a mid weight woven
to make a mock up. Pin the CF, CB and then slit for the dart and play
with it after getting the dimension for your form right. I do remember
that the gollar on the left was over large as shown.<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial">4.</font><font size=1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font>Why does he say the part round the neck is not sewn on separately,
but then says the standup collar is formed by inserting an oblong piece
between the ends that extended upward in front?<br><br>
<font face="Times New Roman, Times" color="#000080">Here I am
confused.&nbsp; I have successfully inserted a piece in the one on the
right to get a stand up collar, but the shape is not what I would call
oblong. </font> <font color="#000080"><b><i> </i></b>Do you think he
intended this one to not have a stand up collar (any collar at all) and
just the shawl lapels?&nbsp; </font></blockquote><br>
Maybe. If you remove the insert and close, do you get a rolled collar?
Give it a try on a dress form.<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font color="#000080">I have also
sewn the one up on the left but the collar the way it is drafted sits
very oddly-shifts it too far back on the shoulders.&nbsp;
</font></blockquote><br>
Try working the pattern in half on a dress form and you'll find that you
trim a bit off the back but also be aware that to get the right shape, it
does sit a ways off the nape of the neck (which bugs me to no
end).<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="Times New Roman, Times" color="#000080">And
I am still confused where the oblong piece is intended to go if it doesn
t go in the one on the right.</font></blockquote><br>
I have no idea. If you take out an oblong dart length wise on the
standing collar, you get a rolled collar effect. I do think it was a
translation error.&nbsp; Personally, I stay away from Kohler, especially
when it comes to technical details. I think Drea said mentioned that
too.<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>The provenance of those patterns is
up for debate as far as I'm concerned. I remember something about Kohler
being originally a 9 vol study that was condensed into 1 book. I'm sure
someone with a better memory can fill in the blanks I'm
missing.</blockquote><br>
I think Drea has a copy of the Innsbruck manuscript (there are 4 pattern
manuals from the period). I'd look at the pattern layouts for garment
with collars from that period and a little later. <br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="Times New Roman, Times" color="#000080">Does
anyone know anyone that has the original?</font><font size=2><b>
</b></font></blockquote><br>
I haven't seen it. I believe it's German as well.<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080"><b><i>I
guess at least I can say I went through the exercise of trying to make it
the way they really did it , but in the end I will probably just use my
own pattern.</i></b></font></blockquote><br>
LOL&nbsp; at least you didn't try to use Kohler's women's bodice from the
period. I remember it was a big ol' mess too &gt;; )<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis <br>
</font></b></html>

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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> Re recent conversations about swaddling - did you pick up this news
> story?
> 
> http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/2534113.stm
> 
> To summarise, researchers found that, when babies get to around 2
> months, parents often lay them to sleep on their fronts because they
> sleep better.  Laying babies on their back is recommended to prevent
> cot death. So they did a study with babies lying on their backs,
> swaddled or unswaddled, and monitoring breathing, REM etc.  They found
> that the swaddled babies woke less often and less fully.
> 
> I still can't picture a "specially designed cotton spandex swaddle",
> though!

Unfortunately, that means that they don't wake up when they *need* to 
wake up. It sounds like they need to do some population studies 
looking at long term effects of swaddling (ie regarding cot 
death/SIDS).

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: JoAT
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<<Thanks for the first-hand reports of the show.  But I thought some =
episodes were set in the Caribbean?  In which case the "many years out =
of date" doesn't wash.  But, I confess, I only watched it a couple of =
times--didn't find it nearly as entertaining as I had hoped from the =
promos.=20
Ann Wass>>

There were two 'types' of extras on this show: colonial which were of =
french/english descent, never did figure that one out.. white European =
anyway, and 'Natives' which were all the asian extras that coudl be =
found (Along with some translators as some did not have a good grasp of =
english).

East Indies, not West Indies:)=20

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume

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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2716.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">&lt;&lt;Thanks for the first-hand reports of the =
show.&nbsp;=20
But I thought some episodes were set in the Caribbean?&nbsp; In which =
case the=20
"many years out of date" doesn't wash.&nbsp; But, I confess, I only =
watched it a=20
couple of times--didn't find it nearly as entertaining as I had hoped =
from the=20
promos. <BR>Ann Wass&gt;&gt;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">There were two 'types' of extras on this show: =
colonial which=20
were of french/english descent, never did figure that one out.. white =
European=20
anyway, and 'Natives' which were all the asian extras that coudl be =
found (Along=20
with some translators as some did not have a good grasp of=20
english).</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">East Indies, not West Indies:) </FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D2><FONT lang=3D0=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D2><FONT lang=3D0=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">michaela</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D2><FONT lang=3D0 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><A=20
href=3D"http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce">http://homepages.ihug.co.n=
z/~thebruce</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://recital.tripod.com/costume">http://recital.tripod.com/cost=
ume</A></DIV></FONT></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jack of all trades, again
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 14:00:31 +1300
Status: RO

Margo, JoAT is short for Jack of All Trades, the short lived series to fill
in after Hercules finished.

> Thanks for the link to your pix! It must be fun to have done that.

It was:) It was really fun, and Stuart Devinie as Croque had such a dry wit.

> One last note -- I really loved the costumes they did for the little guy
> that was, what? Napoleon's brother? Cousin? Or was it Napoleon? I forget,
it
> was just so funny to have a super-short Napoleon! And his costumes, like
the
> wedding outfit on your picture, were so well done!

Yeah it was Vern Troyer as Napoleon:) That costume was just a fantastic
confection;) He really did look like a lolly all wrapped up in pink and
tinsel;)

One of his body doubles (actually he was on set a few times for second unit
as for close up work you just can't find a good double) was a two year old
toddler:) He was so cute when we were doing a scene (the American Football
scene I mentioned earlier) as he was so young he didn't really understand
the need to follow directions;)

michaela
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http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 17:44:34 -0800
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Hello all!

I have a male friend who lives just outside of Phoenix, who is looking for a
costumer to make him a men's Regency outfit.  Is there anyone on the list
who is located in Arizona (he'd be willing to travel as far as Tucson for
fittings etc.) who's good with male clothing of this period?

Please contact me off-list and I'll put you in touch!

Thanks,

Kendra

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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:52:03 -0500
Status: RO

I'm an Internet Member of the Metropolitan Museum, and they send email on
different events.  The Cloisters portion of the Met (which I have never yet
actually made it to)  was included in the email on Christmas events:
http://www.metmuseum.org/now_at_the_met_cloisters.htm
 There is a new section up on the Unicorn Tapestries
http://www.metmuseum.org/explore/Unicorn/unicorn_inside.htm
This includes a section entitled What to Wear to a Unicorn Hunt, and
includes some closeups and commentaries of the clothes:
http://www.metmuseum.org/explore/Unicorn/unicorn_clothing.htm
Rowena

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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 21:11:11 -0500
Status: RO


Hello all --

On a total tangent here -- I discovered something when looking at the
wonderful Swiss page Cass posted. When I looked at the picture of the
beautiful gowns, I noticed for the first time how much this style emphasizes
the curve at the small of the woman's back, which Robin Netherton has so
often reminded us is apparently very attractive to gentlemen. I guess I
haven't seen too many of these gowns in person or from the right angle --
let's face it, in films and on stage, the bust or the entire front view is
usually emphasized. But here you can see what a lovely curved shape these
gowns have in the back. Just a random thought --

Gail finke


> She gave me the website of the guy (Johannes Pietsch) who helped restore the
> pieces on display for this exhibit (and who would be teaching that class to
> make the men's lederkoller). I went to his site and he actually has the
> pattern for the one men's slit jacket pictured on my website.
> 
> http://www.kostuemforschung.de/1207.html
> 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net>
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 21:57:36 -0500
Status: RO

On Wednesday 27 November 2002 02:07 pm, Kirrily Robert wrote:
> Robin wrote:
>[text cut here]

> At the Royal Ontario Museum the other day, I noticed they had some teeny
> tiny little scoops in the Coptic Egypt display.  They said, however,
> that the scoops were used for getting perfumed ointment out of jars.
> This seems like a not-improbable use for such scoops.
>
> I was also reading a book on needlework tools and accessories, and there
> were many examples of stilettos -- spikes for poking holes in fabric for
> eyelets, etc.  These were often found in collections of needlework
> tools, and could be made of bone, metal, etc.  So that's a alternative
> possibility for the "toothpicks".
>
> On another note, I believe earscoops are used in the present day by some
> Asian cultures.  I used to share a house with a Malaysian guy who said
> that he thought they were cool, and older relatives of his (father?
> grandmother?) had or used them, and I think he might have mentioned that
> you could pick them up in chinatown if you looked in the right place.

I've seen people clean their ears with the ends of paper clips...it's not hard 
for me to imagine them using a small spoon designed (or even not designed) 
for the job.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:57:12 -0500
Status: RO

this book is to DIE FOR!!!
should we mention the scaled patterns in the back...my husband 
was looking at the lederkoller and thinking about the 2 sides of 
clothing weight leather in the barn...
and almost every page has a wonderful color picture of 
something;-) I almost feel like I have been there and seen the 
exhibit. The only thing I am seriously miffed about is we are 
going to Bavaria to visit Christian in the spring when ROb can 
get leave from his boat...and the exhibit will be closed ;-( <big 
pout>

So, you live anywhere near Gaertringen...? grin

margali

Cassandra Greer wrote:

> Hey if he will do this then I would do it too! Several people have already
> done it through me but they are being shipped by boat....
> 
> Cass :)
> 
> PS seeeeee! Someone else knows how cool this book is too! :)))
> 
> 
>>Well, if Cassandra takes the money and buys the books, and gets
>>them to Christian, and he puts them in his flight bag and hand
>>delivers them to me in January...
>>
>>margali



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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:58:43 -0500
Status: RO

I can understand that;-) I find it overwhelming and I am one of 
the serious oldtimers from the list!
margali

jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:

> M Traber <Marilyn.Traber@spamcop.net> wrote :
> 
> 
>>You on the SCA-cooks list?
>>margali
>>
> 
> I have been, but couldn't keep up with the traffic. Too much of it was either SCA-specific, or USA-specific, and thus classed as "noise" from my POV. Wonderful group of knowledgable people, though.
> 
> The Godecookery list is what I'm on: much more subject-specific.



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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 00:15:08 -0500
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<<<<<I can understand that;-) I find it overwhelming and I am one of
the serious oldtimers from the list!
margali>>>>>

    Oh, I remember you from there.  I got off it too, partly because of the
volume, but more because every time anybody said anything the only responses
were "replied to privately" or "refer to the Florilegeum".  It was like no
conversation or information was allowed.
    The SCA Humor list was hilarious, wonderful-----and unfortunately a
major source of virusii.
    Weather is down to 10 below again tonight.  F.  A couple of days ago it
was just above freezing and rained for 2 days steady.  Got out the heavy
coats today, and remembered that capes actually were meant to go over a
coat, not be just worn by themselves.
    A good cape will catch the drizzle and can be easily taken off when
entering a cool building or vehicle.  The coat underneath is still dry and
warm.
    Then there's the hood effect.  Put the thing up FIRST, not after it's
full of water or snow, and dumps it down your neck.
    The draped ones look lovely in pictures, but scoop the wind around your
head like a wind tunnel.  Cold!

Diane S.----hunting up my velvet dresses and skirts today, and a taffeta
petticoat underneath is pretty windproof too.

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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 23:11:52 -0700
Status: RO

Good lord, I don't know when you were on, but I've certainly never seen
a lack of info-sharing and conversation on that list.
Sometimes, I know folks refer to the Florilegium (very handy, that),
because some topics tend to occur, and re-occur, and re-re-occur, just
like they do here, and many times, the answers are already in a file
somewhere in the Florilegium.
To get this back from the dangerous shoals of talking too much about
sca-related stuff, and into the safer waters of costuming.....I note
that you're talking about cold weather.  It sounds almost like you're
combining costume and non-costume elements to stay warm.  Where are you,
by the way? We've had a couple of weeks of nothing but sub-freezing
temps and ice fogs.  Ugh.  Very dreary.  I've been starting on my winter
projects--I'm making a fitted gown for an upcoming competition, learning
tablet-weaving, and planning on getting around to making some garments
inspired by the ones in the Mannesse Codex (for next summer's tourney
season).  What's everyone else doing?
--sue

STRAIGHT wrote:
> 
> <<<<<I can understand that;-) I find it overwhelming and I am one of
> the serious oldtimers from the list!
> margali>>>>>
> 
>     Oh, I remember you from there.  I got off it too, partly because of the
> volume, but more because every time anybody said anything the only responses
> were "replied to privately" or "refer to the Florilegeum".  It was like no
> conversation or information was allowed.
>     The SCA Humor list was hilarious, wonderful-----and unfortunately a
> major source of virusii.
>     Weather is down to 10 below again tonight.  F.  A couple of days ago it
> was just above freezing and rained for 2 days steady.  Got out the heavy
> coats today, and remembered that capes actually were meant to go over a
> coat, not be just worn by themselves.
>     A good cape will catch the drizzle and can be easily taken off when
> entering a cool building or vehicle.  The coat underneath is still dry and
> warm.
>     Then there's the hood effect.  Put the thing up FIRST, not after it's
> full of water or snow, and dumps it down your neck.
>     The draped ones look lovely in pictures, but scoop the wind around your
> head like a wind tunnel.  Cold!
> 
> Diane S.----hunting up my velvet dresses and skirts today, and a taffeta
> petticoat underneath is pretty windproof too.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 22:17:05 -0800
Status: RO

I've finally finished my current project, which is based on the 1874-77
afternoon dress from _Patterns of Fashions_.  I used the skirt pattern from
that dress, and changed the bodice from an afternoon to a reception style.
I did have some train trauma, so I'll be reworking the skirt!

http://demode.tweedlebop.com/bustle.html

- Kendra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 23:50:56 -0700
Status: RO

Oooooh!
I gotta admit, I don't know nuttin about the clothing of your time
period, but it sure looks good!
How fun! And where_ever_ did you find the striped satin? That stuff was
completely cool.....
--sue

Kendra Van Cleave wrote:
> 
> I've finally finished my current project, which is based on the 1874-77
> afternoon dress from _Patterns of Fashions_.  I used the skirt pattern from
> that dress, and changed the bodice from an afternoon to a reception style.
> I did have some train trauma, so I'll be reworking the skirt!
> 
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/bustle.html
> 
> - Kendra
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exhibit 16th-17th century clothing Munich Catalog
	Update
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 08:19:41 +0100
Status: RO

When in spring? The exhibit might be extended to the middle of March

Cass :)

> this book is to DIE FOR!!!
> should we mention the scaled patterns in the back...my husband
> was looking at the lederkoller and thinking about the 2 sides of
> clothing weight leather in the barn...
> and almost every page has a wonderful color picture of
> something;-) I almost feel like I have been there and seen the
> exhibit. The only thing I am seriously miffed about is we are
> going to Bavaria to visit Christian in the spring when ROb can
> get leave from his boat...and the exhibit will be closed ;-( <big
> pout>
> 
> So, you live anywhere near Gaertringen...? grin
> 
> margali
> 
> Cassandra Greer wrote:
> 
>> Hey if he will do this then I would do it too! Several people have already
>> done it through me but they are being shipped by boat....
>> 
>> Cass :)
>> 
>> PS seeeeee! Someone else knows how cool this book is too! :)))
>> 
>> 
>>> Well, if Cassandra takes the money and buys the books, and gets
>>> them to Christian, and he puts them in his flight bag and hand
>>> delivers them to me in January...
>>> 
>>> margali
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 07:44:52 -0000
Status: RO

Well done. I shouldn't worry about you skirt getting trodden on whilst it is
a pain, it seems to be totally  unavoidable, unless you have your skirts too
high for authenticity which looks aweful. I used to be really devestated
every time it happened, but  now I've got very quick to recognise the tug on
a skirt stepped & swiftly back up to avoid damage :) and really good a
repairing the damage !

Mel

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 20:52:16 +1300
Status: RO

> I've finally finished my current project, which is based on the 1874-77
> afternoon dress from _Patterns of Fashions_.  I used the skirt pattern
from
> that dress, and changed the bodice from an afternoon to a reception style.
> I did have some train trauma, so I'll be reworking the skirt!
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/bustle.html


Oooh, love how you cut the darts into the stripes, and I think the black
sleeves with the stripes cuffs works very well indeed in bringing the skirt
and bodice to match:) Especially as I've seen a number of bodices that have
contrasting sleeves that appear to be made from the skirt bodyfabric:)

:) I also know someone who is going to absolutely love this as she has a mad
passion for black and white stripes in the bustle era;) I know yours are
cream but still;)

I really have to find a group here that focuses on an era besides quasi
medieval;) I just have no whre to where costumes from my favrouite era: late
1870s-1880s

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:14:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Kendra Van Cleave <kendrav@attbi.com> wrote: > I've finally finished my
current project, which is based on the 1874-77
> afternoon dress from _Patterns of Fashions_.  I used the skirt pattern from
> that dress, and changed the bodice from an afternoon to a reception style.
> I did have some train trauma, so I'll be reworking the skirt!
> 
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/bustle.html

COOL! That looks really lovely Kendra. The striped bodice is indeed gorgeous.
:-)

Nicole 

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Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exhibit 16th-17th century clothing Munich Catalog Update
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:25:27 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- M Traber <Marilyn.Traber@spamcop.net> wrote: > this book is to DIE FOR!!!
> should we mention the scaled patterns in the back...my husband 
> was looking at the lederkoller and thinking about the 2 sides of 
> clothing weight leather in the barn...
> and almost every page has a wonderful color picture of 
> something;-) 

HarHarHar may I smugly say that my friend in Aachen ordered one for me and
it'll be waitinmg for me when I visit them at Christmas. ;-)

Nicole - off in a couple of weeks to the annual Germany visit

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Does anyone live near Warwick Castle??
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:35:42 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Saragrace Knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > Apparently there is a
portrait of Anne of Cleves' sister Sybilla, the
> Electress of Saxony in the 'Blue Boudoir' at Warwick Castle.  The
> 'information people' said they were not aware of any reproductions (I
> have a drawing of it, but it isn't in color) of this portrait (it is by
> Cranach, shows her standing in full "crany" dress with her son).

While I can't get there easily before March, I went there just 3 weeks ago or
so. If you show me a drawing I may at least remember the painting, I have a
vague recollection.

Nicole

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Swaddling
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 17:05:15 +0000
Status: RO

I confess total ignorance when it comes to babies, but isn't a certain
amount of crying necessary for the healthy development of an infant's
lungs?

Arlys

On Tue, 03 Dec 2002 15:23:34 -0800 kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
> 
> > Re recent conversations about swaddling - did you pick up this 
> news
> > story?
> > 
> > http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/2534113.stm
> > 
> > To summarise, researchers found that, when babies get to around 2
> > months, parents often lay them to sleep on their fronts because 
> they
> > sleep better.  Laying babies on their back is recommended to 
> prevent
> > cot death. So they did a study with babies lying on their backs,
> > swaddled or unswaddled, and monitoring breathing, REM etc.  They 
> found
> > that the swaddled babies woke less often and less fully.
> > 
> > I still can't picture a "specially designed cotton spandex 
> swaddle",
> > though!
> 
> Unfortunately, that means that they don't wake up when they *need* 
> to 
> wake up. It sounds like they need to do some population studies 
> looking at long term effects of swaddling (ie regarding cot 
> death/SIDS).
> 
> Kat Russell
> <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Arizona costumer for hire?
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:22:20 -0700
Status: RO

Have him try Mathew Gnagy at Desert Torch Tailoring
http://www.deserttorch.com/-

I'd love to do it myself, but since I have a real job that limits my
time it is difficult for me to commit to a schedule.

Sg


>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Kendra Van Cleave
>Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 6:45 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Arizona costumer for hire?
>
>Hello all!
>
>I have a male friend who lives just outside of Phoenix, who is looking
for a
>costumer to make him a men's Regency outfit.  Is there anyone on the
list
>who is located in Arizona (he'd be willing to travel as far as Tucson
for
>fittings etc.) who's good with male clothing of this period?
>
>Please contact me off-list and I'll put you in touch!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kendra
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:28:13 -0600
Status: RO



I confess total ignorance when it comes to babies, but isn't a certain
amount of crying necessary for the healthy development of an infant's
lungs?

Arlys

HA HA HA HA HA HA!
You don't know much about babies is right.

(inside joke)

Kim

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:27:33 -0700
Status: RO

I missed the original post, but there is a wonderful book which gives
great close ups of what folks are wearing in the tapestries. The Unicorn
Tapestries by Adolfo Salvatore Cavallo-ISBN 0-87099-868-4.

I am working on a men's outfit for my husband (who swears he won't wear
it!!)  I shall prevail!

Sg


>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Rowena
>Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 6:52 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] What to Wear to a Unicorn Hunt
>
>I'm an Internet Member of the Metropolitan Museum, and they send email
on
>different events.  The Cloisters portion of the Met (which I have never
yet
>actually made it to)  was included in the email on Christmas events:
>http://www.metmuseum.org/now_at_the_met_cloisters.htm
> There is a new section up on the Unicorn Tapestries
>http://www.metmuseum.org/explore/Unicorn/unicorn_inside.htm
>This includes a section entitled What to Wear to a Unicorn Hunt, and
>includes some closeups and commentaries of the clothes:
>http://www.metmuseum.org/explore/Unicorn/unicorn_clothing.htm
>Rowena
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 14:10:56 +0000
Status: RO


Linda Thompson wrote:

>And what is squash? :D (here in the states it is considered a vegetable, >you cook and eat it )
-- 
I think we've been here before! To Britons, squash is a fruit concentrate which you drink diluted with water. The vegetable of that name isn't widely known here.





Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Does anyone live near Warwick Castle??
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 01:05:48 +1300
Status: RO

> --- Saragrace Knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > Apparently there is
a
> portrait of Anne of Cleves' sister Sybilla, the
> > Electress of Saxony in the 'Blue Boudoir' at Warwick Castle.  The
> > 'information people' said they were not aware of any reproductions (I
> > have a drawing of it, but it isn't in color) of this portrait (it is by
> > Cranach, shows her standing in full "crany" dress with her son).
>
> While I can't get there easily before March, I went there just 3 weeks ago
or
> so. If you show me a drawing I may at least remember the painting, I have
a
> vague recollection.

http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/victalb/2mill1.htm
mentions this painting, doesn't say anything about the costume but I thought
it might be of some help in some small way:)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume



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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 07:35:37 -0500
Status: RO

that is the problem...he is military and everything depends on 
his boat's deployment schedule. Me personally? I would chuck my 
job in a heartbeat and move to germany if I had a source of 
income, or rather france as I speak french [though i am learning 
to read and write in german as a side effect of helping christian 
with his english;-)] We are trying for march, as I miss good deep 
snow because connecticut is coastal and really doesn't get the 
type of snow I grew up with;-( and if that doesn't work out late 
april.
margali

Cassandra Greer wrote:

> When in spring? The exhibit might be extended to the middle of March
> 
> Cass :)



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Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute "Fashion" book arrived!!
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 11:33:16 -0600
Status: RO


 My copy of "Fashion" arrived yesterday. I got my copy through Barnes and
Noble website: the title there is "Evolution in Fashion" Cost  is $32.00 +
ship which is only $3.99 for standard ship; free if you order two or more
books.


Although not an essential purchase for those who own the 1980 "Evolution in
Fashion" or the 1989 "Revolution in Fashion", there are beautiful pics of
fashions from both those eras KCI has added to their collection since both
those exibitions.  Please restrain yourselves from literally drooling over
the matchless color pics throughout the 700+ pages of fashions, mostly
women's.

Lovers of the fashions of Worth, Poiret, Fortuny, and Vionnent should be
especially pleased. You will love or hate the late 20th fashion coverage,
depending on what you think of this era. There is, of course, an emphasis on
Japanese designers in the '80's through 2000 fashions shown, but there are
some really extreme "stuff" too!  I have posted a brief review on bn.com
which should appear by Friday.

I did omit mention in my review of the capsule "bibs" of designers and
houses, a terminology mini dictionary and the bibliography at the end of the
book.

An exhibition catalog is listed in the bibliography that apparently no
library owns and isn't listed as available on the KCI website.  It is
entitled "Charles Frederick Worth" -- an exibition of his work done by the
KCI in 2000.  If anyone knows more about this catalog, let me know.


Thanks,

Cindy Abel
brujne@creighton.edu

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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 07:00:40 -0500
Status: RO

well, i am beading a forepart - nothing too fancy, a cream 
fabric with a very square geometric an dlittle clusters of dots 
that were just begging to be beaded. i am using topaz colored 
beads so i can wear it with my favorite topaz earrings under a 
black outer bodice and skirt. I hope it will be done in time ;-(

Also, again off topic, anybody have any info on how christian can 
make a call to me from germany? i think the us prefix is '1', but 
does he dial just the '1' or is there a code to get an out of the 
country line to use?
margali, warm in ct - i have a woodstove;-)

Sue Clemenger wrote:

I'm making a fitted gown for an upcoming competition, learning
> tablet-weaving, and planning on getting around to making some garments
> inspired by the ones in the Mannesse Codex (for next summer's tourney
> season).  What's everyone else doing?
> --sue



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From: Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Teeth
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 20:43:27 -0800
Status: RO

Serendipitously, given the recent discussion of teeth, I just came
across this:
"To cleanse and make them white (ie teeth). Take the root of mallows and
rub
thy teeth and thy gums therewith. And after that take a rough cloth and
rub thy
thy teeth therewith. If thou washest thy mouth with water or with wine
that
titemall, that is spurge, is seethed in, the teeth shall never fall.
Knotgrass kneaded
and laid to the teeth is a good medicine"
>From MS 136 of the Literary Society of London.

I think the efficacy of these suggestions would depend very much on the
properties of the herbs involved. Rubbing your teeth, especially with an
alkaline
substance (if mallow is that) would probably help against against
plaque, but
wouldn't do much for calcified buildups.

So a little more on track, what sort of fabric would one use for a tooth
cloth?
I'd be inclined to say linen because rough wool would seem a bit fuzzy
to
put in your mouth.

Claire

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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 06:56:35 -0500
Status: RO

You might give it a try again, Gunthar cracked down on people. 
Now, you will get reffered to speciific web pages, stefan's 
floregelium or cariadocs miscellaney, and people will reply with 
information in list.  Still can be heavy volume. I get it at work 
so I have something to take my mind off the darker aspects of my job.
margali

STRAIGHT wrote:

> <<<<<I can understand that;-) I find it overwhelming and I am one of
> the serious oldtimers from the list!
> margali>>>>>
> 
>     Oh, I remember you from there.  I got off it too, partly because of the
> volume, but more because every time anybody said anything the only responses
> were "replied to privately" or "refer to the Florilegeum".  It was like no
> conversation or information was allowed.



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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:16:10 GMT
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote :

> --- Saragrace Knauf saragrace@earthlink.net>
> wrote: > Apparently there is a
> portrait of Anne of Cleves' sister Sybilla, the
> > Electress of Saxony in the 'Blue Boudoir' at Warwick Castle.  

> While I can't get there easily before March, I went there just 3 weeks ago
> or so.

Me too: same weekend as the medieval market. I did visit the Blue Boudoir, but it not being my period, I didn't take much notice :( From what I remember of layout, the average visitor couldn't get near any pictures, a photo would need special arrangements to get beyond barriers

If I can find my visitors guide, I'll see if there's a picture of the Boudoir at least. But that's two "if"s.




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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 20:10:56 -0800
Status: RO



Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Fri, 29 Nov 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>
> > I'd want to look at a survey of the earliest examples of dagging
> > before coming to any certain conclusions, but my impression has been
> > that _lined_ dags (whether appearing to be fabric-lined or fur-lined)
> > are relatively rare, and that the default is done in plain unlined
> > cloth. ...
>
> Everything Heather said in her post makes sense to me. I think someone
> would have to do a systematic comparison of representations of dags in art
> as well as in artifacts (with an eye to whether linings may have
> disintegrated) before getting much of an idea as to what came first. I
> personally would be interested in seeing the sequence of shapes of dags as
> well.
>

I don't know about chronological sequence, but I was looking at dags recently
for my new houppelande sleeves. Specifically I was looking for dags on lined
but not furlined sleeves. Alas, for my intended purpose I found essentially
two
kinds: furlined sleeves had very simple dags that were essentially parallel
slits
in the edge of the sleeve; complicated dags seemed to occur on only unlined
fabric. I think I managed to find one instance of a sleeve that didn't seem to
be
lined with fur and I don't think that had very complex dagging.
Admittedly, it wasn't a very exhaustive survey. I assumed at the time that the

motives behind this were simply the difficulty in dealing with small complex
shapes
and a lining, a difficulty I can now well attest to, having decided that
despite the
evidence I would go ahead and make oakleaf dags in my velvet lined with fine
silk sleeves. Sooooo much easier to just cut out the shapes and assume the
fulling of the fabric would keep them from fraying....

Claire

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Subject: [h-cost] Nicole,your wig guy....
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 12:04:05 +0000
Status: RO

Nicole,

Your wig guy is here in the UK isn't he?I tried to  track down  the 
archives on the H-List but couldn't find your post with the fellows 
details.Would you mind passing them on to me.

Thanks,

Marcus.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 11:51:50 +0000
Status: RO

Thats really lovely Kendra and well done!
The striped satin silk is a coup! Like Sue,I want to know where you got 
it - have been looking for something similar for pajama trews myself for 
months.
Congratulations.

Marcus.


On Wednesday, December 4, 2002, at 06:17  am, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> I've finally finished my current project, which is based on the 1874-77
> afternoon dress from _Patterns of Fashions_.  I used the skirt pattern 
> from
> that dress, and changed the bodice from an afternoon to a reception 
> style.
> I did have some train trauma, so I'll be reworking the skirt!
>
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/bustle.html
>
> - Kendra
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Subject: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 15:56:51 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:

http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
age14.shtml

from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
deploring this...

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Huge Costume pictures LOTR & TTT
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:09:42 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I should mention that there are a *lot* of huge pictures at the 

http://www.warofthering.net/

site, not just Arwen, for people interested in the costume content. 

best wishes
Stevie


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From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:12:55 -0600
Status: RO

Well, considering that it's supposed to represent fantasy clothing, who can
say what the "correct underpinnings" should be?

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 9:57 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings


Hi all,

There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:

http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
age14.shtml

from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
deploring this...

best wishes
Stevie

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 15:59:28 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote: > Hi all,
> 
> There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:
> 
> http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
> age14.shtml

What a lovely picture!

> from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
> deploring this...

That was a joke, wasn't it? 
I love that dress :-) Oh isn't fantasy wonderful.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:22:00 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 4 Dec 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:

> There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:
> 
> http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
> age14.shtml
> 
> from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
> deploring this...

The bra doesn't seem to be well-matched to the gown, either. Is it just
me, or is that dress lopsided on her bust?

Her face is exquisite. The poor fit of the dress actually detracts from it
in this photo.

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec  4 11:31:51 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:28:00 -0600
Status: RO

That is not a bra strap silly. :)

That is the underdress. You can see that there are three layers to this
dress. Two blue, one cream. The thing you are seeing is the top of the last
layer. :)

It is a loose dress, made to flow as she walks from what I can see. The
looser the better the flow if I remember from my drama days.

Sincerely,
Chiara
Ansteorra, Steppes

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 9:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings


> Hi all,
>
> There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:
>
> http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
> age14.shtml
>
> from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
> deploring this...
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Cass's Swiss Costume?-Was:I don't know what to head this
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:36:29 -0700
Status: RO

I missed the original post.  Could someone repost Cass's link?  I
assumed it was Kass McGann, but I think not?

Sg


>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Gail & Scott Finke
>Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 7:11 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] I dont' know what to head this
>
>
>Hello all --
>
>On a total tangent here -- I discovered something when looking at the
>wonderful Swiss page Cass posted. When I looked at the picture of the
>beautiful gowns, I noticed for the first time how much this style
emphasizes
>the curve at the small of the woman's back, which Robin Netherton has
so
>often reminded us is apparently very attractive to gentlemen. I guess I
>haven't seen too many of these gowns in person or from the right angle
--
>let's face it, in films and on stage, the bust or the entire front view
is
>usually emphasized. But here you can see what a lovely curved shape
these
>gowns have in the back. Just a random thought --
>
>Gail finke
>
>
>> She gave me the website of the guy (Johannes Pietsch) who helped
restore the
>> pieces on display for this exhibit (and who would be teaching that
class to
>> make the men's lederkoller). I went to his site and he actually has
the
>> pattern for the one men's slit jacket pictured on my website.
>>
>> http://www.kostuemforschung.de/1207.html
>>
>
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20021204155928.12144.qmail@web13304.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:29:47 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Nicole wrote, re my deploring Arwen's visible brastrap

> That was a joke, wasn't it?

Yes:-)

> I love that dress :-) Oh isn't fantasy wonderful.

Yes, both dress and fantasy are wonderful; I have some reservations
about providing Arwen with Glorfindel's part, though. I've known
gerbils more menacing than Liv Tyler...

best wishes
Stevie


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec  4 11:37:01 2002
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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 11:28:28 -0500
Status: RO

I'd say the dress neckline was not quite properly fitted or backed. 
So the bra strap is peaking out and the dress looks lopsided. 
Sometimes this happens if the wearer was fitted standing straight and 
then posed slightly slumped. But I doubt this is the case here.

I do like the different textures on the outfit. They are rich but 
still delicate.

Linda K-S

At 10:22 AM -0600 12/4/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>On Wed, 4 Dec 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>
>>  There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:
>>
>>  http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
>>  age14.shtml
>>
>>  from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
>>  deploring this...
>
>The bra doesn't seem to be well-matched to the gown, either. Is it just
>me, or is that dress lopsided on her bust?
>
>Her face is exquisite. The poor fit of the dress actually detracts from it
>in this photo.
>
>--Robin
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What to Wear to a Unicorn Hunt
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 11:39:42 EST
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In a message dated 12/4/2002 10:28:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
saragrace@earthlink.net writes:


> I am working on a men's outfit for my husband (who swears he won't wear
> it!!)  I shall prevail!
> 
> 

I think the key is making sure he has a good event to which to wear it!  I 
slaved for hours over my husband's chintz morning gown and waistcoat, and 
couldn't understand why he wasn't all that enthusiastic.  My boss remarked, 
"Does the term effiminate come to mind?"  But I, along with the milliners at 
Colonial Williamsburg, have adopted the saying, "Real men wear chintz."  And 
now my husband has willingly worn the gown to several events.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/4/2002 10:28:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, saragrace@earthlink.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I am working on a men's outfit for my husband (who swears he won't wear<BR>
it!!)&nbsp; I shall prevail!<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I think the key is making sure he has a good event to which to wear it!&nbsp; I slaved for hours over my husband's chintz morning gown and waistcoat, and couldn't understand why he wasn't all that enthusiastic.&nbsp; My boss remarked, "Does the term effiminate come to mind?"&nbsp; But I, along with the milliners at Colonial Williamsburg, have adopted the saying, "Real men wear chintz."&nbsp; And now my husband has willingly worn the gown to several events.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:49:05 -0000
Status: RO

>So a little more on track, what sort of fabric would one use for a tooth
cloth?
I'd be inclined to say linen because rough wool would seem a bit fuzzy
to
put in your mouth.



Linen was refered to in the Babbees book

Mel
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec  4 11:51:08 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 09:50:51 -0700
Status: RO

My guess is, since the gown neckline is so wide (nearly off her
shoulders), that the "bra strap", which looks to be flesh-toned, is
probably part of the underpinnings or interior construction of the gown
bodice.
The dress is lovely, but the neckline doesn't seem to fit her quite
right--almost as if it's a little too big/wide, or perhaps the metallic
trim (yum, for fantasy purposes! <g>) is too stiff?
Nice to know, though, that even very lovely people in lovely outfits can
have moments of gaposis! Somehow reassuring.....
--Sue, who'd *love* to look that nice, in an ill-fitting gown or not!
;-)

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 4 Dec 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> > There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:
> >
> > http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
> > age14.shtml
> >
> > from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
> > deploring this...
> 
> The bra doesn't seem to be well-matched to the gown, either. Is it just
> me, or is that dress lopsided on her bust?
> 
> Her face is exquisite. The poor fit of the dress actually detracts from it
> in this photo.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Does anyone live near Warwick Castle??
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:50:09 -0700
Status: RO

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The portrait of interest is the one on the left.  Of course I have no
idea if this is what it really looks like, but..  The more I try to
pursue artwork from secondary sources the more frustrated I get.times,
responsible artists and title are often incorrect...grrrrr.
 
Thanks for trying to help!!
 
http://www.saragrace.net/images/MiscUploads/sybillavancleeve.gif
 
Sg
 
 

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<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>The
portrait of interest is the one on the left. <span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;</span>Of course I have no idea if this =
is what
it really looks like, but&#8230;.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;
</span>The more I try to pursue artwork from secondary sources the more =
frustrated
I get&#8230;times, responsible artists and title are often =
incorrect&#8230;..<span
class=3DSpellE>grrrrr</span>.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>Thanks
for trying to help!!<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><a
href=3D"http://www.saragrace.net/images/MiscUploads/sybillavancleeve.gif"=
>http://www.saragrace.net/images/MiscUploads/sybillavancleeve.gif</a><o:p=
></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
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<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;
mso-no-proof:yes'>Sg<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec  4 11:52:04 2002
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 11:40:58 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

In an interview with the costume designer, she said she'd designed the
elven clothes to hang from the shoulders to the ground to give the elves a
more not-of-this-world feel.  This looks like an example of that
aesthetic.  Too bad...I think the neckline would have looked better if it
had been more fitted and supportive.

But check out the trim and embroidery!  YUM!

Drea

On Wed, 4 Dec 2002, chiara wrote:

> That is not a bra strap silly. :)
>
> That is the underdress. You can see that there are three layers to this
> dress. Two blue, one cream. The thing you are seeing is the top of the last
> layer. :)
>
> It is a loose dress, made to flow as she walks from what I can see. The
> looser the better the flow if I remember from my drama days.
>
> Sincerely,
> Chiara
> Ansteorra, Steppes
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 9:56 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:
> >
> > http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
> > age14.shtml
> >
> > from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
> > deploring this...
> >
> > best wishes
> > Stevie
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10212041019050.7762-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 17:10:19 -0000
Status: RO


Robin wrote:

> Is it just
> me, or is that dress lopsided on her bust?

Yes, I think it is. I wasn't able to see the film when it came out,
but I recently treated myself to the extended DVD which has some
costuming coverage, and the designer spoke of wanting to give some
drape around the neckline. I don't think it worked. It seems to come
from a sequence in which Arwen dramatically lets her cape slip from
her shoulders as she moves forward, which may have dragged the gown
out of shape.

best wishes
Stevie

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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 11:49:32 -0500
Status: RO

Well, it definitely hangs off the shoulder. but that spot, between 
the shoulder and the breast is a tough one to have stay put if there 
is little or no support in the underlying dresses. It may not be as 
visible when the actress is moving in the movie. And unlike 
recreation garments, theatrical garments only need to look good from 
farther away.

Linda K-S

At 11:40 AM -0500 12/4/02, Drea Leed wrote:
>In an interview with the costume designer, she said she'd designed the
>elven clothes to hang from the shoulders to the ground to give the elves a
>more not-of-this-world feel.  This looks like an example of that
>aesthetic.  Too bad...I think the neckline would have looked better if it
>had been more fitted and supportive.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exhibit 16th-17th century clothing Munich Catalog
	Update
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:12:09 +0100
Status: RO

> with his english;-)] We are trying for march, as I miss good deep
> snow because connecticut is coastal and really doesn't get the
> type of snow I grew up with;-( and if that doesn't work out late
> april.
Hmm well, you are most likely not going to find good deep snow here! unless
you go skiing and depending on the winter (it has only snowed once here -
beginning of Nov and none of it stayed) I'm not sure what' going on in the
mountains right now but none of my friends have gone skiing yet...

Anyway even if the exhibit is over you could probably make an appointment
with Birgitt to have her show you things :)

Tja...

Cass :)

> 
> Cassandra Greer wrote:
> 
>> When in spring? The exhibit might be extended to the middle of March
>> 
>> Cass :)
> 
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cass's Swiss Costume?-Was:I don't know what to head
	this
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:12:38 +0100
Status: RO

Uhm, Gail replied to my post (I'm a Cass...) but I'm not sure what gowns she
is refering to since my link is to several pictures - of doublets (which are
Dutch/German).

Cass :)

> I missed the original post.  Could someone repost Cass's link?  I
> assumed it was Kass McGann, but I think not?
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of Gail & Scott Finke
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 7:11 PM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: [h-cost] I dont' know what to head this
>> 
>> 
>> Hello all --
>> 
>> On a total tangent here -- I discovered something when looking at the
>> wonderful Swiss page Cass posted. When I looked at the picture of the
>> beautiful gowns, I noticed for the first time how much this style
> emphasizes
>> the curve at the small of the woman's back, which Robin Netherton has
> so
>> often reminded us is apparently very attractive to gentlemen. I guess I
>> haven't seen too many of these gowns in person or from the right angle
> --
>> let's face it, in films and on stage, the bust or the entire front view
> is
>> usually emphasized. But here you can see what a lovely curved shape
> these
>> gowns have in the back. Just a random thought --
>> 
>> Gail finke
>> 
>> 
>>> She gave me the website of the guy (Johannes Pietsch) who helped
> restore the
>>> pieces on display for this exhibit (and who would be teaching that
> class to
>>> make the men's lederkoller). I went to his site and he actually has
> the
>>> pattern for the one men's slit jacket pictured on my website.
>>> 
>>> http://www.kostuemforschung.de/1207.html
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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In a message dated 12/3/2002 12:13:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:


> But that's exactly the point of theatre/tv it shouldn't be a slave to 
> historical correctness as that is not it's purpose.

To begin with, it's NOT the point of thetre/tv to be wrong. 

If the change in period has a purpose or somehow enhances the concept, then 
so be it. But if it's wrong just because someone doesn't like a high waisted 
gown, then pooey on it. Like "Bram Stoker's Dracula"....it's just bad 
costuming for no reason whatsoever. All those designs could have existed in 
their proper period and form and not only have been lovely but also correct. 
This is the exact comment made about the show we're talking about now [which 
I haven't seen, BTW]. Changing things for no reason is just bad costuming. 
Especially if they flash the date in 10' tall numbers on the screen or the 
characters refer to historical events.

I'm no nut for historical accuracy, as you all should know by now. But just 
plain ignoring the period is not my cup of tea either. Lavish displays of 
cluelessness are just embarrassing!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/3/2002 12:13:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">But that's exactly the point of theatre/tv it shouldn't be a slave to historical correctness as that is not it's purpose.</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
To begin with, it's NOT the point of thetre/tv to be wrong. <BR>
<BR>
If the change in period has a purpose or somehow enhances the concept, then so be it. But if it's wrong just because someone doesn't like a high waisted gown, then pooey on it. Like "Bram Stoker's Dracula"....it's just bad costuming for no reason whatsoever. All those designs could have existed in their proper period and form and not only have been lovely but also correct. This is the exact comment made about the show we're talking about now [which I haven't seen, BTW]. Changing things for no reason is just bad costuming. Especially if they flash the date in 10' tall numbers on the screen or the characters refer to historical events.<BR>
<BR>
I'm no nut for historical accuracy, as you all should know by now. But just plain ignoring the period is not my cup of tea either. Lavish displays of cluelessness are just embarrassing!</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:20:29 -0700
Status: RO

I'd like to see them all! Can you repost your link?

Sg


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Subject: [h-cost] How do they do those long feet:wasHuge Costume pictures LOTR & TTT
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:06:11 -0700
Status: RO

http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/imag
e9.shtml


How do you suppose they do those feet?  Do you think they just make up
the feet for special shots or does the actor have to wear them all the
time 'just in case' the feet get in the picture.  I would be falling all
over myself. 

 Waaaaa-I want to work on costumes for a living!!  In my other voice "No
I don't, making costumes for people is a thankless job.......You have to
make all sorts of mundane crap along with the fun stuff......"  I hate
Los Angeles and most actors...

Schizo Sg


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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:25:29 +0100
Status: RO

Here it is again

http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/PhotoAlbum4.html

So far I have arranged for 10 books to be sent

Cass :)

> I'd like to see them all! Can you repost your link?
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do they do those long feet:wasHuge Costume
	pictures LOTR & TTT
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 17:34:40 +0000
Status: RO

Saragrace wrote:

>
http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/image9.shtml


>How do you suppose they do those feet?  Do you think they just make up
>the feet for special shots or does the actor have to wear them all the
>time 'just in case' the feet get in the picture.  I would be falling all
>over myself. 

I've read that the actors had to have many pairs of prosthetic feet. In my opinion, the hobbits' feet aren't hairy enough; it's supposed to be thick like head hair.

 

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ethnic Eating and cold weather
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 12:55:11 -0500
Status: RO

    I'm in rural, hilly, southwest NYS.  We're just a few miles outside the
lake effect.  If you look at a US climate map, you'll see a little purple
circle in this area----that's me.  It's colder than most of the rest of the
state, and the frost free season is about 2 weeks shorter on each end.
     I go in and out, somehow a long time ago I tried making velvet and
velour skirts to put on over the top to go outside, and liked it a lot.
    Um----my idea of "housedress" probably isn't most people's.  I don't fit
in the T shirt and jeans crowd, never did.  I like fancy dresses, always
have.  Learned to sew before I went to kindergarten, (mumble, mumble) years
ago.  Never stopped.
    Of course, then I learned to crochet lace, and knit, and tat, and weave,
and spin-------you get the idea.
     A lot of ---I'm trying to figure out how to put this exactly---country
style historical clothes, "costumes", are very practical for life in the
country.  That's what they were, and they still work.

Smiles,
Diane S. -----it's up to 20F today!
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
that you're talking about cold weather.  It sounds almost like you're
combining costume and non-costume elements to stay warm.  Where are you,
by the way? We've had a couple of weeks of nothing but sub-freezing
temps and ice fogs.  Ugh.  Very dreary.  I've been

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:42:06 -0800
Status: RO

Thanks for all the positive feedback on my dress!

I found the striped satin on ebay, amazingly enough -- the seller is
michelle@tennenjobs.com, who always has amazing fabric bits and pieces (most
of them pretty pricey, although mine was a Buy It Now for $40 -- 2 yards, 50
or 60" wide).  I think it is originally an upholstery fabric, but it worked
just fine for my purposes!

- Kendra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exhibit 16th-17th century clothing Munich Catalog	Update
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 12:43:52 -0500
Status: RO

Well, we do intend to hit the museum no matter what.. I will be 
making notes about specific questions to take along;-)

Christian has a freind with a wellnessfarm that we may spend some 
time at and he says they tend to have snowcover;-)
margali

Cassandra Greer wrote:

>>with his english;-)] We are trying for march, as I miss good deep
>>snow because connecticut is coastal and really doesn't get the
>>type of snow I grew up with;-( and if that doesn't work out late
>>april.
>>
> Hmm well, you are most likely not going to find good deep snow here! unless
> you go skiing and depending on the winter (it has only snowed once here -
> beginning of Nov and none of it stayed) I'm not sure what' going on in the
> mountains right now but none of my friends have gone skiing yet...
> 
> Anyway even if the exhibit is over you could probably make an appointment
> with Birgitt to have her show you things :)
> 
> Tja...
> 
> Cass :)



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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 09:58:10 -0700
Status: RO

You know, I think I've actually seen that one in one of my costume or
art books.  I'll try to find it....
--sue
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:42:57 -0800
Status: RO

Good point -- maybe I should just add a skirt lifter?  Hmmm!  I'll have to
inspect the skirt to see how bad the damage really is (I haven't had the
heart to look at it yet).

- Kendra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: 1874-77 evening reception dress


> Well done. I shouldn't worry about you skirt getting trodden on whilst it
is
> a pain, it seems to be totally  unavoidable, unless you have your skirts
too
> high for authenticity which looks aweful. I used to be really devestated
> every time it happened, but  now I've got very quick to recognise the tug
on
> a skirt stepped & swiftly back up to avoid damage :) and really good a
> repairing the damage !
>
> Mel

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:48:19 -0800
Status: RO

Actually, cutting the darts into the stripes was pure luck!  I did try to
match the seams pretty carefully, although the center front/side front seam
got messed up (the cream stripe there is narrower than it should have
been -- I mistakenly looked at the center front opening when I went to match
the edges!).

- Kendra
----- Original Message -----
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: 1874-77 evening reception dress


> Oooh, love how you cut the darts into the stripes, and I think the black
> sleeves with the stripes cuffs works very well indeed in bringing the
skirt
> and bodice to match:) Especially as I've seen a number of bodices that
have
> contrasting sleeves that appear to be made from the skirt bodyfabric:)

<snip>

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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 09:35:52 -0800
Status: RO


> I confess total ignorance when it comes to babies, but isn't a certain
> amount of crying necessary for the healthy development of an infant's
> lungs?

Yes. That may be one of the reasons why babies sometimes cry for no 
apparent reason that anyone can figure out. (But then they also cry 
when they're over-tired, over-stimulated and over-full.)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:56:58 -0700
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I am making this for Estrella Wars.  My problem 'child'  is a little
more than most.  He thinks dressing up at all is very stupid, has never
been to an event to know otherwise, and only promised to go if it was
under cover of darkness!!
 
Thank you for the encouragement though!
 
Sg
 
 

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FAMILY=3DSANSSERIF><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I am making this =
for
Estrella Wars.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>My problem =
<span
class=3DGramE>&#8216;child&#8217; <span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;</span>is</span>
a little more than most.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; =
</span>He thinks
dressing up at all is very stupid, has never been to an event to know
otherwise, and only promised to go if it was under cover of =
darkness!!<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Thank you for the encouragement =
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 11:56:12 -0600
Status: RO

Wow! It looks just great! I really need an instant transporter so I can
pop over and see everyone's efforts in person because I strongly suspect
they look even better in the....er....fabric than they do in pics. I love
how you used that stripe effect, that's brilliant.


Karen

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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 17:56:24 -0000
Status: RO

>Good point -- maybe I should just add a skirt lifter?

I have several & I've made a repro (see www.chatelaines.co.uk) but I still
dosen't stop it completly unfortunatly

Mel

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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Does anyone live near Warwick Castle??
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 11:27:28 -0700
Status: RO

Yes, I had come across that too after looking for it on the
internet-that is the site that led me to contact Warwick.  I have
several costume books that mention it, but no good pictures-just that
outline I posted. 

The hunt for artwork is rather fun!

Sg



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] How do they do those long feet:wasHuge Costumepictures LOTR & TTT
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 11:34:24 -0700
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> In my opinion, the hobbits' feet aren't hairy enough; it's supposed to
be thick like head hair.


Yes, but it was probably too gross for your average movie goer!!

SG

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In a message dated 12/4/2002 12:18:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:


> . But if it's wrong just because someone doesn't like a high waisted gown, 
> then pooey on it. Like "Bram Stoker's Dracula"....it's just bad costuming 
> for no reason whatsoever

Thank you!  You said what was in my mind, but I could not figure out how to 
say it succinctly and eloquently.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/4/2002 12:18:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, AlbertCat@aol.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">. But if it's wrong just because someone doesn't like a high waisted gown, then pooey on it. Like "Bram Stoker's Dracula"....it's just bad costuming for no reason whatsoever</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
Thank you!&nbsp; You said what was in my mind, but I could not figure out how to say it succinctly and eloquently.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec  4 13:49:51 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 18:48:15 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > My guess is, since the gown
neckline is so wide (nearly off her
> shoulders), that the "bra strap", which looks to be flesh-toned, is
> probably part of the underpinnings or interior construction of the gown
> bodice.

Yep yep yep. My guess too. The gown looks 'mounted' on an under-something, the
front of the gown looks semi-stiff to me. It doesn't look like a 'bra'.

> The dress is lovely, but the neckline doesn't seem to fit her quite
> right--almost as if it's a little too big/wide, or perhaps the metallic
> trim (yum, for fantasy purposes! <g>) is too stiff?

I beg to differ, I actually liked the fact the neckline looked a bit 'odd',
then again this gown happens to be my alltime favourite of all the elven gowns.
(gosh do I HATE galadrial's white polyestery dress  :-)

> --Sue, who'd *love* to look that nice, in an ill-fitting gown or not!
> ;-)

YES!!! me too! While Miss Tyler comes over in interviews as not quite that
bright in the brains department, I don't care, she is SOOOOOOOOO lovely.

Nicole - le sigh, le very melodramatic longing sigh.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 19:03:20 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote: >
> Yes, both dress and fantasy are wonderful; I have some reservations
> about providing Arwen with Glorfindel's part, though. I've known
> gerbils more menacing than Liv Tyler...

Yeah but that's not the point in a costume, is it?

I don't like what they did with the character of Arwen, I much prefer to see
goodlooking males on screen than females, and eventhough she is mightily lovely
and even I drool, I would have much preferred Glorfindel too, and even worse, I
heard nothing of Elrohir and Elladan! *screams* Oh how I love the elven
grey-eyed twins, but nevermind, it still isn't the point here *laughs* not even
that I much prefer the race of men to the race of elves, the latter are SO
boring. Bah! Too perfect. ;-)

Nicole

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nicole,your wig guy....
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 19:11:24 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- marcus findlay-arthur <marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net> wrote: > Nicole,
> 
> Your wig guy is here in the UK isn't he?I tried to  track down  the 
> archives on the H-List but couldn't find your post with the fellows 
> details.Would you mind passing them on to me.

No problem: Derek Easton, he has a little website now with the contact details
on it:

http://www.derekeastonwigs.co.uk/

Nicole


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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:38:14 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:43 PM -0800 12/4/02, Claire Clarke wrote:
>Serendipitously, given the recent discussion of teeth, I just came
>across this:
>"To cleanse and make them white (ie teeth). Take the root of mallows and
>rub
>thy teeth and thy gums therewith. And after that take a rough cloth and
>rub thy
>thy teeth therewith. If thou washest thy mouth with water or with wine
>that
>titemall, that is spurge, is seethed in, the teeth shall never fall.
>Knotgrass kneaded
>and laid to the teeth is a good medicine"
>>From MS 136 of the Literary Society of London.
>
>I think the efficacy of these suggestions would depend very much on the
>properties of the herbs involved. Rubbing your teeth, especially with an
>alkaline
>substance (if mallow is that) would probably help against against
>plaque, but
>wouldn't do much for calcified buildups.
>
>So a little more on track, what sort of fabric would one use for a tooth
>cloth?
>I'd be inclined to say linen because rough wool would seem a bit fuzzy
>to
>put in your mouth.

When Giraldus Cambrensis describes 12th century Welsh tooth care, he 
evidently specifically mentions rubbing them with woolen cloths. 
("Evidently" because all I have access to at the moment is an English 
translation, so I can't double-check the specific wording of the 
original Latin.)  He also describes cleaning the teeth with hazel 
twigs.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:41:54 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 12/4/2002 12:59:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
seamstrix@juno.com writes:


> Wow! It looks just great!

I wanna see!!!!! And I deleted the original post. Would someone be so 
kind.......

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/4/2002 12:59:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, seamstrix@juno.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Wow! It looks just great!</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I wanna see!!!!! And I deleted the original post. Would someone be so kind.......</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] OT: British food question
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 16:43:27 -0500
Status: RO



Sorry to bother the list, but this is the only place I know to ask this
question. My daughter is reading a British book and ran across a term she
didn't know. Having read many British children's books myself, I am
surprised to find that I don't know the answer. So here goes: what is
"potted meat"? Is it like Spam, or something completely different?

Private replies fine, of course.

Gail Finke, 
Cincinnati, USA

PS: And do you really not eat squash, the vegetable? We have many different
kinds, from the ubiquitous zucchini squash to yellow squash (that's it's
name, not a description), orange butternut squash, green acorn squash, and
other more exotic kinds. And of course, pumpkins.

 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 15:14:23 -0500
Status: RO

If you look toward the left side of the monitor, you can see what definitely
looks like a bra strap.

But it IS a gorgeous dress!

Dianne

studying that beading on the sleeves....
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings


> --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote: > Hi all,
> >
> > There is a huge picture of Arwen in blue at:
> >
> > http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/im
> > age14.shtml
>
> What a lovely picture!
>
> > from which you will note a bra strap. I think I speak for us all in
> > deploring this...
>
> That was a joke, wasn't it?
> I love that dress :-) Oh isn't fantasy wonderful.
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teeth
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 14:28:12 -0800
Status: RO

My grand-daughter and I experimented this last summer and found that
medium-grade linen works pretty well.  (Wool just might work better, though.
Didn't even think about it probably because of the "fuzzy" concept.)  We
were also using a high-alkaline powder dentifrice I make.  It has a slight
but dissolvable grit to it.

Bear in mind that if one uses any cleanser that will counter the acid found
in most foods (and acid is what eats tooth enamel) on a regular basis _and_
uses a scrubbing method (not just a liquid swished around), plaque won't
build up so easily.

Scrubbing with the end of a twig works surprisingly well, too.  For those
who've never tried it, you have to chew the end into a "paintbrush" form to
make this really work.  Just takes a few chomps and it's ready to use.
(Don't make it too soft or it won't work as well.)  And it's _disposable_
reducing the occurrence of toothbrush-as-bacterial-breeding-ground problems.

The advantage to the twig method is that it gets into crevices and between
teeth better than any cloth can.  (Memories of sassafras twigs from
childhood come to the surface.  No, I had a regular toothbrush.  I just like
sassafras.)

(Okay, so the obligatory costume content wasn't here.  At least I mentioned
fibers in a comparative sense.  :-)  (Yes, I'm being silly here...))

Going back to "lurk" mode,
Brenna


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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 14:16:14 -0800
Status: RO

Heather writes:
> When Giraldus Cambrensis describes 12th century Welsh tooth care, he
> evidently specifically mentions rubbing them with woolen cloths.
> ("Evidently" because all I have access to at the moment is an English
> translation, so I can't double-check the specific wording of the
> original Latin.)  He also describes cleaning the teeth with hazel
> twigs.

Which brings us full circle back to Shakespeare in Love with Gwyneth 
Paltrow using a twig to clean her teeth. ;)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 14:20:00 -0800
Status: RO

 
> Sorry to bother the list, but this is the only place I know to ask
> this question. My daughter is reading a British book and ran across a
> term she didn't know. Having read many British children's books
> myself, I am surprised to find that I don't know the answer. So here
> goes: what is "potted meat"? Is it like Spam, or something completely
> different?

Potted meats aren't just British.

We have potted meats too: deviled ham, deviled chicken, spam, and 
others I grab every once in a while to keep in the car for "emergency 
protein source."

> PS: And do you really not eat squash, the vegetable? We have many
> different kinds, from the ubiquitous zucchini squash to yellow squash
> (that's it's name, not a description), orange butternut squash, green
> acorn squash, and other more exotic kinds. And of course, pumpkins.

And we have the occasional British squash such as Ribena. (Yum. My 
favorite, although you have to hunt to find it, usually only in 
specialty stores and only the concentrate.)

Mostly we just call ours "juice".

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec  4 17:32:04 2002
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 23:27:11 +0000
Status: RO

Nicole thanks for the wig fellow's link.

Marcus.

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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 22:40:38 -0000
Status: RO

On 4 Dec 2002 at 16:43, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Sorry to bother the list, but this is the only place I know to ask
> this question. My daughter is reading a British book and ran across a
> term she didn't know. Having read many British children's books
> myself, I am surprised to find that I don't know the answer. So here
> goes: what is "potted meat"? Is it like Spam, or something completely
> different?

A term which hasn't been in common use for a while 
over here, either. I believe from context that it refers 
to something softer than Spam: more like a meat 
paste, to be spread in sandwiches. Checking books, 
Mrs Beeton tells me nothing, but other "traditional" 
recipes imply that it involves cooked meat, chopped 
very finely and mashed with butter and spices. The 
result is stored in a pot, with a layer of melted butter 
poured over the top to seal it.


> PS: And do you really not eat squash, the vegetable? We have many
> different kinds, from the ubiquitous zucchini squash to yellow squash
> (that's it's name, not a description), orange butternut squash, green
> acorn squash, and other more exotic kinds. And of course, pumpkins.

I think what you call zuchinni are what we call 
courgettes: and while I know they're related, I 
wouldn't add "squash" to the name any more than I 
would to that of a cucumber or a marrow. We have 
pumpkins. Butternut "squash", with that name, are in 
the "exotic" section of the supermarkets, along with 
other gourds.

If we say "squash", we'd think first of the drink. Not a 
vegetable.



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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 22:40:37 -0000
Status: RO

On 4 Dec 2002 at 14:20, kat@grendal.rain.com 
wrote:

> And we have the occasional British squash such as Ribena. (Yum. My
> favorite, although you have to hunt to find it, usually only in
> specialty stores and only the concentrate.)
> 
> Mostly we just call ours "juice".

Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange 
squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange 
flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C 
to convince you it's healthy.

Still, it helps drown the taste of the fluoride in the tap 
water :)





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:30:28 -0500
Status: RO

chiara wrote:
> That is not a bra strap silly. :)
> 
> That is the underdress. You can see that there are three layers to this
> dress. Two blue, one cream. The thing you are seeing is the top of the last
> layer. :)

	Actually, it is a bra strap. We thought for a while it 
might have been tape - but it's not. And the dress is 
actually steel grey (they do a lot of color tweaking). She 
has three dresses that are this same 2 layered style, with 
variations on the sleeves; and another 2 that are very 
similar but only single layer. This is apparently her 
"Human" style of clothing as opposed to her Elvish styles.

	BTW, Stevie, you didn't see it in the movie because it's 
not a dress from FotR, it's briefly in the new one. There 
have been a few pics of it around including the one where 
she's dropping her cape.


	-Judy Mitchell
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do they do those long feet:wasHuge Costume	pictures
 LOTR & TTT
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:43:40 -0500
Status: RO

The hobbit feet are all prosthetic slipons that are glued to 
them - took about an hour and a half each day. Each pair was 
nly good for maybe 3 wears at most and then needed 
replacing. Ian Holm (Bilbo) hated his and insisted they were 
longer than the others - called them "boats". They wore them 
all the time "just in case", although often they weren't 
shot. Sean Astin apparently kept a record of how many times 
they had them put on and weren't seen (50 some odd) and 
ragged at the directors about it! They kept begging not to 
have to wear the feet.

	The current issue of Spin Off magazine has an article on 
the hobbit feet and which particular breed of wool that was 
used for the hair. I agree, they weren't hairy enough for 
Tolkien's description.

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Saragrace wrote:
>
> http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/image9.shtml
> 
>>How do you suppose they do those feet?  Do you think they just make up
>>the feet for special shots or does the actor have to wear them all the
>>time 'just in case' the feet get in the picture.  I would be falling all
>>over myself. 
> 
> 
> I've read that the actors had to have many pairs of prosthetic feet. In my opinion, the hobbits' feet aren't hairy enough; it's supposed to be thick like head hair.


	-Judy Mitchell
	http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: British food question
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:54:00 -0500
Status: RO

I'm confused ..I thought a British 'marrow' was the same as American
'zuchinni'.
Kate

> I think what you call zuchinni are what we call
> courgettes: and while I know they're related, I
> wouldn't add "squash" to the name any more than I
> would to that of a cucumber or a marrow. We have
> pumpkins. Butternut "squash", with that name, are in
> the "exotic" section of the supermarkets, along with
> other gourds.
>
> If we say "squash", we'd think first of the drink. Not a
> vegetable.
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 12:12:15 +1100
Status: RO

> > I think what you call zuchinni are what we call
> > courgettes: and while I know they're related, I
> > wouldn't add "squash" to the name any more than I
> > would to that of a cucumber or a marrow. We have
> > pumpkins. Butternut "squash", with that name, are in
> > the "exotic" section of the supermarkets, along with
> > other gourds.
> >
> > If we say "squash", we'd think first of the drink. Not a
> > vegetable.
>
> I'm confused ..I thought a British 'marrow' was the same as American
> 'zuchinni'.

It is. As is courgette. It's not uncommon to have one or two names for
the same thing. Usually they're regional names.

It's more confusing when you get the same word meaning different
things (like jelly or lemonade).

http://english2american.com/

Though I do remember going into a bakers in Balham and asking for a
1/2 dozen doughnuts. The girl had no idea what a dozen was. I wasn't
even going to start on the concept of a baker's dozen!

Paul
--
Good planning and organisation are just crutches for people who can't
handle stress and caffeine.
http://members.optushome.com.au/velvetspyder
Costumier & Reprobate

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<<. But if it's wrong just because someone doesn't like a high waisted =
gown, then pooey on it. Like "Bram Stoker's Dracula"....it's just bad =
costuming for no reason whatsoever>>

<<Thank you!  You said what was in my mind, but I could not figure out =
how to say it succinctly and eloquently.
Ann Wass >>

No it's not eloquent, it's just negative. The costuming for BSD is =
amazing (whether you like it or not is a different matter), just not =
historical. If you'd had historically correct costumes from 1897 they'd =
look really out of place in the extremely theatrical totally unrealistic =
set and story. It's about a vampire for goodness sake. A vampire that =
can change shape and control the weather.. not exactly a biopic about a =
real person. In this instance historical correctness would clash =
horribly. Just like for Moulin Rouge. With all the high artifice of set, =
peaople bursting into songs from the end of the 20thC and zippy camera =
work fashions of 1900 would look totally wrong.=20

In those cases you'd need to change all other aspects to fit the =
costuming, and that's not how it should be.

In the case of dramas like Age of Innocence, Anna Karenina, Portrait of =
a Lady, Pride and Prejudice which were all fairly naturalistic yes, =
costuming needs to reflect that. Fantastical costumes for those films =
would have been totally wrong. Unless they decided to play with the =
original book say and turn it into high melodrama or transported then to =
another time and place for other purposes.


The costuming for JoaT wasn't done featuring later 18thC costumes rather =
than early 1800s because the designer "doesn't like a high waisted =
gown", as I mentioned Josephine *did* have an empire line dress.=20

And yes this series was also high camp. It wasn't supposed to be real or =
have people take it seriously.=20

There are far more things in designing for theatre/film than history. =
You need to be able to very easily and without much explanation get =
across ideas to the audience, most of which have absolutely no clue =
about costumes! And if you choose to 'teach' you'd need to take time out =
from the story to explain things and frankly you'd lose your audience.

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume



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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2716.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">&lt;&lt;. But if it's wrong just because someone =
doesn't like=20
a high waisted gown, then pooey on it. Like "Bram Stoker's =
Dracula"....it's just=20
bad costuming for no reason whatsoever</FONT><FONT lang=3D0=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face=3Darial color=3D#000000 =
size=3D3=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT size=3D2>&gt;&gt;</FONT><BR></FONT><FONT =
lang=3D0=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR>&lt;&lt;Thank you!&nbsp; You said what was in =
my mind,=20
but I could not figure out how to say it succinctly and =
eloquently.<BR>Ann=20
Wass</FONT> <FONT size=3D2>&gt;&gt;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>No it's not eloquent, it's just =
negative. The=20
costuming for BSD is amazing (whether you like it or not is a different =
matter),=20
just not historical. If you'd had historically correct costumes from =
1897 they'd=20
look really out of place in the extremely theatrical totally unrealistic =
set and=20
story. It's about a vampire for goodness sake. A vampire that can change =
shape=20
and control the weather.. not exactly a biopic about a real =
person.&nbsp;In this=20
instance historical correctness would clash horribly. Just like for =
Moulin=20
Rouge. With all the high artifice of set, peaople bursting into songs =
from the=20
end of the 20thC and zippy camera work fashions of 1900 would look =
totally=20
wrong. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In those cases you'd need to change all =
other=20
aspects to fit the costuming, and that's not how it should =
be.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In the case of dramas like Age of =
Innocence, Anna=20
Karenina, Portrait of a Lady, Pride and Prejudice which were all fairly=20
naturalistic yes, costuming needs to reflect that. Fantastical costumes =
for=20
those films would have been totally wrong. Unless they decided to play =
with the=20
original book say and turn it into high melodrama or transported then to =
another=20
time and place for other purposes.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The costuming for JoaT wasn't done =
featuring later=20
18thC costumes rather than early 1800s because the designer "doesn't =
like a high=20
waisted gown", as I mentioned Josephine *did* have an empire line dress. =

</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>And yes this series was also high camp. =
It wasn't=20
supposed to be real or have people take it seriously. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT><FONT=20
face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>There are far more things in designing =
for=20
theatre/film than history. You need to be able to very easily and =
without much=20
explanation get across ideas to the audience, most of which have =
absolutely no=20
clue about costumes! And if you choose to 'teach' you'd need to take =
time out=20
from the story to explain things and frankly you'd lose your=20
audience.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>michaela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce">http://homepages.ihug.co.n=
z/~thebruce</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://recital.tripod.com/costume">http://recital.tripod.com/cost=
ume</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 14:30:23 +1300
Status: RO



> My guess is, since the gown neckline is so wide (nearly off her
> shoulders), that the "bra strap", which looks to be flesh-toned, is
> probably part of the underpinnings or interior construction of the gown
> bodice.

I'd agree. Most of the costumes we wore in Xena were able to be worn over
normal underwear but for those that weren't they had internal structures
usually made of flesh coloured lycra. They were usually sewn in. I mention
this as a lot of wardrobe personnel from those shows went to LotR as the
shows ended.

> The dress is lovely, but the neckline doesn't seem to fit her quite
> right--almost as if it's a little too big/wide, or perhaps the metallic
> trim (yum, for fantasy purposes! <g>) is too stiff?

I have a suspicion that it's her posture that is ruining the line. Others
have mentioned she dropped a cloak in this scene, and she looked stunned and
her shoulders look slightly hunched (the steep line of the angle of her
collar bones as well as the roundness of her shoulders).

It reminds me of an article on how to photograph dolls. One photo with the
doll slightly hunched wound up looking extremely lopsided, dress and doll. I
have a feeling that is what's going on in here, as well as the inner blue
layer shifting under the outer. Probably because the velvet pile caused the
fabric to creep.

And of course such a wide neckline on a loose dress is going to be difficult
to control unless you use body tape on the inside;)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume



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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 18:32:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


"Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
> 
> Good point -- maybe I should just add a skirt lifter?  Hmmm!  I'll have to
> inspect the skirt to see how bad the damage really is (I haven't had the
> heart to look at it yet).

If you're going to wear it at Gaskell Ball, it _will_ get stepped on.
My 1895 Worth reproduction gown isn't bustled, but it does have a short
train.  Since it was my wedding dress, I couldn't bring myself to leave
the train off.  However, I _did_ make sure I could bustle the train up
to just below ankle height to avoid getting it stepped on.  Over the years,
I've seen too many people with flounced skirts on eliptical hoops and 
bustle skirts get shredded at that ball.  I actually got a pretty serious
sprain one time because someone's long skirt flounce had come detached and
was trailing behind her on the floor during a polka.  I ended up with her
skirt flounce wrapped around my ankle and took a hard spill.  

There's just no way to dance on a crowded floor with trailing skirts without
someone taking damage.  Add to that, there are a lot of dancers at Gaskels
who haven't learned floorcraft yet, and it can easily become a disaster.
One of my partners remarked during a polka there, "It's hard to look 
flirtatiously into your eyes when we're trying not to get killed!"

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: British food question
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 15:52:28 +0000
Status: RO

Jane wrote:
> Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange 
> squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange 
> flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C 
> to convince you it's healthy.

Ah! We call that Kool Aid here across the pond. 8)

Arlys



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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:43:08 -0800
Status: RO


> > And we have the occasional British squash such as Ribena. (Yum. My
> > favorite, although you have to hunt to find it, usually only in
> > specialty stores and only the concentrate.)
> > 
> > Mostly we just call ours "juice".
> 
> Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange 
> squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange 
> flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C 
> to convince you it's healthy.

Well, those are called "juice drinks" too. (Things like Tang, for 
instance are still considered juice even though it is exactly what 
you are labeling "squash.")
 
> Still, it helps drown the taste of the fluoride in the tap 
> water :)

I think you are thinking of Chlorine. Fluoride in drinking water has 
no taste. But Chlorine definitely does. It is what makes most city 
water taste so gross and is put there to cut down on water 
contaminants of the viral/bacterial types. In fact, they generally 
decide how much to put in by looking at the "coloform" count of the 
pre-Chlorined water. If it has a lot of "coloforms" better known as 
bacteria, specifically E. coli which all non-chlorinated water has, 
then they put in more Chlorine. That's why sometimes the water tastes 
worse than other times. (Sometimes it's almost as bad as poolwater, 
which has Chlorine for the same reason but needs more since it is not 
running water.)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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In a message dated 12/4/2002 8:24:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:


> The costuming for BSD is amazing (whether you like it or not is a different 
> matter), just not historical. If you'd had historically correct costumes 
> from 1897 they'd look really out of place in the extremely theatrical 
> totally unrealistic set and story. It's about a vampire for goodness sake. 
> A vampire that can change shape and control the weather.. not exactly a 
> biopic about a real person. 

This discussion has probably gone far enough, but, just for the record, I 
wasn't agreeing to the specific comment's on Bram Stoker's Dracula, as I 
haven't seen it.
And I know that people put Shakespeare in different periods, or no real 
period at all, quite often.  I've worked on shows like that, and also on ones 
that start with the basic idea and silhouette of the period but go off on 
flights of fancy.  

Given all of your arguments, how do you explain Adrian's "Pride and 
Prejudice?"  The story I have read is that he had just done a film set in the 
early 1800s and wanted to do something different.  So that was just caprice 
on his part, it seems.

>And yes this series was also high camp. It wasn't supposed to be real or 
have people take it seriously. 
Perhaps part of my problem is that I see high camp descending into plain 
silliness and I lose interest.

I know theater isn't about re-creating exact historical reality.  None of us 
can do that.

And now I promise I, for one, will drop this thread and get on with my 
sewing.
Ann Wass    






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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/4/2002 8:24:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">The costuming for BSD is amazing (whether you like it or not is a different matter), just not historical. If you'd had historically correct costumes from 1897 they'd look really out of place in the extremely theatrical totally unrealistic set and story. It's about a vampire for goodness sake. A vampire that can change shape and control the weather.. not exactly a biopic about a real person. </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
This discussion has probably gone far enough, but, just for the record, I wasn't agreeing to the specific comment's on Bram Stoker's Dracula, as I haven't seen it.<BR>
And I know that people put Shakespeare in different periods, or no real period at all, quite often.&nbsp; I've worked on shows like that, and also on ones that start with the basic idea and silhouette of the period but go off on flights of fancy.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Given all of your arguments, how do you explain Adrian's "Pride and Prejudice?"&nbsp; The story I have read is that he had just done a film set in the early 1800s and wanted to do something different.&nbsp; So that was just caprice on his part, it seems.<BR>
<BR>
&gt;And yes this series was also high camp. It wasn't supposed to be real or have people take it seriously. <BR>
Perhaps part of my problem is that I see high camp descending into plain silliness and I lose interest.<BR>
<BR>
I know theater isn't about re-creating exact historical reality.&nbsp; None of us can do that.<BR>
<BR>
And now I promise I, for one, will drop this thread and get on with my sewing.<BR>
Ann Wass&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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In a message dated 12/4/2002 8:23:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:


> The costuming for BSD is amazing (whether you like it or not is a different 
> matter), just not historical. If you'd had historically correct costumes 
> from 1897 they'd look really out of place in the extremely theatrical 
> totally unrealistic set and story.

Nonsense. They are lovely gowns and...er.... things...but the designer gets a 
D-. You seem to not care that they flash a specific date on the screen then 
ignore it. You also seem to not realize that the title of the film is "BRAM 
STOKER'S Dracula", not "let's make it up Dracula". Costuming does not exist 
in a vacuum. It was the concept of the film to be true to the book [then they 
go and do the very 1st scene....that isn't anywhere in the book] The whole 
film is a disaster on every level. The Japanese designer has a wonderful 
sense of style but obviously doesn't begin to get western clothes of the 19th 
century. The men's things are all over the place and awful, even if the 
women's stuff is opulent. Opulence cannot disguise hubris....which is what 
that whole film is about. And boy did it goeth before a fall. A sad waste of 
silk and boning!

Working for the head cutter of the film at the time it came out, I head him 
say he was also disappointed in the results because of the complete disregard 
for period. The designer wanted sexy butt emphasis on the women so did 
bustles for that reason alone. What.... you can't get sexy hip/butt emphasis 
in those trumpet skirts of the 1890s? Of course you can. They cling and mold 
to the ass. Beautiful gowns. Bad designs....for that project.

So you see, I'm not just negative but have well thought out and informed 
opinions.

--part1_36.32f2e28e.2b202255_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/4/2002 8:23:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">The costuming for BSD is amazing (whether you like it or not is a different matter), just not historical. If you'd had historically correct costumes from 1897 they'd look really out of place in the extremely theatrical totally unrealistic set and story.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
Nonsense. They are lovely gowns and...er.... things...but the designer gets a D-. You seem to not care that they flash a specific date on the screen then ignore it. You also seem to not realize that the title of the film is "BRAM STOKER'S Dracula", not "let's make it up Dracula". Costuming does not exist in a vacuum. It was the concept of the film to be true to the book [then they go and do the very 1st scene....that isn't anywhere in the book] The whole film is a disaster on every level. The Japanese designer has a wonderful sense of style but obviously doesn't begin to get western clothes of the 19th century. The men's things are all over the place and awful, even if the women's stuff is opulent. Opulence cannot disguise hubris....which is what that whole film is about. And boy did it goeth before a fall. A sad waste of silk and boning!<BR>
<BR>
Working for the head cutter of the film at the time it came out, I head him say he was also disappointed in the results because of the complete disregard for period. The designer wanted sexy butt emphasis on the women so did bustles for that reason alone. What.... you can't get sexy hip/butt emphasis in those trumpet skirts of the 1890s? Of course you can. They cling and mold to the ass. Beautiful gowns. Bad designs....for that project.<BR>
<BR>
So you see, I'm not just negative but have well thought out and informed opinions.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 21:36:01 -0700
Status: RO

Ohhhh! (lightbulb goes on) I'd *wondered* what the "marrow" was in the
jar of Branston pickle that I brought home (dang, but that stuff is
good! I wonder if there's a recipe somewhere....<g>0
--sue

Baralier wrote:
> 
> > I'm confused ..I thought a British 'marrow' was the same as American
> > 'zuchinni'.
> 
> It is. As is courgette. It's not uncommon to have one or two names for
> the same thing. Usually they're regional names.
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 21:42:53 -0700
Status: RO

Except that tang and koolaid are dry mixes, and the british "squash" is
a liquid concentrate.
My hosts in Bath kept some on their kitchen counter--I believe it was
actually orange.
--sue

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> > > And we have the occasional British squash such as Ribena. (Yum. My
> > > favorite, although you have to hunt to find it, usually only in
> > > specialty stores and only the concentrate.)
> > >
> > > Mostly we just call ours "juice".
> >
> > Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange
> > squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange
> > flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C
> > to convince you it's healthy.
> 
> Well, those are called "juice drinks" too. (Things like Tang, for
> instance are still considered juice even though it is exactly what
> you are labeling "squash.")
> 
> > Still, it helps drown the taste of the fluoride in the tap
> > water :)
> 
> I think you are thinking of Chlorine. Fluoride in drinking water has
> no taste. But Chlorine definitely does. It is what makes most city
> water taste so gross and is put there to cut down on water
> contaminants of the viral/bacterial types. In fact, they generally
> decide how much to put in by looking at the "coloform" count of the
> pre-Chlorined water. If it has a lot of "coloforms" better known as
> bacteria, specifically E. coli which all non-chlorinated water has,
> then they put in more Chlorine. That's why sometimes the water tastes
> worse than other times. (Sometimes it's almost as bad as poolwater,
> which has Chlorine for the same reason but needs more since it is not
> running water.)
> 
> Kat Russell
> <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec  5 01:00:41 2002
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Andy's Christmas Present
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 00:58:32 -0500
Status: RO

I wanted to past this along for those people who have teenagers in love with
the Japanese culture... one of those fads for this age group.

I decided that I am going to make my 3rd son, Andy, a new quilt for
Christmas.   Years ago for Christmas I made him a quilt... well it is in
threads.  I bought him an electric blanket, but he prefers to sleep with the
old ragged out quilt.  He did the same thing with a baby quilt that my mom
made him.

Andy loves the Japanese culture, so today Pat (4th son) and I bought some
beautiful Japanese printed cottons to make the quilt top at Hancock Fabrics.
He loves Japanese dragons and I found two prints with dragons and two others
with Japanese people.  He also loves bamboo, and I found a black background
print with gold bamboo.  The center of each block will be the dragons and
people prints, and I will outline the block with strips of bamboo print.
The long strips separating the blocks will be black.

Now I know you all think I am crazy for trying this project this late, but
it is a really easy quilt to make.  If needed Joe (hubby) can sew the
straight seams on machine.  For the backing of the quilt I will use a black
sheet.  Instead of batting, I use a thermal blanket.  Instead of hand or
machine stitching everything together, we use the tack-tie method.  We use
cotton crochet thread and run 6" baste stitches across the entire quilt.
Then you clip the baste threads and tie them in a knot.

Joe and I made three of the tie quilts for our oldest three sons one year
for Christmas.  We started the day after Thanksgiving.  The boys loved them.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 07:42:47 -0000
Status: RO

Try this online Lation dictionary

http://www.nd.edu/~archives/latin.htm
Mel
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 07:42:03 -0000
Status: RO

Potted Meat is meat which is preveved quite often in jars or pots, you apply
pressue & a layer of butter, various types are still incredibily popular in
France but less so here, there are plenty of recipes on the web here is a
fairly good general one http://cheftochef.net/r/8/A08833.shtml

Marrows are just large courgettes if you leave a corgette to grow it becomes
a marrow. Traditionally courgettes were French food & rather sneared at ;)
Whereas a good stuffed marrow is very British !! (Much to the initially
horrow of my French son) Are both Zuccini to you ?

Squashes (as food) include butternut, pumpkin etc, and most experianced
cooks would understand the food & drink ref & interpret according to the
context, I personally use both. Sqashes are now the more artificial drinks
otherwise called cordials and, sqash I believe comes from squashing the
fruit via a sieve to make them :)

Luckily you can get the french Squashes which are very yummy & much nicer
(saddly I fill my car with these as well as wine every trip) online in the
states called teisseire
https://morpheus.safe-order.net/frenchfeast/order.htm

Mel



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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 01:54:23 -0600
Status: RO

Anyone know of a good online picture of Eleanor of Aquitaine's effigy. 
I need it like yesterday and the only biography at the library has a
poor picture.  I worked my way through lots of Google hits with no
luck.  Lots of references to it, but no pictures.

Thanks,
--Charlene

-- 
Official sign near door:   Door Alarmed.
Hand-printed sign nearby:   Window frightened.
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 08:10:29 -0000
Status: RO

On 4 Dec 2002 at 18:54, Kate Pinner wrote:

Me:
> > I think what you call zuchinni are what we call
> > courgettes: 

> I'm confused ..I thought a British 'marrow' was the same as American
> 'zuchinni'. Kate

Well, a courgette is a baby marrow, so yes, sort of. 
Courgettes are up to say 10 inches long and about 
an inch thick. Marrows are say 18 inches long and  
maybe six inches thick.  Same plant, though 
different varieties get bred for the two purposes. And 
then there's the prize-winning Giant Marrows for 
village flower shows, about which many jokes are 
made. 

I've always been told that if an American recipe talks 
about "zucchini", you should use courgette. What 
size do you think a zucchini is? Maybe I've been 
getting it wrong.




 



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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 08:10:29 -0000
Status: RO

On 4 Dec 2002 at 15:52, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Jane wrote:
> > Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange 
> > squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange 
> > flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C 
> > to convince you it's healthy.
> 
> Ah! We call that Kool Aid here across the pond. 8)

Well, that explains a mystery. I'd heard of that, and 
assumed it was a dressing for burns :)

If we call something "juice", it's juice. Mainly, 
anyway. Take fruit, and squeeze. Maybe add sugar, 
preservatives, colour, if it's going in a long-life 
carton, but the main content was once fruit.

"Juice drink" would be a watered down version of the 
above. ("contains at least 10% real orange!")

Then you get squashes with added juice.

And at the bottom of the ladder, just "squash". Don't 
go there.

BTW, the colourings used in the cheaper drinks stain 
cloth quite badly. But they're not fast enough to be 
used as dye, AFAIK. (There, costume content!)



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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 08:10:33 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote: > 
> Nonsense. They are lovely gowns and...er.... things...but the designer gets a
> 
> D-. 

Nonsense to your nonsense, because there are MANY points of view. Okay, so 
don't have a clue about clothing of the 19th c. and don't care either, and yes
I would probably hate it if they did something horrendeous to 17th c. clothing,
BUT to someone without knowledge nor any interest for 19th c. clothing, the
costumes were FANTASTIC! and guess what, I gave the costumes and A rating in my
personal costume-film ating list. Don't forget there are many points of view
and there is NO such things asd ONE right opinion, believe it or not. :-)

I understand what you say, and I do agree, and at the same time I disagree,
does that make sense? Anyway, I kinda agree with everyone's opinion in this
case, because everyone has a very valid point.

I personally took Dracula as totally fantasy, and that's why I adored the
costumes, absolutely adored them.

Nicole

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Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 08:10:28 -0000
Status: RO

On 4 Dec 2002 at 18:32, Lee Thompson-Herbert 
wrote:

> There's just no way to dance on a crowded floor with trailing skirts
> without someone taking damage.  

Not that this is my period in the slightest, but didn't 
people used to do just this? Somehow?



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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 08:15:45 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net> wrote: >

> 	Actually, it is a bra strap.

Sorry, I still don't believe that. Is there proof for this assumption?

We thought for a while it 
> might have been tape - but it's not. And the dress is 
> actually steel grey (they do a lot of color tweaking). She 

I bet it is lovely in steel grey too!

Soo.. to bring it back to historic costuming, what era does it remind me of?
(other than pre-raphaelite, obviously! *L*)

Hmm.....

Nicole

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 08:21:46 -0000
Status: RO

>Not that this is my period in the slightest, but didn't
people used to do just this? Somehow?

Firstly people were probably more aware, the longer you do it with a group
of people the less they tred on it, it is more likely to happen from a non
re-enacting male (yes generally males)

Secondly there are carytoons in Punch were after a ball the toilette is
completly ruined far beyond anything I've experianced, now I know it is
saterical, but this shows that dress damage was occuring at the time, there
are also written refs of the same.

Bear in mind to clean these garment they unpicked everything & resewed it
all together after cleaning, eaks !! I couldn't do that !!

Mel

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 02:15:19 -0600
Status: RO

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
 
> Sorry to bother the list, but this is the only place I know to ask this
> question. My daughter is reading a British book and ran across a term she
> didn't know. Having read many British children's books myself, I am
> surprised to find that I don't know the answer. So here goes: what is
> "potted meat"? Is it like Spam, or something completely different?

I was going to mention that in the States there's one company that even
lists it as "potted meat" on the label.  I couldn't remember if it was
Hormel or who and decided to verify (turns out it's Armour
http://www.shipbrook.com/jeff/potted.html ).  I Googled potted meat and
this came up:  http://www.pottedmeatmuseum.com/ .  There really is a
museum for everything.  :)

--Charlene

-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 08:18:20 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Dianne and Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote: > If you look toward the
left side of the monitor, you can see what definitely
> looks like a bra strap.

May I repeat myself: what makes it _definitely_ a bra strap? Proof please,
proof!

Nicole - awkward coz she wants proof, always, for everything :-)

AND wants her figure and that dress *whimper*

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 08:05:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Ohhhh! (lightbulb goes on) I'd
*wondered* what the "marrow" was in the
> jar of Branston pickle that I brought home (dang, but that stuff is
> good! I wonder if there's a recipe somewhere....<g>0
> --sue

Ohhhhhh Branston pickle! While I'll never be a convert to Marmite
*poooey-pooey-pooey* I adore Branston pickle. I love the Branston pickle
Walker's crisps too, actually, funnily enough, the Marmite ones are quite
interesting, while Marmite itself is really like that: love it or hate it,
nothing in between!

You should be able to get Branston pickle online somewhere in the states?

Nicole

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 00:55:27 -0800
Status: RO

To Charlene-

scroll down:
http://freespace.virgin.net/doug.thompson/normandy/falaise.htm

an overhead view:
http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/Garden/1044/eleanor.html

kind of a crummy close in color view:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/state/monarchs_leaders/henry11_ibeji04.shtml

Hope these help a little,

Theresa Eacker

Charlene Charette wrote:

> Anyone know of a good online picture of Eleanor of Aquitaine's effigy. 
> I need it like yesterday and the only biography at the library has a
> poor picture.  I worked my way through lots of Google hits with no
> luck.  Lots of references to it, but no pictures.
> 
> Thanks,
> --Charlene
> 
> 


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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 09:16:34 +0000
Status: RO


Mel wrote:
>Secondly there are carytoons in Punch were after a ball the toilette is
>completly ruined far beyond anything I've experianced, now I know it is
>saterical, but this shows that dress damage was occuring at the time, there
>are also written refs of the same.

Yes - in Mrs. Gaskell's "Ruth" the milliner's assistants have to be on duty at the ball to repair any damage to skirts that may occur.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Subject: [h-cost] Queries about coifs, biggins and headrails
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 09:24:26 +0000
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I wonder if any Elizabethan costumers could help me please.

Is there a difference between a biggins and a coif and if so what is it?

Does anyone know of any pictures of headrails? or, (fingers crossed) extant 
head rails?

regards
Joy Shillaker

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 09:28:23 +0000
Status: RO

OK, when I said the vegetable squash wasn't widely known in the UK I meant that nothing is sold under that name in your average greengrocer's. I know the courgette is a member of the same family, and I know some enthusiastic gardeners/cooks grow the "Spaghetti squash" et al., but to the average Brit squash is a drink.
I would describe potted meat as a traditional British version of what we would nowadays call pate (sorry, my e-mail doesn't include accents).

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 10:11:41 -0000
Status: RO

>OK, when I said the vegetable squash wasn't widely known in the UK I meant
that nothing is sold under that name in your average greengrocer's. I know
the courgette is a member of the same family, and I know some enthusiastic
gardeners/cooks grow the "Spaghetti squash" et al., but to the average Brit
squash is a drink.

I think you were right to say it is not a obvious first thought to the
average Brit. I know what they are but no that many people do I didn't mean
to suggest you were incorrect :)

>I would describe potted meat as a traditional British version of what we
would nowadays call pate (sorry, my e-mail doesn't include accents).

Potted meat tends to be chunkier more like terrine (sp?) in France Pate
should be smooth really

The two used to be very diffferent I expect it depends on the time frame of
the ref :)

Mel


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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 10:12:25 +0000
Status: RO

Paul wrote:

>Though I do remember going into a bakers in Balham and asking for a
>1/2 dozen doughnuts. The girl had no idea what a dozen was. I wasn't
>even going to start on the concept of a baker's dozen!

She must have been exceptionally ignorant. Most British people would know what a dozen was; eggs are always sold by the dozen or half-dozen.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 05:48:32 -0500
Status: RO


>
> BTW, the colourings used in the cheaper drinks stain
> cloth quite badly. But they're not fast enough to be
> used as dye, AFAIK. (There, costume content!)


Over here, I have heard of quilters using Kool Aid to dye fabrics. Don't
know how well it would work, or how fast it would be, but I think I would
prefer to use more reliable methods.

Dianne

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 06:04:20 -0500
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 3:18 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings


> --- Dianne and Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote: > If you look toward
the
> left side of the monitor, you can see what definitely
> > looks like a bra strap.
>
> May I repeat myself: what makes it _definitely_ a bra strap? Proof please,
> proof!
>


I didn't say definitely "is". I said definitely "looks like".   It may be
part of an underdress or chemise type thingie ( how's that for technical)
but it "looks" like  a bra strap.

Dianne

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 11:11:11 +0000
Status: RO

I wasn't getting at you, Mel, just replying to whoever was surprised that we didn't eat vegetables of that family at all.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk 12/05/02 10:11am >>>
>>OK, when I said the vegetable squash wasn't widely known in the UK I >>meant that nothing is sold under that name in your average greengrocer's. >>I know the courgette is a member of the same family, and I know some >>enthusiastic gardeners/cooks grow the "Spaghetti squash" et al., but to >>the average Brit squash is a drink.

>I think you were right to say it is not a obvious first thought to the
>average Brit. I know what they are but no that many people do I didn't >mean to suggest you were incorrect :)

>Potted meat tends to be chunkier more like terrine (sp?) in France Pate
>should be smooth really

>The two used to be very diffferent I expect it depends on the time frame of
>the ref :)

I was thinking of the potted meat I had as a child, which was smooth.


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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 04:31:15 -0800 (PST)
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"Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> wrote:
> On 4 Dec 2002 at 18:32, Lee Thompson-Herbert 
> wrote:
> 
> > There's just no way to dance on a crowded floor with trailing skirts
> > without someone taking damage.  
> 
> Not that this is my period in the slightest, but didn't 
> people used to do just this? Somehow?

The dancing was a little different.  Most of what's done at the Gaskell
Ball is viennese (turning) waltzes, polkas, quicksteps and shottisches
(though strangely, they _don't_ do the turning version of that dance).
There are usually one or two country dances thrown in as well.

But the major difference is that the floor is _very_ crowded, and a large
percentage of the dancers there have _not_ spent a lot of time on dance
lessons.  I run a weekly ceili dance, and after a couple really spectacular
disasters on the floor at Gaskells, we spent some time teaching floorcraft,
even though we don't _usually_ teach waltzes or travelling polkas.  The 
quip I mentioned in my last post about "trying not to be killed" came from
another very experienced dancer.  He was spending entirely too much time
trying to avoid couples who were careening across the floor completely out
of control.  In that situation, one either learns to modify costumes for
the environment or spend a lot of time doing repairs.  

You can do most of the dances in hoops, but not trailing ones unless you
really want to spend a lot of time repairing your dress afterwards.  And
bustles really shouldn't trail the floor for _dancing_.  Dinnerwear is
different.  

For contrast, the Scandi dancers who do almost exclusively turning dances
of many varieties tend to make sure their skirts hit just about ankle level,
or perhaps the instep of the foot.  Floor length skirts are for receptions,
not dancing.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 01:18:22 +1300
Status: RO

> Is the Pre-Raphaelite Women book mostly text? If it's the one I read
(can't
> remember the title) I highly recommend it.

Oops, sorry this one got through;) This book does have a lot of text but is
stuffed full of images, and some that I've not seen reproduced elsewhere.
Including one which shows a woman taking her hair down and in a state of
half dress.. her undergarment being total fantasy and made of what looks to
be a heavy lace.

sound familiar?

michaela


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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 05:48:09 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, I think so...Found a website that imports all kinds of British
food.  Not sure if it was through this list, or another (the
cross-topics are fun, but positively confusing sometimes!).
One of my friends had asked me to bring some back, so I'd been on the
alert.  Bought some in London (price--ouch!), and then found it again in
Bath (cheaper).  This particular jar that I'm slowly consuming managed
to open itself in my luggage on the way home (thank gawd I'd thought to
wrap them in plastic bags!).
I'd heard of "pickle," and had run across it in a couple of sandwiches
(we ate a lot of those! <g>), but didn't eat it as itself until it
showed up as part of my plowman's lunch in Shrewsbury.....*sigh*.....I
miss British cheese something fierce.
Hey, Nicole...I mailed a certain package to you a couple of days ago. 
They told me 4-6 weeks for shipping time, but when I used the same
method in September to mail back some of the books I'd accumulated
(mostly in London <g>), they actually got back before I did (less than
two weeks).  So who knows?
--sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Ohhhh! (lightbulb goes on) I'd
> *wondered* what the "marrow" was in the
> > jar of Branston pickle that I brought home (dang, but that stuff is
> > good! I wonder if there's a recipe somewhere....<g>0
> > --sue
> 
> Ohhhhhh Branston pickle! While I'll never be a convert to Marmite
> *poooey-pooey-pooey* I adore Branston pickle. I love the Branston pickle
> Walker's crisps too, actually, funnily enough, the Marmite ones are quite
> interesting, while Marmite itself is really like that: love it or hate it,
> nothing in between!
> 
> You should be able to get Branston pickle online somewhere in the states?
> 
> Nicole
>
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 05:50:13 -0700
Status: RO

Apparently, you can dye fabrics quite nicely with a mixture of koolaid. 
Not sure of proportions, etc.
I, for one, however, am not interested in wearing something dyed "Crazy
Berry Blue." <g>
--sue

Jane Williams wrote:
> 
> On 4 Dec 2002 at 15:52, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> 
> > Jane wrote:
> > > Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange
> > > squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange
> > > flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C
> > > to convince you it's healthy.
> >
> > Ah! We call that Kool Aid here across the pond. 8)
> 
> Well, that explains a mystery. I'd heard of that, and
> assumed it was a dressing for burns :)
> 
> If we call something "juice", it's juice. Mainly,
> anyway. Take fruit, and squeeze. Maybe add sugar,
> preservatives, colour, if it's going in a long-life
> carton, but the main content was once fruit.
> 
> "Juice drink" would be a watered down version of the
> above. ("contains at least 10% real orange!")
> 
> Then you get squashes with added juice.
> 
> And at the bottom of the ladder, just "squash". Don't
> go there.
> 
> BTW, the colourings used in the cheaper drinks stain
> cloth quite badly. But they're not fast enough to be
> used as dye, AFAIK. (There, costume content!)
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 05:54:09 -0700
Status: RO

All the same critter, over here. Most recipes would prefer you to use
them when they're, say, cucumber-sized up to the size of your forearm,
but not much bigger.
Of course, as any gardener knows, they're sneaky, and grow *much* bigger
than that (usually hidden under the leaves in the back of the plant!). 
We got some completely enormous ones when I was a kid...could feed some
to the cows and chickens, and the rest got set up on fence posts and
used for target practice.  They also blow up pretty good (ISTR), if you
stick fire crackers in them.
--sue

Jane Williams wrote:
> 
> On 4 Dec 2002 at 18:54, Kate Pinner wrote:
> 
> Me:
> > > I think what you call zuchinni are what we call
> > > courgettes:
> 
> > I'm confused ..I thought a British 'marrow' was the same as American
> > 'zuchinni'. Kate
> 
> Well, a courgette is a baby marrow, so yes, sort of.
> Courgettes are up to say 10 inches long and about
> an inch thick. Marrows are say 18 inches long and
> maybe six inches thick.  Same plant, though
> different varieties get bred for the two purposes. And
> then there's the prize-winning Giant Marrows for
> village flower shows, about which many jokes are
> made.
> 
> I've always been told that if an American recipe talks
> about "zucchini", you should use courgette. What
> size do you think a zucchini is? Maybe I've been
> getting it wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: British food question
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 05:56:44 -0700
Status: RO


Please wrap up this discussion, as it's off-topic for this list.

Thanks,
				...eliz, list admin

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 14:37:02 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,
Has anyone noticed that the new Simplicity pattern 5724 looks a lot like 
the dress in a fashion plate from 1851... :-)
http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/grahams1851b.jpg
http://www.simplicity.com/s2b.htm

Greetings,
        Deredere


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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 13:39:10 -0000
Status: RO

>bakers in Balham 

My sister lives in Balham, she might well not have been English at all ;)

Mel
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 13:45:22 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote: > Hi,
> Has anyone noticed that the new Simplicity pattern 5724 looks a lot like 
> the dress in a fashion plate from 1851... :-)
>
http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/grahams1851b.jpg
> http://www.simplicity.com/s2b.htm

http://www.simplicity.com/assets/5724/5724.jpg

Urgh... uhm... hmm... is it just me or are those big fat red roses a tad OTT?
*shudder*

No, seriously, I don't have a clue about this period and it struck me as an
awfully ugly dress, therefore I would like to know, IS this historically
correct? Is this right or more a costumey costume?

Cheers
Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 13:51:26 -0000
Status: RO

>The dancing was a little different.  Yeah mad insane fast & loopy

>bustles really shouldn't trail the floor for _dancing_.

Depends what you mean by trail, not long trains I'd agree but the 1872 dance
book I have and most of the pics I've seen for that era have floor length
and slightly trailing skirts certainly enough to be stepped on quite easily
:)

Mel
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In a message dated 12/5/2002 3:09:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:


> I understand what you say, and I do agree, and at the same time I disagree,
> does that make sense?

Of course that makes sense! We're throwing OPINIONS back and forth, not facts 
or life threatening diagnoses.

I love the clothes in "Orlando"....a film many of my friends hate....clothes 
and all. No one is immune.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/5/2002 3:09:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I understand what you say, and I do agree, and at the same time I disagree,<BR>
does that make sense?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Of course that makes sense! We're throwing OPINIONS back and forth, not facts or life threatening diagnoses.<BR>
<BR>
I love the clothes in "Orlando"....a film many of my friends hate....clothes and all. No one is immune.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 10:24:39 -0500
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        Were cartridge pleats used during the Tudor period or did they
come into vogue during the Elizabethan period?  I am about to do my Tudor
skirt and would really rather do cartridge pleats because they are easier
than fooling with knife pleats, but can't find a picture that doesn't
have the arms hiding the waist.  

Lalah
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Dear List:
I can't remember if I posted an announcement of this lecture to this list:
Dr. Colleen Gau, co-author of "Uplift: the Bra in America," was scheduled to 
do a lecture and book signing here at Riversdale, 4811 Riverdale Rd., 
Riverdale Park, Maryland, tonight, Dec. 5.  We denizens of the DC metro area 
being what we are, we have postponed the lecture, due to snow, to Friday 
night, Dec. 6, at 7:00 p.m.  Cost is $5.00.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Dear List:<BR>
I can't remember if I posted an announcement of this lecture to this list:<BR>
Dr. Colleen Gau, co-author of "Uplift: the Bra in America," was scheduled to do a lecture and book signing here at Riversdale, 4811 Riverdale Rd., Riverdale Park, Maryland, tonight, Dec. 5.&nbsp; We denizens of the DC metro area being what we are, we have postponed the lecture, due to snow, to Friday night, Dec. 6, at 7:00 p.m.&nbsp; Cost is $5.00.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 09:39:14 -0600
Status: RO

Way back when we had the discussion of the "tapes" hanging from the shoulders there was a 
"working sketch" that was done by an artist that showed the back of a tudor gown and I 
would say it was cartridge pleated.  I have the picture, but did not save the URL.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dracula, was Re: JoAT Re: [h-cost]
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 15:29:18 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote: > I
> I love the clothes in "Orlando"....a film many of my friends hate....clothes 
> and all. No one is immune.

Ohhhh Orlando, gorgeous, wonderful! I adore the 1700 justaucorps and big wig
and all he/she is wearing. Sure it is OTT, but it is wonderful, and actually
not that horiffically wrong. The red 1700 outfit is my favourite from the film,
what is yours?

I must admit though that my favourite scene of 'em all is thingamy as the
singing angel. *BG*

Nicole

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 08:49:41 -0700
Status: RO

Good Lord! She looks like she's wearing a Christmas tree skirt!
I can kinda see the resemblance to the fashion plate, but I wonder about
the color scheme!
--Sue, pre-17th c. costume geek

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote: > Hi,
> > Has anyone noticed that the new Simplicity pattern 5724 looks a lot like
> > the dress in a fashion plate from 1851... :-)
> >
> http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/grahams1851b.jpg
> > http://www.simplicity.com/s2b.htm
> 
> http://www.simplicity.com/assets/5724/5724.jpg
> 
> Urgh... uhm... hmm... is it just me or are those big fat red roses a tad OTT?
> *shudder*
> 
> No, seriously, I don't have a clue about this period and it struck me as an
> awfully ugly dress, therefore I would like to know, IS this historically
> correct? Is this right or more a costumey costume?
> 
> Cheers
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 10:51:55 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

In Tudor times, the skirt was gathered to the bodice primarily in
the back.  There are references to the pleats (however they were made)
being "stuffed", which could give a very full, rounded and
"cartridge-pleated" look to simple box pleats or knife pleats. This
stuffing also helped the pleats to stand out. I'm not sure if the stuffing
involved pleating, sewing, and then pushing stuffing in and sewing the
pleat closed, or if it involved a layer of wool or cotton batting laid
against the skirt fabric before it was pleated. Anyone have any more info
on the mechanics of 16th c. stuffed pleats?

While we can't say with certainty that skirts weren't cartridge-pleated in
Tudor times, I prefer the more documentable box or knife pleating until
the later 1580s.  If you cartridge pleat a skirt and then push
the pleats flat, you get really lovely, evenly spaced knife-pleats.

Good luck with the gown,

Drea

 On Thu, 5 Dec 2002, Lalah T
Tillinghast wrote:

>         Were cartridge pleats used during the Tudor period or did they
> come into vogue during the Elizabethan period?  I am about to do my Tudor
> skirt and would really rather do cartridge pleats because they are easier
> than fooling with knife pleats, but can't find a picture that doesn't
> have the arms hiding the waist.
>
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 22:34:49 -0800
Status: RO

On Wed, 04 Dec 2002 16:43:27 -0500 Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
writes:
> 
> 
> Sorry to bother the list, but this is the only place I know to ask 
> this
> question. My daughter is reading a British book and ran across a 
> term she
> didn't know. Having read many British children's books myself, I am
> surprised to find that I don't know the answer. So here goes: what 
> is
> "potted meat"? Is it like Spam, or something completely different?

Closer to deviled ham.  :-)  You can buy it in most grocery stores, near
the tuna.  :-)

HTH--

LuAnn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queries about coifs, biggins and headrails
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 08:06:49 +0000
Status: RO



On Thu, 05 Dec 2002 09:24:26 +0000 "Joy Shillaker"
<joyshillaker@hotmail.com> writes:
> I wonder if any Elizabethan costumers could help me please.
> 
> Is there a difference between a biggins and a coif and if so what is 
> it?

I was under the impression that a coif is a fitted cap and a biggins is a
bag-like cap, fitted in the front with a bag for the hair in the back.

Arlys, not a costumer


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Subject: Trains & skirt lifters (WAS Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress)
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 08:14:53 -0800
Status: RO

Re: the comment that skirts shouldn't trail on the ground for dancing:

Yes, but there was a period in the mid- to late-1870's when trains were de
rigeur for ALL skirts.  There were tons of complaints that women wore
loooong trains when out walking, which ended up trailing in the mud.

I do agree that most modern day dancers don't have an idea about floorcraft,
but my guess is that balls could be just as crowded in the 19th century as
they are today at the Gaskell ball.

So how did women deal with trains when dancing?  Were skirt lifters used, or
did they hold their skirt up, or did people know to avoid them, or were the
dances written in such a way as to incorporate the trains?  Has anyone seen
any period images of women with skirt lifters (either metal ones, loops sewn
to the skirt, or someone just holding up their skirt while dancing)?

I'm just wondering how the ladies in "Too Early" got around the floor
without massive damage!
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/tissot/p-tissot16.htm

- Kendra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 10:18:22 -0600
Status: RO

So, about where would you start the pleating? And the rest is sewn together
flat? When do they start pleating all the way around the skirt?

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************



> In Tudor times, the skirt was gathered to the bodice primarily in
> the back.

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 16:28:01 +0000
Status: RO

just a warning - my son had this same fascination, and now I am paying for a 
college junior year abroad in Japan.  (and happy to do it, just want you to know 
where it can lead).  He is also a fencer and is going to take traditional 
Japanese fencing classes when he is in Japan.  I assume that this is the same as 
a Samuri.  Does anyone have a reference for patterns for traditional Japanese 
fencing garb?  I thought I would make him a costume for his trip.
Would the Japanese have used linen or wool?  Or, were they pretty much limited 
to silk?  Does anyone know anything about historic Japanese dress.  Maybe this 
will lead me to some research on Questia.

thanks, maryann, who is now in Nutcracker hell for the next couple of weeks.
> I wanted to past this along for those people who have teenagers in love with
> the Japanese culture... one of those fads for this age group.
> 
> I decided that I am going to make my 3rd son, Andy, a new quilt for
> Christmas.   Years ago for Christmas I made him a quilt... well it is in
> threads.  I bought him an electric blanket, but he prefers to sleep with the
> old ragged out quilt.  He did the same thing with a baby quilt that my mom
> made him.
> 
> Andy loves the Japanese culture, so today Pat (4th son) and I bought some
> beautiful Japanese printed cottons to make the quilt top at Hancock Fabrics.
> He loves Japanese dragons and I found two prints with dragons and two others
> with Japanese people.  He also loves bamboo, and I found a black background
> print with gold bamboo.  The center of each block will be the dragons and
> people prints, and I will outline the block with strips of bamboo print.
> The long strips separating the blocks will be black.
> 
> Now I know you all think I am crazy for trying this project this late, but
> it is a really easy quilt to make.  If needed Joe (hubby) can sew the
> straight seams on machine.  For the backing of the quilt I will use a black
> sheet.  Instead of batting, I use a thermal blanket.  Instead of hand or
> machine stitching everything together, we use the tack-tie method.  We use
> cotton crochet thread and run 6" baste stitches across the entire quilt.
> Then you clip the baste threads and tie them in a knot.
> 
> Joe and I made three of the tie quilts for our oldest three sons one year
> for Christmas.  We started the day after Thanksgiving.  The boys loved them.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
> 
> 
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners 
> (http://www.plugit.com)]
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 12:53:38 -0500
Status: RO

According to my daughter, you can dye hair with KoolAid

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Apparently, you can dye fabrics quite nicely with a mixture of koolaid.
> Not sure of proportions, etc.
> I, for one, however, am not interested in wearing something dyed "Crazy
> Berry Blue." <g>
> --sue
>
> Jane Williams wrote:
> >
> > On 4 Dec 2002 at 15:52, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> >
> > > Jane wrote:
> > > > Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange
> > > > squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange
> > > > flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C
> > > > to convince you it's healthy.
> > >
> > > Ah! We call that Kool Aid here across the pond. 8)
> >
> > Well, that explains a mystery. I'd heard of that, and
> > assumed it was a dressing for burns :)
> >
> > If we call something "juice", it's juice. Mainly,
> > anyway. Take fruit, and squeeze. Maybe add sugar,
> > preservatives, colour, if it's going in a long-life
> > carton, but the main content was once fruit.
> >
> > "Juice drink" would be a watered down version of the
> > above. ("contains at least 10% real orange!")
> >
> > Then you get squashes with added juice.
> >
> > And at the bottom of the ladder, just "squash". Don't
> > go there.
> >
> > BTW, the colourings used in the cheaper drinks stain
> > cloth quite badly. But they're not fast enough to be
> > used as dye, AFAIK. (There, costume content!)
> _______________________________________________
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 09:53:03 -0800
Status: RO


>         Were cartridge pleats used during the Tudor period or did they
> come into vogue during the Elizabethan period?  I am about to do my
> Tudor skirt and would really rather do cartridge pleats because they
> are easier than fooling with knife pleats, but can't find a picture
> that doesn't have the arms hiding the waist.  

Cartridge pleats were used, as were knife pleats. They seem to have 
been used together at times. I don't have a URL but in the Holbein 
drawing of a lady (where he's done a front *and* a back view),  there 
are obvious large cartridge pleats in the back. Some of the Breugel 
paintings also show this. There's another picture of a English court 
lady in a red dress with navy blue brocade undersleeves which shows 
the cartridge pleats at the side. However, it appears that she has 
some flat pleats to transition the front part to the back cartridge 
pleats (like 2 on each side). Unfortunately, the book which has the 
best picture of this is hiding/lost right now. 

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 10:01:36 -0800
Status: RO

>So, about where would you start the pleating? And the rest is sewn
>together flat? When do they start pleating all the way around the 
>skirt?

> So, about where would you start the pleating? And the rest is sewn
> together flat? When do they start pleating all the way around the
> skirt?

The front is flat to just a little in front of the sides (at about 
the point of the hip), then there are about 2 knife pleats, then the 
rest is cartridge pleated.

I use a coating wool or a wool meant for padding jackets (which is 
bouncy but not as dense as coating wool) as an insert in the 
cartridge pleats to give them more body. Since we don't (yet, I keep 
hoping some will come) have either any extant garments or tailors 
manuals to say exactly how this was done, this is what I've found to 
give the same effect.

Jean Hunnisett in her "stage and screen" book on the Tudor period 
shows one method of doing it. She seems to use smaller cartridge 
pleats than I've found in paintings, however.

By the way, her pattern for the turned back sleeves hangs better than 
any other pattern I've seen for them in other books. I still had to 
do a lot of experimentation to get them just right, but they are 
still better than any of the others.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 13:38:40 -0500
Status: RO

        Well, it looks like I can get away with the cartridge pleats
after all.  I just don't feel like doing the math required for knife or
box pleats.  I hadn't planned to start the pleating until almost the side
of the garment anyway, so all the tips seem to work out to doing it the
way I wanted to.  Thanks bunches.  Don't know why I am being so fussy
about a gown made of pink polished cotton anyhow.  That alone makes it
totally wrong.  But it is pretty.

        Thanks for all the advice.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: Trains & skirt lifters (WAS Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress)
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 18:52:13 -0000
Status: RO

>So how did women deal with trains when dancing?  Were skirt lifters used,
or
did they hold their skirt up, or did people know to avoid them,

Avoiding them is a bit plus I think, also you learn to dance in manner that
swishes them out of the way most of the time. Kicking you partner until he
learns not to step on them helps too :)

> or were the
dances written in such a way as to incorporate the trains?

Not from any I've done :) Too many backwards steps they can be tricky...

>  Has anyone seen
any period images of women with skirt lifters (either metal ones, loops sewn
to the skirt, or someone just holding up their skirt while dancing)?

Loops on trains that go onto your wrist work & I'm sure I've seen refs to,
skirt lifters don't, I've tried dozens


Skirt lifters are often said to be rather middle class, I've found no
definate contempory refs to support that however. But let's face it if you
are Upper class & have servants to repair your gowns, who cares if it gets
ripped ? If you are really rich you might only wear a ballgown once anyway,
before casting it asside or remodelling it. Certainly I was brought up not
to wear the same ballgown twice, still have problems doing it & generally
make a new Vicky ballgown per ball (hence the lack of space in my house !)

Mel


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec  5 14:14:48 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thanks for the wig link
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:14:21 +0100
Status: RO

Hello Marcus!

Are you planning to have a wig made for you?
So am i, and i am going to use it in april, so perhaps i should contakt him
two, to be sure to get one in time!


 Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "marcus findlay-arthur" <marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 12:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Thanks for the wig link


> Nicole thanks for the wig fellow's link.
>
> Marcus.
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:20:12 +0100
Status: RO

Guess what?
I got 15 meters of sky blue Silk Taffeta from London today!!!

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:19:27 +0000
Status: RO


>
> Urgh... uhm... hmm... is it just me or are those big fat red roses a 
> tad OTT?
> *shudder*

Quite period I'm afraid although the Victorian versions were a good bit 
more attractive.Some frocks did incorporate fresh flowers but most were 
either fabric or wax and rather realistic.

While I can't see the bertha area very well in the pic,I do feel she is 
missing the standard ribbon and lace version to create the mid 19thC 
Victorian look.
>
> No, seriously, I don't have a clue about this period and it struck me 
> as an
> awfully ugly dress, therefore I would like to know, IS this historically
> correct? Is this right or more a costumey costume?

Its pretty close actually but still a translation.viz. what 'we' the 
consumers would believe they wore.The skirt is a tad too stiff for 
1851 - probably got hoops under it when petticoats should fill it 
out.The puffed over-skirt is a take-off of a Worth design and the scale 
of the lace trim and the scalloped edge is wrong.The fit of the bodice 
seems more current than Victorian - it should fit without wrinkles and 
sit ontop of the voluminous skirts.


Marcus.

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:34:06 +0100
Status: RO

Hi, i got 5 minuttes to read a little h-costume emails, but i have given up
to read all those send last week- sigh
Oh yes, i love Orlando two, but i hate the large panier dress with those
ruched pleats or what ever you call this with all the roses. (Was it blue?)
It was hideous, and the tall wig looked like - i dont know what to say-

Bjarne

www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dracula, was Re: JoAT Re: [h-cost]


> --- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote: > I
> > I love the clothes in "Orlando"....a film many of my friends
hate....clothes
> > and all. No one is immune.
>
> Ohhhh Orlando, gorgeous, wonderful! I adore the 1700 justaucorps and big
wig
> and all he/she is wearing. Sure it is OTT, but it is wonderful, and
actually
> not that horiffically wrong. The red 1700 outfit is my favourite from the
film,
> what is yours?
>
> I must admit though that my favourite scene of 'em all is thingamy as the
> singing angel. *BG*
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queries about coifs, biggins and headrails
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 11:32:02 -0800
Status: RO

At 09:24 AM 12/05/2002 +0000, Joy Shillaker wrote:
>I wonder if any Elizabethan costumers could help me please.
>
>Is there a difference between a biggins and a coif and if so what is it?
>
the way I classify them, is that the biggins is the baby bonnet shaped
item, usually with a strap or ties under the chin.  The coif is the one
that has a point on the forehead and sides that curve in at the cheeks.

However, I don't know that the distinction was there in the period.  In
fact, I think it's likely that "coif" meant any number of styles of closely
fitted headwear, rather the way we use "cap" today.  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 14:40:06 -0500
Status: RO

Maryann,

When my son was in high school, he wanted to go to Japan and study.  After
he flunked Japanese language class, he changed his mind.  Now he is in a
computer tech college... still living at home.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Madame Pompadour in London
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:51:42 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
Someone i know went to a lecture in London on National Portrait Gallery.
Aileen Ribeiro was giving a lecture about the fashions in Madame de
Pompadours times.
Do you know what she said?
She said that paniers were not used in Pompadours times!!!


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: [h-cost] Yep Bjarne/Thanks for the wig link
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:52:36 +0000
Status: RO

Hello Bjarne,

Long time no chat!

> Are you planning to have a wig made for you?

Absolutely!
Nicole looks so fab and it sounds so easy that I figure I may as well 
help the reenactment authenticity bit a long a bit.I need something to 
fill out my turbans!besides my big head that is!!! : >>>

> So am i, and i am going to use it in april, so perhaps i should contakt 
> him
> two, to be sure to get one in time!

I don't have a deadline and if this move to Ireland goes thru',I can 
still get to the UK easily.
You do 18thC don't you for your own stuff don't you?What sort of wig did 
you have in mind?

Marcus.
Who could just possibly go 18thC with a little temptation.

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In a message dated 12/5/2002 10:48:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:


> The red 1700 outfit is my favourite from the film,
> what is yours?
> 

I must admit being partial to the very 1st Elizabethan outfit she...er...he 
falls asleep under the tree in. Those gold silk stocking!

I hated the 18th century stuff at first, But then I "got it"...what they were 
saying about the 18th century and its restrictions, both social and physical. 
"Baroque" as in "grotesque".

Y'know "Dangerous Liaisons" is not correctly costumed either...in reality. 
The story is supposed to be in the late 1780s or 90s, if I remember 
correctly. Why did James Acheson put it in mid century? [and the director let 
him do what he wanted] He wanted it to be non-political. The real story has 
French Revolution overtones. He thought the screen play was distilled down to 
be more about the characters and love play. So he designed what he called 
"Coffee Table book" gowns....gorgeous to look at. Still, they tell some 
things about the characters. That yellow & black carriage outfit is beautiful 
but somehow conveys a sense of hypocrisy. The color is somehow trying too 
much. [does that make sense?] The artificiality of Glenn Close's "hooting" 
gown clearly says it all.

I love good design!

--part1_189.1205c350.2b2109ff_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/5/2002 10:48:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">The red 1700 outfit is my favourite from the film,<BR>
what is yours?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I must admit being partial to the very 1st Elizabethan outfit she...er...he falls asleep under the tree in. Those gold silk stocking!<BR>
<BR>
I hated the 18th century stuff at first, But then I "got it"...what they were saying about the 18th century and its restrictions, both social and physical. "Baroque" as in "grotesque".<BR>
<BR>
Y'know "Dangerous Liaisons" is not correctly costumed either...in reality. The story is supposed to be in the late 1780s or 90s, if I remember correctly. Why did James Acheson put it in mid century? [and the director let him do what he wanted] He wanted it to be non-political. The real story has French Revolution overtones. He thought the screen play was distilled down to be more about the characters and love play. So he designed what he called "Coffee Table book" gowns....gorgeous to look at. Still, they tell some things about the characters. That yellow &amp; black carriage outfit is beautiful but somehow conveys a sense of hypocrisy. The color is somehow trying too much. [does that make sense?] The artificiality of Glenn Close's "hooting" gown clearly says it all.<BR>
<BR>
I love good design!</FONT></HTML>

--part1_189.1205c350.2b2109ff_boundary--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 15:04:02 EST
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In a message dated 12/5/2002 2:24:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net writes:


> Some frocks did incorporate fresh flowers but most were 
> either fabric or wax and rather realistic.
>  


I have an 1840s bonnet with silk and paper morning glories on it. They are 
hand made and look real. Like the kind you see on fences in cow pastures.




> While I can't see the bertha area very well in the pic,I do feel she is 
> missing the standard ribbon and lace version to create the mid 19thC 
> Victorian look.
> 

There's something wrong with the skirt. It just doesn't look right. Maybe the 
cut is wrong, The overskirt that looks like an awning [yuk!] may have been 
done but it looks wrong somehow.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/5/2002 2:24:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Some frocks did incorporate fresh flowers but most were <BR>
either fabric or wax and rather realistic.<BR>
 </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I have an 1840s bonnet with silk and paper morning glories on it. They are hand made and look real. Like the kind you see on fences in cow pastures.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">While I can't see the bertha area very well in the pic,I do feel she is <BR>
missing the standard ribbon and lace version to create the mid 19thC <BR>
Victorian look.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
There's something wrong with the skirt. It just doesn't look right. Maybe the cut is wrong, The overskirt that looks like an awning [yuk!] may have been done but it looks wrong somehow.</FONT></HTML>

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From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 21:07:03 +0100
Status: RO


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>
> Quite period I'm afraid although the Victorian versions were a good 
> bit more attractive.Some frocks did incorporate fresh flowers but most 
> were either fabric or wax and rather realistic.
>
> While I can't see the bertha area very well in the pic,I do feel she 
> is missing the standard ribbon and lace version to create the mid 
> 19thC Victorian look

>
> Its pretty close actually but still a translation.viz. what 'we' the 
> consumers would believe they wore.The skirt is a tad too stiff for 
> 1851 - probably got hoops under it when petticoats should fill it 
> out.The puffed over-skirt is a take-off of a Worth design and the 
> scale of the lace trim and the scalloped edge is wrong.The fit of the 
> bodice seems more current than Victorian - it should fit without 
> wrinkles and sit ontop of the voluminous skirts. You mean that the 
> bodice is seperate?

I don't know much of this period but, I think I have to agree with you. 
The colours used in this dress are awful. Light purple or pink for the 
dress and roses,  and white for the lace, will look a lot better. I also 
think that the sleeves are a little to big and puffy. What kind of 
fabrick would they have used? Silk or also other fabricks?

Greetings,
        Deredere

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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
  <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1">
  <title></title>
</head>
<body>
<blockquote type="cite"
 cite="midDA9D4DC5-088E-11D7-9A39-0003936A9570@virgin.net"><br>
Quite period I'm afraid although the Victorian versions were a good bit  more
attractive.Some frocks did incorporate fresh flowers but most were  either
fabric or wax and rather realistic. <br>
 <br>
While I can't see the bertha area very well in the pic,I do feel she is  missing
the standard ribbon and lace version to create the mid 19thC  Victorian look</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite"
 cite="midDA9D4DC5-088E-11D7-9A39-0003936A9570@virgin.net"><br>
Its pretty close actually but still a translation.viz. what 'we' the  consumers
would believe they wore.The skirt is a tad too stiff for  1851 - probably
got hoops under it when petticoats should fill it  out.The puffed over-skirt
is a take-off of a Worth design and the scale  of the lace trim and the scalloped
edge is wrong.The fit of the bodice  seems more current than Victorian -
it should fit without wrinkles and  sit ontop of the voluminous skirts. <font
 color="#993399">You mean that the bodice is seperate?</font><br>
 </blockquote>
<font color="#993399">I don't know much of this period but, I think I have
to agree with you. The colours used in this dress are awful. Light purple
or pink for the dress and roses,&nbsp; and white for the lace, will look a lot
better. I also think that the sleeves are a little to big and puffy. What
kind of fabrick would they have used? Silk or also other fabricks?<br>
<br>
Greetings,<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere</font><br>
</body>
</html>

--------------080800030609040803020403--


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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1851 pattern
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 12:26:48 -0800
Status: RO

I believe the colors of that pattern were chosen for the occasion.  That 
pattern is being sold as a 15th birthday spanish gown.  I can't spell that 
word, but it's a big deal on a girls big birthday to have a ball etc. and 
that is the advertising on this pattern.  It may have been taken from the 
fashion plate, but I don't think it was intended for authenticity 
enthusiasts.


http://64.4.36.250/cgi-bin/linkrd?_lang=EN&lah=115aa2ad37213ab2cc1fa1d1d2edf3fc&lat=1039119406&hm___action=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2ecostumes%2eorg%2fhistory%2fvictorian%2fwomen%2ffashionplates%2fgrahams1851b%2ejpg



Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!




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Subject: [h-cost] Acheson's bee dress was: My Favorite Orlando
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 12:19:56 -0800
Status: RO

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At 02:58 PM 12/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/5/2002 10:48:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
>nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:
>
>Y'know "Dangerous Liaisons" is not correctly costumed either...in reality. 
>The story is supposed to be in the late 1780s or 90s, if I remember 
>correctly. Why did James Acheson put it in mid century? [and the director 
>let him do what he wanted] He wanted it to be non-political. The real 
>story has French Revolution overtones. He thought the screen play was 
>distilled down to be more about the characters and love play. So he 
>designed what he called "Coffee Table book" gowns....gorgeous to look at. 
>Still, they tell some things about the characters. That yellow & black 
>carriage outfit is beautiful but somehow conveys a sense of hypocrisy. The 
>color is somehow trying too much. [does that make sense?] The 
>artificiality of Glenn Close's "hooting" gown clearly says it all.

Why did he use 19th c lace on the caps when he wanted to shop around longer 
for 18th c pieces to use? I've been told it had to do with a lack of 
available time. He had to have the whole design done in 6 weeks.

This one I know. The yellow and black visiting dress is intended to 
resemble a bee's coloring. She was going to be stirring the hornet's nest - 
busy as a bee >; )


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis

--=====================_1340703==_.ALT
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<html>
At 02:58 PM 12/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial" size=2>In a
message dated 12/5/2002 10:48:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:<br><br>
Y'know &quot;Dangerous Liaisons&quot; is not correctly costumed
either...in reality. The story is supposed to be in the late 1780s or
90s, if I remember correctly. Why did James Acheson put it in mid
century? [and the director let him do what he wanted] He wanted it to be
non-political. The real story has French Revolution overtones. He thought
the screen play was distilled down to be more about the characters and
love play. So he designed what he called &quot;Coffee Table book&quot;
gowns....gorgeous to look at. Still, they tell some things about the
characters. That yellow &amp; black carriage outfit is beautiful but
somehow conveys a sense of hypocrisy. The color is somehow trying too
much. [does that make sense?] The artificiality of Glenn Close's
&quot;hooting&quot; gown clearly says it all.</font></blockquote><br>
Why did he use 19th c lace on the caps when he wanted to shop around
longer for 18th c pieces to use? I've been told it had to do with a lack
of available time. He had to have the whole design done in 6 weeks.
<br><br>
This one I know. The yellow and black visiting dress is intended to
resemble a bee's coloring. She was going to be stirring the hornet's nest
- busy as a bee &gt;; )<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis <br>
</font></b></html>

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 13:43:42 -0800 (PST)
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mabse@attbi.com wrote:
> He is also a fencer and is going to take traditional 
> Japanese fencing classes when he is in Japan.  I assume that this is the same as 
> a Samuri.  Does anyone have a reference for patterns for traditional Japanese 
> fencing garb?  I thought I would make him a costume for his trip.
> Would the Japanese have used linen or wool?  Or, were they pretty much limited
> to silk?  Does anyone know anything about historic Japanese dress.  Maybe this
> will lead me to some research on Questia.

Look at this page to see what is typically worn for Kendo (japanese fencing):
http://store.yahoo.com/martialartsmart/kensamun.html

The keikogi and hakama are worn for kata (slow, posed exercises), the padded
armor for actual fencing with shinai.  Kata are done with wooden boken, often
quite heavy to build up the arm muscles.  

Historic costume is great, but actual fencing gear is a better idea if he
wants to take classes.  My husband used to be very active before he destroyed
his knee while practicing on astroturf in college.  He still does kata with
boken and sai (those weird three-pronged metal knives).  In fact, I bought
him a new set of sai for our anniversary last year.
 
Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 13:18:35 -0800
Status: RO


>         Well, it looks like I can get away with the cartridge pleats
> after all.  I just don't feel like doing the math required for knife
> or box pleats.  I hadn't planned to start the pleating until almost
> the side of the garment anyway, so all the tips seem to work out to
> doing it the way I wanted to.  Thanks bunches.  Don't know why I am
> being so fussy about a gown made of pink polished cotton anyhow.  That
> alone makes it totally wrong.  But it is pretty.

But it is a learning experience too. Perhaps you are considering this 
a "usable" mockup? (I deliberately make my mockups out of plain black 
fabric so that all it takes, if the pattern works, is to put a little 
trim on it and I have a wearable dress.)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 13:51:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Kate Pinner <pinner@mccc.edu>
> 
> According to my daughter, you can dye hair with KoolAid

It's true.  We used to do that before all the new funky-colored
dyes became available.  Purples and reds took the best.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <7C506C3B-0893-11D7-9A39-0003936A9570@virgin.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yep Bjarne/Thanks for the wig link
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 22:41:23 +0100
Status: RO

I want a grey wig with 2 rolls on each side, and a bag in the neck. It is to
match my fully embroidered court suit wich i have finished all the
embroidery for. It only needs to be sewn together.
Time? 1770ies
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "marcus findlay-arthur" <marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 9:52 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Yep Bjarne/Thanks for the wig link


> Hello Bjarne,
>
> Long time no chat!
>
> > Are you planning to have a wig made for you?
>
> Absolutely!
> Nicole looks so fab and it sounds so easy that I figure I may as well
> help the reenactment authenticity bit a long a bit.I need something to
> fill out my turbans!besides my big head that is!!! : >>>
>
> > So am i, and i am going to use it in april, so perhaps i should contakt
> > him
> > two, to be sure to get one in time!
>
> I don't have a deadline and if this move to Ireland goes thru',I can
> still get to the UK easily.
> You do 18thC don't you for your own stuff don't you?What sort of wig did
> you have in mind?
>
> Marcus.
> Who could just possibly go 18thC with a little temptation.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 14:05:47 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
>
> I don't know much of this period but, I think I have to agree with you. 
> The colours used in this dress are awful. Light purple or pink for the 
> dress and roses,  and white for the lace, will look a lot better. I also 
> think that the sleeves are a little to big and puffy. What kind of 
> fabrick would they have used? Silk or also other fabricks?

Unfortunately, the victorians _loved_ color combinations that we would
consider hideous.  I saw a very similar dress made up in violet and fuschia.
It was horrible, but very, very period.  Somewhere, I have a book that a
writer from the period bemoans english women's lack of taste in colors.
Since all the photos we have from the period are black and white, we sometimes
forget what colors were actually used.  I've seen plenty of dresses from 
that period that combine colors like brown and blue and purple all in the 
same dress.  I agree the roses are too bright, they'd probably be a more
realistic color.  However, the big pattern companies do their designs with
availability of trims in mind.  You _can_ find better roses, but you have
to hunt a bit.  

One other oddity of victorian ballgowns is that often the flowers in the hair
were artificial, but the flowers on the gown might be real.  The exact 
opposite of what we'd do.  They also liked doing things like combining lace
and fur trims in a manner that we'd find hideous.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec  5 17:07:18 2002
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Trains & skirt lifters (WAS Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress)
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 14:25:27 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

"Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com> wrote:
> Re: the comment that skirts shouldn't trail on the ground for dancing:
> 
> Yes, but there was a period in the mid- to late-1870's when trains were de
> rigeur for ALL skirts.  There were tons of complaints that women wore
> loooong trains when out walking, which ended up trailing in the mud.

Part of that was snobbery.  A fine lady was supposed to have a carriage. ;}

> I do agree that most modern day dancers don't have an idea about floorcraft,
> but my guess is that balls could be just as crowded in the 19th century as
> they are today at the Gaskell ball.

Possibly not, unless recent Gaskell balls have been much less crowded than
when I quit attending a couple years back.  People were more likely to sit
out and talk.

> So how did women deal with trains when dancing?  Were skirt lifters used, or
> did they hold their skirt up, or did people know to avoid them, or were the
> dances written in such a way as to incorporate the trains?  Has anyone seen
> any period images of women with skirt lifters (either metal ones, loops sewn
> to the skirt, or someone just holding up their skirt while dancing)?

The major hazard was not your _partner_, but everyone else on the floor
stepping on your skirts.  Especially with turning dances where one often
has one's back to the line of dance.  If one really does turn 180 degrees
with each set of steps (instead of the quarter turns many people employ),
your skirt train will whip around towards your ankles rather than the floor.
However, on a crowded floor, it's very difficult to do this.  I have memories
of actually leaping over other ladies' skirts while negotiating the floor.

> I'm just wondering how the ladies in "Too Early" got around the floor
> without massive damage!
> http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/tissot/p-tissot16.htm

They didn't.  I've also seen the comments about destroyed and ruined dresses.
However, if _you_ don't want to have to rebuild your skirt every time you
wear it (goodness gracious, you're wearing a ballgown more than once!  
scandalous!), you might consider a wrist loop.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Sheila W-S <turrel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 14:11:24 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
>>Well, it looks like I can get away with the
cartridge >>pleats after all.  I just don't feel like
doing the math >>required for knife or box pleats.  I
hadn't planned to >>start the pleating until almost
the  side of the garment >>anyway, so all the tips
seem to work out to doing it the >>way I wanted to. 
Thanks bunches.  Don't know why I am >>being so fussy
about a gown made of pink polished cotton >>anyhow. 
That alone makes it totally wrong.  But it is
>>pretty.

  I don't use cartridge pleats on Tudor gowns, after
reading Sarah L. Goodman's article on Farthingales and
Bumrolls....
http://www.elizabethanlady.com/farthingales.html
  I looked at her pictures and the the holbein tudor
lady (shown at the bottom) and don't believe that
these pleats were done by cartridge pleating.  I think
it was knife pleats that were lined/stuffed and
stacked on top of each other to give that layered
look.
  Also I don't use math to do my knife or box pleats. 
I simple pin the ends of my skirt to my bodice, pin
the center back and the middle of the skirt.  Then I
find the middle of the bodice at these points, and the
middle of the skirt at these points and pin them.  I
continue to half the skirt and bodice until its small
enough to pleat and then I start at one end and lay
down the folds of material and pin them.  Instant and
evenly spaced pleats without having to use a measuring
tape.

YMMV,
Sheila

Phoenix, AZ

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Hey, Guys:
Anybody have any idea how many of us there are on the h-cost mailing list?
Thanks for your best guestimates,
Julia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hey, Guys:
<BR>Anybody have any idea how many of us there are on the h-cost mailing list?
<BR>Thanks for your best guestimates,
<BR>Julia</FONT></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yep Bjarne/Thanks for the wig link
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 22:28:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > I want a grey wig
with 2 rolls on each side, and a bag in the neck. It is to
> match my fully embroidered court suit wich i have finished all the
> embroidery for. It only needs to be sewn together.
> Time? 1770ies

Then I do suggest to contact derek, don't forget to mention that I sent you,
Nicole with the 1660s wig and the 1700 wig for the fontange and with ben's 1700
periwig where the first one got thrown out by Colin mistakenly and we had to
shell out 300 quid for a second one. ;-) He'll know then... :-)))

He's lovely, a pleasure to work with. expensive, but hey, quality doesn't come
cheap, and on top of it all he is SUCH a nice chap.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 16:28:18 -0600
Status: RO

Theresa Eacker wrote:

> an overhead view:
> http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/Garden/1044/eleanor.html

Of the three, this is closest to what I need.  I just wish it were
bigger.  :)

Thanks,
--Charlene

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Subject: [h-cost] Dancing in Gowns with Trains
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 17:51:44 -0500
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> From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
> Subject: Trains & skirt lifters (WAS Re: [h-cost] FO:  1874-77 evening reception dress)
>
> - Kendra
>
> From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
>
> >So how did women deal with trains when dancing?  Were skirt lifters used,
> or
> did they hold their skirt up, or did people know to avoid them,
>
> Avoiding them is a bit plus I think, also you learn to dance in manner that
> swishes them out of the way most of the time.
>
> > or were the
> dances written in such a way as to incorporate the trains?
>
> Not from any I've done :) Too many backwards steps they can be tricky...

I learned an 1860's waltz & an 1890's.

The '60's waltz (no train) starts with the gentleman's back to the center of
the floor & the lady's back towards the seat.  Line of direction is 'over
hands'.
After three beats, the lady has her back to the center of the room & line
of direction is 'over elbows'.
All steps are forward or in place; nobody steps backwards.


The 1890's waltz, when at least some ballgowns were trained, starts with
the gentleman's back to line of direction.
The dance starts with his taking a step backwards, two turning steps, and
the lady then takes a step back.  The turning should be neat enough that
her train gets out of her way.

I don't know when the transition took place, and I don't believe it would be
possible to have a partial transition, although I am only an intermediate
vintage dancer.


Very early in my costuming, I made a vaguely Regency gown with a two foot
train.  I learned to dance a dos a' dos (do-si-do) fairly easily, because the train
got out of my way enough.


> Mel

Ann in CT


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On Thu, 5 Dec 2002 JAzo478796@aol.com wrote:

> Anybody have any idea how many of us there are on the h-cost mailing list?

According to the online info page, there are 303 regular and 164 on
digest. There may be some duplicate subscriptions, of course.

That's low. I seem to remember a time when we topped 800.

--Robin



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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 12:14:09 +1300
Status: RO

> Quite period I'm afraid although the Victorian versions were a good bit
> more attractive.Some frocks did incorporate fresh flowers but most were
> either fabric or wax and rather realistic.

Not quite the same decade but in Fashion and Reality (or Edwardian and
Victorian Fashion a photographic survey depending on whether you have the
original book or the Dover reprint) the author mentions that at time fake
flowers were used in the hair and real one on the dress. That was about the
1870s though.
I don't know her source, but it was interesting;) I know wax orange blossoms
can still be found on hair pieces froma bit later on...

michaela


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From: kris <ionization@shaw.ca>
Subject: Drinks as dye - Re: [h-cost] OT: British food question
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 15:13:29 -0800
Status: RO


>Over here, I have heard of quilters using Kool Aid to dye fabrics. Don't
>know how well it would work, or how fast it would be, but I think I would
>prefer to use more reliable methods.

Kool Aid works really well on wool. My friend made a grape and lemonade 
plaid shawl for a class project :] they still smell fruity, but the colors 
have lasted 4 or 5 washings.

kris 

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> According to the online info page, there are 303 regular and 164 on
> digest. There may be some duplicate subscriptions, of course.

I was just at the page last night looking for some archives (which are
impossible to find on the site btw. I even looked at info pages for other
lists to see if I could find the right directory to no avail).

michaela



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: British food question
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 18:55:46 -0500
Status: RO

On Thursday 05 December 2002 03:10 am, Jane Williams wrote:
> On 4 Dec 2002 at 18:54, Kate Pinner wrote:
>
> Me:
[text cut here]

> Well, a courgette is a baby marrow, so yes, sort of.
> Courgettes are up to say 10 inches long and about
> an inch thick. Marrows are say 18 inches long and
> maybe six inches thick.  Same plant, though
> different varieties get bred for the two purposes. And
> then there's the prize-winning Giant Marrows for
> village flower shows, about which many jokes are
> made.
>
> I've always been told that if an American recipe talks
> about "zucchini", you should use courgette. What
> size do you think a zucchini is? Maybe I've been
> getting it wrong.

The zucchinis I see in supermarkets near me are in the range between what 
you've called courgettes and what you've called marrows.  (Personally, I 
don't eat them myself, so that's all the data I have.)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 15:51:24 -0800
Status: RO

To Charlene-

I just transferred the graphic to Appleworks, used the drawing feature 
and stretched to a much bigger size.  Do you have anything available 
like that?

Hope that helps,

Theresa Eacker

Charlene Charette wrote:

> Theresa Eacker wrote:
> 
> 
>>an overhead view:
>>http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/Garden/1044/eleanor.html
>>
> 
> Of the three, this is closest to what I need.  I just wish it were
> bigger.  :)
> 
> Thanks,
> --Charlene
> 
> 


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 19:20:08 -0500
Status: RO

On Thursday 05 December 2002 08:37 am, Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> Hi,
> Has anyone noticed that the new Simplicity pattern 5724 looks a lot like
> the dress in a fashion plate from 1851... :-)
> http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/grahams1851b.
>jpg http://www.simplicity.com/s2b.htm

My guess is that it was intentional.  Simplicity has been doing a growing line 
of patterns intended to be used to reproduce historic styles.  My impression 
is that the patterns are only generically period in flavor and not terribly 
accurate.

5724 appears to be better than most to me, except the shape of the bodice 
looks slightly wrong, somehow....



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dracula, was Re: JoAT Re: [h-cost]
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:39:22 +0000
Status: RO


> Nonsense to your nonsense, because there are MANY points of view. Okay, 
> so
> don't have a clue about clothing of the 19th c. and don't care either,


Well the Designers were 'creative' but it was a movie and not an 
historical reenactment event based on fact.

>  and yes
> I would probably hate it if they did something horrendeous to 17th c. 
> clothing,

Very probable.I feel that way about badly constructed or inaccurate 
representations of my own favourite period.

> I personally took Dracula as totally fantasy, and that's why I adored 
> the
> costumes, absolutely adored them.

Am with you on this one.I thought it was wonderful and would be proud to 
claim the work if I'd ever done it.Loved it them and I realised recently 
when it was on the 'box' again that I still love it.Its up there with 
'Dangerous Liaisons' for sheer visual treats in my book.

Marcus.

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From: marcus findlay-arthur <mangal.kalima@virgin.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1851 model for Simplicity pattern - skirt,got it!
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 00:49:22 +0000
Status: RO

Its like those Scarlett O' Hara collector dolls that were around a few 
years ago - the green muslin number that flares out to the ankles in 
rows of frills as I remember.

In 1851 the crinoline wasn't actually available and women depended upon 
several layers of petticoats to achieve the bell shape.Thats the issue - 
the skirt doesn't 'bell' properly for the period.The fall of the 
petticoats,say some eight in all of various weights and fabrics would 
bloom out from the waist and at mid thigh measure would fall down to the 
floor in heavier folds,not flare smoothly.With the standard 18 yard 
measure in the hem line of a summer frock in taffetta or mouseline you 
get these fab,rich folds of fabric that whisper when moved by the wearer.

Thinking back to the examples that I saw in the various South African 
museums when I was Victorian-mad and the Worth examples at the Met,this 
is a later pattern intended for a crinoline.

The Simplicity pic spreads out almost conically like an 1861-1864 
silhouette.

Do I envy you!!!
A silk and paper 1840's bonnet!
You should see the skill some of the later ribbon work used for floral 
decoration - astounding.You want to smell them in some 
instances.Really,really beautiful and of course lost with all the frou 
frou going on.

The over skirt is also a later fashion feature and had something to do 
with the Pompadour craze which was later than '51 by a few years,five to 
seven years max,if I remember my fashion plates but I am open to 
correction on this point.For most of the 50's the skirt shape was 
bell,full and weighty around the feet.Sort of like a Lely or Van Dyke 
would be wrong without the folds.

Marcus.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec  5 19:09:06 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model - bodice,sleeve & betha
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 01:02:57 +0000
Status: RO


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Dereder,

Whether the bodice would be separate would depend upon where it was made 
and for what function.French fashion was more formal and thus separate 
bodices were common for Court or Socially prominent events.Not so in 
England or the USA to the same extent.

Generally the bodice is made up separately and attached to the skirt on 
the top of the pleats and gathers.It looks separate but isn't.(Morning 
or afternoon frocks usually have a round waist but evening gowns tend to 
have the regular front and back boned points to the waist of the bodice.

I'd also say that the sleeve is a tad large if being used for a historic 
pattern.It should fit a bit closer to the arm so that the bertha would 
fit over it smoothly and emphasize the bosom and shoulders of the wearer.

And this pattern really really screams for a bertha to be 1851.

Marcus.

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Dereder,


Whether the bodice would be separate would depend upon where it was
made and for what function.French fashion was more formal and thus
separate bodices were common for Court or Socially prominent
events.Not so in England or the USA to the same extent.


Generally the bodice is made up separately and attached to the skirt
on the top of the pleats and gathers.It looks separate but
isn't.(Morning or afternoon frocks usually have a round waist but
evening gowns tend to have the regular front and back boned points to
the waist of the bodice.


I'd also say that the sleeve is a tad large if being used for a
historic pattern.It should fit a bit closer to the arm so that the
bertha would fit over it smoothly and emphasize the bosom and
shoulders of the wearer.


And this pattern really really screams for a bertha to be 1851.


Marcus.


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec  5 19:11:59 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 17:08:43 -0700
Status: RO

> I was just at the page last night looking for some archives (which are
> impossible to find on the site btw. I even looked at info pages for other
> lists to see if I could find the right directory to no avail).
> 
> michaela

Here's the text as it appears on
   http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


To search by keyword, use Eric Praetzel's searchable archive at:
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives
Eric made some changes to the search method a few months ago that speed
the search but reduce your ability to search to just the name and subject
line ... not much use for many questions. I use the "old" search function,
which I believe is still available from his main search page, and I hope
it stays that way. Be as specific as you can in your search term (you can
pick only one), and you'll get faster searches if you do only one year's
worth of posts at a time.
The results are grouped by month, so when you click on one of the
search results, you'll get that whole month's worth of postings -- a big
download, but useful for reading whole threads.

-- Method 2:
For older archives (1993-1996), go to Franchesca Havas' site at
http://www.io.com/~ches/h-costume/ . You can ftp or download zipped files.
I'm not sure if Ches has later archives too. I hope *someone* is keeping
them.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec  5 19:29:27 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yep Bjarne/Thanks for the wig link
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 01:23:22 +0000
Status: RO


On Thursday, December 5, 2002, at 09:41  pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I want a grey wig with 2 rolls on each side, and a bag in the neck. It 
> is to
> match my fully embroidered court suit wich i have finished all the
> embroidery for. It only needs to be sewn together.
> Time? 1770ies

Very nice indeed.Keep me posted.Mine will be much simpler since I need 
it to roll and coil up under the turbans.Promise to have pics taken.

Marcus.

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 19:29:50 EST
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In a message dated 12/5/2002 3:27:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
distantdesigns@hotmail.com writes:

> That 
> pattern is being sold as a 15th birthday spanish gown.  I can't spell that 
> word, but it's a big deal on a girls big birthday to have a ball etc. and 
> that is the advertising on this pattern. 

Ah! A quinciera dress!  That makes sense.  Interesting, though.  In these 
parts, those dresses tend to be intense pastels (if there is such a 
thing--you know, saturated lavender, pink, etc.)
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/5/2002 3:27:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, distantdesigns@hotmail.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">That <BR>
pattern is being sold as a 15th birthday spanish gown.&nbsp; I can't spell that <BR>
word, but it's a big deal on a girls big birthday to have a ball etc. and <BR>
that is the advertising on this pattern. </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Ah! A quinciera dress!&nbsp; That makes sense.&nbsp; Interesting, though.&nbsp; In these parts, those dresses tend to be intense pastels (if there is such a thing--you know, saturated lavender, pink, etc.)<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Another question about pleats then
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 18:27:30 -0600
Status: RO

What type of pleat did they use when they were making men's skirted jerkins?  Were those 
organ pleats then?  I do not see how a knife pleat could create those wonderful conical 
pleats we see in the portraiture and woodcuts?
I know a seamstress that refuses to make the skirts on the circle so she makes 
rolled/squashed organ pleats to make the hemline portion of the skirts full enough.  But 
they make enourmous bulk at the waist if using a heavy fabric.  (which would support the 
theory that stuffed and organ pleating was done in the women's gowns).

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 19:26:51 EST
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In a message dated 12/5/2002 3:05:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

> I have an 1840s bonnet with silk and paper morning glories on it. They are 
> hand made and look real. Like the kind you see on fences in cow pastures.
> 
> 

Pictures?
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/5/2002 3:05:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, AlbertCat@aol.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have an 1840s bonnet with silk and paper morning glories on it. They are hand made and look real. Like the kind you see on fences in cow pastures.<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Pictures?<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 19:59:44 -0500
Status: RO

On Thursday 05 December 2002 11:28 am, mabse@attbi.com wrote:
> just a warning - my son had this same fascination, and now I am paying for
> a college junior year abroad in Japan.  (and happy to do it, just want you
> to know where it can lead).  He is also a fencer and is going to take
> traditional Japanese fencing classes when he is in Japan.  I assume that
> this is the same as a Samuri.  Does anyone have a reference for patterns
> for traditional Japanese fencing garb?  I thought I would make him a
> costume for his trip.

As I notice some of the other list members have mentioned, martial arts stores 
sell kendo uniforms that would be more appropriate for his purposes.

> Would the Japanese have used linen or wool?  Or, were they pretty much
> limited to silk? 

Modern kendo uniforms are made of cotton.  

To my knowledge, historic Japanese dress did not use linen at all (I have no 
idea if it grows in Japan or not, suspect the answer is "not.")  My 
recollection is that they didn't use cotton much either before about the 16th 
century.  Before then, the well off wore silk, the peasants wore hemp or 
ramie or other bast fibers.  I suspect that the only folk in Japan who wore 
wool traditionally were the Ainu (the Caucasian tribes in northern Japan).  

This is from my general costume reading.  I'm fairly but not 100% sure of the 
above.  There is a nice site on noble Japanese dress at 

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 16:36:34 -0800
Status: RO


> What type of pleat did they use when they were making men's skirted
> jerkins?  Were those organ pleats then?  I do not see how a knife
> pleat could create those wonderful conical pleats we see in the
> portraiture and woodcuts? I know a seamstress that refuses to make the
> skirts on the circle so she makes rolled/squashed organ pleats to make
> the hemline portion of the skirts full enough.  But they make
> enourmous bulk at the waist if using a heavy fabric.  (which would
> support the theory that stuffed and organ pleating was done in the
> women's gowns).

In Alcega's Tailor's Book 1589 (such as f.30) they show them cut on 
the curve. That would take some of the bulk out of it and make the 
pleats more conical.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 19:48:47 EST
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In a message dated 12/5/2002 7:28:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:


> 
> >> I have an 1840s bonnet with silk and paper morning glories on it. They 
>> are hand made and look real. Like the kind you see on fences in cow 
>> pastures.
>> 
>> 
> 
> Pictures?
> 

I have 4 or 5 boxes in the attic with 1840s or so bonnets in them. They are 
all rotten and not repairable...to my mind anyway....but I save them for 
their wealth of decoration ideas.  For example: One bonnet gets it's shape 
from a wire frame and is covered with little strips of grey silk 
organdy....that tend to roll up into little tubes. These are woven over the 
frame and big gunch of loops of these tubes decorate one side.

I wonder if the MET would want them....or some educational institution [FIT? 
Parsons?] because they are really falling apart. But then you get to see the 
insides!

I want to archive these but really don't know what the hell to do. I'm no 
bonnet expert. I can take pictures now that I have a digital camera. [But let 
me do the chemises 1st, will ya????!] This may be a good project after the 
holidays.

Patience, please.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 12/5/2002 7:28:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have an 1840s bonnet with silk and paper morning glories on it. They are hand made and look real. Like the kind you see on fences in cow pastures.
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Pictures?
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I have 4 or 5 boxes in the attic with 1840s or so bonnets in them. They are all rotten and not repairable...to my mind anyway....but I save them for their wealth of decoration ideas. &nbsp;For example: One bonnet gets it's shape from a wire frame and is covered with little strips of grey silk organdy....that tend to roll up into little tubes. These are woven over the frame and big gunch of loops of these tubes decorate one side.
<BR>
<BR>I wonder if the MET would want them....or some educational institution [FIT? Parsons?] because they are really falling apart. But then you get to see the insides!
<BR>
<BR>I want to archive these but really don't know what the hell to do. I'm no bonnet expert. I can take pictures now that I have a digital camera. [But let me do the chemises 1st, will ya????!] This may be a good project after the holidays.
<BR>
<BR>Patience, please.</FONT></HTML>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, AnnBWass@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1851 pattern
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:12:51 -0500
Status: RO

On Thursday 05 December 2002 07:29 pm, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/5/2002 3:27:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>
> distantdesigns@hotmail.com writes:
> > That
> > pattern is being sold as a 15th birthday spanish gown.  I can't spell
> > that word, but it's a big deal on a girls big birthday to have a ball
> > etc. and that is the advertising on this pattern.
>
> Ah! A quinciera dress!  That makes sense.  Interesting, though.  In these
> parts, those dresses tend to be intense pastels (if there is such a
> thing--you know, saturated lavender, pink, etc.)

That would certainly explain the color scheme of the example....but I didn't 
think that quinciera dresses were floor length.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Subject: The Met!!!!Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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From: marcus findlay-arthur <marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net>
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 01:59:34 +0000
Status: RO


--Apple-Mail-2-703232307
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The Met really looks after their stuff if they can salvage it and could=20=

use it for instructional purposes.I studied at FIT and didn't find them=20=

too careful back then.

Marcus.

On Friday, December 6, 2002, at 12:48  am, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/5/2002 7:28:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20
> AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
>
>
>
> I have an 1840s bonnet with silk and paper morning glories on it. They=20=

> are hand made and look real. Like the kind you see on fences in cow=20
> pastures.
>
>
>
> Pictures?
>
>
>
> I have 4 or 5 boxes in the attic with 1840s or so bonnets in them. =
They=20
> are all rotten and not repairable...to my mind anyway....but I save=20
> them for their wealth of decoration ideas. =A0For example: One bonnet=20=

> gets it's shape from a wire frame and is covered with little strips of=20=

> grey silk organdy....that tend to roll up into little tubes. These are=20=

> woven over the frame and big gunch of loops of these tubes decorate =
one=20
> side.
>
> I wonder if the MET would want them....or some educational institution=20=

> [FIT? Parsons?] because they are really falling apart. But then you =
get=20
> to see the insides!
>
> I want to archive these but really don't know what the hell to do. I'm=20=

> no bonnet expert. I can take pictures now that I have a digital =
camera.=20
> [But let me do the chemises 1st, will ya????!] This may be a good=20
> project after the holidays.
>
> Patience, please.
>

--Apple-Mail-2-703232307
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The Met really looks after their stuff if they can salvage it and
could use it for instructional purposes.I studied at FIT and didn't
find them too careful back then.


Marcus.


On Friday, December 6, 2002, at 12:48  am, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:


<excerpt><fontfamily><param>Arial</param>In a message dated 12/5/2002
7:28:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, AnnBWass@aol.com writes:




I have an 1840s bonnet with silk and paper morning glories on it. They
are hand made and look real. Like the kind you see on fences in cow
pastures.




<color><param>0000,0000,0000</param>Pictures?

</color>



I have 4 or 5 boxes in the attic with 1840s or so bonnets in them.
They are all rotten and not repairable...to my mind anyway....but I
save them for their wealth of decoration ideas. =A0For example: One
bonnet gets it's shape from a wire frame and is covered with little
strips of grey silk organdy....that tend to roll up into little tubes.
These are woven over the frame and big gunch of loops of these tubes
decorate one side.


I wonder if the MET would want them....or some educational institution
[FIT? Parsons?] because they are really falling apart. But then you
get to see the insides!


I want to archive these but really don't know what the hell to do. I'm
no bonnet expert. I can take pictures now that I have a digital
camera. [But let me do the chemises 1st, will ya????!] This may be a
good project after the holidays.


Patience, please.</fontfamily>


</excerpt>=

--Apple-Mail-2-703232307--

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ethnic Eating and cold weather
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 14:22:28 -0800
Status: RO


>It sounds almost like you're
>combining costume and non-costume elements to stay warm.  Where are you,
>by the way? We've had a couple of weeks of nothing but sub-freezing
>temps and ice fogs.  Ugh.  Very dreary.  I've been starting on my winter
>projects--I'm making a fitted gown for an upcoming competition, learning
>tablet-weaving, and planning on getting around to making some garments
>inspired by the ones in the Mannesse Codex (for next summer's tourney
>season).  What's everyone else doing?

Sitting here in my t-shirt-sleeves, wondering if I want to put my shoes on 
before going outside, or not.  The thermostat says it's 72 degrees in here, 
so I don't know if the heater is on or not.  It hasn't rained (not enough 
to notice anyway) for several weeks now.

I love capes, cloaks, and coats, but the weather here is such that I roast 
in them  most of the year.  At Dickens' Fair last week (indoors), I sweated 
profusely in my lower-class day dress, single petticoat, chemise and 
corset, tucker, knee-high stockings, apron, and cap, all of cotton.  And 
we're supposed to add bonnets and wraps when we go from an area supposed to 
be indoors to one supposed to be outdoors.  The guys in frock coats and 
morning coats suffer the worst.  Last year we had to turn the building 
heaters on a couple of times, but this year nobody has even suggested 
it.  We're doing London in late December here in San Francisco.


Kayta

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 13:57:52 -0800
Status: RO


>I confess total ignorance when it comes to babies, but isn't a certain
>amount of crying necessary for the healthy development of an infant's
>lungs?

Nope.  In many cultures, babies cry very little.


Kayta

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 13:53:50 -0800
Status: RO


>Anyone have a picture of the second Mrs. Weasley sweater?  Sounds
>interesting to me, but when I saw the movie, I was between 12 hour shifts of
>work, got 3 hours sleep and back to work, so I missed a few details.  I
>guess I'm gonna just have to see it again soon to see what I missed in my
>sleep-deprived befuddled state.

No.  But at least it is all crochet.  And I'm sure I've seen the stitch 
pattern at some point, like in a 1970s crochet-patterns book.  I just saw 
it in a shawl recently, somewhere.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: British food question
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 14:32:51 -0800
Status: RO


> > And we have the occasional British squash such as Ribena. (Yum. My
> > favorite, although you have to hunt to find it, usually only in
> > specialty stores and only the concentrate.)
> >
> > Mostly we just call ours "juice".
>
>Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange
>squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange
>flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C
>to convince you it's healthy.
>
>Still, it helps drown the taste of the fluoride in the tap
>water :)

Squash, to an American, is a vegetable like pumpkin or zucchini (there are 
10 or 20 different kinds available here in California).  Squash, to someone 
in the UK is the juice from a squashed fruit, plus water, sugar, 
etc.  Lemon squash (UK) = lemonade (US).


Kayta

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:37:42 EST
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In a message dated 12/5/2002 7:08:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
mangal.kalima@virgin.net writes:


> Well the Designers were 'creative' but it was a movie and not an 
> historical reenactment event based on fact.
> 

Ahhhhh...but is was billed as a sort of historical event...BRAM STOKER'S 
Dracula. Never forget that.

You are of course correct in thinking the clothes are beautiful. Alone they 
are. But as a design for a show they simply fail. Mina's [or is it Lucy?] 
wedding dress is a stunning costume. An intricate feast for the eyes. A 
beautiful Kabuki costume..... but what, other than being white, does it have 
to do with a wedding dress? And we have Dracula himself looking sometimes 
like an aging drag queen in a red Kimono with a beehive hair do [in 
Transsexual Traaaaaansivania!], next he's Leon Russell, Then he rises from 
the grave wearing a Klimpt painting. What is that? Where's the concept? It's 
just a jumble of a bunch of stuff the designer liked. It is bad design. Nice 
individual pieces, but bad design. Let her go do fashion. Leave the theatre 
to us.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 12/5/2002 7:08:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, mangal.kalima@virgin.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Well the Designers were 'creative' but it was a movie and not an 
<BR>historical reenactment event based on fact.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Ahhhhh...but is was billed as a sort of historical event...BRAM STOKER'S Dracula. Never forget that.
<BR>
<BR>You are of course correct in thinking the clothes are beautiful. Alone they are. But as a design for a show they simply fail. Mina's [or is it Lucy?] wedding dress is a stunning costume. An intricate feast for the eyes. A beautiful Kabuki costume..... but what, other than being white, does it have to do with a wedding dress? And we have Dracula himself looking sometimes like an aging drag queen in a red Kimono with a beehive hair do [in Transsexual Traaaaaansivania!], next he's Leon Russell, Then he rises from the grave wearing a Klimpt painting. What is that? Where's the concept? It's just a jumble of a bunch of stuff the designer liked. It is bad design. Nice individual pieces, but bad design. Let her go do fashion. Leave the theatre to us.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 21:19:05 -0600
Status: RO

Hi,
    playing catchup with digests again.  I'm from Missouri,  St. Louis area
to be more precise.  German background  on both sides of my family.

Genie

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 19:25:49 -0800
Status: RO

thanks all for the info.  He has a fencing outfit, including the face 
protector and jacket and everything.  I really was thinking more of a 
costume type traditional dress for dress up.

there are real parallels with Penny's son.  He also flunked Japanese last 
year and is a computer engineering major.  the flunking Japanese didn't 
seem to discourage him.  He comes home from UC Santa Cruz tomorrow and I 
can hardly wait.

maryann


At 07:59 PM 12/5/2002 -0500, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>On Thursday 05 December 2002 11:28 am, mabse@attbi.com wrote:
> > just a warning - my son had this same fascination, and now I am paying for
> > a college junior year abroad in Japan.  (and happy to do it, just want you
> > to know where it can lead).  He is also a fencer and is going to take
> > traditional Japanese fencing classes when he is in Japan.  I assume that
> > this is the same as a Samuri.  Does anyone have a reference for patterns
> > for traditional Japanese fencing garb?  I thought I would make him a
> > costume for his trip.
>
>As I notice some of the other list members have mentioned, martial arts 
>stores
>sell kendo uniforms that would be more appropriate for his purposes.
>
> > Would the Japanese have used linen or wool?  Or, were they pretty much
> > limited to silk?
>
>Modern kendo uniforms are made of cotton.
>
>To my knowledge, historic Japanese dress did not use linen at all (I have no
>idea if it grows in Japan or not, suspect the answer is "not.")  My
>recollection is that they didn't use cotton much either before about the 16th
>century.  Before then, the well off wore silk, the peasants wore hemp or
>ramie or other bast fibers.  I suspect that the only folk in Japan who wore
>wool traditionally were the Ainu (the Caucasian tribes in northern Japan).
>
>This is from my general costume reading.  I'm fairly but not 100% sure of the
>above.  There is a nice site on noble Japanese dress at
>
>http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/
>
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
>"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
>  --Flannery O'Connor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1851 model for Simplicity pattern - skirt,got it!
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 23:12:59 -0500
Status: RO

I think Marcus has hit the right line about the skirt shape being wrong.  I
would also question the bodice being attached to the skirt.  I have a tow
tiered silk skirt of this period that came with two bodices; one for evening
and the other is more for daytime.  One problem that I am having with these
new 'historical' patterns is in the long waisted bodice meant for the modern
body is usually out of proportion to the shorter waisted aesthetic of the
time.Hence, the pattern designed to fit now always looks strange when
compared with originals.  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "marcus findlay-arthur" <mangal.kalima@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 7:49 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 1851 model for Simplicity pattern - skirt,got it!


> Its like those Scarlett O' Hara collector dolls that were around a few
> years ago - the green muslin number that flares out to the ankles in
> rows of frills as I remember.
>
> In 1851 the crinoline wasn't actually available and women depended upon
> several layers of petticoats to achieve the bell shape.Thats the issue -
> the skirt doesn't 'bell' properly for the period.The fall of the
> petticoats,say some eight in all of various weights and fabrics would
> bloom out from the waist and at mid thigh measure would fall down to the
> floor in heavier folds,not flare smoothly.With the standard 18 yard
> measure in the hem line of a summer frock in taffetta or mouseline you
> get these fab,rich folds of fabric that whisper when moved by the wearer.
>
> Thinking back to the examples that I saw in the various South African
> museums when I was Victorian-mad and the Worth examples at the Met,this
> is a later pattern intended for a crinoline.
>
> The Simplicity pic spreads out almost conically like an 1861-1864
> silhouette.
>
> Do I envy you!!!
> A silk and paper 1840's bonnet!
> You should see the skill some of the later ribbon work used for floral
> decoration - astounding.You want to smell them in some
> instances.Really,really beautiful and of course lost with all the frou
> frou going on.
>
> The over skirt is also a later fashion feature and had something to do
> with the Pompadour craze which was later than '51 by a few years,five to
> seven years max,if I remember my fashion plates but I am open to
> correction on this point.For most of the 50's the skirt shape was
> bell,full and weighty around the feet.Sort of like a Lely or Van Dyke
> would be wrong without the folds.
>
> Marcus.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 00:04:23 -0500
Status: RO

<<<Perhaps you are considering this 
a "usable" mockup? >>>

        Actually, that is exactly what I am doing.  I don't want to cut
into the good stuff until I know if it will work.  And I had the pink
fabric for a decorating project that I changed my mind on.  Can't let
good fabric go to waste and, like I said before, I like pink.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 00:21:14 -0500
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<<<I want to archive these but really don't know what the hell to do.>>>

        First - Get them out of the attic!!

        Second - try to find some acid free tissue to wrap them in and
store them in a nice cool closet to prevent any further deterioration.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
----__JNP_000_684b.0241.087b
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<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; First - Get them out of the=
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 22:28:14 -0700
Status: RO

*sigh*....
Is it as beeyoootiful as it sounds? What are you going to make with it?
The American lady's outfit?
*sigh*.....;-)
--sue

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Guess what?
> I got 15 meters of sky blue Silk Taffeta from London today!!!
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 01:20:01 -0500
Status: RO

I am surprised on how the membership has dropped.  Years ago there were
about 800 members.  I guess with all various costume lists people went into
their our specialty.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Andy's Christmas Present
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 02:09:36 -0500
Status: RO

Maryann,

All my son's computer geek friends are into the Japanese culture and anime.

I have five sons and all dress differently. #1 son {26 y.o.} is a
businessman into preppy/professional wear, #2 son {21 y.o.} (artsy one) is
into Kramer/bowling shirts, #3 son {19 y.o.} into Japanese, #4 son {17 y.o.}
wears his Boy Scout camp shirts (he works at Boys Scout camp in the summer
and they give him a wardrobe) and the black t-shirts from his theater
productions, and #5 son {15 y.o.} wears funny t-shirts... his favorites are
Spam, can meat, t-shirts (his name is Sam and his brothers always called him
Spam.  He is a computer geek and likes being called Spam.)

And people think menswear is boring.  My husband wears at home, Grand Funk
Railroad and Denver Broncos t-shirts.  One day I am going to have a bonfire
with them!!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 08:10:29 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote: > I am surprised on how
the membership has dropped.  Years ago there were
> about 800 members.  I guess with all various costume lists people went into
> their our specialty.

I personally think that it also has a lot to do that this list has been prone
to flaming. I certaionly know a _lot_ of people who were on here and then ran
away, hurt or fearing they might say something wrong/unintelligent and
therefore they _never_ dared to post, never to return.
This has changed though I believe, has become a lot friendlier lately, maybe we
could coax them back?

Sorry, but I had to say this coz it's part of the truth.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dracula, was Re: JoAT Re: [h-cost]
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 08:15:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote: > 

> You are of course correct in thinking the clothes are beautiful. Alone they 
> are. But as a design for a show they simply fail. Mina's [or is it Lucy?] 
> wedding dress is a stunning costume. An intricate feast for the eyes. A 
> beautiful Kabuki costume..... but what, other than being white, does it have 
> to do with a wedding dress? And we have Dracula himself looking sometimes 
> like an aging drag queen in a red Kimono with a beehive hair do [in 
> Transsexual Traaaaaansivania!], next he's Leon Russell, Then he rises from 
> the grave wearing a Klimpt painting. What is that? Where's the concept? It's 
> just a jumble of a bunch of stuff the designer liked. It is bad design. Nice 
> individual pieces, but bad design. Let her go do fashion. Leave the theatre 
> to us.
>
*stomps foot and insists* NO I disagree with you, strongly, strongly, strongly.
The costumes, each and every of the 'strange' ones are utterly fantastic! Apart
from that, what about Mr Stoker himself and the group he was associated with? I
don't think the 'weird' costumes are out of place at all, and I hope she will
NOT leave theatre to everyone else and do fashion because I thought the
costumes were utterly STUNNING!

Nicole - who thinks disagreeing is great fun, especially in this 'oh so
pussyfooting around times'

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 03:44:58 -0500
Status: RO

I was saddened to hear membership has dropped so much.  My newsletter has
more members than what we have now.  H-costume used to be the largest
costume list.

I think the flame wars has a lot to do with it.  A lot of people have told
me this over the years.  People have said that they are scared to post a
question or answer one for the fear of being flamed.  I have run across a
lot of old members on other lists.

Others have said that they wanted to answer a question, but other members
jump in and answer quickly before they can post.  Maybe it is time for
another Lurker's Day.  Maybe this should be a monthly event.  Then we would
get to know everyone!  How about the third Wednesday of every month as
Lurker's Day.  I will volunteer to keep up with it.

I don't blame them for the fear.  I was flamed once years ago on this list.
I was shaken for a little while, but I haven't been flamed again.  I kinda
like putting out the flames.  No one knows everything, and my policy is...
there are no dumb questions.  We all had to start somewhere.  My somewhere
to start was on h-costume in 1996 as a student.  I still think it is the
best costuming list.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 10:48:34 +0100
Status: RO



Penny Ladnier wrote:

>  I still think it is the
>best costuming list.
>
I totally agree.
There is so much knowledge on this list.
And I get more and more interested in other periods than only the 15th 
and 16th century.

Greetings,
        Deredere



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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Fox tails, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:14:32 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I see that Sarah L. Goodman's article on Farthingales and
 Bumrolls.... at

 http://www.elizabethanlady.com/farthingales.html

includes a reference to foxtails being worn in much earlier periods
under the gown to improve the figure, and I have come across a number
of other references to this. However, I'm still baffled as to how this
actually worked, in practise,and would welcome suggestions.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 01:22:45 +1300
Status: RO

> I don't blame them for the fear.  I was flamed once years ago on this
list.
> I was shaken for a little while, but I haven't been flamed again.

heheh, well I've been in a situation that wasn't quite flaming, but I was
accused of flaming.. eh. I think it's part of the cons of text only
communication. Hense my recent asking of Nicole for what she meant;)

Funnily enough being bold enough to stand up for my beliefs (though
sometimes knowing when you've made your point and it's not doing any good to
labour the point can be difficult) has made me bolder IRL. At the LotR
picnic I had a guy say that my dress would have been better with boning.
Dork didn't know anything about costuming:
a) the original didn't. And I don't think there was any boned undergarment
(maybe somehting like what Liv wore, but it's clear from the way the costume
hangs on the form and wrinkles around the actress the dress isn't boned.
b) if we are looking at the bliaut as a possible "what this is trying to be"
style then no as well.

I told him no. He said "because you don't like it?" I said no, it's not
right for the style. And started talking about the history of the use of
whale bone and reeds;) Had it been a few years before I might well have
doubted myself. But being on a list where you can be flamed or have heated
discussions means you soon either become very determined or avoid
confrontation, perhpas by becoming insecure in your opinions.

 I kinda
> like putting out the flames.  No one knows everything, and my policy is...
> there are no dumb questions.  We all had to start somewhere.  My somewhere
> to start was on h-costume in 1996 as a student.  I still think it is the
> best costuming list.

Yep. Good range of views. And often even if you strongly disagree with
someone it helps you clarify why you believe something by having it
challenged. You may even change your mind.

And I also feel there is nothing the matter with being wrong. For example...
assuming whalebone actually was bone. It's an easy mistake if you are just
learning about the stuff. Ignore the people who belittle you for the mistake
but don't try and pretend the mistake didn't happen. If you see what I mean.
I don't mind admitting when I'm wrong, when it's somethine clear cut like
that and if it's not clear cut and something more subjective then I prefer
to be able to form my own opinions;)

michaela
using this as a test to see if nortons will scan my email. It's behaving
extremely oddly.

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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 08:17:26 -0500
Status: RO

*de-lurking*

Actually, the nasty flaming is exactly why I dont post anymore.  I sometimes do not
get my point across clearly, and do not say all I meant to because I am always in
somewhat of a hurry due to an insane schedule.  Also, I only get to check mail in
the early morning before work, and after work.  Those who post all day will move
onto a topic and you all know how conversations change.  The last time I posted
something here I got deeply flamed.  I argue enough in my day to day life (I work
in an accounting office and get in to.... 'discussions' with agencys like the IRS
and state tax authorities) so when I come home, I do not want to continue arguing.
Especially about something that is supposed to be relaxing and enjoyable.  BTW,
other list members took my viewpoint a year later and showed me to be correct
indeed....

*back into lurk mode*

Jenne

>
> I personally think that it also has a lot to do that this list has been prone
> to flaming. I certaionly know a _lot_ of people who were on here and then ran
> away, hurt or fearing they might say something wrong/unintelligent and
> therefore they _never_ dared to post, never to return.
> This has changed though I believe, has become a lot friendlier lately, maybe we
> could coax them back?
>
> Sorry, but I had to say this coz it's part of the truth.
>
> Nicole
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 14:19:43 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Justine Magill <philnstine@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > *de-lurking*
> 
> Actually, the nasty flaming is exactly why I dont post anymore.  I sometimes
> do not
> get my point across clearly, and do not say all I meant to because I am
> always in
> somewhat of a hurry due to an insane schedule.  Also, I only get to check
> mail in
> the early morning before work, and after work.  

Oh Jenne, don't go back into lurking, please? I know it isalways us same ones
who are posting/talking and I know I for one sometimes really do talk too much
(hey, can I help it that I feel so strongly about many things? *laughs*) but
that's also because we _are_ always the same ones posting. It would be
WONDERFUL if more people posted, it really would. 

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <005e01c29c93$55ae0a30$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711> <3DF0356E.C2D83049@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 16:00:37 +0100
Status: RO

Hi!
Yes that is right, the american lady from Denver.
It is a wonderfull colour and i wished i had time right now, then i would
have made myself a new embroidered suit!
Well it is good to have some things to do in the future also.
I just finished her stays today, mock up stays wich are to be send for her
to try, before i make any panier and dress mock up two.
What a work to make stays for large persons, it has 100 bones in it.
Boy am i glad they invented the sewing machine :-)
This time i want to try to make a new panier type.
I have ben glaring at Nicoles pictures from V&A of a panier shown with
stays, i think it would be very usefull for the dress i make.

Bjarne

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta


> *sigh*....
> Is it as beeyoootiful as it sounds? What are you going to make with it?
> The American lady's outfit?
> *sigh*.....;-)
> --sue
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > Guess what?
> > I got 15 meters of sky blue Silk Taffeta from London today!!!
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:04:07 EST
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In a message dated 12/6/2002 3:16:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:


> Nicole - who thinks disagreeing is great fun, especially in this 'oh so
> pussyfooting around times'
> 

Indeed....especially since there is no animosity between us. It's hardly a 
life defining cause.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 12/6/2002 3:16:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Nicole - who thinks disagreeing is great fun, especially in this 'oh so
<BR>pussyfooting around times'
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Indeed....especially since there is no animosity between us. It's hardly a life defining cause.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 07:08:11 -0800
Status: RO

N Kipar wrote:

> --- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote: > I am surprised on how
>> the membership has dropped.
>
>I personally think that it also has a lot to do that this list has been prone
>to flaming.
>

I had dropped off all the lists I read after sept 11, took me about a 
year to realize how much I missed reading them. Still, I mostly read, 
not post. Flames don't scare me a bit, I just don't have a lot to say!
I like to sew (duh!) and have been getting into the vintage (late 30s, 
early 40s) 'reprints' that vogue and butterick have been doing. Only 
gotten a few done, hopefully some more after the holidays. Have to alter 
every darn one to fit. Yeesh.
Am in the SCA, wear mostly late period Persian clothing, sometime 
earlier. Sometimes European medieval, sometimes late italian renaissance.
Will pick up Margo's patterns as soon as I can - will be nice to have a 
pattern to work from. Sometimes I get so tired of drafting my own!

off to classes

liz
lizyoung@fenris.net

>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yep Bjarne/Thanks for the wig link
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 16:13:27 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Duchesse!
Yes i will do that, the wig i have is much two full.
When you look at 18th century wigs they are not so full, only thin hair and
then those rolls.
But it surely is difficult to find a picture of one i like, i have
turned every page in all my costume books, but no one was like i wanted it.
I think i will look at Dangerous Liasions on the puter and then capture a
picture i like of Valmont and send to him, as the wig i want.

Bjarne


> Then I do suggest to contact derek, don't forget to mention that I sent
you,
> Nicole with the 1660s wig and the 1700 wig for the fontange and with ben's
1700
> periwig where the first one got thrown out by Colin mistakenly and we had
to
> shell out 300 quid for a second one. ;-) He'll know then... :-)))
>
> He's lovely, a pleasure to work with. expensive, but hey, quality doesn't
come
> cheap, and on top of it all he is SUCH a nice chap.
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 10:10:38 -0500
Status: RO

I know I have asked a lot of questions before so add this to my
curiosity.  Is there a list of recommanded reading for different periods
of clothing styles and construction?  I presently own a number of books
but I feel like I am missing something.  In creating a gown from a
pattern, whether its one of the big three or much to my delight Margo
Anderson's pattern, I seem to be lacking a common knowledge about the
construction.  Hard to explain this feeling of failing to achieve a
certain look due to my skimpy sewing skills. I see wonderful paned
sleeves on gowns that have a fullness that I can't recreate.  I have
searched my books and on line but no help.  I would like to have that
fullness on the upper half of the sleeves while the lower half is
narrow.  How did they do that?  I guess I am looking for tricks of the
trade.  If there is a book or some place to find this info could someone
point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance
Diana
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:15:44 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I'm curious--the pleats in the back of Holbein's lady and the breughel
painting are obviously very deep and pronounced, but I myself have been
unable to determine the specific pleating method used.  I've managed to
create similar wide, very rounded pleats by stuffing and then
box-pleating.  Though I have had to hand-sew the finished skirt top to
the finished bodice bottom like one does with cartridge pleats, as the
stuffed pleats were way too thick to sew through. Are you defining
cartridge-pleats as pleats that are sewn with multiple threads and then
gathered up, or as any pleats that aren't "folded under", like knife or
box pleats?

Looking at Holbein's woman (pic at
http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/bwlady-big.gif), I would recreate
that look with a skirt lined with a layer of batting.  Ditto for breughel
(one pic at
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/images/dance.jpg)


Smaller cartridge pleats show up in Italian dresses of the time (example
at http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1540_1.shtml).

I'd love to see that english dress.  I think I may have--is she wearing a
Queen-mary-type flattened hood, and is the dress a really stylized
long-fronted red velvet deal? Are the pleats smaller?

Thanks,

Drea

 >
> Cartridge pleats were used, as were knife pleats. They seem to have
> been used together at times. I don't have a URL but in the Holbein
> drawing of a lady (where he's done a front *and* a back view),  there
> are obvious large cartridge pleats in the back. Some of the Breugel
> paintings also show this. There's another picture of a English court
> lady in a red dress with navy blue brocade undersleeves which shows
> the cartridge pleats at the side. However, it appears that she has
> some flat pleats to transition the front part to the back cartridge
> pleats (like 2 on each side). Unfortunately, the book which has the
> best picture of this is hiding/lost right now.
>
> Kat Russell
> <kat@grendal.rain.com>
>
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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dracula, was Re: JoAT Re: [h-cost]
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 09:32:21 -0600
Status: RO

 >From: AlbertCat@aol.com

 >In a message dated 12/5/2002 7:08:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
 >mangal.kalima@virgin.net writes:

 >> Well the Designers were 'creative' but it was a movie and not an
 >> historical reenactment event based on fact.

 >Ahhhhh...but is was billed as a sort of historical event...BRAM STOKER'S
 >Dracula. Never forget that.

 >You are of course correct in thinking the clothes are beautiful. Alone they
 >are. But as a design for a show they simply fail. Mina's [or is it Lucy?]
 >wedding dress is a stunning costume. An intricate feast for the eyes. A
 >beautiful Kabuki costume..... but what, other than being white, does it have
 >to do with a wedding dress? And we have Dracula himself looking sometimes
 >like an aging drag queen in a red Kimono with a beehive hair do [in
 >Transsexual Traaaaaansivania!], next he's Leon Russell, Then he rises from
 >the grave wearing a Klimpt painting. What is that? Where's the concept? It's
 >just a jumble of a bunch of stuff the designer liked. It is bad design. Nice
 >individual pieces, but bad design. Let her go do fashion. Leave the theatre
 >to us.

I am so glad to hear someone else feels the same way about the costuming in this movie. 
None of it made sense to me.  Everytime I see the film I try to figure out what the 
costumer was trying to "say" about the characters.  I have always felt the clothing that 
an actor wears should be almost the characters skin. Whether it be a "period" piece or 
fictional, what a person sees on screen or stage, should be a visual clue to the character.

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions abook studies.
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:40:54 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Let's see: for the 16th c. (which I assume is what you're doing)  the big
three I use are Arnold's Patterns of Fashion and Queen Elizabeth's
Wardrobe Unlock'd, and Alcega's Tailor's Pattern Book.

For the fifteenth century, the books I use most often for figuring out
particular garments are Elizabeth Birbari's "Dress in Italian Painting
1460-1500", Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume, 14th & 15th
Centuries", Scott's "Gothic Europe 1400-1500" and Jacqueline Herald's
"Dress in Renaissance Italy 1400-1500".

Actually, Robin Netherton has given talks on aspects of 15th century dress
which blow all of the above out of the water...but none of them has been
published yet.  (Waaah!)

For the fourteenth century, pickings are depressingly slim. The Museum of
London's "Clothing and Textiles" book is the best thing out there for
showing actual garments and their construction.  There's Stella Mary
Newton's "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince", of course, but that
has very few pictures.  There are photographs of some 14th c. costumes in
History of Costume books, and the abovementioned Visual History of
Costume comes in handy...but this century isn't my specialty, so others
could probably give you better pointers on it.

Unfortunatly, a lot of costume details simply can't be described--you
need the items or up close photos of the items themselves,  to get a feel
for how they were made.

The specific issue of "getting the look" often has as much to do with the
materials used as with the construction techniques. If you make a sleeve
out of heavy wool, interlined with cotton-linen canvas and lined with a
nice stiff silk taffeta, it looks a world different than making the sleeve out
of a cotton brocade lined with a heavy linen or brushed cotton.

One thing that could help would be taking a theatrical costume
construction class.  Even though they deal mostly with modern techniques,
you do learn the detailed properties of textiles and how to manipulate
flat and draped patterns to achieve the look you want. It gives you a
wider arsenal of tools and experience with patterns to try and work out
just how a particular look was achieved.

I did get to examine a pair of early 17th c. paned sleeves a while back,
and wrote down the details of how the thing was put together.  I can
forward you the info, if you're interested.  (I didn't get to take photos
unfortunately.  :(

Drea

 On Fri, 6 Dec 2002, Dhannti wrote:

> I know I have asked a lot of questions before so add this to my
> curiosity.  Is there a list of recommanded reading for different periods
> of clothing styles and construction?  I presently own a number of books
> but I feel like I am missing something.  In creating a gown from a
> pattern, whether its one of the big three or much to my delight Margo
> Anderson's pattern, I seem to be lacking a common knowledge about the
> construction.  Hard to explain this feeling of failing to achieve a
> certain look due to my skimpy sewing skills. I see wonderful paned
> sleeves on gowns that have a fullness that I can't recreate.  I have
> searched my books and on line but no help.  I would like to have that
> fullness on the upper half of the sleeves while the lower half is
> narrow.  How did they do that?  I guess I am looking for tricks of the
> trade.  If there is a book or some place to find this info could someone
> point me in the right direction?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Diana
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 08:25:55 -0800
Status: RO

 I see wonderful paned
>sleeves on gowns that have a fullness that I can't recreate.  I have
>searched my books and on line but no help.  I would like to have that
>fullness on the upper half of the sleeves while the lower half is
>narrow.  How did they do that?  

This is assuming you are familiar with the basics of pattern making.  Start
with a sleeve sloper.  draw a horizontal line at the level where you want
the fullness to begin.  Slash along this line.  Then slash the upper part
of the sleeve into several vertical sections, and pivot them so that the
upper edges flare outward while the lower portions are still touching the
lower part at the sides.  Trace. Correct the side lines, to smooth curves
if you want the lowere sleeve to fit tight to the arm, or to straight lines
if you want a more triangular shape. You will probably want to increase the
height of the sleeve cap by as much as several inches, depending on how
much fullness you're adding.  Then draw in your lines where you want the
panes to be, slash along those lines, and add seam allowances.  

Clear as mud, no?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 11:19:28 -0500
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I joined in the early 90's, while I was working in Tennessee.  After I moved back to PA in the late 90's, I had some problems keeping subscribed.  I would subscribe and after a couple of weeks I would stop receiving digests.  After a couple of months of that I let the whole thing lapse.  I picked the list up again two years ago and haven't had any problems.  

I always learn a lot, I just don't talk a lot.

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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 12:04:35 -0500
Status: RO

I don't post - or post about anything substantial - because I don't want to look like an idiot.

I'm actually considered *fairly* knowledgeable about the particular time I'm interested in (1560s/70s) and technically "pretty good" as a seamstress.  However.  I'm an autodidact, not degreed, not published, and for the last couple of years too many 21st Century things have been clogging my life.  I don't have a web page.  I don't have the personal libraries available to me that some list members have, although mine is pretty respectable.  I have a boring, exhausting, full-time 21stC job that leaves me totally wrung out at the end of the day, although I'm working on changing that. (I also don't have a partner, so there is no one to share the job of day to day living/getting on with things - and believe me, that seems to make a huge difference.)  

I don't think I'm being overly sensitive here when I worry about mentioning that I'm trying out different shift patterns in good cotton cloth rather than linen.  Or that my last set of clothes was actually a mostly-synthetic wool blend that you wouldn't have known from real wool twill from an arm's length away.  The points aren't linen tape or silk ribbon - it was some grosgrain ribbon off the shelf at the fabric store that worked, and that I could actually afford to make into two dozen sleeve points.  My present set of stays are 1/4" steel bones (and have been since I made my first set in 1981) rather than reed because for a fat girl, it works, and they give predictable results.

My impression is at times, that folks (with notable exceptions) deal a little harshly with people who take 'shortcuts' (i.e., 1/4" steels in a 1570s pair of bodies, for instance) that were perfectly acceptable ten years ago.  Having done SCA costuming since the middle 1970s, the amount of good research material around now absolutely astounds me - things have come *so* far!  I'm glad to see the bar being raised, but sorry that it excludes so many honest attempts.  The perception seems that anyone who takes a whack at doing a period piece "should have known better" about the X, Y, or Z detail that they didn't get just right.  There doesn't seem to be any appreciation for a good try.

I don't know how far off my perception is, or if it's spot on.  This list does, like any, have it's share of know-it-alls, no matter what the subject or tangent.  I've learned to either ignore or laugh at them (I find at least one of them consistently entertaining, although some of her information is good, but I suspect it's really more of a personality issue I have with her, and no, she doesn't know me from anywhere, but she posts a great deal).  I'd like to jump in some times and offer my own experience, but just -- hesitate because I don't want to look like an idiot if I get it wrong, and get jumped on by people with better access to information, more education, and moreover *more time* to spend at this incredibly consuming, wonderful hobby of ours.  

I suppose, if someone who has a few pretty good suits of clothes behind her feels uncomfortable offering advice, where would this leave a novice?

Meagn 
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 09:07:15 -0800
Status: RO

Drea wrote:
> I'm curious--the pleats in the back of Holbein's lady and the breughel
> painting are obviously very deep and pronounced, but I myself have
> been unable to determine the specific pleating method used.  I've
> managed to create similar wide, very rounded pleats by stuffing and
> then box-pleating.  Though I have had to hand-sew the finished skirt
> top to the finished bodice bottom like one does with cartridge pleats,
> as the stuffed pleats were way too thick to sew through. Are you
> defining cartridge-pleats as pleats that are sewn with multiple
> threads and then gathered up, or as any pleats that aren't "folded
> under", like knife or box pleats?

I'm defining them as a pleat used to put in more fabric onto a 
specified edge than could be done with knife or box pleats without 
making it as bulky or unwieldy.

Also, many people think that cartridge pleats are only sewn on one 
edge (the top.) It really depends on the look one is going for. If 
you want them to hang down, you sew them only at the top. If you want 
to them to stand out some, you sew them at the top and bottom of the 
pleat. Where you place the pleat on the edge makes a difference too. 
Also, how much padding, where and how many gathering threads you use, 
etc.

When I teach this type of pleat in my cartridge pleating class, I 
have them sew down the whole upper edge of the "pleat" (usually it 
ends up looking like a figure 8 or a a circle with a flattened circle 
underneath it from the back side. (However, you can get away with 
fewer stitches than most of my students usually think you can. But 
that's the same with regular cartridge pleating where people can't 
believe that one or two stitches are enough to hold the thing and try 
to sew it down like it was a machine doing it. Can't do cartridge 
pleats by machine. It's a handsewing technique for a reason.)

I've not had a problem with sewing these pleats in at the top, 
despite their bulk. But it probably depends on where you put the bulk 
and what you are using for the bulk. I generally use a bouncy wool 
fabric meant for padding out men's jackets (not a regular fabric from 
the fabric store, but one from a tailoring supply store). If I need 
something stiffer, I'll use coating wool (as it doesn't have the same 
drape and hand as the tailor's wool.)
 
> I'd love to see that english dress.  I think I may have--is she
> wearing a Queen-mary-type flattened hood, and is the dress a really
> stylized long-fronted red velvet deal? Are the pleats smaller?

Yep. Sounds like the one I was speaking of. The pleats at the side 
are pretty large, however, not the smaller ones that Hunnisett shows 
or like you see on the Italian Renn dresses. More on the scale of the 
Holbein drawing and Breugel's peasants.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Japanese (was:Re: [h-cost] Andy's Christmas Present)
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:28:24 +0000
Status: RO

FWIW...

A friend of mine does 16th century Japanese in the SCA. When he won the 
Northshield tournament (an SCA Principality), he put up directions for 
making Japanese clothing for his Coronation. I made my clothing and my 
husband's using his directions - very easy. The website is:

http://www.raito.com/royalty/index.html

Mary/Katerine
>
>thanks all for the info.  He has a fencing outfit, including the face 
>protector and jacket and everything.  I really was thinking more of a 
>costume type traditional dress for dress up.
>
>there are real parallels with Penny's son.  He also flunked Japanese last 
>year and is a computer engineering major.  the flunking Japanese didn't 
>seem to discourage him.  He comes home from UC Santa Cruz tomorrow and I 
>can hardly wait.
>
>maryann
>
>
>At 07:59 PM 12/5/2002 -0500, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>>On Thursday 05 December 2002 11:28 am, mabse@attbi.com wrote:
>> > just a warning - my son had this same fascination, and now I am paying 
>>for
>> > a college junior year abroad in Japan.  (and happy to do it, just want 
>>you
>> > to know where it can lead).  He is also a fencer and is going to take
>> > traditional Japanese fencing classes when he is in Japan.  I assume 
>>that
>> > this is the same as a Samuri.  Does anyone have a reference for 
>>patterns
>> > for traditional Japanese fencing garb?  I thought I would make him a
>> > costume for his trip.
>>
>>As I notice some of the other list members have mentioned, martial arts 
>>stores
>>sell kendo uniforms that would be more appropriate for his purposes.
>>
>> > Would the Japanese have used linen or wool?  Or, were they pretty much
>> > limited to silk?
>>
>>Modern kendo uniforms are made of cotton.
>>
>>To my knowledge, historic Japanese dress did not use linen at all (I have 
>>no
>>idea if it grows in Japan or not, suspect the answer is "not.")  My
>>recollection is that they didn't use cotton much either before about the 
>>16th
>>century.  Before then, the well off wore silk, the peasants wore hemp or
>>ramie or other bast fibers.  I suspect that the only folk in Japan who 
>>wore
>>wool traditionally were the Ainu (the Caucasian tribes in northern Japan).
>>
>>This is from my general costume reading.  I'm fairly but not 100% sure of 
>>the
>>above.  There is a nice site on noble Japanese dress at
>>
>>http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/
>>
>>--
>>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>>
>>"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
>>  --Flannery O'Connor
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 09:35:58 -0800
Status: RO

>Also, many people think that cartridge pleats are only sewn on one 
>edge (the top.) It really depends on the look one is going for. If 
>you want them to hang down, you sew them only at the top. If you want 
>to them to stand out some, you sew them at the top and bottom of the 
>pleat. 

Actually, if you want them to hang straight down, you sew them at the
*bottom* of the pleat.  You're then left with the pleated section jutting
out like a little shelf, a look some people like but I can't stand.  

I sew my cartridge pleated skirts to my waistbands by sewing the top of the
pleat to the bottom edge of the waistband. This lets the pleated area
"hinge" onto the waistband so it can move a bit.  I've tried sewing both
top and bottom of the pleats to the waistband, but I found it pushed my
bodices up.  It might not be problem for everyone, but I'm short waisted
and high hipped, and need all the room there I can get.  

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:43:06 -0000
Status: RO

On 6 Dec 2002 at 12:04, Tudorldy@aol.com wrote:

> My impression is at times, that folks (with notable exceptions) deal a
> little harshly with people who take 'shortcuts' ....
>  There doesn't seem to be any appreciation for a good try.
> 
> I suppose, if someone who has a few pretty good suits of clothes
> behind her feels uncomfortable offering advice, where would this leave
> a novice?

Well it leaves this novice feeling fine, in fact, so 
don't worry too much. But that's because I *know* 
I'm a novice, and almost entirely ignorant. If people 
suggest that I've done something horribly wrong, this 
does not come as a surprise to me, and I don't take 
it as an insult, since they usually go to great pains to 
tell me how to do better next time.

Of course, they do all work on the assumption that I 
*want* to do everything as perfectly as I can. I'm 
happy with that, because it's usually true. If someone 
came on the list asking how best to disguise the zip 
in their Tudor dress, I can see them getting a reply 
they might not appreciate.



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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 12:00:40 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 6 Dec 2002, Drea Leed wrote:

> Let's see: for the 16th c. (which I assume is what you're doing)  the
> big three I use are Arnold's Patterns of Fashion and Queen Elizabeth's
> Wardrobe Unlock'd, and Alcega's Tailor's Pattern Book.
> 
> For the fifteenth century, the books I use most often for figuring out
> particular garments are Elizabeth Birbari's "Dress in Italian Painting
> 1460-1500", Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume, 14th & 15th
> Centuries", Scott's "Gothic Europe 1400-1500" and Jacqueline Herald's
> "Dress in Renaissance Italy 1400-1500".
> 
> Actually, Robin Netherton has given talks on aspects of 15th century
> dress which blow all of the above out of the water...but none of them
> has been published yet.  (Waaah!)

Well, that's a strong statement :-) A lot of what I have just supplements
what's in those books, or contradicts the existing findings on some very
specific points. I've only done one inroad in research in Elizabethan (on
the wheel farthingale), for instance, so outside of that topic I wouldn't
contradict anything else Arnold has said. (There might be problems, but I
wouldn't know them if I stepped on them.) I've done nothing in Italian, so
Birbari and Herald are safe from me ;-)

I have some quibbles with some of Scott's conclusions in Late Gothic
Europe -- I think that's the book in which I saw the theory that the
S-shaped Gothic posture was a result of women leaning back so their
breasts wouldn't fall out of their low-cut necklines. (Someone please tell
me I'm remembering wrong, and that this came from some other less-clued
author. Most of Scott's work is marvelous, and I use the Visual History
volume constantly for good images of primary art sources.)

Some of my lectures won't be published because making the point relies on
close examination of commonalities and trends in a copious selection of
visual images. Most journals won't consider putting 40 images into an
article, and copyright permissions for that quantity would cover my
family's budget for the next year. I have, though, posted summaries of
most of these talks to this list, and some are on my not-quite-a-webpage
at http://www.netherton.net/robin if that's of any help. I intend to get
some more text up there soon, mostly Q&As from people following up on
what's there, and more old h-cost posts on other topics.

> For the fourteenth century, pickings are depressingly slim. The Museum
> of London's "Clothing and Textiles" book is the best thing out there
> for showing actual garments and their construction.  There's Stella
> Mary Newton's "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince", of course, but
> that has very few pictures.  There are photographs of some 14th c.
> costumes in History of Costume books, and the abovementioned Visual
> History of Costume comes in handy...but this century isn't my
> specialty, so others could probably give you better pointers on it.

No, I think you've hit the high points. And the Museum of London books,
while gold mines in themselves, must be understood to be a slice of the
existing evidence, not a compendium of all known fact. There is,
apparently, much in the books that even the authors were not really sure
of (as one of them told me, in terms direct enough to take me quite
aback), and essentially all the interpretations of the evidence should be
taken as good guesses, but not final word.

> Unfortunatly, a lot of costume details simply can't be described--you
> need the items or up close photos of the items themselves, to get a
> feel for how they were made.

I would recommend that anyone pursuing study of a particular period/place
dive deeply into the artwork of the time, in as many media as possible.
Oversize art books are your friend; online research is a nice start but
online versions of art often lose detail. And read the text, too! It's
astounding how many people will base costumes on a single visual source
without learning about the painting, the people in it, the person who made
it, and the significance of various details shown. I have many times found
that a construction I was puzzling over most likely was the artist's
imagination, which certainly simplifies the question of "How did they get 
that effect?" I have at times referred to myself as a specialist on
garments that didn't exist.

> One thing that could help would be taking a theatrical costume
> construction class.  Even though they deal mostly with modern
> techniques, you do learn the detailed properties of textiles and how
> to manipulate flat and draped patterns to achieve the look you want.
> It gives you a wider arsenal of tools and experience with patterns to
> try and work out just how a particular look was achieved.

An addendum: If you're working before 1450-1500, you should forget nerarly
everything you learn in these classes. And in home ec. Fitting and sewing
techniques probably changed more between 1200 and 1600 than they did
between 1600 and today.

--Robin


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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: Japanese (was:Re: [h-cost] Andy's Christmas Present)
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 18:00:29 +0000
Status: RO

Err...just clicked on it myself, and it links to the main page. Click on the 
Projects link, then on the Japanese Clothing link. (BTW, he's the guy in the 
photo on the main page).

Mary/Katerine

>FWIW...
>
>A friend of mine does 16th century Japanese in the SCA. When he won the 
>Northshield tournament (an SCA Principality), he put up directions for 
>making Japanese clothing for his Coronation. I made my clothing and my 
>husband's using his directions - very easy. The website is:
>
>http://www.raito.com/royalty/index.html
>
>Mary/Katerine
>>
>>thanks all for the info.  He has a fencing outfit, including the face 
>>protector and jacket and everything.  I really was thinking more of a 
>>costume type traditional dress for dress up.
>>
>>there are real parallels with Penny's son.  He also flunked Japanese last 
>>year and is a computer engineering major.  the flunking Japanese didn't 
>>seem to discourage him.  He comes home from UC Santa Cruz tomorrow and I 
>>can hardly wait.
>>
>>maryann
>>
>>
>>At 07:59 PM 12/5/2002 -0500, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>>>On Thursday 05 December 2002 11:28 am, mabse@attbi.com wrote:
>>> > just a warning - my son had this same fascination, and now I am paying 
>>>for
>>> > a college junior year abroad in Japan.  (and happy to do it, just want 
>>>you
>>> > to know where it can lead).  He is also a fencer and is going to take
>>> > traditional Japanese fencing classes when he is in Japan.  I assume 
>>>that
>>> > this is the same as a Samuri.  Does anyone have a reference for 
>>>patterns
>>> > for traditional Japanese fencing garb?  I thought I would make him a
>>> > costume for his trip.
>>>
>>>As I notice some of the other list members have mentioned, martial arts 
>>>stores
>>>sell kendo uniforms that would be more appropriate for his purposes.
>>>
>>> > Would the Japanese have used linen or wool?  Or, were they pretty much
>>> > limited to silk?
>>>
>>>Modern kendo uniforms are made of cotton.
>>>
>>>To my knowledge, historic Japanese dress did not use linen at all (I have 
>>>no
>>>idea if it grows in Japan or not, suspect the answer is "not.")  My
>>>recollection is that they didn't use cotton much either before about the 
>>>16th
>>>century.  Before then, the well off wore silk, the peasants wore hemp or
>>>ramie or other bast fibers.  I suspect that the only folk in Japan who 
>>>wore
>>>wool traditionally were the Ainu (the Caucasian tribes in northern 
>>>Japan).
>>>
>>>This is from my general costume reading.  I'm fairly but not 100% sure of 
>>>the
>>>above.  There is a nice site on noble Japanese dress at
>>>
>>>http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/
>>>
>>>--
>>>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>>>
>>>"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
>>>  --Flannery O'Connor
>>
>>
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 10:19:43 -0800
Status: RO

> I think the flame wars has a lot to do with it.  A lot of people have told
> me this over the years.  People have said that they are scared to post a
> question or answer one for the fear of being flamed.  I have run across a
> lot of old members on other lists.

I have seen very little flaming on h-costume over the years.  Flaming is uncontrolled insults
made primarily for the sake of annoying people. A moderator can always keep a list from
becoming a flamesite, and the various h-costume moderators over the years have done a good job
of it.

I  have often seen people politely disagree with one another's views. There is no way to have
an intelligent discussion without this happening.  And it is unreasonable to expect everyone
to agree with you all the time.

However, I think you have hit on another, more likely reason for a decline in h-costume
membership.  When this group began ( I was a charter member), it was the _only_ historic
costuming mailing list.   And it stayed that way for years. Until Yahoo and other such vendors
set  up the ability for anyone to create any mailing list on any topic.  I myself am a member
of 91 Yahoo email lists either focused on costuming, or on reenactment or some other topic
related to costuming. Some of these lists are practically dead.  I have most of the others set
to "nomail," and I just occasionally look at the archived messages on the list's website.
But, that still leaves me getting lots of mail from other costuming lists.

There are also now some newsgroups that discuss costuming and reenactment, and some active
website "bulletin boards."  I read at least half a dozen of those from time to time. And then
there's the vintage clothing mailing list, which I think Eliz also moderates.  That too, BTW,
has much less traffic than before, even though it was never a list for flaming.

My point is that there are now many alternatives to h-costume.  It is not at all surprising
that h-costume would lose market share. And, without this indicating any flaw in h-costume.
Many people are only interested in costuming for one historic period. Others are only
interested in some specific type of costuming--stage costuming or managing a costume rental
shop, for example.  People who dislike weeding out dozens of messages that don't interest
them, gravitate to specialized lists that focus on their preferred topic.

I think h-costume has considerable value as a list covering many eras from many angles.  It
was never set up as a list for 100% accurate reenactors, or even reenactors, for those who are
worried about that. If you want to discuss your polyester repro or your stage costume, just go
ahead and post.  But I've run across quite a number of people who regard all information that
doesn't specifically apply to their five-year period of interest as useless.  Even with a
broad list like h-costume, you can't please everybody.

The other question I would raise is:  Is fewer members really a problem?  On most lists  most
members are lurkers.  And in fact, prefer to be lurkers.  It's not that they're too scared to
post.  Many are too busy.  Also, many people regard lists as consumers rather than producers.
Just the way they'd read a book or watch TV--they absorb the information but don't create it.
I'm not saying this is wrong, or that they have nothing to contribute. Just that on most lists
a small minority posts most of the messages.

But as long as h-costume is an active list and people _are_ actively posting messages--does it
matter if some people gravitate to other, more specialized lists?

Fran

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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 18:16:38 +0000
Status: RO

But you don't look like an idiot when you're posting about your own 
experience! I wasn't there when you made those stays, I can't tell you 
you're wrong when you talk about how they fit, and whether or not the 
project worked the way you wanted it to, or how comfortable it is. These 
pieces of information are indescribably valuable to me, at least.

Mary/Katerine
P.S. - my first stays are made with steel bones, and I love them! My second 
set are being made with cording because I want a different look. (And boy do 
I get teased about how long it's taking me to finish them! But I'm doing the 
last of it by hand, as that way is easier for me to "fudge" things than 
using a machine would. And they're portable, so I don't get much done on 
them at home - home is for the big projects.)

>
>I don't post - or post about anything substantial - because I don't want to 
>look like an idiot.
>
>I'm actually considered *fairly* knowledgeable about the particular time 
>I'm interested in (1560s/70s) and technically "pretty good" as a 
>seamstress.  However.  I'm an autodidact, not degreed, not published, and 
>for the last couple of years too many 21st Century things have been 
>clogging my life.  I don't have a web page.  I don't have the personal 
>libraries available to me that some list members have, although mine is 
>pretty respectable.  I have a boring, exhausting, full-time 21stC job that 
>leaves me totally wrung out at the end of the day, although I'm working on 
>changing that. (I also don't have a partner, so there is no one to share 
>the job of day to day living/getting on with things - and believe me, that 
>seems to make a huge difference.)
>
>I don't think I'm being overly sensitive here when I worry about mentioning 
>that I'm trying out different shift patterns in good cotton cloth rather 
>than linen.  Or that my last set of clothes was actually a mostly-synthetic 
>wool blend that you wouldn't have known from real wool twill from an arm's 
>length away.  The points aren't linen tape or silk ribbon - it was some 
>grosgrain ribbon off the shelf at the fabric store that worked, and that I 
>could actually afford to make into two dozen sleeve points.  My present set 
>of stays are 1/4" steel bones (and have been since I made my first set in 
>1981) rather than reed because for a fat girl, it works, and they give 
>predictable results.
>
>My impression is at times, that folks (with notable exceptions) deal a 
>little harshly with people who take 'shortcuts' (i.e., 1/4" steels in a 
>1570s pair of bodies, for instance) that were perfectly acceptable ten 
>years ago.  Having done SCA costuming since the middle 1970s, the amount of 
>good research material around now absolutely astounds me - things have come 
>*so* far!  I'm glad to see the bar being raised, but sorry that it excludes 
>so many honest attempts.  The perception seems that anyone who takes a 
>whack at doing a period piece "should have known better" about the X, Y, or 
>Z detail that they didn't get just right.  There doesn't seem to be any 
>appreciation for a good try.
>
>I don't know how far off my perception is, or if it's spot on.  This list 
>does, like any, have it's share of know-it-alls, no matter what the subject 
>or tangent.  I've learned to either ignore or laugh at them (I find at 
>least one of them consistently entertaining, although some of her 
>information is good, but I suspect it's really more of a personality issue 
>I have with her, and no, she doesn't know me from anywhere, but she posts a 
>great deal).  I'd like to jump in some times and offer my own experience, 
>but just -- hesitate because I don't want to look like an idiot if I get it 
>wrong, and get jumped on by people with better access to information, more 
>education, and moreover *more time* to spend at this incredibly consuming, 
>wonderful hobby of ours.
>
>I suppose, if someone who has a few pretty good suits of clothes behind her 
>feels uncomfortable offering advice, where would this leave a novice?
>
>Meagn
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 13:27:46 -0500
Status: RO

 
>>>I suppose, if someone who has a few pretty good suits of clothes
behind her feels uncomfortable offering advice, where would this leave a
novice?>>>
 
        Asking dumb and not so dumb questions, of course.  I have been
sewing almost all my life, but Medieval clothing is a bit different from
what I am used to (but then so were the Star Trek uniforms).  I recently
started a bit of a thread when I asked about pleating a Tudor gown that I
am making from totally inappropriate fabric.  The answers I got were
helpful and no one flamed me for making a pink polished cotton Tudor
gown.  If it works, I will make the same gown in the proper fabrics, but
Margo's wonderful Elizabethan patterns only go so far in helping with
Tudor clothing.  

        If we are to learn, we must ask questions.  If we don't ask and
don't have the Library of Congress at our fingertips, how do we get it
even close to right.  Everyone takes liberties with authenticity at one
time or another even if it is just sewing the garment with off the rack
poly/cotton thread.  The main point is to know the correct way to go even
if you don't follow it to the max.

        I got off the SCA garb list because there were too many
"authorities" with too little knowledge who were just looking to flame
others.  This list is much kinder, if a bit too windy at times.  

        Had to put my two cents worth in and add to the breeze.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:40:52 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I have mixed feelings about this list, but love it all
the same. When I first found it, I posted a bit in the
beginning, and promptly sounded like a silly ass. Some
of my assumptions were gently but firmly set straight
by more knowledgeable folks, and the challenges I
received forced me to take a closer look at my
beliefs. 

For instance, I'm the one who said, "I can't believe
women didn't wear underwear in the 14th century to
help with chafing." Boy, did THAT get examined. A good
friend and local costumer much more experienced than I
am, still brings it up (names deleted) in classrooms
as an example of the dangerous "Would Have" statement:
Unless you are a scholar on the entire
socio-politico-religico-economic state of a period,
try to avoid saying "They would have done x.." 

Anyway, I agree that there's an element of
one-ups-manship on this list, but that's hard to avoid
when there are folks who have toiled long and hard to
gain their knowledge through the years. I've learned a
LOT here, and I'll take the occasional snippy
correction if it means I'm going to learn where I'm in
error. This is not to say I'm a push-over -- sometimes
I'm not convinced.

In general, though, I don't provide information here
anymore unless I'm 100% air-tight sure about it,
because it WILL be challenged. That may be because
there's an unspoken hierarchy on this list -- some
folks aren't proven, and thus are challenged. Others
are known, and are sacrosanct (sometimes). Just a
thought. (Please don't shoot me.)

Tasha

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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 14:06:24 -0500
Status: RO

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One of the historical houses I assist with is expanding its costume/ =
education program. Since we are in a probable winter clime, there has =
been a request for 'head covers' to wear outside on the street...that =
will be warm. What are some of the credible resources that will best =
answer this problem.  I have some Fascinators from the mid 19th C and =
wonder if these knitted hoods might have been a rediscovery then, of an =
earlier time.Any thoughts?   Kathleen

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>One of the historical houses I assist with is =
expanding its=20
costume/ education program. Since we are in a probable winter clime, =
there has=20
been a request for 'head covers' to wear outside on the street...that =
will be=20
warm. What are some of the credible resources that will best answer this =

problem.&nbsp; I have some Fascinators from the mid 19th C and wonder if =
these=20
knitted hoods might have been a rediscovery then, of an earlier time.Any =

thoughts?&nbsp;&nbsp; Kathleen</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 19:07:37 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Tasha McGann <demontsegur@yahoo.com> wrote: > 
> In general, though, I don't provide information here
> anymore unless I'm 100% air-tight sure about it,
> because it WILL be challenged. That may be because
> there's an unspoken hierarchy on this list -- some
> folks aren't proven, and thus are challenged. Others
> are known, and are sacrosanct (sometimes). Just a
> thought. (Please don't shoot me.)

Huhm.. hmmm.. damn, you have a point. A good one. *scratches head*

Guess I better go and shoot myself instead. Dang. 

Nicole - bitchy blabbermouth ;-)

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hobbit feet
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 16:06:14 -0500
Status: RO



My quick scan of the EIGHT or so digests that came today don't show an
answer to the question, although I might have missed it. So here goes:

According to the DVD, it took nearly two hours to get the hobbits ready each
day, most of that for the feet. They did not wear the feet on days that the
shooting wouldn't show them (apparently, they had the shots worked out very
closely) and were very glad of those days! But some days they didn't get to
the shots showing the hobbit feet. Mr. Austin, who played Sam, kept track
and there were 50 such days. I would have kept track too!

There's all kinds of interesting stuff on the DVD. I highly recommend it.

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec  6 16:20:35 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Stunning 1870 Velvet Mantle/B.Altman Label
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 21:13:37 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Ebay has a 

'Stunning 1870 Velvet Mantle/B.Altman Label' at 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1901858292

which may be of interest...

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Kool Aid dyeing
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 16:34:01 -0500
Status: RO

<<<<<<Apparently, you can dye fabrics quite nicely with a mixture of
koolaid.
Not sure of proportions, etc.>>>..

    Still have a lot of messages to read, but 1 pkg. to 1 oz. of wool is the
proportion, and it needs to be heated.  It's quite colorfast.
    Do not apply a concentrated mix to your teenager's hair-----it's pretty
acid, and burns the skin.  I know someone who did.  Yes, it will color their
hair.

    Works on wool and animal based fibers, not cellulose based (cotton and
linen) very well.

    Just use a quart jar to try it-----dump in a pkg. of KoolAid, add water,
add fabric or fiber that's been washed to get out any oil, and set it in the
sun for a day.  Or oven on low, or other heat source.  Yes, microwave too,
short time.  Then let it cool in solution.
    If done right, the liquid left will be clear, the fiber having taken up
all the color agent.
    Rinse well.
Lots of colors to use, lots of fun!  Some of them turn out quite surprising,
not what you expected at all.  If it's too pale, use 2 pkgs.  The blueberry
makes a light aqua----or did last year.  They keep changing the names and
apparently the color content too.

Diane S.

Diane S.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 13:47:41 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

where did you get your taffeta?  I've been drooling over the sale
taffetas at Thai Silks -- they are only $11.20 US per yard right now.


> 
> Guess what?
> I got 15 meters of sky blue Silk Taffeta from London today!!!
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:22:04 -0500
Status: RO



Drea Leed wrote:

> 
> I did get to examine a pair of early 17th c. paned sleeves a while back,
> and wrote down the details of how the thing was put together.  I can
> forward you the info, if you're interested.  (I didn't get to take photos
> unfortunately.  :(
> 
 Drea  please do.   I thought about cutting two sleeve patterns in half 
and using a mutton sleeve top gathing it to the narrower sleeve ,adding
trim to cover the seam, laying the panes over the pouf and attaching the
panes with buttons or simlper stitches. I fear it will all cave in from
the weight of the panes.   I wonder if this would work if I used some
type of interfacing to keep the fullness?      


Diana
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:33:52 -0500
Status: RO

<<<Nicole - bitchy blabbermouth >>>

        But such a pretty one!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fox Tails
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:33:52 -0500
Status: RO

> Subject: Fox tails, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:14:32 -0000
> Hi all,
>
> I see that Sarah L. Goodman's article on Farthingales and
>  Bumrolls.... at
>
>  http://www.elizabethanlady.com/farthingales.html
>
> includes a reference to foxtails being worn in much earlier periods
> under the gown to improve the figure, and I have come across a number
> of other references to this. However, I'm still baffled as to how this
> actually worked, in practise,and would welcome suggestions.
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> The evidence is scanty.
>
> If we had more, of course, the evidence would be Of 'scanties'.
>
> Ahem, sorry, don't know what I was thinking.
>
> Here's what I found in a brief look through my books:

> The evidence is scanty.
>
> If we had more, of course, the evidence would be Of 'scanties'.
>
> Ahem, sorry, don't know what I was thinking.
>
> Here's what I found in a brief look through my books:

The evidence is scanty.
If we had more, of course, the evidence would be 'of "scantie"'.
ahem, sorry, don't know what i was thinking.

Here's what I found in a brief look through Fashion in the Age of the
Black Prince, by Stella Mary Newton:

Page 9, a quote from a chronicle of England known as Brut, covering the
years 1333 to 1377, in the section around 1344-6:

"And the women surpass the men in their clothing which is so tight that
they hand fox-tails under their dresses at the back to hide their arses,"
& degenerates into the usual blaming of every evil on clothing.

A later chronicler, John of Reading, probably relied on this source in his
own chronicle.

That is all that Ms. Newton could find.

Take it for what it's worth.

Ann in CT


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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:27:31 -0500
Status: RO



Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> This is assuming you are familiar with the basics of pattern making.  Start
> with a sleeve sloper.  draw a horizontal line at the level where you want
> the fullness to begin.  Slash along this line.  Then slash the upper part
> of the sleeve into several vertical sections, and pivot them so that the
> upper edges flare outward while the lower portions are still touching the
> lower part at the sides.  Trace. Correct the side lines, to smooth curves
> if you want the lowere sleeve to fit tight to the arm, or to straight lines
> if you want a more triangular shape. You will probably want to increase the
> height of the sleeve cap by as much as several inches, depending on how
> much fullness you're adding.  Then draw in your lines where you want the
> panes to be, slash along those lines, and add seam allowances.
> 
> Clear as mud, no?
> 

Margo its very clear. Honestly.  Makes more sense then what I was
envisioning.  I have learned not to use polyfill to make a sleeve puff
out. It manages to make the sleeve heavy which in turn pulls down on the
shoulder strap.  

Thank you,

Diana  -who is saying a thousand times over I can do this.
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 14:50:38 -0800
Status: RO

Byt the time I get this out, someone will probably have corrected me, but:

The 1851 dress is *not* supposed to be a Quinciniera dress - that's pattern 
7159.  I suspect that the yucky color scheme is mostly due to the timing of 
the release - that it came out in their Winter catalog, so they made it in 
vaguely Christmas-y colors.  If you look at the "front and back view" using 
the design viewer though, it looks as if the two dresses are from the same 
designer (based on how the design sketch has that peculiar barbie-head on 
it)...  So perhaps there was some intention of making it a second option for 
a quinciera dress.

-Laura the Geek.






On Thursday 05 December 2002 07:29 pm, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
  > In a message dated 12/5/2002 3:27:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
  >
  > distantdesigns@hotmail.com writes:
  > > That
  > > pattern is being sold as a 15th birthday spanish gown.  I can't spell
  > > that word, but it's a big deal on a girls big birthday to have a ball
  > > etc. and that is the advertising on this pattern.
  >
  > Ah! A quinciera dress!  That makes sense.  Interesting, though.  In 
these
  > parts, those dresses tend to be intense pastels (if there is such a
  > thing--you know, saturated lavender, pink, etc.)

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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 15:08:09 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I think that the decline in membership is due to
several issues.

When I first heard about H-Cost from someone on the
SCA-Garb list, I was being discouraged from
subscribing if I had any problems with flame-wars. The
impression at that time was that this list spent more
time flaming each other than not, and that to
subscribe on digest long enough to go through the
archives for what I wanted was the best way to go.

I didn't listen, and am glad.

Yes, there are a lot of heated discussions, and I've
watched some people whose advice I dearly treasured go
away, but I'm LEARNING.

Now that Yahoo and other groups are so prevalent, it
is very easy to have several groups which specialize
on a time period or culture--so people cut out more of
the general groups in order to have time to keep up
with those.

Real life:  simply keeping up with the bills or
children is bad enough...but then there are those of
you also running a business or researching things for
articles, books or lectures.  Some people seem to be
able to still post here and do all of those things,
others cannot.

I went the other route...dropped about 35 groups which
were specializing in certain cultures or time periods
(and other things) and kept this one for a general
overview of many more areas.  Of course, that leads me
to things like my package from Lavolta Press last
week, while I was at the LA garment district!  Instead
of concentrating only on 14th century Welsh, I'm
adding things that can only be worn somewhere else.

wolfcat (who is definitely glad it's friday!)



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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 16:12:34 -0700
Status: RO


Please repost the link to the SCA Japanese garb info?  Thanks!

					...eliz
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:42:19 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, My name is Ann and I am a lurker.

I come from a Renn Faire background.  My local faire (Georgia
Renaissance Festival) is not known for its authenticity, but I have
caught the urge to make my clothing better and more accurate.   I have
learned Sooooo much here, and laughed, and yearned, and learned.

I use H-Costume almost as I used to specialty magazines for a subjects
that I want to learn about.  When I have asked questions here, people
have always answered me politely and helpfully.  Of course, I never
tried to act as if I knew everything either!

Occasionally, a few people seem to be getting spiteful when they
disagree, but overall this is a very polite and kind group.  It isn't a
flame if someone disagrees, or wants to know your documentation.  I have
been on lists that were very nasty over beginners' questions, and were
haughty if you couldn't go to a certain museum to examine originals.
Sorry, I can't afford to travel that way. Even the hierarchy here is one
of earned position. 

Also, I don't have time to sew for the past several months, and this is
a very busy list sometimes. I often don't read this list for 2 or 3
days.  There were over 160 messages when I started reading this evening
(less than 48 hours since I last read).

Back to lurking, cheerfully.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lalah T Tillinghast
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 1:28 PM
 
        Asking dumb and not so dumb questions, of course.  I have been
sewing almost all my life, but Medieval clothing is a bit different from
what I am used to (but then so were the Star Trek uniforms).  I recently
started a bit of a thread when I asked about pleating a Tudor gown that
I am making from totally inappropriate fabric.  The answers I got were
helpful and no one flamed me for making a pink polished cotton Tudor
gown.  If it works, I will make the same gown in the proper fabrics, but
Margo's wonderful Elizabethan patterns only go so far in helping with
Tudor clothing.  

        If we are to learn, we must ask questions.  If we don't ask and
don't have the Library of Congress at our fingertips, how do we get it
even close to right.  Everyone takes liberties with authenticity at one
time or another even if it is just sewing the garment with off the rack
poly/cotton thread.  The main point is to know the correct way to go
even if you don't follow it to the max.

        I got off the SCA garb list because there were too many
"authorities" with too little knowledge who were just looking to flame
others.  This list is much kinder, if a bit too windy at times.  

        Had to put my two cents worth in and add to the breeze.


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Current Projects Was how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 18:24:55 -0500
Status: RO

I prefer to look at the bright side of things.  This list is a great source of
information and sources.  Truthfully I dont post often cause I am a busy girl!
LOL So, in my copious amounts of spare time, I will at some point complete my big
projects.   My current projects are as follows:

A floor length green silk houppeland, lined with black silk and with long dagged
sleeves for my local group's Knight Marshal (sca group) as a thank you for help
with leather work

A new arming cote for the head of my household of linen and quilted (admittedly
machine quilting, but hey, I have only so much time and he needs this soon)

Reworking the german renn gown my sister made for me - it is a cranach style gown
with a standing collar.  It needs lining with horsehair interfacing to make the
collar stand and to prevent the front from buckling when I sit.  I also need to
create the hat that goes with the gown.

A Elenora of Toledo dress as found in the Janet Arnold pof.  I am currently
creating the undergown which will be of an ivory silk, with a built in corset.  I
know there is no evidence of a corset built into the gown but my sister needs the
support.  And making it part of the undergown will be easier for her.  This
project will use heavy linen and reeds for the boning, and is going to be hand
sewn completely.  I need to fit the mock up/ muslin/ sloper/ toille/
what-ever-you-want-to-call-it to my sister.  When that is done, the stitching will
commence.

The overdress for the above gown, will be made of crimson duchess satin (the
colors are reversed, in the original gown the ivory was on the outside, and the
crimson was the undergown, my sister looks better in crimson) with the embroidered
guards following the pattern outlined in the Janet Arnold book.  I have black
cotton velvet for the embroidery.  I am still trying to decide how I am going to
finish the edges of the embroidery when I do the cutting away of the velvet as was
done on the original.  I think they mentioned wax, I am not sure I want to do
that.  I am considering a bath of diluted elmers glue.  This entire dress is going
to be hand done as well.  This is my practice piece.

The next dress will be a few years coming, but I am working on making myself a
Pheonix gown.  I need to talk to someone about metal casting, either learning it
for myself or doing the sculpting of the wax molds for them so I can replicate the
jewelry.  I am analyzing the blackwork pattern in the partlet, and I am teaching
myself bobbin lace so I can create the ruffs.  I need to find appropriate velvet
for this gown as well.  Unfortunately, I will have to go with glass pearls for the
gown, unless I get a bit crazy and buy pearls a bit at a time.  It will be a
while, but this gown is what the elenora of toldeo gown is the practice piece for.

As always, I am available to the members of my shire for whatever sewing needs
they have, either to help them with problems or other things, so projects come and
go around here.  This is the laundry list so far!

so, as you can see, I am a tad busy, what with going back to college for my degree
and all.

Jenne

N Kipar wrote:

>
> Oh Jenne, don't go back into lurking, please? I know it isalways us same ones
> who are posting/talking and I know I for one sometimes really do talk too much
> (hey, can I help it that I feel so strongly about many things? *laughs*) but
> that's also because we _are_ always the same ones posting. It would be
> WONDERFUL if more people posted, it really would.
>
> Nicole

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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 18:29:06 -0500
Status: RO

Ann, I frequent the GRF too!  Didn't make it there last year due to it
only being open in the spring....do you know why they quit opening in
the fall? 

 Anyhow I'm a lurker, not because I fear flaming but because y'all are
so much more knowledgeable than I am in practically everything.  I don't
always read 100% of the email but there are many discussions that
capture my interest.  I don't have a particular time period I'm
interested in, it ALL interests me.  So keep on discussing!!

Jamie


-----Original Message-----

Hi, My name is Ann and I am a lurker.

I come from a Renn Faire background.  My local faire (Georgia
Renaissance Festival) is not known for its authenticity, but I have
caught the urge to make my clothing better and more accurate.   I have
learned Sooooo much here, and laughed, and yearned, and learned.

I use H-Costume almost as I used to specialty magazines for a subjects
that I want to learn about.  When I have asked questions here, people
have always answered me politely and helpfully.  Of course, I never
tried to act as if I knew everything either!

Occasionally, a few people seem to be getting spiteful when they
disagree, but overall this is a very polite and kind group.  It isn't a
flame if someone disagrees, or wants to know your documentation.  I have
been on lists that were very nasty over beginners' questions, and were
haughty if you couldn't go to a certain museum to examine originals.
Sorry, I can't afford to travel that way. Even the hierarchy here is one
of earned position. 

Also, I don't have time to sew for the past several months, and this is
a very busy list sometimes. I often don't read this list for 2 or 3
days.  There were over 160 messages when I started reading this evening
(less than 48 hours since I last read).

Back to lurking, cheerfully.

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions abook studies.
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 08:57:49 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:10 AM -0500 12/6/02, Dhannti wrote:
>I know I have asked a lot of questions before so add this to my
>curiosity.  Is there a list of recommanded reading for different periods
>of clothing styles and construction?  I presently own a number of books
>but I feel like I am missing something.

If there isn't, it would certainly be a useful resource.  It can't 
possibly be complete -- there are periods for which there simply 
aren't good resources; and it can't possibly be definitive -- there 
will always be very fuzzy dividing lines between "very useful 
background material" and "misleading enough that it should be used 
only by experienced researchers".  But it would be interesting to see 
a composite, annotated list of books for various eras for which 
people take the position "I can't imagine doing anything in this era 
without being familiar with this book".

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cartridge pleating (was Tudor question)
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:42:55 -0600
Status: RO

I'm having a hard time imagining how this works. I usually have a hard time
trying to imagine what some technique looks like without a picture attached
;-) Could you try explaining it again? Or do you have pictures/sketches of
this technique?


> Also, many people think that cartridge pleats are only sewn on one
> edge (the top.) It really depends on the look one is going for. If
> you want them to hang down, you sew them only at the top. If you want
> to them to stand out some, you sew them at the top and bottom of the
> pleat. Where you place the pleat on the edge makes a difference too.
> Also, how much padding, where and how many gathering threads you use,
> etc.

Re: lurking - I've been on this list for awhile now (three years? four?) but
still mostly lurk around the corners. While I too have done some fairly nice
garments, especially for my husband, I don't have confidence in my tailoring
skills. I feel like I'm just not getting the little details right that make
the whole outfit look like it jumped out of a portrait. And I *know* I
haven't researched and read as much as some people on the list in my
currently chosen area (Elizabethan). So, I hang out, absorb everything that
goes by, ooh and aah over everybody's pictures (and hope that one day I,
too, will have either a digital camera or a scanner so I can show off too!)
and generally learn as much as possible. :-)


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 15:46:26 -0800
Status: RO

> Even the hierarchy here is one
> of earned position.
>

There is zero need for any hierarchy on a mailing list.  I personally just
ignore the whole issue and say whatever I want to whoever I want.

Fran

--------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Huge picture of Arwen without correct underpinnings
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:45:03 +0000
Status: RO

Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net> wrote
>chiara wrote:
>> That is not a bra strap silly. :)
>>  That is the underdress. You can see that there are three layers to 
>>this
>> dress. Two blue, one cream. The thing you are seeing is the top of the last
>> layer. :)
>
>       Actually, it is a bra strap. We thought for a while it might 
>have been tape - but it's not. And the dress is actually steel grey 
>(they do a lot of color tweaking). She has three dresses that are this 
>same 2 layered style, with variations on the sleeves; and another 2 
>that are very similar but only single layer. This is apparently her 
>"Human" style of clothing as opposed to her Elvish styles.
>
Well, there's your answer.  I was sure Elves didn't need bras, but 
obviously the human element can get a bit droopy ;-)

Jean

>       BTW, Stevie, you didn't see it in the movie because it's not a 
>dress from FotR, it's briefly in the new one. There have been a few 
>pics of it around including the one where she's dropping her cape.
>
>
>       -Judy Mitchell
>http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:48:51 +0000
Status: RO

Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> wrote
>On 4 Dec 2002 at 15:52, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
>
>> Jane wrote:
>> > Sadly, most British squashes aren't juice. "Orange
>> > squash" is usually orange food colouring, orange
>> > flavouring, half a ton of sugar, and added Vitamin C
>> > to convince you it's healthy.
>>
>> Ah! We call that Kool Aid here across the pond. 8)
>
>Well, that explains a mystery. I'd heard of that, and
>assumed it was a dressing for burns :)
>
>If we call something "juice", it's juice.

Nope.  Here in Scotland, all approximately fruit-flavoured drinks can be 
"juice" - just like in Manchester, all sweets can be "toffees".  We have 
fizzy juice and diluting juice, as well as "real" juice.

Jean


>Mainly,
>anyway. Take fruit, and squeeze. Maybe add sugar,
>preservatives, colour, if it's going in a long-life
>carton, but the main content was once fruit.
>
>"Juice drink" would be a watered down version of the
>above. ("contains at least 10% real orange!")
>
>Then you get squashes with added juice.
>
>And at the bottom of the ladder, just "squash". Don't
>go there.
>
>BTW, the colourings used in the cheaper drinks stain
>cloth quite badly. But they're not fast enough to be
>used as dye, AFAIK. (There, costume content!)
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] The list, flaming...etc...
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:47:35 -0600
Status: RO

I have been on this list since late in its first year.  It's true there used to be a lot 
more people on it, with a lot more diverse, ideas, and opinions.  I have never been 
personally flamed, but I think I was once out-referenced and out-curriculum vitaed by 
someone... they had absolutely no problem using wording, and attitude to convey their 
opinion that I was a bit underclass to be saying anything. It was never anything outright, 
but definetely implied.  I actually did stop posting or reading the list after that for 
awhile.
Then I decided to the contrary, I had things to talk about.  And even at my infantile 
historic costuming level I could contribute, if nothing more than to get conversations 
started. And I have learned an enourmous amount.  As have others that have stuck around. 
Not all of the people that are now considered "experts" on this list were experts when 
they first came on, they were and still are students in many ways.
I can remember Penny as a hyper college student (she is still hyper):D, Drea was just 
beginning her in-depth studies of Elizabethan clothing, and many others just beginning in 
their journey.

I joined this list, not to become a historian, but to learn what was historically 
accurate, so I could teach others how to fake the look in an affordable way. I still 
suggest less than historic procedures on some stuff.  And it usually gets a "response" or 
rebuttal, which is ok with me.

I think it is a shame that some people left, because a few do get a little over 
enthusiastic in their passion for accuracy.   But that was and is their choice.


-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 15:57:59 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Sometimes I wonder if this list is really all about english/american/aussie/
etc etc etc translation... it seems every month the topic erupts Yet Again
of "what do YOU call that?" and it's usually not even sewing or costume
related.

I've been on the list almost ten years now, and I am still regularly amazed
how much that pops up.  that, more than any flaming that has ever happened,
is the only thing that's made me want to leave.  I just kind of shake my
head and go "that again?" and delete the next 100 - 150 messages from the list.

But, it's a discussion list, and I guess that's what we like to discuss.

*ducking before she gets flamed*

.heather.meadows.



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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queries about coifs, biggins and headrails
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:53:10 +0000
Status: RO

"Headrail" is a word I only use for early medieval, for a large 
rectangular bit of cloth, fixed in whatever way around your 
head/neck/shoulders.  I go over to "veil" for more specific, shaped 
things, particularly where they don't wrap around.  But most of these 
distinctions are modern.  I haven't a clue what might have been termed a 
headrail in Elizabethan times.  I can't picture anything _big_ enough in 
Elizabethan headgear.

Jean



Joy Shillaker <joyshillaker@hotmail.com> wrote
>I wonder if any Elizabethan costumers could help me please.
>
>Is there a difference between a biggins and a coif and if so what is it?
>
>Does anyone know of any pictures of headrails? or, (fingers crossed) 
>extant head rails?
>
>regards
>Joy Shillaker
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* 
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 19:45:36 -0500
Status: RO

Hey, Nicole,
What does this lamp look like, and where did you get it?  Sounds _very_ 
interesting!

-- Mara


At 02:01 PM 11/30/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Nicole - about to fix the new ceiling lamp: a 'copy' of those Flemish 17th
>century brass ones. *G*

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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 20:04:10 -0500
Status: RO

At 04:18 PM 12/1/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm wondering, for instance, about the reds.  Now, we've been
>experimenting with natural dyes lately (it seems to be the newest "in
>thing" in my local SCA group), and have gotten some wonderful reds and
>rusts and such with various period-appropriate dyes and mordants and
>fibers, but not that eye-popping cherry-red.  Darn....memory just kicked
>in.  I have seen one extant textile (a cut-and-voided velvet) with a red
>that cherry-colored.  Later time period, though (16th c.).

The pre-Columbian (i.e, before Christopher Columbus made his voyage) insect 
dye that would get you a cherry pink would be kermes, which was pretty 
scarce and expensive.  I think there's another insect dye -- St. John's 
something or other, it's in one of my books -- that does the same thing, 
but again, scarce and expensive.  Liles says you can get a garnet red with 
madder root, but you have to add lots of calcium, and it's still not that 
cherry red color you're talking about; I'm guessing it would still have 
that rust undertone that you usually get from madder.


>Also, despite what seems like an infinite variety of yellows and greens,
>I don't see many in pictures...were they painted less often because they
>were more common (and hence, less desirable?)? or because it wasn't as
>easy to achieve those colors in certain media?

Because yellow is one of those dyes (and paint colors) that fades over 
time, I'd guess...  That's one of the 'myths' of 18th century 
costume.  I've heard of people being told that 'green isn't period' -- 
well, actually, it IS, it's just that by the time that Indian block-printed 
textile gets to us, the greens have faded to blue because the yellow dye 
has faded.

- Mara

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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:12:12 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO



Greenberg and Hammer is finally online -- looks like their
online store isnt' all there yet, but the corset supplies are
up.

yay!

http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/

now if they'd get their patternmaking supplies online, i'd be thrilled.

.heather.

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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 20:36:32 EST
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I've been on this list off and on since the beginning.  I used to post quite 
a bit in the old days but now that I've got a toddler to chase around the 
house it's all I can do to keep up with reading email, much less writing it.  
That's my excuse.  ;-)

I do think Fran had a good point though about this list not being a list for 
"100% historically accurate reenactors."  I know this may come a surprise to 
some but...not everyone is trying to be historically accurate all the time!  
We have different reasons for doing this - theater, fashion design, 
role-playing games, Halloween/costume parties, movie recreations - are just a 
few of the examples I can think of where historic *authenticity* may not be a 
goal at all.  

I like to think of this list as a list about historic costume in all its 
permutations -- from poly satin flapper dresses with rayon fringe to silk civ 
war repros and everything in between. That's the gamut I run anyway!

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
I've been on this list off and on since the beginning.&nbsp; I used to post quite a bit in the old days but now that I've got a toddler to chase around the house it's all I can do to keep up with reading email, much less writing it.&nbsp; That's my excuse.&nbsp; ;-)<BR>
<BR>
I do think Fran had a good point though about this list not being a list for "100% historically accurate reenactors."&nbsp; I know this may come a surprise to some but...not everyone is trying to be historically accurate all the time!&nbsp; We have different reasons for doing this - theater, fashion design, role-playing games, Halloween/costume parties, movie recreations - are just a few of the examples I can think of where historic *authenticity* may not be a goal at all.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
I like to think of this list as a list about historic costume in all its permutations -- from poly satin flapper dresses with rayon fringe to silk civ war repros and everything in between. That's the gamut I run anyway!<BR>
<BR>
Cheers,<BR>
<BR>
Loren Dearborn<BR>
marionetta@aol.com<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queries about coifs, biggins and headrails
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 19:55:39 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:32 AM -0800 12/5/02, Margo Anderson wrote:
>At 09:24 AM 12/05/2002 +0000, Joy Shillaker wrote:
>>I wonder if any Elizabethan costumers could help me please.
>>
>>Is there a difference between a biggins and a coif and if so what is it?
>>
>the way I classify them, is that the biggins is the baby bonnet shaped
>item, usually with a strap or ties under the chin.  The coif is the one
>that has a point on the forehead and sides that curve in at the cheeks.
>
>However, I don't know that the distinction was there in the period.  In
>fact, I think it's likely that "coif" meant any number of styles of closely
>fitted headwear, rather the way we use "cap" today.

And furthermore, one of those items is a *BIGGIN*. (No "s" at the end.)

Renaissance Faire folklore persists in referring to it with the "s" 
ending due to a long-ago misunderstanding of some sources. (Or at 
least so says our local Costume Goddess -- I haven't checked the 
Oxford English Dictionary.)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 21:35:32 -0500
Status: RO

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Here is a new topic for consideration: With the Twentieth Century =
getting further behind us, and it was a century when fashion designers =
became Known in their own right, who impresses you or has influenced =
your own design interpretations and what influence will they make in the =
ever evolving world of Historical Costuming. Anne Hollander in "Seeing =
Through Clothes" makes the case for fashion of any age being re =
interpreted subsequently in terms of the current mode of aesthetics; ( =
and this can certainly be observed in the 20th C ideas pursued by the =
movie mogul designers, as well as any time the Fashion runways quote the =
fads and fancies of the past.)   {Another semi-lurker, Kathleen M...A =
list observer since the early 90's.]=20

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Here is a new topic for consideration: With the =
Twentieth=20
Century getting further behind us, and it was a century when fashion =
designers=20
became Known in their own right, who impresses you or has influenced =
your own=20
design interpretations and what influence will they make in the ever =
evolving=20
world of Historical Costuming. Anne Hollander in "Seeing Through =
Clothes" makes=20
the case for fashion of any age being re interpreted subsequently in =
terms of=20
the current mode of aesthetics; ( and this can certainly be observed in =
the 20th=20
C ideas pursued by the movie mogul designers, as well as any time the =
Fashion=20
runways quote the fads and fancies of the past.)&nbsp;&nbsp; {Another=20
semi-lurker, Kathleen M...A list observer since the early=20
90's.]&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail 
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 18:10:28 -0800
Status: RO

Bjarne, since you popped up, perhaps you would know the answer to this
question.  I just got my copy of "Fashion" from KCI and the pictures of
dresses from your period are STUNNING!  Most of them have what appears to be
pinked ruching, or gathered self "ribbons" made of the dress fabric all up
and down the fronts of the dresses.  The unfinished edges of the fabric that
has been pinked or otherwise cut are still nice and clean.  How does that
work?

I cut fabric with pinkers and sometimes it still frays, particularly over
time. I use fray check in theater, but obviously that did not exist back
then.  What kept the pinked edges neat?  Better fabrics? A certain weave?
Something I'm missing?

Anyone with any knowledge may certainly pipe up.  It's a marvelous book.
Thanks to the original poster for mentioning it was available.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 11:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta


> Guess what?
> I got 15 meters of sky blue Silk Taffeta from London today!!!
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The list, flaming...etc...
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 19:18:26 -0800
Status: RO

Well, let's see, I think my first comment after lurking around on this list
for a month or two was to proclaim that linen was dyed from 1st century AD
and what a response I got from that one!  I suppose I could have taken it
personally and unsubscribed,  but I happen to know a bit about the existance
of 14th century coloured linen so I attributed the comments I received as
extream stupidity.  I  have since learned that it pays to read all the
threads in a subject before commenting as the discussion changes and the
question one thinks they are answering is no longer the question at hand.
And I must say, that I had not ever thought about linen's use as an outer
garment seriously having done living history in hot and humid Brisbane where
it was our fabric of choice, so I was thankful that the discussion took
place.  But, if I had received such a reception when I first started
costuming it would have put a real damper on my enthusiasm.  This is a great
hobby and those just starting out should be encouraged which I do see
happening here.   I think the idea of a novice day or question is great.

Cheers,

Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com



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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:01:29 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:40 AM -0800 12/6/02, Tasha McGann wrote:

<snip>

>In general, though, I don't provide information here
>anymore unless I'm 100% air-tight sure about it,
>because it WILL be challenged. That may be because
>there's an unspoken hierarchy on this list -- some
>folks aren't proven, and thus are challenged. Others
>are known, and are sacrosanct (sometimes). Just a
>thought. (Please don't shoot me.)

I think there's plenty of room for posting things that one isn't 100% 
air-tight sure about -- I think it's just a matter of distinguishing 
the different types of information clearly.  People might get  riled 
up if one posted, "Peasants in Lower Slobovia wore socks on their 
heads" whereas a posting along the lines of , "I've seen some 
illustrations of peasants in Lower Slobovia with something on their 
heads that looks remarkably similar to a sock" might provoke an 
enthusiastic thread about hat construction and Slobovian footwear 
styles.

My experience -- on this as well as other lists -- is that you aren't 
entirely off-base on the "unspoken hierarchy" observation, but I 
don't see it as a sinister plot. :)  If person X has a history of 
providing verifiable support and well-reasoned arguments for their 
statements and conclusions, then they're likely to be cut more slack 
if they pop off a random comment without supplying the full support 
and arguments (although a person of this sort is also generally happy 
to supply them when time allows if asked), and similarly, person X is 
likely to be given a bit more credence if they come up with an 
unusual theory or explanation if they have a past history of 
demonstrating well-constructed and solidly-based theories.  If said 
person X trades on this tendency too heavily, they're likely to lose 
that status, so it's a fairly self-regulating system.  If they stop 
putting out, they stop being cut the slack.  (I tend to be aware of 
this dynamic because there are a number of subjects, on various 
lists, where I get cut far more slack than _I_ think I ought to be, 
and I try to be very careful about _not_ getting lazy about supplying 
the backup information and reasoning.)


Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 19:13:53 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:04 PM -0500 12/6/02, Tudorldy@aol.com wrote:
>[snipping much articulate discussion]
>...My impression is at times, that folks (with notable exceptions) 
>deal a little harshly with people who take 'shortcuts' (i.e., 1/4" 
>steels in a 1570s pair of bodies, for instance) that were perfectly 
>acceptable ten years ago.

I know quite a few of the people on this list, and I think you're 
only partly right about this. It's true that we have quite a few 
people who start out assuming that people are trying for 
authenticity. Partly I think that's due to the natural human tendency 
all of us have to think that everybody else is "just like us" <g>.

It also seems to me quite likely that the focus of the list has 
gradually shifted in that direction, due to the great progress that 
has been made in knowledge over the last decade or so.

However if anyone is concerned about possible criticism for 
"shortcuts", there's a way to avoid most of it. Just mention, "I know 
this isn't absolutely authentic, but it's what I can get (or afford, 
or do, or have time for) right now." Those with _good_ manners, at 
least, will be much more likely to speak kindly and provide help in 
doing what you _can_ do in the best way possible.

You'll have seen this happen, for instance, with a few recent 
listmembers who have posted about costuming high school plays with 
zero budgets, or what to dress an elementary school student in for a 
special theme day. People who are willing to explain what they're 
doing _do_ get advice along the lines they're working on.

I think the rudeness, most of it totally unintentional, comes purely 
and simply from posters rushing in to advise without fully 
understanding the parameters within which the other person is 
working. We can probably all do a bit better about _explaining_ up 
front what we're aiming for, rather than letting everyone else make 
assumptions that can lead to missteps. We can also probably do better 
at _asking_ what someone is aiming for before jumping in.

(As I'm sure you realize, sometimes there's a complaint from the 
opposite side, too. When someone is looking high and low for suitable 
linen sewing thread for an especially dyed-in-the-wool historical 
project, for instance, it can be quite frustrating to hear "But why 
don't you just use polyester, it's so much easier?" )

Explaining oneself saves _so_ much trouble....
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: mabse@attbi.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 19:31:37 +0000
Status: RO

I am relatively new, and I have posted several times.  I always feel like a 
complete idiot whenever I do, but oh, well, it is not an unfamiliar sensation.  

My fifteen year old daughter who has been obsessed with ballet to the exclusion 
of most any other activity including eating and sleeping came home yesterday and 
asked me if I could teach her to draft patterns.  Apparently, she had a lecture 
in her french class from someone from the fashion design institute in San 
Francisco on the history of French fashion.  It must have been a great lecture 
because she was telling me what she liked and disliked about each era.  So now 
rather than being an astronomer or volcanologist like she has wanted to be since 
second grade she says she wants to be a fashion designer.  She'll change her 
mind.  Rocket science has been the chosen profession in my family for three 
generations now and I don't see her doing anything else, well, except for 
ballet.

This may seem off topic, but my point, and I do have one, is to let those of you 
 who do this kind of outreach know that it is valued and appreciated.  Someone 
made a difference in her life opening up the world of costume to her, and it 
probably could have been any of you.  So feel good about the work you do 
researching, documenting and diseminating the kind of information that the 
people in this group specialize in.

Maryann, who is now in the middle of Nutcracker hell.
>  --- Justine Magill <philnstine@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > *de-lurking*
> > 
> > Actually, the nasty flaming is exactly why I dont post anymore.  I sometimes
> > do not
> > get my point across clearly, and do not say all I meant to because I am
> > always in
> > somewhat of a hurry due to an insane schedule.  Also, I only get to check
> > mail in
> > the early morning before work, and after work.  
> 
> Oh Jenne, don't go back into lurking, please? I know it isalways us same ones
> who are posting/talking and I know I for one sometimes really do talk too much
> (hey, can I help it that I feel so strongly about many things? *laughs*) but
> that's also because we _are_ always the same ones posting. It would be
> WONDERFUL if more people posted, it really would. 
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
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> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 23:36:50 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Amen to the aforementioned comments. If you think women's clothing is
hard to accurately document back from the 15th Cent., try looking at such
things as men's hose and patterns for cut, wear, etc.. The folks from the
Company of St. George (Gerry and John's group) have done signal service, yet
there are many differences of opinion on such subjects as the type of wool
used and it's effect on the stretch of the cloth (the Merino Controversy), the
proper cut of hose, etc. BTW, what is Scott's last publish date for "Gothic
Europe", and does anyone have a spare copy for sale? I have seen portions, but
I'd like a working copy. I also need a copy of "Visual History" by the same
author. I haven't checked e-bay, I'm just asking around the community first...
Thanks, Mike T.


>
> Well, that's a strong statement :-)

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Subject: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:32:05 -0500
Status: RO

I tried posting this earlier, but I'm not sure it got to the list.  Here
goes...

Well now that I've pretty much solved my wedding dress problem, I'm
wondering about
my guy.  I don't think he's likely to want to wear a houppelande or some
such, and definitely not the silly shoes.  So I'm trying to think of
something different that would still be period (late 14th to early 15th c).
He's got dark skin, so I was thinking maybe a nifty Moorish costume of some
sort.  Does anybody have any information on Moorish (or any
middle-eastern/North African) costume of this era?  I haven't been able to
find much detailed info online...

-- Maral


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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <F12APNXRPmcarcR4ZDg00000a7b@hotmail.com> <05e601c29da9$988a27a0$6401a8c0@VALINOR>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 21:09:23 -0800
Status: RO

Maral

This did make the list before and all I thought was that I fancied poulaines
even more than tippets so I decided to reserve my comment this time.

Lisa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herself-the-Elf" <herself-the-elf@rogers.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 8:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.


> I tried posting this earlier, but I'm not sure it got to the list.  Here
> goes...
>
> Well now that I've pretty much solved my wedding dress problem, I'm
> wondering about
> my guy.  I don't think he's likely to want to wear a houppelande or some
> such, and definitely not the silly shoes.  So I'm trying to think of
> something different that would still be period (late 14th to early 15th
c).
> He's got dark skin, so I was thinking maybe a nifty Moorish costume of
some
> sort.  Does anybody have any information on Moorish (or any
> middle-eastern/North African) costume of this era?  I haven't been able to
> find much detailed info online...
>
> -- Maral
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 21:06:12 -0800
Status: RO

>
>
> However if anyone is concerned about possible criticism for
> "shortcuts", there's a way to avoid most of it. Just mention, "I know
> this isn't absolutely authentic, but it's what I can get (or afford,
> or do, or have time for) right now." Those with _good_ manners, at
> least, will be much more likely to speak kindly and provide help in
> doing what you _can_ do in the best way possible.

If the person does not state what their purpose is, it would  be better
to ask if authenticity is indeed their desire--rather than assuming that
the person is aspiring to it and you just need to know what their limits
are.  Authenticity is simply not relevant for some costuming purposes.
People should not have to start out with an apology to those for whom it
is more relevant.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Fri, 6 Dec 2002, leigh tartaglio wrote:

> BTW, what is Scott's last publish date for "Gothic Europe", and does
> anyone have a spare copy for sale? I have seen portions, but I'd like
> a working copy. I also need a copy of "Visual History" by the same
> author.

You'll have better luck finding the Visual History book, as that series
was longer-lived.

Late Gothic Europe came out in 1980. I have been looking for a copy of
since maybe 1984 and still don't have one. I had ordered it through a
distributor, but it never arrived. I figured I'd see it remaindered
eventually, but I never did, and I was unable to find it in most
libraries. I found out why when I met Margaret Scott in 1989 and asked her
where I might find a copy, as I had had no luck in the London bookstores
either. She described an Unfortunate Series of Events. It seems it got a
bad review in one of the major US library journals (mostly on the basis of
the picture reproductions, which were not particularly good quality), and
as a result very few US libraries bought it -- so now you know why it's
scarce on this side of the water. Then the remaining copies went up in
smoke in a warehouse fire, so there aren't a lot of circulating extras
anywhere.

The book was first in a series of coffee-table costume books called the
"History of Dress" series. The second book was Renaissance Dress in Italy
by Jacqueline Herald (1981). The publisher listed on the Herald book was
Bell & Hyman in England, and Humanities Press of New Jersey on the
American side, though I don't know if any books were actually printed
here. On the Scott book, though, the English publisher is Mills & Boon,
which is better known for publishing romance novels (sort of like
Harlequin). I'm not sure how the ownership of the series worked -- my
vague memory is the Mills & Boon started it, they sold the series to Bell
& Hyman, and the latter axed it after the second volume. But the story may
have been more complicated. In any case, there were never more than two
volumes published.

--Robin





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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 22:04:33 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


http://www.raito.com/royalty/index.html
under "Projects"

Another quick'n'dirty set of directions:
http://luxnova.home.mindspring.com/samuraigame/hakama.html
http://luxnova.home.mindspring.com/samuraigame/yukata.html

Japanese costume museum:
http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/index.htm

Japanese ukiyo-e ningyo (geisha and actor dolls):
http://web.clas.ufl.edu/users/jshoaf/Jdolls/today.htm

Japanese crafts and dolls (and kits):
http://azumijapanesegallery.com/

A japanese shop that has an english version (good for the photos):
http://www.shop-japan.co.jp/english-boku/index.3html.htm

I'd also suggest renting Roshimon (Heian-kyo period), or Yojimbo (Edo period)
for a really _good_ look at the costumes and how they move.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Designers
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 02:45:05 -0500
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Kathleen,

One of my big areas of weakness is in fashion designers.  My 20th costume
history was in 1976.  We followed the popular designers of the day, but not
the past ones.  We studied silhouettes and name of articles of a costume.
Being on two email lists, vintage and sewretro, sparked my interest about
past designers.  They kept talking about this designers and that I had no
idea who they were talking about.  I was thrilled to get the Hudson and
Thames, Dictionary of Fashion Designers and Fashion and could look the
designer up when someone mentioned them.  This book has become my fashion
bible.  It doesn't cover every designer, but does carry the most popular
ones.

I have always been partial to Dior as one of my favorites.  But right now I
am doing some heavy research into the designer from 1920-1925.  I have tons
of illustrations from about 30 Parisian designers during this time.  I am
working on writing bios for them.  I am really having a tough time finding
bio information about some of the designers.  I am compiling all of this
information to make an e-book.  The way I will be presenting each designer
is to have a bio page and then have thumbnails in sequence of time of their
designs from 1920-1923.  So the reader will see how their designs evolved.
It is a small time frame, but a lot happened in the evolution of dress
during these four years.

What I am really fascinated while compiling this information is the later
designers who started out with the 1920s designers.  I am also interested in
how the '20s designers got their start in the fashion business.  Its almost
like making a family tree of designers.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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<DIV>Kathleen,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>One of my big areas of weakness&nbsp;is in fashion designers.&nbsp; =

My&nbsp;20th costume history was in 1976.&nbsp; We followed the popular=20
designers of the day, but not the past ones.&nbsp; We studied =
silhouettes and=20
name of articles of a costume.&nbsp; Being on two email lists, vintage =
and=20
sewretro, sparked&nbsp;my interest about past designers.&nbsp; They kept =
talking=20
about this designers and that I had no idea who they were talking =
about.&nbsp; I=20
was thrilled to get the Hudson and Thames, Dictionary of Fashion =
Designers and=20
Fashion and could look the designer up when someone mentioned =
them.&nbsp; This=20
book has become my fashion bible.&nbsp; It doesn't cover every designer, =
but=20
does carry the most popular ones.&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have always been partial to Dior as one of my favorites.&nbsp; =
But right=20
now I am doing some heavy research into the designer from =
1920-1925.&nbsp; I=20
have tons of&nbsp;illustrations from about 30 Parisian designers during =
this=20
time.&nbsp; I am working on writing&nbsp;bios for them.&nbsp; I am =
really having=20
a tough time finding bio information about some of the designers.&nbsp; =
I am=20
compiling all of this information to make an e-book.&nbsp; The way I =
will be=20
presenting each designer is to have a bio page and then have thumbnails =
in=20
sequence of time of their designs from 1920-1923.&nbsp; So the reader =
will see=20
how their designs evolved.&nbsp; It is a small time frame, but a lot =
happened in=20
the evolution of dress during these four years.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>What I am really fascinated&nbsp;while&nbsp;compiling this =
information is=20
the&nbsp;later designers who started out with the 1920s designers.&nbsp; =
I am=20
also interested in how the '20s designers&nbsp;got their start in the =
fashion=20
business.&nbsp; Its almost like making a family tree of designers.</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.onlinecostumeball.com">http://www.onlinecostumeball.co=
m</A></DIV>
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 08:04:35 -0000
Status: RO

On 6 Dec 2002 at 21:09, Lisa Sinervo wrote:

> > I tried posting this earlier, but I'm not sure it got to the list. 

It made it, and I was assuming one of the Experts 
would have answered it by now. 

> > Here goes...
> > Well now that I've pretty much solved my wedding dress problem, I'm
> > wondering about my guy.  ....
> > He's got dark skin, so I was thinking maybe a nifty Moorish costume
> > of
> some
> > sort.  Does anybody have any information on Moorish (or any
> > middle-eastern/North African) costume of this era?  

Looking through my usual SCA_related sites for 
general info:

The Florilegium 
http://www.florilegium.org/ 
seems to have a Clothes section, and a Moorish 
article within that, which might or might not be of 
use.

Cariodoc's Miscellany 
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/cariadoc/miscellany.ht
ml
also has stuff on this period: I know he does a lot of 
work on the food, so would guess that he'd know 
something about the clothing.

Sorry this is a bit imprecise, but it might be slightly 
better than zero :)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 03:37:48 -0500
Status: RO

I am so thrilled to see so many lurkers coming out!!!!!!  <tacking their
shoes down on my computer so you can't go back into lurk mode>  Welcome to
the newcomers.  Please introduce yourself.

I never realized that there was a hierarchy on the list. So I called my
asst. Susan (a lurker on the list) to explain to me.  I guess I just love to
talk to everyone who loves costume, so I didn't notice.

Truly, I know there are people who have spend their life or a large portion
of it studying costume.  There are very few people that I have met in our
industry that I would call an expert... probably the best experts that I
have met are Valerie Steele and Richard Martin, for their time periods and
areas of study.  I have not come across anyone who is an expert in all time
periods for historic costume.   Some can tell you all the general
silhouettes the time periods, but not all the particulars.

No questions are dumb questions...
I can give a really good example.  I just finished teaching my 1912 film
class for the third time.  I had spent five years studying the costumes from
these films and watched them so many times.  At first, the students hardly
asked questions.  I explained that no questions are dumb questions.  I have
taught every type of student from 1st grade through college.  If you have a
question chances are someone else had that same question.  The students
started asking questions!!!!  Even though I have watched these films so many
times, these students asked about things I had never noticed in the films.
I cherish when someone asks these types of questions, for when I looked up
the information and re-watched that section of the film, I learned something
too.  A lot of students don't realize how much they inspire teachers to
further their research.  Sometimes teachers or researchers see their work
over and over that they miss the little things that can make a big
difference.  It is really wonderful to have someone else's perspective if
you listen with an open mind.  When I was teaching computer in public
school, I would have a know-it-all come into my class.  The student would
say, "I don't really have to pay attention because I already know this."  My
policy is... If you learn one new thing in class, it may be the one thing
you really needed to know.  If you choose to ignore the class, that one
thing could pass you by.

Everyone's input is important.  You might ask that one question that might
shed the light on a long time problem.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The list, flaming...etc...
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 03:50:13 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Linda,

Good to see you again.  Are you using a walking cane, you h-costume old
timer!!!  ROTFLMBO!!!!!  (I just had to get you back for the hyper remark.)

I have never considered myself at an expert at anything but changing diapers
and having sons!  Thank God I retired from changing diapers!

Really I hop, skip, and jump across so many time periods and types of
costume, I am nothing but a lover of fashion and gab.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 09:21:34 -0000
Status: RO

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>Does anybody have any information on Moorish (or any
middle-eastern/North African) costume of this era?  I haven't been able =
to
find much detailed info online...

There is a whole SCA subgroup dedicated to this, but I'm not SCA so I'm =
unsure where...


Here we go try

Middle-Eastern Costuming of 13th Century
by Rozalynd of Thornaby on Tees

http://users.lazerlink.com/~dwarph/v1n1/al-must_v1N1.html#RTFToC11

And a load more links for the Arts & Science pages of the SCA

a.. Costume Guidelines (16th century Turkish)=20
b.. Costumes for Various Styles of Oriental Dance=20
c.. Egyptian horseman's outfit, 6th century=20
d.. Costume for A 15th Century Ghwazee Wedding Dance=20
e.. The Folk Dress/Beledi Dress=20
f.. Harem Pants=20
g.. How to Hijab: Your Guide to the Islamic Dress Code=20
h.. Islamic Clothing, Jewelry, and Make-Up=20
i.. Islamic Clothing - Free Patterns=20
j.. The Islamic Dress Code=20
k.. Maghribi Women's Costume=20
l.. Medieval Middle Eastern Garb: Basic Garments Throughout the East =
with Pictures and Patterns=20
m.. Middle Eastern Costume Links=20
n.. Middle-Eastern Costuming of 13th Century (or here)=20
o.. Muslim Sexual Modesty=20
p.. Near and Middle Eastern Costume Sites Worth Seeing=20
q.. Near and Middle Eastern Costume Bibliography=20
r.. Notes on Clothing from Social Life Under the Abbasids=20
s.. Notes on Islamic Clothing=20
t.. Oriental Costumes: Their Designs and Colors=20
u.. Palace Attire and Garments: The Costumes of the Sultans=20
v.. Persian Clothing, with some references to other Middle Eastern =
styles=20
w.. A Quick Guide to Period Garb for a Turkish Lady=20
x.. Seljuk and Ottoman Periods: Women's Clothing=20
y.. Seljuk Female Costume Patterns and Seljuk Male Costume Patterns=20
z.. 6th and 7th Century Sasanian (Persian) Clothing=20
aa.. 16th Century Persian Women's Clothing=20
ab.. The Tarpus: A Very Brief View of the Turkish Hat with two pictures: =
1 and 2=20
ac.. Turkestani Coat=20
ad.. A Turkish Lady's Ensemble with five images: 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5=20
ae..=20
af.. Mel
ag.. This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have =
received
it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
Company, unless specifically stated.



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------=_NextPart_000_01E0_01C29DD2.09A50D60--


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 04:38:42 2002
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 09:39:50 -0000
Status: RO

I always think everyone starts off with no knowledge about any subject and
therefore it is perfectly acceptable to ask any question. But at the same
time I think that on occasion when answering the same or similar question
again & again, posters might just rush off an answer without being as gentle
as they might, this is probably due to time constraints & that
understandably, their interests lie futher along the learning curve, but the
people who do answer do at least bother to do so, which I think is to be
appriciated.

There is also the problem of style of writing & cultural differences in
exchanges, this has lead me to be accused of being over harsh in the past,
wheras to my mind I am answering as I always have but the reader does not
read what I say as what I meant ! OTOH I have totally misunderstood others
posts, over the years. Hopefully, I've learnt to appriciate these
differances and try to accomodate the differences as much as possible. The
great thing about these lists IS the exchange of ideas and if we were all
too frightened to disagree we would gain far less. Everyone can only truely
interpret a thing from their own experiance, but can learn to see
differences in perspective from others, this is what I love about email
lists !

THis list is pretty good on the whole. I drop in on a UK based re-enactment
board once in a while & I am really ashamed of the way novices are treated
"you f***in idiot" and similar phases being far to common, it is quite
disgusting really and this is often to school kids asking for help !! Ok
later in life "please tell me everything about the middle ages" does seem an
unreasonable question, but it isn't to a child who has no where near grasped
the time scale, even those of us used to all this time hopping don't really
understand everything & definatly about every time ! As you progress you
focus (or focii) get narrower, 1265 England, 1874 England or whatever.
Anyway that isn't what happens here thank goodness.

Anyway I've rambled on, but what I want to say is nobody should be afraid to
ask anything, but at the same time everyone should also understand those
answering are not the angellic host and may from time to time answer less
that perfectly, but in general those that answer are putting in positive
input, not the totally negative I've seen elsewhere.

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 04:39:56 2002
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200212062358.gB6Nw0o3012334@jabberwock.wonderland.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT, but NOT a food question.
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 09:42:03 -0000
Status: RO

I think it helps us to understand the difficulies in talking over a multi
cultural list, if I'm not interested I hit the delete button, whether on OT
subjects or costume subject I have no interest in.

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 05:32:08 2002
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From: "Linda Walton" <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
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References: <20021206184052.42487.qmail@web40909.mail.yahoo.com> <p05100300ba16f57d88a5@[136.152.196.25]> <00dc01c29dcb$ec5af0e0$0400a8c0@centrl01.va.comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Delurking . . . with a Roman Question
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 10:30:30 -0000
Status: RO

Hello Everyone !

Since there seems to be a mood of helpfulness abroad, and not many questions
being asked to use it up, I've nerved myself to ask about the subject that's
been worrying me lately.  I know it's not the sort of historic costume that
this group usually finds itself discussing, but someone may know about it.
Web searches have produced only fairly thin information so far, and the
books I have available are very vague indeed.

Please, how do I dress as a fairly wealthy Roman lady of the time of Cicero
?

It is for a party with my Latin class on 17th December, so I would like it
to be as authentic as I can manage, and - especially - I would like to be
able to answer questions about it.  So where my clothing isn't very
accurate, I would like to be able to explain about it.

Here are some specific areas that I am wondering about:-
1.  What about underwear ?  I want to get the general shape right, and have
heard that Roman ladies wore - among other things - corsets, but don't know
when, or what sort.  (This particularly concerns me because I must wear a
bra, due to mastectomy/prosthesis requirements, and I'm fairly plump, too.)
2.  How should I decorate the fabric ?  I've heard of gold thread in finds:
would that be couched embroidery ?  I've got some good linen waiting to be
used, but could only add simple embroidery in the time available - what
patterns would be appropriate ?  What about coloured wools ?  (If the only
answer is woven gold threads, or complicated sewing, then I'd better go down
the social scale a bit !)
3.  What about hairstyles and jewellery ?  I've got long straight hair, and
couldn't go in for a great bush of little curls:  could I get away with
putting it up in a bun like the Greek ladies.  I know I won't need a veil,
(thank goodness), but should I have some other sort of head-dress ?  Were
necklaces very common ?  I do have some rings, brooches and a bracelet that
are copies of finds, would they be enough ?

Finally, I would like to thank everyone for the immense pleasure I have had
over the years from reading your replies to even the most abstruse of
costuming questions, whether historical research or theatrical
practicalities,

yours sincerely,
Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
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References: <20021206184052.42487.qmail@web40909.mail.yahoo.com> <p05100300ba16f57d88a5@[136.152.196.25]> <00dc01c29dcb$ec5af0e0$0400a8c0@centrl01.va.comcast.net> <00a401c29ddb$ab1e8d20$97725651@bella>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Delurking . . . with a Roman Question
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 10:51:08 -0000
Status: RO

I know very little about Roman clothing I'm afraid, but a friend of mine
wrote a book on it :)  Here we go Roman clothing and fasion A T Croom, it is
a UK publication so you might be able to get in in the library (it is mainly
UK civilian clothing)

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:17:40 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Cabbage Rose <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > 
> I cut fabric with pinkers and sometimes it still frays, particularly over
> time. I use fray check in theater, but obviously that did not exist back
> then.  What kept the pinked edges neat?  Better fabrics? A certain weave?
> Something I'm missing?
> 
> Anyone with any knowledge may certainly pipe up.  It's a marvelous book.
> Thanks to the original poster for mentioning it was available.

Just an observation, since 18th c is not my field as everyone knows by now and
thus I don't do any pinking, but since you asked for comments, do you have the
book Fashion in Detail from the V&A? There are quite a few pinked silks and
they _are_ fraying a bit. I suppose it could be less because of a
closer/tighter taffeta weave? Anyway, I tried Gum Arabic on my silk ribbons for
the 1660s stuff and I am not happy with it, it dries very stiff. Didn't someone
say they used that for 16th c. cuts & slashes? How did they manage to not have
everything get awfully stiff?

Anyway, have you tried pinking on a really good taffeta like the Imperial
Taffeta that Bjarne talked about? I did some snipping on mine, and even after a
year I found that when I re-did the hem that had torn and was snipped and had
been stepped upon, it actually didn't fray very much to my surprise.
Perhaps pinking works a lot like those zig-zag scissors (I don't know the
proper English term for them) where only the 'peaks' fray a bit.

Not a proper answer, but some observations nevertheless.

nicole


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:30:00 GMT
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> --- Cabbage Rose cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote: > 
> > I cut fabric with pinkers and sometimes it still frays, particularly over
> > time. 

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote :

> Perhaps pinking works a lot like those zig-zag scissors (I don't know the
> proper English term for them) where only the 'peaks' fray a bit.

I know them as "pinking shears". Which implys that when you refer to "pinking", you're talking about something other than using these things? 




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Subject: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:45:29 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,
I have some very heavy, very pale grey cotton damask which I would
very much like to lighten up to white. Can anyone suggest ways of
doing so?
best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Regency House Party for Channel 4
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:51:50 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

If you have 3 months to spare next summer then you might care to spend
them in the lap of period luxury...

http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/R/regencyhouse/index2.html


best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:50:01 +0000 (GMT)
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 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote: > Hi all,
> I have some very heavy, very pale grey cotton damask which I would
> very much like to lighten up to white. Can anyone suggest ways of
> doing so?
> best wishes
> Stevie

UK only tip:
Stevie, I tried 'Ecover' for bleaching my 19th c. laces, and boy did that stuff
bleach. You can definitely get it in Sainsbury's and it doesn't have any of the
nasty stuff in it, no chlorine. Don't use a machine, but try to put it into a
BIg pot, keep the heat up nice and as hot as possible (boiling?) and stir in
the bleack. That should do the trick, it certainly didn't kill my laces, they
are nice and white and on my mantua.

Nicole

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:04:38 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote: > 

> > Perhaps pinking works a lot like those zig-zag scissors (I don't know the
> > proper English term for them) where only the 'peaks' fray a bit.
> 
> I know them as "pinking shears". Which implys that when you refer to
> "pinking", you're talking about something other than using these things? 

Yes Jane, I though she meant those scallopy edges, the pretty ones, let me see
if I have a piccie I can upload...

Ha! Silly me, I do have some online on the Rococo bit on the Demon site (hours
later trying to remember the URL...):

http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/female_rococo.html

The 1760s sack dress shows some pinking. Not the big fat lovely scallopy type,
but for the life of me I can't find a pic of that on my comp and don't have
time to scan.

Nicole

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:10:57 -0000
Status: RO

Nicole said:

> UK only tip:
> Stevie, I tried 'Ecover' for bleaching my 19th c. laces, and boy did
that stuff
> bleach. You can definitely get it in Sainsbury's and it doesn't have
any of the
> nasty stuff in it, no chlorine. Don't use a machine, but try to put
it into a
> BIg pot, keep the heat up nice and as hot as possible (boiling?) and
stir in
> the bleack. That should do the trick, it certainly didn't kill my
laces, they
> are nice and white and on my mantua.

Many thanks; I will brave the Islington Sainsbury's and buy some. Do I
mix the bleach and water before bringing it to the boil, and then put
the washed fabric in it?
best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:19:28 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> 
> Many thanks; I will brave the Islington Sainsbury's and buy some. Do I
> mix the bleach and water before bringing it to the boil, and then put
> the washed fabric in it?

Oh gosh, on a Saturday before Christmas *G* Why domn't you order it online?

Anyway, yes, I did stir the bleach (hefty mexture: lots of bleach, I though if
it doesn't kill it, it'll be fine) into the water and heated it up. The bleach
comes in wee little pearls, so you wnat to make sure they are as dissolved as
they can be. As an aside, I forgot to mention that I used an old jam cooking
pot (one of those huge tinny ones) and the bleach ate into the bottom of the
pot! Heating the bleach in that kind of metal seems to eat right through it. I
don't think that would happen with a steel pot though.

Nicole

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:22:36 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Okay, I deleted the original mail as usual after skimming through but suddenly
remembered that there is a lovely site on Arabic costume out there. I love the
site, though I don't know anything about period/plcae nor will ever do anything
with it. Here's a page on 13th c. Andalusian costume for example:

http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/andalus13c.html

This is the index:
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/courtyard.html

I don't know if she has what you are looking for for your other half, but she
might give you further tips anyway.

Nicole - who just has to save pretty much any costume related pic to her
hardddrive. :-)

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail 
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In a message dated 12/6/2002 9:06:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net writes:


> What kept the pinked edges neat?  Better fabrics? A certain weave?
> Something I'm missing?
> 
> 

When you look closely, you can see that fraying has started.  I think it is 
probably the fact that most of these silks were very crisp, perhaps retaining 
quite a bit of the original gum.  Add to that the likelihood that the dresses 
in collections, by the very fact that they have survived, may not have had 
particularly heavy wear.  This is just a guess, but I wonder, too, if using 
the pinking tool, might have caused less stress on the fabric than cutting 
with shears.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/6/2002 9:06:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">What kept the pinked edges neat?&nbsp; Better fabrics? A certain weave?<BR>
Something I'm missing?<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
When you look closely, you can see that fraying has started.&nbsp; I think it is probably the fact that most of these silks were very crisp, perhaps retaining quite a bit of the original gum.&nbsp; Add to that the likelihood that the dresses in collections, by the very fact that they have survived, may not have had particularly heavy wear.&nbsp; This is just a guess, but I wonder, too, if using the pinking tool, might have caused less stress on the fabric than cutting with shears.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:58:19 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Angela.
I will read through my book, danish one, i have about fashion in 18th
century.
It is my thoaght, that they did not do anything to the fabric, only the
pinking tools, cut the fabric on bias most of the time, so that it will not
fray.
When i make a lot of ruched ribbon works on the dress, i zig zag all the
edges very closely and then i turn over the zig zag as a seam and stitch by
hand.
I do the same thing for the sleave ruffles, you cant have a doubble seam on
those, because then they wont fall propperly.
Ill look what she writes about it today and post later.

I have never done any pinking myself, i have made sleave ruffles cut like a
pinking shape, but only cut with a sharp scissor.And then only made a very
narrow seam with the zig zag turned round about 3-4 mm.

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 3:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail


> Bjarne, since you popped up, perhaps you would know the answer to this
> question.  I just got my copy of "Fashion" from KCI and the pictures of
> dresses from your period are STUNNING!  Most of them have what appears to
be
> pinked ruching, or gathered self "ribbons" made of the dress fabric all up
> and down the fronts of the dresses.  The unfinished edges of the fabric
that
> has been pinked or otherwise cut are still nice and clean.  How does that
> work?
>
> I cut fabric with pinkers and sometimes it still frays, particularly over
> time. I use fray check in theater, but obviously that did not exist back
> then.  What kept the pinked edges neat?  Better fabrics? A certain weave?
> Something I'm missing?
>
> Anyone with any knowledge may certainly pipe up.  It's a marvelous book.
> Thanks to the original poster for mentioning it was available.
>
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> Theatrical Costume Design
>
> "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
> be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
> and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
> be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
> W. Shakespeare
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 11:20 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta
>
>
> > Guess what?
> > I got 15 meters of sky blue Silk Taffeta from London today!!!
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 14:06:52 +0100
Status: RO

I got it from James Hare Silks.
Monarch House - Queen Street - Leeds LS1 1LX
Not London, but Leeds.
email: sales@jamesharesilks.co.uk
www.JamesHareSilks.co.uk
It is a fine quality taffeta, and the weave is very even.
They also have a lot of other qualitys.
Their Imperial Taffeta comes in 71 colours, yes you did read right, 71
colours:-)
It was Ian The Staymaker who was so generous to send me his address.
I could find taffeta here in Denmark two, but if it should be this quality,
i am sure i had to pay almost doubble price.

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta


> where did you get your taffeta?  I've been drooling over the sale
> taffetas at Thai Silks -- they are only $11.20 US per yard right now.
>
>
> >
> > Guess what?
> > I got 15 meters of sky blue Silk Taffeta from London today!!!
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:27:19 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

> I got it from James Hare Silks.
> Monarch House - Queen Street - Leeds LS1 1LX
> Not London, but Leeds.
> email: sales@jamesharesilks.co.uk
> www.JamesHareSilks.co.uk
> It is a fine quality taffeta, and the weave is very even.

Can you tell us how much it cost?

best wishes
Stevie
who acquired 15 meters of James Hare's handloomed dupioni in silver
grey at the Liberty sale in the summer...

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Subject: [h-cost] My Costuming
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 08:29:19 -0500
Status: RO

I'm a generalist in terms of fashion history.

I started studying fashion, clothing, and their histories at 13, when I wanted to make my
third doll be a fairy tale princess.


I favor certain periods in my studies based on what's available, what event is coming up next,
and random interest.

I am in the SCA.  I am going to my 15th anniversery event today; I started in the SCA at this
event in 1987.  I should be sewing or at least cutting out rather than writing here.
Primarily, I am a merchant at Pennsic, who makes her own wares, which takes the vast majority
of the rest of the year.
I am switching my wardrobe over to linens and wools mostly in early 14th century cut as I can
afford the materials & time.
I also wish to make a Gothic fitted gown, of the early 15th century.  Got the materials:
linen for lining and wool for the main showing fabric, and even a fitting buddy.


I dance 'vintage dance', so I need (more more) clothing in the 1840-1910's range.

Penny, could you perhaps recommend a source for the Castle's "Whirl of Life"?


My body is perfect for 1830's, with the fashion-figure sloping shoulders, small bosom,
ribcage, and waist, sway back, and swelling hips.
Ok, techincally, the skirts didn't show the size/shape of the hips, but I get an accurate look
with the minimal requirements for petticoats, et al, rather than needing to pad up with period
remedies for no butt.   :-)
Therefore, I should procure some English muslin, and make up something in the way of gigot
sleeves with stacked knife pleats (I've seen three pleats stacked) with the same pleating
style in the skirts and folds laid across the body.
low priority.  I have nowhere to wear such a style.
There is actually a (re)created small town which is specifically examining rural New England
life in the 1830's within an hour's drive.  Old Sturbridge Village
It's a museum of relocated houses, church, mill, tavern.
The setting is rural, conservative, and later in the 1830's than the whole gigot sleeve style
anyway.
The Lowell (Massachusetts) mill girls started in the 1830's, too.
Maybe someday.

I adore the 1930's fashion, but am absolutely the wrong shape to make them for myself.
Good thing I make dolls.
The book on Madeleine Vionnet (My favorite designer), which  book I just ordered from the Met,
should arrive soon, and then I'll be trying out some of  her techinques on a small scale.
I've ordered this book four times from various vendors now, and the first three came back with
an 'oops, we can't find this book.'  While waiting for the ooops message the last time, I held
a copy of the book in my hands, at the Met, at their exhibit:

"Blithe Spirit: The Windsor Set
A remarkable cache of gowns by Vionnet, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Chanel, and
other designers dating primarily from the 1930s.
The Costume Institute, ground floor
November 1, 2002-February 9, 2003
For more information about this event and other events and programs at the
Metropolitan Museum, visit our Web site at
http://www.metmuseum.org/calendar/index.asp?CurrentDate=11/1/2002  "


Still, though, my priority is the dolls.
I'll work on my wish list of clothes for myself, just as soon as I finish this brief list of
planned and wished dolls  (unrolls down & across the floor, and down the stairs & . . . .)


Ann in CT


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Designers
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 08:48:31 -0500
Status: RO

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Penny, Thankyou for the thoughtful comments about fashion designers; you =
experiences seem to flow along with mine. I have been interested in the =
designs of the twenties since I was a child and have followed the =
various revivals with great...and sometimes amused interest. I =
discovered ERTE about 20 years ago and find his flights of fancy to be =
great fun,especially when he interprets other periods of costume history =
for the theatre. But I especially like the Greek and Roman 'quotes' one =
discovers in his sports clothes.                                         =
                               May I ask if there is any particular =
designer or resource you are having trouble with re your 1920-1923 =
project?  I will have time in Jan to go through periodicals and such in =
my library for those years and can pass on relevant material to you.  =
Neat project, I think!    Kathleen                               =20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Penny Ladnier=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 2:45 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Designers


  Kathleen,

  One of my big areas of weakness is in fashion designers.  My 20th =
costume history was in 1976.  We followed the popular designers of the =
day, but not the past ones.  We studied silhouettes and name of articles =
of a costume.  Being on two email lists, vintage and sewretro, sparked =
my interest about past designers.  They kept talking about this =
designers and that I had no idea who they were talking about.  I was =
thrilled to get the Hudson and Thames, Dictionary of Fashion Designers =
and Fashion and could look the designer up when someone mentioned them.  =
This book has become my fashion bible.  It doesn't cover every designer, =
but does carry the most popular ones.=20
     =20
  I have always been partial to Dior as one of my favorites.  But right =
now I am doing some heavy research into the designer from 1920-1925.  I =
have tons of illustrations from about 30 Parisian designers during this =
time.  I am working on writing bios for them.  I am really having a =
tough time finding bio information about some of the designers.  I am =
compiling all of this information to make an e-book.  The way I will be =
presenting each designer is to have a bio page and then have thumbnails =
in sequence of time of their designs from 1920-1923.  So the reader will =
see how their designs evolved.  It is a small time frame, but a lot =
happened in the evolution of dress during these four years.

  What I am really fascinated while compiling this information is the =
later designers who started out with the 1920s designers.  I am also =
interested in how the '20s designers got their start in the fashion =
business.  Its almost like making a family tree of designers.

  Penny Ladnier
  Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
  http://www.costumegallery.com=20
  http://www.costumeclassroom.com
  http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C29DCD.6B246900
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Penny, Thankyou for the thoughtful comments about =
fashion=20
designers; you experiences seem to flow along with mine. I have been =
interested=20
in the designs of the twenties since I was a child and have followed the =
various=20
revivals with great...and sometimes amused interest. I discovered ERTE =
about 20=20
years ago and find his flights of fancy to be great fun,especially when =
he=20
interprets other periods of costume history for the theatre. But I =
especially=20
like the Greek and Roman 'quotes' one discovers in his sports=20
clothes.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May I ask if =
there is=20
any particular designer or resource you are having trouble with re your=20
1920-1923 project?&nbsp; I will have time in Jan to go through =
periodicals and=20
such in my library for those years and can pass on relevant material to=20
you.&nbsp; Neat project, I think!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Kathleen&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dpenny@costumegallery.com =
href=3D"mailto:penny@costumegallery.com">Penny=20
  Ladnier</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, December 07, =
2002 2:45=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Favorite=20
  Designers</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Kathleen,</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>One of my big areas of weakness&nbsp;is in fashion =
designers.&nbsp;=20
  My&nbsp;20th costume history was in 1976.&nbsp; We followed the =
popular=20
  designers of the day, but not the past ones.&nbsp; We studied =
silhouettes and=20
  name of articles of a costume.&nbsp; Being on two email lists, vintage =
and=20
  sewretro, sparked&nbsp;my interest about past designers.&nbsp; They =
kept=20
  talking about this designers and that I had no idea who they were =
talking=20
  about.&nbsp; I was thrilled to get the Hudson and Thames, Dictionary =
of=20
  Fashion Designers and Fashion and could look the designer up when =
someone=20
  mentioned them.&nbsp; This book has become my fashion bible.&nbsp; It =
doesn't=20
  cover every designer, but does carry the most popular =
ones.&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I have always been partial to Dior as one of my favorites.&nbsp; =
But=20
  right now I am doing some heavy research into the designer from=20
  1920-1925.&nbsp; I have tons of&nbsp;illustrations from about 30 =
Parisian=20
  designers during this time.&nbsp; I am working on writing&nbsp;bios =
for=20
  them.&nbsp; I am really having a tough time finding bio information =
about some=20
  of the designers.&nbsp; I am compiling all of this information to make =
an=20
  e-book.&nbsp; The way I will be presenting each designer is to have a =
bio page=20
  and then have thumbnails in sequence of time of their designs from=20
  1920-1923.&nbsp; So the reader will see how their designs =
evolved.&nbsp; It is=20
  a small time frame, but a lot happened in the evolution of dress =
during these=20
  four years.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>What I am really fascinated&nbsp;while&nbsp;compiling this =
information is=20
  the&nbsp;later designers who started out with the 1920s =
designers.&nbsp; I am=20
  also interested in how the '20s designers&nbsp;got their start in the =
fashion=20
  business.&nbsp; Its almost like making a family tree of =
designers.</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.onlinecostumeball.com">http://www.onlinecostumeball.co=
m</A></DIV>
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"Costume Close Up," among other books, mentions the use of pinking tools used 
for 18th century pinking.  These were kind of like chisels with a sharp 
scalloped design at one end, that were struck with a mallet to cut the 
scallop into the fabric.  Aparently the tightness of the weave combined with 
the pressure of striking the cut  prevented it from unravelling too much.  

I must admit that I've tried this using a repro 18th C pinking tool and 
either the tool wasn't well made/sharp enough or by fabric wasnt quite right 
for it but I was not happy with the results.

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
"Costume Close Up," among other books, mentions the use of pinking tools used for 18th century pinking.&nbsp; These were kind of like chisels with a sharp scalloped design at one end, that were struck with a mallet to cut the scallop into the fabric.&nbsp; Aparently the tightness of the weave combined with the pressure of striking the cut&nbsp; prevented it from unravelling too much.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
I must admit that I've tried this using a repro 18th C pinking tool and either the tool wasn't well made/sharp enough or by fabric wasnt quite right for it but I was not happy with the results.<BR>
<BR>
Cheers,<BR>
<BR>
Loren Dearborn<BR>
marionetta@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 08:11:42 -0700
Status: RO

Hi....
I'm pretty much self-taught, which I guess means I get to make LOADS of
weird mistakes.
I learned how to do differently-shaped sleeves (such as the ones you
describe) by playing with scrap fabric and following the diagrams in a
very interesting article in an SCA publication (one of the _Creative
Anachronists_ on costuming had it, as a reprint from an earlier
publication, _Seams Like Old Times_).
The idea is to take your basic sleeve-pattern (drawn on the scrap
fabric--I used old tent canvas left over from my job at the time), and
then you cut into the pattern where you want the shape changed, and
spread it until it forms the desired shape.  Kinda like you're doing the
reverse of putting in darts.
--sue

Dhannti wrote:
> 
> I know I have asked a lot of questions before so add this to my
> curiosity.  Is there a list of recommanded reading for different periods
> of clothing styles and construction?  I presently own a number of books
> but I feel like I am missing something.  In creating a gown from a
> pattern, whether its one of the big three or much to my delight Margo
> Anderson's pattern, I seem to be lacking a common knowledge about the
> construction.  Hard to explain this feeling of failing to achieve a
> certain look due to my skimpy sewing skills. I see wonderful paned
> sleeves on gowns that have a fullness that I can't recreate.  I have
> searched my books and on line but no help.  I would like to have that
> fullness on the upper half of the sleeves while the lower half is
> narrow.  How did they do that?  I guess I am looking for tricks of the
> trade.  If there is a book or some place to find this info could someone
> point me in the right direction?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Diana
> _______________________________________________
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 07:23:13 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


"Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
> Hi all,
> I have some very heavy, very pale grey cotton damask which I would
> very much like to lighten up to white. Can anyone suggest ways of
> doing so?

Dye remover.  Thiourea oxide.  It's less damaging to the fabric than
bleach.  It says not to use it with aluminum pots, but I've done it 
anyway (it was the only pot I had that was large enough for the silk
dress).  Since you're starting with a pale color, you shouldn't have
to worry about dumping the dye bath partway through to keep the dye
from re-depositing.
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1535-AA.shtml

Another very cool technique is discharge paste.  You can paint, stamp
or stencil it on to selectively remove color from a fabric.
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1574-AA.shtml

[not associated with Dharma Trading Co.  I just happen to live in the same
area, so I order from them when I'm in a hurry.]
Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Reproduction pinker photo, was Re: [h-cost] pinking
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:19:57 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Marionetta@aol.com wrote: > 
> "Costume Close Up," among other books, mentions the use of pinking tools used
> 
> for 18th century pinking.  These were kind of like chisels with a sharp 
> scalloped design at one end, that were struck with a mallet to cut the 
> scallop into the fabric.  Aparently the tightness of the weave combined with 
> the pressure of striking the cut  prevented it from unravelling too much.  

I knew I had the photo somewhere on my comp, and while I don't remember where
it came from and can't give credit to who made the tools nor who took the
photo, here's a pic of pinking tools:

http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/Pinker.jpg

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 05:58:23 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Lest anyone think _I_ think the hierarchy is sinister,
I definitely don't! :^) I do think though, Heather,
that you've hit the point for me -- I didn't realize
when I first started posting here that assertions went
hand in hand with documentatary proof. I was used to
SCA-related lists, which often don't hold its members
to such standards, as the organization umbrellas all
levels of costuming/clothesmaking.

There are questions that come up here from time to
time that I'm sure I can add to, but choose not to
because I don't have the time or access to
double-check my sources. I am a grazer of knowledge
most of the time, and have trouble remembering details
of sources off the top of my head if it's a topic I'm
not currently buried in. Unless I'm at home next to my
books with time on my hands, I usually let such
opportunities go, because I know it's a 'put up or
shut up' scenario. 

For the record, though, I can appreciate the rigor of
such an approach, and I'd rather be held to that
standard than the opposite. Though it was jarring at
first (because I didn't expect it), I've since settled
down and accepted it. 

This discussion has been fruitful.

Tasha
_______________________________________________
At 10:40 AM -0800 12/6/02, Tasha McGann wrote:
>In general, though, I don't provide information here
>anymore unless I'm 100% air-tight sure about it,
>because it WILL be challenged. That may be because
>there's an unspoken hierarchy on this list -- some
>folks aren't proven, and thus are challenged. Others
>are known, and are sacrosanct (sometimes). Just a
>thought. (Please don't shoot me.)

I think there's plenty of room for posting things that
one isn't 100% 
air-tight sure about -- I think it's just a matter of
distinguishing 
the different types of information clearly.  People
might get  riled 
up if one posted, "Peasants in Lower Slobovia wore
socks on their 
heads" whereas a posting along the lines of , "I've
seen some 
illustrations of peasants in Lower Slobovia with
something on their 
heads that looks remarkably similar to a sock" might
provoke an 
enthusiastic thread about hat construction and
Slobovian footwear 
styles.

My experience -- on this as well as other lists -- is
that you aren't 
entirely off-base on the "unspoken hierarchy"
observation, but I 
don't see it as a sinister plot. :)  If person X has a
history of 
providing verifiable support and well-reasoned
arguments for their 
statements and conclusions, then they're likely to be
cut more slack 
if they pop off a random comment without supplying the
full support 
and arguments (although a person of this sort is also
generally happy 
to supply them when time allows if asked), and
similarly, person X is 
likely to be given a bit more credence if they come up
with an 
unusual theory or explanation if they have a past
history of 
demonstrating well-constructed and solidly-based
theories.  If said 
person X trades on this tendency too heavily, they're
likely to lose 
that status, so it's a fairly self-regulating system. 
If they stop 
putting out, they stop being cut the slack.  (I tend
to be aware of 
this dynamic because there are a number of subjects,
on various 
lists, where I get cut far more slack than _I_ think I
ought to be, 
and I try to be very careful about _not_ getting lazy
about supplying 
the backup information and reasoning.)


Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 07:51:35 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, Maral.  I remember your question from the first time you posted, but
didn't have anything that could help you, since I'm pretty ignorant of
Moorish cultures.
It occurs to me, though, that I've seen some stuff on Andalusian Spain,
which had a good mix of Christian and Muslim cultural influences.  I
could dig that up, if you like?
--Sue "not a lurker" Clemenger....;-)

Herself-the-Elf wrote:
> 
> I tried posting this earlier, but I'm not sure it got to the list.  Here
> goes...
> 
> Well now that I've pretty much solved my wedding dress problem, I'm
> wondering about
> my guy.  I don't think he's likely to want to wear a houppelande or some
> such, and definitely not the silly shoes.  So I'm trying to think of
> something different that would still be period (late 14th to early 15th c).
> He's got dark skin, so I was thinking maybe a nifty Moorish costume of some
> sort.  Does anybody have any information on Moorish (or any
> middle-eastern/North African) costume of this era?  I haven't been able to
> find much detailed info online...
> 
> -- Maral
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] how many of us are there?
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:00:27 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Janet Davis <castle@erie.net> wrote: > 

> This list, with this many members, generates more mail than any other list I
> am on.  If there were more members, I'd be so busy reading, I'd never get
> anything done.  On the other hand, it would be nice to hear from some other
> voices besides those who post all the time.

I fully agree with the above sentiment, but please don't forget that it is a
two-way-street. It is not the fault of the always-posters that they are the
ones posting all the time. Neither is it that of the no-posters, it just is a
doubled edged sword. It's lovely to hear from others now, it is most enjoyable.

Emotion/sensitivity-alert:

Anyway, there is one thing I have to say because it REALLY upsets me and I
can't stop thinking about it/being upset and I just have to get it off my
chest. While I deleted the mail that said it, as I do with most other than
those I archive and self-forward, I was really very upset by the mail statin g
things about 'someone who shall not be named' and then continuing in the line
of being quite rude/nasty (don't hang, draw and quarter me if I don't find the
right word in English) about not liking one particular person. Please please
please do not do such a thing on a list, it is MOST upsetting to some, at least
to me. I can't stop thinking about that and its principle, because I think it
is so mean of describing someone without saying the name and saying nasty
things about that person. Really, please don't do that. Mail the person and
discuss your problems with that person if the person is so inclined as to
answer, but please don't do what you did, and even if I am the only person
upset by that, I still plead a 'please don't do that'.

Okay, alert over and I shall not mention it ever again.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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>But as long as h-costume is an active list and people _are_ actively
posting messages--does it matter if some people gravitate to other, more
specialized lists?

This list, with this many members, generates more mail than any other list I
am on.  If there were more members, I'd be so busy reading, I'd never get
anything done.  On the other hand, it would be nice to hear from some other
voices besides those who post all the time.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http:/www.medievalbookstore.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:36:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com> wrote: > 

> Dye remover.  Thiourea oxide.  It's less damaging to the fabric than
> bleach.  It says not to use it with aluminum pots, but I've done it 
> anyway (it was the only pot I had that was large enough for the silk
> dress).  Since you're starting with a pale color, you shouldn't have
> to worry about dumping the dye bath partway through to keep the dye
> from re-depositing.
> http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1535-AA.shtml

Oh wow, Lee, that looks JUST like what I would need for a lace of mine, thanks
for sharing this. I just fear that shipping from the US might be a tad
expensive. :-( Still, I think I'll order some in the new year.

What kind of fibres have you bleached/undyed with that stuff apart from silk?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Delurking . . . with a Roman Question
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 08:03:07 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

"Linda Walton" <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
[...] 
> Please, how do I dress as a fairly wealthy Roman lady of the time of Cicero
> ?
> 
> It is for a party with my Latin class on 17th December, so I would like it
> to be as authentic as I can manage, and - especially - I would like to be
> able to answer questions about it.  So where my clothing isn't very
> accurate, I would like to be able to explain about it.

I can't find the set of links I _really_ want, but this might be a
start:
http://www.uky.edu/ArtsSciences/Classics/jlsgloss.html
It's a glossary of roman clothing terms

http://www.realm-of-shade.com/RomanaeAntiquae/adornments.html
What the Roman Lady Wears

http://www.uky.edu/AS/Classics/slides/selectshow.html
Slide show of reproductions

http://www.villaivlilla.com/vestis.htm
examples from art

http://www.unc.edu/courses/rometech/public/content/survival/clothing.html
Ancient Roman Clothing

http://www.geocities.com/sallypointer/makeover/
The Roman Makeover (a very cool page)

Finally found it!  
http://www.dl.ket.org/latin1/things/romanlife/
Has instructions for making stola, dress, tunica, and tunic.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 08:05:46 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

[re: thiourea oxide]
>What kind of fibres have you bleached/undyed with that stuff apart from silk?

Cotton and silks. 
I'm fairly sure that Dylon also markets this type of color remover.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Questions abook studies.
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 08:45:03 -0700
Status: RO

Maybe the rest of us are better at it than I at predicting how a pattern
will look executed in a particular fabric with a particular lining,
interlining etc, but when I want a particular look, or am attempting
something new, I do a mockup in similar materials.   It takes some
fiddling-but that chanllenge is what makes the process fun and
interesting. 

Also when drafting or draping a pattern I sometimes have to do it 4-6
times to get the look I want (for instance the dang goller I am
currently working on.)   Once in a while I get lucky and only have to do
it once or twice.  

Also, in addition to pattern drafting or draping classes, take a
tailoring class.  If you look at extant garments (in pictures, I have
never had the opportunity to handle anything older than the 19th
century) you can see all the fabric manipulation techniques like pad
stitching etc.  These can greatly affect the way the garment lies or
holds it shape.  The Vogue Sewing book has great explanations on these
techniques.  You can find used copies of it all over the place.

Making the garments of the past is different than those of the present,
but many of the techniques are applicable.  Nobody will be able to take
a commercial pattern without fitting and altering and have it look
great. These are all learnable techniques.  

I bet if you look around your area you will find someone who knows more
than you and is willing to share their knowledge.  Someday 'return' that
favor by passing on your knowledge.  

Sg


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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor question
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http://www.saragrace.net/2A_Cost_by_sg.htm
 
It probably isn't really easy to see, but the pleats on this dress are
organ pipe pleats without the taping done on the inside.  Each pleat is
sewn on by hand.  I think Julie Adam's handout is the only one I've seen
on the subject.  Even then, it is very helpful to have someone show you
how to do it.
 
Sg
 
 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Drea Leed
>Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 8:16 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
>
>I'm curious--the pleats in the back of Holbein's lady and the breughel
>painting are obviously very deep and pronounced, but I myself have been
>unable to determine the specific pleating method used.  I've managed to
>create similar wide, very rounded pleats by stuffing and then
>box-pleating.  Though I have had to hand-sew the finished skirt top to
>the finished bodice bottom like one does with cartridge pleats, as the
>stuffed pleats were way too thick to sew through. Are you defining
>cartridge-pleats as pleats that are sewn with multiple threads and then
>gathered up, or as any pleats that aren't "folded under", like knife or
>box pleats?
>
>Looking at Holbein's woman (pic at
>http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/bwlady-big.gif), I would recreate
>that look with a skirt lined with a layer of batting.  Ditto for
breughel
>(one pic at
>http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/images/dance.jpg)
>
>
>Smaller cartridge pleats show up in Italian dresses of the time
(example
>at http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1540_1.shtml).
>
>I'd love to see that english dress.  I think I may have--is she wearing
a
>Queen-mary-type flattened hood, and is the dress a really stylized
>long-fronted red velvet deal? Are the pleats smaller?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Drea
>
> >
>> Cartridge pleats were used, as were knife pleats. They seem to have
>> been used together at times. I don't have a URL but in the Holbein
>> drawing of a lady (where he's done a front *and* a back view),  there
>> are obvious large cartridge pleats in the back. Some of the Breugel
>> paintings also show this. There's another picture of a English court
>> lady in a red dress with navy blue brocade undersleeves which shows
>> the cartridge pleats at the side. However, it appears that she has
>> some flat pleats to transition the front part to the back cartridge
>> pleats (like 2 on each side). Unfortunately, the book which has the
>> best picture of this is hiding/lost right now.
>>
>> Kat Russell
>> <kat@grendal.rain.com>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><a
href=3D"http://www.saragrace.net/2A_Cost_by_sg.htm">http://www.saragrace.=
net/2A_Cost_by_sg.htm</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>It
probably isn&#8217;t really easy to see, but the pleats on this dress =
are organ
pipe pleats without the taping done on the inside.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>Each pleat is sewn on by =
hand.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>I think Julie Adam&#8217;s =
handout is
the only one I&#8217;ve seen on the subject.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>Even then, it is very helpful =
to have
someone show you how to do it.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;
mso-no-proof:yes'>Sg<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;
mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;-----Original
Message-----</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;From:
h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] =
On</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;Behalf
Of Drea Leed</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;Sent:
</span></font><st1:date Month=3D"12" Day=3D"6" Year=3D"2002">Friday, =
December 06,
 2002</st1:date> <st1:time Hour=3D"8" Minute=3D"16">8:16 =
AM</st1:time></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;To:
h-costume@indra.com</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;Subject:
Re: [h-cost] Tudor question</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;I'm
curious--the pleats in the back of Holbein's lady and the =
breughel</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;painting
are obviously very deep and pronounced, but I myself have =
been</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;unable
to determine the specific pleating method used.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>I've managed =
to</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;create
similar wide, very rounded pleats by stuffing and then</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;box-pleating.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>Though I have had to hand-sew =
the
finished skirt top to</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;the
finished bodice bottom like one does with cartridge pleats, as =
the</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;stuffed
pleats were way too thick to sew through. Are you =
defining</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;cartridge-pleats
as pleats that are sewn with multiple threads and then</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;gathered
up, or as any pleats that aren't &quot;folded under&quot;, like knife =
or</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;box
pleats?</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;Looking
at Holbein's woman (pic at</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/bwlad=
y-big.gif),
I would recreate</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;that
look with a skirt lined with a layer of batting.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>Ditto for =
breughel</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;(one
pic at</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/res=
earch/images/dance.jpg)</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;Smaller
cartridge pleats show up in Italian dresses of the time =
(example</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;at
http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1540_1.shtml).</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;I'd
love to see that english dress.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; =
</span>I
think I may have--is she wearing a</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;Queen-mary-type
flattened hood, and is the dress a really stylized</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;long-fronted
red velvet deal? Are the pleats smaller?</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;Thanks,</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;Drea</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;
&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
Cartridge pleats were used, as were knife pleats. They seem to =
have</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
been used together at times. I don't have a URL but in the =
Holbein</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
drawing of a lady (where he's done a front *and* a back view),<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>there</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
are obvious large cartridge pleats in the back. Some of the =
Breugel</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
paintings also show this. There's another picture of a English =
court</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
lady in a red dress with navy blue brocade undersleeves which =
shows</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
the cartridge pleats at the side. However, it appears that she =
has</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
some flat pleats to transition the front part to the back =
cartridge</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
pleats (like 2 on each side). Unfortunately, the book which has =
the</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
best picture of this is hiding/lost right now.</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
Kat Russell</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
&lt;kat@grendal.rain.com&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
_______________________________________________</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
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<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
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<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&gt;__________________________________________=
_____</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D3 face=3DArial><span =
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:06:04 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com> wrote: > [re: thiourea oxide]
> >What kind of fibres have you bleached/undyed with that stuff apart from
> silk?
> 
> Cotton and silks. 
> I'm fairly sure that Dylon also markets this type of color remover.

Nope, I tried it and didn't work. Ecover bleach was actually better than the
Dylon stuff. Perhaps the Dharma trading one would work on the cotton lace that
I have.

Thanks again
Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:19:23 -0000
Status: RO

Lee wrote, in a post I haven't seen yet so I'm piggybacking with
Nicole,

> Dye remover.  Thiourea oxide.  It's less damaging to the fabric than
> bleach.  It says not to use it with aluminum pots, but I've done it
> anyway (it was the only pot I had that was large enough for the silk
> dress).  Since you're starting with a pale color, you shouldn't have
> to worry about dumping the dye bath partway through to keep the dye
> from re-depositing.
> http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1535-AA.shtml

Thanks, but sadly, Dharma doesn't ship to the UK nowadays. There are
all sorts of useful things which they sell which I would love to get
my hands on:-(

I did try a google on the chemical name, with no luck, so I seem to be
stuck with ecover bleach.

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Coifs and me
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:28:33 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I thought I'd combine a couple of recent threads by trying out a coif.
Never again; I nearly had a heart attack when I looked in the mirror,
so Heaven know's what it would do to an innocent bystander.
Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them, or
indeed others?

best wishes
Stevie

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:27:29 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote: > Lee wrote, in a post
I haven't seen yet so I'm piggybacking with
> Nicole,

> Thanks, but sadly, Dharma doesn't ship to the UK nowadays. There are
> all sorts of useful things which they sell which I would love to get
> my hands on:-(

ACK!!!! So much for my idea of ordering something then. How anti-global is
that, not to send anywhere in the world in this day and age of the internet.
*sniff*

I might be able to ask my reenactor/costume friend in the US to send some over.
If I do that, would you like some too, Stevie?

Nicole

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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 07:28:41 +0000
Status: RO

Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or perhaps
another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery hoops
ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another alternative?
Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding hand owing
to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.

Thank you for your help.

Arlys in Oregon


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 11:36:03 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <200212062147.gB6Llfg7010309@jabberwock.wonderland.com> <001a01c29df1$83537880$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711> <007b01c29df4$5e08a0c0$b65722d9@dan>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 17:37:25 +0100
Status: RO

Hello

Imperial Silk Taffeta is 140 cm wide, it comes in 71 colours and costs 28.80
pounds a meter.
If i should buy this quality here in Copenhagen, it would cost me about 400
kr. a meter, so i have saved some money, even it costs to have it sent.



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta


> Bjarne wrote:
>
> > I got it from James Hare Silks.
> > Monarch House - Queen Street - Leeds LS1 1LX
> > Not London, but Leeds.
> > email: sales@jamesharesilks.co.uk
> > www.JamesHareSilks.co.uk
> > It is a fine quality taffeta, and the weave is very even.
>
> Can you tell us how much it cost?
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
> who acquired 15 meters of James Hare's handloomed dupioni in silver
> grey at the Liberty sale in the summer...
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 10:38:30 -0600
Status: RO

Square necklines for me...

T

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 10:29 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Coifs and me


Hi all,

I thought I'd combine a couple of recent threads by trying out a coif.
Never again; I nearly had a heart attack when I looked in the mirror,
so Heaven know's what it would do to an innocent bystander.
Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them, or
indeed others?

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 10:41:35 -0600
Status: RO

hmmmm, wonder if this is wear the swaying "Foxy Lady" came from  :D

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:03:25 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Darn, I deleted the original post. (Been under heavy deadlines, not much
time for responding.) Thanks, Linda, for reminding me that this was
mentioned, as I wanted to follow up.

Working from memory... I've always wondered about this reference. As
posted (and I've seen quoted in various references), the original
statement seems to be referring to a desire to *hide* the shape of the
rear under a tight gown. That makes me wonder if some women wore a single
tail vertically to cover the, um, obvious indentation, or even if this is
just a reference to fur linings.

But a lot of secondary sources seem to point to this quote as evidence of
a desire to *pad* the bottom, which would imply emphasizing its shape as a
"bumroll" or a farthingale would do. I wouldn't associate "hiding" as
being an early attempt to do what a farthingale does. I'm hesitant to draw
a direct connection between what's described in the quote to the padding
of 200 years later, when the desired silhouette is very different.

--Robin


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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:50:57 -0000
Status: RO

Nicole wrote

> > Thanks, but sadly, Dharma doesn't ship to the UK nowadays. There
are
> > all sorts of useful things which they sell which I would love to
get
> > my hands on:-(
>
> ACK!!!! So much for my idea of ordering something then. How
anti-global is
> that, not to send anywhere in the world in this day and age of the
internet.
> *sniff*

I think that they did it for a while but it was so much hassle that
they packed it in.

>
> I might be able to ask my reenactor/costume friend in the US to send
some over.
> If I do that, would you like some too, Stevie?

Yes, very much so.

On general dying matters I have been very happy with stuff I get from

http://www.kemtex.co.uk/

so I could try ringing them on Monday in case they carry it.

Incidently, if anyone wants to dye a lot of fabric in one particular
colour the guy will do a special mix of dyes for you. I wanted an eye
popping red, and got it:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Coifs and me
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:55:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Talia <khanson@kc.rr.com> wrote: > Square necklines for me...
> 
> T

Peplos gowns: 'string' in the waist but excess fabric from top bloused over
that = everything as wide as the widest part, the hips, and 'boat' neckline.
*shudder*

Nicole


=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] stays for a large person
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 18:29:37 +0100
Status: RO

Hello
I have updated my dress diary.
Go to address below, click on robe a la francaise, and scroll down to the
buttom where there is a link: underpinnings.
It is only a mock up of the stays, wich are to be send to Denver on monday.
Now, back to embroidery :-)

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 09:27:31 -0800
Status: RO

Stevie Gamble wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I thought I'd combine a couple of recent threads by trying out a coif.
>Never again; I nearly had a heart attack when I looked in the mirror,
>so Heaven know's what it would do to an innocent bystander.
>Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
>ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them
>
Dresses with pleated skirts and a waistline-at-the-waist. I look like a 
super-sized pincushion! I made most of a 1560 Flemish workingclass 
costume al la Drea Leed. Looked in the mirror and cried! Gave the 
completed parts to a friend. Hope she uses them someday. I didn't learn 
from that mistake and later made a sundress kind of thing w/ pleated 
waist. Ick Ick Ick. Maybe I've learned now. Need to have a dropped 
waist, or a pointed waist or no waist at all.

liz
lizyoung@fenris.net

>  
>

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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 09:34:32 -0800
Status: RO

> While I deleted the mail that said it, as I do with most other than
> those I archive and self-forward, I was really very upset by the mail statin g
> things about 'someone who shall not be named' and then continuing in the line
> of being quite rude/nasty (don't hang, draw and quarter me if I don't find the
> right word in English) about not liking one particular person. Please please
> please do not do such a thing on a list, it is MOST upsetting to some, at least
> to me. I can't stop thinking about that and its principle, because I think it
> is so mean of describing someone without saying the name and saying nasty
> things about that person.

I weed out a lot of email without reading it and must have missed that one.

I suspect the poster wanted the identity of the person to be guessed by the whole
list (maybe it's someone they argue with a lot?) but they didn't quite have the
guts to post the name.  They should not have been using the list to sling insults
either way.  You are quite right to be upset about it.  I would suggest that next
time you see a post like this,  you email the moderator (I think her address is
still eliz@indra.com) and ask her to put a stop to using the list to trade insults.
It would  be better not to do it at all; but if someone insists on doing it they
should do it privately and only involve the person they are annoyed at.

Fran


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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 09:46:52 -0800
Status: RO

>
>
> There are questions that come up here from time to
> time that I'm sure I can add to, but choose not to
> because I don't have the time or access to
> double-check my sources. I am a grazer of knowledge
> most of the time, and have trouble remembering details
> of sources off the top of my head if it's a topic I'm
> not currently buried in. Unless I'm at home next to my
> books with time on my hands, I usually let such
> opportunities go, because I know it's a 'put up or
> shut up' scenario.

I think people should realize there is a difference between an email
list and an academic paper.  I personally will go the full reference
route for materials I write for publication.  But for a mailing
list--generally not.  It is as you say time consuming, and I have
paying work to do.

Fran

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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 10:52:43 -0700
Status: RO

Hello the list, from cold, foggy Montana!
<soapbox on>
I agree...with Fran's comment, and with the person whom she's quoting.
However, I don't think that those who are more into authenticity should
have to apologize, either.  I really get tired of being referred to as a
"cosack" or "nazi" or any other disparaging term that somehow seems
designed to make me feel like I'm some sort of stereotypical
fun-stealer.  I can't speak to the experiences of those folk who are in
groups or RenFaires other than the SCA (my own mileu), so there very
well may be groups with stricter standards.  Or looser.  Of course, I
also think that if you don't like the standards of the group, go form
your own....
But then, that variability of opinion is one of my favorite things about
this particular list--there's such an amazing variety of interests, not
just in the historical sense, but it how we define and use "costume." 
I'm primarily a medieval re-creationist/textile geek, so I really enjoy
hearing from people who are more into RenFaires, or the theatre and
movie folks, or times and cultures that I haven't thought of learning
about....projects and solutions and Amazing Stuff that I never would
have otherwise encountered!
This list, and _all_ of the people on it (both the "noisier" ones like
me, and the quieter "lurkers") have been a sanity-saver for me.  Yeah,
sometimes folks have pretty strong opinions on things, but so what? At
least they feel comfortable enough to express those opinions (whether I
agree with them or not).  And yeah, occasionally, there's a thread I
don't give a d@ng about, but then, that's what my delete key is
for....And if someone gets really out of sorts, then that's what our
List Mama is for...to gently-but-firmly remind us to stay on-topic and
polite.
Some folks have mentioned the sense of a "hierarchy" on this list....I
don't think of it like that, because it implies that there's some sort
of structure imposed on us.  Certainly, there are individuals who've
been able to learn more about their areas of interest than others, or
who have better computer/fabric/research opportunities, but that's just
life.  I don't have the time, or the resources, or the training, to have
my own website right now, but all of the examples of websites and dress
diaries I've found through this list have got me thinking that I
definitely want to do the same!
Lists like this are a great opportunity for isolated folks like me to
"converse" and "hang out" with people of all kinds--where ever they are
on any given learning curve.  Which means, I try not to let myself be
too intimidated by Bjarne, or Drea, or Heather, or Robin, or Margo....or
anyone else I'd occasionally give my eye teeth to be!  If I'm feeling
intimidated, or overwhelmed by what someone knows/can do, it's my
responsibility to deal with that--it's a reaction that _I've_ brought to
the relationship/conversation.
<soapbox off>
Obligatory Costume Content: Today, I'm off to JoAnn's with my discount
coupon, to see if they've got any wool (a girl can always hope, huh?),
and to a local fiber-arts store to buy my tablet-weaving supplies for my
gothic fitted gown (tm).  I'm going to buy some different perle cottons
to learn on, and some lovely 50/2 silk thread for the actual gown. 
Maybe lots and lots of the silk thread--it's undyed/unbleached, and a
perfect weight to use for embroidery.  And I'm learning from friends
about natural dyes....<g>
--Sue

Fran wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > However if anyone is concerned about possible criticism for
> > "shortcuts", there's a way to avoid most of it. Just mention, "I know
> > this isn't absolutely authentic, but it's what I can get (or afford,
> > or do, or have time for) right now." Those with _good_ manners, at
> > least, will be much more likely to speak kindly and provide help in
> > doing what you _can_ do in the best way possible.
> 
> If the person does not state what their purpose is, it would  be better
> to ask if authenticity is indeed their desire--rather than assuming that
> the person is aspiring to it and you just need to know what their limits
> are.  Authenticity is simply not relevant for some costuming purposes.
> People should not have to start out with an apology to those for whom it
> is more relevant.
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 10:54:10 -0700
Status: RO

Nicole, you can probably get one of us here in the US to order it for
you, if there aren't any issues with mailing the chemicals/dyes.
--sue

Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Nicole wrote
> 
> > > Thanks, but sadly, Dharma doesn't ship to the UK nowadays. There
> are
> > > all sorts of useful things which they sell which I would love to
> get
> > > my hands on:-(
> >
> > ACK!!!! So much for my idea of ordering something then. How
> anti-global is
> > that, not to send anywhere in the world in this day and age of the
> internet.
> > *sniff*
> 
> I think that they did it for a while but it was so much hassle that
> they packed it in.
> 
> >
> > I might be able to ask my reenactor/costume friend in the US to send
> some over.
> > If I do that, would you like some too, Stevie?
> 
> Yes, very much so.
> 
> On general dying matters I have been very happy with stuff I get from
> 
> http://www.kemtex.co.uk/
> 
> so I could try ringing them on Monday in case they carry it.
> 
> Incidently, if anyone wants to dye a lot of fabric in one particular
> colour the guy will do a special mix of dyes for you. I wanted an eye
> popping red, and got it:-)
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 11:00:18 -0700
Status: RO

Hey! That might actually fit *me*! <g>
Bjarne, that silk is beeyoootiful! What a lucky lady!
Would silk of that type be appropriate to use for a saque dress? I've
always loved those, and would love to make one, even if I don't have
anywhere to wear it!
--sue, going back to her embroidery too, as soon as she can pry herself
away from the computer!

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hello
> I have updated my dress diary.
> Go to address below, click on robe a la francaise, and scroll down to the
> buttom where there is a link: underpinnings.
> It is only a mock up of the stays, wich are to be send to Denver on monday.
> Now, back to embroidery :-)
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 10:21:36 -0800
Status: RO



Sue Clemenger wrote:

>
> I agree...with Fran's comment, and with the person whom she's quoting.
> However, I don't think that those who are more into authenticity should
> have to apologize, either.  I really get tired of being referred to as a
> "cosack" or "nazi" or any other disparaging term that somehow seems
> designed to make me feel like I'm some sort of stereotypical
> fun-stealer.

H-costume is supposed to be a group that embraces all types of historic
costuming.  What I mean is, that there should be no default assumption that
the person wants to make an authentic costume unless they say explicitly say
otherwise and justify it.  Any more than there should be a default assumption
that the person is making a stage costume or a Halloween costume unless they
say otherwise.  Nor should there be an assumption that "more authentic" is
always "better" and "progressive."  If you're making a stage costume whose
goal is to be seen from the back row and put on and off by the actor in a few
minutes, delicate  visual details and an intricate system of hooks and eyes
are not better.

In other words I think people should recognize that there can be entirely
different and equally valid costuming goals. Not just "levels of
authenticity"  that everyone  "should work up to" as they acquire more
expertise and money for materials.  Also, people should recognize that groups
other than reenactors make  costumes.

I understand why people resent being called costume Nazis. It's an offensive
label.  However, such name calling  is a reaction by those whose goal is not
authenticity to being told explicitly or implicity that they "ought to" pursue
their profession or hobby in a different way.  In the case of h-costume, they
should  not be told "If you don't like authenticity, don't join this group."

Fran


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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 18:52:18 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

> I have updated my dress diary.
> Go to address below, click on robe a la francaise, and scroll down
to the
> buttom where there is a link: underpinnings.
> It is only a mock up of the stays, wich are to be send to Denver on
monday.
> Now, back to embroidery :-)
>

Bjarne, it's going to be wonderful!
My only quibble is your term 'large woman'; I know exactly what you
mean but some people may not. I recommend a term which my mother
recommended to me:
' A Junoesque lady'
Of course, not everybody is familiar with Roman mythology, but
comparing someone to a goddess is usually pretty safe.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 19:38:24 -0000
Status: RO

>Nope, I tried it and didn't work. Ecover bleach was actually better than
the
Dylon stuff. Perhaps the Dharma trading one would work on the cotton lace
that
I have.


I believe Dylon takes dye away rather than bleaches, if the cotton is ecru
(I missed the rest of the thread ) you will need a bleach, Hydrogen peroxide
is better than UK floor bleach

Mel
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 14:35:54 2002
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 19:39:47 -0000
Status: RO

I expect they don't ship because of the laws etc on importing chemicals
between countries

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 14:36:01 2002
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 19:39:01 -0000
Status: RO

>on the chemical name, 

What was the chemical name ?

Mel
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 14:40:04 2002
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 19:43:18 -0000
Status: RO

>Peplos gowns: 'string' in the waist but excess fabric from top bloused over
that = everything as wide as the widest part, the hips, and 'boat' neckline.
*shudder*

Gareth's been an Anglo Saxon so long he actually finds these sexy !!!

I hate Napoleonic empire line stuff, my boobs are way to big !

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 14:42:58 2002
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 19:46:26 -0000
Status: RO

Hey I knew Peter years ago !!  I bet they can find you something

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 14:49:33 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stays for a large person
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 20:51:01 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Sue
The Dress i am going to make of it, is actually a saque dress. So sure you
can!



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stays for a large person


> Hey! That might actually fit *me*! <g>
> Bjarne, that silk is beeyoootiful! What a lucky lady!
> Would silk of that type be appropriate to use for a saque dress? I've
> always loved those, and would love to make one, even if I don't have
> anywhere to wear it!
> --sue, going back to her embroidery too, as soon as she can pry herself
> away from the computer!
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > Hello
> > I have updated my dress diary.
> > Go to address below, click on robe a la francaise, and scroll down to
the
> > buttom where there is a link: underpinnings.
> > It is only a mock up of the stays, wich are to be send to Denver on
monday.
> > Now, back to embroidery :-)
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 20:54:14 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Stevie.

Good heavens! i didnt think of it this way. Is it really bad to say a large
person?
Would it be better to say large sized?
Perhaps i should use your mothers word then.
Thanks for the tip!
Did you get the cd?
I sended it for you tuesday.
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stays for a large person


> Bjarne wrote:
>
> > I have updated my dress diary.
> > Go to address below, click on robe a la francaise, and scroll down
> to the
> > buttom where there is a link: underpinnings.
> > It is only a mock up of the stays, wich are to be send to Denver on
> monday.
> > Now, back to embroidery :-)
> >
>
> Bjarne, it's going to be wonderful!
> My only quibble is your term 'large woman'; I know exactly what you
> mean but some people may not. I recommend a term which my mother
> recommended to me:
> ' A Junoesque lady'
> Of course, not everybody is familiar with Roman mythology, but
> comparing someone to a goddess is usually pretty safe.
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 15:08:02 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] next years projekts.
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 21:09:28 +0100
Status: RO

Hello the list!
New year is not far away. What will be your next years projekts?
I have some shoes to embroider, and maybe a stomacher.
The shoes is going to be raised metal embroidery, and the stomacher will be
mixed silks and metal thread.
Then i am to make a polonaise dress.
This is the things i have in my callendar.
Then i think i want to make a late elizabethan dress.
It is on time, that i have this period on my homepage.
I never gets any renaissance orders, maybe because i dont have that period
on the web.
Perhaps i could sell it on ebay when i have made it.
What about all you lurkers out there, let us hear what you wants to make!!!



 Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 15:20:58 2002
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coifs and me
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:42:12 -0500
Status: RO

On Saturday 07 December 2002 12:27 pm, Elizabeth Young wrote:
> Stevie Gamble wrote:
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I thought I'd combine a couple of recent threads by trying out a coif.
> >Never again; I nearly had a heart attack when I looked in the mirror,
> >so Heaven know's what it would do to an innocent bystander.
> >Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
> >ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them

I look pretty dreadful in coifs myself.  Especially the simple Viking kind 
(which surprised me; I usually look good in headwear of all kinds, no matter 
how strange).

I look fine in a peplos type dress, provided the fabric is supple enough 
and/or thin enough to drape well; otherwise I tend to look dumpy.  

Other items of historic costume I can stand not to wear:

Broad-shouldered 1890's style "waists" (tends to emphasize my shortness and 
de-emphasize the better aspects of my torso).

That's about it, really.  Guess I'm lucky....


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] stays
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 21:31:30 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Stevie.
I am very glad that you warned me about that word.
Silly me, i surely didnt want to be rude, and it was very careless of me.
Now i used your word Junoeque in stead. Thanks for this Stevie, i am glad
you told me.


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 15:41:10 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stays for a large person
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 20:43:20 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

> Dear Stevie.
>
> Good heavens! i didnt think of it this way. Is it really bad to say
a large
> person?
> Would it be better to say large sized?

I think you have to remember that as costumers we use words like
large, medium, small etc as factual descriptions. Unfortunately in the
outside world those terms may have undesirable connotations, and a
dress diary on the Internet is *in* the outside world. Which means
that it's perhaps preferable to use other terms...

> Perhaps i should use your mothers word then.

It's a good word; I commend to you also 'statuesque' and, in the case
of a short large lady, 'pocket Venus'.

> Thanks for the tip!

You are most welcome;

> Did you get the cd?

I did indeed, and have been sitting at my pc almost non-stop since
then. I am particularly taken with the dress at 21.jpg; there's a
detailed picture at 19.jpg  There are seashells in silver on the gown
and the matching stole. It is very lovely, but I  don't know what date
it is, though.

Many thanks for taking all that trouble

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 15:42:08 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stays
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Bjarne og Leif Drews" at Dec 07, 2002 09:31:30 PM
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:39:47 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

the other polite options for American English are "full figured" and
"Plus sized".  "Large" is just really not very specific, either -- a "large"
person could be very tall, or very fat, or full figured.  

.heather.


> 
> Dear Stevie.
> I am very glad that you warned me about that word.
> Silly me, i surely didnt want to be rude, and it was very careless of me.
> Now i used your word Junoeque in stead. Thanks for this Stevie, i am glad
> you told me.
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 15:44:27 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Linda's question: Roman lady's dress
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 20:42:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

While I know next to nuffin about the Romans (*Monty Pythonesque voice* 'what
have the Romans ever done for us...' hehehe) I just this book lying at my
trusty Ben's (other half) and he said it was a good one:

Costume of Ancient Rome by David J Symons, drawings by Jack Cassin-Scott.
London, BT Batsford Ltd., 1987.

Aldo, I found a photo amongst my looooooads of costume piccies (compulsive
pic-saver ;-) which shows the dressing of a Roman lady:

http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/dressing.jpg

Perhaps that helps a little.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail 
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:20:23 -0800
Status: RO

Thanks Bjarne and all!  It's fascinating to think that pinking tools was all
that was used, but does seem the most likely explanation.  I do see in my
"Fashion in Detail" that the edges are the tinest bit frayed, but given the
age of the garments, it seems amazing to me that they aren't more shredded.

It must be the weave of the fabrics, and the methods of cutting that
preserves the edges.

Bjarne, do you have closeup pics of your technique for edging the self
ruching details? I would probably do something similar for theater, because
durability is the second biggest concern to look as actors are terribly hard
on their garments.  The closer I can get to the right look the better. It's
a fabulous and fairly inexpensive way to decorate garments rather
elaborately so it's something I'd like to know a bit more about.

You people are so generous with your knowledge.  Thank you thank you.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare



----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 4:58 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail


> Dear Angela.
> I will read through my book, danish one, i have about fashion in 18th
> century.
> It is my thoaght, that they did not do anything to the fabric, only the
> pinking tools, cut the fabric on bias most of the time, so that it will
not
> fray.
> When i make a lot of ruched ribbon works on the dress, i zig zag all the
> edges very closely and then i turn over the zig zag as a seam and stitch
by
> hand.
> I do the same thing for the sleave ruffles, you cant have a doubble seam
on
> those, because then they wont fall propperly.
> Ill look what she writes about it today and post later.
>
> I have never done any pinking myself, i have made sleave ruffles cut like
a
> pinking shape, but only cut with a sharp scissor.And then only made a very
> narrow seam with the zig zag turned round about 3-4 mm.
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 3:10 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail
>
>
> > Bjarne, since you popped up, perhaps you would know the answer to this
> > question.  I just got my copy of "Fashion" from KCI and the pictures of
> > dresses from your period are STUNNING!  Most of them have what appears
to
> be
> > pinked ruching, or gathered self "ribbons" made of the dress fabric all
up
> > and down the fronts of the dresses.  The unfinished edges of the fabric
> that
> > has been pinked or otherwise cut are still nice and clean.  How does
that
> > work?
> >
> > I cut fabric with pinkers and sometimes it still frays, particularly
over
> > time. I use fray check in theater, but obviously that did not exist back
> > then.  What kept the pinked edges neat?  Better fabrics? A certain
weave?
> > Something I'm missing?
> >
> > Anyone with any knowledge may certainly pipe up.  It's a marvelous book.
> > Thanks to the original poster for mentioning it was available.
> >
> > angela
> > +++++
> > Angela F. Lazear
> > Cabbage Rose Costumes
> > http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> > Theatrical Costume Design
> >
> > "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
> > be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
> > and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
> > be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
> > W. Shakespeare
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 11:20 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Imperial Taffeta
> >
> >
> > > Guess what?
> > > I got 15 meters of sky blue Silk Taffeta from London today!!!
> > >
> > > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> > >
> > > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Delurking . . . with a Roman Question
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:28:01 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:30 AM +0000 12/7/02, Linda Walton wrote:
>Hello Everyone !
>
>Since there seems to be a mood of helpfulness abroad, and not many questions
>being asked to use it up, I've nerved myself to ask about the subject that's
>been worrying me lately.  I know it's not the sort of historic costume that
>this group usually finds itself discussing, but someone may know about it.
>Web searches have produced only fairly thin information so far, and the
>books I have available are very vague indeed.
>
>Please, how do I dress as a fairly wealthy Roman lady of the time of Cicero
>?
>
>It is for a party with my Latin class on 17th December, so I would like it
>to be as authentic as I can manage, and - especially - I would like to be
>able to answer questions about it.  So where my clothing isn't very
>accurate, I would like to be able to explain about it.


Although a brain-dump of references may not be very useful for the 
current deadline, at least you may find the following of use in the 
future. (This is simply a personal list of resources I've used -- not 
necessarily complete or definitive.)

Stauffer, Annemarie.  1995.  Textiles of Late Antiquity. 
Metropolitan Museum, New York.  ISBN  0-89099-768-8

Houston, Mary G..  1959.  Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume 
& Decor.  Adam & Charles Black, London.

Croom, A.T.  2000.  Roman Clothing and Fashion.  Tempus Publishing, 
Inc., Charleston.  ISBN 0-7524-1469-0

Sebesta, Judith Lynn & Larissa Bonfante eds..  2001.  World of Roman 
Costume.  University of Wisconsin Press, Madicon.  ISBN  0-299-13854-2

Johns, Catherine.  1996.  Jewellery of Roman Britain.  Univ of 
Michigan Press, Ann Arbor.  ISBN  0-472-10766-6

Wild, J.P.  1970.  Textile Manufacture in the Northern Roman 
Provinces.  Cambridge University Press.  SBN 521-07491-6

Rogers, Penelope Walton, Lise Bender Jørgensen & Antoinette 
Rast-Eicher.  2001.  Roman Textile Industry and its Influence.  Oxbow 
Books, Oxford.  ISBN  1-84217-046-5

Wilson, Lillian M..  1938.  Clothing of the Ancient Romans. (?publisher?)

King, Donald.  1996.  "Roman and Byzantine Dress in Egypt" in 
Costume:  30:1-15.

I also tend to find a lot of the early Coptic material from Egypt to 
be helpful for construction and ornamentation ideas.


>Here are some specific areas that I am wondering about:-
>1.  What about underwear ?  I want to get the general shape right, and have
>heard that Roman ladies wore - among other things - corsets, but don't know
>when, or what sort.  (This particularly concerns me because I must wear a
>bra, due to mastectomy/prosthesis requirements, and I'm fairly plump, too.)


I don't recall running across anything I'd describe as a "corset" 
(well, except for the "highly imaginative" costuming in the movie 
"Gladiator"!), but you get regular references to a breast-band called 
a "strophium" that -- if it is related to the garments seen on the 
"exercise girls" mosaic and various wall-paintings of sexual 
activity, appears to be basically a band wrapped around the breasts. 
So something for breast-support does seem to have been used, and for 
your particular requirements (and the context of the event), I'd just 
go with your regular bra and design the shoulder fastenings of the 
garments to cover the bra straps.


>2.  How should I decorate the fabric ?  I've heard of gold thread in finds:
>would that be couched embroidery ?  I've got some good linen waiting to be
>used, but could only add simple embroidery in the time available - what
>patterns would be appropriate ?  What about coloured wools ?  (If the only
>answer is woven gold threads, or complicated sewing, then I'd better go down
>the social scale a bit !)


If the late-Roman finds from Egypt are typical of Roman styles (which 
is not a certainty, but a good place to start), then decoration seems 
to have been primarily woven-in (tapestry weaving) with embroidery a 
far second in popularity.  Gold thread could easily have been 
incorporated in tapestry-woven decorations.  But there are at least 
_some_ parallel designs in embroidery (primarily chain or stem stitch 
in either wool or silk), and I could see it being plausible for 
couched gold thread to be incorporated in that sort of work. 
(Sometimes the kink-patterns in the metallic thread will give a clue 
to what kind of work was done with it, but sometimes it isn't in good 
enough shape for that kind of information.)

If you want to do something relatively simple in a short time, I'd go 
with woolen embroidery in stem or chain stitch on linen, which is 
what you find in the early Coptic material.  The motifs involved are 
exactly the same sorts that you find in tapestry work -- some sort of 
simple acanthus or key-pattern bands would probably be reasonable.


>3.  What about hairstyles and jewellery ?  I've got long straight hair, and
>couldn't go in for a great bush of little curls:  could I get away with
>putting it up in a bun like the Greek ladies.  I know I won't need a veil,
>(thank goodness), but should I have some other sort of head-dress ?  Were
>necklaces very common ?  I do have some rings, brooches and a bracelet that
>are copies of finds, would they be enough ?

I'm not sure I can do justice to describing embroidery styles -- 
you'd be better off looking at portraits and archaeological finds 
from the period and getting your own sense of what would work.  Ditto 
hairstyles.  Some sort of bun-like style might work, but look at 
pictures any make your own interpretations.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:37:02 -0800
Status: RO

I believe I joined the list in approximately 1995 or a bit later.  For those
of you unfamiliar with me, I am a theatrical costumer in the SF Bay Area,
US.  I think for the most part it is a delightful place to chat and enquire
about different questions that come up in theatrical costuming, and although
visual historic accuracy is often my objective, technical historical
accuracy is probably never going to be, unless whopper poppers were actually
the closure method of choice at the turn of the century.   Never stops me
from following a thread of interest, nor from reeling with admiration for
the collective wisdom embodied in the members here.

As others have pointed out, we could be kinder to one another from time to
time, but that is certainly always going to be true and is a part of the
human condition.  I know I have occasionally slipped up and to anyone I have
offended over the years, a sincere, heartfelt apology.

Just gotta love anyone who spends this much time thinking and "talking"
about clothes, their beauty, their history and construction. The only
difference between this list and heaven, is that in heaven, the dye lots
will always be perfect, the fabric stash will never get bugs, and the
costumes can be imagined into existence, without the backbreaking long
nights of labor... wait I actually LIKE that part!

Cheers

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Nay then, let the devil wear black,
for I'll have a suit of sables..."
W. Shakespeare


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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:40:01 -0500
Status: RO

        A new question just popped into my little pea brain.  When did
snaps first come out.  Can't imagine that they are very old, but they are
so convenient.  Just curious.  Thanks

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projekts.
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:47:53 -0800
Status: RO

Ohhh, how delightful a subject is this?

I must finish a repro 20s performance Kimono, with black sheer organza trim
beaded with garnet 3-cut transparent beads and these lovely blood red
triangle beads I found coated in what is probably a gold wash.  Sparkly!

Then I will begin studying the teens (1912) in preparation for "The Music
Man" , which will audition in May. I will also be Assistant Directing my
first show.

While I'm working on that, I will be helping my daughter execute her 1940's
inspired prom dress. We will be making a chiffon skirt at the bottom in a
solid color (unless anyone can tell me a fool proof method of gradient
dying) and the top will be nude and beaded.

A wedding dress for a friend's daughter in June... then "Sweeney Todd" in
September.  Set in 1865, (I believe, I will have to double check that), it
is a period/fantasy/black comedy, for those of you who may be unfamiliar
with it.  Sondheim. Costumes are very spooky surreal.

I'll probably also find time to make myself some more bias cut day dresses,
my new favorite garb.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design
"So far as my coin would stretch; and where it would not
I have used my credit."
King Henry the Fourth; I, ii - W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 12:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] next years projekts.


> Hello the list!
> New year is not far away. What will be your next years projekts?
> I have some shoes to embroider, and maybe a stomacher.
> The shoes is going to be raised metal embroidery, and the stomacher will
be
> mixed silks and metal thread.
> Then i am to make a polonaise dress.
> This is the things i have in my callendar.
> Then i think i want to make a late elizabethan dress.
> It is on time, that i have this period on my homepage.
> I never gets any renaissance orders, maybe because i dont have that period
> on the web.
> Perhaps i could sell it on ebay when i have made it.
> What about all you lurkers out there, let us hear what you wants to
make!!!
>
>
>
>  Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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References: <004c01c29d99$86cf87e0$665183d1@rmitchellras>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Designers
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:53:45 -0800
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Vionnet for inventing the bias.  Chanel in the 20s.  Worth, Balmain.
These days John Galliano for being the showiest and the most =
consistently to my own personal way over the top tastes.  He did a =
beaded / silk ribbon / 20s repro hankerchief hem line a few years backed =
that simply rocked.  Badgely Mishka for the prettiest evening wear. =20

hmm.... I'm sure I'm forgetting many.  Dior, can't forget Dior.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes=20
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Nay then, let the devil wear black,=20
for I'll have a suit of sables..."
W. Shakespeare



  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Lloyd Mitchell=20
  To: H-Costume=20
  Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 6:35 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Favorite Designers


  Here is a new topic for consideration: With the Twentieth Century =
getting further behind us, and it was a century when fashion designers =
became Known in their own right, who impresses you or has influenced =
your own design interpretations and what influence will they make in the =
ever evolving world of Historical Costuming. Anne Hollander in "Seeing =
Through Clothes" makes the case for fashion of any age being re =
interpreted subsequently in terms of the current mode of aesthetics; ( =
and this can certainly be observed in the 20th C ideas pursued by the =
movie mogul designers, as well as any time the Fashion runways quote the =
fads and fancies of the past.)   {Another semi-lurker, Kathleen M...A =
list observer since the early 90's.] 
------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C29DF8.0F49F2F0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1126" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>Vionnet for inventing the =
bias.&nbsp; Chanel=20
in the 20s.&nbsp; Worth, Balmain.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>These days John Galliano for being =
the=20
showiest and the most consistently to my own personal way over the top=20
tastes.&nbsp; He did a beaded / silk ribbon / 20s repro hankerchief hem =
line a=20
few years backed that simply rocked.&nbsp; B</FONT><FONT =
face=3DAvantGarde=20
size=3D2>adgely Mishka for the prettiest evening wear.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>hmm.... I'm sure I'm forgetting =
many.&nbsp;=20
Dior, can't forget Dior.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>angela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. =
Lazear<BR>Cabbage Rose=20
Costumes <BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A><BR>Theatrical=20
Costume Design</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>"Nay then, let the devil wear =
black, <BR>for=20
I'll have a suit of sables..."<BR>W. Shakespeare</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Drmitchell@washjeff.edu =
href=3D"mailto:rmitchell@washjeff.edu">Lloyd=20
  Mitchell</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">H-Costume</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, December 06, 2002 =
6:35=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] Favorite=20
Designers</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Here is a new topic for consideration: With the =
Twentieth=20
  Century getting further behind us, and it was a century when fashion =
designers=20
  became Known in their own right, who impresses you or has influenced =
your own=20
  design interpretations and what influence will they make in the ever =
evolving=20
  world of Historical Costuming. Anne Hollander in "Seeing Through =
Clothes"=20
  makes the case for fashion of any age being re interpreted =
subsequently in=20
  terms of the current mode of aesthetics; ( and this can certainly be =
observed=20
  in the 20th C ideas pursued by the movie mogul designers, as well as =
any time=20
  the Fashion runways quote the fads and fancies of the =
past.)&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  {Another semi-lurker, Kathleen M...A list observer since the early=20
  90's.]&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail /correction
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:57:29 -0800
Status: RO

This will drive me insane, sorry, but it's bad grammar, and it was mine.

> Thanks Bjarne and all!  It's fascinating to think that pinking tools
[WERE] all
> that was used, but ... (snip)

> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> Theatrical Costume Design
> "If we shadows have offended, think but this,
>  and all is mended,
> That you have but slumbered here,
>  while these visions did appear."
> A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 22:23:50 -0000
Status: RO

Sue wrote, from cold, foggy Montana,

a typically thoughtful post about what the list can and cannot do;

> However, I don't think that those who are more into authenticity
should
> have to apologize, either.  I really get tired of being referred to
as a
> "cosack" or "nazi" or any other disparaging term that somehow seems
> designed to make me feel like I'm some sort of stereotypical
> fun-stealer.

I don't think you have to apologise either. People lurking on this
list don't want to be told that a nice little polycotton mix will
perfectly reproduce the handkerchief linen chemise they would like to
have; they know perfectly well that it won't. Or at least they will
know within 30 seconds of putting it on; there's a very large
distinction between 'lurking' and 'stupid'. They want to learn. You
can only learn by working at it, and sometimes that's hard. But
putting vast amounts of time, energy and money into an ensemble which
looks dreadful is a lot harder.

best wishes
Stevie

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 23:50:40 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
I have just ben surfing a little on the internet and found some amzing dolls
made of paper clay.
Are there anyone here, who knows this?
Is it good to work with?

Bjarne who is a little scared, i might find yeat another thing to
do..............
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: [h-cost] Trim on Arwen's dress
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:59:28 -0600
Status: RO

Hello,

I am curious about the trim on Arwen's dress (neckline and upper sleeves) in
the picture that was posted recently.

http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/image14.
shtml

I have seen trim like this on other dresses in movies but haven't the
slightest clue how they make the trim.  I am interested in making some trim
like this but I can't even begin to guess what was used or how it was done.
Any suggestions?

Also was trim like this ever used in historical garments?  I like fantasy
clothing almost as much as historical so it will be all right with me if it
isn't period, any period.  But I am curious.

Thanks so much!
Avien

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From: kate <macailith@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stays for a large person
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:03:33 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hey Bjarne

If you go to 
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/elenora.jpg

you will find a better copy of the portrait of
Eleanora. Just right click on it and copy her for your
website.

Love the gown!!! Your work is absolutely stunning.

kate

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:06:08 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

that was meant to go to Bjarne privately. Sorry about
that...

kate


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim on Arwen's dress
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 23:10:39 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Avien <aviendiora@mcleodusa.net> wrote: > Hello,

What a coincidence, I was thinking about the same trim recently! (coz I love
it)

> I am curious about the trim on Arwen's dress (neckline and upper sleeves) in
> the picture that was posted recently.
> 
> http://www.warofthering.net/movies/photos/empiretttlarge/imagepages/image14.
> shtml
> 
> I have seen trim like this on other dresses in movies but haven't the
> slightest clue how they make the trim.  I am interested in making some trim
> like this but I can't even begin to guess what was used or how it was done.
> Any suggestions?

Well, actually, while I was skimming through the old brain and trying to
remember/fisgure iut where I had seen something like that it suddenly came to
me: Indian shops. There are lots of those here in England. I know that I have
seen lovely broad trims/sari edgings that were metallic embroideries and looked
very much like the ones on her dress. Also, would could well be is that a
vintage trim was used, particularly some vintage trim from India, I have some
Victorian Indian bits that are stunning and similar in workmanship. All in all
I'd say it could be reproduced using a metallic Indian sari trim. Have a look
at Ebay, I am sure I have seen some on there.

Sadly I wouldn't know how to make any like this - and to be honest, looking at
the cost of such lovely Indian trims, even those in the shops, it isn't worth
making. I suppose one could make them though using metallic threads on bullion
trim and using padded metalwork embroidery.

> Also was trim like this ever used in historical garments?  

I honestly don't think so other than in Victorian fancies, but I'm not that
knowledgable on that.

I like fantasy
> clothing almost as much as historical so it will be all right with me if it
> isn't period, any period.  But I am curious.

I'm with you on that *G* I LURVE fantasy.

Nicole (and Baroque of course, but everyone knows that, hehe)

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 15:22:26 -0800
Status: RO

> I don't think you have to apologise either. People lurking on this
> list don't want to be told that a nice little polycotton mix will
> perfectly reproduce the handkerchief linen chemise they would like to
> have; they know perfectly well that it won't. Or at least they will
> know within 30 seconds of putting it on; there's a very large
> distinction between 'lurking' and 'stupid'. They want to learn. You
> can only learn by working at it, and sometimes that's hard. But
> putting vast amounts of time, energy and money into an ensemble which
> looks dreadful is a lot harder.
>
>

But not everyone considers a poly-cotton chemise to be a waste of time
and money.  It suits some people perfectly well--not because they're
ignorant, but because it fulfills their goals.  Whether it fulfills the
goals of some other person who is not wearing it and does not officially
set goals for some organization they both belong to, is entirely beside
the point.

Others would like to have the 100% linen but can't afford it. They don't
want to be told they are ignorant, that they "ought to" afford linen,
etc.

If someone's outfit fulfills the goals _officially_ set by their
organization or employer, and it fulfills their own goals in terms of
what they want to wear, what they can afford, what they are able to make,
etc.--it is never a waste of time and money.  There is no reason to throw
something out just because of freelance criticism, on the net or
elsewhere.

My point is that everyone, when posting, should consider that h-costume
has members with many different costuming goals.  Others may not have the
same goals  you do, but their goals are still valid for them.

Fran

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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 01:27:58 -0000
Status: RO

On 7 Dec 2002 at 15:22, Lavolta Press wrote:

> >  People lurking on this
> > list don't want to be told that a nice little polycotton mix will
> > perfectly reproduce the handkerchief linen chemise they would like
> > to have; they know perfectly well that it won't. Or at least they
> > will know within 30 seconds of putting it on; there's a very large
> > distinction between 'lurking' and 'stupid'. They want to learn. You
> > can only learn by working at it, and sometimes that's hard. But
> > putting vast amounts of time, energy and money into an ensemble
> > which looks dreadful is a lot harder.

I suspect that you underestimate the ignorance of 
some of us. I don't think I'm stupid as such, but as 
yet (well, until a few minutes ago!) I had no idea to 
what extent poly-cotton could or could not reproduce 
linen. Myy guess would err towards "not", but I've 
never had the experience to judge. I'd rather not 
waste large quantities of my time finding out the 
hard way: so when I need to know this sort of thing, 
I'll be asking amazingly ignorant questions. And, 
going by past experience, getting helpful and 
informative answers. 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stays
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:44:17 +0000
Status: RO

Of course you need to remember that in America anything over a size 2 is
a plus size. :/

Arlys, who is medium tall, but not large, and *still* needs to buy the
bloody plus sizes!

On Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:39:47 -0800 (PST) Heather Meadows
<alice@wonderland.com> writes:
> the other polite options for American English are "full figured" and
> "Plus sized".  "Large" is just really not very specific, either -- a 
> "large"
> person could be very tall, or very fat, or full figured.  
> 
> .heather.
> 
> 
> > 
> > Dear Stevie.
> > I am very glad that you warned me about that word.
> > Silly me, i surely didnt want to be rude, and it was very careless 
> of me.
> > Now i used your word Junoeque in stead. Thanks for this Stevie, i 
> am glad
> > you told me.
> > 
> > 
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> > 
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 18:41:06 -0700
Status: RO

The way Heather phrases it is pretty spot-on, Bjarne.  I'm at the high
end of full-figured sizes, and I wasn't offended by your use of the term
"large," but it could be taken in a number of ways, like Heather says.
For instance, I think you'd have a H*ll of a time making stays for
me--I'm very big, fairly short, and have a bigger bust than most I've
met. And a friend of mine, who could also loosely be described as
"large," but who is almost a foot taller than I, would be a different
challenge altogether--smaller bust, bigger ribcage, longer proportions.
--sue, who bought, today, some lovely 50/2 silk for the tablet-woven
edges of her fitted-gown sleeves.....I love silk....*sigh*.....

Heather Meadows wrote:
> 
> the other polite options for American English are "full figured" and
> "Plus sized".  "Large" is just really not very specific, either -- a "large"
> person could be very tall, or very fat, or full figured.
> 
> .heather.
> 
> >
> > Dear Stevie.
> > I am very glad that you warned me about that word.
> > Silly me, i surely didnt want to be rude, and it was very careless of me.
> > Now i used your word Junoeque in stead. Thanks for this Stevie, i am glad
> > you told me.
> >
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 18:44:58 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, the endorphin rush is something else, isn't it? <g>
--Sue, who's pulled a few all-nighters herself!

Cabbage Rose wrote:
> 
> Just gotta love anyone who spends this much time thinking and "talking"
> about clothes, their beauty, their history and construction. The only
> difference between this list and heaven, is that in heaven, the dye lots
> will always be perfect, the fabric stash will never get bugs, and the
> costumes can be imagined into existence, without the backbreaking long
> nights of labor... wait I actually LIKE that part!
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 18:55:28 -0700
Status: RO

Ooooh! Cool new topic!
I have a couple of goals for next year--I'm making a wool and linen
fitted gown for a competition in February.  And I'm going to be making
new garb--some nice Flemish market stuff (16th c.), and maybe a couple
of outfits from the Manesse Codex.
And I plan on picking up my bobbin lace again--I've still got the notes
and such from your class this past winter.
My biggest project, though, will be finishing the embroidery on my
blackworked shift.  I want to have it done by next August....
--sue (not a lurker, though! <g>)

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hello the list!
> New year is not far away. What will be your next years projekts?
> I have some shoes to embroider, and maybe a stomacher.
> The shoes is going to be raised metal embroidery, and the stomacher will be
> mixed silks and metal thread.
> Then i am to make a polonaise dress.
> This is the things i have in my callendar.
> Then i think i want to make a late elizabethan dress.
> It is on time, that i have this period on my homepage.
> I never gets any renaissance orders, maybe because i dont have that period
> on the web.
> Perhaps i could sell it on ebay when i have made it.
> What about all you lurkers out there, let us hear what you wants to make!!!
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 18:17:09 -0800
Status: RO

Actually, that quote below  is from someone else's message. I didn't write
it.

What I pointed out is there are people who use poly cotton and other
synthetics from choice.  That that is an intentional goal, and they don't
appreciate being told they are ignorant and need to be "educated."

Fran

Jane Williams wrote:

> On 7 Dec 2002 at 15:22, Lavolta Press wrote:
>
> > >  People lurking on this
> > > list don't want to be told that a nice little polycotton mix will
> > > perfectly reproduce the handkerchief linen chemise they would like
> > > to have; they know perfectly well that it won't. Or at least they
> > > will know within 30 seconds of putting it on; there's a very large
> > > distinction between 'lurking' and 'stupid'. They want to learn. You
> > > can only learn by working at it, and sometimes that's hard. But
> > > putting vast amounts of time, energy and money into an ensemble
> > > which looks dreadful is a lot harder.
>
> I suspect that you underestimate the ignorance of
> some of us. I don't think I'm stupid as such, but as
> yet (well, until a few minutes ago!) I had no idea to
> what extent poly-cotton could or could not reproduce
> linen. Myy guess would err towards "not", but I've
> never had the experience to judge. I'd rather not
> waste large quantities of my time finding out the
> hard way: so when I need to know this sort of thing,
> I'll be asking amazingly ignorant questions. And,
> going by past experience, getting helpful and
> informative answers.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 21:29:10 2002
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From: "Kate Cole" <mrscakehole@hotmail.com>
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I know I'm a little late (gosh, haven't checked my e-mail in 24 hours – you 
people are prodigious!!) but I wanted to weigh in with my 2p worth on the 
whole lurkers/why aren't there so many subscribers anymore debate....

I've only been a member on this list for a few months, and I don't post very 
much. I have recently been  thinking a lot about unsubscribing. Why? Because 
it annoys me (and it's 2am and I'm fortified by a certain amount of wine and 
I figure I've got nothing to lose here) that, no matter what you post about, 
there are always people who seem to take pleasure in disagreeing with you, 
just for the hell of it. But, to my mind, actually,  NOBODY really knows 
what it was like in the time periods this list covers, NOBODY was there and 
the documented evidence is scarce to say the least, and usually restricted 
to certain levels of society. Frankly, it p***es me off that people think 
they have all the answers...

On a personal level, it also annoys me when people say (as has happened a 
lot recently), "Oh, the English are like this" or "xxxx happens/happened in 
England". As an English person, born and bred, and having worked in London 
for 10 years, there have been several things mentioned on this list recently 
relating to London and/or England that have been completely inaccurate, but 
although I've thought about replying, I haven't because I can't be bothered 
to get into that whole thing where someone tells me that's not how it is 
(even though I'm there every day).

I'm sorry if this is aggressive, I'm sorry if it sounds like a rant (which I 
guess it is) but I came on this list looking for interesting conversation 
and for the most part, I just see people nit-picking with other people – 
because they can. I guess I'll get flamed for this and I'm prepared to 
accept that because I know I'll just go back to being a lurker... Just 
thought I'd explain why.  And for the record, I went to a Ren Faire once in 
California and, even though I wasn't into costume in those days, was hugely 
insulted by the interpretation of England. To my mind, it was Renaissance 
Disney.

Kate

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec  7 21:29:19 2002
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References: <001901c29e43$10f60030$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 21:26:52 -0500
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Paperclay is fabulous stuff; I've made small anime props and accessories out
of it and love it to bits.  It's very fine-grained, so is very smooth and
pliable but air-dries (unlike fimo or sculpey) and can be sanded to a
porcelain finish.  It's easy to work with (all you need is water) and also
dries incredibly light.

-- Maral

the den of sarcasm
http://sarcasm.fanfic.org


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay


> Hello.
> I have just ben surfing a little on the internet and found some amzing
dolls
> made of paper clay.
> Are there anyone here, who knows this?
> Is it good to work with?
>
> Bjarne who is a little scared, i might find yeat another thing to
> do..............
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projekts.
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In a message dated 12/7/2002 8:56:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
mooncat@in-tch.com writes:


> What will be your next years projekts?
> 

I first have to finish up various garments for the Battle of New Orleans 
reenactment in January.  I know from experience that it can be cold, so I'm 
taking two wool spencers.  One is done and the other is in progress.  I also 
am planning a wool flannel petticoat for warmth, and would finally like to 
get my stays done.

I bought an ikat silk sari at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival last summer 
and would like to make a Regency/Federal period ball gown by June.  (We'll 
see if it gets done.)

But first, I must finish a princess outfit for my granddaughter for 
Christmas.  It is Simplicity pattern 5909.  This is a Renaissance-inspired 
look.  As I'm using some ivory polyester shantung I had on hand, the skirt 
will not be as full as the pattern (this is just for dress up anyway!)  The 
sleeves will be point d'esprit, and the vest purple velvet with rose gimp and 
silver lace trim.  Mom also requested a "princess hat," which I guess is a 
hennin, which will also be the velvet.

I have been trying to use fabrics I have on hand for current projects.  One 
of the spencers is a green wool I had planned for a skirt several years ago, 
and gold trims that I already had.  For the other spencer, I got a piece of 
camel-colored wool out of the cedar chest that was going to be a blazer about 
20 years ago.  I dyed it with Rit wine dye and it came out a nice rust color. 
 I'm lining it with white silk twill.

I admit, the sari was a new, and rather expensive, purchase.  But my husband 
had just bought himself a banjo for almost the same price, so I HAD to do 
something!

That only takes me through June.  I will need a new 1814 gown next summer, so 
have to start thinking about that.  And I bought some brown wool and velvet 
to make my husband a new tailcoat, so need to work that in somewhere.

Ann Wass

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Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/7/2002 8:56:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">What will be your next years projekts?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I first have to finish up various garments for the Battle of New Orleans reenactment in January.&nbsp; I know from experience that it can be cold, so I'm taking two wool spencers.&nbsp; One is done and the other is in progress.&nbsp; I also am planning a wool flannel petticoat for warmth, and would finally like to get my stays done.<BR>
<BR>
I bought an ikat silk sari at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival last summer and would like to make a Regency/Federal period ball gown by June.&nbsp; (We'll see if it gets done.)<BR>
<BR>
But first, I must finish a princess outfit for my granddaughter for Christmas.&nbsp; It is Simplicity pattern 5909.&nbsp; This is a Renaissance-inspired look.&nbsp; As I'm using some ivory polyester shantung I had on hand, the skirt will not be as full as the pattern (this is just for dress up anyway!)&nbsp; The sleeves will be point d'esprit, and the vest purple velvet with rose gimp and silver lace trim.&nbsp; Mom also requested a "princess hat," which I guess is a hennin, which will also be the velvet.<BR>
<BR>
I have been trying to use fabrics I have on hand for current projects.&nbsp; One of the spencers is a green wool I had planned for a skirt several years ago, and gold trims that I already had.&nbsp; For the other spencer, I got a piece of camel-colored wool out of the cedar chest that was going to be a blazer about 20 years ago.&nbsp; I dyed it with Rit wine dye and it came out a nice rust color.&nbsp; I'm lining it with white silk twill.<BR>
<BR>
I admit, the sari was a new, and rather expensive, purchase.&nbsp; But my husband had just bought himself a banjo for almost the same price, so I HAD to do something!<BR>
<BR>
That only takes me through June.&nbsp; I will need a new 1814 gown next summer, so have to start thinking about that.&nbsp; And I bought some brown wool and velvet to make my husband a new tailcoat, so need to work that in somewhere.<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coifs and me
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 21:46:02 -0500
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V-necklines for me, or anything that makes my already narrow shoulders look
even narrower.  Also, I've never worn a farthingale or pannier gown, but I
highly suspect I'd look very silly due to being quite short.

-- Maral


----- Original Message -----
From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 11:38 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Coifs and me


> Square necklines for me...
>
> T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 10:29 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Coifs and me
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I thought I'd combine a couple of recent threads by trying out a coif.
> Never again; I nearly had a heart attack when I looked in the mirror,
> so Heaven know's what it would do to an innocent bystander.
> Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
> ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them, or
> indeed others?
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 21:47:07 -0500
Status: RO

Ooh, that might be useful indeed.  Wow, thanks for all the suggestions
everybody!  ^_^

-- Maral


----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.


> Hi, Maral.  I remember your question from the first time you posted, but
> didn't have anything that could help you, since I'm pretty ignorant of
> Moorish cultures.
> It occurs to me, though, that I've seen some stuff on Andalusian Spain,
> which had a good mix of Christian and Muslim cultural influences.  I
> could dig that up, if you like?
> --Sue "not a lurker" Clemenger....;-)
>
> Herself-the-Elf wrote:
> >
> > I tried posting this earlier, but I'm not sure it got to the list.  Here
> > goes...
> >
> > Well now that I've pretty much solved my wedding dress problem, I'm
> > wondering about
> > my guy.  I don't think he's likely to want to wear a houppelande or some
> > such, and definitely not the silly shoes.  So I'm trying to think of
> > something different that would still be period (late 14th to early 15th
c).
> > He's got dark skin, so I was thinking maybe a nifty Moorish costume of
some
> > sort.  Does anybody have any information on Moorish (or any
> > middle-eastern/North African) costume of this era?  I haven't been able
to
> > find much detailed info online...
> >
> > -- Maral
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 19:05:56 -0800
Status: RO

Those fabulous beaded/embroidered/decorated Art Deco Dresses look like 
expensive bundles of neglected laundry on (pear shaped) me.

Theresa Eacker

Talia wrote:

> Square necklines for me...
Stevie wrote:
> I thought I'd combine a couple of recent threads by trying out a coif.
> Never again; I nearly had a heart attack when I looked in the mirror,
> so Heaven know's what it would do to an innocent bystander.
> Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
> ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them, or
> indeed others?
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
> 
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:04:37 -0500
Status: RO

Hello everyone,
I'd thought I would jump in instead of lurking and only asking
questions.
 I have too many things that I want to do for next year,it is doubtful I
can complete all of them.
First on my list is finishing the beading of under sleeves to a green
gown. Next is the Elizabethan coif. I have the linen, the silk thread (
I owe Bjarne thanks for the link to Nan's site) and the pattern (Thanks
to Drea's site ) and instructions, all I need is time and the know how.
Then I hope to make a Ropa. I have a black and gold fabric that I love,
whether its period or not I can see a Ropa every time I look at it.
I want to take two more classes on line.  I hope to enter another
competition, win or lose they are fun and test my endurance. 
I have two sets of 16th century man's outfits to make, which I hope to
have completed by July. Plus I hope to begin a 1650's gown.  I'm on the
hunt for the fabric and trim now. (I'm placing blame on Nicole for this
one.  I love the blue gown. I know its redundant but the Blue gown is
sinnfully beautiful.) To end this madness of mine I want to improve my
hat making skills.  I will attempt to make two more tall hats, another
Italian bonnet, and one more french hood.
All I want and need for Christmas is 36 hours in a day. 

I think that is my list of projects for next year for me. But something
always gets added.

Diana
-who is looking at two skirts to be stitched, one hat to be finished and
the under sleeves.
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 19:09:34 -0800
Status: RO

Oh, yeah, that'll do it for the pear=shaped species among us!!!

Theresa Eacker

N Kipar wrote

 > Peplos gowns: 'string' in the waist but excess fabric from top bloused over
> that = everything as wide as the widest part, the hips, and 'boat' neckline.
> *shudder*
> 
> Nicole
> 
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 16:17:00 +1300
Status: RO

> Oh wow, Lee, that looks JUST like what I would need for a lace of mine,
thanks
> for sharing this. I just fear that shipping from the US might be a tad
> expensive. :-( Still, I think I'll order some in the new year.

Try Dylon pre-colour. I use it and I understand it's available in the UK.
But now just reading that you've had problems with it.. I don't know what to
suggest. I find it took every last trace of a screaming fushia from 10m of
silk chiffon. And it managed to remove most of the dye in a silk saree (the
one I used for my Eowyn costume- it was a very dark red brown). I did find
for the saree I had to do it twice because of the dye content I assume. Very
stubborn and it was second hand so it must havce survived some washings;)

It's also pretty inexpensive so if you need two tubs it's not that big a
deal. And tubs for those not familiar with the stuff actually means a small
flat tin about 2 inches in diameter;)

I'm about to try using to remove colour from some metal and something lace;)
I don't think it's made from aluminium so it sould be fine. Bleaching it
just fades it a bit and the green to grey and I want it lighter than that.

I did find I had to stick very carefully to their instructions and when I
tried speeding it up it didn't work so well.

michaela





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 16:19:31 +1300
Status: RO

> I have just ben surfing a little on the internet and found some amzing
dolls
> made of paper clay.
> Are there anyone here, who knows this?
> Is it good to work with?

I use Das which is the same concept, probably different properties though:)
I make mixed media cats from it, the other media being cloth.

I do prefer polymer clays though to make dolls. And I mix sculpey, FIMO and
Du Kit to get a clay pliable enough but not too pliable for the sculpting
and neither brittle nor soft when baked.

Haven't made a doll in a while though. Maybe I'll go back to it at another
date:)

michaela



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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 19:18:16 -0800
Status: RO


> I'm having a hard time imagining how this works. I usually have a hard
> time trying to imagine what some technique looks like without a
> picture attached ;-) Could you try explaining it again? Or do you have
> pictures/sketches of this technique?

This is one which is almost impossible to really explain. Pictures 
work the best but I don't have a website to show my diagrams. And 
some people actually have to have it demonstrated slowly in front of 
them. (I've taught this class *far* too many times and it always 
absolutely exhausts me.)

I don't know of any good books which show all the techniques. The 
Costume Technician's Handbook has one of the techniques. I suspect 
that you could do a Google search online and find some pictures as 
well.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 19:18:16 -0800
Status: RO

T
> >Also, many people think that cartridge pleats are only sewn on one
> >edge (the top.) It really depends on the look one is going for. If
> >you want them to hang down, you sew them only at the top. If you want
> > to them to stand out some, you sew them at the top and bottom of the
> > pleat. 
> 
> Actually, if you want them to hang straight down, you sew them at the
> *bottom* of the pleat.  You're then left with the pleated section
> jutting out like a little shelf, a look some people like but I can't
> stand.  

You are making me wish we had a better way of exchanging drawings as 
we may be saying the same thing!

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 23:13:12 -0500
Status: RO

I have a couple of projects that I have been too busy to get to for at least 
12 months now:

A bliaut (in rust colored wool crepe) with a gold kirtle

A 1840's ball gown, in pale blue satin with a bertha of ivory-colored Alencon 
lace (machine made but still quite nice).  

At the rate I'm going at work, though, I wouldn't bet on my chances of getting 
either done in 2003....

Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 23:15:08 -0500
Status: RO

On Saturday 07 December 2002 10:09 pm, Theresa Eacker wrote:
> Oh, yeah, that'll do it for the pear=shaped species among us!!!
>
And *that* reminds me of the other fashion I look hideous in:  the miniskirt!  
(especially the microminis and no-waisted stuff of the 1960's and early 
1970s).  My thighs are disproportionately large compared to the rest of me, 
and I look grotesque in anything with a hemline signficantly above the knee.
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:09:51 +1100
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> I joined in the early 90's, while I was working in Tennessee.  After
I moved back to PA in the late 90's, I had some problems keeping
subscribed.  I would subscribe and after a couple of weeks I would
stop receiving digests.  After a couple of months of that I let the
whole thing lapse.  I picked the list up again two years ago and
haven't had any problems.
>

I had originally joined in the mid 90's but after a few years Real
Life (tm) intervened and I no longer had time to sift through the
amount of email this list can generate so I unsubscribed.

However I was recently reminded of the lists existence and thought it
might be time to come back and join in.

Baralier
--
Good planning and organisation are just crutches for people who can't
handle stress and caffeine.
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:30:08 +1100
Status: RO

> Sometimes I wonder if this list is really all about
english/american/aussie/
> etc etc etc translation... it seems every month the topic erupts Yet
Again
> of "what do YOU call that?" and it's usually not even sewing or
costume
> related.

I'd hazard a guess that in the process of researching costumes and the
background information the goes with them there are a lot of things
that people find that they don't understand. Sometimes it relates to
the construction of the garment (as the current thread on Tudor
pleating shows) other times it's more of a what is a such-and-such.

> I've been on the list almost ten years now, and I am still regularly
amazed
> how much that pops up.  that, more than any flaming that has ever
happened,
> is the only thing that's made me want to leave.  I just kind of
shake my
> head and go "that again?" and delete the next 100 - 150 messages
from the list.

As I'm sure happens when the discussion involves the minutae of 17th
century panniers if you have no interest in that area. Or the dyeing
of fabrics...

> But, it's a discussion list, and I guess that's what we like to
discuss.

Yup.

> *ducking before she gets flamed*

Nah.

Baralier
--
Good planning and organisation are just crutches for people who can't
handle stress and caffeine.
http://members.optushome.com.au/velvetspyder
Costumier & Reprobate

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From: Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com>
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Subject: Wonderful Site (wasRe: [h-cost] OT, but NOT a food question.)
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 21:08:34 -0800
Status: RO

To Baralier-

I clicked on your URL at the bottom of your msg - what a _GREAT_ site. 
Your photograph with the bats in the leafless tree is fabulous!!!  WOW!!

Thanks for letting us know about the kewl things going on down  your way!!

Theresa Eacker


Baralier wrote:

>>Sometimes I wonder if this list is really all about
>>
> english/american/aussie/
> 
>>etc etc etc translation... it seems every month the topic erupts Yet
>>
> Again
> 
>>of "what do YOU call that?" and it's usually not even sewing or
>>
> costume
> 
>>related.
>>
> 
> I'd hazard a guess that in the process of researching costumes and the
> background information the goes with them there are a lot of things
> that people find that they don't understand. Sometimes it relates to
> the construction of the garment (as the current thread on Tudor
> pleating shows) other times it's more of a what is a such-and-such.
> 
> 
>>I've been on the list almost ten years now, and I am still regularly
>>
> amazed
> 
>>how much that pops up.  that, more than any flaming that has ever
>>
> happened,
> 
>>is the only thing that's made me want to leave.  I just kind of
>>
> shake my
> 
>>head and go "that again?" and delete the next 100 - 150 messages
>>
> from the list.
> 
> As I'm sure happens when the discussion involves the minutae of 17th
> century panniers if you have no interest in that area. Or the dyeing
> of fabrics...
> 
> 
>>But, it's a discussion list, and I guess that's what we like to
>>
> discuss.
> 
> Yup.
> 
> 
>>*ducking before she gets flamed*
>>
> 
> Nah.
> 
> Baralier
> --
> Good planning and organisation are just crutches for people who can't
> handle stress and caffeine.
> http://members.optushome.com.au/velvetspyder
> Costumier & Reprobate
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  8 00:16:57 2002
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:15:55 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, Maral....
Sorry, but the ones I was thinking of, Nicole already beat me to them. 
So if you caught her post with the links, that's what I was thinking of,
too.
I guess great minds think alike, huh Nicole? Even if they're oh....7,000
miles apart? <weg>)
--sue

Herself-the-Elf wrote:
> 
> Ooh, that might be useful indeed.  Wow, thanks for all the suggestions
> everybody!  ^_^
> 
> -- Maral
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 9:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
> 
> > Hi, Maral.  I remember your question from the first time you posted, but
> > didn't have anything that could help you, since I'm pretty ignorant of
> > Moorish cultures.
> > It occurs to me, though, that I've seen some stuff on Andalusian Spain,
> > which had a good mix of Christian and Muslim cultural influences.  I
> > could dig that up, if you like?
> > --Sue "not a lurker" Clemenger....;-)
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  8 00:28:59 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:28:14 -0700
Status: RO

Hmmmm....the way I'm understanding T's explanation, it sounds like T's
using "top" to mean the pleats on the outer edge of the skirt, and
"bottom" to mean the pleats on the inner edge of the skirt.  So, "sewn
from the top" pleats would mean that the little ledge produced by the
cartridge pleats would be towards the inside, hence not visible.....
    |
    |
    |
    XX
    X
    X
(the dashes being the bodice, and the X's the skirt, with the outside of
the garment to the left).
And "sewing from the bottom" would put the little shelf to the outside
of the garment, like this:
     |
     |
     |
     |
   XX
   X
   X

Of course, sewing both "top" and "bottom" would give you:
     |
     |
     |
     |
   XX|
   X
   X

This last tends to make the whole skirt stand out from the body a
little.  I think it looks the neatest, but it *is* more work, and may
not give exactly the look you're after.
Sorry for the bad ASCII art....
--Sue's 2 euro-worth on a foggy Saturday night, when she *should* be in
the living room, sewing....;-P

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> T
> > >Also, many people think that cartridge pleats are only sewn on one
> > >edge (the top.) It really depends on the look one is going for. If
> > >you want them to hang down, you sew them only at the top. If you want
> > > to them to stand out some, you sew them at the top and bottom of the
> > > pleat.
> >
> > Actually, if you want them to hang straight down, you sew them at the
> > *bottom* of the pleat.  You're then left with the pleated section
> > jutting out like a little shelf, a look some people like but I can't
> > stand.
> 
> You are making me wish we had a better way of exchanging drawings as
> we may be saying the same thing!
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coifs and me
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:15:43 -0800
Status: RO

>Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
>ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them, or
>indeed others?
>
Unfortunately for me, considering my specialty, I look hideous in an
Elizabethan closed ruff. 

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:20:43 -0800
Status: RO

>It's a good word; I commend to you also 'statuesque' and, in the case
>of a short large lady, 'pocket Venus'.
>
I personally like to use the term "Sumptuous".  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:25:26 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:50 PM 12/07/2002 +0100, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>Hello.
>I have just ben surfing a little on the internet and found some amzing dolls
>made of paper clay.
>Are there anyone here, who knows this?
>Is it good to work with?
>
>Bjarne who is a little scared, i might find yeat another thing to
>do..............
>

Bad news, Bjarne, you've got another hobby on the way!  I've made a few
dolls with paper clay and I found it really easy to work with.  It's
basically a very fine grained paper maiche.  By wetting it or letting it
get mostly dry, you can work with it in any state from almost liquid to
leather like. It air drys and after it's dry you can carve and sand it for
even more detail.

Have fun!

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  8 01:33:59 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:36:10 -0800
Status: RO

At 07:18 PM 12/07/2002 -0800, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
>T
>> >Also, many people think that cartridge pleats are only sewn on one
>> >edge (the top.) It really depends on the look one is going for. If
>> >you want them to hang down, you sew them only at the top. If you want
>> > to them to stand out some, you sew them at the top and bottom of the
>> > pleat. 
>> 
>> Actually, if you want them to hang straight down, you sew them at the
>> *bottom* of the pleat.  You're then left with the pleated section
>> jutting out like a little shelf, a look some people like but I can't
>> stand.  
>
>You are making me wish we had a better way of exchanging drawings as 
>we may be saying the same thing!
>

Oh, me too!  I can't wait for email sketchpads!

When I'm talking about the shelf effect, I don't mean the spring out from
the waist you get when you sew both the top and bottom of the pleats to the
waistband.  That's lovely, and can give the same effect of a bumroll
without having to wear one, if the pleats are stiff enough.  I jsut don't
have enough room in my waist area for it to work for me.  What I'm talking
about being ugly is when just the bottoms of the pleats are sewn to the
edge of the waisband or yolk or whatever, and the folded edge of the
pleated section sticks out, bleah.  You don't see it much, thank goodness. 

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:41:29 -0800
Status: RO

I just got back from a trip to the Bay Area, and I saw the most peculiar
thing.  On University Avenue in Berkeley, there are a number of stores that
sell saris, shalwar kameeez, etc.  One of them had a sign in the window
that said, "Japanese Sari and Custom Tailoring".  What the heck?  Can
anyone tell me what a "japanese sari could possibly be? I'm baffled.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:41:29 -0800
Status: RO

I just got back from a trip to the Bay Area, and I saw the most peculiar
thing.  On University Avenue in Berkeley, there are a number of stores that
sell saris, shalwar kameeez, etc.  One of them had a sign in the window
that said, "Japanese Sari and Custom Tailoring".  What the heck?  Can
anyone tell me what a "japanese sari could possibly be? I'm baffled.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 08:28:21 -0000
Status: RO

On 7 Dec 2002 at 18:17, Lavolta Press wrote:

> Actually, that quote below  is from someone else's message. I didn't
> write it.

Whoops, sorry. It's been one of those weeks :(



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Designers
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 04:06:43 -0500
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00F2_01C29E6F.37EF8E00
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Kathleen,

I have just started on the bios.  I appreciate you volunteering.  I have to
locate my list again... it is in this office somewhere.  Some of the
designers I can find plenty of illustrations but have never seen written
word about them other than the illustration caption.  When you get started
in January write me and I will have located the list by then.

One of the reasons for this project is that most people know who the big
designers for certain periods are, but forget who the less known designers
were.  These little designers also made an important contribution to the
industry.  I just find it so sad that these designers were in international
publications every month.  Over the years, time forgets them.

One real puzzle to me is I have a lot of renderings of designs by Madeleine.
I suspect this is Vionnet in her early years, but I have not found
documentation that her house was named this from 1920-1925.  And I have not
found text documentation of a fashion house of Madeleine.  I have a 1922 NYC
reproduction designer client book with 33 large plates of Parisian designs.
There are some of Madaleine's designs.  So I know she must have been an
important designer.  BTW, this book is wonderful!!!! Each plate is a single
heavy cardboard-like material.  I couldn't believe I found this.

If you like Erte, you might want to see if you can find this book on eBay,
Art Deco Fashion by Martin Battersby.  Somehow I got a signed copy.  There
are wonderful plates in it from 1908 through the 20s.  Some of the plates
are from Bon Ton Ton, an art publication.  I searched for these plates on
eBay and the lowest price I found was $75.  Out of my price range for
fashion plates.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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<DIV>Kathleen,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have just started on the bios.&nbsp; I appreciate you =
volunteering.&nbsp;=20
I have to locate my list again... it is in this office somewhere.&nbsp; =
Some of=20
the designers I can find plenty of illustrations but have never seen =
written=20
word about them other than the illustration caption.&nbsp; When you get =
started=20
in January write me and I will have located the list by then.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>One of the reasons for this project is that most people know who =
the big=20
designers for certain periods are, but forget who the less =
known&nbsp;designers=20
were.&nbsp; These little designers also made an important contribution =
to the=20
industry.&nbsp; I just find it so sad that these designers were in =
international=20
publications every month.&nbsp; Over the years, time forgets them.&nbsp; =
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>One real puzzle to me is I have a lot of renderings of designs by=20
Madeleine.&nbsp; I suspect this is Vionnet in her early years, but I =
have not=20
found documentation that her house was named this from 1920-1925.&nbsp; =
And I=20
have not found text documentation of a fashion house of Madeleine.&nbsp; =
I have=20
a 1922 NYC&nbsp; reproduction designer&nbsp;client book with 33 large =
plates of=20
Parisian designs.&nbsp; There are some of Madaleine's designs.&nbsp; So =
I know=20
she must have been an important designer.&nbsp; BTW, this book is=20
wonderful!!!!&nbsp;Each&nbsp;plate is a single heavy cardboard-like=20
material.&nbsp; I couldn't believe I found this.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If you like Erte, you might want to see if you can find this book =
on eBay,=20
Art Deco Fashion by Martin Battersby.&nbsp; Somehow I got a signed =
copy.&nbsp;=20
There are wonderful plates in it from 1908 through the 20s.&nbsp; Some =
of the=20
plates are from Bon Ton Ton, an art publication.&nbsp; I searched for =
these=20
plates on eBay and the lowest price I found was $75.&nbsp; Out of my =
price range=20
for fashion plates.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.onlinecostumeball.com">http://www.onlinecostumeball.co=
m</A></DIV>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  8 04:17:59 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Designers
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 04:16:22 -0500
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Angela,

I am so bad with names of present day designers.  I keep seeing shows on
Style TV with these two guys who are designing bridal gowns that are vintage
inspired.  The beadwork is outstanding!!!!

Of present day designers, I really like Valentino for women and Armini for
men!  You can't beat a man in an Armini suit!!!!! Droll!!! Well, actually I
have been following these two designers for a few decades.  I also like Bill
Blass and Ralph Lauren for menswear... so classy!  Can you tell I sold
menswear for years?  My husband and I spend too much time watching Style TV.
We can watch the runway shows for hours.  We both love to critique the
collections.  One day I am going to make it to that NY University Symposium
with the top designers!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


------=_NextPart_000_0100_01C29E70.90ED6D00
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Angela,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I am so bad with names of present day&nbsp;designers.&nbsp; I keep =
seeing=20
shows on Style TV with these two guys who are designing bridal gowns =
that are=20
vintage inspired.&nbsp; The beadwork is outstanding!!!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Of present day designers, I really like Valentino for women and =
Armini for=20
men!&nbsp; You can't beat a man in an Armini suit!!!!! =
Droll!!!&nbsp;Well,=20
actually I have been following these two designers&nbsp;for a few =
decades.&nbsp;=20
I also like Bill Blass and Ralph Lauren for menswear... so classy!&nbsp; =
Can you=20
tell I sold menswear for years?&nbsp; My husband and I spend too much =
time=20
watching Style TV.&nbsp; We can watch the runway shows for hours.&nbsp; =
We both=20
love to critique the collections.&nbsp; One day I am going to make it to =
that NY=20
University Symposium with the top designers!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.onlinecostumeball.com">http://www.onlinecostumeball.co=
m</A></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peculiar Combination
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 22:17:18 +1300
Status: RO


> I just got back from a trip to the Bay Area, and I saw the most peculiar
> thing.  On University Avenue in Berkeley, there are a number of stores
that
> sell saris, shalwar kameeez, etc.  One of them had a sign in the window
> that said, "Japanese Sari and Custom Tailoring".  What the heck?  Can
> anyone tell me what a "japanese sari could possibly be? I'm baffled.

Not sure but I do know when I went saree shopping a lot of fabrics were
woven in Japan. That could possibly be something to do with it?

Particularly fine silk and the prints were very ... blossomy I suppose,
little round petals and quite different to the patterns I've got in my
collection of second hand ones.

michaela



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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:08:13 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Hi, Maral....

> I guess great minds think alike, huh Nicole? Even if they're oh....7,000
> miles apart? <weg>)

*grins* oh yes! But they also say 'fools seldom differ'. *winks*

*hugs Sue aaaaaaaaall over the pond and landmass*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Baralier's web site, was Re: [h-cost] OT, but NOT a food question.
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:38:56 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Baralier <baralier@optusnet.com.au> wrote: > > 

> As I'm sure happens when the discussion involves the minutae of 17th
> century panniers if you have no interest in that area. Or the dyeing
> of fabrics...

*winks* 18th century, 18th...

Anyway, I have been spending some time looking through your web site, when taht
was suggested (hadn't seen your link in the first place) and I am enjoying
myself immensely. GREAT photos of SUPER costumes! May I plug your site?

http://members.optushome.com.au/velvetspyder/

It did crash my Netscape 7 and Internet Explorer, but works fine on Netscape
4.7. Go figure *G*

Nicole - who was a Goth herself once upon a time from 17 onwards but kinda
stopped at 20 coz of realising that she loved the colours and clothes, but was
bored by the philosophy behind it. Whoops. :-)


=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 13:16:33 -0000
Status: RO

Fran wrote, in response to my note::

> > I don't think you have to apologise either. People lurking on this
> > list don't want to be told that a nice little polycotton mix will
> > perfectly reproduce the handkerchief linen chemise they would like
to
> > have; they know perfectly well that it won't. Or at least they
will
> > know within 30 seconds of putting it on; there's a very large
> > distinction between 'lurking' and 'stupid'. They want to learn.
You
> > can only learn by working at it, and sometimes that's hard. But
> > putting vast amounts of time, energy and money into an ensemble
which
> > looks dreadful is a lot harder.

> But not everyone considers a poly-cotton chemise to be a waste of
time
> and money.

I didn't say that they did.

>It suits some people perfectly well--not because they're
> ignorant, but because it fulfils their goals.

Again, I didn't suggest that they were ignorant.

>Whether it fulfils the
> goals of some other person who is not wearing it and does not
officially
> set goals for some organization they both belong to, is entirely
beside
> the point.

Since I didn't suggest that it was to the point I'm puzzled as to why
you are addressing this to me.

> Others would like to have the 100% linen but can't afford it. They
don't
> want to be told they are ignorant, that they "ought to" afford
linen,
> etc.

Again, I didn't suggest any of those things.

> If someone's outfit fulfils the goals _officially_ set by their
> organization or employer, and it fulfils their own goals in terms of
> what they want to wear, what they can afford, what they are able to
make,
> etc.--it is never a waste of time and money.

Again, I didn't suggest this not to be the case.

>There is no reason to throw
> something out just because of freelance criticism, on the net or
> elsewhere.

I entirely agree, not least because I don't have the sort of income
which allows me to throw things out willy-nilly.  But even if I did
have the money, I would regard doing so as symbolic of a culture which
trashes our planet and all the species we co-exist with here, and I
don't want to be like that.

> My point is that everyone, when posting, should consider that
h-costume
> has members with many different costuming goals.  Others may not
have the
> same goals  you do, but their goals are still valid for them.
>

Indeed so. I would suggest to you, however, that if you write lengthy
posts setting up strawman targets which you then demolish, then you
run the risk of people concluding that you don't have any real
arguments. Or wondering what your goals are.

Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  8 09:21:00 2002
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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 07:19:31 -0700
Status: RO

Oh Bjarne you are in trouble!!  You simply must ask for these books for
Christmas from your honey.  I do soft sculpture too, though I haven't
done a lot in paper clay-it is lovely stuff.  I have done sculpting in
regular clay too, it just does not compare to the paper clay.  If you
decide to get into it, look for the paper clay La Doll.  

Oh I am so excited to have someone else (especially you!) interested!!

Anatomy of a Doll: The Fabric Sculptor's Handbook -- by Susanna Oroyan,
et al; Paperback 
Buy new: $18.87 -- Used & new from: $14.85    
2.   Fantastic Figures: Ideas & Techniques Using the New Clays -- by
Susanna Oroyan; Paperback 
Buy new: $16.07 -- Used & new from: $12.74    
3.   Finishing the Figure: Doll Costuming, Embellishments, Accessories
-- by Susanna Oroyan; Paperback 
Buy new: $20.97 -- Used & new from: $18.98    

Sg


>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Margo Anderson
>Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 11:25 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
>
>At 11:50 PM 12/07/2002 +0100, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>Hello.
>>I have just ben surfing a little on the internet and found some amzing
dolls
>>made of paper clay.
>>Are there anyone here, who knows this?
>>Is it good to work with?
>>
>>Bjarne who is a little scared, i might find yeat another thing to
>>do..............
>>
>
>Bad news, Bjarne, you've got another hobby on the way!  I've made a few
>dolls with paper clay and I found it really easy to work with.  It's
>basically a very fine grained paper maiche.  By wetting it or letting
it
>get mostly dry, you can work with it in any state from almost liquid to
>leather like. It air drys and after it's dry you can carve and sand it
for
>even more detail.
>
>Have fun!
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>
>See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
>margospatterns.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Exchanging files etc-wasRE: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 07:22:30 -0700
Status: RO




>You are making me wish we had a better way of exchanging drawings as
>we may be saying the same thing!

I was just thinking the same thing.  I guess there is nothing that
prevents us from starting an H-Cost group on Yahoo or some other host
just to take advantage of the file exchange stuff.

Sg

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  8 09:41:44 2002
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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] next years projekts.
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 07:37:38 -0700
Status: RO

Finish the linen outfit with the shoulder rolls-gosh all I have left is
the trim and hem on the outer skirt!  But all the fun stuff is done-I am
bored with it now.

Do more research on some off-beat country and period that no one else is
doing.

Loose gown and coat-Elizabethan.

Figure out how to make those funky Swiss Headdresses,

Oh and the big 'round' German Headdresses too.

Lose 20 pounds so I can wear my costumes comfortably!

Write up instructions on organ pipe pleats and cartridge pleats and post
it somewhere so we can quit talking about it!!!  :)


What a great topic.  We should check back next year and see how well we
do :)

Sg




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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 16:00:09 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

I LOVED reading everyone's projects, now here goes, my far too optimistic list,
and I'm the world's slowest sewer. ;-) In no prticular order other than what
comes to mind:

- second gentleman's fine linen and lace shirt for Ben, bought 20 meters of
different qualities of linen at the market.

- new scarlet silk and silver tassel fringe Officer's sash for Ben, have the
silk, have the silver fringe, was too bored to make it yet.

- dark blue worsted wool lined with scarlet wool 1660s Officer's coat for Ben,
with silver lacing. All the material is already at home.

- worsted circular cloak for the 1660s and 70s, not sure about colour yet.

(now that I have him out of the way)

- lower class 1700 dark green wool bodice. I got the leather stays to go
underneath at the re-enactor's market last month.

- diverse linen coifs for different decades and levels of society. Toiles are
cut out already.

- dark red silk split petticoat, to go with the dark red 1660s bodice that
Bjarne made me, to be worn over an ivory silk petticoat, thus I already have
the fabric, it will be lined with the ivory silk from below.

- new ivory silk and gold laced petticoat because the stupid thing got totally
ruined at a re-enactment this year. ARGH! Mud is NOT good.... must get new silk
from Whaley's and use this one as lining.

(now ontowards fantasy costumes)

- the Queen of Shadows black Elizabethan dress from Margo's patterns.

- the Eowyn white Pre-raphaelite dress, arms and armour either borrowed from
ben or Colin or made for me as prezzies from Ben.

- the Knight of Shadows/guard of the Queen Byzantine style tunics/cloak for Ben
to go with my Queen.

(last but not least some mundane clothing)

- Folkwear poet's shirt, already cut out of a lovely ribbed glazed cotton.

- machine blackwork embroidered ivory glazed cotton shirt, already cut out,
partly assembled and mostly embroidered.

- kind-of-1700 coat/waistcoat, totally inauthentic because of being assembled
from different decades, pattern by Sarah Thursfield custom pattern maker, made
out of the remains of the black and silver brocade my mantua is made of, lined
with scarlet silk, as my wedding outfit for my best friend's wedding!

and most important of the whole lot:

- white linen and fine lace baby bonnet, inspired by 18th century ones, for my
godchild-to-be for (her, oh yes, it appears to be a 'her', a little Elizabeth!
so the last scan said, yippieh!) the christening.

- baby blanket in purple or dark red soft fleece with golden stars.

- soft baby toys, Saragrace sent me some great links.

To sum it all up: I will NEVER finish all of the above, but a girl can dream
and have plans :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:01:31 -0500
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_043E_01C29EA9.2B6FE410
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I've read the recent laments re: lack of image transfer on h-costume, and I
have a few ideas:

1) Doesn't H-costume have a website? If so, could images be submitted for
posting here, and a link provided to them?

2) Yahoo (yes, I know - lousy privacy issues - but bear with me) - you can
start a Group or Photo Album for the express purpose of posting/sharing
sketches and photos. Yahoo provides a lot of free disc space and if
compressed well images do not take up much space so they could be left
indefinitely.

Thoughts?

Allison

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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I've read the recent laments re: lack of image =
transfer on h-costume, and I have a few ideas:</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>1) Doesn't H-costume have a website? If so, could =
images be submitted for posting here, and a link provided to =
them?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>2) Yahoo (yes, I know - lousy privacy issues - but =
bear with me) - you can start a Group or Photo Album for the express =
purpose of posting/sharing sketches and photos. Yahoo provides a lot of =
free disc space and if compressed well images do not take up much space =
so they could be left indefinitely.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Thoughts?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Allison</FONT>
</P>

</BODY>
</HTML>
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 08:09:10 -0800
Status: RO


> >You are making me wish we had a better way of exchanging drawings as
> >we may be saying the same thing!
> 
> I was just thinking the same thing.  I guess there is nothing that
> prevents us from starting an H-Cost group on Yahoo or some other host
> just to take advantage of the file exchange stuff.

Nothing except for people like me who can't do their on-line stuff.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:59:15 -0500
Status: RO

<<<!) I had no idea to 
what extent poly-cotton could or could not reproduce 
linen. >>>

        Ok,  from someone who would love to be totally authentic but
finances get in the way.  I have owned some really good handkerchief
linen in my past and quite honestly, cotton batiste is a decent
substitute.  Poly cotton batiste will look just as good, but it sure
won't feel it.  Linen is wonderful next to the skin.  It is cool and it
breathes and it wicks the sweat away.  Cotton is fairly cool and it
breathes and it holds the dampness like a sponge.  Poly cotton is warm
when you put it on, breathes little and will be sticky and uncomfortable
in short order in hot weather.  From the viewpoint of an observer they
will all pass the ten foot test, but from the viewpoint of the wearer
they are very, very different.

        By the way, the chemise I just made is cotton because I can't
even find decent handkerchief linen and couldn't afford it if I could.  I
am talking about really nice tight weave sheer handkerchief linen, not
the coarse, loose weave stuff they call handkerchief linen most places.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:02:29 -0500
Status: RO

        My pink polished cotton Tudor is almost done.  I have the silk
dupioni, velvet, silk satin, and metallic gold lace to do it right.  Next
year I will be working on the Queen Mary gown in proper fabrics!!!!   Yea

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 10:01:02 -0600
Status: RO

Could be a cross-language boo-boo. Perhaps it was meant to say something
like
"Japanese (clothing), Saris, and Custom Tailoring"?

T.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 12:41 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Peculiar Combination


I just got back from a trip to the Bay Area, and I saw the most peculiar
thing.  On University Avenue in Berkeley, there are a number of stores that
sell saris, shalwar kameeez, etc.  One of them had a sign in the window
that said, "Japanese Sari and Custom Tailoring".  What the heck?  Can
anyone tell me what a "japanese sari could possibly be? I'm baffled.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 12:23:05 -0500
Status: RO



Margo Anderson wrote:
> 

> When I'm talking about the shelf effect, I don't mean the spring out from
> the waist you get when you sew both the top and bottom of the pleats to the
> waistband.  That's lovely, and can give the same effect of a bumroll
> without having to wear one, if the pleats are stiff enough.  I jsut don't
> have enough room in my waist area for it to work for me.  What I'm talking
> about being ugly is when just the bottoms of the pleats are sewn to the
> edge of the waisband or yolk or whatever, and the folded edge of the
> pleated section sticks out, bleah.  You don't see it much, thank goodness.
> 


In a panic here. Can you or did you see that on mine on your site?  It
would be easy to redo if I have that on my two gowns.  I learn more and
more each day. If you can see that on my skirts show me please.

Diana C.
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 10:31:47 -0700
Status: RO

Hey, Dhannti....what's the addy for your website?
--sue

Dhannti wrote:
> 
> Margo Anderson wrote:
> >
> 
> > When I'm talking about the shelf effect, I don't mean the spring out from
> > the waist you get when you sew both the top and bottom of the pleats to the
> > waistband.  That's lovely, and can give the same effect of a bumroll
> > without having to wear one, if the pleats are stiff enough.  I jsut don't
> > have enough room in my waist area for it to work for me.  What I'm talking
> > about being ugly is when just the bottoms of the pleats are sewn to the
> > edge of the waisband or yolk or whatever, and the folded edge of the
> > pleated section sticks out, bleah.  You don't see it much, thank goodness.
> >
> 
> In a panic here. Can you or did you see that on mine on your site?  It
> would be easy to redo if I have that on my two gowns.  I learn more and
> more each day. If you can see that on my skirts show me please.
> 
> Diana C.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] LOTR
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:35:34 -0500
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Just got this site from another list and haven't had time to peruse it
thoroughly, but it looks promising.  http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:24:26 -0500
Status: RO

<<<I personally like to use the term "Sumptuous".>>>  
         
        OOOh Margo, I like your term better than mine.  I just call
myself an old fat lady.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 18:40:00 +0100
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My next years projects

This is wat I want to do before March

Make some stuf to sell at medieval market.
Childrens clothing,  ragdolls and some other things...


These three I want finished before June.

Make the left sleeve for my 16th century (wedding) dress.
I hope I soon wil finish my right sleeve. :-(
I am bored with the embroidery pattern.

Finishing A parlet for the same dress.

Finish my loosegown.


And other stuff

Get a lot further, maby even finish my embroidered forpart.
 
A 16th century dress like my weddingdress but different sleeves from 
Green/gold and pink silk.
I plan to sell it on eBay, if I can part with it ;-) (It will be in my 
size).

Make pin on sleeves for my 15th century lowerclass gown. (Green gown and 
the sleeves will be dark blue)

Make a 18th or 19th century gown. At least a dress from afther the 16th 
century. (Firsth buy Patterns of Fashion 1 and 2 :-) )

Have to find out how to put all the tings I want on my website without 
going over my limit. This will be hard because I almost reached it...
I think I have to take out the wedding gallery :-( .

Make two gembersons from linnen stuffed with wool.

Make 16th century stockings...?

Make a Italian renaissance Barbie fearie :-) .


I am wondering If people look back on the end of next year and read what 
they planned to do, how much of their projects will be finished?
(I need a course in how to wright english....)

Greetings,
        Deredere
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/




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My next years projects<br>
<br>
<font color="#000099">This is wat I want to do before March<br>
<br>
Make some stuf to sell at medieval market.<br>
Childrens clothing,&nbsp; ragdolls and some other things...</font><br>
<br>
<br>
<font color="#993399">These three I want finished before June.<br>
<br>
Make the left sleeve for my 16th century (wedding) dress.<br>
I hope I soon wil finish my right sleeve.<span class="moz-smiley-s2"><span>
:-( </span></span><br>
I am bored with the embroidery pattern.<br>
<br>
Finishing A parlet for the same dress.<br>
<br>
Finish my loosegown.</font><br>
<br>
<br>
And other stuff<br>
<br>
Get a lot further, maby even finish my embroidered forpart.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
A 16th century dress like my weddingdress but different sleeves from Green/gold
and pink silk.<br>
I plan to sell it on eBay, if I can part with it<span
 class="moz-smiley-s3"><span> ;-) </span></span>(It will be in my size).<br>
<br>
Make pin on sleeves for my 15th century lowerclass gown. (Green gown and
the sleeves will be dark blue)<br>
<br>
Make a 18th or 19th century gown. At least a dress from afther the 16th century.
(Firsth buy Patterns of Fashion 1 and 2<span class="moz-smiley-s1"><span>
:-) </span></span>)<br>
<br>
Have to find out how to put all the tings I want on my website without going
over my limit. This will be hard because I almost reached it...<br>
I think I have to take out the wedding gallery<span
 class="moz-smiley-s2"><span> :-( </span></span>.<br>
<br>
Make two gembersons from linnen stuffed with wool.<br>
<br>
Make 16th century stockings...?<br>
<br>
Make a Italian renaissance Barbie fearie<span class="moz-smiley-s1"><span>
:-) </span></span>.<br>
<br>
<br>
I am wondering If people look back on the end of next year and read what
they planned to do, how much of their projects will be finished?<br>
(I need a course in how to wright english....)<br>
<br>
Greetings,<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/">http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</body>
</html>

--------------010708040904000203060202--


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 09:50:04 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:23 PM 12/08/2002 -0500, Dhannti wrote:
>In a panic here. Can you or did you see that on mine on your site?  It
>would be easy to redo if I have that on my two gowns.  I learn more and
>more each day. If you can see that on my skirts show me please.
>
First off, if you did do it that way, I can't see it because your bodices
both have skirtings that cover the pleats.  Secondly, "ugly" is my own
opinion, not a fact.  If you did it that way, you like it, it works for
you, and no one can tell anyway, it ain't broke, and you don't need to fix it.

Don't take what I say here quite so rigorously; I'm just the lady who makes
the patterns some of you find helpful.  It's not like I'm Moses or Janet
Arnold!  Come to think of it, I have quibbles with things both of them said...

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:57:07 -0500
Status: RO

 
<<<Don't take what I say here quite so rigorously; I'm just the lady who
makes
the patterns some of you find helpful.  It's not like I'm Moses or Janet
Arnold!>>>

        But you are alive and able to answer questions and I consider you
just as much an authority on Elizabethan as Janet Arnold.   Don't know
what I would do without your pattern.  Now, please make one for the
Tudors (a bit earlier and not quite so gaudy) so I won't have to modify
the Elizabethan.  

        Don't know about the Moses part, but I suspect you would come out
pretty well in a debate there too.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:44:14 +0000
Status: RO

I've generally found that Dylon dye-stripper won't take out much except 
Dylon dye.  It works to strip and re-dye something you home-dyed in the 
first place, but it doesn't usually work on something you bought 
coloured.  I suppose it's probably not vicious enough to take out the 
kind of evil industrial chemicals they can use to dye in the 
manufacturing process.

Jean


Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote
>>Nope, I tried it and didn't work. Ecover bleach was actually better than
>the
>Dylon stuff. Perhaps the Dharma trading one would work on the cotton lace
>that
>I have.
>
>
>I believe Dylon takes dye away rather than bleaches, if the cotton is ecru
>(I missed the rest of the thread ) you will need a bleach, Hydrogen peroxide
>is better than UK floor bleach
>
>Mel
>This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
>it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
>the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
>this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
>Company, unless specifically stated.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Delurking . . . with a Roman Question
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:50:06 +0000
Status: RO

Linda Walton <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com> wrote
>Hello Everyone !
>
>Since there seems to be a mood of helpfulness abroad, and not many questions
>being asked to use it up, I've nerved myself to ask about the subject that's
>been worrying me lately.  I know it's not the sort of historic costume that
>this group usually finds itself discussing, but someone may know about it.
>Web searches have produced only fairly thin information so far, and the
>books I have available are very vague indeed.
>
>Please, how do I dress as a fairly wealthy Roman lady of the time of Cicero
>?
>
>It is for a party with my Latin class on 17th December, so I would like it
>to be as authentic as I can manage, and - especially - I would like to be
>able to answer questions about it.  So where my clothing isn't very
>accurate, I would like to be able to explain about it.
>
>Here are some specific areas that I am wondering about:-
>1.  What about underwear ?  I want to get the general shape right, and have
>heard that Roman ladies wore - among other things - corsets, but don't know
>when, or what sort.  (This particularly concerns me because I must wear a
>bra, due to mastectomy/prosthesis requirements, and I'm fairly plump, too.)
>2.  How should I decorate the fabric ?  I've heard of gold thread in finds:
>would that be couched embroidery ?  I've got some good linen waiting to be
>used, but could only add simple embroidery in the time available - what
>patterns would be appropriate ?  What about coloured wools ?  (If the only
>answer is woven gold threads, or complicated sewing, then I'd better go down
>the social scale a bit !)
>3.  What about hairstyles and jewellery ?  I've got long straight hair, and
>couldn't go in for a great bush of little curls:  could I get away with
>putting it up in a bun like the Greek ladies.  I know I won't need a veil,
>(thank goodness), but should I have some other sort of head-dress ?

For a respectable, upper-class lady you definitely need a 
shawl/stole/thingy.  Like the ones that are fashionable at the moment 
with sleeveless wedding dresses, a large, long rectangle of something 
quite thin, that you would put over your head outside and wear around 
shoulders or just across your back and caught over your arms indoors. 
If you don't have time to find additional fabric, try Accessorise - I 
wish I had an excuse to get one of their fabulous gold-embroidered 
organza wraps!

Jean


>Were
>necklaces very common ?  I do have some rings, brooches and a bracelet that
>are copies of finds, would they be enough ?
>
>Finally, I would like to thank everyone for the immense pleasure I have had
>over the years from reading your replies to even the most abstruse of
>costuming questions, whether historical research or theatrical
>practicalities,
>
>yours sincerely,
>Linda Walton,
>(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:51:09 +0000
Status: RO

No, hedgehogs can't carry giraffes.  Giraffes can't get their feet that 
close together.


Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote
>Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or perhaps
>another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery hoops
>ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another alternative?
>Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding hand owing
>to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.
>
>Thank you for your help.
>
>Arlys in Oregon
>
>
>________________________________________________________________
>Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
>Only $9.95 per month!
>Visit www.juno.com
>_______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 20:15:48 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Saragrace.
Yes i am in troubble, and you sertanly help me a lot!
Are there any suppliers of it who send to Europe.
Suppliers of paper clay?
Because i have not seen it anywhere here in Denmark.
But i have not looked for it. Perhaps they do have it if i ask about it.
This would be a very nice way to use my lace. on the dolls!

Bjarne
 

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 3:19 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay


> Oh Bjarne you are in trouble!!  You simply must ask for these books for
> Christmas from your honey.  I do soft sculpture too, though I haven't
> done a lot in paper clay-it is lovely stuff.  I have done sculpting in
> regular clay too, it just does not compare to the paper clay.  If you
> decide to get into it, look for the paper clay La Doll.  
> 
> Oh I am so excited to have someone else (especially you!) interested!!
> 
> Anatomy of a Doll: The Fabric Sculptor's Handbook -- by Susanna Oroyan,
> et al; Paperback 
> Buy new: $18.87 -- Used & new from: $14.85    
> 2.   Fantastic Figures: Ideas & Techniques Using the New Clays -- by
> Susanna Oroyan; Paperback 
> Buy new: $16.07 -- Used & new from: $12.74    
> 3.   Finishing the Figure: Doll Costuming, Embellishments, Accessories
> -- by Susanna Oroyan; Paperback 
> Buy new: $20.97 -- Used & new from: $18.98    
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
> >Behalf Of Margo Anderson
> >Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 11:25 PM
> >To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
> >
> >At 11:50 PM 12/07/2002 +0100, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >>Hello.
> >>I have just ben surfing a little on the internet and found some amzing
> dolls
> >>made of paper clay.
> >>Are there anyone here, who knows this?
> >>Is it good to work with?
> >>
> >>Bjarne who is a little scared, i might find yeat another thing to
> >>do..............
> >>
> >
> >Bad news, Bjarne, you've got another hobby on the way!  I've made a few
> >dolls with paper clay and I found it really easy to work with.  It's
> >basically a very fine grained paper maiche.  By wetting it or letting
> it
> >get mostly dry, you can work with it in any state from almost liquid to
> >leather like. It air drys and after it's dry you can carve and sand it
> for
> >even more detail.
> >
> >Have fun!
> >
> >Margo
> >"One Tough Costumer"
> >
> >
> >See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> >margospatterns.com
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 09:01:20 -0500
Status: RO

At 01:20 AM 12/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I am surprised on how the membership has dropped.  Years ago there were
>about 800 members.  I guess with all various costume lists people went into
>their our specialty.
>
>Penny Ladnier

Most likely.  Though I do think that's a shame, in some ways.  I find that 
when a list is focused on just one period, the discussions aren't as 
rich...  For instance, on the 18thcWoman list (on yahoo), many of the 
members are so very focused on the late 18th c. (American Revolution) that 
they haven't got a clue about what was happening earlier, as though history 
as a whole doesn't exist before the Am. Revolution.  Which is silly, since 
you really HAVE to know something about European history and technology 
(and costume) in the 17th century to understand the evolution of those 
things in the 18th century.

I also find that lots of 18th c. reenactors expect everything to be quite 
primitive and rough, whereas those of us who have studied medieval and 
Renaissance history know that there was a lot of advanced technology and 
craftsmanship in Europe prior to the 18th century, and people didn't 
suddenly drop it all when they got to the colonies.

Part of the fault probably lies with the American schools; I don't think 
they focus on or emphasize European history prior to the Am. Revolution at 
all, and isn't that great on world history in general.  Or at least that 
was the case when I was in school...

Anyway, my point is that often people focus on just one time period, in 
costume, history or any other subject, and don't learn anything about the 
broader picture.  I think this is a shame, because if you don't have the 
whole context, you're missing a lot.

I used to post more than I do now because I've got less free time to read 
the list, unfortunately!

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 10:15:28 -0500
Status: RO

At 01:27 PM 12/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>  The answers I got were
>helpful and no one flamed me for making a pink polished cotton Tudor
>gown.  If it works, I will make the same gown in the proper fabrics, but
>Margo's wonderful Elizabethan patterns only go so far in helping with
>Tudor clothing.

Actually, I'd love to know where one can find polished cotton :D

I was looking for some for a 19th c. project, and we finally found some, 
but most of what I've seen for sale is a poly blend, which is just TOO hot...

-- Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 10:33:47 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, Kathleen,
What decade of the 18th c. is the site working with?

I haven't seen any evidence for knitted hoods in the late 18th century, but 
how about short cloaks (elbow-length) with hoods, made out of coating 
wool?  The hoods could be lined with linen or silk (or, since this is a 
historical site with presumably a limited budget, a modern lining material 
that looks like silk), and tied at the neck with a wool ribbon.  Don't line 
the body of the cloak (that's more of a 19th c. thing), and leave the 
bottom edge of the cloak unhemmed; the wool should be sufficiently fulled 
that it will hold an edge.

These would be faster to make than knitted hoods, too, since you presumably 
need them for this winter's activities...?  If you have access to Beth 
Gilgun's _Tidings from the 18th Century_, she has a pattern for a 
full-length cloak that you could use for a shorter version.  This is a good 
time of year to look in the fabric store for coating remnants, too; you 
could probably get some great deals.  I don't think an elbow-length cloak 
requires that much material (I'm guessing maybe a yard and a half of 60" 
wide fabric, though you'd want to lay the pattern out to be sure). The body 
of the cloak is a half-circle, gathered to the hood, which is roughly 
rectangular in shape, with a seam down the back and with some gathers at 
the top of the seam (at the crown of the head) so that the hood doesn't 
have a 'point' on it.  It's hard to describe properly, but it's pretty easy 
to make.

The most common color for women's cloaks in the 18th c. was red, but other 
colors like black or grey weren't unknown, either.  I think shorter cloaks 
might have been more common in the middle of the 18th century than the end, 
but still would be a better option, IMO, than knitted hoods.  Better to be 
a little old-fashioned than use something that hadn't been invented yet :)

Cheers,
Mara

At 02:06 PM 12/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>One of the historical houses I assist with is expanding its costume/ 
>education program. Since we are in a probable winter clime, there has been 
>a request for 'head covers' to wear outside on the street...that will be 
>warm. What are some of the credible resources that will best answer this 
>problem.  I have some Fascinators from the mid 19th C and wonder if these 
>knitted hoods might have been a rediscovery then, of an earlier time.Any 
>thoughts?   Kathleen

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 09:35:55 -0500
Status: RO

At 12:04 PM 12/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>My impression is at times, that folks (with notable exceptions) deal a 
>little harshly with people who take 'shortcuts' (i.e., 1/4" steels in a 
>1570s pair of bodies, for instance) that were perfectly acceptable ten 
>years ago.

Personally, I don't have a problem with steel boning in this context!  Some 
of us like to try, say, reed boning because it's interesting to see how it 
works and what the differences are.  And if I can't see it or tell that a 
modern material is used in the finished product you're wearing, then it 
makes no difference to me!

A group I'm in just had its annual meeting; we're talking about clothing 
guidelines, among other things.  The guy who put together our men's 
clothing guidelines framework did it so there are categories: "Most 
accurate", "Good", "Minumum acceptable", and "Unacceptable".  A cotton 
shift and wool-poly blend petticoat or jacket, for instance, would be 
acceptable under our guidelines; that gets people in the door, and they can 
improve their outfits over time as they can afford to.  I suspect that even 
so, the guidelines are a little intimidating to newbies looking at 
them.  My own kit has some items that are pretty accurate, but I don't 
think it'll ever be 100% perfect, because I don't have the time to sit down 
and sew everything totally by hand (like the inside seams on my jacket, or 
the boning channels on my stays), nor do I see the need in many cases to do 
so.  The guidelines are what we can aspire to, but realistically few will 
ever reach that "100% accurate" level of reenacting.

However, I do want to know HOW things were done in 18th c. costume so that 
a) I can use those techniques wherever possible or practical (I like 
hand-sewing, when I have the luxury of enough time to do it!) and b) I can 
figure out a way to replicate those results using some modern shortcuts on 
my sewing machine in such a way that I'm still achieving as period a look 
as possible.

Cheers,
Mara

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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:47:07 -0700
Status: RO

Bjarne, here are some links.  Go to the bottom of the page for non-US
suppliers.  If you don't have any luck, let me know and I can send you
some.  It is made in Japan, so theoretically you may have better luck
getting a supplier than then us in the US.  

Oh, and if you need an email list to join-I know where to send you :)

http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/MainPages/supplysources.htm

Sg


>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
>Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 12:16 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
>
>Hi Saragrace.
>Yes i am in troubble, and you sertanly help me a lot!
>Are there any suppliers of it who send to Europe.
>Suppliers of paper clay?
>Because i have not seen it anywhere here in Denmark.
>But i have not looked for it. Perhaps they do have it if i ask about
it.
>This would be a very nice way to use my lace. on the dolls!
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 3:19 PM
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
>
>
>> Oh Bjarne you are in trouble!!  You simply must ask for these books
for
>> Christmas from your honey.  I do soft sculpture too, though I haven't
>> done a lot in paper clay-it is lovely stuff.  I have done sculpting
in
>> regular clay too, it just does not compare to the paper clay.  If you
>> decide to get into it, look for the paper clay La Doll.
>>
>> Oh I am so excited to have someone else (especially you!)
interested!!
>>
>> Anatomy of a Doll: The Fabric Sculptor's Handbook -- by Susanna
Oroyan,
>> et al; Paperback
>> Buy new: $18.87 -- Used & new from: $14.85
>> 2.   Fantastic Figures: Ideas & Techniques Using the New Clays -- by
>> Susanna Oroyan; Paperback
>> Buy new: $16.07 -- Used & new from: $12.74
>> 3.   Finishing the Figure: Doll Costuming, Embellishments,
Accessories
>> -- by Susanna Oroyan; Paperback
>> Buy new: $20.97 -- Used & new from: $18.98
>>
>> Sg
>>
>>
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]
On
>> >Behalf Of Margo Anderson
>> >Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 11:25 PM
>> >To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@indra.com
>> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
>> >
>> >At 11:50 PM 12/07/2002 +0100, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> >>Hello.
>> >>I have just ben surfing a little on the internet and found some
amzing
>> dolls
>> >>made of paper clay.
>> >>Are there anyone here, who knows this?
>> >>Is it good to work with?
>> >>
>> >>Bjarne who is a little scared, i might find yeat another thing to
>> >>do..............
>> >>
>> >
>> >Bad news, Bjarne, you've got another hobby on the way!  I've made a
few
>> >dolls with paper clay and I found it really easy to work with.  It's
>> >basically a very fine grained paper maiche.  By wetting it or
letting
>> it
>> >get mostly dry, you can work with it in any state from almost liquid
to
>> >leather like. It air drys and after it's dry you can carve and sand
it
>> for
>> >even more detail.
>> >
>> >Have fun!
>> >
>> >Margo
>> >"One Tough Costumer"
>> >
>> >
>> >See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
>> >margospatterns.com
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >h-costume mailing list
>> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 14:02:46 -0600
Status: RO

Hi Margo,


I used to live in the Indian neighborhood here in the Windy City and I
love saris. The term Japanese Sari refers to a type of polyester
imitation silk fabric popular for saris. It looks and drapes alot like
silk, but is much easier to care for which ladies who wear saries
everyday seem to appreciate. 


Karen


On Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:41:29 -0800 Margo Anderson
<margo@margospatterns.com> writes:
> I just got back from a trip to the Bay Area, and I saw the most 
> peculiar
> thing.  On University Avenue in Berkeley, there are a number of 
> stores that
> sell saris, shalwar kameeez, etc.  One of them had a sign in the 
> window
> that said, "Japanese Sari and Custom Tailoring".  What the heck?  
> Can
> anyone tell me what a "japanese sari could possibly be? I'm 
> baffled.
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
> 
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 14:02:46 -0600
Status: RO

Hi Margo,


I used to live in the Indian neighborhood here in the Windy City and I
love saris. The term Japanese Sari refers to a type of polyester
imitation silk fabric popular for saris. It looks and drapes alot like
silk, but is much easier to care for which ladies who wear saries
everyday seem to appreciate. 


Karen


On Sat, 07 Dec 2002 22:41:29 -0800 Margo Anderson
<margo@margospatterns.com> writes:
> I just got back from a trip to the Bay Area, and I saw the most 
> peculiar
> thing.  On University Avenue in Berkeley, there are a number of 
> stores that
> sell saris, shalwar kameeez, etc.  One of them had a sign in the 
> window
> that said, "Japanese Sari and Custom Tailoring".  What the heck?  
> Can
> anyone tell me what a "japanese sari could possibly be? I'm 
> baffled.
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
> 
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

________________________________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [h-cost]Working too hard/ was: how many of us are there?
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:11:38 -0800
Status: RO

Yeah, I'm one sick puppy.  My right arm has been numb off and on for four
months, while healing from a pinched nerve in my neck acquired while
appliqueing rhinestones to a cape for my "Pharoah" (think Elvis) in Joseph
and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat.  One would think I'd give it up, but
NO, I'll just purchase a massage unit and make my kids massage my neck the
next time!  BTW, the cape was amazing! Almost solid rhinestones forming this
really cool Egyptian design.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?


> Yeah, the endorphin rush is something else, isn't it? <g>
> --Sue, who's pulled a few all-nighters herself!
>
> Cabbage Rose wrote:
> >
> > Just gotta love anyone who spends this much time thinking and "talking"
> > about clothes, their beauty, their history and construction. The only
> > difference between this list and heaven, is that in heaven, the dye lots
> > will always be perfect, the fabric stash will never get bugs, and the
> > costumes can be imagined into existence, without the backbreaking long
> > nights of labor... wait I actually LIKE that part!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Designers
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:13:42 -0800
Status: RO

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I'll bet you they are Badgely Mischka!  Beadwork is their specialty and =
they are very popular. I imagine second still to Vera Wang Queen of =
Weddings, but they are really gifted.  They cut off Style TV as one of =
my cable channels last year!  I was so mad... hopefully I'll get it =
back.  Instead I browse "FirstView.com" which is all you'd ever need to =
see about fashion. =20

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes=20
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

Theatrical Costume Design
"O! Swear not by the moon, the inconstant moon,=20
That monthly changes in her circled orb,
Lest that thy love prove likewise variable."
Romeo & Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Penny Ladnier=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 1:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite Designers


  Angela,

  I am so bad with names of present day designers.  I keep seeing shows =
on Style TV with these two guys who are designing bridal gowns that are =
vintage inspired.  The beadwork is outstanding!!!!

  Of present day designers, I really like Valentino for women and Armini =
for men!  You can't beat a man in an Armini suit!!!!! Droll!!! Well, =
actually I have been following these two designers for a few decades.  I =
also like Bill Blass and Ralph Lauren for menswear... so classy!  Can =
you tell I sold menswear for years?  My husband and I spend too much =
time watching Style TV.  We can watch the runway shows for hours.  We =
both love to critique the collections.  One day I am going to make it to =
that NY University Symposium with the top designers!

  Penny Ladnier
  Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
  http://www.costumegallery.com=20
  http://www.costumeclassroom.com
  http://www.onlinecostumeball.com

------=_NextPart_000_00DE_01C29EB3.3F85E7B0
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>I'll bet you they are Badgely =
Mischka!&nbsp;=20
Beadwork is their specialty and they are very popular. I imagine second =
still to=20
Vera Wang Queen of Weddings, but they are really gifted.&nbsp; They cut =
off=20
Style TV as one of my cable channels last year!&nbsp; I was so mad... =
hopefully=20
I'll get it back.&nbsp; Instead I browse "FirstView.com" which is all =
you'd ever=20
need to see about fashion.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>angela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. =
Lazear<BR>Cabbage Rose=20
Costumes <BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>Theatrical Costume Design<BR>"O! =
Swear not by=20
the moon, the inconstant moon, <BR>That monthly changes in her circled=20
orb,<BR>Lest that thy love prove likewise variable."<BR>Romeo &amp; =
Juliet, II,=20
ii - W. Shakespeare</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dpenny@costumegallery.com =
href=3D"mailto:penny@costumegallery.com">Penny=20
  Ladnier</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, December 08, 2002 =
1:16=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Favorite=20
  Designers</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Angela,</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I am so bad with names of present day&nbsp;designers.&nbsp; I =
keep seeing=20
  shows on Style TV with these two guys who are designing bridal gowns =
that are=20
  vintage inspired.&nbsp; The beadwork is outstanding!!!!</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Of present day designers, I really like Valentino for women and =
Armini=20
  for men!&nbsp; You can't beat a man in an Armini suit!!!!! =
Droll!!!&nbsp;Well,=20
  actually I have been following these two designers&nbsp;for a few=20
  decades.&nbsp; I also like Bill Blass and Ralph Lauren for menswear... =
so=20
  classy!&nbsp; Can you tell I sold menswear for years?&nbsp; My husband =
and I=20
  spend too much time watching Style TV.&nbsp; We can watch the runway =
shows for=20
  hours.&nbsp; We both love to critique the collections.&nbsp; One day I =
am=20
  going to make it to that NY University Symposium with the top =
designers!</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.onlinecostumeball.com">http://www.onlinecostumeball.co=
m</A></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
  style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px">&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 15:19:48 -0500
Status: RO



Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> Hey, Dhannti....what's the addy for your website?
> --sue


I have the green one on my site at

http://www.geocities.com/dhannti656/Assignments.html

However both gowns are on Margo's web page under Gallery.

Diana
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 15:28:16 -0500
Status: RO



Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> At 12:23 PM 12/08/2002 -0500, Dhannti wrote:
> >In a panic here. Can you or did you see that on mine on your site?  It
> >would be easy to redo if I have that on my two gowns.  I learn more and
> >more each day. If you can see that on my skirts show me please.
> >
> First off, if you did do it that way, I can't see it because your bodices
> both have skirtings that cover the pleats.  Secondly, "ugly" is my own
> opinion, not a fact.  If you did it that way, you like it, it works for
> you, and no one can tell anyway, it ain't broke, and you don't need to fix it.
> 

Margo yours is one of many opinions I trust. For those, like me, that
are just starting out and who look for honest opinions and critiques its
important to hear.  I don't hear from Janet Anrold  but I can ask you
and get a reasonably straight forward answer.  Yes I do look up to those
with experience and know how on the over all scale of things.  How else
will I learn here in No-wherevill WV.

Diana
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:40:52 -0500
Status: RO

<<<Actually, I'd love to know where one can find polished cotton :D>>>
 
        I can't for the life of me remember where I got it, but it is
home dec width and I am sure I was going to use it for a duvet cover for
my bedroom when I re decorated it several years ago.  I too don't like
poly cotton because of the heat.  Of course, it doesn't wrinkle as badly
as cotton and doesn't need ironing either.  Still, I will iron it before
I will be hot all day at an event.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 15:49:22 -0500
Status: RO

This being the gift-giving season and all that...

My friend Kate Johnson has put some of her handmade repro 18th c. 
miniatures (and some other neat handmade jewelry with Celtic and nature 
themes) online at:

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=katestreasures&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

Cheers,
Mara

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Subject: [h-cost] Cranach's Portrait of a woman 1522-better picture anyone?
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 13:51:25 -0700
Status: RO

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach61.html


Does anyone have a better picture of this than this one?   I am trying
to figure out if she has a goller/caplet on or is the collar just part
of her gown?

I've looked all over the internet for a better picture.  I thought maybe
one of you had seen it in person or had a book with it.

Sg



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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 16:30:37 -0500
Status: RO

I've always liked the term "Rubenesque", comparing us to the lovely nudes in
the paintings, none of which are particularly thin.
-Megan


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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 21:48:01 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote: > I've always liked the term
"Rubenesque", comparing us to the lovely nudes in
> the paintings, none of which are particularly thin.

I absolutely agree, and when I have a look at the actual paintings I realise my
body looks a lot like that: pear-shapes rule! *laughs*
Nice round bust, round upper arms, an actual waist, a softly rounded tummy, big
round bum and quite substantial round thighs. Hmm.. does the word 'round' and
'soft' seem to be repeated here? No wonder I love wearing costumes, they pull
and push the roundness into all sorts of lovely shapes. Cleavages rock!

I would love to be able to wear 1920s flapper and 1930s and 40s but that's
right out for the Rubenesque soft and round ones. It's a good term, it really
is.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach's Portrait of a woman 1522-better picture anyone?
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 21:54:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Yep, here you are:

http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=45604+0+none

National gallery of Art, it has details and a blooming good quality on top of
it.

Nicole

> Does anyone have a better picture of this than this one?   I am trying
> to figure out if she has a goller/caplet on or is the collar just part
> of her gown?
> 
> I've looked all over the internet for a better picture.  I thought maybe
> one of you had seen it in person or had a book with it.
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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"Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
[...]
> Yes i am in troubble, and you sertanly help me a lot!
> Are there any suppliers of it who send to Europe.
> Suppliers of paper clay?
> Because i have not seen it anywhere here in Denmark.
> But i have not looked for it. Perhaps they do have it if i ask about it.
> This would be a very nice way to use my lace. on the dolls!

The paperclay that most doll artists I know use is called "La Doll".
It's even finer textured than the usually paperclays.  I've seen people
use it with molds meant for ceramic bisque dolls.  The only thing to remember
is that your paperclay doll will come out slightly larger than a bisque doll
made from the same mold, because the paperclay doesn't shrink as much.

When I could still sculpt, I was using a combination of Premo and Liquid
Translucent Scupley (it's a liquid).  The combination was very similar in
texture and finished appearance as Cernit.  However, it's much stronger than
Cernit and can even be carefully polished on the buffing wheel when you're 
using it for jewelry pieces or miniatures that are meant to look like ceramics.

At this point, I'm instead repainting and re-rooting fashion dolls instead.
It's easier on my hands.  My mother's getting doll costumed in an 1880 gown
for christmas this year.  If I can hurry up and finish rooting the new hair.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 17:33:19 -0500
Status: RO

<<<I personally like to use the term "Sumptuous".>>>

    Another mostly lurker here-----I like the word "voluptuous" better.
Ever seen the painting of the lady, mostly in reds, called "Flaming June"?
    There was an article in ----ah, Smithsonian, I think---about the painter
Titian, and his women were definitely not string beans, but they certainly
are beautiful!
    In fact, if you really feel bad about yourself, buy a copy of an
under-the-counter men's magazine (not Playboy), and see what men are REALLY
paying good money to look at!

Grins,
Diane S. ----not as thin as I used to be either

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach's Portrait of a woman 1522-better picture anyone?
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In a message dated 12/8/2002 3:52:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
saragrace@earthlink.net writes:


> http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach61.html
> 
> 

I have a book with this portrait.  It looks to me as if the collar is part of 
the goller/caplet.  The book I am looking at is: Alexander Stepanow Cranach, 
by Parkstone Publisher.  It is painting No. 102
The original is in the National Gallery in Washington.  Maybe someone in the 
Washington area has seen the original?

A good book for cross referencing is:  The Thyssen - Bornemisza 
Colection:Early German Paintings 1350-1550, ISBN 0 8566 376 5  Publisher: 
Klett-Cotta (first published 1991 for Sotheby's Publishing by Philip Wilson 
Publishers LTD, London; my copy was published exclusively in Germany Austria 
ad German speaking Switzerland by Ernst Klett Verlag fuer Wissen und Bildung 
GmbH Stuttgart)
By the way both books are out of print.

In the Klett book the paintings very similar to the Cranach Portrait are:

No 10 Portrait of a woman aged 26, Anonymous master of the School of Lukas 
Cranach the Elder dated 1525
This lady is wearing a red dress with black trim.  The goller is lined in 
fur.  Under the goller one can see both a small white and small black 
standing collar, the black one is tied together with a black ribbon.  
Underneath a bit of the chemise is visible. The portrait on the next page 
again is very similar, really interesting collars on both the dress and the 
goller.  (same anonymous master)

Portrait No. 13  Portrait of Anna Duerer, Wife of Hieronimus Flaischer aged 
22 from an anonymous master active in Nuernberg 1527 falls into the same 
category.

Painting No. 49 Portrait of a woman 1539 by Lucas Cranach the Younger, in my 
opinion is a later version of the same style.  On this painting however there 
is no goller but a large fur lined collar on the black gown,  Very 
interesting on this portrait is the barrette (hat), the sleeves and the 
chemise!
It looks to me that this bodice is closed in the front (no lacing), maybe 
hooked together.  The breastband is however still visible.  

More like the last gown is the gown worn by Anne of Hungary and Bohemia 
(Portrait No. 68) also there is a lot of similarity in the collar of the gown 
to the gollers in the other paintings.

I wished I could post copires of all the portraits I just mentioned.  Maybe 
some of you can find the book via inter library loan.  Or maybe Drea can 
chime in here.  I know she too owns this book.

If you need more info, feel free to contact me.
Elisabeth   
 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/8/2002 3:52:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, saragrace@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach61.html
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I have a book with this portrait. &nbsp;It looks to me as if the collar is part of the goller/caplet. &nbsp;The book I am looking at is: Alexander Stepanow Cranach, by Parkstone Publisher. &nbsp;It is painting No. 102
<BR>The original is in the National Gallery in Washington. &nbsp;Maybe someone in the Washington area has seen the original?
<BR>
<BR>A good book for cross referencing is: &nbsp;The Thyssen - Bornemisza Colection:Early German Paintings 1350-1550, ISBN 0 8566 376 5 &nbsp;Publisher: Klett-Cotta (first published 1991 for Sotheby's Publishing by Philip Wilson Publishers LTD, London; my copy was published exclusively in Germany Austria ad German speaking Switzerland by Ernst Klett Verlag fuer Wissen und Bildung GmbH Stuttgart)
<BR>By the way both books are out of print.
<BR>
<BR>In the Klett book the paintings very similar to the Cranach Portrait are:
<BR>
<BR>No 10 Portrait of a woman aged 26, Anonymous master of the School of Lukas Cranach the Elder dated 1525
<BR>This lady is wearing a red dress with black trim. &nbsp;The goller is lined in fur. &nbsp;Under the goller one can see both a small white and small black standing collar, the black one is tied together with a black ribbon. &nbsp;Underneath a bit of the chemise is visible. The portrait on the next page again is very similar, really interesting collars on both the dress and the goller. &nbsp;(same anonymous master)
<BR>
<BR>Portrait No. 13 &nbsp;Portrait of Anna Duerer, Wife of Hieronimus Flaischer aged 22 from an anonymous master active in Nuernberg 1527 falls into the same category.
<BR>
<BR>Painting No. 49 Portrait of a woman 1539 by Lucas Cranach the Younger, in my opinion is a later version of the same style. &nbsp;On this painting however there is no goller but a large fur lined collar on the black gown, &nbsp;Very interesting on this portrait is the barrette (hat), the sleeves and the chemise!
<BR>It looks to me that this bodice is closed in the front (no lacing), maybe hooked together. &nbsp;The breastband is however still visible. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>More like the last gown is the gown worn by Anne of Hungary and Bohemia (Portrait No. 68) also there is a lot of similarity in the collar of the gown to the gollers in the other paintings.
<BR>
<BR>I wished I could post copires of all the portraits I just mentioned. &nbsp;Maybe some of you can find the book via inter library loan. &nbsp;Or maybe Drea can chime in here. &nbsp;I know she too owns this book.
<BR>
<BR>If you need more info, feel free to contact me.
<BR>Elisabeth &nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 10:58:00 -0800
Status: RO

Ok, I'm getting intimidated by people's project lists!

As for me, since it looks like the PhD dissertation will actually be 
finished during the first month or so of 2003, I can at least 
fantasize about what costume projects I may work on.  The top two are 
entirely "non-material".  I'd like to turn my booklet on medieval 
Welsh costume into a web page, since it's the easiest way to update 
it with new material (although I still have dreams of doing a Real 
Book at some point, not just the self-published booklet).  And I'd 
like to turn my Surviving Garments project into something more 
generally accessible and interactive -- something where people can 
search on questions like "what has been published on surviving socks 
and hose from the 14th century" or "what types of surviving garments 
are made of linen" or the like.  Making the project 
publicly-accessible will also make it easier for people to point me 
towards items or articles I'm not aware of yet.

For actual sewing projects, I want to try some experiments on the 
"patterned gathering" (i.e. "Italian smocking") method seen on some 
surviving medieval albs and work up to a reconstruction of one of 
them. I've owed my youngest brother an Elizabethan suit of clothes 
for a number of years, and I need to make good on that.  (My brothers 
are very patient about the projects I owe them -- other than the 
occasional pointed nag.)  I've got a pattern drafted for a quilted 
silk Turkish caftan (which I intend to use around the house as a 
fancy bathrobe-like-object) that needs to be translated into cloth. 
And then, when I find out what I'm going to be doing for a living in 
my post-grad-student life, I may decide to do a serious make-over in 
my everyday wardrobe.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 22:58:04 -0000
Status: RO

The dye remover is I believe designed to take out the dyes Dylon use as you
say, but they are industrial dyes too, just the industrial ones should be
applied by expecting in dyeing & hence have greater fastness ;)

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec  8 18:07:06 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:05:34 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO


>  I too don't like
> poly cotton because of the heat.  Of course, it
> doesn't wrinkle as badly
> as cotton and doesn't need ironing either.  Still, I
> will iron it before
> I will be hot all day at an event.


I've heard people complain about the heat factor of
poly/cotton before, so I hope you all don't mind if I
share my experience with poly/cotton.

I wear linen camicias mostly. I have one in cotton.
However, for outerwear I've yet to see, let alone buy,
a 100% cotton jacquard. Silk brocades are right out of
my price range. So I mostly use poly/cotton jaquards.
I must say that I've yet to wear this dress in hot
weather, but even in warm weather I do not find
poly/cotton to be any more uncomfortable to wear than
my 100% cotton velvet or velveteen, despite having
almost 8 metres in the hem circumference!

<http://realmofvenus.web1000.com/mygarb/courtgown.htm>


Bella

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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:21:19 -0500
Status: RO

        Bella, what a beautiful gown!!  

        I have a cotton velveteen tunic and it is too hot for summer wear
here in Florida.  A lot depends on where you are.  Temperatures in the
90s with humidity in the 80s can feel like a steam bath.

        I rather expect my pink polished cotton over a cotton batiste
chemise and a linen corset will be a bit too much for a Florida summer
too.  I am not sure the black silk and velvet will be wearable at any
time, but then I hate hot weather and I detest being hot.



Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 12:48:12 -0800
Status: RO


>Urgh... uhm... hmm... is it just me or are those big fat red roses a tad OTT?
>*shudder*
>
>No, seriously, I don't have a clue about this period and it struck me as an
>awfully ugly dress, therefore I would like to know, IS this historically
>correct? Is this right or more a costumey costume?

I'd go for the same colours that are in the fashion plate, using the 
Simplicity one as a guide.  And skip bright red roses and hyper-contrasty 
black lace on white.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: juice drink dyes (was Re: [h-cost] OT: British food question
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 12:36:32 -0800
Status: RO


>BTW, the colourings used in the cheaper drinks stain
>cloth quite badly. But they're not fast enough to be
>used as dye, AFAIK. (There, costume content!)

I learned most of what I know about dying from a USDepartment of 
Agriculture stain-removal pamphlet.  If it said stains from something were 
hard to remove, would stay forever, or that doing thus-and-such would set 
it, I figured I could use it as a dye.  But some things, like blackberries, 
make a nice purple stain at first, but then the red element washes out and 
all you have is faint blue-ish.  (Some things I'd rather eat than dye with.)


Kayta

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 13:53:19 -0800
Status: RO


> > Even the hierarchy here is one
> > of earned position.
> >
>
>There is zero need for any hierarchy on a mailing list.  I personally just
>ignore the whole issue and say whatever I want to whoever I want.

I agree.  I have neither degree nor published work behind me, but I have 
been doing this for decades, with an eye toward what the evidence in front 
of me tells me.  And I tend to have a memory for pictures.  So sometimes I 
am seeing things other people haven't noticed, and at other times my head 
seems to be in a dark place...  So if I think I know something, especially 
if I think I can back it up, I post.  And I ask my share of dumb questions 
too, well aware that I don't 'know it all'.

Kayta

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 12:51:21 -0800
Status: RO


> > According to my daughter, you can dye hair with KoolAid
>
>It's true.  We used to do that before all the new funky-colored
>dyes became available.  Purples and reds took the best.

If you have any grey hairs, and expect the KoolAid to wash out, it will 
stay in the grey hairs like forever.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1851 model for Simplicity pattern - skirt,got it!
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 13:02:45 -0800
Status: RO


>With the standard 18 yard measure in the hem line of a summer frock in 
>taffetta or mouseline you get these fab,rich folds of fabric that whisper 
>when moved by the wearer.

Where do you get this figure?  I've never seen it on an original.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dancing in Gowns with Trains
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 12:58:08 -0800
Status: RO

I saw a Japanese film once, where the women had trained kimonos because it 
was at court, and they did a quick little kick to get the things out of the 
way whenever they did things like get up from kneeling down.  I don't know 
whether or not to believe this as historically correct for the period 
(early 1700s, at a guess), but it was completely different than what a 
European woman would have done.  (I think it was 'Chushingura', but it's 
been a while so I don't really remember which Kurosawa film it was.)

> > >So how did women deal with trains when dancing?  Were skirt lifters used,
> > or
> > did they hold their skirt up, or did people know to avoid them,
> >
> > Avoiding them is a bit plus I think, also you learn to dance in manner that
> > swishes them out of the way most of the time.
> >
> > > or were the
> > dances written in such a way as to incorporate the trains?
> >
> > Not from any I've done :) Too many backwards steps they can be tricky...
>
>I learned an 1860's waltz & an 1890's.
>
>The '60's waltz (no train) starts with the gentleman's back to the center of
>the floor & the lady's back towards the seat.  Line of direction is 'over
>hands'.
>After three beats, the lady has her back to the center of the room & line
>of direction is 'over elbows'.
>All steps are forward or in place; nobody steps backwards.
>
>
>The 1890's waltz, when at least some ballgowns were trained, starts with
>the gentleman's back to line of direction.
>The dance starts with his taking a step backwards, two turning steps, and
>the lady then takes a step back.  The turning should be neat enough that
>her train gets out of her way.
>
>I don't know when the transition took place, and I don't believe it would be
>possible to have a partial transition, although I am only an intermediate
>vintage dancer.
>
>
>Very early in my costuming, I made a vaguely Regency gown with a two foot
>train.  I learned to dance a dos a' dos (do-si-do) fairly easily, because 
>the train
>got out of my way enough.
>
>
> > Mel
>
>Ann in CT
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 13:19:39 -0800
Status: RO


>I don't post - or post about anything substantial - because I don't want 
>to look like an idiot.

I post kind-of often, and look like an idiot, right here on this list, on a 
regular basis.

>I'm an autodidact, not degreed, not published,

Me too.

>I don't think I'm being overly sensitive here when I worry about 
>mentioning that I'm trying out different shift patterns in good cotton 
>cloth rather than linen.  Or that my last set of clothes was actually a 
>mostly-synthetic wool blend that you wouldn't have known from real wool 
>twill from an arm's length away.  The points aren't linen tape or silk 
>ribbon - it was some grosgrain ribbon off the shelf at the fabric store 
>that worked, and that I could actually afford to make into two dozen 
>sleeve points.  My present set of stays are 1/4" steel bones (and have 
>been since I made my first set in 1981) rather than reed because for a fat 
>girl, it works, and they give predictable results.
>
>My impression is at times, that folks (with notable exceptions) deal a 
>little harshly with people who take 'shortcuts' (i.e., 1/4" steels in a 
>1570s pair of bodies, for instance) that were perfectly acceptable ten 
>years ago.  Having done SCA costuming since the middle 1970s, the amount 
>of good research material around now absolutely astounds me - things have 
>come *so* far!  I'm glad to see the bar being raised, but sorry that it 
>excludes so many honest attempts.  The perception seems that anyone who 
>takes a whack at doing a period piece "should have known better" about the 
>X, Y, or Z detail that they didn't get just right.  There doesn't seem to 
>be any appreciation for a good try.

I keep my first SCA costume (start with polyester poplin and go downhill 
from there), from way back in the early 70s, both to keep me humble and to 
show people who get an over-inflated idea of my skill at costuming (these 
folks need to be shaken back to a reality where they realize that they can 
get good too.)

>I don't know how far off my perception is, or if it's spot on.  This list 
>does, like any, have it's share of know-it-alls, no matter what the 
>subject or tangent.  I've learned to either ignore or laugh at them (I 
>find at least one of them consistently entertaining, although some of her 
>information is good, but I suspect it's really more of a personality issue 
>I have with her, and no, she doesn't know me from anywhere, but she posts 
>a great deal).  I'd like to jump in some times and offer my own 
>experience, but just -- hesitate because I don't want to look like an 
>idiot if I get it wrong, and get jumped on by people with better access to 
>information, more education, and moreover *more time* to spend at this 
>incredibly consuming, wonderful hobby of ours.
>
>I suppose, if someone who has a few pretty good suits of clothes behind 
>her feels uncomfortable offering advice, where would this leave a novice?

I guess some Novices are more used to jumping in with questions than some 
other more experienced folks.  Again, just a matter of personality, and not 
a fault.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coifs and me
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 14:44:58 -0800
Status: RO


>I thought I'd combine a couple of recent threads by trying out a coif.
>Never again; I nearly had a heart attack when I looked in the mirror,
>so Heaven know's what it would do to an innocent bystander.
>Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
>ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them, or
>indeed others?

Anything that ties under the 'second chin' rather than the first.  I don't 
usually have any problem with looking like I weigh as much as I do, but I 
always tie anything that goes under my chin at that place where the first 
chin used to be (before the advent of the second one).  I finished my new 
ACW-period day cap last night, and had to carefully move the ties so they 
would both hold the cap on and tie where I wanted them to.


Kayta

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 14:57:28 -0800
Status: RO


>I am very glad that you warned me about that word.
>Silly me, i surely didnt want to be rude, and it was very careless of me.
>Now i used your word Junoeque in stead. Thanks for this Stevie, i am glad
>you told me.

In my family, the word is 'Zaftig'.


Kayta

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 14:26:53 -0800
Status: RO


>3.  What about hairstyles and jewellery ?  I've got long straight hair, and
>couldn't go in for a great bush of little curls:  could I get away with
>putting it up in a bun like the Greek ladies.  I know I won't need a veil,
>(thank goodness), but should I have some other sort of head-dress ?  Were
>necklaces very common ?  I do have some rings, brooches and a bracelet that
>are copies of finds, would they be enough ?

Look in sculpture sources, for statues of women from that time.  And look 
in jewelry books for the stuff itself.  Places like the Metropolitan Museum 
of Art, in New York City, sometimes offer repros of this stuff, of varying 
accuracy and usually expensive.

There's a re-enactment group in the UK, which does Roman soldiers.  I don't 
know what period they do, but I bet their women (if any) would have sources.


Kayta

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 15:17:46 -0800
Status: RO


> > I just got back from a trip to the Bay Area, and I saw the most peculiar
> > thing.  On University Avenue in Berkeley, there are a number of stores
>that
> > sell saris, shalwar kameeez, etc.  One of them had a sign in the window
> > that said, "Japanese Sari and Custom Tailoring".  What the heck?  Can
> > anyone tell me what a "japanese sari could possibly be? I'm baffled.
>
>Not sure but I do know when I went saree shopping a lot of fabrics were
>woven in Japan. That could possibly be something to do with it?
>
>Particularly fine silk and the prints were very ... blossomy I suppose,
>little round petals and quite different to the patterns I've got in my
>collection of second hand ones.

Many of the filmy polyester saris are from Japan.

Kayta

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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:11:36 +0000
Status: RO

And who likes spiky bits in their feet anyway? 

Poor giraffe. ;)

Arlys

On Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:51:09 +0000 Jean Waddie
<anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes:
> No, hedgehogs can't carry giraffes.  Giraffes can't get their feet 
> that 
> close together.
> 
> 
> Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote
> >Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or perhaps
> >another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery 
> hoops
> >ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another 
> alternative?
> >Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding hand 
> owing
> >to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.
> >
> >Thank you for your help.
> >
> >Arlys in Oregon
> >
> >
> >________________________________________________________________
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> -- 
> Jean Waddie
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> If you have any grey hairs, and expect the KoolAid to wash out, it will
> stay in the grey hairs like forever.
>
>
> Kayta


So I could use a dark purple or red KoolAid, and have a head full of
highlights---hmmm....

Dianne

who has much grey hair and hates it

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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 19:03:11 -0500
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On Sunday 08 December 2002 04:19 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
[text cut here]

> >I'm an autodidact, not degreed, not published,
>
> Me too.

I also.  

--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 16:06:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> So I could use a dark purple or red KoolAid, and have a head full of
> highlights---hmmm....

The purple doesn't take nearly as well as the dark red (gah, I can't
remember what the current flavor name is, but there's one variety that
will give burgundy highlights).  Or you could just buy a vegetable-based
dye like Special Effects or Punky Colors.  If you don't bleach your hair
first, you'll only get highlights (I use a shade of SFx called "blood red").
_Any_ of these dyes will bleed and/or rub off, so be careful.  I have a 
number of shirts with red/burgundy collar stains.

If you going to use KoolAid, buy the sugarfree variety and make a thick
paste.  Mix that with a _small_ amount of conditioner and apply it to your
hair.  Cover it with a plastic cap and use a blowdryer to heat it up.
Leave for at least an hour.  The commerical dyes should be applied to damp
hair and covered.  Applying heat is optional and will result in much more
brilliant colors.  

[If I hadn't just wrecked my back, I'd be redying my hair this weekend]

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:58:17 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Lalah T Tillinghast <catpurson@juno.com> wrote: >
        Bella, what a beautiful gown!! 

Thank you. :)
 
 
>         I have a cotton velveteen tunic and it is
> too hot for summer wear
> here in Florida.  A lot depends on where you are. 
> Temperatures in the
> 90s with humidity in the 80s can feel like a steam
> bath.

I'm in the southern "bite" of Australia. We get
Mediterranean weather - very long, hot, summers with
low-medium humidity, and short cool winters with lots
of rain. Temps in summer average in the mid-high 30s
celsius (that's 95-102 degrees farenheit) and do get
over the 40 degree mark often. We take our break in
summer for about a month! :) I guess the humidity is
more a factor in comfort than heat.

> 
>         I rather expect my pink polished cotton over
> a cotton batiste
> chemise and a linen corset will be a bit too much
> for a Florida summer
> too.  I am not sure the black silk and velvet will
> be wearable at any
> time, but then I hate hot weather and I detest being
> hot.

Me too. :)


Bella
 

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- Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:06:43 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
wrote: > On Sunday 08 December 2002 04:19 pm, Carolyn
Kayta
> Barrows wrote:
> [text cut here]
> 
> > >I'm an autodidact, not degreed, not published,
> >
> > Me too.
> 
> I also.  

<struggles not to add a "me too"> The only place I'm
published is my self-publishing online, someone's
class notes for Ithra, and in the upcoming edition of
our (SCA) kingdom's arts and sciences newsletter. Oh,
and one sonnet on the bardic guild website. :)


Bella...who had to look up "autodidact" 'cause she'd
never heard it before but had a feeling it had
something to do with being self-taught :)


Bella 

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 17:25:19 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:52 AM 12/7/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Hello the list, from cold, foggy Montana!
><soapbox on>
>I agree...with Fran's comment, and with the person whom she's quoting.
>However, I don't think that those who are more into authenticity should
>have to apologize, either.  I really get tired of being referred to as a
>"cosack" or "nazi" or any other disparaging term that somehow seems
>designed to make me feel like I'm some sort of stereotypical
>fun-stealer.

Me, too!
I want to know the 'authentic' way to do things so I can, if I choose to, 
or so that I can figure out an appropriate way to 'fudge' it and still get 
the right look, if I want to do that.  But how else can you figure out the 
latter, if you don't know the former?

>Obligatory Costume Content: Today, I'm off to JoAnn's with my discount
>coupon, to see if they've got any wool (a girl can always hope, huh?),
>and to a local fiber-arts store to buy my tablet-weaving supplies for my
>gothic fitted gown (tm).  I'm going to buy some different perle cottons
>to learn on, and some lovely 50/2 silk thread for the actual gown.
>Maybe lots and lots of the silk thread--it's undyed/unbleached, and a
>perfect weight to use for embroidery.  And I'm learning from friends
>about natural dyes....<g>
>--Sue

Good luck!
My local JoAnn's actually DID have some wool this year, much to my surprise!

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 18:37:43 -0500
Status: RO

At 02:27 AM 12/8/2002 +0000, Kate wrote:
>I've only been a member on this list for a few months, and I don't post 
>very much. I have recently been  thinking a lot about unsubscribing. Why? 
>Because it annoys me (and it's 2am and I'm fortified by a certain amount 
>of wine and I figure I've got nothing to lose here) that, no matter what 
>you post about, there are always people who seem to take pleasure in 
>disagreeing with you, just for the hell of it. But, to my mind, 
>actually,  NOBODY really knows what it was like in the time periods this 
>list covers, NOBODY was there and the documented evidence is scarce to say 
>the least, and usually restricted to certain levels of society. Frankly, 
>it p***es me off that people think they have all the answers...

Well, I'm not sure that it's possible to know all the answers, but, for 
what it's worth, when I ask the list a question, I more or less expect to 
get several different answers, each of which I read and take on its own 
merits; I then decide which one I agree with and base my actions (how to 
sew something) on that.  This list seems very civil to me, overall.  There 
are a few people who get under my skin, but I've learned to mentally (or 
literally) filter those people out to keep myself from getting bent out of 
shape over a tempest in a teapot.  If someone disagrees with me AND can 
back up their statements with evidence, I'd like to know because maybe I've 
got it wrong; if they're just disagreeing to be disagreeable, I can just 
blow them off (as someone else said, that's what the 'delete' key is for).

I think that one has to have a relatively thick skin when participating in 
listservs or online discussions, generally speaking.  One shouldn't take 
these things personally.

(snip)
>And for the record, I went to a Ren Faire once in California and, even 
>though I wasn't into costume in those days, was hugely insulted by the 
>interpretation of England. To my mind, it was Renaissance Disney.
>
>Kate

You'll get no argument from me!  The Maryland RenFaire is basically a 
fantasy/crafts fair crossed with the circus; it has little or no basis in 
reality any more, and that's why I don't go as a reenactor; our group used 
to go on Scottish weekend, but we found that the tourists were treating us 
like paid entertainers and didn't care about Scottish history or any of the 
other stuff we usually talk about.  It's NOT history, and if I went 
expecting to be educated, I'd be sorely disappointed.  OTOH, I might go 
with friends, in costume, just to have fun.  But I wouldn't be going as a 
reenactor, I'd be going as a tourist, and my attitude and expectations 
would be different.

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 18:42:06 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:44 PM 12/7/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I bought an ikat silk sari at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival last 
>summer and would like to make a Regency/Federal period ball gown by 
>June.  (We'll see if it gets done.)

Oh, Ann, I'm envious :)  Did you see the pink silk ikat that Sally Queen 
bought at the festival?  It'd make a lovely pet en l'air!

>But first, I must finish a princess outfit for my granddaughter for 
>Christmas.  It is Simplicity pattern 5909.  This is a Renaissance-inspired 
>look.  As I'm using some ivory polyester shantung I had on hand, the skirt 
>will not be as full as the pattern (this is just for dress up 
>anyway!)  The sleeves will be point d'esprit, and the vest purple velvet 
>with rose gimp and silver lace trim.  Mom also requested a "princess hat," 
>which I guess is a hennin, which will also be the velvet.

It sounds charming :)  I used to wear a lot of "princess" costumes when I 
was a little girl.  I think it was the illustrations in my books of fairy 
tales that got me interested in costumes, to tell the truth!

>I have been trying to use fabrics I have on hand for current 
>projects.  One of the spencers is a green wool I had planned for a skirt 
>several years ago, and gold trims that I already had.  For the other 
>spencer, I got a piece of camel-colored wool out of the cedar chest that 
>was going to be a blazer about 20 years ago.  I dyed it with Rit wine dye 
>and it came out a nice rust color.  I'm lining it with white silk twill.

Please post pictures!  They sound lovely...

>I admit, the sari was a new, and rather expensive, purchase.  But my 
>husband had just bought himself a banjo for almost the same price, so I 
>HAD to do something!

Why should the boys get all the toys, anyway?  :D

>That only takes me through June.  I will need a new 1814 gown next summer, 
>so have to start thinking about that.  And I bought some brown wool and 
>velvet to make my husband a new tailcoat, so need to work that in somewhere.

Sounds yummy!

-- Mara

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Subject: [h-cost] My booklet is out! -- (i.e., this year's projects, was next
 year's projects)
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 19:19:37 -0500
Status: RO

Since I mentioned this in another post...  Pardon me, folks, for blowing my 
own horn just a little!

Well, folks, my costume booklet is out!  It's called "Whatever Shall I 
Wear?: A Guide to Assembling a Woman's Basic 18th Century Wardrobe".  The 
illustrations (which really make the book) are by Kate (Cathy) Johnson, of 
Graphics/Fine Arts Press; she's put out several other books for 18th c. F&I 
or RevWar period reenactors.  I'm very lucky indeed that she liked this 
project enough to take it on!

What this booklet is intended to do: it's supposed to replace the badly 
outdated "Distaff Sketchbook" as a guide for beginners just getting into 
18th century reenacting and looking to put together a basic, commoners' 
(i.e., not fancy dress) wardrobe, suitable for an ordinary camp follower or 
housewife.  The book has descriptions of the various articles of dress, 
materials used, and how they were worn, and the back of the book has a very 
extensive reading, sutlers and suppliers lists.  I wrote it to be the 
booklet I wish someone had handed me when I started doing 18th century 
reenacting.

What it is not: it is not primary research, in the sense that Norah Waugh's 
_Cut of Women's Clothes_ etc. are primary research.  There are a lot of 
really good, detailed costume books by Waugh, Baumgarten, Arnold, etc. out 
there, but in my experience, your average beginner never even sees these; 
she get the Sketchbook handed to her by the guy (yes, it's usually a guy, 
and frequently one who doesn't know much about 18th c. women's clothing) 
responsible for their group's costume standards and info, and then the 
beginner gets frustrated because she does't know where to go from 
there.  If she happens to pick up Waugh, or Arnold, she gets overwhelmed 
and passes them by for something more immediately accessible.

We also tried to price it affordably so that a beginner who isn't sure 
whether they really want to invest in this (let's face it, rather 
expensive) hobby will feel comfortable buying it.  A beginner isn't going 
to shell out, oh, $70 for Waugh or sometimes even $30 for some of the more 
affordable books (like Beth Gilgun's _Tidings_, which is very good) until 
she decides if this is something she really wants to do.

The book can be bought from Graphics/Fine Arts Press.  Kate is trying to 
get her web guy to update the site -- contrary to what the site says at the 
moment, the book has arrived (it got to her earlier this week) and she is 
mailing copies out.

http://www.epsi.net/graphic/books.html

Cheers,
Mara

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 18:43:03 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:05 PM 12/7/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Those fabulous beaded/embroidered/decorated Art Deco Dresses look like 
>expensive bundles of neglected laundry on (pear shaped) me.
>
>Theresa Eacker

Me, too!
My (skinny) sister, on the other hand, has the perfect figure for them 
(sigh)...

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 18:57:57 -0500
Status: RO

Well, I'm not exactly a lurker either, but will answer anyway.

Hm, projects...
Well, I need to make two new 18th c. jackets (I found some tartan fabric 
that I like); I'd like to make myself a linsey-woolsey petticoat...  I'd 
also like to get that Susannah Fourment outfit done one of these years!  I 
did make the hat this fall, so one step at a time, eh?  I'm supposed to 
help a friend put together a costume for RenFaire, too, but we're having 
problems coordinating our calendars.

I have started a pair of Scottish trews for my hubby, and just finished 
(sort-of, need to do some topstitching) a new jacket for him.

I also have a request from a friend to make an 18th c. suit of clothes 
(breeches, waistcoat, coat) out of some mouse-colored wool, with a 
flame-orange wool for the waistcoat.  That's been on the long-term round to 
it list for a while, though.

I'd like to make a Regency-period gown in some lovely lightweight 
cotton/linen blend fabric I have in the stash, along with an over-dress in 
some cotton ikat-type fabric I found at G Street that looks like it'd work 
for the period.  That's not a must-do, though, it's a round-to-it.

Other than that, I have a bunch of routine sewing to do (men's shirts, that 
kind of thing).  I'm a bit burned out on sewing at the moment, and have 
been taking a break by doing other things like the family genealogy 
project.  Maybe I'll be back in the mood by the new year!
172 pages scanned, 88 to go...

Oh, and to mention THIS year's projects, my booklet is out!  But more on 
that in another post ... :D

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 20:05:12 -0500
Status: RO

On Sunday 08 December 2002 06:57 pm, Kevin + Mara wrote:

>
> Oh, and to mention THIS year's projects, my booklet is out!  But more on
> that in another post ... :D

Yes, I checked out the URL you included.  Congratulations!

Sounds neat.  I must get myself a copy after the first-of-the-year expenses 
are taken care of....


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Polished cotton, was how many of us are there?
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 20:49:44 -0500
Status: RO

Hm, maybe that's the problem, I haven't looked in the home dec 
section.  Thanks!

-- Mara

At 03:40 PM 12/8/2002 -0500, you wrote:
><<<Actually, I'd love to know where one can find polished cotton :D>>>
>
>         I can't for the life of me remember where I got it, but it is
>home dec width and I am sure I was going to use it for a duvet cover for
>my bedroom when I re decorated it several years ago.  I too don't like
>poly cotton because of the heat.  Of course, it doesn't wrinkle as badly
>as cotton and doesn't need ironing either.  Still, I will iron it before
>I will be hot all day at an event.
>
>Lalah


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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 02:05:20 -0000
Status: RO

On 8 Dec 2002 at 14:26, Carolyn Kayta Barrows 
wrote:

> There's a re-enactment group in the UK, which does Roman soldiers.  I
> don't know what period they do, but I bet their women (if any) would
> have sources.

Several re-enactment groups, I think.  The Ermine 
Street Guard is the first name that comes to mind, 
but on a quick check of their web-site, they seem to 
be purely army. I can't remember names of the 
others off-hand, but possibly others can?




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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 02:05:20 -0000
Status: RO

On 8 Dec 2002 at 11:59, Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:

> <<<!) I had no idea to 
> what extent poly-cotton could or could not reproduce 
> linen. >>>
> 
>         Ok,  from someone who would love to be totally authentic but
> finances get in the way.  I have owned some really good handkerchief
> linen in my past and quite honestly, cotton batiste is a decent
> substitute.  Poly cotton batiste will look just as good, but it sure
> won't feel it.  Linen is wonderful next to the skin.  It is cool and
> it breathes and it wicks the sweat away.  Cotton is fairly cool and it
> breathes and it holds the dampness like a sponge.  Poly cotton is warm
> when you put it on, breathes little and will be sticky and
> uncomfortable in short order in hot weather.  From the viewpoint of an
> observer they will all pass the ten foot test, but from the viewpoint
> of the wearer they are very, very different.

Thanks! Filing that one....



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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 02:10:29 -0000
Status: RO

On 8 Dec 2002 at 10:15, Kevin + Mara wrote:

> Actually, I'd love to know where one can find polished cotton :D
> 
> I was looking for some for a 19th c. project, and we finally found
> some, but most of what I've seen for sale is a poly blend, which is
> just TOO hot...

I'm not sure if this is the stuff you're talking about, 
but I got some cotton with one side looking sort of 
shiny from a curtain shop. "Polished" isn't a word 
they used but it would be descriptive.





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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 21:08:07 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:03 PM 12/8/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>On Sunday 08 December 2002 04:19 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>[text cut here]
>
> > >I'm an autodidact, not degreed, not published,
> >
> > Me too.
>
>I also.

I just had to give a wry laugh, because I just sent a note to the list 
about the publishing of my first book (er, booklet; how big does something 
have to be to be a book?  This is 54 pages...)  So I'm going to be a little 
defensive here.

I do NOT think that just because I am lucky enough to get this thing 
published, I am any kind of expert.  I hope I made it clear in my earlier 
email that any of you who are already well-versed in 18th c. costume would 
know just about everything I'm saying in my book (and probably could have 
written it as well as, or better than, I).  The reason I wrote it is 
because the members of an 18th c. list were going on about a year or two 
ago about how bad the Distaff Sketchbook was, and wasn't it a shame that 
nothing better had been done in the way of an introductory booklet, and 
when I said, "well, why don't one of you folks just _write_ something", 
nobody could be bothered.  So I did it.  And, yes, it's a lot of work, but 
it's also something just about any of you could do, if you've written a 
college-level (or high school-level, depending on the quality of your HS 
teachers) history paper.

Ok, defensive mode over :)

The wonderful costumers on this list help inspire me and keep me going when 
I burn out; you help me solve my problems with collective brainstorming 
(which is what I think some folks mistake for bickering).  I burn out on 
email, too, but I've been subscribed to this list for a LONG time (I can't 
remember how long) under various email accounts, and have learned so much 
here that I just keep coming back.

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 19:17:46 -0700
Status: RO

No luck at the JoAnn's....*sigh*....The selection this year was very
small, and most of *that* was a couple of fairly-ugly weaves (for coats
or outerwear?), and some pretty dreary navy-pinstripes for business
suits of some such.  Guess the knotheads figured nobody around here uses
wool for anything else (duh! We have several months of winter!
sheesh.....) Of course, the number of bolts of polar fleece beggar
description....they're piled and over piled in one whole corner of the
store.  *grump*
Although I really didn't have the money, anyways, since I'd just spent a
significant wad at the fiber store, buying some lovely threads for
tablet-weaving, and for dyeing experiments.
I've now got some perle cottons in different thicknesses and pretty
colors, and some 50/2 silk (for the tablet weaving), and some droolsome
yarn that's 50/50 silk and wool.
I ended up using my coupon on a holiday present for a friend....
--sue

Kevin + Mara wrote:
> 
> At 10:52 AM 12/7/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> >Obligatory Costume Content: Today, I'm off to JoAnn's with my discount
> >coupon, to see if they've got any wool (a girl can always hope, huh?),
> >and to a local fiber-arts store to buy my tablet-weaving supplies for my
> >gothic fitted gown (tm).  I'm going to buy some different perle cottons
> >to learn on, and some lovely 50/2 silk thread for the actual gown.
> >Maybe lots and lots of the silk thread--it's undyed/unbleached, and a
> >perfect weight to use for embroidery.  And I'm learning from friends
> >about natural dyes....<g>
> >--Sue
> 
> Good luck!
> My local JoAnn's actually DID have some wool this year, much to my surprise!
> 
> -- Mara
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 19:30:53 -0700
Status: RO

Similar to "chintz?"
I made a mid-17th c. summer dress from chintz one time--it was an
unpatterned, crisp, lightweight cotton fabric with a definite..."shine"
on one side.
I found the fabric in the home-dec section of our JoAnn's.  This was
several years ago, however, and they no longer sell it, although I don't
recall checking their "special orders" book.
Mara, have you checked some of the fabric-selling websites that
specialize more in home-dec fabrics than apparel fabrics? They might
have something....
--sue

Jane Williams wrote:
> 
> On 8 Dec 2002 at 10:15, Kevin + Mara wrote:
> 
> > Actually, I'd love to know where one can find polished cotton :D
> >
> > I was looking for some for a 19th c. project, and we finally found
> > some, but most of what I've seen for sale is a poly blend, which is
> > just TOO hot...
> 
> I'm not sure if this is the stuff you're talking about,
> but I got some cotton with one side looking sort of
> shiny from a curtain shop. "Polished" isn't a word
> they used but it would be descriptive.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Websites with Victorian and Edwardian jewelry
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 18:38:44 -0800
Status: RO

For the past three weeks, I’ve been searching websites that sell
antique and/or reproduction Victorian and Edwardian jewelry.  This is
related to Christmas; I’m having trouble finding anything really
suitable for my purposes.  I’d actually like to find some additional
sites, perhaps for the early 19th century or other eras altogether;
recommendations welcome.  Anyway, here are some of the sites I’ve been
looking at.

Classic Jewelry
http://www.classic-jewelry.de/
Reproductions of Victorian garnet jewelry.

Victorian Jet Works
http://www.whitbyjet.co.uk/catalogue/victorian/index.html
Reproductions of Victorian jet jewelry.

Heritage Jewelry
http://www.heritagejewellery.co.uk
Antique jewelry.

Fay Cullen
http://www.faycullen.com
Antique and reproduction jewelry.

Jane Liunas
http://www.jansjewells.com/
Mostly reproductions of Victorian and Art Deco jewelry; some
originals.

Arnould Jewelers
http://www.arnould1900.com/
Art Nouveau style jewelry.

Benitez Jewelers
http://www.benitezjewelers.com
Art Nouveau inspired jewelry.

Etruscan Jewelry
http://www.il-girasole.com/jewlcatalog.htm
Reproductions of Etruscan jewelry; they might appeal to those who like
Etruscan Revival..

Luna Nuova
http://www.lunanuova.com/
Reproductions of Etruscan jewelry; they might appeal to those who like
Etruscan Revival..

L. Maris
http://www.addgr.com/jewel/maris/index.html
Classical Greek style jewelry; it might appeal to those who like
Etruscan Revival.
--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 19:18:05 -0800
Status: RO

So many original garments from the 1800s are lined with the same tan glazed 
cotton.  Where does one get this stuff nowadays?  Alternatively, can the 
glazing process be duplicated at home?  Does the glazed-ness survive the 
washing machine?

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 19:38:11 -0800
Status: RO


>I wear linen camicias mostly. I have one in cotton.
>However, for outerwear I've yet to see, let alone buy,
>a 100% cotton jacquard.

I find these 'all the time' in the drapery flat-fold section.  My corset is 
made of cotton damask/jacquard.  (I usually shop Hancock Fabric Warehouse, 
and avoid Jo-Anne's.)


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 15:00:56 +1100 (EST)
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 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 
> >I wear linen camicias mostly. I have one in cotton.
> >However, for outerwear I've yet to see, let alone
> buy,
> >a 100% cotton jacquard.
> 
> I find these 'all the time' in the drapery flat-fold
> section.  My corset is 
> made of cotton damask/jacquard.  (I usually shop
> Hancock Fabric Warehouse, 
> and avoid Jo-Anne's.)

I'm in Australia and none of the larger chain fabric
retailers has 100% cotton jacquard. It's likely I'd
find some in the specialist home decorater stores.
However, at an average of 10 metres per dress, it's
not likely that I would use it for anything larger
than a corset because of the much higher cost involved
in purchasing it, going by what I've been told of its
cost over there in the US.


Bella

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re:

From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 6:10 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail


> I cut fabric with pinkers and sometimes it still frays, particularly over
> time. I use fray check in theater, but obviously that did not exist back
> then.  What kept the pinked edges neat?  Better fabrics? A certain weave?
> Something I'm missing?

Wax was the period equivalent to fray check.  In Janet Arnold's Queen
Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, pg 182 there is a photo of  "black velvet
pane in plunderhose worn by Nils Sture.  The cut edges of the velvet are
waxed to prevent fraying and are held down with catch stitch, c. 1567.
Uppsala Cathedral"

I have used wax with reasonable success in keeping fingerwoven laces from
unraveling.  Best to iron seams open before applying the wax though.
Obvious warning, but I once learned the hard way that plastic silk screen
block out paper melts when run through the photocopier so I thought I would
mention it.

Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 20:36:41 -0800
Status: RO

Re:
From: "Bella" <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)


>
> I'm in Australia and none of the larger chain fabric
> retailers has 100% cotton jacquard. It's likely I'd
> find some in the specialist home decorater stores.
> However, at an average of 10 metres per dress, it's
> not likely that I would use it for anything larger
> than a corset because of the much higher cost involved
> in purchasing it, going by what I've been told of its
> cost over there in the US.

Bella,

When I lived in Brisbane Spotlight had a number of white100% cotton
jacquards in their upholstry section, some with 15th century motifs and not
that pricey when they went on sale.  A friend dyed the fabric blue very
successfully.  It might pay to have a look and see if they still carry the
line.

Cheers!

Lisa


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 23:44:25 -0500
Status: RO

Kayta,

I am always the first person to ask questions in what ever kind of learning
environment I am in.  When in college I always asked to present my
projects/presentations first.  I wanted to get it over with because if I sat
there, I would get nervous and not listen to what everyone else's
presentation.  I wanted to enjoy everyone else's presentations.  When I was
in classes, I would ask questions as I thought of them.  If I didn't, I
would forget them.  I never had an instructor complain.  Usually my
questions are related to that I didn't understand something.

Some physicians really don't like for you to do this, but what the hell, it
is my money I am spending.  If I don't understand what a word means, I will
ask in a heartbeat.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: [h-cost] seeking website address for turned spindle
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 20:50:49 -0800
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0397_01C29EFB.7D2127E0
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Hello!

Sometime ago I can across an internet site dealing with a spindle from =
the renaissance time period I believe, that was turned and did not =
require a whorl.  It contained, perhaps and Italian painting of a noble =
woman using the spindle in the middle of a crowd.  I can't seem to find =
it anywhere now.  Can anyone direct me towards the site?

Thanks,


Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com

------=_NextPart_000_0397_01C29EFB.7D2127E0
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	charset="Windows-1252"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sometime ago I can across an internet =
site dealing=20
with a spindle from the renaissance time period I believe, that was =
turned and=20
did not require a whorl.&nbsp; It contained, perhaps and Italian =
painting of a=20
noble woman using the spindle in the middle of a crowd.&nbsp; I can't =
seem to=20
find it anywhere now.&nbsp; Can anyone direct me towards the =
site?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lisa Sinervo<BR>Threadneedle St. =
Clothiers<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.ThreadneedleSt.com">www.ThreadneedleSt.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0397_01C29EFB.7D2127E0--


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Subject: [h-cost] paned sleeves
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 20:48:54 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Please send me a copy too of the notes you took on the
17c paned sleeves.  I'm going to ask Cassandra Greer
to send me a copy of the Munich catalog as soon as I
pay off the furnace repairs next week and then I want
to start a copy of the woman's paned doublet.  I
figure all those panes will be good stuck inside
winter work so am looking for all the info on paning I
can get.
                              Cassandra

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 20:52:32 -0800
Status: RO

I have plans for the new year.

First I have to make my sister a graduation dress.  It is going to be the 
alter years Irish dress in turquoise raw silk over a bright yellow leine 
with lots of gold and purple trim and little turquoise mirror pieces.  I 
like to think of it as renn faire weird.  Next I have to make my daughter a 
white tutu with gold trim, which is  mostly done except for the bodice.

Once I get those out of the way, I have to make myself  an Elizabethan 
court outfit.  I am planning on using Margo's patterns.  I have to have it 
done by St Patrick's day so I need to get busy.  I want to experiment with 
doing machine embroidery and then embellishing with stones and pearls on 
top of the embroidery.  I have not figured it out beyond the under 
garments, but I am planning on using what I have.  I only know that I want 
a partlet and it is going to have a french hood.

I also think that I need a cape since it snowed last year at the Angel's 
Camp faire.  I have some heavy weight linen that I want to dye a dark green 
unless the people on this group say that it can't  be that color.  I bow to 
your experience.   It seems to me, that the best arrangement would be to 
make something that is closed all the way around and only opens at the 
top.  Is that impossibly not period?

I would also like to make my son a Japanese outfit like the one in the 
picture that someone here pointed me to.  It was very cool.

For now, that is enough for me.  I still have unfinished tutus lurking in 
the background...

I have pretty much limited myself to linen for my costumes.  I have been 
lucky to find it for reasonable prices (less than five dollars a 
yard).  Since I have been blessed with an excess of waist and a wild foray 
into the change of life to put it euphemistically, I have a very low 
tolerance for heat.  In full Elizabethan I can only tolerate to wear 
linen.  At casa de fruita (renn faire disney), it got up to 105 in some of 
the buildings.  I was comfortable in my linen.  You can recognize me in 
regular clothes.  I am the one wearing a t-shirt and sandals when everyone 
else has a sweater and coat.

maryann


At 11:13 PM 12/7/2002 -0500, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>I have a couple of projects that I have been too busy to get to for at least
>12 months now:
>
>A bliaut (in rust colored wool crepe) with a gold kirtle
>
>A 1840's ball gown, in pale blue satin with a bertha of ivory-colored Alencon
>lace (machine made but still quite nice).
>
>At the rate I'm going at work, though, I wouldn't bet on my chances of 
>getting
>either done in 2003....
>
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
>"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
>  --Flannery O'Connor
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 21:00:08 -0800
Status: RO

there is fabric on e-bay that says it is 1750s.  Is this even possible?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=927744232&category=2222

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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 00:10:59 -0500
Status: RO

Just because you are not degreed does not me that you are not smart and have
something to contribute.  My father and my husband's father had to quit
school in second grade.  They taught themselves everything they knew for
their professionals.  I consider both of them very intelligent.

I learned how to research and document from doing genealogy.  No degree to
my name are that time. I combed through so many libraries and courthouses
archives.  And if you are nice enough to the powers-to-be, they will grant
you special favors... like getting into rare archives.

When I go to Costume Society meetings I feel like I can hold my own, and 90%
of them have upper degrees.  I started in CSA when in college and went to my
first national symposium.  That was when I met Valerie Steele and we
chit-chatted for 45 minutes because we were both bored of the presentation
at the time.  One thing I have learned is just because someone holds a high
position in a job/club or has a number of degrees does not make them better
than you.  I just look at them all like they are just people and treat them
the way I want to be treated.  The same goes when we attend these fancy
balls.  Heck, my 11 y.o. daughter was talking to these high society people
about the elegant ladies room.   She worked the room with this discussion
and even talked with the local news people about it.... it was a very nice
lounge.

My point is education comes in many ways, some formal, some not.  But if you
have the desire is there, you will learn.  Another thing to remember is that
a lot of costumers are computer techs and do costuming on the side.  Lastly,
only 10% of the people in the U.S. have a college degree... a good many of
them do not even work in the field of their major.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 21:46:03 -0800
Status: RO


> > >I wear linen camicias mostly. I have one in cotton.
> > >However, for outerwear I've yet to see, let alone
> > buy,
> > >a 100% cotton jacquard.
> >
> > I find these 'all the time' in the drapery flat-fold
> > section.  My corset is
> > made of cotton damask/jacquard.  (I usually shop
> > Hancock Fabric Warehouse,
> > and avoid Jo-Anne's.)
>
>I'm in Australia

Innilguard?

>and none of the larger chain fabric
>retailers has 100% cotton jacquard. It's likely I'd
>find some in the specialist home decorater stores.
>However, at an average of 10 metres per dress, it's
>not likely that I would use it for anything larger
>than a corset because of the much higher cost involved
>in purchasing it, going by what I've been told of its
>cost over there in the US.

I'm finding it at maybe $3-$4/yd, American, and usually in 1-4 yard 
remnants.  If I looked I could find enough to do a whole dress, as 
sometimes it comes in sufficiently long single pieces or in enough smaller 
ones.  But even smaller pieces can do for sleeves, corsets, or doublets, 
which is what I usually do with them.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 19:00:25 +1300
Status: RO

> I've generally found that Dylon dye-stripper won't take out much except
> Dylon dye.  It works to strip and re-dye something you home-dyed in the
> first place, but it doesn't usually work on something you bought
> coloured.  I suppose it's probably not vicious enough to take out the
> kind of evil industrial chemicals they can use to dye in the
> manufacturing process.

But I've had it succesfully take out all the dye from store bought silk. It
might also as I said before require a few extra sessions if the dye is
particularly set.

The only reason I bought my 10m of screaming fuschia silk chiffon was the
hope that the dylon pre dye would remove the colour and it did. I now have
10 yards of silvery white silk chiffon. Two pots were needed as I bought two
5m lots of the fabric. And as silk chiffon is very light... yeah I think
that others might find success if they try a few times:) It's really funky
stuff, the water goes yellow and as the dye comes out of the fabric it
doesn't change the water.

For the saree though the dye leeched into the water in the first batch so I
poured the water out dried the fabric and then did it again. This time no
leeching of the dye, but a little of the print stayed. I suspct though I
could get more out if I did it again.

michaela



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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 06:05:17 -0000
Status: RO

On 9 Dec 2002 at 10:05, Bella wrote:

> I've heard people complain about the heat factor of
> poly/cotton before, so I hope you all don't mind if I
> share my experience with poly/cotton.
> 
> I wear linen camicias mostly. I have one in cotton.
> However, for outerwear I've yet to see, let alone buy,
> a 100% cotton jacquard. Silk brocades are right out of
> my price range. So I mostly use poly/cotton jaquards.

And that brought it home to me just how much I don't 
know. Appreciating the level of my ignorance is no 
doubt a step forward, but how to take the next step?

Can anyone recommend a work of reference, 
whether on-line, printed, or whatever, that would tell 
me what all these types of fabric are, how to 
recognise them, how to use them, when they were in 
use, and so on? 

(I suspect the only really useful reference would be 
one that came with fabric samples to feel, but that 
doesn't sound likely.)



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 22:17:33 -0800
Status: RO

Re:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Rose Jones" <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 5:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?


> I think there's plenty of room for posting things that one isn't 100%
> air-tight sure about -- I think it's just a matter of distinguishing
> the different types of information clearly.  People might get  riled
> up if one posted, "Peasants in Lower Slobovia wore socks on their
> heads" whereas a posting along the lines of , "I've seen some
> illustrations of peasants in Lower Slobovia with something on their
> heads that looks remarkably similar to a sock" might provoke an
> enthusiastic thread about hat construction and Slobovian footwear
> styles.
>
If someone said to me "Peasants in Lower Slobovia wore socks on their heads"
I would say "Oh, how interesting, please tell me more" and I would await the
details.  If another said,  "I've seen some illustrations of peasants in
Lower Slobovia with something on their heads that looks remarkably similar
to a sock" I would say "Oh, how interesting, please tell me more"  And that
is because I am interested in costuming and in learning what another has to
say about their discoveries.  It does not matter to me that the presenter,
for whatever reason, has chosen not to speak in the academic equivalent of
psychobabble, especially in this type of forum. It is also a matter of being
gracious.

I might feel more at ease and the information might flow more quickly when I
am having a discussion with someone who shares my communication style, but
that does not mean someone coming from another angle doesn't have something
valuable to contribute or might benefit from info I could share if I didn't
reject them in the first instance.


Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 17:37:44 -0500
Status: RO

I once got a huge bolt of dark blue glazed chintz at a
going-out-of-business sale. (It was only $10, so how could I refuse?)  I
used it for fancy table cloths and other soft furnishings for feasts and
large parties. I've washed the table cloths 4 or 5 times now, and found
eventually the glazing does slowly come off. Until then it was perfect,
unless somebody really spilled something icky I could just wipe them off
with a damp cloth and they were fine. The cotton fabric itself is a
pretty good quality, so as yet I don't have to iron them before using
them. (When that day comes, I'll have to rethink this plan!) Best of
all, candle wax could be picked right off with no real damage to the
cloth. 

I have no idea how one would glaze fabric at home. I can't think of
anything, wax or starch, that would have been available to 1800's people
that we could make work easily for us today. Of course they had a method
of doing this, but perhaps it's one of those things that requires
special tools or machinery to accomplish?  I have an old household
recipe book from the 1870's, I'll see if it says anything about this,
but I won't have time to look until tomorrow.

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 10:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining

So many original garments from the 1800s are lined with the same tan
glazed 
cotton.  Where does one get this stuff nowadays?  Alternatively, can the

glazing process be duplicated at home?  Does the glazed-ness survive the

washing machine?




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton (polished), jacquard, etc
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 22:36:04 -0800
Status: RO

I would recommending going to a nice department store and selecting a number
of garments of different fibres and trying them on.  You could even do some
jumping jacks in the dressing room and work up a bit of a sweat.  The
problem with synthetic fibres is they do not absorbe much water due to their
molecular structure so sweat does not get to the outside air as easily, so
it does not evaporate which cools down the body temperature.  Information on
fibre properties is available on line and in 1st year textbooks on textiles.
Keywords internet search is "fibre properties" or "fabric properties".

I lived in a hot and humid climate not so long ago and had ONLY natural
fibres, as a consequence, I often looked rumpled.  Polyester heat sets very
well and resists wrinkling,  but it wasn't enough of a trade off for me.

Your main natural fibres are cotton, linen, wool & silk, mohair.
Rayon/viscos is a synthetic fabric, but is made from wood cellulose and thus
absorbs moisture well, so I think of it as a natural fibre.  Ramie is also a
"bast of plant" fibre like linen and is super absorbent.  Polyester,
acrylic, nylon, Olefin and acetate are all synthetic and don't "breath" very
well.

Fabric properties are strength, elasticity, absorbency, wrinkle resistance
etc... I'll stop here as I just had a quick look on a search engine and
there are oodles of sites to look at.

Cheers,

Lisa Sinervo



----- Original Message -----
From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 10:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Cotton (polished), jacquard, etc


> On 9 Dec 2002 at 10:05, Bella wrote:
>
> > I've heard people complain about the heat factor of
> > poly/cotton before, so I hope you all don't mind if I
> > share my experience with poly/cotton.
> >
> > I wear linen camicias mostly. I have one in cotton.
> > However, for outerwear I've yet to see, let alone buy,
> > a 100% cotton jacquard. Silk brocades are right out of
> > my price range. So I mostly use poly/cotton jaquards.
>
> And that brought it home to me just how much I don't
> know. Appreciating the level of my ignorance is no
> doubt a step forward, but how to take the next step?
>
> Can anyone recommend a work of reference,
> whether on-line, printed, or whatever, that would tell
> me what all these types of fabric are, how to
> recognise them, how to use them, when they were in
> use, and so on?
>
> (I suspect the only really useful reference would be
> one that came with fabric samples to feel, but that
> doesn't sound likely.)
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: beginner resources (was Re: [h-cost] Cotton (polished), jacquard, etc
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 22:41:15 -0800
Status: RO


> > I wear linen camicias mostly. I have one in cotton.
> > However, for outerwear I've yet to see, let alone buy,
> > a 100% cotton jacquard. Silk brocades are right out of
> > my price range. So I mostly use poly/cotton jaquards.
>
>And that brought it home to me just how much I don't
>know. Appreciating the level of my ignorance is no
>doubt a step forward, but how to take the next step?
>
>Can anyone recommend a work of reference,
>whether on-line, printed, or whatever, that would tell
>me what all these types of fabric are, how to
>recognise them, how to use them, when they were in
>use, and so on?

The 'when they were in use' part is tricky, but the rest is relatively easy.

>(I suspect the only really useful reference would be
>one that came with fabric samples to feel, but that
>doesn't sound likely.)

One way might be to take an adult education class in sewing.  Another might 
be to go to a really classy fabric store, and ask somebody to show you the 
various kinds of fabrics.  If you go at a time when they're not too busy, 
they might just oblige you.  Make a list of names of kinds of fabrics you 
want to be shown, and that might help.

My favorite book for beginners (I use my copy for reference, since I don't 
know everything either) is that Reader's Digest book of sewing.  It doesn't 
assume you know anything, so it starts out with tons of basic stuff, fully 
illustrated.  And that's just the front of the book.  The whole back part 
is the how-to section, with illustrations that I suspect would make sense 
to any person who already sews, and maybe even people who don't yet.  For 
example, I wanted to put a welt pocket in something, in the middle of the 
night, but couldn't remember how.  This book had the kind I wanted, with 
step-by-step illustrations and text, plus two other kinds as well.  There 
are a couple of different editions of this one, and they often show up used.

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Delurking . . . with a Roman Question
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:22:03 -0000
Status: RO

>Several re-enactment groups, I think.  The Ermine
Street Guard

Most don't have civilian women, I did a quick look for Alex Cromm's group
who do on the web, but couldn't find a web page her email appears quite
often so it might be with dropping her a line

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:23:40 -0000
Status: RO

>But I've had it succesfully take out all the dye from store bought silk. It
might also as I said before require a few extra sessions if the dye is
particularly set.

Silk is not as fast as cotton, ie the dye does cannot make such a strong
chemical bons, therefore the best dyed silk will be easier to remove colour
from than the best dyed coton

Mel

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Subject: Re: Baralier's web site, was Re: [h-cost] OT, but NOT a food question.
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 18:19:17 +1100
Status: RO

From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
> --- Baralier <baralier@optusnet.com.au> wrote: > >
>
> > As I'm sure happens when the discussion involves the minutae of 17th
> > century panniers if you have no interest in that area. Or the dyeing
> > of fabrics...
>
> *winks* 18th century, 18th...

*thinks* Thought that had panniers in late 17th C. also. My mistake.

> Anyway, I have been spending some time looking through your web site, when
taht
> was suggested (hadn't seen your link in the first place) and I am enjoying
> myself immensely. GREAT photos of SUPER costumes! May I plug your site?
>
> http://members.optushome.com.au/velvetspyder/

Please do. I've had your site on my links for some years.

> It did crash my Netscape 7 and Internet Explorer, but works fine on Netscape
> 4.7. Go figure *G*

I believe the gif header plays havock with some browsers. Works fine
on IE6 & Netsccape 6 too.

> Nicole - who was a Goth herself once upon a time from 17 onwards but kinda
> stopped at 20 coz of realising that she loved the colours and clothes, but
was
> bored by the philosophy behind it. Whoops. :-)

There's a philosophy to Goth? *thinks* Oh yeah, snakebite, clothes,
music, angst and dethchyx. Not necessarily in that order :-)

Baralier
--
Good planning and organisation are just crutches for people who can't
handle stress and caffeine.
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From: Gia_Gavino@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] paned sleeves
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 07:30:17 +0000
Status: RO

Oh dear!

I've been so busy that I've been just deleting by subject line...and this 
subject line really caught my attention!  So, if this was mentioned in an 
email where the subject line wasn't changed, I've really missed out on some 
great info!  Rats!

Whoever did the notes on 17th c paned sleeves, I'd be interested in a copy 
too!  I don't know how much or who or when, but I'm always interested in 
learning more!

Gia/Giacinta
> Please send me a copy too of the notes you took on the
> 17c paned sleeves.  I'm going to ask Cassandra Greer
> to send me a copy of the Munich catalog as soon as I
> pay off the furnace repairs next week and then I want
> to start a copy of the woman's paned doublet.  I
> figure all those panes will be good stuck inside
> winter work so am looking for all the info on paning I
> can get.
>                               Cassandra
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] January Classes
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 03:02:23 -0500
Status: RO

We have six classes that will be taught year round at the Costume Classroom
www.costumeclassroom.com .  Starting Jan. 13, you can start these classes at
any time.  You will have two months to complete the class.  You may enroll
in the class at anytime, then when you are ready to start the class, just
email me.  When you enroll you do not need to let me know when you want to
start.  Below are the year round classes.

Classes being taught by h-costume members are named in ( ).

*** Beginning Sewing (Liz Gerds)
*** Making a Late 18th Century Wardrobe: Ladies Strapless Stays
*** Making a Late 18th Century Wardrobe: Pet-en-l'air or Robe à la Française
*** Dressing Jane Austen: Making Your Own Regency Gown (Jennie Chancey)
*** Clone Yourself: Making A Paper Tape Dressform (Stephen Bergdahl)
*** Clone Yourself: Intro to Slopers (Stephen Bergdahl)

REGULAR CLASSES STARTING IN JANUARY 2003
*** 16th Century Women (class is full) (Drea Leed)
*** Cowgirls and Shady Ladies History (Marna Jean Davis)
*** Making an Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe: Under Garments (Stephen Bergdahl)
*** Fact or Fantasy? A Look at Costumes in Recent Regency Film Adaptations
(Jennie Chancey)
*** Elizabethan Glove Making: Make your own pair of gloves (Franchesca
Havas)

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 08:17:00 +0000
Status: RO

Hi!

I don't know if hedgehogs do, but I think Threadneedle Street does, and they 
have a website too!  Denise is wonderful and if she doesn't what you need, 
she's great at finding it.

www.Threadneedlestreet.com

I'm not sure about the case sensitivity...but I know I spelled it right!

Gia/Giacinta
a very happy customer..
> No, hedgehogs can't carry giraffes.  Giraffes can't get their feet that 
> close together.
> 
> 
> Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote
> >Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or perhaps
> >another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery hoops
> >ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another alternative?
> >Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding hand owing
> >to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.
> >
> >Thank you for your help.
> >
> >Arlys in Oregon
> >
> >
> >________________________________________________________________
> >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> >Only $9.95 per month!
> >Visit www.juno.com
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  9 03:26:59 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Delurking . . . with a Roman Question
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 08:25:55 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote: > >Several
re-enactment groups, I think.  The Ermine
> Street Guard

Do not meddle with the Vermine Street Guard, not ever, this is my
recommendation. Not because of the individual members - not going to slander
anyone here, don't mind them - but I am afraid their 'glorious leader' has
shown himself as being a megalomaniac. That's my personal recommendation, and
based on experience, but someone might think the opposite. (maybe, very very
maybe)

Legio II Augusta has its own female section and they do a lot, it is called
Domina. The URL for Legio II is:

http://www.legiiavg.org.uk/

They seem to be quite friendly from experience. The friendliest and loveliest
of them all are the 'blue ones' I think it is Legio IX or so? demmit, I can't
remember, sorry... have to ask Les next time I see him.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton (polished), jacquard, etc
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 02:35:59 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 9 Dec 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> Can anyone recommend a work of reference, whether on-line, printed, or
> whatever, that would tell me what all these types of fabric are, how
> to recognise them, how to use them, when they were in use, and so on?
> 
> (I suspect the only really useful reference would be one that came
> with fabric samples to feel, but that doesn't sound likely.)

I've actually heard of such a book. It was mentioned on this list a couple
years back. I believe this is it:

All About Silk: A Fabric Dictionary & Swatchbook (Fabric Reference Series,
Volume 1)

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/096376120X/qid=1039422052/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/002-5976763-3844865?v=glance&s=books

It's part of a series; there's a wool book and a cotton book too. At $35 a
pop, it's maybe a little much to spend to buy the whole line, but a cool
thought nonetheless. The Amazon reviews are useful. If the person who
recommended this to the list originally is still on the list, perhaps s/he
will add some more concrete informatin.

There are also a couple of online fabric/fashion dictionaries. I don't
have the URLs on hand; I'd have to do some hunting, and it's 2:20 a.m. so
I'm not going to now. Perhaps this description will ring a bell for
someone else who does have the information handy.

(And by this post I hope also to demonstrate that it's perfectly fine to
post a reply to a question when you don't quite know the answer but have
some contributing information, and you hope by adding some hints and
recollections that you'll spur someone else to help fill in the rest of
the blanks. Lord knows I constantly post on this list with statements like
"I think I read once that XYZ... anyone know more about that?")

--Robin


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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 08:33:36 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Baralier <baralier@optusnet.com.au> wrote: > 

> *thinks* Thought that had panniers in late 17th C. also. My mistake.

Nah, but don't worry 'bout it. What was worn underneath a mantua was a pad that
looks cannily a lot like a bustle pad. I should really get a photo taken of
mine, looks so stupid. ;-) The extension in that period is towards the back,
not the sides. Side-extensions come definitely after my period, and I have to
ask now the 18th century enthusiasts: when did the gowns widen to the side in
the 18th century?

> > http://members.optushome.com.au/velvetspyder/
> 
> Please do. I've had your site on my links for some years.

Thank you very much ;-) I had another look, and I must say, the BloodBride
costume is breathtaking. Lots of others too, but that one I can't get out of my
mind. Wow!

> There's a philosophy to Goth? *thinks* Oh yeah, snakebite, clothes,
> music, angst and dethchyx. Not necessarily in that order :-)

*GRINS* yep, too much angst for lil ol manic-depressive me. Also, while I love
black, white, blood red and the occasional tad of purple, I realised that I
could wear 'real' historical costumes or historicised ones without the white
make-up. *winks* Apart from that some of the music I used to listen to DID make
me depressed after a while and I like Baroque music, Lully, Purcell, Vivaldi,
Bach, Geminiani, Scarlatti, Haendel, etc. so much more.

Still, I have the fondest memories of those four years and the night clubs I
went to, back in the days when I was thin and young enough to go out in nothing
but high heeled boots, corset, elbow length gloves, black pantie-thingy and a
net skirty thing over it and lots of make-up.

Nicole - lost in memories of a superb figure *laughs*

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton (polished), jacquard, etc
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 08:41:12 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> wrote: > 

> (I suspect the only really useful reference would be 
> one that came with fabric samples to feel, but that 
> doesn't sound likely.)

Jane, I am happy to offer you a fondle-and-wear test for different fabrics. All
my underdresses are linen (mainly coz it's cheap here, I love it, and I have
problems with other fibres) but I have also a cotton one you could try on, and
for comparison a huge polyester shirt you could try and bounce about in to work
up a sweat or so. I might also have some old polycotton thingy around in the
loan kit bag. Shall I take all of that to 12th night perhaps? I'm happy to do
that and come early or so.

I have a real problem with non natural fibres, didn't used to, but it got so
much worse. I can't even bear wearing tights, unless they are almost completely
cotton and even then it feels pretty sticky. It's weird, but even when I wear
the huge polyester shirt, I feel icky and sticky, even when worn over a
t-shirt. I really do think that having problems with sweating in non natural
fibres or not is a very individual thing on top of the climate of course.

Nicole - as usual completely in cotton and wool at work

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] georgian painted fabric
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 08:47:16 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- MaryAnn Jones <mabse@attbi.com> wrote: > there is fabric on e-bay that
says it is 1750s.  Is this even possible?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=927744232&category=2222

Yes I think it very well is, and I know that the seller has been selling a lot
of stunning antiques in the past year. BUT I would never ever buy this piece of
silk even if I had the money, the rot has set in so badly that it has already
holes: once silk has started to rot there is nothing one can do other than
slowing the process: it WILL rot no matter. 

Nicole

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:05:10 GMT
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote :

> Jane, I am happy to offer you a fondle-and-wear test for different fabrics.

Now *there's* the ideal solution! One-to-one tuition: what could be better? Nichole, you're wonderful!


> Shall I take all of that to 12th night perhaps? I'm happy to
> do
> that and come early or so.

Sadly I won't be at Twelfth Night, but I will be at Winter (next weekend)



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Websites with Victorian and Edwardian jewelry
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:14:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote: > 

Thanks Fran, great links, I bookmarked them all because one never knows.

> Etruscan Jewelry
> http://www.il-girasole.com/jewlcatalog.htm
> Reproductions of Etruscan jewelry; they might appeal to those who like
> Etruscan Revival..

Lovely, lovely lovely!

> L. Maris
> http://www.addgr.com/jewel/maris/index.html
> Classical Greek style jewelry; it might appeal to those who like
> Etruscan Revival.

OHMYGOODNESS!!! I think I gasped in an overabundance of pleasure and then cried
because of the prices. Oh my is that beautiful, but several thousand dollars
are just not in my league, there's a new car I need to buy eventually... *sigh*

Nicole - who wants a Greek necklace instead!

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My booklet is out! -- (i.e., this year's projects, was next year's projects)
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:17:28 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net> wrote: > Since I mentioned this in another
post...  Pardon me, folks, for blowing my 
> own horn just a little!

Congtaulations!

I may not do 18th c. (yet..) but I am definitely interested in the booklet, and
like Drea's one, this one will surely one day be added to my costume book stash
(read: BIG stash).

Nicole

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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 23:07:29 +1100
Status: RO

From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
>
> >You are making me wish we had a better way of exchanging drawings as
> >we may be saying the same thing!
>
> I was just thinking the same thing.  I guess there is nothing that
> prevents us from starting an H-Cost group on Yahoo or some other host
> just to take advantage of the file exchange stuff.

One exists already (thought it isn't active)

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/h-costume/

Baralier
--
Good planning and organisation are just crutches for people who can't handle
stress and caffeine.
http://members.optushome.com.au/velvetspyder
Costumier & Reprobate

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:59:22 -0500
Status: RO

I have a lot of hoops and varieties of threads and frames and other
embroidery tools.  What is a 'giraffe' and do I need one to complete my work
space.?  This is a new term for me!  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt


> And who likes spiky bits in their feet anyway?
>
> Poor giraffe. ;)
>
> Arlys
>
> On Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:51:09 +0000 Jean Waddie
> <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes:
> > No, hedgehogs can't carry giraffes.  Giraffes can't get their feet
> > that
> > close together.
> >
> >
> > Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote
> > >Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or perhaps
> > >another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery
> > hoops
> > >ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another
> > alternative?
> > >Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding hand
> > owing
> > >to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.
> > >
> > >Thank you for your help.
> > >
> > >Arlys in Oregon
> > >
> > >
> > >________________________________________________________________
> > >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> > >Only $9.95 per month!
> > >Visit www.juno.com
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >h-costume mailing list
> > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > --
> > Jean Waddie
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <7F170921.34AC662E.00862037@aol.com> <p05100301ba17130de6ff@[63.53.186.244]> <3DF181C4.FDD17762@lavoltapress.com> <5.1.1.6.2.20021208172326.01f21158@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 08:10:07 -0500
Status: RO

On authenticity, might I ask if any of you have delved into Ann Hollander's
"Seeing Through Clothes"?  I was gifted with  this wonderful book early in
my costume career and it helped me to develop new directions in making wiser
choices for both theatrical and Historical costuming.  Her comments on
authenticity were greatly to the point.  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin + Mara" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: how many of us are there?


> At 10:52 AM 12/7/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> >Hello the list, from cold, foggy Montana!
> ><soapbox on>
> >I agree...with Fran's comment, and with the person whom she's quoting.
> >However, I don't think that those who are more into authenticity should
> >have to apologize, either.  I really get tired of being referred to as a
> >"cosack" or "nazi" or any other disparaging term that somehow seems
> >designed to make me feel like I'm some sort of stereotypical
> >fun-stealer.
>
> Me, too!
> I want to know the 'authentic' way to do things so I can, if I choose to,
> or so that I can figure out an appropriate way to 'fudge' it and still get
> the right look, if I want to do that.  But how else can you figure out the
> latter, if you don't know the former?
>
> >Obligatory Costume Content: Today, I'm off to JoAnn's with my discount
> >coupon, to see if they've got any wool (a girl can always hope, huh?),
> >and to a local fiber-arts store to buy my tablet-weaving supplies for my
> >gothic fitted gown (tm).  I'm going to buy some different perle cottons
> >to learn on, and some lovely 50/2 silk thread for the actual gown.
> >Maybe lots and lots of the silk thread--it's undyed/unbleached, and a
> >perfect weight to use for embroidery.  And I'm learning from friends
> >about natural dyes....<g>
> >--Sue
>
> Good luck!
> My local JoAnn's actually DID have some wool this year, much to my
surprise!
>
> -- Mara
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
References: <4.3.1.2.20021208191614.00cbae70@mail.frys.com>
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 06:10:07 -0700
Status: RO

I believe it's a mechanical process, involving heat and pressure.  There
are some really cool examples of glazed wools in my books on clothing
from the 18th c., and I *think* the books talk about the glazing process
as well.
Doesn't mean, of course, that modern glazed cottons aren't done
differently....It may very well be one of those finishes that sticks
around if you dry clean the stuff, but not if you regular-wash it.
Oh....and if anyone finds a source for glazed cotton, I'd love to know!
I need some to line a carraco jacket....
--sue


Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> So many original garments from the 1800s are lined with the same tan glazed
> cotton.  Where does one get this stuff nowadays?  Alternatively, can the
> glazing process be duplicated at home?  Does the glazed-ness survive the
> washing machine?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Websites with Victorian and Edwardian jewelry
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 08:26:50 -0500
Status: RO

Fran, I have been finding some interesting sets for these time periods in
Art and Artifact and Toscano catalogues.  The designs are credible, although
I could wish the stones were of a slightly better quality.  At least they
are glass(albeit with some iridescence).  Kathleen
www.Design Toscano.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 9:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Websites with Victorian and Edwardian jewelry


For the past three weeks, I've been searching websites that sell
antique and/or reproduction Victorian and Edwardian jewelry.  This is
related to Christmas; I'm having trouble finding anything really
suitable for my purposes.  I'd actually like to find some additional
sites, perhaps for the early 19th century or other eras altogether;
recommendations welcome.  Anyway, here are some of the sites I've been
looking at.

Classic Jewelry
http://www.classic-jewelry.de/
Reproductions of Victorian garnet jewelry.

Victorian Jet Works
http://www.whitbyjet.co.uk/catalogue/victorian/index.html
Reproductions of Victorian jet jewelry.

Heritage Jewelry
http://www.heritagejewellery.co.uk
Antique jewelry.

Fay Cullen
http://www.faycullen.com
Antique and reproduction jewelry.

Jane Liunas
http://www.jansjewells.com/
Mostly reproductions of Victorian and Art Deco jewelry; some
originals.

Arnould Jewelers
http://www.arnould1900.com/
Art Nouveau style jewelry.

Benitez Jewelers
http://www.benitezjewelers.com
Art Nouveau inspired jewelry.

Etruscan Jewelry
http://www.il-girasole.com/jewlcatalog.htm
Reproductions of Etruscan jewelry; they might appeal to those who like
Etruscan Revival..

Luna Nuova
http://www.lunanuova.com/
Reproductions of Etruscan jewelry; they might appeal to those who like
Etruscan Revival..

L. Maris
http://www.addgr.com/jewel/maris/index.html
Classical Greek style jewelry; it might appeal to those who like
Etruscan Revival.
--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: [h-cost] Oddball request
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 05:46:40 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


I've decided what I'm doing for my winter project.  Now I just need a 
couple hundred AOL CDs (or other junk CDs).  Would those of you who get
those AOL CDs in the mail and don't intend to use them send them to *me*
instead?  We're talking about doing an Intergalactic Cargo Cult at a
sci-fi convention next spring.  I really, really want to make the Folkwear
tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_ of them.  I
figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be able to come up
with enough CDs to do the project.  

If you wish to support this silliness, you can mail your junk CDs to:

Lee Thompson-Herbert
4600 Belfast Avenue
Oakland, CA 94619
USA

The guy I did the collander helmet for just gave me a battered up collander
so I can have a Happy Helmet too.  I'm already collecting pieces for it.
He figured I put in so much time on his costume, that he should pass along
any promising junk he finds at the flea market.  The whole thing should be
quite a sight if we can manage to pull it off.  We have until May to get
everything together.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 06:28:31 -0700
Status: RO

What a shame....if it were in better shape, I can just *see* Bjarne
buying it for something....somehow, those flowers really reminded me of
the embroidery he does sometimes!
--sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- MaryAnn Jones <mabse@attbi.com> wrote: > there is fabric on e-bay that
> says it is 1750s.  Is this even possible?
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=927744232&category=2222
> 
> Yes I think it very well is, and I know that the seller has been selling a lot
> of stunning antiques in the past year. BUT I would never ever buy this piece of
> silk even if I had the money, the rot has set in so badly that it has already
> holes: once silk has started to rot there is nothing one can do other than
> slowing the process: it WILL rot no matter.
> 
> Nicole
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Polished cotton, was how many of us are there?
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 13:39:59 +0000
Status: RO

Jane Williams wrote:

>I'm not sure if this is the stuff you're talking about, 
>but I got some cotton with one side looking sort of 
>shiny from a curtain shop. "Polished" isn't a word 
>they used but it would be descriptive.

So did I, and they called it cotton chintz. I'd always thought of chintz as a printed fabric, but these were plain.





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Subject: [h-cost] Speaking of painted/printed-was: fabric georgian painted fabric
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 06:43:42 -0700
Status: RO

Yes, absolutely-Painted silk was common and there are plenty examples of
cotton as well.  Fashion in Detail has several examples of each from
this era.  Even some metallic polka dots!  And remember Drea's example
of printed blackwork from even earlier.

Which brings up another history question.  I recently visited the local
Phoenix Art museum which has a small be decent fashion collection.  They
had a number of Fortuny gowns on display and the literature said he had
based his work on Byzantine and (Rats, can't remember) textiles.  He
used a method of stenciling with paint and paste on velvet which looks
very much like embroidery.  

How far back can we go with painted fabric?  I vaguely remember that one
of Elizabeth's dresses from QEWU was painted-Rainbow dress? (too lazy to
go look right now).  It is the very colorful one with all the fantastic
animals on it.

Sg



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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 06:53:46 -0700
Status: RO


Do they have to be AOL cds, or will any old cds work for you?

						...eliz
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 13:59:09 +0000
Status: RO

Kathleen wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> rmitchell@washjeff.edu 12/09/02 01:10pm >>>
>On authenticity, might I ask if any of you have delved into Ann Hollander's
>"Seeing Through Clothes"?  I was gifted with  this wonderful book early in
>my costume career and it helped me to develop new directions in making >wiser choices for both theatrical and Historical costuming.  Her comments on
>authenticity were greatly to the point. 

I read our library's copy some 15 years ago and found it fascinating on various topics to do with the relationships between history, costume history and art history



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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions abook studies.
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:01:51 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

It sounds like the paned sleeve type I saw was different from the one you
are interested in making.  Mine didn't pouf at the top; it was relatively
close-fitting and split all the way down from shoulder to wrist in 6
pieces.

Are you trying to do a sleeve like the one on the Queen Elizabeth Phoenix
portrait?

Thanks,

Drea


 On Fri, 6 Dec 2002, Dhannti wrote:

>
>
> Drea Leed wrote:
>
> >
> > I did get to examine a pair of early 17th c. paned sleeves a while back,
> > and wrote down the details of how the thing was put together.  I can
> > forward you the info, if you're interested.  (I didn't get to take photos
> > unfortunately.  :(
> >
>  Drea  please do.   I thought about cutting two sleeve patterns in half
> and using a mutton sleeve top gathing it to the narrower sleeve ,adding
> trim to cover the seam, laying the panes over the pouf and attaching the
> panes with buttons or simlper stitches. I fear it will all cave in from
> the weight of the panes.   I wonder if this would work if I used some
> type of interfacing to keep the fullness?
>
>
> Diana
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Polished cotton, was how many of us are there?
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In a message dated 12/9/2002 8:41:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:


> So did I, and they called it cotton chintz. I'd always thought of chintz as 
> a printed fabric, but these were plain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Chintz did originally refer to the hand-painted Indian fabrics (17th-18th c.) 
but has now come to be applied to glazed cotton fabrics, printed or plain.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/9/2002 8:41:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">So did I, and they called it cotton chintz. I'd always thought of chintz as a printed fabric, but these were plain.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Chintz did originally refer to the hand-painted Indian fabrics (17th-18th c.) but has now come to be applied to glazed cotton fabrics, printed or plain.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  9 09:32:09 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:23:05 -0500
Status: RO

Thank you Mara for responding to my post.  The Eighteenth century house is
the 1790s. (The David Bradford House, homestead of one of the leaders of the
Whiskey Rebellion)  I have the reference book you have suggested and we have
some of the longer cloaks.  Some of the women are complaining that even with
the hood up they do not feel warm enough...especially when they are not used
to keeping anything on their heads even if it is tied on. I've finally
gotten them to come to terms with house caps.  I agree that the knitted
hoods are too late but am still curious as to weather their ilk might have
been thought of in this period.  I have just remembered another piece in my
'Fragments and Fragiles Bag' that might be interesting to research further.
It is fawn colored silk, shaped somewhat like a Quaker bonnet but without
the brim, and there is an indication that it ever had ties...at least that I
remember. Some of it is slightly wadded with cotton fluff seen beneath the
lining. The curtain has a 1" ruffle.  ON the same theme of warmies, What can
I suggest for the hands?  We have gloves and fingerless gloves and mitts;
would these be leather or knitted?  Muffs for what classes.
KathleenOriginal Message -----
From: "Kevin + Mara" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods


> Hi, Kathleen,
> What decade of the 18th c. is the site working with?
>
> I haven't seen any evidence for knitted hoods in the late 18th century,
but
> how about short cloaks (elbow-length) with hoods, made out of coating
> wool?  The hoods could be lined with linen or silk (or, since this is a
> historical site with presumably a limited budget, a modern lining material
> that looks like silk), and tied at the neck with a wool ribbon.  Don't
line
> the body of the cloak (that's more of a 19th c. thing), and leave the
> bottom edge of the cloak unhemmed; the wool should be sufficiently fulled
> that it will hold an edge.
>
> These would be faster to make than knitted hoods, too, since you
presumably
> need them for this winter's activities...?  If you have access to Beth
> Gilgun's _Tidings from the 18th Century_, she has a pattern for a
> full-length cloak that you could use for a shorter version.  This is a
good
> time of year to look in the fabric store for coating remnants, too; you
> could probably get some great deals.  I don't think an elbow-length cloak
> requires that much material (I'm guessing maybe a yard and a half of 60"
> wide fabric, though you'd want to lay the pattern out to be sure). The
body
> of the cloak is a half-circle, gathered to the hood, which is roughly
> rectangular in shape, with a seam down the back and with some gathers at
> the top of the seam (at the crown of the head) so that the hood doesn't
> have a 'point' on it.  It's hard to describe properly, but it's pretty
easy
> to make.
>
> The most common color for women's cloaks in the 18th c. was red, but other
> colors like black or grey weren't unknown, either.  I think shorter cloaks
> might have been more common in the middle of the 18th century than the
end,
> but still would be a better option, IMO, than knitted hoods.  Better to be
> a little old-fashioned than use something that hadn't been invented yet :)
>
> Cheers,
> Mara
>
> At 02:06 PM 12/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >One of the historical houses I assist with is expanding its costume/
> >education program. Since we are in a probable winter clime, there has
been
> >a request for 'head covers' to wear outside on the street...that will be
> >warm. What are some of the credible resources that will best answer this
> >problem.  I have some Fascinators from the mid 19th C and wonder if these
> >knitted hoods might have been a rediscovery then, of an earlier time.Any
> >thoughts?   Kathleen
>
> Kevin + Mara Riley
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 14:57:50 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

>The Eighteenth century house is
> the 1790s. (The David Bradford House, homestead of one of the
leaders of the
> Whiskey Rebellion)  I have the reference book you have suggested and
we have
> some of the longer cloaks.  Some of the women are complaining that
even with
> the hood up they do not feel warm enough...especially when they are
not used
> to keeping anything on their heads even if it is tied on.

I must stress that my reading on the Whiskey Rebellion is confined to
a few minutes, (how could anyone resist finding more about such an
amazing title) but unless the costume was entirely different to that
in Europe at a similar date they would have worn fur inside the home
as well as outside. Given the role of North America in providing furs
to Europe it seems highly improbable that people living in North
America would not have used the abundance of fur to hand, especially
when it was freezing cold-)

best wishes
Stevie.

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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:41:39 +0100
Status: RO

I have also ben on this list in some years now, and i kind of miss the old
days a little, where all kinds of questions were asked.
It is often told new members that they could look in the files to find out
how this and that was explained.
For my part i dont mind, if the same questions is asked again and again, and
mostly of the time, there is always a kind soul, who answers the questions
gladly.
So i would say to new members and lurkers, dont be afraid to ask what ever
you want, i surely would be glad to answer any questions i can. I am sure
others would like two.

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: [h-cost] 14th century colored linen?
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:31:53 -0800
Status: RO

Lisa Sinervo wrote:
<<  but I happen to know a bit about the existance
of 14th century coloured linen >>

Oh goodie, where?  I've been searching like crazy for the last year for evidence of this and evidence that colored linen was used to make clothing and I've had no hits.  I would love to see what you have on this.  Will you please share your source on this?

Thanks!

Colleen

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Subject: And gadgets for cord and hair! Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 15:46:05 +0000
Status: RO

It's a stand, with at least two 'feet', a single leg and a clamp-like device at 
the top to hold the hoop.

I have one, and several hoops that can attach to it.  But it's in storage until 
I have a house big enough for all my various textile arts and costuming hobbies.

Currently, I have a embroidery stand that I purchased from her that I *love*.  
It can hold the small stuff, huge stuff and all in between.  It can be set up 
with clamps or with screws and angel wing doohickeys...

Anyhow, it's up to the indiviudual if they want a stand or not.  I've got 
physical problems so I use the stand as much as possible.

And on to the other gadgets!

Nordic Needle has a 4 (yep! *four*) ply battery operated twisting machine!  For 
those who do weaving, spinning or other textiles that need a nice cord or 
fringe with 4 ply, that'd the super thing.

Nordic Needle has a web site...argh!  Which I don't seem to have with me!

Also, at most stores, there's a 2 ply *hair* braider (Target comes to mind) . 
Sears has in their sales flier a 3 ply hair braider *and* a "Quick Wrap hair 
art kit".  These braiders are battery operated plying machines, to make 
cordlike braids.  

All of those things can be used for textile finishing and the 'quick wrap' I 
thought would be *great* for those doing the Italian Ren "decorative hair 
wrapping and braiding' stuff.  I think some of the stuff would be good for 
doing some of the earlier hair braiding that was done, too.

Anyhow, have fun with your gadgets!

Gia/Giacinta
 
> I have a lot of hoops and varieties of threads and frames and other
> embroidery tools.  What is a 'giraffe' and do I need one to complete my work
> space.?  This is a new term for me!  Kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 10:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
> 
> 
> > And who likes spiky bits in their feet anyway?
> >
> > Poor giraffe. ;)
> >
> > Arlys
> >
> > On Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:51:09 +0000 Jean Waddie
> > <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes:
> > > No, hedgehogs can't carry giraffes.  Giraffes can't get their feet
> > > that
> > > close together.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote
> > > >Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or perhaps
> > > >another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery
> > > hoops
> > > >ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another
> > > alternative?
> > > >Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding hand
> > > owing
> > > >to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.
> > > >
> > > >Thank you for your help.
> > > >
> > > >Arlys in Oregon
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >________________________________________________________________
> > > >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> > > >Only $9.95 per month!
> > > >Visit www.juno.com
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> > > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> > >
> > > --
> > > Jean Waddie
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > >
> >
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> 
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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 10:56:21 -0500
Status: RO

If by glazing you mean a shiny surface, then that's right. The 
manufacturer feeds the fabric under a large roller while on a large 
flat table like thing. They apply pressure with the roller and high 
heat to give the fabric any sort of surface treatment either a shiny 
surface as in glazing or a embossed pattern, (some modern fabrics 
have this recently).

To replicate this try going to your fabric store's drapery department 
and looking at the drapery lining. Its 100% cotton and has a shiny 
surface. I've used it for lining dresses and it works nicely. It may 
be what you are looking for.

Lnda K-S

At 6:10 AM -0700 12/9/02, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>I believe it's a mechanical process, involving heat and pressure.  There
>are some really cool examples of glazed wools in my books on clothing
>from the 18th c., and I *think* the books talk about the glazing process
>as well.
>Doesn't mean, of course, that modern glazed cottons aren't done
>differently....It may very well be one of those finishes that sticks
>around if you dry clean the stuff, but not if you regular-wash it.
>Oh....and if anyone finds a source for glazed cotton, I'd love to know!
>I need some to line a carraco jacket....
>--sue
>
>
>Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>
>>  So many original garments from the 1800s are lined with the same tan glazed
>>  cotton.  Where does one get this stuff nowadays?  Alternatively, can the
>>  glazing process be duplicated at home?  Does the glazed-ness survive the
>>  washing machine?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:29:37 +0000
Status: RO

A giraffe is a type of stand that has clamps on it to hold an embroidery
hoop. There are tall standing floor models and also a type designed to be
sat on. I'm looking for the floor type. The idea is that it frees your
hands for working (lovely if you do ambidextrous stuff) and saves one
hand from the stress of constantly holding a hoop.

Lap frames are great too. I have a small one and a large one, but neither
is right for the small embroideries I am doing now.

Arlys

On Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:59:22 -0500 "Lloyd Mitchell"
<rmitchell@washjeff.edu> writes:
> I have a lot of hoops and varieties of threads and frames and other
> embroidery tools.  What is a 'giraffe' and do I need one to complete 
> my work
> space.?  This is a new term for me!  Kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 10:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
> 
> 
> > And who likes spiky bits in their feet anyway?
> >
> > Poor giraffe. ;)
> >
> > Arlys
> >
> > On Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:51:09 +0000 Jean Waddie
> > <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes:
> > > No, hedgehogs can't carry giraffes.  Giraffes can't get their 
> feet
> > > that
> > > close together.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote
> > > >Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or 
> perhaps
> > > >another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery
> > > hoops
> > > >ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another
> > > alternative?
> > > >Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding 
> hand
> > > owing
> > > >to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.
> > > >
> > > >Thank you for your help.
> > > >
> > > >Arlys in Oregon
> > > >
> > > >
> > > 
> >________________________________________________________________
> > > >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> > > >Only $9.95 per month!
> > > >Visit www.juno.com
> > > >_______________________________________________
> > > >h-costume mailing list
> > > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > > --
> > > Jean Waddie
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:32:53 +0000
Status: RO

Thank you! :D I'll look them up!

Arlys

On Mon, 09 Dec 2002 08:17:00 +0000 Gia_Gavino@attbi.com writes:
> Hi!
> 
> I don't know if hedgehogs do, but I think Threadneedle Street does, 
> and they 
> have a website too!  Denise is wonderful and if she doesn't what you 
> need, 
> she's great at finding it.
> 
> www.Threadneedlestreet.com
> 
> I'm not sure about the case sensitivity...but I know I spelled it 
> right!
> 
> Gia/Giacinta
> a very happy customer..
> > No, hedgehogs can't carry giraffes.  Giraffes can't get their feet 
> that 
> > close together.
> > 
> > 
> > Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote
> > >Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or 
> perhaps
> > >another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery 
> hoops
> > >ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another 
> alternative?
> > >Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding 
> hand owing
> > >to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.
> > >
> > >Thank you for your help.
> > >
> > >Arlys in Oregon
> > >
> > >
> > >________________________________________________________________
> > >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> > >Only $9.95 per month!
> > >Visit www.juno.com
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> > 
> > -- 
> > Jean Waddie
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 11:06:49 -0500
Status: RO



Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> It sounds like the paned sleeve type I saw was different from the one you
> are interested in making.  Mine didn't pouf at the top; it was relatively
> close-fitting and split all the way down from shoulder to wrist in 6
> pieces.
> 
> Are you trying to do a sleeve like the one on the Queen Elizabeth Phoenix
> portrait?
> 

More like the portrait of Catherine of Austria, Queen of Portugal by
Antonio Mor, c.1552. Its the way the sleeves appear to be one piece yet
they have the fullness at the top half.  


Thanks,
Di
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Subject: Re: And gadgets for cord and hair! Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:23:09 -0500
Status: RO

Thank you Gia/Giacinta!  That is about what I guessed, and I may already
have one (HMMM). I will have to look in that corner again. It is the "when I
have time to do "space.After years of 9-9 in the costume shop, I've decided
to cut the hours (and the business) to finally do some of the things I
really want to do...and take care of.  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gia_Gavino@attbi.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Fiamma the Unquenchable" <Fiammetta@aol.com>; "Nimue Lucia"
<margaritavil@hotmail.com>; "Antoinette Le Blanc"
<Antoinette@bowslaire.org>; "Raphaella DiContini" <raphaellad@yahoo.com>;
"HL Dana" <ladydana@bowslaire.org>; "Prudence" <prudence@blarg.net>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 10:46 AM
Subject: And gadgets for cord and hair! Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt


> It's a stand, with at least two 'feet', a single leg and a clamp-like
device at
> the top to hold the hoop.
>
> I have one, and several hoops that can attach to it.  But it's in storage
until
> I have a house big enough for all my various textile arts and costuming
hobbies.
>
> Currently, I have a embroidery stand that I purchased from her that I
*love*.
> It can hold the small stuff, huge stuff and all in between.  It can be set
up
> with clamps or with screws and angel wing doohickeys...
>
> Anyhow, it's up to the indiviudual if they want a stand or not.  I've got
> physical problems so I use the stand as much as possible.
>
> And on to the other gadgets!
>
> Nordic Needle has a 4 (yep! *four*) ply battery operated twisting machine!
For
> those who do weaving, spinning or other textiles that need a nice cord or
> fringe with 4 ply, that'd the super thing.
>
> Nordic Needle has a web site...argh!  Which I don't seem to have with me!
>
> Also, at most stores, there's a 2 ply *hair* braider (Target comes to
mind) .
> Sears has in their sales flier a 3 ply hair braider *and* a "Quick Wrap
hair
> art kit".  These braiders are battery operated plying machines, to make
> cordlike braids.
>
> All of those things can be used for textile finishing and the 'quick wrap'
I
> thought would be *great* for those doing the Italian Ren "decorative hair
> wrapping and braiding' stuff.  I think some of the stuff would be good for
> doing some of the earlier hair braiding that was done, too.
>
> Anyhow, have fun with your gadgets!
>
> Gia/Giacinta
>
> > I have a lot of hoops and varieties of threads and frames and other
> > embroidery tools.  What is a 'giraffe' and do I need one to complete my
work
> > space.?  This is a new term for me!  Kathleen
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 10:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
> >
> >
> > > And who likes spiky bits in their feet anyway?
> > >
> > > Poor giraffe. ;)
> > >
> > > Arlys
> > >
> > > On Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:51:09 +0000 Jean Waddie
> > > <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes:
> > > > No, hedgehogs can't carry giraffes.  Giraffes can't get their feet
> > > > that
> > > > close together.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote
> > > > >Might anyone know offhand if Hedgehog carries giraffes? Or perhaps
> > > > >another company? I am looking for one that can hold embroidery
> > > > hoops
> > > > >ranging from 3" on up. Any website suggestions? Or another
> > > > alternative?
> > > > >Basically I am trying to eliminate stress from my hoop-holding hand
> > > > owing
> > > > >to acute arthritis and need a stand that can hold one.
> > > > >
> > > > >Thank you for your help.
> > > > >
> > > > >Arlys in Oregon
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >________________________________________________________________
> > > > >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> > > > >Only $9.95 per month!
> > > > >Visit www.juno.com
> > > > >_______________________________________________
> > > > >h-costume mailing list
> > > > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Jean Waddie
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > h-costume mailing list
> > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________________________________________
> > > Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> > > Only $9.95 per month!
> > > Visit www.juno.com
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 11:25:17 -0500
Status: RO


I apologize to the list for my horrible typing. I just happened to
notice the header. I have been told I was the Queen of omissions but
this one is the worst yet.
Please accept my sincerest apologies.

Diana
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:14:39 -0500
Status: RO


This house was on the frontier, and while the family had Baltimore
connections, we feel that 'fur belows' would have been too  upper class in
this situation.Folk tended not to show  their wealth and tried to fit in
with the style of the community, which in this case were farmers and
trappers.  Other kinds of merchandize that was not home grown came in over
the mountains.   This was a thriving community as far as the town went, as
it was a crossroads and jumping off place for the wilderness  beyond the
Ohio.  Kathleen -- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods


> Hi all,
>
> >The Eighteenth century house is
> > the 1790s. (The David Bradford House, homestead of one of the
> leaders of the
> > Whiskey Rebellion)  I have the reference book you have suggested and
> we have
> > some of the longer cloaks.  Some of the women are complaining that
> even with
> > the hood up they do not feel warm enough...especially when they are
> not used
> > to keeping anything on their heads even if it is tied on.
>
> I must stress that my reading on the Whiskey Rebellion is confined to
> a few minutes, (how could anyone resist finding more about such an
> amazing title) but unless the costume was entirely different to that
> in Europe at a similar date they would have worn fur inside the home
> as well as outside. Given the role of North America in providing furs
> to Europe it seems highly improbable that people living in North
> America would not have used the abundance of fur to hand, especially
> when it was freezing cold-)
>
> best wishes
> Stevie.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:03:37 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


>Do they have to be AOL cds, or will any old cds work for you?

Any old CDs are fine.  I just mentioned the AOL ones because they
seem to be ubiquitous.

--Lee
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 09:07:33 -0800
Status: RO

At 08:25 AM 12/09/2002 +0000, N Kipar wrote:
>
>Do not meddle with the Vermine Street Guard, not ever, this is my
>recommendation. Not because of the individual members - not going to slander
>anyone here, don't mind them - but I am afraid their 'glorious leader' has
>shown himself as being a megalomaniac. That's my personal recommendation, and
>based on experience, but someone might think the opposite. (maybe, very very
>maybe)
>
This post is quite surprising, considering that quite recently you scolded
a poster for mentioning, without names, that she found someone on the list
to be irritating.  I think your statements are far less appropriate than
hers.  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] File sharing for the group
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 11:06:20 -0600
Status: RO

If all we are needing is a space to see pictures and stuff then I have space for us.
I am only using about 1/3 of my online allowance.  Also, I have essentially unlimited hits.
If it got to be a lot of files to manage, then I have no problem giving access to a select 
few persons to access the space with FTP and upload stuff up for others.
I am thinking something very simple like a small directory listing with files that would 
be accessed through a directory listing maybe.

This way, no one would have to "register" to see the stuff, and we would not have to deal 
with any annoying pop-ups or Yahoo ads in emails.

So if you are wanting to share files with other's send them to me... I will put them 
online for everyone, and post a quickie notice when they are available.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 12:14:47 EST
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In a message dated 12/7/2002 6:32:11 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
jane@williams.nildram.co.uk writes:


> I know them as "pinking shears". Which implys that when you refer to 
> "pinking", you're talking about something other than using these things? 
> 

Pinking can be done with a "Pinking tool"....and I think most 18th century 
pinking is done this way. It looks like a chisel and the cutting end can have 
all sorts of shapes. A strip of fabric can be folded and a mallet drives the 
toll through the material.

Of course anything can have a pinked edge. It's not just a sewing term. 
Y'know the flowers "Cottage pinks" do indeed come in pink, but are named for 
the pinked edge of the petals.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/7/2002 6:32:11 AM Eastern Standard Time, jane@williams.nildram.co.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I know them as "pinking shears". Which implys that when you refer to "pinking", you're talking about something other than using these things? 
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Pinking can be done with a "Pinking tool"....and I think most 18th century pinking is done this way. It looks like a chisel and the cutting end can have all sorts of shapes. A strip of fabric can be folded and a mallet drives the toll through the material.
<BR>
<BR>Of course anything can have a pinked edge. It's not just a sewing term. Y'know the flowers "Cottage pinks" do indeed come in pink, but are named for the pinked edge of the petals.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] stays for a large person
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 16:39:18 -0800
Status: RO

>I've always liked the term "Rubenesque", comparing us to the lovely nudes in
>the paintings, none of which are particularly thin.
>-Megan

Among various of my medievalist friends, the popular term is 
"prosperous", which is used in a more gender-neutral way than 
"Junoesque" and "Rubenesque" tend to be.

Heather
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*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  9 12:34:35 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] off topic/ paper clay
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 18:34:29 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Saragrace
Thanks for the link to the supplier site, lovely.
Could you email me about the email list as well!
I am totally obsessed about this paper clay now :-( but i have not the time)
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  9 12:41:41 2002
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References: <5.1.1.6.2.20021208101718.01f2eb90@saltmine.radix.net> <00b801c29f8e$7db6ce60$705183d1@rmitchellras> <003601c29f93$58a962e0$1f0124d9@dan> <000d01c29f9e$13c63080$705183d1@rmitchellras>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:43:15 -0000
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 4:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods


>
> This house was on the frontier, and while the family had Baltimore
> connections, we feel that 'fur belows' would have been too  upper
class in
> this situation.Folk tended not to show  their wealth and tried to
fit in
> with the style of the community, which in this case were farmers and
> trappers.  Other kinds of merchandize that was not home grown came
in over
> the mountains.   This was a thriving community as far as the town
went, as
> it was a crossroads and jumping off place for the wilderness  beyond
the
> Ohio.  Kathleen -- Original Message -----
> From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 9:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > >The Eighteenth century house is
> > > the 1790s. (The David Bradford House, homestead of one of the
> > leaders of the
> > > Whiskey Rebellion)  I have the reference book you have suggested
and
> > we have
> > > some of the longer cloaks.  Some of the women are complaining
that
> > even with
> > > the hood up they do not feel warm enough...especially when they
are
> > not used
> > > to keeping anything on their heads even if it is tied on.
> >
> > I must stress that my reading on the Whiskey Rebellion is confined
to
> > a few minutes, (how could anyone resist finding more about such an
> > amazing title) but unless the costume was entirely different to
that
> > in Europe at a similar date they would have worn fur inside the
home
> > as well as outside. Given the role of North America in providing
furs
> > to Europe it seems highly improbable that people living in North
> > America would not have used the abundance of fur to hand,
especially
> > when it was freezing cold-)
> >
> > best wishes
> > Stevie.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:33:59 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

It's not comprehensive or historical, but a good book for
a beginner would also be Sandra Betzina's Fabric Savvy, which tells a
lot about various types of fabrics while instructing you on how to sew them.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561582670/qid=1039455037/

> 
> 
> On Mon, 9 Dec 2002, Jane Williams wrote:
> 
> > Can anyone recommend a work of reference, whether on-line, printed, or
> > whatever, that would tell me what all these types of fabric are, how
> > to recognise them, how to use them, when they were in use, and so on?
> > 
> > (I suspect the only really useful reference would be one that came
> > with fabric samples to feel, but that doesn't sound likely.)
> 
> I've actually heard of such a book. It was mentioned on this list a couple
> years back. I believe this is it:
> 
> All About Silk: A Fabric Dictionary & Swatchbook (Fabric Reference Series,
> Volume 1)
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/096376120X/qid=1039422052/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/002-5976763-3844865?v=glance&s=books
> 
> It's part of a series; there's a wool book and a cotton book too. At $35 a
> pop, it's maybe a little much to spend to buy the whole line, but a cool
> thought nonetheless. The Amazon reviews are useful. If the person who
> recommended this to the list originally is still on the list, perhaps s/he
> will add some more concrete informatin.
> 
> There are also a couple of online fabric/fashion dictionaries. I don't
> have the URLs on hand; I'd have to do some hunting, and it's 2:20 a.m. so
> I'm not going to now. Perhaps this description will ring a bell for
> someone else who does have the information handy.
> 
> (And by this post I hope also to demonstrate that it's perfectly fine to
> post a reply to a question when you don't quite know the answer but have
> some contributing information, and you hope by adding some hints and
> recollections that you'll spur someone else to help fill in the rest of
> the blanks. Lord knows I constantly post on this list with statements like
> "I think I read once that XYZ... anyone know more about that?")
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5.1.1.6.2.20021208101718.01f2eb90@saltmine.radix.net> <00b801c29f8e$7db6ce60$705183d1@rmitchellras> <003601c29f93$58a962e0$1f0124d9@dan> <000d01c29f9e$13c63080$705183d1@rmitchellras>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:47:14 -0000
Status: RO

Kathleen wrote:

> This house was on the frontier, and while the family had Baltimore
> connections, we feel that 'fur belows' would have been too  upper
class in
> this situation.Folk tended not to show  their wealth and tried to
fit in
> with the style of the community, which in this case were farmers and
> trappers.

I'm sorry, but I'm not following the thread of your argument. Surely
the trappers wore fur, did they not? Why would wearing fur not fit in
with the style of the community?

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oddball request
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In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Lee Thompson-Herbert" at Dec 09, 2002 05:46:40 AM
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:37:51 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Lee, you should post on craigslist as well -- I've seen people
gathering AOL CDs there for other art prjects.

.heather.


> 
> 
> I've decided what I'm doing for my winter project.  Now I just need a 
> couple hundred AOL CDs (or other junk CDs).  Would those of you who get
> those AOL CDs in the mail and don't intend to use them send them to *me*
> instead?  We're talking about doing an Intergalactic Cargo Cult at a
> sci-fi convention next spring.  I really, really want to make the Folkwear
> tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_ of them.  I
> figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be able to come up
> with enough CDs to do the project.  
> 
> If you wish to support this silliness, you can mail your junk CDs to:
> 
> Lee Thompson-Herbert
> 4600 Belfast Avenue
> Oakland, CA 94619
> USA
> 
> The guy I did the collander helmet for just gave me a battered up collander
> so I can have a Happy Helmet too.  I'm already collecting pieces for it.
> He figured I put in so much time on his costume, that he should pass along
> any promising junk he finds at the flea market.  The whole thing should be
> quite a sight if we can manage to pull it off.  We have until May to get
> everything together.
> 
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Delurking . . . with a Roman Question
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:51:23 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com> wrote: > At 08:25 AM 12/09/2002
+0000, N Kipar wrote:
> >
> >Do not meddle with the Vermine Street Guard, not ever, this is my
> >recommendation. Not because of the individual members - not going to slander
> >anyone here, don't mind them - but I am afraid their 'glorious leader' has
> >shown himself as being a megalomaniac. That's my personal recommendation,
> and
> >based on experience, but someone might think the opposite. (maybe, very very
> >maybe)
> >
> This post is quite surprising, considering that quite recently you scolded
> a poster for mentioning, without names, that she found someone on the list
> to be irritating.  I think your statements are far less appropriate than
> hers.  

I do apologise, I shouldn't have sent that to the list, but it is not the same
thing, while it is the same 'should not have done'.
I mentioned names, yes, and it was not someone on the list, while not good -
and after sending and realising it went to the list I was not happy about it
but it was too late - it is not the same, but I don't suppose that matters.

Anyway, apologies, I should have talked to Linda privately, because it was not
a matter for the list anyway, but talk between re-enactors in this country. I
would appreciate it, however, if you told me off in a different way.

Nicole - sorry for the slip, boohoo, I guess I have to work a few more
lifetimes on perfection.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions abook studies.
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 13:18:33 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Hm.  It's hard to tell with all the black and the gold trim on top, but it
may have been accomplished using a pattern like that at
http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f87L.html

The extra fabric for the puff is added to the underseam side, so when the
sleeve is gathered at the top, it has an interesting puff.

Drea


On Mon, 9 Dec 2002, Dhannti wrote:

>
>
> Drea Leed wrote:
> >
> > It sounds like the paned sleeve type I saw was different from the one you
> > are interested in making.  Mine didn't pouf at the top; it was relatively
> > close-fitting and split all the way down from shoulder to wrist in 6
> > pieces.
> >
> > Are you trying to do a sleeve like the one on the Queen Elizabeth Phoenix
> > portrait?
> >
>
> More like the portrait of Catherine of Austria, Queen of Portugal by
> Antonio Mor, c.1552. Its the way the sleeves appear to be one piece yet
> they have the fullness at the top half.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Di
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 10:20:28 -0800
Status: RO

I recently read a couple of articles on keeping a scrapbook
("scrapbooking").  This pastime has recently been revived and
apparently there are whole stores (brick-and-mortar and online)
devoted to supplies.  These include several styles of "scrapbook
scissors," which are designed to cut fancy edges in paper.

I have never had any inclination to keep a scrapbook, and so have not
seen the scissors in person.  But what I'm wondering is, could any of
them be used to pink fabric?  They are paper scissors, and I doubt
they are fine quality shears.  I can't get a good idea of what the
edges look like from the pictures.  But if the shapes they cut are
suitably historic, perhaps some could  be pressed into service for
pinking?  Has anyone on this list tried using them, either for a
scrapbook or costuming?

Fran


AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/7/2002 6:32:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> jane@williams.nildram.co.uk writes:
>
>
>
>> I know them as "pinking shears". Which implys that when you refer
>> to "pinking", you're talking about something other than using
>> these things?
>
> Pinking can be done with a "Pinking tool"....and I think most 18th
> century pinking is done this way. It looks like a chisel and the
> cutting end can have all sorts of shapes. A strip of fabric can be
> folded and a mallet drives the toll through the material.

---------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: And gadgets for cord and hair! Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:54:07 +0000
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On Mon, 09 Dec 2002 15:46:05 +0000 Gia_Gavino@attbi.com writes:
> It's a stand, with at least two 'feet', a single leg and a clamp-like 
> device at the top to hold the hoop.
lamps or with screws and angel wing doohickeys...
> 
> Anyhow, it's up to the indiviudual if they want a stand or not.  
> I've got  physical problems so I use the stand as much as possible.

That's me too. Arthritis. Removing stress from joints is a major issue.

> And on to the other gadgets!
> 
> Nordic Needle has a 4 (yep! *four*) ply battery operated twisting 
> machine!  For those who do weaving, spinning or other textiles that
need a nice 
> cord or fringe with 4 ply, that'd the super thing.

Cool! :-) There's also a funky little gadget called a "Spinster" that
does something similar. It's hand operated, but not at all difficult, and
spins up nice cords in no time flat.
 
Arlys

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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 18:31:28 -0000
Status: RO

Ooh! Searching for both of these in amazon.co.uk 
and adding to wish list....

The Wool and Cotton books in the swatch series 
seem to be unavailable in the UK :( Might consider 
paying postage from the USA, might not... but then 
the last few days of working silly hours got me not 
only lots of overtime payments, but also a bonus 
from a happy boss. So maybe I'll treat myself.


> It's not comprehensive or historical, but a good book for
> a beginner would also be Sandra Betzina's Fabric Savvy, which tells a
> lot about various types of fabrics while instructing you on how to sew
> them.
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561582670/qid=103945503
> 7/

> > All About Silk: A Fabric Dictionary & Swatchbook (Fabric Reference
> > Series, Volume 1)
> > 
> > http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/096376120X/qid=1039422
> > 052/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/002-5976763-3844865?v=glance&s=books
> > 
> > It's part of a series; there's a wool book and a cotton book too. 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  9 13:40:36 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 14th century colored linen?
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:38:45 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> <<  but I happen to know a bit about the existance
> of 14th century coloured linen >>
> 
Colleen wrote:
> Oh goodie, where?  I've been searching like crazy
> for the last year for evidence of this and evidence
> that colored linen was used to make clothing and
> I've had no hits.  I would love to see what you have
> on this.  Will you please share your source on this?

Something appeared on the H-Needlework list a while
back that may be relevent to this. Nancy Spies posted
the following reference (which I'm copying directly
from Nancy's post on the topic). 

The point I gleaned (among others) is that a cloth
made of cotton and linen (or possibly cotton and hemp)
and of a beige or yellow color was worn as a top-layer
tunic by a nobleman living in the Occitan (now
southern France), in the 9th century. This helps lay
the groundwork for making a case that linen was dyed
and used as a fashion-layer fabric (as opposed to only
used as a white, undergarment fabric), at least as
early as the 9th century, as far north as what is now
called southern France. This by itself is not
sure-fire evidence proving 14th century use of linen
in this context, but it's another puzzle piece worth
considering. I too would love to know more about
sources proving the use of linen as a colored fashion
layer in the 14th century, if folks care to trot them
out.

Thanks,

Tasha McGann
________________________________________
"Cardon, Dominique.  "Burial Clothing of One of the
First Counts of Toulouse". Archaeological Textiles
Newsletter 21 (Autumn, 1995), 7-11.

(from the article:)
     
Near the southern portal of the romanesque basilica of
Saint Sernin in Toulouse, France, outside the church
but protected by a railing, a group of stone
sarcophagis have traditionally been considered to be
the tombs of the earliest Count of Toulouse. These
were members of the Frankish aristocracy who at the
downfall of the Carolingian Empire took over the
reality of power in what is now the region of
Languedoc.

Taking into account all their structural
characteristics, the one hundred textile fragments
found in the sarcophagus could eventually be
classified into five different types of textiles: 
there are two different qualities of linen
tabby, a 2/1 twill woollen cloth, a 3/1 twill-based
broken lozenge in linen and cotton, and some silk
braids [sic] in tubular tablet weaving... the
conclusion that they [the garments] correspond to the
rather close-fitting garments worn by an up to now
mysterious Raimond, Count of Toulouse.

Under a short, long-armed beige or yellow tunic, made
of a linen and cotton fabric with a lozenge pattern,
and fastened by red silk braids [sic], he was wearing
one -- or possibly two -- white linen shirt(s) and red
hose made of woollen cloth and going up to the thigh. 
A combination of the information provided by the
radio-carbon dating of one of his bones, and new
historical research into genealogy of the first Counts
of Toulouse has allowed a fairly precise dating for
his death: either AD 961 or 978, according to which of
several Raimonds he actually was.

Fabric of the Tunic.  Broken lozenge 3/1 twill, linen
(or possibly hemp, according to M. Ryder) warp, z,
26-28 threads/cm;  cotton weft, z, 29-30 threads/cm
...
     
The combination of fibres, spinning system, structure
of this fabric appears to be without known parallel in
Europe for that period.

After much reflection, I am inclined to venture the
hypothesis it may have been woven by Muslim weavers in
nearby Spain (the earliest silk samites in 3/1 twill
are thought to have come from there), and may
represent an origianl, cooler, imitation on a
horizontal loom of the diamond lozenges which were in
such fashion among the Frankish and Viking
aristocracies of the time in Northern Europe."


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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:38:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I also have unlimited space, since I have my own server.
People are welcome to email me photos and or web files for posting.

.heather.

> 
> What a nice way to do it. Thanks for the offer, Linda!
> 
> When I get my scanner up and running I may just take you up on it!
> 
> Kat Russell
> 
> > If all we are needing is a space to see pictures and stuff then I have
> > space for us. I am only using about 1/3 of my online allowance.  Also,
> > I have essentially unlimited hits. If it got to be a lot of files to
> > manage, then I have no problem giving access to a select few persons
> > to access the space with FTP and upload stuff up for others. I am
> > thinking something very simple like a small directory listing with
> > files that would be accessed through a directory listing maybe.
> > 
> > This way, no one would have to "register" to see the stuff, and we
> > would not have to deal with any annoying pop-ups or Yahoo ads in
> > emails.
> > 
> > So if you are wanting to share files with other's send them to me... I
> > will put them online for everyone, and post a quickie notice when they
> > are available. -- Linda Thompson
> > 
> > Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> > where Attitude is Everything
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 10:27:55 -0800
Status: RO

What a nice way to do it. Thanks for the offer, Linda!

When I get my scanner up and running I may just take you up on it!

Kat Russell

> If all we are needing is a space to see pictures and stuff then I have
> space for us. I am only using about 1/3 of my online allowance.  Also,
> I have essentially unlimited hits. If it got to be a lot of files to
> manage, then I have no problem giving access to a select few persons
> to access the space with FTP and upload stuff up for others. I am
> thinking something very simple like a small directory listing with
> files that would be accessed through a directory listing maybe.
> 
> This way, no one would have to "register" to see the stuff, and we
> would not have to deal with any annoying pop-ups or Yahoo ads in
> emails.
> 
> So if you are wanting to share files with other's send them to me... I
> will put them online for everyone, and post a quickie notice when they
> are available. -- Linda Thompson
> 
> Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> where Attitude is Everything

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In a message dated 12/9/02 2:02:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> But what I'm wondering is, could any of
> them be used to pink fabric?  They are paper scissors, and I doubt
> they are fine quality shears.  I can't get a good idea of what the
> edges look like from the pictures.  But if the shapes they cut are
> suitably historic, perhaps some could  be pressed into service for
> pinking?  Has anyone on this list tried using them, either for a
> scrapbook or costuming?
> 

I've tried a variety of the scrapbooking type scissors on a variety of 
fabrics with no luck I'm afraid.  The scissors are really made for paper and 
are just not sharp enough, too bad cuz they have some that would be truly 
perfect for 18th C.  Oh well.

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/9/02 2:02:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">But what I'm wondering is, could any of<BR>
them be used to pink fabric?&nbsp; They are paper scissors, and I doubt<BR>
they are fine quality shears.&nbsp; I can't get a good idea of what the<BR>
edges look like from the pictures.&nbsp; But if the shapes they cut are<BR>
suitably historic, perhaps some could&nbsp; be pressed into service for<BR>
pinking?&nbsp; Has anyone on this list tried using them, either for a<BR>
scrapbook or costuming?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I've tried a variety of the scrapbooking type scissors on a variety of fabrics with no luck I'm afraid.&nbsp; The scissors are really made for paper and are just not sharp enough, too bad cuz they have some that would be truly perfect for 18th C.&nbsp; Oh well.<BR>
<BR>
Cheers,<BR>
<BR>
Loren Dearborn</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 14:14:29 -0500
Status: RO

<<<?  Has anyone on this list tried using them, either for a
scrapbook or costuming?>>>

        I don't do scrapbooking either, but do have several pairs of the
scissors in different designs.  They don't cut fabric worth a darn, but
are great fun to use when making signs for my merchant table or edging
cards and such.  They work fine on paper, but I tried them on different
fabrics and they just don't cut it.  Of course, the ones I have were
pretty cheap.  I have a pair of cheap pinking shears meant to cut fabric
and they got dull very fast so have been relegated to the craft tools. 
My Fiskers pinking shears are wonderful, if rather unimaginative, giving
the zig zag cut edge on most fabrics with no problem.  I would NEVER use
them for paper as they are treasures.  
 

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:20:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Fran wrote:
> But what I'm wondering
> is, could any of
> them be used to pink fabric?  
<snip>
> Has anyone on this list tried using them,
> either for a
> scrapbook or costuming?

Fran,
My upstairs neighbor used a pair of plastic
'craft/scrapbooking' pinking shears on dupioni (or was
it shantung? can't remember...) silk when making a
Civil War-era apron. It worked well, as I recall;
minimal fraying.

-Tasha McGann

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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 11:29:26 -0800
Status: RO

I assume you tried taking them somewhere that can professionally
sharpen pinking-type shears?

Fran

> I've tried a variety of the scrapbooking type scissors on a variety
> of fabrics with no luck I'm afraid.  The scissors are really made
> for paper and are just not sharp enough, too bad cuz they have some
> that would be truly perfect for 18th C.  Oh well.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Loren Dearborn

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  9 14:48:28 2002
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From: Gia_Gavino@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: And gadgets for cord and hair! Re: [h-cost] Giraffe hunt
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 19:41:18 +0000
Status: RO

Yeah, I've got the Spinster.  I found it easy to use.  But I like the battery operated ones 
because I don't move so many joints as with the Spinster.  

Aren't these new gadgets fun?  Who says guys have all the fun 'toys'?

Gia/Giacinta
> On Mon, 09 Dec 2002 15:46:05 +0000 Gia_Gavino@attbi.com writes:
> > It's a stand, with at least two 'feet', a single leg and a clamp-like 
> > device at the top to hold the hoop.
> lamps or with screws and angel wing doohickeys...
> > 
> > Anyhow, it's up to the indiviudual if they want a stand or not.  
> > I've got  physical problems so I use the stand as much as possible.
> 
> That's me too. Arthritis. Removing stress from joints is a major issue.
> 
> > And on to the other gadgets!
> > 
> > Nordic Needle has a 4 (yep! *four*) ply battery operated twisting 
> > machine!  For those who do weaving, spinning or other textiles that
> need a nice 
> > cord or fringe with 4 ply, that'd the super thing.
> 
> Cool! :-) There's also a funky little gadget called a "Spinster" that
> does something similar. It's hand operated, but not at all difficult, and
> spins up nice cords in no time flat.
>  
> Arlys
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 19:45:16 +0000
Status: RO

As far as I know, pinking shears are mainly intended for edge finishing 
on hidden edges where you don't want the bulk of turning under, rather 
than for decoration.  I imagine it would be very difficult to keep a 
good enough edge for fabric on the fancy shapes you get with paper 
scissors.

Jean


Lalah T Tillinghast <catpurson@juno.com> wrote
><<<?  Has anyone on this list tried using them, either for a
>scrapbook or costuming?>>>
>
>        I don't do scrapbooking either, but do have several pairs of the
>scissors in different designs.  They don't cut fabric worth a darn, but
>are great fun to use when making signs for my merchant table or edging
>cards and such.  They work fine on paper, but I tried them on different
>fabrics and they just don't cut it.  Of course, the ones I have were
>pretty cheap.  I have a pair of cheap pinking shears meant to cut fabric
>and they got dull very fast so have been relegated to the craft tools.
>My Fiskers pinking shears are wonderful, if rather unimaginative, giving
>the zig zag cut edge on most fabrics with no problem.  I would NEVER use
>them for paper as they are treasures.
>
>
>Lalah
>Never give up, Never surrender
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach's Portrait of a woman 1522-better picture anyone?
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 19:56:33 +0000
Status: RO

Is a goller/caplet a similar thing to a partlet?

Jean


N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
>Yep, here you are:
>
>http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=45604+0+none
>
>National gallery of Art, it has details and a blooming good quality on top of
>it.
>
>Nicole
>
>> Does anyone have a better picture of this than this one?   I am trying
>> to figure out if she has a goller/caplet on or is the collar just part
>> of her gown?
>>
>> I've looked all over the internet for a better picture.  I thought maybe
>> one of you had seen it in person or had a book with it.
>>
>> Sg
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 19:59:39 +0000
Status: RO

Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net> wrote
>Hi, Kathleen,
>What decade of the 18th c. is the site working with?
>
>I haven't seen any evidence for knitted hoods in the late 18th century, 
>but how about short cloaks (elbow-length) with hoods, made out of 
>coating wool?  The hoods could be lined with linen or silk (or, since 
>this is a historical site with presumably a limited budget, a modern 
>lining material that looks like silk), and tied at the neck with a wool 
>ribbon.  Don't line the body of the cloak (that's more of a 19th c. 
>thing), and leave the bottom edge of the cloak unhemmed; the wool 
>should be sufficiently fulled that it will hold an edge.
>
I'm not sure if this style can pull up around the face, but if not, line 
with linen or a heavier cotton (for fake), so it's less likely to slip 
off.  Silk might hold, since it always has that slight roughness, but 
polyester for fake won't.

Jean

>These would be faster to make than knitted hoods, too, since you 
>presumably need them for this winter's activities...?  If you have 
>access to Beth Gilgun's _Tidings from the 18th Century_, she has a 
>pattern for a full-length cloak that you could use for a shorter 
>version.  This is a good time of year to look in the fabric store for 
>coating remnants, too; you could probably get some great deals.  I 
>don't think an elbow-length cloak requires that much material (I'm 
>guessing maybe a yard and a half of 60" wide fabric, though you'd want 
>to lay the pattern out to be sure). The body of the cloak is a 
>half-circle, gathered to the hood, which is roughly rectangular in 
>shape, with a seam down the back and with some gathers at the top of 
>the seam (at the crown of the head) so that the hood doesn't have a 
>'point' on it.  It's hard to describe properly, but it's pretty easy to make.
>
>The most common color for women's cloaks in the 18th c. was red, but 
>other colors like black or grey weren't unknown, either.  I think 
>shorter cloaks might have been more common in the middle of the 18th 
>century than the end, but still would be a better option, IMO, than 
>knitted hoods. Better to be a little old-fashioned than use something 
>that hadn't been invented yet :)
>
>Cheers,
>Mara
>
>At 02:06 PM 12/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>>One of the historical houses I assist with is expanding its costume/ 
>>education program. Since we are in a probable winter clime, there has 
>>been a request for 'head covers' to wear outside on the street...that 
>>be warm. What are some of the credible resources that will best answer 
>>this problem.  I have some Fascinators from the mid 19th C and wonder 
>>if these knitted hoods might have been a rediscovery then, of an 
>>earlier time.Any thoughts?   Kathleen
>
>Kevin + Mara Riley
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century colored linen?
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 12:03:37 -0800
Status: RO

Ditto. Please share your sources.

Thanks,
Roscelin

Colleen McDonald wrote:

>Lisa Sinervo wrote:
><<  but I happen to know a bit about the existance
>of 14th century coloured linen >>
>
>Oh goodie, where?  I've been searching like crazy for the last year for evidence of this and evidence that colored linen was used to make clothing and I've had no hits.  I would love to see what you have on this.  Will you please share your source on this?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Colleen
>
>
>  
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 14:17:20 -0600
Status: RO

Fran asked:
 Has anyone on this list tried using them, either for a
scrapbook or costuming?

I haven't had good luck with fabric, but they will cut lightweight 
leather.    Better yet, the hole punches that come in shapes (hearts, 
stars, etc) will punch light leather.  I've got all the right shapes to 
make that 'bethan leather doublet in Patterns of Fashion. 

Christina Biles
Digital Library Services
Edmon Low Library
Oklahoma State University
Phone   (405) 744-1215 
Email     bilescl@okstate.edu 
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 21:07:06 -0000
Status: RO

Christina wrote:

> I haven't had good luck with fabric, but they will cut lightweight
> leather.    Better yet, the hole punches that come in shapes
(hearts,
> stars, etc) will punch light leather.  I've got all the right shapes
to
> make that 'bethan leather doublet in Patterns of Fashion.
>

It will look lovely; I'm lucky enough to live very near to the Museum
of London, and I wander in quite often and drool over the doublet in
question! Fortunately it's behind glass, so it doesn't get damaged,
but you may bear that thought in mind in the outside world...
Where did you get your hole punches from?

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:20:48 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I'm looking for a source for alum, copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus
natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.  Does
anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of these
materials?  I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary of
overpricedness and dyestuff quality.  Any good references?

Thanks,

Drea


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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 06:31:43 -0800
Status: RO



Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:

>         A new question just popped into my little pea brain.  When did
> snaps first come out.  Can't imagine that they are very old, but they are
> so convenient.  Just curious.  Thanks
>

I don't think anyone else has answered this so I will. I believe they are
Edwardian, that is, they first appear in the early years of the twentieth
century
(nearly said 'this century' for a minute there)

Claire
(who has only just managed to catch up on the last few days mail)

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 06:38:12 -0800
Status: RO



Melanie Wilson wrote:

> >Peplos gowns: 'string' in the waist but excess fabric from top bloused over
> that = everything as wide as the widest part, the hips, and 'boat' neckline.
> *shudder*
>
> Gareth's been an Anglo Saxon so long he actually finds these sexy !!!
>

I tried Roman clothing for an event once, and I had the same problem. No
matter how I tied the girdle I just looked like a big potato. Thank heaven
for the palla - there's nothing like swathing yourself in a big length of fabric
to
disguise a myriad of ills....:-)

>
> I hate Napoleonic empire line stuff, my boobs are way to big !
>

I look terrible in anything that doesn't have a waist at or close to the natural

waist.
Claire

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:40:04 -0500
Status: RO

Fran, it is my understanding that these scissors are strictly paper
scissors.  A friend and I thought the same thing...that they would be great
for pinking fabric but they do not do this job at all well.  I have been
going to try them on ,say, taffeta with a stabilizer fiber.  Wouldn't it be
nice if the industry could imagine another use for these lovely pinking
patterns.  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking


> I recently read a couple of articles on keeping a scrapbook
> ("scrapbooking").  This pastime has recently been revived and
> apparently there are whole stores (brick-and-mortar and online)
> devoted to supplies.  These include several styles of "scrapbook
> scissors," which are designed to cut fancy edges in paper.
>
> I have never had any inclination to keep a scrapbook, and so have not
> seen the scissors in person.  But what I'm wondering is, could any of
> them be used to pink fabric?  They are paper scissors, and I doubt
> they are fine quality shears.  I can't get a good idea of what the
> edges look like from the pictures.  But if the shapes they cut are
> suitably historic, perhaps some could  be pressed into service for
> pinking?  Has anyone on this list tried using them, either for a
> scrapbook or costuming?
>
> Fran
>
>
> AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 12/7/2002 6:32:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > jane@williams.nildram.co.uk writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >> I know them as "pinking shears". Which implys that when you refer
> >> to "pinking", you're talking about something other than using
> >> these things?
> >
> > Pinking can be done with a "Pinking tool"....and I think most 18th
> > century pinking is done this way. It looks like a chisel and the
> > cutting end can have all sorts of shapes. A strip of fabric can be
> > folded and a mallet drives the toll through the material.
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 13:46:16 -0800
Status: RO


>I've decided what I'm doing for my winter project.  Now I just need a
>couple hundred AOL CDs (or other junk CDs).  Would those of you who get
>those AOL CDs in the mail and don't intend to use them send them to *me*
>instead?  We're talking about doing an Intergalactic Cargo Cult at a
>sci-fi convention next spring.  I really, really want to make the Folkwear
>tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_ of them.  I
>figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be able to come up
>with enough CDs to do the project.

AOL CDs and other 'coasters', right?


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Speaking of painted/printed-was: fabric georgian painted
 fabric
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 13:44:57 -0800
Status: RO


>How far back can we go with painted fabric?  I vaguely remember that one
>of Elizabeth's dresses from QEWU was painted-Rainbow dress? (too lazy to
>go look right now).  It is the very colorful one with all the fantastic
>animals on it.

I don't know about one-off painted fabric, but printed fabric goes back 
centuries.  There was a thread about this semi-recently.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projekts.
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 06:50:08 -0800
Status: RO

I have quite a lot of things on the to do list (my costume making has been
rather slow of late). Whether they will all get done this year is a matter for
debate.
First up I need to finish the things I'm currently working on:
a new houppelande of blue velveteen, the sleeves and collar lined in white silk
- the
sleeves have oakleaf dags which a pain in the proverbial to hem - and a
matching
headdress (well a new roll anyway, I will be using my old cauls with it)
an 'effigy corset' in yellow and white linen
a new linen shift for 14th/15th century stuff
a 1780's gown in fuschia silk (just needs hemming and the sleeves to be done)

Then there's the yet to be started list in rough order of priority
a 16th century loose gown (black velvet with lavender silk to line the sleeves
 and lavender linen to line the body
a red linen kirtle (15th century)
a grey wool cote-hardie (or gothic dress if you will) I need to get some linen
to line this
a red wool gown (16th century lower class) with green linen lining
a blue wool middle class houppelande

I think I'll stop there before I get depressed....:-)
Claire


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 15:50:19 -0600
Status: RO

Hi Drea,

Both alum and cream of tartar are used in cooking so any good supermarket
should have those available. I don't think I can help you with the rest
of it. Good Luck!


Karen

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From: kris <ionization@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 13:42:14 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:20 PM 09/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm looking for a source for alum, copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus
>natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.  Does
>anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of these
>materials?  I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary of
>overpricedness and dyestuff quality.  Any good references?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Drea


http://www.maiwa.com/
It's in Vancouver, BC, so keep in mind that the prices are Canadian. I've 
used some of their products before, purchased in their shop, and they seem 
quite good.

kris 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  9 16:57:11 2002
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From: Tasha McGann <demontsegur@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 13:57:02 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I wrote:
Fran,
My upstairs neighbor used a pair of plastic
'craft/scrapbooking' pinking shears on dupioni (or was
it shantung? can't remember...) silk when making a
Civil War-era apron. It worked well, as I recall;
minimal fraying.
___________________________

Given all the others here who said it didn't work for
them, I got to thinking and called my neigbor for
confirmation. She told me that she ended up abandoning
the plastic pinkers in favor of doing it by hand with
straight shears (youch! Lots of work!) because the
plastic ones ended up not working well on the fabric.

I've been under the impression she'd used the plastic
ones all along. I'm sorry for the erroneous info.

-Tasha McGann

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:04:43 -0500
Status: RO

I need to pull up my resource but I have a vague memory from something I've
read that trappers were on the , shall we say, lesser  end of the class
scale and it was not the thing to dress like them or use fur and skins in
the manner of  the native Americans. In the Eastern cities, at the same
time, wearing fur trimmings and linings seems to have been 'OK' for women of
fashion.    Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
rom: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods


> Kathleen wrote:
>
> > This house was on the frontier, and while the family had Baltimore
> > connections, we feel that 'fur belows' would have been too  upper
> class in
> > this situation.Folk tended not to show  their wealth and tried to
> fit in
> > with the style of the community, which in this case were farmers and
> > trappers.
>
> I'm sorry, but I'm not following the thread of your argument. Surely
> the trappers wore fur, did they not? Why would wearing fur not fit in
> with the style of the community?
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
References: <197.11e48065.2b262987@aol.com> <3DF4DEEC.1EC0BE79@lavoltapress.com> <002f01c29fcb$89c287c0$765183d1@rmitchellras>
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 14:04:30 -0800
Status: RO

Would it do any good at all to place (or baste) a piece of scrap paper under
the fabric while cutting?  Would this chew up the fabric less?  I'm assuming it
gets chewed up, since dull scissors tend to do that.

Fran

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Fran, it is my understanding that these scissors are strictly paper
> scissors.  A friend and I thought the same thing...that they would be great
> for pinking fabric but they do not do this job at all well.  I have been
> going to try them on ,say, taffeta with a stabilizer fiber.  Wouldn't it be
> nice if the industry could imagine another use for these lovely pinking
> patterns.  Kathleen

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From: mabse@attbi.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 22:15:58 +0000
Status: RO

I have been using the olfa blades.  not as many interesting edges, but there are 
a few and they are sharp and work on fabric.  I am using them to cut out fabric 
for bags to wrap christmas presents in.  If I pink the edges I can just leave 
them on the outside.  maryann
> I wrote:
> Fran,
> My upstairs neighbor used a pair of plastic
> 'craft/scrapbooking' pinking shears on dupioni (or was
> it shantung? can't remember...) silk when making a
> Civil War-era apron. It worked well, as I recall;
> minimal fraying.
> ___________________________
> 
> Given all the others here who said it didn't work for
> them, I got to thinking and called my neigbor for
> confirmation. She told me that she ended up abandoning
> the plastic pinkers in favor of doing it by hand with
> straight shears (youch! Lots of work!) because the
> plastic ones ended up not working well on the fabric.
> 
> I've been under the impression she'd used the plastic
> ones all along. I'm sorry for the erroneous info.
> 
> -Tasha McGann
> 
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From: kris <ionization@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projekts.
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 14:15:16 -0800
Status: RO

oh, this is scary :]

I need to finish the Christmas presents, first..
Polar fleece pants and jackets for parents, brother and boyfriend..
then...
a Marilyn Monroe costume
an effigy corset in rust linen
a linen cord boned corset for under Italian ren outfits, as an experiment.
another Italian ren (1490's or 1520's), but this time with a train on the 
back and sleeves. Must make the sleeves first!
a Turkish jacket, like the Folkwear one.
research and make matching Turkish garb (help?)
a "morning after" cloak or jacket out of fuchsia wool w/green blue and 
orange stripes :]
A set of middle class Elizabethan women's
matching set of middle class Elizabethan men's, for me
a queen sized ninepatch quilt.. the patches are 22" square (beginner's project)
proper italian camisia
proper underclothes for 14th c. French
a lace-up cote
a button-up cote

I'm sure I have more fabric, too. I just can't remember it all. But looking 
at this list, it's time I go get those Christmas presents done!

kris

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton (polished), jacquard, etc
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:48:50 -0800
Status: RO

At 6:05 AM +0000 12/9/02, Jane Williams wrote:

>Can anyone recommend a work of reference,
>whether on-line, printed, or whatever, that would tell
>me what all these types of fabric are, how to
>recognise them, how to use them, when they were in
>use, and so on?


There are a number of encyclopedia-type works on fabric types and 
names, all the way from very structure-oriented works like "The 
Primary Structures of Fabrics" (or is that "Structure" singular?) to 
works aimed at the textile industry.  They tend to be a lot less good 
on historic issues (even in terms of issues of historic terminology), 
but they can provide a good, solid base of modern terminology -- 
which helps in following technical discussions.  A book of this sort 
will generally have lots of photos, and diagrams for the weave 
structures.


>(I suspect the only really useful reference would be
>one that came with fabric samples to feel, but that
>doesn't sound likely.)

Some do -- but usually not a very extensive sampling.  For some 
reason, my experience has been that French books are more likely to 
include swatches.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:41:23 -0600
Status: RO

Stevie said:
>>>It will look lovely; I'm lucky enough to live very near to the Museum
of London, and I wander in quite often and drool over the doublet in
question! Fortunately it's behind glass, so it doesn't get damaged,
but you may bear that thought in mind in the outside world...
Where did you get your hole punches from?

Walmart and Hobby Lobby (a large hobby/low end decorating stuff store)- in 
the scrapbooking sections.  They usually hang right next to the edging 
scissors. I know that doesn't do you much good in the UK.  I will look at 
home to see who manufactures them.  Hmmm...  I wonder if it would work if 
I sized the heck out of the fabric?

The doublet is scheduled for next year's Christmas present for himself. He 
pauses on the page every time he flips through PoF, and then talks about 
leather doublets and jerkins for days afterward.
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 14:42:22 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_2777765==.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

I've mostly used a local supplier here in Sacramento called 
Rumplestilskin's (sp?) or have picked up cuttings from ag studies here in 
Davis.
I've used Dharma Trading and been pretty happy. Their madder root is 
slightly pricey but the other items are right in line price wise. Madder 
root is the one item I will pay lots for when I  find a good crop since it 
varies a lot by harvest/location. So if you find a good source, buy all you 
can from that one shipment.
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1893-AA.shtml

At 01:42 PM 12/9/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>At 04:20 PM 09/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>>I'm looking for a source for alum, copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus
>>natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.

Off the top of my head, add Brazilwood, Logwood, and Alkanet to your 
shopping list. Those 3 dyes are less fugitive then you think. Chrome is 
pretty toxic so I've done some good work with Tin but I can't remember 
where I got mine. I've never seen weld or woad offered as dry stuffs for 
sale. Seems that you have to grow your own or get freebies from the Ag 
college's textiles program >; ) And if you  are going to work with 
cochineal (in bug form), buy surgical masks to filter your air or 
clothespins for your nose. The stuff is amazingly beautiful to work with 
and stinks to high heaven!

>>  Does
>>anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of these
>>materials?  I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary of
>>overpricedness and dyestuff quality.  Any good references?
>>Thanks,
>>Drea
>
>http://www.maiwa.com/
>It's in Vancouver, BC, so keep in mind that the prices are Canadian. I've 
>used some of their products before, purchased in their shop, and they seem 
>quite good.
>kris

The one thing I stay away from is extracts. For me, it detracts from the 
experiment and the two times I've used an extract, the value shift of the 
color was odd - your mileage may vary.

So what's the project Drea? >; )

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis  
--=====================_2777765==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<body>
I've mostly used a local supplier here in Sacramento called
Rumplestilskin's (sp?) or have picked up cuttings from ag studies here in
Davis. <br>
I've used Dharma Trading and been pretty happy. Their madder root is
slightly pricey but the other items are right in line price wise. Madder
root is the one item I will pay lots for when I&nbsp; find a good crop
since it varies a lot by harvest/location. So if you find a good source,
buy all you can from that one shipment. <br>
<a href="http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1893-AA.shtml" eudora="autourl">http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1893-AA.shtml</a><br><br>
At 01:42 PM 12/9/2002 -0800, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>At 04:20 PM 09/12/2002 -0500, you
wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I'm looking for a source for alum,
copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus<br>
natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.
</blockquote></blockquote><br>
Off the top of my head, add Brazilwood, Logwood, and Alkanet to your
shopping list. Those 3 dyes are less fugitive then you think. Chrome is
pretty toxic so I've done some good work with Tin but I can't remember
where I got mine. I've never seen weld or woad offered as dry stuffs for
sale. Seems that you have to grow your own or get freebies from the Ag
college's textiles program &gt;; ) And if you&nbsp; are going to work
with cochineal (in bug form), buy surgical masks to filter your air or
clothespins for your nose. The stuff is amazingly beautiful to work with
and stinks to high heaven!<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&nbsp;Does<br>
anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of
these<br>
materials?&nbsp; I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary
of<br>
overpricedness and dyestuff quality.&nbsp; Any good references?<br>
Thanks,<br>
Drea</blockquote><br>
<a href="http://www.maiwa.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.maiwa.com/</a><br>
It's in Vancouver, BC, so keep in mind that the prices are Canadian. I've
used some of their products before, purchased in their shop, and they
seem quite good.<br>
kris </blockquote><br>
The one thing I stay away from is extracts. For me, it detracts from the
experiment and the two times I've used an extract, the value shift of the
color was odd - your mileage may vary.<br><br>
So what's the project Drea? &gt;; )<br><br>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis 
</font></b></body>
</html>

--=====================_2777765==.ALT--

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Subject: [h-cost] scrapbook scissors
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:42:19 -0500
Status: RO

Fran, the scissors I have in several patterns, are made by Fiskars (sp?) and
they do work great on paper.  I tried one more simple style on a well
starched piece of lightweight cotton and it worked like old dull pinking
shears chewing at the fabric.  The fancy cutting pattern is made with a
metal piece applied over the plastic blade and is evidently not sharp or
strong enough to cut fabric.  I would be nice if they did -- would be very
pretty.

Connie Fairchild
--------------

Fran wrote:  
 These include several styles of "scrapbook
scissors," which are designed to cut fancy edges in paper.

I have never had any inclination to keep a scrapbook, and so have not
seen the scissors in person.  But what I'm wondering is, could any of
them be used to pink fabric?  
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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Heather for files then..
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 16:40:39 -0600
Status: RO

If Heather has her own server, then that's the best place for the files.   [:)]

 >From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
 >Subject: Re: [h-cost] File sharing for the group
 >To: h-costume@indra.com
 >Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:38:43 -0800 (PST)
 >Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

 >I also have unlimited space, since I have my own server.
 >People are welcome to email me photos and or web files for posting.

 >.heather.


Thanks Heather..
-- 
Linda Thompson



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec  9 18:00:23 2002
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oddball request
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:57:29 -0500
Status: RO

Lee,

If you go to computer stores they have stacks of them to give away.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Thompson-Herbert" <lee@retro.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 8:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Oddball request


>
> I've decided what I'm doing for my winter project.  Now I just need a
> couple hundred AOL CDs (or other junk CDs).  Would those of you who get
> those AOL CDs in the mail and don't intend to use them send them to *me*
> instead?  We're talking about doing an Intergalactic Cargo Cult at a
> sci-fi convention next spring.  I really, really want to make the Folkwear
> tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_ of them.  I
> figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be able to come
up
> with enough CDs to do the project.
>
> If you wish to support this silliness, you can mail your junk CDs to:
>
> Lee Thompson-Herbert
> 4600 Belfast Avenue
> Oakland, CA 94619
> USA
>
> The guy I did the collander helmet for just gave me a battered up
collander
> so I can have a Happy Helmet too.  I'm already collecting pieces for it.
> He figured I put in so much time on his costume, that he should pass along
> any promising junk he finds at the flea market.  The whole thing should be
> quite a sight if we can manage to pull it off.  We have until May to get
> everything together.
>
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com       KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 12:02:03 +1300
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleaching/lightening fabric


> >But I've had it succesfully take out all the dye from store bought silk.
It
> might also as I said before require a few extra sessions if the dye is
> particularly set.
>
> Silk is not as fast as cotton, ie the dye does cannot make such a strong
> chemical bons, therefore the best dyed silk will be easier to remove
colour
> from than the best dyed coton

I know that, but while one post in the thread may have been about cotton it
became more generalised.  Especially the email I was replying to;) If
someone was doing a search of the archives, or only happened to come across
later posts they would have thought it meant all fabrics. The thread subject
certainly doesn't specify cotton;)

michaela


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton (polished), jacquard, etc
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 23:08:36 -0000
Status: RO

Jane wrote:

> Can anyone recommend a work of reference,
> whether on-line, printed, or whatever, that would tell
> me what all these types of fabric are, how to
> recognise them, how to use them, when they were in
> use, and so on?
>
> (I suspect the only really useful reference would be
> one that came with fabric samples to feel, but that
> doesn't sound likely.)
>

Well, I can't recommend a book but I think you would learn a lot by
getting the full range of samples from Whaleys at

http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/

The samples are small, and it isn't cheap; mine cost around £20-25,
but you will get over 400 fabrics, mostly natural fibres, all
identified for you. You will also need a few days/weeks  to go through
them all properly, but I think you will be amazed at, for example,
just how unlike silk a lot of silks are:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 15:16:06 -0800
Status: RO

You know, I didn't want to hear this.  Oh well.

Thanks,

Fran

Fran

"Fairchild, Connie E." wrote:

> Fran, the scissors I have in several patterns, are made by Fiskars (sp?) and
> they do work great on paper.  I tried one more simple style on a well
> starched piece of lightweight cotton and it worked like old dull pinking
> shears chewing at the fabric.  The fancy cutting pattern is made with a
> metal piece applied over the plastic blade and is evidently not sharp or
> strong enough to cut fabric.  I would be nice if they did -- would be very
> pretty.
>
> Connie Fairchild
> --------------

---------------------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:04:38 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Christina Biles wrote:
> Fran asked:
>  Has anyone on this list tried using them, either for a
> scrapbook or costuming?
> 
> I haven't had good luck with fabric, but they will cut lightweight 
> leather.    Better yet, the hole punches that come in shapes (hearts, 
> stars, etc) will punch light leather.  I've got all the right shapes to 
> make that 'bethan leather doublet in Patterns of Fashion. 

Water-soluble fabric stabilizer (brand name "Solvy") is your friend for
things like this.  Or the "Stiff Stuff" fabric stiffener used for floral
arrangements.  I'm rapidly aquiring a whole collection of the shaped punches
myself.  I've got I think four different pairs of the fancy scissors.  The
Fiskar ones seem to be slightly better quality than the no-name ones my
mother bought.  But the main thing is that the fabric has to be stiff enough
for the scissors to cut cleanly.  I've found similar problems working with
leather punches and extremely soft leathers.  The white elk skin I have is
loverly, but it's a PITA to punch or cut cleanly.  Cowhide or latigo of the
same weight work just fine with the various heavy punches I have.

I think the last time I used Solvy was when I machine embroidered silk noil
for set of dress sleeves.  I dissolved the Solvy and soaked the fabric, then
let it dry and ironed it flat.  Easiest bit of padded satin stitching I ever
did.  After I was done with the shisha mirror embroidery that I did by hand,
I simply washed the sleeves and had nice soft fabric again.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 15:44:39 -0800 (PST)
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I am a beginner in the costuming area, and have just finished one of my first major projects ever.

This year I plan to.

Make a tudor like the one princess elizabeth wears. I have bought 8 m. of gorgous cotton brocade for 5 pounds a meter, the pattern is this acanthusleave pattern with a fruit or flower. Right now the fabric is creamcolored, and I am way too pale to wear cream, so it will be dyed dark red.

I plan to do a doublet in a quiet graygreen fake suede, with buttons of embroidery thread over a wooden core. It will be midldle class and trimmed with a lot of matte silver and beigey braided trim.

If I get the time. I would like to do a victorian, with one of those really big skirts.

I am 5'1" and have an hourglass shaped figure, so I do not look good in straight styles. I would look horrible in fashions that demands you do not have hips. I really like the elizabethans.

I do have one question. Can you use your elizabethan farthingale for any other period?. perhaps change the silhuette with laces or something?

Tania Gruning



---------------------------------
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<P>I am a beginner in the costuming area, and have just finished one of my first major projects ever.</P>
<P>This year I plan to.</P>
<P>Make a tudor like the one princess elizabeth wears. I have bought 8 m. of gorgous cotton brocade for 5 pounds a meter, the pattern is this acanthusleave pattern with a fruit or flower. Right now the fabric is creamcolored, and I am way too pale to wear cream, so it will be dyed dark red.</P>
<P>I plan to do a doublet in a quiet graygreen fake suede, with buttons of embroidery thread over a wooden core. It will be midldle class and trimmed with a lot of matte silver and beigey braided trim.</P>
<P>If I get the time. I would like to do a victorian, with one of those really big skirts.</P>
<P>I am 5'1" and have an hourglass shaped figure, so I do not look good in straight styles. I would look horrible in fashions that demands you do not have hips. I really like the elizabethans.</P>
<P>I do have one question. Can you use your elizabethan farthingale for any other period?. perhaps change the silhuette with laces or something?</P>
<P>Tania Gruning</P><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Yahoo! Mail Plus</a> - Powerful. Affordable. <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Sign up now</a>
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 18:58:46 -0500
Status: RO

(there were 20 digests in my inbox this morning!  I'm not halfway through!  But what a welcome sight!)
This may sound a bit strange, but, I'm going to be attempting to make the 1570s/80s equivalent of 'blue jeans and sweaters' (for our friends across the pond, 'blue jeans and jumpers').  Generally, what a reduced gentlewoman of the last quarter of the 16th Century (England) would be wearing at home and around her property, inasmuch as she is sufficiently 'reduced' to have very little household help, and indeed works alongside her servants in the house.  My persona in SCA (my only outlet for doing 16thC) is that of a noblewoman with an impressive pedigree but absolutely no money.  She has a modest house and small acreage (I think this situation would be correctly called 'grace-and-favor', someone please let me know) in Ewell, Surrey by the kindness of a certain royal second cousin, but it's up to her to make the place tick over.  So -- she needs 'work clothes', but those that also fit her station.  My hope is to make a set of interchangeable pieces, shifts, bodies, skirts, kir!
tles, overgowns, sleeves, etc. which are nicely tailored, but plain enough to be meant for hard wear.  (Thanks Drea, for the inspiration!)  I'm also going to work at finding or making good accessories.  
I am also awaiting (any day now) shipment of 10 yards of black and gold fabric with honeybees in a lattice print.  Since my SCA device is three gold honeybees on black, I couldn't ask for anything more.  It's a rayon brocade with a fairly smooth hand; I think it's going to need underlining with something firm, though.  I have no idea when it will get started, as that outfit will be built from the skin out starting with the handkerchief-weight linen I've been saving all this time, embroidery, a pair of bodies with bents, the whole thing.  Since I'm pretty sure I'll be beading the outer fabric of the dress itself, I may well have to use steel boning in the hoop, but I hope to get a chance to experiment with willow witheys at some point.  My general idea is something along the lines of the Hilliard Phoenix gown, but - if this makes any sense - not limited to that by making some further things to be interchangeable with it in the future (like real blackworked sleeves).  My perso!
na rationalizes having such a thing by admitting it is a New Year's gift from her cousin (one of Her old gowns), and she does need such a thing when she is called to wait upon HRM when HM is in residence at Nonsuch.  
But first - I'm taking Drea's online class, which I am very much looking forward to.  I've been invited to teach a couple of day-long smock workshops in Washington state, and in spite of the fact that I get terribly anxious about that (right up until the moment I walk in the room - then it's gone like so much mist) beforehand, I really do love to teach hands-on.  
Meagn (totally envious of many of the other projects I'm hearing about!) 
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:17:23 -0800 (PST)
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
>
> >tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_ of them.  I
> >figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be able to come up
> >with enough CDs to do the project.
> 
> AOL CDs and other 'coasters', right?

As long as they've got a shiny side, yup.  I have an idea for attaching
them like scale mail.  And using the scroll saw to cut the ones around
the neckline into the right shape.  I think I'll be using a padded cotton
foundation layer to make it hang and flow right.  I've seen vests made
with CDs without the foundation layer, and they don't move the way I want
this one to.

And Jody informs me that he wants Cadillac fins added to his helmet (instead
of Mercury's winged helmet).  Even if we don't manage to pull off the 
parade part, we'll certainly be photo-worthy yet again. ;}

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Lee, likewise if you go to national retail chains like Target, Best Buy, or 
such, you can get mass quantities of them.

Ramona

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Lee, likewise if you go to national retail chains like Target, Best Buy, or such, you can get mass quantities of them.
<BR>
<BR>Ramona</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:45:06 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


>likewise if you go to national retail chains like Target, Best Buy, or 
>such, you can get mass quantities of them.

Thanks for reminding me, folks.  I've been fairly house-bound for a while
and hadn't thought of that.  Now that I have my little wheelie cart (like
a zimmer frame with wheels and bicycle brakes), I could actually go places
on foot again.  My custom cane is very pretty, but I was starting to play
the game of "which leg hurts worse today."  And having my weight thrown
off to one side was starting to wreck my back.  Now I can walk upright
_and_ not have to carry packages.  And it has a seat, so I can _sit down_
while waiting in lines.  

Next week, I think I'll go on a quest to see how many of those AOL CDs
I can swipe up.  ;}

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 19:31:11 -0500
Status: RO

Fran, hello again.  We tried the paper liner idea and there was too much
shift between the fabric and the paper; that is why we thought something
like 'Solvy' might improve the cut.  As others have suggested, the blades do
not seem to have a longevity  if the fabric project  is of any length.
Maybe some of us should petition the industry to produce some new tools of
modern design that would be able to approximate the function of the old
ones.  I remember a past thread where repro tools for this process was
discussed.  Was it not one of the Canadian companies like Five Rivers who
had or were thinking of manufacturing pinking irons?   Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking


> Would it do any good at all to place (or baste) a piece of scrap paper
under
> the fabric while cutting?  Would this chew up the fabric less?  I'm
assuming it
> gets chewed up, since dull scissors tend to do that.
>
> Fran
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Fran, it is my understanding that these scissors are strictly paper
> > scissors.  A friend and I thought the same thing...that they would be
great
> > for pinking fabric but they do not do this job at all well.  I have been
> > going to try them on ,say, taffeta with a stabilizer fiber.  Wouldn't it
be
> > nice if the industry could imagine another use for these lovely pinking
> > patterns.  Kathleen
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 19:43:14 -0500
Status: RO



Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> Hm.  It's hard to tell with all the black and the gold trim on top, but it
> may have been accomplished using a pattern like that at
> http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f87L.html
> 
> The extra fabric for the puff is added to the underseam side, so when the
> sleeve is gathered at the top, it has an interesting puff.
> 

Thank you for the link I'm going to try it with a mockup. I'll let you
know how it works out.

Di
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Subject: [h-cost] fur use in the 18th C
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:01:03 -0500
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After a good bowl of lentil soup, I've had some new thoughts about the =
use of fur in the 18th Century and on into the next.  Who, what, where =
and when was it being used?  If wearing it on the frontier was declasse, =
and in cities like Philadelphia, Baltimore, New York, and Boston it was =
a la mode at the same time, what did make the difference?  What furs =
from this continent were fashionable and how were they used?  Cincinatti =
and St Louis seem to have been frontier metropolises before 1820's and =
they were westward goals for European travelers like Fanny Trollop  and =
others  who spend a great deal of time pointing out how the fashionable =
of these cities differ from the other civilized worlds..What was the =
attitude of other frontier areas toward the use of fur at its source  =
and the world market.?=20

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>After a good bowl of lentil soup, I've had some new =
thoughts=20
about the use of fur in the 18th Century and on into the next.&nbsp; =
Who, what,=20
where and when was it being used?&nbsp; If wearing it on the frontier =
was=20
declasse, and in cities like Philadelphia, Baltimore, New York, and =
Boston it=20
was a la mode at the same time, what did make the difference?&nbsp; What =
furs=20
from this continent were fashionable and how were they=20
used?&nbsp;&nbsp;Cincinatti and St Louis seem to have been frontier =
metropolises=20
before 1820's and they were westward goals for European travelers like =
Fanny=20
Trollop&nbsp; and others&nbsp; who spend a great deal of time pointing =
out how=20
the fashionable of these cities differ from the other civilized =
worlds..What was=20
the attitude of other frontier areas toward the use of fur at its=20
source&nbsp;&nbsp;and the world =
market.?&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:00:11 EST
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In a message dated 12/9/02 4:39:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> 
> I assume you tried taking them somewhere that can professionally
> sharpen pinking-type shears?

I did ask my sharpener guy about them and he said they were no good, they 
might be sharp enough for 1 cut or so of fabric if he sharpened them for me 
but then would need to be resharpened, said it wouldnt be worth it.

All this talk of pinking did jog a memory though, a friend told me a while 
ago that fiskars had two new FABRIC pinking shears, one with a wave pattern 
and another that was scalloped.  In searching on the web I did indeed find 
these but unfortunately none of the sites I found showed exactly what the 
pinked design looked like.  Something to look for at the next trip to the 
fabric store though - fiskars softouch fabric pinking shears in scallop and 
wave designs.

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/9/02 4:39:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR>
I assume you tried taking them somewhere that can professionally<BR>
sharpen pinking-type shears?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I did ask my sharpener guy about them and he said they were no good, they might be sharp enough for 1 cut or so of fabric if he sharpened them for me but then would need to be resharpened, said it wouldnt be worth it.<BR>
<BR>
All this talk of pinking did jog a memory though, a friend told me a while ago that fiskars had two new FABRIC pinking shears, one with a wave pattern and another that was scalloped.&nbsp; In searching on the web I did indeed find these but unfortunately none of the sites I found showed exactly what the pinked design looked like.&nbsp; Something to look for at the next trip to the fabric store though - fiskars softouch fabric pinking shears in scallop and wave designs.<BR>
<BR>
Cheers,<BR>
<BR>
Loren Dearborn<BR>
marionetta@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] pinking scissors pics
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:14:59 EST
Status: RO


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Wouldnt you know joannes website actually had pics of them?  Doh!  Anyway 
here are the links for the new fabric pinking scissors, which are on sale 
btw- $30.39 
xmas presents anyone?

click on the pics of the scissors to see a close up, design is on the edge of 
the pkg

http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=24988&PRODID=47325
http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=40924&PRODID=47324

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
Wouldnt you know joannes website actually had pics of them?&nbsp; Doh!&nbsp; Anyway here are the links for the new fabric pinking scissors, which are on sale btw- $30.39 <BR>
xmas presents anyone?<BR>
<BR>
click on the pics of the scissors to see a close up, design is on the edge of the pkg<BR>
<BR>
http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=24988&amp;PRODID=47325<BR>
http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=40924&amp;PRODID=47324<BR>
<BR>
Cheers,<BR>
<BR>
Loren Dearborn<BR>
marionetta@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 17:17:30 -0800
Status: RO

It sounds like if Fiskars would just produce scissors with the current
paper-pinking patterns in a decent quality, that would work.  I have no
attachment to the idea of a real 18th-century style tool, just the fancy edges.
They could probably even produce ones that would work for fabric _and_ paper.

If anyone does want to petition Fiskars, they'd probably be more responsive if
they were told other people wanted them in addition to costumers--larger
market.  Maybe even paper crafters would want more durable ones.

Fran

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Fran, hello again.  We tried the paper liner idea and there was too much
> shift between the fabric and the paper; that is why we thought something
> like 'Solvy' might improve the cut.  As others have suggested, the blades do
> not seem to have a longevity  if the fabric project  is of any length.
> Maybe some of us should petition the industry to produce some new tools of
> modern design that would be able to approximate the function of the old
> ones.  I remember a past thread where repro tools for this process was
> discussed.  Was it not one of the Canadian companies like Five Rivers who
> had or were thinking of manufacturing pinking irons?   Kathleen

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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 18:31:30 -0700
Status: RO

Unfortunately for big-boobed me, Napoleonic stuff *is* at my natural
waist (i.e., if I were to wear pants that actually came up to my real
waist, I'd look like Marcel Marceau.....minus the mime makeup, of
course! <g>)
--Sue

Claire Clarke wrote:
> 
> Melanie Wilson wrote:
> 

> > I hate Napoleonic empire line stuff, my boobs are way to big !
> >
> 
> I look terrible in anything that doesn't have a waist at or close to the natural
> 
> waist.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 12:36:44 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Lisa Sinervo <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
wrote: >
> Bella,
> 
> When I lived in Brisbane Spotlight had a number of
> white100% cotton
> jacquards in their upholstry section, some with 15th
> century motifs and not
> that pricey when they went on sale.  A friend dyed
> the fabric blue very
> successfully.  It might pay to have a look and see
> if they still carry the
> line.

They do. They have some available in colours. But they
have a drawback in that they are actually upholstery
weight, rather than drapery or light upholsetery. Too
heavy and slightly too stiff for a dress.


Bella

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Poly/Cotton (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 12:39:16 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO


> >I'm in Australia
> 
> Innilguard?

Holy clues Batman!! Yes, Innilgard. How did you know?
Do I know you from somewhere else? :)



Bella

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton (polished), jacquard, etc
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 12:56:24 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
wrote: 

> Can anyone recommend a work of reference, 
> whether on-line, printed, or whatever, that would
> tell 
> me what all these types of fabric are, how to 
> recognise them, how to use them, when they were in 
> use, and so on? 

You could start with the Resil Textile Dictionary
online:

<http://www.resil.com/dictionary/dictionary.htm>

Good on definitions but not so good on history,
although it does have a little on it. 

Here's another textile dictionary:
<http://www.ntgi.net/ICCF&D/silk.htm> This one is a
bit better on the history angle.

Another thing I did was to go to good museums that
have a textiles department (like the Metropolitan
Museum of Art) and browse through their online
collection. Take any fabric names you find that you
don't know and use the one of these dictionaries.
Finally you could take a trip to a large library and
look up books on the history of textiles. 


Bella

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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 18:01:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hi all, 
   Having some lengths of fabric of undetermined fiber
content, either very old or inherited,  I was hoping
for a link to a concise chart or table of how
different fibers react to being burned.
    My local JoAnn's is pretty much out of polar
fleece and restocking with summer fabrics.  They have
several nice colors of linen/rayon blend and I was
wondering how rayon acts and rayon/linen blend would
compare to linen or linen/cotton.  Having just read
through about a week's worth of posts and listened
with interest to the discussions on authenticiy I'm
posting anyway.  As much as I love good linen for
undergarments I can't line every learning project with
100% linen and a number of my projects are learning
projects.  The quilter in me has been using 100%
cotton so long I've forgotten everything I ever knew
about other fibers but figure a linen blend is a
better weight and practice fiber than a cotton for the
"mock-ups".  I do tend to take a page from some of the
ACW ladies and make my practice garment in something
wearable later, either mundanely or as a less fancy
version of the final project for a less affluent
persona.
                     Thanks in advance,
                          Cassandra

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] Chintz and stuff - long (was Polished cotton)
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 13:15:38 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: >
Jane Williams wrote:
> 
> >I'm not sure if this is the stuff you're talking
> about, 
> >but I got some cotton with one side looking sort of
> 
> >shiny from a curtain shop. "Polished" isn't a word 
> >they used but it would be descriptive.
> 
> So did I, and they called it cotton chintz. I'd
> always thought of chintz as a printed fabric, but
> these were plain.


I think "chintz" is a word that is often used
incorrectly. According to the Resil Textile Dictionary
(Online) Chintz is indeed printed:

"Name derived from the Indian word ‘chint’, meaning
coloured and variegated. Good quality printed floral
cotton furnishing fabric on a white or natural ground.
Printed designs are usually large, of flowers, birds,
etc. Is a fine, closely woven cloth, sized and
calendered in order to resist dirt. Used for curtains,
loose covers, etc., and only occasionally for clothes.
See also Glazed chintz."

Glazed Chintz:
"Chintz fabric, which has been given a resin finish,
which is more permanent and will not wash out. See
also Chintz."

Polished cotton:

"Plain weave cotton fabric, often inexpensive, that
has been calendered to give it an attractive shine.
The calendering does not survive laundering, so
garments have to be starched, unless a resin permanent
finish is added. Many weights of cotton may be
polished and used for curtains, loose covers, dresses,
etc." 

And in case you are wondering what "calendering" is:

Calendering:
"A process by which the fabric is made compact, flat
and glazed. Usually the fabric surface is not flat,
particularly in ordinary quality plain weave fabrics,
because of the round shape of the yarns and
interlacings of warp and weft at right angles to each
other. In such a fabric it is seen that whilst the
fabric may be quite regular, it is not flat.
In calendering, the fabric is passed between the
rollers of a calender machine, in which heavy rollers
rotate in contact under pressure. The yarns are
squashed into a flattened elliptical shape; the
intersections are made to close-up between the yarns.
The fabric surface becomes flat and compact. The
improved planeness of surface in turn improves the
glaze of the fabric. The calender machines can have
several rollers, some of which can be heated and
varied in speed, so that in addition to pressure a
polishing action can be exerted to increase lustre."



Bella

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test question/properties of rayon
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:35:47 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 9 Dec 2002, Cascio Michael wrote:

>     My local JoAnn's is pretty much out of polar fleece and restocking
> with summer fabrics.  They have several nice colors of linen/rayon
> blend and I was wondering how rayon acts and rayon/linen blend would
> compare to linen or linen/cotton.

If you can't get pure linen, linen/rayon is far better than linen/cotton.
It will drape more softly than either and not wrinkle as much. It will not
wear as well as linen; you can abuse linen mightily, but rayon
deteriorates with moisture and especially with sweat. But if you're gentle
in the washing (cool water, short cycle) and you aren't sweating buckets
directly into the cloth, you'll do OK. It will shrink a bit, though not as
badly as cotton. It will be cooler than linen/cotton but not as cool as
pure linen.

Rayon is of natural origin (wood pulp) and IMO closer to silk in
appearance and properties than any other non-silk fiber, the biggest
differences being the strength of the fiber (silk is very strong) and some
subtlety in the sheen. Rayon was first marketed as "artificial silk," and
for good reason.

--Robin


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From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 17:02:54 -1000 (HST)
Status: RO

> I'm looking for a source for alum, copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus
> natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.  Does
> anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of these
> materials?  I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary of
> overpricedness and dyestuff quality.  Any good references?

Drea,
	If you have any school connections, try asking a science teacher.
I'm no longer in the classroom, but I ordered my alum from a school
science supply catalog.  The prices were better than the local chemical
supply business.

	The distributor I got mine from was Frey Scientific Co.
100 Paragon Parkway
Mansfield, OH  44903
419-589-1900
http://www.freyscientific.com
You can request a catalog at http://www.freyscientific.com/catalog.jsp

	They also have an online catalog but you have to register to use
it.

--annora


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oddball request
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 19:32:38 -0800
Status: RO

Actually Lee, if you don't mind dealing with rebates, you can get them at
Best Buy in units of 100 for $5 after the rebate.  The rebates are a pain,
but....  Anyway, it's a solution if you come up short with the computer
geeks. TNew cds also have the advantage of being without any surface
painting or decoration.  Blue-ish on the one side and silver on the other.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"I have no other but a woman's reason:
I think him so, because I think him so."
Two Gentlemen of Verona, Act I, Sc. I - W. Shakespeare






----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Thompson-Herbert" <lee@retro.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 5:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Oddball request


>
> I've decided what I'm doing for my winter project.  Now I just need a
> couple hundred AOL CDs (or other junk CDs).  Would those of you who get
> those AOL CDs in the mail and don't intend to use them send them to *me*
> instead?  We're talking about doing an Intergalactic Cargo Cult at a
> sci-fi convention next spring.  I really, really want to make the Folkwear
> tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_ of them.  I
> figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be able to come
up
> with enough CDs to do the project.
>
> If you wish to support this silliness, you can mail your junk CDs to:
>
> Lee Thompson-Herbert
> 4600 Belfast Avenue
> Oakland, CA 94619
> USA
>
> The guy I did the collander helmet for just gave me a battered up
collander
> so I can have a Happy Helmet too.  I'm already collecting pieces for it.
> He figured I put in so much time on his costume, that he should pass along
> any promising junk he finds at the flea market.  The whole thing should be
> quite a sight if we can manage to pull it off.  We have until May to get
> everything together.
>
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com       KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 20:42:09 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, Drea.  We've got a couple of *very* serious natural dyers in my
local SCA group....I'll ask them for recommendations.  I know one gal
(Lexie) has gotten some lovely stuff from England (her "customs" stories
are pretty funny, too).  She's used everything you listed below except,
perhaps, copperas (that one, I'm not sure on).
One of our "dreams" is to find a usable pot big enough to do
dress-yardage in....I'd love to have a fitted gown or flemish done with
naturally-dyed wool....*sigh*
--Maire

Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for a source for alum, copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus
> natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.  Does
> anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of these
> materials?  I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary of
> overpricedness and dyestuff quality.  Any good references?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test question/properties of rayon
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 14:51:13 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Hi all, 
>    Having some lengths of fabric of undetermined
> fiber
> content, either very old or inherited,  I was hoping
> for a link to a concise chart or table of how
> different fibers react to being burned.


Here you go:

<http://www.fabriclink.com/Burntest.html>
<http://www.fabrics.net/fabricsr.asp>



Bella


http://greetings.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Greetings
- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Extant 14th century coloured linen scan online
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:49:12 -0800
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 7:31 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 14th century colored linen?


> Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> <<  but I happen to know a bit about the existance
> of 14th century coloured linen >>
>
> Oh goodie, where?  I've been searching like crazy for the last year for
evidence of this and evidence that colored linen was used to make clothing
and I've had no hits.  I would love to see what you have on this.  Will you
please share your source on this?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Colleen
>


Colleen,

I know a bit about colored linen from the fourteenth century, extant
threads, block printed fabric (quite possibly for garments). But before I go
on, I want to clarify that my statement was that I knew a bit about coloured
linen IN GENERAL.  This was the original confusion that occurred when I
first offered my knowledge on this list.  (I had asked a few questions
before which were kindly answered.)   Someone, under the impression from
previous discussion I was not privy to as it was  prior to my subscribing to
this list,  seemed to come to the conclusion that linen was never dyed prior
to, say the 16th century, if my memory recalls correctly and asked if linen
was ever dyed before this time.   I gave a number of examples of coloured
linen from the 14th century and earlier and received responses questioning
my research and evidence, responses that were somewhat silly if the question
was "did coloured linen exist?", but very enlightening responses to the
question of whether linen was used or not for outer garments.  Hence my
statement that I thought the comments I received were reflections of ......
well, you know what I wrote.  It was only that I was judging them as
responses to examples of general evidence of coloured linen and not to the
specific use of coloured linen for
clothing.  I was quite busy that night and not paying too much attention to
all the threads relating to the subject.

Still my tendency to believe that coloured linen was used at least sometimes
for clothing is based
upon a few items I have come across (lots of thread mostly so linen was
dyed).  It is not something I have done any in depth research on or stake a
claim to.  But there is a fragment of linen in "The Book of Costume" Volume
1 page 228, item 634 that has been block printed in green in a pattern
Mullion pattern which according to M. Dupont-Aubervill in his 1877 book
Classic Textile Designs was a common pattern for costume in the 14th, 15th
and 16th centuries.  He states  "It may be traced in the costumes of persons
of distinction, painted by the master enamellers of Limoges, on the
tapestries of various Flemish looms, and in the works of the first unknown
masters of the Siena and Florentine schools."

I have not done the research into this area that Heather and Robin have
done, in fact it never occurred to me before to consider the issue, but I
did print some gold linen with burgandy silk screen fabric paint using the
pattern found in the Davenport book and combined it with solid burgandy
linen to make a very lovely parti-coloured gothic fitted dress (tm) (I like
that one!).  Would I do that again???  Not so sure now. Probably but not for
a noble but maybe for someone lower class.  Knowledge can be such a
curse!!!!  But then, it may be a wall hanging, curtains, but it is a motif
used on
garments.......will see what else I come across.

Most of the reading I have done since the Coloured Linen posts would lead me
to believe that linen was not typically used.  The whiteness of linen was
the only time I found the value of linen being discussed.  I liked a comment
from "Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory" by Ann Rosalind
Jones and Peter Stallybrass where they quote from Les Evangiles that "Flax
left on a distaff from Saturday to Monday will never make pure white cloth,
which is why German women's linen is never as white as Frenchwomen's.

I have copied the Davenport page, the text from the Classic Textile Design
book and the examples of other known (well to Dupont-Auberville anyway)
mullion patterns and have placed it on my webpage.  I don't have a web site
yet, but I do have a web page so if you want to have a look, go to
www.ThreadneedleSt.com and scroll down to see the scans.  It will probably
take time to load.  Sorry but that is the best I can do at the moment.

Hope this helps!  And any comments either way I would be most interested in
hearing from anyone.

Cheers!

Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com









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From: Jennifer Geard <geard@verso.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 18:04:56 +1300
Status: RO

Hi Maire,

> One of our "dreams" is to find a usable pot big enough to do
> dress-yardage in....I'd love to have a fitted gown or flemish done
> with naturally-dyed wool....*sigh*

Would that mean anything to you if I suggested using a "copper"? It's 
the New Zealand name for a large copper tub -- either fire-powered or 
with an electric element -- used for washing/boiling clothes in the 
days before washing machines. They've mostly been scrapped or used as 
planters here, but you can still find them occasionally in a back shed. 
You do need to factor into your colour expectations that you're using a 
copper vessel: this seems to affect colours like a very mild copper 
mordant.

I've used an old electric copper to dye a dress-length. It was hard work 
and came out slightly uneven despite my stirring, but for some years 
one of my recreation dresses was dyed with broad-bean husks, which I 
think you might call fava beans -- the ones you find in viking-age 
digs. My woad experiments were exiled to the garden by mutual agreement 
with my housemates, but they still tell stories about the time I dyed 
using "strong water" (fermented bran water) when I had a heavy cold and 
couldn't tell that my airing of the house had not been wholly 
successful. The house apparently smelled as though someone had vomited 
through it, with a distinct tang of stomach acid.

Cochineal was the first natural dyestuff I used that gave me the same 
exhaust effect you get with good synthetic dyes. I dyed some silk 
brilliant bubble-gum pink with it (I'm still working on red-shifting) 
and then threw in a piece of mordanted wool that sucked all the colour 
from the solution. They've both kept their colour well. (Logwood is 
beautiful for a short time, but the logwood-dyed skeins I bought from a 
friend lived up to logwood's reputation for being fugitive.) Birch-bark 
smelled of strong sweet tea -- definitely one of the more pleasant of 
the natural substances I dyed with -- and yielded a murky pink. I could 
only ever get walnut shells once they were dry, producing a standard 
brown tannic dye, but the wet hulls are meant to produce a black dye. 
There's also some speculation that walnut dye had anti-bacterial 
properties, and was favoured for viking-age undergarments for this 
reason.

One option I did ponder was pit dyeing, where you heat the liquid in a 
large dye vessel (or pit) by dropping hot rocks into it from a nearby 
fire. It works for cooking, so it should work for dyeing, but you'd 
want to work at the ecologically gentle end of the dyeing spectrum. My 
geologist friends used to warn me against using river stones for this, 
because apparently they sometimes shatter in the heat. 

Alas, most of the home dyeing methods I've tried won't produce the 
Plictho colour palette: I was doing Anglo-Scandinavian research back 
then. While it would be lovely to once again have dyed all my gear 
myself, the more I got into it the more I decided that a lot of the 
better late-period dyes were both complex and noxious, and that I was 
happy figuring out the colours they produced so I could buy appropriate 
commercially-dyed cloth. But I'm glad I did the dyeing I did.

Cheers,
  Jennifer, AKA Signy', AKA Alys

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Subject: [h-cost] fabric swatch books
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 00:22:19 -0500
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When I clicked on the link to Amazon, I recognized the cover right off.
Last summer at Pennsic, Poison Pen Press, who merchants with me and 2 other
booksellers in the Booksellers Row tent, was carrying that.  I recalled that
she had more copies than she wanted at the end of Pennsic, so I e-mailed
her.

She has that series - the silk book lists for $35, the wool book for $45 and
the cotton book for $40 (only 1 copy of the cotton book remains).  She is
willing to offer them at a reduced price to the list members - $5 off the
list price and free shipping.  They aren't written up on her web site, so
e-mail her at devra@aol.com if you are interested.
Janet
Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http:/www.medievalbookstore.com 

> Can anyone recommend a work of reference, whether on-line, printed, or
whatever, that would tell me what all these types of fabric are, how to
recognize them, how to use them, when they were in use, and so on?
> 
> (I suspect the only really useful reference would be one that came with
fabric samples to feel, but that doesn't sound likely.)

I've actually heard of such a book. It was mentioned on this list a couple
years back. I believe this is it:

All About Silk: A Fabric Dictionary & Swatchbook (Fabric Reference Series,
Volume 1)
It's part of a series; there's a wool book and a cotton book too. At $35 a
pop, it's maybe a little much to spend to buy the whole line, but a cool
thought nonetheless. The Amazon reviews are useful. If the person who
recommended this to the list originally is still on the list, perhaps s/he
will add some more concrete information.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 00:32:27 2002
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oddball request
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:55:41 -0500
Status: RO

Lee, you should ask your mailman to save them for you. If he's like my
letter-carrier BF, he will be happy to. Every day letter carriers across
America are tossing these things in the garbage and complaining loudly
about it. Before anybody gets the wrong idea, the ones getting tossed
are only the ones that have been addressed to houses where there is no
one living there at the present time, or have the wrong name on them.
Since they are bulk mail, they are not forwarded to new addresses when
the occupants move. If it's addressed to you and you haven't recently
moved, you will get it, don't worry! Just yesterday I got 2 in the mail,
in those plastics-sucking hard cases no less! 

Linda

> 
> I've decided what I'm doing for my winter project.  Now I just need a 
> couple hundred AOL CDs (or other junk CDs).  Would those of you who
get
> those AOL CDs in the mail and don't intend to use them send them to
*me*
> instead?  We're talking about doing an Intergalactic Cargo Cult at a
> sci-fi convention next spring.  I really, really want to make the
Folkwear
> tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_ of them.
I
> figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be able to
come up
> with enough CDs to do the project.  
> 
> If you wish to support this silliness, you can mail your junk CDs to:
> 
> Lee Thompson-Herbert
> 4600 Belfast Avenue
> Oakland, CA 94619
> USA



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 01:17:33 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Oddball picture
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 22:08:55 -0800
Status: RO

there is a picture on e-bay at 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1923138964

this is a picture of exactly what I look like when I sew.  I am sure it is 
a portrait of many of us costumers.  Ignore the item that is for sale.  I 
am talking about the picture of the woman with her trusty sewing 
machine.  maryann


At 05:46 AM 12/9/2002 -0800, you wrote:

>I've decided what I'm doing for my winter project.  Now I just need a
>couple hundred AOL CDs (or other junk CDs).  Would those of you who get
>those AOL CDs in the mail and don't intend to use them send them to *me*
>instead?  We're talking about doing an Intergalactic Cargo Cult at a
>sci-fi convention next spring.  I really, really want to make the Folkwear
>tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_ of them.  I
>figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be able to come up
>with enough CDs to do the project.
>
>If you wish to support this silliness, you can mail your junk CDs to:
>
>Lee Thompson-Herbert
>4600 Belfast Avenue
>Oakland, CA 94619
>USA
>
>The guy I did the collander helmet for just gave me a battered up collander
>so I can have a Happy Helmet too.  I'm already collecting pieces for it.
>He figured I put in so much time on his costume, that he should pass along
>any promising junk he finds at the flea market.  The whole thing should be
>quite a sight if we can manage to pull it off.  We have until May to get
>everything together.
>
>Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com           KoX 1995, SP4
>Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
>Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
>"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 02:01:33 2002
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References: <197.11e48065.2b262987@aol.com> <3DF4DEEC.1EC0BE79@lavoltapress.com> <002f01c29fcb$89c287c0$765183d1@rmitchellras> <3DF5136E.F5A0BD@lavoltapress.com> <002201c29fe3$71a18ac0$6f5183d1@rmitchellras> <3DF540AA.904CB915@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 23:05:23 -0800
Status: RO

Fran

You may wish to try a rotary tool with a pinking blade. It's my current m.o.
when I'm doing unfinished costume edges.  I believe many of the blades made
are designed for paper, but they begin razor sharp and against a mat, dull
less rapidly than do traditional shears.  They come in almost as many
designs as the paper variety.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design
"Let me take you a buttonhole lower."
Love's Labours Lost, V, ii - W. Shakespeare



----- Original Message -----
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking


> It sounds like if Fiskars would just produce scissors with the current
> paper-pinking patterns in a decent quality, that would work.  I have no
> attachment to the idea of a real 18th-century style tool, just the fancy
edges.
> They could probably even produce ones that would work for fabric _and_
paper.
>
> If anyone does want to petition Fiskars, they'd probably be more
responsive if
> they were told other people wanted them in addition to costumers--larger
> market.  Maybe even paper crafters would want more durable ones.
>
> Fran
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Fran, hello again.  We tried the paper liner idea and there was too much
> > shift between the fabric and the paper; that is why we thought something
> > like 'Solvy' might improve the cut.  As others have suggested, the
blades do
> > not seem to have a longevity  if the fabric project  is of any length.
> > Maybe some of us should petition the industry to produce some new tools
of
> > modern design that would be able to approximate the function of the old
> > ones.  I remember a past thread where repro tools for this process was
> > discussed.  Was it not one of the Canadian companies like Five Rivers
who
> > had or were thinking of manufacturing pinking irons?   Kathleen
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 02:52:32 2002
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 23:49:57 -0800
Status: RO

I need some advice. I have a piece of loden green wool (very dark 
turquoise green) that I need to turn into a color more appropriate to 
15th century northern Europe. Can anyone suggest what color overdye 
might have the best results?

Many thanks,
Luanne Bartholomew
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overdying question
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 08:05:18 -0000
Status: RO

>I need some advice. I have a piece of loden green wool (very dark
turquoise green) that I need to turn into a color more appropriate to
15th century northern Europe. Can anyone suggest what color overdye
might have the best results?

Hard to say without a scan picture, but I'd tend to go for a dark blue
almost navy overdye, to flatten the turq shades, that should take it to a
forest green

Mel


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 03:33:28 2002
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From: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomadmt@pacbell.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oddball request
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 00:36:20 -0800
Status: RO

Ha, you fiend!!!  I have been collecting CDs for a similar project for a
while now.  How are you planning on attaching them to whatever base?   (I
was thinking more in terms of a matador's 'traje de luz' jacket, but sleeves
are too much hassle.)

Margo Glenn-Lewis
Davis, CA

"Don't forget your bucket."
Ice Machine in the Desert - Brave Combo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Lee Thompson-Herbert
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 5:47 AM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Oddball request
>
>
>
> I've decided what I'm doing for my winter project.  Now I just need a
> couple hundred AOL CDs (or other junk CDs).  Would those of
> you who get
> those AOL CDs in the mail and don't intend to use them send
> them to *me*
> instead?  We're talking about doing an Intergalactic Cargo Cult at a
> sci-fi convention next spring.  I really, really want to make
> the Folkwear
> tibetan pannel coat using CDs.  But I obviously need a _lot_
> of them.  I
> figure if I ask all the computer geeks I can find, I may be
> able to come up
> with enough CDs to do the project.
>
> If you wish to support this silliness, you can mail your junk CDs to:
>
> Lee Thompson-Herbert
> 4600 Belfast Avenue
> Oakland, CA 94619
> USA
>
> The guy I did the collander helmet for just gave me a
> battered up collander
> so I can have a Happy Helmet too.  I'm already collecting
> pieces for it.
> He figured I put in so much time on his costume, that he
> should pass along
> any promising junk he finds at the flea market.  The whole
> thing should be
> quite a sight if we can manage to pull it off.  We have until
> May to get
> everything together.
>
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 04:45:29 2002
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 02:04:30 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


"Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomadmt@pacbell.net> wrote:
> 
> Ha, you fiend!!!  I have been collecting CDs for a similar project for a
> while now.  How are you planning on attaching them to whatever base?   (I
> was thinking more in terms of a matador's 'traje de luz' jacket, but sleeves
> are too much hassle.)

I own a drill press and a scroll saw.  And a dremel that I use for polishing
polymer clay pieces (among other things).  I plan to layer the CDs somewhat
like fish scales, so the overlap at least partially covers the hole in the
middle of the CD.  An alternate method would be to treat the CDs like giant
sequins, probably using washers and rivets to fasten them down.  Klang
the Original 21st Century Dragon was built using this method:
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/sandyglover/album1/image8.html
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/sandyglover/album4/image11.html
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/sandyglover/album5/image10.html
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/sandyglover/album5/image11.html

Klang is a hobby animal, but I've been unable to find out which morris
team Klang and Blessed Margaret work with.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 04:48:27 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queries about coifs, biggins and headrails
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 09:49:45 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Apolgies for coming into this topic rather late.  Haven't been checking my email all that
regularly at the moment due to masses of sewing to do.

As far as the terms are concerned biggin wasn't used during Elizabeth's reign is comes in sometime
during the 17th century.  I can't remember the first date it can be documented to as I don't have
the relevant research with me at the moment.  Coif seems to have been a term used for a linen cap
for both men and women and nothing more specific.  This is based on documentary evidence such as
wills and inventories during the 16th century and is applicable to England only.  

I'll have to dig around for the evidence if anyone wants any more information.

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 05:15:30 -0500
Status: RO

Please share on list!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 4:20 PM
Subject: [h-cost] dye resources?


> I'm looking for a source for alum, copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus
> natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.  Does
> anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of these
> materials?  I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary of
> overpricedness and dyestuff quality.  Any good references?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drea

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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oddball request
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 06:34:14 -0500
Status: RO

I've been saving them to make a cape- but I was planning on cutting them
into quarters, drilling a hole in each "scale" and applying them in layers
more like fish scales.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Lee Thompson-Herbert
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2002 5:05 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oddball request



"Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomadmt@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> Ha, you fiend!!!  I have been collecting CDs for a similar project for a
> while now.  How are you planning on attaching them to whatever base?   (I
> was thinking more in terms of a matador's 'traje de luz' jacket, but
sleeves
> are too much hassle.)

I own a drill press and a scroll saw.  And a dremel that I use for polishing
polymer clay pieces (among other things).  I plan to layer the CDs somewhat
like fish scales, so the overlap at least partially covers the hole in the
middle of the CD.  An alternate method would be to treat the CDs like giant
sequins, probably using washers and rivets to fasten them down.  Klang
the Original 21st Century Dragon was built using this method:
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/sandyglover/album1/image8.html
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/sandyglover/album4/image11.html
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/sandyglover/album5/image10.html
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/sandyglover/album5/image11.html

Klang is a hobby animal, but I've been unable to find out which morris
team Klang and Blessed Margaret work with.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] how many of us are there?  snaps
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:03:27 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks Claire.  I searched and searched and found a ton of stuff about
buttons, hook and eyes and more than I ever wanted to know about zippers,
but absolutely nothing about snaps.  From their construction, I figured
they had to be fairly modern.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 06:37:34 -0500
Status: RO

<<<  Would this chew up the fabric less?  I'm assuming it
gets chewed up, since dull scissors tend to do that.>>>

        It isn't so much that the scissors are dull as that they are not
designed to cut fabric.  They are not strong enough to do the job.  Good
fabric scissors need to be maintained and not just to keep them sharp,
but also to regulate the pressure the blades exert against each other. 
The plastic paper scissors blades just can't maintain enough pressure
against each other.

        Hope this makes some kind of sense.  I am up after three hours
sleep because my hip hurt so bad I couldn't sleep so probably shouldn't
be trying to think. 

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 08:52:35 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

> One of our "dreams" is to find a usable pot big enough to do
> dress-yardage in....I'd love to have a fitted gown or flemish done with
> naturally-dyed wool....*sigh*

Me too!  And what's more, I found one!  Check beer brewing suppliers.
They have vast brewing pots, in 10, 15 & even 20 gallon sizes.  Some of
them even have a tap at the bottom where you can drain the pot without
tipping it over...and some are also designed to sit over outdoor gas
stovey brewey things.  What's next on my list to find (once said brewer
friend gets me that pot) is the wooden windlass used to dye fabric
lengths in the pots.  I think I'll be making that one.

Thanks,

Drea



 > --Maire > > Drea Leed wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking for a source for alum, copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus
> > natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.  Does
> > anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of these
> > materials?  I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary of
> > overpricedness and dyestuff quality.  Any good references?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Drea
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overdying question
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 08:06:49 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 9 Dec 2002, Luanne Bartholomew wrote:

> I need some advice. I have a piece of loden green wool (very dark
> turquoise green) that I need to turn into a color more appropriate to
> 15th century northern Europe. Can anyone suggest what color overdye
> might have the best results?

Here's where one of my weak areas shows. What's wrong with the color you
have? I have a package of samples from a dyer who specializes in
replicating medieval methods, and there are greenish hues in the indigos.

I have a pile of wool in a blue shade with a touch of green to it - the
store called it "mallard," and it's just that shade from a duck's plumage.
It's quite close to several of my indigo samples (they may have been
overdyed with some weld or vice versa, I'm not sure). I've used a bunch
for a 15th century man's cote (though not for someone who needs strict
authenticity) and was thinking of using the rest for a fitted dress. If
there's some reason this color's off, I do want to know before I cut into
it!

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Press-studs
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 14:03:24 GMT
Status: RO

Did a bit of Googling on this one.

http://www.bookitprogram.com/archives/01-02/bibliography/timeline.asp

suggests that the press-stud was invented in 1886 by someone called Pierre-Albert Raymond.

But I can't find anything else about him :(

Hope that helps at least a little ?




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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queries about coifs, biggins and headrails
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 14:03:29 +0000
Status: RO

I've just checked the OED, which gives the earliest use of "Byggen" for a baby's bonnet as 1530, thought most of its references are 17th century.
It also defines "head-rail" as a modernisatiion of a Saxon term. However, C.W. and P. Cunnington state that a headrail in the early 17c was a square of fabric with one corner turned under and pinned on the top of the head, with the rest hanging down the back.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk 12/10/02 09:49am >>>
Apolgies for coming into this topic rather late.  Haven't been checking my email all that
regularly at the moment due to masses of sewing to do.

As far as the terms are concerned biggin wasn't used during Elizabeth's reign is comes in sometime
during the 17th century.  I can't remember the first date it can be documented to as I don't have
the relevant research with me at the moment.  Coif seems to have been a term used for a linen cap
for both men and women and nothing more specific.  This is based on documentary evidence such as
wills and inventories during the 16th century and is applicable to England only.  

I'll have to dig around for the evidence if anyone wants any more information.

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/ 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overdying question
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 14:22:41 -0000
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>I have a pile of wool in a blue shade with a touch of green to it - the
store called it "mallard," and it's just that shade from a duck's plumage.


Grenish blue for a mallard is not turq, it is the turquoise that is the
potential problem I think

Mel
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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AlbertCat wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> Of course anything can have a pinked edge. It's not just a sewing term. 
>Y'know the flowers "Cottage pinks" do indeed come in pink, but are named >for the pinked edge of the petals.

And I understand the colour pink was named after the flower.



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In a message dated 12/10/2002 2:36:47 AM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Just yesterday I got 2 in the mail,
> in those plastics-sucking hard cases no less!
I save all the bad dics for a nieghbors Aunt.  She paints pictures on them, 
landscapes mainly, and sells them.  They are pretty pictures.  I save the 
cases for myself incase I need to mail a cd to someone.  
I know in the last couple of years someone was doing a project out cd's.  I 
never did see a picture of the finished project.  When you guy's do the odd 
projects like this please post a picture of it when it is done?  I would like 
to see it.  I can just see it now, in 20 years a school kid will be doing a 
project for school where he gets assigned to find all these cd's and recreate 
your masterpiece.  
Kelly

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/10/2002 2:36:47 AM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Just yesterday I got 2 in the mail,<BR>
in those plastics-sucking hard cases no less!</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
I save all the bad dics for a nieghbors Aunt.&nbsp; She paints pictures on them, landscapes mainly, and sells them.&nbsp; They are pretty pictures.&nbsp; I save the cases for myself incase I need to mail a cd to someone.&nbsp; <BR>
I know in the last couple of years someone was doing a project out cd's.&nbsp; I never did see a picture of the finished project.&nbsp; When you guy's do the odd projects like this please post a picture of it when it is done?&nbsp; I would like to see it.&nbsp; I can just see it now, in 20 years a school kid will be doing a project for school where he gets assigned to find all these cd's and recreate your masterpiece.&nbsp; <BR>
Kelly<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions abook studies.
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 09:36:29 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Please do!  It will be really neat to see how that works out.

Thanks,

Drea


On Mon, 9 Dec 2002, Dhannti wrote:

>
>
> Drea Leed wrote:
> >
> > Hm.  It's hard to tell with all the black and the gold trim on top, but it
> > may have been accomplished using a pattern like that at
> > http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f87L.html
> >
> > The extra fabric for the puff is added to the underseam side, so when the
> > sleeve is gathered at the top, it has an interesting puff.
> >
>
> Thank you for the link I'm going to try it with a mockup. I'll let you
> know how it works out.
>
> Di
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 09:39:17 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Thanks!

Drea


On Mon, 9 Dec 2002, kris wrote:

> At 04:20 PM 09/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >I'm looking for a source for alum, copperas, cream of tartar, etc. plus
> >natural dye materials like madder, weld, cutch, and more.  Does
> >anyone on the list know of a good mailorder source for all or any of these
> >materials?  I've found some places on the web, but am a bit wary of
> >overpricedness and dyestuff quality.  Any good references?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Drea
>
>
> http://www.maiwa.com/
> It's in Vancouver, BC, so keep in mind that the prices are Canadian. I've
> used some of their products before, purchased in their shop, and they seem
> quite good.
>
> kris
>
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 09:49:37 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I've gotten enough enthused replies that I'll post the info up on a
webpage & post the URL to the list when it's up; that way I can include
the sketch of the sleeve as well.

Thanks,

Drea


On Mon, 9 Dec 2002 Gia_Gavino@attbi.com wrote:

> Oh dear!
>
> I've been so busy that I've been just deleting by subject line...and this
> subject line really caught my attention!  So, if this was mentioned in an
> email where the subject line wasn't changed, I've really missed out on some
> great info!  Rats!
>
> Whoever did the notes on 17th c paned sleeves, I'd be interested in a copy
> too!  I don't know how much or who or when, but I'm always interested in
> learning more!
>
> Gia/Giacinta
> > Please send me a copy too of the notes you took on the
> > 17c paned sleeves.  I'm going to ask Cassandra Greer
> > to send me a copy of the Munich catalog as soon as I
> > pay off the furnace repairs next week and then I want
> > to start a copy of the woman's paned doublet.  I
> > figure all those panes will be good stuck inside
> > winter work so am looking for all the info on paning I
> > can get.
> >                               Cassandra
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
> > http://mailplus.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
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> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinking scissors pics
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Marionetta@aol.com" at Dec 09, 2002 08:14:59 PM
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 06:54:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

here are the rotary blades:
http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=24911&PRODID=53404

They say they are for paper, but it's worth checking out.

.heather.

> 
> 
> --part1_d0.313fb6db.2b269a13_boundary
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> 
> 
> Wouldnt you know joannes website actually had pics of them?  Doh!  Anyway 
> here are the links for the new fabric pinking scissors, which are on sale 
> btw- $30.39 
> xmas presents anyone?
> 
> click on the pics of the scissors to see a close up, design is on the edge of 
> the pkg
> 
> http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=24988&PRODID=47325
> http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=40924&PRODID=47324
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Loren Dearborn
> marionetta@aol.com
> 
> --part1_d0.313fb6db.2b269a13_boundary
> Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> 
> <HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
> Wouldnt you know joannes website actually had pics of them?&nbsp; Doh!&nbsp; Anyway here are the links for the new fabric pinking scissors, which are on sale btw- $30.39 <BR>
> xmas presents anyone?<BR>
> <BR>
> click on the pics of the scissors to see a close up, design is on the edge of the pkg<BR>
> <BR>
> http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=24988&amp;PRODID=47325<BR>
> http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=40924&amp;PRODID=47324<BR>
> <BR>
> Cheers,<BR>
> <BR>
> Loren Dearborn<BR>
> marionetta@aol.com</FONT></HTML>
> 
> --part1_d0.313fb6db.2b269a13_boundary--
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 11:37:03 2002
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 08:37:27 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I don't know whether to be inspired or depressed for
next year's projects.

Not counting mending or UFO's here goes:

For my other half:
A set of black robes inspired by Snape
An outfit inspired by Gilderoy Lockhart's dueling
costume
A cotehardie in green and gold fleur-de-lis fabric
A black wool cotehardie
A grey herringbone wool cloak, lined in blue wool
A "wolf Shaman" outfit 
Black silk shirt
Banner with his device

For a Client:
5 "Norman" style gowns in various colours (early
1200's)
3 Pelicons for gowns, one reversible
1 Gothic Fitted Gown
1 "Irish" Gown (W/ sleeves!)
2 shirts, pairs of breeches and 1 vest
veil, wimple, and other accessories for gowns

For my 8 year old son:
Curtains and shades with appliqued griffins
A blue & green particolour cotehardie with appliqued
griffins
Armor and shield for him
Banner with his device

For my Brother and Household:
New banner
8 hoods
13 favors
5 cloaks
3 shirts
2 cotehardies
6 pairs of breeches

My personal projects:
Green velvet robe inspired by Professor McGonagal, but
with beaded cartridge pleating in the sleeves and back
A "wolf shaman" female
"Queen of Spades" and "Joker" masquerade entries
A 'corsair' style jacket
2 Gothic fitted gowns-one in aubergine wool and the
other in black (both cashmere blends)
Crazy Quilt Elizabethan from Margo's pattern (and the
underpinnings)
A vest/sash combo of a purple and metallic silky
stripe from my LA trip

3 quilts (Heraldic Terms, Vision Quest, Tree of Life)

On the bright side, I'm going to be using up a good
portion of my stash for this....the only thing I don't
currently have fabric for is the Corsair
coat...because I want a brocade or similar fabric in
black and silver, purple and black or purple and
silver. (And I haven't found any yet...not even when I
was in the LA Fashion district *sigh*)

Angharat/ wolfcat


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Subject: [h-cost] 16th c. Tailor's Book online
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 11:44:48 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

It's finally up!  The Tailor's Book of Enns (c. 1590, German) is online at
http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch

It's currently un-annotated or translated, as I haven't been able to
decipher the handwritten text very well.  I can get the basic words (Rock,
Mantl, und, mit, eln), but fall on my face with most of the others.  If
any of you know 16th c. German paleography (or know someone who does) and
could help to transcribe a page or two for me to use as a key, that'd be
brilliant. Enjoy the info, regardless.

Thanks,

Drea

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 09:11:56 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_3501718==.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 08:42 PM 12/9/2002 -0700, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>She's used everything you listed below except,
>perhaps, copperas (that one, I'm not sure on).

You can dye in a large copper pot, add copper shavings, or get copperas in 
a powder form. I recommend the later. Even if you don't overdye it, it's 
lovely to work with and by itsself produces a lovely light mint green. I 
got my last batch through the lab. Straw in Gold used to carry it **sighs**

>One of our "dreams" is to find a usable pot big enough to do
>dress-yardage in....I'd love to have a fitted gown or flemish done with
>naturally-dyed wool....*sigh*
>--Maire

As well as having a pot large enough to support the full fabric width, 
you'll need someone to make the rollers to hold the yardage as you feed and 
return across the vat.


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis

--=====================_3501718==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<body>
At 08:42 PM 12/9/2002 -0700, Sue Clemenger wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>She's used everything you listed
below except,<br>
perhaps, copperas (that one, I'm not sure on).</blockquote><br>
You can dye in a large copper pot, add copper shavings, or get copperas
in a powder form. I recommend the later. Even if you don't overdye it,
it's lovely to work with and by itsself produces a lovely light mint
green. I got my last batch through the lab. Straw in Gold used to carry
it **sighs**<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>One of our &quot;dreams&quot; is to
find a usable pot big enough to do<br>
dress-yardage in....I'd love to have a fitted gown or flemish done
with<br>
naturally-dyed wool....*sigh*<br>
--Maire</blockquote><br>
As well as having a pot large enough to support the full fabric width,
you'll need someone to make the rollers to hold the yardage as you feed
and return across the vat. <br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis <br>
</font></b></body>
</html>

--=====================_3501718==.ALT--

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test question/properties of rayon
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 12:09:57 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 12/9/2002 9:30:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:


> Rayon was first marketed as "artificial silk," and
> for good reason.
> 
> 

Rayon was, I believe, first marketed as artificial silk because the inventors 
reasoned that, if silk worms ate mulberry leaves and extruded a fiber, humans 
could do something similar.  But rayon is still cellulose after chemical 
treatment, whereas the silkworms digest cellulose and extrude a protein 
fiber.  

Rayon does drape more softly than some of the other cellulosics, and it 
absorbs moisture (hence, dyes well but also wrinkles like crazy) more so than 
the natural cellulosics.  This has to do with its molecular structure, which 
is more amorphous.  But chemically it is identical to cotton, linen, et.al., 
so you can't distinguish it by burn tests.  Microscopic examination, 
especially of cross sections, is usually a dead giveaway but extremely 
difficult to do at home, even if you have a microscope.

So you pretty much have to be trusting of the labels--usually (but not 
always) reliable at the big chain fabric stores.  More iffy at small 
independents.  Fiber content labeling is required by federal law, but some 
small outfits don't seem to be aware of it.

Ann Wass

--part1_ad.2784dc5a.2b2779e5_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/9/2002 9:30:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Rayon was first marketed as "artificial silk," and<BR>
for good reason.<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Rayon was, I believe, first marketed as artificial silk because the inventors reasoned that, if silk worms ate mulberry leaves and extruded a fiber, humans could do something similar.&nbsp; But rayon is still cellulose after chemical treatment, whereas the silkworms digest cellulose and extrude a protein fiber.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Rayon does drape more softly than some of the other cellulosics, and it absorbs moisture (hence, dyes well but also wrinkles like crazy) more so than the natural cellulosics.&nbsp; This has to do with its molecular structure, which is more amorphous.&nbsp; But chemically it is identical to cotton, linen, et.al., so you can't distinguish it by burn tests.&nbsp; Microscopic examination, especially of cross sections, is usually a dead giveaway but extremely difficult to do at home, even if you have a microscope.<BR>
<BR>
So you pretty much have to be trusting of the labels--usually (but not always) reliable at the big chain fabric stores.&nbsp; More iffy at small independents.&nbsp; Fiber content labeling is required by federal law, but some small outfits don't seem to be aware of it.<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test question/properties of rayon
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 11:50:29 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 10 Dec 2002 AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> So you pretty much have to be trusting of the labels--usually (but not
> always) reliable at the big chain fabric stores.  More iffy at small
> independents.  Fiber content labeling is required by federal law, but
> some small outfits don't seem to be aware of it.

As I work at a small fabric store (managed by someone who used to manage a
Hancock's), I can testify that in our corner of the universe, labeling
isn't reliable in either large or small shops, and it's not only because
small outfits aren't aware of it. If anything, the larger outfits have
shown less interest and care in my experience, perhaps because their
clientele is less fussy about fiber content than the people on this list.
I've seen mislabeled bolts at both JoAnn's and Hancock's and the employees
often don't know the difference or look puzzled when I ask. I've even
gotten mislabeled merchandise from Vogue Fabrics in Chicago (which
reimbursed me for the fabric when I called them and mailed it back).

It mostly depends on the supplier. A lot of what we get at our shop (often
from European designers) is mislabeled or unlabeled. For the unlabeled
ones, we do burn tests and sometimes bleach tests at the shop to identify
wools and wool blends and some silks. When it comes to distinguishing
cotton/linen/rayon or recognizing their presence in a blend, we're up a
creek, because a burn test won't show you, say, a bit of rayon in a wool
blend, at least not with certainty. We have a few good people who can do
best guesses, and we label a lot of stuff generically as "wool blend" or
"linen blend" just to be sure, even though it might be 100%. We had a lot
of merchandise labeled by a former manager as "silk" or "linen" that was a
wild-ass guess, and just plain wrong (as I found out after some burn tests
that revealed poly or other synthetics). We still find a bolt of this on
the shelf occasionally, and fix the tags, but I gather that in doing that
we're more scrupulous than most shops.

For the ones that come in already labeled, the word from the owner is to
label it as it comes, even if we suspect it's wrong, because it's not our
error. We get hundreds of bolts and can't second-guess them all. I would
guess that the larger shops have the same problems. I test what I buy, or
what I'm considering buying, and fix the tags when I find errors, but
there's a hell of a lot in the store that I'm not testing.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] coifs etc
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 18:01:54 +0000
Status: RO

Thanks for the comments and advice.
The earliest reference to bigon (yet another spelling) I have in my research 
is 1608, Rachael, but I trust the OED. The raile,rayle reference is 
brilliant Kate, thanks.

Another term that I'm finding difficult to pin down is partlett.There are 
kerchers, neckerchers headkerchers and so on but no partlett. Is this 
because it's a high class garment?

The hardest thing I'm finding in my research is that so much for the earlier 
period is in Latin. Pilum for cap appears and so does camecia for smock. Is 
there such a thing as 'Tudor and Elizabethan latin?

regards
Joy
(who is returning to the 17th century asap)

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 13:01:39 -0500
Status: RO

Thought some of you might be interested in this. The December issue of
British Archaeology (available to read online) has an informative article on
the London Waterfront excavations.  The author mentions shoes, pottery, etc
among the variety of items found.  The article primarily illustrates the
impact on learning about medieval times that this excavation has brought
about.


http://www.britarch.ac.uk/ba/ba68/feat3.shtml


Connie E. Fairchild 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs etc
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 13:16:03 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Joy,

I've seen partlets mentioned in King Henry VIII's inventories, back in
1545.  They are always mentioned with sleeves.  I'll have to double check
that, but I'm pretty sure.  In fact, there was a very interesting
reference to a knitted partlet and sleeves in Henry's inventories. I
believe the Lisle letters mention partlets as well, though I've only heard
that secondhand.  That would put it back to the 1520s/30s.

Drea

On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, Joy Shillaker wrote:

> Thanks for the comments and advice.
> The earliest reference to bigon (yet another spelling) I have in my research
> is 1608, Rachael, but I trust the OED. The raile,rayle reference is
> brilliant Kate, thanks.
>
> Another term that I'm finding difficult to pin down is partlett.There are
> kerchers, neckerchers headkerchers and so on but no partlett. Is this
> because it's a high class garment?
>
> The hardest thing I'm finding in my research is that so much for the earlier
> period is in Latin. Pilum for cap appears and so does camecia for smock. Is
> there such a thing as 'Tudor and Elizabethan latin?
>
> regards
> Joy
> (who is returning to the 17th century asap)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th c. Tailor's Book online
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--=====================_7888937==.ALT
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Excellent... I wish this manuscript was easier to come by!

The coat in this page makes up surprisingly well. 
http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch/page35.jpg
I remember years ago getting into a flame war over how it was impossible to 
do >; ) I had a student help me the translations years ago. I'll see if I 
can locate the files again.

Life's little ironies

At 11:44 AM 12/10/2002 -0500, Drea Leed wrote:
>It's finally up!  The Tailor's Book of Enns (c. 1590, German) is online at
>http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch
>
>It's currently un-annotated or translated, as I haven't been able to
>decipher the handwritten text very well.  I can get the basic words (Rock,
>Mantl, und, mit, eln), but fall on my face with most of the others.  If
>any of you know 16th c. German paleography (or know someone who does) and
>could help to transcribe a page or two for me to use as a key, that'd be
>brilliant. Enjoy the info, regardless.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Drea

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis

--=====================_7888937==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<body>
<br>
Excellent... I wish this manuscript was easier to come by!<br><br>
The coat in this page makes up surprisingly well.
<a href="http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch/page35.jpg" eudora="autourl">http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch/page35.jpg</a>
<br>
I remember years ago getting into a flame war over how it was impossible to do &gt;; ) I had a student help me the translations years ago. I'll see if I can locate the files again.<br><br>
Life's little ironies<br><br>
At 11:44 AM 12/10/2002 -0500, Drea Leed wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>It's finally up!&nbsp; The Tailor's Book of Enns (c. 1590, German) is online at<br>
<a href="http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch" eudora="autourl">http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch</a><br><br>
It's currently un-annotated or translated, as I haven't been able to<br>
decipher the handwritten text very well.&nbsp; I can get the basic words (Rock,<br>
Mantl, und, mit, eln), but fall on my face with most of the others.&nbsp; If<br>
any of you know 16th c. German paleography (or know someone who does) and<br>
could help to transcribe a page or two for me to use as a key, that'd be<br>
brilliant. Enjoy the info, regardless.<br><br>
Thanks,<br><br>
Drea</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis <br>
</font></b></body>
</html>

--=====================_7888937==.ALT--

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th c. Tailor's Book online
In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.2.20021210094657.02107fd8@blue.ucdavis.edu>
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 13:42:55 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Me too!  I've been trying to find a way to get a copy of the tailor's book
in Innsbruck for a while now too, but the stinkers at the Tiroler
Landeschaftsmuseum won't even allow pictures to be taken of it.

Thanks,

Drea


On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, Gwyn Carnegie wrote:

>
> Excellent... I wish this manuscript was easier to come by!
>
> The coat in this page makes up surprisingly well.
> http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch/page35.jpg
> I remember years ago getting into a flame war over how it was impossible to
> do >; ) I had a student help me the translations years ago. I'll see if I
> can locate the files again.
>
> Life's little ironies
>
> At 11:44 AM 12/10/2002 -0500, Drea Leed wrote:
> >It's finally up!  The Tailor's Book of Enns (c. 1590, German) is online at
> >http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch
> >
> >It's currently un-annotated or translated, as I haven't been able to
> >decipher the handwritten text very well.  I can get the basic words (Rock,
> >Mantl, und, mit, eln), but fall on my face with most of the others.  If
> >any of you know 16th c. German paleography (or know someone who does) and
> >could help to transcribe a page or two for me to use as a key, that'd be
> >brilliant. Enjoy the info, regardless.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Drea
>
> Gwyn Carnegie
> University of California at Davis
>

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th c. Tailor's Book online
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 13:44:45 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Sorry, hit "send" too soon...

That translation would be a dream come true.  Thanks SOOOOO much!

Drea
On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, Gwyn Carnegie wrote:

>
> Excellent... I wish this manuscript was easier to come by!
>
> The coat in this page makes up surprisingly well.
> http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch/page35.jpg
> I remember years ago getting into a flame war over how it was impossible to
> do >; ) I had a student help me the translations years ago. I'll see if I
> can locate the files again.
>
> Life's little ironies
>
> At 11:44 AM 12/10/2002 -0500, Drea Leed wrote:
> >It's finally up!  The Tailor's Book of Enns (c. 1590, German) is online at
> >http://costume.dm.net/schnittbuch
> >
> >It's currently un-annotated or translated, as I haven't been able to
> >decipher the handwritten text very well.  I can get the basic words (Rock,
> >Mantl, und, mit, eln), but fall on my face with most of the others.  If
> >any of you know 16th c. German paleography (or know someone who does) and
> >could help to transcribe a page or two for me to use as a key, that'd be
> >brilliant. Enjoy the info, regardless.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Drea
>
> Gwyn Carnegie
> University of California at Davis
>

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 13:47:13 -0500
Status: RO

        What an interesting list.  I had to print it all out for future
reference.  Thanks for sharing!!!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 14:25:28 -0500
Status: RO



Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> I've gotten enough enthused replies that I'll post the info up on a
> webpage & post the URL to the list when it's up; that way I can include
> the sketch of the sleeve as well.


Thats great! Thank you.
Di
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 14:32:16 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20021209084716.858.qmail@web13309.mail.yahoo.com> <3DF49A7F.C4595B59@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] georgian painted fabric
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:32:42 +0100
Status: RO

Oh yes, i did safe every picture, and it could be inspiration for some other
embroidered things.
Lovely!

Bjarne

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] georgian painted fabric


> What a shame....if it were in better shape, I can just *see* Bjarne
> buying it for something....somehow, those flowers really reminded me of
> the embroidery he does sometimes!
> --sue
>
> N Kipar wrote:
> >
> >  --- MaryAnn Jones <mabse@attbi.com> wrote: > there is fabric on e-bay
that
> > says it is 1750s.  Is this even possible?
> > >
> > >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=927744232&category=2222
> >
> > Yes I think it very well is, and I know that the seller has been selling
a lot
> > of stunning antiques in the past year. BUT I would never ever buy this
piece of
> > silk even if I had the money, the rot has set in so badly that it has
already
> > holes: once silk has started to rot there is nothing one can do other
than
> > slowing the process: it WILL rot no matter.
> >
> > Nicole
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Italian article on costume
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 13:58:03 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


One of my librarian friends refers me to this. I have no idea what it's
about, as I don't read Italian!

Paolo Peri, "Il costume nella festa," in Patrimonium in festa, ed. A. 
Modigliani (Viterbo, 2000).

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 14:52:37 2002
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinking scissors pics
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 11:41:58 -0800
Status: RO

> here are the rotary blades:
> http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=24911&PRODID=53404
> 
> They say they are for paper, but it's worth checking out.
> 
> .heather.

I've used these to pink the edges of faille to get that mid18th C 
edge you see in so many of the extant dresses. However, they seem to 
wear out very quickly.

I've also tried the scissors meant for doing scrapbooks (paper.) They 
work ok for the first few cuts on the fabric, but then they just drag 
it through (even though they were brand new when they started.) 
Frankly, they don't work all that well for paper either (which I 
found out doing scrapbook stuff).

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 16th c. Tailor's Book online
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 16:11:21 -0700
Status: RO

Wow-Thank you!!

Sg



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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 11:28:44 -0800
Status: RO

At 2:04 AM -0800 12/10/02, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
>"Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomadmt@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>
>>  Ha, you fiend!!!  I have been collecting CDs for a similar project for a
>>  while now.  How are you planning on attaching them to whatever base?   (I
>>  was thinking more in terms of a matador's 'traje de luz' jacket, but sleeves
>>  are too much hassle.)
>
>I own a drill press and a scroll saw.  And a dremel that I use for polishing
>polymer clay pieces (among other things).  I plan to layer the CDs somewhat
>like fish scales, so the overlap at least partially covers the hole in the
>middle of the CD.


Lee, since your address is in Oakland, I'm wondering if you've seen 
the car with CD fish-scales that I spotted on San Pablo Blvd once? 
(It may, however, have been an out-of-towner that was around for an 
"art cars" weekend.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: [h-cost] Difference between Gollers;Caplets, and Partlets was: Cranach's Portrait of a woman 1522-better picture anyone?
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 16:30:04 -0700
Status: RO

This is how I would differentiate them, though some may differ with my
opinion.  
It is my understanding that both originate in the Netherlands and
Germany.  I haven't documented any of my sources yet. I am just going on
memory here.

The partlet is tied under the armpits on the outside or tucked in.
Other than a fancy lace one (on Drea's site?) I don't think there are
any other extant examples.  Some supposedly had sleeves.  My Hunisett is
on loan, but as I recall she has several examples which tie around the
waist-(I may be remembering a chemisett)


The goller and caplet sit on the outside of the gown.  Huge variety here
in fit, collar styles, fullness etc.  I am working on a hand out for the
class I will be teaching-I'll get it on my website sometime after
February.

Sg


>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Jean Waddie
>Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 12:57 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach's Portrait of a woman 1522-better picture
anyone?
>
>Is a goller/caplet a similar thing to a partlet?
>
>Jean

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 10 19:52:40 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian article on costume
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 11:53:39 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> 
> One of my librarian friends refers me to this. I
> have no idea what it's
> about, as I don't read Italian!
> 
> Paolo Peri, "Il costume nella festa," in Patrimonium
> in festa, ed. A. 
> Modigliani (Viterbo, 2000).


It's something like "festival customs", I think. Is
this an article or book?


Bella

http://greetings.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Greetings
- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Jennifer Geard <geard@verso.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 21:31:00 -0500
Status: RO

On Tuesday 10 December 2002 12:04 am, Jennifer Geard wrote:

[text cut here]

> I could
> only ever get walnut shells once they were dry, producing a standard
> brown tannic dye, but the wet hulls are meant to produce a black dye.
> There's also some speculation that walnut dye had anti-bacterial
> properties, and was favoured for viking-age undergarments for this
> reason.


Really?  So the Vikings favored black/brown anti-bacterial underwear?   :-)

Seriously, if and when you get time, I would really appreciate it if you could 
please send me whatever information you have about the sources of the 
speculation you've referred to above.  Thanks.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:30:34 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:18 PM 12/8/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>So many original garments from the 1800s are lined with the same tan 
>glazed cotton.  Where does one get this stuff nowadays?  Alternatively, 
>can the glazing process be duplicated at home?  Does the glazed-ness 
>survive the washing machine?
>
>Kayta

That's the polished cotton or chintz I was looking for.  The home dec 
department, apparently!  If I come across any on the web, I'll post links 
:)  Thanks, folks, for all the help!

-- Mara

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References: <200212072313.12486.cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] linen cloak, was next years projekts.
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:41:38 -0500
Status: RO

I can think of one problem with this -- if it snows, the linen will get 
wet, of course, and damp.  Wool repels water somewhat and you'll be able to 
brush most of the snow off, and even when wool gets wet it still keeps you 
warm.  If you want some good deals on wool, trimfabrics.com usually has a 
good selection, and Phoenix Textiles (I don't have the URL handy, but you 
can search) is often a good source, too.  I read the rest of your post 
about wool, but really, a cloak, since it's not close-fitting, shouldn't be 
that bad in snowy weather.  If this is really a problem, maybe you could 
make a 'fancy' cloak out of something like cotton velvet lined with satin, 
with perhaps some discreet Scotchguard (note: I have no idea if Scotchguard 
works on velvet, having not used it myself).

There are cloaks of a sort that have openings for the head like a poncho, 
but they're not Elizabethan -- I think they date from much earlier in the 
middle ages.  I think Elizabethan-style cloaks are generally a half-circle, 
but someone more well-versed on that period will have to address that.

Cheers,
Mara

At 08:52 PM 12/8/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>I also think that I need a cape since it snowed last year at the Angel's 
>Camp faire.  I have some heavy weight linen that I want to dye a dark 
>green unless the people on this group say that it can't  be that color.  I 
>bow to your experience.   It seems to me, that the best arrangement would 
>be to make something that is closed all the way around and only opens at 
>the top.  Is that impossibly not period?

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:13:41 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:08 PM 12/8/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I just had to give a wry laugh, because I just sent a note to the list 
>about the publishing of my first book (er, booklet; how big does something 
>have to be to be a book?  This is 54 pages...)  So I'm going to be a 
>little defensive here.

Sorry for the very defensive and silly post, folks, I was having one of 
those days...  I must be a bit short on my chocolate intake :)

-- Mara



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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:07:41 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:23 AM 12/9/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Thank you Mara for responding to my post.  The Eighteenth century house is
>the 1790s. (The David Bradford House, homestead of one of the leaders of the
>Whiskey Rebellion)

Ah, I see...

>I have the reference book you have suggested and we have
>some of the longer cloaks.  Some of the women are complaining that even with
>the hood up they do not feel warm enough...especially when they are not used
>to keeping anything on their heads even if it is tied on. I've finally
>gotten them to come to terms with house caps.  I agree that the knitted
>hoods are too late but am still curious as to weather their ilk might have
>been thought of in this period.

How about bonnets?  Kannik's Korner has a bonnet pattern that can be made 
out of various materials, from silk taffeta to linen, and I think that 
black or dark green wool bonnets might work for your purposes.

I made myself a bonnet (I didn't use Kannik's pattern, just made myself a 
pattern with posterboard and tissue paper, and tweaked it till it looked 
right, then used that to cut out the materials) this summer, but I bet it'd 
be a bit warmer than a plain cap for winter wear.  The brim is buckram, 
with millinery wire basted to the edge; I covered the outside with black 
taffeta (acetate, not silk, I think; but I was in a hurry and happened to 
have it in the fabric stash) and the inside with silk lining material.  The 
crown is lined with plain cotton fabric, since nobody will see that and you 
don't want it to be slippery and slide off your head.  I also don't tie the 
bonnet under my chin; I don't like the 'tunnel vision' effect, which also 
affects one's ability to hear (another reason to use buckram rather than 
posterboard for the brim).

>I have just remembered another piece in my
>'Fragments and Fragiles Bag' that might be interesting to research further.
>It is fawn colored silk, shaped somewhat like a Quaker bonnet but without
>the brim, and there is an indication that it ever had ties...at least that I
>remember. Some of it is slightly wadded with cotton fluff seen beneath the
>lining. The curtain has a 1" ruffle.

That certainly sounds promising!  I'd love to see a picture of what you're 
talking about.  Is it anything like the Kannik's Corner bonnet pattern?

>ON the same theme of warmies, What can
>I suggest for the hands?  We have gloves and fingerless gloves and mitts;
>would these be leather or knitted?  Muffs for what classes.
>Kathleen

Either leather or knitted wool gloves, or knitted mittens, would certainly 
be appropriate.  I'm not certain about how widely muffs were used at this 
period; I could ask a friend with access to the PA Gazette to do a search 
to see how many ads that brings up...  But that would be for the Philly 
area, not Pittsburgh.  My guess would be to go with fairly plain gloves.

Cheers,
Mara

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I worked for one of the big chains, too.  Only once was something clearly 
mis-labeled (a cellulosic, probably rayon, as silk--the bleach test caught 
that one!)  But I was distressed at the number of things that were not 
labeled at all.  These were usually off-the-bolt deals that were probably 
obtained from various manufacturers.  I think this is actually a gray area of 
the labeling law, although I'm not sure, and I would rather see everything 
accurately labeled.

Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I worked for one of the big chains, too.&nbsp; Only once was something clearly mis-labeled (a cellulosic, probably rayon, as silk--the bleach test caught that one!)&nbsp; But I was distressed at the number of things that were not labeled at all.&nbsp; These were usually off-the-bolt deals that were probably obtained from various manufacturers.&nbsp; I think this is actually a gray area of the labeling law, although I'm not sure, and I would rather see everything accurately labeled.<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 12/10/2002 9:12:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lindo@radix.net writes:


> The home dec 
> department, apparently! 

Sometimes you can find it with quilting fabrics, too.  I had some 90" wide 
glazed cotton (intended for quilt backs) in my stash.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/10/2002 9:12:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, lindo@radix.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">The home dec <BR>
department, apparently! </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Sometimes you can find it with quilting fabrics, too.&nbsp; I had some 90" wide glazed cotton (intended for quilt backs) in my stash.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test question/properties of rayon
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:32:41 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote: 
> I worked for one of the big chains, too.  Only once
> was something clearly 
> mis-labeled (a cellulosic, probably rayon, as
> silk--the bleach test caught 
> that one!) <snip>

Can someone please point me in the direction of
instructions/directions on how to perform the "bleach
test"? Sounds fascinating and definitely something I'd
love to learn. :)


Bella

http://greetings.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Greetings
- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:47:02 +1100
Status: RO

Ann Wass wrote : ...  Only once was something clearly 
mis-labeled (a cellulosic, probably rayon, as silk--the bleach test
caught 
that one!)  ...

Please tell me about this test. How to, what it tells you, damage?

Thanks

Annette Wilson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen cloak, was next years projekts.
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:19:12 -0800
Status: RO

This makes sense.  Not that I am afraid of snow.  Well, I am not afraid of 
snow in relationship to this cape because I am so afraid of snow that the 
chances of me going anywhere near it are slim.  However, what you say can 
just as easily be said about rain.  So it looks like it is back to 
contemplating wool.  thanks for the info.  Polartec is Elizabethan right?

maryann, who, in case there is any question, wants to assure everyone that 
that last comment was a joke.

At 07:41 PM 12/10/2002 -0500, Kevin + Mara wrote:
>I can think of one problem with this -- if it snows, the linen will get 
>wet, of course, and damp.  Wool repels water somewhat and you'll be able 
>to brush most of the snow off, and even when wool gets wet it still keeps 
>you warm.  If you want some good deals on wool, trimfabrics.com usually 
>has a good selection, and Phoenix Textiles (I don't have the URL handy, 
>but you can search) is often a good source, too.  I read the rest of your 
>post about wool, but really, a cloak, since it's not close-fitting, 
>shouldn't be that bad in snowy weather.  If this is really a problem, 
>maybe you could make a 'fancy' cloak out of something like cotton velvet 
>lined with satin, with perhaps some discreet Scotchguard (note: I have no 
>idea if Scotchguard works on velvet, having not used it myself).
>
>There are cloaks of a sort that have openings for the head like a poncho, 
>but they're not Elizabethan -- I think they date from much earlier in the 
>middle ages.  I think Elizabethan-style cloaks are generally a 
>half-circle, but someone more well-versed on that period will have to 
>address that.
>
>Cheers,
>Mara
>
>At 08:52 PM 12/8/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>>I also think that I need a cape since it snowed last year at the Angel's 
>>Camp faire.  I have some heavy weight linen that I want to dye a dark 
>>green unless the people on this group say that it can't  be that 
>>color.  I bow to your experience.   It seems to me, that the best 
>>arrangement would be to make something that is closed all the way around 
>>and only opens at the top.  Is that impossibly not period?
>
>Kevin + Mara Riley
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:33:37 -0500
Status: RO

<engaging de-lurking device>

Well, for next year I should be in a HOUSE with a sewing room.  That's one
requirement for the house for both me and hubby...he's as bad or worse than
me about fabric stashing and has more expensive taste in fabric too.  I
swear he can smell silk across a crowded fabric store and pick out the ONE
bolt in a shelf of polyester 100% of the time.  And you haven't lived till
you've seen a 6' guy standing next to some lovely ethnic printed, beaded
fabric, saying "But honey, it'd make a PERFECT del for me.  And it's only
$46/yard. It's on SALE!!!".
And his sewing machine, named Baby, I'm not allowed to use.  He wants enough
sewing room that all 11 machines can be set up at once so we can do "stitch
and bitch" for our SCA household easily.  And at least 2 8' cutting tables.
We're talking BIG sewing room here...I think he'd prefer to use the living
room if it's the biggest room in the house.

We're finally getting rid of all the "old" SCA stuff and building
persona-appropriate garb, which means Spanish surcotes for me, with proper
gowns underneath, and one Elizabethan just for giggles, and the 22-yard
cotton velvet circular houppe I have cut out already.  (and I'm only 5'1"
and a size 12...I probably won't be able to walk from the weight!)  And
"camp garb" for Gulf Wars, because I've been told the red mud will stain
everything I wear...

Hubby has decided on 12th century Mongol and has ordered 150 yards of
different-weight silk from Dharma (without my knowledge...it was a SURPRISE!
though he used MY credit card...) as well as collecting half a dozen
brocades, and wants to make us both boots, and turnshoes, and pattens for
me.

And various and sundry other "little" projects, including his brew kitchen
so he doesnt' have to share with me, and his forge, and my dyeing stuff, and
both our leather stuff, and my loom and spindles, and...

Jeanne
we need a BIG house.  For 2 people, 7 parrots (one goes to events with me
and tells everyone he's a falcon...he had a persona before I did), Nova the
Wonder Kitty, and Pandora the boa constrictor.  It was easier when all I had
were children...

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 00:01:15 -0500
Status: RO


At the garden club Christmas luncheon, the lady sitting next to me asked me
how many children I have.
When I said "None", she said "But what you need such a big house for?"

(answer: 5 cats, a sewing room, a library room, a computer room, a guest
room (in an old Victorian house, some of these rooms are rather small), an
attic to store camping equipment, a living room to sort through book orders
when they first arrive, a basement workshop for armour repair, etc.)

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http:/www.medievalbookstore.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:17:42 -0700
Status: RO

*snort*
We have one, count'em one, fabric store in this town, and it's a JoAnn's
currently about 3 quarters full of holiday schtick, kiddy candy cr@p,
and polar fleece.  There *is* no drapery department! <g>
I'd probably have to go to Spokane (3 hours away in good weather, over
the Rocky Mountains and 2 state lines), or Billings (6? hours
away...same state, but even more Rocky Mountains), or Great Falls (3?
hours away, more passes).
I do keep my eyes open, when traveling and we get to a fabric store, but
I'm thinking my best bet would an internet source....
--Sue, from a town smack in the middle of....the Rocky Mountains (which,
for those of you not familiar with western US geography, puts 200 miles
of mountains to the left and right of me, and a continent's worth to the
north and south! <g>)
(yes, that means that shopping opportunities stink! ;-P)

Linda Krecker-Schkred wrote:
> 
> If by glazing you mean a shiny surface, then that's right. The
> manufacturer feeds the fabric under a large roller while on a large
> flat table like thing. They apply pressure with the roller and high
> heat to give the fabric any sort of surface treatment either a shiny
> surface as in glazing or a embossed pattern, (some modern fabrics
> have this recently).
> 
> To replicate this try going to your fabric store's drapery department
> and looking at the drapery lining. Its 100% cotton and has a shiny
> surface. I've used it for lining dresses and it works nicely. It may
> be what you are looking for.
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: next years projects.
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:32:03 -0800
Status: RO

I'm in for quite a bit of sock knitting -- five Christmas presents 
and a pair I'm bartering for some weaving. Fortunately I _have_ 
started them, and the ones that aren't patterned go pretty fast. Also 
I have a beading project that I need to seriously work on so I can 
get it to a stage where it can be photographed for our Guild's next 
newsletter.

After that, the next priority (though that doesn't necessarily mean I 
will _work_ on it first...) is a complete set of Elizabethan 
underpinnings from the skin out. My farthingale is falling apart and 
I need all-new petticoats, shirts, caps, et cetera. These will all be 
in _linen_ since I'm in California and have learned that ordinary 
cotton broadcloth, while it may be a natural fiber, isn't nearly as 
cool as linen and tends to block breezes. The petticoats, two shirts, 
and new farthingale are cut out, since I did a Thanksgiving weekend 
"cut-out-a-thon" -- I went into work, where there are biiiiiiiiig 
empty worktables, and invited a friend to help and keep me company.

Dangling off the end of that project are (1) re-doing the skirt that 
holds my forepart, so the back part is all linen instead of cotton, 
and (2) finishing the French hood our costume mistress helped me 
construct. It needs hand stitching, lining, trim, and a veil.

If all goes well, the complement to this is that I'm working on a 
deal with a professional costumer in LA to make me a new corset and 
Elizabethan gown -- something like the one I have now, but better 
fitted, lighter in weight, and fabric that doesn't make me into a 
"walking straw magnet" which has been my recent experience wearing 
the outfit outdoors!

The other _major_ project this year is that I've promised to do a 
booklet compiling my research on medieval knitting, and after 
promising to do it a year ago, I've barely gotten started.

Minor projects include putting together several historical 
paternosters and rosaries (including a couple to try out on eBay) -- 
I mostly have the materials for those -- and also two to go to a 
charity auction.

Oh, and I've cut out a dark blue wool kirtle to put together, and if 
I can find the right fabric, I'll do a cyclas to go over it for a 
properly 13th-century outfit. I need to figure out how to do the 
headgear too.....
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coifs and me
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:38:19 -0800
Status: RO

At 4:28 PM +0000 12/7/02, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>I thought I'd combine a couple of recent threads by trying out a coif.
>Never again; I nearly had a heart attack when I looked in the mirror,
>so Heaven know's what it would do to an innocent bystander.
>Are there any particular items of costume -as opposed to entire
>ensembles- which people think are hideously unflattering on them, or
>indeed others?

Muffin caps -- especially the sort beginners make, which hang way 
down to the shoulders in back. I put one on, and everything on my 
face immediately sags along with it!
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen cloak, was next years projekts.
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:44:14 -0700
Status: RO

A good wool cloak can be a godsend in wet/snowy weather....I'd really
recommend it, if you can find it.
Although polartec and polar fleece aren't exactly pre-17th c. fabrics
(my reenactment time period being pre-17th c.),  I'll certainly cop to
using it for camping blankets and sleeping bag liners <ggg>.
It also makes nifty jammies and "tunics to throw on in the middle of the
night when you need to visit the darned port-a-john."
Also, hoods, cowls, and sox.
--sue

MaryAnn Jones wrote:
> 
> This makes sense.  Not that I am afraid of snow.  Well, I am not afraid of
> snow in relationship to this cape because I am so afraid of snow that the
> chances of me going anywhere near it are slim.  However, what you say can
> just as easily be said about rain.  So it looks like it is back to
> contemplating wool.  thanks for the info.  Polartec is Elizabethan right?
> 
> maryann, who, in case there is any question, wants to assure everyone that
> that last comment was a joke.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian article on costume
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 00:40:22 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, [iso-8859-1] Bella wrote:

> > Paolo Peri, "Il costume nella festa," in Patrimonium
> > in festa, ed. A. Modigliani (Viterbo, 2000).
> 
> It's something like "festival customs", I think. Is
> this an article or book?

Looks like an article/chapter that's part of a book. The article title
would be "Il costume nella festa," and the book title is "Patrimonium in
festa."

This arrangement is pretty common in scholarly publishing; a bunch of
scholars contribute papers under an umbrella topic that get put together
into a book, so you get something that feels like a journal, but it's in
book form. Often these books come out of a conference on some specialized
topic. Other than having that topic in common, the chapters don't relate
to each other; each stands alone.

An unfortunate amount of scholarly costume research, particularly that
with a lit or art history focus, ends up buried in books like this. For
instance, you might have a book on "Feminist Readings of 12th century
Literature" or "New Views of Anglo-Saxon Art" that has just a single paper
in it that relates to costume. It's a real pain to have to buy a whole
book (usually around $40 or more for the copy) just for the sake of the
one chapter. However, if the overall topic is about a period or culture or
medium you're interested in, you're likely to find other useful material
in the book.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test question/properties of rayon
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 00:51:46 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, [iso-8859-1] Bella wrote:

> Can someone please point me in the direction of
> instructions/directions on how to perform the "bleach test"? Sounds
> fascinating and definitely something I'd love to learn. :)

Very easy. I learned it on this list, I think. I knocked the socks off my
manager at the shop, because we had no way before this to differentiate a
pure wool from a wool-and-natural-fiber blend.

Wool and silk dissolve in bleach. Cotton, rayon, and linen do not. Do a
burn test first to identify synthetics (hard bead or plastic residue). If
you have a natural fiber, narrow it down by doing the following.

Cut a small swatch -- half an inch square, or larger if you've got
multiple types of threads (e.g. a stripe or plaid) so you can get samples
of all the threads in one swatch. Put a little bleach (maybe 1/2 inch) in
a small jar (like a baby food jar) or a glass/pyrex custard cup, and add
the swatch. I use a toothpick or plastic spoon to poke the swatch down to
it's wet through. Leave it for a few hours or overnight.

Wool will disappear completely -- the bleach will look perfectly clear.
Silk will disappear but usually leave a bit of residue. (Perhaps that's
the seracin?) Cotton, linen, and rayon will remain intact, though may lose
their color.

A blend will dissolve in parts. For instance, in a wool/rayon blend where
each thread is made of multiple fibers, the wool fibers will dissolve and
you'll end up with a tangled mess of rayon fibers. If you have a fabric
where whole threads of wool or silk are interwoven with whole threads of a
non-animal fiber, such as some plaids or checks, you can get a nice grid
pattern remaining, with empty spots in the interlacing where the animal
fiber used to be. If one fiber is warp and one is weft, you'll end up with
a row of the non-animal fibers lined up neatly in the bottom of the cup.

It's fun to watch this happening. Wool will fizz slightly, like when you
put peroxide on a cut. Check on it every little while and poke it with the
toothpick to break up the fibers if necessary; it can take a while for the
bleach to penetrate a thick fabric.

--Robin


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: multi-purpose farthingale (was Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 21:49:40 -0800
Status: RO


>I do have one question. Can you use your elizabethan farthingale for any 
>other period?. perhaps change the silhuette with laces or something?

Yes.  I only own one set of hoops, and I use them for everything.  I have 
neither space nor money for more than one set.  The hoop at the bottom is 
only about 3.5 meters around.

For Renaissance I make the top hoops smaller so the whole thing is 
cone-shaped.  For early 1850s I enlarge the top hoops so the whole thing is 
dome-shaped.  For later 1850s I insert three additional pieces of hoop wire 
into casings I otherwise don't use, and tie the hoops across the middle for 
an asymmetric shape.  Once, for 1880s, I used hoop wire in the three 
normally-unused casings, and took all the other hoop wires out, and 
tied-across what was left with the late-1850s ties, for a bustle.

Kayta

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:01:25 -0800
Status: RO


> > AOL CDs and other 'coasters', right?
>
>As long as they've got a shiny side, yup.

'Coasters', as in, failed CD-burns.  I have some of these.  BTW, if you 
ever run across the clear ones that come at the bottom of a package of 
burnable CDs, I'm collecting them for I'm not sure what yet.


Kayta

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:44:14 -0800
Status: RO


>Oh yes, i did safe every picture, and it could be inspiration for some other
>embroidered things.

Or you could give up embroidery and just paint everything (just kidding).

Kayta

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:46:31 -0800
Status: RO


>>So many original garments from the 1800s are lined with the same tan 
>>glazed cotton.  Where does one get this stuff nowadays?  Alternatively, 
>>can the glazing process be duplicated at home?  Does the glazed-ness 
>>survive the washing machine?

>>That's the polished cotton or chintz I was looking for.  The home dec 
>>department, apparently!  If I come across any on the web, I'll post links 
>>:)  Thanks, folks, for all the help!

So, glazed cotton from the 1800s is 'the same' as what we now call chintz 
or polished cotton?  I know the weight is different, but is the process the 
same?

Kayta

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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:57:35 -0800
Status: RO

Next year:

I may be doing Ren. Faires again, so I'll need new (wool) clothes and linen 
underclothes.

I hope to finish this year's Dickens' Fair dress, and all the underwear I 
have cut out for it.  Something middle-class would be nice, if I can come 
up with a character and a situation.  And Bill still needs that frock coat.

If I find a Wild West group (still looking) I will need something to wear 
with my dolman, which is the only piece of 1880s I own.

I need to finish my 1890s housedress for doing farm-demos at Ardenwood, and 
make something fancier for giving house tours there.

I may need something 1901 for Living History Day at the Hyde Street Pier, 
if they really decide to let other people play.

More clothes for Kayta, like pants and shirts and vests, and stuff like that.

More dolls/doll clothes.  Now that I have a domain name, I need a web host 
and website for them, not to mention a business license, resale number, etc.

Kayta

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To: Blackwork List <blackwork@yahoogroups.com>,
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:35:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

For anyone interested in textiles and embroidery the Hertfordshire
branch of the Embroiderers Guild is hosting a talk by Santina Levy on
Embroideries at Hardwick Hall.  Details as below:

Saturday 11 January 1.30 for 2.00
United Reformed Church
Watford Road
St Albans

Cost ~£3.50 (I think, won't be more than a pound out though).

See map for travel information.
http://www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=513546&y=204879&z=1&sv=513750,
204750&st=4&ar=Y&mapp=newmap.srf&searchp=newsearch.srf

Approaching from the M25 (South on the map)
Go over the two mini-roundabouts.  About 100 yards on from the bus-stop
you will see a set of traffic lights.  Just next to this there is a
turning on the right hand side (with gates) go up this drive to the
chruch hall and hopefully you will find somewhere to park.  The car
park fills up early for these big talks.

Contact me off list if you need more details.

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 04:35:37 2002
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Bumrolls, was Fox tails, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:35:32 +0000
Status: RO

I'm surprised that Sarah Goodman, in the article referred to by Stevie, asserts that bumrolls are a myth. The Cunnington 17th century book quotes the following from Middleton's "Women beware women" of 1628-30:
Then take her with all faults with her clothes on, and they may hide a number with a bum-roll.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> stevie.gamble@btinternet.com 12/06/02 10:14am >>>
Hi all,

I see that Sarah L. Goodman's article on Farthingales and
 Bumrolls.... at

 http://www.elizabethanlady.com/farthingales.html 

includes a reference to foxtails being worn in much earlier periods
under the gown to improve the figure, and I have come across a number
of other references to this. However, I'm still baffled as to how this
actually worked, in practise,and would welcome suggestions.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 02:05:58 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU> wrote:
> 
> Lee, since your address is in Oakland, I'm wondering if you've seen 
> the car with CD fish-scales that I spotted on San Pablo Blvd once? 
> (It may, however, have been an out-of-towner that was around for an 
> "art cars" weekend.)

You right, I think that one's an out-of-towner.  Haven't seen it.
I still bow down before the mastery of the guy who did the stained glass
volkswagon beetle.  There's also a local who's done a mosaic on her car
with the flat glass pebbles used for floral arrangements.  And the Unholy
Roller, the gothic cathedral car.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 02:32:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


I've forgotten who was doing vestiments, so this'll go out to the list
at large.  I found a supplier for embroidered crosses (some extremely
ornate), galloon, and fabric:
http://www.easternchristian.com/vestment.html

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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In a message dated 12/10/2002 9:47:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Annette.Wilson@ea.gov.au writes:


> Please tell me about this test. How to, what it tells you, damage?
> 
> 

Generally, fabrics made of protein fibers--wool or silk--will dissolve in 
chlorine bleach.  Other fibers don't.  It won't distinguish between protein 
fibers, of course, but will separate silk from rayon, for example.

Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/10/2002 9:47:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, Annette.Wilson@ea.gov.au writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Please tell me about this test. How to, what it tells you, damage?<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Generally, fabrics made of protein fibers--wool or silk--will dissolve in chlorine bleach.&nbsp; Other fibers don't.&nbsp; It won't distinguish between protein fibers, of course, but will separate silk from rayon, for example.<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 12/11/2002 12:18:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
mooncat@in-tch.com writes:


> it's a JoAnn's
> 

JoAnn's does special orders, too.  Do they have a suitable drapery fabric 
available in the special order things?
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/11/2002 12:18:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">it's a JoAnn's<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
JoAnn's does special orders, too.&nbsp; Do they have a suitable drapery fabric available in the special order things?<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:32:00 -0000
Status: RO

Kathleen wrote:


> I need to pull up my resource but I have a vague memory from
something I've
> read that trappers were on the , shall we say, lesser  end of the
class
> scale and it was not the thing to dress like them or use fur and
skins in
> the manner of  the native Americans. In the Eastern cities, at the
same
> time, wearing fur trimmings and linings seems to have been 'OK' for
women of
> fashion.

This is the reverse of your original argument:-)
 I think that you should also bear in mind that just because fur isn't
fashionable doesn't mean that people don't wear it. For example, by
the time James VI and I came to the throne the huge opulent furs of
the Tudor and early Elizabethan period- eg Katherine Parr's stupendous
lynx- were long out of fashion. However, the Venetian Ambassador,
writing in 1604, noted that in England people wore fur all of the
time, even in August, because of the dreadful weather.

best wishes
Stevie

> >
> > > This house was on the frontier, and while the family had
Baltimore
> > > connections, we feel that 'fur belows' would have been too
upper
> > class in
> > > this situation.Folk tended not to show  their wealth and tried
to
> > fit in
> > > with the style of the community, which in this case were farmers
and
> > > trappers.
> >
> > I'm sorry, but I'm not following the thread of your argument.
Surely
> > the trappers wore fur, did they not? Why would wearing fur not fit
in
> > with the style of the community?
> >
> > best wishes
> > Stevie
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Bumrolls, was Fox tails, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 07:30:50 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> I'm surprised that Sarah Goodman, in the article referred to by
> Stevie, asserts that bumrolls are a myth. The Cunnington 17th century
> book quotes the following from Middleton's "Women beware women" of
> 1628-30: Then take her with all faults with her clothes on, and they
> may hide a number with a bum-roll.

I don't recall what Sarah says in her article, but I've read it, as she's
quoted my research, and I don't recall she says that bum-rolls are a myth.
I'd have to go back and check, but she's on this list and can speak for
herself, too.

In the portion where she quotes my work, Sarah does note my assertion that
the modern vision of the "wheel" farthingale as a hooped or wired flat
frame is most likely an inaccurate assumption about what gave the "French
farthingale" style its shape. You can find some earlier threads on this
topic collected at <http://www.netherton.net/robin>. (Last time I looked,
Sarah's article linked to the h-cost archives for some of this material;
the collection at this URL has more and is easier to read.)

"Bum-roll" as a term is first recorded in 1601. It is most certainly not a
myth. However, the term has been very broadly applied by modern
re-enactors and costume historians to pre-1600 styles, on the assumption
that a roll must have been worn with them, and that the roll would have
been called a bum-roll. As far as I know, there's no evidence that the
term was used at that time. There's evidence for certain roll-shaped
structures by the late 1500s. The French farthingale was certainly a roll
-- there's plenty of written evidence for that, including dictionary
definitions from the period. But whether it was the same as the sort of
padding or structure that people called a "bum-roll" in the 1600s is in
doubt, particularly since there's at least one quote (the 1601 one) that
refers to both the French farthingale and the bum-roll and makes it clear
they're different things.

As far as I know, there's far less evidence (is there any?) that whatever
sort of padding worn with the Spanish farthingale in the mid-1500s was in
roll form or called a bum-roll. There does seem to have been some padding
from maybe the mid-1570s, when the former cone shape of the Spanish
farthingale widens slightly at the hips to create a bell shape. This is a
precursor to the more extreme widening seen in the French farthingale of
the 1580s, which is distinct from the Spanish farthingale and evidently
worn independently.


--Robin

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:40:06 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, Kevin + Mara wrote:
> Either leather or knitted wool gloves, or knitted mittens, would certainly
> be appropriate.  I'm not certain about how widely muffs were used at this
> period; I could ask a friend with access to the PA Gazette to do a search
> to see how many ads that brings up...  But that would be for the Philly
> area, not Pittsburgh.  My guess would be to go with fairly plain gloves.
>
> Cheers,
> Mara

Looking through one of my costume books today, I came across a picture of
a muff, and my friend Cindy found the following in the PA Gazette:

ITEM #917
February 8, 1732
The Pennsylvania Gazette






BOSTON, Jan. 3.

It appears by our Weekly Accounts of Burials and Baptisms, that from Jan.
4, 1730,1. to this Day, Jan. 3, 1731,2 there have been buried in this
Town, as follows,
Whites 318, Blacks 94. In all 412.
Baptised in the several Churches, 559.

Dedham, in New Eng. Jan. 5. This Day died here the famous Sam Hide,
Indian, in the 106th Year of his Age: He was well known throughout this
Province, being remarkable for his cunning Jests and uncommon Wit. He had
been a faithful Soldier to the English, having killed nineteen of the
Enemy Indians, of which he kept an Account on his Gun, and would fain have
made up the Number Twenty.
Boston, Jan. 17. The Weather has been so severe for some time past, that
our Harbour, is ful of Ice, and People walk down on it to Castle William.
Yesterday was Fortnight, one of the Meeting-Houses on Rhode-Island took
Fire, and had like to have been burnt down, but by timely Assistance it ws
extinguished. 'Tis supposed that a wooden Stove, left in a Pew, occasioned
the same.
Cambridge, in New-England, January 15. Some time since died here Mr. Matth
A---y, in a very advanced Age. He had for a great Number of Years served
the College here in the quality of Bed-maker and Sweeper. Having left no
Child, his Wife inherits his whole Estate, which he bequeathed to her by
his last Will and Testament, as followeth, viz.

1
TO my dear Wife,
My Joy and Life,
I freely now do give her
My whole Estate,
With all my Plate,
Being just about to leave her.
2
A Tub of Soap,
A long Cart Rope,
A Frying-pan and Kettle,
An Ashes Pail,
A threshing Flail,
An iron Wedge and Beetle.
3
Two painted Chairs,
Nine warden Pears,
A large old dripping-platter
The Bed of Hay
On which I lay,
An old Sauce pan for Butter.
4
A little Mugg,
A Two-quart Jugg,
A Bottle full of Brandy:
A Looking-Glass
To see your Face,
You'll find it very handy.
5
A Musket true
As ever flew,
A Pound of Shot & Wallet,
A Leather Sash,
My Calabash,
My Powder-horn & Bullets
6
An old Sword-blade,
A Garden Spade,
A Hoe, a Rake, a Ladder,
A wooden Cann,
A Close-stool Pan,
A Clyster-pipe and Bladder.
7
A greasy Hat,
My old Ram-Cat,
A Yard and half of Linen,
A Pot of Grease,
A woollen Fleece,
In order of your Spinning.
8
A small-tooth Comb,
An ashen-Broom,
A Candlestick and Hatchet,
A Coverlid
Strip'd down with Red,
A Bag of Rags to patch it.
9
A ragged Mat,
A Tub of Fat;
A Book put out by Bunyan,
Another Book
By Robin Rook;
A Skain or two of Spunyarn.
10
An old black << Muff>> ,
Some Garden Stuff,
A Quantity of Burrage,
Some Devils Weed
And Burdock Seed,
To season well your Porridge.
11
A Chafing-Dish,
With one Salt Fish,
If I am not mistaken,
A Leg of Pork,
A broken Fork,
And half a Flitch of Bacon.
12
A Spinning Wheel,
One Peck of Meal,
A Knife without a Handle,
A rusty Lamp,
Two Quarts of Samp,
A piece of Tallow-Candle.
13
My Pouch and Pipes,
Two Oxen Tripes,
An oaken Dish well carved,
My little Dog,
And sported Hog,
With two young Pigs just starved.
14
This is my Store,
I have no more,
I heartily do give it,
My Years are spun,
My Days are done,
And so I think to leave it.
----------------------
But I'm guessing that muffs (unless old, and brought from the East)
wouldn't be as common on the frontier as gloves and mittens.

By the way, Barbara Bockrath, at the Oliver Miller Homestead site near
Pittsburgh, PA has done a lot of work with inventories (both wills and
from Oliver's store) that would be very helpful to you, I'm sure -- I can
try to dig up her email address if you want, or you could call the site
and locate her that way.

-- Mara

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen cloak, was next years projekts.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:46:16 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, MaryAnn Jones wrote:
> just as easily be said about rain.  So it looks like it is back to
> contemplating wool.  thanks for the info.  Polartec is Elizabethan right?

Um, yeah!  I'm sure I've seen a Malden Mills label somewhere in my costume
books... (wink, wink) :D

Cheers,
Mara

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:55:22 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Sounds like what you need is a house with a big BASEMENT.  That was one
requirement for us when we went house-hunting four years ago.  We have a
longer commute to work than if we lived in a smaller townhouse or condo
closer to the city, but we have more space, which is worth it.

Kevin has the two-car garage as his woodworking shop, and I have one of
the upstairs bedrooms for a sewing room (I have a large cutting table,
ironing table and sewing machine set up, as well as all my costume books
along one wall), and will eventually have the basement (once we put up
the drywall, hang a ceiling and paint the floor with garage floor paint)
as a workspace with big cutting/sewing tables and lots of storage,
shelving, bookshelves, and file cabinets.  We will probably eventually put
in a guest bedroom in the basement, which means I can move the loom into
the upstairs guest room that now has the bed in it; there's a much better
view in that room, so I think I'd be more inclined to weave there than if
it were underground.  Eventually I'm going to have a deep sink and
countertop so I can do messy dyeing projects in the basement, too, instead
of the kitchen or back yard.

Ultimately I'd like to put a two-storey addition onto the back of the
house so I can have an expanded sewing room, and move the loom into the
living room, but that's WAY down the road...

-- Mara

On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, Jeanne Harney wrote:

> <engaging de-lurking device>
>
> Well, for next year I should be in a HOUSE with a sewing room.  That's one
> requirement for the house for both me and hubby...he's as bad or worse than
> me about fabric stashing and has more expensive taste in fabric too.
(snip)
> And various and sundry other "little" projects, including his brew kitchen
> so he doesnt' have to share with me, and his forge, and my dyeing stuff, and
> both our leather stuff, and my loom and spindles, and...
>
> Jeanne
> we need a BIG house.  For 2 people, 7 parrots (one goes to events with me
> and tells everyone he's a falcon...he had a persona before I did), Nova the
> Wonder Kitty, and Pandora the boa constrictor.  It was easier when all I had
> were children...
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:58:15 +0000
Status: RO

Thanks, Robin,  for this clarification. I must have misinterpreted Sarah's article as suggesting that "bum-roll" was a modern term or that they didn't exist. (One paragraph is headed "The bum-roll myth".)

> However, the term has been very broadly applied by modern
>re-enactors and costume historians to pre-1600 styles, on the assumption
>that a roll must have been worn with them, and that the roll would have
>been called a bum-roll. 



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen cloak, was next years projekts.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:59:58 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> A good wool cloak can be a godsend in wet/snowy weather....I'd really
> recommend it, if you can find it.
> Although polartec and polar fleece aren't exactly pre-17th c. fabrics
> (my reenactment time period being pre-17th c.),  I'll certainly cop to
> using it for camping blankets and sleeping bag liners <ggg>.
> It also makes nifty jammies and "tunics to throw on in the middle of the
> night when you need to visit the darned port-a-john."
> Also, hoods, cowls, and sox.
> --sue

I've recently discovered how easy polartec is to sew, and am making myself
socks out of the remnants from sewing sweaters (jumpers) out of the stuff.
Hm, a sleeping bag liner sounds like a good idea!  My sleeping bag isn't
period, anyway; I hide it under a pile of wool blankets.

Thanks for the idea,
Mara

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Subject: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 06:24:24 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Greetings!

I recently found some "wool-look" polyester &
acrylic suiting on sale at Jo-Ann's for
$3.99/yard.  I've admittedly never done any
sewing with wool, but to my non-expert eye, this
stuff looks really nice.  I'm poor, so most of my
period clothing is made from plain 100% cotton,
and it certainly would look better than that. 
I'm in the SCA, so nobody will shoot me if I'm
wearing polyester, and I'm really tempted to buy
some and make a cotehardie.  

Has anybody else made a period garment with
fabric which looks right (at least to begin
with), but is totally synthetic, and what
happened?  I have no more experience with
polyester than with wool, but I'm sure I'm not
the first person who has experienced this
temptation. I know it'll be hot, but if I plan
for it to be a cold-weather dress, I don't know
what else might go wrong.  I'd appreciate any
advice anyone can offer.

Thanks in advance,

Anne =)

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:32:32 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Having read everyone elses' projects, and become consumed with envy,
as well as deep  inferiority, I propose to throw myself off the
Millenium Bridge.
Well, at least it's historical...

best wishes
Stevie

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 06:37:45 -0800
Status: RO

I am currently working on ditigizing some renaissance lace patterns on my
Bernina Artista software.  At the moment I am working off of Federico
Vinciolo's "singuliers et nouveaus poutraicts" of 1587 - Dover has a
republication of this.  I plan to stitch the patterns out with period
threads.  The book Renaissance Lace is also finding its way to my door.  Any
other references that anyone else knows about please send my way.

Cheers,

Lisa


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:41:18 -0500
Status: RO

Hello, again.  Guess our references are working at cross purposes.  From
your previous posts I gather you are in the British Isles while I am in and
speak of rural America; particularly for the time period of the last decade
of the Eighteenth Century-.It is possible that the only woman of fashion
would have been the lady of my House in this area at that time.  We
speculate that her position would have meant that she could not go
native,-nor should she-dress in a manner that might have been understood as
flaunting her class or wealth-At this time her husband was an aspiring
lawyer. We speculate on their wealth because they built the first stone
house in Catfish Creek as the community was first named .  Her husband was a
graduate of Princeton and her family were people of note in Baltimore.If she
used fur at all, it would have most discreet, and in the democratic manner,
she probably would have continued doing   so when visiting in the big city.
Of course wearing fur trimmings in the city would not call as much attention
to herself as it would on the frontier.
 Kathleen
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods


> Kathleen wrote:
>
>
> > I need to pull up my resource but I have a vague memory from
> something I've
> > read that trappers were on the , shall we say, lesser  end of the
> class
> > scale and it was not the thing to dress like them or use fur and
> skins in
> > the manner of  the native Americans. In the Eastern cities, at the
> same
> > time, wearing fur trimmings and linings seems to have been 'OK' for
> women of
> > fashion.
>
> This is the reverse of your original argument:-)
>  I think that you should also bear in mind that just because fur isn't
> fashionable doesn't mean that people don't wear it. For example, by
> the time James VI and I came to the throne the huge opulent furs of
> the Tudor and early Elizabethan period- eg Katherine Parr's stupendous
> lynx- were long out of fashion. However, the Venetian Ambassador,
> writing in 1604, noted that in England people wore fur all of the
> time, even in August, because of the dreadful weather.
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> > >
> > > > This house was on the frontier, and while the family had
> Baltimore
> > > > connections, we feel that 'fur belows' would have been too
> upper
> > > class in
> > > > this situation.Folk tended not to show  their wealth and tried
> to
> > > fit in
> > > > with the style of the community, which in this case were farmers
> and
> > > > trappers.
> > >
> > > I'm sorry, but I'm not following the thread of your argument.
> Surely
> > > the trappers wore fur, did they not? Why would wearing fur not fit
> in
> > > with the style of the community?
> > >
> > > best wishes
> > > Stevie
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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References: <5.1.1.6.2.20021208101718.01f2eb90@saltmine.radix.net> <00b801c29f8e$7db6ce60$705183d1@rmitchellras> <003601c29f93$58a962e0$1f0124d9@dan> <000d01c29f9e$13c63080$705183d1@rmitchellras> <005a01c29fab$0298fd80$1f0124d9@dan> <005401c29fce$fb86f3c0$765183d1@rmitchellras> <04e801c2a111$4d5aafa0$581523d9@dan>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:43:34 -0500
Status: RO

Hello, again.  Guess our references are working at cross purposes.  From
your previous posts I gather you are in the British Isles while I am in and
speak of rural America; particularly for the time period of the last decade
of the Eighteenth Century-.It is possible that the only woman of fashion
would have been the lady of my House in this area at that time.  We
speculate that her position would have meant that she could not go
native,-nor should she-dress in a manner that might have been understood as
flaunting her class or wealth-At this time her husband was an aspiring
lawyer. We speculate on their wealth because they built the first stone
house in Catfish Creek as the community was first named .  Her husband was a
graduate of Princeton and her family were people of note in Baltimore.If she
used fur at all, it would have most discreet, and in the democratic manner,
she probably would have continued doing   so when visiting in the big city.
Of course wearing fur trimmings in the city would not call as much attention
to herself as it would on the frontier.
 Kathleen
rmitchell@washjeff.edu
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods


> Kathleen wrote:
>
>
> > I need to pull up my resource but I have a vague memory from
> something I've
> > read that trappers were on the , shall we say, lesser  end of the
> class
> > scale and it was not the thing to dress like them or use fur and
> skins in
> > the manner of  the native Americans. In the Eastern cities, at the
> same
> > time, wearing fur trimmings and linings seems to have been 'OK' for
> women of
> > fashion.
>
> This is the reverse of your original argument:-)
>  I think that you should also bear in mind that just because fur isn't
> fashionable doesn't mean that people don't wear it. For example, by
> the time James VI and I came to the throne the huge opulent furs of
> the Tudor and early Elizabethan period- eg Katherine Parr's stupendous
> lynx- were long out of fashion. However, the Venetian Ambassador,
> writing in 1604, noted that in England people wore fur all of the
> time, even in August, because of the dreadful weather.
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> > >
> > > > This house was on the frontier, and while the family had
> Baltimore
> > > > connections, we feel that 'fur belows' would have been too
> upper
> > > class in
> > > > this situation.Folk tended not to show  their wealth and tried
> to
> > > fit in
> > > > with the style of the community, which in this case were farmers
> and
> > > > trappers.
> > >
> > > I'm sorry, but I'm not following the thread of your argument.
> Surely
> > > the trappers wore fur, did they not? Why would wearing fur not fit
> in
> > > with the style of the community?
> > >
> > > best wishes
> > > Stevie
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > >
> >
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 07:41:12 -0700
Status: RO

I don't recall seeing one, but I'd have to look again to be sure.
I *have* used their special order department, bless it!
--sue
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:47:20 GMT
Status: RO


> On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, MaryAnn Jones wrote:
> > just as easily be said about rain.  So it looks like it is back to
> > contemplating wool.  thanks for the info.  Polartec is Elizabethan right?

Polartec is worn in Britain during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, yes....




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:39:37 EST
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In a message dated 12/11/02 7:25:48 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
montferrat@yahoo.com writes:


> Has anybody else made a period garment with
> fabric which looks right (at least to begin
> with), but is totally synthetic, and what
> happened?  

Wool: Warm, breathes, shapes beautifully with steam, shrinks, has a wonderful 
"hand".  Dyeable.  Can cost a lot of cash.

Acrylic/Polyester: Doesn't breathe, doesn't shape, doesn't shrink, has a 
"bouncy" hand, probably won't dye (the acrylic will sort of, but not the 
poly)   Also, the pills which will develop will be nearly impossible to 
remove.  Can be found really cheap.

All that said, I often am forced to use above mentioned synthetic choice due 
to monetary issues.  Or I might have an actor who is allergic to wool.  
Wool-acrylic blends can also be had cheaply and eliminate the bouncy quality 
of polyester.  But actors are usually 20 or 30 feet away or more, and I can 
get away with more than a close inspection would reveal.  And I would think 
your blend would be superior to cotton for an outer garment.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 12/11/02 7:25:48 AM Mountain Standard Time, montferrat@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Has anybody else made a period garment with<BR>
fabric which looks right (at least to begin<BR>
with), but is totally synthetic, and what<BR>
happened?&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Wool: Warm, breathes, shapes beautifully with steam, shrinks, has a wonderful "hand".&nbsp; Dyeable.&nbsp; Can cost a lot of cash.<BR>
<BR>
Acrylic/Polyester: Doesn't breathe, doesn't shape, doesn't shrink, has a "bouncy" hand, probably won't dye (the acrylic will sort of, but not the poly)&nbsp;&nbsp; Also, the pills which will develop will be nearly impossible to remove.&nbsp; Can be found really cheap.<BR>
<BR>
All that said, I often am forced to use above mentioned synthetic choice due to monetary issues.&nbsp; Or I might have an actor who is allergic to wool.&nbsp; Wool-acrylic blends can also be had cheaply and eliminate the bouncy quality of polyester.&nbsp; But actors are usually 20 or 30 feet away or more, and I can get away with more than a close inspection would reveal.&nbsp; And I would think your blend would be superior to cotton for an outer garment.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:56:15 -0500
Status: RO

Thankyou Mare for you suggestions.  When I get into the "Bag" I will
certainly share my findings.  I had not thought of the Miller Homestead
source; they are also on the "Whiskey Circuit" and Barb sometimes does
things with us.(hitting hand to head)  I do have the Cumberland County book
with inventories and will have to peruse that more         completely too.
Kathleen
rmitchell@washjeff.edu
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin + Mara" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2002 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods


> At 09:23 AM 12/9/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Thank you Mara for responding to my post.  The Eighteenth century house
is
> >the 1790s. (The David Bradford House, homestead of one of the leaders of
the
> >Whiskey Rebellion)
>
> Ah, I see...
>
> >I have the reference book you have suggested and we have
> >some of the longer cloaks.  Some of the women are complaining that even
with
> >the hood up they do not feel warm enough...especially when they are not
used
> >to keeping anything on their heads even if it is tied on. I've finally
> >gotten them to come to terms with house caps.  I agree that the knitted
> >hoods are too late but am still curious as to weather their ilk might
have
> >been thought of in this period.
>
> How about bonnets?  Kannik's Korner has a bonnet pattern that can be made
> out of various materials, from silk taffeta to linen, and I think that
> black or dark green wool bonnets might work for your purposes.
>
> I made myself a bonnet (I didn't use Kannik's pattern, just made myself a
> pattern with posterboard and tissue paper, and tweaked it till it looked
> right, then used that to cut out the materials) this summer, but I bet
it'd
> be a bit warmer than a plain cap for winter wear.  The brim is buckram,
> with millinery wire basted to the edge; I covered the outside with black
> taffeta (acetate, not silk, I think; but I was in a hurry and happened to
> have it in the fabric stash) and the inside with silk lining material.
The
> crown is lined with plain cotton fabric, since nobody will see that and
you
> don't want it to be slippery and slide off your head.  I also don't tie
the
> bonnet under my chin; I don't like the 'tunnel vision' effect, which also
> affects one's ability to hear (another reason to use buckram rather than
> posterboard for the brim).
>
> >I have just remembered another piece in my
> >'Fragments and Fragiles Bag' that might be interesting to research
further.
> >It is fawn colored silk, shaped somewhat like a Quaker bonnet but without
> >the brim, and there is an indication that it ever had ties...at least
that I
> >remember. Some of it is slightly wadded with cotton fluff seen beneath
the
> >lining. The curtain has a 1" ruffle.
>
> That certainly sounds promising!  I'd love to see a picture of what you're
> talking about.  Is it anything like the Kannik's Corner bonnet pattern?
>
> >ON the same theme of warmies, What can
> >I suggest for the hands?  We have gloves and fingerless gloves and mitts;
> >would these be leather or knitted?  Muffs for what classes.
> >Kathleen
>
> Either leather or knitted wool gloves, or knitted mittens, would certainly
> be appropriate.  I'm not certain about how widely muffs were used at this
> period; I could ask a friend with access to the PA Gazette to do a search
> to see how many ads that brings up...  But that would be for the Philly
> area, not Pittsburgh.  My guess would be to go with fairly plain gloves.
>
> Cheers,
> Mara
>
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 07:56:31 -0700
Status: RO

You're welcome, although it's not my (original) idea.
About a decade ago, I was working for a company that did all kinds of
custom sewing--mostly tents and tipis and awnings, but also some special
projects.
One that I thought was *completely cool* was an annual order for tents
and such for these Antarctic expeditions (there's actually a picture of
one of them in the back of a National Geographic, which I sure wish I
had!! <g>).
One of the first years we made the tents, we also made them a whole
bunch of sleeping-bag liners.  They were, basically, sleeping-bag
shaped, with a zippered opening.  I think we bound the edges, too, to
stabilize it for the zipper.
Best of all, my boss let us buy the bolt-ends and such for a dollar a
pound.  I had this four-foot high stack of polar fleece in my living
room! I think sleeping on top of that pile was my cats' *favorite*
occupation! <g>
--sue

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> > A good wool cloak can be a godsend in wet/snowy weather....I'd really
> > recommend it, if you can find it.
> > Although polartec and polar fleece aren't exactly pre-17th c. fabrics
> > (my reenactment time period being pre-17th c.),  I'll certainly cop to
> > using it for camping blankets and sleeping bag liners <ggg>.
> > It also makes nifty jammies and "tunics to throw on in the middle of the
> > night when you need to visit the darned port-a-john."
> > Also, hoods, cowls, and sox.
> > --sue
> 
> I've recently discovered how easy polartec is to sew, and am making myself
> socks out of the remnants from sewing sweaters (jumpers) out of the stuff.
> Hm, a sleeping bag liner sounds like a good idea!  My sleeping bag isn't
> period, anyway; I hide it under a pile of wool blankets.
> 
> Thanks for the idea,
> Mara
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 15:05:05 -0000
Status: RO

Anne wrote:
> I recently found some "wool-look" polyester &
> acrylic suiting on sale at Jo-Ann's for
> $3.99/yard.

snip

> Has anybody else made a period garment with
> fabric which looks right (at least to begin
> with), but is totally synthetic, and what
> happened?

I've never made anything 'period' from pure synthetic, but I have used
wool/acrylic mix for theatre costumes. The big problem is that acrylic
pills dreadfully, so it starts looking shabby very quickly. It also
needed lining to keep it in the right shape. I've still got loads of
the stuff but it is in checks, and thus unsuitable for your period.
Otherwise I'd happily donate some...

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:03:10 -0700
Status: RO

ROTFLMAO!
3 Points to Jane! (hee-hee! ;-)
--sue

jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:
> 
> > On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, MaryAnn Jones wrote:
> > > just as easily be said about rain.  So it looks like it is back to
> > > contemplating wool.  thanks for the info.  Polartec is Elizabethan right?
> 
> Polartec is worn in Britain during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, yes....
>
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:10:20 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

><snip>
>Has anybody else made a period garment with
>fabric which looks right (at least to begin
>with), but is totally synthetic, and what
>happened? 
>
I made a 16th century gown out of synthetic fabric.
The fabric looks a bit like velvet with a very short pool, but at the 
back the fabric is a totally different colour.
I used it try out the pattern for my weddingdress. I never ment to wear 
it, but I did and got a lot of compliments.
The day that I wore it, it was a very hot day but I didn't had any 
problems with it.
Here are pictures of the dress and the fabric
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/16thdress.html

Greetings,
        Deredere


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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 15:28:42 +0000
Status: RO


> Has anybody else made a period garment with
> fabric which looks right (at least to begin
> with), but is totally synthetic, and what
> happened?

An early (c1979) attempt of mine at a 1630s evening dress was in polyester satin, but I used a theatrical pattern and the bodice didn't have the correct cut. The skirt hem discoloured badly from walking to the venue through city streets with oily puddles. Later I wanted to re-use the skirt, dyeing it to hide the stains, but soon realised this wasn't feasible with polyester.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:58:52 -0600
Status: RO

My very first period garment was a kirtle made out of that heavy bridal
satin. I knew it was not period even though it was my first attempt at a
costume for the group. But I was into the period dances and wanted a dress
that would swoosh beautifully. :)

The heavy bridal satin worked very well. :)

I still have the dress, bring it up on this list often, and am looking at it
right now. (Computer in the studio is next to my dress closet). It is the
goal dress to get back down to size wise. :)

Yes comments were made but not as I expected. Comments were more of how
beautiful the color was, how wonderfully it flows when we danced, and what a
long train you have there, how much fabric did you use. I used 15 yards to
make the dress. I was pleasantly surprised that no one commented on the
synthetic nature of the fabric. As a new comer at the time I had heard the
horror stories of newcomers being confronted to the point of tears. I did
not get that. You folks are a lot kinder than some feel you are. :)

Sincerely,
Chiara
Ansteorra, Steppes
Not all ermine spots are created equally

----- Original Message -----
From: "Anne Romine" <montferrat@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 8:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?

>
> Has anybody else made a period garment with
> fabric which looks right (at least to begin
> with), but is totally synthetic, and what
> happened?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 project
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 10:10:50 -0600
Status: RO

I would list everything I have planned for 2003, but I don't want to take
up that much bandwidth. Let's say it begins with several new Elizabethan
Court gowns, continues on with a couple of Gothic Fitted Dresses as a
sorbet and finishes up with a complete late Victorian wardrobe......and
in my free time I plan to develop a cure for cancer and solve world
hunger.......


Karen

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Subject: [h-cost] OT: art cars
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:25:08 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I've always wanted to get a big american car (something 70s)
and lots of little green army men and set up mock battles on the hood
and trunk of the car, complete with miniature greenery.

and I want a Pacer, but I'm not sure what I'd do with it.
it's round lines just BEG to be an art car.

on topic - i would of course delight in driving these to events and
fabric stores ;)

.heather.

> 
> Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU> wrote:
> > 
> > Lee, since your address is in Oakland, I'm wondering if you've seen 
> > the car with CD fish-scales that I spotted on San Pablo Blvd once? 
> > (It may, however, have been an out-of-towner that was around for an 
> > "art cars" weekend.)
> 
> You right, I think that one's an out-of-towner.  Haven't seen it.
> I still bow down before the mastery of the guy who did the stained glass
> volkswagon beetle.  There's also a local who's done a mosaic on her car
> with the flat glass pebbles used for floral arrangements.  And the Unholy
> Roller, the gothic cathedral car.
> 
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 11:38:34 2002
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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: [h-cost] 2003 project
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 10:37:29 -0600
Status: RO

I am completely in agreement with you Stevie.  I have no plans for a project for me 
personally.. other than to try and clean out my pantry to find out what vegetable is in 
hiding and smelling very rank...
I can't even say I have a "historical bridge" to jump off of  :(

(I know Catherine,I have not forgotten, you and I are doing the corded corset)


 >Hi all,

 >Having read everyone elses' projects, and become consumed with envy,
 >as well as deep  inferiority, I propose to throw myself off the
 >Millenium Bridge.
 >Well, at least it's historical...

 >best wishes
 >Stevie


-- 
Linda Thompson


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen cloak, was next years projekts.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 11:45:42 -0500
Status: RO

    I'm reading the list backward, 3 days behind, and you have me laughing
out loud already!
    Although actually I think Polartec is specific to Queen Elizabeth II?
    Does that get me any points?

    And while I'm at it, if nobody said so already, real polished cotton and
glazed chintz  were and are not a home reproducible surface.  They use some
kind of chemical and high pressure rollers.  It's not the same as
oilcloth----which you can still find sometimes, by the way.
    Polished cotton didn't wrinkle as badly.

Diane S.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
ROTFLMAO!
3 Points to Jane! (hee-hee! ;-)
--sue

jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:
>
> > On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, MaryAnn Jones wrote:
> > > just as easily be said about rain.  So it looks like it is back to
> > > contemplating wool.  thanks for the info.  Polartec is Elizabethan
right?
>
> Polartec is worn in Britain during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, yes....
>
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 11:50:21 -0500
Status: RO

I don't have the inferiority, but as for the rest -----may I join you?

Diane S.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Having read everyone elses' projects, and become consumed with envy,
as well as deep  inferiority, I propose to throw myself off the
Millenium Bridge.
Well, at least it's historical...

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 11:55:55 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 11:05:48 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Anne Romine wrote:

> I recently found some "wool-look" polyester & acrylic suiting on sale
> at Jo-Ann's for $3.99/yard. ... Has anybody else made a period garment
> with fabric which looks right (at least to begin with), but is totally
> synthetic, and what happened?

It'll come as no surprise to anyone that I'd suggest you hold out for
wool.

For looks, you might do fine ... at least for a while. But the poly won't
wear as well or last as long. Other people have already mentioned the
issues about dye fastness and pilling. (Pilling is worst with a fuzzy or
soft wool-look poly, less so with a gabardine-look.)

In sewing, it will operate a little differently from wool. This may not be
an issue in something like an Elizabethan, which is layered over an
understructure and is not called upon to shape or mold over your body, but
in a "cotehardie" as you're intending to make, it can be a real headache
-- hard to make work, and never does the job quite right.

It also will not breathe, which is not just an issue of heat but also of
sweat and moisture release. Wool can keep you warm, but poly suffocates
you. This kind of heating is *not* comfortable.

Drape can be way different. I have had to have this point kicked into me.
Less than three years ago I succumbed to some poly/acetate drapery brocade
because the pattern was perfect. It seemed to be OK, and because it was
for a sideless surcote (and not molded to my upper body), I figured the
heat and fit issues would be minimal. But I didn't give enough respect to
the difference in drape. I get a lot of compliments on the surcote from
people whose primary mental image of the shape is from seeing people's
attempts in the SCA, but people who are really familiar with the period
images notice that it doesn't drape as it should. It doesn't drop straight
down in folds and break when it hits the ground; it resists the break and
doesn't fold much, which makes it billow out far from the body to retain a
flatter shape. I wasted a lot of money and effort on a dress that I'm not
happy with and will ultimately remake in wool or silk.

If you had found this fabric for $1.00 a yard it would probably make sense
to buy it and make an easy dress for day wear and mucking around. The
biggest advantage to poly-look wool is that it's easily washable! (If you
are thinking of wearing this to camping events, beware of fire.
Poly/acetate burns easily and melts; this is to be taken very seriously.
Wool is hard to light, and it puts itself out. A small spark-hole is
better than a conflagaration.)

But if you're looking at $4.00 and up, I think you'll ultimately be
happier if you hold out for at least a wool blend. For even a dollar more
a yard you can often get plenty of nice 100% wools online. And I've found
wool gabardines on the clearance section at Jo-Ann's for less than you're
thinking of paying for this poly.

--Robin


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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:58:35 -0700
Status: RO

Looks pretty dang nice to me! Of course with that figure, you'd probably
look good in a potatoe sack!!  :)  That is meant to be a compliment;
though it may sound double edged-it isn't meant to be.

 I like to use the 'real thing' whenever possible, but every once in
awhile, I come across synthetics that have some quality that makes them
acceptable to me.  For instance I just bought a bunch of  white 'silk'
with gold embroidered scroll work-I am going to use it someday for a
chemise.  I also have some brocades that are embroidered and sort of
puffy-all synthetic-they will make a terrific doublet.   I'll just have
to wear them when it is cold (Ha, Ha-in Phoenix, AZ)  :)

Sg


>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Deredere & Owen Iskander
>Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 8:10 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
>
>Hi,
>
>><snip>
>>Has anybody else made a period garment with
>>fabric which looks right (at least to begin
>>with), but is totally synthetic, and what
>>happened?
>>
>I made a 16th century gown out of synthetic fabric.
>The fabric looks a bit like velvet with a very short pool, but at the
>back the fabric is a totally different colour.
>I used it try out the pattern for my weddingdress. I never ment to wear
>it, but I did and got a lot of compliments.
>The day that I wore it, it was a very hot day but I didn't had any
>problems with it.
>Here are pictures of the dress and the fabric
>http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/16thdress.html
>
>Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 10:00:38 -0700
Status: RO

As we say in the 'doll world' even if you just make them in your mind
there is pleasure in the process of imagining them.

Sg




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:05:21 -0500
Status: RO

So, I'll unlurk for this...

I only have a handful, mostly because I'm cramming much of this stuff into the
early part of this year; I'll likely be back to dancing full-time by this time
next year. Much of this is still vague, as I've been out of the game for
awhile, and haven’t ever done things like dyeing.

Anyway:
I'm targeting doing a few, pretty basic, Ottoman-style outfits for myself and
a couple of friends. Nothing of strict historical accuracy, but certainly
enough to be a decent, basic A&S entry if I wanted.

I'm plotting an Early-period Coptic tunic out of some yellow linen I have
sitting around. Eventually, I'd like to do one from dyed linen.

I’m putting together a starter set for exploring dying, as my SCA Persona
would know it; it promises to make my roommate hate me even more than when I
practice zills…

I also need to work on felting, as that seems to have been a common technique
in Ottoman times. I’ll likely not get anything productive done soon, but I
hope to produce some hangings in the period style, eventually working towards
making the felt walls for a ger (yurt) I hope to build for future Pennsics…not
this one, unless I get _really_ lucky.

Some friends on the SCA India list found documentation for period tassel belts
in India. Obviously, they have nothing to do with Middle Eastern Dance, and
are not like the modern ATS-style belt. If anything, they resemble the
Turkeman-style tassels that people like Realm of Regalia sell. Anyway, I'm
plotting to build one of those, just to mess with some people's minds.

As a long-term goal, I'd like to build a "from the ground up" Ottoman outfit,
doing it almost exactly as a period Ottoman tailor would do. It's a long
process; This year is me asking around, trying to get documentation on
methodology and the like, and testing various bits of it with real outfits.
It's going to be a long road, but I think worth it, in the end.

There's some other stuff, like a web site of Resources for African, Asian, and
Middle Eastern SCA persona, but that's only tangentially related to any
costuming projects...
Comments welcome; again, I'm new to much of this. :)

----asim

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:20:23 -0500
Status: RO

There's Hancock's of Paducah, and then of course the biggest little
wishbook, Keepsake Quilting.   Quilts and Other Comforts is at
http://www.quiltsonline.com, but I don't think they have so much repro
stuff.
    Just try a search, there's so much fabric on line it's unreal.
    Hancock's has an incredible catalog, but I have discovered that the
pictures are better than the real thing.  The fabric is beautiful, but not
actually colored quite that intensely----is that a tactful way of putting
it?
    Get a catalog from Keepsake, they have several lines of reproduction
colors, mostly in all cotton-----no, don't get a catalog from them.  Bad,
bad, bad!  I'm supposed to be working, not drooling over that book again!

Evil grin,
Diane S.
<<<<<<<<<<<
      I'm thinking my best bet would an internet source....
--Sue, from a town smack in the middle of....the

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:25:38 -0500
Status: RO

<<<<,she said "But what you need such a big house for?">>>.

    Is there a polite answer for this?  It usually makes me so mad I can't
think of anything decent to say.
    What makes people think they have the right to decide where and how
somebody else should live?

Diane S.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:18:33 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

>
> > I recently found some "wool-look" polyester & acrylic suiting on sale
> > at Jo-Ann's for $3.99/yard. ... Has anybody else made a period garment
> > with fabric which looks right (at least to begin with), but is totally
> > synthetic, and what happened?

I tried it with a brown very wooly looking material.  It was hot, scratchy
and uncomfortable.  :)  For the past few years I've made a practice of
keeping an eye out for 100% wool and linen when it's on sale, even if I
don't have a particular use in mind for it.  I've been able to buy wool
for an average of $6-$8/yd.  I once got a windfall of luverly madder red
wool at $2/yd.

Right now, the only synthetics I use are brocades.  It's hard enough
finding appropriate 16th century patterns; I'm still a ways away from
insisting on silk & wool brocade fabrics.  :)  As they're usually lined,
and used for 16th c. garments that aren't washed and are pretty stiff and
bulky to  begin with, I don't mind them.

Drea

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 12:20:33 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 11:14:28 -0600
Status: RO

Oh dear, next year's projects.

Well, first of all I need to finish the pluderhosen (pattern from Janet
Arnold - the ones worn by Nils Sture) for my brother for his birthday. It's
a surprise, and I can't wait to see his face when he sees the codpiece!

Then I have this upholstery fabric that I just had to buy because it shouted
"Tudor! Tudor! at me as I passed by. So, that's the next project. I only
hope I have enough fabric to do the really big turn-back sleeves.

I also want to make an effigy corset - my first try/mock-up seems to be a
little long in the torso, as I am getting poked in the armpits. I'm also not
sure about the height of the front. I'll have to pull it out and take
another look at it - I first tried this past summer, but just couldn't get
it to work, so it went into the UFO box for awhile.

I also recently picked up a large amount of brownish cotton? velvet for a
gown - not sure just what I'll do with that yet. That same trip brought home
some blue fabric with gold scrolled stripes, and another blue fabric with
shiny and matte stripes in it, but all the same color. I also found some
natural linen and some off-white wool that will get dyed and probably made
into a middle-class Elizabethan. Oh, and I have another lovely red wool that
needs to have something done with it.

I need to fix the shoulder straps on my Flemish gown - I made them too
narrow so you can see the kirtle underneath.

And then, I want to make up at least one more lower/middle class Elizabethan
for myself and my husband before Faire this year.

Hmmm...I think that's it. I need to work on using my stash (10 bankers boxes
and counting!), but most of what I have is too small for Eliz. or not the
right color/fabric/whatever. :-( Maybe I should just go through the stuff
and give it away. My sister is starting to sew...

Oh, and I'm taking the Glovemaking class in January; and did I mention the
brown leather that I picked up this fall when I bought the red leather to
make my brother's doublet (Nils Sture again)? Also got some lovely buff
lightweight leather that I used for the trim on the doublet, and have more
than enough left over to make some gloves (I hope!).

This coming year is also supposed to have us finishing off our basement with
electricity, dry wall, built-in bookshelves which is where my sewing area
will move to. I am also sharing with the guest bedroom (what, a bed isn't
supposed to be used as a cutting table?) and having to pick everything up in
the middle of a project just so someone can *sleep* there is a real PITA.

You know, I didn't think I had a whole lot planned for next year...amazing
what happens when you start to write things down!

(And you wonder why I usually lurk - I need to absorb all the knowledge I
can from this list and then apply it to the projects above!)

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 project
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:16:37 -0800
Status: RO






>Having read everyone elses' projects, and become consumed with envy,
>as well as deep  inferiority,

OK, I can deal with the inferiority part as I have years to continue 
absorbing information from all of the wonderful members here.  I'm just so 
in awe of the huge, I mean HUGE, lists of projects already planned out.  I 
vaguely plan to start the underpinnings for my dream dress and hope to at 
least get ready to cut the brocade.

"I wont be intimidated by the fabric, I wont..."

Now if I can just get the rest of the Christmas presents finished on time 
this year.  ;)



Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!

PS.  Stevie, bridge jumping is not allowed.  It's really impossible to make 
the perfect costume for a splat!!

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 12:44:13 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Bumrolls, was Fox tails, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 11:53:15 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> Thanks, Robin, for this clarification. I must have misinterpreted
> Sarah's article as suggesting that "bum-roll" was a modern term or
> that they didn't exist. (One paragraph is headed "The bum-roll myth".)

I just located the article and confirmed -- in referring to the "bum-roll
myth," Sarah was indeed talking about the modern presumption that the
bum-roll was used throughout the 1500s. Key quotes from her article:

<< The bumroll is often cited as being a necessary component of ALL 16th
century costume. This is most decidedly inaccurate. ...  While the bumroll
does a reasonable job in giving a woman more hip, it is not referenced in
contemporary 16th century literature or wardrobe accounts. ...  The
bumroll is something that is at best a guess at how the skirts of 16th
century gowns were supported, but it is not mentioned before the later
16th century and at which point it is a slang term referring to the French
Farthingale.  ... With the profusion of cartoons mocking female fashions
from this period, the only reference to a bumroll is seen only at the
extreme end of the 16th century. While I believe that padding is
undeniable, I am hesitant to say that the modern interpretation of the
bumroll is accurate for female costume prior to 1570. >>

The whole thing is at <http://www.elizabethanlady.com/farthingales.html>,
which someone probably posted already, but I'd deleted, so maybe worth
repeating.

I'd quibble only with two points in the above. First, I don't believe
there's *any* known written reference to "bum-roll" before 1601, not even
"later 16th century"; Sarah may have been referring there to a certain
visual reference that's pre-1600, rather than to any written one. Second,
I'd question that the phrase "bum-roll" first appears as a slang term for
the French farthingale. That statement is commonly repeated in costume
histories, which is probably where Sarah drew it from, but I personally
think whoever originally came up with that reading (not Sarah) was
misinterpreting the sources, since the first recorded reference of 1601
clearly specifies a difference between the French farthingale and the
bum-roll, so obviously the latter is a separate object, not slang for the
former. (Or "objects," as the speaker complains about having to wear
"bum-rowles," in the plural, instead of the better French farthingale,
implying some combination of pads, not a single roll. But this is a
digression.) These are extremely minor matters. Overall, I think Sarah's
summary is on the mark.

I'm guessing that Sarah is writing for the SCA, which cuts off at 1600.
That means that for SCA purposes, there's a tendency to focus only on
items from before 1600, and anything that can't be documented within the
16th century is out of consideration. Within that context, someone might
state or imply that "the bumroll [or whatever] isn't period" -- meaning
"for our purposes of pre-1600 re-enactment." To a reader who doesn't have
that dividing line to deal with, this implication can be a little
confusing, because it might suggest that the writer is saying some item is
not period ever. I'm sure that's not what Sarah meant; it's just that her
key question was "Is the bumroll suitable for pre-1600 costume?"

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 12:48:43 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen cloak, was next years projekts.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:43:10 -0500
Status: RO

        Just had to pop in here with a couple of comments.  Phoenix
fabrics is fabric.com and they have great bargains.  But what I wanted to
say is - lining a cloak or cape or anything that doesn't fit closely with
satin is asking for constantly pulling it back into place.  Satin is just
too slippery for that sort of thing and you will wish you hadn't done it
in short order.  Been there - done that - won't do it again.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:53:22 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Lessee, projects: Unfortunately, this next year will be devoted primarily
to digesting all of the yummy things I found during my trip to England.
Very little Garment making, unfortunately...well, maybe something for
hubby, and an attempt at one of the gowns in the Tailor's Book of Enns.

Finish transcribing and start testing recipes from the 16th c. English dye
book I found.  Combine with dye recipes from Alessio Piemontese's Book of
Secrets & three German dye/textile recipe manuscripts I've transcribed
& translated. Plus some translations from a Dutch 16th c. dye book. Test
the fabric cleaning recipes in these on the aforementioned dyed sample
fabrics. Annotate the heck out of everything.

Finish transcribing 1560s wardrobe inventory of the Earl of Pembroke.
Do some statistical garment & color analysis & write article.

Transcribe the various tailor's bills & account records of Lord Orme
(found at the PRO) & get that ready for publication.

Publish pattern & article on the early 17th c. (?) stomacher currently at
the Globe.

Once those four things are out of the way, I'll be able to work on my
"Tailor's Book" project--creating a tailor's book that may concievably
have been used by a London tailor of the 1580s.  It'll have sample garment
patterns from all existing 16th & early 17th c. tailor's books I can get
my hands on, some tailor's patterns back-engineered from garments in
Arnold & elsewhere, a sample apprenticeship contract and customer bill, a
list of where to get what materials at the best prices, a list of costs
for generic tasks and items (hat, stays, etc.),  a receipt book & some
IOUs, drawings of various pinking & trim patterns for doublets, a sonnet
on the tailoring trade, the requisite charts for converting fabric widths
& lengths, and whatever else I can think to put in it.  Written in
secretary hand on linen paper with oak gall ink with a quill pen.  Fun fun
fun!  Whee!  (God, I am such a research geek. :P)

And once /that's/ taken care of, I can get back to making some gowns & fun
stuff like that.

Drea

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 13:10:46 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 project
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 19:12:16 +0100
Status: RO

Hello!
I was so lucky today cause i went to the art/craft shop today looking for
paper clay, and Yipeee they had it!!
Baught some packages, to try it,
When i was at Castle Kronborg this spring, there was some lovely lovely
costume dolls in the museum shop.
They were not for sale (i think-hmmm maybe)
It was fashion dolls of Christian IV and his Lady dressed in lovely lovely
renaissance dresses. With ruffs and cuffs and gorgeous gorgeous costumes on.
Such dolls i want to try in the new year!!!
Bjarne who unfortunately has a lot of other work to do right
now------------- it is sooooooooooo difficult when you really really would
like to make something else, but i have some deadlines to catch...........
Thanks for your lovely inputs about the paper clay :-)

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 6:00 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 2003 project


> As we say in the 'doll world' even if you just make them in your mind
> there is pleasure in the process of imagining them.
>
> Sg
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 13:13:42 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:13:29 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Hi, Kathleen,
I think you need to talk to Barbara Bockrath at the Oliver Miller
Homestead; Miller was a store-owner on the frontier in the time period
you're describing, and it's surprising how many 'luxury' items he had in
stock.  It's surprising how many people moved out to the frontier but
nevertheless tried to 'keep up appearances' once they got there.

Come to think of it, if I moved to the boonies, I wouldn't wear my best
clothes out in the yard gardening, but I'd still have them for 'best',
especially if I were entertaining visitors...

-- Mara


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Hello, again.  Guess our references are working at cross purposes.  From
> your previous posts I gather you are in the British Isles while I am in and
> speak of rural America; particularly for the time period of the last decade
> of the Eighteenth Century-.It is possible that the only woman of fashion
> would have been the lady of my House in this area at that time.  We
> speculate that her position would have meant that she could not go
> native,-nor should she-dress in a manner that might have been understood as
> flaunting her class or wealth-At this time her husband was an aspiring
> lawyer. We speculate on their wealth because they built the first stone
> house in Catfish Creek as the community was first named .  Her husband was a
> graduate of Princeton and her family were people of note in Baltimore.If she
> used fur at all, it would have most discreet, and in the democratic manner,
> she probably would have continued doing   so when visiting in the big city.
> Of course wearing fur trimmings in the city would not call as much attention
> to herself as it would on the frontier.
>  Kathleen

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 18th Century winter hats/hoods
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:17:04 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Glad to help!  "Auntie B", as she calls herself, posts pretty freqently on
the 18thCWoman list, and seems to be a veritable wealth of knowledge :D
Certainly more well-versed on frontier life than I am!

-- Mara


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Thankyou Mare for you suggestions.  When I get into the "Bag" I will
> certainly share my findings.  I had not thought of the Miller Homestead
> source; they are also on the "Whiskey Circuit" and Barb sometimes does
> things with us.(hitting hand to head)  I do have the Cumberland County book
> with inventories and will have to peruse that more         completely too.
> Kathleen
> rmitchell@washjeff.edu

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs etc
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 23:37:27 +0000
Status: RO

Joy Shillaker <joyshillaker@hotmail.com> wrote
>Thanks for the comments and advice.
>The earliest reference to bigon (yet another spelling) I have in my 
>research is 1608, Rachael, but I trust the OED. The raile,rayle 
>reference is brilliant Kate, thanks.
>
>Another term that I'm finding difficult to pin down is partlett.There 
>are kerchers, neckerchers headkerchers and so on but no partlett. Is 
>this because it's a high class garment?
>
>The hardest thing I'm finding in my research is that so much for the 
>earlier period is in Latin. Pilum for cap appears and so does camecia 
>for smock. Is there such a thing as 'Tudor and Elizabethan latin?
>
>regards
>Joy
>(who is returning to the 17th century asap)
>
Certainly there is Medieval latin, which is clearly distinct from 
Classical latin, and you will find dictionaries for it which list the 
new meanings of classical words, and the new words invented for new 
things.  I'm not sure that 16th century latin would be seen as a 
distinct type, but there are probably scholars who specialise in that 
period and are familiar with the "dialect" of the time.  However, your 
problem is always finding scholars who understand both the latin and the 
costume - they may know that pilum means something worn on the head, but 
can they distinguish it from other types of hat/cap/veil/hood....?

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:20:23 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Speaking of which...

Well, we've been talking about the difference between wool and poly
imitations, but not about the difference between, say, acetate and real
silk.  What are the differences there, in terms of feel, drape, etc.?

-- Mara


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, chiara wrote:

> My very first period garment was a kirtle made out of that heavy bridal
> satin. I knew it was not period even though it was my first attempt at a
> costume for the group. But I was into the period dances and wanted a dress
> that would swoosh beautifully. :)
>
> The heavy bridal satin worked very well. :)

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Subject: [h-cost] Polished cotton
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:22:10 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Ok, so polished cotton was used for linings in the 19th c. -- was it used
for the outer part of the garments, too?  Like, mid-late 19th c. dresses?

- Mara


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, STRAIGHT  wrote:
>     And while I'm at it, if nobody said so already, real polished cotton and
> glazed chintz  were and are not a home reproducible surface.  They use some
> kind of chemical and high pressure rollers.  It's not the same as
> oilcloth----which you can still find sometimes, by the way.
>     Polished cotton didn't wrinkle as badly.
>
> Diane S.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:50:31 -0500
Status: RO

<<<We have one, count'em one, fabric store in this town, and it's a
JoAnn's>>>

        Well, Sue, if it makes you feel any better, I live in the middle
of flat Florida and the only fabric store in my whole county is a
JoAnn's.  There used to be a couple of others, but they all left and now
it is JoAnn's or Walmart (not at this time of year).   However, I do find
that fabric.com has a lot of good bargains and they get new stock in all
the time so it is worth checking them weekly.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 13:39:03 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Polished cotton
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 19:39:54 +0100
Status: RO

Here in Denmark there are many peassants clotsed preserved from 19th
century. A lot of those clothes are made of polished cottons. When they
could not afford to buy silk, they used polished cotton in stead because it
glimts and shines like silk.

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 7:22 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Polished cotton


> Ok, so polished cotton was used for linings in the 19th c. -- was it used
> for the outer part of the garments, too?  Like, mid-late 19th c. dresses?
>
> - Mara
>
>
> On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, STRAIGHT  wrote:
> >     And while I'm at it, if nobody said so already, real polished cotton
and
> > glazed chintz  were and are not a home reproducible surface.  They use
some
> > kind of chemical and high pressure rollers.  It's not the same as
> > oilcloth----which you can still find sometimes, by the way.
> >     Polished cotton didn't wrinkle as badly.
> >
> > Diane S.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 13:44:38 2002
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 10:46:16 -0800
Status: RO

http://www.designerfabrics.ca

Under "Silks/Damasks and Embroidered" they have some gorgeous
machine-embroidered dupionis.  They will send up to eight swatches,
which you can keep for weeks without charge.  I just received mine.
The embroidery on most is very dense and at a scale suitable for
clothing.  It is high quality for machine embroidery.  Also, the
fabrics on the website are mostly not bridal white-on-white, unlike
the very few similar embroidered silks I've seen in local stores.
Most are colors and designs suitable for the 18th century.  Some might
work for19th-century fashions inspired by the 18th century.  Some of
the ones I did not get samples of may be smooth silks.  I think the
prices are fair given the quality of the fabrics.

Personally, I'm not going to get all agitated about exactly when it's
OK to wear dupioni.  It's so hard to find fabrics like this at all,
that I just bought what I really liked.  A good design is more visible
than slubs in the silk.  But they also have some smooth taffeta checks
and plaids.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 14:18:13 2002
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:17:21 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C2A120.04FAB5C0
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Two gowns--one will be my brick red wool Tudor, with brown-velvet lined =
sleeves.

One Elizabethan, of a fabric to be named later, from the skin out.

That oughta keep me occupied!

Dianne
Next to acquiring good friends, the best acquisition is that of good =
books.
------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C2A120.04FAB5C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1126" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Two gowns--one will be my brick red =
wool Tudor,=20
with brown-velvet lined sleeves.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>One Elizabethan, of a fabric to be =
named later,=20
from the skin out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>That oughta keep me=20
occupied!<BR><BR>Dianne</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Next to acquiring good friends, the =
best=20
acquisition is that of good books.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C2A120.04FAB5C0--

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From: Woodrow Jarvis Hill <asim@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for embroidered silks
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:42:16 -0500 (GMT)
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>

> It's so hard to find fabrics like this at all,
> that I just bought what I really liked.  A good design is more 
> visible
> than slubs in the silk.  But they also have some smooth taffeta > checks and plaids.

Along these same lines, a recent SCA Persian elist post pointed out http://www.arabiannights.ca/silk-bulk.htm , which carries Silk Brocade from Syria. No experience with them, but it looks lovely, and I look forward to sorting out which pieces might work in a period style...

> Fran

----asim
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 15:01:38 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

YUMMY!

OK, I need to make myself a Turkish outfit now.

Thanks,

Drea


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Woodrow Jarvis Hill wrote:

> From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>
> > It's so hard to find fabrics like this at all,
> > that I just bought what I really liked.  A good design is more
> > visible
> > than slubs in the silk.  But they also have some smooth taffeta > checks and plaids.
>
> Along these same lines, a recent SCA Persian elist post pointed out http://www.arabiannights.ca/silk-bulk.htm , which carries Silk Brocade from Syria. No experience with them, but it looks lovely, and I look forward to sorting out which pieces might work in a period style...
>
> > Fran
>
> ----asim
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In a message dated 12/11/2002 11:27:00 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
lindo@Radix.Net writes:


> Well, we've been talking about the difference between wool and poly
> imitations, but not about the difference between, say, acetate and real
> silk.  What are the differences there, in terms of feel, drape, etc.?
> 


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/11/2002 11:27:00 AM Mountain Standard Time, lindo@Radix.Net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Well, we've been talking about the difference between wool and poly<BR>
imitations, but not about the difference between, say, acetate and real<BR>
silk.&nbsp; What are the differences there, in terms of feel, drape, etc.?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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In a message dated 12/11/2002 11:27:00 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
lindo@Radix.Net writes:


> Well, we've been talking about the difference between wool and poly
> imitations, but not about the difference between, say, acetate and real
> silk.  What are the differences there, in terms of feel, drape, etc.?
> 

Sorry about the runaway computer.  Acetate: Weak, falls apart easily, 
especially if wet, frays, HIGHLY FLAMMABLE!, other than that, behaves more 
like natural than other synthetics ie. wrinkles, drapes, shrinks.

Silk: Strong, dyes beautifully, lustrous, incredible hand (drape, flow).  Not 
called "the Queen of Fabrics" for nothing.  And can be had as cheaply as 
acetate from Exotic Silks and other vendors.

Cheryl

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/11/2002 11:27:00 AM Mountain Standard Time, lindo@Radix.Net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Well, we've been talking about the difference between wool and poly<BR>
imitations, but not about the difference between, say, acetate and real<BR>
silk.&nbsp; What are the differences there, in terms of feel, drape, etc.?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Sorry about the runaway computer.&nbsp; Acetate: Weak, falls apart easily, especially if wet, frays, HIGHLY FLAMMABLE!, other than that, behaves more like natural than other synthetics ie. wrinkles, drapes, shrinks.<BR>
<BR>
Silk: Strong, dyes beautifully, lustrous, incredible hand (drape, flow).&nbsp; Not called "the Queen of Fabrics" for nothing.&nbsp; And can be had as cheaply as acetate from Exotic Silks and other vendors.<BR>
<BR>
Cheryl<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:24:37 -0600
Status: RO

Robin - where do you find 100% wool online that isn't pinstripe or plaid?
I'm obviously not looking in the right places :-)

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************



> But if you're looking at $4.00 and up, I think you'll ultimately be
> happier if you hold out for at least a wool blend. For even a dollar more
> a yard you can often get plenty of nice 100% wools online. And I've found
> wool gabardines on the clearance section at Jo-Ann's for less than you're
> thinking of paying for this poly.
>
> --Robin


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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:24:37 -0600
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Robin - where do you find 100% wool online that isn't pinstripe or plaid?
I'm obviously not looking in the right places :-)

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************



> But if you're looking at $4.00 and up, I think you'll ultimately be
> happier if you hold out for at least a wool blend. For even a dollar more
> a yard you can often get plenty of nice 100% wools online. And I've found
> wool gabardines on the clearance section at Jo-Ann's for less than you're
> thinking of paying for this poly.
>
> --Robin


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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:36:32 -0600
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>>>Robin - where do you find 100% wool online that isn't pinstripe or plaid?
I'm obviously not looking in the right places :-)

I'm obviously not Robin, but...
http://www.trimfabric.com/

-Magdalena
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:42:31 -0600
Status: RO

2003 (and probably the 10 years following)

Finish:
*Blue silk cutte & pinked man's mid-sixteenth century German
based on this woodcut: 
<http://home.earthlink.net/~magdlena/shirt/images/Ball4_thumb.jpg>
The doublet is almost finished, the pants are on the drawing board, the 
hat is waiting to see how much is left of the blue silk from the pants to 
decide whether it will be blue silk or black velvet. 
*Pair of black shoes, cutte & pinked, to match the outfit above
*Cream silk man's late 1570's Elizabethan outfit covered with pearls, gold 
beads, and gold passing thread - handsewn
I'm partway through adding the pearls, gold beads, and couched gold 
passing thread to the doublet pieces.  I have the fabric for the Spanish 
sleeves, but I haven't mocked them up yet.  I'm still looking for the 
black velvet (I want silk, I think I'll settle for rayon/silk blend) for 
the cloak & hat.  The shirt pieces are waiting for drawnwork & embroidery.

Not yet started:
*cream/natural embroidered shoes to go with the cream outfit above
*green bliaut type thing for me  (think side laced gored kirtle)
*red bliaut type thing as a "surprise" for a friend  (Close your eyes. 
Take your clothes off.  No, keep your eyes closed.  Pay no attention to 
the dress being pulled over your head.  No, I'm not making you anything. 
Shut up and keep your eyes closed.)
*black loose gown with bronze kirtle for me
*new smock to go with my Flemish, and an apron
*German Renn outfit (complete with 80's bow butt codpiece) for a friend
*Viking apron dress for a friend
*generic kirtle and surcoat for the same friend
*3-4 new shirts for Ox

In my wildest dreams:
*retrofit the half -completed Ottoman to my new, more ample figure & 
finish the outfit
*black & red line cotehardie for Ox, in wearable mockup for the black and 
red silk cotehardie
*turnshoes for Ox & I
*gold-brocaded garters for the cream outfit
*learn to knit to make silk hose

-Magdalena 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 project
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:25:58 -0800
Status: RO


>"I wont be intimidated by the fabric, I wont..."

My grandmother was a hobby weaver.  She wove a piece of fabric for a dress 
and jacket for me (I was young and small then) for a weaver's 
convention.  My mother was severely intimidated by the prospect of cutting 
into this fabric till I offered to do the cutting.  Somehow she managed.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:28:40 -0800
Status: RO


>http://www.quiltsonline.com

If they have tan glazed cotton, they keep it hidden.  I could find no such 
thing.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for embroidered silks
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:35:23 -0800
Status: RO


>Along these same lines, a recent SCA Persian elist post pointed out 
>http://www.arabiannights.ca/silk-bulk.htm , which carries Silk Brocade 
>from Syria. No experience with them, but it looks lovely, and I look 
>forward to sorting out which pieces might work in a period style...

As I was busy drooling in my shoes, I realized I didn't make enough last 
year to buy enough of this lovely stuff to do anything with, at a minimum 
of 5 meters per cut, and a surcharge of $35 for orders under 10 
meters.  They claim the Vatican is one of their customers, and I believe it.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:52:35 -0600
Status: RO

What about wool/poly blends vs. 100% wool? I know 100% is better, but blends
are more plentiful and affordable :-)

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 project
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:57:31 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

No! NO! NO!  

No bridge jumping, inferiority,  or other such
things....not cool ;(


What else could keep me going when I look at my
cancerous project list than the goal of clearing that
out and starting on something from one of Fran's
books, or trying out some of the non-SCA period
things?  (Other than the sci-fi/fantasy stuff...but i
use the same knowledge!)

Most of the stuff I sew currently is very simple, with
applique being the most advanced treatment, or a few
bits of embroidery.  Makes it easy to have a large
project list when each project maybe takes 8 hours
from draft to final hem.  

Angharat





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for embroidered silks
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:34:27 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> 
> http://www.designerfabrics.ca
> 
> Under "Silks/Damasks and Embroidered" they have some gorgeous
> machine-embroidered dupionis.  They will send up to eight swatches,
> which you can keep for weeks without charge.  I just received mine.
> The embroidery on most is very dense and at a scale suitable for
> clothing.  It is high quality for machine embroidery.  Also, the
> fabrics on the website are mostly not bridal white-on-white, unlike
> the very few similar embroidered silks I've seen in local stores.

One thing to beware of with embroidered silks is that the embroidery
is often rayon.  If you attempt to vat dye with acid dyes, the dye takes
on the silk, but only very lightly on the embroidery.  If you _know_ this,
you shouldn't be suprised by the results.  It can be quite lovely.  The
shock comes in when you buy a piece of already dyed fabric that wasn't 
washed out propery.  

I bought a piece of azure silk with deeper blue embroidery once.  Upon 
washing with Synthropol, it became azure silk with light blue embroidery.
Worse, some of the embroidery had washed out unevenly, leaving a patch
right in the middle of the piece that was almost white.  Oops.  This was
before I'd done much garment dyeing, though I'd done silk painting and 
batik quite a bit by then.  If I'd known then what I know _now_ about
dyeing textiles, I wouldn't have been so shocked.  I ended up using the
silk for a very fancy psuedo-medieval hat with a beaded fringe that goes
just fine with pre-raphaelite style dresses.  I still have the other half
of the piece that I'll probably make into a matching pouch at some point.


Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 15:14:58 -0600
Status: RO

You might try looking under their cotton sateens. They seem to have
several colors which might do, although none are actually tan.


Karen



On Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:28:40 -0800 Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
writes:
> 
> >http://www.quiltsonline.com
> 
> If they have tan glazed cotton, they keep it hidden.  I could find 
> no such thing. 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 16:32:47 2002
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:35:27 -0800
Status: RO

Most (though not all) of their embroidery is multicolor, so could not have
been dyed along with the cloth.

I always dry clean silks, except for soft silk lingerie that was meant to be
hand washed.  I've never had any fading problems with rayon, silk, embroidery,
or brocade with dry cleaning.  Washing silks and embroidered fabrics can be
more problematic than dry cleaning, though it depends on the fabric.  If you
cut off a test sample of the fabric, measure it (to later calculate
shrinkage), and clean it by the desired method (or more than one method),
you'll know how it does or does not shrink or fade before you make up the
garment.  This prevents most unpleasant surprises.

And with swatches, you could even clean the swatch before ordering yardage.
You'd  have to pay for the swatch instead of borrowing it, but that would be
much less expensive than buying fabric for a whole garment.

Anyway, I'm thrilled with my purchase and look foward to receiving it.

Fran

Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:

> Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> >
> > http://www.designerfabrics.ca
> >
> > Under "Silks/Damasks and Embroidered" they have some gorgeous
> > machine-embroidered dupionis.  They will send up to eight swatches,
> > which you can keep for weeks without charge.  I just received mine.
> > The embroidery on most is very dense and at a scale suitable for
> > clothing.  It is high quality for machine embroidery.  Also, the
> > fabrics on the website are mostly not bridal white-on-white, unlike
> > the very few similar embroidered silks I've seen in local stores.
>
> One thing to beware of with embroidered silks is that the embroidery
> is often rayon.  If you attempt to vat dye with acid dyes, the dye takes
> on the silk, but only very lightly on the embroidery.  If you _know_ this,
> you shouldn't be suprised by the results.  It can be quite lovely.  The
> shock comes in when you buy a piece of already dyed fabric that wasn't
> washed out propery.
>
> I bought a piece of azure silk with deeper blue embroidery once.  Upon
> washing with Synthropol, it became azure silk with light blue embroidery.
> Worse, some of the embroidery had washed out unevenly, leaving a patch
> right in the middle of the piece that was almost white.  Oops.  This was
> before I'd done much garment dyeing, though I'd done silk painting and
> batik quite a bit by then.  If I'd known then what I know _now_ about
> dyeing textiles, I wouldn't have been so shocked.  I ended up using the
> silk for a very fancy psuedo-medieval hat with a beaded fringe that goes
> just fine with pre-raphaelite style dresses.  I still have the other half
> of the piece that I'll probably make into a matching pouch at some point.

---------------------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:59:50 -0500
Status: RO

<<<<<No bridge jumping, inferiority,  or other such
things....not cool >>>.

    If the bridge to the next year is the same as the bridge to the new
millennium, whichever year it was, there's not much to worry about.  It
never amounted to anything after all that fluff and fuss.
    How's the generator, woodpile, and 2 year supply of food and fabric?
    Actually, historic clothes were designed for cold houses with no central
heating.  You would have been right in style!

Diane S.---southwest NYS, lots of mushy stuff, wood stove buried under pile
of yarn and wool.

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Subject: [h-cost] Wool crepe 
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:54:14 -0800
Status: RO

When did wool crepe come along?  Would it be suitable for Elizabethan men's
wear?  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:56:23 -0800
Status: RO

To Fran-

Oh, thanks _so_ much!! Really!!  Now, your next mission is to help me 
decide which body part I can sell to get some of this scrumptious stuff. 
Or, maybe lay in wait for a sale (if it ever happens).

Theresa Eacker


Lavolta Press wrote:

> http://www.designerfabrics.ca
> 
> Under "Silks/Damasks and Embroidered" they have some gorgeous
> machine-embroidered dupionis.  


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 11 17:16:36 2002
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:17:35 -0800
Status: RO

>Middle-Eastern Costuming of 13th Century
>by Rozalynd of Thornaby on Tees
>
>http://users.lazerlink.com/~dwarph/v1n1/al-must_v1N1.html#RTFToC11

I cannot recommend this site for any purpose. It presents gross 
generalizations based largely on 19th and 20th century, but not good 
historical research for those two centuries. And definitely not 
useful if you are interested in clothing from before those centuries.

There are a multitude of SCA Near Eastern lists on Yahoo! But most 
are rather quiet and don't have a great deal of useful information.

The best is the Persian list, sca-persian. There are actually 
knowledgeable folks on that list who do real research and make good 
garb. And there are patterns in the files section and photos of folks 
in their clothes as well as photos of actual cloth and period 
paintings in the photos section.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sca-persian

For Andalusian clothing, you can ask on the SCA Spanish list, 
Medieval_Spain, which has plenty of knowledgeable people. Especially, 
look for posts by Violante, as she specializes in Muslim Spain.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Medieval_Spain

I think it's well worth signing up with Yahoo to receive these lists 
and have access to their files and photos.

al-Sayyida Anahita al-Qurtubiyya bint 'abd al-Karim al-Fassi

Dar Anahita, a Maghribi domicile
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for embroidered silks
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 18:03:17 -0800
Status: RO

Woodrow Jarvis Hill <asim@mindspring.com> wrote:
>Along these same lines, a recent SCA Persian elist post pointed out
>http://www.arabiannights.ca/silk-bulk.htm
>which carries Silk Brocade from Syria. No experience with them,
>but it looks lovely, and I look forward to sorting out which pieces
>might work in a period style...

Aargh! What torture! Pretty much all of these fabrics are *perfect* 
for 15th and 16th century Persian, and many look very Safavid!! I 
*really* need these for the Persian wardrobe i'm making. So far i've 
made the prototype garments and a paper pattern from one of them so i 
can repeat what i did. But i really need these real silk brocades to 
look just right...

Unfortunately none of the patterns is on the "oversized" scale 
typical of Ottoman, although a few have vaguely similar motifs, such 
as the carnations. I'll just have to keep looking - i'll be starting 
on the prototype garments for my 16th c. Ottoman wardrobe next week.

Too bad those "low Canadian dollars" still add up to too many even 
when converted into fewer US dollars.

And this stuff is only about 36" wide. So i'd need close to twice as 
much of it as i would of 45" to 54" wide fabric. And for Persians, 
i'm already using about 4 yards at "modern" widths. And i'm lucky, 
i'm 5'1" so i need less fabric than most women and men.

So far, the most i've paid for fabric is around $25 US per yard for 
60" wide jacquard woven "home decorating" fabric with 16th c. Persian 
patterns. Of course, that fabric has the wrong hand, but at least it 
has the right look. But not as right as Arabian Nights...

Some day, when i win the Lotto, Arabian Nights and Bevilacqua, here i come...

Anahita
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: Bumrolls, was Fox tails, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:01:17 -0500
Status: RO

On Wednesday 11 December 2002 08:30 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:
[text cut here]

> In the portion where she quotes my work, Sarah does note my assertion that
> the modern vision of the "wheel" farthingale as a hooped or wired flat
> frame is most likely an inaccurate assumption about what gave the "French
> farthingale" style its shape. You can find some earlier threads on this
> topic collected at <http://www.netherton.net/robin>. (Last time I looked,
> Sarah's article linked to the h-cost archives for some of this material;
> the collection at this URL has more and is easier to read.)

[rest of text cut]

Robin, if you ever make a sketch of your idea as to what support structure the 
"wheel" farthingale may have had, I'd appreciate it if you could post a URL 
to it or send me (privately) an image of same.   
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 18:59:02 -0800
Status: RO

Acetate also can eventually change color unevenly -- one of my first 1860's
ballgowns was made of purple acetate moire, and it eventually (after 5-8
years) turned pink in the folds of the skirt.  I remember this topic coming
up on the list , and it seemed the consensus was that acetate just does
this, and that there's no way to prevent/repair the damage.

Personally, I usually use synthetics because I can't afford silks or wools
(most of my costuming is 19th century), although I have worked with silk a
few times and it was fabulous.  When I can afford it, it'll be natural
fibers all the time!

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?


> Speaking of which...
>
> Well, we've been talking about the difference between wool and poly
> imitations, but not about the difference between, say, acetate and real
> silk.  What are the differences there, in terms of feel, drape, etc.?
>
> -- Mara

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test question/properties of rayon
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 14:03:06 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

Thanks for the thorough instructions Robin - I can
file this away for future reference without even
having to ask for clarification! :)


Bella


--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: 
> Very easy. I learned it on this list, I think. I
> knocked the socks off my
> manager at the shop, because we had no way before
> this to differentiate a
> pure wool from a wool-and-natural-fiber blend.
> 
> Wool and silk dissolve in bleach. Cotton, rayon, and
> linen do not. Do a
> burn test first to identify synthetics (hard bead or
> plastic residue). If
> you have a natural fiber, narrow it down by doing
> the following.
> 
> Cut a small swatch -- half an inch square, or larger
> if you've got
> multiple types of threads (e.g. a stripe or plaid)
> so you can get samples
> of all the threads in one swatch. Put a little
> bleach (maybe 1/2 inch) in
> a small jar (like a baby food jar) or a glass/pyrex
> custard cup, and add
> the swatch. I use a toothpick or plastic spoon to
> poke the swatch down to
> it's wet through. Leave it for a few hours or
> overnight.
> 
> Wool will disappear completely -- the bleach will
> look perfectly clear.
> Silk will disappear but usually leave a bit of
> residue. (Perhaps that's
> the seracin?) Cotton, linen, and rayon will remain
> intact, though may lose
> their color.
> 
> A blend will dissolve in parts. For instance, in a
> wool/rayon blend where
> each thread is made of multiple fibers, the wool
> fibers will dissolve and
> you'll end up with a tangled mess of rayon fibers.
> If you have a fabric
> where whole threads of wool or silk are interwoven
> with whole threads of a
> non-animal fiber, such as some plaids or checks, you
> can get a nice grid
> pattern remaining, with empty spots in the
> interlacing where the animal
> fiber used to be. If one fiber is warp and one is
> weft, you'll end up with
> a row of the non-animal fibers lined up neatly in
> the bottom of the cup.
> 
> It's fun to watch this happening. Wool will fizz
> slightly, like when you
> put peroxide on a cut. Check on it every little
> while and poke it with the
> toothpick to break up the fibers if necessary; it
> can take a while for the
> bleach to penetrate a thick fabric.
> 
> --Robin


=====
Lady Bella Lucia da Verona
Innilgard, Lochac

The Realm of Venus
http://au.geocities.com/bella_lucia_da_verona
Owner, Courtesan E-mail Group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Courtesan

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- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:32:22 -0500
Status: RO

On Tuesday 10 December 2002 06:37 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
[text cut here]

> Certainly there is Medieval latin, which is clearly distinct from
> Classical latin, and you will find dictionaries for it which list the
> new meanings of classical words, and the new words invented for new
> things.  I'm not sure that 16th century latin would be seen as a
> distinct type, but there are probably scholars who specialise in that
> period and are familiar with the "dialect" of the time.  However, your
> problem is always finding scholars who understand both the latin and the
> costume - they may know that pilum means something worn on the head, but
> can they distinguish it from other types of hat/cap/veil/hood....?

?  I thought a pilum was a type of javelin.

http://www.novaroma.org/via_romana/reenactments/pilum.html


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 project
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 20:00:08 -0800
Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 project



> Once those four things are out of the way, I'll be able to work on my
> "Tailor's Book" project--creating a tailor's book that may concievably
> have been used by a London tailor of the 1580s.  It'll have sample garment
> patterns from all existing 16th & early 17th c. tailor's books I can get
> my hands on, some tailor's patterns back-engineered from garments in
> Arnold & elsewhere, a sample apprenticeship contract and customer bill, a
> list of where to get what materials at the best prices, a list of costs
> for generic tasks and items (hat, stays, etc.),  a receipt book & some
> IOUs, drawings of various pinking & trim patterns for doublets, a sonnet
> on the tailoring trade, the requisite charts for converting fabric widths
> & lengths, and whatever else I can think to put in it.  Written in
> secretary hand on linen paper with oak gall ink with a quill pen.  Fun fun
> fun!  Whee!  (God, I am such a research geek. :P)
>

Oh this sounds very interesting.  I have spent the last six months
researching and gathering together reproduction 16th century tailoring tools
in order to re-create a tailors shop for next season's renaissance faires
here in Northern California.  A friend and professional period woodworker
is making a brass braced ell (English 45inches), some pleat clamps and
hangers from Jost Amman and Hans Sachs - The Tailor woodcut, some poking
sticks for ironing ruffs and the ruff stand from The Monkeys' apeing fashion
engraving.  I  even managed to  pick up a pair of old sheep shears recently
on ebay.  I am making up price lists, receipts, etc as you have mentioned,
too for use at the faire.  It will be a shop where fair folk can come and
shop.  They will see period clothing, fabric swatches, and will be fitted
with period technology and will pay period prices.  It is a "gig" for me, I
will not actually be selling anything to the public.

I miss dreadfully the living history that I was apart of when I lived in
Australia and my involvement with the Abbey Museum and it's medieval
tournament.  I view the Renaissance Faires here as very much as Disneyland
sort of production overall anyway, but I am hoping to do my part to improve
the standards.  Australia must be similar to the re-enactment scene Nicole
described.  More focus on small groups dedicated to a particular time
period, less the SCA huge time span activity, although it plays a feature in
the re-enactment scene too.

My area of interest at the moment is the merchants or clothiers one would
have met on Threadneedle St.  Although I am not a complete newbie to
historical clothing, this hobby is something I began only in the last couple
of years and the renaissance time period is completely new to me.  So to all
of you who have been doing this time period for awhile, I am so grateful for
the info you have made available to people like me.  I hope to add to this
body of knowledge myself in the near future.

Cheers!

Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com


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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 19:45:48 -0800
Status: RO

80's bow butt codpiece?

At 02:42 PM 12/11/2002 -0600, Christina L Biles wrote:
>2003 (and probably the 10 years following)
>
>Finish:
>*Blue silk cutte & pinked man's mid-sixteenth century German
>based on this woodcut:
><http://home.earthlink.net/~magdlena/shirt/images/Ball4_thumb.jpg>
>The doublet is almost finished, the pants are on the drawing board, the
>hat is waiting to see how much is left of the blue silk from the pants to
>decide whether it will be blue silk or black velvet.
>*Pair of black shoes, cutte & pinked, to match the outfit above
>*Cream silk man's late 1570's Elizabethan outfit covered with pearls, gold
>beads, and gold passing thread - handsewn
>I'm partway through adding the pearls, gold beads, and couched gold
>passing thread to the doublet pieces.  I have the fabric for the Spanish
>sleeves, but I haven't mocked them up yet.  I'm still looking for the
>black velvet (I want silk, I think I'll settle for rayon/silk blend) for
>the cloak & hat.  The shirt pieces are waiting for drawnwork & embroidery.
>
>Not yet started:
>*cream/natural embroidered shoes to go with the cream outfit above
>*green bliaut type thing for me  (think side laced gored kirtle)
>*red bliaut type thing as a "surprise" for a friend  (Close your eyes.
>Take your clothes off.  No, keep your eyes closed.  Pay no attention to
>the dress being pulled over your head.  No, I'm not making you anything.
>Shut up and keep your eyes closed.)
>*black loose gown with bronze kirtle for me
>*new smock to go with my Flemish, and an apron
>*German Renn outfit (complete with 80's bow butt codpiece) for a friend
>*Viking apron dress for a friend
>*generic kirtle and surcoat for the same friend
>*3-4 new shirts for Ox
>
>In my wildest dreams:
>*retrofit the half -completed Ottoman to my new, more ample figure &
>finish the outfit
>*black & red line cotehardie for Ox, in wearable mockup for the black and
>red silk cotehardie
>*turnshoes for Ox & I
>*gold-brocaded garters for the cream outfit
>*learn to knit to make silk hose
>
>-Magdalena
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:04:22 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> Acetate also can eventually change color unevenly -- one of my first
> 1860's ballgowns was made of purple acetate moire, and it eventually
> (after 5-8 years) turned pink in the folds of the skirt.  I remember
> this topic coming up on the list , and it seemed the consensus was
> that acetate just does this, and that there's no way to prevent/repair
> the damage.

I've found this with acetates I've had stored on shelves or in boxes, even
without light exposure. It discolors along the folds and sometimes the
selvedges. I don't think it's acid effect from the boxes, or it would
discolor everywhere it touched the cardboard. Perhaps something about
folding? And the discoloration isn't just fading -- it turns a truly
different color.

I stay far away from acetate these days.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] underwear?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 23:26:38 EST
Status: RO


--part1_3a.30f050f1.2b2969fe_boundary
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I got this from Bizarre News.  Has anyone else heard of these?  Would they 
itch?  I guess they would be steardy but I just don't think I want a pair.
Kelly
-------------------- Hair Under Where? ---------------------

Lingerie designer Jose Monino has created a new trend in 
underwear fashion. After working with hair extensions and 
plaiting a few strands, Monino came up with the idea of 
weaving hair to create a new style of underwear. After an 
extensive process of thorough cleaning and weeks of careful 
weaving, Monino has created a matching bra and panty set out 
of human hair and is selling them for over $3,000 per set. 
The undergarments are highly priced due to the arduous pro-
cess of creating each pair. One question remains: Are they 
to be taken to the dry cleaners or the beauty salon?


--part1_3a.30f050f1.2b2969fe_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I got this from Bizarre News.&nbsp; Has anyone else heard of these?&nbsp; Would they itch?&nbsp; I guess they would be steardy but I just don't think I want a pair.<BR>
Kelly<BR>
-------------------- Hair Under Where? ---------------------<BR>
<BR>
Lingerie designer Jose Monino has created a new trend in <BR>
underwear fashion. After working with hair extensions and <BR>
plaiting a few strands, Monino came up with the idea of <BR>
weaving hair to create a new style of underwear. After an <BR>
extensive process of thorough cleaning and weeks of careful <BR>
weaving, Monino has created a matching bra and panty set out <BR>
of human hair and is selling them for over $3,000 per set. <BR>
The undergarments are highly priced due to the arduous pro-<BR>
cess of creating each pair. One question remains: Are they <BR>
to be taken to the dry cleaners or the beauty salon?<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_3a.30f050f1.2b2969fe_boundary--
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 20:49:59 -0800
Status: RO

Would it be indelicate to ask what part of the body they harvested the
hair from?

Fran

M311@aol.com wrote:

> I got this from Bizarre News.  Has anyone else heard of these?
> Would they itch?  I guess they would be steardy but I just don't
> think I want a pair.
> Kelly
> -------------------- Hair Under Where? ---------------------
>
> Lingerie designer Jose Monino has created a new trend in
> underwear fashion. After working with hair extensions and
> plaiting a few strands, Monino came up with the idea of
> weaving hair to create a new style of underwear. After an
> extensive process of thorough cleaning and weeks of careful
> weaving, Monino has created a matching bra and panty set out
> of human hair and is selling them for over $3,000 per set.
> The undergarments are highly priced due to the arduous pro-
> cess of creating each pair. One question remains: Are they
> to be taken to the dry cleaners or the beauty salon?
>

--
---------------------------------------------
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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] underwear?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:51:18 -0600
Status: RO

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I'm thinking of Hair-shirts, sackcloth and ashes;
 all medieval implements of penance, If I recall correctly...
not the thing for next to the skin wearing!!
Betsy
  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of M311@aol.com
  Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 10:27 PM
  To: h-costume@indra.com
  Subject: [h-cost] underwear?


  I got this from Bizarre News.  Has anyone else heard of these?  Would they
itch?  I guess they would be steardy but I just don't think I want a pair.
  Kelly
  -------------------- Hair Under Where? ---------------------

  Lingerie designer Jose Monino has created a new trend in
  underwear fashion. After working with hair extensions and
  plaiting a few strands, Monino came up with the idea of
  weaving hair to create a new style of underwear. After an
  extensive process of thorough cleaning and weeks of careful
  weaving, Monino has created a matching bra and panty set out
  of human hair and is selling them for over $3,000 per set.
  The undergarments are highly priced due to the arduous pro-
  cess of creating each pair. One question remains: Are they
  to be taken to the dry cleaners or the beauty salon?


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<DIV><SPAN class=3D765084904-12122002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>I'm=20
thinking of Hair-shirts, sackcloth and ashes;</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D765084904-12122002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>&nbsp;all medieval implements of penance, If I recall=20
correctly...</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D765084904-12122002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>not=20
the thing for next to the skin wearing!!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D765084904-12122002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>Betsy</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
h-costume-admin@indra.com=20
  [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]<B>On Behalf Of=20
  </B>M311@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, December 11, 2002 10:27=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost]=20
  underwear?<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
lang=3D0=20
  face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I got this from Bizarre =
News.&nbsp; Has=20
  anyone else heard of these?&nbsp; Would they itch?&nbsp; I guess they =
would be=20
  steardy but I just don't think I want a =
pair.<BR>Kelly<BR>--------------------=20
  Hair Under Where? ---------------------<BR><BR>Lingerie designer Jose =
Monino=20
  has created a new trend in <BR>underwear fashion. After working with =
hair=20
  extensions and <BR>plaiting a few strands, Monino came up with the =
idea of=20
  <BR>weaving hair to create a new style of underwear. After an =
<BR>extensive=20
  process of thorough cleaning and weeks of careful <BR>weaving, Monino =
has=20
  created a matching bra and panty set out <BR>of human hair and is =
selling them=20
  for over $3,000 per set. <BR>The undergarments are highly priced due =
to the=20
  arduous pro-<BR>cess of creating each pair. One question remains: Are =
they=20
  <BR>to be taken to the dry cleaners or the beauty=20
salon?<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 00:08:02 -0500
Status: RO

But weren't those made of horse hair?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 11:51 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] underwear?


> I'm thinking of Hair-shirts, sackcloth and ashes;
>  all medieval implements of penance, If I recall correctly...
> not the thing for next to the skin wearing!!
> Betsy
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of M311@aol.com
>   Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 10:27 PM
>   To: h-costume@indra.com
>   Subject: [h-cost] underwear?
>
>
>   I got this from Bizarre News.  Has anyone else heard of these?  Would
they
> itch?  I guess they would be steardy but I just don't think I want a pair.
>   Kelly
>   -------------------- Hair Under Where? ---------------------
>
>   Lingerie designer Jose Monino has created a new trend in
>   underwear fashion. After working with hair extensions and
>   plaiting a few strands, Monino came up with the idea of
>   weaving hair to create a new style of underwear. After an
>   extensive process of thorough cleaning and weeks of careful
>   weaving, Monino has created a matching bra and panty set out
>   of human hair and is selling them for over $3,000 per set.
>   The undergarments are highly priced due to the arduous pro-
>   cess of creating each pair. One question remains: Are they
>   to be taken to the dry cleaners or the beauty salon?
>
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 12 00:41:38 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:42:53 -0700
Status: RO

I dunno....<g>
The only acetates I've deliberately purchased were lining fabrics for
late-16th c. outfits.  And lemmee tell you....about 50% of it just
hasn't been worth it! (function of quality, not cost).  One bodice has
been re-done 3 different times, because the acetate shredded so badly
along the seams, and this was *with* the proper seam treatment!
I have some silks, but will be using them for different purposes (not
lining), so I can't do a direct comparison on usefulness.
There are some really good synthetics out there that fool my sense of
touch, especially "sueded" fabrics.  Don't fool my sense of smell,
though! (There's just *something* about the smell of silk or
wool....mmmmm....)
--sue

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> Speaking of which...
> 
> Well, we've been talking about the difference between wool and poly
> imitations, but not about the difference between, say, acetate and real
> silk.  What are the differences there, in terms of feel, drape, etc.?
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 12 00:50:27 2002
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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 05:51:00 +0000
Status: RO

Deredere -

What a lovely gown - I especially like the sleeves. One Day (tm) I'll do a 
gown with that sleeve style...

Mary/Katerine

>I made a 16th century gown out of synthetic fabric.
>The fabric looks a bit like velvet with a very short pool, but at the back 
>the fabric is a totally different colour.
>I used it try out the pattern for my weddingdress. I never ment to wear it, 
>but I did and got a lot of compliments.
>The day that I wore it, it was a very hot day but I didn't had any problems 
>with it.
>Here are pictures of the dress and the fabric
>http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/16thdress.html
>
>Greetings,
>        Deredere
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 12 00:54:14 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 05:53:13 +0000
Status: RO

I'm not Robin either, but I got some gorgeous lightweight wool for $% a yard 
here -

http://www.fashionfabricsonline.com/home/index.cfm

Mary/Katerine

>>Robin - where do you find 100% wool online that isn't pinstripe or plaid?
>I'm obviously not looking in the right places :-)
>
>**********************
>Rebecca Schmitt
>aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
>Bristol,
>BRF FOF
>
>So many books, so little time
>
>lotsofteapots@charter.net
>**********************
>
>
>
> > But if you're looking at $4.00 and up, I think you'll ultimately be
> > happier if you hold out for at least a wool blend. For even a dollar 
>more
> > a yard you can often get plenty of nice 100% wools online. And I've 
>found
> > wool gabardines on the clearance section at Jo-Ann's for less than 
>you're
> > thinking of paying for this poly.
> >
> > --Robin
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 00:17:54 -0600 (CST)
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On Thu, 12 Dec 2002, Mary Temple wrote:

> I'm not Robin either, but I got some gorgeous lightweight wool for $%
> a yard here -
> 
> http://www.fashionfabricsonline.com/home/index.cfm

Mary's apparently the one who bought up the teal wool I was agonizing
over. And a good thing for me, too, as the last thing I need is more
greenish stuff. I look wretched in green. But the wool was SOOO gorgeous.
(It's sold out and technically no longer accessible on the site, but you
can see it here:
<http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_items.cfm?Query=teal+wool>)

--Robin


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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:41:11 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

"Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com> wrote:
> 
> Acetate also can eventually change color unevenly -- one of my first 1860's
> ballgowns was made of purple acetate moire, and it eventually (after 5-8
> years) turned pink in the folds of the skirt.  I remember this topic coming
> up on the list , and it seemed the consensus was that acetate just does
> this, and that there's no way to prevent/repair the damage.

Agreed.  I made some blue acetate sashes a couple years back, and within
a year, they had turned from cobalt blue to a sort of blue-grey.  We went
with raw silk this time around (especially since Faultline chose flaming
orange for their sash colors).

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:07:55 +0000
Status: RO

Diane S. wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>>     If the bridge to the next year is the same as the bridge to the new
>millennium, whichever year it was, there's not much to worry about. 

The Millennium Bridge that Stevie referred to is a notorious footbridge opened in London in 2000, but immediately closed because it wobbled too much when walked upon. I believe it has since been altered and re-opened.


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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:14:26 +0000
Status: RO

Cathy wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>>  However, your problem is always finding scholars who understand both >>the latin and the costume - they may know that pilum means something >>worn on the head, but can they distinguish it from other types of >>hat/cap/veil/hood....?

>?  I thought a pilum was a type of javelin.

A quick check of my colleague's Latin dictionary gives pilum=spear, pilleus=cap. Maybe they were spelling it differently by the 16th century.


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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:23:21 +0000
Status: RO

Thankyou for the info on medieval latin Jean. I think I'm going to have to 
try  and find a teacher as I've now come  up against 17th century court 
records in latin. I don't even know much classical latin!

I've just finished reading an article about the Linen industry in East 
Anglia and discovered that linen can be made from hemp,( forgive me if I'm 
teaching my Nana to suck eggs!) infact they say that a lot of people grew 
just a small ammount for their own use (fabrics of course;-0). And of course 
towns such as Hemel Hempstead were named from locally grown hemp.

I had come across hempen cloth in records, wills and inventories but had 
thought it meant cloth used for sacks etc. but according to this article 
hemp was used, as flax was, to make all grades of cloth.  I wonder about 
hemps dyeing properties? Perhaps it was easier to dye with hemp? And 
goodness knows how many items in inventories are hempen rather than flaxen. 
I had a quick look at some of my inventories thinking perhaps that flaxen 
fabric was reffered to as 'linen' but I found a few examples of flaxen 
linen.

My gut reaction is that hempen cloth was possibly used by those people lower 
down the social scale?

I came across this site last night and I've ordered some samples. The fabric 
looks lovely. I can't wait to see the samples.

http://www.hemptraders.com/

Does anyone have more information?

regards

Joy





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Subject: [h-cost] Cheep Trims offer
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:02:11 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

http://www.cheeptrims.com/

Cheeptrims are offering 10% discount for online sales only; the code
HLTDA
should be entered in the checkout.

best wishes
Stevie


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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 07:06:37 -0700
Status: RO

Uh, Drea....I think you win the award for most complicated single
project! That tailor's book sounds completely cool!
I assume you've figured in time to eat, sleep, work???
--Maire, who's got her own (moderate-length) list because she needs new
clothes, and who wants to be a research geek when she grows up <g>....

Drea Leed wrote:
> 
>
> Once those four things are out of the way, I'll be able to work on my
> "Tailor's Book" project--creating a tailor's book that may concievably
> have been used by a London tailor of the 1580s.  It'll have sample garment
> patterns from all existing 16th & early 17th c. tailor's books I can get
> my hands on, some tailor's patterns back-engineered from garments in
> Arnold & elsewhere, a sample apprenticeship contract and customer bill, a
> list of where to get what materials at the best prices, a list of costs
> for generic tasks and items (hat, stays, etc.),  a receipt book & some
> IOUs, drawings of various pinking & trim patterns for doublets, a sonnet
> on the tailoring trade, the requisite charts for converting fabric widths
> & lengths, and whatever else I can think to put in it.  Written in
> secretary hand on linen paper with oak gall ink with a quill pen.  Fun fun
> fun!  Whee!  (God, I am such a research geek. :P)
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 project
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:45:10 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


What a wonderful chance!  I've always wanted to set up my own tailor's
shop display.  Tell me, aside from the ruler found on the Mary Rose and
the ell stick on the cover of Alcega, have you found any sources for
measuring sticks?  Did you base it on the reproduction at the Globe
theatre? Have you ever experimented with parchment measuring strips and
drafting patterns from them? What particular year or decade are you
re-enacting?

This whole tailor's book idea came from a similar idea for a presentation,
where I would set up a tailor's shop and talk with my "apprentice" about
the various aspects of the tailoring trade, and then invite one of the
audience up to be a "customer." I thought it would be exceptionally cool
to get a copy of Alcega rebound in 16th c. bindings.  Then I thought It'd
be even cooler to write a book myself....and I was doomed...

Would your friend ever consider making some of those pleat clamps to sell?
That would be something I'd really love to have. Seriously.  And Ditto
poking sticks. And brass-bound ell sticks.

Thanks,

Drea

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] next years projects
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 08:51:15 -0600
Status: RO

>>80's bow butt codpiece?

There is a style of German Renn codpieces where the codpiece is slashed in 
a couple of places on either side and fabric is pulled through.  In the 
more extreme cases, huge swags of fabric are pulled through, looking 
rather like a gigantic bow - one that reminds me of the 80's fashion of 
evening dresses with huge bows on the back of the dress (just what I 
needed - a bigger rear).

-Magdalena
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This is a subject that I have been meaning to bring up so I guess this =
is the time, as it seems to be the topic of the hour.                    =
                           I was just in the winter closet and in my =
finds was a burnout velvet that I made up several; years ago.  It was =
black to begin with and now the  velvet is becoming a deep burgundy =
purple color.  I thought it was tending that way when I put it away last =
spring.  Another dress (historical: worn by a Governor's wife to FDR's =
4th inaugural ball) has gone from a nice slate grey to pink. It is rayon =
crepe, with the most interesting beading with a spiderweb motif in large =
size on the back and front from bust to hem done in grey-silver lined =
glass and steel beads. It was stunning, alas. I will keep it of course =
and use it to illustrate the fragility of color ,and of course, the =
beading design.                                                          =
                         Have any of the rest of you noted what is =
happening to the bonded fabrics that were the new thing in the =
1960-1980's? The foam beneath the tricot has a shelf life and turns to =
powder.  Beware of metallic and wools that were treated in this manner.  =
Through the years I have been picking up fashion items that I thought =
would be indicative of certain periods of the Twentieth Century for my =
collection, in part because there are so many new fabrics that have been =
discovered or developed in  this period.                                 =
                     When I look at clothing from the first half of the =
century, particularly the teens and twenties, I am much aware of the =
different grades of silk used for linings or outer fabrics. Even here =
the designers were looking for new uses that hadn't been thought of or =
were trying to cut cost by using a cheaper grade of silk  (wool, linen =
cotton)  If you notice the beautiful chiffon's and velvets of the =
20-30's, you encounter most of the time the "real thing". Rayon was just =
beginning to come into it's own just before the War, and of course it =
was eclipsed at the close of the was when war time industries retooled =
for exploiting fibers that had been developed  for the war =
industry...like nylon and dacron.  (These garments by the way show no =
sign of disintegrating in our life                                    =
During the 70's and 80's I was using poly knits and quiana(!) for =
proscenium theatre with some interesting results.  It draped well, came =
in 60" widths and was machine washable.  The monks wear I made at that =
time are STILL going strong. My best stage wedding gown is quiana and =
can be washed after every performance.  But even with this fabric, there =
were obviously poor-good-better grades .                                 =
                         Kathleen                                        =
                                                                         =
                                                  =20

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is a subject that I have been meaning to bring =
up=20
so&nbsp;I guess this is the time, as it seems to be the topic of the=20
hour.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
I was just in the winter closet and in my finds was a burnout velvet =
that I made=20
up several; years ago.&nbsp; It was black to begin with and now =
the&nbsp; velvet=20
is becoming a deep burgundy purple color.&nbsp; I thought it was tending =
that=20
way when I put it away last spring.&nbsp; Another dress (historical: =
worn by a=20
Governor's wife to FDR's 4th inaugural ball) has gone from a nice slate =
grey to=20
pink. It is rayon crepe, with the most interesting beading with a =
spiderweb=20
motif in large size on the back and front from bust to hem done in =
grey-silver=20
lined glass and steel beads. It was stunning, alas. I will keep it of =
course and=20
use it to illustrate the fragility of color ,and of course, the beading=20
design.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Have any of the rest of you noted =
what is=20
happening to the bonded fabrics that were the new thing in the =
1960-1980's? The=20
foam beneath the tricot has a shelf life and turns to powder.&nbsp; =
Beware of=20
metallic and wools that&nbsp;were treated in this manner.&nbsp; Through =
the=20
years I have been picking up fashion&nbsp;items that I thought would be=20
indicative of certain periods of the&nbsp;Twentieth Century for my =
collection,=20
in part because there are so many new fabrics that have been discovered =
or=20
developed in&nbsp; this period.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;When I look=20
at clothing from the first half of the century, particularly the teens =
and=20
twenties, I am much aware of the different grades of silk used for =
linings=20
or&nbsp;outer fabrics. Even here the designers were looking for new uses =
that=20
hadn't been thought of or were trying to cut cost by using a cheaper =
grade of=20
silk&nbsp;&nbsp;(wool, linen cotton)&nbsp; If you notice the beautiful =
chiffon's=20
and velvets of the 20-30's, you encounter most of the time the "real =
thing".=20
Rayon was just beginning to come into it's own just before the&nbsp;War, =
and of=20
course it was eclipsed at the close of the was when war time industries =
retooled=20
for exploiting fibers that had been developed&nbsp; for the war =
industry...like=20
nylon and dacron.&nbsp; (These garments by the way show no sign of=20
disintegrating in our=20
life&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; During the 70's and 80's&nbsp;I was using =
poly=20
knits and quiana(!) for proscenium theatre with some interesting =
results.&nbsp;=20
It draped well, came in 60" widths and was machine washable.&nbsp; The =
monks=20
wear&nbsp;I made at that time are STILL going strong. My best stage =
wedding gown=20
is quiana and can be washed after every performance.&nbsp; But even with =
this=20
fabric, there were obviously poor-good-better grades&nbsp;. =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Kathleen&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: Grace Morris <gmorris@providenceday.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] 3 costume books at once, e-bay/COMPARE!
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:46:30 -0500
Status: RO

>> "3 COSTUME HISTORY BOOKS-ONE PRICE-WOW! Item # 1904267608"
>> 
>> It says: "Here are three classics of costume history: 20,000 YEARS OF
>> FASHION by Boucher,
>From bookfinder.com: 26 copies, ranging from 12.95 (poor) to 75.00 (first
ed.)
>>HISTORY OF COSTUME by Blanche Payne
28 copies, ranging from 14.5 (poor) to 100.00 (first ed.)

>>and THE BOOK OF
>> COSTUME by Mila Davenport"
>From abebooks.com:  41 copies, ranging from 41.00- 161.00 (first)

Jessamyn
(I can't STAND the way an e-bay auction can jack up prices!!

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 12 11:48:32 2002
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 projects
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 08:52:07 -0800
Status: RO

Oh, heavens.  The projects for the next year:

Professional:  Produce the Elizabehtan Comfort Package (kirtle and loose
gown) and scale down the Lady's and Gentleman'n patterns to create the
Elizabethan Girl and the Elizabethan Boy.  Do a second edition of the
Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe, this time incorporating intructions for using
the patterns to create lower class costume.  Work with Drea to create the
16th Century Flemish Market Woman's package.  Look for additional capital
to make all of the above possible (any potential investors out there, feel
free to contact me!) 

Personal:  Make myself a kirtle and loose gown, fitted for wear without a
corset since a medical problem which excludes my wearing one tends to flare
up unexpectedly.  Make several different middle classish bodice and skirt
combinations with various sleeves, foreparts, etc, and various accessories
which will be suitable for SCA camping, and for teaching and lecturing when
I don't want the costume to distract from what I'm saying.  Also, make an
1870's bustle dress, prefereably in garnet taffeta, which  will make me
look like I run the best House in town. 

Family:  Make Wayne a new  Elizabethan noble's suit, and a long gown to go
over it, trimmed with mink.  Make Wayne the washed rayon swashbuckler's
shirt I've been promising him for three years.  Make Jamie a new
Elizabethan suit, and new tiger pajamas.  Make Robbie an Elizabethan suit,
with lots of gold and jewels (his request). Perform surgery on a stuffed
tiger to remove the no longer functioning tickle/giggle mechanism, which
hurts so much when one hits one's brother with said tiger.

Home:  Use the 45 yards of brocade I got at a thrift store for $20 to make
a canopy and curtains for our bed.  

Costume related:  Completely re-vamp the One Tough Costumer website, adding
illustrations.  Work up syllabus for, and teach, a workshop on "Beyond Home
Sewing:  Costume Techniques from History, Theater, and Industry".  Go on
the lecture/workshop  circuit with this one and the "Quenching the Wench"
lecture.  Act as Costume Mistress and Children's Activities advisor for a
Renaissance Faire.  

Yikes!

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric swatch books
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:49:11 -0000
Status: RO

On 10 Dec 2002 at 0:22, Janet Davis wrote:

> When I clicked on the link to Amazon, I recognized the cover right
> off. Last summer at Pennsic, Poison Pen Press, who merchants with me
> and 2 other booksellers in the Booksellers Row tent, was carrying
> that.  I recalled that she had more copies than she wanted at the end
> of Pennsic, so I e-mailed her.
> 
> She has that series - the silk book lists for $35, the wool book for
> $45 and the cotton book for $40 (only 1 copy of the cotton book
> remains).  She is willing to offer them at a reduced price to the list
> members - $5 off the list price and free shipping. 


She now has no copies of the cotton book, and one 
less of the wool book, because they are moving 
slowly in my direction. Thanks!



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:11:01 -0500
Status: RO

I have several pair of pinking shears.
    Fiskars pinking
    Kleencut----don't remember where they came from, but they seem to be
decent quality
    Wiss-----both pinking and scalloping--the best quality

        Wiss used to be the market standard for fabric shears, made in
Switzerland as I recall.  Fiskars seemed to have forced them off the market
somehow, are they Danish?  But I think Wiss may still be in business.
    I also have a pair of really good shears made by Singer, mmm, 70's I
guess.

    My husband sharpened at least 2 pr. of pointed pinking shears for me,
and I think I took a pair to the store and had them done one time also.
    You can get them.  They cost a little more than straight shears, but
they'll last a lifetime.  Longer, in fact, I have my mother's shears too.
    Major improvement on the hammer and chisel deal, believe me, although
that still is the way to go on leather or very heavy materials.

Diane S.

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:24:16 -0500
Status: RO

Margo, please let me know when the Elizabethan Comfort Package is
available.  I love your E Ladie's wardrobe and would like to have
something reasonably comfortable to wear.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Gwyn Carnegie <gacarnegie@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Dress detail : pinking
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:08:03 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_183273765==.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


They are still in business. I got my last pair of scallop shears in LA at 
Vechialliri (sp?) . Someone in the garment industry will hopefully know the 
correct spelling and contact info for them.

At 01:11 PM 12/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I have several pair of pinking shears.
>        Wiss-----both pinking and scalloping--the best quality
>         Wiss used to be the market standard for fabric shears, made in
>Switzerland as I recall.  Fiskars seemed to have forced them off the market
>somehow, are they Danish?  But I think Wiss may still be in business.
>Diane S.

Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis

--=====================_183273765==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<body>
<br>
They are still in business. I got my last pair of scallop shears in LA at
Vechialliri (sp?) . Someone in the garment industry will hopefully know
the correct spelling and contact info for them.<br><br>
At 01:11 PM 12/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I have several pair of pinking
shears.<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiss-----both pinking and
scalloping--the best quality<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wiss used to be the market
standard for fabric shears, made in<br>
Switzerland as I recall.&nbsp; Fiskars seemed to have forced them off the
market<br>
somehow, are they Danish?&nbsp; But I think Wiss may still be in
business.<br>
Diane S.<br>
</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis <br>
</font></b></body>
</html>

--=====================_183273765==.ALT--

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:08:32 -0500
Status: RO

At 1:42 PM -0800 12/12/02, Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
>New Renn Faire Costumes -
>White Damask Noble, trimmed in blue for me (As soon as Margo gets the
>pattern done)
>New green wench costume for Heidi (I try, really I do!),
>A red velvet long gown for Raymond, (he is walking so it's out of lower
>class into noble, his Mom can play wet nurse.)
>Add more trim and beads to Dizzy's Green Man Costume
>Start work on the Holly King and the Oak King for Dizzy (Can't tell he
>likes the Green Man)

Oooo! I'd LOVE to see pics of the Green Man outfits! They sound so intriguing!

-Amanda
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: next year's projects
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 08:16:07 -0500
Status: RO

A bit late, but I've spent the last couple of weeks trying to catch up on 
mail that backlogged during a week-long business trip followed by the 
Thanksgiving week/end...

I have a list a mile long, but don't think I'm likely to get to more than 
the first couple of items. Highest on the priority list are:

garbly:
---------
fit/cut/sew 1 mid-Elizabethan, middle-class, "from the skin out" for Frank 
(waiting for Margo's pattern to arrive... and yes, Margo, I can wait 'til 
the new Gregorian year)

fit/cut/sew 1 mid-Elizabethan gown, middle-class, not sure specifics on 
style yet, for me

prewash un-prewashed stash items; photograph and log in existing MSAccess 
database; update database with "final dispositions" of stash fabrics used 
and not yet logged out (can you tell I work mundanely in a library-related 
field?)

mundanely:
----------------
sew black wool blouse (already cut out from Butterick 3417, not sure if/how 
it will fit), needing me to create sleeve stays for it to have the correct look

draft/cut/smock/sew fluid black wool blouse with hand-smocked yoke and 
front gathering

cut/sew fluid skirt and slacks to match above blouses

draft/fit/cut/sew a customized business-suit-style vest that will hold all 
Frank's electronic gadgets and not collapse under the weight of them


Then as time permits:

garbly:
---------
fit/cut/sew 2-3 partlets for me, not sure of styles yet

repair my red linen Elizabethan and see if I can take it in enough to wear; 
if not, find a good home for it

backsmock my hand-smocked Burnham camicia to bring in the neckline a bit; 
alternatively, re-pleat and re-smock said neckline

fit/cut/sew middle-class Tudors (circa 1530) for both Frank and myself

fit/cut/sew possible second set of Elizabethans

cut/sew 2-3 new smocks for me, varying styles; any smocking done by hand 
and based on period portraiture

design/fit/cut/sew something turn-of-the-16th-Century, possibly revisiting 
that same Venetian dress that I've already made twice and worn only to 
photograph (long story)...

mundanely:
--------------
fit/cut/sew a business suit for Frank

fit/cut/sew custom-fit chinos for both of us (at least 1 pair each)


I'll probably tackle some of the mundane and alteration projects first, 
since I'm expecting the fitting targets for the garb to continue to move 
downward as the new year progresses.


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: [h-cost] brown polished cotton
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 15:33:35 -0500
Status: RO


Better late than never...
Brown polished cotton is available at Needle & Thread in Gettysburg, PA 
(USA). They do not have a website, but will do mail order. Their phone 
number is (717)334-4011. I believe it runs in the range of $8/yard. They are 
very lovely people to deal with. Hope this can be of help to some.
Now returning to lurkdom
     Kelly   (Thinking of the 20 yards of brown polished cotton I purchased 
in Chicago for $2/yard several years ago and have been carefully allocating 
for "worthy" projects)




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 13 19:47:11 2002
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 10:58:56 -0500
Status: RO

I first subscribed to this mailing list in the mid-1990s, and although I
was on it for about a year I didn't find it very useful.  I was fairly
focussed on wanting information about Elizabethan clothing, and I was
put off by the amount of stuff that just didn't apply to me.  Eventually
I unsubscribed.

In early 2001, I resubscribed.  By this time, I was more confident in
the area of costuming I was doing for myself, and knew where to find
specialised resources on the subject.  I was able to relax and enjoy the
range of topics covered here.  I've loved all kinds of costumes,
especially the "big skirts" periods (Tudor through Edwardian, excluding
Regency), since I dug through costuming books in the school library in
6th grade, and here I get to see a lot of that!

Thank you all for posting information about your projects and your
sources.  It's great to see what other people are up to, and to peruse
the pictures of original costumes that are posted.  Now I just have to
find excuses for making some post-1600 stuff!

On another note, the "flame" thing: I don't find this list very
flame-heavy, but there are often heated discussions.  What's the
difference?  Well, to me a "heated discussion" happens when people
disagree and are trying to communicate their viewpoints and explain why
they disagree with each other.  A flame war, on the other hand, is when
it degenerates into name-calling and mud-slinging, without anything
useful being added to the discussion.  I've never seen this list go
there.  As someone who's been using the Internet for many years, and who
participates in many technical forums, I'm used to the rough-and-tumble
atmosphere and can usually hold my own in a flamewar.  But I think
there's something to be said for the theory (and it's not my theory,
it's someone else's, but I can't remember what article it was that i was
reading) that mailing lists with a majority of female members have a
very different dynamic to those with mostly male members.  Let's face
it, most of us women are taught to be less assertive and to avoid
confrontation.  That could be why some people interpret our heated
discussions as flamewars, and may be unwilling to expose themselves to
that kind of heat.

Yours,

Kirrily
(SCA: Katherine Rowberd)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 18:58:28 +0000
Status: RO



> Unfortunately, the victorians _loved_ color combinations that we would
> consider hideous.

Absolutely correct.

>   I saw a very similar dress made up in violet and fuschia.
> It was horrible, but very, very period.  Somewhere, I have a book that a
> writer from the period bemoans english women's lack of taste in colors.

Seems to have been more universal that merely English taste when you get 
to see examples from other countries.

> Since all the photos we have from the period are black and white, we 
> sometimes
> forget what colors were actually used.

Very true.I've often wondered how much we the viewers superimpose our 
own colour tastes when looking at those black and white photos?

>   I've seen plenty of dresses from
> that period that combine colors like brown and blue and purple all in 
> the
> same dress.

Ditto.You shudder at some of the combinations and wonder just who would 
be able to look good in those colours.

>   I agree the roses are too bright, they'd probably be a more
> realistic color.  However, the big pattern companies do their designs 
> with
> availability of trims in mind.  You _can_ find better roses, but you 
> have
> to hunt a bit.

The pity with this as in most quality products is that price tag shows 
it unless you're very lucky.
>
> One other oddity of victorian ballgowns is that often the flowers in 
> the hair
> were artificial, but the flowers on the gown might be real.  The exact
> opposite of what we'd do.

Yes its was a peculiarity of the period.

>  They also liked doing things like combining lace
> and fur trims in a manner that we'd find hideous.

Indeed.The first time I found a fashion plate and portrait with this 
combination it took me a while to get used to it.Very odd.

Marcus.

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Subject: [h-cost] Everyone's projects
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 20:16:46 -0800
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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It is very interesting to hear of everyone's projects or ideas for the =
next year.  I think it should encourage those new at this hobby who =
might feel that there are so many experts here that there is no place =
left for them to shine.  The possibilites, projects and areas to =
research areas are simply endless.


Lisa Sinervo


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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It is very interesting to hear of =
everyone's=20
projects or ideas for the next year.&nbsp; I think it should encourage =
those new=20
at this hobby who might feel that there are so many experts here that =
there is=20
no place left for them to shine.&nbsp; The possibilites, projects and =
areas to=20
research areas are simply endless.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lisa =
Sinervo<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] 4th Cent. bishop's pattern
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 09:30:23 -0500
Status: RO

Hi!

I am coming out of the lurking mode to ask the list for help.  Up to 
now I have not been able to find a pattern.  I am looking for a 
fairly good pattern for a bishop's costume particularly for the 4th 
century or a pattern that could be adapted.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Ruth Williams
Rochester, NY
williams@ece.rochester.edu
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:32:47 +0000
Status: RO

Hi,

I have been member of this list for some months but too busy to 
write. 12th of October Julie had a question about a ballgown (?) and 
accessories in Pattern of Fashion part 2. I guess you are talking 
about the one worn by Ms Wyatt? The gown is in Platt Hall in 
Manchester. I went up to look at it after a student at Copenhagen 
Cutter's Academy had made a copy of it some years ago. I am sure the 
museum would be delighted if they could help you.

Bo
Historian Textiles and Dress

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 4th Cent. bishop's pattern
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 18:44:28 -0800
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At 9:30 AM -0500 12/10/02, RuthAnn Williams wrote:
>Hi!
>
>I am coming out of the lurking mode to ask the list for help.  Up to 
>now I have not been able to find a pattern.  I am looking for a 
>fairly good pattern for a bishop's costume particularly for the 4th 
>century or a pattern that could be adapted.

Speaking in wildly vast generalizations, from what I've been able to 
research, in the 4th century Christian vestments had not yet 
significantly diverged from ordinary "formal wear", and are likely to 
have been more diverse across Christendom than they later became as 
things got more formalized and regularized.  So I suspect that, at 
the period you're interested in, the geographic location will be 
fairly significant.

(For the practicalities of patterns, you're probably going to be in 
luck, as we're still talking about relatively geometric structures.)

Heather

-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 20:33:55 -0800
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>

>
> What a wonderful chance!  I've always wanted to set up my own tailor's
> shop display.

Yes, it is a wonderful opportunity.  I happened to meet some folks in a
small and new guild that portray university students too poor to have their
own university so they meet in the Lazy Fox Tavern.  Very nice people, but
that is not what I wanted to do.  But they happen to have a fabulous two
story wooden structure for their inn.  It had an unused side which is being
turned into my tailor's shop.  It is the beginning of a town square.

Tell me, aside from the ruler found on the Mary Rose and
> the ell stick on the cover of Alcega, have you found any sources for
> measuring sticks?  Did you base it on the reproduction at the Globe
> theatre?

I based the ell on the Alcega drawning, The woodcut from from Geometria y
tracia, by diego de Freyle, 1588, and Jost Amman & Hans Sachs - The Tailor
woodcut - 1568.  The descriptions  by and quoted  by Janet Arnold in her
patterns of Fashion book, pg 124 were also incorporated.  Included here for
those on the list

"The ell is generally marked on a wooden ruler one inch wide and half an
inch thick.  It is divided on both sides of its length, on one side into
four quarters, the last quarter into two eights, the last eighth into two
sixteenths.  On the opposite side it is divided into thirds, the last third
into two sixths and the last sixth into two twelfths.  The divisions are
usually marked with golden nails.  Both sides are edged with iron or copper
to keep it permanently true."

I also did some general internet searches on the history of measurement.


Have you ever experimented with parchment measuring strips and
> drafting patterns from them?

No, but I am about to as soon as my ell arrives.  It is my intention to make
custom fitted patterns at the fair using parchment strips, an ell, a
compass, a pencil and brown paper or perhaps cheap linen.  I will measure my
customer with the parchment strips and make the pattern on the spot with
period technology.  I am going to practice on the dress form that I just
ordered from Hancock fabrics when it went on sale over thanksgiving.  Will
probably try out a few of Alecega's patterns as I will have that rebound and
will be using it too.  I plan to make them up, waxing the edges so they
don't fray, etc.......they will be in the shop on display.  I am also going
to make a merchant's outfit for myself, but I am going to try out Margo's
patterns for that to see what the rage is all about.

What particular year or decade are you re-enacting?

I originally thought I would do whatever time period the fair organizers
proclaimed the fair to be.  But as I want to have my services priced
accurately to the time period, I have decided that initially I need to pick
one time and stick to it.  I am researching the best year to choose when
ruffs, blackwork and lace were all seen, even if in various heights of
popularity.  Probably around your time period.  Ironing a ruff with poking
sticks would be a real crowd pleaser I think.   So long as the fair
organizers allow me to heat up some coal.

I thought it would be exceptionally cool
> to get a copy of Alcega rebound in 16th c. bindings.  Then I thought It'd
> be even cooler to write a book myself....and I was doomed...

I think your book will be very successful.  I have had a very encouraging
response from the few people I have so far shared my idea with.  It would be
great to see more "merchants" and people involved in period industry at the
fair.  If you put out a book, tailors shops might show up all over.  They
would be a great addition to any fair.  The other positive angle to this is
if you haven't finished a garment in time to wear it to fair, it can still
be a prop, a garment in progress.  I intend to have all stages of clothing
in the shop.  Fabric, works in progress, and garments ready to be collected.
>
> Would your friend ever consider making some of those pleat clamps to sell?
> That would be something I'd really love to have. Seriously.  And Ditto
> poking sticks. And brass-bound ell sticks.

Yes of course!  My friend Julian Daniels is a professional period
woodworker.  That is how he earns his living.  He makes period furnature for
movies, museums, re-enactors and collectors.  The next movie with Brad Pitt
and Kate Blanchett, title undecided, has Brad Pitt sitting in one of his
chairs.  It is great to work with him, because he is a re-enactor himself
and understands what re-enactors want.  He also makes chopine blanks and
wonderful hinged pattens.
His web site is http://merchants-medieval.com/cockerel/

>
> Thanks,
>
> Drea
>

You are very welcome.

Lisa



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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 04:11:10 -0500
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Okay, I pieced two images together and now you can see a full view of the
second quilt block I made.  http://www.costumegallery.com/Quilt/block2.jpg

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 09:23:32 -0700
Status: RO

Penny, I must have missed your initial post on this, but the quilt block
lools wonderfully exotic! *Somebody's* going to be really lucky!
--sue, who'd love to make another quilt one of these days!;o)


> <penny@costumegallery.com>
> To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:11 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] 2nd Quilt Block: Full View
> 
> > Okay, I pieced two images together and now you can see a full view of the
> > second quilt block I made.  http://www.costumegallery.com/Quilt/block2.jpg
> >
> > Penny Ladnier
> > Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Leather (a second time)
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 11:26:57 -0500
Status: RO

I didn't see my post from yesterday so I'm trying this again. My 
daughter has decided to wear my leather skirt to the dance tonight, 
but its wrinkled after being folded in the drawer for a while, How do 
I press it?

Linda K-S
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 14 11:48:44 2002
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leather (a second time)
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 08:51:29 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:26 AM 12/14/2002 -0500, Linda Krecker-Schkred wrote:
>I didn't see my post from yesterday so I'm trying this again. My 
>daughter has decided to wear my leather skirt to the dance tonight, 
>but its wrinkled after being folded in the drawer for a while, How do 
>I press it?

With a dry iron, using a press cloth, on a medium to high setting. If that
doesn't do the job, try using steam, on the back of the leather if possible.  

If the hems or seam allowances are glued, the heat of the iron may cause
them to come unstuck.  They can be glued back in place with ordinary rubber
cement or with contact cement.

Dyed leather isn't always color fast, so you might want to put an old towel
on your ironing board.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2nd Quilt Block: Full View
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:57:03 -0500
Status: RO

Sue,

I am thinking about teaching a beginners class on how to make this quilt.
It is really easy, all you have to do is to be able to sew straight lines
and love to do jigsaw puzzles.  When I made the second block, I scanned each
step, in case I do the class.  In the 80s, I gave private sewing lessons and
really loved it.

If I was making this years ago, I would have went into my perfectist (sp)
mode and made sure all the bamboo trellis matched up.  But since my back
went bad, I am just happy to be able to stitch the blocks.  I used to love
the challenge of matching up directional prints.  If I was making it for
competition I would nit-pick on it more.  But I know Andy would never even
notice.  So why kill myself.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Sewing Day - Last Notice!!!
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Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 16:48:41 -0700
Status: RO



Hello all

The shire of Danegeld Tor will be hosting a Stitch and Bitch for 
everyone needing to work on costumes for 12th Night or for any other 
reason on Dec 15th from 10 AM to 6 PM. It will be held in the 
community hall at the Arden Library, directions are below. 

There are plenty of tables to cut out on, and plugs everywhere for 
your machines and irons.

I will have my books there, patterns, and fabric for sale. If you are 
interested in selling your spare fabric bring it along for our sale 
table.

I will also have Vintage Clothes and some large used costumes for Sale 
for those who are interested

So mark your calendars, this will be your chance to sew without 
interruptions. Danegeld Tor will be providing Mulled Cider, and 
cookies. If you want to bring some thing for everyone to munch on 
please feel free.
   
Directions: 
>From the East, take Hwy-50 or I-80 West to the Watt Ave. exit. 
>From the West, take Hwy-50 or I-80 East to the Watt Ave. Exit. 
>From Hwy-50 take Watt Ave. North, past Fair Oaks Blvd., to Northrop 
Ave. 
>From I-80 take Watt Ave. South, past Arden Blvd. to Northrop Ave. 
The Arden-Dimick Library is on the corner of Watt Ave. and Northrop 
Ave. 
>From the North or South take I-5 or Hyw-99 to either Hyw-50 or I-80 
and then follow the instructions above.


Lord Vich - Stephen Bergdahl
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: rayon as artificial silk
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 22:19:19 -0500
Status: RO

Ann wrote:

> Rayon was, I believe, first marketed as artificial silk because the inventors
> reasoned that, if silk worms ate mulberry leaves and extruded a fiber, humans
> could do something similar.

Ugh! I don't think I'd want to spin THAT, much less wear it!!!

:-)

Gail Finke


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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:54:16 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Just to liven the place up a bit - I know, I am silent too, most untypical for
me, but we are off to Germany for a couple of weeks after watching The Two
Towers on Wednesday (only to watch TTT on Thursday again in germany *BG*) and
there's still a lot to organise beforehand.

here some of the Barbie doll historical costume pix that people made, I love
them! Beware, the photos are BIG:

Elizabethan:
http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-elizabethan.jpg

Gone with the Wind:
http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-gonewiththewind.jpg

Medieval:
http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-medieval.jpg

Victorian:
http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-victorian.jpg

Enjoy!
Nicole



=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 15 11:42:48 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] High-end wools
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:41:46 -0500
Status: RO

On Thursday, 12 Dec 2002 14:31:14 -0600 (CST), Robin Netherton 
<robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

>I lately stumbled on a trade source (New York) of some really
>lovely-looking wool fabric. It's out of my price range, but if anyone is
>doing high-end reproductions or museum work and needs the perfect
>color/weave, you might find it here:
>http://www.grabiewoolen.com/

Oooohhhhh...... aaaaahhhhhhh..... pretty...... and within a 20-min. bus or 
bicycle ride from Mom's place in Queens. (And to think I never knew they 
were there...)

>I inquired specifically about twill weaves in worsteds. The owner's son
>replied that they have these 2x2 twills in 100% Australian merino worsted
>wool: Gabardine, Flannel, Satin Gabardine, Cavalry, Twill and Satin Twill.
>Prices are $25.00 - $27.50 per yard for cut pieces (2 to 85 yards)

***2-yard*** and up cut pieces? <*eyes brighten; ears perk up*>

>Obviously not for the casual costumer, but anyone with a high-end client
>might want to bookmark this. These are very reasonable prices for things
>like wool satin.

Costumes, my @$$!!!!!

I want some of that wool satin for next winter's mundane "holiday party" 
ensemble (read "winter season semi-formal") -- you don't want to know how 
many times I've frozen my (expletive deleted) off in those (expletives 
deleted) skimpy synthetic things that are passed off as winter (expletive 
deleted) evening wear! Lessee... a nice tuxedo jacket in black wool twill, 
faced with wool satin; matching tuxedo pants; tuxedo-tailored short skirt 
(black); tailored long skirt in wool satin (black) with matching camisole; 
belled long skirt (color) with matching bodice and matching camisole; 
fitted tuxedo vest (black); fitted tuxedo vest (color)...

I'm only beginning to scratch the possibilities here!

OK, seriously, I just need the tuxedo jacket with the pants, the two black 
skirts, a shorter jacket (can't remember the technical name; it's sort-of 
weskit styled?), and a camisole or a vest to hold me for *at least* another 
decade (barring unforeseen major changes in weight...)

And then top the whole thing off with an evening cloak... lined in wool 
satin????

*grrr* Dom Perignon tastes, tap-water budget.

At least I won't have to pay shipping.

Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 10:56:12 -0600
Status: RO

These are beautiful! Are they for sale? They'd make fabulous holiday gifts.

T.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 8:54 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos


Just to liven the place up a bit - I know, I am silent too, most untypical
for
me, but we are off to Germany for a couple of weeks after watching The Two
Towers on Wednesday (only to watch TTT on Thursday again in germany *BG*)
and
there's still a lot to organise beforehand.

here some of the Barbie doll historical costume pix that people made, I love
them! Beware, the photos are BIG:

Elizabethan:
http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-elizabethan.jpg

Gone with the Wind:
http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-gonewiththewind.jpg

Medieval:
http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-medieval.jpg

Victorian:
http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-victorian.jpg

Enjoy!
Nicole



=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 15 12:01:46 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 17:01:04 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Talia <khanson@kc.rr.com> wrote: > These are beautiful! Are they for sale?
They'd make fabulous holiday gifts.

No, sorry I forgot to say that they are from the Burda pattern mag for Barbie
costumes, that is out of print, but I thought the list would enjoy the
costumes.

Nicole

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 15 13:28:37 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dye resources?
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "leigh tartaglio" at Dec 15, 2002 01:31:59 PM
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 10:28:34 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

http://www.sfherb.com/


> 
> Hi. You can try San Francisco Herb Company. I believe they are online,
> although I don't have their address to hand. We have gotten cream of tartar
> and madder root from them, as well as a number of other cooking and herbal
> items. They sell in large volumes and I think they have a 100 dollar minimum
> order. You can get a hardcopy catalog, too. Good Luck, Mike T.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:29:28 -0700
Status: RO

These are all Barbies that were for sale commercially in the last few
years.  I own these two:

> Elizabethan:
> http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-elizabethan.jpg
> 
> Medieval:
> http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-medieval.jpg

I also own the Napoleonic one, which isn't pictured in this group.

					...eliz
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:35:24 -0700
Status: RO

>  --- Talia <khanson@kc.rr.com> wrote: 
> These are beautiful! Are they for sale?
> They'd make fabulous holiday gifts.

You can find them on EBay for $15-$50 US.  Do a search for "Barbie
Great Eras".  Here's the Napoleonic one I mentioned:

  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1944611523


						..eliz
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 18:42:14 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote: > These are all Barbies that were
for sale commercially in the last few
> years.  I own these two:


Ahh! Thanks for the info, the mag didn't actually give this info, and that
would have been rather helpful. Anyway, I bet you enjoy your lovely Barbies.
:-)

Nicole

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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:40:11 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Nicole.
These are lovely, i mostly like the bustle dress, and the elizabethan one
:-)
I am planning to make a late Elizabethan one in the new year with a drum
shaped farthingale, open ruff and lovely cuffs.
I was so lucky to get my hands on some paper clay the other day, it is
available here in Denmark.
I want to make a fashion doll with a cloth body, and i think i want to make
it ½ a time bigger than Barbie, and then i can make a real period shaped
body, cause i model the body myself.
If they only had made Barbie with a corseted body, i would have made some
dresses years and years ago, but it looks so silly with these breasts.
(sorry ladies, no offence)



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 3:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos


> Just to liven the place up a bit - I know, I am silent too, most untypical
for
> me, but we are off to Germany for a couple of weeks after watching The Two
> Towers on Wednesday (only to watch TTT on Thursday again in germany *BG*)
and
> there's still a lot to organise beforehand.
>
> here some of the Barbie doll historical costume pix that people made, I
love
> them! Beware, the photos are BIG:
>
> Elizabethan:
> http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-elizabethan.jpg
>
> Gone with the Wind:
> http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-gonewiththewind.jpg
>
> Medieval:
> http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-medieval.jpg
>
> Victorian:
> http://www.kipar.org/h-costume/barbie-victorian.jpg
>
> Enjoy!
> Nicole
>
>
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:06:34 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > 
> If they only had made Barbie with a corseted body, i would have made some
> dresses years and years ago, but it looks so silly with these breasts.
> (sorry ladies, no offence)

*laughs* Oh Bjarne, how can anyone not love you to bits!

... and I SO agree. :-)

says she the so-so transgendered one.

Nicole

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Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:33:01 +0000
Status: RO

No offense taken! My first thought when looking at the Elizabethan Barbie 
was "if only they could do something about those breasts..."

:)

Mary/Katerine


>If they only had made Barbie with a corseted body, i would have made some
>dresses years and years ago, but it looks so silly with these breasts.
>(sorry ladies, no offence)
>
>


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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:50:31 -0500
Status: RO



N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Talia <khanson@kc.rr.com> wrote: > These are beautiful! Are they for sale?
> They'd make fabulous holiday gifts.
> 
> No, sorry I forgot to say that they are from the Burda pattern mag for Barbie
> costumes, that is out of print, but I thought the list would enjoy the
> costumes.
> 
> Nicole
> 


They make me wish I was Barbie. Beautiful! Did you make the gowns?

Di
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 16:50:09 +1300
Status: RO



> Just to liven the place up a bit - I know, I am silent too, most untypical
for
> me, but we are off to Germany for a couple of weeks after watching The Two
> Towers on Wednesday (only to watch TTT on Thursday again in germany *BG*)
and
> there's still a lot to organise beforehand.

Speaking of TTT and dolls.. I just purchased the Eowyn doll;)

Very interesting doll under all the clothes.. yes I did take a look:P

Nice to have a doll not frozen in limbs.. but.. well her bosom would put
barbie to shame;)

I am planning on redressing her as the costume pulls her shoulders out and
makes her look like some American football player;)

The face sculpt I do like though. She actually looks like the Eowyn
described as being cold and fair.

Now the other dolls are another matter;) Poor Liv Tyler is all I can say....

michaela


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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 08:59:48 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


Just thought I'd forward this on: I found a website for a woodworker that
makes the basic wooden forms for chopines! They're not in the catalog, but
there's a photo of some in his gallery.

http://merchants-medieval.com/cockerel/

Enjoy,

Drea

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Armory Stockholm
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 14:29:32 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Oh my goodness, Bjarne, those photios are HUGE, wonderful, gorgeous,
gobsmacking! *goes to download and drool* 
Must ahve book... must have book... *zombie-like*

Thanks so much for sending the link.

Nicole

 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi.
> There is an exhibition in Stockholm right now about male costumes from 16th
> to 18th century.
> They have a wonderfull museum catalog about the exhibition.
> Gosh it is so expensive to have this interrest, i just got What Clothes
> Reveal and Kyoto Costume book, + the catalog from Munic, heres another one i
> must have!!!
> There are wonderfull pictures here:
> http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Modelejon/Mode_start.htm
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 07:38:10 -0700
Status: RO


How funny!  I just bought the perfect fabric to re-create the pants in
#5, and it cost me $1/yd!  I actually bought it with baby clothes in
mind because it looks like it's hand-crocheted.

Too bad my husband's persona is Chinese ...

						...eliz

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 07:31:37 -0700
Status: RO

That is sooooo cool.  My friend Nola made some herself and I have been
coveting them for awhile.  My challenge was shaping the wood!  Now I
have no excuse-I guess I will have to add that to the 2003 list.  Thanks
Drea!

Sg



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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 08:48:04 -0600
Status: RO

Hey, once you do the conversion from Aussie dollars, the prices are quite
reasonable! Now I just need to find out what shipping to the States would
cost.


Karen

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:35:20 -0800
Status: RO

Elizabeth Lear wrote:
> 
> 
> Too bad my husband's persona is Chinese ...
> 
>                                                 ...eliz

Forgive me Eliz, but my first thought when I read that was, "Well that
can be changed, either the persona or the husband."


Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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Subject: [h-cost] Weird openings (Re: Royal Armory Stockholm)
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:06:49 -0800
Status: RO

This is strange.. be warned, it IS a huge picture :]
<http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Klarbild/Modelejon/T4386_.jpg>

On the left breast of the outfit, there is an opening that seems to go from 
the middle upper chest towards the side back waist. What's this for? Has 
anyone ever seen anything like it?

Thanks,
kris

>  --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi.
> > There is an exhibition in Stockholm right now about male costumes from 16th
> > to 18th century.
> > They have a wonderfull museum catalog about the exhibition.
> > Gosh it is so expensive to have this interrest, i just got What Clothes
> > Reveal and Kyoto Costume book, + the catalog from Munic, heres another 
> one i
> > must have!!!
> > There are wonderfull pictures here:
> > http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Modelejon/Mode_start.htm

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 16 18:39:16 2002
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 00:39:18 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Kris.
It is very unusual you are right. It is because it has a non symetrical
opening. It is not clotsed at the center front but in the left side.
Perhaps it was because they did not want to spoil the beautifull embroidered
pattern with buttons and bottonholes.
I just ran trough a catalog i have og Gustavs clothes, and all of them had a
center front clotsing.
The suits in Norah Waughs Cut of mens clothes has center front clothings
two, so it is quite rare.
I was very surprised how beautifull blue wool looks with gold embroidery.

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "kris" <ionization@shaw.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 10:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Weird openings (Re: Royal Armory Stockholm)


> This is strange.. be warned, it IS a huge picture :]
> <http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Klarbild/Modelejon/T4386_.jpg>
>
> On the left breast of the outfit, there is an opening that seems to go
from
> the middle upper chest towards the side back waist. What's this for? Has
> anyone ever seen anything like it?
>
> Thanks,
> kris
>
> >  --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi.
> > > There is an exhibition in Stockholm right now about male costumes from
16th
> > > to 18th century.
> > > They have a wonderfull museum catalog about the exhibition.
> > > Gosh it is so expensive to have this interrest, i just got What
Clothes
> > > Reveal and Kyoto Costume book, + the catalog from Munic, heres another
> > one i
> > > must have!!!
> > > There are wonderfull pictures here:
> > > http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Modelejon/Mode_start.htm
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 16 21:09:40 2002
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:16:38 -0800
Status: RO


> How much were they ? I never found the price
>
> Mel


I believe Julian sells the chopine blanks for $50 or $60  (AUS) a pair plus
shipping.  It is probably 1/2 that in US dollars, but I haven't been keeping
up with exchange rates lately.

Lisa


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 16 21:40:32 2002
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 11:23:22 -0600
Status: RO

Could you repost that link?  I deleted it when I didn't mean to; I planned
to send it to some friends.

Karen

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tan glazed cotton, for lining
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 00:26:05 -0800
Status: RO


>You might try looking under their cotton sateens. They seem to have
>several colors which might do, although none are actually tan.

Thank you, but I don't want sateen.  I want glazed cotton.  I'll keep looking.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 00:30:24 -0800
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>Personally, I usually use synthetics because I can't afford silks or wools
>(most of my costuming is 19th century), although I have worked with silk a
>few times and it was fabulous.  When I can afford it, it'll be natural
>fibers all the time!

I find cheap wool or silk, cotton or linen, or I don't sew.

I suffer from heat while wearing cotton or linen, in the summer in 
California.  I find wearing synthetics very much like wearing a plastic 
trash bag - I faint from the heat.  I don't really like falling down - it's 
inelegant, and gets the dress dirty.  Sometimes I hurt myself in the 
fall.  The money I saved wasn't worth it.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Armory Stockholm
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 01:02:14 -0800
Status: RO


>There is an exhibition in Stockholm right now about male costumes from 16th
>to 18th century.
>They have a wonderfull museum catalog about the exhibition.
>Gosh it is so expensive to have this interrest, i just got What Clothes
>Reveal and Kyoto Costume book, + the catalog from Munic, heres another one i
>must have!!!
>There are wonderfull pictures here:
>http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Modelejon/Mode_start.htm

So nice to see a clear image of the knitted pluderhosen.  I can even count 
the stitches.  but I bet my mother won't knit me one just like it.

Kayta

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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 13:30:36 +0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

>It is very unusual you are right. It is because it has a non symetrical
>opening. It is not clotsed at the center front but in the left side.
>Perhaps it was because they did not want to spoil the beautifull embroidered
>pattern with buttons and bottonholes.

No, I've never seen an early 17c doublet with a side closure either. Perhaps a new style invented for King Gustav Adolf that didn't catch on?

What fantastic pictures! I hadn't discovered the enlarged versions at first either.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 09:26:52 -0500
Status: RO



I'm also missing those digests, was there an email hiccup somewhere?
I've also tried posting a source of brown polished cotton twice, I've not 
seen it post however.
Kelly



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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 10:51:14 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Folks, I know a lot of us use Ebay and Paypal (to buy fabric and costumes
and other accessories -- how's that for marginal topical content?).

Please remember to change your password frequently, and keep an eye on the
account.  My hubby just sent me this from Forbes:
http://www.forbes.com/home/2002/08/21/0821hatesites_3.html

Someone on rec.woodworking had their bank account wiped out because
someone hacked their Paypal account, transferred money from the bank
account to Paypal and then within Paypal to another Paypal account, which
was then withdrawn and closed.  (Of course, people get their regular bank
or credit card accounts hacked all the time, but it seems one has fewer
remedies when dealing with Paypal than when dealing with one's credit card
company.)

I just changed my password, and am considering closing the account after a
few payments I've made recently are cleared.

-- Mara

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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 09:29:42 -0800
Status: RO


> What did the men wear under the doublet, skirted jerkin combo... Was
> it simply a pair of hosen, with the padded codpiece attached to them? 
> Or what did the codpiece attach to?  I am referring to the size of
> codpiece you see in the Henry VIII pictures.

Although they wore hose, they also wore breeches beneath the skirted 
jerkin. At first these were quite small (as can be seen in some of 
the pictures where they are not wearing anything but a shirt and hose 
or doublet and the like) but then they grew long enough that you can 
actually see them peaking out from beneath the skirts. (You need 
something a bit more substantial than hose to attach those codpieces 
as they are no longer just a little flap.) An example of this is the 
Portrait of a Man in Red. It is in both the general and 16th C 
specific versions of _Visual History of Costume_ as well as in the 
Tudor volume of the Costumes of the Western World. (Those are the 
first ones I think of, but there are probably others as well.)

> Is Norris a reliable source for this one?

Norris, the person who edited out all the codpieces from all of his 
drawings of Tudor men in his book? No. 

Men's clothes of this time period doesn't get as much exposure as do 
the women's clothing. There is no Jean Hunnisett or the like for this 
early Tudor clothes.

However, CW and Philis Cunnington's _Handbook of English Costume in 
the Sixteenth Century_ would probably be much more helpful to you. 
They describe the layers of clothing worn in these clothes and, 
albeit in redrawings, show examples. (Some of them you can find the 
original portrait/drawing for comparison, some are taken from obscure 
churches and the like, some of which may have been bombed out during 
WWII. However, at least they credit where the drawing was taken.)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 19:59:28 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, gang.
Do any of you Italian-knowledgable types (yo! Bella!) know what part of
Italy this style of dress would have come from?


 http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?374+0+0 

It's a bit hard to see in this link, but she's wearing a striped
shift--the stripes being black monochrome embroidery in a linear
pattern.  I'm thinking of doing a dress in this style, or a related one,
to go with the blackwork shift I've been working on for mumblety-mumble
years now.  The pattern I'm using for my shift is similar to, but not
the same as, the one in the portrait.
I have seen a few other examples of women wearing shifts with
embroidered stripes, but they're (so far) all earlier or later than this
particular portrait.
Thing is, as round as I am (and short), this would be a really, really
unattractive style for me--even on the sitter in the painting, the dress
looks too small.
Also, I'm thinking that the fabric is some sort of heavy, silk satin?
With a brocade undergown/underskirt? (hmmmm....maybe, a darker color
would work)
And what *is* that weird ruffle/collar around her neck? Has anyone ever
seen anything else like that? I'm assuming it's some sort of collar for
the transparent partlet-thing she's wearing.....
--sue
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 21:23:38 -0600
Status: RO

Moretto da Brescia
[Italian High Renaissance Painter, 1498-1554]

      . Also known as:   Alessandro Bonvicino
      Alessandro Moretto
Italian painter (Brescia 1498 c. - 1554).
Brought up in the same environment as Savoldo and Romanino, with whom he
worked in Brescia, he painted numerous altar-pieces. While his colours
reveal a personal interpretation of Venetian tonality, his religious
subjects and portraits express a sense of everyday reality that is typical
of Lombard tradition.
I would say that it is either Venician or Genoan as those were the two
places he is best known to have been during his artistic endevors (bio of
his life off any encyclopedia). :)

It also strikingly looks like the dress they made for the movie Queen Margo.
Perhaps the costumer was inspired by this for the lead actress' dress. Very
nice!

Sincerely,
Chiara
Ansteorra, Steppes
Not all ermine spots are created equally

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 8:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress


> Hi, gang.
> Do any of you Italian-knowledgable types (yo! Bella!) know what part of
> Italy this style of dress would have come from?
>
>
>  http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?374+0+0
>
> It's a bit hard to see in this link, but she's wearing a striped
> shift--the stripes being black monochrome embroidery in a linear
> pattern.  I'm thinking of doing a dress in this style, or a related one,
> to go with the blackwork shift I've been working on for mumblety-mumble
> years now.  The pattern I'm using for my shift is similar to, but not
> the same as, the one in the portrait.
> I have seen a few other examples of women wearing shifts with
> embroidered stripes, but they're (so far) all earlier or later than this
> particular portrait.
> Thing is, as round as I am (and short), this would be a really, really
> unattractive style for me--even on the sitter in the painting, the dress
> looks too small.
> Also, I'm thinking that the fabric is some sort of heavy, silk satin?
> With a brocade undergown/underskirt? (hmmmm....maybe, a darker color
> would work)
> And what *is* that weird ruffle/collar around her neck? Has anyone ever
> seen anything else like that? I'm assuming it's some sort of collar for
> the transparent partlet-thing she's wearing.....
> --sue
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 22:27:05 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. Nice stuff. I see they copied the Eskilstuna field bed. I have a variant
that I made some years ago, minus the testers. I'm surprised the person isn't
doing patten blanks also.  Mike T.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 17 23:19:25 2002
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 23:25:40 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. This side closure is seen in some illustrations from the first quarter of the 17th Cent. There is a fellow in the background of the Sebastian
Vrancx painting "An Allegory of Autumn", dated 1620, wearing a variant of this doublet. I have seen others, but I can't remember where offhand
(Something in my mind says French, but I can't recall). It was a short-lived fashion, and may have had some Eastern European association. Mike T.
PS I have color slides of this and other GA doublets from the Royal Armouries, but have never figured out how to make them into anything useful.
Any ideas? MJT



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 17 23:31:26 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 20:37:26 -0800
Status: RO

Julian does patten blanks too.  I think they are listed somewhere but not
illustrated.  I have a nifty pair of his that has a leather hinge on the
ball of the foot after the pair illustrated in the book Daily Life in
Chaucers England, and they are actually very comfortable.  Made of oak with
period looking nails.  I added my own embossed leather straps, but he offers
that option too.

Lisa


----- Original Message -----
From: "leigh tartaglio" <mikes@dandy.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!


> Hi. Nice stuff. I see they copied the Eskilstuna field bed. I have a
variant
> that I made some years ago, minus the testers. I'm surprised the person
isn't
> doing patten blanks also.  Mike T.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 20:43:53 -0800
Status: RO

Oh, maybe the pattens were $60 and chopines $75....  I think I'm confused
now.

LS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!


> Julian does patten blanks too.  I think they are listed somewhere but not
> illustrated.  I have a nifty pair of his that has a leather hinge on the
> ball of the foot after the pair illustrated in the book Daily Life in
> Chaucers England, and they are actually very comfortable.  Made of oak
with
> period looking nails.  I added my own embossed leather straps, but he
offers
> that option too.
>
> Lisa
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "leigh tartaglio" <mikes@dandy.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!
>
>
> > Hi. Nice stuff. I see they copied the Eskilstuna field bed. I have a
> variant
> > that I made some years ago, minus the testers. I'm surprised the person
> isn't
> > doing patten blanks also.  Mike T.
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: kris <ionization@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Weird openings (Re: Royal Armory Stockholm)
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 20:43:10 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:25 PM 17/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi. This side closure is seen in some illustrations from the first quarter 
>of the 17th Cent. There is a fellow in the background of the Sebastian
>Vrancx painting "An Allegory of Autumn", dated 1620, wearing a variant of 
>this doublet. I have seen others, but I can't remember where offhand
>(Something in my mind says French, but I can't recall). It was a 
>short-lived fashion, and may have had some Eastern European association. 
>Mike T.
>PS I have color slides of this and other GA doublets from the Royal 
>Armouries, but have never figured out how to make them into anything useful.
>Any ideas? MJT

Do you know of a copy of that online anywhere? I've searched google and the 
Web Gallery of Art and come up with nothing.

Thanks,
kris 

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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 22:16:09 -0700
Status: RO

*blink, blink*
movie about Queen Margo?
ISTR that for some (currently unknown) reason, I'd thought of it as
Venetian, but it really doesn't look much like the Venetian stuff I've
seen on Bella's website.  From your notes on the artist, it does look
like maybe it's more northern-Italian? Do I have my Italian peninsula
geography even vaguely correct? <g>
Plus, there's that little extra "skirt" thing at the top of the
skirt--I'm thinking that's a fold of the skirt, kinda like the pleating
you see on end-of-the-century gowns, rather than some sort of peplum or
skirting that's more part of the bodice.  I *think* I've seen this
before, although not commonly.  The painting that's vaguely coming to
mind is that one where the dress is made of yellow and green fabrics,
sewn together in lengthwise stripes of varying widths.....
Thanks for the input!
--sue

chiara wrote:
> 
> Moretto da Brescia
> [Italian High Renaissance Painter, 1498-1554]
> 
>       . Also known as:   Alessandro Bonvicino
>       Alessandro Moretto
> Italian painter (Brescia 1498 c. - 1554).
> Brought up in the same environment as Savoldo and Romanino, with whom he
> worked in Brescia, he painted numerous altar-pieces. While his colours
> reveal a personal interpretation of Venetian tonality, his religious
> subjects and portraits express a sense of everyday reality that is typical
> of Lombard tradition.
> I would say that it is either Venician or Genoan as those were the two
> places he is best known to have been during his artistic endevors (bio of
> his life off any encyclopedia). :)
> 
> It also strikingly looks like the dress they made for the movie Queen Margo.
> Perhaps the costumer was inspired by this for the lead actress' dress. Very
> nice!
> 
> Sincerely,
> Chiara
> Ansteorra, Steppes
> Not all ermine spots are created equally
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 8:59 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
> 
> > Hi, gang.
> > Do any of you Italian-knowledgable types (yo! Bella!) know what part of
> > Italy this style of dress would have come from?
> >
> >
> >  http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?374+0+0
> >
> > It's a bit hard to see in this link, but she's wearing a striped
> > shift--the stripes being black monochrome embroidery in a linear
> > pattern.  I'm thinking of doing a dress in this style, or a related one,
> > to go with the blackwork shift I've been working on for mumblety-mumble
> > years now.  The pattern I'm using for my shift is similar to, but not
> > the same as, the one in the portrait.
> > I have seen a few other examples of women wearing shifts with
> > embroidered stripes, but they're (so far) all earlier or later than this
> > particular portrait.
> > Thing is, as round as I am (and short), this would be a really, really
> > unattractive style for me--even on the sitter in the painting, the dress
> > looks too small.
> > Also, I'm thinking that the fabric is some sort of heavy, silk satin?
> > With a brocade undergown/underskirt? (hmmmm....maybe, a darker color
> > would work)
> > And what *is* that weird ruffle/collar around her neck? Has anyone ever
> > seen anything else like that? I'm assuming it's some sort of collar for
> > the transparent partlet-thing she's wearing.....
> > --sue
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 18 01:58:35 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: "Costume Understructures" Call for Papers
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 08:09:29 +0100
Status: RO


>Costume Society of America, Region I
>
>
>
>Understructures: Shaping the Body, Fashioning the Person
>
>
>
>Saturday, April 5, 2003
>
>Old Sturbridge Village, Sturbridge, MA
>
>
>
>Proposals are invited from a broad range of research areas, including the 
>disciplines of art history, history, material culture, psychology, and 
>sociology, and underwear that shapes the body from ancient times to the 
>present day. Special consideration will be given to papers that use 
>interdisciplinary or multicultural approaches.
>
>
>
>Proposals may be submitted for 20 minute paper presentations and 10/10 
>ongoing research presentations (10 minutes presentation, 10 minutes group 
>discussion).
>
>
>
>Topics might include, but are not limited to:
>
>
>
>"                      Types of undergarments, including stays/corsets, 
>bras, girdles, hoops, paniers, farthingales, shaping panties and 
>pantyhose, men s waist-cinchers, kimono undergarments, and other underwear 
>with shaping capabilities.
>
>"                      The natural body vs. the artificial body.
>
>"                      Range and type of movement dictated by undergarments.
>
>"                      Marketing and manufacture and its change over time.
>
>"                      Body-shaping undergarments and social rank and class.
>
>"                      Body-shaping undergarments in popular culture.
>
>"                      Undergarments and dress reform.
>
>"                      Western women s vs. men s body-shaping.
>
>"                      Western vs. non-Western body-shaping methods.
>
>"                      Transgender use of shaping undergarments.
>
>"                      The stigma of shaping underwear in modern culture.
>
>"                      The physiological affects of corsetry on the body.
>
>
>
>Submit four copies of your 1-2 page abstract, complete bibliography, and 
>one copy of your two-page CV, postmarked by Tuesday, December 31, 2002 
>(the extended deadline), to Carrie Alyea, 26 Bradford St. #1, Boston, MA 
>02118. A title page, with the title of your paper, your name and complete 
>contact information, must be included. Do not put your name on the 
>abstract pages or bibliography. If you have questions or need more 
>information, please email .
>
>
>
>Previously published material should not be submitted. Submissions must be 
>original research, interpretations, and/or perspectives. Proposals are 
>welcome from all, regardless of membership status.
>
>
>
>PLEASE FORWARD THIS TO OTHERS WHO MAY BE INTERESTED.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 18 07:55:35 2002
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From: "deborah murray" <oonaghoneill@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 12:56:46 +0000
Status: RO

I priced the chopines just before Crown, June, and they were over $100 Aust. 
  $150 seems familiar to me, but I'm not 100% on that.  But email him and 
ask him yourself and find out what is involved in ordering a pair.  I 
understand he needs a tracing of your feet.

I friend of mine was his first chopine customer and loves hers.  She is 
currently making lace to trim them.

No I have to save up for my pair.

Cheers

Deb
(Oonagh)







>From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!
>Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:16:38 -0800
>
>
> > How much were they ? I never found the price
> >
> > Mel



>
>
>I believe Julian sells the chopine blanks for $50 or $60  (AUS) a pair plus
>shipping.  It is probably 1/2 that in US dollars, but I haven't been 
>keeping
>up with exchange rates lately.
>
>Lisa
>
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 18 12:15:48 2002
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From: kate <macailith@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 09:16:47 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
*snip*
> I *think* I've seen this before, although not      
> commonly.  The painting that's vaguely coming to
> mind is that one where the dress is made of yellow
> and green fabrics, sewn together in lengthwise     >
stripes of varying widths.....

That would in the painting by Lorenzo Lotto, "Portrait
of a Lady as Lucretia" (name varies depending on which
source you're looking at). It's circa 1533.

It has 116 separate pieces...
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg

kate

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 18 15:32:14 2002
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From: Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 05:34:34 -0800
Status: RO



kate wrote:

> That would in the painting by Lorenzo Lotto, "Portrait
> of a Lady as Lucretia" (name varies depending on which
> source you're looking at). It's circa 1533.
>
> It has 116 separate pieces...
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg
>

Wow, cool dress. It's particularly interesting the way the lower puff on
the sleeve
is stretched out by her bending her elbow - it doesn't look like there's
a seam
separating that and the lower sleeve at all.
And her hat looks like it's made of macaroni....

Claire

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah Fourment
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 14:59:20 -0800
Status: RO

These are probably too late (as in period-wise), but the Musee d'Orsay sells
some beautiful reproduction jewelry based on paintings in their collection.
They have a couple of pearl drop earrings.

http://www.shop.musee-orsay.fr/EN/gamme.asp?gamme%5Fid=5

- Kendra

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 18 19:11:42 2002
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: italian gown
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 18:57:22 -0500
Status: RO

on 12/18/02 12:47 PM sue wrote:

> Thing is, as round as I am (and short), this would be a really, really
> unattractive style for me--even on the sitter in the painting, the dress
> looks too small.

Sue: I think that on anyone this would be an unattractive style. The woman
looks like she's wearing overstuffed upholstery. IMHO, of course! :-)

Perhaps some more knowledgeable person could comment on this, but it seems
to me that the puffiness of the gown is more of a painterly, idealized
version of the style, which seems to be a craze for lots of soft puffy
things. I would think that you could tone it down a bit and still be in the
realm of reality.

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah Fourment
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:30:37 -0800
Status: RO

Kendra-

Wonderful museum site, thanks for sharing!!!  They have exhibition 
catalogues for Chardin and Georges de la Tour!!!  Oh, veddy bad for 
pocketbook!!!

Some really nice jewels for 19c as well.  Oh, dear!!

Theresa Eacker

Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> These are probably too late (as in period-wise), but the Musee d'Orsay sells
> some beautiful reproduction jewelry based on paintings in their collection.
> They have a couple of pearl drop earrings.
> 
> http://www.shop.musee-orsay.fr/EN/gamme.asp?gamme%5Fid=5
> 
> - Kendra
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 18 19:39:44 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:43:52 -0800
Status: RO

If you have allowed paypal access to your checking account, this may be a
problem, although I doubt it happens much. E-trade is generally pretty safe.
I did however, refuse that sort of access when I signed up with paypal,
primarily because at the time there was no number to call if something went
wrong.  With a total lack of customer service, I have not permitted access
to any of my checking accounts.  That sort of access is not something I'd
probably ever give permission for anyway, as credit cards are a better means
of paying strangers, and there is almost always recourse if it's on a credit
card.

I don't know if they still allow it, it's called an "unverified" account,
(as though I'm a bad bad person!) ;)  they obviously prefer full access to
your checking account, but that ain't gonna happen in my lifetime.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@radix.net>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning


> Folks, I know a lot of us use Ebay and Paypal (to buy fabric and costumes
> and other accessories -- how's that for marginal topical content?).
>
> Please remember to change your password frequently, and keep an eye on the
> account.  My hubby just sent me this from Forbes:
> http://www.forbes.com/home/2002/08/21/0821hatesites_3.html
>
> Someone on rec.woodworking had their bank account wiped out because
> someone hacked their Paypal account, transferred money from the bank
> account to Paypal and then within Paypal to another Paypal account, which
> was then withdrawn and closed.  (Of course, people get their regular bank
> or credit card accounts hacked all the time, but it seems one has fewer
> remedies when dealing with Paypal than when dealing with one's credit card
> company.)
>
> I just changed my password, and am considering closing the account after a
> few payments I've made recently are cleared.
>
> -- Mara
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 17:33:06 -0800
Status: RO

Gail wrote:
> Perhaps some more knowledgeable person could comment on this, but it
> seems to me that the puffiness of the gown is more of a painterly,
> idealized version of the style, which seems to be a craze for lots of
> soft puffy things. I would think that you could tone it down a bit and
> still be in the realm of reality.

While I would also probably tone it down, it is more because of my 
modern sensibilities. I agree completely that the Italians especially 
had a "craze ofr lots of soft puffy things" but that included full-
figured women. Even undresses (a la Ruben), the ladies tended to be 
larger than we think is ok for people now adays. But this is probably 
no 16 year old. She was a *woman* not a girl and will not have a 
stick figure. (Yet she is not morbidly obese, unlike Lady Dacre from 
England from about the same period within 20 years.)

Nor is this lady stuffed into her dress to overflowing. If you look 
at her decollatage, her breasts are not coming over the top. They are 
not even pushing her chemise edge forward. She's just wearing a 
heavily furred dress, which makes her look bigger than she really is. 
But then, in that time it was a popular look.

The sleeves, for example, are not uncommon in that time and in fact 
persisted quite some time. They show up in Alcega ("Learned Man's 
Robe" 1589) as well as the Milanese tailor's album (c1570) as you can 
see in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620.

I've made this particular sleeve (albeit *never* in pumpkin and olive 
colors) on several occasions. One hint I can give you is that you 
need to line the sleeves so that the lining is a straight sleeve 
which does not follow the puff. Otherwise the puff is difficult to 
maintain without a lot of constant preening (which is so *not* my 
style). If you fur line it, as the Lotto painting shows, it will give 
that "stuffed" look to the arms (like what we see in our own clothes 
which we wear for cold weater sometimes.) My first one was made of 
wool and almost has that look without even the lining (although I 
made it in proportion to the c1570 gown from the Milanese tailor's 
album.) The fur would make the puffed part stand out even more.

Another thing that I've always noted about this portrait is the short 
skirt of the bodice over the longer skirt. I'd seen descriptions of 
the peplum on the dresses of that time, but this is the only one I've 
actually found pictured. 

I strongly suspect that Lotto painted this dress exactly as it 
appeared on the woman. It's just not a look we're particularly used 
to. (However, I have a friend who would look spectacular in this 
dress just as it is, including the colors used.)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: italian gown
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 21:46:29 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 18 Dec 2002 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> Another thing that I've always noted about this portrait is the short
> skirt of the bodice over the longer skirt. I'd seen descriptions of
> the peplum on the dresses of that time, but this is the only one I've
> actually found pictured.

I'm not so sure it's a peplum, if by that you mean a bit attached to the
bodice only, worn over a separate skirt. My impression is that this is a
bodice with an attached skirt; the "peplum" is just the upper edge of the
skirt, which is folded to flop over, and the next few inches of the skirt
are tucked up beneath, pinned to the padding below. (If this were English,
we'd call it a "frounce"; this is the way Elizabethan skirts were tucked
up over a French farthingale roll a few decades later. That's often
mistaken for a bodice peplum too. The tuck is really quite easy to pin
into place, and it allows you to adjust the skirt length to suit different
quantities of padding, etc.) You can see that both the skirt and the
frounce have a front opening where the fur peeks through, and the stripes
on them match, suggesting a continuous skirt folded under.

Then again, the skirt is presumably fur-lined, but the fold of the frounce
is awfully flat, not slightly puffy as you'd expect with a fur-lined
skirt, even if the lining were very fine.

On the third hand, it would be impossible to pleat the fur lining into the
bodice at the waistline the way the fabric of the skirt is pleated, so
perhaps the fur lining starts a few inches down, and the folded area is
fur-free. That also means the folded frounce would handily hide any lump
or stitching at the point where the fur lining starts.

Ah, a mystery.

On colors: When I saw this at the National Gallery in London, I noted on
the back of my postcard that the very deep green on the postcard was
correct in tone, but that the photo was way more orange than the painting,
which was a more palatable rust color in life. This is one reason I like
to get my postcards at museum shops before I go through the museum -- so I
can compare and make notes.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: italian gown
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 21:46:07 -0700
Status: RO

Why do you think it's furred? I've never gotten that impression from it
(although my good copy of it's at work, so I can't double-check until
tomorrow, darn it). Or are you referring to another portrait, other than
the one I'd asked about....especially since you're referring to pumpkin
and olive colors? (oh, do you mean the stripedy one? I think of it more
as yellow and green....)
Okay, now I'm re-reading your post again, and catching the Lotto
reference (duh, Sue!).  Oh, well, it's been that kind of day.
Personally, I don't think the extra bit at the top of the skirt is a
"peplum" from the bodice, but rather a tuck of the skirt, like the
later-16th c. outfits on English women, that make them look, to my eyes,
like it's half a woman standing in the middle of a round table <g>.  Of
course, from what I understand, *those* flounces were pinned to the
understructure--padding, farthingale, what-have-you.  In our two Italian
examples, though, they don't look like they're pinned to anything.
I've seen the Lotto dress done (and fairly decently, too).  The woman
wearing it was a tidge barrel-shaped anyway, so I guess it suited her. 
In my shorter-rounder-more hourglassy state, though, it wouldn't be
flattering, so I'm looking for other styles from the same region/time
with which to wear my shift.
--Sue, who'd love to know if anyone finds any other examples of the same
sort of thing....

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> Gail wrote:
> > Perhaps some more knowledgeable person could comment on this, but it
> > seems to me that the puffiness of the gown is more of a painterly,
> > idealized version of the style, which seems to be a craze for lots of
> > soft puffy things. I would think that you could tone it down a bit and
> > still be in the realm of reality.
> 
> While I would also probably tone it down, it is more because of my
> modern sensibilities. I agree completely that the Italians especially
> had a "craze ofr lots of soft puffy things" but that included full-
> figured women. Even undresses (a la Ruben), the ladies tended to be
> larger than we think is ok for people now adays. But this is probably
> no 16 year old. She was a *woman* not a girl and will not have a
> stick figure. (Yet she is not morbidly obese, unlike Lady Dacre from
> England from about the same period within 20 years.)
> 
> Nor is this lady stuffed into her dress to overflowing. If you look
> at her decollatage, her breasts are not coming over the top. They are
> not even pushing her chemise edge forward. She's just wearing a
> heavily furred dress, which makes her look bigger than she really is.
> But then, in that time it was a popular look.
> 
> The sleeves, for example, are not uncommon in that time and in fact
> persisted quite some time. They show up in Alcega ("Learned Man's
> Robe" 1589) as well as the Milanese tailor's album (c1570) as you can
> see in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620.
> 
> I've made this particular sleeve (albeit *never* in pumpkin and olive
> colors) on several occasions. One hint I can give you is that you
> need to line the sleeves so that the lining is a straight sleeve
> which does not follow the puff. Otherwise the puff is difficult to
> maintain without a lot of constant preening (which is so *not* my
> style). If you fur line it, as the Lotto painting shows, it will give
> that "stuffed" look to the arms (like what we see in our own clothes
> which we wear for cold weater sometimes.) My first one was made of
> wool and almost has that look without even the lining (although I
> made it in proportion to the c1570 gown from the Milanese tailor's
> album.) The fur would make the puffed part stand out even more.
> 
> Another thing that I've always noted about this portrait is the short
> skirt of the bodice over the longer skirt. I'd seen descriptions of
> the peplum on the dresses of that time, but this is the only one I've
> actually found pictured.
> 
> I strongly suspect that Lotto painted this dress exactly as it
> appeared on the woman. It's just not a look we're particularly used
> to. (However, I have a friend who would look spectacular in this
> dress just as it is, including the colors used.)
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 23:51:39 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. I don't know of an online copy. My illo comes from a magazine article that I
clipped many years ago. The credit for the picture says "Johnny Van Haeften,
London". I don't even know what magazine the illo was from...sorry. The article
was titled "Art from the Harvest, paintings that capture the bounty of Autumn",
text by Donald Hall. I found another painting with the side opening, however. It
is dated 1615, the artist is Esaie van de Velde, it is a Merry Companions piece
(in French, "partie champetre"), and it is listed as being in the Rijksmuseum in
Amsterdam. It is on pg 280 of "Le Costume des Tudor a Louis XIII" by James Laver
1950. Both the boy pouring wine in the center, and the man on the right in green
are wearing them. There might be an answer in that the existing and the
illustrated garments seem to fit rather closely.  Mike T.


> Do you know of a copy of that online anywhere? I've searched google and the
> Web Gallery of Art and come up with nothing.
>

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: italian gown
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 22:18:59 -0800
Status: RO


> > Thing is, as round as I am (and short), this would be a really, really
> > unattractive style for me--even on the sitter in the painting, the dress
> > looks too small.
>
>Sue: I think that on anyone this would be an unattractive style. The woman
>looks like she's wearing overstuffed upholstery. IMHO, of course! :-)
>
>Perhaps some more knowledgeable person could comment on this, but it seems
>to me that the puffiness of the gown is more of a painterly, idealized
>version of the style, which seems to be a craze for lots of soft puffy
>things. I would think that you could tone it down a bit and still be in the
>realm of reality.

I always thought of it as a sausage grabbed in the middle and 
squeezed.  I'm certain it's too small for the wearer, especially where her 
anatomy overflows the top of the bodice.  Made larger at the top, as in the 
Lucretia picture, it should do fine on a short and round figure - the ideal 
Italian figure of the period.


Kayta

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: italian gown
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 18:52:55 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 

> I always thought of it as a sausage grabbed in the
> middle and 
> squeezed.  I'm certain it's too small for the
> wearer, especially where her 
> anatomy overflows the top of the bodice.


Actually it's not too small for her. There is at least
one other portrait I know of, also circa 1540, where
the breasts overflow the top of the bodice quite
noticeably, albeit covered by both the camicia and a
sheer partlet. It's called "Portrait of a Lady" (she's
in green stamped velvet) by Prospero Fontana, circa
1540. If anyone can find this online I'll be forever
grateful. I just spent half an hour looking but have
to go start dinner now. I have a copy in my book on
velvet.


Bella

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- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 02:29:39 -0500
Status: RO

FYI, FWIW, Paypal has been under investigation by several different
states, (Louisiana is one I definitely remember), for conducting
business as if they are a bank, which in fact they are not. There are
reports of other shady dealings, such as Paypal freezing accounts so
that the account holder can't even get their own money out. This has
been going on for months, as yet I haven't heard the outcome of the
case(s), has anyone else? Knowing this was enough for me to not sign up
for Paypal, even though it is very convenient, especially for eBay and
ordering things from overseas. I'm with you, Angela, there is nothing
wrong with a little healthy paranoia. 

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning

If you have allowed paypal access to your checking account, this may be
a
problem, although I doubt it happens much. E-trade is generally pretty
safe.
I did however, refuse that sort of access when I signed up with paypal,
primarily because at the time there was no number to call if something
went
wrong.  With a total lack of customer service, I have not permitted
access
to any of my checking accounts.  That sort of access is not something
I'd
probably ever give permission for anyway, as credit cards are a better
means
of paying strangers, and there is almost always recourse if it's on a
credit
card.

I don't know if they still allow it, it's called an "unverified"
account,
(as though I'm a bad bad person!) ;)  they obviously prefer full access
to
your checking account, but that ain't gonna happen in my lifetime.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@radix.net>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning


> Folks, I know a lot of us use Ebay and Paypal (to buy fabric and
costumes
> and other accessories -- how's that for marginal topical content?).
>
> Please remember to change your password frequently, and keep an eye on
the
> account.  My hubby just sent me this from Forbes:
> http://www.forbes.com/home/2002/08/21/0821hatesites_3.html
> Someone on rec.woodworking had their bank account wiped out because
> someone hacked their Paypal account, transferred money from the bank
> account to Paypal and then within Paypal to another Paypal account,
which
> was then withdrawn and closed.  (Of course, people get their regular
bank
> or credit card accounts hacked all the time, but it seems one has
fewer
> remedies when dealing with Paypal than when dealing with one's credit
card
> company.)
>
> I just changed my password, and am considering closing the account
after a
> few payments I've made recently are cleared.
>
> -- Mara



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Subject: [h-cost] FW: Chopine blanks-from the horse's mouth!
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I had sent the inquiry to my husband for hopeful inclusion on my x-mass
list, however it went to the round file along with the book from Germany
I asked for.  Too much effort I guess.  I have to do all the hard stuff
myself-:-) Darn, I just hate shopping for myself-yeah right.
 
Sg
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Cockerel Woodworks [mailto:cockerel_wood@yahoo.com.au] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 10:19 AM
To: deanqq@earthlink.net
Subject: Chopine blanks
Saragrace, Thanks for your enquiry.
Our chopine blanks are $110 Australian. At the time of writing that
comes to $62.25 US, plus postage. Each set of chopines is custom fitted
for the client and made only to order. 
cheers
Julian Daniels  
Cockerel Woodworks
Medieval and renaissance fine furniture.
http://merchants-medieval.com/cockerel
 
>Enquiry:

>Hi, how much are chopine blanks?

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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I had sent the inquiry to my =
husband for
hopeful inclusion on my x-mass list, however it went to the round file =
along
with the book from </span></font><st1:country-region><st1:place><font =
size=3D2
  color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;
  =
color:navy'>Germany</span></font></st1:place></st1:country-region><font
size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;
color:navy'> I asked for. <span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp;</span>Too much
effort I guess.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>I have to =
do all the
hard stuff myself-</span></font><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy =
face=3DWingdings><span
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symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings'><span =
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color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;
color:navy'> Darn, I just hate shopping for myself-yeah =
right.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

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style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:navy;mso-no-proof:yes'>Sg<o:p></o:p></spa=
n></font></p>

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<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>-----Original =
Message-----<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b> Cockerel Woodworks
[mailto:cockerel_wood@yahoo.com.au] <br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> =
</span></font><st1:date
Month=3D"12" Day=3D"17" Year=3D"2002"><font size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><span
 style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>Tuesday, December 17, =
2002</span></font></st1:date><font
size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'> </span></font><st1:time
Hour=3D"10" Minute=3D"19"><font size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
 font-family:Tahoma'>10:19 AM</span></font></st1:time><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'><br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> =
deanqq@earthlink.net<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Chopine =
blanks</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'>Saragrace, Thanks for your enquiry.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'>Our chopine blanks are $110 Australian. At the time of writing =
that
comes to $62.25 US, plus postage. Each set of =
chopines&nbsp;is&nbsp;custom
fitted for the client and made only to =
order.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'>cheers<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'>Julian Daniels&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Cockerel Woodworks<br>
Medieval and renaissance fine furniture.<br>
<a =
href=3D"http://merchants-medieval.com/cockerel">http://merchants-medieval=
.com/cockerel</a></span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'>&gt;Enquiry:<br>
<br>
&gt;Hi, how much are chopine blanks?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

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From: kate <macailith@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 06:41:00 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

*snip*

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg

Greetings Claire.

In my opinion, the extra poufiness around her elbow is
there due to bending her arm. As far as I'm aware,
there's no extra pouf on the lower sleeve.

I've heard several opinions regarding her hat. The one
that I think fits the best is that it's lambs wool.
Sure looks like it to me...but then again, I've never
been around a sheep while it's being sheared so I
don't know if you can get the lovely little curls of
wool or not.

Sue--you asked about another example of the
peplum/flouncy thing. Go here: 
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/Green1.jpg
and look carefully at the area just below her waist,
skimming the top of her left hand and you'll see
another example of it. 

It is Portrait of a Lady, circa 1530 attributed to da
Carpi. 

Sometime in the past this came up. At the time, one
opinion was her gown didn't have the peplum/flounce,
but that it was a line from her fan handle. If you
look carefully, you'll see the cord for the fan handle
*is* there, but it's a straight line; the flounce line
is curved and follows her waistline.

A friend of mine used to correspond with Janet Arnold;
her thought was that it was perhaps another way to
cartridge pleat the skirt to the bodice (folding the
flounce over the top of the skirt, cartridge pleating
it and sewing through the layers to attach it to the
bodice). 

I haven't tried it myself. I'm a large woman and the
idea of *more* fabric at my waistline doesn't thrill
me...

Have a lovely day!
kate


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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 15:01:21 +0000
Status: RO

(Another) Kate wrote:
[snip]
>>> Sue--you asked about another example of the
>peplum/flouncy thing. Go here: 
>http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/Green1.jpg 
>and look carefully at the area just below her waist,
>skimming the top of her left hand and you'll see
>another example of it. 

What a modern-looking face! My first thought was "She looks just like Diana  Rigg (cf http://www.mindspring.com/~jglane/riggbio.htm  )




Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 16:00:14 +0000
Status: RO

Thought I'd just remind any list friends in the London area that our 17th century music group, with the dancers Renaissance Footnotes, will be at the Museum of London on the afternoons of 3rd, 4th and 5th January 2003. Hope to see you, Stevie?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Subject: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 07:56:49 -0800
Status: RO

Is it just my browser or is www.trimfabrics.com down?  I keep getting the error that the page cannot be found.

Colleen


-----Original Message-----
From: Heather Meadows [mailto:alice@wonderland.com]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:22 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?


I got some really lovely italian wool from www.trimfabrics.com
for about $6/yard.  great quality.  they take about two weeks
to arrive though, as they only ship once a week.

Heather

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:24:26 -0500
Status: RO

        I did a lot of buying and selling on eBay a year or so ago and
used Pay Pal.  They had my electronic checking information and NEVER did
anything that I had not approved.  I don't really think you have to worry
about them.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:08:51 -0800
Status: RO


> Why do you think it's furred? I've never gotten that impression from
> it (although my good copy of it's at work, so I can't double-check
> until tomorrow, darn it). Or are you referring to another portrait,
> other than the one I'd asked about....especially since you're
> referring to pumpkin and olive colors? (oh, do you mean the stripedy
> one? I think of it more as yellow and green....) 

In the on-line version even it is clear in the sleeve slashes and in 
the little area down the center front of the skirt that it has a 
mottled grey fur.

One person's yellow (or orange) and green is another's "pumpkin and 
olive."  I'm certain that they would have called it something 
entirely different in Italy. ;)

> Personally, I don't
> think the extra bit at the top of the skirt is a "peplum" from the
> bodice, but rather a tuck of the skirt, like the later-16th c. outfits
> on English women, that make them look, to my eyes, like it's half a
> woman standing in the middle of a round table <g>.  Of course, from
> what I understand, *those* flounces were pinned to the
> understructure--padding, farthingale, what-have-you.  In our two
> Italian examples, though, they don't look like they're pinned to
> anything. I've seen the Lotto dress done (and fairly decently, too). 

I originally thought it was just a tuck in the skirt fabric too. 
However, the actual skirt appears to be furred (from the little bit 
you see down the center front) but the peplum doesn't have the same 
fur, nor does it have the bulk which fur would give it. Also, it 
doesn't, as you mentioned, appear to be pinned. And if you add to 
that the occasional references to "skirted bodices", you can deduce 
that it is probably a peplum (skirted bodice) as opposed to a tucked 
skirt (something I haven't seen referred to in Italian clothing 
descriptions).

> The woman wearing it was a tidge barrel-shaped anyway, so I guess it
> suited her. In my shorter-rounder-more hourglassy state, though, it
> wouldn't be flattering, so I'm looking for other styles from the same
> region/time with which to wear my shift. --Sue, who'd love to know if
> anyone finds any other examples of the same sort of thing....

It depends on which part you'd like to find examples. The sleeve you 
can find several examples in various sizes from barely there to this 
one. The "peplum" I haven't found other examples. The hat.... well, I 
haven't looked because I don't care for it. Too froofroo.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 16:13:33 -0000
Status: RO

Robin wrote, re:

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg

> On the third hand, it would be impossible to pleat the fur lining
into the
> bodice at the waistline the way the fabric of the skirt is pleated,
so
> perhaps the fur lining starts a few inches down, and the folded area
is
> fur-free. That also means the folded frounce would handily hide any
lump
> or stitching at the point where the fur lining starts.
>
> Ah, a mystery.

Perhaps; I'd suggest however that if the fur retained natural pelt
shapes with triangles at the top it would be much easier to pleat it
in the way we see.  I've tried it, and it works:-)

best wishes
Stevie



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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 10:56:01 -0800
Status: RO

I do at least 99% of my business on Paypal and have never had a problem.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 19 13:59:32 2002
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From: "Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 13:58:04 -0500
Status: RO

It's down to me too...

Apollonia

Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi
Kingdom of Atlantia
www.livejournal.com/users/apollonia

**Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
immane mittam.**

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Colleen McDonald
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 10:57 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?


Is it just my browser or is www.trimfabrics.com down?  I keep getting the
error that the page cannot be found.

Colleen


-----Original Message-----
From: Heather Meadows [mailto:alice@wonderland.com]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:22 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?


I got some really lovely italian wool from www.trimfabrics.com
for about $6/yard.  great quality.  they take about two weeks
to arrive though, as they only ship once a week.

Heather

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 19:10:48 -0000
Status: RO

Me too several 100 $s per week & no problems

Mel

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:25:12 -0800
Status: RO

To Colleen-

I keep getting that msg. on a semi-frequent, unpredictable basis.  I 
think the site goes out for coffee a lot!!

Theresa Eacker

Colleen McDonald wrote:

> Is it just my browser or is www.trimfabrics.com down?  I keep getting the error that the page cannot be found.
> 
> Colleen


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 19 14:47:37 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Norfolk jackets?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:48:36 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

A friend of mine is looking for a Norfolk Jacket (that tweedy type of
hunting jacket that you see in early 20th c. English period movies), but
all of the hunting shops seem to have stopped carrying them.  Does anyone
know of a pattern or source?

- Mara



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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:20:30 -0000
Status: RO

There are usually a few in English Charity shops, but I'm guessing you are
in the US ?

Mel
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <GFEGKMCJKLPKIFGFNGDFAEKIFBAA.apollonia@bellsouth.net> from "Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi" at Dec 19, 2002 01:58:04 PM
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 13:07:47 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

sorry about the typo!  it's trimfabic.com, no 's'


> 
> It's down to me too...
> 
> Apollonia
> 
> Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi
> Kingdom of Atlantia
> www.livejournal.com/users/apollonia
> 
> **Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
> immane mittam.**
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Colleen McDonald
> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 10:57 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?
> 
> 
> Is it just my browser or is www.trimfabrics.com down?  I keep getting the
> error that the page cannot be found.
> 
> Colleen
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Heather Meadows [mailto:alice@wonderland.com]
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:22 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
> 
> 
> I got some really lovely italian wool from www.trimfabrics.com
> for about $6/yard.  great quality.  they take about two weeks
> to arrive though, as they only ship once a week.
> 
> Heather
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Norfolk jackets?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 13:29:27 -0800
Status: RO

To Mara-

I ran  into that exact same problem last spring and found that the 
Folkwear Australian Bush Jacket was a pretty good substitute.  I altered 
some of the outward features (pocket shapes, left off the epaulets, 
extra vertical banding) to match photos of 1880s-1910s men wearing 
various versions of the jacket. The size runs small for men, though, so 
bump up a size level and be prepared for a really weird collar 
application!!!

Hope this helps,

Theresa Eacker

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

> A friend of mine is looking for a Norfolk Jacket (that tweedy type of
> hunting jacket that you see in early 20th c. English period movies), but
> all of the hunting shops seem to have stopped carrying them.  Does anyone
> know of a pattern or source?
> 
> - Mara
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Queenly Update
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 17:26:09 -0600
Status: RO

This message is in MIME format.  Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

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Hello Everyone,

I have updated my web site with the next installment of the Queen Dress
Saga. It can be found at:


http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/

Look for the section called "To Dress A Queen".


Happy Holidays!


Karen
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 19 19:01:33 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] MINT 19c MOTHER OF PEARL LADIES HEM LIFTER NR
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 00:06:40 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Someone may be interested in this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=957&item=2800
115095

Just what you always wanted...

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 19 19:04:33 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] VERY EARLY METALIC EMBROIDERED VELVET PURSE
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 00:09:40 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

this auction finishes in a couple of hours but the pictures may be of
interest to our embroiderers:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=962&item=1904
475338

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 18:04:48 -0600
Status: RO

I am only getting h-costume every 3 or so volumns..


I am missing about 20 of them now???? Anyone else thisis happening to?

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 01:09:38 +0000
Status: RO

I've had a couple of months of peculiar problems - sometimes the posts 
don't get thru' and last week I had to re-subscribe to the List to get 
them.When I contacted my Server they said there was a back log of posts 
amounting to 2000 dating from September.

Marcus.


On Friday, December 20, 2002, at 12:04  am, Linda J. Thompson wrote:

> I am only getting h-costume every 3 or so volumns..
>
>
> I am missing about 20 of them now???? Anyone else thisis happening to?
>
> -- Linda Thompson
>
> Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> where Attitude is Everything
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:03:08 +1300
Status: RO

> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg
> In my opinion, the extra poufiness around her elbow is
> there due to bending her arm. As far as I'm aware,
> there's no extra pouf on the lower sleeve.

How about on the arm that's outstretched? There is a more prominant poof
happening there. I see what you mean baout the bend, it really does look
like the sleeve closest to the veiwer has a poof created just fromt he bend,
but the arm holding the sketch has an even biger bump.

> I've heard several opinions regarding her hat. The one
> that I think fits the best is that it's lambs wool.
> Sure looks like it to me...but then again, I've never
> been around a sheep while it's being sheared so I
> don't know if you can get the lovely little curls of
> wool or not.

If it's wool then I'm sure it'll be lambskin. I know modern Woolrests have a
nice pile made of wool that's sheared, but it would be infinately easy to
keep the curls on a skin. I know some wigs for dolls in the late
19th-early20th C were made from lambskin. And they were definately very
curly.

As for the skirt/peplum.. the pattern of the little 'skirt' matches up with
the stripes on the skirt, not the bodice. Would it be possible that it's
like those flounces on late Elizabethan drum shaped skirts? And actually
sewn into place, and then the skirt lined with fur? Hmmm.. that sounds a
little odd even to me;) Maybe it's a case of the artist not liking how poofy
the original fold was and made it flatter.

I just can't see the maker making the bodice and the skirt and a peplum to
match the skirt so well, could have made the skirt extra long and cut off
the top edge to use for the peplum I suppose...

michaela


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From: Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queenly Update
References: <20021219.172609.-707551.1.Seamstrix@juno.com>
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 18:51:14 -0800
Status: RO

It's amazing to me how quickly you're getting this to come together!!! 
It does indeed look _very_ queenly!!!

BTW, where did you find grosgrain so wide (on the hem facing)?  If you 
don't mind sharing your source, that is (??)


Theresa Eacker

seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

>  
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
>  
> 
> I have updated my web site with the next installment of the Queen Dress 
> Saga. It can be found at:
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/
> 
>  
> 
> Look for the section called "To Dress A Queen".
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Happy Holidays!
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Karen
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Costumer for large order?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 19:13:36 -0800
Status: RO

Someone posted this to my site -- if you're interested, please get in touch
with Angie directly at angie@camp-potawotami.org

====================================================================

Hello,

I am the Outdoor Education Director at YMCA Camp Potawotami. We are a
non-profit org. in NE Indiana. One of our largest programs is a living
history simulation focused on the Underground Railroad. We have been
"getting by" with tattered, poor quality, poorly made, and inaccurate
costumes for years. I am in the process of contacting several sources in
hopes of getting some better costumes for this program. My efforts are
two-fold.

First, our budget is nearly non-existent. Therefore, my first effort is to
solicit donations that would be deductible come tax time. I realize that
some vendors are not large enough to offer such help.

Secondly, I do have a small amount of money that I am willing to use to buy
new costumes. I am wondering if you would be willing to work something out
that would combine both of these options.

Here are some of the parameters that we are working with:

Our costumes are worn by both our staff (they change seasonally) and some
parent/teacher volunteers who play characters. This means that I am looking
for things that can be worn by a variety of people. Skirts that are
adjustable, etc.

Also, they need to be sturdy enough to hold up for the long haul. I would
like to get one large order in the beginning and then just replace/repair
things as needed.

Some of the characters that we portray are-- Harriet Tubman, a sheriff, a
bounty hunter, Quakers, Chapman Harris (a river boat captain), and a
pregnant housewife. Depending on how cheaply this can be done, I would also
like to have some sort of costumes for our "conductors"(escaped slaves who
guided runaways).

This program is offered from March-May and August-December, so we also need
things that will keep us warm in the freezing winter in Northern Indiana.

As you can see, this would be quite a project. If you are not interested or
able to undertake such a thing, could you refer me to someone else who could
be of help?

Thank you for you valuable time,
Angie Cole
Outdoor Education Director
YMCA Camp Potawotami
"Education is a journey, not a destination."

www.camp-potawotami.org
ph# 260-351-2525 ext. 304
fax# 260-351-3915

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Subject: Re: Ditto/Re: [h-cost] What is going on with list..??????
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:19:29 -0700
Status: RO

On Fri, Dec 20, 2002 at 01:09:38AM +0000, marcus findlay-arthur wrote:
> I've had a couple of months of peculiar problems - sometimes the posts 
> don't get thru' and last week I had to re-subscribe to the List to get 
> them.When I contacted my Server they said there was a back log of posts 
> amounting to 2000 dating from September.

If your server was holding them, it's not anything to do with Indra.
Did you ask them *why* they had 2000 posts stuck in there?

I have asked my admin if he's seen any problems, and he hasn't.  If
people can send me *specific* examples of messages they have posted
which they think haven't shown up, he will check the logs and see what
he can find.

I've had some people tell me their messages haven't gone through
because they haven't seen them.  But others have seen those 'missing'
messages, which seems to indicate a receiving problem on some sites,
and not a sending problem on Indra.  Please contact your admins and
make sure they are not blocking anything from Indra, and that they are
not making mailing list messages (ie, "bulk mail") such a low delivery
priority that you're not getting it in your mailbox in a timely
fashion.  One of these two are likely to be the problem for just about
everyone who's not seeing the list email.  If your admin can guarantee
you that neither one is the case, we can run some tests.

					..eliz

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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:22:27 -0800
Status: RO





>
>I do at least 99% of my business on Paypal and have never had a problem.
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>
>See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
>margospatterns.com


I have seen the same warning pages and my husband has talked to a few people 
who had minor hangups with paypal, but I have never had any problems with 
them whether paying or being paid.  I've had my account since '98.  I don't 
recieve regular(scheduled repeated)payments, just once in a while payments 
and not in huge amounts either, but paypal has always been a great service 
for me.


Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 21:52:43 -0700
Status: RO

My computer can't even find the server....
S'okay with me right now, though....I don't have a *cent* to spend on
fabric!
--sue, feeling deprived ;-(

Theresa Eacker wrote:
> 
> To Colleen-
> 
> I keep getting that msg. on a semi-frequent, unpredictable basis.  I
> think the site goes out for coffee a lot!!
> 
> Theresa Eacker
> 
> Colleen McDonald wrote:
> 
> > Is it just my browser or is www.trimfabrics.com down?  I keep getting the error that the page cannot be found.
> >
> > Colleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is going on with list..??????
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 21:40:56 -0700
Status: RO

I don't know what to tell you, because I don't get it in digest form.
That said, though, even the regular version gets a bit weird now and
then--I'll get responses to a post *days* before the original post shows
up, etc.
It seems to be much worse on the weekends.
--sue

"Linda J. Thompson" wrote:
> 
> I am only getting h-costume every 3 or so volumns..
> 
> I am missing about 20 of them now???? Anyone else thisis happening to?
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 21:55:25 -0700
Status: RO

Okay, that worked, but only if I added the "www." in front of the rest
of it....*sigh*....
I get lazy because I don't have to do that on my computers at work.
--sue

Heather Meadows wrote:
> 
> sorry about the typo!  it's trimfabic.com, no 's'
> 
> >
> > It's down to me too...
> >
> > Apollonia
> >
> > Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi
> > Kingdom of Atlantia
> > www.livejournal.com/users/apollonia
> >
> > **Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
> > immane mittam.**
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Colleen McDonald
> > Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 10:57 AM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?
> >
> >
> > Is it just my browser or is www.trimfabrics.com down?  I keep getting the
> > error that the page cannot be found.
> >
> > Colleen
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Heather Meadows [mailto:alice@wonderland.com]
> > Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:22 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
> >
> >
> > I got some really lovely italian wool from www.trimfabrics.com
> > for about $6/yard.  great quality.  they take about two weeks
> > to arrive though, as they only ship once a week.
> >
> > Heather
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Manhattan/NJ fabric & bead stores?
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 00:20:22 -0500
Status: RO

Hi all, I'm heading down to the US for the holidays and am wondering if
anybody has any favourite fabric and/or bead stores in Manhattan or
Northeastern Jersey that they could recommend.  Might as well see if I can
pick up some neat stuff while I'm there...^_^

-- Maral

the den of sarcasm
http://sarcasm.fanfic.org


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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Paypal (long)
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 03:30:03 -0500
Status: RO

Somehow I didn't get the first message about this.  My ISP went down two
days for repairs.

I having been using Paypal since a year after they started business.  I like
Margo do 99% of my business through Paypal.  I have worked with them very
closely over the years and their customer service has been beyond excellent.
So I will let you know what I have learned from working with them.

They have my credit card and bank information.... I know the concern is with
Paypal having your bank info.  So I will address that.  You have to provide
bank info to set up the account.  Just like you have to do when paying
anyone with an e-check or a pay-by- phone.  When making a Paypal e-check
payment, it takes 3-5 business days for the transaction to occur. You ask
Paypal to transfer the money from your bank to the Paypal account.
Personally, I ask for the money to be transferred before writing an e-check.
Once the money reaches the Paypal account, then the money is transferred to
the person's account that you are paying.  Remember this takes 3-5 days.
E-check money is not automatically taken from your account except if you
have money already on your Paypal (not bank) account.  Believe me, I have
sent out payment requests for e-checks that are never paid.  If you don't
request for the money from your bank to be sent to your Paypal account, it
won't arrive.  It does not work the same way as when I call my electric
company and make an e-check payment by phone.  I have one student who asks
me to go on an send an e-check request when she enrolls.  She will send the
money to her email account when she gets paid on Friday or the Friday two
weeks away.  She always lets me know when she will be sending the payment up
front.   Just because I send her a request doesn't mean the money
automatically comes out of her account.  The student is the one who decides
when to send the payment.

People can save up money on their Paypal account.  Say someone pays you for
an e-Bay auction.  You have the option to leave the money on your account
and earn interest or have a direct deposit to your checking account.  If you
wrote an e-check to someone else, that money you have saved Paypal account
can be used for that payment automatically.

The "Paypal being a bank lawsuits" were settled over a year ago.  I can't
recall the outcome, but that was about the time they started paying interest
on the money left on account.

I have worked with so many people over the years with Paypal and their
accounts. I tell our students who need assistance that they can call
Paypal's customer service at 1-888-221-1161  or 402-935-7733 M-F, 6AM to
midnight, Central Standard Time.  Paypal will be more than happy to assist
you and answer any question you have.   I have been calling them with
questions or for assistance since I started with them and they have always
been prompt at answering the phone.   I have helped many of our students set
up accounts.  Many have called the customer assistance and got the problems
resolved immediately.   FYI, I have never taken the $5 for new accounts.  I
just want to help people go through the process easily.

Some things that I do like about Paypal is that they do not charge you for
transferring the money to your bank.  A lot of companies are charging $5-$10
for e-checks.  Businesses are charged a small fee for accepting payments
from individuals or other businesses.  So if you send me a payment for $50,
Paypal charges me $1.60 for accepting the funds.  They charge me this
because I have a business account.  I have been told that when this type of
transaction occurs on private accounts the fee is not charged.

I have heard people/businesses gripe about the fees... go to a merchant
account business and ask what the fees are to set up a merchant account and
renting the equipment.  Then compare pricing.  You will find out that Paypal
fees are a lot lower.

As a small business I would have never been able to afford to have a
merchant account and accept credit cards.  Paypal allows me to accept them.
Many a small businesses are in the same situation that I am in.  Accepting
credit cards has vastly expanded my business.

Time saving...  When someone pays me by Paypal, I generally receive a
payment within 3-5 days.  Sometimes I receive a payment in seconds, if the
person is online and has money in their account.  Someone snail mailing a
payment takes 5-14 days.  Then I have to go to the bank (takes time out of
my day), deposit it in a special account, and wait 3-5 more days for the
check to clear.  I can send a Paypal payment request in 3 minutes, and not
have to leave home.  If I want the Paypal payment to be deposited in my
checking account, all I have to do is change my preferences to Auto Sweep
and it is in my bank in 3 days.  This saves me SO much time.  I have decided
to stop accepting personal checks and money orders except from former
students who have paid this way in the past.  8 out of 10 times when someone
tells me that they will send me a check or money order in the mail, I do not
receive them.  I spend so much time on enrollments and it wastes my time to
enroll someone and never see the payment.    On the other hand, 9 times out
of 10 when someone pays with an e-check or credit cards through Paypal, I
receive the payment.

FYI: For those accepting personal checks... if you set up a separate bank
account to just put personal checks in until they clear, it is better than
putting it into your main account and the check bounces and messes up your
master account with fees.

Paypal Verified VS non-Verified Accounts:  A verified customer is someone
who took the time to check with their bank and confirmed that when you
opened your Paypal account that the couple of cents was deposited in your
bank account by Paypal.  All you have to do is check with your bank or bank
statement of the date and amount.  It's not hard.  Verified customers have a
granrantee that if goods were sent, you can get your money back in 30 days
if the product didn't live up to its promise.  This money back policy is
only for goods not services.  If you purchase from a non-verified seller or
sell to a none verified account the policy is void.  It is a consumer/vendor
protection device.  I know several eBay dealers who will not accept payments
from non-verified Paypal accounts.  To me, I really don't care when
accepting payments if a student is verified or not because I deal with a
service.  I do care when making a payment for an eBay auction or when
purchasing products.  Something new Paypal is offering is for a small fee,
you can purchase a money back granrantee if purchasing from a non-Verified
seller.  I just purchased some software for $55 and the fee was $1.50.

FYI, the only thing that I dislike it that it takes up to a month for
international accounts to be opened.  I think Paypal could improve this, but
if I accepted international personal checks or money orders, my bank will
charge me a $20 service fee and take up to 3 weeks for the check to clear.
Personally, losing that $20 and the waiting time means a lot to me... so I
will accept the wait for the international account to open.  Our policy at
the Classroom is to allow international students in the class and when the
account is opened, they send me a payment.  We have had several
international students pay via new Paypal accounts and they are worth this
wait.  I have only been burned one time with someone not paying.  That is
not a bad record.

As for accounts being frozen... I once had my account frozen.  I asked for
it and they acted immediately.  A long time ago, I caught someone money
laundering.  A person deposited $800 into my account and in 15 minutes, they
removed $775 from my account.  The person gave me $25 for my trouble.
LOL!!!  I guess they thought if they left me some money, I would not say
anything.  What this hacker did was took about $25 from one account, sent it
to someone else's account, removed a little more to another account and kept
building it up until he moved it to my account.  Then they paid for an
online gambling debt with the money.  Back then, I was online all the time,
and watched the person while he/she was doing the crime.  I notified Paypal
immediately, had them freeze my account for a week.  They also froze all the
other people's accounts when they followed this thief's trail.  I called my
local police and they got involved along with Paypal's local police.  All
parties were very cooperative.   So if your account is frozen and they won't
give you a reason... please remember, Paypal or the police may be tracking
down some internet fraud.  Please remember that when they are investigating
internet fraud, they will not give you the details.  Just like in a murder
mystery, everyone is a suspect.  Now if this scares you of hackers... every
large association and govt. have been hacked into.  Watch the shows on Tech
TV about Cyber Crimes or hackers.  It is a fact that we all chose to deal
with on the internet or when using a check or credit card in real life.  If
someone really wants your information or money, they can get it.

Some things to prevent someone from getting into any of your internet
accounts is to change the password frequently.   If you have multiple email
accounts, don't set up a money account with an email address that you use
frequently.  And don't give out that email address except when dealing
directly with the person.   When I talked with the police about this cyber
crime, the first thing, they wanted to know was who in MY family knew my
passwords.  That upset me, to think of my internet savvy kids were a
suspect.  Since then only two trusted souls know my passwords, and they only
know them in case something happens to me.  The detective also suggested to
not write down passwords to money accounts of any kind.   All the police and
Paypal would tell me in the end was that the crime was solved and that
security had been improved.

I like to think because I can use Paypal and our students can use Paypal
that a lot of people are receiving education that otherwise they might not
have received.  So it is all well worth it!!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manhattan/NJ fabric & bead stores?
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 06:35:57 -0500
Status: RO

Just wandering in downtown Manhattan, through those whole streets of fabric
stores!  is just the best.  And we have found the best stuff that way, which
is why I can't say we have a favorite store.   It is about 4+ hours to get
from here in upstate NY to there, so I also don't get there often enough to
have a favorite.   But wandering in and out....   sigh, as if I don't have 2
rooms of fabric now, to support my touchy-feely addiction.
    How are you getting there?  If you are driving through Central NY,
between Syracuse and Albany,  people are always welcome to stop by and stay!
Rowena

----- Original Message -----
From: "Herself-the-Elf" <
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 12:20 AM

> Hi all, I'm heading down to the US for the holidays and am wondering if
> anybody has any favourite fabric and/or bead stores in Manhattan or
> Northeastern Jersey that they could recommend.  Might as well see if I can
> pick up some neat stuff while I'm there...^_^

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 07:22:56 -0500
Status: RO



I believe Orvis showed one in their winter catalog, try www.orvis.com .
Also, you can occasionally find the J.Peterman "Out of Africa" hunting suit 
listed on ebay. I was able to find one for my husband at a very reasonable 
price. Hope this helps - Kelly



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Subject: [h-cost] A future in costume
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 23:36:48 +1030
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<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>Delurking to brag about some good news!</DIV>
<DIV>I just got a letter saying that I've been accepted into the costuming course that&nbsp;I had applied to. Its at the Roma Mitchell Arts Education Centre, in Adelaide, South Australia. I don't really know what to expect, the one thing that&nbsp;I do know is that I will be expected to put in many hours of work. I am really looking forward to the opportunity to realise my dream of a career in costume.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca</DIV></DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr> <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMFEN/2015">3 months FREE*.</a> </html>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 20 08:45:39 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manhattan/NJ fabric & bead stores?
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 08:40:09 -0500
Status: RO

Maral wrote:

>Hi all, I'm heading down to the US for the holidays and am wondering if
>anybody has any favourite fabric and/or bead stores in Manhattan or
>Northeastern Jersey that they could recommend.

Yup. In Manhattan, go to Paron Fabrics and to Poli Fabrics. Paron has 
several locations; the only one I've been too is on the south (downtown) 
side of West 57th St. between 5th Ave. and Ave. of the Americas. Poli, IIRC 
(if they're still in bsns) is on the same block -- as is Greenberg and 
Hammer. There are a few other fabric stores on that block, on both sides of 
the street, but they look to be a bit pricey.
There are apparently some good fabric shops in the garment district (West 
38th-42nd Sts. between Ave. of the Americas and 9th Ave.), but I haven't 
lucked into any yet. Many of those stores are closed on Saturday, or closed 
the entire weekend.

For beads, I don't know if they're open on weekends, but try either Sheru 
or Cindarella. Both are just east of Avenue of the Americas, I think on 
36th or 38th St. (I don't recall which offhand).  Also, check out M & J 
trimmings on Avenue of the Americas, I think between 36th and 38th Sts.

For inexpensive stuff, look in NJ for the nearest "Rag Shop" 
<http://www.ragshop.com> Their flatfolds are sometimes interesting, 
especially in the home dec department. They sell beads, too, but mostly the 
run-of-the-mill type of stuff you can find in any craft store chain in the 
US (e.g. Michael's, A.C. Moore, Hobby Lobby, etc.). Also check out the 
nearest Treasure Island for beads, ribbons, and trinkets. Check their 
clearance aisles for the *really* good deals... though you'll have to 
rummage through a lot of crap to find them.


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 06:57:27 -0700
Status: RO


If you are not seeing your own posts to the list, please contact your
sysadmins and see whether or not they are filtering anything that
looks like you're sending it to yourself.  With the influx of spam
with forged headers that look like it came to you from yourself, I
wouldn't be surprised if they're nuking them automatically.

Possible solution: 
It's possible for me to change the headers on the messages so all list
mail comes from the list and not from the individual.  However, this
means people will NOT see any sender information in the header other
than the list.  If you want people to know who sent the email and to
have your address, you will have to include that information in the
body of the message.  This will bypass the spam filters catching email
as outlined above, but will cause some confusion to the list members.

Thanks,
                                                ...eliz
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 06:36:23 -0800
Status: RO

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Well Congratulations!!!!

How exciting.  What type of costuming interests you the most?  What is =
the course like?  That is great news!!

Lisa
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Rebecca Anderson=20
  To: h-costume@net.indra.com=20
  Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 5:06 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] A future in costume


  Delurking to brag about some good news!
  I just got a letter saying that I've been accepted into the costuming =
course that I had applied to. Its at the Roma Mitchell Arts Education =
Centre, in Adelaide, South Australia. I don't really know what to =
expect, the one thing that I do know is that I will be expected to put =
in many hours of work. I am really looking forward to the opportunity to =
realise my dream of a career in costume.

  Rebecca


-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
  3 months FREE*. _______________________________________________ =
h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Well Congratulations!!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>How exciting.&nbsp; What type of =
costuming=20
interests you the most?&nbsp; What is the course like?&nbsp; That is =
great=20
news!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lisa</FONT></DIV>
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black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dlady_adele@hotmail.com =
href=3D"mailto:lady_adele@hotmail.com">Rebecca=20
  Anderson</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
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  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, December 20, 2002 =
5:06=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] A future in=20
  costume</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>
  <DIV>
  <DIV>
  <DIV>Delurking to brag about some good news!</DIV>
  <DIV>I just got a letter saying that I've been accepted into the =
costuming=20
  course that&nbsp;I had applied to. Its at the Roma Mitchell Arts =
Education=20
  Centre, in Adelaide, South Australia. I don't really know what to =
expect, the=20
  one thing that&nbsp;I do know is that I will be expected to put in =
many hours=20
  of work. I am really looking forward to the opportunity to realise my =
dream of=20
  a career in costume.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Rebecca</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><BR clear=3Dall>
  <HR>
  <A href=3D"http://g.msn.com/8HMFEN/2015">3 months FREE*.</A>=20
  _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list =

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From: kate <macailith@yahoo.com>
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 06:30:46 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
> >
>
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg
> How about on the arm that's outstretched? There is a
> more prominant poof
> happening there. I see what you mean baout the bend,
> it really does look
> like the sleeve closest to the veiwer has a poof
> created just fromt he bend,
> but the arm holding the sketch has an even biger
> bump.

Your guess is as good as mine. This gown is relatively
unique--it has a bunch of uncommon things going
on...the stripes, the slashes just around the elbow
area, the front lacing, as well as the flounce. 

I think that a possibile reason for the pouf at the
elbow is that perhaps her chemise sleeve has pooled
around her elbow filling out the extra room created by
the slashes gaping open (gaping caused by her bending
her arm) which in turn creates the pouf at the upper
part of the lower sleeve. 

Kind of like when you were a kid wearing tights that
bag at the knees, you know? 

just my .02

kate (the other one) :-)

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto costume book
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 10:50:59 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Fri, 20 Dec 2002, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi.
>
> Did any of you notice the stunning beautifull Elizabethan Jacket in the
> large Costume book from Kyoto?

Yes, I saw it, and meant to post something to the list; it is definitely a
shame that we can't see more of it.  I'd really love to see more
details...

-- Mara

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 11:15:29 -0500
Status: RO

        Thanks Penny and Margo.  When I first jumped in to defend Pay
Pal, I was afraid I was going to be flamed off the list.  Nice to know
that they are, indeed, as good as I thought.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs etc
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 14:12:17 -0500
Status: RO

There is a quote regarding the lack of Elizabeth's clothing that mentions "biggins" as follows:

beseeching you to be [a] good lord to my lady...that she may have some raiment for she hath neither gown, not kirtle nor sleeves, nor railes, nor body stitchets, nor handkerchiefs, nor mufflers nor biggins. All this her grace must have. I have driven off as long as I can, that be my troth I can drive it no longer. Beseeching you my lord that ye will see that her grace may have that [which] is needful for her. 

This is a cut and paste of Drea's article from her site.

What is the OED by the way???

Cheers

Lisa - last day on a temp job with nothing to do but surf the net!!!!

In a message dated 12/10/2002 6:37:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes:

>Joy Shillaker <joyshillaker@hotmail.com> wrote
>>Thanks for the comments and advice.
>>The earliest reference to bigon (yet another spelling) I have in my 
>>research is 1608, Rachael, but I trust the OED. The raile,rayle 
>>reference is brilliant Kate, thanks.
>>
>>Another term that I'm finding difficult to pin down is partlett.There 
>>are kerchers, neckerchers headkerchers and so on but no partlett. Is 
>>this because it's a high class garment?
>>
>>The hardest thing I'm finding in my research is that so much for the 
>>earlier period is in Latin. Pilum for cap appears and so does camecia 
>>for smock. Is there such a thing as 'Tudor and Elizabethan latin?
>>
>>regards
>>Joy
>>(who is returning to the 17th century asap)
>>
>Certainly there is Medieval latin, which is clearly distinct from 
>Classical latin, and you will find dictionaries for it which list the 
>new meanings of classical words, and the new words invented for new 
>things.  I'm not sure that 16th century latin would be seen as a 
>distinct type, but there are probably scholars who specialise in that 
>period and are familiar with the "dialect" of the time.  However, your 
>problem is always finding scholars who understand both the latin and the 
>costume - they may know that pilum means something worn on the head, but 
>can they distinguish it from other types of hat/cap/veil/hood....?
>
>Jean
>
>-- 
>Jean Waddie
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 19:18:51 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- LSinervo@aol.com wrote: 

> What is the OED by the way???

Oxford English Dictionary?



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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 21:10:33 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I thought you might be amused to hear of a production of Macbeth where
the director insists on authentic Scottish dress.
As shown in 'Braveheart'

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Lecturing in California
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:59:04 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


For those who are interested: I'll be lecturing on Friday, Jan. 24, in
Santa Cruz, California, on the Gothic fitted dress and the Greenland gored
gown. The lecture is being sponsored by several SCA groups in that area
and the kingdom's costuming guild.

Seats are limited to 40, many of which are already spoken for, so if
you're interested, I'd suggest you contact Rose de LeMans
(rose@santiagosmagic.com) or Gianetta del Bene (joycebre@sbcglobal.net)
ASAP to sign up.  Cost is $5. (There is no non-member surcharge, so if you
see a reference to that, ignore it.)

You'll find more information here: <http://www.caerdarth.org> (follow the
link to the flyer)

...or you can email me for a copy of the same flyer.

--Robin



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Subject: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 16:45:22 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Does anyone have any good tests or clues on identifying the metal used in
a metallic fabric?

The fabric in question is sheer and woven in one direction in gold. The
threads in the other direction are probably either silk or rayon. The bolt
is very heavy. The metal doesn't burn or melt. (This is what I am told. I
haven't yet seen the fabric.)

Any ideas on where to start in identifying the metal -- e.g. chemical
tests -- and assessing the value? Has anyone seen anything like this for
sale online I could compare it to?

--Robin

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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:41:48 -0800 (PST)
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Dear Robin.

If you try and dissolve the metal in acid, then you can determine wether it is gold or other metal. The only acid that will dissolve gold is Royal Water, which is a combination of two really strong acids I cannot remember the name of.

Otherwise I have no other bright ideas.

Tania

Any ideas on where to start in identifying the metal -- 
e.g. chemical
tests -- and assessing the value? Has anyone seen anything 
like this for
sale online I could compare it to?

--Robin





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<P><FONT size=3>Dear Robin.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>If you try and dissolve the metal in acid, then you can determine wether it is gold or other metal. The only acid that will dissolve gold is Royal Water, which is a combination of two really strong acids I cannot remember the name of.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>Otherwise I have no other bright ideas.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>Tania</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>Any ideas on where to start in identifying the metal -- <BR>e.g. chemical<BR>tests -- and assessing the value? Has anyone seen anything <BR>like this for<BR>sale online I could compare it to?<BR><BR>--Robin<BR><BR></P></FONT><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Yahoo! Mail Plus</a> - Powerful. Affordable. <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Sign up now</a>
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:43:18 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO


> Your guess is as good as mine. This gown is
> relatively
> unique--it has a bunch of uncommon things going
> on...the stripes, the slashes just around the elbow
> area, the front lacing, as well as the flounce. 


This is perhaps because this is an allegorical
painting, and so the artist has used his artistic
license to create something that's unusual, whilst
still retaining enough of the contemporary look to
have his viewers identify with the heroic Lucrezia.



Bella

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:07:47 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 20 Dec 2002, Tania Gruning wrote:

> If you try and dissolve the metal in acid, then you can determine
> wether it is gold or other metal. The only acid that will dissolve
> gold is Royal Water, which is a combination of two really strong acids
> I cannot remember the name of.

Thanks! Would vinegar be sufficiently acidic to show a difference, or is
there another acid I could find around the house that would be better?

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:23:44 -0600
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Aqua Regia, a combination of nitric and hydrochloric acid. Really nasty
stuff. I don't recommend it for home use.

Talia
  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Tania Gruning
  Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 5:42 PM
  To: h-costume@indra.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric


  Dear Robin.

  If you try and dissolve the metal in acid, then you can determine wether
it is gold or other metal. The only acid that will dissolve gold is Royal
Water, which is a combination of two really strong acids I cannot remember
the name of.

  Otherwise I have no other bright ideas.

  Tania

  Any ideas on where to start in identifying the metal --
  e.g. chemical
  tests -- and assessing the value? Has anyone seen anything
  like this for
  sale online I could compare it to?

  --Robin







----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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<DIV><SPAN class=3D434482200-21122002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
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Regia, a combination of nitric and hydrochloric acid. Really nasty =
stuff. I=20
don't recommend it for home use.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
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size=3D2>Talia</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
h-costume-admin@indra.com=20
  [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Tania=20
  Gruning<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, December 20, 2002 5:42 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
  h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal =
in=20
  fabric<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
  <P><FONT size=3D3>Dear Robin.</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT size=3D3>If you try and dissolve the metal in acid, then you =
can=20
  determine wether it is gold or other metal. The only acid that will =
dissolve=20
  gold is Royal Water, which is a combination of two really strong acids =
I=20
  cannot remember the name of.</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT size=3D3>Otherwise I have no other bright ideas.</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT size=3D3>Tania</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT size=3D3>Any ideas on where to start in identifying the metal =
--=20
  <BR>e.g. chemical<BR>tests -- and assessing the value? Has anyone seen =

  anything <BR>like this for<BR>sale online I could compare it=20
  to?<BR><BR>--Robin<BR><BR></P></FONT>
  <P><BR>
  <HR SIZE=3D1>
  Do you Yahoo!?<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Yaho=
o! Mail=20
  Plus</A> - Powerful. Affordable. <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Sign=
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  now</A></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 04:46:16 -0800
Status: RO

Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I thought you might be amused to hear of a production of Macbeth where
> the director insists on authentic Scottish dress.
> As shown in 'Braveheart'
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie

They scary part is that he could have picked so many worst movies.  Face
it, the kilt is burned into the mind of most people as being Scottish
for all time.  I have learned to deal with it, and unless some one is
going to start a 12-Step group for it we are lost.  I'm still recovering
for the Country & Western version of "A Tale of Two City" something's
are not meant to be done with a southern accent.

-- 
Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lecturing in California
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 04:48:22 -0800
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> For those who are interested: I'll be lecturing on Friday, Jan. 24, in
> Santa Cruz, California, on the Gothic fitted dress and the Greenland gored
> gown. The lecture is being sponsored by several SCA groups in that area
> and the kingdom's costuming guild.
> 

So close and yet so far, as I sit here in Sacramento.  

-- 
Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 16:47:37 -0800 (PST)
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--0-2066044546-1040431657=:51691
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If the metal tarnish by being in acid, then it is not gold. Almost all metals will dissolve in Aqua Regia including gold, so that is not really a good way of finding out, but if you have a metal that will not tarnish in normal acids, then the aqua regia test is good for further tests.

Do not use aqua regia at home as it demands the use of industrial ventilations.

Tania

Thanks! Would vinegar be sufficiently acidic to show a 
difference, or is
there another acid I could find around the house that would 
be better?

--Robin





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<P><FONT size=3>If the metal tarnish by being in acid, then it is not gold. Almost all metals will dissolve in Aqua Regia including gold, so that is not really a good way of finding out, but if you have a metal that will not tarnish in normal acids, then the aqua regia test is good for further tests.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>Do not use aqua regia at home as it demands the use of industrial ventilations.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>Tania</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3>Thanks! Would vinegar be sufficiently acidic to show a <BR>difference, or is<BR>there another acid I could find around the house that would <BR>be better?<BR><BR>--Robin<BR><BR></P></FONT><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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Subject: [h-cost] now Tale of Two Cities (was: 11th century Scottish attire)
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:29:44 -0800
Status: RO



Stephen Bergdahl wrote: (Pruning)

  I'm still recovering
> for the Country & Western version of "A Tale of Two City" something's
> are not meant to be done with a southern accent.


Stephen-

I must have dozed off when _that_ came out. What was the name of 
the...production and who was in it?  Just so I know to duck next time it 
emerges!!!

Thanks,

Theresa Eacker



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>
> Thanks! Would vinegar be sufficiently acidic to show a difference, or is
> there another acid I could find around the house that would be better?

Vinegar is at least worth a try.  I'd wet the metal with vinegar and allow
it to air dry.  Metals other than gold may tarnish.  Are you only looking
for gold/not gold tests, or do you want something more specific?

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 22:34:25 -0500
Status: RO

We're driving down from Toronto...thanks everybody!  Now I just have to put
up with hubby's whingeing "are you done yet?"

-- Maral

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowena" <sleepyunicorn@citlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manhattan/NJ fabric & bead stores?


> Just wandering in downtown Manhattan, through those whole streets of
fabric
> stores!  is just the best.  And we have found the best stuff that way,
which
> is why I can't say we have a favorite store.   It is about 4+ hours to get
> from here in upstate NY to there, so I also don't get there often enough
to
> have a favorite.   But wandering in and out....   sigh, as if I don't have
2
> rooms of fabric now, to support my touchy-feely addiction.
>     How are you getting there?  If you are driving through Central NY,
> between Syracuse and Albany,  people are always welcome to stop by and
stay!
> Rowena
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Herself-the-Elf" <
> Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 12:20 AM
>
> > Hi all, I'm heading down to the US for the holidays and am wondering if
> > anybody has any favourite fabric and/or bead stores in Manhattan or
> > Northeastern Jersey that they could recommend.  Might as well see if I
can
> > pick up some neat stuff while I'm there...^_^
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 11th century Scottish attire
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 23:20:20 -0500
Status: RO

On Friday 20 December 2002 04:10 pm, Stevie Gamble wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I thought you might be amused to hear of a production of Macbeth where
> the director insists on authentic Scottish dress.
> As shown in 'Braveheart'

I hope the director isn't trying for strict authenticity--the story of 
"Braveheart" actually takes place in the 14th century....  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 23:23:25 -0500
Status: RO

On Friday 20 December 2002 02:12 pm, LSinervo@aol.com wrote:
> There is a quote regarding the lack of Elizabeth's clothing that mentions
> "biggins" as follows:
>
> beseeching you to be [a] good lord to my lady...that she may have some
> raiment for she hath neither gown, not kirtle nor sleeves, nor railes, nor
> body stitchets, nor handkerchiefs, nor mufflers nor biggins. All this her
> grace must have. I have driven off as long as I can, that be my troth I can
> drive it no longer. Beseeching you my lord that ye will see that her grace
> may have that [which] is needful for her.
>
> This is a cut and paste of Drea's article from her site.
>
> What is the OED by the way???

The Oxford English Dictionary.  The full edition is multi-volume, but my 
husband and I are lucky to have the Compact OED, which squishes the same text 
into two thick volumes with nearly microscopic print (the sporting publishers 
sell you a magnifying glass with each set).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 00:14:55 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, Robin. First, anyone who told you that the metal wouldn't melt
wasn't using enough heat ;). Strong vinegar should oxidise both silver
and copper based metals. The silver blackens and the copper (brass,
etc.) will turn green.(after sitting out in the air a while, that is)
Heating the solution will enhance it's oxidization properties, as well
as stirring. A magnet will eliminate iron or steel, and a home-based
lead tester from the hardware store will ID lead in the item. If these
don't work, and you haven't already burn-tested the fabric, it might be
mylar, which should burn rather nicely. I am not aware of any other
metals that might occur in fabrics, so please keep us updated on your
progress. None of the above should happen if the metal is real gold of
at least 14kt or better, so good luck.  Mike T. PS unless you heat it,
as gold's melting temp is low. MJT



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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On Fri, 20 Dec 2002, Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:

> > Thanks! Would vinegar be sufficiently acidic to show a difference, or is
> > there another acid I could find around the house that would be better?
> 
> Vinegar is at least worth a try.  I'd wet the metal with vinegar and allow
> it to air dry.  Metals other than gold may tarnish.  Are you only looking
> for gold/not gold tests, or do you want something more specific?

Gold/not gold would be a good start. The goal is to figure out how much
the stuff is worth, so we can price it fairly. 

I don't even have a clue whether there's a name for this type of fabric,
other than "metallic." "Cloth-of-gold" probably isn't right from a
historic sense, even if it's real gold. But I also don't know what might
be sold under that name today.

Is there a name for fabric woven of metal threads?

--Robin




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs etc
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 21:34:27 +0100
Status: RO

> --- LSinervo@aol.com wrote:
> 
>> What is the OED by the way???
> 
> Oxford English Dictionary?
No need for the question mark since that is what it stands for

Cass :)

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 12:22:54 -0500
Status: RO

I seem to be missing digests 1584-1586. Any way to get them remailed (or 
would some kind soul please forward copies to me)? Thanks in advance,


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs etc
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:10:06 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

LSinervo@aol.com wrote:
>beseeching you to be [a] good lord to my lady...that she may
>have some raiment for she hath neither gown, not kirtle nor
>sleeves, nor railes, nor body stitchets, nor handkerchiefs, nor
>mufflers nor biggins. All this her grace must have. I have
>driven off as long as I can, that be my troth I can drive it no
>longer. Beseeching you my lord that ye will see that her grace
>may have that [which] is needful for her. 

Yes, and you'll note that everything onward from "sleeves" is plural. Thus "biggins" is plural, "biggin" singular.

>What is the OED by the way???

Oxford English Dictionary. Gives citations for how the word is used, with dates.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:49:07 -0800
Status: RO

Jewelers often test metals.  You might try searching some sites on
collecting antique jewelry.

Fran

Tania Gruning wrote:

> Dear Robin.
>
> If you try and dissolve the metal in acid, then you can determine
> wether it is gold or other metal. The only acid that will dissolve
> gold is Royal Water, which is a combination of two really strong
> acids I cannot remember the name of.
>
> Otherwise I have no other bright ideas.
>
> Tania
>
> Any ideas on where to start in identifying the metal --
> e.g. chemical
> tests -- and assessing the value? Has anyone seen anything
> like this for
> sale online I could compare it to?
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 01:10:18 2002
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 08:42:44 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hi everyone,
    I didn't get any digests for Friday, Saturday or
Sunday or yet for Monday.  Is everyone okay or just
busy?  Could someone who is getting digests forward me
on those days' worth?  Work is crazy as I work for the
Post Office and I read the digests and unwind.
    Could someone link me up with the information on
the silks and velvets display up in Chicago, if it is
Chicago?  A friend and I are going up to the late
Renaissance Florence display in January and are hoping
to get the Renaissance silks and velvets display on
the same trip.  Aren't we ambitious?
    Drooling over art books while Christmas shopping
and saw a copy of The Lute Player by Orazio
Gentileschi.  Sorry I haven't searched for a link yet
but as this is a good angle on the spiral lacing on
the side back I was wondering if the slit in the skirt
to allow the garment to fit over the hips continued on
below the lacing or if they did some sort of dogleg
opening like we do for the 1860s.  And if it just
continues on into the skirt how did they keep the
skirt from gaping when they moved or leaned like the
lady in the portrait?  Perhaps one of you has a better
copy of the painting and has some insight.
    Projects for 2003 start with getting about 4
corsets from Drea's corset generator made up as gifts
for my daughter's friends and samples for an impromptu
class on Elizabethan corsetry.  Thanks to Drea for the
creation of the custom corset generator and permission
to use it for this class.  Then after that it's
underwear, blackwork, underwear, embroidery and the
Regency class at Penny's site.  I've got a huge list
of projects for which I already own the materails so I
may set myself some iron man projects over the summer.
 Whoever was making the 1890s house dress please share
your pattern source as I have several pictures of
housedresses on the top of my stack of items to do for
fun.
    Last question before it's back to the mountains of
mail....The greater bay area pattern review reviews a
pattern for an 1840s dress from the Texas Chronicle
and Sutter's Fort.  Does anyone know where this
pattern came from and where I can get one, buy or
borrow?  It is exactly what my curator wants for one
of our educational kits and I'm not having any luck
running searches for it.

                              Thanks,
                             Cassandra

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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] STAR WARS III costumes
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 15:04:21 -0700
Status: RO

This would be a fun reason to live in a terrific city!

						...eliz


Wanted: tailors to toil on clothes for far, far away
By Garry Maddox, Film Writer
December 14 2002

As they head back to Sydney, the makers of the next Star Wars episode
have issued a call for help. They need more workers for the costume
department on the final episode - the one in which Anakin Skywalker is
expected to become Darth Vader.

Costume designer Trisha Biggar is seeking "couture-level" sewers,
costume cutters, dyers, milliners, jewellery makers and specialists in
armour and metal headdresses to start in the new year. Filming on
Episode III is expected to begin in about June.

"People at a really top-class level are hard to find wherever you're
working," says Biggar. "We need more than we were able to find last
time we were in Australia. And people move on."

The quality is necessary because the costumes for Star Wars have a
life beyond the film. They go on tour and many are archived at
Skywalker Ranch in California.

"We've always aimed to make them as beautifully as we could, so they
look as good from the back as the front and you can look inside and
they're not going to fall apart immediately filming is finished."

Biggar has a fascinating job on one of cinema's great series. Speaking
from London, she says the costume department on Attack of the Clones
included more than 100 people at its peak.

Virtually all were Australian and there were also commissions from
local embroidery and beading companies.

Biggar says writer-director George Lucas takes cues from different
cultures and art periods in creating the Star Wars world, then gives
them a twist.

She was influenced last time round by Australian art, with one Padme
Amidala outfit inspired by the colours in modern Aboriginal paintings.

"The quality of the light in Australia is so fantastic, that's also
reflected in choices of colours."

So what was she trying to achieve with her costumes in Attack of the
Clones? For Amidala, played by Natalie Portman, Biggar says the
character had grown up while going from queen to senator.

"We were able to show her more feminine side, the more womanly side to
her character."

Anakin, portrayed by Hayden Christensen, had gone from a boy to almost
a Jedi.

"The idea was obviously to hint to the future. The idea of using
leather and the silhouette of his cloak was hopefully going to reflect
a little bit on the Darth Vader silhouette."

While nothing is certain until they see the script, Biggar says a
transition from Anakin to Darth Vader will not change one of cinema's
greatest villains.

"The fans know how Darth Vader looks and I don't think they'd
particularly appreciate a different version suddenly materialising."

Those wanting to apply (by sending a CV to the Star Wars production
office at Fox Studios) could be employed until August-September next
year.

This story was found at:
http://www.smh.com.au/articles/2002/12/13/1039656217578.html
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 09:46:55 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

It also put me in mind of this gown:
http://cgi.www.sandiegomuseum.org/cgi-bin/www.sandiegomuseum.org/image.pl?mode=&painting=123952&axis=1040233065

It's quite lovely. It's on my list of "things to do
when I have more time..."

And if you go into the gift shop and ask for an image
of this painting, she's NOT listed as by "unknown,"
she's listed as having been painted by Bronzino.

kate

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:08:09 -0600
Status: RO

> Oh my goodness, Bjarne, those photios are HUGE, wonderful, gorgeous,
> gobsmacking! *goes to download and drool*


Aaaargh. The only thing I get is a tiny little picture; how do I find
the big ones so I can drool too?

Stevie
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I had that trouble too.  Scroll to the bottom of the page with the
small picture and information on that picture.  There is a jpg link,
click on it for a larger view.

Hope that helps,
Catherine
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Teal wool
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 08:57:59 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Did anyone on this list buy the teal worsted wool at Fashion Fabrics? I
mentioned it a couple of months ago. Please write me directly.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 19:08:02 EST
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--part1_19b.dd25ae4.2b33b962_boundary
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yes, it's happening to me, also!
-Julia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">yes, it's happening to me, also!<BR>
-Julia</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:39:59 -0800
Status: RO

The chopine and/or patten blanks sound interesting, but I cannot find 
the original message in the thread:
"Chopine blanks for sale!"

Where are they they available?

Thanks,

Anahita
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Subject: [h-cost] High-end wools
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 14:31:14 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I lately stumbled on a trade source (New York) of some really
lovely-looking wool fabric. It's out of my price range, but if anyone is
doing high-end reproductions or museum work and needs the perfect
color/weave, you might find it here:

http://www.grabiewoolen.com/

I inquired specifically about twill weaves in worsteds. The owner's son
replied that they have these 2x2 twills in 100% Australian merino worsted
wool: Gabardine, Flannel, Satin Gabardine, Cavalry, Twill and Satin Twill.
Prices are $25.00 - $27.50 per yard for cut pieces (2 to 85 yards) and
$l5.68 to $l8.33 for full bolts (80-85 yards).

Obviously not for the casual costumer, but anyone with a high-end client
might want to bookmark this. These are very reasonable prices for things
like wool satin.

--Robin

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:47:39 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 8:59 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
> 
> 
> > Hi, gang.
> > Do any of you Italian-knowledgable types (yo!
> Bella!) know what part of
> > Italy this style of dress would have come from?
> >
> >
> >  http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?374+0+0

That's by Moretto da Brescia, and as his name implies
he worked mainly on the Venetian mainland town of
Brescia. As to where exactly it is from, here are some
clues, keeping in mind that the portrait is dated to
circa 1540....

"2. 1530–54.
Moretto continued to travel in the 1530s: on 23
December 1530 he wrote from Milan to Monsignor Savello
in Salò about the work of G. G. Antegnati, the organ
builder. In 1535 he joined the court of Isabella
d’Este at Solarolo, and he was again in Milan in 1541.
Correspondents included Pietro Aretino, who wrote
thanking him for a portrait (untraced) in 1544. But
above all Moretto continued to work in Brescia, buying
a house in the S Clemente district in 1533 and
becoming increasingly involved in local affairs."

Milan or Brescia seem likely, but I'd also hazard a
guess that the lady may be from either Ferrarra, or
Bergamo, which was then under the jurisdiction of
Venice, but had its own unique style. 



> > It's a bit hard to see in this link, but she's
> wearing a striped
> > shift--the stripes being black monochrome
> embroidery in a linear
> > pattern. <snip>
> > I have seen a few other examples of women wearing
> shifts with
> > embroidered stripes, but they're (so far) all
> earlier or later than this
> > particular portrait.

Yep. Most of the ones I've seen are earlier than this
portrait. You can see other shifts like this on on the
Festive Attyre website. Here are a few:

<http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor29.html>
<http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor17.html>
<http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor33.html>



> > And what *is* that weird ruffle/collar around her
> neck? Has anyone ever
> > seen anything else like that? I'm assuming it's
> some sort of collar for
> > the transparent partlet-thing she's wearing.....


That's what it looks like to me too. Notice the bows
along both shoulders? If they belong to the "partlet",
it's certainly a very unusual style. :)


Bella

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:00:49 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net> wrote: > 
> Are there more photos in the book, or do they have them all on the web
> site?  And thank you for sharing they are too wonderful for words, and
> their all MALE!!!!!!!!!!!!  Nice to see someone doing a display of men's
> clothing.  

There was a BIG exhibition of male clothing in the V&A this summer: Men in
Skirts. Lots of wonderful historical costumes and modern skirt-fashion for men.
I do agree though Stephen, being the maker of male costumes and almost never
female one I can only whine and winge: get it going, there are more than just
frock-lovers! *laughs*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Norfolk jackets?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 15:21:36 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Yes, I'm in the US, but if you see one in a 46 long... :)

-- Mara

On Thu, 19 Dec 2002, Melanie Wilson wrote:

> There are usually a few in English Charity shops, but I'm guessing you are
> in the US ?
>
> Mel

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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 08:08:18 -0800
Status: RO

I cannot find the original message in the thread:
"Chopine blanks for sale!"

Where are they?

Anahita
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Subject: [h-cost] Acetate colour changes (was Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?)
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 14:25:21 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Kendra Van Cleave <kendrav@attbi.com> wrote: 
> Acetate also can eventually change color unevenly --
> one of my first 1860's
> ballgowns was made of purple acetate moire, and it
> eventually (after 5-8
> years) turned pink in the folds of the skirt.  I
> remember this topic coming
> up on the list , and it seemed the consensus was
> that acetate just does
> this, and that there's no way to prevent/repair the
> damage.


I heard this mentioned on another list recently, and
went digging around to see if I could find anything on
an acetate-related colour-change problem. Here's what
I found:

>>>>>>>>>
As far as I know 'fugitive dye' refers to the dye
itself, not any particular problem with the fibre,
although acetates do have to be dyed with appropriate
dyes in the first place. I couldn't find anything that
states there is this problem with *only* with acetate.


I did find something on atmospheric fading and ozone
fading that is very interesting. Note the words
*change of hue* and *change of shade*. If your friend
lives in a high pollution area, or burns fuels for
warmth, one of these may be what happened to your
friend's acetate. Storing it in plastic may also cause
changes. There is nothing I can find to indicate that
acetate is more likely to have this happen to it
though.

"OZONE FADING: An irreversible change in hue that when
dyed or printed textiles are exposed to ozone. Ozone
fading is particularly prevalent under severe
conditions of atmospheric pollution. Different from
gas fading."

GAS FADING: See Atmospheric fading
ATMOSPHERIC FADING: Also called Acid fading, Fume
fading, and Gas fading. The change of shade exhibited
by some dyes, when exposed to certain gases,
principally oxides of nitrogen, given off during the
burning of fuels. Inhibitors may be used to counteract
this tendency or resistant dyes may be used."
<http://www.resil.com/dictionary/dictionary.htm>


"Never Store in Plastic Bags - Plastic bags are
petroleum-based products. Plastic can break down over
time giving off chemicals and fumes that can discolor
and destroy fabrics."
<http://www.fabriclink.com/Weddinggowns.html#Storing>



Bella


http://greetings.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Greetings
- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal (long)
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 14:32:31 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Well, Lalah, one can have one's account hacked by anyone -- credit card,
bank account, PayPal account, doesn't matter.  It pays to be vigilant and
change one's password frequently, regardless of the type of account.

If you've had good experiences with PayPal, fine; I haven't had any
personal problems, either, but when I saw the email I passed along, I
immediately went to PayPal and changed my password, and am going to keep a
much closer eye on the account in the future.  That was my point.

-- Mara


On Fri, 20 Dec 2002, Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:

>         Thanks Penny and Margo.  When I first jumped in to defend Pay
> Pal, I was afraid I was going to be flamed off the list.  Nice to know
> that they are, indeed, as good as I thought.
>
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] High-end wools
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:22:39 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 15 Dec 2002, Brenda Bell wrote:

> >I lately stumbled on a trade source (New York) of some really
> >lovely-looking wool fabric. It's out of my price range, but if anyone is
> >doing high-end reproductions or museum work and needs the perfect
> >color/weave, you might find it here:
> >http://www.grabiewoolen.com/
> 
> Oooohhhhh...... aaaaahhhhhhh..... pretty...... and within a 20-min.
> bus or bicycle ride from Mom's place in Queens. (And to think I never
> knew they were there...)

They're probably wholesale only, and probably don't have a storefront, if
I'm guessing right. If you go, you might want to inquire ahead via phone
or email, in case they don't take walk-in business. They offered to send
me a color card of the types I was interested in; you might ask if you can
come by in person to see samples, and to pick up yardage. I also don't
know if they sell only "to the trade." Not an issue for me, and probably
not an issue for anyone buying from out-of-state, as out-of-staters don't
pay sales tax on mail orders and thus don't need a NY state tax number.
But the wholesale restriction may prevent them from selling directly in
the store.

> >I inquired specifically about twill weaves in worsteds. The owner's son
> >replied that they have these 2x2 twills in 100% Australian merino worsted
> >wool: Gabardine, Flannel, Satin Gabardine, Cavalry, Twill and Satin Twill.
> >Prices are $25.00 - $27.50 per yard for cut pieces (2 to 85 yards)
> 
> ***2-yard*** and up cut pieces? <*eyes brighten; ears perk up*>

Yes. Their low minimum (2 yards, which is probably called a "sample cut")
is unusual in wholesaling. $27.50 is a very good price for wool satin, in
particular, and the color range is huge.

If you contact them, tell me how it works out.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Moorish garb, was De-lurking...with a medieval question.
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:56:49 -0800
Status: RO

From: "Herself-the-Elf" <herself-the-elf@rogers.com>
>my guy.  I don't think he's likely to want to wear a houppelande or some
>such, and definitely not the silly shoes.  So I'm trying to think of
>something different that would still be period (late 14th to early 15th c).
>He's got dark skin, so I was thinking maybe a nifty Moorish costume of some
>sort.  Does anybody have any information on Moorish (or any
>middle-eastern/North African) costume of this era?  I haven't been able to
>find much detailed info online...
>
>-- Maral

I have a fair amount of stuff on my website which is devoted to 
al-Maghrib (i.e, Western North Africa, aka Morocco, Algerian, 
Tunisia) and al-Andalus

http://witch.drak.net/lilinah

If you have more questions, ask me.

Anahita al-Qurtubiyya
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Weird openings (Re: Royal Armory Stockholm)
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 07:54:33 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > 
> I was very surprised how beautifull blue wool looks with gold embroidery.

It's actually purple, Bjarne. I have an exhibition catalogue on thse clothes
from the late 1980s, and the suit is a wonderful deep purple colour, like the
one in the detail picture.

Re the opening, the asymmetrical one, though it's almost my period of study, I
still have to say that I don't have a clue why they did this. ;-)

Nicole

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:41:15 -0600
Status: RO

Look in their catalog under 'Miscellaneus' and go to the bottom of the
page. There's no picture but they are listed as $60 Aus.


Karen

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen cloak, was next years projekts.
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 08:30:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net> wrote: > I can think of one problem with
this -- if it snows, the linen will get 
> wet, of course, and damp.  Wool repels water somewhat and you'll be able to 
> brush most of the snow off, and even when wool gets wet it still keeps you 
> warm. 

I agree, and would like to add, if you spray the bejeezus out of your woolen
cloak with a water repellent spray (I can't think of the right term, that stuff
that is used for furniture as well) then it works a treat. My linen hood gets
wet quite easily and then sags and hangs and takes ages to dry, but a woolen
one over it and a cloak (both sprayed) works beautifully. Also, linen doesn't
keep you warm. While I love it, it doesn't have good insulating properties in
the cold, only in the warm.

Nicole

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 13:24:02 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Try taking the "s" off "fabrics." The URL is:

http://www.trimfabric.com

--Robin


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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah Fourment
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:35:16 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

> Kendra Van Cleave wrote:
>
> > These are probably too late (as in period-wise), but the Musee d'Orsay sells
> > some beautiful reproduction jewelry based on paintings in their collection.
> > They have a couple of pearl drop earrings.
> >
> > http://www.shop.musee-orsay.fr/EN/gamme.asp?gamme%5Fid=5
> >
> > - Kendra

Oooh, thank you!  Well, the Georges de la Tour earrings might just work...

- Mara

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:47:41 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002 lotsofteapots@charter.net wrote:

> Robin - where do you find 100% wool online that isn't pinstripe or
> plaid? I'm obviously not looking in the right places :-)

http://www.fashionfabricsonline.com
	I work for the brick-and-mortar store, so I get to see a lot of
this stuff. Wool comes and goes. Probably not much more coming this
season. Search on "100% wool" from the search form. Note the worsted wools
in red, green, and navy for $6-$7 per yard. These will be fine, smooth
wools (think men's suits, but better colors) good for fitted dresses and
the like, not wool cloaks. Someone already bought all the teal worsted I
had my eye on, though, at $6/yard. I believe you'll also find some decent
blends; I haven't looked.

http://www.periodfabric.com/
	Never ordered from them, but got the recommendation from someone
on this list. Looks promising.

http://www.trimfabric.com/
	As someone already mentioned.

http://www.fabricclub.com/
	Occasional wools, including worsteds. I've ordered other fabrics
from them and have been happy with the service.

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/index.html
	Use the category list to go to "Woolens." Selection is sparse,
very few solids, maybe some gems here and there. I haven't ordered from
them, but they're mentioned a lot.

http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/
	My favorite brick-and-mortar store (four stores in the Chicago
area) now has some online shopping, though it's just a tiny fraction of
what's in the store, from what I can tell. If I had a specific request,
I'd be not at all hesitant to call them and ask what they have in some
particular type or color. I will probably email them soon and ask if they
have a 100% wool worsted in Wedgwood blue; I've had no luck finding one,
and it's holding up the rest of my work.

Canadians might want to keep an eye on this one:
http://www.reallygoodfabricstore.com/index.html
	Not much selection yet, but it looks like the site is still in
progress.


> What about wool/poly blends vs. 100% wool? I know 100% is better, but
> blends are more plentiful and affordable :-)

If the price is right, it's a good compromise. A blend will wear and work
better than a total synthetic. The more wool in the blend, the better. I'd
watch for a wool/rayon blend over a wool/poly, but wool/poly seems to be
more numerous.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 09:22:16 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


> --- michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
> >
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg
> > How about on the arm that's outstretched? There is a more prominant
> > poof happening there. I see what you mean baout the bend,
> > it really does look like the sleeve closest to the veiwer has a poof
> > created just fromt he bend,
> > but the arm holding the sketch has an even biger bump.

Perhaps this is the artist's means of showing foreshortening -- that is,
the arm is bent, but bent away from us, so her arm is not outstretched but
curved toward us so we can't see the angle of the elbow.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Noel Noel!
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 20:55:49 -0800
Status: RO


Hi everyone --

Thought perhaps in honor of the season some of the late period gang at least 
would like to see the new page I've added to the Renaissance site.

Keeping an Elizabethan Christmas is at 
<http://ren.dm.net/compendium/63.html>

Let me know what you think!


MaggiRos
~The Elizabethan World is http://ren.dm.net




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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 05:48:17 +0000
Status: RO

I'm coming into this late - had an attack of real life and my email got away 
from me...

Next Year's Projects (in no particular order)

-at least one pair of salvar, preferably two, for Him
-a kataginu (Japanese vest) for Him
-a shirt based on the Islamic one in Burnham's Cut my Cote for Him
-a Jacobean jacket by the first weekend in Fabruary for me
-a GFD for me
-a partlet for me (another layer of sun protection is always a Good Idea!)
-finsh my Italian corded stays
-an Italian gown to go over those corded stays
-my own pair of salvar

and other things as time permits...

Mary/Katerine

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:48:19 -0500
Status: RO

<<< I originally thought it was just a tuck in the skirt fabric too. 
However, the actual skirt appears to be furred (from the little bit 
you see down the center front) but the peplum doesn't have the same 
fur, nor does it have the bulk which fur would give it. Also, it 
doesn't, as you mentioned, appear to be pinned. And if you add to 
that the occasional references to "skirted bodices", you can deduce 
that it is probably a peplum (skirted bodice) as opposed to a tucked 
skirt (something I haven't seen referred to in Italian clothing 
descriptions>>>

        I would hate to have to dress anyone in that kind of garb if that
is a skirted bodice.  The stripes match exactly and the folds are exactly
the same as the skirt.  Now, this may be due to the painter, but unless
it was a quirk of all painters of the time, it doesn't seem likely
considering the number of pictures that show this line.  At first I
thought it was cartridge pleating done with the folded part outside
instead of inside, but some of the gathers are not even enough.  As far
as the fur goes, I seriously doubt that even in times of "pleasingly
plump" ladies they would have wanted that much added to their waistline,
so I expect the fur didn't start right at the waist.  It would be far
easier to have a band of linen with the fur attached so the waist would
bulge.  

        Just the observations of an old seamstress who is new to the
middle ages. 

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:26:54 GMT
Status: RO

Christina L Biles <bilescl@okstate.edu> wrote :


> There is a style of German Renn codpieces where the codpiece is slashed in 
> a couple of places on either side and fabric is pulled through.  In the 
> more extreme cases, huge swags of fabric are pulled through, looking 
> rather like a gigantic bow 

How very.... subtle?

Thinks: that would be quite a quick modification to make to an existing garment?

Could you point me at any pictures of this sort of thing, so I can show the intended victim what he has to look forward to?




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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:41:12 -0700
Status: RO

On Mon, Dec 16, 2002 at 03:39:18PM -0000, Stevie Gamble wrote:
> Aaaargh. The only thing I get is a tiny little picture; how do I find
> the big ones so I can drool too?

Clink on the link in the last line of the table, the one that ends in
'.jpg'.

						...eliz

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Bumrolls, was Fox tails, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor question
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 21:03:12 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> > ... You can find some earlier threads on this
> > topic collected at <http://www.netherton.net/robin>.
> 
> [rest of text cut]
> 
> Robin, if you ever make a sketch of your idea as to what support
> structure the "wheel" farthingale may have had, I'd appreciate it if
> you could post a URL to it or send me (privately) an image of same.  

I believe there's a pretty detailed description in the collection of posts
at the URL above, including notes on construction.

At some point I'll find someone who can fit into the costume Verna and I
made so I can get some decent photos. I've had two kids and will never
be able to wear it myself again :-P

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 06:53:57 -0700
Status: RO


FYI, if your email address bounces mail back for several days (3-5,
depending on list volume), you will be automatically unsubbed from the
list.

						...eliz
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:31:59 -0500
Status: RO

Hi. You can try San Francisco Herb Company. I believe they are online,
although I don't have their address to hand. We have gotten cream of tartar
and madder root from them, as well as a number of other cooking and herbal
items. They sell in large volumes and I think they have a 100 dollar minimum
order. You can get a hardcopy catalog, too. Good Luck, Mike T.



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Subject: [h-cost] The camisa margomada
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:26:02 -0500
Status: RO


   Gentle Cousins,

       I am posting this to both clothing lists I am on, so my apologies
to those of  you who get this twice!

       There is a woman in my local group who is interested in 13th
century Spanish clothing.  While I do not have a great deal of interest
myself, the 'hunt' for clues has been a lot of fun, and I have become
slightly (*very* slightly) conversant on the subject, as the clothes are
so different from English clothes.  Isabel (my friend) has a photo-copy
of Gomez-Moreno's book, and her mother just brought her two volumes that
discuss the frescos in the Alhambra--these are paper-bound, in orange and
black.  (I neglected to mention my knowledge of Spanish is 20-some odd
years ago for one year of high school Spanish!)

       One of the volumes from the Alhambra has an illumination from the
Cantigas (and I don't remember who commissioned the cantigas).  This
shows a woman embroidering a 'camisa margomada', and Isabel has figured
out where the embroidery is placed on the camisa, from some other
illuminations from the cantigas.  In the book on the Alhambra, the
discussion of the camisa margomada includes a photograph of embroidery on
an "Almohada" of San Fernando, and the textile in question is from the
Capilla Real in Madrid.  Because the motif on the textile resembles the
embroidery on the camisas in the Cantigas illuminations, Isabel was
wondering if anyone knew what kind of stitch(es) was/were used on that
textile, since she has not been able to track down a good photo of a
recovered camisa margomada (if any of them have even been recovered).

    The photo of the "Almohada" in the book from the Alhambra was simply
not good enough to distinguish details, although we did wonder if some
kind of a counted thread stitch was used.

    Thanks for taking time to read this (long!) question!

     Elizabeth

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 01:36:17 2002
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 16:32:21 -0500
Status: RO


Well, I don't think it looks too small at all. The bodice looks tight, yes,
but not too small. And the rest of it looks like . . . well, I still stick
by my "overstuffed upholstery" opinion. The puffs are all way too puffy, and
they look stuffed with something, not like they are just puffs of fabric. It
may very well be painted just as it was (in which case -- ugh!) but as other
people have pointed out, similar dresses are shown much less extreme. So you
could go with a toned-down version.

Gail Finke


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Subject: [h-cost] Norfolk jacket
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 09:01:21 -0500
Status: RO



I just remembered another source - check www.historyinthemaking.org , look 
under "men's coustume"
Kelly



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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 19:13:00 +0000
Status: RO

That was supposed to be $5 a yard. :) And I'm so glad I was able to help you 
out! (wg)

Mary/Katerine

>
>On Thu, 12 Dec 2002, Mary Temple wrote:
>
> > I'm not Robin either, but I got some gorgeous lightweight wool for $%
> > a yard here -
> >
> > http://www.fashionfabricsonline.com/home/index.cfm
>
>Mary's apparently the one who bought up the teal wool I was agonizing
>over. And a good thing for me, too, as the last thing I need is more
>greenish stuff. I look wretched in green. But the wool was SOOO gorgeous.
>(It's sold out and technically no longer accessible on the site, but you
>can see it here:
><http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_items.cfm?Query=teal+wool>)
>
>--Robin
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 17:57:38 +0100
Status: RO

>       I did a lot of buying and selling on eBay a year or so ago and
> used Pay Pal.  They had my electronic checking information and NEVER did
> anything that I had not approved.  I don't really think you have to worry
> about them.
> 
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender

I have been using PayPal for over two years and have never had a problem at
all with it and sending money to my American bank account using my German
credit card, receiving from others or sending to others and now recently
sending to and from my German bank account.

Cass :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Weird openings (Re: Royal Armory Stockholm)
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 16:22:47 -0500
Status: RO

<<< What's this for? >>>   Best guess would be the opening starts at the
collar and then goes across the chest and ends at the side.  It would
give a smoother line down the front and eliminate and gaps between hooks
if the wearer gained an ounce or two.  Ladies used stays to keep the
front closed in a straight neat line when the opening was in the front.

        But it is just my guess.  I was so awed by the embroidery I
almost forgot the question.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Barbie historical costumes-vogue
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:52:39 -0800
Status: RO

Have any of you made the Vogue or other companies' Barbie clothes?  Some of 
the retro/historical doll clothes patterns are prettier than ours!!  Theirs 
even come with hat and bag instructions unlike life sized patterns for the 
most part.  I can't stand to work with pieces that small, but I do love to 
see other people's creations!!



Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!


> > No, sorry I forgot to say that they are from the Burda pattern mag for 
>Barbie
> > costumes, that is out of print, but I thought the list would enjoy the
> > costumes.


>
>They make me wish I was Barbie. Beautiful! Did you make the gowns?


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 01:40:58 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah Fourment
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 17:41:38 -0500
Status: RO

Ok, folks, I am annoyed.

I found the PERFECT earrings for the Susannah Fourment outfit on the web 
site of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Unfortunately, when I ordered them, 
I got a message saying that they are out of stock and won't be restocked.

The earrings are here:
http://www.metmuseum.org/store/st_family_viewer.asp?familyID={2AE28399-45B2-11D4-937D-00902786BF44}&shopperID=&FromPage=catjewelry&familyNo=13&catID={0373D311-9571-11D5-9402-00902786BF44}

(or here http://www.metmuseum.org/store/images/Z.jw.I1176.I1930.L%281%29.jpg)

These are the earrings I'm trying to find:
http://www.artchive.com/artchive/R/rubens/rubens_susanna_fourment.jpg.html
As you can see, the details are a bit sketchy, but I figure that if Rubens 
used this style of earring in the Venus painting, it's possible he used the 
same style in the Susannah Fourment portrait as well.

Has anyone seen these earrings, or earrings like them, for sale elsewhere?

poutingly,
Mara

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Subject: [h-cost] brown polished cotton
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 18:47:42 -0500
Status: RO


Brown polished cotton is available at Needle & Thread in Gettysburg, PA. 
(USA). I believe it is in the neighborhood of $8/yard. They do not have a 
web site but are willing to ship items via mail. Their number is 
(717)334-4011. They are quite lovely people to deal with.
Hope this helps - Kelly

(who now returns to lurkdom, thinking about the 20 yards of brown polished 
cotton she purchased in Chicago for $2/yard several years ago and has been 
carefully allocating to "worthy" projects)




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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Armory Stockholm
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 11:17:37 -0700
Status: RO

Elizabeth Lear wrote:
> Too bad my husband's persona is Chinese ...

Stephen Bergdahl:
> Forgive me Eliz, but my first thought when I read that was, "Well that
> can be changed, either the persona or the husband."

That is a change, on both counts!  He used to be a Viking. And my
first husband's persona is Russian.  :)

						...eliz
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 04:46:28 -0800
Status: RO

"3 COSTUME HISTORY BOOKS-ONE PRICE-WOW! Item # 1904267608"

It says: "Here are three classics of costume history: 20,000 YEARS OF 
FASHION by Boucher, HISTORY OF COSTUME by Blanche Payne and THE BOOK OF 
COSTUME by Mila Davenport"

Kayta

    //// \\\
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   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:43:23 -0800
Status: RO

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi.
> There is an exhibition in Stockholm right now about male costumes from 16th
> to 18th century.
> They have a wonderfull museum catalog about the exhibition.
> Gosh it is so expensive to have this interrest, i just got What Clothes
> Reveal and Kyoto Costume book, + the catalog from Munic, heres another one i
> must have!!!
> There are wonderfull pictures here:
> http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Modelejon/Mode_start.htm
> 

Bjarne

Are there more photos in the book, or do they have them all on the web
site?  And thank you for sharing they are too wonderful for words, and
their all MALE!!!!!!!!!!!!  Nice to see someone doing a display of men's
clothing.  

-- 
Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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Subject: [h-cost] Loose gown
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 11:17:12 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

I added a pattern of  my loose gown to my website! :-)
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html
And I this week I will add more pictures!!

Greetings,
        Deredere
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 costume books at once, e-bay
From: Grace Morris <gmorris@providenceday.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:05:08 -0500
Status: RO

Both of these are regularly available on used-book sites.  And the price
doesn't get driven up like on e-bay.

Jessamyn

On 12/12/02 7:46 AM, "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

> "3 COSTUME HISTORY BOOKS-ONE PRICE-WOW! Item # 1904267608"
> 
> It says: "Here are three classics of costume history: 20,000 YEARS OF
> FASHION by Boucher, HISTORY OF COSTUME by Blanche Payne and THE BOOK OF
> COSTUME by Mila Davenport"
> 
> Kayta
> 
>   //// \\\
>  ////-@@\\\
> ((((   7 )))
>  (((  <> ))))
>     )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "lotsofteapots@charter.net" at Dec 11, 2002 02:24:37 PM
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 12:21:39 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I got some really lovely italian wool from www.trimfabrics.com
for about $6/yard.  great quality.  they take about two weeks
to arrive though, as they only ship once a week.

Heather

> 
> Robin - where do you find 100% wool online that isn't pinstripe or plaid?
> I'm obviously not looking in the right places :-)
> 
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> Bristol,
> BRF FOF
> 
> So many books, so little time
> 
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
> 
> 
> 
> > But if you're looking at $4.00 and up, I think you'll ultimately be
> > happier if you hold out for at least a wool blend. For even a dollar more
> > a yard you can often get plenty of nice 100% wools online. And I've found
> > wool gabardines on the clearance section at Jo-Ann's for less than you're
> > thinking of paying for this poly.
> >
> > --Robin
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2nd Quilt Block: Full View
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 10:10:52 -0500
Status: RO

Penny, your quilt is going to be gorgeous! I love the bamboo background and
the use of the costumed figures as cameos. Looking forward to the growing
canvas.  I am working with a piece of the black and white Erte print made up
as an Asian vest.  Using bugtail-rattail satincord, I am embellishing
various ribbon themes on the models. The total effect is going to be classy,
I think.   Kathleen
"

<penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 4:11 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 2nd Quilt Block: Full View


> Okay, I pieced two images together and now you can see a full view of the
> second quilt block I made.  http://www.costumegallery.com/Quilt/block2.jpg
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
>
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 01:49:11 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Dating help patterns
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 12:22:36 +0100
Status: RO

  Hi,
I need some help with dating these patterns.
I know that they are not historical correct.
But it would be nice if I can atleast put some dat to them.
    S8910 Christmascarol
    S7212
    S5958
    S9723
    S9713

Greetings,
        Deredere


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto costume book
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 00:08:05 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.

Did any of you notice the stunning beautifull Elizabethan Jacket in the
large Costume book from Kyoto?

There is only a small picture and only part of the jacket in the book.
Why in heavens name, did they not give us a full picture of the Jacket, now
it is so rare with Elizabethan Jackets.
It looks as if it is embroidered with stump work all over the jacket, small
individual flowers.
Have any og you seen this jacket photographed any other places?
I am most greatfull for this book. It really enlightens me with lots of
informations of dresses that were scarcely not shown anywhere else. The
dresses of the 1790ies and turn of the century to 1800 are very very
interresting, and those kind of dresses have never ben shown before.
Also the robe battante dress (early 1700) was mostly welcome.
I am very pleased with this book, but it is a shame about this Elizabethan
jacket.

Bjarne

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Royal Armory Stockholm
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 15:12:23 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
There is an exhibition in Stockholm right now about male costumes from 16th
to 18th century.
They have a wonderfull museum catalog about the exhibition.
Gosh it is so expensive to have this interrest, i just got What Clothes
Reveal and Kyoto Costume book, + the catalog from Munic, heres another one i
must have!!!
There are wonderfull pictures here:
http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Modelejon/Mode_start.htm


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 01:51:56 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 12:46:59 -0800
Status: RO


>Thing is, as round as I am (and short), this would be a really, really
>unattractive style for me--even on the sitter in the painting, the dress
>looks too small.

Probably because it really is too small.  The 'my cup runneth over' look is 
unflattering on anyone.  But if yours fit like the ones in all the other 
Italian paintings from this period, you'd look fine.


Kayta

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 01:52:47 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 projects
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:42:30 -0800
Status: RO

On the plate for next year are:

New SCA tourney clothes 
For myself (9th Century Rus), 
Heidi (9th Century Middle Eastern still not sure where, but we are
working on it) 
Raymond (9th Century Byzantine)
And Uncle Dizzy who we just try to keep from looking too mundane.

New Renn Faire Costumes - 
White Damask Noble, trimmed in blue for me (As soon as Margo gets the
pattern done)
New green wench costume for Heidi (I try, really I do!),
A red velvet long gown for Raymond, (he is walking so it's out of lower
class into noble, his Mom can play wet nurse.)
Add more trim and beads to Dizzy's Green Man Costume
Start work on the Holly King and the Oak King for Dizzy (Can't tell he
likes the Green Man)

Figure out and make the costumes for the Masquerades at Costume Con 21
For Historical I am thinking of making an Undertaker's Suit - Civil War
1864 - All I have to find is gold teeth for the watch chain.
No clue for the Fantasy yet.  But it must be bright, and strange. ( Ask
Teddy for ideas)

Get ready to teach Classes at Costume Con 21

Hold Local Paper tape dummy class

Make a Paper Tape Dummy Video - For Sale at a later date.

I will be mentoring two of the High School Students at Raymond's school
for their senior projects.  (That should be fun!)

Heidi needs work clothes

By wardrobe is to dull, and needs up dating.

And I will be teaching 6 classes at the Costume Classroom.

As well as doing the Research on lower class men's clothing, and working
on my Viking's kitchen.

I also want to do an article for TI on children's costumes that grown
with them.

Right now I need a dose of chocolate and a nap.

Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing Day - Last Notice!!!
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:26:38 -0600
Status: RO

sounds like fun. In what state/country is this event being held?


Denise
landofoz@netins.nett


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 01:54:29 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Giovanni del Biondo - Altarpiece of the Baptist
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:01:57 -0800
Status: RO

Hi everyone, 

I'm searching for a large picture in a book of Giovanni del Biondo's Altarpice of the Baptist (1360's Florence).  I've looked at the online versions and the picture I need is a small one on the lower right hand side - the online sites don't have enough resolution for me to be able to zoom it up enough to see details.  I have a copy in my catalog from the Uffizi, but it's going to pixelate (sp?) if I zoom it up too much.

If anyone out there can refer me to something, I'd be eternally grateful!

Thanks,

Colleen
(who will someday finish this 14th century Italian project....)

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:50:13 -0700
Status: RO

Oh, you are a horrible, horrible person! <g>
My credit cards are *doomed* to meltedness after poking around in those
lovely Italian wools and linens.....
doomed, I tell you, doooooooommmmmeeeeedd......
--sue

Christina L Biles wrote:
> 
> >>>Robin - where do you find 100% wool online that isn't pinstripe or plaid?
> I'm obviously not looking in the right places :-)
> 
> I'm obviously not Robin, but...
> http://www.trimfabric.com/
> 
> -Magdalena
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References: <11.45373ac.2b28f631@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 12:53:30 +1300
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    Well, we've been talking about the difference between wool and poly
    imitations, but not about the difference between, say, acetate and =
real
    silk.  What are the differences there, in terms of feel, drape, =
etc.?



  Sorry about the runaway computer.  Acetate: Weak, falls apart easily, =
especially if wet, frays, HIGHLY FLAMMABLE!, other than that, behaves =
more like natural than other synthetics ie. wrinkles, drapes, shrinks.


Not to mention acetate dissolves in acetone: ie nail polish remover. =
Unless of course you have acetone free stuff;)

michaela
reformatted computer, no must think of new and exciting signature....

------=_NextPart_000_0125_01C2A2A6.A2E40AC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
  TYPE=3D"CITE">Well, we've been talking about the difference between =
wool and=20
    poly<BR>imitations, but not about the difference between, say, =
acetate and=20
    real<BR>silk.&nbsp; What are the differences there, in terms of =
feel, drape,=20
    etc.?<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV><BR><BR>Sorry about the runaway computer.&nbsp; Acetate: Weak, =
falls=20
  apart easily, especially if wet, frays, HIGHLY FLAMMABLE!, other than =
that,=20
  behaves more like natural than other synthetics ie. wrinkles, drapes,=20
  shrinks.<BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>Not to mention acetate dissolves in acetone: ie nail polish =
remover. Unless=20
of course you have acetone free stuff;)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>michaela</DIV>
<DIV>reformatted computer, no must think of new and exciting=20
signature....</DIV></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:19:29 +1100
Status: RO

Hi Anne,

The biggest concern I have with synthetic fabric use is fire! When I reenact
there are always candles or oil lamps around, and when we cook it's on a
fire.

If natural fabric clothes get brushed by fire, it's no major deal, but the
polyester or acrylic ones are much more likely to melt and wreck the
clothing and in extreme cases can cause major damage to the skin.

I've found by trial-and-error on the clothes I made years ago when we just
couldn't get decent wools that if there's a bit of man-made fibre in a blend
(not sure how much - I think it was around 5-10%), it won't be too bad when
accidents happen, but it does cause minor damage to the clothing. I wouldn't
go for 100% man-made fabric if you're going to be around fires with it.

Glenda.

>
> Has anybody else made a period garment with
> fabric which looks right (at least to begin
> with), but is totally synthetic, and what
> happened?

> Thanks in advance,
>
> Anne =)

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: sustre@pixelations.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 projects
Cc: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:01:20 -0500
Status: RO

At 8:52 AM -0800 12/12/02, Margo Anderson wrote:
>Oh, heavens.  The projects for the next year:
>
>Professional:  Produce the Elizabehtan Comfort Package (kirtle and loose
>gown) and scale down the Lady's and Gentleman'n patterns to create the
>Elizabethan Girl and the Elizabethan Boy.  Do a second edition of the
>Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe, this time incorporating intructions for using
>the patterns to create lower class costume.  Work with Drea to create the
>16th Century Flemish Market Woman's package.  Look for additional capital
>to make all of the above possible (any potential investors out there, feel
>free to contact me!)

While you're adding the instructions to the Lady's pattern, would it 
be possible to copy them into a separate booklet or set of sheets for 
those of us who have the first edition? I know I'm far more 
interested in common than noble wear, and would love to have this 
info as a supplement. I'd expect it not to be free, btw. :)

It sounds like a very busy year!

-Amanda
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 17:12:14 -0600
Status: RO

At 08:40 PM 12/15/02 +0100, you wrote:

>If they only had made Barbie with a corseted body, i would have made some
>dresses years and years ago, but it looks so silly with these breasts.
>(sorry ladies, no offence)
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Actually, some Barbie customizers do body modifications on the dolls.
You can actually chop the chest off & remodel it using modeling compound
that can be purchased at hobby stores.
I've seen pictures of great mermaids and centaurs with this technique.

Sheryl Nance-Durst
(Who just finished customizing a Ken doll into The Crow for her nephew.)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is going on with list..??????
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:44:11 -0600
Status: RO

I have been getting very few messages this week, but thought the list was
going through a slow spell again...


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

There's no such thing as too many books!

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 6:04 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What is going on with list..??????


> I am only getting h-costume every 3 or so volumns..
>
>
> I am missing about 20 of them now???? Anyone else thisis happening to?
>
> --
> Linda Thompson
>
> Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> where Attitude is Everything
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 19:53:10 -0000
Status: RO

Catherine,

It did indeed; thank you very much! Some marvellous and indisputably
droolworthy things:-)

best wishes
Stevie

> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> I had that trouble too.  Scroll to the bottom of the page with the
> small picture and information on that picture.  There is a jpg link,
> click on it for a larger view.
>
> Hope that helps,
> Catherine
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:35:30 -0600
Status: RO

OK, I guess I'm looking in the right places at the wrong *times*. I swear
there's never been anything close to this before - always pinstripes, plaids
or crepes :-P Thank you!!!


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?


> I'm not Robin either, but I got some gorgeous lightweight wool for $% a
yard
> here -
>
> http://www.fashionfabricsonline.com/home/index.cfm
>
> Mary/Katerine
>
> >>Robin - where do you find 100% wool online that isn't pinstripe or
plaid?
> >I'm obviously not looking in the right places :-)
> >
> >**********************
> >Rebecca Schmitt
> >aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> >Bristol,
> >BRF FOF
> >
> >So many books, so little time
> >
> >lotsofteapots@charter.net
> >**********************
> >
> >
> >
> > > But if you're looking at $4.00 and up, I think you'll ultimately be
> > > happier if you hold out for at least a wool blend. For even a dollar
> >more
> > > a yard you can often get plenty of nice 100% wools online. And I've
> >found
> > > wool gabardines on the clearance section at Jo-Ann's for less than
> >you're
> > > thinking of paying for this poly.
> > >
> > > --Robin
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: High-end wools (Robin Netherton)
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 16:11:32 -0500
Status: RO

On Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:22:39 -0600 (CST), Robin Netherton 
<robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> > Oooohhhhh...... aaaaahhhhhhh..... pretty...... and within a 20-min.
> > bus or bicycle ride from Mom's place in Queens. (And to think I never
> > knew they were there...)
>
>They're probably wholesale only, and probably don't have a storefront, if
>I'm guessing right.

Sounds plausible, though most of those vendors tend to congregate in the 
Garment District, or at one time there were more of them on the Lower East 
Side...

>If you go, you might want to inquire ahead via phone
>or email, in case they don't take walk-in business.

Sounds like a good strategy; that way, I'd also know their business hours. 
Chances are, they have a showroom as well as a cutting floor... though the 
showroom may be open only to the trade. (Who knows?)

>I also don't know if they sell only "to the trade."

I guess I'll find out when I have some money...

>Not an issue for me, and probably not an issue for anyone buying
>from out-of-state, as out-of-staters don't pay sales tax on mail orders
>and thus don't need a NY state tax number.

Two separate issues here... actually, three separate issues.

(1) "To the trade" usually requires a business ID; also, billing and 
invoicing work differently -- usually wholesale is on a NET-30 basis, 
rather than a cash-and-carry basis, and is paid with business checks (or 
sometimes corporate credit cards).

(2) Some states have reciprocal sales-tax collection agreements for 
mail-order sales; there's also the matter of "points of presence" to 
consider. IIRC, New York and New Jersey have reciprocal collection 
agreements; I've had to pay NYC sales tax on most NYS-taxable items I've 
purchased mail-order or phone-order from New Jersey that were delivered to 
my NYC address.

(3) Garments to the price of $110 are tax-free in New York State. Most of 
the fabric vendors here in-state will assume that if you're buying 
garment-class fabric, you will be making garments from it, and will tax -- 
or not tax -- accordingly.

>But the wholesale restriction may prevent them from selling directly in 
>the store.

That would be the most likely... also, if they don't have a cutting floor 
per se and cut on the factory/warehouse floor; if they don't have carry-out 
packaging; if they don't have on-the-barrelhead invoice-payment facilities...

> > >Prices are $25.00 - $27.50 per yard for cut pieces (2 to 85 yards)
> >
> > ***2-yard*** and up cut pieces? <*eyes brighten; ears perk up*>
>
>Yes. Their low minimum (2 yards, which is probably called a "sample cut")
>is unusual in wholesaling.

Not if it's a "sample cut" per se... What does sound unusual is the sliding 
scale of cuts. Most of the time, I see sample cuts in specific lengths for 
a house or fabric type: 2, 2.5, 3, or 5 yards, depending on the 
manufacturer or wholesaler. The idea is that you make up a sample garment 
from the sample cut to see how the fabric drapes; based on that, you will 
order the wholesale amount for your line (manufacturer) or your store 
(retailer).

>$27.50 is a very good price for wool satin, in particular, and the color 
>range is huge.

Sounds good to me, too... especially since wool gabardine starts around 
$20-30 in this market.

>If you contact them, tell me how it works out.

It's kind of low on the priority list, but I'll try to remember.



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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Armory Stockholm
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:34:36 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,
my response to Nicole's note doesn't seem to be showing up, and I'm
desparate, so here it is again


Nicole said


> Oh my goodness, Bjarne, those photios are HUGE, wonderful, gorgeous,
> gobsmacking! *goes to download and drool*


Aaaargh. The only thing I get is a tiny little picture; how do I find
the big ones so I can drool too?

Stevie

----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Armory Stockholm


> Oh my goodness, Bjarne, those photios are HUGE, wonderful, gorgeous,
> gobsmacking! *goes to download and drool*
> Must ahve book... must have book... *zombie-like*
>
> Thanks so much for sending the link.
>
> Nicole
>
>  --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi.
> > There is an exhibition in Stockholm right now about male costumes
from 16th
> > to 18th century.
> > They have a wonderfull museum catalog about the exhibition.
> > Gosh it is so expensive to have this interrest, i just got What
Clothes
> > Reveal and Kyoto Costume book, + the catalog from Munic, heres
another one i
> > must have!!!
> > There are wonderfull pictures here:
> > http://www.lsh.se/livrustkammaren/press/Modelejon/Mode_start.htm
> >
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:35:16 -0800
Status: RO

Margo - it sounds like a lot.  can you respond to me personally at 
mabse@attbi.com so I can discuss your proposal.  maryann

At 08:52 AM 12/12/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Oh, heavens.  The projects for the next year:
>
>Professional:  Produce the Elizabehtan Comfort Package (kirtle and loose
>gown) and scale down the Lady's and Gentleman'n patterns to create the
>Elizabethan Girl and the Elizabethan Boy.  Do a second edition of the
>Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe, this time incorporating intructions for using
>the patterns to create lower class costume.  Work with Drea to create the
>16th Century Flemish Market Woman's package.  Look for additional capital
>to make all of the above possible (any potential investors out there, feel
>free to contact me!)
>
>Personal:  Make myself a kirtle and loose gown, fitted for wear without a
>corset since a medical problem which excludes my wearing one tends to flare
>up unexpectedly.  Make several different middle classish bodice and skirt
>combinations with various sleeves, foreparts, etc, and various accessories
>which will be suitable for SCA camping, and for teaching and lecturing when
>I don't want the costume to distract from what I'm saying.  Also, make an
>1870's bustle dress, prefereably in garnet taffeta, which  will make me
>look like I run the best House in town.
>
>Family:  Make Wayne a new  Elizabethan noble's suit, and a long gown to go
>over it, trimmed with mink.  Make Wayne the washed rayon swashbuckler's
>shirt I've been promising him for three years.  Make Jamie a new
>Elizabethan suit, and new tiger pajamas.  Make Robbie an Elizabethan suit,
>with lots of gold and jewels (his request). Perform surgery on a stuffed
>tiger to remove the no longer functioning tickle/giggle mechanism, which
>hurts so much when one hits one's brother with said tiger.
>
>Home:  Use the 45 yards of brocade I got at a thrift store for $20 to make
>a canopy and curtains for our bed.
>
>Costume related:  Completely re-vamp the One Tough Costumer website, adding
>illustrations.  Work up syllabus for, and teach, a workshop on "Beyond Home
>Sewing:  Costume Techniques from History, Theater, and Industry".  Go on
>the lecture/workshop  circuit with this one and the "Quenching the Wench"
>lecture.  Act as Costume Mistress and Children's Activities advisor for a
>Renaissance Faire.
>
>Yikes!
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>
>See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
>margospatterns.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 12:50:40 -0800
Status: RO

Yeah, and notice how her dress actually fits her.  No bulges, no 'my cup 
runneth over', nothing like that.

> > I *think* I've seen this before, although not
> > commonly.  The painting that's vaguely coming to
> > mind is that one where the dress is made of yellow
> > and green fabrics, sewn together in lengthwise     >
>stripes of varying widths.....
>
>That would in the painting by Lorenzo Lotto, "Portrait
>of a Lady as Lucretia" (name varies depending on which
>source you're looking at). It's circa 1533.
>
>It has 116 separate pieces...
>http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg


Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Japanese Quilt: Block 1
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 21:54:41 -0500
Status: RO

You can see the first block to Andy's Japanese Quilt at
http://www.costumegallery.com/Quilt/block1.jpg .  The outer square did not
scan because the block is larger than the scanner.  You can see some of
outer square on the outer edge of the image.  It has long strips of bamboo
and in the corners a black square.

The other quilt blocks will feature two different dragons and Japanese
children.  This is the pattern that I used for the quilt
http://womensearlyart.net/quilts/c/centerdiamond.html .  This is a great
resource for quilt patterns.

No, the quilt won't be finished by Christmas.  Andy will get the blocks that
I have finished in a package.  He knows how bad my back is and that it will
take me a while to finish the quilt.  Thank goodness he is a very
understanding son.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: "chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 16:22:20 -0600
Status: RO

I think they are talking about the accounts that are not Business accounts.
I have a business account and also have had no trouble (knock on wood), the
other accounts are a problem with pending actions against the company in
several states.

Sincerely,
Chiara
Ansteorra, Steppes
Not all ermine spots are created equally

----- Original Message -----
From: "Margo Anderson" <margo@margospatterns.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning


> I do at least 99% of my business on Paypal and have never had a problem.
>
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
>
>
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Generalls Musick & Players at M.O.L.
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 18:21:20 -0000
Status: RO

Kate wrote:

: [h-cost] Generalls Musick & Players at M.O.L.
> Thought I'd just remind any list friends in the London area that our
17th century music group, with the dancers Renaissance Footnotes, will
be at the Museum of London on the afternoons of 3rd, 4th and 5th
January 2003. Hope to see you, Stevie?


Many thanks; yes I'll be there!

best wishes
Stevie

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Norfolk jackets?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:52:36 +0100
Status: RO

Hello
I think i have seen a Burda Pattern of such a jacket.
Try to look in their large pattern album, next time you shop.
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 8:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Norfolk jackets?


> A friend of mine is looking for a Norfolk Jacket (that tweedy type of
> hunting jacket that you see in early 20th c. English period movies), but
> all of the hunting shops seem to have stopped carrying them.  Does anyone
> know of a pattern or source?
> 
> - Mara
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 02:10:44 2002
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 14:20:07 +0000
Status: RO

Reading the text more carefully (and without my Swedish dictionary to hand) I see it says the garment is a cassack.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 02:11:40 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] OT.Eliz vs problems
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:24:27 +0000
Status: RO

No  they didn't say Eliz and were adamant 'they' weren't the source of 
the problem.Whole thing sounds fishy since while there had been delays,I 
had nevertheless got my Postings from the List eventually.I was a bit 
startled at being unsubscribed tho'.
Thanks for the advice tho' I appreciate it very much.

Marcus.

On Friday, December 20, 2002, at 03:19  am, Elizabeth Lear wrote:

> On Fri, Dec 20, 2002 at 01:09:38AM +0000, marcus findlay-arthur wrote:
>> I've had a couple of months of peculiar problems - sometimes the posts
>> don't get thru' and last week I had to re-subscribe to the List to get
>> them.When I contacted my Server they said there was a back log of posts
>> amounting to 2000 dating from September.
>
> If your server was holding them, it's not anything to do with Indra.
> Did you ask them *why* they had 2000 posts stuck in there?
>
> I have asked my admin if he's seen any problems, and he hasn't.  If
> people can send me *specific* examples of messages they have posted
> which they think haven't shown up, he will check the logs and see what
> he can find.
>
> I've had some people tell me their messages haven't gone through
> because they haven't seen them.  But others have seen those 'missing'
> messages, which seems to indicate a receiving problem on some sites,
> and not a sending problem on Indra.  Please contact your admins and
> make sure they are not blocking anything from Indra, and that they are
> not making mailing list messages (ie, "bulk mail") such a low delivery
> priority that you're not getting it in your mailbox in a timely
> fashion.  One of these two are likely to be the problem for just about
> everyone who's not seeing the list email.  If your admin can guarantee
> you that neither one is the case, we can run some tests.
>
> 					..eliz
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <A2F924FDD3D70E4A96CFD73B7196A0030304C241@WDNE2K.mackie.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:34:52 -0600
Status: RO

Actually, it's www.trimfabric.com - no "s" :-)


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

There's no such thing as too many books!

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

----- Original Message -----
From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 9:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Trimfabrics site down?


> Is it just my browser or is www.trimfabrics.com down?  I keep getting the
error that the page cannot be found.
>
> Colleen
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Heather Meadows [mailto:alice@wonderland.com]
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:22 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
>
>
> I got some really lovely italian wool from www.trimfabrics.com
> for about $6/yard.  great quality.  they take about two weeks
> to arrive though, as they only ship once a week.
>
> Heather
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: "Karen Verschoor" <kverscho@wt.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] First Photos from Galveston Dickens Fest
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:42:19 -0600
Status: RO

I have posted my first set of photos from the Galveston Dickens fest.  On
the second day of the festival I became intrigued with the number and
variety of hats.  This gallery only represents a small fraction of the
wonderfully creative hats and bonnets worn at the festival.  (Guys are
included at the end!) This event is a fun, fantasy event and not meant to be
entirely historically accurate.

http://www.pbase.com/verschoorphoto/

Please feel free to leave comments about your favorite hats.  I will be
posting galleries on the costumes and contests in a few days.

Karen Verschoor
kverscho@wt.net
Houston, TX

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 15:39:18 -0000
Status: RO

Nicole said


> Oh my goodness, Bjarne, those photios are HUGE, wonderful, gorgeous,
> gobsmacking! *goes to download and drool*


Aaaargh. The only thing I get is a tiny little picture; how do I find
the big ones so I can drool too?

Stevie


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <se01ed2a.081@CSV6.derby.ac.uk> <004201c2a78b$6dd40760$d21723d9@dan>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Generalls Musick & Players at M.O.L.
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:48:34 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Stevie.
When i was at the museum with you last year, they were playing some nice
renaissance music in the renaissance bed room.
Could you (if it is not two much) ask if this is a special music cd, that i
could buy?
I still can hear that gay tunes they played. I love renaissance music.



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Generalls Musick & Players at M.O.L.


> Kate wrote:
>
> : [h-cost] Generalls Musick & Players at M.O.L.
> > Thought I'd just remind any list friends in the London area that our
> 17th century music group, with the dancers Renaissance Footnotes, will
> be at the Museum of London on the afternoons of 3rd, 4th and 5th
> January 2003. Hope to see you, Stevie?
>
>
> Many thanks; yes I'll be there!
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Janet Davis" <castle@erie.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:42:01 -0500
Status: RO

This was a Venetian style and (to my eye anyway) all the portraits I've seen
of this style look unattractive.  The bust is squished into total flatness,
the waist is the same size as the bust and the shoulders usually look like a
line-backer's.
The gowns themselves are always beautiful, with luxurious fabrics,
embroidery and trim.  Personally, if I was making one for myself, I would
take some liberties with the silhouette and not be so barrel-like in the
torso.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http://www.medievalbookstore.com


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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 10:53:22 -0600
Status: RO

What did the men wear under the doublet, skirted jerkin combo... Was it simply a pair of 
hosen, with the padded codpiece attached to them?  Or what did the codpiece attach to?  I 
am referring to the size of codpiece you see in the Henry VIII pictures.

Is Norris a reliable source for this one?

Thanks
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: [h-cost] missing digests tooo
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 10:49:48 -0600
Status: RO

1584 to 1588... where did they go?
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Source for embroidered silks
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 19:45:09 -0500
Status: RO


It should be illegal to post links to things so beautiful and so expensive!
There must be 20 fabrics I'd love to have and the cheapest $20 a yard.

Janet

(Really, thanks for posting this - I am a total sucker for embroidered
fabrics)

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http:/www.medievalbookstore.com

http://www.designerfabrics.ca

Under "Silks/Damasks and Embroidered" they have some gorgeous
machine-embroidered dupionis.  They will send up to eight swatches,
which you can keep for weeks without charge.  I just received mine.
The embroidery on most is very dense and at a scale suitable for
clothing.  It is high quality for machine embroidery.  Also, the
fabrics on the website are mostly not bridal white-on-white, unlike
the very few similar embroidered silks I've seen in local stores.
Most are colors and designs suitable for the 18th century.  Some might
work for19th-century fashions inspired by the 18th century.  Some of
the ones I did not get samples of may be smooth silks.  I think the
prices are fair given the quality of the fabrics.

Personally, I'm not going to get all agitated about exactly when it's
OK to wear dupioni.  It's so hard to find fabrics like this at all,
that I just bought what I really liked.  A good design is more visible
than slubs in the silk.  But they also have some smooth taffeta checks
and plaids.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Chopine blanks for sale!
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 15:20:49 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Cool!  I got to examine the chopines in the Bata shoe museum, and they
looked quite similar to the ones on his page.

Spending money is so much more fun when other people do it too,

Drea


On Mon, 16 Dec 2002, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> That is sooooo cool.  My friend Nola made some herself and I have been
> coveting them for awhile.  My challenge was shaping the wood!  Now I
> have no excuse-I guess I will have to add that to the 2003 list.  Thanks
> Drea!
>
> Sg
>
>
>
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:21:16 -0000
Status: RO

How much were they ? I never found the price

Mel
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Subject: [h-cost] More jewelry websites
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 20:34:15 -0800
Status: RO

Here are a few other sites I forgot to mention:

Megan McGee's
http://www.meganmcgees.com
Antique and vintage jewelry.

J'Antiques
http://www.jantiques.com/
Antique and vintage jewelry.

AZillion SPARKLZ
http://www.sparkleplenty.com/indexC.htm
This site has a large selection, most of it too modern and too
costumey for my taste.  But sometimes they list a very nice antique
piece or two.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/danceance


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Synthetic fabrics -- what's so bad?
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 08:30:17 -0000
Status: RO

>And the discoloration isn't just fading -- it turns a truly
different color.



I'm not an acetate expert, my field in cellulosics and naturals, but the
change in colour is likely to be the effect of diffent dyestuffs used fading
at different rather, eg to get a purple you would use red, yellow and blue
dyestuffs and the blue might fade at a different rate than the red (for
instance) In more complex dyestuff recipe where metamerism needed to be
combated the fastness (fade) rates are even more complex.

However a general comment from expeciance as a dyer in the Uk & US, is that
US fabric were (15 or so years ago) much less fast than UK dyes, due to
apparently lower consumer expectations. I have 20 year old acetate ball
gowns of my own with no signs of fading.

Mel

Mel
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Subject: Re: Ditto/Re: [h-cost] What is going on with list..??????
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This is a specific instance of a post I sent that never showed up:   
From: "Janet Davis" <castle@erie.net>
To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
Date: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 4:42 PM

I also sent something on 12/13 that never showed up.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http://www.medievalbookstore.com 


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Subject: [h-cost] hemp vs. linen
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I was logging in a new title (Excavations at 33-35 Eastgate, Beverley) last
night and while browsing through it, I found a short article on medieval
flax and hemp processing.  Some excerpts:

"Hemp...was also used to make coarse weaves for such items as aprons, strong
shirts or even sheets.  Hempen linen, as such weaves were known, was valued
for its durability and hard-wearing qualities...Such textiles were probably
characteristic of poorer sections of society...

"Of the two plants, hemp is by far the hardier...eighteenth century parish
maps in Norfolk and Suffolk depict 'hemplands' - small areas which filled
awkward corners of fields...heavy, well-manured soils produce a strong but
coarse fibre which is better suited to rope, sacking or canvas; whereas
poorer soils are better suited to produce finer yarns for cloth
manufacture."

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http:/www.medievalbookstore.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2nd Quilt Block: Full View
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:48:22 -0500
Status: RO

Oh Kathleen, I can't wait to see it!!!!!!  I love ribbon work. I never
learned to do it, but really appreciate the art.   Make sure to take photos
and share with us.

I love wearable art and quilts.  Both are such a wonderful art form.  The
big shows at Williamsburg in February inspire me so much.  I can spend hours
studying the construction and designs of them like people study paintings.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] underwear?
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Well, what are the properties of human hair?  It would be a protein like =
wool, filimant like silk, has resistance to pilling, takes dye well, =
doesn't shrink in the wash, cheaper than linen because you could produce =
it yourself.

Lisa
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Betsy Marshall=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 8:51 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] underwear?


  I'm thinking of Hair-shirts, sackcloth and ashes;
   all medieval implements of penance, If I recall correctly...
  not the thing for next to the skin wearing!!
  Betsy
    -----Original Message-----
    From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On =
Behalf Of M311@aol.com
    Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 10:27 PM
    To: h-costume@indra.com
    Subject: [h-cost] underwear?


    I got this from Bizarre News.  Has anyone else heard of these?  =
Would they itch?  I guess they would be steardy but I just don't think I =
want a pair.
    Kelly
    -------------------- Hair Under Where? ---------------------

    Lingerie designer Jose Monino has created a new trend in=20
    underwear fashion. After working with hair extensions and=20
    plaiting a few strands, Monino came up with the idea of=20
    weaving hair to create a new style of underwear. After an=20
    extensive process of thorough cleaning and weeks of careful=20
    weaving, Monino has created a matching bra and panty set out=20
    of human hair and is selling them for over $3,000 per set.=20
    The undergarments are highly priced due to the arduous pro-
    cess of creating each pair. One question remains: Are they=20
    to be taken to the dry cleaners or the beauty salon?



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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Well, what are the properties of human =
hair?&nbsp;=20
It would be a protein like wool, filimant like silk, has resistance to =
pilling,=20
takes dye well, doesn't shrink in the wash, cheaper than linen because =
you could=20
produce it yourself.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lisa</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dbetsy@softwareinnovation.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:betsy@softwareinnovation.com">Betsy Marshall</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, December 11, =
2002 8:51=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: [h-cost] =
underwear?</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D765084904-12122002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>I'm=20
  thinking of Hair-shirts, sackcloth and ashes;</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D765084904-12122002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>&nbsp;all medieval implements of penance, If I recall=20
  correctly...</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D765084904-12122002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>not=20
  the thing for next to the skin wearing!!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D765084904-12122002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Betsy</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE>
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
    size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> <A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com">h-costume-admin@indra.com</A>=20
    [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]<B>On Behalf Of </B><A=20
    href=3D"mailto:M311@aol.com">M311@aol.com</A><BR><B>Sent:</B> =
Wednesday,=20
    December 11, 2002 10:27 PM<BR><B>To:</B> <A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A><BR><B>Subject=
:</B>=20
    [h-cost] underwear?<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT =
face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT=20
    lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I got this from =
Bizarre=20
    News.&nbsp; Has anyone else heard of these?&nbsp; Would they =
itch?&nbsp; I=20
    guess they would be steardy but I just don't think I want a=20
    pair.<BR>Kelly<BR>-------------------- Hair Under Where?=20
    ---------------------<BR><BR>Lingerie designer Jose Monino has =
created a new=20
    trend in <BR>underwear fashion. After working with hair extensions =
and=20
    <BR>plaiting a few strands, Monino came up with the idea of =
<BR>weaving hair=20
    to create a new style of underwear. After an <BR>extensive process =
of=20
    thorough cleaning and weeks of careful <BR>weaving, Monino has =
created a=20
    matching bra and panty set out <BR>of human hair and is selling them =
for=20
    over $3,000 per set. <BR>The undergarments are highly priced due to =
the=20
    arduous pro-<BR>cess of creating each pair. One question remains: =
Are they=20
    <BR>to be taken to the dry cleaners or the beauty=20
salon?<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 22:01:53 -0800
Status: RO


>
>While you're adding the instructions to the Lady's pattern, would it 
>be possible to copy them into a separate booklet or set of sheets for 
>those of us who have the first edition? 

Actually, I'll probably put them on the website, free of charge.  The
changes aren't that significant.  If you make up the low necked smock and
the partlet with a plain fabric ruffle, make the bodice front lacing with
plain wings and no skirting, make contrast sleeves with the narrow curved
sleeve pattern, and use the Farthingale pattern peices to make a skirt,
you're there.  Accessorize with the coif and a flat cap, and  add a
rectangular apron, and you'll look like one of the women in the lower right
hand corner of the Wedding At Bermondsey painting.  

I'll be writing it all up for a workshop I'm teaching in January, so I'll
probably web it shortly after that.  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 02:29:34 2002
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From: "Lyn Greaves- home" <rosamund@frontiernet.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning- frozen accts
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:33:11 -0500
Status: RO

Speaking as someone who has had a frozen account-

When they froze my account, it was in full accordance with the agreement I
accepted when I opened the account.  It was completely NOT their fault
(although that didn't make me dislike it any less at Christmas time last
year).  My bank (boy, am I glad they were SOLD) changed a policy and
neglected to notify me of it. . . needless to say, THEY fixed the PayPal
account (after much discussion to find out exactly WHO was responsible on
their end).

PayPal simply froze an account that had been refused payment by the owner's
bank-- looks like good business practice to me.


Lyn Greaves


----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 2:29 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning


> FYI, FWIW, Paypal has been under investigation by several different
> states, (Louisiana is one I definitely remember), for conducting
> business as if they are a bank, which in fact they are not. There are
> reports of other shady dealings, such as Paypal freezing accounts so
> that the account holder can't even get their own money out. This has
> been going on for months, as yet I haven't heard the outcome of the
> case(s), has anyone else? Knowing this was enough for me to not sign up
> for Paypal, even though it is very convenient, especially for eBay and
> ordering things from overseas. I'm with you, Angela, there is nothing
> wrong with a little healthy paranoia.
>
> Linda
>
> -----Original Message-----
>  Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
>
> If you have allowed paypal access to your checking account, this may be
> a
> problem, although I doubt it happens much. E-trade is generally pretty
> safe.
> I did however, refuse that sort of access when I signed up with paypal,
> primarily because at the time there was no number to call if something
> went
> wrong.  With a total lack of customer service, I have not permitted
> access
> to any of my checking accounts.  That sort of access is not something
> I'd
> probably ever give permission for anyway, as credit cards are a better
> means
> of paying strangers, and there is almost always recourse if it's on a
> credit
> card.
>
> I don't know if they still allow it, it's called an "unverified"
> account,
> (as though I'm a bad bad person!) ;)  they obviously prefer full access
> to
> your checking account, but that ain't gonna happen in my lifetime.
>
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> Theatrical Costume Design
>
> "Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
> As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@radix.net>
> To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:51 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
>
>
> > Folks, I know a lot of us use Ebay and Paypal (to buy fabric and
> costumes
> > and other accessories -- how's that for marginal topical content?).
> >
> > Please remember to change your password frequently, and keep an eye on
> the
> > account.  My hubby just sent me this from Forbes:
> > http://www.forbes.com/home/2002/08/21/0821hatesites_3.html
> > Someone on rec.woodworking had their bank account wiped out because
> > someone hacked their Paypal account, transferred money from the bank
> > account to Paypal and then within Paypal to another Paypal account,
> which
> > was then withdrawn and closed.  (Of course, people get their regular
> bank
> > or credit card accounts hacked all the time, but it seems one has
> fewer
> > remedies when dealing with Paypal than when dealing with one's credit
> card
> > company.)
> >
> > I just changed my password, and am considering closing the account
> after a
> > few payments I've made recently are cleared.
> >
> > -- Mara
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 06:06:22 -0800
Status: RO



kate wrote:

> *snip*
>
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg
>
> Greetings Claire.
>
> In my opinion, the extra poufiness around her elbow is
> there due to bending her arm. As far as I'm aware,
> there's no extra pouf on the lower sleeve.
>

But if you look at the other arm that is straight, the one holding the
pic,
there is a second, smaller puff below the large one. I'm wondering if
perhaps it is caused by the lower sleeve being too long and pushed up on

the arm. When the elbow bends it straightens out. I think a furlined
dress
has anough friction for this to work. I wonder if it would work on
something
else if the lower sleeve was sufficiently tight.

>
> I've heard several opinions regarding her hat. The one
> that I think fits the best is that it's lambs wool.
> Sure looks like it to me...but then again, I've never
> been around a sheep while it's being sheared so I
> don't know if you can get the lovely little curls of
> wool or not.
>

Well that's what I assumed. The wool on very small lambs is that tightly
curled,
but you'd need an awful lot of them for that hat I think, or perhaps it
is
specially treated. Renaissance perm anyone? :-P

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Subject: [h-cost] another 14th c block print
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 19:31:33 -0800
Status: RO

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I just came across another 14th century block print that I had not seen =
before in the book, The illustrated History of Textiles.  It is also =
from Germany and is a Mullion pattern.  A note to the fragment comments =
that printed linen was often used as room decoration.  I have scanned =
the photo and added it the my web page.  I'll be removing these next =
weekend, so have a look now if you are interested.

I am not researching this time period but if anyone else is and finds =
more detailed info on these fragments or similar, please share.

Thanks,


Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com

------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C2A2DE.3E7FD680
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I just came across another 14th century =
block print=20
that I had not seen before in the book, The illustrated History of=20
Textiles.&nbsp; It is also from Germany and is a Mullion pattern.&nbsp; =
A note=20
to the fragment comments that printed linen was often used as room=20
decoration.&nbsp; I have scanned the photo and added it the my web =
page.&nbsp;=20
I'll be removing these next weekend, so have a look now if you are=20
interested.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am not researching this time period =
but if anyone=20
else is and finds more detailed info on these fragments or similar, =
please=20
share.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lisa Sinervo<BR>Threadneedle St. =
Clothiers<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.ThreadneedleSt.com">www.ThreadneedleSt.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C2A2DE.3E7FD680--


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From: "Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 17:23:18 -0500
Status: RO

It looks like it has a slit in the front of the skirt...

Apollonia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of kate
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 12:17 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress


That would in the painting by Lorenzo Lotto, "Portrait
of a Lady as Lucretia" (name varies depending on which
source you're looking at). It's circa 1533.

It has 116 separate pieces...
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg

kate

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From: "Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 19:57:04 -0500
Status: RO

I think the lady in White is wearing a blackworked camicia, over which is a
partlet.  The dress is laced extremely tight.  Either she has not developed
breasts yet, and they are just really tiny.  If you look along her
shoulders, you can see ties for the partlet...  It also looks like she might
be wearing a bumroll with this.  Her collar is just a small ruff, probably
attached to the partlet.  Also, it looks to me like there is a pleat near
the top of her skirt...

My two florins,

Apollonia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 15:23:15 -0500
Status: RO

They truly are gorgeous. I'd love to make that Eliz one.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 12:01 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Big scans of Barbie historical costumes photos


> --- Talia <khanson@kc.rr.com> wrote: > These are beautiful! Are they for
sale?
> They'd make fabulous holiday gifts.
>
> No, sorry I forgot to say that they are from the Burda pattern mag for
Barbie
> costumes, that is out of print, but I thought the list would enjoy the
> costumes.
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 02:34:44 2002
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From: "Kim Baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Norfolk jackets?
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 13:56:57 -0600
Status: RO

Try this web site:
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/Victorian_Repx.html
I know they have it in a boy's size, I'm not sure about adult.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin & Mara Riley
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 1:49 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Norfolk jackets?

A friend of mine is looking for a Norfolk Jacket (that tweedy type of
hunting jacket that you see in early 20th c. English period movies), but
all of the hunting shops seem to have stopped carrying them.  Does
anyone
know of a pattern or source?

- Mara



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Subject: [h-cost] Leather
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:03:58 -0500
Status: RO

My daughter has decided to wear my leather skirt to the winter dance. 
But it has been in the drawer for a while and had fold creases. Any 
ideas on how to get those out?

With it she is wearing a white corset style shirt and a jacket 
reminiscent of Victorian, Very nice. Maybe I should give her my 
Victorian style boots as well.

Linda K-S
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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manhattan/NJ fabric & bead stores?
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 09:55:55 -0500
Status: RO

The best in New Jersey, on the cheap side, is Fabric Warehouse. There 
are three locations, all in rather dismal areas but they can have 
some good stuff. It's a mill ends store.

Then there's the one in PA that I haven't gone to, also cheap stuff. 
Any one remember the name?

In NYC: The absolutely best group of stores in the US  all in one 
area. This is where all the Broadway and top designers shop. As well 
as the lesser known designers, students and any one in the know. 
There are tons of stores. in fact you can see a list at:

http://www.fashioncenter.com/

They abandoned their yearly book for this very comprehensive web site.

My favs are:

Moods - not the best for deals but the best for variety. Look for the 
$60 yard cashmere and other exotic wools in striking colors. Check 
the address as they not only just moved but there is no sign outside 
and you have to take the elevator. I have seen a Broadway designer 
with a beautiful (forgive my ignorance on names) Louis XIV style 
dress illustration with all the flounces and tall hat looking for and 
finding the right silks for that dress.

NY Elegance-Also good selection and better over all prices. A 
beautiful set of wedding laces and silks with beads on them. Did the 
last wedding dress from this store.  Linens and lots of suit type 
wools. A variety of cotton Viole as well.

On the same street is Parons - Two stores. their first run and higher 
prices and their sale store where you can get the same fabric the 
likes of Liz Claborne and other really hot designers used for half 
price. Wonderful wools, silks, mixed all 50% off. But you have to buy 
now as what the have will go out of stock.

M & J Trims-Some of the best trim prices and variety.

And there are stores with only buttons. Stores with all the 
accessories for you machines you can imagine. Some stores will cut 
zippers to size.

Also look for the stores that are going out of business. You might 
find some really good deals there as well.

I know I marked more modern styles in fabrics but they also have tons 
of fabrics that recreators would like. There are fabrics I have never 
seen anywhere else. The funny thing is what you don't find there, 
ordinary broadcloth, quilting fabrics or any of the really ordinary 
fabrics that plague the likes of strip mall fabric stores.

Check out the web site, you'll see.

Linda K-S

At 12:20 AM -0500 12/20/02, Herself-the-Elf wrote:
>Hi all, I'm heading down to the US for the holidays and am wondering if
>anybody has any favourite fabric and/or bead stores in Manhattan or
>Northeastern Jersey that they could recommend.  Might as well see if I can
>pick up some neat stuff while I'm there...^_^
>
>-- Maral
>
>the den of sarcasm
>http://sarcasm.fanfic.org
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 20:55:39 +1300
Status: RO



> I have been getting very few messages this week, but thought the list was
> going through a slow spell again...

And I've just been getting messages sent last week! Gremlins in the
system;)?

michaela
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 21:06:35 +1300
Status: RO


> > http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/l/lotto/1527-30/07lucret.jpg
> > > How about on the arm that's outstretched? There is a more prominant
> > > poof happening there. I
> Perhaps this is the artist's means of showing foreshortening -- that is,
> the arm is bent, but bent away from us, so her arm is not outstretched but
> curved toward us so we can't see the angle of the elbow.

Not with the angle of her hand:) If anything it looks like she's
hyperextending her elbow... But that was one thought I did have, until I
tried

I think Clair Clark might have the idea:
"I'm wondering if perhaps it is caused by the lower sleeve being too long
and pushed up on the arm."

Though there was a book on late 15thC Italian clothing that mentioned how
many errors can be found in paintings, this might be one of those
incidents.. he might have pieced together studies and not actually had a
live model in this dress. And maybe not all the studies worked together for
an anatomically possible stance;)

michaela
http://recital.tripod.com/costume



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> > I have been getting very few messages this week, but thought the list was
> > going through a slow spell again...
>
> And I've just been getting messages sent last week! Gremlins in the
> system;)?

	Something strange going on with mine too.  In the past few hours
I've gotten over 100 posts ranging in date from 12/11 to 12/21.  Some of
them are duplicates of messages I've gotten before, some of them are new,
and they aren't in chronological order.  Well, at least I haven't been
unsubscribed :).

annora

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:06:49 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Talia <khanson@kc.rr.com> wrote: > Aqua Regia, a
combination of nitric and hydrochloric
> acid. Really nasty
> stuff. I don't recommend it for home use.

And very difficult to store, I believe. Tends to
dissolve bottles.

Trouble is, most acids strong enough to dissolve
metals other than gold are also unlikely to be found
around a "normal" home (unless we're about to find
another difference between the USA and the UK?)



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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:28:58 -0000
Status: RO

On 19 Dec 2002 at 2:29, Linda Rice wrote:

> .., as yet I haven't heard the outcome of the
> case(s), has anyone else?

Thers'a an internet library of law and court decisions at:

http://www.phillipsnizer.com/internetlibrary.htm

Going there and feeding "PayPal" into their search gives some interesting results: far 
too long to post here, though.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 05:40:23 2002
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:41:18 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Looks like a definite problem here.

I sent the reply summarised below on the 12th. Never
saw it on the list. On the 19th I changed email
addreses: unsubscribed the old one, subscribed with
the new one.

This reply came in today, along with a load of other
old stuff, to the *old* address. Meanwhile "current"
postings are coming in to the new address, though in
batches: posts from Thursday and Friday have all
arived on Saturday morning.

And the reply I just sent out to the list has come
straight back with no delay at all. 

All very strange!


 --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote: 
> Christina L Biles <bilescl@okstate.edu> wrote :

> > There is a style of German Renn codpieces...
> How very.... subtle?


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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:26:28 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks for the link....I've always loved this dress.  But then, I like
green dresses.  ISTR there's one portrait of Elizabeth I in a green
dress in QEUnlocked.....
--sue

kate wrote:
> 
> It also put me in mind of this gown:
> http://cgi.www.sandiegomuseum.org/cgi-bin/www.sandiegomuseum.org/image.pl?mode=&painting=123952&axis=1040233065
> 
> It's quite lovely. It's on my list of "things to do
> when I have more time..."
> 
> And if you go into the gift shop and ask for an image
> of this painting, she's NOT listed as by "unknown,"
> she's listed as having been painted by Bronzino.
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:30:19 -0700
Status: RO

Naw....bad color duplication in the first reproduction I saw of the
painting....and now I seem to be "stuck" with thinking of it as
green-and-yellow. Even though it's clear from the link that it's,
indeed, more green-and-pumpkin.
I kinda like the colors, but they are *NOT* a combination I could wear!

--sue

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> > Why do you think it's furred? I've never gotten that impression from
> > it (although my good copy of it's at work, so I can't double-check
> > until tomorrow, darn it). Or are you referring to another portrait,
> > other than the one I'd asked about....especially since you're
> > referring to pumpkin and olive colors? (oh, do you mean the stripedy
> > one? I think of it more as yellow and green....)
> 
> In the on-line version even it is clear in the sleeve slashes and in
> the little area down the center front of the skirt that it has a
> mottled grey fur.
> 
> One person's yellow (or orange) and green is another's "pumpkin and
> olive."  I'm certain that they would have called it something
> entirely different in Italy. ;)
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:45:20 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

MaggiRos wrote:

> Thought perhaps in honor of the season some of the late period gang
at least
> would like to see the new page I've added to the Renaissance site.
>
> Keeping an Elizabethan Christmas is at
> <http://ren.dm.net/compendium/63.html>

Lovely, indeed, but you might like to read, and cite, Ronald Hutton's
'Rise and Fall of Merry England', which has a great deal more
information on this.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:42:58 -0700
Status: RO

I didn't get the post you're answering, Bella (or it was buried
somewhere, and I just didn't see it), so I'm more answering what you
answered, rather than answering you <g>, if that makes sense...
I think the Lotto dress has some very unusual qualities (the stripes
being the most notable), but there are lots of examples of dresses in
other areas of Europe in the same (or close to the same) time period
with fur linings.  Or slashed sleeves.  Or front lacing.
And as for the flounce, there's at least one other example, and that's
the dress I was first asking about....<g>
Maybe Lotto was combining stylistic elements from a regional style, or
at least relatively unknown (the flounce, the stripes, the headdress),
with other bits to make it look "old" or "different," to contribute to
the allegorical theme? The slashed sleeves might refer back to an
earlier style, for instance.  The fur lining might be something seen in
Northern Italian clothing, or in foreign clothing....
Ah, well....historical costuming can be so interesting and so
frustrating all at the same time!
--sue

Bella wrote:
> 
> > Your guess is as good as mine. This gown is
> > relatively
> > unique--it has a bunch of uncommon things going
> > on...the stripes, the slashes just around the elbow
> > area, the front lacing, as well as the flounce.
> 
> This is perhaps because this is an allegorical
> painting, and so the artist has used his artistic
> license to create something that's unusual, whilst
> still retaining enough of the contemporary look to
> have his viewers identify with the heroic Lucrezia.
>
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:53:32 -0700
Status: RO

I've been getting my own posts to stuff okay, and occasional things from
the list in general...enough to make me think the list has just been
slow, and also make me wonder what y'all were talking about on this
thread.
And then, this morning, I checked my email, got a
normal-for-Saturday-a.m. 20 messages or so, but when I subsequently
checked for messages, I got a burst of 30 some, all several days late,
and then another (big) chunk of 60+, also late.
They don't seem to be related in topic, but are pretty random, which
makes keeping track of a thread very frustrating.
I don't have this problem with all of my lists, just this one, and since
there are a number of us with this problem, I'd suspect it's not *our*
servers, but maybe the list server, or some sort of regional servers?
I just got *this* message, for instance.
*Very* annoying!
--sue

lotsofteapots@charter.net wrote:
> 
> I have been getting very few messages this week, but thought the list was
> going through a slow spell again...
> 
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> Bristol,
> BRF FOF
> 
> There's no such thing as too many books!
> 
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
> To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 6:04 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] What is going on with list..??????
> 
> > I am only getting h-costume every 3 or so volumns..
> >
> >
> > I am missing about 20 of them now???? Anyone else thisis happening to?
> >
> > --
> > Linda Thompson
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 08:55:22 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] List problems?
Message-ID: <20021221135635.GH8755@net.indra.com>
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 06:56:35 -0700
Status: RO

Someone who unsubbed from the list also reported getting new/old
messages - I think we may have found the problem!  It's looking like
there was a plug-up somewhere keeping some mail from being delivered.
Could you send me some of the new/old messages with the complete mail
headers, please?

Thanks,
							...eliz




On Sat, Dec 21, 2002 at 10:41:18AM +0000, Jane Williams wrote:
> Looks like a definite problem here.
> 
> I sent the reply summarised below on the 12th. Never
> saw it on the list. On the 19th I changed email
> addreses: unsubscribed the old one, subscribed with
> the new one.
> 
> This reply came in today, along with a load of other
> old stuff, to the *old* address. Meanwhile "current"
> postings are coming in to the new address, though in
> batches: posts from Thursday and Friday have all
> arived on Saturday morning.
> 
> And the reply I just sent out to the list has come
> straight back with no delay at all. 
> 
> All very strange!
> 
> 
>  --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote: 
> > Christina L Biles <bilescl@okstate.edu> wrote :
> 
> > > There is a style of German Renn codpieces...
> > How very.... subtle?
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 09:18:23 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Spiral lacing and skirts was [h-cost] where is everyone?
References: <20021216164244.11660.qmail@web12002.mail.yahoo.com>
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 07:20:04 -0700
Status: RO

Hi.  I'm having the same sporadic-mail problems everyone else is, so I
just saw this....
I don't know the portrait you're referring to, but there are a couple of
other (16th c)gowns I can think of, right off the bat, that have
spiral-laced bodices and skirt openings.
In Arnold's book on clothing from 1560-1620, she's got a small pic. of a
girl with a spiral-laced bodice (you're looking at the back)--you can't
really see any skirt slits, but the lacing pattern and slightly poofy
pleating of the skirt at the waist (cartridge pleats, I'd guess) are
quite visible.  According to the notes, the girl is Isabella, she's 3
years old, and the painting is "The Colonna Family," by Scipione
Pulzone, dated 1581.
And she's got, as well, *the* Eleanor of Toledo burial gown--the over
gown has got two lines of spiral lacing to either side of the side-back,
with an attached skirt.....
Now, the extant garment doesn't actually have the skirt still attached
to the bodice, but the skirt still shows evidence of the pleating (flat
pleats, no less!, instead of cartridge pleating), and the side-back
openings (they look like they're about 8 or 9 inches long).  The skirt
itself was made in 4 pieces--two for the front, and two for the back. 
The openings occur along the seamlines between the front pieces and the
back pieces.
The edges of the skirt's back openings are finished with a strip of bias
silk--not like a binding, but flat, like a facing.
I'd imagine that the openings would be hidden in the fullness generated
by the pleats.
--sue


Cascio Michael wrote:
> 
>     Drooling over art books while Christmas shopping
> and saw a copy of The Lute Player by Orazio
> Gentileschi.  Sorry I haven't searched for a link yet
> but as this is a good angle on the spiral lacing on
> the side back I was wondering if the slit in the skirt
> to allow the garment to fit over the hips continued on
> below the lacing or if they did some sort of dogleg
> opening like we do for the 1860s.  And if it just
> continues on into the skirt how did they keep the
> skirt from gaping when they moved or leaned like the
> lady in the portrait?  Perhaps one of you has a better
> copy of the painting and has some insight.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 10:13:30 2002
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 15:16:31 -0000
Status: RO

Chiara wrote:


> I think they are talking about the accounts that are not Business
accounts.
> I have a business account and also have had no trouble (knock on
wood), the
> other accounts are a problem with pending actions against the
company in
> several states.

Well, I didn't know about the problems other people have noted, but I
stopped using Paypal myself a few weeks ago. I gave up in despair at
endless delays and no replies to my emails. I'd thought this was
because of Ebay taking it over, but it now appears that it was a
longstanding proble. I've mentioned it to a couple of people that I've
bought a lot of things from, and the answer was that they weren't
having problems with their business accounts, but other buyers had the
same problems I had. This spells disaster for a lot of Ebay sellers,
since in the long term people won't pay money order fees for small
purchases.

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 11:08:29 2002
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 08:09:20 -0800
Status: RO

I finally realized why i couldn't find the original message about the 
chopine blanks. And no wonder i have been so confused reading the 
list for the past 9 days - i had only gotten about half the Digests 
that had been sent since December 12th.

I wasn't paying attention to the headers in the list, but it turns 
out that as of last night around 8 PM i had not received over one 
dozen of them, what appears to be a somewhat rather random selection.

This dump, as it were, of Digests that i just got is comprised of 
Digest #1582, 1584, 1585, 1586, 1587, 1588, 1590, 1593, 1594, 1596, 
1598, 1600 (to the best of my knowledge, the most current Digest).

(in other words, as of yesterday, Friday Dec 20, at 8 PM (PST), i had 
received 1582, 1583, 1589, 1591, 1592, 1595, 1597, and 1599)

The headers indicate that my ISP, earthlink, did not receive them 
until rather last night.

To be more specific, here's the info on the oldest of these late comers:
Digest 1582, dated Thursday 12 Dec 2002 12:00:08

It was Received from net.indra.com by net.indra.com on Thursday 12 
Dec 2002 at 12:01:57 (MST)
It was Received from net.indra.com by www1.indra.com on Thursday 12 
Dec 2002 12:02:03 (MST)
So far, so good...

BUT
It was Received from www1.indra.com by earthlink on Friday 20 Dec 
2002 at 22:09:08 (PST)

I don't know how long this problem has persisted, because i've only 
been sporadically reading the list for the past year or so and not 
posting for about 2 years. So, if i was having this problem between 
December 2000 and now, i didn't notice.

Digest 1600, apparently the most current:
Received from net.indra.com by www1.indra.com Sat, 21 Dec 2002 03:08:08 (MST)
and
Received from www1.indra.com by earthlink Sat, 21 Dec 2002 02:08:22 (PST)

In other words, it only took 14 seconds

This is unlike the 8 days, 11 hours, 7 minutes, and 5 seconds it took 
for 1582 to be sent from www1.indra.com to earthlink.

So, dear list owner (is that Eliz?), it appears there's something 
wrong at www1.indra.com.

Anahita
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:12:14 -0700
Status: RO


Okay, I'm asking my sysadmin what was up, since all of the headers
I've checked on the 'lost lamb' messages indicate the messages were
indeed hung on one of Indra's machines.  Thanks to everyone for their
patience and assistance while this was cleared up.

And if you're STILL not seeing your own posts, it might be the whole
to you from yourself things still, so let me know if that continues to
be a problem.

                                                ...eliz
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 11:21:25 2002
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs etc
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 08:29:01 -0800
Status: RO

Yes, I can see that it is much more likely that is is a plural use of
biggin.  A couple of other posters were commenting about the use of the word
prior to the 17th century.

"As far as the terms are concerned biggin wasn't used during Elizabeth's
reign is comes in sometime
during the 17th century"

and   "The earliest reference to bigon (yet another spelling) I have in my
research
> is 1608"

as Elizabeth was born in 1533 this quote nudges the appearance of the word
closer to the previously mentioned OED reference.

Lisa

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs etc


> LSinervo@aol.com wrote:
> >beseeching you to be [a] good lord to my lady...that she may
> >have some raiment for she hath neither gown, not kirtle nor
> >sleeves, nor railes, nor body stitchets, nor handkerchiefs, nor
> >mufflers nor biggins. All this her grace must have. I have
> >driven off as long as I can, that be my troth I can drive it no
> >longer. Beseeching you my lord that ye will see that her grace
> >may have that [which] is needful for her.
>
> Yes, and you'll note that everything onward from "sleeves" is plural. Thus
"biggins" is plural, "biggin" singular.
>
> >What is the OED by the way???
>
> Oxford English Dictionary. Gives citations for how the word is used, with
dates.
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> ____________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Codpiece/Norris Re: [h-cost] Tudor mens question
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:18:20 +0000
Status: RO

Linda I missed part of this thread,so forgive me if I've jumped in here 
but circa 1540 the codpiece is laced,sometimes stitched underneath - 
between the legs with ties on the sides and at the top of the codpiece 
to  position it-to the 'pants' (waist to mid thigh short pants worn 
under the skirts of the 'jerkin'.)The hose are worn under the pants and 
laced/tied to the pants.You also shape the hose when cutting to the leg 
and foot.(Be warned a codpiece feels unusual and your man is going to 
have to get used to wearing it - the bits and bobs are placed into the 
codpiece rather like a cricket cup,drawing the shirt thru' the legs from 
the back helps a good bit.Knickers were worn although a bit later from 
what I've pieced together.)

I don't find Norris terribly reliable since he becomes 'creative' and 
I've based a costume on his work in conjunction with a painting with a 
good bit of tinkering on my part as I loathed the actual pants part when 
I found out the original combination.

Marcus.


On Tuesday, December 17, 2002, at 04:53  pm, Linda J. Thompson wrote:

> What did the men wear under the doublet, skirted jerkin combo... Was it 
> simply a pair of hosen, with the padded codpiece attached to them?  Or 
> what did the codpiece attach to?  I am referring to the size of 
> codpiece you see in the Henry VIII pictures.
>
> Is Norris a reliable source for this one?
>
> Thanks
> -- Linda Thompson
>
> Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> where Attitude is Everything
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Codpiece/Norris Re: [h-cost] Tudor mens question
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:18:41 +0000
Status: RO

Linda I missed part of this thread,so forgive me if I've jumped in here 
but circa 1540 the codpiece is laced,sometimes stitched underneath - 
between the legs with ties on the sides and at the top of the codpiece 
to  position it-to the 'pants' (waist to mid thigh short pants worn 
under the skirts of the 'jerkin'.)The hose are worn under the pants and 
laced/tied to the pants.You also shape the hose when cutting to the leg 
and foot.(Be warned a codpiece feels unusual and your man is going to 
have to get used to wearing it - the bits and bobs are placed into the 
codpiece rather like a cricket cup,drawing the shirt thru' the legs from 
the back helps a good bit.Knickers were worn although a bit later from 
what I've pieced together.)

I don't find Norris terribly reliable since he becomes 'creative' and 
I've based a costume on his work in conjunction with a painting with a 
good bit of tinkering on my part as I loathed the actual pants part when 
I found out the original combination.

Marcus.


On Tuesday, December 17, 2002, at 04:53  pm, Linda J. Thompson wrote:

> What did the men wear under the doublet, skirted jerkin combo... Was it 
> simply a pair of hosen, with the padded codpiece attached to them?  Or 
> what did the codpiece attach to?  I am referring to the size of 
> codpiece you see in the Henry VIII pictures.
>
> Is Norris a reliable source for this one?
>
> Thanks
> -- Linda Thompson
>
> Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> where Attitude is Everything
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:31:29 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks, Elizabeth.
I've seen this happen occasionally on other lists.  Stuff getting
submitted on the weekends, but not coming through until the work week,
etc.  At that point, I think it had something to do with the way the
email was being routed--regional servers or something? Apparently,
traffic can get backed up, and it clears itself in clumps.
--sue

Elizabeth Lear wrote:
> 
> Okay, I'm asking my sysadmin what was up, since all of the headers
> I've checked on the 'lost lamb' messages indicate the messages were
> indeed hung on one of Indra's machines.  Thanks to everyone for their
> patience and assistance while this was cleared up.
> 
> And if you're STILL not seeing your own posts, it might be the whole
> to you from yourself things still, so let me know if that continues to
> be a problem.
> 
>                                                 ...eliz
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] List problems?
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:44:38 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 21 Dec 2002, Elizabeth Lear wrote:

> Someone who unsubbed from the list also reported getting new/old
> messages - I think we may have found the problem!  It's looking like
> there was a plug-up somewhere keeping some mail from being delivered.
> Could you send me some of the new/old messages with the complete mail
> headers, please?

I just checked my mail this morning to find 85 new h-cost messages dating
as far back as 12/11, and that doesn't count today's mail.

Elizabeth, I have them all saved with complete headers in case you need
them. Let me know whether you still need samples.

--Robin


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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:35:40 -0700
Status: RO

Are the actors gonna flash the audience, while wearing their
terribly-authentic kilts? Is the female lead going to wear pink velour?
Okay, so I adored the movie as a movie (I even have it on tape), but the
authenticity level is *shuddersome,* both in historical and clothing
terms.
--sue

Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I thought you might be amused to hear of a production of Macbeth where
> the director insists on authentic Scottish dress.
> As shown in 'Braveheart'
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Death and the Two Towers
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:06:26 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Death nearly came to the technician running the Two Towers at the
Barbican Cinema yesterday; we lost sound 10 minutes or so from the
end.  And when he got it back he decided not to bother rerunning the
dialogue, apparently on the grounds that it might hold up the next
screening...
After storming the manager's office, at the head of a trusty band of
comrades I'd never met before, I allowed myself to be placated by free
tickets for all. But it was a damned close-run thing...

Incidently, don't, whatever you do, look at the website selling the
official LOTR copy costumes. Being turned to stone would be a
preferable fate.

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: digest list oddities
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:27:41 -0500
Status: RO

I hadn't even noticed that there was a problem, since some were still 
coming through... until a few minutes ago I suddenly received a *bunch* 
of digests from various dates.

Odd
-Elisabeth

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Subject: [h-cost] Painting by Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1425-30
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:33:05 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I've been looking at 

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/

http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/vosp177.jpg

and am puzzled by the fabric described as  

'purple (velvet?) houppelande, lined with green over a red undergown'

It looks like fur rather than fabric. Any views, anyone?

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:05:18 -0500
Status: RO

Interesting.  Today, I'm receiving--again--messages I got as long ago as the 
11th.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 12:45:29 -0500
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        I just figured everyone was busy with the holidays until I was
hit with 122 new messages this morning.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:01:41 -0500
Status: RO

Love the site.  Some new information and some I already knew, but very
interesting and well written.

Lalah
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Subject: Nice/Re: [h-cost] Noel Noel!
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 18:41:40 +0000
Status: RO

Very nice.

Marcus.


On Friday, December 13, 2002, at 04:55  am, Maggie Secara wrote:

>
> Hi everyone --
>
> Thought perhaps in honor of the season some of the late period gang at 
> least would like to see the new page I've added to the Renaissance site.
>
> Keeping an Elizabethan Christmas is at 
> <http://ren.dm.net/compendium/63.html>
>
> Let me know what you think!
>
>
> MaggiRos
> ~The Elizabethan World is http://ren.dm.net
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*  
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:16:02 -0500
Status: RO

        Fantastic.  Just curious, Penny do you ever take time to sleep? 
You are such a busy, talented lady.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 14:21:26 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Painting by Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1425-30
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 11:22:55 -0800
Status: RO

Stevie Gamble wrote:
>I've been looking at
>
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/
>
>http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/vosp177.jpg
>
>and am puzzled by the fabric described as 'purple (velvet?) houppelande,
>lined with green over a red undergown'
>
>It looks like fur rather than fabric. Any views, anyone?

Different monitors and different operating systems display colors 
differently, so i can only say what i see.

On my monitor, the outer houpelande appears to have an outer layer of 
dark purple and an inner layer of green. Both appear to be fabric.

However, the edging on the sleeves and the "yoke" in the front appear 
to be of grey fur. There's a band that matches the sleeve edging on 
the skirt hem in the lower right corner, and it doesn't look very 
furry there.

The inner sleeves appear more gold to me than green - i assume there 
are other colors besides the gold, but what they are isn't clear. The 
underskirt is a rich orange.

It's sure cold in my house, and i would love to have a large warm 
woolen dress lined with real fur :-)

Anahita
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 14:52:28 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Painting by Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1425-30
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 12:53:42 -0700
Status: RO

Stevie:
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/vosp177.jpg
> It looks like fur rather than fabric. Any views, anyone?

It looks *exactly* like a purple cotton velvet that I have in my garb
closet.

						...eliz
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 15:23:32 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Painting by Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1425-30
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:25:13 -0700
Status: RO

Uh, at least in this link, I think it looks like fabric.  I didn't see
any of the fuzzy edges or brushstrokes I normally associate with someone
painting fur....Plus, the folds of fabric are pretty "sharp,"...gack,
wrong adjective but the best I can do for the moment.
If this were fur, it'd be pretty thin...there doesn't seem to be all
*that* much bulk to the skirt, and the folds aren't as rounded as I'd
expect them to be if the lining had significant nap.
I s'pose it could be closely-shaven fur of some sort, but it still looks
more like fabric.
Cool website, by the way....I'm not much into 15th c. stuff that's
non-Italian, but I could be persuaded to change my mind <g>....lord
knows, it wouldn't be the first time!
--sue's two pence worth

Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've been looking at
> 
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/
> 
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/vosp177.jpg
> 
> and am puzzled by the fabric described as
> 
> 'purple (velvet?) houppelande, lined with green over a red undergown'
> 
> It looks like fur rather than fabric. Any views, anyone?
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 16:02:28 2002
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <a05100307ba2a6d294253@[158.252.211.53]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Painting by Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1425-30
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 21:07:34 -0000
Status: RO

Anahita wrote:

> Stevie Gamble wrote:
> >I've been looking at
> >
> >http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/
> >
> >http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/vosp177.jpg
> >
> >and am puzzled by the fabric described as 'purple (velvet?)
houppelande,
> >lined with green over a red undergown'
> >
> >It looks like fur rather than fabric. Any views, anyone?
>
> Different monitors and different operating systems display colors
> differently, so i can only say what i see.
>
> On my monitor, the outer houpelande appears to have an outer layer
of
> dark purple and an inner layer of green. Both appear to be fabric.
>
> However, the edging on the sleeves and the "yoke" in the front
appear
> to be of grey fur. There's a band that matches the sleeve edging on
> the skirt hem in the lower right corner, and it doesn't look very
> furry there.

Taking the grey fur first, it seems to be the usual bogstandard grey
squirrel, used on a vast scale by anyone who could afford it in this
time period. Grey squirrel really isn't very furry by most 21st
century standards:-)

http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/campbellp393.jpg

which is another Magdalen by Weydan, gives a much clearer example.
Note the jewelled underdress appropriate to someone who could afford
the fur.
Since Weyden painted for wealthy patrons he was pretty good at
painting luxurious items; see also
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/vosp14.jpg

for yet more squirrel fur.

Returning to the first Magdalen, the first problem I have with the
'velvet' over garment is the length of pile as painted; it seems too
long for a reproduction of velvet. It is, however, an accurate
rendition of a short haired fur.
The second is that it looks like a doublet, not a full length garment;
look at the way the pleats seem to vanish into thin air. I cannot
imagine a way of draping  the skirt to give that effect. If it weren't
so incredibly expensive I would wonder whether the Magdalen's squirrel
lined green overdress seen in other paintings as well as this was a
studio property, with another jerkin length outer fur added for a bit
of variety.

> It's sure cold in my house, and i would love to have a large warm
> woolen dress lined with real fur :-)

Yes, I can imagine. I'm lucky to have good heating; my problems start
when I go outside. And even then, by comparison with many members of
this list, it's positively tropical here in the City of London; the
office blocks pump out huge amounts of heat. But it brings home to one
that fur was worn for intensely practical reasons alongside those of
fashion.

best wishes
Stevie


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 16:12:41 2002
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From: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomadmt@pacbell.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lecturing in California
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 12:56:35 -0800
Status: RO

Ditto, in Davis....

Margo Glenn-Lewis

"Don't forget your bucket."
Ice Machine in the Desert - Brave Combo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Stephen Bergdahl
> Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 4:48 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lecturing in California
> 
> 
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> > 
> > For those who are interested: I'll be lecturing on Friday, 
> Jan. 24, in
> > Santa Cruz, California, on the Gothic fitted dress and the 
> Greenland gored
> > gown. The lecture is being sponsored by several SCA groups 
> in that area
> > and the kingdom's costuming guild.
> > 
> 
> So close and yet so far, as I sit here in Sacramento.  
> 
> -- 
> Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
> 
> Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
> Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
> Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 16:18:40 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Noel Noel!
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:18:06 -0800
Status: RO

Hi Stevie--and thanks. That's the next part of the project.

The Compendium is meant to be just that, a notebook.  I have a lot more 
stuff already from Hutton's later book, but way too much for a Compendium 
page.  I haven't seen "Merry England" yet, but "Stations of the Sun" 
references it a lot.  Also, I'm only going for what I can show was actually 
Tudor/Elizabethan practice, not for a history of Christmas.

Sometime soon (but not in time for this year) there will be a whole section 
just for Christmas, which eventually will include other holidays as well.

Cheers,

Maggie Secara
~The Elizabethan World is at http://ren.dm.net







>From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Noel Noel!
>Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:45:20 -0000
>
>Hi all,
>
>MaggiRos wrote:
>
> > Thought perhaps in honor of the season some of the late period gang
>at least
> > would like to see the new page I've added to the Renaissance site.
> >
> > Keeping an Elizabethan Christmas is at
> > <http://ren.dm.net/compendium/63.html>
>
>Lovely, indeed, but you might like to read, and cite, Ronald Hutton's
>'Rise and Fall of Merry England', which has a great deal more
>information on this.
>
>best wishes
>Stevie
>

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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:26:31 -0800
Status: RO

marcus findlay-arthur wrote:
>  > Unfortunately, the victorians _loved_ color combinations that we would
>  > consider hideous.
>
>Absolutely correct.
>
>  >   I saw a very similar dress made up in violet and fuschia.
>  > It was horrible, but very, very period.  Somewhere, I have a book that a
>  > writer from the period bemoans english women's lack of taste in colors.
>
>Seems to have been more universal that merely English taste when you get
>to see examples from other countries.
>
>  > Since all the photos we have from the period are black and white, we
>  > sometimes forget what colors were actually used.
>
>Very true. I've often wondered how much we the viewers superimpose our
>own colour tastes when looking at those black and white photos?
>
>  >   I've seen plenty of dresses from
>  > that period that combine colors like brown and blue and purple all in
>  > the same dress.
>
>Ditto. You shudder at some of the combinations and wonder just who would
>be able to look good in those colours.

Yes, but the idea was not to pick colors that "look good" on someone 
by our modern standards, rather, the idea is to look as fashionable 
as you can afford and as your social status will allow.

If anyone does historical re-creation costuming and worries about 
picking colors that look good on them by modern standards is not 
quite doing historical re-creation.

Now i understand that if someone is spending large sums of money on 
fabric and huge blocks of time on a "costume" they want it to look 
good on them. So of course we make compromises, unless we are really 
trying to re-create as closely as possible a surviving garment or one 
in a painting.

My clothing is simple in shape because of the times and places i do - 
Near East between 2nd to 16th centuries. I pick colors that look 
close to the dyes i know they used. These are not colors i normally 
wear - indigo (navy just does not look "good" on me, but i end up 
wearing a lot of it), blue-red to orange-red to orange (again, a 
range of colors i usually avoid), yellows (ditto). And as much gold 
in the fabric as i can find for 15th and 16th centuries - and i don't 
like bright metallic stuff. I'm not looking for colors that look good 
on me, but colors and patterns that look like what people wore then.

The few times i've made mid-19th c. clothing, i've picked fabrics 
that had colors that looked close to those i've seen surviving from 
the time - again, not colors i normally wear.

Anahita
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: Colleen McDonald <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Painting by Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1425-30
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 15:35:56 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 21 Dec 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:

> I've been looking at 
> 
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/
> 
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/vosp177.jpg
> 
> and am puzzled by the fabric described as  
> 
> 'purple (velvet?) houppelande, lined with green over a red undergown'
> 
> It looks like fur rather than fabric. Any views, anyone?

Let us neatly sidestep the question of monitor resolution and color
reproduction and go to the hardcopy...

First, for accuracy's sake, let's note that there's some doubt that it's a
van de Weyden. One source I have, which I believe is more recent than Vos,
puts this as "workshop" or "follower" of van de Weyden. It's dated
1440-1445 in this book. The painting is in Berlin. My reproduction is tiny
and not useful, and I can't find it in my 15 or so other books on Flemish
painting. I just ploughed through all my Berlin postcards, but no joy, and
no museum catalog. What little I can tell you is that while the Mary in
tht painting is a near-direct steal from another van der Weyden, the
Magdalen (whom we're concerned with) is not.

My book is in French, and I'm not clear enough on the caption on this to
state for sure, but it seems some of the picture was repainted or changed
since the original. Colleen -- you have this book in English (Kemperdick).
What's the caption on figure 49?

My image appears to have green at the V-edge of the collar and the
oversleeve edges; on the online version, these are an indeterminate
greyish color on my monitor. I'm more confused about the swath of green
going across her lap; if the uncrinkled edge is the hem, the skirt has
done some Mobius strip sort of thing and turned the lining to the outside,
or it's got a broad band of green at the bottom, or it's folded in a way I
can't comprehend. Perhaps the artist (or restorer?) didn't know either.

I wouldn't assume that the dress itself is fur. I don't think I've ever
seen fur used for the outer "fabric" of the gown in this period, just
edges and linings. I'd go with velvet. But what else is happening here is
beyond me.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Painting by Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1425-30
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 15:49:21 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 21 Dec 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:

> The second is that it looks like a doublet, not a full length garment;
> look at the way the pleats seem to vanish into thin air. I cannot
> imagine a way of draping the skirt to give that effect.

This is one of the few bits of that skirt I could figure out :-)

You're missing a layer of overlap. The pleats don't disappear; they're
covered at that point with a roll of the skirt from lower down that has
been hiked up to that spot and laid across the lap. If she looked down at
her lap she's see a pouch that she could carry something in if she wanted.
You can follow the line of the hiked-up bit coming around from behind her
right hip. 

It's the drapery around her *left* hip that's driving me bats.

Van der Weyden was equaled only by van Eyck in his rendering of fabric and
clothing. But I think this lady is not in his hand. The woman's face and
figure are enough to suggest that. So I'm not going to trust the dress as
much as I'd trust one of Rogier's own.

--Robin

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Painting by Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1425-30
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 22:28:13 -0000
Status: RO

Robin wrote
> > The second is that it looks like a doublet, not a full length
garment;
> > look at the way the pleats seem to vanish into thin air. I cannot
> > imagine a way of draping the skirt to give that effect.
>
> This is one of the few bits of that skirt I could figure out :-)
>
> You're missing a layer of overlap. The pleats don't disappear;
they're
> covered at that point with a roll of the skirt from lower down that
has
> been hiked up to that spot and laid across the lap. If she looked
down at
> her lap she's see a pouch that she could carry something in if she
wanted.
> You can follow the line of the hiked-up bit coming around from
behind her
> right hip.

Um, I'm still having difficulties in seeing it. If you put the two
details at

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/vosp14.jpg
and
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/vosp177.jpg

side by side it seems obvious that one is possible and one is not. The
play of light on a part of a dress being swept round from the right
hip across the lap would be quite different, as is shown in the first
scan.

> It's the drapery around her *left* hip that's driving me bats.

 Well, that too:-)

> Van der Weyden was equaled only by van Eyck in his rendering of
fabric and
> clothing. But I think this lady is not in his hand. The woman's face
and
> figure are enough to suggest that. So I'm not going to trust the
dress as
> much as I'd trust one of Rogier's own.

Certainly; as soon as one looks at the paintings side by side it's
obvious that either he had had a very rough fortnight or someone else
painted it.

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Gates of hell
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 23:22:04 +0000
Status: RO

Robin,

I'm still tracking down those references to the 'gates of hell' you 
mentioned.Currently I'm trying to find them in printed religious 
banns.Can you give me the rough period dates again - I've misplaced my 
note on this question,with this pending move in January.(If the cat 
didn't move I probably wouldn't find her at the moment.)

Marcus.

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Subject: [h-cost] Vanity thy name is man/Fashion plate dress 1851
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 23:16:49 +0000
Status: RO


On Saturday, December 21, 2002, at 09:26  pm, lilinah@earthlink.net 
wrote:

> Yes, but the idea was not to pick colors that "look good" on someone by 
> our modern standards, rather, the idea is to look as fashionable as you 
> can afford and as your social status will allow.

True Anahita - you make a sound point.
Hehehe but you must agree some of those period combinations can take a 
good bit of courage not to say adjusting too. : >>>
>
> If anyone does historical re-creation costuming and worries about 
> picking colors that look good on them by modern standards is not quite 
> doing historical re-creation.

Another good general point.
But as you say most of us make compromises.
However,looking 'good' was as important then as it is now and there were 
any number of contributing factors in every age,period,fashion and 
culture.And admittedly not every choice was probably the most flattering 
on many occasions.

For myself and my Hindu persona thats most of the fun.
Isn't the challenge and eventual success a thrill for you too?
>
> My clothing is simple in shape because of the times and places i do - 
> Near East between 2nd to 16th centuries. I pick colors that look close 
> to the dyes i know they used. These are not colors i normally wear - 
> indigo (navy just does not look "good" on me, but i end up wearing a 
> lot of it), blue-red to orange-red to orange (again, a range of colors 
> i usually avoid), yellows (ditto). And as much gold in the fabric as i 
> can find for 15th and 16th centuries - and i don't like bright metallic 
> stuff. I'm not looking for colors that look good on me, but colors and 
> patterns that look like what people wore then.

I think there is a chance that even with a limited Historic colour 
palette or unusual Historic colour combinations available re-enactors 
can still look both accurate,good and feel satisfaction with their 
efforts all at the same time.
Another aspect of the pleasure factor for me,is being able to wear/buy 
textiles I don't get to use or play with every day in a male wardrobe of 
the 2stC.

Originally my persona palette was very close to the colours I'd 
wear/worn for a very very long time in daily life.Although not entirely 
applicable since I've moved into more autumnal colours for day to day 
wear these days.
>
> The few times i've made mid-19th c. clothing, i've picked fabrics that 
> had colors that looked close to those i've seen surviving from the 
> time - again, not colors i normally wear.

In my opinion thats admirable and what everyone seems to strive 
for.Especially in many instances on this list and the folks I dealt with 
back in the States.
When I put together my Elizabethan wardrobe back in the USA,I chose 
colours of the period that I liked and felt that I could live with for a 
longish timeframe.And its only too true as far as my current Hindu 
persona is concerned.And when I stretch a point I know why - inevitably 
its for the sheer fun and pleasure of it.
Therefore in my case,I can only say that vanity thy name is man. < : >>>>

Marcus.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gates of hell
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:13:11 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 21 Dec 2002, marcus findlay-arthur wrote:

> I'm still tracking down those references to the 'gates of hell' you
> mentioned.Currently I'm trying to find them in printed religious
> banns.Can you give me the rough period dates again - I've misplaced my
> note on this question,with this pending move in January.(If the cat
> didn't move I probably wouldn't find her at the moment.)

You sent this to the list, so I'll respond there. For those who came in
late, this refers to a question I raised some time ago about the origin of
the use of the phrase "gates of hell" to refer to the sideless surcote.

The period would be about 1340-1400, with a little flopover possible on
either side of that. Many thanks for keeping your eye out; please don't go
to extra effort on my behalf, as it's certainly not urgent!

My gut feeling is that this was certainly not a period *noun* for the
garment, though it's used that way commonly today (particularly in some
parts of the SCA). I have a vague recollection of reading in some bad
Victorian costume book that "preachers of the Middle Ages compared these
side openings the Gates of Hell because the view of the female figure
tempted men into lustful acts." I suspect that it's some secondary source
refrence like this that is to blame for the common modern usage in the
costume community.

What I'd like to find out was whether there *is* any record of 14th
century preachers, or anyone else, likening these garments to the Gates of
Hell, so I can find out what quote might have been picked up by the later
costume writer.

And if anyone notices this phrase in a costume book, please let me
know, as I have yet to track down the culprit.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lecturing in California
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:15:05 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Stephen wrote:
> > So close and yet so far, as I sit here in Sacramento.  

Margo wrote:
> Ditto, in Davis....

Well, Davis and Sacramento are near each other. Maybe enough critical mass
to get me out there for another visit ;-)

--Robin

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vanity thy name is man/Fashion plate dress 1851
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 19:37:15 -0500
Status: RO

On Saturday 21 December 2002 06:16 pm, marcus findlay-arthur wrote:
> On Saturday, December 21, 2002, at 09:26  pm, lilinah@earthlink.net
>
> wrote:
>[text cut here]
>
> I think there is a chance that even with a limited Historic colour
> palette or unusual Historic colour combinations available re-enactors
> can still look both accurate,good and feel satisfaction with their
> efforts all at the same time.

My sentiments exactly.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Subject: [h-cost] Request for advice on 'velvet'
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 01:05:10 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I almost bankrupted myself buying two velvet-like 'table covers' on
Ebay, at

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2222&item=92312
5757&rd=1

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=921012275

The pictures are still up, though possibly not for long. Both have now
arrived, and I would be interested in peoples ideas on the origins of
these pieces before I commit sacrilege and turn them into a
Victorian/Edwardian/1930s Renaissance  Revival costume. Both have long
pile, and a lot of different bright colours, but the 'cut velvet' is
much softer to the touch, and has a somewhat thicker base fabric (for
want of a better description). I haven't tried a burn test yet on
either of them.

I doubt that I'll ever lay my hands on anything closer to a
Renaissance velvet, hence the urge to sacrilege, but if these sorts of
pieces are reasonably common I'd feel less guilty about it...

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 20:49:42 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 projects
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:49:09 -0800
Status: RO

Well, for 2003 i'm going to cook fewer SCA feasts (between Nov 2001 
and Sept 2002 i cooked 5 feasts all of historically accurate food for 
90 to 150 people). I'm only cooking two in 2003.

This way i'll have more time for:

1) Learning to embroider, especially focusing on Mamluk embroidery, 
then embroidering on the two re-created Mamluk linen tunics i've made 
and on the legs of a pair of linen sirwal. Of course, i don't expect 
to finish all this in 2003, but at least i can get it planned and 
started.

2) Making paper patterns from the first couple of 16th c. Persian 
prototype/test garments i made in 2002. Each was made from a 
different fabric width (i rip my modern fabrics to more historical 
fabric widths), so i need to make patterns for each.

Then i have to finish the qaba' i have cut out and partially sewn - i 
really goofed and cut out 4 gores facing the same way. Once i do 
that, i have to make a paper pattern from it...

And finally in this set, i have to make another set of 16th c. 
Persian garments using the fancy fabric cowering in a corner of my 
closet.

3) Making a prototype/test 16th c. Ottoman Turkish outfit by January 
4th for an SCA event. If i get some of it done, and it's even close 
to what i want, then i'll spend some time this year making an 
"improved" outfit. I also dream of embroidering my gomlek - although 
i have only some not very detailed paintings to go on - it appears 
there was embroidery along or near seams and down the tops of the 
sleeves. Not sure what embroidery technique was used - i know some of 
the stitches that the Ottomans used, but i'm not sure which were on 
the gomlek.

4) Making some Near Eastern shoes - i have a whole book in French on 
those found in Egypt with some pretty good pictures and i can read 
French). And maybe even a pair of red leather stockings - i keep 
reading that Ottoman Turks wore leather stockings, so i'm going to 
have to figure out what the authors really mean...

5) And now for something completely different: making a new 
Elizabethan "corset", if i can find someone with some experience to 
help me. I understand the basics, but it's darned hard to fit oneself 
all alone...

Nothing as ambitious as some folks' plans, but i try to be realistic, 
and honestly i'll be pleased if i achieve 3 of the above.

al-Sayyida Anahita bint 'abd al-Karim al-Fassi
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah Fourment
References: <5.1.1.6.2.20021218173319.0418dcc8@saltmine.radix.net>
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 19:09:02 -0800
Status: RO

To Mara-

These aren't a teardrop pearl but, being on a hoop, maybe you could 
switch the round ones with some other available drop?

http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/Earrings/earrings.html

Not much help I'm afraid,

Theresa Eacker

Kevin + Mara wrote:

> Ok, folks, I am annoyed.
> 
> I found the PERFECT earrings for the Susannah Fourment outfit on the web 
> site of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Unfortunately, when I ordered 
> them, I got a message saying that they are out of stock and won't be 
> restocked.
> 
> The earrings are here:
> http://www.metmuseum.org/store/st_family_viewer.asp?familyID={2AE28399-45B2-11D4-937D-00902786BF44}&shopperID=&FromPage=catjewelry&familyNo=13&catID={0373D311-9571-11D5-9402-00902786BF44}
> 
> (or here 
> http://www.metmuseum.org/store/images/Z.jw.I1176.I1930.L%281%29.jpg)
> 
> These are the earrings I'm trying to find:
> http://www.artchive.com/artchive/R/rubens/rubens_susanna_fourment.jpg.html


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 22:56:53 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is going on with list..??????
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 14:56:39 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us> wrote: 

>Something strange going on with mine too.  In the
> past few hours
> I've gotten over 100 posts ranging in date from
> 12/11 to 12/21.  Some of
> them are duplicates of messages I've gotten before,
> some of them are new,
> and they aren't in chronological order.  

This is exactly the same thing that I found waiting
for me when I came online this morning (Sunday 22 in
Australia)!!! About 120 of them!

Wading through the remaining 44 now....


Bella

http://greetings.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Greetings
- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 21 23:04:41 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Question about 1540s Italian dress
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 15:04:13 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: 
> I think the Lotto dress has some very unusual
> qualities (the stripes
> being the most notable), but there are lots of
> examples of dresses in
> other areas of Europe in the same (or close to the
> same) time period
> with fur linings.  Or slashed sleeves.  Or front
> lacing.
> And as for the flounce, there's at least one other
> example, and that's
> the dress I was first asking about....<g>

Yes...all these elements exist somewhere, at some
point in time, I just don't think they all existed
together in the time and place Lotto was painting that
particular dress....

> Maybe Lotto was combining stylistic elements from a
> regional style, or
> at least relatively unknown (the flounce, the
> stripes, the headdress),
> with other bits to make it look "old" or
> "different," to contribute to
> the allegorical theme? The slashed sleeves might
> refer back to an
> earlier style, for instance.  The fur lining might
> be something seen in
> Northern Italian clothing, or in foreign
> clothing....


Which is indeed what I said...

"> > This is perhaps because this is an allegorical
> > painting, and so the artist has used his artistic
> > license to create something that's unusual, whilst
> > still retaining enough of the contemporary look to
> > have his viewers identify with the heroic
> Lucrezia."


Bella

http://greetings.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Greetings
- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2nd Quilt Block: Full View
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 00:38:08 -0500
Status: RO

Actually Lalah, I have been in bed most of the time since Sept.  I have hurt
my back really bad.  I get up for an hour or two and then have to go back to
bed.  Working on the quilt... I go downstairs and work for an hour or until
I hurt, then go back to bed for a couple more hours.  If I am lucky, I get
to work on the quilt 3 hours a day.  I have about 12 blocks to the quilt
finished!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 00:41:30 -0500
Status: RO

Thank you for checking Eliz!!!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 00:42:37 -0500
Status: RO

Stevie,

Try calling the two phone numbers that I sent.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: "Joy Shillaker" <joyshillaker@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Pilum and caps
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 12:27:03 +0000
Status: RO

This is the reference to a cap /'pilum' from Chelmsford records office.

T/A 418/1/12

Repository: Essex Record Office
Level: Category Records in public repositories
Level: Fonds CALENDAR OF ESSEX ASSIZE RECORDS
Level: Sub-Fonds Calendar of Essex Assize File [ASS 35/1/3] Assizes held at 
Brentwood 22 February 1559

Reference Code  T/A 418/1/12
Scope and Content Indictment of John Brown of Good EAster Labourer, 16 Aug., 
broke into the house of John Jenkyns at Writtle betwen 1 and 3 o' clock in 
the afternoon and stole a doublet (tunicam) worth 13s.4d., ajeerkin worth 
8s., a cap (pilum) worth 2s.,4d., pieces of money called "a dobell dokett" 
worth 15s., "a Frenche crowne" worth 6s.8d., a "half a Inglyshe crowne" 
worth 2s.6d., and 3s in money belonging to Edw., Fuller. Pleads not guilty; 
not guilty. [ASS 35/1/3/12]
Accumilation Dates 16 August 1558
Acquisition Date From 1558
Acquisition Date To 1558

This is one of the easier records to read. It's a mixture of English with 
the odd word here and there translated.

One of the most intersting things about these records is the complete lack 
of standardisation of spelling! Some records show different spellings within 
the same document for the same item.

regards
Joy



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 22 08:19:43 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] update of dress diary.
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 14:22:49 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
I have upldated the dressdiary with  new pictures of the finished left side
of skirt.

Merry Christmas to you all!!!

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 22 10:25:40 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Paypal warning
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 15:29:02 -0000
Status: RO

Penny wrote

> Try calling the two phone numbers that I sent.
>

The info you gave was:

'I tell our students who need assistance that they can call
Paypal's customer service at 1-888-221-1161  or 402-935-7733 M-F, 6AM
to
midnight, Central Standard Time.'

I don't propose to pay for long distance telephone calls from the UK
to the USA trying to sort out why they don't reply to my emails.  Few
people would...

best wishes
Stevie

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 15:55:50 -0000
Status: RO

Suggest you sign up with onetel for your telephone a US call is 0.5p more
than a national one (last time I looked) and well worth it if you do any
business abroad

Mel

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 13:28:55 -0500
Status: RO

        Ooooh, Penny, I am so sorry about your back.  I broke mine in my
wild and crazy youth and have had problems with it ever since so I can
sure sympathize with you.  Hope you get better soon.  I will send lots of
good thoughts your way.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] update of dress diary.
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 13:12:40 -0600
Status: RO

Wow!!!!

You are still the master! <grin>

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 02:22 PM 12/22/02 +0100, you wrote:
>Hello.
>I have upldated the dressdiary with  new pictures of the finished left side
>of skirt.
>
>Merry Christmas to you all!!!
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 22 14:45:43 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah
  Fourment
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 11:48:58 -0800
Status: RO

If you're just looking for the standard teardrop pearl on a hoop, why not
make some?  I buy the small hoop earrings at K-mart and the like, and add a
teardrop pearl strung on a headpin. Most bead stores have the pearls, and
all of them have the headpins. 

The most expensive part of the deal is buying a pair of roundnose pliers,
but you want those anyway, right? I mean, they're a TOOL!! That you can use
for costuming!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 22 15:19:41 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Diderot prints for sale
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 12:00:03 -0800
Status: RO

Recently a dealer sent me a small group of pages disbound (by someone)

from an unknown (to him) book, dated by the type of paper to the
early-to-mid 18th century.  They show patterns for men's garments and
he thought  I might want to use them in a book.  Unfortunately for me,

they are quite identifiably from Diderot's encyclopedia--I have modern

books that reprint the same pages. If they'd been something that
didn't have a modern reprint, I'd have been thrilled. Anyway, they're
very interesting but not of any practical use to me. Maybe someone in
the group would like to buy them?

The page size is  about 8 1/4" by 12."  The prints are plates 3, 4, 5,

6, 7, and 9 of Diderot's section of the art of the "tailleur," and
"tailleur d'habits," or makers of men's clothing, at least some of it
ecclesiastical.

Plate 3 shows "Coupe de Drap de cinq quarts pour Habit, l'este et
Culotte &c, et mesures [the notched paper slips used for measuring],
aulne, etc."

Plate 4 shows "Etosse [etoffe?], de Drap de different Aubnage pour
Requelaure et Collets, pour Soutanelle, Volantet Soutan.

Plate 5 shows "Etosses droites pour Soutanne, Robe de Chanbre,  Robe
de Palais, representees par moit."

Plate 6 shows "Grand Manteau de 4 Aulnes de drap Etosse droite pour
Robe de Chanbre, et Voile ou Taffetas pour Manteau d'Abbe."

Plate 7 shows "Etoisses etroite pour Habillemans Manteau long d'Abbe."

Plate 9 has no caption, however it seems to represent ecclestiastical
clothing.

Please forgive the lack of accents in my mailer editor, any typos, and

my inability to translate accurately from French.

These pages have all been reprinted in various books that reprint
Diderot plates, so if you want them it  might well be for framing, or
just to own original Diderot pages. The dealer says that the paper
type is early to mid 18th century and I see no reason to doubt him.
However, it's not like I've ever seen
the whole book these were disbound from.

The paper is rag paper and in much better condition than many wood
pulp publications from the second half of the 19th century that I
own.  However, there are small nicks in the edges (especially where
the string used to sew the signature together was) and the paper is a
bit yellowed, especially close to the edges (but it may never have
been bright white).  Note:  I am professionally a publisher of new
publications, not a seller or appraiser of antique ones.

The price of the plates is $30 each plus insured shipping. I'd prefer
to sell all six as a lot and also, to get payment right away. These
are essentially on consignment to me, and if I'm not selling them I
want to send them back to the person who sent them to me.

Thanks,

Fran



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 22 17:03:53 2002
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] another 14th c block print
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From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] button problem - help?
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 14:01:50 -0800
Status: RO

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Hi everyone,

I have somewhat of a button emergency, and I'm hoping that one of the =
knowledgable folks here will have some ideas.

Two years ago, I bought 40 buttons at Britex in San Francisco.  You'd =
think that when you buy 40 of a button they are all the same, right?  =
Unfortunately, now that I am going to use them for a competition =
project, I'm find that they are not all the same.  (I know I should have =
checked sooner.)  The design is the same on all of the - shank button =
with a line of small dots between two edges around the outside and a =
lozenge pattern inside the circle.  The problem is the background - on =
23 of the buttons it is definitely black (looks like enamel or niello) =
and on 17 buttons, the background is the same metal color as the raised =
design. =20

I need at least 30 of the buttons to be the same - and have tried =
soaking the black ones in jewelry cleaner to see if the color was the =
result of dirt.  So far, it is not looking like it. =20

Questions for the list are:

1.  Do you think that there is a quick, easy way to add black to the =
buttons that don't have it?  Suggestions so far are black spray paint =
and then quickly wipe the ridges with a clean cloth, and hand painting =
the black in somehow.  Thoughts?

2.  For those who have worked with Britex, do you think they would be =
helpful if I called to try to match the buttons?  I would need to email =
them a picture of the ones that I am looking for, so I'm not sure if =
they would be receptive.

3.  Can anyone recommend a site that has shank buttons with designs =
appropriate for the 14th century?  I don't have a clue where to start =
and can't afford to spend days searching the web for this.

Thanks!

Colleen





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] button problem - help?
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 22:55:35 -0000
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Colleen wrote:

1.  Do you think that there is a quick, easy way to add black to the
buttons that don't have it?  Suggestions so far are black spray paint
and then quickly wipe the ridges with a clean cloth, and hand painting
the black in somehow.  Thoughts?

----------------------------------------------------------------------
-
If they are silver, or a base metal with copper, you can buy oxidising
chemicals from a jeweller's suppliers which will blacken the whole
thing within seconds.  After that you lightly sand down the raised
portions to get the effect you want. If they are not those sorts of
metals, or indeed, metal at all but polyester, then I can't think of
anything other than using temporary water colour as a quick fix.  That
way you won't completely ruin the buttons for use in the long term.
Good Luck!

best wishes
Stevie

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From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] button problem - solved!
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Hi everyone,

Stevie, thanks for the idea. =20

What I ended up doing - I took a black Sharpie and colored a button, =
then wiped off the raised edges.  Voila!  After it dried, it looked very =
similar to the other buttons.  Not necessarily a 14th century solution =
to the problem, but one that will do and will keep me sane.

Thanks!

Colleen



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Great!

Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 09:34:16 -0800
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12/20/2002 6:36:06 PM, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

>
>
>I don't even have a clue whether there's a name for this type of fabric,
>other than "metallic." "Cloth-of-gold" probably isn't right from a
>historic sense, even if it's real gold. But I also don't know what might
>be sold under that name today.
>
>Is there a name for fabric woven of metal threads?
>

http://www.srfabrics.com/silks/othersilks.htm

Are you talking about the silk/metal tissue?  It is commonly seen with silk running one way and metal thread in 
the other.  Before washing, the fabric is very stiff, and can be bent.  After washing, the silk shrinks, the 
metal doesn't, and the result is very crinkly.

I have also seen it sold with rayon instead of silk for a lower price.

Fabric.com calls what I think is the same/similar stuff metallic silk organza.  (I haven't ordered any, so I am 
going mostly by what I see on my monitor.)

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-bridal---special-occasion-metallic-silk-
organza.html
>

And I think, although I'm too lazy to go see, that Drea used the same stuff in a coif that she has up on her 
site in her wardrobe section.

I'm about to make a set of Spanish sleeves with the gold tissue as the base.  (The narrow sleeves with vertical 
slits bound down at intervals by horizontal bands.) 

-Magdalena






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From: Marsha Hamilton <mjh@pearlandplume.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, Marsha Hamilton <mjh@pearlandplume.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Pearl drop earrings
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 02:11:57 -0500
Status: RO

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
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This is probably too late on the search for pearl earrings but...
 

I don't have a website yet but have made jewelry I've sold at shows. If any
items in the attached picture fit your needs, e-mail for details.  Prices
for earrings shown are under $40. but are of quality material--vermeil,
silver, gold-plate, freshwater & cultured baroque pearls, garnets,
amethysts, aquamarine, etc.

Picture may not transmit well but gives general idea.  Apologies for
shameless self-promotion.

Marsha J. Hamilton
The Pearl and Plume
mjh@pearlandplume.com





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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 15:45:09 -0800
Status: RO

To Bjarne-

That is heart-breakingly beautiful!!!  I have this vision of you with a 
magic needle with  all that embroidery just pouring out of the point and 
producing wonderful images.

Thanks for sharing,

Theresa Eacker

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hello.
> I have upldated the dressdiary with  new pictures of the finished left side
> of skirt.
> 
> Merry Christmas to you all!!!
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
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> 


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From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lecturing in California
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Stephen Bergdahl" at Dec 20, 2002 04:48:22 AM
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 16:36:01 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Robin - I'm interested.  Could you resend the information on the lecture?
I didn't receive the original post.

thank you!

Heather


> 
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> > 
> > For those who are interested: I'll be lecturing on Friday, Jan. 24, in
> > Santa Cruz, California, on the Gothic fitted dress and the Greenland gored
> > gown. The lecture is being sponsored by several SCA groups in that area
> > and the kingdom's costuming guild.
> > 
> 
> So close and yet so far, as I sit here in Sacramento.  
> 
> -- 
> Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
> 
> Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
> Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
> Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 22 20:10:41 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] button problem - help?
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 19:20:08 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 22 Dec 2002, Colleen McDonald wrote:

> 1.  Do you think that there is a quick, easy way to add black to the
> buttons that don't have it?  Suggestions so far are black spray paint
> and then quickly wipe the ridges with a clean cloth, and hand painting
> the black in somehow.  Thoughts?

Would it work to paint in with model paint (it's enamel-like and quite
durable) and then wipe off the raised areas? Spray paint sounds awfully
messy.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah  Fourment
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 17:47:10 -0800
Status: RO

Margo, you and I certainly think alike!  I have three pairs of pliers,
roundnose, needlenose, bent nose.... I have a grommet setter and three
hammers too.  All for costuming, of course!

Everytime someone on the list mentions a costuming use for another tool, I
well, pretty much run out and buy it, which would explain the lacing
crimpers I've yet to use...

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"I have no other but a woman's reason:
I think him so, because I think him so."
Two Gentlemen of Verona, Act I, Sc. I - W. Shakespeare




----- Original Message -----
From: "Margo Anderson" <margo@margospatterns.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah
Fourment


> If you're just looking for the standard teardrop pearl on a hoop, why not
> make some?  I buy the small hoop earrings at K-mart and the like, and add
a
> teardrop pearl strung on a headpin. Most bead stores have the pearls, and
> all of them have the headpins.
>
> The most expensive part of the deal is buying a pair of roundnose pliers,
> but you want those anyway, right? I mean, they're a TOOL!! That you can
use
> for costuming!
>
> Margo
>
> "One Tough Costumer"
>
>
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 22 21:18:42 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] update of dress diary.
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 13:18:19 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

Oh my...this just makes me drool.....wonderful! :)


Bella 

http://greetings.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Greetings
- Send your seasons greetings online this year!
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 23:27:07 -0500
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Thank you Lalah.  My problem is that Degenerative Disk Disease has caught up
with me.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: Stephen Bergdahl <madly@2xtreme.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] now Tale of Two Cities (was: 11th century Scottish attire)
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 11:33:26 -0800
Status: RO

Theresa Eacker wrote:
> 
> Stephen Bergdahl wrote: (Pruning)
> 
>   I'm still recovering
> > for the Country & Western version of "A Tale of Two City" something's
> > are not meant to be done with a southern accent.
> 
> Stephen-
> 
> I must have dozed off when _that_ came out. What was the name of
> the...production and who was in it?  Just so I know to duck next time it
> emerges!!!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
Theresa

Don't worry it was a local production here is N. CA. The rest of the
world is safe from "For Soothe", pronounced as "FRRE SUUTHEE!"  My teeth
are on edge just typing it. 

-- 
Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 05:03:47 2002
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pilum and caps
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 10:02:48 +0000
Status: RO

The Latin words for the objects stolen are in the accusative case, as something has been done *to* them; so it would be "Tunica" and "pil(e)us" in the nominative. "Pilum" meaning javelin is a different word.

Kate Bunting (remembering her O-Level Latin!)

>>> joyshillaker@hotmail.com 12/22/02 12:27pm >>>
This is the reference to a cap /'pilum' from Chelmsford records office.

T/A 418/1/12

Repository: Essex Record Office
Level: Category Records in public repositories
Level: Fonds CALENDAR OF ESSEX ASSIZE RECORDS
Level: Sub-Fonds Calendar of Essex Assize File [ASS 35/1/3] Assizes held at 
Brentwood 22 February 1559

Reference Code  T/A 418/1/12
Scope and Content Indictment of John Brown of Good EAster Labourer, 16 Aug., 
broke into the house of John Jenkyns at Writtle betwen 1 and 3 o' clock in 
the afternoon and stole a doublet (tunicam) worth 13s.4d., ajeerkin worth 
8s., a cap (pilum) worth 2s.,4d., pieces of money called "a dobell dokett" 
worth 15s., "a Frenche crowne" worth 6s.8d., a "half a Inglyshe crowne" 
worth 2s.6d., and 3s in money belonging to Edw., Fuller. Pleads not guilty; 
not guilty. [ASS 35/1/3/12]
Accumilation Dates 16 August 1558
Acquisition Date From 1558
Acquisition Date To 1558

This is one of the easier records to read. It's a mixture of English with 
the odd word here and there translated.

One of the most intersting things about these records is the complete lack 
of standardisation of spelling! Some records show different spellings within 
the same document for the same item.

regards
Joy



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 08:49:43 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah 
 Fourment
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 08:49:57 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Margo Anderson" <margo@margospatterns.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 11:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah
> Fourment
>
>
> > If you're just looking for the standard teardrop pearl on a hoop, why not
> > make some?  I buy the small hoop earrings at K-mart and the like, and add a
> > teardrop pearl strung on a headpin. Most bead stores have the pearls, and
> > all of them have the headpins.

I did, actually -- got the findings from Ornabead.com.  But I'm not
exactly happy with the quality of the pearls I ordered from Ornabead, or
with the ones from my local crafts/fabric stores.  I'm looking for better
quality pearls... But in the meantime, these popped up, and I just fell in
love.  I really like the way the pearls are fastened to the posts, and so
far haven't been able to find posts/findings that look exactly right.
Isn't it a pain when you have an idea in your head and can't quite get
what you want?  Sigh...  The earrings I made are 'passable', but I want
'perfect.' (wry grin)

> > The most expensive part of the deal is buying a pair of roundnose pliers,
> > but you want those anyway, right? I mean, they're a TOOL!! That you can
> use
> > for costuming!
> >
> > Margo

LOL!  I've got lots of pliers ;D

-- Mara

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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 06:44:30 -0700
Status: RO

*sigh*
It is *soooo* scrumptious! Your customer is luckier than she could know!
--sue, trudging off to work for the day....;-)

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hello.
> I have upldated the dressdiary with  new pictures of the finished left side
> of skirt.
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Where and how do we sign up to attend the Institute?  Any leads would be 
greatly appreciated!
-Julia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Where and how do we sign up to attend the Institute?&nbsp; Any leads would be greatly appreciated!<BR>
-Julia</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress diary loosegown
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 23:45:40 +0100
Status: RO

Hello Deredere

Ohh yes it looks very nice! How wonderfull with a white wool dress.
Looking forwards to follow it, and good luck with the rest of the
work................
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere & Owen Iskander" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "H-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 9:30 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Dress diary loosegown


> Ippie!!
>
> I have more pictures, and still a lot to do...
> But now it gives an idea of how it is going to look when it is finished
> :-) .
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html
>
> Just don't look at the spelling ;-) , I know it is terrible.
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 22:00:48 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Miniatures -- how worn?
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 08:55:47 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

How were miniatures worn in the 18th c. (or for that matter, in the 16th
and 17th)?  I've seen some worn by women on ribbons around the neck,
either as a choker or as a looser pendant on a thin string, which is then
pinned to the gown at the breast; but can't recall any pictures of men
wearing miniatures.  Yet they had to have had them -- were they carrying
them in their pockets on something like a watch fob arrangement?

-- Mara

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 22:00:49 2002
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From: AlbraKat@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help needed -- drop pearl earrings a la Susannah  Fourment
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 08:57:56 EST
Status: RO

Have you tried FireMountain Gems in Oregon? They have a great selection of 
pearls and all sorts of semi-precious stones and findings. I've been pretty 
happy with their stuff.For a bit more quality(and price!!!) Rio Grande in New 
Mexico is also good---and then your pearl earrings will probably look more 
like what you had in mind:)Both these places have websites--and the personnel 
at both places has been very nice when I make phone inquiries.
Good luck!
Albra
(now assuming cloaking device again:)
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 22:18:45 2002
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OED & ? 4 Stevie
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 18:50:12 -0800
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Sometime back, when I was mentioning frippers, Stevie asked me where I =
got the definition from as she was updating what I recalled as the OED.  =
Which made me wonder what it was.  Perhaps it wasn't the OED although I =
suppose Stevie could be updating the Oxford English Dictionary, it seems =
unlikely.  So my question for Stevie is what was it that you were =
updating.  I was hoping it was some wonderful costuming/historic =
dictionary that I could have an online peek at.=20

Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sometime back, when I was mentioning =
frippers,=20
Stevie asked me where I got the definition from as she was updating what =
I=20
recalled as the OED.&nbsp; Which made me wonder what it was.&nbsp; =
Perhaps it=20
wasn't the OED although I suppose Stevie could be updating the Oxford =
English=20
Dictionary, it seems unlikely.&nbsp; So my question for Stevie is what =
was it=20
that you were updating.&nbsp; I was hoping it was some wonderful=20
costuming/historic dictionary that I could have an online peek=20
at.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lisa Sinervo</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Threadneedle St. Clothiers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.ThreadneedleSt.com">www.ThreadneedleSt.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 22:20:02 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress diary loosegown
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 19:02:42 -0700
Status: RO

Deredere, the gown is lovely!
And please, don't worry about the spelling...your meaning is quite
clear, and I have *no* doubt that your English is a h@ll of a lot better
than my German!
--sue

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
> Ippie!!
> 
> I have more pictures, and still a lot to do...
> But now it gives an idea of how it is going to look when it is finished
> :-) .
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html
> 
> Just don't look at the spelling ;-) , I know it is terrible.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 22:37:07 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coral necklaces
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 23:25:27 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
I have seen lots of jewels with corals this summer at an exhibition at
Christiansborg Castle, Copenhagen. It was a travelling exhibition from
Russia. It was the red corals that most of the jewels had, there were
tiarras, necklasses bracelets broches..............
Some of the jewels had belonged to Emperess Catharine the Great. (18th
century)
In Italy (where i go every summer) they have tons and tons of these red
corals for sale, and quite cheap.
I know it is illegal to bring them to Denmark, and i really cant figure out
where they get all those red corals from, it seems as if all the ocean round
Italy was grown all over with these red corals. Does any know about where
they get these? Most beautifull they are and they comes in several shades of
red, from light pink to deep redish brown.


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 7:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Coral necklaces


> Folks,
> Coral necklaces were apparently pretty popular in the
> 17th/18th/early 19th centuries.  I ordered some 'mock coral' glass beads
> from Ornabead and made a choker with them, but a friend has expressed
> curiosity as to whether the beads ought to be of a more uniform size
> (there's some slight, but visible, variation in the size of the beads).
>
> Has anyone seen an original coral necklace (choker, small beads) from this
> period?  I've seen a few in paintings, but it's hard to tell if the beads
> are all the same size or just of a fairly similar size.  I think I caught
> a glimpse of an original necklace on the TV the other day, on a program
> that showed the Foundlings Hospital (?), founded in the 18th c. to take
> care of children born to unwed mothers, but the necklace (in a display of
> items that mothers left for their children, but which weren't given to the
> children) wasn't on the screen for more than a few seconds, not long
> enough for me to get a good look.
>
> Another question -- I know that coral necklaces were very commonly worn by
> children in the 18th century, and were not infreqently worn by women in
> the 19th century (Regency period).  Has anyone seen examples of coral
> necklaces worn by grown women in the 17th or 18th centuries?  I _think_
> they were, but am looking for a little confirmation.
>
> Thanks,
> Mara
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Williamsburg Textile Institute January classes
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 23:27:51 +0100
Status: RO

Surely wished i could go two!!!
Have fun, and please post your adventures there - here!
The new book "What Clothes Reveal" is most beautifull, i have droolled over
it the last coupple of days.


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Williamsburg Textile Institute January classes


>
> >
> > From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> > Date: 2002/12/23 Mon AM 11:55:53 EST
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Subject: RE: [h-cost] Williamsburg Textile Institute January classes
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone was going to any of the Williamsburg Textile
> > Institute classes in mid-January?  I tried to sign up for the pattern
> > drafting one but that one was full, so am taking "Decorative Fringes"
1,2,
> > and 3.
> > -Megan
>
>   I won't be at the classes, but I will be in town!!
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> R.Carnegie@verizon.net
> "Argue for your limitations, and they are yours."
>              R. Bach
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 22:40:56 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 projects
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 22:37:43 +0000
Status: RO

Sounds fab Anahita!

Lots of work tho' hehehe.

> 1) Learning to embroider, especially focusing on Mamluk embroidery, 
> then embroidering on the two re-created Mamluk linen tunics i've made 
> and on the legs of a pair of linen sirwal. Of course, i don't expect to 
> finish all this in 2003, but at least i can get it planned and started.

What stitches are you planning to execute and have you had any ideas of 
the thread you'll use or design you'll recreate?

Thats pretty authentic ripping the fabric widths.
You'll have too come over to  Europe for a sewing clutch to promote 
Middle Eastern & Asian awareness here.

> Then i have to finish the qaba' i have cut out and partially sewn - i 
> really goofed and cut out 4 gores facing the same way.

Nice to know other folk do things like that - I always feel such a twerp 
mucking up. : >>>

> 4) Making some Near Eastern shoes - i have a whole book in French on 
> those found in Egypt with some pretty good pictures and i can read 
> French).

Cool.

>  And maybe even a pair of red leather stockings - i keep reading that 
> Ottoman Turks wore leather stockings, so i'm going to have to figure 
> out what the authors really mean...

Pretty ambitious - I've considered doing some Mughal versions when 
things quieten down and my move is a thing of the past.I haven't found 
patterns but've been building up a collection of ref pics of 16thC 
shoes & slippers.

Leather stockings sounds rather study.But wildly interesting - I wonder 
how long they were,any ideas?Possibly cut as Elizabethan hose/stockings 
were and shaped to the leg and foot?
>
> 5) And now for something completely different: making a new Elizabethan 
> "corset", if i can find someone with some experience to help me. I 
> understand the basics, but it's darned hard to fit oneself all alone...

Margo and Drea!!!
Founts of information!!! Wildly helpful the pair of them.

Have a wonderful time of it - your projects will certainly keep you 
busy.Warm Season Greetings.

Marcus.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress diary loosegown
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 21:09:41 -0000
Status: RO

Karen wrote, of Deredere's loose gown project,

> It looks fantastic so far! I can't wait to see the finished product.
>

Absolutely right; it's marvellous! I have been working on a similar
project, but my chances of tracking down such lovely gold lace are
non-existent. But at least I get to admire the design and construction
skills shown in this beautiful project:-)


best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 22:22:06 +0000
Status: RO

Very nice!Very nice indeed Bjarne!
Season's greetings too.

Marcus.


On Sunday, December 22, 2002, at 01:22  pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hello.
> I have upldated the dressdiary with  new pictures of the finished left 
> side
> of skirt.
>
> Merry Christmas to you all!!!
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 14:40:36 -0600
Status: RO

It looks fantastic so far! I can't wait to see the finished product. 



Karen

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 22:46:24 2002
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From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 21:30:51 +0100
Status: RO

Ippie!!

I have more pictures, and still a lot to do...
But now it gives an idea of how it is going to look when it is finished 
:-) .
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html

Just don't look at the spelling ;-) , I know it is terrible.

Greetings,
        Deredere


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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 14:35:39 EST
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There is a parure, or whole set, of coral jewelry pictured in Revolution in 
Fashion.  (It includes a branch coral tiara that I would just about die for, 
but, I believe, a necklace and bracelet as well, and I think there is a 
close-up.)
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">There is a parure, or whole set, of coral jewelry pictured in Revolution in Fashion.&nbsp; (It includes a branch coral tiara that I would just about die for, but, I believe, a necklace and bracelet as well, and I think there is a close-up.)<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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> 
> From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> Date: 2002/12/23 Mon AM 11:55:53 EST
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Williamsburg Textile Institute January classes
> 
> I was wondering if anyone was going to any of the Williamsburg Textile
> Institute classes in mid-January?  I tried to sign up for the pattern
> drafting one but that one was full, so am taking "Decorative Fringes" 1,2,
> and 3.
> -Megan

  I won't be at the classes, but I will be in town!!

Cheers,


R.Carnegie@verizon.net
"Argue for your limitations, and they are yours."
             R. Bach

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 23 23:02:49 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Coral necklaces
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 13:11:10 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Folks,
Coral necklaces were apparently pretty popular in the
17th/18th/early 19th centuries.  I ordered some 'mock coral' glass beads
from Ornabead and made a choker with them, but a friend has expressed
curiosity as to whether the beads ought to be of a more uniform size
(there's some slight, but visible, variation in the size of the beads).

Has anyone seen an original coral necklace (choker, small beads) from this
period?  I've seen a few in paintings, but it's hard to tell if the beads
are all the same size or just of a fairly similar size.  I think I caught
a glimpse of an original necklace on the TV the other day, on a program
that showed the Foundlings Hospital (?), founded in the 18th c. to take
care of children born to unwed mothers, but the necklace (in a display of
items that mothers left for their children, but which weren't given to the
children) wasn't on the screen for more than a few seconds, not long
enough for me to get a good look.

Another question -- I know that coral necklaces were very commonly worn by
children in the 18th century, and were not infreqently worn by women in
the 19th century (Regency period).  Has anyone seen examples of coral
necklaces worn by grown women in the 17th or 18th centuries?  I _think_
they were, but am looking for a little confirmation.

Thanks,
Mara


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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 projects
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 10:59:13 -0800
Status: RO

Also for those in Sacramento, Theatre 37 at the American River College will
be covering the Elizabethan corset for 9 weeks next semester.  Gail Russel
is the instructor, a lovely lady.  Course will meet on Thursday nights in
the costume shop.  Corsets will be drafted from scratch.

Lisa


----- Original Message -----
From: "MaryAnn Jones" <mabse@attbi.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 projects


> I have to tell you that I had the same problem.  I needed to fit an
> Elizabethan corset and I was paralyzed by this and couldn't do any sewing
> because I was so stuck.  I went to Stephen's sewing day at the library
that
> he had talked about on this list with the intent of cutting out my
sister's
> gown that she is going to wear on January 11th and I haven't started and
> ended up having him fit Margo's corset pattern on me.  I now have a corset
> pattern that fits and I can move on.
> So, if you are in the Sacramento area, I suggest asking Stephen.  He
really
> knows his stuff.  Otherwise, he is teaching that internet class on
> Elizabethan underwear.  Good luck, maryann
>



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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 13:36:02 -0500
Status: RO

        All I know about coral necklaces is the ones made from branch
coral that everyone wore in the 50's in south Florida.  My grandmother
had a coral pendant that was pink polished coral surrounded by diamonds
and was made for her in the very early 1900's.  

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 13:49:44 -0500
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This message is in MIME format.  Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

----__JNP_000_064d.0718.094e
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Horrors! Did I really write <<All I know about coral necklaces is the
ones>>  I know that is horribly incorrect.  All I know about coral
necklaces is that the ones, or All I know about coral necklaces are the
ones.  Neither sounds good, but "is the ones"  is awful.   Sorry!!!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
----__JNP_000_064d.0718.094e
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii  
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bottomMargin=3D0 leftMargin=3D3 topMargin=3D0 rightMargin=3D3>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Horrors! Did I really write &lt;&lt;All I know about coral necklaces =
is the=20
ones&gt;&gt;&nbsp; I know that is horribly incorrect.&nbsp; All I know =
about=20
coral necklaces <U>is that</U> the ones, or All I know about coral =
necklaces=20
<U>are</U> the ones.&nbsp; Neither sounds good, but "is the ones"&nbsp; is=
=20
awful.&nbsp;&nbsp; Sorry!!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Lalah<BR>Never give up, Never surrender<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

----__JNP_000_064d.0718.094e--

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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 13:32:24 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

At http://merchants-medieval.com/cockerel/

Enjoy,

Drea


On Thu, 19 Dec 2002 lilinah@earthlink.net wrote:

> The chopine and/or patten blanks sound interesting, but I cannot find
> the original message in the thread:
> "Chopine blanks for sale!"
>
> Where are they they available?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Anahita
> _______________________________________________
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From: MaryAnn Jones <mabse@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2003 projects
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 09:48:17 -0800
Status: RO

your  projects sound extremely interesting.   I am still at the Elizabethan 
stage which seems to be the entre into historical costumes for a lot of 
people, although I am ready to go down to Santa Cruz and hear Robin's 
lecture RIGHT NOW.
I have to tell you that I had the same problem.  I needed to fit an 
Elizabethan corset and I was paralyzed by this and couldn't do any sewing 
because I was so stuck.  I went to Stephen's sewing day at the library that 
he had talked about on this list with the intent of cutting out my sister's 
gown that she is going to wear on January 11th and I haven't started and 
ended up having him fit Margo's corset pattern on me.  I now have a corset 
pattern that fits and I can move on.
So, if you are in the Sacramento area, I suggest asking Stephen.  He really 
knows his stuff.  Otherwise, he is teaching that internet class on 
Elizabethan underwear.  Good luck, maryann

At 05:49 PM 12/21/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Well, for 2003 i'm going to cook fewer SCA feasts (between Nov 2001 and 
>Sept 2002 i cooked 5 feasts all of historically accurate food for 90 to 
>150 people). I'm only cooking two in 2003.
>
>This way i'll have more time for:
>
>1) Learning to embroider, especially focusing on Mamluk embroidery, then 
>embroidering on the two re-created Mamluk linen tunics i've made and on 
>the legs of a pair of linen sirwal. Of course, i don't expect to finish 
>all this in 2003, but at least i can get it planned and started.
>
>2) Making paper patterns from the first couple of 16th c. Persian 
>prototype/test garments i made in 2002. Each was made from a different 
>fabric width (i rip my modern fabrics to more historical fabric widths), 
>so i need to make patterns for each.
>
>Then i have to finish the qaba' i have cut out and partially sewn - i 
>really goofed and cut out 4 gores facing the same way. Once i do that, i 
>have to make a paper pattern from it...
>
>And finally in this set, i have to make another set of 16th c. Persian 
>garments using the fancy fabric cowering in a corner of my closet.
>
>3) Making a prototype/test 16th c. Ottoman Turkish outfit by January 4th 
>for an SCA event. If i get some of it done, and it's even close to what i 
>want, then i'll spend some time this year making an "improved" outfit. I 
>also dream of embroidering my gomlek - although i have only some not very 
>detailed paintings to go on - it appears there was embroidery along or 
>near seams and down the tops of the sleeves. Not sure what embroidery 
>technique was used - i know some of the stitches that the Ottomans used, 
>but i'm not sure which were on the gomlek.
>
>4) Making some Near Eastern shoes - i have a whole book in French on those 
>found in Egypt with some pretty good pictures and i can read French). And 
>maybe even a pair of red leather stockings - i keep reading that Ottoman 
>Turks wore leather stockings, so i'm going to have to figure out what the 
>authors really mean...
>
>5) And now for something completely different: making a new Elizabethan 
>"corset", if i can find someone with some experience to help me. I 
>understand the basics, but it's darned hard to fit oneself all alone...
>
>Nothing as ambitious as some folks' plans, but i try to be realistic, and 
>honestly i'll be pleased if i achieve 3 of the above.
>
>al-Sayyida Anahita bint 'abd al-Karim al-Fassi
>_______________________________________________
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 11:55:53 -0500
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I was wondering if anyone was going to any of the Williamsburg Textile
Institute classes in mid-January?  I tried to sign up for the pattern
drafting one but that one was full, so am taking "Decorative Fringes" 1,2,
and 3.
-Megan

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miniatures -- how worn?
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 17:12:09 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
I have seen a late 18th century dress where there was tied a wide silk
ribbon round the waist with a miniature painting in the middle. I think it
was 1785-90 not sure, and about men i have no idea, but would surely like to
know this.
Were they having their loved ones in a jewellry carried in a chain, but worn
in the pocket? I have never seen any mens jewellry with miniature paintings.

Bjarne

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 2:55 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Miniatures -- how worn?


> How were miniatures worn in the 18th c. (or for that matter, in the 16th
> and 17th)?  I've seen some worn by women on ribbons around the neck,
> either as a choker or as a looser pendant on a thin string, which is then
> pinned to the gown at the breast; but can't recall any pictures of men
> wearing miniatures.  Yet they had to have had them -- were they carrying
> them in their pockets on something like a watch fob arrangement?
>
> -- Mara
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 14:07:55 +0000
Status: RO

Don't know about men, but one of Joseph Wright of Derby's portraits (Sarah Carver and her Daughter) shows the sitter wearing a miniature just like a wristwatch, on a black ribbon. (That's mid -18th century)



>>> lindo@Radix.Net 12/23/02 01:55pm >>>
How were miniatures worn in the 18th c. (or for that matter, in the 16th
and 17th)?  I've seen some worn by women on ribbons around the neck,
either as a choker or as a looser pendant on a thin string, which is then
pinned to the gown at the breast; but can't recall any pictures of men
wearing miniatures.  Yet they had to have had them -- were they carrying
them in their pockets on something like a watch fob arrangement?

-- Mara

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress diary loosegown
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 21:21:36 -0800
Status: RO

Deredere,

	If you don't have enough gold lace, or want more you might try Wuerzburg.
When I was in Drachenwald, we found a trim store not far from the main
cathedral, and a few streets up from the river.  They had been supplying
lace and trim to the Prince Bishop Electors since about 1800.  They still
had hand made gold lace from about 1850 in a large drawer at not impossible
prices.  I picked up a meter of 6 inch wide lace because it was simply
beautiful, as a going away present for myself.  They also had some of the
most wonderful metallic trims and would twist cording up to rope size in any
color you wanted to buy or supply them with.
	Sorry I don't know the name of the place, but you might contact Master
Terafan Greydragon at
www.greydragon.com , he may well know.

Regina Romsey

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 6:03 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress diary loosegown


Deredere, the gown is lovely!
And please, don't worry about the spelling...your meaning is quite
clear, and I have *no* doubt that your English is a h@ll of a lot better
than my German!
--sue

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
>
> Ippie!!
>
> I have more pictures, and still a lot to do...
> But now it gives an idea of how it is going to look when it is finished
> :-) .
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html
>
> Just don't look at the spelling ;-) , I know it is terrible.
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coral necklace
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 00:29:11 -0800
Status: RO

I was given a short necklace of branch coral in an orangey-red color.  It is 
about 18" long and graduated from 6mm chips up to 1.5" twigs(that's what 
they look like).  I really don't like it all by itself, but I'm not sure 
what to take it apart and remake it into.  If there are references to this 
kind of coral being used in period jewelry I'd love to check them out and 
see what can be done with it and still see use.  I rarely wear modern 
jewelry so it makes more sense to make it period.  Of course, then I need a 
new dress and some shoes...Oops, out loud voice.  ;)



Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!




>There is a parure, or whole set, of coral jewelry pictured in Revolution in
>Fashion.  (It includes a branch coral tiara that I would just about die 
>for,
>but, I believe, a necklace and bracelet as well, and I think there is a
>close-up.)
>Ann Wass


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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 09:46:33 +0100
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--------------010201050105030005060500
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Thanks!

This lace is really hard to get here in the Netherlands!
Tey only sell the jackie cheepstuff.
I know Terafan and I will ask him.

Greetings,
        Deredere

Wanda Pease wrote:

>Deredere,
>
>	If you don't have enough gold lace, or want more you might try Wuerzburg.
>When I was in Drachenwald, we found a trim store not far from the main
>cathedral, and a few streets up from the river.  They had been supplying
>lace and trim to the Prince Bishop Electors since about 1800.  They still
>had hand made gold lace from about 1850 in a large drawer at not impossible
>prices.  I picked up a meter of 6 inch wide lace because it was simply
>beautiful, as a going away present for myself.  They also had some of the
>most wonderful metallic trims and would twist cording up to rope size in any
>color you wanted to buy or supply them with.
>	Sorry I don't know the name of the place, but you might contact Master
>Terafan Greydragon at
>www.greydragon.com , he may well know.
>
>Regina Romsey
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
>Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
>Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 6:03 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress diary loosegown
>
>
>Deredere, the gown is lovely!
>And please, don't worry about the spelling...your meaning is quite
>clear, and I have *no* doubt that your English is a h@ll of a lot better
>than my German!
>--sue
>
>Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
>  
>
>>Ippie!!
>>
>>I have more pictures, and still a lot to do...
>>But now it gives an idea of how it is going to look when it is finished
>>:-) .
>>http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html
>>
>>Just don't look at the spelling ;-) , I know it is terrible.
>>    
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>


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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
  <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1">
  <title></title>
</head>
<body>
Thanks!<br>
<br>
This lace is really hard to get here in the Netherlands!<br>
Tey only sell the jackie cheepstuff.<br>
I know Terafan and I will ask him.<br>
<br>
Greetings,<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere<br>
<br>
Wanda Pease wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite"
 cite="midHGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCKEEJFMAA.wandap@hevanet.com">
  <pre wrap="">Deredere,

	If you don't have enough gold lace, or want more you might try Wuerzburg.
When I was in Drachenwald, we found a trim store not far from the main
cathedral, and a few streets up from the river.  They had been supplying
lace and trim to the Prince Bishop Electors since about 1800.  They still
had hand made gold lace from about 1850 in a large drawer at not impossible
prices.  I picked up a meter of 6 inch wide lace because it was simply
beautiful, as a going away present for myself.  They also had some of the
most wonderful metallic trims and would twist cording up to rope size in any
color you wanted to buy or supply them with.
	Sorry I don't know the name of the place, but you might contact Master
Terafan Greydragon at
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.greydragon.com">www.greydragon.com</a> , he may well know.

Regina Romsey

-----Original Message-----
From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com">h-costume-admin@indra.com</a> [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com">mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com</a>]On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 6:03 PM
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</a>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress diary loosegown


Deredere, the gown is lovely!
And please, don't worry about the spelling...your meaning is quite
clear, and I have *no* doubt that your English is a h@ll of a lot better
than my German!
--sue

Deredere &amp; Owen Iskander wrote:
  </pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">Ippie!!

I have more pictures, and still a lot to do...
But now it gives an idea of how it is going to look when it is finished
:-) .
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html">http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html</a>

Just don't look at the spelling ;-) , I know it is terrible.
    </pre>
  </blockquote>
  <pre wrap=""><!---->_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 00:48:04 -0800
Status: RO

marcus findlay-arthur wrote:
>Sounds fab Anahita!
>
>Lots of work tho' hehehe.

Thank you for your enthusiasm :-)

>  > 1) Learning to embroider, especially focusing on Mamluk embroidery,
>  > then embroidering on the two re-created Mamluk linen tunics i've made
>  > and on the legs of a pair of linen sirwal. Of course, i don't expect to
>  > finish all this in 2003, but at least i can get it planned and started.
>
>What stitches are you planning to execute and have you had any ideas of
>the thread you'll use or design you'll recreate?

The Mamluks ruled Egypt and the Levant from about 1250 to the end of 
SCA period, which is 1600 (i don't recall if i mentioned this), even 
though the area was conquered by the Ottoman Turks in 1517 - the 
Mamluk were left in control as "governors" and remained in that role 
for quite some time until they decided to rebel against the Ottoman 
Empire - i forget exactly when that was - late 17th c., i think. 
Anyway, the rebellion failed and actual Ottoman governors took over.

The surviving garments and textile fragments with embroidery on them 
are linen with silk embroidery thread. The Mamluks used quite a few 
different stitches.

One stitch is double running stitch, aka blackwork - commonly found 
on Mamluk textiles, appearing well before it appears in Europe. 
Marianne Ellis, who wrote an important book on Mamluk (and perhaps 
Fatimid and Ayyubid) embroidery in the Ashmolean collection, thinks 
that some European blackwork patterns are direct descendents of 
Mamluk embroidery.

Another common stitch is pattern darning. There are also a couple 
kinds of "pulled thread" work and "drawn thread" work which i hope to 
learn soon. And there are some other dense counted thread stitches 
which fill up small spaces. And they even embroidered tiny tassels 
onto some of their garments. This is not an extensive catalog, as 
there are other stitches that i don't recall.

>Thats pretty authentic ripping the fabric widths.
>You'll have too come over to  Europe for a sewing clutch to promote
>Middle Eastern & Asian awareness here.

Well, i figure it gives me better insight into creating clothing 
patterns if i work with my fabrics in widths close to theirs - in 
Mamluk time and regions, fabric widths tend to be around 23 to 27 
inches.

>  >  And maybe even a pair of red leather stockings - i keep reading that
>  > Ottoman Turks wore leather stockings, so i'm going to have to figure
>  > out what the authors really mean...
>
>Leather stockings sounds rather study.But wildly interesting - I wonder
>how long they were,any ideas?Possibly cut as Elizabethan hose/stockings
>were and shaped to the leg and foot?

Well, i suspect that what one author is calling "leather stockings" 
is what another author is calling "soft leather boots". These were 
worn indoors. To go out, one pulled sturdier boots with stiffer 
thicker soles on right over one's indoor footwear, even indoor shoes.

If they are in fact the "soft leather boots", they can vary in 
height. For women i think they come near the top of the calf or to 
just below the knee. For men, they could go just over the knee or 
perhaps a little up the thigh and have an extension on the front that 
comes well over the thigh and is anchored to a belt to keep them up.

Again, if the "leather stockings" are the same as "soft leather 
boots". The cut is fairly simple, much more so than Elizabethan 
hose/stockings. The leg is basically a tube with a seam up the back, 
while each foot has a sole, a part that goes over most of the foot (i 
don't know appropriate name), and 2 gussets on either side of the 
foot at the heel. They are not fitted.

There are similar silk brocade "boots" or "socks" with a leather sole 
surviving from Mughul India and late Safavid Persia. They are luxury 
items and definitely not for hard wear.

>  > 5) And now for something completely different: making a new Elizabethan
>  > "corset", if i can find someone with some experience to help me. I
>  > understand the basics, but it's darned hard to fit oneself all alone...
>
>Margo and Drea!!!
>Founts of information!!! Wildly helpful the pair of them.

Well, indeed they are - i have Drea's 16th c. Flemish woman's 
clothing book and Margo's Elizabethan woman's pattern - and i've even 
met Margo at an after Ren Fair dinner.

But i think fitting a corset really needs a second pair of hands...

>Warm Season Greetings.

And to you, too, Marcus, and to everyone on this list :-)

Anahita
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 11:57:32 +0000
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I shall be away from my computer until Jan. 7th. 
A happy Christmas to all - will talk to you again in the New Year!





Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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From: Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coral necklaces
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 12:53:44 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne,
I got my 'mock coral' beads from ornabead.com; I don't know if they ship to 
Europe.  But they're imitation coral beads, not real coral.

Were the 18th c. bead necklaces you saw all even diameters, or were they 
slightly irregular?  The beads I ordered are slightly irregular.

-- Mara


At 11:25 PM 12/23/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>Hello.
>I have seen lots of jewels with corals this summer at an exhibition at
>Christiansborg Castle, Copenhagen. It was a travelling exhibition from
>Russia. It was the red corals that most of the jewels had, there were
>tiarras, necklasses bracelets broches..............
>Some of the jewels had belonged to Emperess Catharine the Great. (18th
>century)
>In Italy (where i go every summer) they have tons and tons of these red
>corals for sale, and quite cheap.
>I know it is illegal to bring them to Denmark, and i really cant figure out
>where they get all those red corals from, it seems as if all the ocean round
>Italy was grown all over with these red corals. Does any know about where
>they get these? Most beautifull they are and they comes in several shades of
>red, from light pink to deep redish brown.
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
>To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 7:11 PM
>Subject: [h-cost] Coral necklaces
>
>
> > Folks,
> > Coral necklaces were apparently pretty popular in the
> > 17th/18th/early 19th centuries.  I ordered some 'mock coral' glass beads
> > from Ornabead and made a choker with them, but a friend has expressed
> > curiosity as to whether the beads ought to be of a more uniform size
> > (there's some slight, but visible, variation in the size of the beads).
> >
> > Has anyone seen an original coral necklace (choker, small beads) from this
> > period?  I've seen a few in paintings, but it's hard to tell if the beads
> > are all the same size or just of a fairly similar size.  I think I caught
> > a glimpse of an original necklace on the TV the other day, on a program
> > that showed the Foundlings Hospital (?), founded in the 18th c. to take
> > care of children born to unwed mothers, but the necklace (in a display of
> > items that mothers left for their children, but which weren't given to the
> > children) wasn't on the screen for more than a few seconds, not long
> > enough for me to get a good look.
> >
> > Another question -- I know that coral necklaces were very commonly worn by
> > children in the 18th century, and were not infreqently worn by women in
> > the 19th century (Regency period).  Has anyone seen examples of coral
> > necklaces worn by grown women in the 17th or 18th centuries?  I _think_
> > they were, but am looking for a little confirmation.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mara
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 18:58:27 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

Thank you all for the kind words!
It helps getting me trough many hours of hand stitching :-( .

http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/Projects/Loosegown.html

Greetings,
        Deredere


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 24 13:11:52 2002
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From: Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coral necklaces
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 12:30:30 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks, I'll dig out my copy.  Funny how I never really looked at the 
jewelry, with all the gorgeous clothing... <G>

At 02:35 PM 12/23/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>There is a parure, or whole set, of coral jewelry pictured in Revolution 
>in Fashion.  (It includes a branch coral tiara that I would just about die 
>for, but, I believe, a necklace and bracelet as well, and I think there is 
>a close-up.)
>Ann Wass

Kevin + Mara Riley

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 24 15:31:34 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coral necklaces
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 15:32:33 EST
Status: RO

Helloo--yes!!--coral is making a comeback in more modern jewelry circles 
these days.As it is a personal favorite of mine---I've been delighted to 
notice this:) The modern trade books often show it paired with tourquise and 
silver. A very striking combo I think.  I have also seen it paired with gold 
and pearls. 
And yes, there, IS reason to believe  that it has gone in and out of fashion 
thru out history:) The already mentioned parure from Regency times---as well 
as a few portraits from the 16th century---usually in rounded bead form--with 
a few exceptions(again the parure comes to mind) Take a look at some of the 
portraits from the 16th century  time period--(Sofonisba Anguissola--comes to 
mind--just 'cause I have her book in my hand right now!! In particular her 
portraits 'The Chess Game' and the 'Three Children')--and the Turks were also 
fond of it.Some years ago there was a lovely exhibit at the LA County Museum 
of Art---of Turkish treasures from the Ottoman Empire---and there (dated in 
year ranges from the 16th century), combined with silver filigree designs 
were a couple of exquisite litle belt clasps , combining pale peach coral 
beads with tourquise ones.There were also necklaces and 
bracelettes--including these combinations---also some with gold---I for some 
reason do not recall the earring designs:(
I got so frusterated trying to find the jewelry that I 'craved' to go with my 
Regency outfits and 16th century stuff ---(my 2 favorite periods)that I 
started making my own. It's not terribly hard---and lots of fun!
Cheers and Best--
Albra
(slipping back into 'cloaking device':)
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Coral necklaces
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 15:52:59 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 24 Dec 2002 AlbraKat@aol.com wrote:

> Helloo--yes!!--coral is making a comeback in more modern jewelry
> circles these days.As it is a personal favorite of mine---I've been
> delighted to notice this:) The modern trade books often show it paired
> with tourquise and silver.

I am seeing quite a bit coral in my bead supply catalogs and at bead
shops. Often it is dyed. There's also artifical coral. I have been
hesitant to buy the real thing because I seem to recall hearing recently
about overfishing (mining?) of coral beds and other destruction from
pollution, vandals, etc. that has put these remarkable creatures into
peril of extinction in many areas. I would appreciate solid information on
whether this is indeed the case, as I would not encourage the purchase of
new coral for jewelry if it would support the market. As near as I know,
coral cannot be "farmed" as pearls are, but I haven't researched the issue
and would be happy to be educated.

Vintage/used coral is another matter entirely.

--Robin


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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 14:36:06 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:25 PM +0100 12/23/02, Bjarne wrote:
>Hello.
>I have seen lots of jewels with corals this summer at an exhibition at
>Christiansborg Castle, Copenhagen. It was a travelling exhibition from
>Russia. It was the red corals that most of the jewels had, there were
>tiarras, necklasses bracelets broches..............
>Some of the jewels had belonged to Emperess Catharine the Great. (18th
>century)
>In Italy (where i go every summer) they have tons and tons of these red
>corals for sale, and quite cheap.
>I know it is illegal to bring them to Denmark, and i really cant figure out
>where they get all those red corals from, it seems as if all the ocean round
>Italy was grown all over with these red corals. Does any know about where
>they get these? Most beautifull they are and they comes in several shades of
>red, from light pink to deep redish brown.

I believe that corals in general are considered endangered species 
(though possibly not all of them, and not everywhere). I know I have 
gotten disapproving looks on occasion when I have mentioned using 
real coral beads for some of my period rosary reproductions. That may 
be why it's not legal to bring red coral into Denmark. I believe that 
precious black coral is especially endangered, and is illegal to sell 
in some places. (Mind you, I think protecting endangered species is a 
_good_ thing.)

Also, one reason there is so much red coral for sale is that I 
believe a lot of it is dyed. As long as the coral has good structure 
(i.e. is firm, not spongy, and relatively free of flaws), it can be 
bleached and then dyed any color. Species of coral that are pink or 
salmon color can also easily be dyed red without bleaching. 
Personally I'm quite willing to use dyed coral (as long as I know 
that's what it is), since I believe that results in less pressure on 
the more endangered species, or at least so I hope.  But a lot of 
stuff is sold with no information about whether the color is natural.

Coral substitutes that I'm aware of are mostly not as close to the 
real thing in "feel" as I would like. Glass and dyed marble can be 
very close to coral in color, but are harder and quite a bit heavier 
than coral (coral is only about the same hardness as bone). I've also 
seen dyed bone, which in theory could be a good coral substitute, but 
all I've seen has been very crude and poorly crafted. OTOH I use 
coral-colored glass seed beads quite happily, since in those uses the 
weight doesn't make much difference.

Coral has been thought to be "lucky" and to protect the wearer 
(especially children) from evil spirits. In medieval contexts it's an 
expensive and high-status stone -- based on the rosaries I've seen 
[1], I'd estimate that it ranks higher than carnelian, jet, or amber, 
and not very far below rock crystal or silver. [2] Both luck and 
ostentation are among the reasons coral has been so popular for 
rosaries and paternosters. :))

Coral has especially been considered protective for babies and small 
children. You see quite a few children's or Madonna-and-child 
portraits where the infant Jesus is wearing a small coral necklace. 
Princely and wealthy babies have also been given unworked branches of 
coral mounted in silver as teething gifts. (The unworked "raw" state 
is suppoosed to make it more powerful.)

Most of the medieval and Renaissance uses of coral I've seen are 
shaped and finished beads, almost always plain round beads of various 
sizes. I've also seen a few cylindrical beads (can't recall sources 
or dates offhand), slightly flattened rounds, and lots of seed beads. 
About the only time I've seen "branch" coral in jewelry is as a 
single piece used as a pendant to a necklace or rosary. I think that 
the fashion for whole necklaces of "branches" (or "frangia") is 
modern, on a par with the modern liking for necklaces of "chips" of 
semiprecious stones. (Especially amber -- I recently bought two 
strings of 6mm amber at a bead show simply because it's so rare to 
find _round_ amber at a reasonable price.)

-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________

[1]  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/paternosters , if anyone's 
interested in learning more about rosaries and paternosters.

[2] It seems to be a rule of thumb that if a rosary has "gauds" or 
"paters" (larger beads on which the "Our Father" prayer is said) that 
are of a different material than the smaller "ave" beads, the "pater" 
bead material is more expensive or precious, i.e. wood aves with 
jasper or carnelian paters, jet aves with silver paters, lapis lazuli 
aves with gold paters -- which enables one to make educated guesses 
about the relative status of different materials. There seem to be an 
awful lot of pictures of rosaries with coral aves and silver or rock 
crystal paters.
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 14:54:22 -0800
Status: RO


>Does anyone have any good tests or clues on identifying the metal used in
>a metallic fabric?
>
>The fabric in question is sheer and woven in one direction in gold. The
>threads in the other direction are probably either silk or rayon. The bolt
>is very heavy. The metal doesn't burn or melt. (This is what I am told. I
>haven't yet seen the fabric.)
>
>Any ideas on where to start in identifying the metal -- e.g. chemical
>tests -- and assessing the value? Has anyone seen anything like this for
>sale online I could compare it to?

In my experience, the metal component is something like gold-plated, or 
silver-plated, copper.  I did a burn test on a swatch of something of mine, 
and the original metal-colour disappeared, leaving only copper-coloured 
stuff, which I assumed was the wire underneath the plating.

Consider the price of the fabric if the wire were solid gold?  And consider 
the tensile strength of copper wire vs. that of gold.  I think they plate 
the strong stuff with the expensive stuff.

Vinegar will remove the tarnish from copper, and gold-plated brass costume 
jewelry brightens right up when dipped, briefly, in ammonia (don't know 
why, not a chemist).  Rinse well after dipping stuff in either one.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Identifying metal in fabric
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 14:58:59 -0800
Status: RO


>Gold/not gold would be a good start. The goal is to figure out how much
>the stuff is worth, so we can price it fairly.

If it's solid gold 'threads' one way, they will be very soft and will break 
easily.  I stick by my gold-plated-copper theory.

>I don't even have a clue whether there's a name for this type of fabric,
>other than "metallic." "Cloth-of-gold" probably isn't right from a
>historic sense, even if it's real gold. But I also don't know what might
>be sold under that name today.
>
>Is there a name for fabric woven of metal threads?

Cloth of gold.  It came in colours, due to the colour of the thread woven 
across the metal threads.  I own some purple cloth-of-silver.  It got 
folded and I'm not sure if I will ever get the fold lines out of the metal 
threads.



Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 model for Simplicity pattern
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 15:16:46 -0800
Status: RO


>Yes, but the idea was not to pick colors that "look good" on someone by 
>our modern standards, rather, the idea is to look as fashionable as you 
>can afford and as your social status will allow.
>
>If anyone does historical re-creation costuming and worries about picking 
>colors that look good on them by modern standards is not quite doing 
>historical re-creation.
>
>Now i understand that if someone is spending large sums of money on fabric 
>and huge blocks of time on a "costume" they want it to look good on them. 
>So of course we make compromises, unless we are really trying to re-create 
>as closely as possible a surviving garment or one in a painting.

I sort-of disagree with you.  On the one hand, their ideas of good colour 
combinations don't always agree with our ideas, for whatever century or 
decade 'they' live in.  On the other hand, certainly from among the colour 
choices they made, one can pick one that is more flattering than the 
others.  One can copy a dress from a painting, but research other possible 
colour choices from the same period, to find a different accurate one more 
flattering to ones self when one makes the re-creation for ones' own use.


Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] metallic organza
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 21:48:39 -0800
Status: RO

So I went to

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-bridal---special-occasion-metallic-silk-organza.html

and found that the stuff labeled 14karat is the same price as the blue 
metallic, the pink metallic, etc.  And they all drape the same in the 
pictures.  I cannot believe that the one labeled 14karat would go for less 
than $10 per yard if it was really solid 14karat gold wires in one 
direction.  They could melt it and sell it for more than that if it really 
were.  I still like my it's-gold-plated theory.

Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Katya/Turmeric dye
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 12:48:40 +0000
Status: RO

Morning Katya,

Merry Christmas to you and yours as I write on 'Xmas morning.

I'm planning to experiment with your hint using turmeric to dye with in 
the New Year - since I'm moving mid January and likely to be off line 
for a month can you pass on any tips about this?That way I can amuse 
myself before I resubscribe and refer to my print-outs as I muddle thru'.

I'm thinking of dying some cotton muslin and silk to make dhoti's and 
shawls with a wax & dye over pattern based on some 16thC Mughal 
miniatures I've been studying.

Thanks,

Marcus.

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From: marcus findlay-arthur <mangal.kalima@virgin.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mamluk embroidery
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 13:12:58 +0000
Status: RO



> The surviving garments and textile fragments with embroidery on them 
> are linen with silk embroidery thread. The Mamluks used quite a few 
> different stitches.

Interesting.I've seen examples of woven wool circa the 5thC from Egypt 
and I was quite blown away by the skill inherently displayed.
>
> One stitch is double running stitch, aka blackwork - commonly found on 
> Mamluk textiles, appearing well before it appears in Europe. Marianne 
> Ellis, who wrote an important book on Mamluk (and perhaps Fatimid and 
> Ayyubid) embroidery in the Ashmolean collection, thinks that some 
> European blackwork patterns are direct descendents of Mamluk embroidery.

Anything is possible.And the Crusades certainly did a good bit of 
horizon expanding.
>
> Another common stitch is pattern darning. There are also a couple kinds 
> of "pulled thread" work and "drawn thread" work which i hope to learn 
> soon. And there are some other dense counted thread stitches which fill 
> up small spaces. And they even embroidered tiny tassels onto some of 
> their garments. This is not an extensive catalog, as there are other 
> stitches that i don't recall.

Very interesting.A friend in Israel at one time was buying Palestinian 
garments and cutting out the embroidered bibs to have made into cushion 
covers.I actually got see some of the work.I've been told that the 
embroidery is something of a family heirloom and is handed down and 
re-stitched to more current/new garments.

> Well, i figure it gives me better insight into creating clothing 
> patterns if i work with my fabrics in widths close to theirs - in 
> Mamluk time and regions, fabric widths tend to be around 23 to 27 
> inches.

Guys weren't the 18thC Spittelfields silks woven on a 28" loom width?Or 
are my memory banks having another senior moment?

> Well, i suspect that what one author is calling "leather stockings" is 
> what another author is calling "soft leather boots". These were worn 
> indoors. To go out, one pulled sturdier boots with stiffer thicker 
> soles on right over one's indoor footwear, even indoor shoes.

Fab.
>
> If they are in fact the "soft leather boots", they can vary in height. 
> For women i think they come near the top of the calf or to just below 
> the knee. For men, they could go just over the knee or perhaps a little 
> up the thigh and have an extension on the front that comes well over 
> the thigh and is anchored to a belt to keep them up.

Sort of like 'ties'?
>
> Again, if the "leather stockings" are the same as "soft leather boots". 
> The cut is fairly simple, much more so than Elizabethan hose/stockings. 
> The leg is basically a tube with a seam up the back, while each foot 
> has a sole, a part that goes over most of the foot (i don't know 
> appropriate name), and 2 gussets on either side of the foot at the 
> heel. They are not fitted.

Sounds almost like Tibetan or Mongolian examples I've read of or seen 
pictures of.
>
> There are similar silk brocade "boots" or "socks" with a leather sole 
> surviving from Mughul India and late Safavid Persia. They are luxury 
> items and definitely not for hard wear.

I drew the conclusion that such footwear as one found in the Mughal 
miniatures were more along two lines of thought,the practical and status 
indicator.The latter not intended to be worn for very extended periods 
of time possibly.

> Well, indeed they are - i have Drea's 16th c. Flemish woman's clothing 
> book and Margo's Elizabethan woman's pattern - and i've even met Margo 
> at an after Ren Fair dinner.

I didn't know Drea had written a book.Cool.
As yet I've only ever met Drea and quite by chance too,but Margo was a 
champ when I was fighting with an Elizabethan jerkin for a pal with an 
expanding waistline while I was trying to make the thing up!(its still 
in storage and unfinished.)
>
> But i think fitting a corset really needs a second pair of hands...

Heheheee
Absolutely.Not having another pair around to help me with my garb 
attempts results in some curiously breathless contortions,innumerable 
pin punctures - living sacrifice to the sewing god.

You project sounds fab - good luck with it over next year.Any chance of 
pics?

Marcus.

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Subject: Re:[h-cost] metallic organza
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 08:07:58 -0500
Status: RO

on 12/25/02 7:18 AM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] metallic organza
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> So I went to
> 
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-bridal
> ---special-occasion-metallic-silk-organza.html
> 
> and found that the stuff labeled 14karat is the same price as the blue
> metallic, the pink metallic, etc.  And they all drape the same in the
> pictures.  I cannot believe that the one labeled 14karat would go for less
> than $10 per yard if it was really solid 14karat gold wires in one
> direction.  They could melt it and sell it for more than that if it really
> were.  I still like my it's-gold-plated theory.
14 karat was the color name of that specific piece. in the picture it's a
pale gold.
laurie 
> Kayta
> 
> //// \\\
> ////-@@\\\
> ((((   7 )))
> (((  <> ))))
> )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> 
> --__--__--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 25 08:47:38 2002
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] metallic organza
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 13:51:06 -0000
Status: RO

Kayta wrote:

>  I cannot believe that the one labeled 14karat would go for less
> than $10 per yard if it was really solid 14karat gold wires in one
> direction.  They could melt it and sell it for more than that if it
really
> were.  I still like my it's-gold-plated theory.

If there were any gold in it at all it would not go for that price. I
wishe it were otherwise, on this Xmas afternoon:-)

best wishes to all
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 25 19:54:38 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Book "The Opulent Era" on eBay
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 04:14:41 -0500
Status: RO


--------------6F1F21A39C1B0D8F66FACBA6
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The oop book "The Opulent Era" is up on eBay right now
& (so far) the price is pretty reasonable.
This is a way, *way* gorgeous book (I think it's an
exhibition catalog?), with utterly sublime color plates
& obscure, valuable information about the House of Worth
& Pingat & several other Victorian-era couturiers.
HIGHLY recommend to anyone interested in Victorian-Edwardian costume.
I'm not selling this, but I thought I'd point it out.
Anyone who has seen it can vouch...it's a beaut of a book,
definitely worth your book-buying dollar if this era
interests you..
Ciao,
~Lisa
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20298&item=2801035946




--------------6F1F21A39C1B0D8F66FACBA6
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
The oop book "The Opulent Era" is up on eBay right now
<br>&amp; (so far) the price is pretty reasonable.
<br>This is a way, *way* gorgeous book (I think it's an
<br>exhibition catalog?), with utterly sublime color plates
<br>&amp; obscure, valuable information about the House of Worth
<br>&amp; Pingat &amp; several other Victorian-era couturiers.
<br>HIGHLY recommend to anyone interested in Victorian-Edwardian costume.
<br>I'm not selling this, but I thought I'd point it out.
<br>Anyone who has seen it can vouch...it's a beaut of a book,
<br>definitely worth your book-buying dollar if this era
<br>interests you..
<br>Ciao,
<br>~Lisa
<br>&nbsp;<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20298&item=2801035946">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=20298&amp;item=2801035946</a>
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------6F1F21A39C1B0D8F66FACBA6--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Dec 25 19:55:12 2002
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From: Marsha Hamilton <mjh@pearlandplume.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Pearl drop earrings
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 02:02:53 -0500
Status: RO

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3123453773_2788863_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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If you're still looking for pearl drop earrings, I'm making several styles
that I've been selling at art shows.  If any fit your needs, e-mail for
details.  Prices for earrings shown are $40. and under.   All are quality
material--vermeil, sterling, gold-fill and gold-plate, freshwater & cultured
baroque pearls, garnets, amethysts, aquamarine, etc.  Let me know if
attachment can't be viewed.  I'm using new software and haven't worked out
the bugs with attachments yet.

Marsha J. Hamilton
The Pearl and Plume
mjh@pearlandplume.com







--MS_Mac_OE_3123453773_2788863_MIME_Part
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 18:20:36 -0700
Status: RO

Not me, dear! Historical costuming, as much as anything except maybe
blackwork (and related needle-cousins) *is* my specialty.  Or at least,
my primary interest.
This list is a life-saver and a sanity-saver for me, and part of that
comes from the wonderful variety of opinions and abilities and interests
that are expressed in the various posts.  This variety is precisely
*why* I joined the list, and why I'm still here, whether I agree with
everyone or not! <g>
I may "play" primarily in a pre-17th c. group, but I love being able to
vicariously play in other "days," by drooling over Bjarne's amazing
confections, or Nicole's 17th c. stuff, or the lovely descriptions of
19th c. clothes....
I guess I just love fabric, and playing with it, no matter what I'm
making with it.
Glad you're all here.  Hope you're all having a nice winter holiday!
--sue

Penny, you wrote:
> >I am surprised on how the membership has dropped.  Years ago there were
> >about 800 members.  I guess with all various costume lists people went into
> >their our specialty.
> >
> >Penny Ladnier
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metallic organza
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 20:37:31 -0800
Status: RO

It looks like that 14K is not the metal value, but the "color" name.  How 
much "antique" silver would they have available for that color?



Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!




>So I went to
>
>http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-bridal---special-occasion-metallic-silk-organza.html
>
>and found that the stuff labeled 14karat is the same price as the blue 
>metallic, the pink metallic, etc.  And they all drape the same in the 
>pictures.  I cannot believe that the one labeled 14karat would go for less 
>than $10 per yard if it was really solid 14karat gold wires in one 
>direction.

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Katya/Turmeric dye
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 00:58:59 -0800
Status: RO


>I'm planning to experiment with your hint using turmeric to dye with in 
>the New Year - since I'm moving mid January and likely to be off line for 
>a month can you pass on any tips about this?That way I can amuse myself 
>before I resubscribe and refer to my print-outs as I muddle thru'.
>
>I'm thinking of dying some cotton muslin and silk to make dhoti's and 
>shawls with a wax & dye over pattern based on some 16thC Mughal miniatures 
>I've been studying.

I made an infusion of one small grocery store jar of turmeric in a couple 
of gallons of hot water, then dumped the wet cloth in it and boiled it a 
while.  Since the turmeric didn't dissolve, there was a gritty residue to 
rinse out afterwards.

The results weren't all that striking on the linen I used, and I had no 
idea if it needed a mordant, so I didn't use one.  I suspect I could have 
gotten some spectacular results had I tried this on wool, or if I'd used 
less water or less fabric.

I'm not much of a dyer.  I learned most of what I know about dyestuffs from 
a US Department of Agriculture satin removal pamphlet, on the theory that a 
stain is dye in the wrong place.

Kayta

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: authentic colour choices, was Re: [h-cost] Fashion plate dress 1851 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 20:17:14 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> >Now i understand that if someone is spending large sums of money on fabric 
> >and huge blocks of time on a "costume" they want it to look good on them. 
> >So of course we make compromises, unless we are really trying to re-create 
> >as closely as possible a surviving garment or one in a painting.
> 
> I sort-of disagree with you.  

I disagree as well and agree with Kayta. Now when I spend hundreds of pounds on
fabric on a dress and I can choose between several perfectly authentic colour
choices for the period, why the doodah would I choose one that doesn't suit me?
I look one-week dead in yellow, so why would I choose a yellow 1660s dress and
not a blue one, in which I look a zillion times better?
Still just as authentic, but much better looking and NOT by any means a
compromise. :-)

Most people wanted and want to look good :-)))

Nicole from a rainy and not snowy German forest. *sniff*



=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:57:28 -0800
Status: RO

It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.  

Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan, but
I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
so my 6 year old decided I must have her.  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
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Subject: [h-cost] Robin Netherton Workshop Alternative
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:02:36 -0800
Status: RO

Like many others, I'm on the waiting list for Robin Neterton's workshops in
the Bay Area.  If we don't get in, does anyone want to do something else? I
was thinking of a trip to Thai Silks in Los Altos, and, for those who want
to go farther afield, a pilgrimage to Britex in San Francisco, and dinner
in Chinatown.  

Let me know if you're interested!

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:10:13 -0700
Status: RO

*You* are a Horrible Torturer! *sniff*
Some of us are too far away to do any of that...*sniff, sniff*
--sue, feeling deprived ;-D

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> Like many others, I'm on the waiting list for Robin Neterton's workshops in
> the Bay Area.  If we don't get in, does anyone want to do something else? I
> was thinking of a trip to Thai Silks in Los Altos, and, for those who want
> to go farther afield, a pilgrimage to Britex in San Francisco, and dinner
> in Chinatown.
> 
> Let me know if you're interested!
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 23:13:25 +0000
Status: RO


On Thursday, December 26, 2002, at 09:57  pm, Margo Anderson wrote:

> It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

Not a thing Margo.Not a thing.Tiresome really but am glad to hear you 
did so well!!!
Enjoy them all and think of those who got the most peculiar assortment 
of gifts,friends and family could come up with. < : >>>

Marcus.

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:03:41 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com> wrote: > It's traditional, I
always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

Almost nothing for once, makes a change! ;-)

Extended LOTR fellowship of the rings DVD 

Rohirrim shield for my Eowyn costume

Digital camera (that already arrived in October) for museums and the likes.

The rest is non-costume related *shock horror* yes I DO have a life besides
*laughs*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Dec 26 17:52:57 2002
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 23:52:46 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Margo.
Nothing costume related for me under the tree this year, i got a video tape
from Leif i wished for about the everyday life in Denmark from 1930- 1960.
You know, historically film glims of all sorts of daily related things.
But for myself i got What Clothes Reveal, the Catalog from Munic, and The
large Kyoto Costume book.
I really am pleased witht these books, especially the Kyoto Costume book is
awsome i think, and i think i will get many inspirations from this, also
colour inspirations, there are zillions of colour put togethers to choose
from..........oh and i forgot, i also baught myself paper clay, but you know
that all ready dont you!


Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

----- Original Message -----
From: "Margo Anderson" <margo@margospatterns.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 10:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?


> It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>
> I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
> Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.
>
> Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan,
but
> I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
> so my 6 year old decided I must have her.
>
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
>
>
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 18:00:25 -0500
Status: RO

LOL I have to be amused at this...I have a friend in Gaertringen 
who is pouty because I in warm, relatively snowless eastern 
Connecticut US got snow on christmas, and all he got was rain;-)

margali

N Kipar wrote:


> 
> Nicole from a rainy and not snowy German forest. *sniff*
> 
> 
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org



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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:30:03 -0700
Status: RO

We didn't get snow or rain, although it's cold.  Results of being in the
middle of a drought, I guess.  Nasty-looking dead-brown everywhere,
although the consequences during next summer (fire season) could be
really bad for timber and farming....
--Sue, in drab NW Montana....

M Traber wrote:
> 
> LOL I have to be amused at this...I have a friend in Gaertringen
> who is pouty because I in warm, relatively snowless eastern
> Connecticut US got snow on christmas, and all he got was rain;-)
> 
> margali
> 
> N Kipar wrote:
> 
> >
> > Nicole from a rainy and not snowy German forest. *sniff*
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:32:42 -0800
Status: RO

6 yards of silk plaid taffeta, in autumn tones, embroidered with golden 
brown sprays of wheat heads, destined for a Regency ball gown, if I can 
bring myself to actually cut into it.  It's beautiful enough to just frame!!

Theresa Eacker

Margo Anderson wrote:

> It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
> 
> I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
> Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.  
> 
> Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan, but
> I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
> so my 6 year old decided I must have her.  
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
> 
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 


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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:43:05 -0700
Status: RO

Oooooh...pictures?
--sue

Theresa Eacker wrote:
> 
> 6 yards of silk plaid taffeta, in autumn tones, embroidered with golden
> brown sprays of wheat heads, destined for a Regency ball gown, if I can
> bring myself to actually cut into it.  It's beautiful enough to just frame!!
> 
> Theresa Eacker
> 
> Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> > It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> > related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 18:37:55 -0500
Status: RO

i got no costuming goodies this year--but I did get a jig saw!!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Margo Anderson" <margo@margospatterns.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 4:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?


> It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>
> I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
> Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.
>
> Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan,
but
> I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
> so my 6 year old decided I must have her.
>
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
>
>
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:45:54 -0700
Status: RO

Nadda.
I got lots of other nice goodies (a copy of LoTR, a new crockpot, tea,
different kinds of chocolate, a calendar, etc.), but nothing costume or
needlework related.
I *did* get a nice, fat gift certificate to Amazon.com, though....and
was thinking of buying a nice costume-related book.  Anybody got any
suggestions?
--sue

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
> 
> I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
> Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.
> 
> Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan, but
> I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
> so my 6 year old decided I must have her.
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 18:35:11 -0500
Status: RO

        A gift certificate for JoAnn Fabrics and one for Michael's
Crafts.  Both will be used on costume stuff.  Yea!!!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:02:37 -0800
Status: RO



Theresa Eacker wrote:

> 6 yards of silk plaid taffeta, in autumn tones, embroidered with golden
> brown sprays of wheat heads, destined for a Regency ball gown, if I can
> bring myself to actually cut into it.  It's beautiful enough to just frame!!

Where was it purchased?  (That is, how can I buy some?)

Fran


--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:08:15 -0800 (PST)
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*grin*

I got Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd!

Yay Dad!

*happy dance*

now, if I can just get my hands on that Vionnet book...

.heather.


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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:21:03 -0800
Status: RO

Buckets of rain, heavy winds, more buckets of rain, a couple of "nice" 
(as in, no rain!!) days, then, here it comes again. Didn't go to a Gold 
Rush Era Christmas Dance in the foothills because of the heavy, 
wind-driven torrents. (Pooh, pooh, pooh!!)

Theresa Eacker in the SF Bay Area

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> We didn't get snow or rain, although it's cold.  Results of being in the
> middle of a drought, I guess.  Nasty-looking dead-brown everywhere,
> although the consequences during next summer (fire season) could be
> really bad for timber and farming....
> --Sue, in drab NW Montana....
> 
> M Traber wrote:
> 
>>LOL I have to be amused at this...I have a friend in Gaertringen
>>who is pouty because I in warm, relatively snowless eastern
>>Connecticut US got snow on christmas, and all he got was rain;-)
>>
>>margali
>>
>>N Kipar wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Nicole from a rainy and not snowy German forest. *sniff*
>>>
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:22:21 -0800
Status: RO

I'll talk to my husband about how to scan and post.  It'll be a new 
skill anyway!!

Theresa EAcker

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Oooooh...pictures?
> --sue
> 
> Theresa Eacker wrote:
> 
>>6 yards of silk plaid taffeta, in autumn tones, embroidered with golden
>>brown sprays of wheat heads, destined for a Regency ball gown, if I can
>>bring myself to actually cut into it.  It's beautiful enough to just frame!!
>>
>>Theresa Eacker
>>
>>Margo Anderson wrote:
>>
>>
>>>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>>>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>>>
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:28:52 -0800
Status: RO

Do you have the new book "Fashion" from the Kyoto Costume Institute, or 
  "Dress in 18c Europe" by Aileen Ribeiro?

Theresa Eacker (whose backlog of "want to have" costume books is up to 
15 by now!!!)

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Nadda.
> I got lots of other nice goodies (a copy of LoTR, a new crockpot, tea,
> different kinds of chocolate, a calendar, etc.), but nothing costume or
> needlework related.
> I *did* get a nice, fat gift certificate to Amazon.com, though....and
> was thinking of buying a nice costume-related book.  Anybody got any
> suggestions?
> --sue
> 
> Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
>>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>>
>>I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
>>Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.
>>
>>Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan, but
>>I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
>>so my 6 year old decided I must have her.
>>
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:31:32 -0800
Status: RO

Margo Anderson wrote:

>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>  
>
A monster sewing cabinet thing - one of the Koala ones that unfolds into 
a lot of work space. Bye Bye skinny little table! The sewing/weaving 
room is even clean (but don't look in the hallway). And Mom sent me some 
bucks which I spent on nice woolen yarn for some knitting.

liz

>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:31:34 -0800 (PST)
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6 year old?  Oh Margo, you're not supposed to make me feel old for 
Christmas!

.heather.


> so my 6 year old decided I must have her.  
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 19:47:15 -0500
Status: RO

At Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:57:28 -0800, Margo Anderson asked:

>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

As usual, nothing. Most of my sewing and costuming stuff I buy myself on 
odd trips to fabric stores, bookstores, and online. Most of my 
sewing/costuming stuff is the sort of thing that family and friends 
wouldn't know what to pick up (and would tend to pick up something 
absolutely dreadful and/or unusable), so it's rather better that I do the 
purchasing myself.

>I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
>Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.

Really kewl. There's some nice extras on the Elizabeth R DVD you'll want to 
look at (some photos of the costuming process, and Glenda Jackson's 
recollections of the same). Did you get the regular Shakespeare in Love or 
the Collector's Edition? I got the regular one and then three months or so 
later saw there was a Collector's Edition with lots more extras and 
interesting stuff... but I couldn't bring myself to spend the extra money 
for another copy of a flick I already *had* a copy of.

>Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan, but
>I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
>so my 6 year old decided I must have her.

Sounds *cute* :)

I got a new hard drive for my notebook -- I guess that *sort of* remotely 
relates to sewing/costuming, as I need more hard drive space to store my 
stash database and garb photos. I also got several Cherished Teddies 
figurines for my collection, some earphones I've been looking to get since 
November, and a passel of teddy bears for my hug...

What I really need for Christmas is some *time* to work on next year's 
projects!


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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From: "Rowena" <sleepyunicorn@citlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] was  authentic colour, now snow
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 20:03:18 -0500
Status: RO


> LOL I have to be amused at this...I have a friend in Gaertringen
> who is pouty because I in warm, relatively snowless eastern
> Connecticut US got snow on christmas, and all he got was rain;-)
> margali
> > Nicole from a rainy and not snowy German forest. *sniff*

I helped my Mom, up in Queensbury NY (up by Vermont), who had a snowblower
that took care of most of the 2 ft + they got.   the period last night when
we were getting 5 inches AN HOUR was interesting.  I'm not sure I have ever
before been in the orange band on the weather channel radar.
For those of you who don't know,  it starts out as blue for light, goes
through various greens, then into yellows, shading into oranges and then red
for the heaviest.
with blowing winds,   we were just happy that the power didn't go out.
Then I managed to drive (southwest) to where I live in the middle of New
York State  (about 200 miles from NYC).   And found 35 inches in my
driveway - which is 50 feet long and double wide, since normally I would
have a tenant parking on one side.
And I do not have a snowblower - haven't needed one in the past 3 years.
Finally found someone who would plow it for $50.   And I paid it.   It
turned out to be a good deal,  since there was so much snow that he had
problems moving it.
   And I do not live at all close to Buffalo (or I would be used to this!)

I would welcome Nicole to come visit from Germany, if she'll help shovel!
Rowena

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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 20:05:57 -0500
Status: RO


> --- Margo Anderson  wrote: > It's traditional, I always ask this question.
What sewing and costume
 related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

I bought myself the treadle sewing machine that Singer put out this year -
saw it on QVC, and I have always wanted one!
Rowena

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robin Netherton Workshop Alternative
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 19:42:29 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 26 Dec 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> *You* are a Horrible Torturer! *sniff*
> Some of us are too far away to do any of that...*sniff, sniff*
> --sue, feeling deprived ;-D

Sue is not allowed to feel *too* deprived. She's been to my workshop!

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 19:14:49 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, but she needs a refresher course, badly.
And it would be wonderful to get to hang out with some costuming-types,
and go....
*shopping!*
--sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Thu, 26 Dec 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> > *You* are a Horrible Torturer! *sniff*
> > Some of us are too far away to do any of that...*sniff, sniff*
> > --sue, feeling deprived ;-D
> 
> Sue is not allowed to feel *too* deprived. She's been to my workshop!
> 
> --Robin
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 21:19:07 -0500
Status: RO

I got a hard cover copy of the Virtue and Beauty book...  I love it!  I also
got a digital camera, so I can take pics of my stuff.  And a DVD player, so
I can, urm, research. (Yeah, that's the ticket...)

Apollonia

Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi
Kingdom of Atlantia
www.livejournal.com/users/apollonia

**Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
immane mittam.**

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 4:57 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?


It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?



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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 19:09:18 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com> wrote:
> It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What
> sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

I, too, received Elizabeth R on DVD. *And* I got my
first DVD player so that I can actually watch it!! :-)

My sweet husband gave me a VCR/DVD player and my
younger daughter gave me Elizabeth R...happy
sigh...I've been wanting the DVD set since I found out
it was being released last year. 

And one of my girlfriends gave me another pair of
Gingher dressmaker shears. That makes 4, but since
I've got daughters who sew, mine shears are *always*
missing--so another pair is a very good thing!

One other good thing happened while housecleaning for
the holidays was finding fabric that I'd forgotten I
had--just perfect for a new 16th century gown! 

Yippee!! 

Happy Holidays to you all.

kate



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] was  authentic colour, now snow
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:29:43 -0500
Status: RO

ROTFLMAO
I grew up in a small town called Perry...if you draw a line 
between buffalo and rochester, then go south by about 50 miles. I 
can remember the years when my father was stationied in a war 
zone living with my grandparents and sledding out of a third 
floor window...
margali
[and i am probably going to g'tringen in march or april to play 
in the snow;-) ]

Rowena wrote:


> And I do not have a snowblower - haven't needed one in the past 3 years.
> Finally found someone who would plow it for $50.   And I paid it.   It
> turned out to be a good deal,  since there was so much snow that he had
> problems moving it.
>    And I do not live at all close to Buffalo (or I would be used to this!)
> 
> I would welcome Nicole to come visit from Germany, if she'll help shovel!
> Rowena



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:46:12 -0500
Status: RO

Merry Christmas to all!!!!!!

I f-I-n-a-l-l-y got the video of Cher's 1999 concert.  Some of you may have
seen this concert on HBO.  I asked for the video last year but it was hard
to find.  It has a section with Bob Mackie's renderings for this show's
costumes.  There are also two costumes in the show that she wore from the
Sonny and Cher show.   I would love to see renderings of this year's
Farewell concert costumes.  I saw Cher's concert last summer in Phillie and
there were a lot of different vintage and cultural influences in her
costumes.

My son bought me a brooch from the 1920s.  We have this one vintage shop and
I always tell my son that he can go there and buy me anything.

I also got a lot of stationary with vintage fashion items printed on them.
I got some bustle and 1890s figurines!!!!!!  I collect both stationary and
figurines!!!!

On the other hand, my oldest son is dating a college student who is a
fashion major.  She loves period fashions.  What an easy person for me to
get a gift for... I just went to my Delineator stash and found a nice 1930
issue for her and some prints of paintings from the Smithsonian.  She told
my son that was the best gift she has ever received.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Margo Anderson" <margo@margospatterns.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 4:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?


> It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>
> I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
> Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.
>
> Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan,
but
> I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
> so my 6 year old decided I must have her.
>
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
>
>
> See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
> margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
>


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Sneaking over to Sue's house and slipping away with that amazon.com gift
certificate.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 23:58:33 -0500
Status: RO

On Thursday 26 December 2002 04:57 pm, Margo Anderson wrote:
> It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

Textiles for Colonial Clothing, by Sally A. Queen.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 00:04:05 -0500
Status: RO

On Thursday 26 December 2002 07:47 pm, Brenda Bell wrote:
> At Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:57:28 -0800, Margo Anderson asked:
> >It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> >related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>
> As usual, nothing. Most of my sewing and costuming stuff I buy myself on
> odd trips to fabric stores, bookstores, and online. Most of my
> sewing/costuming stuff is the sort of thing that family and friends
> wouldn't know what to pick up (and would tend to pick up something
> absolutely dreadful and/or unusable), so it's rather better that I do the
> purchasing myself.

Amazon's Wish List technology can work wonders in clueing friends and family 
in as to what you need--at least as to new books anyway....

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:12:45 -0700
Status: RO

I dunno, Penny....The house is pretty well defended by four furry
slugs...uh...attack cats.  Yeah, that's right.  Attack cats. ;-P
--sue, making tracks to hide the fabric stash and her newest books,
while she's at it.....

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Sneaking over to Sue's house and slipping away with that amazon.com gift
> certificate.
>
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:14:23 -0700
Status: RO

Now *that* one, I might have to have....
Apollonia, do you have the particulars on that (ISBN, etc.).....
--sue, dumping cookie crumbs <weg> out of her keyboard

Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi wrote:
> 
> I got a hard cover copy of the Virtue and Beauty book...
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sue's Christmas Stash
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 00:23:51 -0500
Status: RO

Sue,

I know exactly what sewing cats like... turkey... my 3 sewing cats have been
following me around since Thanksgiving waiting for me to give them more
turkey.  Soooooooo... your kitties will turn on you in a heartbeat.

Good for you to mention the books... I know you don't have cotton Japanese
prints.  That is my latest interest.  So the fabric stash is safe.  But
BOOKS!!!!!!!!  They are mine now!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:33:07 -0700
Status: RO

Ha!, I say, HA! I'll just distract you with my 2-volume edition of
Shakespeare's works, printed in the 1880s, that have etchings of actors
of the day in some of the roles....
Only one of the 4 cats actually will eat people food, and that's only
certain items.  And turkey isn't one of them! <weg>
And I actually do have a few japanese cotton prints...set aside for some
of those cushions I suddenly can't remember the name of.  They'll be a
graduation present for a friend, if he ever does.  Graduate.
The books you'd have to fight me for <g>...some of those buggers I
hauled all over England.  And Ireland.  On trains.  Off trains.  On
ferries.  Off ferries.  On subways.  Off subways.....And airports? Oy,
veh!
*snerk!* And then there was *customs!*
--Sue, burying the book stash in the back yard.....;-P

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Sue,
> 
> I know exactly what sewing cats like... turkey... my 3 sewing cats have been
> following me around since Thanksgiving waiting for me to give them more
> turkey.  Soooooooo... your kitties will turn on you in a heartbeat.
> 
> Good for you to mention the books... I know you don't have cotton Japanese
> prints.  That is my latest interest.  So the fabric stash is safe.  But
> BOOKS!!!!!!!!  They are mine now!
>
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 21:38:32 -0800
Status: RO

I got one thing for costume stuff for Christmas.  It is one of those hair 
twirler things.  It has three prongs.  I am going to use it to make 
cording.  And yes, I picked it out, paid for it, and gave it to my sister 
to give to my daughter to give to me, and then acted surprised.  It was 
better than getting some thing from the hallmark store.... she has this 
thing about cute teddy bears, which is what you expect from someone her 
age, but I just couldn't handle another trip to the mall so that she could 
get me something that I didn't want.  She was happy, I was happy.

My son brought home a couple of girls for Christmas.  They got bored on 
Christmas day and raided my fabric and pattern stash and started 
sewing.  It was a unique experience for me since my daughter is obsessed 
with dance.  It is always interesting to see what they make.

I also saw a movie of mansfield park.  It was good, but the costuming was 
all wrong.

At 10:14 PM 12/26/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Now *that* one, I might have to have....
>Apollonia, do you have the particulars on that (ISBN, etc.).....
>--sue, dumping cookie crumbs <weg> out of her keyboard
>
>Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi wrote:
> >
> > I got a hard cover copy of the Virtue and Beauty book...
>_______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:18:40 -0800
Status: RO


>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>
>I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
>Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.
>
>Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan, but
>I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart,
>so my 6 year old decided I must have her.

I was given a book of Edward Curtis's photographs of Native Americans, full 
of their costumes, and a 1925 edition of 'Hans Brinker, or, The Silver 
Skates', full of '1925-historical' Dutch costumes.  I gave myself some 
bone-handled either crochet hooks or, more likely, tambour hooks.  I spent 
my Xmas money on linen and Spandex.  My main man got, from me, all the wool 
and lining-silk he will need to make his frock coat.  (He saw some 
costumer-made frock coats at Dickens' Fair this year, and I think he'll 
finally get the frock coat made this coming year, in time for Dickens' Fair 
in Novmber.)


Kayta

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 01:55:37 -0500
Status: RO

Maryann,

I know what you mean about having fun with the girls!!!!!  My daughter is
obsessed with hairstyles... she tolerates my obsession with costume.  A
wonderful Christmas present to me (although he doesn't know it) was that my
first son is dating a girl who has interest in historic costume!!!  She
actually took classes with me when I was in college but I didn't know her
then.  It isn't that she is old... it was me... I graduated at 40.  My son
thinks it is neat to have someone who he can talk fashion with.  This is my
son who took color coordinating his clothes at age 4 a little too seriously.

My 4th son, is a theater tech.  He dates girls who are in the dept. or he
recruits them to work on shows before he will date them.  Then he brings
them home and shows off all my goodies... like my antique fans.

#4 son gave me the most wonderful Christmas.  When I was working on the
Japanese quilt, my little Katie wanted to learn to sew on the machine.  I
was cutting fabric, and really didn't have much patience to work with my
impatient daughter.  I told her to get on the machine and practice sewing
straight seams.  Of course in 5 minutes, she was throwing a fit and had the
bobbin messed up.  #4 son came in and started teaching her how to sew on the
machine.  I almost fell out of my chair.  I asked him... where did he learn
to sew on a machine.  He said, "Mom, I have been awarded Theatre Tech of the
Year for the past two years.  I sew the costumes for the shows!!!"    You
could have knocked me over with a feather.  I knew he was helping with the
costumes.  All along, I thought he was just cutting the costumes for the
shows.  I am just thrilled to know my gift of sewing was passed on to one of
my children.  He said that all the techies are required to sew on the
machines.

Lastly, #2 son... the artsy sculptor one... saw the quilt and said, "You
know, I would like to learn to sew on a machine to make an artsy quilt."
This son has known how to sew by hand his whole life.  I told him about some
of the artsy quilt shows I have been too.  He is interested in going to the
Williamsburg Quilt Show in February with me.  This show can inspire anyone!!
If he starts quilting, I can't wait to see what he would design.  He just
bubbles with creative ideas.  He sells a lot of his artwork and thinks this
might be a good medium for him to go into.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 02:23:37 -0800
Status: RO

   The love of my life presented me with the 3 costume books that were 
recently for sell on E-bay.  My collection is slowly getting better. 
 Hurray!
     And my future mother-in-law gave me a $50 gift certificate from the 
Craft Warehouse.

Roscelin

Margo Anderson wrote:

>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>
>I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.  
>
>Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan, but I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to K-mart, so my 6 year old decided I must have her.  
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>  
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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--0-1825833330-1040986614=:87100
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I got a used sewingmachine.

A pfaff from 1976, still with the original reciept and guaranties.

It is really nice, as so far I have been doing all my sewing by hand. After sewing my farthingale I got really tired of handsewing straight seams. 20 meters of ribbon sewn on both side to make channels for the bones. 40 meters of unending sewing.

Tania



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<P>I got a used sewingmachine.</P>
<P>A pfaff from 1976, still with the original reciept and guaranties.</P>
<P>It is really nice, as so far I have been doing all my sewing by hand. After sewing my farthingale I got really tired of handsewing straight seams. 20 meters of ribbon sewn on both side to make channels for the bones. 40 meters of unending sewing.</P>
<P>Tania</P><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Yahoo! Mail Plus</a> - Powerful. Affordable. <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com">Sign up now</a>
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 07:47:03 -0500 (EST)
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>  --- Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com> wrote: > It's traditional, I
> always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> > related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

Oh, lessee -- I got a book on identifying vintage textiles, another book
on life in the Plymouth colony, and the DVD set of the Lord Peter Wimsey
mysteries with Edward Petherbridge.  I _guess_ that's costume-related,
because I drool over the clothing in period pieces, and have a weakness
for men's clothing from that period...

Gave Kevin a book on New England pine furniture, and a gift certificate
for Home Depot (for a tool he wants, which they didn't have in stock when
I was there shopping).

Got (and gave) a couple of costume books, including the Kyoto book
(Evolution in Fashion), and "An Elegant Art", and of course I got those
earrings, and matching necklace, from the musee d'Orsay, with which I am
very disappointed.  They are out of scale with the earrings in de
la Tour's paintings on which they are modeled.  I have to read the
paperwork to find out if I can return them at no cost; if not, I'll try to
sell them.  Anyone want a pair? :)  They'd work rather well for the 1950s,
actually...

-- Mara

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 07:50:41 -0500 (EST)
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ONLY 15?  <grin>

-- Mara


On Thu, 26 Dec 2002, Theresa Eacker wrote:
> Theresa Eacker (whose backlog of "want to have" costume books is up to
> 15 by now!!!)

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:02:42 -0500
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> >  --- Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com> wrote: > It's traditional, I
> > always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> > > related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

I almost did not answer this post....   Since my divorce 3 years ago, I just have
not done Christmas at all.  No tree, and no presents...  I used to love the
season, but my ex spouse put a damper on it for me.

However, I did get some cushions from one of my SCA cousins.  And while this is
not entirely sewing related, I am redecorating my apartment to make it into a
home...  Rather than a place to sleep.  So, I guess you could say I got a new
project for Christmas!  LOL  Just think of all those curtains that need to be
sewn....  Not to mention the canvas floor cloths that need to be sewn together
and painted.... and the walls that need to be painted....  Hmmmmmmm   The sun
hits the kitchen in the morning... As I look out at whats left of the NYC
skyline, I think a rose colored room would be lovely.....  *G*  And greys,
greens, blues and lavenders figure prominently in the rest of the decor ideas.

Jenne

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sue's Christmas Stash
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:02:35 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Speaking of fabric, I ventured to JoAnn's on Christmas Eve, since I had
the day off and was contemplting sewing some more clothing for work (which
I actually didn't do, yet) and needed a couple of zippers for the pants.

I found some lovely poly-rayon fabric in their evening wear section that
was half-price, so bought some that looks like changeable silk, with black
warp and dark red weft.  I got so distracted by this fabric that I went
straight home and made it into a kimono-style jacket (the type with
triangle-shaped sleeves that you make by folding up one corner of a
rectangle); I think the style is called a 'happi' jacket in the book I
have on how to make your own Japanese clothes.  (happy smile)  I really
like the way it turned out, and am contemplating going back next payday
for some actual silk dupioni they had in stock, and making another one.  I
have one of these in a peacock blue/black dupioni, and it looks really
nice worn over anything from the standard little black dress to blue
jeans.

So that fabric didn't even have a _chance_ to dive into my stack and hide
itself!  I've been working on reducing the stash, but somehow it never
seems to get any smaller... <G>

-- Mara

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 08:38:55 2002
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 06:38:12 -0700
Status: RO

That's her *backlog*, not her stash, so maybe she buys them more often
than most of us?
My backlog's small at the moment...I took care of a lot of it in Europe!
<g>
--sue

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> ONLY 15?  <grin>
> 
> -- Mara
> 
> On Thu, 26 Dec 2002, Theresa Eacker wrote:
> > Theresa Eacker (whose backlog of "want to have" costume books is up to
> > 15 by now!!!)
>
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From: "Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:50:04 -0500
Status: RO

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0691090572/ref=cm_wl_ovu-pg.1-
pos.3/102-7602307-6720116?v=glance&coliid=I1LBTGHTWAAB8M&me=ATVPDKIKX0DER

There it is on Amazon, who had the book here in no time!  So my hubby
says...

Apollonia, who keeps her cookies away from the computer, or anal-retentive
husband would have a stroke

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 12:14 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?


Now *that* one, I might have to have....
Apollonia, do you have the particulars on that (ISBN, etc.).....
--sue, dumping cookie crumbs <weg> out of her keyboard


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 08:57:52 2002
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 06:56:31 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks!
--sue

Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi wrote:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0691090572/ref=cm_wl_ovu-pg.1-
> pos.3/102-7602307-6720116?v=glance&coliid=I1LBTGHTWAAB8M&me=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> There it is on Amazon, who had the book here in no time!  So my hubby
> says...
> 
> Apollonia, who keeps her cookies away from the computer, or anal-retentive
> husband would have a stroke
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
> Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 12:14 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
> 
> Now *that* one, I might have to have....
> Apollonia, do you have the particulars on that (ISBN, etc.).....
> --sue, dumping cookie crumbs <weg> out of her keyboard
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 11:33:59 2002
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:32:24 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hmmm, I got one of the Pasold Studies books on
textiles from one best friend and the DVD "Valmont"
from the other. (I've almost got my S.O. convinced to
wear an outfit from this time period, and he likes
"Valmont" better than "Dangerous Liasons")

Gave (with help)all of Margo's patterns to one of the
afore mentioned friends, wrapped in peacock feather
fabric, lots of ribbon to someone working on projects
with ribbonwork, and sewed new costumes for my S.O.
for Yule.  The look on Molly's face as she carefully
unpinned the fabric and saw the patterns she's been
drooling over since Margo first announced she was
working on them was worth every penny, especially when
she was told that the Gentleman's set was included!

Gave myself an extra vacation day, for 3 days off in a
row, and spent them sewing stuff--got a pre-Raphaelite
inspired gown 90% done, cut out 9 outfits for Althaia,
and got 2 other outfits for the Masquerade project cut
out!  

Happily,

Angharat,

who is busily plotting with Molly to use our new
patterns and thoroughly play with our director's mind!

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 11:47:30 2002
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 11:43:04 EST
Status: RO

Well--and Happy Holidays all around---!!
I guess I better hide my Amazon gift certificate--after what I've heard so 
far:)
I know I have a hand crank sewing machine on it's way soon---from a Dear 
Friend--(now I can sew even when we take the camper to Jalama or the 
mountains! huzzahhhh!!!) My husband also got some garden furniture---so we 
can sit out amongst my 173 roses come springtime(my 3th favorite passion 
behind costumning and jewelry-making)--and I got cook books on french and 
thai cooking---(my 4th passion:) Now all I have to do is retire  from my 'day 
job' and win the lottery,  to enjoy them all uninterrupted:)!!!
Oops!! ---and I almost forgot---my little sister --knowing my addiction to 
fabric and jewelry findings ---sent me 7 yards of dupioni silk cross woven in 
blue and gold--and some  yummy strands of creamy pink round pearls and 
citrines.I'm sure that these last must be made into something to go with the 
dupioni---mmmmmm!! But what time period shall I pick?? Ideas, anyone?
Ohhhh----and another friend gifted me with a Princess of the French Court 
Barbie---the scarey thing is---I already have all the fabrics in my fabric 
hoarde to duplicate her outfit!!! Ekkk!!
Cheers and Best--
Albra
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 11:45:18 EST
Status: RO

Congrats on your sewing machine Tania!! Sewing by hand all the time beause 
you have to could really get old, really fast!!! Now you'll be able to 
indulge yourself with at least rwice as sets of clothes in half the time:)
Albra
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 10:16:35 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Lead Weights.


No, really, I needed new pattern weights so I put them on my christmas list and hubby got them for me (along with other things, not just the weights.)

He told me that when he picked them up at the store he started bouncing them in his hand, just to check the weight, and all the sales people backed away from him. <g>

Liz Gerds


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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 10:16:36 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Lead Weights.


No, really, I needed new pattern weights so I put them on my christmas list and hubby got them for me (along with other things, not just the weights.)

He told me that when he picked them up at the store he started bouncing them in his hand, just to check the weight, and all the sales people backed away from him. <g>

Liz Gerds


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 13:21:54 2002
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 13:19:05 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:57 PM -0800 12/26/02, Margo Anderson wrote:
>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

Nothing directly costume-related for Christmas.  On the 
tangentially-related list, I got the LOTR:FOTR extended edition DVD, 
although I ended up giving it to myself.  (Various of my siblings, 
including me, had mentioned it on our "want lists", so I'd picked up 
two copies to give, but one of the intended targets got a copy from 
someone else first, and I had gotten him something else as well, so I 
kept the movie.)  But on the non-Christmas front, my mother pipes up 
this morning and asks me, "So, do you think you're ready for your 
great-great-grandmother's diamond ring?"  Needless to say, I said 
'yes'.  (The only stipulation is that it has to be kept in the family 
when I hand it on.)  My great-great-grandfather bought the ring for 
her on the birth of their first child while he was in Paris on a 
buying trip for R.H. Macy.  It still has the original setting (which 
is described in the documentation as a "Tiffany setting" although I 
don't know if this is referring to the style or to the actual maker). 
Now I just have to find occasions when it will be appropriate for 
jeans-and-t-shirt-me to wear it.  (There is also a locket with photos 
of the two of them, and it looks like a lock of g-g-g'mother's hair 
tucked behind the picture.)  I'm debating whether it's time to get a 
safe-deposit box at my bank, or maybe simply to get a home safe of 
some type.  I was burgled once, many years ago, and this is stuff I 
have no intention of losing!

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 14:11:54 2002
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:10:15 EST
Status: RO

Oh- Heather DO get a sfe deposit box. My house was burgeled  about 8 years 
ago.I was devastated to loose, amongst other things,  3 sets of antique 
sterling that had been in the family from 2 great aunties and my great 
grandmother--plus the diamond and ruby ring from my other grandmother--not to 
mention most of my costumne jewely , as well as 'the real stuff ' I had made  
for myself:( While the insurance paid -----it's still not the same---nor the 
complete amount:( 
Albra
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 11:23:08 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Heather,

Get the box!  Burglery and such disasters as fires can
cause you to lose all sorts of precious things.

*shudder*

Angharat,
who definitely has been there



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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 12:08:33 -0800
Status: RO

Well, what can I say, I'm pretty much a newbie in all areas, including 
depth of book lust!!

Theresa Eacker

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

> ONLY 15?  <grin>
> 
> -- Mara
> 
> 
> On Thu, 26 Dec 2002, Theresa Eacker wrote:
> 
>>Theresa Eacker (whose backlog of "want to have" costume books is up to
>>15 by now!!!)
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] New Patterns From Butterick
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:05:55 -0600
Status: RO

I just got back from a pillaging trip thru JoAnn Fabrics where they are
having a $.99 sale on Butterick and McCalls patterns. Much to my surprise
and glee, Butterick has a new set of Victorian patterns out. There is a
woman's 1840/50's(?) gown that is clearly supposed to be from a formal
portrait of Queen Victoria, it's complete with crimson, ermine trimmed
over-robe, and there's an Albert military style outfit to go with it for
the menfolk! There's also a later Victorian men's morning coat and vest
and an 1890's style wedding dress for the ladies which could eaily turn
into a visiting dress just by NOT making it in white satin. The numbers
to look for are:

'Victoria' Formal Gown    Butterick 3713
'Albert' Military Coat and Trousers   Butterick 3723
Late Victorian Morning Coat and Vest   Butterick 3721
1890's Wedding Dress  Butterick 3716

Of course none of these are absolutely perfect as historical
reproductions, but they are part of the 'Making History' series and are
far better than most previous attempts at similar designs. None of these
seem ot be up on the Butterick web site yet, so they are
brand-spankin'-new!



Karen

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 12:11:54 -0800
Status: RO

Are they too small then?  Bummer, they looked pretty good in the photo. 
  I don't remember seeing any dimensions given to help with scale, but, 
then, I've bought earrings on E-bay that had the desired _stated_ size 
and found out that sellers have different notions of what "inch/cm" mean!!!

I'll bet you could build your own and get exactly what you want!!

Theresa Eacker

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
  (Pruning)

 got those
> earrings, and matching necklace, from the musee d'Orsay, with which I am
> very disappointed.  They are out of scale with the earrings in de
> la Tour's paintings on which they are modeled.  I have to read the
> paperwork to find out if I can return them at no cost; if not, I'll try to
> sell them.  Anyone want a pair? :)  They'd work rather well for the 1950s,
> actually...
> 
> -- Mara
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 12:57:54 -0800
Status: RO

  --- Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com> wrote:
>  It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>  related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

My only gift was from my daughter, something i wanted:
the soundtack CD from the documentary "Fast, Cheap, and Out of Control"

Heck, i'm on a fabric diet and i haven't even bought myself any 
fabric this month.

Anahita
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 16:12:07 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:10:35 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

No, they're too big!  They'd fit someone of the stature of, say, Julia
Child.  On me, they're just outsized.

-- Mara


On Fri, 27 Dec 2002, Theresa Eacker wrote:

> Are they too small then?  Bummer, they looked pretty good in the photo.
>   I don't remember seeing any dimensions given to help with scale, but,
> then, I've bought earrings on E-bay that had the desired _stated_ size
> and found out that sellers have different notions of what "inch/cm" mean!!!
>
> I'll bet you could build your own and get exactly what you want!!
>
> Theresa Eacker
>
> Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
>   (Pruning)
>
>  got those
> > earrings, and matching necklace, from the musee d'Orsay, with which I am
> > very disappointed.  They are out of scale with the earrings in de
> > la Tour's paintings on which they are modeled.  I have to read the
> > paperwork to find out if I can return them at no cost; if not, I'll try to
> > sell them.  Anyone want a pair? :)  They'd work rather well for the 1950s,
> > actually...
> >
> > -- Mara
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 16:13:51 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:12:37 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Hm, a fabric diet... well, I seem to have the same willpower when it comes
to that as to actual food!  <G>

-- Mara

On Fri, 27 Dec 2002 lilinah@earthlink.net wrote:
> Heck, i'm on a fabric diet and i haven't even bought myself any
> fabric this month.

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From: "chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] shoes
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 15:29:35 -0600
Status: RO

Ok, what period would these shoes be _closest_ to?

http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/prod.jhtml?itemId=prod6440303&pare
ntId=cat2810736

Sincerely,
Chiara
Ansteorra, Steppes
Not all ermine spots are created equally

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Subject: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 21:52:37 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Well, today was the first day of Liberty's and John Lewis' sale, and
since I had some gift vouchers burning a hole in the bottom of my
wallet, naturally I had to save myself the cost of a new wallet. So I
scored some really rather nice cotton/viscose/wool velvet, in shades
of bronze and gold and a pattern acceptable from about late 15th
century, and some ivory dupion with bands of ivory embroidery, both
from the furnishing rather than dress fabric range at John Lewis.
Liberty's had their duchesse satin at half price, so I got 1.5 meters
in silver, and 1.3 metres of a satinbacked crepe, ditto.

Alas, this came to rather more than my vouchers, so I think I had
better go on a  fabric diet. Does anyone know of one which actually
works?

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shoes
From: sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:40:56 -0700
Status: RO

on 12/27/02 2:29 PM, chiara at chiara@io.com wrote:

> http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/prod.jhtml?itemId=prod6440303&pare
> ntId=cat2810736

Victorian although the heel is too high and narrow.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:25:16 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 27 Dec 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:

> Alas, this came to rather more than my vouchers, so I think I had
> better go on a fabric diet. Does anyone know of one which actually
> works?

As any nutritionist can tell you, no diet works very well (with lasting
results) unless you couple it with exercise. So, if you want to keep your
fabric stash to a manageable size, it's not enough just to reduce intake;
you also have to get busy and sew some of the stuff up.

Now if I could only listen to my own advice...

--Robin, sitting on too many pounds, um, yards


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shoes
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:19:41 -0600
Status: RO

Sigh, that is what I was afraid of, the price was right but the heel just
did not look right. I was thinking of gifting it to someone. Oh well.

Sincerely,
Chiara
Ansteorra, Steppes
Not all ermine spots are created equally

----- Original Message -----
From: "sylvia" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shoes


> on 12/27/02 2:29 PM, chiara at chiara@io.com wrote:
>
> >
http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/prod.jhtml?itemId=prod6440303&pare
> > ntId=cat2810736
>
> Victorian although the heel is too high and narrow.
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Dec 27 17:23:54 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shoes
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:08:57 -0800
Status: RO


>Ok, what period would these shoes be _closest_ to?
>
>http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/prod.jhtml?itemId=prod6440303&parentId=cat2810736

Modern.  They're not tall enough to be late-Victorian/Edwardian, nor low 
enough to be 'hoop-skirt' mid-Victorian.  And the heel is a combination of 
too high and too spindly to be anything but modern.  (Your feet will thank 
you if you can find 1-inch, or lower, heels.)

The fake-o-Victorian boots they sell to brides are a good bet for shape, 
and will probably be cheaper.  If they are cloth covered, they can be dyed 
any colour you need, possibly thru the shop you buy them at.


Kayta

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:17:34 -0800
Status: RO


>Alas, this came to rather more than my vouchers, so I think I had
>better go on a  fabric diet. Does anyone know of one which actually
>works?

Yes, but you gain weight - get pregnant several times and have many small 
children.  Suddenly you can't get out to buy fabric, nor do you have time 
to sew.  The other cure is to have your house burn down.


Kayta

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:33:01 -0800
Status: RO

An Ott Lite portable lamp (from my "honorary family," whom I've spent 
Christmas with for the last 20 years or so). Since I have a tendency 
to do itty bitty knitting and embroidery projects, and also have 
middle-aged eyes, this will help tremendously in badly-lit rooms, on 
dark days, et cetera. (Memo to self: Self, don't try beading on dark 
blue velveteen again without the Ott Lite!)
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 15:07:07 -0800
Status: RO

From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
>An Ott Lite portable lamp (from my "honorary family," whom I've spent
>Christmas with for the last 20 years or so). Since I have a tendency
>to do itty bitty knitting and embroidery projects, and also have
>middle-aged eyes, this will help tremendously in badly-lit rooms, on
>dark days, et cetera. (Memo to self: Self, don't try beading on dark
>blue velveteen again without the Ott Lite!)

I bought myself one of the folding/portable Ott Lites about 1-1/2 
years ago when i found them on sale and was just getting into more 
complex forms of embroidery.

My only complaint is that there isn't a battery powered version that 
i can take it travelling with me and use anywhere (like camping :-)

I do have a question, though. Is the one with an attached magnifier 
good or is it better to have an independent magnifier?

I'm near-sighted, but with age i can no longer focus on things 2 
inches away from my eyes :-(

Now i must hold them out about 8 inches away!! And i do some tiny 
things, so i am now experimenting with magnifiers for some of the 
fine embroidery. It's a new for me, so i'm wondering about the built 
in kind...

Note the kind that stands like a regular floor lamp would not be 
useful to me, since i don't have couches or chairs (except for the 
one that rolls between my computer and my sewing machine). I sit on 
the floor and put the Ott Lite practically in my lap :-)

Anahita
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] shoes
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 10:37:38 -0500
Status: RO

Ok, I had to go look at the shoes... pretty! For some reason I took a
look at the sizes offered, and noticed that they have a size 10, 10.2
and 10.5. What is a size 10.2? 

Thanks!

Linda

From: h-costume-admin@indra.com On Behalf Of chiara
Subject: [h-cost] shoes

Ok, what period would these shoes be _closest_ to?
http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/prod.jhtml?itemId=prod6440303&
parentId=cat2810736








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Subject: [h-cost] suggestions, please (was "christmas")
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:50:09 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


The only thing vaguely costume-related that I got was from my boyfriend's
not-quite-clueless mother, who got me two miniature dress forms.  They're
supposed to look arty and old-fashioned, but don't quite pull it off.

However, when I was taking a draping class, we worked a little with
half-scale dress forms, and I really liked the convenience of doing a
doll-sized mock-up to get a quick view of what any given design would look
like.  Neither of the little dress forms are remotely anatomically
correct, but I'm wondering if it would work to draft a sloper to my
measurements (without ease), reduce it by 75% (or whatever to get it close
to the correct size) and make it up in muslin and stuff it, as with the
various body double dress forms.  Has anybody tried such a thing?

With two, I could even have one corseted, one loose....

Emma

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Subject: Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sue's Christmas Stash
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 20:00:54 -0500
Status: RO

> rectangle); I think the style is called a 'happi' jacket in the book I
> have on how to make your own Japanese clothes.  (happy smile)  I really
> like the way it turned out, and am contemplating going back next payday
> for some actual silk dupioni they had in stock, and making another one.  I
> have one of these in a peacock blue/black dupioni, and it looks really
> nice worn over anything from the standard little black dress to blue
> jeans.
> 
> So that fabric didn't even have a _chance_ to dive into my stack and hide
> itself!  I've been working on reducing the stash, but somehow it never
> seems to get any smaller... <G>
> 
> -- Mara
i'm not sure what your local jo-annes is selling dupione for, but you may
want to look here first:

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-silk
s-promotionally-priced-silk-dupioni.html

please note that the width is 54" wide.

laurie

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From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidery question
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 17:11:56 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I am way behind on reading my list so this is probably
off topic but can someone tell me, off-list so I'll
get it, what kind of embroidery would be used for the
designs in Needlework Patterns from Renaissance
Germany designs recharted from a 1597 German
needlework book.  I realize that counted cross stitch
is not period but I could use help with what stitches
would be used and where they would be used in these
designs.  Some of the designs look like I could use
darned work, maybe counted satin stitch but I am way
out of my usual period with these designs.  Thanks.
                            Cassandra

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: New Patterns From Butterick
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:46:27 -0700
Status: RO

I took a look at the new patterns Butterick has out while I was there this 
afternoon... I don't consider them to be much better than anything else 
Butterick has done in the last 100 years.  As "costume" level stuff 
(Halloweeny) they work alright, but for anything more detailed, they leave a 
lot to be desired, IMO.  The Simplicity Martha McCain series are MUCH 
better, though they're only women's things.    I like the styles they're 
doing (Butterick), but the quality of the cut is pretty poor, and very 
modern.  And, there's no understructure to anything!  The addition of good 
understructure, tailoring, and support details would go a long way to making 
things look more period, especially on the "Gibson" dress... does the model 
OWN a waist??  Can we build one for her?  LOL

Past Patterns has some early 1800's things out for men and women just now... 
REALLY cool looking, though I can't wear early 1800 things without looking 
like the prow of a ship.

Regards,
Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com





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From: Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shoes
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 20:45:45 -0500
Status: RO

At 02:08 PM 12/27/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>The fake-o-Victorian boots they sell to brides are a good bet for shape, 
>and will probably be cheaper.  If they are cloth covered, they can be dyed 
>any colour you need, possibly thru the shop you buy them at.

Like these?  (modern bridal boots)
http://www.westernweddingboots.com/swdshop/agora.cgi?&cart_id=&p_id=0045
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/a-and-b-studios/shoeslacupbr.html

I've also had fairly good luck finding this type of shoe on Ebay by 
searching for 'granny boots'.

For a more 'period' mid-19th c. woman's shoe, try this:
http://www.fugawee.com/CW%20Women's.htm

I'm very happy that they finally have the "Stella" in stock!  I saw a 
prototype at Abraham's Lady in G'Burg this summer, and have been wanting a 
pair ever since.  I think they'd work for earlier periods as well (which is 
why I want a pair), since they don't have those speedy-lace hooks.

-- Mara


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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:42:13 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> Katya wrote: 

> Yes, but you gain weight - get pregnant several
> times and have many small 
> children.  Suddenly you can't get out to buy fabric,
> nor do you have time 
> to sew.  The other cure is to have your house burn
> down.
\

But Katya!  The house one is only temporary
too....friends bring you fabric to help replace your
lost stash and then it grows!!!!

VOE,

Angharat

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
References: <GFEGKMCJKLPKIFGFNGDFKEJCFCAA.apollonia@bellsouth.net> <5.1.0.14.2.20021226213055.00a82c60@mail.attbi.com> <00d101c2ad74$f6493680$0400a8c0@centrl01.va.comcast.net>
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 22:06:13 -0500
Status: RO

> My 4th son, is a theater tech.  He dates girls who are in the dept. or he
> recruits them to work on shows before he will date them.  Then he brings
> them home and shows off all my goodies... like my antique fans.
>
>   #4 son came in and started teaching her how to sew on the
> machine.  I almost fell out of my chair.  I asked him... where did he learn
> to sew on a machine.  He said, "Mom, I have been awarded Theatre Tech of the
> Year for the past two years.  I sew the costumes for the shows!!!"

Hi, Penny. From the perspective of the Theater business for over 25 years, I am so glad to
hear that. One of my jokes about myself (and I have many) is that the only time that I made
the papers as a Stagehand was the year that I had to bring one of my machines in to sew some
chiffon curtains for the Miss America Pageant. There I am, half page color photo in the Region
section, diligently sewing pink chiffon. I am always doing all of the butch, macho stuff
(climbing, rigging, pushing, lifting, etc.) any other time and, of course I got ribbing from
the other guys, whereupon I said "well, a sewing machine is one piece of mechanical equipment
that I know how to operate, repair and maintain, and you don't, so when the work comes around,
I'll get the work and you won't". It paid off on a number of shows in the days before we
merged with a Wardrobe Local, where I was Head of Department for Wardrobe or Dressers. Both of
my sons are learning handsewing (from their mom, a much more competent handsewer than I), and
some day they will learn the machines from both of us. I hope your son continues on his path,
because our job as Stagehands is to recreate reality, and the more tools he has, the better
his chances will be to widen his horizons. Cheers, Mike T.

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Subject: [h-cost] Veiling question.
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 22:07:11 -0500
Status: RO

Hello, all.

I was reading the Oxford Illustrated History of the Crusades last night, and 
came across a portrait of Caterina Cornaro by Gentile Bellini.

I found the portrait on the web.  It's the first painting:

http://studentwebs.coloradocollege.edu/~s_santos/art2/renaissance_portraiture.htm

I'm puzzled by the veiling that partially covers her face.  It appears to 
consist of several layers, one of which includes a pearl pendant suspended 
from chin level.

Is the veiling accurate, or artistic license?

Thanks, and Happy New Year!
Michelle
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From: kate <macailith@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] exhibition at Windsor Castle
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 20:40:51 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Does anyone have any information regarding this
exhibition in the Drawings Gallery at Windsor Castle?

"An exhibition on Elizabeth I will take place from 7
February 2003 to mark the quatercentenary of Queen
Elizabeth I's death."

Also, there is an extra DVD with the Elizabeth R set
which has a documentary from the A&E channel about
Elizabeth which shows 2 portraits of her as a small
child as well as one of Jane Grey. The two portraits
of Elizabeth are maybe age 5 or 6 and then somewhat
older; the one of Jane has a small spray of violets(?)
tucked in her bodice. She has dark hair and eyes, a
black partlet and a blackworked collar that stands up
and curves away from her face and neck--similar to
this one: http://tudorhistory.org/mary/queenmary2.jpg

I've never seen any of the three portraits prior to
watching this DVD. 

Has anyone else ever seen them and are they on display
somewhere??

kate


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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In a message dated 12/27/2002 5:16:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:


> no diet works very well (with lasting
> results) unless you couple it with exercise. So, if you want to keep your
> fabric stash to a manageable size, it's not enough just to reduce intake;
> you also have to get busy and sew some of the stuff up.
> 
> 

I concur.  I'm making a concerted effort to use things I already 
have--sometimes in ways I had not originally intended.  (A contemporary wool 
skirt, already cut out, became a spencer, for example.  I'm pleased as punch 
with it.)  I just came across a term for making do with what you 
have--"bricolage."  I like to think that is what I'm doing.  I'm trying not 
to buy much of anything but maybe thread, buttons, or interfacings.  

I have also culled my fabric and given some away and may do more this spring. 
 I know, for example, that I will never go back to making lingerie again, so 
need to dump all the tricot.  Ditto with activewear, although I DO have 2 
granddaughters now, who may need leotards and such someday.

I still buy occasionally, but am getting better.  I enjoy the creativity 
required when making use of things I already have.  This often consists of 
combining different fabrics and trims in ways not originally intended, and I 
get a real sense of satisfaction from the finished results.

I have to admit, the offerings of the run-of-the-mill fabric store are 
getting less appealing.  I did buy a remnant during the latest G Street sale 
(a waistcoat for my husband), and I haven't been to Exquisite Fabrics, which 
is in downtown DC and lives up to its name, in nearly 2 years.  But it is 
getting to be the case where I see a fabric and think, I have something 
similar at home already, so why bother?  (I'm also often doing this with 
ready-to-wear--talk myself right out of buying something.)

Ann Wass


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/27/2002 5:16:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">no diet works very well (with lasting<BR>
results) unless you couple it with exercise. So, if you want to keep your<BR>
fabric stash to a manageable size, it's not enough just to reduce intake;<BR>
you also have to get busy and sew some of the stuff up.<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I concur.&nbsp; I'm making a concerted effort to use things I already have--sometimes in ways I had not originally intended.&nbsp; (A contemporary wool skirt, already cut out, became a spencer, for example.&nbsp; I'm pleased as punch with it.)&nbsp; I just came across a term for making do with what you have--"bricolage."&nbsp; I like to think that is what I'm doing.&nbsp; I'm trying not to buy much of anything but maybe thread, buttons, or interfacings.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
I have also culled my fabric and given some away and may do more this spring.&nbsp; I know, for example, that I will never go back to making lingerie again, so need to dump all the tricot.&nbsp; Ditto with activewear, although I DO have 2 granddaughters now, who may need leotards and such someday.<BR>
<BR>
I still buy occasionally, but am getting better.&nbsp; I enjoy the creativity required when making use of things I already have.&nbsp; This often consists of combining different fabrics and trims in ways not originally intended, and I get a real sense of satisfaction from the finished results.<BR>
<BR>
I have to admit, the offerings of the run-of-the-mill fabric store are getting less appealing.&nbsp; I did buy a remnant during the latest G Street sale (a waistcoat for my husband), and I haven't been to Exquisite Fabrics, which is in downtown DC and lives up to its name, in nearly 2 years.&nbsp; But it is getting to be the case where I see a fabric and think, I have something similar at home already, so why bother?&nbsp; (I'm also often doing this with ready-to-wear--talk myself right out of buying something.)<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 21:19:16 -0800
Status: RO

I got a Uniquely You dress form!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design
"If to do were as easy as to know what were good to do,
chapels had been churches,
and poor men's cottages princes' palaces."
The Merchant of Venice, I, ii - William Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "Brenda Bell" <webwarren@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 4:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?


> At Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:57:28 -0800, Margo Anderson asked:
>
> >It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> >related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?
>
> As usual, nothing. Most of my sewing and costuming stuff I buy myself on
> odd trips to fabric stores, bookstores, and online. Most of my
> sewing/costuming stuff is the sort of thing that family and friends
> wouldn't know what to pick up (and would tend to pick up something
> absolutely dreadful and/or unusable), so it's rather better that I do the
> purchasing myself.
>
> >I got the Elizabeth R series on DVD, the Shakespeare in Love DVD, and a
> >Dover Tudor and Elizabethan Fashions coloring book.
>
> Really kewl. There's some nice extras on the Elizabeth R DVD you'll want
to
> look at (some photos of the costuming process, and Glenda Jackson's
> recollections of the same). Did you get the regular Shakespeare in Love or
> the Collector's Edition? I got the regular one and then three months or so
> later saw there was a Collector's Edition with lots more extras and
> interesting stuff... but I couldn't bring myself to spend the extra money
> for another copy of a flick I already *had* a copy of.
>
> >Oh, and I got the Irish Princess Barbie!  I'm not usually a Barbie fan,
but
> >I fell in love with this one and visited her every time we went to
K-mart,
> >so my 6 year old decided I must have her.
>
> Sounds *cute* :)
>
> I got a new hard drive for my notebook -- I guess that *sort of* remotely
> relates to sewing/costuming, as I need more hard drive space to store my
> stash database and garb photos. I also got several Cherished Teddies
> figurines for my collection, some earphones I've been looking to get since
> November, and a passel of teddy bears for my hug...
>
> What I really need for Christmas is some *time* to work on next year's
> projects!
>
>
> Brenda
> webwarren@earthlink.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] exhibition at Windsor Castle
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 01:03:10 -0500
Status: RO

There is also a very lengthy series from the History Channel about Elizabeth
I.  I see if airing frequently.  Is that the one you are talking about?  I
taped it when it aired the first time.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 01:21:24 -0500
Status: RO

Mike,

My son is a hot ticket as a techie.  Local events hire him all the time to
work lighting and sound (L&S) or setup and tear down.  He worked as an
apprentice at one of the balls I went to.  The union guys came to him asking
how to do things.  While working this job, the owner of the big L&S company
for rock concerts offered him a job.  The union guys told him to not join
the union because my son can make more money as a private contractor.  Right
now, in high school, he makes $10-15 an hour to do S&L when working the
choir concerts and such at the school.  He also does S&L for a local church
making the same wage.  Next year, he will be a senior and go to a half day
tech school to do an apprenticeship in electricity.   Currently, he has two
theater production classes in school.  In one he is the teacher's aid.  He
has done this for two years.  His instructors are always looking out to get
him jobs.  He makes more in one day doing L&S than he did when he worked at
a supermarket all week.

BTW, I found out that my son's school is teaching Home Ec. and sewing
again!!!!!!

As for your press coverage... Congrads!!!  It is so funny what journalist
choose to write about.  My sister did makeup for a Lee Greenwood benefit
concert and got into people magazine for it.  Who would have thought of
it!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Valmont
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 01:36:03 -0500
Status: RO

Angharat,

I saw Valmont for the first time over the holidays.  It was on TV.  I loved
the costumes especially the embroidery on the menswear.  I was so excited
about the costumes I called Janice Ryan and discussed them... one gown with
balloon shaped sleeves really bothered me.   Janice said that none of the
ladies costumes were accurate but the menswear was well done.  She said
Dangerous Liaisons was more accurate and that she liked the story better.  I
have never made it through DL without falling a sleep, but I watched Valmont
twice with back-to-back showings on TV.  I would love to watch the video...
I am sure TV cut it the film to pieces with all the sex scenes.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 01:48:20 -0500
Status: RO

Theresa,

You will gather the books over time.  Watch eBay... especially auctions that
end late at night or on weekends and you can pick up some good deals.  B&N
stores is also a place to watch the clearance racks.  I hate paying full
price for any book.

In five years I have accumatled a lot.  Most of mine are antique magazines
and books.  Only three more years and the boys will be gone... then I can
takeover their big bedroom with all the built-in bookcases.  I have all
ready moved in some archives to one wall of shelves in the room. (No, my
teenage boys aren't happy about that) In my office, the books and magazines
have taken over in my office and the hallway.

Off to look for a bundle of magazines that I have lost in my office.  I need
a recovery team.  Any volunteers???????

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Veiling question.
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:52:46 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com> wrote: >
Hello, all.
> 
> I was reading the Oxford Illustrated History of the
> Crusades last night, and 
> came across a portrait of Caterina Cornaro by
> Gentile Bellini.
> 
> I found the portrait on the web.  It's the first
> painting:
> 
>
http://studentwebs.coloradocollege.edu/~s_santos/art2/renaissance_portraiture.htm
> 
> I'm puzzled by the veiling that partially covers her
> face.  It appears to 
> consist of several layers, one of which includes a
> pearl pendant suspended 
> from chin level.
> 
> Is the veiling accurate, or artistic license?


Well, while I can't say that I *know* for certain,
what is known is that Gentile Bellini was a
well-respected Venetian painter, and Queen Caterina
Cornaro was more than likely seen by Bellini with his
own eyes and this was more than likely painted from
life, rather than from another painting, like that of
Cornaro by Titian. In my estimation this is an
accurate rendition of the Queen's veiling.


Bella

http://movies.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Movies
- What's on at your local cinema?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 01:59:43 -0500
Status: RO

Anahita,

We had a discussion about this last summer on h-needlework.  The best
suggestion was to purchase some strong reading eyeglasses that you see at
the drug stores.

I had the same problem as I have gotten older.  When I had big framed
glasses 10 years ago, it was not a problem.  The bifocals worked great.  Now
with small lenses it is hard to sew with them.  I think I used up my close
vision from so many years of doing fine needlework.  Also from going on
marathon needlework stitching sprees.  (see what I did before I meet you
all)

I keep wondering why Bjarne's vision hasn't gone with all the fine
needlework and lacemaking he does... especially the lacemaking.  Somehow I
think I need to send Bjarne some eyeglasses to make me feel better.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 02:10:30 -0500
Status: RO

Kayta,

I did the majority of my sewing when my kids were toddlers and babies... I
had toddlers and babies in the house for 15 years.  I could put a needle in
the arm of a chair and my kids would never touch it.  I just taught them not
to touch it.  They loved to play with the pin cushions and button boxes.  I
made all of my first four sons clothes plus mine.  I did tons of needlework
when the boys were little.  My house is fully decorated in it.  After they
started school, I tired of making boys clothes and moved on to quilts and
ceramics.  Now that the boys are older, I spend more time chauffeuring them
around and have less time to sew.

Another idea for those with small children is to teach them to do stitching
on plastic canvas.  They will love that they can make something!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery question
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 22:07:11 -0800
Status: RO


>I realize that counted cross stitch
>is not period

If you're talking SCA, we've been thru this before on this list - yes it 
is, in some countries during some parts of "period".


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shoes
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 22:09:20 -0800
Status: RO


>http://www.westernweddingboots.com/swdshop/agora.cgi?&cart_id=&p_id=0045
>http://shop.store.yahoo.com/a-and-b-studios/shoeslacupbr.html
>
>I've also had fairly good luck finding this type of shoe on Ebay by 
>searching for 'granny boots'.
>
>For a more 'period' mid-19th c. woman's shoe, try this:
>http://www.fugawee.com/CW%20Women's.htm
>
>I'm very happy that they finally have the "Stella" in stock!  I saw a 
>prototype at Abraham's Lady in G'Burg this summer, and have been wanting a 
>pair ever since.  I think they'd work for earlier periods as well (which 
>is why I want a pair), since they don't have those speedy-lace hooks.
>
>-- Mara
>
>
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Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 22:10:20 -0800
Status: RO


>http://www.westernweddingboots.com/swdshop/agora.cgi?&cart_id=&p_id=0045

Pretty good.  Nice heel.

>http://shop.store.yahoo.com/a-and-b-studios/shoeslacupbr.html

Pretty good.  Not so good heel, and lose the ribbon laces.

>http://www.fugawee.com/CW%20Women's.htm

Yes.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 22:10:56 -0800
Status: RO


>The other cure is to have your house burn
> > down.
>\
>
>But Katya!  The house one is only temporary
>too....friends bring you fabric to help replace your
>lost stash and then it grows!!!!

Just like any other diet...


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 00:22:57 -0800
Status: RO

To Penny-

Thank you for the invaluable tips about accruing books for the library.
I tend to be impatient, or get excited about a new book, and fork over 
the full price too willingly.  And, boy, do they conquer territory 
easily - I've already purged all the music books I owned and am now 
working on craft books but they still demand more space!! Ah well, the 
joy is as much in the hunt as the capture, so I'll work at becoming more 
penurious about the new stuff!!

Theresa Eacker

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Theresa,
> 
> You will gather the books over time.  Watch eBay... especially auctions that
> end late at night or on weekends and you can pick up some good deals.  B&N
> stores is also a place to watch the clearance racks.  I hate paying full
> price for any book.
> 
> In five years I have accumatled a lot.  Most of mine are antique magazines
> and books.  Only three more years and the boys will be gone... then I can
> takeover their big bedroom with all the built-in bookcases.  I have all
> ready moved in some archives to one wall of shelves in the room. (No, my
> teenage boys aren't happy about that) In my office, the books and magazines
> have taken over in my office and the hallway.
> 
> Off to look for a bundle of magazines that I have lost in my office.  I need
> a recovery team.  Any volunteers???????
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
> 
> 
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners (http://www.plugit.com)]
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 04:22:56 -0500
Status: RO

Teresa,

Your welcome!  Here is another tip...
I used to pay full price, then I discovered I could buy brand new books in
the used book section at amazon.com at a much lower price.  Every book I
have purchased there has been in *new* condition.   My husband purchases his
college textbooks through the used books at amazon too.  They are a lot
cheaper than the university bookstore.

I look at it this way... I can purchase several books at discount instead of
one or two new books at full retail price.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 02:45:21 -0800
Status: RO


>I did the majority of my sewing when my kids were toddlers and babies... I
>had toddlers and babies in the house for 15 years.

I was pretty much limited to embroidering once I started having kids.  I 
could only actually sew when they were both asleep.  The almost-19-year-old 
made it a point to never learn to sew, but the other one is turning into a 
costumer, living history participant, and doll-maker, like me.

>They loved to play with the pin cushions and button boxes.

I let the kid I babysit play with my buttons and larger, strung, beads, as 
a reward.  She's 4 and loves it.

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 07:57:24 -0500
Status: RO


From: "Penny Ladnier" <> My son is a hot ticket as a techie.  (snipped) >
BTW, I found out that my son's school is teaching Home Ec. and sewing
again!!!!!!

And in NY, Gov. Pataki and Ed Commissioner Mills are going to start having
"hearings" about whether occupational skills such as Home Ec, Technology,
etc,,  really advance our "standards" or whether they could be eliminated
from an overcrowded curriculum.   Right now, half a year or 30 weeks of them
is mandatory in somewhere between 5th to 8th grade.

And I just bought a house this year- this is such a wonderful Christmas
present to all of us... Cross your fingers for all of us who truly love
teaching these skills.    Most of you realize that kids don't even get
cooking or nutrition from _most_  parents, much less how to care for their
clothing,  and people who don't sew don't teach clothing repair sewing, much
less the It IS Fun To Make Things sewing!

Our motto is that Home Ec - called Family & Consumer Skills now - is where
Academics and Real Life Meet.

Pataki tried to eliminate them before - he stands a real chance of doing so
in a tight budget year like next year will be.   We have a real challenge to
try to convince everyone that we are worth the expense of the course.
Rowena

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:32:12 +0000
Status: RO


> I had the same problem as I have gotten older.  When I had big framed
> glasses 10 years ago, it was not a problem.  The bifocals worked 
> great.  Now
> with small lenses it is hard to sew with them.  I think I used up my 
> close
> vision from so many years of doing fine needlework.  Also from going on
> marathon needlework stitching sprees.  (see what I did before I meet you
> all)

Penny,

Do you use the bifocals to sew with all the time?How do they help you in 
everyday senarios?

My vision has been/is changing over the past couple of years and I find 
myself ripping off my specs to sew and having to put them on if checking 
something at a distance.What is driving me nuts are the few 'minutes' - 
probably only seconds, its taking to focus when I change the visual 
range.I have no problem sitting for hours sewing by hand without my 
glasses.
My Optician isn't keen to get me set-up with bifocals as yet since the 
'readings' are so slight compared with the average sight.(Having found 
this a bit dangerous when rushing down stairs in public/areas I'm not 
familiar with due to the lack of speed with which my vision adjusts,I am 
concerned.)

Regards,

Marcus.

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 09:30:54 -0700
Status: RO

Funny, how these skills and interests sometimes come from environment,
and sometimes don't.  My mom was a bit artistic (minored in Art in
college, but did oil and water paintings), but would only sew under
extreme duress.  Me? from the time I was a toddler, I loved to "make"
things.  Learned embroidery and sewing fundamentals in Girl Scouts and
4-H, of all things!
I apparently inherited the need to work with my hands, and the knack to
do it, from my maternal grandfather's family (who were weavers, although
he also did woodworking and such), and from my great-grandmother, who
was crocheting and knitting into her 90s.
I would have loved to have a child to share this with.....
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> >I did the majority of my sewing when my kids were toddlers and babies... I
> >had toddlers and babies in the house for 15 years.
> 
> I was pretty much limited to embroidering once I started having kids.  I
> could only actually sew when they were both asleep.  The almost-19-year-old
> made it a point to never learn to sew, but the other one is turning into a
> costumer, living history participant, and doll-maker, like me.
> 
> >They loved to play with the pin cushions and button boxes.
> 
> I let the kid I babysit play with my buttons and larger, strung, beads, as
> a reward.  She's 4 and loves it.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:36:20 -0500
Status: RO

On Saturday 28 December 2002 01:48 am, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Theresa,
>
> You will gather the books over time.  Watch eBay... especially auctions
> that end late at night or on weekends and you can pick up some good deals. 
> B&N stores is also a place to watch the clearance racks.  I hate paying
> full price for any book.

Ditto.  I have also had good luck finding useful stuff on B&N on line.
>
> In five years I have accumatled a lot.  Most of mine are antique magazines
> and books.  Only three more years and the boys will be gone... then I can
> takeover their big bedroom with all the built-in bookcases.  

Ummm....built-in bookcases.

We have two walls in our basement devoted to built-in bookcases, and it still 
isn't enough.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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Subject: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:22:08 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I have been brooding over my fabric stash, and realised that I haven't
the faintest idea of when crepe (wool or silk) came into use in
western Europe. Can anyone enlighten me, please?

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 10:21:17 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Oh god yes.  I've been dying to know this too, since I scored a 
bunch of wonderful crepe online.

.heather.

> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have been brooding over my fabric stash, and realised that I haven't
> the faintest idea of when crepe (wool or silk) came into use in
> western Europe. Can anyone enlighten me, please?
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?-- silly
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:30:01 -0500
Status: RO

OK, you know that you aren't awake yet when "date crepe introduced?" doesn't
make you think of fabric. . . . and you wonder why on EARTH they are talking
about crimes on the h-costume list. . .


Lyn Greaves
Lady Rosamund d'Alwareton
COM, COTerpsichore, COSalamander



----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?


> Oh god yes.  I've been dying to know this too, since I scored a
> bunch of wonderful crepe online.
>
> ..heather.
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I have been brooding over my fabric stash, and realised that I haven't
> > the faintest idea of when crepe (wool or silk) came into use in
> > western Europe. Can anyone enlighten me, please?
> >
> > best wishes
> > Stevie
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:18:42 -0500
Status: RO

        Sounds like Lyn needs another cup of coffee quick!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:54:38 EST
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In a message dated 12/28/2002 1:36:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
penny@costumegallery.com writes:


> .   Janice said that none of the
> ladies costumes were accurate but the menswear was well done.

I'm sorry but I think all the costumes in this, for me, clunky movie, were 
dreadful! The only one I can vaguely remember is a white coat with 
asymmetrical[!] somethings on it in blue making it resemble blue willow 
china. He falls out of a boat into a lake, or something, in it. What is it 
you like about them, again?

I must confess here I also hate "Amadeus" as well. Same crew, y'know. I know 
lots of people like these films but for the life of me I can't get what they 
see. I've tried [with Amadeus] As far as the designs go, I find many clothes 
inappropriate for the characters and the others just adequate. I think they 
both look like high school projects. Whereas "Dangerous Liaisons is cleverly 
written, well acted and beautiful to behold. It's a gem IMNSHO.

I don't mean to upset or degrade anyone who likes these films. To each his 
own. What interests me is indeed the difference in our views. They're so 
contrary to one another. Fortunately, there's plenty of film for everyone.

--part1_75.5b56dda.2b3f4d6e_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/28/2002 1:36:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, penny@costumegallery.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">.&nbsp;&nbsp; Janice said that none of the<BR>
ladies costumes were accurate but the menswear was well done.</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
I'm sorry but I think all the costumes in this, for me, clunky movie, were dreadful! The only one I can vaguely remember is a white coat with asymmetrical[!] somethings on it in blue making it resemble blue willow china. He falls out of a boat into a lake, or something, in it. What is it you like about them, again?<BR>
<BR>
I must confess here I also hate "Amadeus" as well. Same crew, y'know. I know lots of people like these films but for the life of me I can't get what they see. I've tried [with Amadeus] As far as the designs go, I find many clothes inappropriate for the characters and the others just adequate. I think they both look like high school projects. Whereas "Dangerous Liaisons is cleverly written, well acted and beautiful to behold. It's a gem IMNSHO.<BR>
<BR>
I don't mean to upset or degrade anyone who likes these films. To each his own. What interests me is indeed the difference in our views. They're so contrary to one another. Fortunately, there's plenty of film for everyone.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:43:53 -0500
Status: RO

        Actually, this has nothing to do with Valmont, but an upcoming
movie on A & E.  I saw a documentary on the making of Benedict Arnold
last night and they said that they were trying to get the history and
characters and costumes as authentic as possible.  The costumes were just
flashed on the screen briefly in passing so I am really looking forward
to the movie.  This is not my period of major interest, but I have a
friend who plays music from this period and I have done a couple of gowns
for her.  I am looking forward to hearing from those of you who
specialize in this time frame when the movie airs.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: "Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Amadeus, was RE:  RE: Valmont
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Okay, I love Amadeus.  A lot.  I thought the costuming was very well done,
but I truly know nothing about that time period, or area, geography wise.
So what was wrong with the costuming?  :)  I'm rather curious now...

Apollonia

  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
  Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 1:55 PM
  To: h-costume@indra.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Valmont


  I must confess here I also hate "Amadeus" as well. Same crew, y'know. I
know lots of people like these films but for the life of me I can't get what
they see. I've tried [with Amadeus] As far as the designs go, I find many
clothes inappropriate for the characters and the others just adequate. I
think they both look like high school projects. Whereas "Dangerous Liaisons
is cleverly written, well acted and beautiful to behold. It's a gem IMNSHO.


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua" color=3D#800080><SPAN=20
class=3D343190619-28122002>Okay, I love Amadeus.&nbsp; A lot.&nbsp; I =
thought the=20
costuming was very well done, but I truly know nothing about that time =
period,=20
or area, geography wise.&nbsp; So what was wrong with the =
costuming?&nbsp;=20
:)&nbsp; I'm rather curious now...</SPAN></FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua" color=3D#800080><SPAN=20
class=3D343190619-28122002></SPAN></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua" color=3D#800080><SPAN=20
class=3D343190619-28122002>Apollonia</SPAN></FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
h-costume-admin@indra.com=20
  [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]<B>On Behalf Of=20
  </B>AlbertCat@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, December 28, 2002 1:55 =

  PM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] =
RE:=20
  Valmont<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
lang=3D0=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 =
size=3D3=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I must confess here I also hate "Amadeus" as =
well. Same=20
  crew, y'know. I know lots of people like these films but for the life =
of me I=20
  can't get what they see. I've tried [with Amadeus] As far as the =
designs go, I=20
  find many clothes inappropriate for the characters and the others just =

  adequate. I think they both look like high school projects. Whereas =
"Dangerous=20
  Liaisons is cleverly written, well acted and beautiful to behold. It's =
a gem=20
  IMNSHO.<BR><BR></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amadeus, was RE:  RE: Valmont
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The problems with Valmont and Amadeus as well is, that they did not =
study the styles well enough, those who made costumes.
Valmonts Jackets look very beautifull, and they are made very fine, but =
printed fabrics was very rarely used for mens costumes.
I think they used these printed fabrics, to spare the time it would take =
to decorate them properly with embroidery or lace etc.
The baloon sleaves used for a ladys costume was taken from some =
allegoral paintings from Boucher, (shepherds costumes) and they were not =
known for daily wear.
And if you look close, many of the ladies dresses was laced in the =
back..........ArGh..... and never used in real life, especially in 18th. =
century
I think the problem is that those costume designers, has read their =
costume history two quickly, and perhaps they are not that particular =
with the details as we are. And i have the feeling that they want to =
make some of their own idears and bring them into period costumes wich =
is very bad.........at least when you want to make a period play.
I most welcome if there is a new costume drama on its way, especially =
from this period, and it is long time since Dangerous Liasions came out. =
I dont think it has ben made better for a long time, and i long for =
something new to droll about.
The Aristocrats wich were in the television, was also very well made, =
and also The mad King George, i enjoyed very much.
The swedish television made a costume drama this year about the mariage =
of King Gustav III. This was very nice made, with gorgeous costumes and =
it is a shame that small production countries dont get their work to a =
broader audiense. I dont know if for instance America would bother to se =
such a film, from such a small country...........
I heard one of the leading danish producers talk about a film projekt =
wich was to make a drama of Struensee and Caroline Mathilde.
I would die if i could get my hands on those costumes to be made for =
such a produktion, mostly because it is the period i love mostly from =
1766 - 1776. Sigh.......................
(about an illegitime liasion betwen Queen Caroline Mathilde and Count =
Struensee, the Kings doctor)
I am very bad, cant keep my nose from the list mail even though i have =
so much work to do. I was so foolish to say yes to make a saque dress =
for a ball in Sweden january 21.
I must have it finished january 14. so that it can be shiped off. =
Underskirt almost finished, just have to make the pleated =
frills....................

Happy Newyear to you all.......................
Love your acquaintance

Bjarne=20
  =20



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The problems with Valmont and Amadeus =
as well is,=20
that they did not study the styles well enough, those who made=20
costumes.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Valmonts Jackets look very beautifull, =
and they are=20
made very fine, but printed fabrics was very rarely used for mens=20
costumes.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I think they used these printed =
fabrics, to spare=20
the time it would take to decorate them properly with embroidery or lace =

etc.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The baloon sleaves used for a ladys =
costume was=20
taken from some allegoral paintings&nbsp;from Boucher, (shepherds =
costumes) and=20
they were not known for daily wear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>And if&nbsp;you look close, many of the =
ladies=20
dresses was laced in the back..........ArGh..... and never used in real =
life,=20
especially in 18th. century</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I think the problem is that those =
costume=20
designers, has read their costume history two quickly, and perhaps they =
are not=20
that particular with the details as we are. And i have the feeling that =
they=20
want to make some of their own idears and bring them into period =
costumes wich=20
is very bad.........at least when you want to make a period =
play.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I most welcome if there is a new =
costume drama on=20
its way, especially from this period, and it is long time since =
Dangerous=20
Liasions came out. I dont think it has ben made better for a long time, =
and i=20
long for something new to droll about.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The Aristocrats wich were in the =
television, was=20
also very well made, and also The mad King George, i enjoyed very=20
much.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The swedish television made a costume =
drama this=20
year about the mariage of King Gustav III. This was very nice&nbsp;made, =
with=20
gorgeous&nbsp;costumes and it is a shame that small production countries =
dont=20
get their work to a broader audiense. I dont know if for instance =
America would=20
bother to se such a film, from such a small =
country...........</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I heard one of the leading danish =
producers talk=20
about a film projekt wich was to make a drama of Struensee and Caroline=20
Mathilde.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I would die if i could get my hands on =
those=20
costumes to be made for such a produktion, mostly because it is the =
period i=20
love mostly from 1766 - 1776. Sigh.......................</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>(about&nbsp;an illegitime liasion =
betwen Queen=20
Caroline Mathilde and Count Struensee, the Kings doctor)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am very bad, cant keep my nose from =
the list mail=20
even though i have so much work to do. I was so foolish to say yes to =
make a=20
saque dress for a ball in Sweden january 21.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I must have it finished january 14. so =
that it can=20
be shiped off. Underskirt almost finished, just have to make the pleated =

frills....................</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Happy Newyear to you=20
all.......................</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Love =
your&nbsp;acquaintance</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bjarne</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Leif og Bjarne Drews<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk">www.my-drewscostumes.dk</A></DIV>=

<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/">http://home0.inet.tele.dk/dr=
ewscph/</A></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><FONT=20
  face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C2AEB7.5A49F640--


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From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 21:33:55 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

I am looking for good pictures of Urûk-hai from Lord of the Rings.
In April there is a Fantasy fair in the Netherlands and my husband is 
thinking of going as a Urûk-hai.

I found this site with pictures
http://www.quintessentialwebsites.com/lordoftherings/movieshots_bk2/fotr_b2c10_scene2.htm

But I am surching for better pictures of what they are wearing.

Thanks,
        Deredere


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 12:39:15 -0800
Status: RO

I have progressive lenses and use them when I embroider. Being as I tend
to watch TV and work at the same time, they are lovely.

Arlys

On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:32:12 +0000 marcus findlay-arthur
<marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net> writes:
> 
> > I had the same problem as I have gotten older.  When I had big 
> framed
> > glasses 10 years ago, it was not a problem.  The bifocals worked 
> > great.  Now
> > with small lenses it is hard to sew with them.  I think I used up 
> my 
> > close
> > vision from so many years of doing fine needlework.  Also from 
> going on
> > marathon needlework stitching sprees.  (see what I did before I 
> meet you
> > all)
> 
> Penny,


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Urûk-hai_costume_LOTR
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 20:48:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Deredere, 

the ultimate web sites are http://www.theonering.net there search for uruk hai
in the search box and alleyscratch, I think it is
http://www.alleyscratch.com/lotr
Not 100% sure about the URL, am still at my parents and on my dad's lappie.

Nicole - back in England tomorrow

 --- Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote: > Hi,
> 
> I am looking for good pictures of Urûk-hai from Lord of the Rings.
> In April there is a Fantasy fair in the Netherlands and my husband is 
> thinking of going as a Urûk-hai.
> 
> I found this site with pictures
>
http://www.quintessentialwebsites.com/lordoftherings/movieshots_bk2/fotr_b2c10_scene2.htm
> 
> But I am surching for better pictures of what they are wearing.
> 
> Thanks,
>         Deredere
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10212271623170.26357-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 21:57:03 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
It is rather funny how different we are. Many of you are fabricoholic.
I only have 3 fabrics in my stash wich i dont know what to make of right
now.
This is all i have in store...........
I always make the fabric to a costume, just after i baught it...........


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets


>
> On Fri, 27 Dec 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>
> > Alas, this came to rather more than my vouchers, so I think I had
> > better go on a fabric diet. Does anyone know of one which actually
> > works?
>
> As any nutritionist can tell you, no diet works very well (with lasting
> results) unless you couple it with exercise. So, if you want to keep your
> fabric stash to a manageable size, it's not enough just to reduce intake;
> you also have to get busy and sew some of the stuff up.
>
> Now if I could only listen to my own advice...
>
> --Robin, sitting on too many pounds, um, yards
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 21:03:56 -0000
Status: RO

Deredere wrote:
---------
I am looking for good pictures of Urûk-hai from Lord of the Rings.
In April there is a Fantasy fair in the Netherlands and my husband is
thinking of going as a Urûk-hai.

I found this site with pictures
http://www.quintessentialwebsites.com/lordoftherings/movieshots_bk2/fo
tr_b2c10_scene2.htm

But I am surching for better pictures of what they are wearing.
--------------------------

Well, you could try:

http://www.larp.com/orcs/

which details someone else's efforts at reconstructing the Uruck-hai,
but probably the best way to do it is to sit in front of the dvd
pausing on the relevant frames. If you don't have it then perhaps your
husband could buy it for you on the grounds that it's absolutely vital
to making him a costume
:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 28 16:06:08 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <20021228.124501.572.14.Cley@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 22:05:58 +0100
Status: RO

Perhaps i should surrender and go to the optical shop.
I want some of those progressive lenses two.
I cant read without my glasses, and i need them when i sew.
The fine Tonder Laces i used to make, is getting more and more difficult for
me to cope with, because they are very very fine in pricking, this is the
worst of all.......

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny


> I have progressive lenses and use them when I embroider. Being as I tend
> to watch TV and work at the same time, they are lovely.
>
> Arlys
>
> On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:32:12 +0000 marcus findlay-arthur
> <marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net> writes:
> >
> > > I had the same problem as I have gotten older.  When I had big
> > framed
> > > glasses 10 years ago, it was not a problem.  The bifocals worked
> > > great.  Now
> > > with small lenses it is hard to sew with them.  I think I used up
> > my
> > > close
> > > vision from so many years of doing fine needlework.  Also from
> > going on
> > > marathon needlework stitching sprees.  (see what I did before I
> > meet you
> > > all)
> >
> > Penny,
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Dec 28 16:37:08 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:35:17 -0500
Status: RO

I checked my books and did not see an exact date.  The earliest I have seen
is a 1900 wedding dress in a museum.  From my Delineator dress fabric
descriptions, I have not seen it in the 1890s.  I do know by 1920s it was
the fabric of choice.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Valmont
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:42:53 -0500
Status: RO

Lalah,

I am looking forward to seeing the film too.  Was the making of the show on
A&E?  I keep trying to find the show the making of Chicago.  I saw it
advertised but didn't get the time it would be on.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?-- silly
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:14:20 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 28 Dec 2002, Lyn Greaves- home wrote:

> OK, you know that you aren't awake yet when "date crepe introduced?"
> doesn't make you think of fabric. . . . and you wonder why on EARTH
> they are talking about crimes on the h-costume list. . .

And here I was wondering why they were talking about French pancakes.

--Robin

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:37:11 -0500
Status: RO

On Saturday 28 December 2002 04:35 pm, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> I checked my books and did not see an exact date.  The earliest I have seen
> is a 1900 wedding dress in a museum.  


Is that dress wool crepe or silk crepe?

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:13:16 -0500
Status: RO

Rowena,

Strange that your state is trying to push out tech/life skills.  My state is
trying to push them.  I have seen this in the news a lot and they are
running commercials on TV.  Most of the school systems in our metro have a
technical school so kids attend and learn a trade.  It has come to the
realization that not all kids go to college and someday we will need to
replace the baby boomers in the work force.

As for the Home Ec.  I think it is really important that kids learn these
life skills.  Not only the sewing but how to cook, etiquette, etc.  Most
kids are not learning it at home.  When my kid's friends come over, they
want to stay for dinner because so few of them sit down with a family for
dinner.  These kids will volunteer to help cook and wash dishes.  People
would be shocked to see how many of these kids have never done a chore at
home.  I have been teaching these teenagers how to cook and wash dishes.  My
children laugh at the teenagers for volunteering.  My kids have done chores
all their life.

Before my kids go to prom, I have an etiquette talk with my sons' dates.
Most kids do not know how to tip a waiter, manners when formal dining, how
to walk and act in a formal dress.  I teach them how to walk up and down
stairs in a formal.   These were life skills I learned in Home Ec.  I have
found that kids get scared when they don't know what is expected of them.
Someone has to teach them... or one day you might see them falling over
their dress at the Oscars.

When I was teaching 8th grade computer classes, I taught everyone how to
keep up and balance a checking account in Quicken.  It wasn't a requirement
for the course, but I taught it.  By the end of the year, all the students
knew how to keep up with a checking account.   So I know at least 200
students of this year's high school grads will know how to keep up with a
checking account.  They were my students!

My oldest son is a manager of a Starbucks and hires a lot of young adults.
He said they are so lacking in life skills.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: pattern junkie Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 14:14:20 -0800
Status: RO

I am a pattern junkie. I've got all my sewing stuff in banker's boxes, 
and of all the categories of boxes that I have (patterns, fabric, 
notions, etc) the category that is the largest is patterns. Twice as 
many pattern boxes as fabric boxes. I think I like to potential of patterns.
Of course, if I had made up all the patterns I have, there would be no 
room in my closets. I would also be in debtor's prison from buying all 
the fabric that would require. Are there large closets in jail?

liz

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi.
>It is rather funny how different we are. Many of you are fabricoholic.
>I only have 3 fabrics in my stash wich i dont know what to make of right
>now.
>This is all i have in store...........
>I always make the fabric to a costume, just after i baught it...........
>
>
>  
>
>  
>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:36:31 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


Penny and others may be relieved to know that you don't harm your vision
from doing needlework or other close work. You might get eyestrain or
headaches from too much close work (or computer work, or work in poor
light), but you don't damage your eyes.

Everyone's eyes start going through changes around age 40, regardless of
what you use your eyes for. It's called presbyopia. It causes a form of
farsightedness -- that is, you find it easier to see things farther away
than close up, which is what makes some people want to hold a newspaper at
arm's length. But it's not the same mechanism that causes farsightedness
or nearsightedness earlier in life.

Those of us who are nearsighted or farsighted since our youth have an
overly long or short eyeball, so light coming through the front of the eye
reaches its optimal focus point a bit forward or back of the retina
instead of directly on it. Glasses can fix that by adding some focusing
power before the light comes into the eye; you can do the same with laser
surgery on the cornea (the clear dome over the pupil). Presbyopia has to
do with changes in the eye's lens, which is inside the eye, and does most
of the focusing by bending to give you near and distance vision. The lens
gets stiffer with age, making it hard for the lens to bend to the degree
it needs for close-up focus. And the aging process causes the lens to
change shape more slowly, too, which accounts for the problems Marcus
described in the speed of adjustment when you shift vision from far to
near and back.

It's possible to be both myopic (nearsighted) and presbyopic; I am. In
other words, I have trouble seeing both distance and close-up now, without
glasses. Sometimes if you're nearsighted, your nearsightedness will cancel
out some of the developing farsightedness, but it won't stay that way, as
presbyopia worsens through your early 60s or so before stabilizing. I
entered Varilux land (progressive lenses) last year, though I had problems
earlier than that. Good concept, but I got a bad prescription, and I'll be
getting it replaced shortly. I'm still pulling off my glasses to do close
work, and my eyes have trouble adjusting to read the numbers on the VCR
clock if I'm sewing in front of the TV :-P

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:37:27 -0500
Status: RO

Kayta,

It is so good of you to let the 4 y.o. that you babysit play with the
buttons.  Maybe you can make button bracelets and necklaces.  Last week I
came across a button brooch, that my daughter made in preschool.  So many
creative things can be made with buttons. My husband's fondest memories are
from being under his mom's sewing machine and playing with the button box.

I owned a home daycare when my kids were little.  I had my 5 kids plus 6
others.  I ran into one of the little girls that I watched from birth to 5
y.o.  She is now 14 y.o. and in high school.  She owns her own little craft
business and sells her creations on the weekends at flea markets.  She
designs jewelry.

You will find that a lot of creative children start at a very young age.
The creativity seems to flow from them.  I recall several conversations over
the years on h-costume... a lot of people said they started sewing around
age 4.

My techie son showed his talents at age 3 or 4.  He walked around with a
screw driver unscrewing all the door knobs and then putting them back on.
He also liked to hide a lot... under tables, in boxes. etc.  Who would know
that he gets paid to do that now.  He wears black all the time, because
techies are not supposed to be seen.  He also build sets and takes them
apart.  Another thing that benefits him from toddler to now, is that he can
sleep anywhere.  Since techies are "they are the first to come and the last
to leave" (quoting Jackson Browne) their days are long so they catch catnaps
whenever they can.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shoes
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:09:29 -0500
Status: RO

On Saturday 28 December 2002 01:10 am, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >http://www.westernweddingboots.com/swdshop/agora.cgi?&cart_id=&p_id=0045
>
> Pretty good.  Nice heel.

Agreed.  Though I actually found a similar boot in the Lerner catalog in 
April, for $39.00 USD....


> >http://shop.store.yahoo.com/a-and-b-studios/shoeslacupbr.html


> Pretty good.  Not so good heel, and lose the ribbon laces.


Agree about losing the ribbon laces.  Think the heel is unsalvagably modern 
(in fact, it's a turn-of-the millennium heel--I never saw that type until it 
started to become common, on women's shoes and boots, around the year 2000).  
I have no clue, off hand, whether damask-type fabrics were used for boots in 
the Victorian period.


> >http://www.fugawee.com/CW%20Women's.htm
>
> Yes.

Agreed.  Of course, this design seems to have been made as an intentional 
reproduction of a lady's Victorian boot.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:20:54 -0500
Status: RO

        I had the progressive lens several years ago and hated them.  I
was always trying to find the right place to look through.  There was no
side to side sight with mine.  If they have improved so I don't have to
turn my head from side to side to see anything that isn't right in front
of me, I might be interested in trying them again.  

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:13:56 -0500
Status: RO

On Saturday 28 December 2002 05:13 pm, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Rowena,
>
> Strange that your state is trying to push out tech/life skills.  My state
> is trying to push them.  I have seen this in the news a lot and they are
> running commercials on TV.  Most of the school systems in our metro have a
> technical school so kids attend and learn a trade.  It has come to the
> realization that not all kids go to college and someday we will need to
> replace the baby boomers in the work force.

Of course, which state we're talking about may make all the difference.  Which 
two states are we comparing here?



> As for the Home Ec.  I think it is really important that kids learn these
> life skills.  Not only the sewing but how to cook, etiquette, etc.  Most
> kids are not learning it at home.  When my kid's friends come over, they
> want to stay for dinner because so few of them sit down with a family for
> dinner.  These kids will volunteer to help cook and wash dishes.  People
> would be shocked to see how many of these kids have never done a chore at
> home.  I have been teaching these teenagers how to cook and wash dishes. 
> My children laugh at the teenagers for volunteering.  My kids have done
> chores all their life.
>
> Before my kids go to prom, I have an etiquette talk with my sons' dates.
> Most kids do not know how to tip a waiter, manners when formal dining, how
> to walk and act in a formal dress.  I teach them how to walk up and down
> stairs in a formal.   These were life skills I learned in Home Ec. 

I never took Home Ec.  My mother taught me how to cook, and I learned most of 
my sewing skills on my own.  (On the other hand, I never went to the prom, 
either).  :-)

>I have
> found that kids get scared when they don't know what is expected of them.
> Someone has to teach them... or one day you might see them falling over
> their dress at the Oscars.

Kind of academic, since it's now possible to wear formal pants to the Oscars.  


> My oldest son is a manager of a Starbucks and hires a lot of young adults.
> He said they are so lacking in life skills.

The tragedy here, in my opinion, is that they are obviously not being taught 
either at home *or* in school.  Personally, I think it is much better for 
important things like basic living skills to be taught at home, but am 
inclined to agree that where many kids' homes are falling short in this 
regard, it is better that someone, even the public schools, take up the 
slack.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 23:28:00 +0000
Status: RO

Oh gods my memory for trivia without being able to do a substantiation 
quote -
if,and only if I remember correctly crepe begun to be manufactured/used 
in garments in the early 19thC.Around 1815 and was certainly in use by 
the 30's.I'm sorry to say that I don't recall  any more.

Marcus

On Saturday, December 28, 2002, at 06:22  pm, Stevie Gamble wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have been brooding over my fabric stash, and realised that I haven't
> the faintest idea of when crepe (wool or silk) came into use in
> western Europe. Can anyone enlighten me, please?
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:23:21 -0500
Status: RO

        I happened on the making of BA last night at midnight when I
couldn't put down a project I am working on.  They will most likely
repeat it - they repeat everything.  It was just listed as Benedict
Arnold in the paper, not that it was a documentary or anything else.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 23:41:35 +0000
Status: RO



> On Saturday 28 December 2002 04:35 pm, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>> I checked my books and did not see an exact date.  The earliest I have 
>> seen
>> is a 1900 wedding dress in a museum.

Then I defer to your ref.books Penny.
Was it Sarsanet (Sarsenet the COD gives it as derived from ' drap 
sarrasinois' the OF for 'Saracen cloth' - don't give much of a 
definition for crepe,unfortunately) that was used in the early 19thC?
I seem to remember that black armbands of crepe were used during morning 
periods by the Victorians.Ah well just stove my head in for me will ya!

Marcus.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Robbin
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 23:43:33 +0000
Status: RO

Huh a real comfort to me Robin. ; >>>

Marcus.

On Saturday, December 28, 2002, at 10:36  pm, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> Penny and others may be relieved to know that you don't harm your vision
> from doing needlework or other close work. You might get eyestrain or
> headaches from too much close work (or computer work, or work in poor
> light), but you don't damage your eyes.
>
> Everyone's eyes start going through changes around age 40, regardless of
> what you use your eyes for. It's called presbyopia. It causes a form of
> farsightedness -- that is, you find it easier to see things farther away
> than close up, which is what makes some people want to hold a newspaper 
> at
> arm's length. But it's not the same mechanism that causes farsightedness
> or nearsightedness earlier in life.
>
> Those of us who are nearsighted or farsighted since our youth have an
> overly long or short eyeball, so light coming through the front of the 
> eye
> reaches its optimal focus point a bit forward or back of the retina
> instead of directly on it. Glasses can fix that by adding some focusing
> power before the light comes into the eye; you can do the same with 
> laser
> surgery on the cornea (the clear dome over the pupil). Presbyopia has to
> do with changes in the eye's lens, which is inside the eye, and does 
> most
> of the focusing by bending to give you near and distance vision. The 
> lens
> gets stiffer with age, making it hard for the lens to bend to the degree
> it needs for close-up focus. And the aging process causes the lens to
> change shape more slowly, too, which accounts for the problems Marcus
> described in the speed of adjustment when you shift vision from far to
> near and back.
>
> It's possible to be both myopic (nearsighted) and presbyopic; I am. In
> other words, I have trouble seeing both distance and close-up now, 
> without
> glasses. Sometimes if you're nearsighted, your nearsightedness will 
> cancel
> out some of the developing farsightedness, but it won't stay that way, 
> as
> presbyopia worsens through your early 60s or so before stabilizing. I
> entered Varilux land (progressive lenses) last year, though I had 
> problems
> earlier than that. Good concept, but I got a bad prescription, and I'll 
> be
> getting it replaced shortly. I'm still pulling off my glasses to do 
> close
> work, and my eyes have trouble adjusting to read the numbers on the VCR
> clock if I'm sewing in front of the TV :-P
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 23:53:26 +0100
Status: RO


And here I was wondering why they were talking about French pancakes.

--Robin

Yahoooooooooo Robin, you made my day!!!!!!!!!!!
Laughs.........


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:57:18 -0500
Status: RO

Marcus,

I have been wearing bifocals for about ten years.  The doctor said that
between 30-45 a lot of people have to go to bifocals.  The eyes changes a
lot during this time.  The first day I got them, I went on a 500 mile road
trip.  OMG, I had the worse time driving.  I am also nearsighted, so I had
to look out of the top portion of the lens for driving.  By the end of the
trip, I was adjusted.

As for sewing... I kept taking my glasses off to do needlework for years.  I
even had glasses made just for the reading... what a waste of money.  I also
had problems reading on the computer.  I would arch my head back to read on
the top of the screen.  Oh, the problems I had with my neck for doing
this!!!!!  The #1 problem is that I let my glasses slide down my nose when
working.  Last year my doctor suggested that when I am working to make sure
my glasses are pushed up to the correct position and scroll the text near
the lower half of the screen.  What a big improvement!!!  I also started
doing this when sewing.  I find myself taking off my glasses less.  If I
need to see something upclose and can't see them through the bifocals, I
grab a magnifying glass instead of taking my glasses off.  My son gave me a
neat magnifying glass last year for Christmas with a light in it!!!!!!!  It
is a wonderful thing to have!!!  He got it at Radio Shack.

Think about this... the more you take off your glasses to do close work, the
more you are weakening your close-up eyesight.  Previously, I was changing
glasses every year.  Bifocals in the U.S. cost between $150 to $200.  Ouch!
Since I stopped taking my glasses off to work, my close vision has changed
very little this year.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:08:19 -0500
Status: RO

Sue,

Why don't you volunteer at the 4-H, Girl Scouts, or Big Sister/Big Brother
programs.  They would love to have someone like you to teach children these
skills.  4-H has changed from what it was years ago.  I live in a metro and
4H has people come into the classrooms to teach life skills.  There is also
govt. funding for after-school programs to teach children's classes.  I am
sure with your talents, they would love for you to teach a class.

The future of our industry depends on us teaching the next generation.  I
can not describe the thrill it is to a teacher to see a light go off in a
young student's head.  Your gift to the future is teaching what you have
learned.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:11:05 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, Cathy, the great thing about this room is that there is space to make
more built in bookcases!!!!!!  I just need to convince these two sons to go
away to college!  LOL!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 14:34:17 -0800
Status: RO


>I am looking for good pictures of Urûk-hai from Lord of the Rings.
>In April there is a Fantasy fair in the Netherlands and my husband is 
>thinking of going as a Urûk-hai.
>
>I found this site with pictures
>http://www.quintessentialwebsites.com/lordoftherings/movieshots_bk2/fotr_b2c10_scene2.htm
>
>But I am surching for better pictures of what they are wearing.

Have you heard about <LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com> ?  All they do is 
re-create LOtR costumes.  You might want to join that.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 14:27:23 -0800
Status: RO


>Do you use the bifocals to sew with all the time?How do they help you in 
>everyday senarios?
>
>My vision has been/is changing over the past couple of years and I find 
>myself ripping off my specs to sew and having to put them on if checking 
>something at a distance.What is driving me nuts are the few 'minutes' - 
>probably only seconds, its taking to focus when I change the visual 
>range.I have no problem sitting for hours sewing by hand without my glasses.
>My Optician isn't keen to get me set-up with bifocals as yet since the 
>'readings' are so slight compared with the average sight.(Having found 
>this a bit dangerous when rushing down stairs in public/areas I'm not 
>familiar with due to the lack of speed with which my vision adjusts,I am 
>concerned.)

I have been in bi-focals since age ten, and don't remember ever having this 
problem.  I just did a check as I sit here typing, and there is no 
change-time between my upper lenses and my lower ones.  Not that this 
observation helps you.  If I had the money, I would be in tri-focals by now.


Kayta

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:10:01 -0800
Status: RO

Bjarne og Leif Drews writes, in a message sent 09:57 PM 12/28/02 +0100:
>Hi.
>It is rather funny how different we are. Many of you are fabricoholic.
>I only have 3 fabrics in my stash wich i dont know what to make of right
>now.
>This is all i have in store...........
>I always make the fabric to a costume, just after i baught it...........

So you would understand, and the rest of us think it hilarious, when I tell 
the funniest thing I ever heard a customer say in a cloth store.  She said 
she wouldn't buy a particular piece of fabric because it wouldn't fit into 
her fabric drawer (singular).

I have a huge fabric stash, plus a huge yarn stash, which I am slowly 
getting rid of.  My goal this year is to get from two storage units down to 
one storage unit.  Anyone want to volunteer to help me with the clean-out 
process?  You get all the fabric I decide I don't want, plus 
lunch/dinner.  The last person got a station-wagon-load of boxes of fabric, 
and now I have 4 more boxes waiting for the thrift store or for the 
quilters at my doll club.

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:17:17 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne,

I am not a fabricolic either.  I purchase when the fabric is going to be
used immediately.  I have been to stores with fabricolics... they actually
drool on fabrics.  And you can never get them to leave the stores <glaring
at Linda Rice>.

On the other hand... I am a person who gets kicked out of museums and state
archives when they close.  Aren't you one of these people too Bjarne?  See I
can understand an addiction.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Fw: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:22:18 -0500
Status: RO

It is silk and is the softest fabric I have felt in my life.  I displayed
the gown for exhibit and could not keep my hands off of the fabric.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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From: marcus findlay-arthur <marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net>
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 00:19:12 +0000
Status: RO

>
> I have been wearing bifocals for about ten years.  The doctor said that
> between 30-45 a lot of people have to go to bifocals.

Mine started somewhere around 38 but since moving to the UK its become 
more obvious to me.

>  The eyes changes a
> lot during this time.  The first day I got them, I went on a 500 mile 
> road
> trip.  OMG, I had the worse time driving.

I can imagine.Its quite nerve inducing going thru' it those sort of 
situations.(Who says I've got control issues hehehe)

>   I am also nearsighted,

So am I - contacts used to work stella in the graphic studios but over 
the years,all that bother lost a lot of charm and I don't mind wearing 
specs most of the time.

>  so I had
> to look out of the top portion of the lens for driving.  By the end of 
> the
> trip, I was adjusted.

Sounds good.
>
> As for sewing... I kept taking my glasses off to do needlework for 
> years.

Uh huh.

>   I
> even had glasses made just for the reading... what a waste of money.

Always seems to be the case.

>   I also
> had problems reading on the computer.  I would arch my head back to 
> read on
> the top of the screen.  Oh, the problems I had with my neck for doing
> this!!!!!

Snap.

>  The #1 problem is that I let my glasses slide down my nose when
> working.

Having dainty little noses aren't much help.I'd give anything for a real 
conker  with a bump to rest them on.

>  Last year my doctor suggested that when I am working to make sure
> my glasses are pushed up to the correct position and scroll the text 
> near
> the lower half of the screen.  What a big improvement!!!  I also started
> doing this when sewing.

I'll try it.
I'll try  anything right now.

>   I find myself taking off my glasses less.  If I
> need to see something upclose and can't see them through the bifocals, I
> grab a magnifying glass instead of taking my glasses off.  My son gave 
> me a
> neat magnifying glass last year for Christmas with a light in 
> it!!!!!!!  It
> is a wonderful thing to have!!!  He got it at Radio Shack.

Interesting - I'll keep mine on when I'm working too and see what 
happens.
>
> Think about this... the more you take off your glasses to do close 
> work, the
> more you are weakening your close-up eyesight.  Previously, I was 
> changing
> glasses every year.  Bifocals in the U.S. cost between $150 to $200.  
> Ouch!

My specs and I got two pairs eighteen months ago - incase I sat on 
one,as I've been known to do,cost me something like over £500's.They 
aren't fancy by any stretch of the imagination.Just plain distance 
glasses.

> Since I stopped taking my glasses off to work, my close vision has 
> changed
> very little this year.

Thanks I'll keep this in mind.

Marcus.


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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:26:38 -0500
Status: RO

Sorry... Rowena is in New York and I am in Virginia.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Valmont
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:27:45 -0500
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Thanks Lalah!  I watch A&E a lot, so I hope I catch it.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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Subject: Re: Fw: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 00:26:09 +0000
Status: RO


On Saturday, December 28, 2002, at 11:22  pm, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> It is silk and is the softest fabric I have felt in my life.  I 
> displayed
> the gown for exhibit and could not keep my hands off of the fabric.

My Mother had a stash of 'special' things as I was growing up and when 
she realised I had this 'thing' for textiles she'd show me various 
treasures.One group was crepe.She had crepe silk underwear from the 20's 
and 30's that were the most amazing things to touch.I imagine they were 
also very comfortable to wear as they wear quite roomy by the standards 
of the fashions back in the 60's.Very very beautiful and you know I 
haven't ever found that sort of quality since.

Marcus.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:31:23 -0500
Status: RO

Marcus,

I will change that... I do remember Victorians using crepe as a morning
fabric.  Duh, I even have an article online about it...
http://www.costumegallery.com/LHJ/June_1895/Mourning/p19Intro.htm  In the
article it is spelled crape.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 00:33:38 +0000
Status: RO

Years ago I inherited a book from my local library that was a costume 
and textile dictionary.It was fab.gave you a bit of the background to 
the fabric,place and year it was first produced that sort of thing - has 
anyone else run into that type of ref.book in the last couple of years?

Concentrating on Eastern/Asian cultures I haven't kept up with Western 
fashion history as I should have.

Marcus.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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I love my progressive lenses, too, and wear them for most chores.  I 
occasionally feel the need to remove them and get up really close when I am, 
say, doing delicate ripping out.  I love the new technology in glasses--not 
only the progressive lenses, but also the super thin ones.  I am so 
near-sighted that my glasses used to be heavy and clunky.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I love my progressive lenses, too, and wear them for most chores.&nbsp; I occasionally feel the need to remove them and get up really close when I am, say, doing delicate ripping out.&nbsp; I love the new technology in glasses--not only the progressive lenses, but also the super thin ones.&nbsp; I am so near-sighted that my glasses used to be heavy and clunky.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 12/28/2002 5:45:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net writes:


> begun to be manufactured/used 
> in garments in the early 19thC.Around 1815 and was certainly in use by 
> the 30's.

I have seen three gowns from sometime in the early 19th century (pre-1820, I 
would guess, by the cut) that are made of silk crepe.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/28/2002 5:45:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">begun to be manufactured/used <BR>
in garments in the early 19thC.Around 1815 and was certainly in use by <BR>
the 30's.</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I have seen three gowns from sometime in the early 19th century (pre-1820, I would guess, by the cut) that are made of silk crepe.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 00:52:08 +0000
Status: RO

Hehehe and I was just heading off to bed too.
You're right it was spelled 'crape' - the COD gives it as a gauze-like 
fabric with wrinkled surface usually of black silk or imitation silk 
(other colours were known as crepe.)

Having just checked my Nancy Bradfield,Costume in detail 1730-1930 while 
there are a few gauze frocks in the 1830's the earliest reference to 
crape is as trimming on a black silk mantle circa 1870-75.What isn't 
clear is whether this was worn for mourning since N.B.surmises that it 
was for such occasions and describes the garment as 'well worn.'Perhaps 
there were a lot of funerals.

Marcus.

On Saturday, December 28, 2002, at 11:31  pm, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Marcus,
>
> I will change that... I do remember Victorians using crepe as a morning
> fabric.  Duh, I even have an article online about it...
> http://www.costumegallery.com/LHJ/June_1895/Mourning/p19Intro.htm  In 
> the
> article it is spelled crape.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
>
>
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In a message dated 12/28/2002 5:51:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net writes:


> Sarsanet 

I believe "sarsanet" is shot silk--that is, one color threads in the warp and 
another in the weft.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/28/2002 5:51:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Sarsanet </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I believe "sarsanet" is shot silk--that is, one color threads in the warp and another in the weft.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:57:33 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I'll help!  *waves*  

I only have seven big tubs of fabric, and I'm going to end up
donating a lot of it to my school this year anyways, so I'll need a new 
infusion... and anything else you don't want I can drop off at school for 
fellow poor students!

.heather.

> 
> Bjarne og Leif Drews writes, in a message sent 09:57 PM 12/28/02 +0100:
> >Hi.
> >It is rather funny how different we are. Many of you are fabricoholic.
> >I only have 3 fabrics in my stash wich i dont know what to make of right
> >now.
> >This is all i have in store...........
> >I always make the fabric to a costume, just after i baught it...........
> 
> So you would understand, and the rest of us think it hilarious, when I tell 
> the funniest thing I ever heard a customer say in a cloth store.  She said 
> she wouldn't buy a particular piece of fabric because it wouldn't fit into 
> her fabric drawer (singular).
> 
> I have a huge fabric stash, plus a huge yarn stash, which I am slowly 
> getting rid of.  My goal this year is to get from two storage units down to 
> one storage unit.  Anyone want to volunteer to help me with the clean-out 
> process?  You get all the fabric I decide I don't want, plus 
> lunch/dinner.  The last person got a station-wagon-load of boxes of fabric, 
> and now I have 4 more boxes waiting for the thrift store or for the 
> quilters at my doll club.
> 
> Kayta
> 
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
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>       )   ((((((
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> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:54:27 -0800
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>I have no clue, off hand, whether damask-type fabrics were used for boots in
>the Victorian period.

I have seen originals done in damask, and one done in glitz brocade.  Some 
were embroidered.  Most, of course, were plain.


Kayta

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:52:29 -0800
Status: RO


>It is so good of you to let the 4 y.o. that you babysit play with the
>buttons.  Maybe you can make button bracelets and necklaces.

I didn't say I let her keep the buttons, I just let her play with them, and 
the beads.  I got a big cafeteria tray to dump them on, one jar at a time, 
where she sorts them, lines them up, and otherwise plays with them.  Some, 
like the vintage glass or rhinestone ones, she only gets to look at in 
their jars.

This kid goes to a Montessori pre-school, and does most of her bead 
stringing there.  Sometimes we go to thrift stores/yard sales for more 
necklaces for her, and last night she picked out one made of big plastic 
pony beads.  My play-with-it doll has several strings of cheap plastic 
'throw beads' she, or the kid, can wear.

And of course I provided the kid with a dress-up box for use here.  This 
box has a pair of kid-size shoes (beaded velvet, flat heels, slip-on), and 
several lengths of sheer, glitz, and lace fabrics.  The other fabric thing 
we do is throw a long piece of cloth over two chairs to make a tent.


Kayta

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:11:00 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- Penny Ladnier wrote:
> There is also a very lengthy series from the History
> Channel about Elizabeth
> I.  I see if airing frequently.  Is that the one you
> are talking about?  I
> taped it when it aired the first time.

I don't know if they are the same programs or not, but
I'd be surprised if they were. The program on the DVD
was made by A&E in 1996. It has 3 authors/historians
(all women) talking about Elizabeth's life. 

I vaguely remember having watched something about
Elizabeth I on the History Channel but I don't
remember these particular paintings. I am not always
able to remember *where* I've seen a painting, but I'm
pretty good at remembering that I *have* seen a
particular painting--and I don't remember ever having
seen portraits of Elizabeth as a small child (besides
the famous one of her in the red gown) or the one of
Jane Grey. 

I don't have a DVD drive in my computer, but a friend
of mine does. I'm taking the disk to her house next
week; we're going to try to get a screen shot of the
paintings. If we're successful, I'll post them.

kate



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Is this film playing near anyone? Has anyone seen it. It sounds divine!

And what about the new "Nicholas Nickleby"? I remember the 8 hour stage play 
fondly.

Then there's also "Chicago".


I wish some of these films would reach us down here in the boonies instead of 
the stupid "Lord of the Rings" junk on 15 screens!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Is this film playing near anyone? Has anyone seen it. It sounds divine!<BR>
<BR>
And what about the new "Nicholas Nickleby"? I remember the 8 hour stage play fondly.<BR>
<BR>
Then there's also "Chicago".<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
I wish some of these films would reach us down here in the boonies instead of the stupid "Lord of the Rings" junk on 15 screens!</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?-- silly
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:05:00 -0700
Status: RO

And I thought maybe it referred to the process involved in moving
between bases...<g>
--sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 28 Dec 2002, Lyn Greaves- home wrote:
> 
> > OK, you know that you aren't awake yet when "date crepe introduced?"
> > doesn't make you think of fabric. . . . and you wonder why on EARTH
> > they are talking about crimes on the h-costume list. . .
> 
> And here I was wondering why they were talking about French pancakes.
> 
> --Robin
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 21:11:48 -0500
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On Saturday 28 December 2002 06:11 pm, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Oh, Cathy, the great thing about this room is that there is space to make
> more built in bookcases!!!!!!  I just need to convince these two sons to go
> away to college!  LOL!

<turning even greener with envy>  I want to buy your house.  Where do you 
live?  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 21:14:39 -0500
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On Saturday 28 December 2002 06:54 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >I have no clue, off hand, whether damask-type fabrics were used for boots
> > in the Victorian period.
>
> I have seen originals done in damask, and one done in glitz brocade. 

Really.  Interesting.  But then, Victorian is far from being my main area of 
interest.

>Some
> were embroidered.  Most, of course, were plain.

That would be what I'd expect.  

Thanks for the information.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 20:52:37 -0500
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Kayta,

Are you holding all the buttons too!!!!  How many jars of buttons do you
have?  Maybe you fabric assistant needs to help in that department too.
LOL!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 21:21:02 -0500
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Cathy,

I am in Chesterfield, Virginia.  A suburb of Richmond.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 22:07:36 EST
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I wear the progressive lenses and have now for almost 2 years.  When I got 
them I was told all these horror stories, like you can only see clearly 
directly ahead, it will take days or maybe weeks to get used to them.
I can see clearly when I move my eyes and look put of other parts of the 
lens.  Also it only took about 10 minutes to get used to them, for me.
I work with a few other people who wear progressive lenses and they all had 
the same type of experiences I have had.
I love them and since they are the newer verilux they are lighter than any 
other glasses I have every worn.
Also I spend about 10 hours a day at work on a computer with no eye strain 
any more.
The down side was the expense...almost $600 before my insurance paid for 2/3 
of the cost.

Love my lenses
Osmondia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I wear the progressive lenses and have now for almost 2 years.&nbsp; When I got them I was told all these horror stories, like you can only see clearly directly ahead, it will take days or maybe weeks to get used to them.<BR>
I can see clearly when I move my eyes and look put of other parts of the lens.&nbsp; Also it only took about 10 minutes to get used to them, for me.<BR>
I work with a few other people who wear progressive lenses and they all had the same type of experiences I have had.<BR>
I love them and since they are the newer verilux they are lighter than any other glasses I have every worn.<BR>
Also I spend about 10 hours a day at work on a computer with no eye strain any more.<BR>
The down side was the expense...almost $600 before my insurance paid for 2/3 of the cost.<BR>
<BR>
Love my lenses<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 19:38:32 -0800
Status: RO

Arlys,

	What are progressive lenses? Do they differ from lineless bifocals (which
is what I have)?  I found that I had to get another set of special
"close-up" bifocals for working with my computer at work because the
lineless bifocals I normally wear didn't have enough area for the close-up
required.  It cost a bit, but I am quite happy to change between them for
everyday stuff like driving or watching a movie to needlework or computer
stuff.

Regina
   (Hope you are having a good set of Holidays!)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 12:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny


I have progressive lenses and use them when I embroider. Being as I tend
to watch TV and work at the same time, they are lovely.

Arlys

On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:32:12 +0000 marcus findlay-arthur
<marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net> writes:
>
> > I had the same problem as I have gotten older.  When I had big
> framed
> > glasses 10 years ago, it was not a problem.  The bifocals worked
> > great.  Now
> > with small lenses it is hard to sew with them.  I think I used up
> my
> > close
> > vision from so many years of doing fine needlework.  Also from
> going on
> > marathon needlework stitching sprees.  (see what I did before I
> meet you
> > all)
>
> Penny,


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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 19:54:38 -0800
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>Are you holding all the buttons too!!!!  How many jars of buttons do you
>have?  Maybe you fabric assistant needs to help in that department too.
>LOL!

Hmmm - what did you have in mind?


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 19:56:44 -0800
Status: RO


>         What are progressive lenses? Do they differ from lineless 
> bifocals (which
>is what I have)?  I found that I had to get another set of special
>"close-up" bifocals for working with my computer at work because the
>lineless bifocals I normally wear didn't have enough area for the close-up
>required.  It cost a bit, but I am quite happy to change between them for
>everyday stuff like driving or watching a movie to needlework or computer
>stuff.

I never had progressive bifocals, because I didn't want to give up any 
space to the progressive part.  I've been wearing the kind with lines for 
so long, I have no problem with each new pair.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 20:29:53 -0800
Status: RO

They're not lineless bifocals per se--at least, I've never heard them
described that way. The lense is set up so that you can look through
different parts of it and see, as the ads say, "near, far, and in
between." I have presbyopia and am nearsighted as well, and love mine.
They came with a lesson on how to use them--it's a snap, but takes a
little getting used to because it's not like looking through normal
glasses. A friend of mine has a pair and says she finds walking with them
difficult, but I don't have that problem. 

One of the nice things is that you don't have to change out one pair of
glasses for another. 

Regina, when you have time, could you please drop me a note off-list and
fill me in? Be lovely to hear from you. :-)

Arlys
Cley@juno.com

On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 19:38:32 -0800 "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
writes:
> Arlys,
> 
> 	What are progressive lenses? Do they differ from lineless 
> bifocals (which
> is what I have)?  I found that I had to get another set of special
> "close-up" bifocals for working with my computer at work because the
> lineless bifocals I normally wear didn't have enough area for the 
> close-up
> required.  It cost a bit, but I am quite happy to change between 
> them for
> everyday stuff like driving or watching a movie to needlework or 
> computer
> stuff.
> 
> Regina
>    (Hope you are having a good set of Holidays!)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley
> Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 12:39 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
> 
> 
> I have progressive lenses and use them when I embroider. Being as I 
> tend
> to watch TV and work at the same time, they are lovely.
> 
> Arlys
> 
> On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:32:12 +0000 marcus findlay-arthur
> <marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net> writes:
> >
> > > I had the same problem as I have gotten older.  When I had big
> > framed
> > > glasses 10 years ago, it was not a problem.  The bifocals worked
> > > great.  Now
> > > with small lenses it is hard to sew with them.  I think I used 
> up
> > my
> > > close
> > > vision from so many years of doing fine needlework.  Also from
> > going on
> > > marathon needlework stitching sprees.  (see what I did before I
> > meet you
> > > all)
> >
> > Penny,
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 01:01:45 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 28 Dec 2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> <on glasses:> I also had problems reading on the computer.  I would
> arch my head back to read on the top of the screen.  Oh, the problems
> I had with my neck for doing this!!!!!

When I got my progressives, I told the ophthalmologist that I spent most
of my day working on a computer, and I ended up with glasses that had
their adjustment areas in different places than the standard. I don't
remember whether it was part of the prescription or if he just talked to
the optician (the glasses were sold in the same office). So many people
work on computers now I'm surprised they don't routinely allow for this,
or at least ask patients about it. But it's worth bringing up when you're
getting your prescription, and again when you're getting measured for your
glasses.

My distance and computer-screen prescriptions are fine, but my close-up
adjustment is way off. Either my eyes changed right out of the
prescription within a week after I got the lenses, or they weren't
refracted right to start with. I suspect the latter. New doctor for me
this time...

> Think about this... the more you take off your glasses to do close
> work, the more you are weakening your close-up eyesight.  Previously,
> I was changing glasses every year.  Bifocals in the U.S. cost between
> $150 to $200.  Ouch! Since I stopped taking my glasses off to work, my
> close vision has changed very little this year.

It's a common belief that close work weakens your sight, but I can assure
you that the medical literature says this is not the case. (I should note
here that I keep food on the table as a medical editor, and by sheer
coincidence I have just spent the last week editing a 100-page report on
"The Aging Eye," which addresses this very question, among others.) It's
actually normal for many people to need frequent changes in lens
prescription during the height of the age-related changes; this will slow
down on its own after a while.

There's another common belief that *wearing* glasses will hurt your eyes
and you should take off your glasses and let your eyes "rest"
periodically. This contradicts the idea that *not* using glasses can
damage your eyes, of course. Both are groundless worries. So, Penny, you
can do all the close work you want, with or without glasses, and it won't
change your eyesight ... your eyesight will change all on its own, at its
own rate ;-)  But you can avoid eyestrain by having good light on your
work, taking periodic breaks, and keeping glare down. The magnifier is
also a *really* good idea. Thanks for the recommendation to Radio Shack --
I was thinking about getting a lighted magnifier.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 02:25:47 -0500
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Kayta,

I was thinking after I raided Sue's house for books, that I could raid yours
for buttons.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 02:32:04 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks Robin!  My eyesight starting getting worse when I did a crosstitch
project on black.  I got had so much blurred vision and headaches.  I swore
to never work on black again.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 23:41:11 -0800
Status: RO


>  But you can avoid eyestrain by having good light on your
>work, taking periodic breaks, and keeping glare down.

What bothers me most is the eyestrain headaches.  (That, and the tendonitis 
aching in my wrist after too much handwork.)  Both of those require 
resting, or at least stopping to take breaks.

When I was young I was told that if I ate lots of carrots, and didn't sit 
too close to the TV, I wouldn't need glasses.  They lied - and I was into 
bifocals when I was 10.  Decades later, when I asked a pediatrician about 
my kids' eyes, he asked if their father wore glasses.  When I said he did, 
the doctor said the kids probably would too.  One needed them by age 14 or 
so, and the other one doesn't (yet?).

>The magnifier is
>also a *really* good idea. Thanks for the recommendation to Radio Shack --
>I was thinking about getting a lighted magnifier.

I was appalled at the price of the ones in the fabric stores, so I got one 
at Fry's, a local electronics store.  It cost less than $20.  I think they 
intended it for people who solder tiny electronic parts at home.  It takes 
an ordinary light bulb, and screws onto the edge of my work surface.

Kayta

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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 23:42:56 -0800
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>I was thinking after I raided Sue's house for books, that I could raid yours
>for buttons.

Come on over!  The San Francisco Bay Area gets no snow in the winter.


Kayta

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 03:15:31 -0500
Status: RO

Kayta,

The magnifying glass that my son got at Radio Shack last year costs about
$6.

When I would go on marathons of stitching... sometimes 24 hours straight, my
eyes would burn, and fingers and wrists hurt.  I would get headaches too.
You have to give yourself breaks, if you don't you will get into the trouble
I have ended up in with my back.  Over doing it will catch up with you.
BTW, I was on the computer to long on my last spree earlier today.  My back
and legs hurt so much I had to lay down for four hours.  I know it is really
hard to stop and take breaks.  Especially when you really love what you do.
My motto used to be work until I hurt.  Now I have had to learn to stop
before I hurt.

Both of my parents wore glasses and out of six siblings, three wear glasses.
My husband wears contacts and I wear glasses, out of our five sons, three
wear glasses.  I started wearing glasses for near-sighted when I was 13.  In
3rd grade I was told I needed them but my family couldn't afford them.  On
the other hand, everyone in my husband's family wears glasses.  My husband
is legally blind without his contacts.  Thank goodness our kids' eyesight is
not as bad as their dad's.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Status: RO

To Kayta=

Your mention of a doll club interests me...I just did a major purge of 
fabric from my disorderly piles and am looking for somewhere/one 
interested in it.  Is your group in the SF Bay Area perchance?  And, 
would they like more donations???

Thanks for your time,

Theresa Eacker

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
  (Pruning)

 and now I have 4 more boxes waiting for the thrift store or for 
> the quilters at my doll club.
> 
> Kayta
> 
>    //// \\\
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>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 10:20:10 +0100
Status: RO

Thanks!

This is just what I needed.
I think I have enough information to start designing :-) .

Now I have to find someting for my self.
Somehow I don't like the elven costumes... :-(
And I don't look like Eowyn.

Greetings,
        Deredere

Stevie Gamble wrote:

>Deredere wrote:
>---------
>I am looking for good pictures of Urûk-hai from Lord of the Rings.
>In April there is a Fantasy fair in the Netherlands and my husband is
>thinking of going as a Urûk-hai.
>
>I found this site with pictures
>http://www.quintessentialwebsites.com/lordoftherings/movieshots_bk2/fo
>tr_b2c10_scene2.htm
>
>But I am surching for better pictures of what they are wearing.
>--------------------------
>
>Well, you could try:
>
>http://www.larp.com/orcs/
>
>which details someone else's efforts at reconstructing the Uruck-hai,
>but probably the best way to do it is to sit in front of the dvd
>pausing on the relevant frames. If you don't have it then perhaps your
>husband could buy it for you on the grounds that it's absolutely vital
>to making him a costume
>:-)
>
>best wishes
>Stevie
>
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>  
>



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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 05:53:58 -0500
Status: RO

At 08:00 PM 12/27/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> > -- Mara
>i'm not sure what your local jo-annes is selling dupione for, but you may
>want to look here first:
>
>http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-silk
>s-promotionally-priced-silk-dupioni.html
>
>please note that the width is 54" wide.
>
>laurie

Thanks!  Yes, I'm drooling over a few of the colors.... ;)

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 06:12:43 -0500
Status: RO

I've been purging a lot of my old books by reselling them on 
Amazon.com.  And before anyone gets excited, they're not generally 
costume-related, sorry, except for one on NA Beadwork:
http://s1.amazon.com/exec/varzea/ts/exchange-glance/Y04Y0293923Y4083348/104-5474921-0526339

It makes me feel better to at least get _something_ for them!  I'm still 
running out of bookshelf space, but not quite so quickly ;)  I'm trying to 
buy quality, not quantity, these days.

-- Mara


At 12:22 AM 12/28/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>To Penny-
>
>Thank you for the invaluable tips about accruing books for the library.
>I tend to be impatient, or get excited about a new book, and fork over the 
>full price too willingly.  And, boy, do they conquer territory easily - 
>I've already purged all the music books I owned and am now working on 
>craft books but they still demand more space!! Ah well, the joy is as much 
>in the hunt as the capture, so I'll work at becoming more penurious about 
>the new stuff!!
>
>Theresa Eacker

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 06:25:34 -0500
Status: RO

At 05:13 PM 12/28/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Rowena,
>
>Strange that your state is trying to push out tech/life skills.  My state is
>trying to push them.  I have seen this in the news a lot and they are
>running commercials on TV.  Most of the school systems in our metro have a
>technical school so kids attend and learn a trade.  It has come to the
>realization that not all kids go to college and someday we will need to
>replace the baby boomers in the work force.
(snip)

That's so true.  I've also heard a few stories in the news about how more 
boys (particularly) are choosing to take computer classes and get right 
into a computer career rather than going to four years of college.  I can't 
say I blame them; for a teenager, the idea of earning $40K/year before 
you're twenty could seem awfully appealing, if you like working with computers.

But I also remember hearing a few stories about how some Silicon Valley 
computer geeks (with or without college educations) had no clue how to act 
at fancy dinners with investors, and were taking etiquette classes so they 
wouldn't embarrass themselves.  Yes, life skills ARE important.

My middle sister, who never really learned to cook or sew when she was a 
teenager (my mom taught us to sew, but we learned to cook in Home Ec, 
because mom cooks -- but nothing she makes is edible), is now learning to 
cook, sew, paint, etc.  Her hubby is learning to cook stuff from scratch, 
too; he made macaroni and cheese (his favorite) from scratch when we last 
visited them.  Given the popularity of cooking shows on TV, maybe more 
people are discovering that actual cooking is more fun than throwing 
something in the microwave?

-- Mara

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 03:48:51 -0800
Status: RO


>Your mention of a doll club interests me...I just did a major purge of 
>fabric from my disorderly piles and am looking for somewhere/one 
>interested in it.  Is your group in the SF Bay Area perchance?  And, would 
>they like more donations??

Two doll clubs, actually.  One is The Flying Phoebes, based in Fremont, and 
the other one is Gals and Dolls, based in San Jose.  Also, tho I'm no 
longer a member, the Quilt Museum in downtown San Jose often can use 
quilt-able fabric, as they sometimes do charity quilts.

Kayta

    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
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   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 23:27:54 -0500
Status: RO

Hey, Wait-a-doggone-minute! For the record, Penny, you and I never went
to a real fabric store together! We went to Carol's house to help her
reduce *her* fabric stash, because she was getting out of re-enacting.
It was a charitable visit, honest! But, we did go to a used book store,
which is my second-worst place to go. ;o> Sorry about that, but it's
YOUR fault since YOU took me there! <g>

Now, if you and I /were/ to ever go to a real fabric store, believe me
you'd need a lot more than a couple of aspirins to help you through... a
stiff shot of whiskey would be good for starters! I've been doing a lot
better, and am actually following Robin's good advice to sit down and
sew up a pile or two before I allow anything new in here. It's working,
the dining room is fabric-free (for the first time in over a year) and
there is a stack of new garments ready to go. Whee! That feels really
good! Just getting all the UFO's done was a great accomplishment.

Now, if I could just stick to the food diet as well as I'm doing with
the fabric diet, then all those clothes would look so much better on me!
<sigh> 

~Linda~
Addictive Personality Level A+


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 6:17 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets

Bjarne,

I am not a fabricolic either.  I purchase when the fabric is going to be
used immediately.  I have been to stores with fabricolics... they
actually
drool on fabrics.  And you can never get them to leave the stores
<glaring
at Linda Rice>.

On the other hand... I am a person who gets kicked out of museums and
state
archives when they close.  Aren't you one of these people too Bjarne?
See I
can understand an addiction.

Penny Ladnier



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 29 07:31:53 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 05:30:08 -0700
Status: RO


I'm very nearsighted, as many people here are.  My husband is
farsighted, which really took some getting used to!  It boggled my
mind that someone would take *off* their glasses to watch a movie or
to see the road.  He has to wear his glasses to read, or he gets a
headache.  He also gets his glasses tinted a bit because he makes his
living looking at computer screens - it supposedly helps with
eyestrain.

I have my contact lens prescription adjusted for best distance viewing
because I do a lot of archery.  I can still manage to do all of the
up-close detail work on garb and costumes without a problem, but I
think a lot of that is just having gotten used to focusing in that
close.

My joke with my doctor was since I am nearsighted and my husband
farsighted, could the kids have normal vision? :) Unfortunately, the
reality is that they will almost certainly need glasses one way or the
other.

							...eliz
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, "'Carolyn Priest-Dorman'" <capriest@cs.vassar.edu>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 00:01:08 -0500
Status: RO

I asked this question about crepe last month of Carolyn Priest-Dorman,
who is very much an authority on Medieval and Viking weaves. I'm not
really as interested in post-1450 fabrics most of the time, so any
application to later times is still not very clear. The 'second type'
may well be fine for later centuries, just not so for Medieval and
earlier. 

 Her reply to me is as follows:

>I have a question that I'm really hoping you can help me with. It 
>concerns crepe weave fabric. Is it documentable to the Middle Ages, or 
>perhaps even to the Viking era?

Weeeellllll, that depends on how you define "crepe." ;>

There are two common definitions of "crepe."  One is "tabby weave using
overspun yarns."  The effect of using the overspun yarns is that the
cloth crinkles up even though the structure is regular--kind of like the
"tracking" effect that some yarns give, only much more pronounced.  This
type of crepe weave is period to Vikings:  some fine wool crepe
fragments from Hedeby are believed to be the remains of men's poofy
pants.  Being lightweight fine wool, they're appropriate for the sort of
garment that calls for a great deal of material bunched up in a
relatively confined place.  

The other definition of "crepe" involves an irregular weave structure
(often twill-like) with no discernible repeat that is often found in
weaving manuals.  To my knowledge, this is not a medieval weave
structure.

Accordingly, in order to know whether any given commercial crepe textile
you want to use is appropriate, you'd have to dissect a bit of it and
see how it's made.  Does this help?

	Yours,
Carolyn Priest-Dorman              Þóra Sharptooth
  http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html


Hope this helps,

~Linda~


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 1:22 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?

Hi all,

I have been brooding over my fabric stash, and realised that I haven't
the faintest idea of when crepe (wool or silk) came into use in
western Europe. Can anyone enlighten me, please?

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 29 08:00:58 2002
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 13:01:25 -0000
Status: RO

Linda wrote:
----------------
I asked this question about crepe last month of Carolyn Priest-Dorman,
who is very much an authority on Medieval and Viking weaves. I'm not
really as interested in post-1450 fabrics most of the time, so any
application to later times is still not very clear. The 'second type'
may well be fine for later centuries, just not so for Medieval and
earlier. (answer continued below)
-------------------------

Many thanks; I was sure that I'd come across an early reference
somewhere, but it's easy to hallucinate on these questions:-)
The next one being, do we have any idea of the colours?

best wishes
Stevie

_______________________________________

 Her reply to me is as follows:

>I have a question that I'm really hoping you can help me with. It
>concerns crepe weave fabric. Is it documentable to the Middle Ages,
or
>perhaps even to the Viking era?

Weeeellllll, that depends on how you define "crepe." ;>

There are two common definitions of "crepe."  One is "tabby weave
using
overspun yarns."  The effect of using the overspun yarns is that the
cloth crinkles up even though the structure is regular--kind of like
the
"tracking" effect that some yarns give, only much more pronounced.
This
type of crepe weave is period to Vikings:  some fine wool crepe
fragments from Hedeby are believed to be the remains of men's poofy
pants.  Being lightweight fine wool, they're appropriate for the sort
of
garment that calls for a great deal of material bunched up in a
relatively confined place.

The other definition of "crepe" involves an irregular weave structure
(often twill-like) with no discernible repeat that is often found in
weaving manuals.  To my knowledge, this is not a medieval weave
structure.

Accordingly, in order to know whether any given commercial crepe
textile
you want to use is appropriate, you'd have to dissect a bit of it and
see how it's made.  Does this help?

Yours,
Carolyn Priest-Dorman              Þóra Sharptooth
  http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html


Hope this helps,

~Linda~


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 1:22 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?

Hi all,

I have been brooding over my fabric stash, and realised that I haven't
the faintest idea of when crepe (wool or silk) came into use in
western Europe. Can anyone enlighten me, please?

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 29 08:04:55 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 13:07:48 -0000
Status: RO

Penny wrote:

>I do remember Victorians using crepe as a morning
> fabric.

I'm sorry; I should have made my question clearer. Victorian mourning
crepe was a beastly fabric, hideous to the touch, offensive to the
nose and downright extortionately priced. Unfortunately I failed to
note the book I derived this from, since this is not my period, but
this is not the sort of crepe I had in mind. I was thinking of
beautiful and valuable wool and silk fabric...

best wishes
Stevie

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 00:31:37 -0500
Status: RO

Well, sorry, I don't know, but I can ask if you like. It would also help
if you could be a bit more specific about your preferred time periods...
and places of course! I'm learning that all questions must be prefaced
with 'when and where' before one can get a suitable answer! 

Smiles,

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 8:01 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?

Linda wrote:
----------------
I asked this question about crepe last month of Carolyn Priest-Dorman,
who is very much an authority on Medieval and Viking weaves. I'm not
really as interested in post-1450 fabrics most of the time, so any
application to later times is still not very clear. The 'second type'
may well be fine for later centuries, just not so for Medieval and
earlier. (answer continued below)
-------------------------

Many thanks; I was sure that I'd come across an early reference
somewhere, but it's easy to hallucinate on these questions:-)
The next one being, do we have any idea of the colours?

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 13:32:20 -0000
Status: RO

Linda wrote:

re colours of crepe

> Well, sorry, I don't know, but I can ask if you like. It would also
help
> if you could be a bit more specific about your preferred time
periods...
> and places of course! I'm learning that all questions must be
prefaced
> with 'when and where' before one can get a suitable answer!

Quite so; apart, that is, from when one is contemplating one's fabric
stash. Then it's more of a "what can I do with this piece of
black/navy/mustard light/heavyweight silk/wool crepe in a
non-corsetted pre-20th century European era?"

Which is probably not what you had in mind...

thanks and best wishes
Stevie

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?-- silly
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:57:07 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:30 PM -0500 12/28/02, Lyn Greaves- home wrote:
>OK, you know that you aren't awake yet when "date crepe introduced?" doesn't
>make you think of fabric. . . . and you wonder why on EARTH they are talking
>about crimes on the h-costume list. . .

Crimes?  But a "date crepe" is simply one of the dessert alternatives 
at that wonderful Breton pancake restaurant in the city ....

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 09:29:58 -0500
Status: RO

On Saturday 28 December 2002 09:21 pm, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Cathy,
>
> I am in Chesterfield, Virginia.  A suburb of Richmond.

Thanks.  And as you mentioned, Rowena lives in NY.

Very odd.  One would think that New York could use a dose of traditional 
skills more.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 07:38:08 -0700
Status: RO

That could have been muscle strain, Penny.  I got (and get) problems
like that because of the disparity in visual acuity between my two
eyes--I'm nearsighted in both, but one is much closer to normal, and the
other is almost legally blind.  The difference in focal points,
especially if I do too much, apparently places too much stress on the
"good" eye, which starts taking over more and more of the function of
the "bad" eye.  Found this out when I was...oh, 18 and a college
freshman.  I surely thought I had a brain tumor...terrible headaches,
double and triple vision, words in my textbooks moving around on the
pages, etc.  I got better glasses, and learned to adapt.
Now, of course, that I'm on the *other* side of the Evil Divide, I'm
starting to find problems such as others are describing--notable when
doing needlework and watching my (small) t.v., or when doing work at
work, and switching between looking at the computer monitor and the
(sometimes) tiny-scaled maps we use.  It's really frustrating...I've
been used to my eyes being not much more than desperately nearsighted
for 35 years (worn glasses since I was 7, and needed them earlier).  And
getting new glasses is a huge hassle....my insurance doesn't cover
visual or dental, and my eye doctor's a 3.5 hour trip away, anyway. 
*grump*
Being near-sighted sure is handy for doing really fine work, or being
able to see the threads in fabric, though! ;-)
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Thanks Robin!  My eyesight starting getting worse when I did a crosstitch
> project on black.  I got had so much blurred vision and headaches.  I swore
> to never work on black again.
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 07:41:49 -0700
Status: RO

About the only books I purge are paperbacks, which *could* account for
the nearly $200 credit I have at the local used-books store!
--sue

Kevin + Mara wrote:
> 
> I've been purging a lot of my old books by reselling them on
> Amazon.com.  And before anyone gets excited, they're not generally
> costume-related, sorry, except for one on NA Beadwork:
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 00:09:03 -0600
Status: RO

I didn't get much (costume-related) except a really pretty antique-look 
silver necklace w/red crystals.  Need to get the chain lengthened, 
tho'.  Why don't they make the neat stuff big enough for normal people to 
wear, anyway?  My main gift (from Pierre) was a bag/jar/etc. 
vacuum-sealer.  This will let me buy more stuff in bulk and vac-seal it for 
the freezer.

I got Pierre the Kyoto book (he loved it) and another costume book is on 
order.  It's a wearable art showcase album put out by Bernina and Primedia 
publications, called "Fashion and Imagination: Masquerade".  It was 
advertised in the most recent (Jan.) Sew News, phone for ordering is (800) 
590-3465.  Cost including shipping is $13.45, in case anyone is interested.

Sandy

>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 07:43:32 -0700
Status: RO

You're safe, Kayta....she still hasn't figured out how to get past the
attack l/u/m/p/s -uh- cats.  She thought maybe turkey bribes, but
they're not into people food.
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Kayta,
> 
> I was thinking after I raided Sue's house for books, that I could raid yours
> for buttons.
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I have removed my name from this list, but I'm still getting the emails. When 
I go to the site, it says I am not a member, but the emails keep coming. Can 
anyone tell me what the problem is?

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=4 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman" LANG="0"><I>I have removed my name from this list, but I'm still getting the emails. When I go to the site, it says I am not a member, but the emails keep coming. Can anyone tell me what the problem is?</I></FONT></HTML>

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 02:55:43 -0500
Status: RO

Oh. The good news is that all 3 of those colors are pretty much
universal.  Hmm, ok, so is it a plaid or pattern? If you tell us all the
details, I'm sure *somebody* here can help you figure out what to do
with it! 
One of these days I'm going to web pictures of all of my 'what can I do
with this' fabric, and ask the esteemed list for suggestions. (Hush,
Penny!)

Linda

From: h-costume-admin@indra.com On Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?

Linda wrote:

re colours of crepe

It would also help if you could be a bit more specific about your
preferred time
periods...
> and places of course! I'm learning that all questions must be
prefaced with 'when and where' before one can get a suitable answer!

Quite so; apart, that is, from when one is contemplating one's fabric
stash. Then it's more of a "what can I do with this piece of
black/navy/mustard light/heavyweight silk/wool crepe in a
non-corsetted pre-20th century European era?"

Which is probably not what you had in mind...

thanks and best wishes
Stevie




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 29 11:11:00 2002
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 16:13:14 -0000
Status: RO

Linda wrote

> Oh.

Yep. That is the usual response to fabric stash broodings; they bear
no resemblance to rational thought processes. Theoretically one should
proceed as Bjarne does; decide upon a project and buy the fabric
needed for that project. In practise I see good fabric at a good price
and I buy it, and wonder what on earth I'm going to do with it at a
later date.

>The good news is that all 3 of those colors are pretty much
> universal.  Hmm, ok, so is it a plaid or pattern?

No; plain fabrics tend to be the mainstay of my stash. That way I can
delude myself that they're much more useful, since they will go with
anything. Provided, that is, that I can ever bring myself to take
scissors to them, and , of course, can think of something to make.

> If you tell us all the
> details, I'm sure *somebody* here can help you figure out what to do
> with it!
> One of these days I'm going to web pictures of all of my 'what can I
do
> with this' fabric, and ask the esteemed list for suggestions. (Hush,
> Penny!)

Now there's a thought. The process of acquiring a web camera and
learning how to use it, and learning  how to upload things to the web,
and so on would take a goodly length of time during which it would be
perfectly justifiable not to actually cut the fabric. A sort of
festina lente approach, which has its attractions. Unfortunately I am
rapidly running out of space and need to actually use some fabric...

best wishes
Stevie





>
> Linda
>
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com On Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
>  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
>
> Linda wrote:
>
> re colours of crepe
>
> It would also help if you could be a bit more specific about your
> preferred time
> periods...
> > and places of course! I'm learning that all questions must be
> prefaced with 'when and where' before one can get a suitable answer!
>
> Quite so; apart, that is, from when one is contemplating one's
fabric
> stash. Then it's more of a "what can I do with this piece of
> black/navy/mustard light/heavyweight silk/wool crepe in a
> non-corsetted pre-20th century European era?"
>
> Which is probably not what you had in mind...
>
> thanks and best wishes
> Stevie
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 09:37:01 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:09 AM 12/27/2002 -0600, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
  My main gift (from Pierre) was a bag/jar/etc. 
>vacuum-sealer.  This will let me buy more stuff in bulk and vac-seal it for 
>the freezer.
>
Joining the caffeine deprived this morning, I read this and wondered why
one would need to freeze one's bulk notions and trim.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
margospatterns.com
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: MaryAnn Jones <mabse@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: fabric purge (Was:Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and
  fabric diets)
In-Reply-To: <3E0EB7C5.4060609@misc.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10212271623170.26357-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
 <4.3.1.2.20021228143734.050f5df0@mail.frys.com>
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 09:46:50 -0800
Status: RO

I am in the Sacramento area, and I regularly purge my fabric, patterns, 
etc.  One of the local sewing machine shops, Meisseners, collects any kind 
of sewing stuff and distributes it to local groups such as the women's 
shelter and a boy's prison that makes clothes and quilts for preemies at a 
hospital.  As I see it, we all win. Maryann

At 12:52 AM 12/29/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>To Kayta=
>
>Your mention of a doll club interests me...I just did a major purge of 
>fabric from my disorderly piles and am looking for somewhere/one 
>interested in it.  Is your group in the SF Bay Area perchance?  And, would 
>they like more donations???
>
>Thanks for your time,
>
>Theresa Eacker
>
>Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>  (Pruning)
>
>and now I have 4 more boxes waiting for the thrift store or for
>>the quilters at my doll club.
>>Kayta
>>    //// \\\
>>   ////-@@\\\
>>  ((((   7 )))
>>   (((  <> ))))
>>      )   ((((((
>>/----\   /---\))
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?-- silly
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Heather Rose Jones" at Dec 28, 2002 03:57:07 PM
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 10:04:18 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

mmmm Middle eastern specials at Ti Couz... sounds wonderful!

.heather.

> 
> Crimes?  But a "date crepe" is simply one of the dessert alternatives 
> at that wonderful Breton pancake restaurant in the city ....
> 
> Heather
> -- 
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 29 13:44:56 2002
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 13:12:50 -0500
Status: RO

        Guess I was one of the lucky ones.  My mother cooked (Southern so
mostly fried) and did it well.  I grew up smelling bread rising in the
kitchen and we had home made bread, rolls, biscuits, and such for every
meal.  She taught me to sew when I was too small to reach the treadle on
the sewing machine.  I remember sitting on the front porch with her and
hemming handkerchiefs for my father.  I learned simple embroidery before
I started school.  But mother did not knit or crochet or tat.  I learned
these later in life and love to knit and tat.  Don't really care much for
crochet though for some reason.  Growing up with cooking and sewing made
it so much easier to go on to more complicated stuff as I became
interested.  On the other hand, I hated my HomeEc sewing class and didn't
sew a thing for several years after taking it.  Cooking was ok except
when we had to eat something I didn't like, though the only thing I
learned from the class was how to dip chocolates.  The rest I had learned
at home.  Oh yes, I did get a good recipe for some ice box cookies that
my mother and I both used for years.

        Any school that doesn't offer these classes in an interesting
fashion is depriving the kids of valuable lessons.  In my day girls were
not allowed to take shop and I was lucky there too because my father
didn't feel that way and I learned to use his tools.  I can do more home
repair than a lot of younger men now.  Schools are too oriented towards
to science and grades, grades, grades.  Some kids will not be able to go
to college (at the price of college these days, I don't see how anyone
can) and it is better to give high school students a well rounded
education so that they can at least sew on a button or hammer a nail.

        Sorry, this is one of my favorite soapboxes.  On a costume note,
I remember all my costumes for school plays and Halloween were made of
crepe paper and we just prayed that it wouldn't rain.  Times do change
and not always for the worse.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Dec 29 13:47:01 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chicago
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 10:45:40 -0800
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Ok, Albert, I can't resist commenting!

I went to see Chicago Friday night (limited release, twenty six miles =
from my home, grrr.) and I felt it was amazing.  While I enjoyed the =
experience of Moulin Rouge, I found little to amaze me other than some =
of the costumes, which of course, I never really saw except for flashes =
anyway.  They were fanciful, as was the movie, but back to Chicago...

I just loved it.  I will say I love movie musicals and want them back.  =
I grew up with the era of musicals, I produce musical theater and it's =
something I think we miss in our culture.  That said, I hate the casting =
of "stars" instead of singers to play in the few musicals that get =
produced. =20

I had none of these problems once the film began to roll.  I love the =
twenties (back to obligatory costume content) and the period was =
captured beautifull. I do believe Ms. Zellwegger is wearing antique 20s =
underwear in the scene where she shoots Frankie, her lover.  The dance =
costumes were just well, to die for.  Colleen Atwood (Sleepy Hollow) =
took some really smashing underwear details from the period and used =
them fancifully throughout her dance costuming.  I wasnt' sure if the =
dance costumes were shorter than they would have been (they looked =
almost like skaters costumes but way skimpier) but I didn't care. =20

The acting was outstanding.  Renee Zellwegger was the perfect 20s moll. =
She was alternately ditsy and hard, but at all times very believable and =
I wasn't busy thinking that's Renee Zellwegger, she was Roxie Hart.  In =
fact she looked so 20s sleazy at the opening of the film I wasn't =
positive it was even her.  Catherine Zeta-Jones is also very good, but =
not as believably from the 20s.  There is a modern edge to her =
performance that is there, but not enough to be distracting and they =
both sing and dance amazingly.  This is not a show that calls for great =
voices and the really difficult numbers were cut.  The 70s drek from the =
stage play isn't there, it's fresh and amazing and Cell Block Tango was =
just breathtaking.  The director/choreographer Rob Marshall did some =
outstanding work.  I went with a friend who is an amazing choreographer =
and he was impressed and it takes a lot to impress him with dance =
numbers.

Even Richard Gere was completely believable as Billy Flynn.  The =
courtroom tap dance scene may be my favorite courtroom scene of all =
time.  With it's 20s backdrop, the movie focuses on how fleeting fame =
is, how the Star/Globe/Enquirer style of journalism glorifies some =
pretty nasty deeds and of course, on how the lawyer uses dirty tricks to =
get them off in such a way as to make it very topical for todays world.  =
There are so many parallels to current headlines, it just worked on =
every level.  Most movies disappoint me these days, but this one did =
not.  I'd be interested to know if anyone else enjoyed it as much.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes=20
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"And thus I clothe my naked villany
 With odd old ends stoln' forth of holy writ,
 And seem a saint when most I play the devil"
Richard III, I, iii - W. Shakespeare

=20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 4:41 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] "Russian Ark"


  Is this film playing near anyone? Has anyone seen it. It sounds =
divine!

  And what about the new "Nicholas Nickleby"? I remember the 8 hour =
stage play fondly.

  Then there's also "Chicago".


  I wish some of these films would reach us down here in the boonies =
instead of the stupid "Lord of the Rings" junk on 15 screens! 
------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C2AF27.6E0A0150
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<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>Ok, Albert, I can't resist=20
commenting!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>I went to see Chicago Friday night =
(limited=20
release, twenty six miles from my home, grrr.) and I felt it was =
amazing.&nbsp;=20
While I enjoyed the experience of Moulin Rouge, I found little to amaze =
me other=20
than some of the costumes, which of course, I never really saw except =
for=20
flashes anyway.&nbsp; They were fanciful, as was the movie, but back to=20
Chicago...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>I just loved it.&nbsp; I will say =
I love movie=20
musicals and want them back.&nbsp; I grew up with the era of musicals, I =
produce=20
musical theater and it's something I think we miss in our culture.&nbsp; =
That=20
said, I hate the casting of "stars" instead of singers to play in the =
few=20
musicals that get produced.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>I had none of these problems once =
the film=20
began to roll.&nbsp; I love the twenties (back to obligatory costume =
content)=20
and the period was captured beautifull. I do believe Ms. Zellwegger is =
wearing=20
antique 20s underwear in the scene where she shoots Frankie, her =
lover.&nbsp;=20
The dance costumes were just well, to die for.&nbsp; Colleen Atwood =
(Sleepy=20
Hollow) took some really smashing underwear details from the period and =
used=20
them fancifully throughout her dance costuming.&nbsp; I wasnt' sure if =
the dance=20
costumes were shorter than they would have been (they looked almost like =
skaters=20
costumes but way skimpier) but I didn't care.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>The acting was outstanding.&nbsp; =
Renee=20
Zellwegger was the perfect 20s moll. She was alternately ditsy and hard, =
but at=20
all times very believable and I wasn't busy thinking that's Renee =
Zellwegger,=20
she was Roxie Hart.&nbsp; In fact she looked so 20s sleazy at the =
opening of the=20
film I wasn't positive it was even her.&nbsp; Catherine Zeta-Jones is =
also very=20
good, but not as believably from the 20s.&nbsp; There is a modern edge =
to her=20
performance that is there, but not enough to be distracting and they =
both sing=20
and dance amazingly.&nbsp; This is not a show that calls for great =
voices and=20
the really difficult numbers were cut.&nbsp; The 70s drek from the stage =
play=20
isn't there, it's fresh and amazing and Cell Block Tango was just=20
breathtaking.&nbsp; The director/choreographer Rob Marshall did some =
outstanding=20
work.&nbsp; I went with a friend who is an amazing choreographer and he =
was=20
impressed and it takes a lot to impress him with dance =
numbers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>Even Richard Gere was completely =
believable as=20
Billy Flynn.&nbsp; The courtroom tap dance scene may be my favorite =
courtroom=20
scene of all time.&nbsp; With it's&nbsp;20s backdrop, the movie focuses =
on how=20
fleeting fame is, how the Star/Globe/Enquirer&nbsp;style of journalism =
glorifies=20
some pretty nasty deeds and of course, on how the lawyer uses dirty =
tricks to=20
get them off in such a way as to make it very topical for todays =
world.&nbsp;=20
There are so many parallels to current headlines, it just worked on =
every=20
level.&nbsp; Most movies disappoint me these days, but this one did =
not.&nbsp;=20
I'd be interested to know if anyone else enjoyed it as =
much.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>angela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. =
Lazear<BR>Cabbage Rose=20
Costumes <BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A><BR>Theatrical=20
Costume Design</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>"And thus I clothe my naked=20
villany<BR>&nbsp;With odd old ends stoln' forth of holy =
writ,<BR>&nbsp;And seem=20
a saint when most I play the devil"<BR>Richard III, I, iii - W.=20
Shakespeare</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DAlbertCat@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com">AlbertCat@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, December 28, =
2002 4:41=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] "Russian =
Ark"</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face=3DArial size=3D3 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Is this=20
  film playing near anyone? Has anyone seen it. It sounds =
divine!<BR><BR>And=20
  what about the new "Nicholas Nickleby"? I remember the 8 hour stage =
play=20
  fondly.<BR><BR>Then there's also "Chicago".<BR><BR><BR>I wish some of =
these=20
  films would reach us down here in the boonies instead of the stupid =
"Lord of=20
  the Rings" junk on 15 screens!</FONT> =
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chicago
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Great review. So positive and upbeat without fawning over the thing.

"Chicago" is one of the few musicals I actually like [He likes 
something???!!!] ...though I can't remember anything about the 2nd act [a 
problem I have with a lot of Sonheim]. 

I will look forward to it, since it will probably make it down here, unlike 
"Russian Ark".

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Great review. So positive and upbeat without fawning over the thing.<BR>
<BR>
"Chicago" is one of the few musicals I actually like [He likes something???!!!] ...though I can't remember anything about the 2nd act [a problem I have with a lot of Sonheim]. <BR>
<BR>
I will look forward to it, since it will probably make it down here, unlike "Russian Ark".</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: fabric purge (Was:Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets)
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 13:15:24 -0800
Status: RO

To Kayta-

Thanks so much for your insights - I'd hate just to chuck what is really 
usable fabric, so maybe I'll find a happy home for my bags.

Theresa EAcker

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
>> Your mention of a doll club interests me...I just did a major purge of 
>> fabric from my disorderly piles and am looking for somewhere/one 
>> interested in it.  Is your group in the SF Bay Area perchance?  And, 
>> would they like more donations??
> 
> 
> Two doll clubs, actually.  One is The Flying Phoebes, based in Fremont, 
> and the other one is Gals and Dolls, based in San Jose.  Also, tho I'm 
> no longer a member, the Quilt Museum in downtown San Jose often can use 
> quilt-able fabric, as they sometimes do charity quilts.
> 
> Kayta
> 
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: fabric purge (Was:Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and  fabric diets)
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 13:36:41 -0800
Status: RO

Oh, more great ideas. Thanks for your input.  I like the women's shelter 
ideas, we've got at least two that I know of in my part of San Mateo.

Theresa Eacker

MaryAnn Jones wrote:

> I am in the Sacramento area, and I regularly purge my fabric, patterns, 
> etc.  One of the local sewing machine shops, Meisseners, collects any 
> kind of sewing stuff and distributes it to local groups such as the 
> women's shelter and a boy's prison that makes clothes and quilts for 
> preemies at a hospital.  As I see it, we all win. Maryann
> 
> At 12:52 AM 12/29/2002 -0800, you wrote:
> 
>> To Kayta=
>>
>> Your mention of a doll club interests me...I just did a major purge of 
>> fabric from my disorderly piles and am looking for somewhere/one 
>> interested in it.  Is your group in the SF Bay Area perchance?  And, 
>> would they like more donations???
>>
>> Thanks for your time,
>>
>> Theresa Eacker
>>
>> Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>  (Pruning)
>>
>> and now I have 4 more boxes waiting for the thrift store or for
>>
>>> the quilters at my doll club.
>>> Kayta
>>>    //// \\\
>>>   ////-@@\\\
>>>  ((((   7 )))
>>>   (((  <> ))))
>>>      )   ((((((
>>> /----\   /---\))
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas presents and fabric diets
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 16:44:46 -0500
Status: RO

LOL!!!  Your right Linda... we went to a lady's who might as well owned a
fabric shop!  See I didn't tell you there were two real fabric shops right
down the road from the ladies house!!!!  I wised up.

I am a sucker for book stores too.  The owner was really nice to let us look
at the books so long.

I am glad you found your dining room.  Robin gave good advice.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 16:59:10 -0500
Status: RO

> Now, of course, that I'm on the *other* side of the Evil Divide,

ROTFLMBO~~~~~~~~  I love this... the Evil Divide!!

I call when my kids go through puberty, "They go to the Dark Side of the
Force!"  Now that Katie is in puberty and has PMS... she has shown me how
BAD the Dark Side of the Force is!! Save me Yoda!!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Source for large quantities of soutache braid
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 15:03:46 -0700
Status: RO

Wasn't someone, a long time ago (like, maybe, last summer?) looking for
a source for large quantities of soutache braid? Katya maybe?
Well, this afternoon, while my dishes were soaking and I was going
through old emails, I checked out one that someone'd posted about
Greenberg and Hammer's website finally being up (Wa-hoo!).
One of the things they sell is 144-yd. spools of soutache.
http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=287
They don't have all of their stuff available, but it's definitely been
worth the wait!
--sue
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date crepe introduced?
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 22:06:33 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 12/28/2002 5:51:13 PM Eastern
Standard Time, 
> marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net writes:
> 
> 
> > Sarsanet 
> 
> I believe "sarsanet" is shot silk--that is, one color threads in the warp and
> 
> another in the weft.

In 17th c. terms it is the cheapest silk available.

...unless my brain is still addled from the sea-sickness while crossing the
rough English channel. Pooey.

Nicole 

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 15:10:03 -0700
Status: RO

Ooops.  Sorry.  I think I misspelled Kayta's name.  *sigh*
--sue, going away now.....

Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> Wasn't someone, a long time ago (like, maybe, last summer?) looking for
> a source for large quantities of soutache braid? Katya maybe?
> Well, this afternoon, while my dishes were soaking and I was going
> through old emails, I checked out one that someone'd posted about
> Greenberg and Hammer's website finally being up (Wa-hoo!).
> One of the things they sell is 144-yd. spools of soutache.
> http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=287
> They don't have all of their stuff available, but it's definitely been
> worth the wait!
> --sue
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 15:09:25 -0700
Status: RO

My mom used to threaten to chain me in the basement till *that* was all
over with for the month.
Your mother would probably just call it "payback." Mine would have, if
I'd ever had kids.
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> > Now, of course, that I'm on the *other* side of the Evil Divide,
> 
> ROTFLMBO~~~~~~~~  I love this... the Evil Divide!!
> 
> I call when my kids go through puberty, "They go to the Dark Side of the
> Force!"  Now that Katie is in puberty and has PMS... she has shown me how
> BAD the Dark Side of the Force is!! Save me Yoda!!!!
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 15:14:54 -0700
Status: RO

Welcome home, Nicole...hope you had a lovely holiday with your family!
Ferry, huh? How long does it take to get across the Channel?
I was completely thrilled, when crossing the Irish Sea this fall that
a) it was completely smooth, and
b) only took 2 hours.
--sue, so instantly motion-sick she can't even ride the carousel

N Kipar wrote:
> 

> In 17th c. terms it is the cheapest silk available.
> 
> ...unless my brain is still addled from the sea-sickness while crossing the
> rough English channel. Pooey.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for large quantities of soutache braid
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 22:15:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

That might have been me Sue, back in 2000, for my 1660s shoes (though it might
have been someone else after that). Found some since then in Germany.

Cheers :-)

Nicole
 
--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Wasn't someone, a long time ago
(like, maybe, last summer?) looking for
> a source for large quantities of soutache braid? Katya maybe?
> Well, this afternoon, while my dishes were soaking and I was going
> through old emails, I checked out one that someone'd posted about
> Greenberg and Hammer's website finally being up (Wa-hoo!).
> One of the things they sell is 144-yd. spools of soutache.
> http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=287
> They don't have all of their stuff available, but it's definitely been
> worth the wait!
> --sue
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 16:02:05 -0800
Status: RO


>Wasn't someone, a long time ago (like, maybe, last summer?) looking for
>a source for large quantities of soutache braid? Katya maybe?

Me, yes.  Thanx for the info.

>Well, this afternoon, while my dishes were soaking and I was going
>through old emails, I checked out one that someone'd posted about
>Greenberg and Hammer's website finally being up (Wa-hoo!).
>One of the things they sell is 144-yd. spools of soutache.
>http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=287
>They don't have all of their stuff available, but it's definitely been
>worth the wait!


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ur=FBk=2Dhai?= costume LOTR
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 20:48:42 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Deredere, there are some miniature figures of Uruk-Hai from the LotR movies
available in the US that are rather detailed, and have the ability of being viewed 360
degrees. Perhaps they are available to you over there in toy stores or shops catering to Role
Playing/Gaming/Comic Books. I just saw the movie yesterday, and was so impressed by it. I saw
John Howe's vision in many of the looks, especially the armor of the Rohan and the soldiers
of Gondor. Good Luck, Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 21:04:39 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Penny, that's great. He is on his way to what I hope will be a great career. Please
tell him to look into motion picture work when and if he has the time. Right now, that is not
my bread and butter, as the hours are long and it takes me away from my family, but it could
put him into six figures if he choses to push himself as he has already done. There are folks
on this list (Albert, are you out there?) that can attest to the good wages in our business
that can be made. Your son can still be a member of a union and work as a private contractor.
It depends on the state laws as to whether it is better financially. I do both, and find that
I work harder as a private contractor, and make the same money, here in the Northeast. I'm
sure that he is the envy of all of his peers that have to trudge to work at the local
hamburger emporium. Good Luck to him and to you, and Thank You for helping him to find his
path, I hope he is happy. Mike T.



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Lalah T Tillinghast <catpurson@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 23:09:21 -0500
Status: RO

On Sunday 29 December 2002 01:12 pm, Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:
[text cut here]
>
>         Any school that doesn't offer these classes in an interesting
> fashion is depriving the kids of valuable lessons.  In my day girls were
> not allowed to take shop and I was lucky there too because my father
> didn't feel that way and I learned to use his tools. 

Good for your father.  I wish mine had been more broadminded in that respect.

That *is* one useful function classes like Shop and Home Ec can (and maybe 
should) still serve--exposing boys and girls to skills that may still, in 
their home environments, be associated only with the opposite sex.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 23:11:30 -0500
Status: RO

On Sunday 29 December 2002 11:13 am, Stevie Gamble wrote:
> Linda wrote
>
> > Oh.
>
> Yep. That is the usual response to fabric stash broodings; they bear
> no resemblance to rational thought processes. Theoretically one should
> proceed as Bjarne does; decide upon a project and buy the fabric
> needed for that project. In practise I see good fabric at a good price
> and I buy it, and wonder what on earth I'm going to do with it at a
> later date.

I generally don't buy fabric without a project in mind.  I almost always buy 
it with a particular project in mind--though sometimes it takes me years to 
get to doing the project....

Trim, on the other hand, I *will* buy just to have it, if it's neat enough....

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If you can't convince them, confuse them."  Harry S. Truman

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 30 00:07:06 2002
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 00:05:56 -0500
Status: RO

Hello, all.

Does anyone know what happened to Saeed Ahmed, the silk velvet seller on ebay?
He was in Pakistan, and had velvet in colors to die for.

I haven't bought from him in a year or so, and he seems to have dropped off 
the radar.  Poot.  I wanted some of the rosy brown and the moss green!

Thanks,
Michelle
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 01:04:24 -0500
Status: RO

Penny Ladnier wrote:

>You will gather the books over time.  Watch eBay... especially auctions that
>end late at night or on weekends and you can pick up some good deals.  B&N
>stores is also a place to watch the clearance racks.  I hate paying full
>price for any book.

Also look for any discount and/or used-book stores that you can get to in 
person, libraries selling off old/used/ratty books, etc. Many of my art 
books I got at the local discount bookstore ( Strand Books, 
http://www.strandbooks.com ), on my lunch hour:  the Fulton Street Annex 
appears to be where most of their art collection is housed. I find all 
sorts of buys on the dollar rack, the used-book racks, the paper racks...

Depending on the period you're doing, you may also want to look for old 
auction catalogs. Strand sells lots of these, but most of the items for 
auction are much later than the period I'm dealing with (16th Century, 
mostly England and the current British Isles) -- not to mention that 
there's a lot of antique furniture to wade through!


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Home Ec and the Education Curriculum
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 01:04:33 -0500
Status: RO

Penny Ladnier wrote:

>Strange that your state is trying to push out tech/life skills.  My state is
>trying to push them.

New York, as I recall from my years in school (June will be 25 years since 
I graduated a Long Island high school, EEK!!!), tends to think of these as 
the usual "business" curriculum and the pre-college curriculum: things like 
typing, steno (if that is still taught!), marketing, etc.

It's pretty much expected, especially around the major cities and more 
affluent suburbs, that all students will attend *at minimum* a two-year 
community college.

>Most of the school systems in our metro have a
>technical school so kids attend and learn a trade.  It has come to the
>realization that not all kids go to college and someday we will need to
>replace the baby boomers in the work force.

On Long Island, this used to be covered by BOCES (Board of Cooperative 
Educational Services), which had a day program for students who would never 
be able to make it into the most easy admission community college. They 
also had Adult Education at night...

>As for the Home Ec.  I think it is really important that kids learn these
>life skills.  Not only the sewing but how to cook, etiquette, etc.  Most
>kids are not learning it at home.

Well, etiquette was never part of Home Ec, as far as I know. What little I 
remember (I skipped out of the Home Ec curriculum as quickly as I could, 
since I was by that age already advanced beyond what the curriculum 
covered, and when I had the choice  between Home Ec, Music, and Fine Art, 
Music was definitely the preferred course) was that Home Ec covered cooking 
from mixes and simple recipes, and sewing from a pattern. Etiquette was 
something you learned at home, or in a highly-structured nursery school 
(for which I will forever thank my mother's parents, may they rest in 
peace!), or in charm school... or, for the more esoteric stuff, in a 
cosmopolitan college, a finishing school, or by reading (I had never even 
heard of fish knives and forks before they were mentioned in a 
home-entertaining column of the Boston Globe!)...

>When my kid's friends come over, they want to stay for dinner because so few
>of them sit down with a family for dinner.

I think that is in part a function of single-parent families and 
two-working-parent families, and long-or-weird-working-hours schedules. 
Nobody seems to have the time to cook in any more, much less to spend time 
together before having to rush off to the next appointment in his or her 
overly structured life... (I am told that today, that starts almost from 
birth: swimming lessons, doctor's appointments, patternings, music 
appreciation lessons... structured play dates... Gymboree... get the picture?)

>These kids will volunteer to help cook and wash dishes.  People would be
>shocked to see how many of these kids have never done a chore at home.

Sometimes parents are so afraid a child will get something wrong or break 
something that they're afraid to trust them to cook or wash... or they have 
a dishwasher, or always use disposable plates, or they have a servant, or 
they eat take-out (or go out to McDonald's) all the time...

>I have been teaching these teenagers how to cook and wash dishes.  My
>children laugh at the teenagers for volunteering.  My kids have done chores
>all their life.

And you are doing a valuable service teaching these kids how to be 
self-sufficient when they go out on their own.

>Before my kids go to prom, I have an etiquette talk with my sons' dates.
>Most kids do not know how to tip a waiter, manners when formal dining

Kids? How about adults?! My other half and I are involved in computer user 
group officers' groups, and every time we are at one of the user group 
officers' conferences, one of the software manufacturers will sponsor what, 
for lack of more specific terminology, I'll call a three-fork repast. Even 
when I'm not the only female at the table, I'll often find everyone will 
look to me to see which flatware to use, since using more than one fork and 
one knife at the table (the usual flatware provided at diners and 
inexpensive "family-style" restaurants) is completely beyond their 
experience/ken. Mind you, most of the men and women at these tables are ten 
to twenty years older than I am -- of a generation whose parents, in my 
experience, always set the dinner table with two forks (salad and main 
course), and a soup and/or dessert spoon...

>How to walk and act in a formal dress.  I teach them how to walk up and down
>stairs in a formal.

This is something I've never learned formally. Best I can do is let the 
garment tell me how to move... regardless of the garment and its level of 
formality. OTOH, I'm not going to let the best photograph of the evening 
escape me by being above plopping down on the floor in my fancy attire to 
shoot from the cute dancing kid's eye level!

>I have found that kids get scared when they don't know what is expected of 
>them.
>Someone has to teach them...

Yes, yes, YES!

Mom and Dad always tried to keep my sister and me away from wakes, 
funerals, and memorial services (although we did go along on condolence 
calls). My first experience with this sort of thing was when one of the 
(Jewish) grads from our college fencing team died suddenly the next year, 
and his family sponsored a memorial service in the campus chapel. While I 
normally would have chafed at the (non-Jewish) fencing coach trying to tell 
us how to behave at a Jewish ceremony, his was the only example my 
teammates and I had to follow, as our parents had completely insulated us 
from death ceremonies and left us unprepared to handle them (even 
inappropriately or tactlessly!)...

>My oldest son is a manager of a Starbucks and hires a lot of young adults.
>He said they are so lacking in life skills.

<political soapbox>
The emphasis is on getting high marks on standardized tests. We're raising 
a society of trained monkeys, not people. AND we're complaining when they 
can't handle responsibility, with the result that our government -- with 
the willing compliance of these people -- is methodically taking away our 
rights and responsibilities. Life skills and knowing how to take 
responsibility makes it harder for the government to take away people's 
rights, so they don't want you to learn how to be responsible.
</political soapbox>


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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I believe he is now selling under this ID at Ebay.  I was told he had some 
problems with his previous ID

www_classicfabric_com

Hope this helps

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I believe he is now selling under this ID at Ebay.&nbsp; I was told he had some problems with his previous ID<BR>
<BR>
www_classicfabric_com<BR>
<BR>
Hope this helps</FONT></HTML>

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Albert,


Thanks for the feedback. I can't wait to see if it was just a good night =
or if the film was as good as I thought.  I usually spend the whole =
movie seeing flaws, and this was much fun. I did notice that the prison =
"Mama"'s earrings and necklace didn't match at all in her big number and =
I simply can't fathom why they didn't bother, because they don't even go =
together well, but small detail.


  You meant to say "Kander & Ebb"? Or comparing it to Sondheim? =20

  "Chicago" is one of the few musicals I actually like [He likes =
something???!!!] ...though I can't remember anything about the 2nd act =
[a problem I have with a lot of Sonheim].=20

  Russian Ark is the one shot in a day at the Hermitage, yes?
  angela
  +++++
  Angela F. Lazear
  Cabbage Rose Costumes=20
  http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
  Theatrical Costume Design

  "I have no other but a woman's reason:=20
  I think him so, because I think him so."
  Two Gentlemen of Verona, Act I, Sc. I - W. Shakespeare






------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C2AF91.053F7A00
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1126" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>Albert,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>Thanks for the feedback. I can't =
wait to see=20
if it was just a good night or if the film was as good as I =
thought.&nbsp; I=20
usually spend the whole movie seeing flaws, and this was much fun. I did =
notice=20
that the prison "Mama"'s earrings and necklace didn't match at all in =
her big=20
number and I simply can't fathom why they didn't bother, because they =
don't even=20
go together well, but small detail.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"=20
  face=3DArial size=3D3 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV><FONT=20
  face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: =
#ffffff" face=3DArial=20
  size=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><FONT=20
  face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: =
#ffffff" face=3DArial=20
  size=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">You meant to say "Kander &amp; Ebb"? Or =
comparing it=20
  to Sondheim?&nbsp;=20
  <DIV><BR>"Chicago" is one of the few musicals I actually like [He =
likes=20
  something???!!!] ...though I can't remember anything about the 2nd act =
[a=20
  problem I have with a lot of Sonheim]. </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde size=3D2>Russian Ark is the one shot in a =
day at the=20
  Hermitage, yes?</FONT></DIV><FONT face=3DAvantGarde=20
size=3D2></FONT></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"=20
  face=3DArial size=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3DAvantGarde=20
  size=3D2>angela</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"=20
  face=3DArial size=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3DAvantGarde=20
  size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. Lazear<BR>Cabbage Rose Costumes <BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A><BR>Theatrical=20
  Costume Design</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"=20
  face=3DArial size=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3DAvantGarde =
size=3D2>"I have no=20
  other but a woman's reason: <BR>I think him so, because I think him=20
  so."<BR>Two Gentlemen of Verona, Act I, Sc. I - W.=20
  Shakespeare</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"=20
  face=3DArial size=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3DAvantGarde=20
  size=3D2></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"=20
  face=3DArial size=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3DAvantGarde=20
  size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Home Ec and the Education Curriculum
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 03:06:06 -0500
Status: RO

I replied to Brenda off-list.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 03:58:14 -0500
Status: RO


.  In my day girls were
> > not allowed to take shop and I was lucky there too because my father
> > didn't feel that way and I learned to use his tools.
>
> Good for your father.  I wish mine had been more broadminded in that
respect.
>
> That *is* one useful function classes like Shop and Home Ec can (and maybe
> should) still serve--exposing boys and girls to skills that may still, in
> their home environments, be associated only with the opposite sex.

My dad didn't teach me to use tools, but he used to let me watch him down in
his workshop, and I loved it. The only thing he built that I really remember
was a doolhouse for. It was nothing fancy, but I loved it!

When my DH told HIS dad that he had bought me a jig saw for Christmas, my
FIL laughed. My dad said "So, what are you going to make first?"

Dianne

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 04:44:54 -0500
Status: RO

I thought this might be helpful to those who own webpages:
http://www.useit.com/alertbox/20021223.html

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT;Working with glasses/bifocals - Penny
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 23:18:08 -0800
Status: RO

At 5:20 PM -0500 12/28/02, Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:
>         I had the progressive lens several years ago and hated them.  I
>was always trying to find the right place to look through.  There was no
>side to side sight with mine.  If they have improved so I don't have to
>turn my head from side to side to see anything that isn't right in front
>of me, I might be interested in trying them again.

I imagine this sort of thing is highly individual, depending on one's 
specific vision problems and how they are corrected.  When I got 
progressive lens glasses, everyone told me that the adjustment period 
would be awful (but worth it) and that I'd spend a couple weeks 
tripping over things and whatnot.  Instead, I put the new glasses on 
and suddenly everything simply looked "right" again.  So there may be 
no way to tell if they've fixed your problem without actually trying 
a new set.

Before I got the progressives, I'd gotten to the point where I had to 
take my glasses off for just about any kind of sewing (or other 
close-up work).  Now I'm back to being able to do most stuff with 
glasses on, although if I'm doing fine work like embroidery or 
beading I still tend to do it w/o glasses, simply so I can use the 
whole field of vision.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 05:24:37 -0800
Status: RO




>It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
>related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

I haven't ordered it yet, but I'm getting the color fashion plates "Godey's" 
book from Amazon.com.  It will be the only directly costume related gift 
this year but I did get what I really wished for...

I now have a bath mat that makes my hot soak a bubbling, relaxing, nigh on 
decadent experience after a long day cutting and sewing.  ;)

It has been so fun reading about the wonderful gifts you've all recieved and 
given this year.  It is a pleasure to be part of such an amazing group of 
people.

Thank You,

Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!






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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 30 08:59:11 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for ebay dealer
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 08:56:57 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Oh, WOW... gorgeous stuff!  Maybe when I have some money again...   Can I
have 10 yards in every color? ;)

Seriously, is this guy a reputable dealer?  I'd love to make, oh, several
jackets, pillows, bedcovers, whatever in this stuff, it looks so
luxurious!

-- Mara


On Mon, 30 Dec 2002 Osmondia@aol.com wrote:

> I believe he is now selling under this ID at Ebay.  I was told he had some
> problems with his previous ID
>
> www_classicfabric_com
>
> Hope this helps
>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 08:50:07 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Sun, 29 Dec 2002, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> Good for your father.  I wish mine had been more broadminded in that respect.
>
> That *is* one useful function classes like Shop and Home Ec can (and maybe
> should) still serve--exposing boys and girls to skills that may still, in
> their home environments, be associated only with the opposite sex.

At my youngest sister's office, everyone got Home Depot gift certificates
for Christmas from the boss.  He was apologizing to the women, and then
said, brightly, 'But they now sell lots of home furnishing stuff there,
too'. Sarah thought this was hilariously funny, as between herself and her
boyfriend, _she_ is the one most comfortable with power tools, stereo
equipment, etc.  As sis says, 'Power tools are a girl's best friend.'
They certainly go a long way toward making up for a lack of upper-body
strength, anyway!

-- Mara

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In a message dated 12/30/2002 2:23:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net writes:


> You meant to say "Kander & Ebb"? Or comparing it to Sondheim?  

Yes. Just a comparison. Most of the other musicals I like are Sondheim....or 
Weil. 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 12/30/2002 2:23:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">You meant to say "Kander &amp; Ebb"? Or comparing it to Sondheim?&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Yes. Just a comparison. Most of the other musicals I like are Sondheim....or Weil. </FONT></HTML>

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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:21:23 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Thank you all for your responses on Valmont.  I do own
Dangerous Liasons as well, I have both in DVD and VHS
format now.  I would have responded sooner, but I
spent most of the last week sewing!

I know *very* little about the time period for these
two films, and that little because of the one costume
book in my library which has a chapter on it.  I know
quite well that _The Mode in Costume_ is not a really
good source, which is why I started talking about it
on the list.  I'm going to need help figuring out
either how to draft patterns for the two of us, or a
reputable pattern maker from whom I may purchase a
set; and what fabrics/colour combinations would be
appropriate.

I like both films, but for different reasons.  In
Dangerous Liasons, yes there are a lot more of the
"bigger names" in it, but some of the ages seem so
disproportionate.  After all, Dulsaney and the convent
girl  (Claire?) are 17 and 15...and neither look it in
DL--much as I adore Keanu Reeves. (grin) However, Meg
Tilly's looks in Valmont always strike me as odd...too
exotic seeming next to everyone else.

As for Amadeus, I always fall alseep watching it.  I
may like his music, but the film just drags on and on.

Angharat



=====


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From: "Five Rivers" <info@5rivers.org>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Pattern Releases
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 13:48:18 -0500
Status: RO

Finally the military coatee patterns we've been waiting for from Past
Patterns are released. Five Rivers is carrying them; however, due to our
website changing over as of January 1 to a more efficient and user-friendly
system (featuring multi-currency display options), they are unavailable for
display at the moment. Any queries that arise because of this post should be
directed to info@5rivers.org.

This shell pattern may be used for military patterns circa 1796-1809. This
includes patterns for the Lewis and Clark bicentennial celebrations. The
pattern is based on U.S. Army correspondence between 1803-1805 from the
National Archives as well as garments and drafting systems.

The pattern contains historical notes by Robert G. Stone describing the 1804
artillery coat as well as how to adapt the pattern for use in making a Lewis
and Clark private's coat.

The pattern also contains illustrated instructions for hand stitches that
are typical of early 19th century tailoring. Saundra Ros Altman has written
and illustrated the sewing and fitting instructions.

This pattern is available in army issue sizes 1 [35], 2 [37] and 3 [39] and
modern sizes 4 [41], 5 [43], 6 [45], 7 [47], 8 [49], 9 [51], 10 [53], 11
[55], 12 [57]. Sizes 1 through 3 require 2 Yds.; sizes 4 through 6 require
2-1/4 Yds. of 54 inch wide fabric. $33.00CDN.

Also from Past Patterns is the Lewis and Clark Era Front Closing Gown,
$41.25CDN.

This pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the
Wayne County Historical Museum in Richmond, Indiana. The gown has no
history. It is a house dress. The threads are hand spun and the fabric is
hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft. The background is white,
interrupted every 7/8 inch by alternate threads of madder red and indigo
blue. Unlike today's fabric, the stripes are at a right angle to the
salvage. The two lining fabrics were probably cut from scraps. The thread
count is approximately 50 warp and 44 weft.

Illustrated instructions for sewing the garment by hand are included,
however, this is an easy garment to sew by machine.

The empire style bodice is cut conservative yet it has the fashionable small
back of the period. As a result of the small back the sleeves form the
shoulders, creating a very comfortable fit. A casing with drawstrings ties
to fit at center front. The bodice is lined. The front lining is loose from
the armholes to center front. It crosses over and fastens at center front
with straight pins. This front lining does not support the bust. It is to
help hold the front closed. A corset is worn with this garment.

The pleated skirt is fullest in the back and flat in the front. A 1-1/2 inch
tuck at center front raises the skirt over the toes.

This pattern is sized 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups. Sizes 8 through
14 require 4-1/2 Yds.; sizes 16 through 20 require 5 Yds. and sizes 22
through 26 require 5-1/2 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

This pattern is copyrighted and is for personal non-commercial use only.
Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.

Another great new pattern release is from Country Wives, $15.00CDN!

Caps for the Upper Crust features a series of four historically accurate,
well-engineered delightful caps, suitable for middle to upper class
interpretations from 1790 to 1820.

Any queries, direct them to me.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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Subject: [h-cost] [h-cost]kyoto book info request
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 11:16:30 -0800
Status: RO

While I didn't get the new kyoto book for christmas, I did get a gift card
to a bookstore so I am going to go order it.  Could someone who has it send
me the isbn number?  It would make it so much easier to order.

tia

Susan

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 15:57:46 -0500
Status: RO

Ooh, thank you!  It's good to find him again.
Michelle
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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 16:00:32 -0500
Status: RO

Oh yes, Mara, very reputable!
I've dealt with him twice, and he couldn't have been nicer, or provided 
better service!

You should feel this velvet.  Mmmmmmm..
Michelle
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 15:14:18 -0800
Status: RO

I am from that time when only girls took Home Ec. and only boys took 
shop. We took this for three years in Junior High (1960 to 1963). I 
envied the boys their opportunity to use a lathe. We also, boys and 
girls, took three years of typing. This was, i believe, to prepare us 
for high school and college, when we'd have to type papers.

By the time my brother got to junior high (he's three years younger 
than i am), boys took Home Ec. while the girls took shop, and girls 
took Home Ec. while the boys took shop each year. I don't know if 
they had three years of it. I do remember my brother making brownies 
in his Home Ec. class, something we never did when i took it.

My father never taught me to use tools, but then, he didn't known how 
to use them himself. And my mother didn't teach me to sew because 
anything that needed sewing she took to a seamstress; all my mom 
could do was turn a hem, and not that neatly.

I certainly didn't learn to cook or sew in Home Ec. I taught myself 
when i was 18 and living on my own.

I think such classes *could* be valuable, but the way i was taught, 
they certainly weren't.

I'm certainly not opposed to them - i think everyone benefits by 
knowing how to use an actual stove, rather than just a microwave oven 
(something i don't own), for example. And, i hope, how to buy actual 
meats, fruits, and vegetables, rather than pre-prepared food that 
just goes in the microwave.

But, then, maybe i'm just old fashioned :-)

We also had Drivers Ed. in high school, which, from what i can tell, 
has been discontinued from many high schools. This discontinuation 
may be why there are so many awful drivers on the road these days. 
People often won't even pull over for an emergency vehicle around 
here.

Anahita
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 30 18:30:37 2002
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 18:31:03 -0500
Status: RO

I was also in Jr. high during the era when boys took shop and girls took
home ec and never the twain shall meet.

But I learned to use tools at home and while I was a student at Pitt I
was a theater major (tech) and sometimes was shop fore. It was always
annoying/amusing to have the frosh guys come in and assume that since I
was a girl I couldn't know what I was doing. They would be quite annoyed
by the time I had them rip the flat they were building a part for the
3rd time because they couldn't get the corners square, while assuring me
they absolutely knew what they were doing.

At my son's middle school here in Georgia he took home ec for 6 weeks
last year in 7th grade. He got cooking, nutrition and a segment on
baby-sitting.  It was part of the exploratories. He also to took 6 week
segments on French, Spanish, technology, keyboarding and something else
that is eluding me.  
This year he could have again taken 6 weeks of all these different
things again or all year chorus, band or art. So he is taking art. 8th
grade home ec is sewing. As far as I can tell they don't offer shop.

My daughter goes to high school in Illinois, Driver's Ed is a graduation
requirement at her high school. It is a public high school.
As far as I know it isn't offered at the high school here in Georgia.

I have taught both my kids how to sew as and when it interested them.
This year my daughter wants to work with my during spring break to make
up the dress she has designed for her Senior Prom.

Wendy
lilinah@earthlink.net wrote:
> 
> I am from that time when only girls took Home Ec. and only boys took
> shop. We took this for three years in Junior High (1960 to 1963). I
> envied the boys their opportunity to use a lathe. We also, boys and
> girls, took three years of typing. This was, i believe, to prepare us
> for high school and college, when we'd have to type papers.
> 
> By the time my brother got to junior high (he's three years younger
> than i am), boys took Home Ec. while the girls took shop, and girls
> took Home Ec. while the boys took shop each year. I don't know if
> they had three years of it. I do remember my brother making brownies
> in his Home Ec. class, something we never did when i took it.
> 
> My father never taught me to use tools, but then, he didn't known how
> to use them himself. And my mother didn't teach me to sew because
> anything that needed sewing she took to a seamstress; all my mom
> could do was turn a hem, and not that neatly.
> 
> I certainly didn't learn to cook or sew in Home Ec. I taught myself
> when i was 18 and living on my own.
> 
> I think such classes *could* be valuable, but the way i was taught,
> they certainly weren't.
> 
> I'm certainly not opposed to them - i think everyone benefits by
> knowing how to use an actual stove, rather than just a microwave oven
> (something i don't own), for example. And, i hope, how to buy actual
> meats, fruits, and vegetables, rather than pre-prepared food that
> just goes in the microwave.
> 
> But, then, maybe i'm just old fashioned :-)
> 
> We also had Drivers Ed. in high school, which, from what i can tell,
> has been discontinued from many high schools. This discontinuation
> may be why there are so many awful drivers on the road these days.
> People often won't even pull over for an emergency vehicle around
> here.
> 
> Anahita
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 30 19:08:17 2002
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:09:02 -0500
Status: RO

Anahita,

Driver's Ed is a required course in our high schools.  It is taught instead
of one semester of PE.  Everyone has to take it.  If you do not pass, you
have to go to a private company and pass the class.  Until the age of 18 yo,
you have to go to court to receive your license.  Even after passing the
semester class, the kids have to pay either $100 to the school to take
behind the wheel training OR pay $200+ to a private business to take behind
the wheel.  You can't get your license until the student passes both
classes.

Virginia has really cracked down on teens driving.  And for a good reason...
a lot of deaths from car accidents.  Six kids from my sons school were
killed in one car accident.  There were three fatal accidents that month
involving teens.  Then the state took a hard look at how many kids can be in
a car at one time.  Then the laws were passed.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Dec 30 19:28:40 2002
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From: "Janet Davis" <castle@erie.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:29:30 -0500
Status: RO

Kids should be taught cooking anyway as a matter of safety - even those who
don't know how will do it when they are hungry.  I live in a neighborhood
with a number of apartments that are rented to collage students.  At least
once a year, someone starts a fairly major fire in the process of trying to
cook something.

When I was young, I got an insurance discount for having taken driver's ed
and now I get a discount for number of years without an accident or traffic
ticket.  I think I should get a house insurance discount for having taken
home ec (many years ago) and living many years without starting a grease
fire,etc.

Janet
Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http://www.medievalbookstore.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] [h-cost]kyoto book info request
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 17:25:42 -0800
Status: RO

3-8228-1206-4

Theresa Eacker

Susan wrote:

> While I didn't get the new kyoto book for christmas, I did get a gift card
> to a bookstore so I am going to go order it.  Could someone who has it send
> me the isbn number?  It would make it so much easier to order.
> 
> tia
> 
> Susan
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] 1894 Dictionary of Textiles History Fabric
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 21:38:14 -0800
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oooooooooohhh....... have a look at =
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3D20117&item=3D932=
583386

here is a gem of a book on ebay described as:
A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods=20

and a History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and other Fibrous Substances =


Including a full explanation of the modern processes of=20

Spinning, Dyeing and Weaving,=20

with an appendix containing a treatise on Window Trimming,=20

German words and phrases, with their English pronunciation and=20

signification together with various useful tables.=20

by George S. Cole=20

Chicago: J. B. Herring Pub. Co., 1894, revised edition (1892).=20

584 pages, illustrated with woodcuts and half tones from photographs.=20

6.5" x 9.25", original brown cloth.=20

This is a scarce book, useful to anyone interested in the history of =
textiles, as presented and applied during the late Victorian Era. =
References include worldwide orientation to materials, cultivation, =
harvest, design, manufacturing, inventory, relevant tables and charts, =
statistics of consumption, manufacturers by name (Fruit of the Loom!), =
to marketing across the counter, including point of sale floor and =
window displaying.=20

Condition: binding shows the result of much use, with wear to all =
aspects. There has been effective, if not cosmetic, repair in the past =
and the binding remains firmly intact. Pages show age toning, but no =
damage. No stains, no tears. The book is complete. Much used and much =
cared for book. In nearly 20 years of bookselling, this is the 2nd copy =
of this title I've seen, both heavily worn.

Trying hard to stick to 16th century, but it is enticing.


Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>oooooooooohhh....... have a look at <A=20
href=3D"http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=3D2011=
7&amp;item=3D932583386">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp=
;category=3D20117&amp;item=3D932583386</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>here is a gem of a book on ebay =
described as:
<P>A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods=20
<P>and a History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and other Fibrous =
Substances=20
<P>Including a full explanation of the modern processes of=20
<P>Spinning, Dyeing and Weaving,=20
<P>with an appendix containing a treatise on Window Trimming,=20
<P>German words and phrases, with their English pronunciation and=20
<P>signification together with various useful tables.=20
<P>by George S. Cole=20
<P>Chicago: J. B. Herring Pub. Co., 1894, revised edition (1892).=20
<P>584 pages, illustrated with woodcuts and half tones from photographs. =

<P>6.5" x 9.25", original brown cloth.=20
<P>This is a scarce book, useful to anyone interested in the history of=20
textiles, as presented and applied during the late Victorian Era. =
References=20
include worldwide orientation to materials, cultivation, harvest, =
design,=20
manufacturing, inventory, relevant tables and charts, statistics of =
consumption,=20
manufacturers by name (Fruit of the Loom!), to marketing across the =
counter,=20
including point of sale floor and window displaying. </P>
<P>Condition: binding shows the result of much use, with wear to all =
aspects.=20
There has been effective, if not cosmetic, repair in the past and the =
binding=20
remains firmly intact. Pages show age toning, but no damage. No stains, =
no=20
tears. The book is complete. Much used and much cared for book. In =
nearly 20=20
years of bookselling, this is the 2nd copy of this title I've seen, both =
heavily=20
worn.</P></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Trying hard to stick to 16th century, =
but it is=20
enticing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lisa Sinervo<BR>Threadneedle St. =
Clothiers<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.ThreadneedleSt.com">www.ThreadneedleSt.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 00:43:39 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Dress Making (Article)-1885
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 21:50:56 -0800
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Also interesting =
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3D29216&item=3D290=
1955685

"This is an article from 1885.=20
There are twenty-two pages with twelve illustrations about turning silk. =


This is an old article,and not a copy.=20




See the "me" page for more information.=20

Packaging,and shipping to all international,or world countries:5.88 =
air.Mainland USA :4.18 "

Lisa Sinervo
Threadneedle St. Clothiers
www.ThreadneedleSt.com

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D3>Also=20
interesting</FONT></FONT> <A=20
href=3D"http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=3D2921=
6&amp;item=3D2901955685">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am=
p;category=3D29216&amp;item=3D2901955685</A></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D3></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D3>"This is an=20
article from 1885. </FONT></DIV>
<P>There are twenty-two pages with twelve illustrations about turning =
silk.=20
<P>This is an old article,and not a copy. <BR>
<P>
<P>
<P>See the "me" page for more information.=20
<P>Packaging,and shipping to all international,or world countries:5.88=20
air.Mainland USA :4.18 "</P></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lisa Sinervo<BR>Threadneedle St. =
Clothiers<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.ThreadneedleSt.com">www.ThreadneedleSt.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 01:12:27 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Ageless Patterns
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 01:12:34 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings All!

I am sorry if this has gone through twice, but there seems to have been a glich in the system...  So, can anyone tell me anything about Ageless Patterns?  Has anyone out there actually used them?  I am a little leary of them since they label themselves as "Historic Costumes for Theatrical Costumers".

Thanks,
Kit 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 02:01:29 2002
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 23:04:37 -0800
Status: RO

Most of the Ageless Patterns are tracings from the pattern sheets in _Harper's Bazar_.  I have most of them in the original _Harper's Bazar_ magazines in my collection.  I published selections from 1867 and 1868 in my book _Reconstruction Era Fashions_.

The  _Harper's Bazar_ patterns are given in one size (if you are not that size, you need to alter them).  The Ageless Patterns seller has added seam and grain lines.  _Harper's Bazar_ gives assembly instructions, and I assume Ageless Patterns reprinted these also.

Hope this  helps,

Fran

Kitsune242@aol.com wrote:

> Greetings All!
>
> I am sorry if this has gone through twice, but there seems to have been a glich in the system...  So, can anyone tell me anything about Ageless Patterns?  Has anyone out there actually used them?  I am a little leary of them since they label themselves as "Historic Costumes for Theatrical Costumers".
>
> Thanks,
> Kit

---------------------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 03:10:29 -0500
Status: RO

From: "Wendy Colbert" <wendyc@vivid.net>
>It was always annoying/amusing to have the frosh guys come in and assume
that since I> was a girl I couldn't know what I was doing. They would be
quite annoyed by the time I had them rip the flat they were building a part
for the 3rd time because they couldn't get the corners square, while
assuring methey absolutely knew what they were doing.

In 7th grade I was one of 2 girls brave enough to venture into the guys'
domain of shop. The guys understood the other girl who was a real tom boy,
they really couldn't figure out the real "girl" who would show up for shop
in a skirt. When they figured out that my grades were higher than theirs
they were not pleased. By then I had been sewing seriously for quite a few
years. I knew how to read directions and had the fine motor skills most
teenage boys lack. Two of the more astute guys (who knew me from outside of
shop, one's mother was a seamstress) saw my presence as an advantage. They
were nice to me so I helped them. When I ended up in an almost full length
leg cast I collected on the favors. The other guy never seemed to figure out
why the two were so willing to work with me.

Beth Chamberlain

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ageless Patterns
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:26:11 -0000
Status: RO

I'd say they are not for somebody who is a novice sewer if you know what you
are doing and can draft to your size from the pattern they are a good
source, but you might as well draft up from a drawing. If you happen to be
the right size I would think they are great, but as I'm not it is a matter
of drafting :)

Useful resource but not for your first Victorian attempt generally IMHO

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] French Seams?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 01:26:44 -0800
Status: RO

No doubt this has been discussed, but i don't remember any more...

Anyone have any idea when French seams or something like them were "invented"?

Anahita
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French Seams?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:46:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- lilinah@earthlink.net wrote: > No doubt this has been discussed, but i
don't remember any more...
> 
> Anyone have any idea when French seams or something like them were
> "invented"?

I know it has, and I know I have been confused before, but which is which
again, are the French seams the clipped ones? because run-and-fell (if they are
what I think they are) have been found on textile remains from Germanic 1st c.
AD bogs (Mel, correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm sure I read & saw it in my
German and Danish textile books :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 04:57:27 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:58:02 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

So... I wonder if I'm the only one (and heartily disbelieve this) who used/is
using all those days off work for sewing and other costume bits. I am very
curious what others are working on, go on, please satisfy my curiosity! *grins*

Since I live in this 1711 town house with its tiny rooms, I have no way
whatsoever to cut anything at home. My parents have that big house in the
German forest with two guest apartments, and Ben and I always get the big one
on the top level. Boy is that living room floor HUGE! *happy dance* I took lots
of fabrics with me and cut everything I had ready to cut out, including a half
circle cloak. 

I cut said cloak for the Knight of Shadows costume; 

the wool for the c. 14th c. but relatively generic nun costume for the Far
Isles; 

Ben's new 1660s coat in beautiful dark blue and bright scarlet worsted wool
(red is the lining); 

the toile for the coat I'll wear for my best friend's wedding made from remains
of my mantua (c. 1700 coat but altered, so it is costumey, not authentic!); 

the toile for a present day pin stripe cool jacket from a modern Vogue pattern
that my mum will make for me, trousers are already done; 

another poet shirt from the Folkwear pattern, this time in black; 

a huge white shirt that is fantasy type but will be worn at work; 

the toile for my Elizabethan corset (and went and bought plastic snips for the
Wissner boning too :-). 

Hmm.. I think that was it, I did do some sewing too though, mum keeps a spare
sewing machine in that apartment *G* I fell back a bit in my plans because I
had that stomach bug for two days over Christmas. bah! All this wonderful
german food my mum cooked and I couldn't eat it. Poooey!

Nicole - eager to hear from others!

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 06:36:32 2002
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From: "Lady Mariota" <ladymariota@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 06:30:59 -0500
Status: RO

VIVAT~~~

Working with a small group of children of varying ages is very difficult. To
hold the attention of a 4 year old and a 12 year old is a feat that deserves
an award in itself.

Get the desserts ready, it's early, people are just starting to go to work
or made most of the purchases at the online site.

And thank you for the carriage ride, I've never been on one before.

Children here dress very simply, most over-sized T-Tunics with the theory
they grown beyond their spiritual needs.
    With the tunic, if it.s cold they'll add jeans,,

Most would wear a belt worn over the shirt tails. Black or brown are the
best choices.
    For example a White belt is used to denote a Knight
A Filet and other circlets worn by fellow members are actually demonstration
of skill level. So, please don't wear these.

As to the rest of your note, I can relate, I was the only girl in my German
class,  track team,one of 4 in a class of around 200 in Engineering School.
Mariota
-- Original Message -----
From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 3:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing


> From: "Wendy Colbert" <wendyc@vivid.net>
> >It was always annoying/amusing to have the frosh guys come in and assume
> that since I> was a girl I couldn't know what I was doing. They would be
> quite annoyed by the time I had them rip the flat they were building a
part
> for the 3rd time because they couldn't get the corners square, while
> assuring methey absolutely knew what they were doing.
>
> In 7th grade I was one of 2 girls brave enough to venture into the guys'
> domain of shop. The guys understood the other girl who was a real tom boy,
> they really couldn't figure out the real "girl" who would show up for shop
> in a skirt. When they figured out that my grades were higher than theirs
> they were not pleased. By then I had been sewing seriously for quite a few
> years. I knew how to read directions and had the fine motor skills most
> teenage boys lack. Two of the more astute guys (who knew me from outside
of
> shop, one's mother was a seamstress) saw my presence as an advantage. They
> were nice to me so I helped them. When I ended up in an almost full length
> leg cast I collected on the favors. The other guy never seemed to figure
out
> why the two were so willing to work with me.
>
> Beth Chamberlain
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ageless Patterns
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 07:40:11 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I ordered a few patterns from them.  Basically, they are period patterns,
in one size (the size of the original pattern), though she's redrafted a
few to have multiple sizes.  The instructions that come with the patterns
are those that came with the original patterns as well, so if you're not
familiar with period tailoring techniques (which the instructions assume
you'd know), they can be a bit baffling.  When sewing the man's sack coat
pattern, I had to dig out a book I (luckily) had on 19th c. men's
tailoring -- but even that wasn't as much help as I'd have liked, as that
book, written in the period, also assumed more knowledge of period
tailoring techniques than I actually had.  And the pattern had to be
redrafted to fit the person I was making it for, of course.

On the other hand, I hadn't been able to find a good sack coat pattern
anywhere else, so IF you are good at redrafting, and IF you are confident
enough with period sewing techniques (or don't mind fudging it a bit with
modern techniques), then you might be just fine.  That's probably why she
advertises the patterns the way she does; they're definitely not for
beginners.  She's offering a service that few others do, though --
reprinting (well, redrawing and printing) original patterns as-is.

Cheers,
Mara



On Tue, 31 Dec 2002 Kitsune242@aol.com wrote:

> Greetings All!
>
> I am sorry if this has gone through twice, but there seems to have been a glich in the system...  So, can anyone tell me anything about Ageless Patterns?  Has anyone out there actually used them?  I am a little leary of them since they label themselves as "Historic Costumes for Theatrical Costumers".
>
> Thanks,
> Kit
> _______________________________________________
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 07:58:10 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Afraid most of my holiday sewing has been modern.  My office has been
reorganized and I'm feeling the need to revamp/spruce up my work wardrobe.
So I hemmed a new purple scarf (found fabric that exactly matches a new
sweater I bought), made that happi jacket I was talking about the other
day, made a new gabardine jacket to go with some pants I already have (and
I have enough fabric to make another pair of pants and possibly a skirt),
and am working on another jacket that I'm divided on throwing out and
finishing... I might as well finish it, but the fabric is annoying me.

And (hi, Cindy) I just finished a kind of 'shrug' out of some rust-red
shiny fabric (nylon-cotton) that I bought on Sunday.  The fabric has
little pin-tucks sewn into it at 45-degree angles to the grain of the
fabric, so that it has an all-over diamond pattern.  I was going to make
another happi jacket out of it, but found an idea in an old issue of
Threads magazine: you take a strip of fabric about 2-1/2 yards long and
25 inches wide.  Fold the ends of the strip up to the top border (the cut
edge; use the selvage as the lower edge, if your fabric has a good selvage),
leaving 5" in the center of the strip for your neckline.  Sew.

Voila -- a new 'shrug' to wear over a party dress! (Or, as I'm doing
today, over a black turtleneck and pants; I will probably wear it tonight
over a black dress to a New Year's party.)  I don't know if my
description is clear enough, but it's a nice way to display a pretty
length of fabric  that is somewhat 'crisp', like dupioni or taffeta.  It
might work with softer, drapier fabric, too.

Historic stuff -- well, I think I'm a bit burned out on that at the
moment.  However, I do have one of those Vintage Vogue patterns that I
might use as part of my work wardrobe... I bought some nice black worsted
wool last year that's been waiting for me to cut into it.  I figure it's
not quite 'ripe' yet. <G>

-- Mara


On Tue, 31 Dec 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:

> So... I wonder if I'm the only one (and heartily disbelieve this) who used/is
> using all those days off work for sewing and other costume bits. I am very
> curious what others are working on, go on, please satisfy my curiosity! *grins*

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:14:50 +0100
Status: RO

Hi there!
Did you say hollidays?
I had no holliday at all, being in the nurse buisiness is very very hard.
I worked the 2 christmas days and i went to work today and i must go
tomorrow as well.
Then i have saved a lot of sparetime to spend as hollidays, but that is
impossible because we are  lacking of staff these days.
And i must work next week end two ,besides all the every days there is.
All in all it has ben a pestilens to work where i work and i have considered
to sign off and start as a substitute, it pays much better and i can chose
when i want to work.
Well besides this  deep sigh, i was so foolish to say yes to a friend who
tared her dress lately. Her sleaves fell off when she was undressing
herself.
She is a member of the swedish society Gustavs Skål, and i agreed to make
her a sack dress wich she is going to use january 21. So i must have it
finished january 14. so that i can ship it away to Sweden.
It is made in wine red shot dupioni silk, a sack with a lot of gathered
ruches all over, and it takes such a long time to do, because the fabric is
so stiff..............
So everyday i come home from work, i take a break and have a lots of coffe
before i start my sewing ½ an hour later. And i must prepare dinner and make
the shoppings two.
Sooooooooo gues who is sleaping very tight these nights?
Wonderfull to have such a large cutting space, i surely could use some of
that.
Lovely you got all that cutting made and had a nice christmas.

Happy Newyear everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 10:58 AM
Subject: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?


> So... I wonder if I'm the only one (and heartily disbelieve this) who
used/is
> using all those days off work for sewing and other costume bits. I am very
> curious what others are working on, go on, please satisfy my curiosity!
*grins*
>
> Since I live in this 1711 town house with its tiny rooms, I have no way
> whatsoever to cut anything at home. My parents have that big house in the
> German forest with two guest apartments, and Ben and I always get the big
one
> on the top level. Boy is that living room floor HUGE! *happy dance* I took
lots
> of fabrics with me and cut everything I had ready to cut out, including a
half
> circle cloak.
>
> I cut said cloak for the Knight of Shadows costume;
>
> the wool for the c. 14th c. but relatively generic nun costume for the Far
> Isles;
>
> Ben's new 1660s coat in beautiful dark blue and bright scarlet worsted
wool
> (red is the lining);
>
> the toile for the coat I'll wear for my best friend's wedding made from
remains
> of my mantua (c. 1700 coat but altered, so it is costumey, not
authentic!);
>
> the toile for a present day pin stripe cool jacket from a modern Vogue
pattern
> that my mum will make for me, trousers are already done;
>
> another poet shirt from the Folkwear pattern, this time in black;
>
> a huge white shirt that is fantasy type but will be worn at work;
>
> the toile for my Elizabethan corset (and went and bought plastic snips for
the
> Wissner boning too :-).
>
> Hmm.. I think that was it, I did do some sewing too though, mum keeps a
spare
> sewing machine in that apartment *G* I fell back a bit in my plans because
I
> had that stomach bug for two days over Christmas. bah! All this wonderful
> german food my mum cooked and I couldn't eat it. Poooey!
>
> Nicole - eager to hear from others!
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
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Subject: [h-cost] That purple Gustavus Adolphus outfit
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:32:24 -0500
Status: RO

Seeing some of the same questions pop up on another list -- and being back 
in Queens for the first time in over a week -- I remembered that I had more 
information on the outfit in an exhibition catalog...

 From _Sweden: A Royal Treasury 1550-1700_, edited by Michael Conforti and 
Guy Walton (National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, and the Minneapolis 
Institute of Arts, copyright 1988, ISBN 0-89468-119-2)...
The catalog note says that the three extant pieces (cassock, knee breeches, 
and tight doublet), which are what's exhibited, "were probably combined 
with a coat, stockings, baldric, gloves, shoes with rosettes, and an 
elaborate lace collar..."

The diagonally-closing piece we've all been talking about (on both lists) 
is apparently part of the cassock, as is everything we see above the waist 
*except* the forearms, which are part of the fitted doublet worn beneath. 
The catalog states that the cassock "buttons diagonally across the left 
front"; since we don't *see* any buttons, I'd presume it's one of those 
hidden-button type closures.

While it isn't stated so in the catalog, I rather get the impression that 
the cassock would be worn with the baldric harnessed over the doublet, and 
under the left shoulder and back of the cassock, with only the front and 
right-hip sections outside the cassock. This set-up would indicate that 
king Gustavus Adolphus either drew his sword from the same side as his 
weapons arm (unlikely), or that he was left-handed (how likely would this 
have been in early 1600's Sweden?).

Does anyone have any more information (or enlightened speculation) to add 
to this?

Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:55:50 EST
Status: RO

Well since our New Year's Eve Party is a costumne 'to-do'---with Royalty as 
it's theme--I have been finishing off a new Directoire period ball gown--as I 
am to play Napoleon's Josephine---have actually been off work sick---but 
while trying to get better --I've been picking away at my project---a pale 
antigue gold satin, over-laid with gold embroidered net, and tiny metal 
tasseled trim ,criss-crossing the bodice---and all around the over skirt , 
and then up the front left side of the dress. Have been watching some good 
'eye-candy'--like 'Sense and Sensibility', as well as Pride and 
Predjudice'---to try to stay inspired.Still have a pair of pants to finish 
for my husband------and all this by tonight-----gakkkk!! Wish me luck!
Happy New Year to All!!
Albra
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:17:26 -0700
Status: RO

*droool* I can only wish I'd had the time off, and the lovely-sounding
space in which to sew and cut.
I just got Christmas day off from work.  Plus, there was an emergency at
work, and I got to work this weekend <grump! Beats me how someone
*else's* mistake means *I* come in on the weekend!>
I get tomorrow (New Year's Day) off, too, and I'll be doing all the
house chores I didn't get to, this past weekend.
Some of us, however, have managed to book the large meeting room at our
local public library for all the Sunday afternoons in January except the
first one.  *Then* I get to cut out some things.
I'm going to be concentrating on getting a gothic fitted gown cut out,
and then, I'm going to be making my first Flemish market gowns--lots of
fitting and such involved, since I'm doing it from the skin, out (and my
patterns need readjusting anyways).
Did you get to bring any of your mom's cooking back to England with you?
Somehow, there's nothing that compares to mom-food, no matter where
she's from!
--sue, who lives in a narrow 1978 trailer <g>, so she knows about small
rooms!

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> So... I wonder if I'm the only one (and heartily disbelieve this) who used/is
> using all those days off work for sewing and other costume bits. I am very
> curious what others are working on, go on, please satisfy my curiosity! *grins*
> 
> Since I live in this 1711 town house with its tiny rooms, I have no way
> whatsoever to cut anything at home. My parents have that big house in the
> German forest with two guest apartments, and Ben and I always get the big one
> on the top level. Boy is that living room floor HUGE! *happy dance* I took lots
> of fabrics with me and cut everything I had ready to cut out, including a half
> circle cloak.
> 
> I cut said cloak for the Knight of Shadows costume;
> 
> the wool for the c. 14th c. but relatively generic nun costume for the Far
> Isles;
> 
> Ben's new 1660s coat in beautiful dark blue and bright scarlet worsted wool
> (red is the lining);
> 
> the toile for the coat I'll wear for my best friend's wedding made from remains
> of my mantua (c. 1700 coat but altered, so it is costumey, not authentic!);
> 
> the toile for a present day pin stripe cool jacket from a modern Vogue pattern
> that my mum will make for me, trousers are already done;
> 
> another poet shirt from the Folkwear pattern, this time in black;
> 
> a huge white shirt that is fantasy type but will be worn at work;
> 
> the toile for my Elizabethan corset (and went and bought plastic snips for the
> Wissner boning too :-).
> 
> Hmm.. I think that was it, I did do some sewing too though, mum keeps a spare
> sewing machine in that apartment *G* I fell back a bit in my plans because I
> had that stomach bug for two days over Christmas. bah! All this wonderful
> german food my mum cooked and I couldn't eat it. Poooey!
> 
> Nicole - eager to hear from others!
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 07:40:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

*Lol*  Nicole, you certainly weren't the only one to
sew costume-y things over the holidays.

Almost finished a Pre-Raphaelite gown (just need one
more row of cord, and then bead the trim)

Cut out 9 of 17 outfits for a friend who needs "girly
things" for SCA and Cons:  1 GFD, 7 11th Century
gowns, 1 "Irish" style gown (but with sleeves), and 1
pelicon, plus a veil and barbette.  So far, the GFD
needs facings, hem, and the buttonholes/buttons; 2 of
the 11th C. gowns are half done, including the
embellishment.

cut out and pinned the curtains for my Great Room (not
really costume-y until you see that my house is
decorated in a Victorian "Gothic" style)

Cut out and pinned together the McGonagall style green
velvet gown

Cut out 3/4 of the Queen of Spades and Queen of Clubs
outfits for the Masquerade in April, sewed most of the
seams on one gown and the skirts for the overgowns.

Tonight we are going to drop in for a short while on
"First Night" in downtown Tacoma--last year I was one
of the performers and ended up on the front page--and
then we are having a sewing party.

With tomorrow off, I hope to have the cording done on
the Pre-Raphaelite, 4 outfits for my friend, and the
seams done on the McGonagall at the least, and
hopefully the curtains as well.

Angharat, the insane

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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:39:36 -0500
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?


> Hi there!
> Did you say hollidays?
> I had no holliday at all, being in the nurse buisiness is very very hard.
> I worked the 2 christmas days and i went to work today and i must go
> tomorrow as well.
> Then i have saved a lot of sparetime to spend as hollidays, but that is
> impossible because we are  lacking of staff these days.
> And i must work next week end two ,besides all the every days there is.
> All in all it has ben a pestilens to work where i work and i have
considered
> to sign off and start as a substitute, it pays much better and i can chose
> when i want to work.
> Well besides this  deep sigh, i was so foolish to say yes to a friend who
> tared her dress lately. Her sleaves fell off when she was undressing
> herself.
> She is a member of the swedish society Gustavs Skål, and i agreed to make
> her a sack dress wich she is going to use january 21. So i must have it
> finished january 14. so that i can ship it away to Sweden.
> It is made in wine red shot dupioni silk, a sack with a lot of gathered
> ruches all over, and it takes such a long time to do, because the fabric
is
> so stiff..............

Mmmm...wine red dupioni....sounds absolutely stunning, Bjarne! Can't wait to
see the photos of this one!

Dianne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 07:18:40 -0800
Status: RO

>     For example a White belt is used to denote a Knight
> A Filet and other circlets worn by fellow members are actually 
> demonstration of skill level. So, please don't wear these.

It depends where you're from. Plain circlets are quite acceptable in An
Tir on person who have no rank. Different styles of circlets denote
specific ranks. But then again, I understand we're a bit different from
other SCA kingdoms in this regard. :)

Arlys

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French Seams?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:17:17 -0800
Status: RO

 
> I know it has, and I know I have been confused before, but which is
> which again, are the French seams the clipped ones? because
> run-and-fell (if they are what I think they are) have been found on
> textile remains from Germanic 1st c. AD bogs (Mel, correct me if I'm
> wrong, but I'm sure I read & saw it in my German and Danish textile
> books :-)

French seams are the ones which are completely enclosed on the inside 
by self fabric and which can't be detected from the exterior. They 
are most commonly used on translucent/transparent fabrics such as 
silks to finish the seam. One way (but not the only way) of doing 
them is to sew your garment inside out with a tiny seam (1/4", ie 
2/8"), then turn it right side out and resew the seam at 3/8" (so 
that the first seam doesn't catch in the one which shows from the 
outside but so that the total is still 5/8". Another way to do it is 
to sew the regular seam, then on the inside seam edges tuck them in 
and sew along the folded-in edge. (This one gives a slightly bulkier 
seam, which I don't recommend.)

Mock fell and Flat Fell are the ones which are seen much earlier and 
have the second line of stitching to stabilize it (like the seams on 
jeans or the methods seen in bog finds, Viking graves, London digs, 
extant clothes from the 16th C, etc.) I'm don't recall when "French 
seams" come in, but I know it wasn't prior to 1600 from everything 
I've seen and read.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:24:05 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Good luck!  Post pictures!

-- Mara


On Tue, 31 Dec 2002 AlbraKat@aol.com wrote:

> Well since our New Year's Eve Party is a costumne 'to-do'---with Royalty as
> it's theme--I have been finishing off a new Directoire period ball gown--as I
> am to play Napoleon's Josephine--
(snip)

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Subject: [h-cost] Was: Xmas Gifts--Now:Fashion & Imagination: Masquerade
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:24:22 EST
Status: RO


--part1_ad.2884674d.2b431eb6_boundary
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"Fashion and Imagination: Masquerade".  It was 
advertised in the most recent (Jan.) Sew News, phone for ordering is (800) 
590-3465.  Cost including shipping is $13.45, in case anyone is interested.

Sandy

It's available at Borders and other fine bookstores for $9.99.  Larry bought 
me one for Christmas, too.  :)

Ramona

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>"Fashion and Imagination: Masquerade". &nbsp;It was 
<BR>advertised in the most recent (Jan.) Sew News, phone for ordering is (800) 
<BR>590-3465. &nbsp;Cost including shipping is $13.45, in case anyone is interested.
<BR>
<BR>Sandy
<BR>
<BR>It's available at Borders and other fine bookstores for $9.99. &nbsp;Larry bought me one for Christmas, too. &nbsp;:)
<BR>
<BR>Ramona</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:26:08 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 31 Dec 2002, Angharad ver' Reynulf wrote:
> Cut out and pinned together the McGonagall style green
> velvet gown

Ooh, I was thinking of making one of those.  Did you drape it yourself?
Wanna see pictures!  And now I know where to get the velvet... <g>

-- Mara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French Seams?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:39:03 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- kat@grendal.rain.com wrote: >  

> Mock fell and Flat Fell are the ones which are seen much earlier and 
> have the second line of stitching to stabilize it (like the seams on 
> jeans or the methods seen in bog finds, Viking graves, London digs, 
> extant clothes from the 16th C, etc.) I'm don't recall when "French 
> seams" come in, but I know it wasn't prior to 1600 from everything 
> I've seen and read.

Goodie goodie, that means I did remember at last which is which. :-) 
I love run-and-fell seams (as they are commonly called here), but my second
line of stitching is NOT like jeams ones, the line is invisible, because it is
stitched down when folded over with a slip stitch. makes fantastically sturdy
seams on fine linens.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Ease-up Bjarne life's too short
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:39:37 +0000
Status: RO

Rough schedule you've got there Bjarne - ease up a bit and have some 
fun.Resigning and signing up as a 'substitute' isn't such a bad idea and 
could make it possible for you to spend more doing the stuff you love 
and are so obviously  talented towards.

Happy New Year and may it be a joyous & prosperous one for you and yours.

Marcus.


On Tuesday, December 31, 2002, at 01:14  pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi there!
> Did you say hollidays?
> I had no holliday at all, being in the nurse buisiness is very very 
> hard.
> I worked the 2 christmas days and i went to work today and i must go
> tomorrow as well.
> Then i have saved a lot of sparetime to spend as hollidays, but that is
> impossible because we are  lacking of staff these days.
> And i must work next week end two ,besides all the every days there is.
> All in all it has ben a pestilens to work where i work and i have 
> considered
> to sign off and start as a substitute, it pays much better and i can 
> chose
> when i want to work.
> Well besides this  deep sigh, i was so foolish to say yes to a friend 
> who
> tared her dress lately. Her sleaves fell off when she was undressing
> herself.
> She is a member of the swedish society Gustavs Skål, and i agreed to 
> make
> her a sack dress wich she is going to use january 21. So i must have it
> finished january 14. so that i can ship it away to Sweden.
> It is made in wine red shot dupioni silk, a sack with a lot of gathered
> ruches all over, and it takes such a long time to do, because the 
> fabric is
> so stiff..............
> So everyday i come home from work, i take a break and have a lots of 
> coffe
> before i start my sewing ½ an hour later. And i must prepare dinner and 
> make
> the shoppings two.
> Sooooooooo gues who is sleaping very tight these nights?
> Wonderfull to have such a large cutting space, i surely could use some 
> of
> that.
> Lovely you got all that cutting made and had a nice christmas.
>
> Happy Newyear everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
> To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 10:58 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
>
>
>> So... I wonder if I'm the only one (and heartily disbelieve this) who
> used/is
>> using all those days off work for sewing and other costume bits. I am 
>> very
>> curious what others are working on, go on, please satisfy my curiosity!
> *grins*
>>
>> Since I live in this 1711 town house with its tiny rooms, I have no way
>> whatsoever to cut anything at home. My parents have that big house in 
>> the
>> German forest with two guest apartments, and Ben and I always get the 
>> big
> one
>> on the top level. Boy is that living room floor HUGE! *happy dance* I 
>> took
> lots
>> of fabrics with me and cut everything I had ready to cut out, 
>> including a
> half
>> circle cloak.
>>
>> I cut said cloak for the Knight of Shadows costume;
>>
>> the wool for the c. 14th c. but relatively generic nun costume for the 
>> Far
>> Isles;
>>
>> Ben's new 1660s coat in beautiful dark blue and bright scarlet worsted
> wool
>> (red is the lining);
>>
>> the toile for the coat I'll wear for my best friend's wedding made from
> remains
>> of my mantua (c. 1700 coat but altered, so it is costumey, not
> authentic!);
>>
>> the toile for a present day pin stripe cool jacket from a modern Vogue
> pattern
>> that my mum will make for me, trousers are already done;
>>
>> another poet shirt from the Folkwear pattern, this time in black;
>>
>> a huge white shirt that is fantasy type but will be worn at work;
>>
>> the toile for my Elizabethan corset (and went and bought plastic snips 
>> for
> the
>> Wissner boning too :-).
>>
>> Hmm.. I think that was it, I did do some sewing too though, mum keeps a
> spare
>> sewing machine in that apartment *G* I fell back a bit in my plans 
>> because
> I
>> had that stomach bug for two days over Christmas. bah! All this 
>> wonderful
>> german food my mum cooked and I couldn't eat it. Poooey!
>>
>> Nicole - eager to hear from others!
>>
>> =====
>> Nicole Kipar M.A.
>> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:46:58 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Angharad ver' Reynulf <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com> wrote: > *
> Almost finished a Pre-Raphaelite gown (just need one
> more row of cord, and then bead the trim)

Pictures! pictures! Phuleeze!!!

> Cut out 9 of 17 outfits for a friend who needs "girly

Good grief! Why oh why am I so slow *G*

> cut out and pinned the curtains for my Great Room (not
> really costume-y until you see that my house is
> decorated in a Victorian "Gothic" style)

Hehehe, Volin (my BF's father) calls my room "Victorian Baroque"

> Cut out and pinned together the McGonagall style green
> velvet gown

What's that? Curious minds need to know.

> of the performers and ended up on the front page--and
> then we are having a sewing party.

Cool!
We are going to the pub next door, then at midnight it's lovely fireworks, then
the landlady's midnight snack and another pint, and then beddiebye and dreaming
of many more costumes and a new job.

Oh yes folks, I will go back to university after I got my A level in chemistry.
Watch this space. One is never too old to make a complete U-turn in one's
career. :-))))

Nicole - who FINALLY realised what she really, really wants to do, at the age
of almost 34.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:51:57 +0000
Status: RO


On Tuesday, December 31, 2002, at 09:58  am, N Kipar wrote:

> So... I wonder if I'm the only one (and heartily disbelieve this) who 
> used/is
> using all those days off work for sewing and other costume bits. I am 
> very
> curious what others are working on, go on, please satisfy my curiosity! 
> *grins*

You've been very productive Nicole.

Hhhhmmm instead of finishing off my garb projects I'm packing them up 
until we've moved.
I've spent my holidays making a bolster for my bed - an old duvet worked 
wonders for the shape and plumpness.The cover is black dupioni silk with 
very large  11" tassels on the ends which are topped with niffty brass 
'cuffs'.A smaller scrap became another bolster for my persona and 
comfort at events - still have to find some fabric to cover it tho'.My 
fabric place is having a 30% off sale thru' to  Sat.Worked on designs 
for my bed and paint effects.

On the costumey side well do garb sketches for my web page count?I've 
got six or seven done so far,just got the gilt paint to fill in and 
they're completed.Hopefully they can be scanned and sent off to a pal 
who is helping me do a simple show & tell display.

Marcus.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French Seams?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:58:58 +0000
Status: RO


On Tuesday, December 31, 2002, at 04:39  pm, N Kipar wrote:

>  --- kat@grendal.rain.com wrote: >
>
>> Mock fell and Flat Fell are the ones which are seen much earlier and
>> have the second line of stitching to stabilize it (like the seams on
>> jeans or the methods seen in bog finds, Viking graves, London digs,
>> extant clothes from the 16th C, etc.) I'm don't recall when "French
>> seams" come in, but I know it wasn't prior to 1600 from everything
>> I've seen and read.
>
> Goodie goodie, that means I did remember at last which is which. :-)
> I love run-and-fell seams (as they are commonly called here), but my 
> second
> line of stitching is NOT like jeams ones, the line is invisible, 
> because it is
> stitched down when folded over with a slip stitch. makes fantastically 
> sturdy
> seams on fine linens.

Works a nice sturdy seam for heavy wools and velvets too.

Marcus.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French Seams?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:16:09 -0000
Status: RO

>French seams are the ones which are completely enclosed on the inside
by self fabric and which can't be detected from the exterior

Yes this is what I was taught at school (ie you sew the wrong sides together
turn indise out sew and encase edges)
. But several of my sources suggest the clipped ones as French hems as
Nicole postulated

Mel

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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 13:43:37 EST
Status: RO

:) Thanks, Mara--as soon as we get that new digital camara working ,I will!
Albra
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 13:23:46 -0800
Status: RO


>So... I wonder if I'm the only one (and heartily disbelieve this) who used/is
>using all those days off work for sewing and other costume bits. I am very
>curious what others are working on, go on, please satisfy my curiosity! 
>*grins*

After several weekends of doing Dickens' Fair, I have been slacking off and 
resting these days, getting over the nastiest cold I think I have ever 
had.  I've had laryngitis for a week and a half, and I'm still not over it.

Mostly I am planning.  2003 is the year I want to get a cloth-doll business 
together, a website up, and many dolls made and sold (it says right here in 
my business plan).  After realizing that making costumes for me was mostly 
an obligation (can't go to those events badly dressed, or naked), I 
realized I was using doll making/costuming as a reward for doing the sewing 
for me.  So I took a hard look at the few periods I actually do these days 
(Dickens' Fair, the 1890s, maybe Regency, Science Fiction/Fantasy, and 
Fibre Art events), and how few dresses/outfits it would take me to get thru 
an entire weekend of any of them, and made plans only to do those costumes 
in 2003.  It was like losing weight, not feeling obligated to do garments 
for all those periods I would merely like to do, that I used to do, or that 
I might do again.  And it means I can get rid of several half-finished 
projects in periods I will probably never do again or never even get into.

I can do any period I want to for dolls, without having to worry about 
where to find an event at which to wear them, or how to afford the 
event.  Now I can do slinky 1930s or willowy 1920s, or anything else my own 
body just won't co-operate with, since I am making the dolls as well as 
their clothes.  Now it won't break the bank to put enough jewels on 
Elizabethans, nor take me forever to do the blackwork the same dress 
requires.  And the closet space required will be much less, not to mention 
the fabric requirements.  Now I really can have all those dresses I always 
wanted.

So it looks like a fun year ahead for me.  I'll post the url when there's 
something worth seeing on it.  And I still have plenty of full-size 
historicals to do.

Kayta

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Subject: Site update because: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 11:50:32 +1300
Status: RO

> >It's traditional, I always ask this question.  What sewing and costume
> >related goodies did everyone get for Christmas?

I got a digital camera because I am chutter happy;) I am using it to take
piccies in progress of costumes I'm working on as it's too expensive to do
this using a traditional camer:) I'm still getting used to how it handles,
and I'm infinately better ay landscape shots that portraits (though I can
direct someone else to take a good portrait) :)

So I've updated my costume pages to include three new no where near finished
costumes, as well as new piccies of the plastron of my german ren gown:)
Real pearls on it too, potato and rounds:)
http://recital.tripod.com/costume

I'll be taking photos of my mixed media dolls too:)

Also for Christmas I got an abandonned kitten... so I now have one of those
fabric cats that sits on costumes so you get no work done and what is done
is all fluffy;) He's deaf so we think that was the reason he was left. And
he's absolutely manic.. a real handful:)

So that's me for the day:) It's my birthday tomorrow and I do not expect to
get anything quite so useful;)

michaela


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Subject: [h-cost] Sumptuary Laws/Customs
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:56:55 -0800
Status: RO

I've been recovering from an attack of Real Life (tm), and now have the
creeping crud so I can catch up on the messages that have accumulated in my
IN box.

The subject of sumptuary customs has come up in AnTir, which to my limited
knowledge doesn't have any, and I remembered one of the costume lists I'm on
did a spread-sheet comparing such customs across the SCA.  Can anyone help
me locate it?

I'm specifically interested in the limiting of belt colors other than white
and red.

Regina Romsey


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From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sumptuary Laws/Customs
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 13:06:52 -1000 (HST)
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> The subject of sumptuary customs has come up in AnTir, which to my limited
> knowledge doesn't have any, and I remembered one of the costume lists I'm on
> did a spread-sheet comparing such customs across the SCA.  Can anyone help
> me locate it?

	This isn't the page you're referring to since there is no
spreadsheet, but there's some information and a set of links to most of
kingdoms' Kingdom Law/sumptuary law pages.
Sumptuary Laws in the SCA
http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/sumptuary.htm

--annora

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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:19:28 -0600
Status: RO

Browsing around trying to find more images of 16th cent. lower-class stuff,
I found this site.
http://www.artunframed.com/

Imagine, if you can't get to the original, just have a copy made and sent to
you! Aaaaaahhhhhhh.....someday.......*sigh*


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

There's no such thing as too many books!

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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Subject: Re: Site update because: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 18:40:18 -0500
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: Site update because: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?


> >> So I've updated my costume pages to include three new no where near
finished
> costumes, as well as new piccies of the plastron of my german ren gown:)
> Real pearls on it too, potato and rounds:)
> http://recital.tripod.com/costume

Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. (wiping the drool off my monitor now)
>
> I'll be taking photos of my mixed media dolls too:)
>
> Also for Christmas I got an abandonned kitten... so I now have one of
those
> fabric cats that sits on costumes so you get no work done and what is done
> is all fluffy;) He's deaf so we think that was the reason he was left. And
> he's absolutely manic.. a real handful:)

poor baby--I'm glad he found someone to love him!
>
> So that's me for the day:) It's my birthday tomorrow and I do not expect
to
> get anything quite so useful;)

Happy birthday!!

Dianne
>
> michaela
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] disciplining deaf 'fabric cats' (wasRe: Site update because: [h-cost]
 What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:37:16 -0800
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>Also for Christmas I got an abandonned kitten... so I now have one of those
>fabric cats that sits on costumes so you get no work done and what is done
>is all fluffy;) He's deaf so we think that was the reason he was left. And
>he's absolutely manic.. a real handful:)

If he is all white, he may have been born Deaf.  Discipline him with a 
water squirt bottle or squirt gun, because he won't hear your frantic cries 
of 'get off my fabric!'.  You could also use a rolled up sock to throw at 
him, same purpose.  Pounding on something near him, where he can feel the 
vibrations, may get his attention.  He won't be able to hear the can opener 
work, but he will be able to smell the cat food (you probably know that by 
now).


Kayta

    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:51:52 -0700
Status: RO

What's that (that you want to do)? The last I heard, I thought you were
going for your PhD?
--sue, who never did figure out what she wanted to do, that people would
also pay her for! <g>

N Kipar wrote:
> 

> Oh yes folks, I will go back to university after I got my A level in chemistry.
> Watch this space. One is never too old to make a complete U-turn in one's
> career. :-))))
> 
> Nicole - who FINALLY realised what she really, really wants to do, at the age
> of almost 34.
>
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 01:20:22 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > What's that (that you want to
do)? The last I heard, I thought you were
> going for your PhD?
> --sue, who never did figure out what she wanted to do, that people would
> also pay her for! <g>

I always wanted to be a conservator!!!!!

Nicole - not having given up on the PhD either (yet)

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:27:21 -0800
Status: RO

A One is never too old to make a complete U-turn in one's
>> career. :-))))
>> 
>> Nicole - who FINALLY realised what she really, really wants to do, at
the age
>> of almost 34.
>>

Nicole, you're a mere child!  I was 43 when my life's work became apparent.  

Of course, I had my mother's example to look to;  she decided at the age of
37 to become a lawyer.  Which was no small undertaking for a married woman
with three children, in a small town 50 miles from the nearest law school,
in 1968.  She did it, though, and is still practicing, and one of the few
lawyers I know who actually loves her work. My father says her tution was
the best investment he's ever made.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the newly updated Historic Costume Patterns website at
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 01:41:14 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com> wrote: >
> Nicole, you're a mere child!  I was 43 when my life's work became apparent.  

Thanks Margo! :-) and a Happy New Greenwich Time New Year. *G*

> Of course, I had my mother's example to look to;  she decided at the age of
> 37 to become a lawyer.  Which was no small undertaking for a married woman
> with three children, in a small town 50 miles from the nearest law school,
> in 1968.  She did it, though, and is still practicing, and one of the few
> lawyers I know who actually loves her work. My father says her tution was
> the best investment he's ever made.

Cool! Full marks for your mum. Now, the thing is though, how am I going to
finance myself? No clue yet, but I believe that there is always a solution!
many thousand pounds for a second (third?) education? Oh well, there are
miracles, no? 
On a costume note, it will mean that in the near future there won't be anymore
expensive silks and brocades and exquisite gowns by fabulous tailors and
seamstresses and corset makers, but it'll be back to the bargain table.

We only have one life, so we better make the truest best of it I guess :-)

Nicole - ready to work down her stash of fabrics in the next years to come

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 01:51:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote: > > >

Great photos as usual!
I love the german ren one, have been following it for a while.

> So that's me for the day:) It's my birthday tomorrow and I do not expect to
> get anything quite so useful;)

Happy birthday, dear!

*hugs from another continent*

But at least they/we shared the same Queen for a while, no? :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 20:55:39 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] disciplining deaf 'fabric cats' (wasRe: Site update because: [h-cost] What'd you get for Christmas?
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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 14:56:07 +1300
Status: RO

> If he is all white, he may have been born Deaf.  Discipline him with a
> water squirt bottle or squirt gun, because he won't hear your frantic
cries
> of 'get off my fabric!'.  You could also use a rolled up sock to throw at
> him, same purpose.  Pounding on something near him, where he can feel the
> vibrations, may get his attention.  He won't be able to hear the can
opener
> work, but he will be able to smell the cat food (you probably know that by
> now).

Yeah:) I had a good search of the web and found a page to work out just how
deaf he is (he actually has green in his eyes, and our first white cat had
green eyes and could hear) He can't hear high pitches (jaggling keys) nor
low pitches (likes hte vacuum cleaner...) but he is learning to feel
vibrations when I stamp the floor or bang on the dresser where he gets fed.

Unfortunately he likes things being thrown at him and thinks it's a game;)
And he's not too shy of water. I'm going to try and find just what stream
and temp of water though will work as my drink bottle with a sipper top is
more fun for him than anything;)

Heck he even likes to nibble my pin cushion with all the lovely spikey
needles in it;)

Yep he's going to be a handful but then we do have a blind dog so we know
all about pets with physical challenges:)

All we need now is a mute bird;)

michaela


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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 14:59:11 +1300
Status: RO

> > Real pearls on it too, potato and rounds:)
> > http://recital.tripod.com/costume
>
> Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. (wiping the drool off my monitor now)

lol! Thank you, as I said most of the new pages are of costumes not
finished, or anywhere near complete... in fact I think technically the only
finished and left alone costumes are my Irish dance one and the chemise;)
Everything else is pulled apart to make over.

> > He's deaf so we think that was the reason he was left. And
> > he's absolutely manic.. a real handful:)
>
> poor baby--I'm glad he found someone to love him!

It's one thing I could never do, if I knew of an animal in trouble I could
not pass it by, human too for that matter though it gets more tricky there
are to just how much helpyou can give:)

> > So that's me for the day:) It's my birthday tomorrow and I do not expect
> to
> > get anything quite so useful;)
>
> Happy birthday!!

Thanks:) I know I'm getting some cosmeticy stuff;)

michaela
http://recital.tripod.com/costume
making pages for my dolls right now:)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 18:32:52 -0800
Status: RO

Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:
>  >     For example a White belt is used to denote a Knight
>  > A Filet and other circlets worn by fellow members are actually
>  > demonstration of skill level. So, please don't wear these.
>
>It depends where you're from. Plain circlets are quite acceptable in An
>Tir on person who have no rank. Different styles of circlets denote
>specific ranks. But then again, I understand we're a bit different from
>other SCA kingdoms in this regard. :)

That's 'cuz An Tir is the baby of The West, and plain circlets can be 
worn by anyone here in The West.

It's the specific decorations on a circlet that moves it into the 
realm of restricted insignia/regalia.

Anahita
in the SCA Kingdom of the West
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 21:57:24 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 19:58:34 -0700
Status: RO


Hokay guys, please take the SCA regalia discussion off the list.
Thanks.

					...eliz, list admin


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 21:57:42 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and costume/sewing
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 18:48:26 -0800
Status: RO

Penny - you have the right amount of children.  I am just discovering the 
joys of all the kids I should have had.  Tim went to college and came home 
with the greatest gift he could... lots of girls.  They decided that all of 
them wanted to make victorian corsets, including the fourteen year old 
younger sister of one of them who plays on her high school football team 
and my own dance obsessed fifteen year old.  So, I showed them everything 
they needed, and a variety of patterns.  They decided on the Laughing Moon 
corset pattern.  We fit the first two last night and will do the others 
tonight.  It is a nice night, so I sent them off to the outdoor ice skating 
rink.  It is fun teaching them to sew.  The laughing moon pattern is pretty 
easy to use.  I don't know what will happen when we get to the busk 
part.  I have lots of boning, but not busks.
Thursday I take them all back to Santa Cruz and it is just me, my daughter 
and dance.  Oh well, they will be back. maryann

At 01:55 AM 12/27/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Maryann,
>
>I know what you mean about having fun with the girls!!!!!  My daughter is
>obsessed with hairstyles... she tolerates my obsession with costume.  A
>wonderful Christmas present to me (although he doesn't know it) was that my
>first son is dating a girl who has interest in historic costume!!!  She
>actually took classes with me when I was in college but I didn't know her
>then.  It isn't that she is old... it was me... I graduated at 40.  My son
>thinks it is neat to have someone who he can talk fashion with.  This is my
>son who took color coordinating his clothes at age 4 a little too seriously.
>
>My 4th son, is a theater tech.  He dates girls who are in the dept. or he
>recruits them to work on shows before he will date them.  Then he brings
>them home and shows off all my goodies... like my antique fans.
>
>#4 son gave me the most wonderful Christmas.  When I was working on the
>Japanese quilt, my little Katie wanted to learn to sew on the machine.  I
>was cutting fabric, and really didn't have much patience to work with my
>impatient daughter.  I told her to get on the machine and practice sewing
>straight seams.  Of course in 5 minutes, she was throwing a fit and had the
>bobbin messed up.  #4 son came in and started teaching her how to sew on the
>machine.  I almost fell out of my chair.  I asked him... where did he learn
>to sew on a machine.  He said, "Mom, I have been awarded Theatre Tech of the
>Year for the past two years.  I sew the costumes for the shows!!!"    You
>could have knocked me over with a feather.  I knew he was helping with the
>costumes.  All along, I thought he was just cutting the costumes for the
>shows.  I am just thrilled to know my gift of sewing was passed on to one of
>my children.  He said that all the techies are required to sew on the
>machines.
>
>Lastly, #2 son... the artsy sculptor one... saw the quilt and said, "You
>know, I would like to learn to sew on a machine to make an artsy quilt."
>This son has known how to sew by hand his whole life.  I told him about some
>of the artsy quilt shows I have been too.  He is interested in going to the
>Williamsburg Quilt Show in February with me.  This show can inspire anyone!!
>If he starts quilting, I can't wait to see what he would design.  He just
>bubbles with creative ideas.  He sells a lot of his artwork and thinks this
>might be a good medium for him to go into.
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
>
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Dec 31 22:20:25 2002
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From: MaryAnn Jones <mabse@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costumey did you sew/make over the holidays?
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 19:10:03 -0800
Status: RO

Days off?  didn't happen.  I mostly taught kids to sew after work and 
worked on my sister's graduation dress.  It is an Irish dress and 
leine.  the leine is bright yellow gauze with black/gold/  purple celtic 
trim.  The Irish dress will be turquoise raw silk  with more 
purple/black/gold trim.  I lost the pattern, so it is going to be a 
challenge to make it.  Her graduation is January 11th so I don't have much 
time.  but the kids did straighten up my sewing room so I can get to the 
cutting table.

I can't imagine living in an early 18th century house.  Just think, the 
people who lived there initially wore clothes like the ones that Bjorne 
makes, except probably less fancy.  Maybe he should come visit you and hold 
seances and connect with the spirits of the 18th century occupants and get 
their opinion on clothing.

maryann

  At 09:58 AM 12/31/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>So... I wonder if I'm the only one (and heartily disbelieve this) who used/is
>using all those days off work for sewing and other costume bits. I am very
>curious what others are working on, go on, please satisfy my curiosity! 
>*grins*
>
>Since I live in this 1711 town house with its tiny rooms, I have no way
>whatsoever to cut anything at home. My parents have that big house in the
>German forest with two guest apartments, and Ben and I always get the big one
>on the top level. Boy is that living room floor HUGE! *happy dance* I took 
>lots
>of fabrics with me and cut everything I had ready to cut out, including a half
>circle cloak.
>
>I cut said cloak for the Knight of Shadows costume;
>
>the wool for the c. 14th c. but relatively generic nun costume for the Far
>Isles;
>
>Ben's new 1660s coat in beautiful dark blue and bright scarlet worsted wool
>(red is the lining);
>
>the toile for the coat I'll wear for my best friend's wedding made from 
>remains
>of my mantua (c. 1700 coat but altered, so it is costumey, not authentic!);
>
>the toile for a present day pin stripe cool jacket from a modern Vogue pattern
>that my mum will make for me, trousers are already done;
>
>another poet shirt from the Folkwear pattern, this time in black;
>
>a huge white shirt that is fantasy type but will be worn at work;
>
>the toile for my Elizabethan corset (and went and bought plastic snips for the
>Wissner boning too :-).
>
>Hmm.. I think that was it, I did do some sewing too though, mum keeps a spare
>sewing machine in that apartment *G* I fell back a bit in my plans because I
>had that stomach bug for two days over Christmas. bah! All this wonderful
>german food my mum cooked and I couldn't eat it. Poooey!
>
>Nicole - eager to hear from others!
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
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